Port Townsend Olympic Peninsula
Your adventure awaits – from Hood Canal to the Olympics & Paciﬁc Coast
hIghESt quaLIty RatIng The Society of Thoracic Surgeons July 1, 2008 to June 30, 2009 WhEn It COmES tO hEaRt R CaRE, Harrison Medical Center Rt
holds the gold standard of clinical excellence. Our awardwinning cardiothoracic surgery program has achieved a 3-star rating, the highest category of quality by The Society of Thoracic Surgeons for overall performance. The rating puts our program in the top 10 percent of nearly 900 hospitals across the nation.
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Bremerton | Silverdale | Port Orchard | Belfair | Poulsbo Referral & Information 866-844-WELL | harrisonmedical.org/3star
2 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Port Townsendâ€™s New, Inviting Overwater Hotel
Sleep in luxury, surrounded by history
This boutique, all-suite overwater hotel offers unobstructed views of the Cascades and Olympic Mountains, Whidbey Island and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Gourmet kitchen in every suite. Dogs welcome.
Located in the heart of downtown Port Townsend
www.ClamCannery.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 3
indeX Always a beach in easy reach .................................18 Be a bird watcher ...................................................38 Calendar of events ........................................... 54-66 Catch a fish.............................................................32 Explore our county parks .......................................48 Explore the West End .............................................76 Farmers markets bring abundance ........................30 Find treasures on hidden beaches ..........................16 Forts yesterday, parks today ..................................44 Fun for kids: Play, swim, boat, explore ...................68 Fun is easy to find in the Tri-Area............................28 Get clean, patched up, find your way .....................67 Get some art ..........................................................10 Get out there on the water.....................................12 Grab a brew, a cider or some wine ..........................24 Hood Canal region a jewel......................................34 It’s a guy thing .......................................................14 Maps: Olympic Peninsula, Jeﬀerson County, Port Townsend city streets, historic home tour ........................................6, 8, 42, 43, 50 Learn a fiddle tune at Centrum ..............................20 Mountains to sea: North Olympic Peninsula...........68 Paddle a kayak .......................................................36 Port Ludlow: Unexpected surprise .........................22 Tour a museum ...................................................46
On ThE cOvEr
“PT Landmarks” is the title of the cover painting by Mena Quilici. This acrylic painting, in richly saturated colors includes iconic Port Townsend buildings in a twisted and whimsical landscape typical of Mena’s distinctive work. Retiring to Port Townsend in 2004 allowed her to pursue her creativity and painting full time. Primarily self taught, she has studied with several well known Northwest artists. She also paints fanciful cats, quirky dogs, odd people and favorite places, inspired both by the natural beauty of the Olympic Peninsula and her unique and imaginary perspectives. Mena’s paintings, prints and cards can be viewed at Gallery 9, 1012 Water St. in Port Townsend, Wash. or by appointment at her studio. She can be reached at 360-3854832 and firstname.lastname@example.org. Port Townsend & Jeﬀerson County Leader 226 Adams St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.ptleader.com 360-385-2900 email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org © April 2010 PT Leader Special Section Editor: Fred Obee Production Lead: Marian Roh
Where tides call the dance when only Native Americans walked these shorelines, the waters of Puget Sound have held court. The waters that stretch from our We’re out here on the edge of things in Jefferson County, just beyond the hubbub of shores connect us, and from them some of our most important ritual celebrations rise. urban living. Here, rising and falling tides call the dance. Sunlight sparkles on snowy The Wooden Boat Festival draws thousands peaks, and the sound of lapping waves and each year to Port Townsend, the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding in Port the squawking of gulls is ever present. Hadlock welcomes people from around That’s not to say we aren’t busy. We the world, and the Brinnon ShrimpFest are. Very! It is frequently said that in small is a celebration of that tasty Hood Canal towns people wear many hats. When delicacy. Getting out on the water is a way we have an idea, first we get to sell it, of life, whether you are trolling a line, then we also get to organize the people dropping a shrimp or crabpot, or kayakto make it happen, and then we must ing at water level past seals, porpoises, lend our own shoulder to the effort. But scoters and loons. It is part of who we are. look at what that effort has produced. We are proud of our local merchants, From Brinnon on the emerald watoo. They make our existence possible up ters of Hood Canal to Port Townsend’s here, fueling an economy mainly made Victorian Seaport, Eastern Jefferson up of local owners and entrepreneurs. Our County is alive with innovation, demerchants deal in everything imaginable, lightful people and tons of fun. from gifts and art to classic cars, candles, The local food movement is strong knitting supplies, antiques, hardware and here. We love our farms, and they proclothing. Walk in the door of a business duce a bountiful harvest each year of here, and chances are high you will be fresh organic produce that rivals anything met by a local owner behind the counter. you will find anywhere in the world. We encourage you to spend some Many local restaurants embrace this time discovering our nooks and crannies. ideal and include lots of delicious loThere are delights around every corner cal treats on their menus. We have sevworthy of a celebration all their own. eral cheesemakers, and our local fishing boats bring us fresh seafood each year. Be sure to stop at one of our farmers markets as you pass through. It’s a great way to spend a couple of hours, and the reward for your foraging will be a perfect picnic. We embrace the natural world and all its wonders: the birds that swoop from treetops, the deer that meander through neighborhoods, the pesky raccoons that make their mischief on a nocturnal schedule, the rivers that tumble from the heights of the Olympics, and the woodlands that stretch seemingly forever. This is our world, and we are happy to share it. And then there’s our connection to the sea. This is as strong as anything here. Since the earliest times By Fred Obee of the Leader
Stop, shop and stay awhile. Saunter along our beaches, Sail a boat, Savor our local cuisine, Swing in the groove, Sigh in contentment.
Photo courtesy of Inside Out Solutions
Ranked 24th in the world by National Geographic for historic places to visit
360.385.2722 • 888.ENJOY.PT
Enjoy the great outdoors ... Camping • Hunting • Fishing • Outdoor Gear
Fishing, Hunting & Crabbing license sold here!
901 Nesses Corner Rd. • Port Hadlock • 1-360-385-1771 / 1-360-344-3443 • Toll Free: 1-800-750-1771 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 5
EXPLOrE ThE PEninSULA Sequim-Dungeness Valley Chamber of Commerce 1192 E. Washington St. Sequim, WA 98382 360-683-6197, 800-737-8462
Olympic National Park Visitor Center 3002 Mount Angeles Road Port Angeles, WA 98362 360-565-3130, nps.gov/olym
Olympic Peninsula Visitor Information Center 338 W. First St., Suite 104, Port Angeles, WA 98362 360-452-8552, 800-942-4042 visitolympicpeninsula.org
Clallam Bay/Sekiu Chamber of Commerce 16795 State Route 112 Clallam Bay, WA 98326 clallambay.com, sekiu.com
Port Angeles Regional Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center 121 Railroad Ave. Port Angeles, WA 98362 portangeles.org
Neah Bay Chamber of Commerce 360-645-2711 neahbaychamberofcommerce.com Forks Chamber of Commerce 360-374-2531, forkswa.com
6 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center 31 miles south of Forks 360-374-6925
Jeﬀerson Transit offers bus and park-and-ride service in Port Townsend. 360-385-4777, jeffersontransit.com
Hoh River and Kalaloch rainforestcountry.com
island Transit serves Whidbey Island. 800-240-8747, islandtransit.org
Other travel links
Peninsula Taxi serves Port Townsend. 360-385-1872
Washington State Department of Transportation lists traﬃc and bridge conditions. 511, 800-419-9085, wsdot.wa.gov Washington State Ferries provides vehicle and passenger service. Check the schedule for options. 888-808-7977, wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
Puget Sound Express offers passenger-only service to Friday Harbor (San Juan Islands) from March through ﬁrst week of October. 360385-5288, pugetsoundexpress.com
Port of Port Townsend offers boaters moorage and fuel. 800-228-2803, portofpt.com
victoria Express offers passengeronly service between Victoria and Port Angeles from May to September. 360-452-8088, victoriaexpress.com
Jeﬀerson county international Airport is 6 miles south of Port Townsend. 360-385-2323, portofpt.com
Goodwin Aviation provides ﬂights to and from Sea-Tac International Airport. 360-531-1727, goodwinaviation.com
The Annapurna Center for Self Healing • Non-Surgical Facelift with The Perfector Massage & Reflexology • Deep Detoxification Health is Our Only Real Wealth www.TheAnnapurna.com www.KangenFlower.com
email@example.com Ciela, Sylvia, Holly, Robin, Teresa
Hot Tub, Hammock, Gardens & Views! www.holcombhideaway.com 360-379-4852
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 7
Passenger Ferry to San Juan Islands
Fort Worden State Park
Port TownsendKeystone Ferry
Fort Flagler State Park Old Fort Townsend State Park
Naval Magazine Indian Island
Anderson Lake State Park
H.J. Carroll Park
Beaver Valley Rd.
st V a l le y R d.
Ea gl e
Coyle Rd .
cene Riv er
and os Pe n i n s u l a
Visitor Center Dosewallips State Park
d. ay R ise B
8 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Quilcene/Brinnon Chamber Visitor Center Located in the U.S. Forest Service building along Highway 101. Mailing address: P.O. Box 774 Quilcene, WA 98376 360-765-4999 emeraldtowns.com quilcene.com
Center Rd .
Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitor Center Located at the junction of State Routes 104 & 19. Mailing address 93 Beaver Valley Road Port Ludlow, WA 98365 360-437-0120 Jefferson County Chamber Visitor Center Located in Haines Place Park-and-Ride, across from Safeway 440 12th St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-2722 ptchamber.org enjoypt.com
Mystery Bay State Park
Irondale Port Hadlock
Sâ€™Klallam Tribal Center
Chambers of Commerce & Visitor Centers
Shine Tidelands State Park
Brinnon Visitor Center Located in Brinnon Community Center along Highway 101. Mailing address: 306142 Highway 101 Brinnon, WA 98320 360-796-4350 emeraldtowns.com brinnon.com
SCOOTER RENTALS Cruise Port Townsend!
A distinctive collection of § § § § §
Interior furniture Garden furniture Stone & cement tiles Copper & stone sinks Tribal art & primitives and much more!
Visit our website: www.joglonorthwest.com 830 Water Street, Suite 200 • Port Townsend • 360-379-2410 Uptown Walking Tour of Downtown and
(360) 379-2910 • (877) 493-8901 1510 Sims Way, Port Townsend
Passport to the past! at the Jefferson County Historical Society
Visit our 3 museums and take a Walking Tour! 540 Water Street (360) 385-1003 www.jchsmuseum.org
rters at Fort Worden 1904 Commanding Officer’s Qua
1868 Rothschild Ho
Jefferson County Historical Society
Jefferson County Museum in the historic 1892 City Hall The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 9
Get some art! By Kathie Meyer of the Leader If you like art, you’ve come to the right place. Every first Saturday of the month in Port Townsend, art pops up all over town in the galleries and other venues for the town’s popular Gallery Walk. If you want to mix with the locals who support the arts community, walk along Water Street beginning about 5:30 or 6 p.m. and step inside any of the spots listed on the exhibits listings under the events link at ptleader.com or in the arts section of the Leader. Some of the galleries are about more than just visual art. While a new exhibit is usually hung every month at Northwind Arts Center,
2049 Jefferson, off Sims Way on the way into town, the center also hosts poetry readings and other events. But if it’s art you want, then you got it. Don’t miss the annual Art Port Townsend exhibit on view during August. In June, catch the juried show “Alchemy of the Abstract IV.” In July, the center features a group show of some of the area’s most popular two- and threedimensional artists – Rae Belkin, Linda Jarvis, Ellen Reichart and Kathleen Snow. Admission is always free, but donations are accepted to keep this nonprofit in the black. Hours are ThursdaysMondays from noon to 5 p.m. Artisans on Taylor, 236 Taylor, calls itself “the
The jewelry cases are also hard to resist. Hours: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. every day. Port Townsend has two co-op galleries – Port Townsend Gallery, 715 Water, and Gallery 9, 1012 Water – located at opposite ends of the main drag. Between the two of them, 53 highly committed local artists are represented. Both galleries are open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. More art is also found all year-round at William’s Gallery, 914 Water; the Three-dimensional assemblages by Linda Bishop Victorian Hotel, Jarvis are featured in a group show at 714 Washington; Ancestral Northwind Arts Center during July. Shown Spirits Gallery, 701 Water; here is “This Old House Has Stories.” Earthenworks Gallery, 702 Water; Elevated Ice Cream, 613 Water; Undertown Coffee hottest little gallery on the and Wine Bar, 211 Taylor, unpeninsula” for a very good der the sidewalk at Water and reason. Here, edgy, outTaylor streets; and Lehani’s sider art can be seen next to Deli & Coffee, 221 Taylor. nationally recognized clay Should you wish to explore artist Anne Hirondelle and farther out in the county, woodworker Helga Winter. the Art Mine provides a beautiful space for exhibits inside the Port Hadlock Inn at 310 Hadlock Bay Road in Port Hadlock. Call 360-385-7030 for hours. In Quilcene, be sure to stop at Olympic Art Gallery, which features nature and wildlife art on the corner of Washington Street and U.S. Highway 101 in Quilcene. Summer hours are Fridays, Saturdays and Mondays, 11 a.m.-5 p.m., and Sundays from 12:30 to 5 p.m. Weird, graceful, abstract or impressionistic – when it comes to art, Port Townsend has it all. Wood-turned bowls created by Helga Winter can be found at Artisans on Taylor, 236 Taylor St. A piece of Winter’s work is included in the Smithsonian American Art Museum’s collection.
10 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Relax and Enjoy the Bus!
Follow the signs to the Park & Ride near Safeway and enjoy comfortable buses and friendly drivers as you tour Port Townsend and Jeﬀerson County. Parking is free and secure, and with your paid bus fare you get an all-day pass to explore all the wonderful sights. Connections to Seattle, Victoria, B.C. and beyond
821 Water Street, Port Townsend
Asian Antiques Ethnographic Jewelry Collectable Textiles Nautical Items
Call for information or check our website for maps and schedules.
Go to www.jeffersontransit.com to plan your next trip!
We can make your next event a Seafood Festival • Graduation & reunion parties • Wedding dinner & reception • Business, or club event • Private parties
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 11
Get out there on the water By Patrick J. Sullivan of the Leader Boats have been around Port Townsend long before there even was a Port Townsend. Pacific Northwest coastal tribes came and went in their canoes, on what is now known as the Salish Sea, from here in Puget Sound north into Canadian waters. Today you, too, can get on the water, as a visitor or a local. Launch a sea kayak, maneuver a rowing scull, or crew the type of sail/oar longboat Capt. Vancouver put ashore here in 1791. Lend a hand on a majestically fast schooner, or go on a whale watch. The water is front and center at the new Northwest Maritime Center in down-
Port Townsend is the West Coast’s capital for wooden boats. The 34th Wooden Boat Festival is Sept. 10-12, 2010. Get your accommodation reservations early!
town Port Townsend, also home to the Wooden Boat Foundation (360-385-3628; nwmaritime.org). Maritime programs include charters, tours, classes, family boatbuilding and a popular summer program for kids called “Messing About in Boats.” Stop by and watch boats come together in the NWMC shop. Three historic schooners are part of the local fleet and available for a variety of sail training, adult and family cruises, and environmental science adventures. Look for the 65-foot gaff-rigged topmast schooner Alcyone (schooneralcyone.com) and the 68-foot schooner Martha, operated by the nonprofit Schooner Martha Foundation (schoonermartha.org). Queen of the fleet is the 85.5foot gaff-rigged Adventuress, launched in 1913 and owned by Sound Experience (soundexp. org). The Adventuress specializes in hands-on envi-
The Northwest Maritime Center dock on the downtown waterfront hosts boats of many sizes. Photos by Patrick J. Sullivan
ronmental education and sail training for people of all ages. Look for the schooners to have public day sailings and free dockside tours. Not everyone gets around with sails. The Rat Island Rowing and Sculling Club (soundrowers.org) is the center of the local universe when it comes to rowing craft. Many people keep their boats at the Northwest Maritime Center. The Rat Island Regatta is June 19, and is hoping to join with the North American Open Water Regatta Championship, coming to Port Townsend on June 20, to create an annual event. If you want an easy shoreline paddle, Port Townsend Outdoors (360-379-3608; ptoutdoors.com) is a downtown business that rents
kayaks off its beach. Before a vessel sails, it must be built, and that’s why people attend the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding in Port Hadlock (360-385-4948; nwboatschool.org). A separate entity from the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, the boat school is located on the opposite end of Port Townsend Bay from the NWMC. The school teaches the distinctive methods developed in the early 1900s by Puget Sound shipwrights and master boatbuilders. It conducts a fulltime vocational study program with students from around the world, and also offers noncredit courses and workshops. Last but not certainly not least, Port Townsend can be your base for whale watching. The Hanke family has operated on these waters since 1985 and presents a 98 percent success rate when it comes to spotting whales. Puget Sound Express (360-385-5288; pugetsoundexpress.com) is based at Point Hudson Marina with regular service to the San Juan Islands, plus special cruises.
From sea kayaks to schooners to a whalewatching boat, Port Townsend is the place to be for getting on the water. 12 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Kayak and Bike Adventures for the Entire Family! • Sea Kayak Tours • Mountain Bike Tours • River Trips
Adventures Through Kayaking
The most comprehensive Art Supply Store on the Olympic Peninsula!
360-417-3015 • 888-900-3015 www.atkayaking.com
Look at all we offer! A Place to Camp • A Family Reunion Location A Place to Get Married • Exciting Events • RV Group Destination Vehicle, RV or Boat Storage • 80 Campsites – 18 Full Hookups 40 Power/Water Campsites • 22 Dry Campsites
Year-Round Camping • Special Event Camping Full Hookups, $20 • Partial $17 • Dry Camping $15 (per night) Jeﬀerson County Fair “Magic in the Air” August 13, 14 & 15, 2010 7th Annual Holiday Fair November 6 & 7, 2010 9th Annual Community Garage Sale March 19, 2011 11th Annual JeﬀCo EXPO April 23 & 24, 2011
PORT TOWNSEND, WASHINGTON
jeﬀcofairgrounds@olypen.com • 4907 Landes Street • 360-385-1013 • www.jeﬀcofairgrounds.com
Personal expression through creative clothing.
We are Certified Art Materials Professionals. www.AkamaiArt.com
clothing, shoes & accessories for women & children
839 Water St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-4795 • www.abouttimeclothing.com
Open: Mon.-Sat. 10-6 2328 W. Sims Way, Port Townsend 360-385-3970 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 13
It’s a guy thing Things to do while women shop
want to be that guy peering hopelessly into the window on the days Bergstrom’s is closed. Guys, if frilly Victorian To get the most milehomes and shopping for trinkets age, coordinate your visit don’t interest you, don’t sit on with the Rakers 2010 Car a sidewalk bench or in a bar Show at Memorial Field on waiting for your wives. Port Washington Street on Saturday, Townsend is filled with many June 26, or the Kiwanis testosterone-laden adventures Car Show at the same locadesigned for boys of all ages. tion on Saturday, Aug. 21. A cruise through At the east end of Water Bergstrom’s Antique Street is the brand new and Classic Autos at 809 Northwest Maritime Center. Washington is a must. You’ll Aside from the spectacular find some real beauties here view of Port Townsend Bay and lots of little details to from its balcony, check out the finish off your own restoraboat shop and watch expert tion project. Plan your visit to wooden boatbuilders at work. Port Townsend from Thursday Sailing classes for all levels of through Monday. You don’t experience also are offered. The liveliest time to visit is during Bergstrom’s Antique and Classic Autos the Wooden Boat Festival on always has a wide variety of old cars, Friday through Sunday, Sept parts and memorabilia. Next to this 10-12. This festival is Port Phillips 66 gas pump is a 1963 Morgan. By Kathie Meyer of the Leader
Photo by Kathie Meyer
14 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
The nonprofit Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum hosts tours and other special events on Fort Worden State Park’s Artillery Hill. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan
Townsend’s biggest visitor draw, so plan well in advance. On the opposite end of town, at the Safeway intersection at Sims Way and Haines Place, is the entrance to our working waterfront called the Boat Haven. Even if you don’t own a boat, it’s fun to wander around and check out what’s in the slips or watch a shipwright at work on anything from an antique ferry to a multi-million-dollar yacht and everything in between. Head out to Fort Worden State Park and visit the Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum in Building 201. Here you’ll
find a three-dimensional scale model of Fort Worden’s Battery Kinzie, showing the design and structure of the massive fortifications and the emplacements for the two 12-inch disappearing guns that were kept in readiness for possible attack from 1910 to 1943, when Fort Worden defended our country from invaders. This museum is also loaded with historic military uniforms, tons of guns and many maps, with special emphasis on the harbor defenses of Puget Sound as they existed and functioned from the late 1800s to the end of World War II. In the summer, museum volunteers give tours of the actual batteries on the hill on Saturdays or by appointment. Before leaving the fort, poke your head inside the Port Townsend School of Woodworking at 200 Battery Way. Several nationally recognized woodworkers hold classes here on all subjects, including how to build a Gypsy wagon, using hand tools and crafting furniture. See ptwoodschool.com for a course schedule, but even if you’re not a tuition-paying student, the nice guys in charge will be happy to show you around. Doesn’t that sound better than carrying shopping bags around all day?
Port Townsend’s Only Brewpub
Craft Brews Fresh-squeezed Cocktails Live Music • Upscale Pub Food Outdoor Seating • Kid Friendly Late Night Menu 639 Water Street, Port Townsend 360.379.6438 www.waterstreetbrewing.com
Our Promise is Quality of Life Choice & Independence
Full Service Insurance & Investments 401K Rollovers Life • Mutual Funds Retirement & College Savings Plans Auto • Home • Annuities 1304 West Sims Way, Port Townsend 360-385-1019 19470 Viking Ave. Ste 202B, Poulsbo 360-697-6500 firstname.lastname@example.org
Active Retirement and Assisted Living Community
An active, fun, peaceful life is a . . . satisified life. We offer a 60-day, 100% satisfaction guarantee program. At Seaport Landing we have it all!
Large selection of Unique, Handmade Gifts Quaint Antiques & Collectibles
1201 Hancock St., Port Townsend WA 98368 360.379.9376 email@example.com
Serving client needs since 1980.
FIVE FINGERS 911 Water St., Port Townsend
May 16, 2010
Jefferson County’s Premier
Rehab and Care Center
We are committed to building better care in an environment custom-built to meet your needs. Offering Outpatient Rehab Services Physical Therapy Occupational Therapy Speech Therapy and Long Term Care
Come join us for the 32nd Annual Rhody Run
RHODY RUN XXV ENTRY FORM 1 SEX Check one:
Adhere PAID sticker purchased from cashier here.
751 Kearney St., Port Townsend, WA 98368
2 SHIRT Check one: 4
Your AGE TODAY:
360.385.3555 www.LCCA.com • Joint Commission accredited
PLEASE PRINT CLEARLY YS (6-8) S
Your DATE of BIRTH:
6 MAILING ADDRESS 7 CITY 8 STATE
10 PHONE NUMBER
PLEASE READ THIS:
12 SIGNATURE 13 Parent's SIGNATURE if under 18 years old
Fill out this form in full, and sign it. Entry fee ($25 U.S.) may be paid to the cashier in exchange for a PAID sticker. Present this form, with PAID sticker adhered, to a Late Registration official for your race packet.
Details, Entry Form
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 15
Collecting beach glass is like collecting art, only it’s free, since the glass is found on beaches and costs nothing to pick up. Photos by Allison Arthur
Find treasures on hidden beaches By Allison Arthur of the Leader “What’s beach glass?” asked a very intelligent fellow who swore he walks beaches every day. “It’s glass you find on the beach,” I answered, dumbfounded. He seemed like such an observant guy, and I was just starting to like him. A conversation ensued. And a day or two later, he produced a number of elegant pieces, including the spout of a brown teapot, weathered
by the sea, a nice chunk of a heavy dinner plate with a hint of lettering, and a piece of broken green glass with a smooth round edge. “What do you think this is?” I found myself asking him of his green-glass discovery, his mastery of the subject increasing quickly. “I think it’s the bottom of those green glass insulators on power poles. I used to walk up and down the power line and shoot them,” he said matter-of-factly, adding that
16 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
one of the first things he learned from a gun-safety course was not to shoot them. Hunting for beach glass can be a sport, a challenge. For me, it’s a treasure hunt. A beach that appears covered with ordinary sand and nondescript gray rock comes alive with intrigue when you start to see the tiniest specks of green and cobalt blue, and when you can distinguish between white clamshell and white china, you then wonder: “Where did this come from? What was it to begin with?” So where do you find beach glass on the Olympic Peninsula? Same answer as before: On beaches. And they are everywhere. But there are a few special places to look, and if you are a diehard beach-glass hunter you will want to know about and check out for yourself a place called Glass Beach in Port Townsend. It’s a short walk west off the North Beach County Park during a low tide. Walk about a mile and you might stumble across glass and china bits that were dumped there years ago when people
actually drove to the end of a county road and deposited their garbage in the sea. A friend who has been to that beach swears there’s nothing really to find. But some people also swear they have found unusual colors of glass, including the elusive red and even purple. A good time to look for beach glass is after a storm or a high tide. Shards can be pulled out of their hiding places by a rough wave. On the beach behind Boat Haven in Port Townsend – where the Larry Scott Trail starts – the best beach-glasspicking technique is to go to the top of the waterline and start poking through the driftwood. A few nice bits of blue have come from there. The best beaches, of course, are the beaches where few people tread. The friend who found the teapot spout – I had to buy coffee for him for a week after this, I swear – says he found that delicious specimen on a walk between North Beach and the Point Wilson Lighthouse at Fort Worden State Park. Interestingly, that would be in the opposite direction of Glass Beach. But then that’s the way the tides would be pushing the old garbage, which become treasures for beachcombers like me – and you, now that you know what, when, where and how to find it. Why look? Because you can. Because it’s free, and because finding gems from the past are like finding a mystery and a treasure. Some people enjoy displaying their finds in old china cups like this. Other people sprinkle beach glass in their gardens or on pathways.
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Espe Handbags, Paris Found Jackets, Orna Lalo Jewelry, Fred and Friends, Chronicle Books, Tokyobay Watches, and much more... Come and see!
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Summer House Design
930 Water Street, Port Townsend 344-4192 • summerhousedesignpt.com
candles & accessories incense & perfumes soaps & bath goods
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921 Washington St. • 360-344-4144 • Open 7 Days
Give the Sweet Gift of a Cupcake
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Specialty Teas, Asian Teaware, Tonic Elixirs, Organic Herbs, Tinctures, Flower Essences...
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Located on Washington, Taylor & Tyler Streets • Downtown Port Townsend
Transforming the World One Sip at a Time
All-occasion cupcakes 922 Washington Street
Rentals • Tuneups Accessories • Sales www.ptcyclery.com 360-385-6470
252 Tyler Street, behind the Rose Theatre
& THEATRE Port Townsend’s Back Alley Gem
• Renowned Entertainment Nightly • Northwest & Mediterranean Cuisine • Microbrews, Wines & Spirits
923 Washington St. (or Tyler St. off Water Street) • 360-385-2216
www.upstagerestaurant.com 923 Washington St. • 360-385-2216
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 17
A beach walker caught this sunset at North Beach in Port Townsend along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan
Port Townsend’s Chetzemoka Park is located between Fort Worden and Point Hudson. It’s mostly a beach people walk through because it’s rather skinny, but when the tide is out, the mudflats are a great place to squish goo between your toes.
Always a beach in easy reach Patrick J. Sullivan of the Leader The beach is well within reach, any time of the year, in Port Townsend, Jefferson County and on the Olympic Peninsula. Here’s a review of our best beaches, but first, a public service message: • Long walks on the beach can leave you on the rocks – check a tide table. • Do not disturb a seal pup found onshore – the mother intentionally leaves it at the high tide mark and will return.
On the map All the beaches mentioned in this story can be located on the maps featured in this publication.
• Please respect private property and keep in mind that not every beach is open to public shellfishing. • Tsunami sirens near several Port Townsend beaches are tested monthly. If worse comes to worst and the voice and siren warning is no drill, get off the shoreline and head to high ground. • The water temperature around here is 52-56 degrees even in the summer, so there should be no confusion that you might be in Maui or Mexico. Best Overall Beach Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend. It’s great for walks, sandcastles, sunbathing and simply playing in the water – south of the pier. Dogs must be kept on a leash. There is a boat ramp, underwater dive park and moorage buoys,
18 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
and it’s a favorite of kayakers and windsurfers. But stay away from Point Wilson’s wild currents unless you are an open-water expert. Best Beach Walk Start at North Beach County Park, on the western edge of Fort Worden, and walk west toward McCurdy Point. Dress for wind, and enjoy a long walk. It’s OK for dogs to be off leash. Boatwatch Beach The beach and jetty at Point Hudson downtown are great places to watch boats of all sizes come and go. There is a level walking trail and benches, so it’s great for folks who aren’t so mobile.
Less Traveled Beach Alas, there are no local secrets when it comes to public beaches. My family’s favorite beach for avoiding crowds is East Beach on Marrowstone Island. There is a great picnic shelter, beach logs to lay against, and a fine view of the shipping channel. Double Beach Beach You can get two beaches for the price of one at Fort Flagler State Park on Marrowstone Island. There’s the long beach on Port Townsend Bay and into Admiralty Inlet, plus the more sheltered beach on calm Kilisut Harbor. Best Hood Canal Beach The saltwater in Hood Canal is warmer than around Port Townsend, but there are not a lot of easily accessible, sandy public beaches. The best beach for swimming or sunbathing is on Quilcene Bay next to the Herb Beck Marina.
West End Beaches Jefferson County extends to the Pacific Ocean, where our West End beaches are big and beautiful. Ruby Beach, Third Beach and the “main” Favorite Skinny Beach beach at Kalaloch Beach are This is a skinny beach, not a fantastic. Surfers frequent skinnydipper beach. The City of First Beach near La Push.
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 19
Public performances at Fiddle Tunes, and other Centrum events each summer, give concertgoers a chance to sample regional musical styles and traditions.
Learn a fiddle tune at Centrum By Fred Obee of the Leader
Each July 4 week for the past several years, I have found myself at Centrum’s Fiddle Tunes, one of the
Get creative Centrum is a gathering place dedicated to preserving and revitalizing cultural traditions, taking creative risks and generating new practices, ideas and conversations. Based at Fort Worden State Park, Centrum serves people of all ages, abilities and cultural backgrounds seeking personal growth and transformation through integrated creative, learning and retreat experiences. For year-round workshop and performance information, visit centrum.org or call 800733-3608 or 360-385-3102, ext. 110.
major programs offered each summer at Fort Worden by Port Townsend’s premier arts organization. There also are programs for jazz, blues, writing and chamber music, which all get rave reviews, but from my observation, Fiddle Tunes draws the biggest and most diverse crowd of participants. Plus, it’s always around the July 4 weekend, which adds some holiday zest. If you think all fiddle music sounds the same, you haven’t listened closely. West Virginia has that haunting, “downin-the-holler” sound. Listen to fiddlers from Missouri, and you feel the pulse of Mississippi River commerce, of busy towns and humid days. Fiddlers from the cooler climes of New England play in a jauntier style that is familiar
20 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
to contra dance devotees. A little farther north, the French of Quebec bring their own wild style, reflecting traditional French country tunes from a New World perspective. Down south in Louisiana, a different French tradition of waltzes and infectious two-step dances, anchored by an ever-present accordion, evolved in Cajun country. The public is welcome to get a taste of these regional styles at public concerts, but if you have ever wanted to play along with traditional acoustic music of any kind, the chances of finding a niche at Fiddle Tunes are high, whether you are a beginner or whether you have been at it for many years. The principal instruments for the week are fiddle, guitar, banjo, mandolin, various
accordions and concertinas and basses. But every year, players of other instruments join the mix. Cellos, clarinets, spoons, washboards, kazoos, ukuleles, drums – the list is pretty much unending. If you show up wanting to make a joyous noise, you will find a welcoming place. There is a schedule to give the event a form: workshops with the faculty in the morning, and band labs in the afternoon. Faculty members give private concerts for participants in the evening, and dances and jams go on until the wee hours. But the thing I find most exciting about Fiddle Tunes is the way participants shape their own experience. If you have recently become enamored with Brazilian music, for example, the chances are pretty good you can find a dozen others who also have embarked on that path. While there is always a strong contingent playing the old-time music repertoire, in past years dozens of students have clotted up in little groups playing tangos, or Mexican tunes, or western swing, or klezmer or even Django-style hot jazz from the ’30s. Unlike most of the other offerings at Centrum, Fiddle Tunes is also a family affair. There are lots of activities for players of all ages and skill levels, from toddler beginners on up. It’s pretty much family fun from start to finish. So get busy on the pennywhistle or string up your old guitar, and learn a fiddle tune. There’s no telling where that might lead.
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revolutionized home boat building in 1986. Twenty four years later we continue to lead
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“A TREASURE TO BE DISCOVERED” The Discovery Bay Golf Course (formerly Chevy Chase) is the oldest public golf course in the state of Washington with rich history and simple rural charm.
the way in beauty, innovation, ease of construction and seaworthiness of ultra-light, rugged, high-performance wooden boats. Stop by for a test
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Please call for rates & specials.: (360) 385-0704 7401 Cape George Road • Port Townsend
www.discoverybaygolfcourse.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 21
Port Ludlow: Unexpected surprise
The weekly farmers market in Port Ludlow attracts vendors and buyers.
Friday Market The Port Ludlow Friday Market operates from April through September on resort property. It attracts a variety of local and regional vendors with fresh produce, fruit, flowers and arts and crafts. Lawrence and Valerie Brown sell homemade candles. “The whole community volunteers for different things, and this is my way to help,” she says. For more information, call the Port Ludlow Chamber of Commerce at 360-437-9798.
Active retirement Full of vibrant, active residents and guests, Port Ludlow has been named “best residential community for active adults in the United States.”
The views surrounding Port Ludlow Bay are nothing short of amazing. Boating is popular with residents, and a large, fullservice marina provides services.
22 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Port Ludlow is an unexpected surprise in rural Jefferson County. A former lumber mill town, today it is a bustling “resort community” with a full-service marina, a world-class restaurant and a great golf course. Port Ludlow is an active person’s paradise. Neighborhoods bring residents and newcomers together through a variety of recreational and social activities. Tree-crowned islands and picturesque views of the Olympic Mountains frame Port Ludlow’s 300-slip marina, which can accommodate vessels up to 200 feet. Visitors can appreciate the area’s natural beauty by enjoying the resort’s 18-hole championship golf course, recognized as one of the most beautiful in the world. Port Ludlow is home to more than 100 businesses, many located in the Village Center at the corner of Oak Bay and Paradise Bay roads. Named for Augustus C. Ludlow, a naval officer in the War of 1812, Port Ludlow was founded in 1842 by explorer Charles Wilkes. The town’s beginnings were drawn from one of its most striking features: dense forest. The first lumber mill was built in 1852 and was acquired 27 years later by Andrew Jackson Pope and William C. Talbot. It was a mill town until 1935. In 1968, the Pope & Talbot development business launched the
first planned resort community in Jefferson County. Residents and visitors have plenty to do. Check at the Port Ludlow Marina office for watercraft, kayak and bicycle rentals. Boat charters are available for sightseeing, touring, sailing and nature cruises. The golf course also has a golf school and lessons, with four different practice areas. Call 800-455-0272 or 360-437-0272, or visit portludlowresort.com. Teal Lake Park is located in the woods south of town and is a great place for fly-fishing. Port Ludlow Fly Fishing Club has made improvements to the site, and the park’s fishing dock and picnic area are wheelchair-accessible. With easy parking, Hood Head/Shine Tidelands at the Hood Canal Bridge’s west end is a great place for a beach stroll. When tides permit, you can walk along a sand spit to Hood Head. Although it looks like an island, Hood Head is connected to the peninsula by the sand bridge. Light-duty hiking is great on the Timberton Trail Loop located off of Paradise Bay Road on Timberton Drive. The 5-mile loop trail offers views of the Cascade Mountains from Mount Baker to Mount Rainier. Numbered rocks along the trail help orient hikers. Parking for the short Ludlow Falls Interpretive Trail is available at Port Ludlow Village Center.
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Far Reaches Farm
Rare Plants & Display Gardens - It’s worth the drive! Call or see our website for open days:
360-385-5114 • 1818 Hastings Ave. • Port Townsend Also open by appointment
Fresh Coffee Tea Organic Vitamins Organic Raw Sandwiches Toothpaste Herbal Shampoo Local Produce BeerWineComfort Food Cheeses Deli Soup Local Bread Snacks Picnics Coffee Bulk OrganicVitamins Sandwiches Toothpaste Chips Shampoo LocalProduce Beer WineComfort Beer the local Food CheesesDeli Soup Local Bread Snacks organic grocery Wine PicnicsOrganic Natural Coffee Tea Organic store Since 1972 Vitamins Tea Sandwiches Toothpaste Herbalmember owned Shampoo Local Produce Beer Wine Comfort FoodEverybody Cheeses Deli Soup Local Bread Welcome Open Everyday The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 23
Grab a brew, a cider or some wine Valley. Christina James Winery, in Port Townsend, offers group tastings by Port Townsend visitors wishing to wet their whistles special appointment only. For visitors with a taste have a number of fine, for hard cider, a sense of locally crafted options availadventure and a bit more able – from beer, to wine, time, three family-owned to hard cider – with some cideries lie just beyond proprietors right downtown, the city limits, creating an others just a short drive or opportunity for an easy pleasant bicycle ride away. For beer connoisseurs, Port Townsend boasts two local breweries. Water Street Brewing By James Robinson of the Leader
Local brews abound in port Townsend & Ale House, in the historic N.D. Hill Building, is located right in the heart of the historic downtown, while Port Townsend Brewing Company can be found in the funky Boat Haven shipyard. For wine enthusiasts, the Port Townsend area offers three wineries with tasting rooms: FairWinds Winery, west of downtown; Sorensen Cellars, just south of the city limits off State Route (SR) 20; and Eaglemount Wine & Cider in the Chimacum Three area cideries, including Finnriver Farm, offer visitors tasting opportunities and a chance to explore the agricultural heartland of the Quimper Peninsula. 24 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
auto loop tour or bicycle ride through Chimacum Valley – Jefferson County’s agricultural heartland. The cider loop Distance: 38 miles, beginning and ending in downtown Port Townsend. Travel time: About an hour by car, but factor in additional time for tasting at the cideries. By bicycle, plan at least a half-day. Special features: Verdant farmlands of Chimacum Valley, views from high sandstone bluffs tower-
ing above Discovery Bay, twisty rural routes and opportunities to meet the locals at Finnriver Farm, Eaglemount Wine & Cider and Wildfire Cider.
Port Townsend to Finnriver Farm – 14 miles
To begin the cider tour loop, travel south from Port Townsend on East Sims Way, also known as SR 20. At the junction of SR 20 and SR 19, stay left – the road becomes SR 19. Follow SR 19 for 5 miles, to the ● ● ● Continued on page 26
● ● ● Continued on page 26
Tour & Taste
PORT TOWNSEND WINE & CIDER
A Taste of Port Townsend to Go!
Memorial Day thru Labor Day • Daily 12 - 5 Sept - June • Fri - Mon • 12 - 5 1984 Hastings Avenue West • Port Townsend • 360.385.6899 www.fairwindswinery.com
March thru November: Friday - Sunday 12-5 June July August 7 days a Week 12-5 360.379.6416 • 274 Otto Street, Building S Port Townsend • www.sorensencellars.com
Washington’s first organic hard cider &
Orleans style barrel aged apple cider vinegar
ARTISAN HARD CIDERS • FRUIT WINES • LIQUEURS Tasting Room Open May - Oct • Thurs - Mon • 1 - 5 Nov - April • Fri - Sun • 2 - 5 Directions & information at
www.ﬁnnriver.com • 360.732.6822
winery & cidery
Tasting Room Thurs thru Sun 12 - 6 or by appointment 2350 Eaglemount (near Hwy 101 & Hwy 20) Port Townsend 360.732.4084 www.eaglemountwinery.com
Please call ahead to visit our cidery and orchard of European & heritage traditional cider apples 1.360.379.8915 www.wildfirecider.com
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 25
Brews, ciders, wine
Flagle r Rd .
Oak Ba d. yR
ge R d .
V a l le y R
Ea gl e
Eaglemount Wine & Cider
D ody Rh
Beaver Valley Rd.
Egg & I Rd.
★Finn River Farm
d. ay R ise B
Old Tarboo Rd. o o Rd . Old Tarb
Dabob R d.
26 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
d. Irondale Port Hadlock
From Wildfire Cider, return to Cape George Road and turn left. Follow Cape George Road
Wildﬁre cider and back to downtown Port Townsend – 9 miles
Naval Magazine Indian Island
Eaglemount Wine & cider to Wildﬁre cider – 10 miles
From Eaglemount Wine & Cider, return to Eaglemount Road and turn left, traveling northwest on Eaglemount Road for about 2 miles to the intersection of Eaglemount Road and SR 20. Turn right on SR 20, following the road for 4.5 miles as it hugs the bluffs above Discovery Bay, until it intersects Discovery Road. Turn left on Discovery Road and follow it for about 1 mile until it intersects with Cape George Road. Follow Cape George Road 2.7 miles, then turn left at Pocket Lane. Wildfire Cider will be on the right. Wildfire Cider offers two ciders, with four certified organic ciders and a barrelaged vinegar poised to enter its product line. Call ahead for tasting room hours.
Discov e r y Rd
From Finnriver Farm, return to Center Road and turn right. Follow Center Road about 1.5 miles, then veer right onto Eaglemount Road. Follow Eaglemount Road for 3.5 miles. Eaglemount Wine & Cider will be on the left. Eaglemount produces four varieties of cider – Homestead, Cyser, Ginger and Perry. Its Homestead Cider is made from heirloom variety apples grown in Finnriver’s homestead orchard, other old orchards, and from its
Finnriver Farm to Eaglemount Wine & cider – 5 miles
four-way stop in Chimacum. At the stop, turn right onto Center Road and follow it 3.5 miles to Finnriver Farm. Finnriver Farm offers sparkling hard ciders, dessert wines and liqueurs. In 2010, it will offer two varieties of sparkling hard cider – Artisan Sparkling Cider and Farmstead Sparkling Cider – both pressed and handcrafted on the farm from wild homestead and organic Washington apples. The Artisan Sparkling Cider is crafted using the “méthode Champagnoise,” creating a bright, naturally carbonated, champagnestyle cider. The Farmstead Cider is created with the “méthode Ancestrale,” developed by French monks hundreds of years ago. The result is a hearty dry cider with crisp apple flavors and rustic complexity. (See sidebar for tasting room hours.)
new cider apple orchard. Homestead is available in dry, semi-sweet and sweet. Cyser Cider is a hard cider fermented and sweetened with honey. The Ginger Cider is made from the same hard cider as Homestead Cider but with organic ginger flavor. Perry Cider is a semisweet, slightly carbonated cider crafted from organically grown pears. (See sidebar for tasting room hours.)
● ● ● Continued from page 24
Coyle Rd .
The wine & cider loop Tour 4.8 miles to Discovery Road. Follow Discovery Road for .4 miles then turn right onto S. Jacob Miller Road. From S. Jacob Miller Road, take the next left onto SR 20 and Brinnon it back to downtown. follow
cideries Eaglemount Wine & ciderCoyle Tasting room hours: April and May – noon to 6 p.m., Friday through Sunday, plus Memorial Day. June through August – Thursday through Sunday, noon to 6 p.m. 2350 Eaglemount Road Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-732-4084 eaglemountwinery.com
Dosewallips State Park
Finnriver Farm & cidery
Shine Tidelands State Park
Tasting room hours: Between May and October, the tasting room is open Thursday through Monday, from 1 to 5 p.m. From November to April, the tasting room is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 5 p.m. 62 Barn Swallow Road Chimacum, WA 98325 360-732-6822 finnriver.com Wildﬁre cider Tasting room hours: Call for times. 220 Pocket Lane Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-379-8915 wildfirecider.com
breweries Port Townsend Brewing company Port Townsend Brewing Company offers 10
beers on tap, beer to go in half-gallon jugs and 22-ounce bottles, a beer garden and a limited food menu. It is located in the Boat Haven boatyard, across from Safeway, south of Port Townsend’s historic downtown. Many local restaurants offer Port Townsend Brewing Company beers on tap. Hours: Monday through Thursday, noon to 7 p.m.; Friday, 2 to 9 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, noon to 7 p.m. 330 10th St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-9967 porttownsendbrewing.com
christina James Winery Christina James Winery produces Pinot Noir from fruit sourced in Oregon’s Willamette Valley; Sangiovese from Washington state’s Columbia Valley appellation; and a Cabernet Sauvignon from the White Bluff s area of the Columbia Valley appellation. Christina James wines are offered at a number of local restaurants and retailers. Tasting room hours: Call or email to Water street Brewing & Ale House schedule a group tasting. Housed in the historic N.D. Hill Port Townsend, WA 98368 Building and the former home of the 360-531-0127 Town Tavern, Water Street Brewing firstname.lastname@example.org & Ale House, at Water and Quincy FairWinds Winery streets, is a downtown institution FairWinds Winery produces Aligoté, offering handcrafted ales, seasonal Lemberger, Gewürtztraminer, brews, upscale pub food, live Cabernet Sauvignon, a Cabernetmusic, pool tables and a happy hour Merlot blend, blush, port and mead. between 3 and 6 p.m. Two retired Coast Guard couples Hours: Seasonal, call ahead. started the winery in 1993 and 639 Water St. opened the tasting room in 1996. Port Townsend, WA 98368 Their aim is to produce wines made 360-379-6438
from the lesser-known Washington state varietals along with more mainstream selections. Tasting room hours: Open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day, noon to 5 p.m. 1984 Hastings Ave. W. Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-6899 fairwindswinery.com Eaglemount Wine & cider Eaglemount offers five reds: Eaglemount Red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah; a Merlot; Raptor, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc; Osprey, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc; and a Shiraz. In addition, it offers a Riesling and a Rosé. Tasting room hours: April and May – noon to 6 p.m., Friday through Sunday, plus Memorial Day. June through August – Thursday through Sunday, noon to 6 p.m. 2350 Eaglemount Road Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-732-4084 eaglemountwinery.com sorensen cellars Established in 1998, Sorensen Cellars is a small family winery producing about 1,500 cases of wine per year. In addition to two whites – a Pinot Gris and Viognier – Sorensen Cellars makes a Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Syrah, Malbec and Merlot, all with fruit sourced from vineyards in Eastern Washington. Tasting room hours: March through May – Friday, Saturday and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.; June through August – daily, noon to 5 p.m.; September through November – Friday, Saturday and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. Closed December and January. 274 Otto St., Bldg. S Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-379-6416 sorensencellars.com
Beer aficionados will find many kindred spirits in Port Townsend. The town is home to two craft breweries and the annual Strange Brewfest held in the historic downtown. Photo by Kathie Meyer
2 Dogs, Chips & Soda
$5.00 Ivar’s Clam Chowder Fine Espresso Power Blendz Juice Bar Port Townsend City Limits at Sims Way & Mill Road
Café Darté Espresso featuring Power Blendz Juice Bar Fine Coffee & Treats
Open 6 am M-F, 7 am Sat-Sun Downtown Water Street in front of Swain’s Ferry Plaza
Town & Country
View all listings, all offices.
www.porttownsend realestate.net Carol 360 531-1301
Anne 360 531-0625
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 27
Fun is easy to find in the Tri-Area
more to do
Lawnmower races are a big part of Hadlock Days each year.
Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding 42 N. Water St., Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-385-4948, email@example.com nwboatschool.org Ajax Café 21 N. Water St., Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-385-3450, firstname.lastname@example.org Inn at Port Hadlock and marina 310 Hadlock Bay Rd., Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-385-7030, 800-785-7030 Jefferson County Library 620 Cedar Ave., Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-385-6544 jcl.lib.wa.us
Almost any getaway to Jefferson County brings you through the crossroads known as the Tri-Area: Port Hadlock, Irondale and Chimacum. Business, farming and manufacturing mix well with residential development. The Tri-Area is popular with visitors who seek an outdoor experience of camping, hiking and shellfish gathering. Boasting a state park in addition to county parks, the area offers scenic picnic spots, ballfields and other recreational opportunities. And in the past few years, a burgeoning arts community is drawing visitors to new galleries and studios. Chimacum is named for the Chimakum Tribe. Irondale was the site of an
ore- and steel-processing mill from the 1880s to 1912. Port Hadlock was named after New Hampshire-born Samuel Hadlock, who founded the town in the mid-1800s when he purchased 400 acres with a partner. Hadlock established a lumber mill town on the southwestern shore of Port Townsend Bay in 1867. Today, the former mill dock in the part of town known as Lower Hadlock is the site of the waterfront campus of the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding. The school provides a place for aspiring shipwrights to gain all the training required to transform a stack of lumber into a handcrafted sailing vessel. The school is open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays, and visitors can observe work in progress. Hadlock Days, celebrating “Wooden Ships and Iron Men,” is the community’s traditional celebration in mid-July. It features a parade, car show, vendor booths – and lawnmower races. These aren’t your grandpa’s riding mowers but are speed machines with special tires. Their drivers wear helmets. “Lawnmower races have drawn many people to Port Hadlock and made them aware that we exist and we are fun to be around,” said a Hadlock Days volunteer. “Family, friends and neighbors building a community – that’s what we want Hadlock Days to be about.” A wooden boat comes together at the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding in Lower Hadlock.
28 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
selection E CH Call TERtoS8”check Chef’s Knife Shown GOOD LIF ARClassic Captain Jerry Spencer Port Hadlock, WA
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Rhody Drive, Port Hadlock 360-385-5115 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 29
Farmers markets bring abundance By Allison Arthur of the Leader Hike, bike, kayak, run or drive through the Olympic Peninsula, but first, stop, sit and savor the flavors of the peninsula for just a moment. Four hours would be better: There are farmers markets on Friday in Port Ludlow, Saturday in Port Townsend and Sunday in Chimacum. All last just four hours. The Port Townsend market is the biggest of the three, and it’s considered a culinary destination. It’s a patch of blue sky for a hungry voyager weary of take-out food that has been sitting under a lamp for who knows how long. Between 9:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. every Saturday starting on the first weekend in May and ending in mid-December,
Three days, three markets Port Townsend Farmers Market is the biggest market in Jefferson County and runs from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. on Saturdays from May 1 to Dec. 18. Visit ptfmhome.blogspot. com. Chimacum Farmers’ Market is expected to run Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. from May through October in Chimacum. Visit chimacumgrange.com. Port Ludlow Friday Market is staged from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the Village Center at the intersection of Oak Bay Road and Paradise Bay Road. It opens on Mother’s Day weekend and continues through the last Friday in September. Visit portludlowtoday.com.
a block of Tyler Street east of Lawrence in Uptown becomes a fresh-food court. That’s fresh, as in: Not long ago, it was outside either swimming or residing in dirt, or in the oven. Watch your salmon sandwich being made exactly as you ordered it, with or without an egg. While the salmon is sizzling on the grill, take a moment to step over to Pastry Design by Anca and consider dessert options. How about a giant chocolate cookie she made last night? While you are mulling over dessert, listen to live music from the band playing yonder, and make a mental note to score a cheese stick or two from Pane d’Amore. Feel good about eating that salmon from Cape Cleare Fishery: Heidi brings the fish by bicycle to market, and fisherman Rick Oltman catches the fish the old-fashioned way – by line. The point of their endeavor is to have as little impact on the environment as possible. Speaking of impact, did you bring a bag for your vegetable catch? Not to worry. The market booth sells great canvas bags. Market Manager Will O’Donnell likes to say people can come and “meet the maker,” referring to the farmers and food vendors. And there are dozens of them. The 2010 market will feature more than 70 vendors, including four local cheesemakers, three cidery vendors, a chocolate maker, coffee roaster and, not to be
30 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
left out, Charlie Bodany’s Some Like It Hot paprika. “The market just fits the personality of the community so well,” said O’Donnell. “People have moved to Port Townsend for a quality of life, and the market represents that in many ways.” Vendors swap stories about weather, honey, politics, children and tomatoes, and often call upon each other to man (or woman) booths so that they, too, can shop in their own backyard. “It kind of reflects the town’s laid-back but somewhat sophisticated personality,” O’Donnell said of the market. If your four-legged best friend comes, walk the pooch around the block to get the you-know-what out first. (And do clean up after your friend.) After that, your pal is welcome at the market. Look for organic dog biscuits made fresh weekly at the Gatheringplace. Now that you’ve been down the block and back, and
Fresh lettuce and other vegetables as well as flowers can be purchased directly from vendors.
you’re out of money, go back to the market booth, where an ATM offers wooden tokens worth $20 with “In Flora We Trust” engraved on them. The tokens can be cashed in for produce and crafts. Vendors give change in cash. So if you want to buy a bottle of local cider and some cheese for a picnic but don’t have cash, token up. If you happen to visit midweek, the Wednesday market runs from 3 to 6 p.m. from June 2 through Sept. 29 on Polk Street, one street up from Tyler. Like its big sister on Saturdays, the Wednesday market has vendors with fresh flowers and produce but a more limited list of craft vendors. Check out ptfmhome. blogspot.com for more info. And don’t go home either empty-handed or on an empty stomach.
1 PACIFIC TRADITIONS
DAILY 10-6 • 637 WATER ST. 360-385-4770
Local & nationally recognized native artists of distinction. www.PacificTraditions.com
2 ANCESTRAL SPIRITS GALLERY
DAILY • 701 WATER ST. 360-385-0078 “An exquisite art gallery” – National Geographic Traveler www.ancestralspirits.com
TOWNSEND 3 PORT 4 EARTHENWORKS GALLERY
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Fine art and jewelry from the hearts, hands and studios of local artists.
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ON 7 ARTISANS TAYLOR
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DAILY 10-6 • 236 TAYLOR ST. 360-379-1029
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Exhibitions of contemporary art around a core of fine jewelry.
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9 WYNWOODS GALLERY &
10 GALLERY 9
DAILY 10-7 940 WATER ST. 360-385-6131 Fine contemporary handcrafted jewelry, beads & treasures. www.wynwoods.com
Olympic Peninsula cooperative of artists and craftspersons.
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ABRAXAS 11 NORTHWIND ARTS CENTER 12 CROW TH-M 12-5 • 2409 JEFFERSON ST. 360-379-1086
Juried and invitational shows.
BY APPOINTMENT ONLY 800 WEST PARK AVE. #5 360-531-1523 Steel sculptures of iconic Northwest animals. www.abraxascrow.com
13 THE ART MINE
DAILY INN AT PORT HADLOCK, 310 HADLOCK BAY RD. 360-379-8555 3-story contemporary art gallery. www.theartmine.com
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 31
From the wild West End to the protected waters of Puget Sound, Jefferson County offers something for every angler – backcountry fly-fishing, surf casting, deep-sea angling and shellfishing.
Catch a fish! By James Robinson of the Leader
Craggy peaks, lush rain forests, powerful glacierfed rivers and the saltwater environments of Puget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Pacific Ocean form the backdrop for anglers visiting the Olympic Peninsula. Surf fishing? We’ve got it. Deep-sea trolling? No problem. Backcountry casting to small brookies on a bamboo fly rod? You bet. With such a wide variety of habitat, the Olympic Peninsula is likely to offer a sport fish to match any angler’s piscatorial passion. However, while the peninsula is home to astonishing piscine complexity, that complexity is matched by a byzantine regulatory system that can make a casual, spur-of-themoment fishing trip daunting even for the most ardent of anglers. Add in the jumble
of jurisdictions – tribal land, Olympic National Park, state and federal forestlands and wilderness areas – and angling success will be determined by those in possession of time and knowledge, not the latest and greatest tackle. In short, planning is key. That said, the wellequipped, do-it-yourself visiting angler must obtain a copy of the “Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife Sport Fishing Rules.” The 2010 edition is a 143-page “pamphlet” packed with a mind-boggling array of open and closing dates; tackle restrictions; special, species-specific regulations for lakes and streams; and a host of other rules that govern sport fishing in freshwater and marine environments. To embark on a fishing trip without first consulting the state’s regulatory tome seems foolhardy. Anglers
32 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
with state regulations. Lastly, should an angler need tackle or other gear while visiting Port Townsend, two downtown shops can help outfit everyone from fly fishers to spin casters, to deep-sea and surf-casting anglers. Mike Duncan at Port Townsend Angler owns and operates the town’s only fullservice fly shop. In addition to carrying tackle, guidebooks and other essentials, Duncan can help connect visiting anglers with local can obtain a copy at Swain’s guides. Along with licenses, Outdoor on Water Street in Swain’s Outdoor offers a Port Townsend, or download huge selection of fishing gear, one from the state website. Swain’s also sells Washington including bait and tackle for spin and saltwater fishermen. state fishing licenses. Although Washington Next, an angler would be sport-fishing regulations well advised to obtain a series govern angling activities on of maps, including a generalpublic lands, those wishing to purpose atlas, such as the fish inside Olympic National Delorme “Washington Atlas Park or in tribal areas should & Gazetteer,” coupled with consult those agencies for more detailed information, additional information. such as topographical maps or tide charts, depending on the angler’s final destination. Angling Links Third, visiting fly-fishing Washington anglers might find it helpful Department of Fish and Wildlife Download the 2010 sport fishing regulations to consult one of the many at wdfw.wa.gov/fish/regs/fishregs.htm. area guidebooks before hitOlympic National Park ting the water. At least three Visitor information 360-565-3130 are available locally and are Visitor information (TTY) 800-833-6388 tailored for fishing on the Road and weather hotline 360-565-3131 nps.gov/olym/fishing.htm peninsula: Steve Probasco’s “The Olympic Peninsula Port Townsend Angler Rivers Guide,” Doug Rose’s 940 Water St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 “Fly-Fishing Guide to the 360-379-3763 Olympic Peninsula,” and ptangler.com Dave Shorett’s “Olympic Swain’s Outdoor Mountains Fishing Guide.” 1121 Water St. Before setting out, an Port Townsend, WA 98368 glers should confirm that 360-385-1313 their fishing plans jibe swainsoutdoor.com
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ANTIQUES Downtown Port Townsend INSATIABLES old, rare & curious books
360-385-9262 821 Washington St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 Open Thursday – Monday
Bergstrom’s Antique Auto Classic Cars & Parts Huge selection of Unique Artifacts
809 Washington Street (360) 385-5061
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Knitting, Fine Fibers, Crocheting Supplies
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CHILDREN’S CLOTHING Great Selection & Handcrafted Items 360-385-5899
215 Polk Street - Downtown near Ferry Port Townsend (360) 385-5646
Victorian Square Cafe & Deli
Nautical Items • Jewelry • Porcelain China Collectibles • Furniture Rare Books
Unique Underground Cafe & Candy Shop
One of the biggest antique dealers on the peninsula. 802 Washington St., Port Townsend (360) 379-8069 Open 7 days a week
940 Water Street
Custom Printing, Design, Artwork, Promotional Products, Fundraisers
All in One Location - Open Daily 940 Water Street, Port Townsend, Washington The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 33
The view from Mount Walker near Brinnon provides spectacular vistas of the Olympics to the west and Puget Sound and the Cascades to the east.
Shrimp, hikes and rivers Mount Walker Viewpoint Panoramic views of Puget Sound are a hike or a drive from U.S. Highway 101. The gravel road is narrow and not recommended for trailers but is generally very passable for two-wheel-drive cars. Or, leave the car at the bottom of the hill and take the 2-mile hike. Call the Hood Canal District of Olympic National Forest at 360-765-2200.
Hood Canal region a jewel
If it’s a walk on the beach and a hike up a mountain you’re looking for – with a snack of shrimp sandwiched between – head for Hood Canal, Brinnon and Quilcene. See all of Puget Sound in Pleasant Harbor Marina On the one fell swoop with a drive county’s southern edge is Pleasant Harbor Marina, a 285-slip marina that offers great up Mount Walker – or hike facilities for boaters and travelers. Just south to the top if you have the is the public boat launch at Triton Cove. energy and time. Either way, Check out pleasantharbormarina.com or call you are rewarded with the 360-796-4611 or 800-547-3479. best view around for miles. If it’s an old-fashioned comDosewallips State Park Hiking and camping enthusiasts enjoy this park. munity event you’d like to savor, It’s unique because it offers freshwater and with food and activities and saltwater activities. Camp areas are in scenic, booths galore, put the Brinnon rustic settings. Visit parks.wa.gov. ShrimpFest on your calendar. The event features food, Quilcene Community Fair and fun, music and even belt Parade This annual fall celebration features a carnival, music, arts and crafts, sander races. If you don’t sportsman show and car show. Visit know what a belt sander race quilcene.com. is, go to ShrimpFest to find 34 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
out. It’s a hoot. And a holler. If the electricity works. What attracts people who live in the area also attracts people who visit: There’s an abundance of parks and other places to enjoy nature. The grassy field that hosts ShrimpFest in spring is home to a herd of elk in winter. Fresh shellfish are also a big attraction. Oysters from Quilcene and Dabob bays are shipped to the finest restaurants throughout world. Three rivers tumble out of the Olympic Mountains in South Jefferson County, traversing a landscape of towering firs and sweet meadows. The Big Quilcene, the Dosewallips and the Duckabush empty into the
saltwater of Hood Canal and offer plenty of recreational opportunities. Elwell P. Brinnon built the first homestead along the Duckabush River about 6 miles south of present-day Brinnon. Later he moved his wife, a sister to S’Klallam Chief Chetzemoka, to the present site of Brinnon along the Dosewallips, which locals often call “The Dosey.” While Brinnon remained a small community, Quilcene city leaders hoped their town might grow into a major port during the 1890s, when Port Townsend began building a railroad to Olympia and on to Portland. Quilcene would have been its first major stop, but extending the line across 2,730-foot Mount Walker just south of town proved too costly and brought railroad plans to an end. In the next century, Quilcene city leaders turned their aspirations to mining, but the Tubal Cain Mining Co. never hit a big-enough payload of copper or manganese to compensate for the inaccessibility of the site. The mines closed in the 1920s. Logging is the only trade that sustained both communities until the latter part of the 20th century. A $300 million destination resort and golf course at Pleasant Harbor at Black Point has been proposed for Brinnon’s future. Even without future development, the Pleasant Harbor Marina in Brinnon is one of the most pleasant and well-protected anchorages on the canal.
JEFFERSON COUNTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Port Townsend’s Air Taxi Service
Port Townsend Aero Museum 19 airplanes on display Large collection of models Aviation art Open 9-4, Wed.-Sun. 360-379-5244
See all the action! Outdoor seating!
Flight Instruction • Aircraft Rentals **SCENIC FLIGHTS** Aerial Photography **CHARTER FLIGHTS** **BUSINESS FREIGHT**
360-385-3185 7 Days • 7 am-4 pm
PORT TOWNSEND AIR, LLC www.flyporttownsend.com 360-385-7770
HIGHWAY 19 & AIRPORT RD. PORT TOWNSEND, WA Schooner Suva
Built in 1925 • 68 ft.
Check out PTs most creative store Scrapbooking • Stamping Gift Certificates • Ribbons Photo Printing Station Classes • Crop ‘n’ Craft Times Parties • Special Orders • Gift Registry •
Day Sails in Port Townsend • Wildlife Adventures Dinner Cruises with our own Gourmet Chef
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ONLINE GALLERY FORESTGEMS.COM The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 35
Paddle a kayak! By James Robinson of the Leader Port Townsend sits on the edge of arguably some of the finest sea-kayaking waters in the world. For years, kayak bums and paddle hounds have descended on this small Victorian city by the sea to attend the annual West Coast Sea Kayaking Symposium at Fort Worden State Park, to launch from Admiralty Inlet’s sandy beaches or to venture to points north such as the San Juan Islands or Canada’s Gulf Islands. This strong combination of paddling culture, abundant marine wildlife, breathtaking scenery and innumer-
able kayaking opportunities is why “Paddler Magazine” named Port Townsend one of the 13 best paddling towns in the United States for 2008. For the visiting kayaker, Port Townsend offers knowledgeable staff and a wide range of accessories at three downtown shops: Pygmy Boats at the Point Hudson Marina, Sport Townsend and PT Outdoors. In addition to paddling gear, PT Outdoors rents kayaks, offers a number of kayaking tours and teaches kayaking skills workshops. Regardless of skill level, anyone venturing into the chilly waters of Puget Sound should paddle in a boat
36 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
equipped with some means of flotation – either sealed bulkheads or flotation bags – a spray skirt, a personal flotation device with a whistle, a bilge pump and a paddle float. In addition, kayakers should dress for the water temperature and be aware that hypothermia, in the event of a capsize, poses a serious risk. Coastal kayakers should be able to quickly perform a wet exit and reentry, and knowledge of local tides and currents is paramount. Kayak Shops
PT Outdoors In addition to paddling gear, PT Outdoors offers kayak rentals, lessons and guided tours for individuals, small groups and families of all skill levels. 1017-B Water St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-379-3608, 888-754-8598 ptoutdoors.com
As the sun goes down over Port Townsend, the kayaks are put to bed at the Point Hudson Marina. Photo by James Robinson Pygmy Boats Inc. Pygmy Boats specializes in wood kayak kits. However, in addition to boats, kayakers will find a wide variety of paddling gear. The shop is located at the Point Hudson Marina. 355 Hudson St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-6143 pygmyboats.com Sport Townsend Within its paddling-oriented product line, Sport Townsend focuses largely on kayaking accessories but does have some boats available. 1044 Water St. Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-379-9711
Large selection of
HANAZONO ASIAN NOODLE
Traditional Japanese Cuisine with a contemporary twist. Beer• Wine
225 Taylor Street next to the Rose Theatre 360-385-7622
WELCOME TO THE FLAGSHIP LANDING All This in One Location on the Water • 1000 Block, Downtown Port Townsend
Puzzles, games & other fun stuff
PERSONALIZE IT! Affordable Papers & Gifts Custom Imprinting
decorative papers • greeting cards personalized napkins • ﬁne stationery seals & sealing wax • invitations desk accessories • wedding favors ﬁne writing instruments • journals
Something for everyone.
Open 7 Days a Week
Cross Stitch • Quilts • Gifts Quilting Supplies
Sleepy Otter Crafts & Quilts 1011 Water Street, Flagship Landing Port Townsend • 360-379-4091
Open Daily 10-5, Closed Tuesday 1017-A Water Street, Port Townsend 360-302-0427
1013 Water Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-379-1278 Toll free 888-750-2209 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 37
Be a bird watcher From do-it-yourself birding walks to guided birding and wildlife cruises to the Protection Island National Wildlife Refuge, Port Townsend and the Quimper Peninsula have much to offer bird enthusiasts. For the ornithologically inclined, no stroll on the beach should be undertaken without a pair of binoculars, as coastal areas provide habitat to myriad bird species. While shorelines provide opportunities to view a dizzying array of seabirds and sea mammals, inland areas such as Kah Tai Lagoon, Chinese Gardens and Fort Worden State Park provide opportunities to spot numerous pine forest species and large raptors. A summer trip to Protection Island with the Port Townsend Marine Science Center offers opportunities to view more than 85 bird species – including tufted puffins – and eight mammal species, including sea lions, elephant seals, whales and porpoises.
A heron takes off across the water, just barely brushing the surface with a wing. Photo by Steve Barry
Five do-it-yourself birding hot spots Kah Tai Lagoon: Located south of the historic downtown with ample parking at the Haines Place Park-and-Ride, Kah Tai is a brackish lagoon skirted by trails offering opportunities in the spring to view swallows, warblers, nighthawks, marsh wrens, Virginia rails, great blue herons and
cedar waxwings. In the fall, watch for pied-billed grebes, hooded mergansers, scaups, buffleheads, lesser and greater yellowlegs, dowitchers, sandpipers, yellowrumped warblers and snipes. Point Hudson: Spring bird watching near the sand spit (visible at low tide) offers opportunities to view rhinoceros auklets and Heermann’s gulls. During the fall, watch for black brants, black turnstones, black oystercatchers, sanderlings, dunlins, surf birds, and harlequin ducks. Puffins have heavy bodies that help them dive as deep as 200 feet below the surface. Their short wings are better for “flying” underwater than flying in the air. Photo by Steve Mullensky
38 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Fort Worden – Beaches and Point Wilson: Anyone who enjoys the outdoors should pack a lunch and spend the day wandering the beaches and trails of Fort Worden State Park. At Point Wilson, guillemots have nest boxes under the pier. Near the lighthouse, watch for surf and whitewinged scoters; rhinoceros auklets (in spring, watch as hundreds carry mouthfuls of small fish to feed young); buffleheads; harlequins; common murres; marbled and ancient murrelets; sanderlings; red-breasted mergansers; horned and red-necked grebes; common, Pacific and red-throated ● ● ● Continued on page 40
BELMONT Built 1885
Port Townsend’s only remaining 1880s waterfront restaurant and saloon
URGENT CARE Minor Emergency & Walk-in Clinic
WALK-IN MEDICAL CARE
Treating Illness - Injuries On-Site X-Ray & Lab Specialized Screenings - No Outside Order Flu Shots & Other Immunizations DOT, Sports & Other Physicals Employment Drug Testing L&I, Private Worker’s Comp ~~~~~~
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FRESH NORTHWEST SEAFOOD WATERFRONT DINING COCKTAIL LOUNGE HISTORIC HOTEL ROOMS Northwest Approved
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Bradley A. Bringgold, MD Steven K. Hillman, MD Elinor J. Tatham, MD James C. Blair III, PA-C
No Appointments – Walk-In Call for Open Hours The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 39
a stop at Killisut Harbor/ Mystery Bay or Smith Island. Naturalists from the Marine Science Center serve as onboard guides Located at the mouth of and provide commentary on Discovery Bay, Protection local birds, mammals, geolIsland is home to breeding, ogy, history and weather. nesting and flyway popuProtection Island Puffin lations of numerous bird Cruises: Protection Island species, including loons, is a very special place in the phalaropes, mergansers, summer. Dry, brown and merlins, bald eagles, oyster- lonely, it appears inhospicatchers, harlequin ducks, table. Contrary to appearmurrelets, auklets and more. ances however, the island More than 85 bird species teems with thousands of and eight mammal species, nesting birds – rhinoceros including sea lions, elephant auklets, glaucous-winged seals, whales and porpoises, gulls, pigeon guillemots, have been sighted here. double-crested and pelagic Cruises visit the island on cormorants, black oysterSaturdays in spring and fall, catchers and even a few and are timed to coincide pairs of tufted puffins. It is with annual migrations. for a glimpse of the elusive Marine Science Center tufted puffin that many staff plans special trips visitors make the trip. for Thanksgiving weekend and New Year’s Eve. Keep your binoculars handy when The three-hour cruises you are out and about. Seabirds and depart from the Point forest dwellers mingle with city birds Hudson Marina and include everywhere. Numerous bald eagles call the Port Townsend area home. They can frequently be seen on high branches surveying their hunting grounds.
Birding ● ● ● Continued from page 38
loons; double-crested Brandt’s and pelagic cormorants; and Thayer’s gull. Fort Worden – Forest: Douglas fir forests shroud Fort Worden’s hills and hidden bunkers, providing birdwatchers with opportunities to view pine siskins, red crossbills, black-capped and chestnut-sided chickadees, ruby- and goldencrowned kinglets, winter wren, varied and Swainson’s thrushes, and Anna’s hummingbirds. In the spring, orange-crowned warblers, olive-sided and Pacificslope flycatchers, migrating warblers and vireos, make the park their home. North Beach and Chinese Gardens Lagoon: At the tip of the Quimper Peninsula, North Beach and the Chinese Gardens Lagoon offer a variety of bird and wildlife viewing opportunities. It is also a dog lover’s park – a place where many locals come to let their pooches romp in the surf. Visitors to the area should park at North
Beach County Park at the end of Kuhn Street. The Chinese Gardens’ brackish lagoon is home to hooded mergansers, shovelers, scaups, buffleheads, pintails, green-winged teals, great blue herons, song sparrows and marsh wrens. There is a freshwater pond in the forest near the lagoon’s southeast corner. Look there for green-winged teals, ring-necked ducks, gadwalls and wood ducks. Beachcombers and bird watchers can explore North Beach in either direction. Look for black oystercatchers on the rocks west of the parking area, buffleheads, harlequins, red-breasted mergansers, horned grebes, surf scoters, bald eagles and great blue herons. Birding and wildlife viewing cruises For those who prefer a guided birding excursion, the Port Townsend Marine Science Center offers wildlife cruises to the Protection Island National Wildlife Refuge beginning in April.
40 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 41
Downtown National Historic District: Pioneers settled this narrow, sea-level spot in 1851. Ship captains from around the world came to this port. Now, you can find art galleries, antiques, unique shops and great restaurants. Enjoy pubs, hotels and coffee shops, and beach access, public docks, offshore moorage, kayak and small boat launches, and rental and ferry services. Uptown National Historic District: Victorian ladies shopped and lived here to avoid the rough-and-tumble waterfront district. Today, seniors and kids share a community center. A Saturday farmers market fills the
COMMUNITY CALENDAR The best resource to find out what’s going on in Port Townsend and Jefferson County while you’re here is to pick up a copy of the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader newspaper, which includes our This Week arts and entertainment section and a Community Calendar events listing. Visit us on the web at ptleader.com.
Beach Access: “Footprint” symbols on the map lead you to easy public beach access. Wildlife use these beaches, too, so please stay clear of beached seal pups and don’t let your dogs chase birds. If you have a state license, you can drop your crab pot from a public dock. Saltwater swimming is OK. Just know that Port Townsend Bay has an average temperature of about 54 degrees F. Walk or pedal: Experience this pedestrian- and bike-friendly community. Look for “public trail” signs. The self-guided Port Townsend Walking Map and a Quimper Peninsula Bicycle Map are available at City Hall, the visitor center and various businesses. Fort Worden State Park: Starting in 1902, Army Coast Artillery soldiers kept watch here, and in the 1960s, juvenile delinquents were evaluated here. Now, many musicians, writers, dancers and artists create here. Campers, boaters, divers, sunbathers and beach walkers relax. Sandcastles and marine science knowl-
42 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Kid Stuff: Visiting kids of all ages alwaysK A O enjoy an indoor public swimming pool CO and school playground equipment. Boarders roll at the skate park downtown. Check out the ice cream parlors, funky clothing shops, teen concerts and coffee shops. There’s always the beach! Chetzemoka Park: Choose your piece of sunshine or shade, grassy lawn, gazebo or picnic table. Walk the rose arbor, walk the beach. Run your dog off-leash at a special park next door. Learn how the city’s first public park in 1905 was named that year for S’Klallam Chief Chetzemoka. Park-and-Ride: Now that you’ve driven here, consider parking at the Haines Place Park-and-Ride just off the city’s main entrance. People with RVs and other large vehicles should park here and take a shuttle bus downtown. The Port Townsend Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center is located here. It’s next to Kah Tai Lagoon Nature Park, a bird-watching favorite. Theaters: Thespians are on stage uptown at Key City Public Theatre, active for more than 50 years. Motion pictures play at the classic Rose Theatre downtown (PT Film Festival center each September), the historic Uptown Theatre uptown, and the vintage Wheel-In Motor Movie just off the highway about 3 miles south of town.
Point Hudson: Find your best public beach-walk access here, where Capt. George Vancouver came ashore in 1792. Native Americans camped here; Coast Guard trainees and soldiers were on duty here. Most of the area is now owned by the public port district. You can row, paddle or sail with Northwest Maritime Center/Wooden Boat Foundation programs, and enjoy the Wooden Boat Festival.
SC OV ER YR
Architecture: Craftsmen built fine examples of architecture, including Victorian and Greek Revival. Folks live and work in these homes and commercial and government buildings dating from the 1800s and early 1900s. See a self-guided Historic Site Tour Map elsewhere in this magazine.
edge are built. Historians teach and tour. Hollywood has been here as well, including the 1981 filming of the motion picture “An Officer and a Gentleman.”
street seasonally. From the theater to the market, you can shop, dine and enjoy uptown businesses. Great for walking and biking!
Now that you’re here, these are some of the “must see” points of interest and things to experience in Port Townsend.
WELCOME Larr y Sc ott T rail
Strait of Juan de Fuca
North Beach County Park
Fort Worden State Park
Jefferson County Fairgrounds
McCurdy Wheeler Pavilion Theater
Blue Heron Middle School
Marine Science Center
Coast Artillery Museum
Whale Watching & Passenger Ferry to the San Juan Islands
Morgan Sather Hill
D RY R DI
WA Y MS
w p to
st Po ce ffi O
ty un use Co rtho N ER u TO WAT Co NG
PARK & RIDE
Castle Hill ✚
Medal of Honor Memorial
y rar e Lib Fir all H
Mt. View Commons Police Station & Swimming Pool
Kah Tai Lagoon Nature Park
Port Townsend High School
Port Townsend Golf Course
Grant Street Elementary
SC OV E
Upper Sims Way
UM AT IL
Farmers Market ller Ha ntain u o F
Wooden Boat Foundation
all yH Cit
n to w n w Union
e, ys t o n t o Ke Is l a nd y r r Fe be y Whid
Port of Port Townsend
Points of Interest
Off-leash dog park
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 43
Many of Fort Worden’s old military buildings have been restored and are used today for administrative offices, meeting rooms, dormitories and vacation rentals. The park’s woodland trails and sandy beaches are extremely popular with visitors and locals alike.
Forts yesterday, parks today Looking Back May 27, 1898 “Today the preliminary survey work at Point Wilson will be begun, preparatory to commencing work on the big fortifications to be erected.” November 1904 A soldier causes a downtown Port Townsend dance hall disturbance: “The dancing was in progress when the fellow, who was overloaded, pulled a big ugly looking gun and accentuated his lusty yells with a shot now then from the gun. He finished the six shots from the gun and was still on the yell when the police arrived and took him in tow.” July 1950 “Impending departure of military personnel from this vicinity [to the Far East] was reflected this and last week in the rush of applications for marriage licenses at the county courthouse.”
The military has left its mark on Jefferson County, and it’s a true “swords into plowshares” tale. In 1856, the U.S. Army established Fort Townsend near the head of Port Townsend Bay. The major buildings burned in 1895 and were never rebuilt. But there was still a need to protect Seattle and the naval shipyard at Bremerton. Three major fortifications – Fort Flagler on Marrowstone Island (1899), Fort Casey on Whidbey Island (1900) and Fort Worden on the Quimper Peninsula (1902) – formed a 106-gun naval defense triangle. It was a technological marvel when constructed. The Army Coast Artillery Corps was considered the
44 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
most technical branch of military service and was “good duty” because there wasn’t a lot of marching involved. By 1918, aircraft had proven fixed fortifications obsolete. The forts here had renewed importance in the early 1940s but were sold as government surplus in the 1950s – all to the state. The net result has been great for education, recreation and many other programs hosted at these local Washington State Parks: Fort Worden, Fort Flagler and Old Fort Townsend. Three museums associated with these parks provide details of this area’s military history. Fort Flagler State Park Museum is easy to reach: Go to Port Hadlock and look for the park’s road signs. Cross Portage Canal Bridge, cross Indian Island, and bear left (north) as you enter Marrowstone Island. The park is located at the northern tip of the island. Fort Flagler was the first of the Puget Sound Harbor
Defense posts built to protect Admiralty Inlet, the entry to Puget Sound. Friends of Fort Flagler State Park have led special restoration efforts at the park, creating a different experience from other nearby coast artillery forts turned into state parks. The volunteer-led museum offers a 14-minute video, guided tours of the historical gun emplacements from May to September, and a gift shop. Admission is by donation. Call the park office at 360-385-1259. There are two museum experiences at Fort Worden State Park (1902) in Port Townsend. For more park events, visit parks.wa.gov/fortworden. The Commanding Officer’s Quarters (1904) illustrates how a senior officer and his family lived on an army fort at the turn of the 20th century. It is open daily, 11 a.m.-5 p.m., in June, July and August. The Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum is in Building 201, next to the park office. Operated since 1979 by a nonprofit volunteer association, the museum with artifacts, uniforms, models, maps, photos and digital presentations includes a gift shop, and is open year-round. Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m., with extended hours on Saturdays in July and August. Tours are provided by appointment. Artillery Hill guided tours are offered in the summer. Call 360-385-0373 or email email@example.com.
1958-2010 Plan Your Great Escape!
Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery
Our 2010 Season April 16 to May 8 The Seagull by Anton Chekhov Ten Russians. Five love stories. A suicide. A comedy. June 18 to July 11 The Prisoner of Second Avenue by Neil Simon Take a bite out of the Big Apple, Simon-style. August 6 - 22 The Tempest Shakespeare in the Park August 13 - 29 Boyce & Melinda Peterson’s Investment Strategies for the Post-Money World A Financial Seminar Musical (!) October 8 - 24 Here’s to the Ladies: The Women of Tin Pan Alley A Musical Cabaret
617 Tyler St. Port Townsend Washington 98368 360.385.1199
150 South 5th Ave. Sequim Washington 98382 360.681.3280
4569 Lynwood Center Rd. Bainbridge Isl. Washington 98110 718-310-0507
www.panedamore.com Come visit the
COAST ARTILLERY MUSEUM
WordPlay Reading Series (Spring & Fall) PT Shorts (first Saturday of every month)
Key City Playhouse
419 Washington St., Port Townsend Advance tickets from Quimper Sound 230 Taylor Street, or online
Show Info Line: 360-385-7396 www.keycitypublictheatre.org
Located at Fort Worden State Park The Harbor Entrance Control Facing the parade ground next to the Park HQ Post on top of Artillery Hill Open 11 am - 4 pm, 7 Days a Week, Year-round Open Saturdays 11 am-3 pm Fridays & Saturdays, July & August 10 am - 5 pm June, July & August Small admission fee SPECIAL GROUP TOURS, CALL 360-385-0373
Local Goods Cafe. 7 am daily. Espresso drinks, house-made pastries and desserts, flavorful grab-and-go sandwiches and salads.
Visit for a day or stay for a lifetime – and still not experience it all! Lodging & camping accommodations available
Cable House, on the beach, open ’til 6 pm daily. Madeto-order grill favorites and sundries. Indulge and enjoy your favorite ice cream treats. Call ahead orders welcome.
Guardhouse Visitor Center & Gift Shop The museum is dedicated to the Daily 10 am-4 pm preservation and interpretation of the history of the U.S. Army’s Embroidered knits, tops and old Coast Artillery Corps, with sweatshirts, caps and totes, Fort special emphasis on the Harbor Worden and lighthouse coffee Defense of the Puget Sound and mugs, pins, patches, keychains, the Fort Worden story. books and maps. Locally made candles, lotions and soaps. 11-4 daily, $2 adults, $1 kids
360-344-4447 360-385-0373 Park Office 360-344-4400 Fort Worden State Park Conference Center – a Learning Center. Come experience it ALL!
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 45
Tour a museum Take advantage of your getaway in Jefferson County by checking out our history with a visit to one of our museums. You might also want to investigate the Jefferson County Historical Society Research Center, shared by the Jefferson County Genealogical Society. Along with traditional museums – including the Rothschild House, the smallest state park in Washington – we have the Kelly Art Deco Light Museum and the Port Townsend Aero Museum. Quilcene Historical Museum is located at 151 E. Columbia, at the intersection of Center Road, in Quilcene. Admission is by
LOOKING BACK (From the pages of the Port Townsend Leader) October 1897 “Klondike Gold! The Port Townsend Board of Trade respectfully asks your attention to the fact that persons bound to the great gold fields of the North can obtain everything they need from the merchants of Port Townsend, at prices from 5 to 20 percent less than in any other city of Puget Sound.”
donation. Hours are 1-5 p.m. Friday-Monday from April to September. Limited winter visits are possible, or research may be arranged by calling ahead. Leave a message at 360-765-4848, 360-765-3192 or 360-765-4404. Jefferson County Historical Society Museum is found in Port Townsend’s historic City Hall, 540 Water St. Check out the gift shop. Museum hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday-Sunday in January-February and daily the rest of the year. Contact 360385-1003 or firstname.lastname@example.org; visit jchsmuseum.org Jefferson County Historical Society Research Center is the place to look up family and property histories, view photos and investigate a library of genealogical resources. The center is shared by the Jefferson County Genealogical Society at 13692 Airport Cutoff Road (State Route 19), about 5 miles south of Port Townsend. Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. TuesdaySaturday. Call 360-379-6673.
A pair of gliders hangs from the roof of the Port Townsend Aero Museum, located at Jefferson County International Airport just outside Port Townsend.
Rothschild House State Park is a historic home with original furnishings of the Rothschild family (1868-1954). Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. daily, May through September, at Jefferson and Taylor streets in Port Townsend. Contact 360-379-8076 or 360385-1003; visit jchsmuseum. org/Rothschild/house.html.
Kelly Art Deco Light Museum, the only known American art deco lighting museum in the world, is open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. On exhibit at the free museum are rare, one-of-a-kind art deco fixtures selected from a 30-year collection of more than 2,000.
May 1915 “Word was received in this city yesterday afternoon that a Ford touring car driven by Frank Hart had completed the trip over the Olympic Highway [U.S. Highway 101 along Hood Canal] from Quilcene to Olympia. Hart is the first man to have covered the entire distance.” March 1918 A schooner arrives in Port Townsend Bay and stands out from the other vessels. “The Wergerland is minus two masts, the sticks having gone over the side when the schooner was 100 miles outside Cape Flattery.” 46 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Located in the Kelly Building, 2000 Sims Way, Port Townsend. Contact 360-379-9030; visit thedecomuseum.com. Port Townsend Aero Museum provides work-based opportunities for youths and young adults, and restores, flies and displays antique aircraft at Jefferson County International Airport south of Port Townsend. Hours are 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Contact 360-531-0252, ptam@olypen. com or thuotte@waypoint. com; visit ptaeromuseum.com.
Port Townsend’s historic City Hall, shown here providing the background for boats hauled from the water, has seen a lot of history. Today, it houses the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum on Water Street in Port Townsend.
Find Your Voice, Feed Your Spirit at Centrum
PORT TOWNSEND SCHOOL OF WOODWORKING
The Olympic Peninsula’s finest selection! 25 Years of Fun, Laughter & Creating! Call and ask about our FREE classes.
Fort Worden State Park Port Townsend, Washington
COT TON, WOOL, WOOL BLENDS, PAT TERNS, NEEDLES
Beginner through master classes in cabinet making, furniture making, wood turning and historic preservation at historic Fort Worden State Park
1821 Irondale Rd., Port Hadlock
Information and class schedule online
2010 Workshop and Festival Schedule Choro Famoso with Mike Marshall
June 28-July 3 Festival of American Fiddle Tunes
PT Chamber Music Festival
M-T-Th-F-Sa: 10-5 • W 10-7 • disyashop@qwestoﬃce.net
Dive into science at the
Port Townsend Marine Science Center
The Marine Exhibit and Natural History Exhibit are located at Fort Worden State Park Touch living marine animals in our pools See eye-to-eye with a tubesnout Listen to Orcas on our hydrophone Assemble a whale skeleton Discover a place where science happens!
Go to www.ptmsc.org for seasonal hours of operation
July 15, 16, 17
PT Writers’ Conference
Jazz Port Townsend
July 25-Aug 1
PT Acoustic Blues Festival
Skin Care 930 Washington St. Port Townend
Facials Waxing Lash & Brow Tinting Exfoliation & Body Wraps Local Organic Products
Licensed Esthetician 360-821-1718 www.ConnieSegal.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 47
Explore our county parks Parks managed by Jefferson County have their own feel. They are smaller, more intimate, and more likely the kinds of places local residents go when they want to picnic or launch their boat. Indian Island Park, located
Jump into a park For complete information on parks in Jefferson County, visit the Jefferson County Parks and Recreation website at countyrec. com or call 360-385-9129. Camping season is April 1-Oct. 31. Beware of toxic algae: Jefferson County Public Health monitors local lakes for blue-green algae. In 2009, levels warranted a health advisory, and people were asked to avoid swimming in Leland, Gibbs and Anderson lakes. Pets should not be allowed to drink from lakes when algae bloom is present. Lakes are posted when algae blooms occur. Visit the health department website at jeffersoncountypublichealth.org for more information.
on Indian Island west and south of State Route 116 near the Portage Canal Bridge to Marrowstone Island, has 2 miles of shoreline, new widened trails along the bluff above the beach, and amazing views of Oak Bay. And the clams are fantastic. But don’t forget to get a shellfish permit and dig in the right season. For a wedding or an extended family gathering, you can’t beat H.J. Carroll Park on State Route 19 in Chimacum. The Rotary Pavilion can shelter 100 people. The landscaping, creek access, lawns and walking trails are superb for the entire family.
north of Mats Mats Bay, it offers boat ramp, beach, picnicking, approximately eight campsites, six picnic sites. Upper Oak Bay: On 5 acres located above the Lower Oak Bay Campground, it offers playground, 24 campsites, two picnic sites. Limited electrical hookups.
Day-use parks Three parks that have offered camping in the past won’t in 2010, but these parks are still available for day use and picnics. They are: Chimacum: On 8 acres located behind the TriArea Community Center and across the road from Chimacum Schools, it offers water, shelter and four picnic sites. Lake Leland: On 2.6 acres located between Discovery Bay and Quilcene, it offers boat ramp, beach, freshwaCampgrounds ter fishing, two picnic Jefferson County has sites. No potable water. two fee campgrounds; no Quilcene: On 4 acres reservations are required. located behind the Quilcene Lower Oak Bay: On 26 Community Center in acres located on saltwater southeast of Port Hadlock and Quilcene, it offers play-
48 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Hikers take off from North Beach Park. The small county park provides a public beach access and connects with a trail system to Fort Worden.
ground area, tennis court, shelter, and two picnic sites. Other day-use parks include: Courthouse Park, East Beach Park (Marrowstone Island), Gibbs Lake (off West Valley Road in Chimacum), H.J. Carroll Park (Rhody Drive/SR 19, Chimacum), Memorial Field (Port Townsend), Port Townsend Community Center, Indian Island Park, Shine Boat Ramp (Shine Road), Irondale Community Park, Larry Scott Memorial Park/Trail (Port Townsend), Quilcene River Park, Quilcene Park (next to Quilcene Community Center), North Beach Park (Port Townsend) and Irondale Beach (unimproved open space at the end of Moore Street in Irondale). A variety of activities are available at these day-use parks, from mountain biking to basketball, picnicking, kayaking and more. All are open during daylight
hours. For a complete guide, visit countyrec.com. Rec Center The Port Townsend Recreation Center at 620 Tyler St. offers a play area outside. A fitness area and gym, a climbing wall and table games – such as table tennis, billiards and foosball – are available for a fee by reservation only. There is also a commercial kitchen and meeting space. Call 360-385-2221 for details. Fairgrounds Jefferson County Fairgrounds is managed by the Jefferson County Fair Association. Services include building rentals, a campground, and RV, boat and car storage. Building rentals available for reunions, weddings, receptions and other events include large
meeting rooms with kitchens, covered picnic area, large dance hall with stage and kitchen, and an outdoor horse arena. The campground includes restrooms with showers; trailer sump station; 18 power, water and sewer sites; 40 power and water sites; and 22 dry tenting sites available on a daily basis, $15-$20. Special rates are available for RV groups of 10 or more; up to 200 RVs can be accommodated. The association office is open 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. MondayFriday at 49th and Landes streets in Port Townsend. Call 360-385-1013 or visit jeffcofairgrounds.com.
North Beach Park is popular with dogs and dog walkers. An old boat ramp provides a spot to throw sticks for fetching.
Waterfront Dining, Northwest Cuisine • Spectacular Views of Townsend Bay State of the Art Meeting & Conference Facilities • A World Class, Three Story Art Gallery Serving Lunch, Dinner, Sunday Brunch & Wine Tasting • Reservations Recommended
New Guestrooms & Suites • Nemo’s Restaurant • The Art Mine Gallery Spa Services available • 160-Slip Marina 310 Hadlock Bay Road, Port Hadlock, WA 360.385.7030
w w w.
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 49
Chetzemoka Park 46
n Mo e nro y
It is known for its Victorian-era architecture.
5 16 1
Port Townsend is home to many historic and otherwise unique homes and commercial buildings. Visitors can view some of them by following this map. Starting downtown at Water and Tyler streets, follow the map’s highlighted route and match the numbers on the map to the descriptions below. Most historic homes are not open to the public unless they are posted as being open, have been converted into inns or are featured in special events. Please use
50 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
The City of Port Townsend is one of three ports along the coastline of the United States named to the National Register of Historic Places.
50 38 27 7 36 3 9 3 28 30 51-5 9 1 4 3 0 1 29 31 32 35 11 54 18 33 2 15 78 City 13 4 6 Dock 2 13 14 Union Wharf
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Take the historic homes tour HiSToric SEAporT
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44 43 39 42 40 41
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Kah Tai Lagoon Nature Park
Mt. View Commons & Swimming Pool
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Port Townsend Golf Course
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Port Townsend High School
courtesy when enjoying our historic landmarks! 1. Capt. Tibbals Building (1889), now The Palace Hotel, was a “rooming house,” 1004 Water. 2. Lighthouse Café Building (pre-1880) was former home of the renowned Axtel Saloon, 955 Water. 3. James and Hastings Building (1889) was built by pioneers Francis W. James and Lucinda Hastings at 940 Water. 4. Sterming Block (1889) was built by George Sterming for his Belmont Saloon at 925 Water. 5. Mount Baker Block (1890) was built as an office building during
railroad days at 910 Water. 6. Hastings Building (1889), built by pioneer Lucinda Hastings, is still owned by that family at 839 Water. 7. C.F. Clapp Building (1885), the earliest building in the city with a cast iron façade, is at 725 Water. 8. Waterman & Katz Building (1885) was formerly the W&K dry goods store at 701 Water. 9. Bishop Block (1891), built by British sailor and builder William Bishop, is home to the Bishop Victorian Hotel, 714 Washington. 10. Enoch S. Fowler Building (1874) was the county courthouse in territorial days and since 1916 has housed the offices of the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader at 226 Adams. 11. Haller Fountain (1906), donated by Theodore Haller in memory of his father, Granville O. Haller, commander of Fort Townsend, features the statue known ● ● ● Continued on page 52
Hippies & Retirees Agree:
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A little out of the way ... but way out of the ordinary.
“Best Mexican Dining North of the Border!” Authentic Mexican Specialties Seafood – Vegetarian Cocktails Open for
Voted (again) “Best Steak,” “Best Seafood” and “Best Place to Take Your Visitors.” ~ The Leader 2009
Lunch & Dinner 7 Days a Week
Award-winning steak & Seafood!
Serving Dinner Nightly at 5pm
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628 Water St. Port Townsend
NIGHTLY / WEEKLY RATES The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 51
Jefferson County’s courthouse is a wonderful example of architecture from the beginning of the 20th century. (1871) was built for his bride, Sophie Pettygrove, at 633 Van Buren. 21. Capt. Thomas Grant House (1887), a fine example of Italianate Villa style, is at 731 Pierce. 22. Thomas Hammond House (1890), a Victorian home with an unusual corner fireplace, is at 834 Pierce. 23. Henry Wylie House (1889) is a Queen Anne “cottage” with excellent decorative detail, 932 Pierce. 24. Old Catholic Church (date unknown) was used until 1958 and is now a private residence at 1510 Blaine.
38. St. Paul’s Episcopal Parish Hall (1860s) arrived by barge and was moved in 1999 to the bluff at Jefferson and Adams. It is now a wedding chapel. 39. Capt. DeLion House (1882) is an Italianate Renaissance-style home at 712 Clay. 40. George Starrett House (1889), a notable Victorian home, is now Ann Starrett Mansion Victorian Boutique Hotel at 744 Clay. 41. Trinity United Methodist Church (1871), the state’s oldest Methodist church, is at 609 Taylor. 42. Peter Mutty House (1881) still has the iron grillwork that was removed from many Victorian houses, 640 Taylor. 43. Edward Sims Home (1886) is the former home of a noted state legislator at 716 Lawrence that was remodeled in 1905.
44. L.C. Strong House (1876) is a 25. Charles Pink House (1868) features late restored home at 740 Taylor. Greek Revival architecture at 1256 Lawrence. 45. Elias DeVoe House (1888) was 26. Carnegie Library (1913), the city built as a showplace for DeVoe’s library built with Carnegie Foundation masonry business at 538 Lincoln. funds, is at 1220 Lawrence. 46. Chetzemoka Park (1904), Port 27. R.C. Hill House (1872), a pioneer Townsend’s oldest park, is named after family home, is now Holly Hill House Klallam Chief Chetzemoka, who died in 1888. bed and breakfast, 611 Polk. 47. Cupola House (c. 1933-34) at 380 28. George Downs House (1886) is Jefferson was part of the U.S. Coast noted for its artistic stained glass Guard station at Point Hudson. windows at 538 Fillmore. 48. Commander’s Beach House (1934), 29. H.L. Tibbals House (1887) was built by original residence of the commanding a major town leader at 1208 Franklin. medical officer for the Coast Guard quarantine station, is now a bed 30. Col. Henry Landes House (1882), home and breakfast at 400 Hudson. of a retired colonel who later became a state senator, is at 1034 Franklin. 49. Point Hudson, Native American 31. First Presbyterian Church (1890), a Queen Anne-style building with an impressive antique pipe organ, is at 1111 Franklin.
Homes continued ● ● ● Continued from page 50 as Galatea at Washington and Taylor. 12. Rose Theatre (1907), still downtown’s movie house, was restored in 1992 at 235 Taylor. 13. Francis Wilcox James House (1891), built by the James family at 1238 Washington, is now The James House bed and breakfast. 14. Customs House (1893) holds the U.S. post office and other public agencies at 1322 Washington. 15. F.W. Hastings House (1889), now the Old Consulate Inn Bed and Breakfast, is at 313 Walker.
32. Capt. Enoch S. Fowler Home (c. 1866) is Port Townsend’s oldest remaining home, 1040 Jefferson. 33. Frank A. Bartlett Home (1860) has a French mansard roof and fine architectural lines at 314 Polk.
16. O’Rear House (1891), winner of 2004 Washington State Historic Preservation Award, is down the hill from the Hastings House, at 1932 Washington.
34. St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1865), oldest church in the Olympia Diocese and one of the oldest standing structures in town, is at 1032 Jefferson.
17. Jefferson Count Courthouse (1892), one of the two oldest government buildings in state, features a 124-foot clock tower at 1820 Jefferson.
35. Fire Bell Tower (1890), which once summoned the town’s volunteer firemen, is on the bluff at foot of Tyler, at Jefferson.
18. Harry Barthrop House (1880), a Georgian-style home, is now The Quimper Inn bed and breakfast, 1306 Franklin. 19. N.D. Hill House (1880), a Victorian Gothic home, is now the Blue Gull Inn bed and breakfast, 1310 Clay. 20. Capt. James McIntyre House
52 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
36. Rothschild House State Park (1868), built by a prominent local merchant on the bluff above Jefferson Street at Taylor, is now a museum. Summer tours, admission (entrance on Taylor). 37. Baker House (1898), former home of a prominent dentist, is now a bed and breakfast at 905 Franklin.
seasonal camp and site of Capt. Vancouver’s 1792 landing, is now owned by the Port of Port Townsend and home to Point Hudson Marina, restaurants and marine trades shops. 50. Swan Hotel (1911), built by James Swan, frontier scientist and historian, is at 216 Monroe. 51. City Hall (1891), also home of the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum at 540 Water, gained an addition in 2005 at 250 Madison.
52. Lewis Building (1889), originally the Fowler/Caines Building, is at 630 Water. 53. Franklin House (1886), Port Townsend’s first fireplace brick hotel, was enlarged from an 1869 wooden building at 636 Water. 54. N.D. Hill Building (1889) housed the Hill family’s drugstore; it now houses the Water Street Hotel at 635 Water and the Port Townsend Brewery at 639 Water.
e! Locals agre
OPEN DAILY 7 AM to 2 PM
• Breakfast All Day • Lunch from 11:30 AM • Beer and Wine • Lunch Crepes
Sodas, Shakes, Sundaes & Good Old-Fashioned Burgers
Overlooking Franklin Court Gardens 634 Water St. Port Townsend 360-385-6532
Open 7 Days a Week • 817 Water St. • Port Townsend
without leaving Port Townsend
Authentic Homestyle Thai Cuisine Serving Port Townsend since 1989
Putter’s Bay Café
THANK YOU for voting us Best Asian Food 2009 Beautiful Water View Great Food • Deck Seating
UNIQUE BREAKFAST & LUNCH
225 Adams Street • Port Townsend (360) 385-5023 www.khularbthai.com
Tuesday - Sunday: 7 am - 3 pm 7401 Cape George Rd. • Discovery Bay Golf Course
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 53
Events Enjoy these local experiences These are just some of the events taking place in Jefferson County. For more information, read the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader (ptleader. com) – especially for details about local classes, seminars and programs that supplement the events and festivals listed here. (All events are subject to change.)
Ongoing events Chimacum Farmers’ Market • Open 11 a.m.-3 p.m. on Sundays, May through October at the Chimacum Grange on Rhody Drive, 360-732-0015, chimacumgrange.com.
Bicyclists take the challenge of riding area roads each year in several different events. These riders pedaled in the springtime Rhody Bike Tour.
Free Friday Concerts • Presented at noon on the outside patio at Fort Worden State Park Commons from the end of June through mid-August. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org. Gallery Walk • Galleries and other art venues in Port Townsend stay open in the evening on the first Saturday of each month. Many hold opening receptions for the artists and offer light refreshments. Living History Walking Tours • Conducted each weekend in downtown and uptown Port Townsend during the summer season. Group tours (season or off-season) can be scheduled by prior arrangement. Sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, jchsmuseum.org. Maritime Skills Workshops • Conducted year-round at Port Hadlock Heritage Campus of Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding, 360-385-4948, nwboatschool.org.
27th Olympic Music Festival • July 3-Aug. 22, Saturdays and Sundays at a dairy barn near Quilcene, 360732-4800, olympicmusicfestival.org. Friday Market in Port Ludlow Village Center • Each Friday, May 7 through Sept. 24, 360-4370882, portludlowtoday.com. Port Townsend Farmers Market • Uptown on Saturdays, May 1 through mid-December at Tyler and Lawrence, and on Wednesdays from mid-June through September at Polk and Lawrence, 360-3799098, ptfmhome.blogspot.com. Port Townsend Marine Science Center • Adult and youth marine science activities throughout the year in the Natural History Exhibit, the Marine Exhibit and on the beach at Fort Worden State Park, 360-385-5582, ptmsc.org. PT Shorts • Dramatic short readings by local actors presented on the first Saturday of each month in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Commission and produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Protection Island Cruises •
54 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Port Townsend’s annual Kinetic Sculpture Race provides wacky merrymaking as daring adventurers test their mettle against water, hills and the dismal bog. Spring migration, summer puffin, fall migration and specialty cruises aboard Glacier Spirit. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-3855582, 800-566-3932, ptmsc.org. Rowing and Sailing Programs • Year-round for adults and youths. Sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3853628, woodenboat.org. Woodcraft Workshops • Adult and youth classes in traditional woodcraft conducted year-round at Port Townsend School of Woodworking in Fort Worden State Park, 360-3444455, ptwoodschool.com.
April-May • Spring White Cap Series on Port Townsend Bay, sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, ptsail.org.
● ● ● Continued on page 56
ESPRESSO • SMOOTHIES • SOUPS • SANDWICHES
360-379-1292 FREE Wi-Fi!
HOMEMADE PASTRIES • BAKED GOODS • ICE CREAM
67 Oak Bay Rd., Port Hadlock in Kivley Center
Fresh, creative seafood, pasta and steak dishes. Gourmet Northwest cuisine with international flair. Nickolas Yates Sole Proprietor
’ Locals r fo e t i favor rs a e y 9 2
920 Washington Street Downtown Port Townsend just up from the Haller Fountain
Lunch and Dinner Every Day 11:30-3 and 5-9 Fri-Sat ’til 9:30-ish
New Ice Cream Memories Made Here
DR E A M C I T Y
MARKET CAFÉ Photo by David Conklin
Artisan Ice Cream hand crafted fresh healthy local
23 Kala Square Place, Port Townsend
Gourmet & Pastry Items • Espresso Lunch • Dinner to Go Serving Breakfast Saturday & Sunday Full Service Catering
627 Water Street, Port Townsend • 360-385-1156
Fine Hunan & Szechuan Cuisine prepared by Chef Lee. Chef Lee has been providing Port Townsend with the BEST Chinese food since 1986. We serve Beer, Wine & Sake in the restaurant. FREE delivery
Regional Seafood with a Beautiful View
Visit us at: www.ptshanghai.info 265 Hudson Street Port Townsend Chef Lee
11am - 10pm 7 Days a Week
Excellent Waterfront View of the Straits from Point Hudson! No MSG used • Orders to go Banquet Room available for parties. 360-385-4810 • 360-385-0660
Port Townsend’s Fine Seafood on the Waterfront
1st Place for Best Seafood
Lunch & Dinner 7 days a week
NEW! “Vietnamese Pho & Spring Rolls” Water St. Located in Historic Point Hudson Marina at the end of Water Street Washington St.
to your home hotel or RV (within city limits) $20 min.
Open Mon-Sat: 7am-6pm • Sun: 7am-2pm
Upstairs in the Flagship Landing 1019 Water St. • 360-379-FISH (3474) www.ﬁnscoastal.com
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 55
Events ● ● ● Continued from page 54
April 10 • “Our Kids: Our Business” Family Fun Day, 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. at Jefferson County Historical Society Museum, 360385-1003, jchsmuseum.org. April 10-11 • Port Townsend Antique Show, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, 360-301-4599 or intheatticproductions.com. April 10-June 10 • Community Boatbuilding Saturdays are every Saturday at 10 a.m. at the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding, 360-379-9220, nwboatschool.org. April 16-18 • “The Seagull” by Anton Chekhov, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. April 17 • Earth Day/Spring Cleanup in Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-3857911, ptmainstreet.org. April 17-18 • Northwest Wine & Cheese Tour, self-guided tour of six wineries in Port Angeles and Port Townsend sponsored by Olympic Peninsula Wineries, 800-785-5495 or olympicpeninsulawineries.org. April 18 • Chamber Music Society of Port Townsend presents a 2 p.m. concert at Quimper Unitarian Universalist Fellowship. Sponsored by the society and the Youth Music Fund, 360-385-4599, chambermusicsocietyofport townsend.org. April 22-25 • Choro: The Sweet Lament of Brazilian Music Workshop at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org. April 22-25 • “The Seagull” by Anton Chekhov, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. April 23-25 • Port Townsend Bead Market at Pope Marine Park Building in Port Townsend, 360-385-6131, wynwoods.com. April 24 • 13th Annual Kitchen Tour, sponsored by AAUW Port Townsend and UWF, 360379-1904, aauwpt.org. April 24 • Port Townsend
Community Orchestra Spring Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, porttownsendorchestra.org. April 24 • Choro: The Sweet Lament of Brazilian Music concert at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org. April 24-25 • 10th Annual JeffCo EXPO at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend. Sponsored by county fair association, 360-385-1013, jeffcofairgrounds.com. April 25 • Colorado Children’s Chorale, 3 p.m. at the Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org. April 29-30 • “The Seagull” by Anton Chekhov, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
May 1 • Opening Day on Port Townsend Bay, sail-by celebration of boating season. Hosted by Port Townsend Yacht Club and Wooden Boat Foundation, 360385-3628, woodenboat.org. May 1 • Spring Migration Cruise leaves from Point Hudson Marina. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 3855582, ext. 104; ptmsc.org. May 1 • Port Townsend Farmers Market opening day in Uptown Port Townsend. Continues each Saturday through mid-December at Tyler and Lawrence streets, 360-3799098, ptfmhome.blogspot.com. May 1 • The Chair Affair, auction to benefit K-12 arts education, part of Art Wave (see May 1-31 entry). Sponsored by PT Artscape/Port Townsend Community Consortium and Port Townsend Main Street Program, email@example.com, 360-385-7911, ptmainstreet.org. May 1 • Rothschild House and Commanding Officer’s Quarters open for the season through the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, jchsmuseum.org. May 1 • PT Shorts, sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, presents stories and poems about “Food, Glorious
Lots of colorful characters turn out for Brinnon’s ShrimpFest each year. Photo by Kathie Meyer
56 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Food,” 7:30 p.m. at Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend. May 1-2 • “The Seagull” by Anton Chekhov, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org. May 1-2 • JeffCo HomeShow at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Jefferson County Home Builders Association, 360-385-1087, jeffcohomeshow.com. May 1-31 • Art Wave – Children’s Art in the Stores, exhibit of artwork created in grades K-12. Sponsored by PT Artscape/Port Townsend Community Consortium and Port Townsend Main Street Program, firstname.lastname@example.org, 360-385-7911, ptmainstreet.org. May 2 • 18th Annual Rhody Bike Tour, metric and half-metric century, sponsored by Port Townsend Bicycle Association, ptbikes.org. May 2-7 • Water World learning experience for grades 5-6, part of the Young Artists Project and a collaboration between Centrum and the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, centrum.org. May 6-8 • “The Seagull” by Anton Chekhov, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396,
keycitypublictheatre.org. May 7 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360385-1003, jchsmuseum.org. May 8-9 • 32nd Rhododendron Arts & Crafts Fair in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-3793813, email@example.com. May 10-16 • 75th Rhododendron Festival, with weekly events, parades, carnival. Sponsored by Rhododendron Festival Association, rhodyfestival.org. May 13 • Fashion Show & Luncheon to benefit Jefferson Healthcare Hospital Auxiliary, Port Ludlow Bay Club, 360-774-6244. May 15 • Rhody Festival Grand Parade, uptown and downtown Port Townsend, rhodyfestival.org. May 15-16 • Rhody Festival Flower Show at Fort Worden State Park Chapel. Sponsored by Rhododendron Society. May 16 • Rhody Run XXXII, a 12K race beginning and ending at Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend. Sponsored
● ● ● Continued on page 58
Voted Best Breakfast 3 years in a row!
LOCALLY ROASTED ORGANIC FAIR-TRADE
Serving Breakfast & Lunch 7 Days a Week 311-B Haines Place in the Boat Haven Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-7339
LOCAL ... ORGANIC NUTRIENT-DENSE FOOD 7100AM to 6 PM Tyler St. (on the beach)
Port Townsend WA 360-385-3388
Breakfast • Sweet • Savory Available All Day Gluten & Dairy Free Crepes Available
Espresso • Free WiFi Open 7 Days 6 am-7 pm 1046 Water Street We deliver to downtown locations!
Soups • Sandwiches Salads • Quiche Cakes • Pies • Scones & More!
Cafe Vita Coffee
The ’A rin BBQ a e Joint You’ve Been H
Dos Okies BBQ
Tuesday - Sunday: 6am - 5:30pm
379-2630 • 215 Tyler St., Port Townsend
Northwest Cuisine at its finest
2310 Washington St., Port Townsend 360.385.7669 www.dosokiesbarbeque.com
Come try our famous
Happy Hour 4-6 pm
at Point Hudson
Outside Waterfront Dining • Lunch 11am - 3pm • Dinner 4 to close 141 Hudson Street, Port Townsend 360-385-0700 • www.Ts-restaurant.com
Serving breakfast and lunch for over 30 years!
Lighthouse Restaurant 955 Water St., Port Townsend
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 57
Events ● ● ● Continued from page 56
by Port Townsend Marathon Association, rhodyrun.com. May 22-24 • 5o5 Pacific Coast Championship race, Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, ptsail.org. May 28-29 • “Blood Orange Bakersfield,” a new play by Pattie Miles Van Beuzekom, at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org.
A fireworks display celebrates the Fourth of July at Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend. Skyrockets are fired from a barge anchored offshore.
May 29-30 • Brinnon ShrimpFest seafood festival includes food booths, belt sander races, exhibits, live music and children’s activities. Sponsored by Emerald Towns Alliance, 360-796-0550 or emeraldtowns.org/shrimpfest. May 29-30 • Olympic Art Festival at Olympic Art Gallery in Quilcene, 360765-0200, olympicartgallery.com. May 31 • Port Townsend Summer Band season-opener concert, 11:30 a.m. American Legion Hall, Port Townsend, ptsummerband.org.
June 1 • Fort Townsend State Park Fun Run on the trails of Fort Townsend State Park, 360-3853595, parks.wa.gov/fortworden. June 2 • Port Townsend Wednesday Farmers Market opens in Uptown Port Townsend. Continues each Wednesday
through Sept. 29 at Polk and Lawrence streets, 360-379-9098, ptfmhome.blogspot.com. June 3-5 • “Blood Orange Bakersfield,” a new play by Pattie Miles Van Beuzekom, at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org. June 4 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360385-1003, jchsmuseum.org. June 5 • PT Shorts, sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, presents “not even the rain has such small hands: poetry by e.e. cummings,” 7:30 p.m. Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend. June 5-6 • 27th Classic Mariners’ Regatta sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3863628, woodenboat.org. June 6 • Fourth Annual Fort2Fort Bicycle Ride, a supported tour of 16, 25 or 62 miles starting and ending at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Friends of Fort Worden, fort2fortride.org. June 10 • Taste of Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, ptmainstreet.org. June 10-12 • “Blood Orange Bakersfield,” a new play by Pattie Miles Van Beuzekom, at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org. June 11-July 30 • Summer Cat’s Paw Race Series, 6 p.m. on Fridays. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, ptsail.org. June 12 • Fifth Annual Peninsula Model Show & Contest, The Fantastic Sixties,” at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by North Olympic Peninsula Modelers Society, nopms.net. June 12 • Secret Garden Tour, sponsored by Jefferson County Master Gardeners, 437-8049, firstname.lastname@example.org. June 18-19 • “Blood Orange Bakersfield,” a new play by Pattie Miles Van Beuzekom, at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org. June 18-20 • “Prisoner of Second Avenue,” by Neil Simon, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. June 19 • Rat Island Regatta, human-powered boats race from Fort Worden. Sponsored by Sound
58 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Rowers, 385-0457, soundrowers.org. June 20 • North American Open Water Regatta Championship (NAOWRC), 14-mile Class 3 rowing race starting at the Northwest Maritime Center, soundrowers.org. June 24-27 • “Prisoner of Second Avenue,” by Neil Simon, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. June 25 • U.S. Air Force Band plays in the first Free Fridays at the Fort concert of the summer season, noon, on outside patio at Fort Worden State Park Commons. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org. June 26 • Seventh Annual Rakers Summer Cruz-In Car Show at Memorial Athletic Field in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Rakers Car Club, rakerscarclub.com. June 26 • PT Invitational Regatta, sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, ptsail.org. June 26 • NPR’s “Says You!” Live on Stage, 7 p.m. at Chimacum High School. Sponsored by NWPerformingArts.com, 360452-8299, saysyou.org. June 27 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, 3 p.m. Chetzemoka Park, ptsummerband.org. June 28-July 3 • Voiceworks Workshop at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360385-3102, centrum.org/voiceworks.
July 1-4 • “Prisoner of Second Avenue,” by Neil Simon, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. July 3 • Voiceworks performances at McCurdy Pavilion, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, centrum.org. July 3 • PT Shorts, sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. July 3-10 • Festival of American Fiddle Tunes Workshop at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org/fiddle. July 4 • Festival of American Fiddle Tunes performances at McCurdy Pavilion. Sponsored by Centrum, 800-838-3006, 360385-3102, centrum.org/fiddle. July 4 • Fourth at the Fort
● ● ● Continued on page 60
Voluntary Eelgrass Protection Zone WELCOME BOATERS! Historic buildings are just one precious resource in our seaport town—below the waters of Port Townsend Bay are acres of eelgrass beds. Eelgrass reduces shoreline erosion and provides critical habitat for salmon, crab and more. It’s a risky place to anchor—loose sediments provide poor anchor holding and the fragile plants are easily damaged and uprooted. The Voluntary Eelgrass Protection Zone is identified by seasonal marker buoys most of the year, but when buoys are not in place, please anchor seaward of Port Townsends’s many docks and wharfs. Anchor Out for Safety & Salmon! Shoreline Features 1. Point Hudson Marina 2. NW Maritime Center Dock 3. City Dock 4. Quincy Street Dock/ Old Ferry Terminal 5. Union Wharf 6. Swains/PT Plaza 7. WA State Ferry Terminal - avoid 500’ security zone 8. Indian Point
201 W. Patison Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-379-5610
9. Port of Port Townsend Boat Haven
Hoist a Sail. Pull an Oar. Build a Boat. All Ages Lessons - Sail Training - Charters - Family Boat Building - Tools & Hardware
Visit the Wooden Boat Shop
Wooden Boat Chandlery
N M C W B F
www.nwmaritime.org 360 385-3628 www.woodenboat.org 431 WATER STREET, PORT TOWNSEND, WASHINGTON The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 59
Events ● ● ● Continued from page 58
Celebration and Fireworks Show at Fort Worden State Park, with food, family activities, Port Townsend Summer Band concert and fireworks. Band concert at 8 p.m.; fireworks at 10:30 p.m. Sponsors include Port Townsend Sunrise Rotary and the park.
800-566-3932, ptmsc.org. July 8-11 • “Prisoner of Second Avenue,” by Neil Simon, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. July 9 • Festival of American Fiddle Tunes Public Dance at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org/fiddle. July 9-11 • Hadlock Days in downtown Port Hadlock, with lawnmower races, vendors, parade and car show, 360-8219347, hadlockdays.com.
July 5-10 • Coastal Explorers Day Camp for ages 8-12, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582,
July 11-17 • Whale Camp for ages 9-13, is a collaboration between Centrum and the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, centrum.org/whalecamp.
It’s just good fun in Port Townsend’s Uptown commercial district during the Uptown Street Fair in August. Live music, great food, a festive parade and a beer garden mark the annual event.
July 15 • Comedy Night, 8 p.m. at Key City Playhouse, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. July 15-17 • Port Townsend
Chamber Music Festival performances, sponsored by Centrum, 360-3853102, centrum.org. July 15-18 • GWRRA Washington District Rally, self-guided touring, bike games, show and shine, and light parade. Sponsored by Honda Goldwing Road Rider Association at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, gwrra-wa.org. July 18-25 • Port Townsend Writers’ Conference, with free public readings and lectures at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org/writing. July 25-Aug. 1 • Jazz Port Townsend Workshop at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org/jazz. July 22-24 • Jazz Port Townsend performances at McCurdy Pavilion and local clubs. Sponsored by Centrum, 360385-3102, centrum.org/jazz. July 23-24 • Port Ludlow Artists’ League Art Walk at Port Ludlow Village Center, 360-437-8218. July 24 • Children’s Hospital Auxiliary Walkathon in Port Ludlow, 360-437-0216. July 24-25 • Relay for Life, a community event to raise money for cancer research, at Blue Heron Middle School track, 360-3792127, email@example.com. July 25 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, 3 p.m. at Chetzemoka Park, ptsummerband.org. July 25 • Music on the Green with Black Swan Classic Jazz Band performing Dixieland, jazz, ragtime, gospel; and Stickshift Annie with Kimball & The Fugitives performing blues and jazz on the Bay Club lawn. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org. July 26-30 • History Camps at the Commanding Officer’s Quarters at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society. July 29 • Blues Barbecue and Dance, on Littlefield Green, Fort Worden State Park. Associated with Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival, sponsored by Centrum, 800-838-3006, 360-385-3102, ext. 110, centrum.org/blues. July 30-31 • Summer Sampler: Readings of Honorable Mention One-Act Plays, produced by
60 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. July 31-Aug. 1 • Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival performances at McCurdy Pavilion and local clubs. Sponsored by Centrum, 800-838-3006, 360-3853102, ext. 110; centrum.org/blues. July 31-Aug.1 • Port Ludlow Days, with activities, including arts and crafts, music and food. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Village Council, plvc.org.
Aug. 1-8 • Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival Workshop at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org/blues. Aug. 2-6 • Junior Explorers Day Camp, for ages 5-7. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-566-3932, ptmsc.org. Aug. 6 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360385-1003, jchsmuseum.org. Aug. 6-8 • “The Tempest,” a Shakespeare in the Park production by Key City Public Theatre at Chetzemoka Park, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Aug. 6-27 • Dog Days Race, 6 p.m. on Fridays. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, ptsail.org. Aug. 7 • PT Shorts, sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre. Starts at 7:30 p.m. at Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend. Aug. 7-29 • Art Port Townsend Juried Art Show, sponsored by Northwind Arts Alliance and Port Townsend Arts Commission, 360437-9579, artporttownsend.org. Aug. 8-14 • High School Summer Arts Camp for grades 9-12. Sponsored by Centrum, centrum.org/youth. Aug. 8-14 • DANCE This at Centrum for high school students at Fort Worden State Park, centrum.org/youth. Aug. 9-13 • Marine Biology Day Camp for ages 9-13. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-566-3932, ptmsc.org.
● ● ● Continued on page 62
The Northwest’s Most Idyllic
Chamber Music Festival! Every Saturday & Sunday
July 3 - August 22, 2010 Call (360) 732-4800 or Visit us at:
www.olympicmusicfestival.org Baha’i Faith
“Love ye all religions and all races with a love that is true and sincere and show that love through deeds.”
–Abdu’l-Bahá 1-800-22-UNITE • www.usbahai.org Children’s classes - 385-0157 Jr. Youth classes - 379-4936
Beacon Light Center of the Assemblies of God
1820 Irondale Road, Port Hadlock PO Box 134, Chimacum, WA 98325 360-301-3356 Pastors: R. Wolff & N. Wolff Service Times: Sunday, 10am and 6pm Wednesday, 7pm: Prayer Sunday, 10am: Children’s Classes
PO Box 1843, Port Townsend, WA 360-379-3042, firstname.lastname@example.org
First Baptist Church
Loving God & Loving Port Townsend. 1202 Lawrence St. (Uptown) 385-2752, email@example.com Pastor Skip Cadorette A relaxed come-as-you-are, blend of contemporary and traditional music, prayer and honest Biblical teaching, nursery care provided. Sunday Worship: 9:30am. Sunday, 10:45am: Classes for kids and youth; sermon discussion and coffee hour for adults.
First Church of Christ, Scientist, Port Townsend
religious organizations spirit of Christ. Loving generously, serving selflessly, living justly.
Dennis LaMance, Pastor Sunday Adult Christian Education: 9am Sunday Worship: 10:30am Nursery/Pre1111 Franklin Street, Port Townsend • 385-2525 School available 10:30am Website: www.fpcpt.org. Alternate Tuesdays: Home Studies Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Thursday, 10am: Women’s Bible Study Pastor: Rev. Robert E. Slater, D. Min. Fall through Spring: 8:15am & 11am Worship Jan. 31 - 6:30pm. Port Ludlow Community Church’s 5th Sunday Productions. & Children’s Church. Professional nursery care provided throughout the morning. Quakers
Grace Christian Center
Solid, Spirit-filled Bible teaching. “Loving Jesus and loving each other.” Meeting at 200 Olympic Place (Port Ludlow Conference Center) 821-9680 Kevin Hunter, ThD 821-9684 Pastor Sherri Barden, PhD 821-9684 Karl Barden www.gracechristiancenter.us Sunday service: 10am Wednesday, 6:30pm: Grace Gathering
Grace Lutheran Church ELCA 1120 Walker St., Port Townsend 385-1595, www.GraceLutheran.us Elizabeth A. Orling, Interim Pastor Sundays, 9:10am: Christian Education for Children & the Adult Forum; 10:30am; Worship with Holy Communion. Mondays, 10am: Quilting for Lutheran World Relief Wednesdays, 10am: Bible Study on next week’s texts Fridays, 6:30am: Bible & Breakfast for Men at the Bayview Café For current schedules and information please call or check our website at www.GraceLutheran.us. Visitors welcome!
Church and Sunday School are at 275 Umatilla Ave., near Discovery and San Juan, 531-2719. Sunday services 10 am Wednesday noon: testimony meetings Reading Room is downtown at 633 Water St., 379-1139. Open 11am-3pm daily except Wed. Port Ludlow Community Church and Sun. Where Everybody is Somebody and Jesus is Lord. First Presbyterian Church 9534 Oak Bay Road, Port Ludlow 437-0145, email: email@example.com We are a welcoming community, sharing the
Religious Society of Friends 385-7070 • www.quaker.org/port-townsend Meet at PT Community Center, corner of Lawrence and Tyler Sts. Sundays, 9:30am: Worship with singing 10am: Silent worship
Saint Paul’s Episcopal Church
Plus home Bible studies & special events. All welcome.
St. Mary Star of the Sea Catholic Church
One of the oldest Catholic Churches in the Pacific Northwest 1335 Blaine St. (Corner of Harrison and Blaine), 385-3700, firstname.lastname@example.org Rev.John Topel, S.J. Pastor Mass Schedule Saturday, 9am: Hispanic Mass ; 5:30pm, Vigil Mass Sunday, 8:15am and 10:45am Monday, Thursday, Friday, 12:05pm Wednesday, 6:30pm Communion Service, Tuesday 12:05pm Confession one half hour before mass. Children and adult religious education programs.
Trinity United Methodist Church
In historic Port Townsend – worship with us in We are a friendly, welcoming, caring Washington’s oldest Episcopal church building in congregation. continuous use. www.stpaulspt.org Gospel choir, child care available and handicap Corner of Jefferson & Tyler, 385-0770 The Rev. Elizabeth A Bloch, Rector Sunday: 8 & 10am Holy Eucharist 10am Children’s Program (nursery available) Wednesday, 10am: Holy Eucharist & Healing Service “We welcome everyone without exception to God’s table.”
San Juan Baptist Church
The Church on Discovery & home of the R.O.C.K. San Juan Baptist Church (SBC) is a warm, Bible-believing fellowship of folks who care about YOU!
385-2545 • www.sanjuanbaptist.org 1704 Discovery Rd., Port Townsend Jon Beard, Interim Pastor Dave Knowles, Music & Youth Pastor Sundays: 9:15am, Sunday School for all ages; 10:30am, Worship Service (childcare provided); 5pm, Bible Study & Prayer Group. Wednesdays: 7:00pm, Youth Group.
accessible. Everyone is welcome to all services. Come hear our 19th century tracker pipe organ. 609 Taylor Street, Port Townsend www.trinityumcpt.org Rev. Wendell Ankeny: 385-0484 Sunday Service: 10am
Unitarian Universalist A Welcoming Congregation
Quimper UU Fellowship 2333 San Juan Avenue, 379-0609 email@example.com, www.quuf.org Sunday Services & Religious Education 9:15am & 11:15am
Authentic Transformative Spiritual Community 385-6519, www.unity.org Masonic Hall, Jefferson & Van Buren The Divine Path 2010: World Traditions Rev. Pamela Douglas-Smith Sundays, 11am: Inspirational Service & Children’s Circle
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 61
George Marine Works and Moe Boat Works, moeboatworks.com.
sponsored by Port Townsend Kiwanis Club, 360-385-0706.
● ● ● Continued from page 60
Aug. 16-21 • Whale Camp for ages 12-14, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center and Centrum, ptmsc.org, centrum.org/youth.
Aug. 13-15 “The Tempest,” a Shakespeare in the Park production by Key City Public Theatre at Chetzemoka Park, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
Aug. 20-22 • “The Tempest,” a Shakespeare in the Park production by Key City Public Theatre at Chetzemoka Park, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
Aug. 21-22 • Art Port Townsend Artist Studio Tour. Art studios open to the public on free, self-guided tour. Sponsored by Northwind Arts Alliance, 360-3790859, artporttownsend.org.
Aug. 13-15 • “Boyce & Melinda Peterson’s Financial Strategies for a Post-Money World,” a premiere musical by Gip Hoppe and Chandler Travis, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
Aug. 20-22 • “Boyce & Melinda Peterson’s Financial Strategies for a Post-Money World,” a premiere musical by Gip Hoppe and Chandler Travis, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
TBA • Port Townsend Family Portrait, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, ptmainstreet.org.
Aug. 21 • Uptown Street Fair, sponsored by Uptown merchants, with parade, music, food, ptmainstreet.org.
Aug. 13-15 • 73rd Jefferson County Fair at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend. Sponsored by county fair association, 360-3851013, jeffcofairgrounds.com.
Aug. 21 • Uptown Street Fair Craft Show sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild and Uptown merchants, 360-3793813, firstname.lastname@example.org.
Aug. 13-15 • Classic Cutter Rendezvous, hosted by Cape
Aug. 21 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, 11 a.m., Port Townsend Community Center lawn for Uptown Fair, ptsummerband.org.
Aye, matey! Pirates get serious during Port Townsend’s annual Wooden Boat Festival each September. Photo by Melanie Lockhart
Aug. 21 • 21st Annual Kiwanis Classic Car Show at Memorial Field in downtown Port Townsend,
62 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Aug. 27-29 • “Boyce & Melinda Peterson’s Financial Strategies for a Post-Money World,” a premiere musical by Gip Hoppe and Chandler Travis, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Aug. 28 • “The Three Sisters” by Anton Chekhov, outdoors at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-6433493, theparadisetheatreschool.org. Aug. 28 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, at 3 p.m. at Fort Flagler State Park, ptsummerband.org.
Sept. 4 • Smithsonian Exhibit opens to public, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, jchsmuseum.org. Sept. 4-6 • ParTy in PT/ Sizzling Sidewalk Summer Sale sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-3857911, ptmainstreet.org. Sept. 10-12 • 34th Wooden Boat Festival at Point Hudson, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, woodenboat.org. Sept. 11-12 • Crafts by the Dock in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-379-3813, email@example.com. Sept. 18 • “Swingin’ Vegas is Back,” starring Nancy Osborne and Ned Rifken, 8 p.m. at the Port Ludlow Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org.
Aug. 29 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, at 3 p.m. at Chetzemoka Park; annual potluck picnic follows; ptsummerband.org.
Sept. 18 • Quilcene Community Fair and Parade, with carnival, music, arts and crafts and sportsman show. Sponsored by Quilcene Fair Board, 360-765-3361, quilcene.com.
Sept. 18 • South County Classic Cruisers Car Show in Quilcene, 360-765-3250.
Sept. 4 • PT Shorts, sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, at 7:30 p.m. Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend.
Sept. 19 • Lost in the Woods Mountain Bike Race at Anderson Lake State Park,
firstname.lastname@example.org. Sept. 19 • Annual Farm Tour & Harvest Celebration, sponsored by WSU Jefferson County Extension, 360-379-5610, ext. 200, jefferson.wsu.edu. Sept. 19-Oct. 24 • Fall Night Cap Series, sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, ptsail.org. Sept. 24-26 • 11th Annual Port Townsend Film Festival, “a film lover’s block party,” 360379-1333, ptfilmfest.com. TBA • West Coast Sea Kayak Symposium at Fort Worden State Park, 360-672-1747, wcsks.org.
Oct. 1 • First Friday Lecture,
sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360385-1003, jchsmuseum.org.
of Tin Pan Alley,” produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
of Tin Pan Alley,” produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
Oct. 1-2 • 28th Annual Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Skulpture Race, sponsored by Port Townsend Kinetic Konsortium, 360-379-4972, ptkineticrace.info.
Oct. 15-17 • “Musical Cabaret: Here’s to the Ladies! The Women of Tin Pan Alley.” See preceding entry.
Oct. 24 • Quartango plays tango, jazz, opera, waltz and jigs, beginning at 3 p.m. at the Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org.
Oct. 2 • PT Shorts, sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, at 7:30 p.m. Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend.
Oct. 16 • Centrum Gala Dinner and Auction, 800-838-3006, 360-3853102, ext. 116, email@example.com. Oct. 21 • Comedy Night, 8 p.m. at Key City Playhouse, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
Oct. 7 • Girls Night Out in downtown Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-3857911, ptmainstreet.org.
TBA • Hauntownsend “Carnival of the Twilight” at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, hauntownsend. com, theexproject.com.
Oct. 8-10 • “Musical Cabaret: Here’s to the Ladies! The Women
Oct. 22-24 • “Musical Cabaret: Here’s to the Ladies! The Women
• 35 rooms • Suite available • Handicap rooms available • Queen beds • Fully air conditioned • NEW 37” Flat screen TVs • Microwaves • In-room coffee • Wireless Internet • Refrigerators • On-site laundromat • Next door to the In Place Restaurant
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Marina on one side . . . Heated pool on the other! Spectacular views on the waterfront.
330 Benedict St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 • 100% Non-Smoking
Oct. 31 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra
● ● ● Continued on page 64
BAYSHORE MOTEL 306142 US Hwy 101
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For reservations and information call 1-800-235-7344 Forks area: (360) 374-9400 P.O. Box 1997 • 352 Forks Ave. Forks, Washington 98331
Oct. 31 • Downtown Trick or Treat in Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, ptmainstreet.org.
twilight themed rooms available
Oct. 29-30 • “A Simple Thing” by Maggie Brown at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org.
63 rooms that feature: PRIVATE PATIO OVERLOOKING WATERFRONT COMPLIMENTARY CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST CONFERENCE, MEETING ROOM REFRIGERATORS, MICROWAVES, CABLE TV NEWER, QUIET, CLEAN ACCOMMODATIONS FREE WIFI
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 63
Events ● ● ● Continued from page 63
Fall Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, porttownsendorchestra.org.
in Port Townsend. Sponsored by county fair association, 360-3851013, jeffcofairgrounds.com. Nov. 6-7 • Port Townsend Woodworkers Show in downtown Port Townsend, 360440-7660, splintergroup.org. Nov. 11 • Veterans Day Ceremony at American Legion Post 26, with performance by Port Townsend Summer Band, ptsummerband.org.
Nov. 4-6 • “A Simple Thing” by Maggie Brown at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org.
Nov. 11-12 • WordPlay Reading Series, “Intimate Exchanges, Volume I,” produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
Nov. 5 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360385-1003, jchsmuseum.org.
Nov. 11-13 • “A Simple Thing” by Maggie Brown at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org.
Nov. 6 • PT Shorts, sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, at 7:30 p.m., Pope Marine Park Building, Port Townsend.
Nov. 12-14 • West End Weekend, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360385-1003, jchsmuseum.org.
3813, firstname.lastname@example.org. TBA • Port Townsend Marine Science Center Gift Shop Sale and fish printing, on the pier at Fort Worden State Park, 360-385-5582, ptmsc.org. Nov. 27 • Merchants’ Holiday Open House in downtown Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, ptmainstreet.org.
Dec. 2-5 “Holiday Sampler – The Little Match Girl,” by Hans Christian Andersen. Produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Dec. 4 • Community Treelighting & Parade with Santa in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, ptmainstreet.org.
Nov. 6-7 • Seventh Annual Holiday Fair at Jefferson County Fairgrounds
Nov. 19-20 • “A Simple Thing” by Maggie Brown at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-643-3493, theparadisetheatreschool.org.
Dec. 5 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Holiday Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, porttownsendorchestra.org.
The annual Sea Kayak Symposium is a great way to test out the boat of your dreams. Exhibitors line the beach and test drives are encouraged.
Nov. 26-27 • Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair at Port Townsend Community Center. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-379-
TBA • Victorian Candlelight Christmas Tour of Homes, sponsored by the Victorian Society in America-
64 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Northwest Chapter, 379-2847, victoriansociety-northwest.org. TBA • Chimacum Arts & Crafts Fair at Chimacum High School, in support of school activities, 360-732-4015, olympus.net/ community/chimacumarts-craft. Dec. 9-11 • “Holiday Sampler – The Eight: Reindeer Monologues,” by Jeff Goode. Produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Dec. 9-12 • “Jalopies,” written and performed by Mark Cherniak, at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-6433493, theparadisetheatreschool.org. Dec. 11-12 • “Holiday Sampler – The Little Match Girl,” by Hans Christian Andersen, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Dec. 12 • “A Broadway Christmas” features crooner Dean Regan in shows at 3 and 7 p.m. at the Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org. Dec. 14-15 • “Holiday Sampler – Seven Poor Travelers,” adapted from Charles Dickens by Charles Bethel, produced by Key City
● ● ● Continued on page 66
• Beach walk right out your door and walking distance to ferry and downtown • Romantic setting of "An Officer and a Gentleman" movie • Breathtaking view of bay and mountains with 500 sf of living space • Available amenities include: fireplace, Jacuzzi, in-room coffee, TV, air conditioning and complimentary continental breakfast
port townsend inn
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IN NEAH BAY • Sit in a cedar longhouse, hear the songs, the drumming • Learn about Makah culture through hundreds of artifacts from ancient Ozette Village • See replicas of whaling & sealing canoes
The Makah MUSEUM
1807 Water Street Port Townsend
Step Back in Time
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Palace Hotel : Relax in Plush Victorian Comfort
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2 Blocks from Ferry in Historic Downtown 1004 Water Street Port Townsend WA 98368 email: email@example.com/www.palacehotelpt.com
 962-0741 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 65
● ● ● Continued from page 64
Dec. 31 • New Year’s Eve Cruise views wildlife at Protection Island. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-3855582, 800-566-3932, ptmsc.org.
Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
Dec. 16-19 • “Jalopies,” written and performed by Mark Cherniak, at the Paradise Theatre School, 360-6433493, theparadisetheatreschool.org. Dec. 16-19 • “Holiday Sampler – The Eight: Reindeer Monologues,” by Jeff Goode, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Dec. 21-22 • “Holiday Sampler – Seven Poor Travelers,” adapted from Charles Dickens by Charles Bethel, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org. Dec. 31 • First Night Celebration, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-
Girls and their horses are always in evidence when Quilcene turns out each year for its community fair.
musicians at 8 p.m. at the Port Ludlow Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org. TBA • 15th Annual Playwrights’ Festival, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, keycitypublictheatre.org.
TBA • Sixth Annual Strange Brewfest at Water Street Brewing in Port Townsend, waterstreetbrewing.com.
TBA • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Winter Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, porttownsendorchestra.org.
Jan. 15 • The Colin Ross Trio, with guitarist-vocalist Mig O’Hara, presents original music, jazz standards and blues classics, beginning at 4 p.m. at the Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org.
TBA • 25th Annual Stars of Tomorrow youth talent show at Port Townsend High School auditorium, 360-379-0520.
TBA • 20th Annual Shipwrights’ Regatta, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3853628, woodenboat.org. Feb. 18-20 • Discovery Bay Salmon Derby, sponsored by Discovery Bay Volunteer Fire District 5 in Gardiner, 360-797-7710, discobaysalmonderby.com. Feb. 26 • Barston String Quartet performs with Seattle Symphony
66 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
March 1-31 • Port Townsend Public Library Community Read: Community members read the same book; includes discussion groups, speakers and readings, 360-385-3181, cityofpt.us/library.
March 18 • Clockwork jazz vocal ensemble performs jazz standards, bebop and blues, at 8 p.m. at the Port Ludlow Bay Club, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org. TBA • Victorian Festival, sponsored by Victorian Society in America – Northwest Chapter,
victorianfestival.org. TBA • 29th Annual Fort Worden Kitemakers Conference at Fort Worden State Park, kitemakers.org
April 2011 April-May • Spring White Cap Series on Port Townsend Bay. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, ptsail.org. April 1 • “Too Marvelous for Words: The Songs of Johnny Mercer,” with Lee Lessack and Linda Purl, at 8 p.m. at the Port Ludlow Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, plvc.org. TBA • Children’s Festival of Art, sponsored by Youth Arts Council, 360-385-0655. TBA • Earth Day Spring Cleanup in downtown and uptown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, ptmainstreet.org. TBA • Maritime Swap Meet, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3853628, woodenboat.org. TBA • Sea Dogs’ Regatta, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3853628, woodenboat.org.
Get clean, patched up, find your way Oh dear, there’s so much to do here, you might just get dirty, get winded and lose Spot, who jumped out of your car for a beach getaway himself. There are places to go in Jefferson County for help with all the unexpected boo-boos that crop up on a day or week retreat from the real world. In case you have a mishap, here are a few tips to smooth out your experience. Clean it off Self-service laundries can be found in Port Townsend and Port Hadlock. Port Townsend Laundromat and Car Wash is at 2115 Sims Way. Carol’s Laundromat is at 2334 Washington St. Port Townsend Hospitality is in Fort Worden State Park.
And Port Hadlock Speed Wash and Dry Cleaning is at 1840 Irondale Road. Fill it up There are several pharmacies in Jefferson County, including QFC (Quality Food Center) in Port Hadlock, 1890 Irondale Road, 360-385-1900; Safeway Food & Drug in Port Townsend, 442 W. Sims Way, 360-385-2860; and Don’s Pharmacy in Port Townsend, 1151 Water St., 360-385-2622. Take care of yourself Jefferson Healthcare is the only hospital in Jefferson County, and it offers an emergency services department onsite at 834 Sheridan St. in Port Townsend. There also is an Express Care, akin to an urgent care facility, within the
hospital, for medical issues that are not life threatening. Hours for Express Care are 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Madrona Hill Urgent Care is at 2500 Sims Way, Suite 1. Hours are 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday, and 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. Call 360-344-3663. Port Hadlock Medical Center is at 121 Oak Bay Road in the Kivley Center in Port Hadlock. Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday through Friday, the clinic offers both primary care and urgent care. Call 360-379-6737. Take care of others In the event of an emergency of any kind, call 911. If you lose something, check with the Jefferson County Sheriff’s Office, 79 Elkins Road, Port Hadlock; call 360-385-3831. Tip: Leave items of value in your trunk or keep them with you. The Washington State Patrol does not have an office
If your dog goes missing, check with the Jefferson County animal shelter to see if he ended up there.
in Jefferson County, but it does have a station in Discovery Bay that is not a service center. Call toll-free, 800-283-7808. The City of Port Townsend Police Department is at 1925 Blaine St.; call 360-385-2322. Find Fido or Fluffy Jefferson County Animal Services is at 112 Critter Lane in Port Townsend; call 360-3853292. Leave a message with a description of your lost pet and how you can be reached. The shelter also takes stray cats. If you get lonely on your vacation, stop by and adopt! If you see an injured animal, call for information on how to find help. Vacations should be worry free, but just in case you suffer some kind of injury, there are a number of clinics around the county ready to help you. Above are the doors to the emergency room at Jefferson Healthcare Hospital in Port Townsend.
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 67
Fun for kids: Play, swim, boat, explore and sailing and rowing. True, there are some wonderful indoor activities, with music, dance, art and even Diego Garcia picked up a good read, but if you are long sticks and collected some traveling through the Olympic grass on the beach behind Peninsula, being outside with Boat Haven in Port Townsend nature is what’s happening. one day, while his mother, There are a few exceptions. Lorena Murray, took a moOne exception is the Port ment to stretch and exercise. Keeping children entertained Townsend Marine Science Center (PTMSC), which is easy in Jefferson County. is located at Fort Worden Garcia thinks so. Asked State Park. It’s probably what he likes to do, the the best place to start to get youth clutched his wooden acquainted with the natural booty and said, “Go to wonders of the peninsula. parks. Hundreds of them.” The center is housed in a Jefferson County is small building at 532 Battery a place where No Child Way, down by the water, and Should Be Left Inside. has nice educational exhibits. There’s so much to do There also are aquaria, touch on the Olympic Peninsula – pools and a hands-on exhibit from walking and hiking to across from the main center beachcombing and swimming at the end of the pier. PTMSC – and then there are fishing is a must-see for kids of any age. The center also offers camps, lectures and programs Port Townsend’s skate park can provide By Allison Arthur of the Leader
hours of fun.
68 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
for all ages. Visit ptmsc. org or call 360-379-1523. Beach, history, camping, exploring: While you are at Fort Worden State Park, explore. The 434-acre park has two miles of shoreline and is rich
Diego Garcia, 3, of Port Townsend is learning the art of beachcombing. He found some good sticks he has plans for, and he also discovered a “surf board,” which he’s saving to use in better weather. Photo by Allison Arthur
with history and creativity. It’s a great place to fly a kite, fish, swim, beachcomb, bird watch or picnic. And how about marshmallows over an open fire? Kayaks and bikes are available for rent, and there are several museums to explore. But grab a flashlight and take the kids to the fort’s old bunkers first, so they’ll want to learn more. Check out Passport to Fun by calling 360-344-4431. Read all about it: If it’s raining or dreary outside, do check out the libraries. In Port Townsend, teen writers meet every Friday at the Charles Pink House, 1256 Lawrence St. from 3 to 4 p.m. during the school year. Drop-
ins are welcome. There also are story times for babies and toddlers, as well as a family story hour the second Saturday of the month. Call 360-385-3181 or check out firstname.lastname@example.org. The Jefferson County Library is at 620 Cedar Ave. in Port Hadlock. Call 360385-6544 or visit jclibrary. info for information on story times and other offerings. Indoor pool: Sun gone? Still need to swim? Take note that there is an indoor pool owned by the City of Port Townsend at Mountain View, 1919 Blaine St. Call 360-385-7665. A non-resident single-day pass for kids 3 and younger is $2.50, and for ages 4 to 17, it’s $4. Playgrounds and parks: Don’t forget that school playgrounds also are open for public use. Blue Heron Middle School has an all-weather track for those who need to keep their feet moving. One sweet pocket park in downtown Port Townsend is located on the waterfront next to Elevated Ice Cream Co. & Candy Shop at 631 Water St. Grab an ice cream cone and then head over to An indoor pool is operated by the City of Port Townsend, and is always a hit with kids.
play at the Pope Marine Park. It’s across from City Hall. The park includes a feature officials call the Tidal Clock and locals call the Tidy Bowl. Chetzemoka Park is also a beautiful park. It includes tire swings and a nice swing more appropriate for old sweethearts, perhaps. Look for a path leading down to the beach. Check out city parks by going to cityofpt.us and looking under the Visitors section. Skate park: For those who have brought their skate board and helmet, and need a skate fix, the Port Townsend Skate Park, at the corner of Monroe and Tyler streets, is a gem, and it’s right downtown. It has what skateboarders call “deep bowls.” There’s also a portable toilet and drinking fountain. The park opens at 8 a.m. Find some nice photos of this venue at northwestskater.com. Quilcene Bay: One of Diego’s favorite places to swim in Jefferson County is a bit of a drive to get to, but the water is shallow and warm, unlike the ocean waves that smack at the shores in Port Townsend. Quilcene Bay is where Diego and his mother visit in the summer. Head to Quilcene and just off Center Road, take East Quilcene Road.
Choose your pleasure ... The Historic Bishop Victorian Hotel
Whether traveling for business or pleasure you will enjoy the warm hospitality and casual elegance of a stay at the Bishop Victorian Hotel, Port Townsend’s only AAA Three Diamond Hotel. Our one and two bedroom suites have private baths, ﬁreplaces, water views, special multi-night stay packages, games, puzzles, books, complimentary continental breakfast, privileges at The Athletic Club and more. Families, couples or single adults will experience a unique setting while visiting Historic Downtown Port Townsend, the Olympic Peninsula and staying at The Bishop. We are also able to help you plan memorable culinary or eco-tourism activities.Your dog is also welcome in designated suites with pet rules and fee(s). Free DSL Internet access in each suite, and wireless in our lobby. Listed in “Best Places Northwest”
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The Swan Hotel & Cottages Come by car, by boat, bicycle or motorcycle, the Swan Hotel is perfect for the single traveler in search of outdoor adventure or couples seeking a romantic getaway. Studios are outﬁtted with simple yet comfortable furnishings, private baths, mini fridges, microwaves, coffee makers, health club privileges and decks with city or marina views. The cozy cottages have the added amenities of ﬁreplaces and jetted tubs. Our two story penthouse with dramatic view decks, rooftop crow’s nest and full kitchen is perfect for family or business groups seeking a comfortable environment and a home base from which to explore the Olympic Peninsula. Free DSL Internet access in all rooms!!!
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Make your reservation online! www.rainshadowproperties.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 69
Mountains to sea:
North Olympic Peninsula offers amazing variety The North Olympic Peninsula offers plenty of day-trip options and lots of sights to see. If you are traveling to Olympic National Park or Victoria, make Sequim and Port Angeles part of your destination schedule. Sequim Take a look around and you’ll find that the little town 25 miles west of Port Townsend and 17 miles east of Port Angeles offers more than fresh lavender, fresh crab and a side order of big-box stores such as Costco and Walmart. Step out for a day in downtown Sequim and discover darling boutiques and one-of-a-kind shops just a hop, skip and a jump away from those big-brand name stores. And well-loved restaurants such as The Three Crabs and Hi-Way 101 Diner. And the sun. The 6,000 people who live in Sequim – and some 20,000 in the valley – bask in a climate that is likened to that of France because it’s in the rain shadow
of the Olympic Mountains. People who have lived in Sequim all their lives say they entertain guests from afar or even near by taking them to the Dungeness River Audubon Center, the Olympic Game Farm, Dungeness Spit and the lavender farms. And no visit is complete without a jaunt to the Olympic Discovery Trail. Olympic Game Farm The Olympic Game Farm offers a chance for young ones to get up close and personal with wildlife, including buffalo and bear. There’s a free petting barn, but a fee is charged to take a driving tour and see animals in their own environment. Call 800-778A bridge on the Olympic Discovery Trail carries only bikers and pedestrians these days. 4295 or visit The trail is an extremely popular spot for people looking to stretch their legs. olygamefarm.com. Birds and nature The Dungeness River Audubon Center at Railroad Bridge Park is a must-visit spot, with its historic bridge, natural history exhibits and hands-on programs created by a partnership of the Audubon
Society and Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe. It’s about two miles west of Sequim. Don’t miss the BirdFest in April. Call 360-681-4076 or visit dungenessrivercenter.org. Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge If you come to Sequim early and want to experience nature at its best, head out past Sequim on Highway 101, take a right at KitchenVisitors should not miss the Dungeness River Audubon Center. It features natural history exhibits and hands-on programs created by a partnership of the Audubon Society and Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe.
70 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Dick Road, and go north to the Dungeness refuge. Seriously, this is a breathtaking area. That’s all there is to say about the preserve that President Woodrow Wilson established in 1915. It encompasses 636 acres, including one of the world’s longest natural sand spits. Port Angeles If you’re a fan of the Twilight book series, check out Bella Italia restaurant, just a few doors down First Street. And where else on the Olympic Peninsula can you get Indian food? ● ● ● Continued on page 72
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 71
North Olympic Peninsula ● ● ● Continued from page 70
India Oven, on Lincoln Street, has a good buffet.
In the same building, there’s tasty Thai food at Thai Peppers. And two
blocks up on First Street, Dynasty makes some of the best chow fun (wide noodles) in the Northwest. Wineries On Highway 101, nine miles east of downtown, you’ll find Olympic Cellars in a picturesque barn. Owners Molly Rivard and Kathy Charlton call it “Washington’s Working Girl Boutique Winery.” Within three to five miles of downtown are Black Diamond Winery at 2976 Black Diamond Road, Camaraderie Cellars at 334 Benson Road, and Harbinger Winery at 2358 Highway 101 West, near the Chevy dealership. Art People who live in Port Townsend might be surprised to see just how much public art The Clallam County Historical Society’s museum gives the background on the four lighthouses that line the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Port Angeles has. You could plan a whole day trip around art. The jewel is the Port Angeles Fine Arts Center at 1203 E. Lauridsen Blvd. Park in the lot by the end of Ninth Street for easy access to the gallery and five acres of sculpture garden known as Webster’s Woods. It provides the best view of the waterfront, by the way. Admission is free, but donations keep the place open. From May to October, “art rangers” lead tours on first Saturdays at 10 a.m. and third Wednesdays at 2 p.m. Downtown Port Angeles has quite a bit of sidewalk sculpture. Artwalks are offered on the second Saturday of the month at 11 a.m.; meet at the atrium of The Landing, at the waterfront. One of the more popular downtown works of art is the mural of the ferry Kalakala by Port Townsend artist Cory Ench, on the back of the Bank of America building. Also check out Studio Bob at 118½ Front Street and Waterfront Art Gallery in The Landing. For local drama and music, consider the Port Angeles Symphony (portangelessym-
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72 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
phony.org), Port Angeles Light Opera Association (paloa.org) and Port Angeles Community Players (pacommunityplayers.com).
The Port Angeles Fine Arts Center includes a sculpture garden on its grounds.
22 and runs on Friday through Monday until June 26, when it runs seven days each Sail to Victoria week. From May 24 through You can visit Victoria July 18, it has two round by sailing on the Coho trips daily. Reservations are or the Victoria Express, available at 360-452-8088 which operate side by and victoriaexpress.com. side at The Landing. There are several nearby Coho takes vehicles and parking lots with nominal walk-on passengers. From fees. Getting on a boat in peak March 7 through May 14, times is a lot easier if you’re there are two round trips daily. not tied to a vehicle, and getFrom May 14 through Sept. ting around Victoria doesn’t 24, there are three round trips, really require your own car. and more on some weekends. You can bring bikes on both Reservations and other inforCoho and Victoria Express. mation are available at 360Note that a passport or “en457-4491 and cohoferry.com. hanced” driver’s license is reVictoria Express is for pasquired to cross the border, and sengers only, but it crosses in felons are usually not allowed 55 minutes versus 90 min(DUIs are a felony in Canada). utes for Coho. The Victoria ● ● ● Continued on page 74 Express season begins May
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North Olympic peninsula ● ● ● Continued from page 73
Biking Bring your bike to Port Angeles. In fact, you can bike to Port Angeles on the Olympic Discovery Trail. Although the trail does not yet extend to Port Townsend, you can get on it near the Tribal Arts Center in Blyn, or park in downtown Sequim and pedal on over. It’s about 20 miles by bike from Sequim to Port Angeles. For the most part, it’s flat and easy, often paralleling local roads. As you near the Port Angeles waterfront, you can sense the Strait of San Juan de Fuca before you see it, and the trail takes you right downtown.
Hurricane Ridge Road. It’s 24 miles to Hurricane Ridge from downtown. Chains are required through May 1, and it’s a winding, narrow road. Call 360-565-3131 or
Local history The Clallam County Historical Society’s museum at the Carnegie is open from 1 to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday at 207 S. Lincoln. You’ll learn about “Strong People, the Faces of Clallam County,” starting with the Lower Elwha S’Klallam Tribe. President Lincoln approved Port Angeles as a town site in 1862, but it was mostly a military reservation until claim jumpers got impatient in 1890. Olympic National Park To reach the Olympic National Park visitor center, take Race Street south from Highway 101 until it becomes Trails abound in the Olympic Mountains, but hikers are urged to take simple safety precautions before heading out on their hike. Dress right, bring water and tell people where you are going. 74 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
visit nps.gov/olym for road closure and other information on Olympic National Park. A webcam shows the everchanging weather at Hurricane Ridge, which can be dicey. But Olympic National
Park is so much more than Hurricane Ridge. Lake Crescent is just 20 miles from Port Angeles. Even if you can’t spend the night at Lake Crescent Lodge, stop in for lunch or dinner and a stroll around the shore. Marymere Falls, East Beach and Devil’s Punchbowl are all nearby.
Feiro Marine Life Center
“The go-to place on the north Olympic Peninsula for marine education – helping people see beneath the surface and become stewards of our shared marine environment.”
“Located on the City Pier in Port Angeles” 315 N. Lincoln Street, Port Angeles, WA 98362 360-417-6254 • www.feiromarinelifecenter.org
Your Naturally Good Food Market
A Unique Shopping Experience!
814 South “C” Street, Port Angeles
Pizza by the slice!
261461 Hwy 101 W., Sequim (360) 683-8003
We have the finest selection of
Fly Fishing Equipment Fly Tying Materials Custom Flies Mail Order Classes & Rentals Year ’round Guide Service
Serving Port Townsend & Jefferson County since 1889
Waters West 226 Adams Street, Port Townsend 360-385-2900 • www.ptleader.com
Fly Fishing Outfitters
Visit our large store in downtown Port Angeles, on the corner of Front & Oak sts.
140 W. Front St. 360-417-0937
The premier shop serving the Olympic Peninsula
Northwest Smoked Salmon Smoked Salmon: Kippered, Hard Smoked Salmon Jerky, Pepperoni & Lox Jerky: Teriyaki, Cajun, Black Pepper & Garlic, Regular Sausage: Summer Salami, Jalapeño Salami, Thuringer, Polish/German/Italian Brats, Jalapeño & Cheddar Brats, Pepperoni & Jalapeño Pepperoni Mailed Anywhere in the U.S.A!
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 75
Explore the wild West End By Kathie Meyer of the Leader Of all four extreme tips of the contiguous United States, there is none more beautiful, wild and preserved than ours. Out there, you won’t find any shopping malls, multiplex movie theaters and major sports events. Instead, you’ll find paradise. Leaving Port Townsend, take a right on State Route 20 to Port Angeles to visit what author Ivan Doig called “the rough margin of the West.” Once you hit U.S. Highway 101, either keep going past Port Angeles or take State Route 112 for a twisty coastline view as you drive. If choosing Highway 101, you can still connect to SR 112 later on, so it’s not an either/or decision. Olympic National Park You haven’t actually been to the Olympic Peninsula
West End contact Olympic National Park: nps.gov/olym Makah Tribe: makah.com Forks Chamber of Commerce: forkswa.com Forks Timber Museum: forks-web.com/fg/timbermuseum.htm Dazzled by Twilight: dazzledbytwilight.com
if you don’t venture into Olympic National Park – our area’s crown jewel of 1,400 square miles of exquisite mountains, rain forests, river valleys and wilderness coast. President Theodore Roosevelt originally designated this area as Olympic National Monument in 1909. It wasn’t until Congress voted to authorize its national park status, signed into legislation by President Franklin Roosevelt in 1938, that it became officially known by its present name. There is an entrance fee of $15 per carload or $5 per individual on foot, bicycle or motorcycle. Those passes are good for seven consecutive days. A pass good for a year from purchase is $30. Camping fees are extra and cost $10 to $18. Wilderness overnight fees for the backcountry are $5, plus $2 per night. For more information, visit nps.gov/olym. For a complete natural history of the park, consult Sequim author Tim McNulty’s recently revised book Olympic National Park: A Natural History (University of Washington Press), available in local bookstores. The north side Outside of the park, State Route 112 offers the small hamlets of Clallam
76 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Beaches on the western end of the Olympic Peninsula are wild, unspoiled places, where the Pacific Ocean surf sometimes crashes with spectacular force. There are many great beach-camping spots for those hardy enough to hike in a couple of miles.
Bay, Sekiu and Neah Bay. Lighthouse enthusiasts will enjoy Clallam Bay’s Slip Point Lighthouse, and Sekiu is a great destination for kayakers, divers and anglers. At the end of SR 112 is the trail to Shi Shi Beach and the famous Point of Arches. Neah Bay is located within the Makah Indian Reservation, the largest reservation on the peninsula. There, the Makah Museum is the nation’s sole repository for archaeological discoveries dug out of the Makah coastal village of Ozette, revealed in
1970 when tidal erosion exposed the 500-year-old perfectly preserved site. Guided fishing excursions and raft and kayak trips also leave from here. There are lots of trails for day hiking in this area, but you can’t say you have been to the northwesternmost tip of the contiguous United States unless you take the three-quarter-mile Cape Flattery trail that leads to four lookouts. There you’ll see Tatoosh Island a half mile away from shore, standing sen● ● ● Continued on page 78
Domaine Madeleine ... “Romance by the Sea” 360683-7350
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Pacific Northwest Cuisine • Steaks • Pasta Local Seafood (including gluten free)
Enjoy a Martini, Cocktail or Wine from our extensive wine list Beer & Local Microbrews on Tap
Retreat to your own private luxury railroad car - A CABOOSE. Our gourmet breakfasts are elegantly served in our private 1937 Zephyr dining car. www.redcaboosegetaway.com
Northwest Native Expressions Offering Unique Forms of Northwest Native American Art
2577 W. Sequim Bay Rd., Sequim, WA In the beautiful John Wayne Marina
Open Wed-Sun • 360-683-7510 11 am - 3 pm • 4 pm - 9 pm
Located at the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribal Center 1033 Old Blyn Highway, Sequim
email: email@example.com www.northwestnativeexpressions.com Daily 9:00am - 5:00pm
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 77
West End beaches vary widely, from flat and sandy to steep and rocky. Sea life abounds on all beaches.
following State Route 110 off of Highway 101; or continue along Highway 101 to Ruby Beach and Kalaloch.
● ● ● Continued from page 76
try at the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. No one lives on the island except nesting seabirds, several marine mammals and a diverse community of marine plants and animals. Looking down into the water, it’s not unusual to observe sea otters frolicking in the kelp forests and feasting on sea urchins. Olympic National Park is a great place to pitch a tent, but out here is the place to go for some of the best beach camping in the world. Take your pick from Cape Alava or Sand Point, two overnight hikes (or one long loop) found at the end of the Hoko-Ozette Road; the several beaches found by
twilight tours A trip to the West End is incomplete without a stop in the town of Forks, named because it is located near the forks of three rivers – the Calawah, Bogachiel and Soleduck. This logging town didn’t get much respect until Stephenie Meyer came along and decided that with its many gray days, Forks is the perfect setting for the vampires in her best-selling Twilight series read by young and old alike. Now fans of Bella and Edward are flocking to Forks in record numbers. Stop at the visitor center at 1411 South Forks Ave. (U.S. Highway 101) for information about guided and
78 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
self-guided Twilight tours. If fact over fiction is more your fancy, visit the Forks Timber Museum located next to the visitor center. It’s open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. seven days a week from June through September. The museum displays a fascinating array of early farm implements, logging tools, firefighting gear
and a 9-foot-long, threeoven wood-burning cast iron stove used to cook meals for dozens of hungry loggers back in the day. Outside the museum is a memorial to loggers, an authentic fire lookout and 5 miles of outdoor trails. Guided tours are available by appointment. Call 360-374-9663. It’s impossible to list everything to see and do on this fair and wild peninsula, so keep an eye out for other adventures, and by all means, talk to the local residents for insider tips. Paradise awaits you.
Vampires are welcome in Forks, the setting for the popular Twilight Series.
PT Bed & Breakfasts
# of Units Rate (Min.) Rate (Max.) Comp. Breakfast Internet Mtg Facilities Children Pets Handicap Access Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub
Accommodations • • • • • • • • • • • port townsend • • • • • • • • • • • accommodations
Baker House B&B • 905 Franklin, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6673 • 800-240-0725
4 85 105 •
Description Warm hospitality
Blue Gull Inn B&B • 1310 Clay St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-3241 • 888-700-0205 • www.bluegullinn.com
6 95 140 •
Commanders Beach House • 400 Hudson St, PT 98368 • 360-385-1778 • 888-385-1778 • www.commandersbeachhouse.com
4 99 225 •
B&B by the beach
English Inn B&B, The • 718 F St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-5302 • 800-254-5302 • www.english-inn.com
3 99 135 •
Holly Hill House B&B • 611 Polk St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-5619 • 800-435-1454 • www.hollyhillhouse.com
5 99 219 •
Inn at McCurdy House • 405 Taylor St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-4824 • www.innatmccurdyhouse.com
3 130 160 •
Private, relaxing retreat
Old Consulate Inn • 313 Walker, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6753 • 800-300-6753 • www.oldconsulateinn.com
8 99 210 •
Quimper Inn • 1306 Franklin St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1060 • 800-557-1060 • www.quimperinn.com
4 98 160 •
Ravenscroft Inn • 533 Quincy St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2784 • 800-782-2691 • www.ravenscroftinn.com
8 109 210 •
Water & mt. views
Solstice Farm B&B • 6503 Beaver Valley Road, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-732-0174 • www.solsticefarmstay.com
2 85 95 •
Active working farm
Thornton House • 1132 Garfield St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6670 • www.thorntonhousept.com
2 120 135 • •
• Historic Victorian farmhouse
PT Hotels & Motels Aladdin Motor Inn • 2333 Washington St, PT 98368 • 360-385-3747 • 800-281-3747 • www.aladdinmotorinnpt.com
30 70 150 •
Ann Starrett Mansion • 744 Clay St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3205 • 800-321-0644 • www.starrettmansion.com
9 90 99
Belmont, The • 925 Water St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3007 • www.thebelmontpt.com
4 59 149
Classic old hotel
Bishop Victorian Hotel, The • 714 Washington St, PT 98368 • 360-385-6122 • 800-824-4738 • www.bishopvictorian.com
16 109 235 •
Clam Cannery Hotel • 111 Quincy St, PT 98368 • 206-718-5401 • www.clamcannery.com
5 200 495
Newly renovated on the water
Fort Worden State Park Conference Center • 200 Battery Way, PT 98368 • 360-344-4400 • www.fortworden.net
35 150 410
Houses: 1–11 bdrms
Harborside Inn • 330 Benedict St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-7909 • 800-942-5960 • www.harborside-inn.com
63 80 160 •
Water view–all rooms
Manresa Castle • 7th & Sheridan St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-5750 • 800-732-1281 • www.manresacastle.com
41 109 229 •
Full service hotel
Palace Hotel • 1004 Water St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0773 • 800-962-0741 • www.palacehotelpt.com
19 59 289
Port Townsend Inn • 2020 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2211 • 800-216-4985 • www.porttownsendinn.com 36 78 159 •
Motel near water
Swan Hotel, The • 216 Monroe St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1718 • 800-824-4738 • www.theswanhotel.com
13 90 285
Tides Inn • 1807 Water St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0595 • 800-822-8696 • www.tides-inn.com
45 54 269 •
Washington Hotel • 825 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-774-0213 • www.accommodationsporttownsend.com
4 110 165
Water Street Hotel • 635 Water St, PT 98368 • 360-385-5467 • 800-735-9810 • www.waterstreethotelporttownsend.com
16 45 160
View of bay
January 2010 BR5/5/2010 • Lodging list produced with funding from Port Townsend and Jefferson County lodging tax funds. NOTE: Information subject to change without notice. It is advisable to contact lodging in advance. R=Restrictions
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 79
# of Units Rate (Min.) Rate (Max.) Comp. Breakfast Internet Meeting Facilities Children Pets Handicap Access Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub
Accommodations • • • • • • • • • • • port townsend • • • • • • • • • • • accommodations
PT Hostels & Dorms Description HI-Olympic Hostel • 272 Battery Way, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0655 • 800-909-4776 • www.olympichostel.org
30 29 68
Dormitory & private
Fort Worden State Park Dormitories • 200 Battery Way, PT 98368 • 360-344-4400 • www.fortworden.net
365 28 30
PT Vacation Rentals A Bungalow on the Bluff • 303 Filmore St, Port Townsend 98368 • 800-385-1238 • www.porttownsendgetaway.com
2 175 250
A Garden Cottage • 112 Umitilla Ave, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-643-3210 • www.agardencottagegetaway.com
1 110 130
A Suite at the Fountain • 914 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-643-1370 • www.fountainsuite.com
1 150 250
Adelma Beach Cabin • 262 Adelma Beach Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-301-1271 • adelmabeach.com
2 150 189
Alegria Guest House • 4934 SR20, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-3695
1 140 150
An Inn Between • 5825 Old Gardiner Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8125 • www.aninnbetween.com
1 119 179
An Inn Between Two • 5821 Old Gardiner Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8125 • www.aninnbetween.com
1 119 189
Located on beach Water view Waterfront 3BR, 2BA Waterfront home
Arcadia West Guest Nest • 389A Arcadia West, Port Townsend 98368 • 381-5099 • www.vrbo.com/268004
1 150 175
Aunt Jenny’s Guest House • 1705 Monroe St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2899 • www.auntjennysguesthouse.com
1 115 135 •
Cozy/LTR avail in Winter
A Wolves’ Den • 269 N Jacob Miller Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-316-9174 • www.winterchill-farm.com
1 150 200
Luxury cabin retreat
Bartlett House Cottage • 314 Polk Street, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-9451
1 179 199
View, private entrance
Bay Cottage • 4346 S. Discovery Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2035 • www.baycottagegetaway.com
3 85 150
Beautiful beach access
Big Cedars Lodge • 12224 Airport Cutoff Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8752 • www.bigcedarslodge.com
1 125 125
Lodge & 15 acres
Big Red Barn • 309 V St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-301-1271 • www.bigredbarngetaway.com
1 150 185 •
Cabins at Treefrog Woods • 1280 Cape George Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-0906 • www.peninsulasportsman.com
3 85 125
Chevy Chase Beach Cabins • 3710 S. Discovery Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1270 • www.chevychasebeachcabins.com
7 110 300
Dell’s Guesthouse at North Beach • 510 56th St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3783 • firstname.lastname@example.org
2 80 140
Close to trails & beach
Eaglemount Rockery Cottages & Museum • 1822 SR 20, PT 98368 • 360-379-8922 • www.eaglemtrockerycottages.com
4 68 79
Free outdoor museum
Fairmount Beach House • 1071 Fairmount Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-2480
1 135 150
Fern House • 1041 Taylor St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-0928
4 75 125
Hammond House Cottage • 834 Pierce St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6269 • www.olypen.com/glb/hammond
1 60 65 •
Holcomb Hideaway • 1823 Holcomb, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-531-0611 • www.holcombhideaway.com
2 150 225 •
Hubers Inn • 1421 Landes St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-3904 • www.loshuber.com
3 135 195 •
Water view Weekly rates
Inn at Waterfront Place • 632 A Waterfront Place, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-6957 • www.innatwaterfrontplace.com
1 120 155
Katie’s Kottage • 475 W St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-8261 • www.katieskottage.info
1 65 95
Morgan Hill Guest House • 606 Roosevelt St, Port Townsend 98368 • 800-490-9070 • www.morganhillgetaways.com
2 80 160 •
Pilot’s Seaside Cottage • 327 Jackson St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-0811 • www.pilotscottage.com
1 120 160
Sea Loft • 306 Lincoln St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1626 • www.olympus.net/personal/mortenson
1 110 135
Siebenbaum Suite • 824 Water St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-774-0213 • www.accommodationsporttownsend.com
1 225 275 •
Elegant, 2,400 sq. ft.
Takaki House • 1617 Washington St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-9784 • www.mtakaki.com
1 75 100
Gallery, private getaway
The View Point • 419 Lawrence St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-774-1904
1 150 225
Private, view, fireplace
Vestry at the Olde Church, The • 1510 Blaine St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-379-9700
1 110 110
Historic 1890s/Closed Winter
80 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
# of Units Rate (Min.) Rate (Max.) Comp. Breakfast Internet Meeting Facilities Children Pets Handicap Access Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub
Accommodations • Brinnon • Quilcene • Ludlow • Hadlock • accommodations
12 60 60
18 70 95
Heart of Port Hadlock
Inn at Port Hadlock • 310 Hadlock Bay Rd, Port Hadlock 98339 • 360-385-7030 • www.innatporthadlock.com
47 99 409
Mount Walker Inn • PO Box 144, 61 Maple Grove Rd. Quilcene 98376 • 360-765-3410 • www.mountwalkerinn.com
12 55 95
• fee •
Hotels & Motels Brinnon / Quilcene / Port Ludlow / Port Hadlock Bayshore Motel • 306142 Hwy 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4220 • www.myspace.com/bayshoremotel Hadlock Motel • 181 Chimacum Rd, Port Hadlock 98339 • 360-385-3111 • 888-360-3111 • www.hadlockmotel.com
The Resort At Port Ludlow • 1 Heron Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-437-7000 • 877-805-0868 • www.portludlowresort.com
45 99 699
Bed & Breakfasts Brinnon / Quilcene / Port Ludlow / Port Hadlock Elk Meadows • 3485 Dosewallips Rd, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4886 • www.Elk Meadows.blogspot.com
3 95 125 •
Harbor House • 309257 Hwy 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4064 • 360-951-5366 • www.theharborhouse.virtualave.net
2 100 150 •
Honey Moon Cabin on Marrowstone Island • Nordland 98358 • 509-662-0849 • www.olympicgetaway.com
1 135 195 •
Houseboats For Two • 308913 Hwy 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-3440 • 800-966-5942 • www.houseboats4two.com
4 205 245
Solstice Farm B&B • PO Box 135, Chimacum 98325 • 360-732-0174 • www.solsticefarmstay.com
2 115 115 •
Beach Getaway on Oak Bay • 101 Oak Rd, Port Hadlock 98339 • 360-437-2532 • www.beachgetawayonoakbay.com
1 150 300
Beaver’s Pond Retreat • 3851 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 • www.beaverspondretreat.com
5 125 340
Bluff House at Marrowstone Is. • 2500 E. Marrowstone, Nordland 98358 • 209-484-0099 • www.marrowstonebluffhouse.com
1 130 170
Crow’s Nest Cabin • 5073 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-4920 • www.ptgetaways.com
1 115 150
Dabob Bay Cottage • 840 Piper Rd, Quilcene 98376 • 360-765-3947 • www.dabobbaycottage.com
1 110 135
Fort Flagler State Park Retreat Center • 10541 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-3701 • www.parks.wa.gov
4 79 170
House on Tala Shore • Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-821-9012 • www.ludlowbaycottage.com
2 150 225
Woods & water
Julianna’s Cottage • 1 Beaver Pond Trail, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 • www.beaverspond.com
1 225 240
Scott’s Cabin • 3871 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 • www.beaverspond.com
1 225 240
Skunk Island Cottages • 33 North Water St, Port Hadlock 98339 • 360-385-3450 • www.ajaxcafe.com
3 80 120
Windermere Vacation Rentals • PO Box 770, Brinnon 98320 • 888-796-3450 • www.windermerehoodcanal.com
9 125 325
Hood Canal views
Vacation Rentals and Bed & Breakfasts Brinnon / Quilcene / Port Ludlow / Port Hadlock
Fire pits, fishing Furnished cedar home
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2010 GETAWAY 81
# of Sites Rate Range (Min.) Rate Range (Max.) Hook-ups Pull-through Dump Station Toilets Laundry Showers Handicap Access Pets Pool/Swimming
camping • • • camping • • • camping• • • • camping• • • • camping
RV/Camping for Port Townsend
Fort Worden State Park • Port Townsend 98368 • 360-344-4400 • www.fortworden.net
85 15 32 •
• • •
Beach or forest
Jefferson County Fair Grounds • 4907 Landes St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-385-1013 • www.jeffcofairgrounds.com
80 15 20 •
Old Fort Townsend • 1370 Old Fort Townsend Rd, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-344-4400 • www.parks.wa.gov
40 17 17
Point Hudson Marina & RV Park • 103 Hudson St, Port Townsend 98368 • 800-228-2803 • www.portofpt.com
48 20 42 •
Beach, close to town
RV/Camping for Brinnon / Quilcene / Port Ludlow / Port Hadlock Beaver’s Pond Retreat • 3851 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-732-7148 • www.beaverspondretreat.com
5 50 50 •
Cove RV Park • 303075 Highway 101, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4723
33 27 27 •
Dosewallips State Park • Highway 101, 4 miles N of Brinnon • 888-226-7688 • www.parks.wa.gov
140 19 31 •
Elk Meadows • 3485 Dosewallips Rd, Brinnon 98320 • 360-796-4886 • www.Elk Meadows.blogspot.com
Nestled in woods
Beach & Trails
1 40 100
Falls View Campground • Highway 101, 3.5 miles S of Quilcene, Quilcene • 360-765-2200 • www.fs.fed/us/r6/olympic 30 14 14
On the river
View of falls
Mar 1–Oct 31
In the woods
Fort Flagler State Park • 10541 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-1259 • www.parks.wa.gov
116 19 31 •
Halfway RV Park • Highway 101 and Brinnon Ln, Brinnon • 360-796-4715
22 25 25 •
Port Ludlow RV Park • 44 Breaker Ln, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-437-9377 • www.portludlowrvpark.net
37 20 35 •
Rainbow Campground • Highway 101, 5 miles south of Quilcene • 360-765-2200 • www.fs.fed/us/r6/olympic
9 50 50
Seal Rock Campground • 1 mile N of Brinnon, Brinnon • 360-765-2200 • www.fs.fed/us/r6/olympic
41 18 18
Smitty’s Island Retreat RV Park • 9142 Flagler Rd, Nordland 98358 • 360-385-2165 • email@example.com
40 27 27 •
Quiet country setting
Upper Oak Bay • 290 Cleveland St, Port Ludlow 98365 • 360-385-9129 • www.jcparksandrec.com
24 18 20 •
Nestled on Oak Bay
82 2010 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
• • •
OUR 25TH YEAR!
WHALE TOURS And Other Adventures GUARANTEED WHALE SIGHTING
Exciting fun, breathtaking beauty. See orcas in the wild and tour the San Juan Islands. Half day and all day cruises available from Port Townsend. Group charters available, dinner parties, weddings, reunions, celebrations of life. 227 Jackson Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368 Information & Reservations
The 2010 Getaway Guide to Port Townsend & the Olympic Peninsula, as published by the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader.
Published on Apr 7, 2010
The 2010 Getaway Guide to Port Townsend & the Olympic Peninsula, as published by the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader.