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Port Townsend & Olympic Peninsula


Supplement to the April 25, 2012 edition of The Leader

2 âœˇ 2012 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

On the Cover Jeffrey Tocher’s painting “Port Townsend State of Mind” is the cover art of our 2012 Port Townsend and Olympic Peninsula Getaway guide. Tocher has been creating art since the age of 12, cartooning, painting with oils and creating sculptures as tall as he could reach. Through his expressionistic style filled with wit, wonder and whimsy, he explores the relationship between man and nature, revealing his perception of the “true nature of nature.” His work can be seen at Gallery 9 in Port Townsend and the Landing Art Gallery in Port Angeles, as well as on Facebook and his website,


We all spend only so much time on this planet, and making the most of it must include basic rest and relaxation. Doctor’s orders. Port Townsend, Jefferson County and the Olympic Peninsula are a picture-perfect getaway destination for families and friends. Feed your soul with mountains, beaches, rain forests, boats, cultural activities, great food, Victorian history and parks, parks, parks. Get away, get over here and enjoy yourself!


Index Maps & Travel Port Townsend......................37 Olympic Peninsula............38-39 East Jefferson County...........40 Historic Homes.....................72 Fresh & Local What You Need to Know..........4 Music, Art, Plays.....................8 Best Foods...........................10 Farmers Markets..................14 Beer, Wine, Cider..................18 Boats 101............................32 Fort Worden State Park.........34 Real Housewives...................74

Getaway © 2012 Patrick J. Sullivan, Editor Marian Roh, Layout & Design

Our Communities Tri-Area & Marrowstone.........26 Port Ludlow..........................28 North Hood Canal.................30 Port Townsend......................36 Our Busy Nonprofits..............54

Scott Wilson, Publisher Fred Obee, General Manager Patrick J. Sullivan, Managing Editor Sara Radka, Advertising Manager Jan Halliday, Tami Hewitt, Danielle Koagel

Across the Peninsula Birds, Whales, Game.............22

Allison Arthur, Assistant Editor, Megan Claflin, Tristan Hiegler, Lynn Nowak, Sunny Parsons, Renae Reed

Clallam County, Forks...........46

John Stanger, Production Manager Kathy Busic, Drew Elicker, Chris Hawley, Christopher Overman, Marian Roh

West End..............................52

Port Townsend Publishing Company Inc. 226 Adams Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-2900 fax: 360-385-3422 IN DEPTH • IN TOUCH • INDEPENDENT Published continually since 1889

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Victoria, B.C.........................50

Places to Stay

Victorian lady in a Victorian town Sarah A. Chrisman is living a Victorian life in Port Townsend. The massage therapist also writes about her journey from being a 5-foot, 10-inch “woman of inconvenient plumpness” to becoming an upright woman. She wears a corset daily and walks while on her daily errands. Waisted Curves: My Transformation into a Victorian Lady is a book she wrote and bound herself. Chrisman and her husband, Gabriel, who shares her enthusiasm for Victorian life and enjoys riding vintage bikes, are refurbishing a Victorian house in Port Townsend’s Uptown National Historic District. Photo by Allison Arthur

Port Townsend.................42-43 Brinnon, Quilcene, Port Ludlow, Port Hadlock...................44-45 Things to Do Events.............................58-68 Museums.............................70 2012 Getaway ✷ 3

Port Townsend is Washington state’s Victorian seaport with a pleasant mix of unique shops, restaurants, museums, historic homes and overnight accommodation choices. Photos by Patrick J. Sullivan

Five Pieces of Advice ▼

From a Local We are all here because we are not all there. And now that you, too, are here (or planning to be here) for a getaway – business or pleasure – please consider my Five Best Pieces of Advice.

Navigation & Cell

Getting here is easy, over hill, dale, ferry and floating bridge. Best Piece of Advice No. 1 (two parts): Do not trust Google Maps for absolute directions in our rural county. We have South Discovery and Discovery Road and Old Discovery Road, and each stops and restarts. Fair warning. Likewise, terrain makes cell phone signals (depending on provider) sketchy in certain parts of Port Townsend (such as Fort Worden State Park) or the rural county. And, when crossing between Canada and 4 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Port Townsend still has an old-fashioned downtown (and an uptown district, too) with the majority of buildings erected before 1910.

the United States, check your cell phone and data rate or pay the international rate consequences. Your cell coverage near Cape Flattery could go Canadian so watch your bill for roaming charges.

Most Asked

Here is Best Piece of Advice No. 2 to answer the two most-asked visitor questions: Where is a good place to eat? Where is a

good place to stay? In terms of your appetite, our Best Foods article on page 10 is a good place to start. We are so fortunate to have a wide variety of eateries. For what it is worth, this month I have patronized Ajax Café in Lower Hadlock, Lanza’s in Uptown Port Townsend, Silverwater Café, Lehani’s and the Courtyard Cafe downtown, the Blue Moose for breakfast and Sea J’s for its fish and chips and sassy service. When it comes to your pillow, select from hotels, motels, boutique hotels, bed and breakfasts, romantic getaways and beach cabins. Call the Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce Visitor Information Center (360-385-2722) near the Port Townsend Safeway store. VIC volunteers track hotel/motel vacancies. Hint: Reserve rooms in advance for key summer weekends, especially Centrum’s big jazz and blues festivals. Travel websites such as TripAdvisor or Yelp offer another insight on accommodations and eateries.

On The Water

You do not become the wooden boat capital of the West Coast by sitting on your … hands. This is a working waterfront, with boatyards and a shipyard to handle all types of vessel construction. ▼ Continued on page 6 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

“A Treasure To Be Discovered”

The Discovery Bay Golf Course is the oldest public golf course in the state of Washington with rich history and simple rural charm.


1928 Travel Air Biplane

Biplane Rides • One Or Two Passenger Rides . Tour Picturesque Port Townsend The Goodwin Aviation Co. Jefferson County Intl. Airport


Come enjoy the panoramic views of the Olympic and Cascade mountains and the pristine waters of Discovery Bay.


Please call for rates & specials.: (360) 385-0704 7401 Cape George Road Port Townsend

Palace Hotel

.Relax in Plush Victorian Comfort .Uniquely decorated rooms .Magnificent views .Pets and families welcome .Fascinating history

2 Blocks from Ferry in Historic Downtown 1004 Water Street Port Townsend WA 98368


The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 5

Advice Continued from page 4

Port Townsend’s haulout and moorage facilities have been improved (take a walk around the port and see for yourself). There are also sailing and rowing clubs and programs, and kayak rentals, so you, too, can get on the water. Best Piece of Advice No. 3: Never judge people here by the faded color of their Carhartts. This same sentiment applies to judging anyone by age, size, hairstyle, tattoos, type of car, etc.

Community Health

Speaking of cars, Port Townsend has the highest per-capita ratio of Toyota Prius cars in Washington state. We are a state leader in on-grid solar power. Bicycles for many are a way of life (so are Harleys and hot rods, but that is another story). Organic food is almost a religion. Our farmers market was voted best in the state. Health conscious would be an understatement around here, and we have the naturopaths to prove it – along with a public hospital and associated physicians. The county also has a high percentage of people who choose alternative medicine.

Business Health

Repeat visitors will notice that many of

Port Townsend stands at the gateway to Puget Sound. Here, the 738-foot Zhen Hua 9 cargo ship passes Point Wilson en route to Seattle with a cargo of three container cranes. The cranes are each about 200 feet in height, compared to the 46-foot lighthouse. Also entering Admiralty Inlet at this moment is the 164-foot motor yacht Evviva. Photos by Patrick J. Sullivan

our shops and storefront businesses have changed. (Yes, the Green Eyeshade is not the same Green Eyeshade). Wall Street’s shame has trickled to Main Street (actually, Port Townsend has no street by that name, but you know what I am talking about and so do the MoveOn and Occupy folks who have rallied outside financial institutions here in PT). Four years of city construction projects (roundabouts, rain gardens and this year, underground sidewalk tunnels) have tested everyone’s patience. The economy is improving, and housing sales are up although prices are down (like most everywhere else in the U.S.). Best Piece of Advice No. 4: No matter where you visit (from Quilcene to Kalaloch, Port Ludlow to Port Townsend), support the local busi-

Oh, deer! Expect to see western black-tail deer anywhere and everywhere, including downtown Port Townsend. It’s OK, these city deer seemingly abide by traffic rules.

nesses that contribute year-round to these places you appreciate.

Be Prepared

Make sure your getaway includes a trip to the beach. 6 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Port Townsend is unique, in terms of architecture, natural beauty, a high volume of caring, giving people, and the vortex of energy some would say spurs creativity yet feeds negativity. Be prepared to meet a parade or festival (we love our costumes), to smell the Port Townsend Paper Corp. mill (papering the world since 1928), and to encounter city deer that love gardens and don’t mind traffic. Best Piece of Advice No. 5: Everyone is a tourist when out of their own backyards, so treat those you encounter while on your getaway as you would want to be treated. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Affordable Family Camping

Brighten your day !!!

Jeff Tocher Art 7 7 Port Townsend, WA 7

Gallery-9 - 1012 Water St. P.T. Shirt Co. - 940 Water St.

Jefferson County Parks Lake Leland • Oak Bay • Quilcene

7 Sequim, WA 7 Blue Whole Gallery - 129 W. Washington St.


7 Port Angeles, WA 7 The Landing Gallery - 115 Railroad Ave.

Where’s the poetry?

Call Matt at 360-385-9129 for more info!

12003 CCP Getaway 2.indd 1


Right here. Website open 24/7 Copper Canyon Press Building 313 Fort Worden State Park Port Townsend

Poetry readers and book buyers welcome!

3/30/12 5:07 PM

World Class Chamber Music Idyllic Setting

Total Enjoyment!

June 30 - September 2, 2012 Concerts In the Barn

Every Saturday & Sunday

Call (360) 732-4800 or ...... Visit us at: The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 7

Cultural Adventure ▼

Music, Art, Plays Make your next trip to the Port Townsend area an experience in arts immersion. It’s easy to do, with something to fill each day of your five-day stay. Day 1, Wednesday: Get settled in and spend your first night on a live music pub crawl (with the help of a designated driver). The Upstage Restaurant has an event or live music every day and the Undertown Café & Wine Bar offers a unique space for music most evenings. Check out the music and great eats at Sirens Pub, Uptown Pub, Highway 20 Roadhouse and Hilltop Tavern in Port Townsend, Hadlock House, Ajax Café and Valley Tavern in Port Hadlock, and the Fireside Restaurant lounge in Port Ludlow. Day 2, Thursday: After a late night on the town, treat yourself to an independent film or Hollywood blockbuster at either the Rose Theatre or Uptown Theatre. Cozy up with the family for a double feature at the Wheel-in Motor Movie drive-in theater. Attend the Port Townsend Film Festival (Sept. 21-23), which offers independent films, special guests and outdoor movies. There’s also a rich world of live theater here, with high caliber productions by Key City Public Theatre, Chameleon Theatre and Poetic Justice Theatre Ensemble, plus numerous community and student troupes. Day 3, Friday: This is the perfect time for more live music. Centrum, a world-renowned nonprofit arts organization, conducts numerous workshops and performances, including Voice Works June 25-July 1; Free Fridays at the Fort 8 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Don’t miss seeing a play at Key City Public Theatre – a high-caliber small town theater. Last year featured a production of “Dracula” starring David Natale and Angela Amos; the 2012 season includes “Jacques Brel is Alive and Well in Paris,” “Twelfth Night” and “Woyzeck.” Photo by Michael McKee/KCPT

gallery to gallery, mingling with artists, tasting refreshments and attending special readings by the Writers’ Workshoppe or PT Shorts. Day 5, Sunday: Feeling inspired? Spend your last day in Port Townsend by releasing your creativity. Try a new artistic endeavor in a community art space for the “serious (and curious)” at Hand Work Studio or with The Bazaar Girls, a crafting community. Drop by Akamai Art & Glass Supply Centrum’s Festival of American Fiddle Tunes for the right tools to create in any medium attracts talent like Grammy Award–winning and to check the bulletin board for classes bluegrass fiddler Bobby Hicks. Centrum photo by talented local artists. Or, get in front through July; Festival of American Fiddle of a live crowd through many open mike, karaoke and dance opportunities. Tunes July 1-8; Port Townsend Writers’ No matter what you do, be sure to bring Conference July 8-15 and July 15-22; a piece of the local arts scene home with Jazz Port Townsend July 22-29; Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival July 29- you – a new dance move, song or CD, hand Aug. 5; and the first annual Reverberations crafted jewelry, fine art pieces or something you created yourself. Sept. 21-23. Keep abreast of these events and many, Day 4, Saturday: On weekend afternoons June 30-Sept. 2, the Olympic Music many more through and the Community Calendar, which appears in the Festival (near Quilcene) offers chamber Leader newspaper every week. music performed in a bucolic farm setting, replete with a barn and hay bales for seating. Leader On the first Saturday of every month, downCommunity Calendar town buzzes with Gallery Walk 5:30-8 p.m., when galleries stay open late to offer a first look at the month’s shows. Stroll from The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Looking to buy or sell a property?

Call on these friendly, local real estate professionals!

Dick Spindor

Lynda Spindor

Holley Carlson

office: 360-385-1448 cell: 360-381-0175

office: 360-385-1448





Richard and his wife Lynda have lived in Jefferson County their whole lives. Richard has more than 40 years of experience in real estate, and Lynda handles the property management. Call today for friendly and knowledgable assistance with all of your real estate needs!

“I have been a real estate agent in Port Townsend for 13 years. I am dedicated to my clients, making sure that their real estate experience is the best! I believe in our community and giving back. Each year I give a portion of my commissions to a local charity.”

292 Boardwalk Avenue Port Townsend, WA 98368

1220 Water Street Port Townsend, WA 98368

Port Townsend Realty, Inc.

Rebecca Wexler

Nancy Rathke

Broker 360-301-1647



Your real estate matchmaker.SM “I have many years of property management experience and will bring that attention to detail to working with you in your real estate needs.”

Nancy brings more than 26 years of experience in real estate and property management to the table when helping you find your dream home.

2219 West Sims Way Port Townsend, WA 98368

591 Olympus Blvd. Port Ludlow, WA 98365



Looking for current real estate listings? There is a reason local real estate professionals advertise their listings with the Leader and ptleader. com! The Leader reaches 19,200 readers, and has 23,000 unique visitors every week. Pick up a copy of this week’s Leader or log on to for the latest! The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 9

Places to eat ▼

Mmm, Mmm, Good The number-one question asked at the Port Townsend Visitors Center is no surprise: “Where is a good place to eat?” Here are the top five things you should know about eating locally: 1) Do not judge a restaurant from the street; 2) restaurants do not stay in business long if not for local support; 3) Best Foods contests are, admittedly, unscientific; 4) your taste buds won’t lie; and 5) why not try something new this time? For the past 16 years, the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader has hosted a “Best Foods” contest. The friendly competition, held each October, offers locals and other regulars the chance to vote for their favorite eateries. While favorites are listed here, do not let that sway you from trying any corner café, roadside restaurant or other eatery that may capture your fancy. Here is a list of the establishments from our 2011 Best Foods contest. We’ll leave the rest up to your taste buds.

1-2-3 Thai Food co-owner Jenny Chunruk serves up a hot plate of pad thai with chicken, the restaurant’s most popular dish. Photo by Nicholas Johnson

2011 Leader Best Foods Contest

Best Happy Hour: 1) Sirens Pub, 2) Alchemy Wine Bar

(Port Townsend businesses unless otherwise noted)

Best Healthy/Organic/Local: 1) The Food Coop, 2) Owl Sprit, 3) Chimacum Corner Farmstand, Chimacum.

Best Asian Food: 1) 1-2-3 Thai Food, 2) Khu Larb Thai, 3) Ichikawa.

Best Mexican Food: 1) Fiesta Jalisco, Port Hadlock, 2) El Sarape, 3) La Isla.

Best Baked Goods: 1) Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery, 2) Sweet Laurette Café & Bistro, 3) Courtyard Café.

Best New Place: 1) Owl Sprit, 2) Metro Bagels, 3) Muskan Indian Restaurant.

Best Breakfast: 1) Blue Moose Café, 2) Salal Café, 3) Chimacum Café.

Best Pasta: 1) Lanza’s Ristorante, 2) Fountain Café, 3) Silverwater Café.

Best Burger: 1) Bloomers Landing, Port Hadlock, 2) Sirens Pub, 3) The Public House.

Best Pie: 1) Chimacum Café, 2) Spruce Goose Café, Jefferson County International Airport, 3) Bayview Restaurant.

Best Coffee: 1) Mean Bean Coffee Co., 2) Undertown Coffee & Wine Bar, 3) Blue Moose Café.

Best Pizza: 1) Waterfront Pizza, 2) Ferino’s Pizzeria, Port Hadlock, 3) Lanza’s Ristorante.

Best Dessert: 1) Elevated Ice Cream Co. & Candy Shop, 2) Sweet Laurette Café & Bistro, 3) Chimacum Café, Chimacum. Best Fish & Chips: 1) Sea J’s, 2) Scampi & Halibuts Seafood Grill, Port Hadlock, 3) The Public House.

Best Sandwich: 1) Jordini’s on the Water, 2) Blue Moose Café, 3) Courtyard Café. Best Seafood: 1) Ajax Café, Port Hadlock, 2) Fins Coastal Cuisine, 3) Shanghai Restaurant. Best Service: 1) Blue Moose Café, 2) Mean Bean Coffee, 3) Ajax Café, Port Hadlock. Best Soup: 1) Owl Sprit and Aldrich’s Market, tie, 2) Blue Moose Café, 3) Sweet Laurette Café & Bistro. Best Steak: 1) Ajax Café, Port Hadlock, 2) Silverwater Café. Best Takeout: 1) 1-2-3 Thai Food, 2) Bloomers Landing, Port Hadlock, 3) Khu Larb Thai. Most Food for the Buck: 1) Blue Moose Café, 2) Chimacum Café, 3) 1-2-3 Thai Food.

Fish and chips served fresh and hot at Sea J’s at the Port Townsend Boat Haven. Photo by Allison Arthur 10 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Most Romantic: 1) Ajax Café, Port Hadlock, 2) Lanza’s Ristorante, 3) The Fountain Café.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery

Award-winning Bread & Pastry Port Townsend, WA. 360.385.1199 Sequim, WA. 360.681.3280 Bainbridge Isl., WA. 206-780-1902

Photo by Hilary McMullen



Perfect Dreams Cupcakes

Open Daily 6:30 am 211 Taylor Street 360-385-1410


909 Water Street • 360-385-2332

Delicious Boxed Lunch 6” Sandwich Chips Cookie Starting at


Buy one 6” Sandwich and a 21. oz. drink


* of equal or lesser value Coupon good through April 2013

Across from Port Townsend Ferry

TWO GREAT LOCATIONS 680 W. Washington, Ste E 101 Sequim, WA (Safeway Plaza)

360-385-1463 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


2012 Getaway ✷ 11


BELMONT Established 1889

Port Townsend’s Only Remaining 1880’s Waterfront Restaurant and Saloon


The Belmont Clam Chowder Northwest-style cream chowder, housemade. Lobster Bisque with Sherry


Grilled Portabello Mushroom Marinated in sherry, soy and rice vinegar. Crispy Calamari Dusted with flour, herbs and spices, served with raspberry dijon dipping sauce. Fresh Dungeness Crab Cocktail Served with wasabi cocktail sauce. Grilled Jumbo Prawns With mango chipotle barbeque sauce. Dungeness Crab and Artichoke Dip Served piping hot with crostini. Dungeness Crab Cakes Pan-seared with lemon cucumber sauce. Washington Manila Clams or Mediterranean Mussels One pound of clams, mussels or a combination of both poached in pesto cream broth. Fresh Pacific Northwest Oysters Freshly shucked on the half-shell with wasabi cocktail sauce.

Entrée Salads

Fresh Dungeness Crab Louie Traditional-style with egg, tomato, cucumber and Thousand Island dressing. Traditional, Chicken or Shrimp Caesar Romaine lettuce, parmesan, croutons and housemade Caesar dressing. Sesame Chicken Salad Chilled romaine lettuce, crispy won tons, mushrooms, peanuts and Oriental dressing. Cobb Salad Mounds of chicken, bay shrimp, blue cheese crumbles, bacon, tomatoes and egg with mixed greens. Belmont Salad Baby greens with Granny Smith apples, walnuts, blue cheese and balsamic vinaigrette dressing.


Wild Mushrooms and Pasta Portabello, button mushrooms with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil, onions and Marinara sauce. Wild Salmon with Fresh Pasta Grilled fillet served atop pasta with wild mushroom sauce.

Goat Cheese & Fresh Tri Colored Linguine Sautéed with wild salmon, prawns, scallops, fresh Pan-Fried Oysters spinach, mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes. Freshly shucked oysters dusted in flour, herbs and spices and served with wasabi cocktail sauce. Pan Seared Fresh Scallops Sautéed with linguine, pancetta, shallots and Tuaca Liqueur and finished with créme fresche.

Recommend by Best Places

Hot & Spicy Chicken with Fresh Hot Tomato Fettuccine Chicken breast sautéed with spicy Philippine-style sauce, tossed with egg fettuccine.

360-385-3007 12 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Hot Sandwiches


Crab & Artichoke Sandwich Dungeness crab, artichokes, onions and three cheeses baked open-faced on Italian Panini bread.

Pacific Cod & Chips Beer-battered and served with our onion tartar sauce and French fries.

Old Fashioned French Dip Thinly sliced roast beef on a French roll served with au jus dipping broth.

Stuffed Sole Baked Dover sole stuffed with dungeness crab, onions, artichokes and cheese.

One-Half Pound Belmont Burger Charbroiled and served with your choice of Swiss, Cheddar or blue cheese, sautéed onions or mushrooms.

Salmon En Papillote Baked in parchment paper with fresh vegetables and a lemon, caper, garlic and artichoke aioli.

Cuban Press Sandwich Shredded pork, sautéed onions, Swiss cheese, dill pickles and stone ground mustard aioli.

Cioppino Salmon, halibut, clams, mussels and prawns simmered in our housemade Italian tomato saffron sauce.

Vashon Island’s Pastrami Reuben Baked on marbled rye with old world sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing.

Sockeye Salmon & Dungeness Crab Broiled fillet topped with Dungeness crab and sauce Béarnaise.

Poultry & Meats

Chicken Dijon Oven-baked with Black Forest ham, Swiss and parmesan cheeses, herbs and stone-ground dijon mustard sauce. Chicken Oscar Fresh chicken breast, pan roasted, topped with Dungeness Crab. Served with fresh asparagus and Sauce Béarnaise. Pan Roasted Duck Breasts With natural jus and bing cherries. 3 Masted Filet Mignon 4 oz. choice Filet Mignon, topped with fresh Dungeness Crab and Sauce Béarnaise and 3 prawns, grilled with garlic and olive oil. Tournedos Maison Pan-roasted choice Filet Mignon topped with dungeness crab, sauce Béarnaise and wild mushroom armagnac demi-glaze. 16-oz Choice Angus Ribeye Steak With Belmont herb butter. 6 oz. Filet Mignon with Blue Cheese Chargrilled and served with balsamic caramelized onions and covered with hazelnut smoked Oregon blue cheese.


DAILY LUNCHES FROM 11:30 AM Lunch prices range from $5.95 to $12.95 DINNER SEATINGS AT 4:30 PM Dinner prices range from $7.95 to $28.95 WATERFRONT DECK LOUNGE OPENS AT 11:30 AM

925 Water Street • Port Townsend, Washington • 360-385-3007 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 13

Farm Fresh Food ▼

Support our Farmers Markets By Allison Arthur

Take a walk through any farmers market – from the famous Pike Place Market in Seattle to the more intimate gatherings in Port Townsend, Chimacum and Port Ludlow – and there’s a smell, a sound, a taste, or an image, that signals all of your senses. Come often enough, and those smells, sounds and tastes will vary perceptibly from week to week. One week the marimba band might be playing at the Saturday Port Townsend Farmers Market. The next week you might pass Midori Farm and smell the kimchi. Or one day, you’ll finally stop to taste the Mystery Bay Farm goat cheese. Notice the woman who is waving a sign promoting a book sale at the Port Townsend Community Center. Go ahead and pick up that cup from Millbrook Clay and feel the salmon etched into clay and glazed. Just for fun some time, decide to use only one of your five senses to savor a farmers market in Jefferson County. Smell: How many different scents does Felicia Allen use in her goat milk 14 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Shop for a snack or shop for a meal at farmers markets in Port Townsend, Port Ludlow and Chimacum. Photos by Allison Arthur

Farm to market For fresh food direct from local farmers and producers, check out these farmers markets. Port Townsend Farmers Market runs Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. April through October, and 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. November and December in Uptown, corner of Lawrence and Tyler streets. Chimacum Farmers Market is open Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. May 20 through October at Chimacum Corner Farmstand, 9122 Rhody Drive, about nine miles from Port Townsend. Port Townsend Wednesday Market is on Wednesdays from 3 to 6 p.m. starting June 20 through the end of September, corner of Lawrence and Polk streets, Uptown. Port Ludlow Friday Market runs Fridays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. May 11 through Sept. 28 at the Port Ludlow Village Center.

soaps from Harmony’s Way Farm? Too many to count. Can you detect the lettuce fragrance in the candle made by Heather and Craig Pollock at Seagrass? Can you tell which paprika will be hottest by just smelling Charlie Bodony’s products called “Some Like It Hot” and following his mission to

Soren Randall, snacking here on strawberries, has been coming to the Port Townsend Farmers Market with mother Shelly since before he was born.

“put the devil back in your deviled egg”? Sight: Watch the seasons unfold as different bouquets appear at the booths for Amie’s Garden and Carmen ▼ Continued on page 16

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Make New Memories Here!

Artisan Ice Cream Handcrafted • Fresh Healthy • Delicious!


Open at 10 am - see our website at 627 & 631 Water Street, Port Townsend


LOCAL ... ORGANIC NUTRIENT-DENSE FOOD 7100AM to 6 PM Tyler St. (on the beach)

Port Townsend, WA 360-385-3388


Seafood • Beef • Produce • Beers & Wines Serving dinner nightly at 5pm

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Located on Port Hadlock’s historic waterfront 360-385-3450 •

2012 Getaway ✷ 15

Market Continued from page 14

Tracer’s Green Gables Garden. Notice Amie’s big bouquets and Carmen’s little, more delicate ones. Stand a moment and watch how many people meet say hello to one another. See the vendors trading, coffee for vegetables, cheese for jam, dog biscuits for herbs. Sound: Stop and listen to the music; it’s free. And often, there are young musicians nearby willing to play for a coin or a box of strawberries. Dogs tug on their leashes, greeting each other and annoying the powers that be. There’s always political talk. Want to sign a petition about marijuana laws or to keep chickens free-range in Washington? Taste: There’s no end to the tastes – sweet, sour, salty or bitter –hot, cold, smooth or crunchy. Cheese here, chocolate there, coffee, bread sticks,

Several types of Mt. Townsend Creamery cheeses are available to sample at the Saturday market in Port Townsend.

English jam, crab cakes. Touch: Feel the fiber artworks. Shake a hand or two. Pick up a box of berries and pop them one at a time into your mouth. In Chimacum you’ll notice the dirt beneath your feet, not pave-

ment like it is in Port Townsend. Farmers markets in Jefferson County are meant to be experienced first hand what it’s like to taste, touch, smell, hear, see and just be alive and be close to real food and real people.

Produce at farmers markets in Jefferson County is mostly organic and picked fresh that day. 16 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Traditional Japanese Cuisine with a contemporary twist




11:30 -2




years in

Lunc Buffeh t

Vegan & vegetarian options!

Muskan Indian RESTAURANT & BAR

2330 Washington St. • Port Townsend, WA Wed-Mon 11:30 am - 9:00 pm 360-379-9275

Saturdays 9-2

Uptown! Tyler St. April-Dec.

Wednesdays 3-6 Polk St. Jun 20- Sept

Buy 1, Get 2nd

Wine(s)/Item(s) of equal or lesser value at

25% Off* or $1 off Beer 6-packs

(not valid with other discounts) Wine Not Mix A Case – Even Better Deals! (Special orders, too!)


Large selection of Sake, Beer & Wine


Dine in or Take out 225 Taylor Street next to The Rose Theatre


The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

M K 2010

May 20Oct 28 Rhody & Center

*Some restrictions apply. See store. Cash & Checks preferred. 3% less discount for Credit Cards.

Open 7 Days a Week 1010 Water Street • Port Townsend • 360/385-7673 2012 Getaway ✷ 17

For a sip ▼

Beer, Wine, Cider You, your friends and fellow travelers can find everything you want in a tasting event in or around Port Townsend, from fancy spiced hard cider to red wine or craft micro-brews. But before you set out on the drinking event of a lifetime, in this small Victorian seaport and arts community, consider these rules for having a good time. Top five tips for tasting at local wineries, breweries and cideries: 1) Step out of your comfort zone. You never know what your new favorite kind of wine will be if you don’t try something new. 2) Taste a wide variety. If you merely put up with your partner dragging you to wine tasting, while secretly day dreaming about the breweries, you’ll miss out on tasty items like an unexpected mead or a sensitive merlot. 3) Buy a bottle. These are locally owned businesses that appreciate your support, plus you can bring bottles back as gifts or save them for your anniversary. 4) Don’t be snooty. If you act like you know everything, you won’t learn anything. 5) Have fun, and make this a tasty getaway! Your selection For those of who favor beer, visit the Pourhouse, a craft beer taproom and bottleshop on the Port Townsend waterfront. There are 12 frequently rotated taps, a small wine list, a large selection of bottled beer and a bright open gathering space along Port Townsend Bay. For a brewery 18 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The smell as well as the taste of crafted beer, wine and cider keeps locals and visitors alike happy in Port Townsend and Jefferson County. Photo by Nicholas Johnson

scene, head to Port Townsend Brewing Company’s tasting room located in the Port Townsend Boat Haven shipyard, across the highway from Safeway. The tasting room offers a number of beers on tap, bottled beers to take away and live music three times a week during the summer. Get your hotel reservations early for Port Townsend’s annual Strange BrewFest staged each January at the Marvin G. Shields American Legion Hall downtown. Strange Brewfest features weird, eclectic and even random beers and the festival lures folks from around the Pacific Northwest and the nation. Wine connoisseurs, look no further! Port Townsend and East Jefferson County is host to three wineries all of which provide tasting rooms for your tasting adventure. Sorensen Cellars is a family-owned winery

located just outside of Port Townsend city limits on State Route 20. FairWinds Winery is owned by a seafaring couple who opened their tasting room in 1996. Their aim is to produce wines made from the lesser-known Washington state varietals along with more mainstream selections. The name FairWinds stems from the old maritime saying, “Fair winds and following seas.” Eaglemount Wine & Cider is located in the Chimacum Valley, about 14 miles from Port Townsend, a drive that takes you through beautiful farmland. They make four red wines from grapes grown in Washington. And speaking of Washington, the luscious land known for its apple harvest, those looking to taste crisp fresh hard cider can ▼ Continued on page 20 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Shanghai Chinese

Visit us at: 265 Hudson Street Port Townsend


Chef Lee

11am - 10pm 7 Days a Week

Fine Hunan & Szechuan Cuisine prepared by Master Chef Lee We serve Beer, Wine & Sake in the restaurant.

Excellent Waterfront View of the Straits from Point Hudson! No MSG used • Orders to go NEW! “Vietnamese Pho & Spring Rolls” A local favorite for 26 years!

FREE delivery to your home hotel or RV (within city limits) $20 min.

Located in the Historic Point Hudson Marina in Port Townsend • 360-385-4810


In the Boat Yard • 307 10th St. • 379-5516 •

Purveyors of Retail/Wholesale

Fresh Meats • Seafood • Poultry Visit our Fish Taco Stand & Retail Store and our Fine Dining Restaurant! Restaurant



Located in the historic Manresa Castle • 360.379.1990 •

pourhouse Open 7 Days a Week • 12 pm - 10 pm 2231 Washington Street • 360-379-5586 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader




Enjoy 12 rotating taps, cider, extensive wine by the glass, and 200 bottled beers for take out or to enjoy in our taproom and beer garden. On Port Townsend Bay at the mouth of boat haven, our beer garden features a petanque court, concrete ping pong table and views of the Cascades and the Olympics.

Peninsula Cideri c i p es m y l O alpenfire cider 360.379.8915

eaglemount winery & cidery finnriver farm 360.732.4084 & cidery 360.732.6822

2012 Getaway ✷ 19

Tasting Continued from page 18








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★ Finnriver Farm

Eaglemount Wine & Cider 2350 Eaglemount Road Port Townsend 360-732-4084 Wine studio hours: Friday through Sunday, and holidays (except Christmas) from noon to 6 p.m. Brinnon During the week by appointment.

Finnriver Farm & Cidery 62 Barn Swallow Road Chimacum 360-732-6822 Tasting-room hours: From October to April Parad the tasting room is open Friday, Saturday and i Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. From May to September Shine room is open Thursday through the tasting Tidelands Monday, noon to 5 p.m. Tastings cost $5 per State Park person, and the fee is waived with a bottle purchase. Shared tastings are allowed. .

oo Rd. FairWinds Winery Old Tarb 1984 Hastings Ave. W.Coyle Rd. Shine Port Townsend 360-385-6899 Quilcene Tasting-room hours: Open daily fromSouth Memorial Point Day to Labor Day, noon to 5 p.m. From September to May, open Friday through Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.

Eaglemount Wine & Cider 2350 Eaglemount Road Port Townsend 360-732-4084 Wine studio hours: Friday through Sunday, and holidays (except Christmas) from noon to 6 p.m. During the week by appointment.

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Naval Magazine Indian Island

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20 ✷ 2012 Getaway

★ ★


Pourhouse 2231 Washington Street Port Townsend 360-379-5586 Taproom hours: Noon to 10 p.m.


Port Townsend Brewing Company 330 10th St. Port Townsend 360-385-9967 Tasting-room hours: Call for times.

Sorensen Cellars 274 Otto St., Bldg. S FairWinds Port Townsend Winery Pourhouse Hastings F St. 360-379-6416 Ca Marrowstone pe PT Ge org Tasting-room hours: March through November, Island e Brewing Alpenfire open Friday through Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. From Cider Sorensen June through August, open daily, noon to 5 p.m. Cellars Port Townsend

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Breweries and Taprooms

Eaglemount Wine & Cider in the Chimacum Valley about 14 miles from Port Townsend crafts red wine and hard cider. Courtesy photo

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find anything they need in our neck of the woods. Finnriver Farm is located in Chimacum Valley. Along with berries and other produce, the farm offers sparkling hard ciders, dessert wines and liqueurs. Finnriver’s Artisan Sparkling Cider and Farmstead Sparkling Cider are both pressed and handcrafted on the farm from wild homestead and organic Washington apples. Eaglemount Wine & Cider produces four varieties of cider: Homestead, Cyser, Protection Ginger and Perry. Its Homestead CiderIsland is made from heirloom-variety apples grown in Eaglemount’s homestead orchard, other old orchards and from its new cider-apple orchard. It is available in dry, semi-sweet and sweet. The Cyser Cider is a hard cider fermented and sweetened with honey. The Ginger Cider is made of the same hard cider as the Homestead but with organic ginger flavor. Perry Cider is a semi-sweet, slightly carbonated cider crafted from organically grown pears. Alpenfire Cider is located about nine miles west of town, and offers Washington’s only certified organic hard cider, as well as vinegar. Alpenfire Cider’s choices range from Spark Bittersweet to Organic Pirate’s Plank “Bone Dry” Cider, Organic Ember Semi-Sweet Cider and Organic Apfelwein made in the German tradition.

Alpenfire Cider 220 Pocket Lane Port Townsend Lofall 360-379-8915 Tasting-room hours: Call for times.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

“The fast food that’s not fast food!”

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Waterfront views 1019 Water Street 360-379-FISH (3474)


Come see us!

real tea, proper scones and clotted cream life is good opening summer 2012 636 water st., port townsend • 360.385.6060 • The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Port Ludlow

Friday Market

May 11 thru Sept. 28 • 9 am - 2 pm Farm Fresh Goods & Bakery Items Crafts•Fresh Flowers•Food & More! Behind the Port Ludlow Village Store • 40 Village Way for more information, call


2012 Getaway ✷ 21

Our Wild Friends ▼

Birds, Whales, Game Your getaway to the Olympic Peninsula comes complete with all of nature’s wonder, including its wildlife. From the comfort of your car or your hiking boots, enjoy and respect our wild friends – on land, in the sea and in the air. Recreational fishing, shrimping, crabbing and clam digging, and hunting opportunities abound, just don’t forget to get your appropriate Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife licenses. The first four-legged wild creatures you may encounter are black-tailed deer. Yes, sometimes their fur seems shaggy and in poor condition. Yes, the “city deer” in Port

A juvenile humpback whale frolics within the Dabob Bay Natural Area Preserve off Broadspit near Hood Canal. Orcas or gray whales are more common in Hood Canal and the Salish Sea than humpback whales. Photo by Connie Gallant, Greenfleet Monitoring Expeditions 22 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Mama seals often leave their pups (spotted skin) alone on the shoreline for up to 24 hours. Do not worry, and do not touch or move the pups. Photo by Jan North

Townsend are everywhere (the dog leash law is enforced), and that is why many gardens are protected by tall fences. Although you probably won’t see cougars and bobcats, be advised they are around. There are no recent cases of humans here being attacked by cougars, but domestic livestock (including cows, goats and sheep) have been stalked and killed. The Roosevelt elk (males sometimes weigh 1,000 pounds) here are part of the nation’s largest unmanaged herd. The Dungeness/Dosewallips herd ranges from Brinnon along Hood Canal to the meadows around Sequim. Elk tend to stay in the lowlands in the winter and move to the high country in summer. Black bears here are strictly black – no brown varieties, as seen in other ranges. They usually stick to the forests, venturing into the meadows near the timberline in summer. About 300 mountain goats live in Olympic National Park. Be wary: A hiker died in 2010 after being attacked and gored by an aggressive ram near Hurricane Ridge, the only known fatal attack in the park’s history. Those mangy-looking dogs you may see are actually coyotes. It is not uncommon to see coyotes within the city limits. They won’t bother you, but your small dog could be at risk if left to roam alone. A word to the wise – do not feed the raccoons. They are not your friends, and once they get a taste of human food (or cat food)

they will keep coming back to demand more. Be alert for these campsite intruders, who know how to open coolers. Bird watching is a year-round attraction here, thanks to our location on the migratory flyway. (Please, do not disturb beach birds, as they may be nesting.) American bald eagles are common across the Olympic Peninsula. Eagle populations have strengthened over the past few years. Throughout the Pacific Northwest, gulls and other bird colonies have taken a hit as eagles target eggs and chicks. There are plenty of glaucous-winged gulls around here. Gull poop is highly acidic and eats through the clear coat on a vehicle’s paint job, so it is wise to remove droppings as soon as possible. The Port Townsend Marine Science Center offers cruises to Protection Island, a federal bird sanctuary that 85 bird species call home, along with sea lions and elephant seals. Along the beach, please stay away from seal pups. The mama seals often leave their pups (spotted skin) alone for up to 24 hours. Do not worry, and do not touch or move the pups. Orca whales are the largest mammals around. Puget Sound Express operates a passenger ferry out of Point Hudson with more than 30 years of whale watching expertise. Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife Licensing information The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

U Rebecca Wexler Buyers • Sellers • Investors

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Step Back in Time IN NEAH BAY • • Sit in a cedar longhouse, hear the songs, the drumming • Learn about Makah culture through hundreds of artifacts from ancient Ozette Village • See replicas of whaling & sealing canoes

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corner of Kearney & Sims 360 385-2883 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 23

Port Townsend Marrowstone Island Port Hadlock Chimacum

✶ ✶

Port Ludlow

Explore Jefferson County’s backroads and discover why we’re proud to call this place home

MARROWSTONE ISLAND is the home of protected harbors, wild beaches, Fort Flagler State Park, a public boat launch and a quaint country store.


• Tractor Days on Memorial Day Sunday – a celebration of Marrowstone’s rural heritage. • Strawberry Festival, June 18 – sponsored by the Marrowstone Island Community Association. • Harvest Festival, October – good old fashioned country fun at the Nordland General store. • Annual Polar Bear Dip – Jan. 1.

PORT HADLOCK comes in two parts, upper and lower. Lower Port Hadlock is home to the Ajax Café and the Northwest School of Wooden Boat Building. Upper Hadlock is the commercial center, with grocery stores, restaurants, hardware and the iconic Valley Tavern.


• July 14-15: Hadlock Days – the area’s premiere summer festival, features a parade, booths, local music and souped up lawnmowers racing at breakneck speeds around the oval.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 24

PORT LUDLOW is home to waterfront dining and a boutique Inn at the Resort at Port Ludlow. The well-protected bay is a welcome anchorage and includes a full service marina. Championship golf, miles of hiking trails and a thriving arts community complete the scene.


• Port Ludlow Farmer’s Market – Fridays, May through September, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the Village Center at Oak Bay & Paradise Bay Roads. Features fresh produce and crafts. • Festival by the Bay, July 27, 28, 29 – A three day event with craft booths, art gallery, car show, food court, tennis event, golf tournament, fun on the water, live music and fireworks.

CHIMACUM is the agricultural heart of Jefferson County. The rich valley farm land supports wineries, cideries, blueberries, and a wide range of produce. Check out the offerings at the Chimacum Corner Farm stand, which is stocked to the gills with local treats.


• Chimacum Farmer’s Market – Sundays, May to October, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Located at the crossroads of Highway 19 and Chimacum Road. Features fresh produce, crafts and live music. • Farm Tour – Sunday, Sept. 16. Visit our local growers. • 360-385-7869 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 25

Tri-Area, Marrowstone ▼

Bikes, Beaches, Mowers Almost any getaway to Jefferson County brings you through the crossroads known as the Tri-Area, made up of Port Hadlock, Irondale and Chimacum, with access to Marrowstone Island. A top-five list of things to do and see in the Tri-Area include: 1) a walk, picnic or soccer game at H.J. Carroll Park; 2) a visit to Lower Hadlock (the waterfront); 3) hamburgers served at Bloomer’s Landing; 4) visiting the Chimacum Corner Farmstand and adjacent Sunday farmers market, or a U-pick berry farm in Chimacum Valley; and 5) mountain bike riding at Anderson Lake State Park (Discover Pass required). Chimacum is named for the Chimakum Tribe. The Chimacum Valley (and nearby Beaver Valley and Center Valley) were once home to many dairy farms. Farming is making a comeback in the form of organic and other growing operations. H.J. Carroll Park is located along Highway 19 near Chimacum School. The day-use facility has a BMX bike track, horseshoe pits, hard-surface basketball court, softball diamond, a playfield, restrooms, walking path, picnic shelters and a trail to Chimacum Creek. Anderson Lake State Park and Gibbs Lake County Park are two Chimacumarea parks popular with mountain bike riders. At Anderson Lake, five of the six trail systems are open to bikes. In addition, Gibbs Lake County Park is usually a great freshwater swimming hole. Irondale was the site of an ore- and 26 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Mowers from across the United States are coming to the Port Hadlock Mower Speedway, July 14-15, 2012. Photo by Nicholas Johnson

A Boeing Co. surplus nosecone is a Tri-Area landmark, and home to Bloomer’s Landing, winner of the “Best Burger” category in the local “Best Foods” contest. Photo by Tami Hewitt

steel-processing mill from the 1880s to 1912. Few signs of the historic buildings remain, but you can check out the waterfront at Irondale Beach Park – bring your kayak to navigate Chimacum Creek. Port Hadlock was named after Samuel Hadlock, who established the lumber mill town in 1867. Today, Lower Hadlock is the

waterfront site of the growing Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding campus. Guided tours are offered Monday and Friday at 10:30 a.m., or call 360-385-4948 to schedule a tour. Hadlock Days is the traditional community celebration, complete with parade. This is the sixth year the Port Hadlock Mower Speedway has hosted lawnmower races; about 80 mowers are expected July 14-15 for the American Racing Mower Association national points series event. (Call Lloyd Crouse at 206-817-8045 for more information.) Highway 116 takes you across Portage Canal Bridge to Indian Island and Marrowstone Island. Naval Magazine Indian Island is home to the U.S. Navy’s most strategic ordnance storage facility on the West Coast – supply ships, warships and submarines come and go from the area. Marrowstone Island’s offerings include Mystery Bay, Nordland and historic Fort Flagler State Park, a great location for camping, picnics, boating, biking and beach walks. Yes, a sweep of the Tri-Area makes your getaway complete. Trail map of Anderson Lake State Park Leader bike map on pdf/ftp Port Hadlock Mower Speedway home_page.php

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Aurora Aircraft Maintenance (formerly dba Tailspin Tommy’s)

Port Townsend Aero Museum The museum contributes to our vibrant community & preserves aviation history in the Pacific Northwest. Large collection of aircraft, aviation art and models on display.

300 Airport Road, Port Townsend, WA 98368

Scott Erickson – A&P, I.A., Pilot

Open Wed.- Sun.: 9am to 4pm $10 admission • Children under 7 - FREE


Jefferson County International Airport

Jefferson County Airport • Port Townsend • 360-379-5244 Visit us online

Your Locally Owned, Friendly, Full-Service Pharmacy! • We bill most insurances • We stock favorite over-the-counter health products Your friendly pharmacy staff: Deb, Rey and Patty

Mon-Fri: 8:30am-6pm, Sat: 8:30am-2pm

Tri-Area Pharmacy View this and other fine Leader publications online! VIEW DOWNLOAD PRINT SHARE

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scan to visit our website

360-379-9800 • 65 Oak Bay Road (in Kively Center) • Port Hadlock

Beach Cottages

10 BEACH DR • NORDLAND, WA 1-800-871-3077 LAT: 48° 04.63 LONG: W.122° 42.72


A place where one can find peace and sanctuary, lost in a tranquil world, surrounded by water and mountains. Private Beach & Tidelands Come explore! 2012 Getaway ✷ 27

Port Ludlow welcomes you ▼

Village by a Bay The numbers are in Port Ludlow’s favor. Number one: The resort and retirement community is easy to reach – only a ferry ride and 45 miles from downtown Seattle. Secondly, there are more than 200 days of sunshine a year – how’s that for a second reason to make Port Ludlow a destination on your Olympic Peninsula getaway? Hiking trails, flyfishing and a 300slip marina with on-the-water opportunities for non-boat owners create a perfect trifecta of outdoor activities. “Fore!” The 18-hole Port Ludlow Golf Course draws golfers for a pleasant day (or overnight) trip, with a championship-quality course with awesome views. It is open to the public. Rounding out the top five things about this Jefferson County community is the Resort at Port Ludlow. The wellappointed 37-unit Inn at Port Ludlow includes more than 3,000 square feet of meeting space for conferences, weddings and other events. Pacific Northwest cuisine is served at the Fireside Restaurant, with a larger wine cellar than any other area restaurant. Everyone is welcome at Festival by the Bay, July 27-29, with family games, vendors, music, food, golf, tennis and other entertainment. Back, by popular demand, is Freddy Pink for the Saturday, July 28 evening outdoor concert. The Port Ludlow Festival Association gives proceeds to the Chimacum Schools Education Foundation and Olympic Community Action Programs. 28 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Renting kayaks at the Port Ludlow Marina is one way visitors and locals can enjoy Port Ludlow Bay. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

This is an active community, with residential neighborhood associations in South Bay and North Bay. Mix with the locals on the five-mile Timberton Trail Loop, located off Paradise Bay Road on Timberton Drive. Numbered rocks along the trail help orient hikers. Another comfortable walk is the short Ludlow Falls Interpretive Trail; parking is available at Port Ludlow Village Center. North Bay offers the Rainier Loop Trail. The Port Ludlow Fly Fishing Club has improved Teal Lake Park, located in the woods south of town. The park’s fishing dock is wheelchair-accessible. Birding is something people enjoy on purpose and by happenstance; look for the red-necked grebe, Pacific loon, surf scooter and our majestic osprey, bald eagles and great blue herons. The town’s business center is known as Port Ludlow Village. Check out the Friday Farmers Market, which is open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. seasonally at Port Ludlow Village Center. Port Ludlow was founded in 1842 by explorer Charles Wilkes and named for naval officer Augustus C. Ludlow. The

first lumber mill was built in 1852 and was acquired 27 years later by Andrew Jackson Pope and William C. Talbot. Ludlow was a mill town until 1935. Wooden sailing ships also were built here. Port Ludlow became a master planned resort community in 1968 and has appeared on many “best places to retire” lists. It is also a pleasant place to live while commuting to work on “the other side” and a destination that’s well worth a visit. Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitor Center 93 Beaver Valley Road, Port Ludlow, 98365 360-437-0120 olympic-peninsula-gatewayvisitor-center The Resort at Port Ludlow 877-805-0868

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Nancy Rody

Cindy Elstrom

Nancy Cherry Eifert

Tom Stewart

Robin McKann

Ann Arscott

Marie Delaney

Chuck Stern

Puzzles, games & other fun stuff Something for everyone

Sandra Offutt

Laurie Dokken

Welcome to the

FLAGSHIP LANDING All this in one location on the water 1000 Block, downtown, Port Townsend

Open 7 days a week 1013 Water St., Port Townsend 360-379-1278 Toll free: 888-750-2209 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Sandra Smith-Poling

Modern & Estate Jewelry • Repairs Open Daily 10 - 5, Closed Sunday

PERSONALIZE IT! Affordable Papers & Gifts Custom Imprinting The largest collection of beautiful cards and papers in Port Townsend!


Located in Port Townsend’s Historic Victorian Seaport

1017-A Water St., Port Townsend

360-302-0427 2012 Getaway ✷ 29

Tour North Hood Canal ▼

Pearl of a Place There is so much to experience along North Hood Canal in Jefferson County, and here are five sure-fire things for visitors and locals alike: 1) Fresh shellfish. Quilcene is the pearl of the Olympic Peninsula. Hood Canal oysters, clams, geoducks, shrimp and more are famous worldwide; look for them on the Olympic Culinary Loop. 2) Swimming in Hood Canal is a lot warmer than Salish Sea saltwater; check out the sandy beach and offshore float at the public swimming area next to Herb Beck Marina. 3) Plan ahead for a camping reservation at Dosewallips State Park along the river in Brinnon, a great home base for scuba diving, fishing or Olympic Mountain outings. 4) The annual Quilcene Community Fair returns this Sept. 15 with parade, fun run, carnival, antler show and a car show that features a horsepower tire burnout demonstration. 5) Year around, the Whitney Gardens

Relax at the public swimming beach at Herb Beck Marina in Quilcene. 30 ✷ 2012 Getaway

U.S. Highway 101 along Hood Canal makes for a great road trip, with many places to visit along the way, including the Twana Roadhouse in Quilcene. Photos by Patrick J. Sullivan

& Nursery is Brinnon’s 7-acre delight of color. See the Pacific Northwest’s best array of rhododendron hybrids and species, plus outdoor light displays during holiday seasons (with a million lights set up for Christmas). The Quilcene Historical Society Museum has a must-see collection from the pioneer days. For a stunning panoramic view, gaze down on Puget Sound from 2,730-foot Mount Walker. The gravel road is narrow and not recommended for trailers, but is OK for most cars – or take the two-mile hike. The Quilcene River system feeds salmon – visit the National Fish Hatchery along U.S. Highway 101 – and Port Townsend’s public water supply. New this year to Quilcene’s business community is the Village Store gas station. The Olympic Art Gallery hosts its annual Olympic Art Festival on May 26. Elwell P. Brinnon built the first homestead along the Duckabush River about six miles south of present-day Brinnon, a time when ferries served the canal. Rivers pouring from the Olympic Mountains may offer excellent fishing, but they’re too rugged for water sports. A herd of Roosevelt elk is part of the landscape in Brinnon. Sorry, no Brinnon ShrimpFest on Memorial Day in 2012 but organizers hope it returns in 2013. Public restrooms are available at the Brinnon Visitor Center (360-796-4350). Hood Canal is the only natural fjord

on America’s West Coast south of Alaska, and boaters must take tidal change into account. Pleasant Harbor Marina, just south of Brinnon, has a 285-slip deep-water facility offering transient and permanent moorage. The marina hosts special celebrations on Memorial Day and the Fourth of July. There is a public boat launch at Triton Cove, near the Jefferson County line. Be sure to access Olympic National Forest trails and scenic (gravel road) drives. Get more information at the Hood Canal District Ranger Station in Quilcene (360-765-2200), which also hosts a visitor center in cooperation with the North Hood Canal Chamber of Commerce. So whether you make the effort to bike the highway, hike to the top of 6,280-foot Mount Townsend, or explore the bottom of Hood Canal with your shrimp pot or in your dive gear, have fun!

Dosewallips State Park reservations 360-796-4415 Quilcene Visitor Center North Hood Canal Chamber of Commerce Olympic Culinary Loop

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

UPtown send

If you haven’t been Uptown, you haven’t been to Port Townsend

Perfect Season



Flower Shop

Flowers Gifts & Garden We deliver daily



Vasu Video We’ve got a little bit of everything


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for home & garden q 1024 Lawrence Street



Fabric Notions Ribbon

360-385-3299 1004 Lawrence Street In the back of Potpourri

Pamper yourself! Since 1895

Sweet Laurette Café & Bistro

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Grocery Meat & Seafood Produce Wine & Beer Marketplace Deli & Ohana Sushi

Massage Facials Makeup Waxing Body Wraps and more!

Supplements Skincare Locally made Snacks & Gifts

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Lawrence Street •Port Townsend The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 31

Learn the lingo ▼

Sailing Vessels: rigs vary Propelled by sail.

Boats 101 Port Townsend has built a reputation as the West Coast’s wooden boat capital, thanks to the sailors, shipwrights and associated craftspeople – and dreamers. When it comes to wooden boats, here are five things you should know: 1) Traditional boat-building skills are learned at the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding in Port Hadlock, a world-class center. Tours are available. 2) The Northwest Maritime Center/Wooden Boat Foundation’s annual Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival this Sept. 7-9 draws several hundred wooden boats, from kayaks to tugs. 3) Check out the Northwest Maritime Center – the big yellow and red buildings along Port Townsend’s waterfront. Walk into the boat shop and look around, ask about informational and instructional classes, rowing and sailing programs. 4) Visit the Pilot House upstairs in the NWMC, which this year is being updated with the same navigational equipment as what’s on the commercial freighters passing through Admiralty Inlet. 5) Walk the docks at Point Hudson Marina and the Port of Port Townsend Boat Haven. Ask questions; that is the only way a landlubber learns the ways of the sea. Here is the Wooden Boat Foundation’s description of classic wooden vessels seen year-round on Port Townsend Bay:

Cutter A single-masted sailing boat with multiple headsails made possible by bowsprit and inner forestays. [English origin, from boats used to cut off smugglers between England and France in the 1800s.]

Ketch Human-Powered Vessels

Primarily built for rowing propulsion and designed to accommodate oars, paddles or sculls. Examples include single-seat up to eight-seat shells and longboats.

≈ Original art by Larry Eifert 32 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Motor Vessels

Propelled by motor, with gasoline, diesel or electric engines.

A two-masted sailing boat with the steering rudder and station behind both masts. [Middle English cache, from cacchen, to catch.]

Schooner A sailing boat with multiple sails and two to seven masts. Schooners can lie closer to the wind than squarerigged sailing ships, use a smaller crew and are very fast. [English, named and made popular in colonial America.]

Sloop A single-masted sailing boat with a single headsail. [Dutch sloep, from Middle Dutch slupen, to glide.] ˉ

Northwest Maritime Center


Heavily built hulls, capable of handling rough seas.

Yawl A two-masted sailing boat, with larger mast forward and the aft mast (called the mizzen mast) behind the steering rudder and station. [Dutch jol, possibly from Low German jolle.]

Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding 42 N. Water St., Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-385-4948

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Local, Sustainable Food Exceptional, Professional Catering

Weddings • Conferences • Special Events Join us for our annual holiday events: Easter Brunch, Mother’s Day, Thanksgiving Dinner Featuring great local producers: Midori Farms • Dharma Ridge Farms • Finnriver Farms Cape Cleare Salmon • Shorts Family Farm Beef • Red Dog Farm

Café | Events | Catering

360-344-4441 | |

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 33

Lifelong Learning Center ▼

Fort Worden Fort Worden State Park needs to be at or near the top of your list when visiting Port Townsend and the Olympic Peninsula. With more than 1.2 million visitors each year, it is the second most visited state park in Washington, behind only Deception Pass on nearby Whidbey Island. Three easy things to do at Fort Worden: play, relax and learn. Absorb and enjoy the natural history, marine science, music, dance, poetry, art, woodworking, higher education, military history and so much more. Pitch a tent or hook up your RV. Enjoy 12 miles of walking/bicycling roads and trails (five miles are ADA accessible). Launch a boat (kayak rentals available in season), walk the beaches or suit up for the underwater dive park. Fort Worden’s story is not just local – it is international, and that explains how this place came to be. Naval forces were the greatest threat to American shores when Fort Worden and her “sister” U.S. Army Coast Artillery forts were designed. The Coast Defenses of Puget Sound were led by Fort Flagler (1897) on Marrowstone Island, Fort Casey (1897) on Whidbey Island and Fort Worden (1898) on the Olympic Peninsula. This “triangle of fire” guarded Puget Sound’s entrance. Fort Worden’s guns never fired a shot in anger. Airplanes made the fortifications obsolete. Fort Worden, in 1953, became the last of the forts to close (learn more at the Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum). 34 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Fort Worden State Park is a “lifelong learning center” for people of all ages. It is also a great place to walk, bike, camp and relax. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

In 1956, the federal government put the property up for auction. Port Townsend civic leaders intervened – Fort Worden had been a huge economic and social influence since it opened – and the governor got the sale halted. Instead, the Department of Public Institutions got involved and the Fort Worden Diagnostic and Treatment Center treated juvenile boys (and some girls) from 1958 to 1971. The property was transferred to the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission in 1972, and Fort Worden State Park and Conference Center was born. The four months of May, June, July and August are particularly busy at Fort Worden, but special activities take place here year-round, indoors and outdoors. Centrum is a national pioneer in providing adult workshops led by acclaimed musicians and artists, along with special children’s programs. The Port Townsend Marine Science Center is a leader in monitoring the Salish Sea, including its ongoing Orca Project. Kids (and adults) love the touch tanks. Copper Canyon Press has won every major publishing award for poetry. The fort’s educational focus includes Peninsula College (a state institution), Goddard College and the Port Townsend School of Woodworking,

which attracts students from around the world. The historic Point Wilson Lighthouse (1913) is federal property. Although decommissioned in the 1980s, tours are available through the local U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary. Volunteers are the heart and soul of Fort Worden, helping the public, private and nonprofit entities continue. Your help is welcome. The state Legislature’s budget decisions have brought staff reductions at most state parks. A Discover Pass (daily or annual) is required to bring a vehicle onto state recreation lands, including parks. About five years has been spent in a public process on how best to enhance Fort Worden, and the focus now is on being a lifelong learning center. The Fort Worden Public Development Authority has emerged in Port Townsend and asked Washington State Parks for the ability to comanage or manage at least the main campus. The state Parks and Recreation Commission could decide by the end of 2012. Fort Worden State Park 200 Battery Way Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-344-4400

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader



Come. Dance. Smile. Play. Stay.

Be inspired!

Classes for Beginners to Master Craftsmen

Immerse yourself in a retreat, workshop, or teacher training, or drop in for a massage or movement class. Hand Tool Woodworking - Furniture Making Wood Turning - NW Coast Arts Gypsy Wagons - Cabinet Making

MADRONA MINDBODY INSTITUTE Located at Fort Worden 360.344.4475

Learn by touch On the Fort Worden beach the Marine Science Center brings you the undersea world

✓ Touch tanks ❑ ✓ Mammal ❑ ✓ Orca songs Skeletons ❑


Come visit the


Located at Fort Worden State Park The Harbor Entrance Control Facing the parade ground next to the Park HQ Post on top of Artillery Hill Open 11 am - 4 pm, 7 Days a Week, Year-round Open Saturdays 11 am-3 pm Fridays & Saturdays, July & August 10 am - 5 pm June, July & August Small admission fee SPECIAL GROUP TOURS, CALL 360-385-0373 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Summer Festival Schedule

Fort Worden State Park June 28-30 Voice Works June 30 Country Roots & Bluegrass Featuring Tim O’Brien July 4 -7 The Festival of American Fiddle Tunes

Also: Natural History Museum


Experience LIVE

July 8-22 Port Townsend Writers’ Conference July 26 – 28 Jazz Port Townsend Aug 3-5 Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival Aug 12 Season Finale with Los Lobos Visit Us at Tickets 1-800-746-1982 2012 Getaway ✷ 35

check this out ▼

Experience PT! Now that you’re here, these are some of the must-see points of interest and things to experience in Port Townsend. Architecture: Fine craftsman-built examples of architecture, including Victorian and Greek Revival. Folks live and work in these homes, commercial and government buildings dating from the 1800s and early 1900s. See a self-guided Historic Site Tour Map on pages 72-73. Downtown National Historic District: Pioneers settled this narrow, sea-level spot in 1851. Ship captains from around the world came to this port. Port Townsend is still a working waterfront, but with an artistic twist. Downtown hosts art galleries, antique stores, unique shops and many great restaurants, coffeehouses and pubs. Rent a kayak. Walk a public dock. Enjoy more than a dozen parades and other special events each year. Uptown National Historic District: Victorian ladies shopped and lived here to avoid the rough-and-tumble waterfront district. Today, seniors and kids share a community center. Farmers markets take place on Saturdays and Wednesdays just a set of stairs and two blocks up from downtown. From day spa to market to theater, you can indulge, dine and enjoy Uptown businesses.

Take a walk on or near the beach, including this section of Larry Scott Memorial Trail. 36 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Parades, protests, music and dance, arts and crafts fairs, sailboat races: enjoy it all along Port Townsend’s waterfront. Photos by Patrick J. Sullivan

rine science knowledge are built. Point Hudson: Find your Historians teach and tour. best public beach access here, Kid stuff: Toddlers have a where Capt. George Vancouver new playground at waterfront came ashore in 1792. Native Pope Marine Park. Bikers and Americans camped here; Coast ’boarders roll at the skate park Guard trainees and soldiers downtown. Teens (and younger) were on duty here. Most of the absolutely love to explore Fort area is now owned by the public The Jefferson County Worden’s old concrete gun emport district. You can row, Courthouse (1891). placements. Check out ptleader. paddle or sail with Northwest com for a weekly “things to do” Maritime Center/Wooden Boat list that includes children’s library activities. Foundation programs. Puget Sound Express offers passenger ferry service to And there’s always the beach! Chetzemoka Park: Choose your piece the San Juan Islands, and whale-watching of sunshine or shade, grassy lawn, gazebo tours. or picnic table. Walk through the rose arbor, Beach access: “Footprint” symbols walk the beach. Run your dog off leash at on the map lead you to easy public beach a special park next door. Learn how the access. Wildlife uses these beaches, too, so city’s first public park, established in 1905, please stay clear of beached seal pups and was named that year for S’Klallam Chief don’t let your dogs chase birds. Saltwater Chetzemoka. swimming is OK. Just know that Port Theaters: Thespians are on stage at Townsend Bay has an average temperature Key City Public Theatre located downtown. of about 54 degrees Fahrenheit. Motion pictures play at the classic Rose Walk or pedal: Experience this pedesTheatre, also downtown (PT Film Festival trian- and bike-friendly community. Look for “public trail” signs. The self-guided Port is each September), the historic Uptown Theatre in Uptown, and the vintage WheelTownsend Walking Map and a Quimper In Motor Movie just off the highway about Peninsula Bicycle Map are available at three miles south of town. City Hall, the visitor center and various Park-and-Ride: Now that you’ve driven businesses. here, consider parking at the Haines Place Fort Worden State Park: Starting in Park-and-Ride just off the city’s main 1902, Army Coast Artillery soldiers kept entrance. People with RVs and other large watch here, and in the 1960s, it was home to the Fort Worden Juvenile Diagnostic and vehicles should park here and take a shuttle bus downtown. The Jefferson County Treatment Center. Now, many musicians, Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center is writers, dancers and artists create here. located here. It’s next to Kah Tai Lagoon Campers, boaters, divers, sunbathers and Nature Park, a bird-watching favorite. beach walkers relax. Sandcastles and maThe Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Strait of Juan de Fuca

North Beach County Park

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Skate Park

City Dock

Maritime Dock


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Mt. View Commons Police Station & Swimming Pool

Grant Street Elementary

Urgent Care


Port Townsend High School

Port Townsend Golf Course

19 TH

Upper Sims Way

Chetzemoka Park






Whale Watching & Passenger Ferry to the San Juan Islands






Happy Valley


Dundee Hill


McGarraugh Park





Blue Heron Middle School

Marine Science Center

Coast Artillery Museum






Jefferson County Fairgrounds




Dive Park


49 TH



Fort Worden State Park

North Beach



yard Ship Port of Port Townsend

Beach access

Points of Interest

Boat launch




Off-leash dog park

Walking trails

Moorage Port Townsend Paper Corporation

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 37

Port Angeles to Victoria ferry Coho ferry terminal

West Visitor Info Centers Olympic National Park Visitor Center
 3002 Mount Angeles Road, Port Angeles, WA 98362 360-565-3130 Forks Chamber of Commerce (Twilight tour center) 360-374-2531 Port Angeles Regional Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center 121 Railroad Ave., Port Angeles, WA 98362 360-452-2363 Sequim-Dungeness Valley Chamber of Commerce 1192 E. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 360-683-6197, 800-737-8462

Check the Tide When the tide is out, the table is set. When the tide comes in, you could be trapped. For your safety, consult a tide table. Tide Table for Olympic National Park

From Port Townsend Sequim 35 miles Port Angeles 47 miles Hurricane Ridge 68 miles Victoria, B.C. 73 miles Forks 102 miles La Push 120 miles Neah Bay 122 miles Kalaloch Beach 129 miles Hoh Rain Forest 138 miles Lake Quinault 165 miles

Finding tsunami debris from Japan The Japan Tsunami Marine Debris Joint Information Center (disasterdebris.wordpress. com) is a collaborative effort between U.S. and Canadian agencies to manage marine debris from the March 2011 earthquake and tsunami in Japan. Debris landfall on North America’s West Coast is expected, but exactly when, how much and in what form is still speculation. Protocols are

being developed for the safe and respectful removal of debris.

Tsunami evacuation routes posted The Olympic Peninsula is a tsunami-risk zone. The state Emergency Management Division has a pole-mounted siren system deployed throughout Washington’s coast and some inland waterways. Please note the blue roadside “evacuation route” signs leading to higher ground.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County L

Port Angeles to Victoria ferry

PS Express passenger ferry

ho ferry minal



zone. ion has a oughout terways. on route”

ort Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


state ferry

Visitor Info Centers Port Townsend Visitor Center (Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce) At Haines Place Parkand-Ride, across from Safeway 440 12th St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-2722, 888-ENJOYPT

state ferry

state ferry

Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitor Center At highway junction six miles from Hood Canal Bridge, 93 Beaver Valley Road (State Route 19), Port Ludlow, WA 98365 360-437-0120 website portal through

state ferry

From Port Townsend Port Ludlow 16 miles Quilcene 25 miles Kingston 33 miles Brinnon 37 miles Seattle 50 miles Tacoma 80 miles Olympia 92 miles Sea-Tac Airport 100 miles Vancouver, B.C. 122 miles Portland 222 miles

Quilcene Visitor Center (North Hood Canal Chamber of Commerce) Located in Olympic National Forest’s Quilcene Ranger District Office, 295142 Highway 101 P.O. Box 774, Quilcene, WA 98376 360-765-4999 Brinnon Visitor Center (North Hood Canal Chamber of Commerce) 306144 Highway 101, Brinnon, WA 98320 360-796-4350

Travel Links Washington State Department of Transportation lists traffic, ferries and bridge conditions. Call 511, 800-419-9085, Washington State Ferries Home Page, Schedules Dial 511, follow prompts 2012 Getaway ✷ 39

Port Townsend

Protection Island

Fort Worden State Park

Port TownsendCoupeville Ferry

Visitor Center

Cape George

Travel Links ▼

Passenger Ferry to San Juan Islands

Marrowstone Island Fort Flagler State Park

By Sea

Fort Townsend State Park

Naval Magazine Indian Island

Four Corners

Nordland Mystery Bay State Park

Irondale Port Anderson Lake Hadlock State Park

Gardiner S’Klallam Tribal Center

H.J. Carroll Park


. Rd . Beaver Valley Rd

Port Ludlow

Visitor Center

yR e Ba adis

Pa r

Shine Tidelands State Park


Dabob Rd.

Center Rd .

y Ba

Sandy Shore Lake

Coyle Rd .

Little Quilcen



Crocker Lake

Lake Leland



unt mo

Gibbs Lake

e st V al ley R

Ea gl e



Discovery Bay

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By Land

By Air

Big Quil

cene Riv er

To a nd os Pe n i n s u l a


Puget Sound Express offers passengeronly service from Port Townsend to Friday Harbor (San Juan Island) from March through the first week of October. 360-3855288, Washington State Ferries provides vehicle and passenger service. Check the schedule at For reservations on the Port Townsend-Coupeville route call WSF Customer Service at 1-888808-7977 (in state) or 206-464-6400, or 511, from 7 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. You must speak to an operator to make a reservation, or do it online at Port of Port Townsend offers boaters moorage and fuel. 800-228-2803, Nautical Search and Rescue Emergency: 206-217-6001 Jefferson Transit offers bus and parkand-ride service in Port Townsend. 360-3854777, Island Transit serves Whidbey Island. 800-240-8747, Peninsula Taxi serves Port Townsend. 360-385-1872


Visitor Center




Visitor Center

Dosewallips State Park

40 ✷ 2012 Getaway



Jefferson County International Airport is 6 miles south of Port Townsend. 360-385-2323, Goodwin Aviation provides flights between Jefferson County International Airport and Sea-Tac International Airport. 360-531-1727, Port Townsend Aircraft Services is located at Jefferson County International Airport, 191 Airport Road, Port Townsend, WA 98368 385-7770, The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Visit Jefferson County . . .

Our Olympic National Park • Our Pacific Beaches & Rain Forest Our Wild & Scenic Rivers • Our Historic & Emerald Towns

Port Ludlow • Port Hadlock • Chimacum • Marrowstone Island • Port Townsend Brinnon & Quilcene: Emerald Towns of the North Hood Canal Western Beaches & Rain Forest Country Click on DESTINATIONS at:

We are Jefferson County . . .

The Heart of the Olympics from Coast to Coast

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 41

Comp. Breakfast

Mtg Facilities




Great breakfast




B&B by the beach

Holly Hill House B&B • 611 Polk St, Port Townsend • 360-385-5619 • 800-435-1454 •




Inn at McCurdy House • 405 Taylor St, Port Townsend • 360-379-4824 •




Old Consulate Inn • 313 Walker St, Port Townsend • 360-385-6753 • 800-300-6753 •




Quimper Inn • 1306 Franklin St, Port Townsend • 360-385-1060 • 800-557-1060 •




Takaki House B&B - 1617 Washington St, Port Townsend • 360-385-9784 •




Thornton House • 1132 Garfield St, Port Townsend • 360-385-6670 •




Aladdin Motor Inn • 2333 Washington St, PT • 360-385-3747 • 800-281-3747 •




A Suite at the Fountain • 914 Washington St, Port Townsend • 360-643-1370 •




Ann Starrett Mansion • 744 Clay St, Port Townsend • 360-385-3205 • 800-321-0644 •




• •

Handicap Access

Rate (Max.)


Commanders Beach House • 400 Hudson St, PT • 360-385-1778 • 888-385-1778 •


Rate (Min.)

Blue Gull Inn B&B • 1310 Clay St, Port Townsend • 360-379-3241 • 888-700-0205 •

PT Bed & Breakfasts


# of Units

Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub




Warm hospitality


Private, relaxing retreat


Historic mansion


Views, quiet

Gallery, Private Getaway Historic Victorian farmhouse

PT Hotels & Motels •

Belmont, The • 925 Water St, Port Townsend • 360-385-3007 •




Bishop Victorian Hotel, The • 714 Washington St, PT • 360-385-6122 • 800-824-4738 •




Fort Worden State Park Conference Center • 200 Battery Way, PT 98368 • 360-344-4400 •




Harborside Inn • 330 Benedict St, Port Townsend • 360-385-7909 • 800-942-5960 •




Manresa Castle • 7th & Sheridan St, Port Townsend • 360-385-5750 • 800-732-1281 •




Palace Hotel • 1004 Water St, Port Townsend • 360-385-0773 • 800-962-0741 •




Port Townsend Inn • 2020 Washington St, PT • 360-385-2211 • 800-216-4985 •




Swan Hotel, The • 216 Monroe St, Port Townsend • 360-385-1718 • 800-824-4738 •




Tides Inn • 1807 Water St, Port Townsend • 360-385-0595 • 800-822-8696 •




Washington Hotel • 825 Washington St, Port Townsend • 360-774-0213 •




Waterstreet Hotel • 635 Water St, PT • 360-385-5467 • 800-735-9810 •







• •


View of bay Downtown, 2BR, kitchen

Victorian mansion

Classic old hotel


Distinctive suites

Houses: 1–11 bdrms

Water view–all rooms

Full service hotel

Victorian hotel


Motel near water


Cozy, seaside


Water view 1890s restored


PT Hostels & Dorms Fort Worden State Park Dormitories • 200 Battery Way, PT • 360-344-4400 •

Group Dorms

R=Restrictions • NOTE: Information subject to change without notice. It is advisable to contact lodging in advance. Lodging list produced with funding from Port Townsend and Jefferson County lodging tax funds • JANUARY 2009 BR5/5/09

42 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub

Handicap Access

Mtg Facilities

A Garden Cottage • 112 Umatilla Ave, Port Townsend • 360-643-3210 •




Bartlett House Cottage • 314 Polk Street, Port Townsend • 360-385-9451




Big Red Barn • 309 V St, Port Townsend 98368 • 360-301-1271 •




Dell’s Guesthouse at North Beach • 510 56th St, Port Townsend • 360-385-3783 •




Hammond House Cottage • 834 Pierce St, Port Townsend • 360-385-6269 •




Holcomb Hideaway • 1823 Holcomb St, Port Townsend • 360-531-0611 •




Hubers Inn • 1421 Landes St, Port Townsend • 360-385-3904 •




Inn at Waterfront Place • 632A Waterfront Place, Port Townsend • 360-385-6957 •




Katie’s Kottage • 475 W St, Port Townsend • 360-379-8261 •




Lookout, The • 419 Lawrence St, Port Townsend • 360-774-1904




Morgan Hill Guest House • 606 Roosevelt St, PT • 360-385-2536 • 800-490-9070 •




Pilot’s Seaside Cottage • 327 Jackson St, Port Townsend • 360-531-3968 •




Rainshadow Tourist Home • 609 58th St, Port Townsend • 360-531-0022 •




Sea Loft • 306 Lincoln St, Port Townsend • 360-385-1626 •




Quiet Uptown

Vestry at the Olde Church, The • 1510 Blaine St, Port Townsend • 360-379-9700






Historic 1890s/Closed Winter




Romantic getaway

Close to trails & beach

Water view


Weekly rates

Waterfront apartment

Garden setting

Private, view, fireplace


Uptown views Nautical setting North Beach, Ft Worden


Point Hudson Marina & RV Park • 103 Hudson St, Port Townsend • 800-228-2803 •





Handicap Access





Jefferson County Fair Grounds • 4907 Landes St, Port Townsend • 360-385-1013 •



Fort Townsend • 1370 Old Fort Townsend Rd, Port Townsend • 360-344-4400 •

View, private entrance



Luxury cottage R

Dump Station




Rate Range (Min.)

# of Sites


Fort Worden State Park • Port Townsend • 360-344-4400 •

PT RV/Camping








A Bungalow on the Bluff • 303 Fillmore St, PT • 800-385-1238 •

PT Vacation Rentals

Rate Range (Max.)

Rate (Max.)

Water views

Rate (Min.)


# of Units

Comp. Breakfast





Quiet, country


Beach, close to town

Description Beach or forest

R=Restrictions • NOTE: Information subject to change without notice. It is advisable to contact lodging in advance. Lodging list produced with funding from Port Townsend and Jefferson County lodging tax funds • JANUARY 2009 BR5/5/09

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 43






Houseboats4Two • 308913 Hwy 101, Brinnon • 360-796-3440 • 800-966-5942 •




Pleasant Harbor Marina House • 308913 Hwy 101, Brinnon • 360-796-4611 • 800-547-3479 •




Solstice Farm B&B • PO Box 135, Chimacum • 360-732-0174 •





• • •

Description Mountain view–river front

• •

Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub


Handicap Access





Mtg Facilities


Honey Moon Cabin on Marrowstone Island • Nordland • 509-630-2119 •


Harbor House • 309257 Hwy 101, Brinnon • 360-796-4064 • 360-951-5366 •

Comp. Breakfast


bed & breakfasts

Rate (Max.)

Elk Meadows • 3485 Dosewallips Rd, Brinnon • 360-796-4886 •

Rate (Min.)

# of Units



Secluded cabin

Romantic getaway

Marina view, quiet

Working farm

hotels & Motels Hadlock Motel • 181 Chimacum Rd, Port Hadlock • 360-385-3111 • 888-360-3111 •




Mount Walker Inn • PO Box 144, 61 Maple Grove Rd. Quilcene • 360-765-3410 •




Resort At Port Ludlow • One Heron Rd, Port Ludlow • 360-437-7000 • 877-805-0868 •




Adelma Beach Cabin • 262 Adelma Beach Rd, Port Townsend • 360-774-0213 •




Aerie House, 223 Aerie Lane, Port Townsend • 369-379-5779 •




Alegria Guest House • 4934 SR20, Port Townsend • 360-379-3695 •




An Inn Between • 5825 Old Gardiner Rd, Port Townsend • 360-379-8125 •





An Inn Between Two • 5821 Old Gardiner Rd, Port Townsend • 360-379-8125 •





Arcadia West Guest Nest • 389A Arcadia West, Port Townsend •360-381-5099 •




A Wolves’ Den • 269 N Jacob Miller Rd, Port Townsend • 360-316-9174 •




Bay Cottage • 4346 S. Discovery Rd, Port Townsend • 360-385-2035 •




Beach Cottages on Marrowstone • 10 Beach Dr, Nordland • 800-871-3077 •




Beach Getaway on Oak Bay • 101 Oak Rd, Port Hadlock • 360-437-2532 •




Beaver’s Pond Retreat • 3851 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow • 360-732-7148 •




Big Cedars Lodge • 12224 Airport Cutoff Rd, Port Townsend • 360-379-8752 •




Heart of Port Hadlock


Rustic comfort



Water view/golf/marina

Vacation rentals Located on beach Quiet, water view

Bluff House at Marrowstone Is. • 2500 E. Marrowstone, Nordland • 209-484-0099 •




Brinnon Gardens • 105 Schoolhouse Rd, Brinnon • 360-796-4886 •




Cabins at Treefrog Woods • 1280 Cape George Rd, Port Townsend • 360-379-0906 •




Cabin on the Canal • Near Pleasant Harbor Marina, Brinnon • 206-782-3868 •




Resort living R

Luxury cabin retreat Beautiful beach access

Chevy Chase Beach Cabins • 3710 S. Discovery Rd, PT • 360-385-1270 •




Cove RV Park • 303075 Highway 101, Brinnon • 360-796-4723




Crow’s Nest Cabin • 5073 Flagler Rd, Nordland • 360-385-4920 •




Dabob Bay Cottage • 840 Piper Rd, Quilcene • 360-765-3947 •




Eaglemount Rockery Cottages & Museum • 1822 SR 20, PT • 360-379-8922 •





Fairmount Beach House • 1071 Fairmount Rd, PT • 360-385-2480 •




Waterfront & views R

Waterfront home •

Hot tub, Fishing Lodge & 15 acres

Furnished cedar home •


Waterfront 3br/2ba waterfront home

• •

Water & mountan view •


3br, 5ac, gardens & event fac Private cabins Access to Hood Canal Beach


Private Beach 2 night min. Private Beach Beach access Free outdoor museum

Private beach

R=Restrictions • NOTE: Information subject to change without notice. It is advisable to contact lodging in advance. Lodging list produced with funding from Jefferson County lodging tax funds. 44 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader





Olympic Vacation Rentals • 57 E. Arden St., Port Hadlock • 360-301-1344 •




Paradise Bay Beach Cabin • 3491 Paradise Bay Rd., Port Ludlow • 888-399-6533 •





Windermere Vacation Rentals • PO Box 770, Brinnon • 888-796-3450 •






Cove RV Park • 303075 Highway 101, Brinnon • 360-796-4723 •




Dosewallips State Park • Highway 101, 1/4 miles N. of Brinnon • 888-226-7688 •




Elk Meadows R V • 3485 Dosewallips Rd, Brinnon • 360-796-4886 •




Falls View Campground • Hwy 101, 3.5 miles S of Quilcene • 360-765-2200 • fs.fed/us/r6/olympic




Fort Flagler State Park • 10541 Flagler Rd, Nordland • 360-385-1259 •




Halfway RV Park • Highway 101 and Brinnon Ln, Brinnon • 360-796-4715




Port Ludlow RV Park • 44 Breaker Ln, Port Ludlow • 360-437-9377 •




Rainbow Campground • Hwy 101, 5 miles S of Quilcene • 360-765-2200 • fs.fed/us/r6/olympic




Seal Rock Campground • 1 mile N of Brinnon, Brinnon • 360-765-2200 • fs.fed/us/r6/olympic




Smitty’s RV Park • 9142 Flagler Rd, Nordland • 360-385-2165 •




Beachfront, sleeps 12 Beachfront Wtrfrnt, eagles, orcas, sunsets

• •

Lower Oak Bay • 301 Portage Way, Port Ludlow • 360-385-9160 •







R=Restrictions • NOTE: Information subject to change without notice. It is advisable to contact lodging in advance. Lodging list produced with funding from Jefferson County lodging tax funds.

Private hideaway

Hood Canal waterfront



Beach & Trails

Country Store On the river


View of falls


Open Mar. 1 - Oct. 31

Groups welcome

In the woods Group camp, subject to closure

• •

• •

Near Port Townsend Private beach cabin

Upper Oak Bay • 290 Cleveland St, Port Ludlow • 360-385-9129 •

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Honeymoon Cabin




Wonderful views •





Handicap Access


Scott’s Cabin • 3871 Larson Lake Rd, Port Ludlow • 360-732-7148 •


Protection Bluff Retreat • 780 McMinn, Port Townsend • 360-385-7459 •


• •


• •

Dump Station

450 350


275 250

Rate Range (Min.)

1 2

# of Sites

Paula’s Beach House • near South Point Road, Port Ludlow • 360-710-7868 • Port Ludlow Vacation Rentals • Admiralty Condominiums, Port Ludlow • 206-992-6036 •

Rate Range (Max.)




# of Units 4

Julianna’s Cottage • 1 Beaver Pond Trail, Port Ludlow • 360-732-7148 •

Pool/Hot or Jetted Tub



Fort Flagler State Park Retreat Center • 10541 Flagler Rd, Nordland • 360-385-3701 •

Vacation rentals (continued)

Handicap Access

Mtg Facilities

Rate (Max.)

Rate (Min.)

Comp. Breakfast



Beach & Trails

Quiet country setting

Beautiful Oak Bay

Nestled on Oak Bay

Scan to visit 2012 Getaway ✷ 45

‘Twilight,’ and Beyond ▼

Explore Clallam County First thing you do, decide about “Twilight.” If the vampires vs. werewolves drama tickles your fancy, there is no second choice: Forks is a primary destination. If you are dealing in threes – something for mom, dad and the kids – Clallam County has plenty to offer. Taking U.S. Highway 101 as part of the Olympic Loop from the east crosses first through Blyn at the head of Sequim Bay. This is home to the campus of the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe and includes the Northwest Native Expressions Art Gallery, along with a longhouse and Seven Cedars Casino and the Cedars at Dungeness golf course in Sequim. (Another casino: The Lower Elwha

The Olympic Lavender Farm helps make Sequim the lavender capital of the world. Sequim Gazette photo by Matthew Nash

S’Klallam Tribe operates the Elwha River Casino 15 miles west of Port Angeles.) Yes, John Wayne Marina is named after the late movie star (and avid

People from around the world come to Forks for the natural beauty and “Twilight” connections, including the Swan House. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan 46 ✷ 2012 Getaway

fisherman) who built on land his family donated in 1975. Duke loved to go sportfishing here. The Dungeness Valley city of Sequim (pronounced skwim) basks in the rain shadow of the 7,000-foot Olympic Mountains. Sequim has become the center of all things lavender. The 16th Sequim Lavender Festival is July 20-22 plus the Sequim Lavender Farm Faire and Lavender in the Park. You see sunny Sequim from the highway, but the history and beauty of east Clallam County is best captured by the historic Dungeness community and region, found north of Sequim. The sixmile long Dungeness Spit, capped with a historic lighthouse, was first built in 1857. A hike to the lighthouse and back is four to six hours of easy walking. It’s all part of the 636-acre Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge. Nearby, the historic Dungeness Schoolhouse marks the historic port ▼ Continued on page 48 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Serving Port Townsend & Jefferson County since 1889

• Dozens of wild animal species • Petting Farm • Driving tours

Northwest Waterfront Dining at John Wayne Marina

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226 Adams Street, Port Townsend 360-385-2900 •

Relax and Enjoy the Bus!

2577 W. Sequim Bay Rd., Sequim Open Wed-Sun • 360-683-7510


11 am - 3 pm •


4 pm - 9 pm

Follow the signs to the Park & Ride near Safeway and enjoy comfortable buses and friendly drivers as you tour Port Townsend and Jefferson County. Parking is free and secure, and with your paid bus fare you get an all-day pass to explore all the wonderful sights.

Connections to Seattle, Victoria, B.C. and beyond

360 385-4777

Call for information or check our website for maps and schedules.

Go to to plan your next trip!

Windermere Port Townsend – helping you with any property in MLS

1220 WATER STREET ACROSS FROM THE FERRY DOWNTOWN PORT TOWNSEND 360.385.9344 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 47

Clallam Continued from page 46

town of Dungeness, and with its threequarter mile pier, was once the region’s primary shipping port. Today the rich soil of Dungeness provides nutrients for the regionally famous Nash’s Organic Produce, and provides a home for Walt Disney’s wild animal movie stars, now protected by the Olympic Game Farm. Primary access routes to the Dungeness area from downtown Sequim, are N. Sequim Avenue (becomes SequimDungeness Road) or from U.S. 101 three miles beyond Sequim, Kitchen-Dick Lane. Port Angeles is a gateway city – to the mountains and Olympic National Park, to the Pacific Coast and to Canada via Black Ball Ferry Line. All ocean-going commercial cargo vessels stop here to pick up a pilot before proceeding to the larger ports of Puget Sound including Seattle and Tacoma. There is an eclectic mixture of businesses and shops in this historic lumber and paper mill town. It is also home to the four-day Juan de Fuca Festival of the Arts (May 25-28) featuring more than 150 bands and the Port Angeles Fine Arts Center, a museum of contemporary art with a 5-acre sculpture garden, located near Peninsula College. Fairchild International Airport has commuter connections to Seattle and other points. Walk or bicycle on the Olympic Discovery Trail (connecting Port Angeles, Sequim and Blyn). Olympic National Park is second to none in terms of wilderness variety, with 1,400-square miles of exquisite mountains, rain forests, river valleys and wilderness coast. Day hikes of varying length and difficulty can be found throughout the park. Some are universally accessible while others are more challenging. The park requires an entrance fee and various rules apply. No. 1 is Mount Olympus, standing 48 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The Port Angeles waterfront includes cargo ship traffic. Photos by Patrick J. Sullivan

The Forks Timber Museum is along U.S. Highway 101 next to the Forks Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center.

7,980 feet, has the third largest glacial system in the contiguous United States. Hurricane Ridge offers the peninsula’s only public winter playground: It takes about 17 miles to get from sea level to cross country ski or snowshoe elevations. Ridge top trails descend to subalpine lakes and valleys. Yet, Olympic National Park is much more than the ridge: Pick a picnic place and take a day hike, beach walk, fishing adventure or plan for an overnight camping trip. Lake Crescent is just 20 miles west of Port Angeles. Marymere Falls, East Beach and Devil’s Punchbowl are all nearby. These days, Forks is all about “Twilight.” This forested, misty seacoast

area is the backdrop author Stephenie Meyer chose for her romance novel about teenage vampires and werewolves. It published in 2005 and was followed by three more best-sellers, all made into motion pictures. The final Hollywood movie is due Nov. 20, 2012. While none of the movies were actually filmed in Forks, fans and aficionados are able to find exactly what they are looking for thanks to tour guides. Check out the Forks Visitor Center (360-3742531) for maps, tours, Forks Spartans T-shirts and other Team Edward or Team Jacob items. Bella’s Birthday Weekend falls on Sept. 13-16. Other options include the Forks Timber Museum (360-374-9663) next to the visitor center, and the Sol Duc Fish Hatchery (11 miles east). Forks’ traditional festival is an Old Fashioned Fourth of July. After you have had your fill of “Twilight,” continue down the road on to the wild West End. Olympic National Park Visitor Center 360-565-3131

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Jenny Byrne

"It is our mission to bring joy into the lives of others through the beauty of fine arts & crafts."

Embellishments in the lobby

Trim, Fringe, Ribbon, Edging


Charms, Jewelry, Supplies


gallery & bead studio

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914 Water Street Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-3630

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940 Water Street Custom Printing • Design • Artwork

All in One Location - Open Daily 940 Water Street, Port Townsend, Washington The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 49

Across the Border ▼

Visit Victoria Victoria, B.C. has been called “Canada’s most beautiful city” and they’re not kidding. Surrounded by water, history, charm and architectural and aesthetic influences that run from the First Nations through Victorian England and on to the uniquely western Canadian, this small city is buzzing with things to do and places to enjoy. Access from the Olympic Peninsula is by way of a scenic 90-minute crossing on the venerable MV Coho ferry (Black Ball Ferry Line) from downtown Port Angeles. The Garden City with several major garden attractions and hundreds of pleasing small spaces that can surprise a visitor at any turn, serves up visual delights in any season. The crown jewel of gardens is the Butchart Gardens, 55 acres of seasonal color located within a 10-minute drive from the downtown. Established by an ambitious couple in 1904 in an old limestone quarry, it is

Urban fountains like this one dot the cityscape in downtown Victoria, B.C., with much larger gardens surrounding the city. Its international moniker: “City of Gardens.” Photo by Scott Wilson

still owned by the family. En route is the Victoria Butterfly Gardens with its 12,000-square foot tropical enclosure, holding at least 6,000 exotic butterflies. Close by are the gardens at the Horticulture Centre of the Pacific (HCP), with its magnificent rhododendrons. Bicycles allow you to make a day of formal or informal garden touring. Bike rentals are plentiful, and should be. Victoria is a bike-crazy town, thanks to its low rainfall and temperate climate. You can enjoy the coastal route with its vistas across the Strait of Juan de Fuca

to the Olympic peaks and its link to the site of historic Fort Victoria, marking white settlement in 1843. Or you can connect with the locally favored Galloping Goose bike route, which together with the Lochside regional trails put 50 miles of mostly paved, mostly level biking before you, running through Victoria and all the way out past Sooke to the west or the Saanich Peninsula to the north. For long segments, such as along the Swan Lake Nature Sanctuary, you wouldn’t know you were in the city. By biking or walking, you’ll come across the smaller, more secret gardens and special places of Victoria – discreet urban fountains in the Inner Harbour area (Empress Hotel courtyard), and the heritage orchards of St. Ann’s Academy, which incorporates a Roman Catholic Chapel from 1858 to name two. Other Victoria highlights: Literally step inside First Nation’s culture in the world-class exhibit in the Royal BC Museum just off the Inner Harbour. Take afternoon tea in the Fairmont Empress Hotel, a tradition since 1908. Choose from 10 different companies that operate orca whale tours from the Inner Harbour. Visiting Canada: You’ll need a passport, an enhanced driver’s license, a NEXUS card, or a U.S. passport card. Bringing someone else’s child along? You may need a notarized consent from his/ her parents. Be advised that Canada immigration is supposed to bar people with criminal convictions, including a DUI. Black Ball Ferry Line 360-457-4491 Butchart Gardens 888-824-1990 Royal BC Museum 250-356-7226

The Parliamentary Building in downtown Victoria. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan 50 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Prince of Whales whale-watching 888-383-4884 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Port Townsend Computers

Olympic Peninsula’s only authorized service center for Apple warranty repairs.

A Good Ol’ Fashioned Record Store! Concert Posters • New & Used Vinyl CDs, DVDs & More!

PCs, Macs & Cell Phones

Washington’s Oldest Independent Record Store

CompTIA A+ Certified Service Center We make house calls & do networking!

– Est. 1974 –

The most comprehensive Art Supply Store on the Olympic Peninsula!

230 Taylor St. Port Townsend

1200 West Sims Way, Ste. B Port Townsend M-F: 10-6; Sat: 10-4

Open Late Daily



Girls & Boys Clothing Infant Wear

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• Locally handcrafted garments • Great Gifts • Fabric

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1215 Lawrence St. #101, Port Townsend 360-385-1035 • The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Open: Mon.-Sat. 10-6 2328 W. Sims Way, Port Townsend 360-385-3970 2012 Getaway ✷ 51

beaches, rainforest ▼

Wild West End Five days could easily be spent savoring the wild beauty that is our Olympic Peninsula’s West End. The West End starts once you leave Port Angeles, or come north from Aberdeen along U.S. Highway 101 (the Olympic Loop). Of the country’s four contiguous corners, none other is quite this rugged or wild. State Route 112 along the Strait of Juan de Fuca connects Pysht, Clallam Bay, Sekiu and Neah Bay. Sports fishing, birding (migratory waterfowl and sea birds), beachcombing, biking, camping, diving, hiking, kayaking, surfing – it is all here. At highway’s end are trails to Shi Shi Beach and the famous Point of Arches, and to Cape Flattery. Neah Bay is located within the Makah Indian Reservation, the peninsula’s largest, and home to the Makah Museum and Makah Days (Aug. 24-26).

At First Beach near La Push, this surfer caught a big wave, then shot into the air like a rocket for a topsy-turvy return to the watery world.

Three things to bring when traveling the West End: Protective clothing (raingear and layered clothing) proper footwear (for rugged trails or so,ft beaches), and pay-to-play passes, (Washington State Discover Pass, Olympic National Park Annual Pass, park entrance fees, campground fees, etc.).

The Hoh Rain Forest, Queets Rain Forest and Quinault Rain Forest are all lush, natural wonders with more than 140 inches of rain annually. Giant Sitka spruce and cedar trees are hundreds of years old, and big leaf maples support acres of moss. Campground options abound. The Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center is a two-hour drive from Port Angeles. Glacial water mean rivers like the Hoh, Sol Duc and Queets may be higher and colder in the summer. Some river sections can be waded by cautious anglers; otherwise drift boats with experienced oarsmen are required. Fishing gear of choice: two-handed spey rods, sinking lines and shooting tips. Olympic National Park was started in 1909, enhanced in 1938, and includes some of the world’s best wilderness beach camping. Choices include Cape Alava or Sand Point, two overnight hikes (or one long loop) found at the end of the Hoko Ozette Road. The ocean beaches are spectacular with scenic overlooks, pounding surf and gentle tidepools. Rialto Beach (north of Quillayute River) and First Beach (south of the river) are both about 12 miles from Forks via State Route 110 to LaPush. Two things about ocean beaches: Beware a rising tide (consult a tide table) and be safe. Never underestimate the ocean’s power. About 35 miles on Highway 101 from Forks is Kalaloch (pronounced clay-lock) complete with sandy beaches, national park amenities, a lodge and cabins. Along the way is access to Ruby Beach Trail, a short and easy walk. Clallam Bay/Sekiu Chamber of Commerce 16795 State Route 112 Clallam Bay, WA 98326, Neah Bay Chamber of Commerce 360-645-2711

Many shades of green make up the Hoh Rain Forest. Photos by Scott Wilson 52 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Grover r me” Max to watch ove

Olympic Mountain Pet Pals

A nonprofit organization serving pets and their families in Jefferson County. Programs include: • Free Spay/Neuter Service for low-income residents • Community Cat Program (trap/neuter/return) • Pets to people • • Read to rover

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234 Taylor St., Port Townsend

Support Environmentally Responsible Businesses All City Autobody Auto Works Circle & Square Auto Care Dentistry Northwest Dockside Cleaners Goldstar Marine Jefferson Transit

Marketech/J&S Fabrication Pleasant Harbor Marina Point Hudson Marina Port Hadlock Marina Port Ludlow Marina Port Townsend Boat Haven Port Townsend Rigging

Printery Communications Satch Works Auto Repair SOS Printing Taku Marine The Car Wash Uptown Dental Clinic Zen Care Maintenance

To search the online directory or apply for certification, go to Windermere Port Townsend – helping you with any property in MLS

1220 WATER STREET ACROSS FROM THE FERRY DOWNTOWN PORT TOWNSEND 360.385.9344 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 53

Good Works! ▼

Five Ways Local Nonprofits Make Life Better Every community has its angels of the deed – volunteers who devote themselves to making life better for others. But Port Townsend and Jefferson County has grown or attracted more than its fair share of these. Everywhere you look you’ll see the signs of those doing good works on the Olympic Peninsula. As a result, this corner of the world has retained its profound sense of community in ways that benefit locals and visitors alike. Why the success? Here are five reasons: 1) Nonprofits play an outsized role. The private, for-profit sector in Jefferson County is, as a matter of scale, limited. The largest single private employer, the Port Townsend Paper Corp., has only 280 employees. Unlike most of the country, the economy of Jefferson County consists of almost all locally owned small businesses. There are few chain stores. If you visit 10 stores, you will probably be talking to the owner in seven of them. A strong sense of interdependence and an intense “buy local” ethic keeps locally owned businesses going.

Holly Hoffman, 4, picked a gift for her mother at the East Jefferson Habitat for Humanity shop in Quilcene. Photo by Allison Arthur

1970s, Centrum transformed Port Townsend into an arts and cultural mecca, attracting interesting new residents and annually infusing the region with new visitors and artists. Centrum has shaped Port Townsend as much as Port Townsend has shaped Centrum. 3) Stepping in where needed Nonprofits tend to form around identified needs and causes. They focus on the arts, education, history, the natural landscape, wooden boats and maritime heritage, taking care of neighbors in need and animals looking for a home – to name a few. This area has been fortunate to have residents who care deeply and, together with a handful of others, have found it possible to get a cause-based organization off the ground. In most cases, it starts with one or two people. And once started, the nonprofits have shown remarkable staying power.

2) Legacy of influential nonprofits From this economic soil has arisen a strong and ambitious non-profit sector that plays a prominent role in community life. A 4) Ready volunteers cornerstone in this legacy is Centrum, the While many nonprofits have staffing, all arts and cultural education foundation based at Fort Worden State Park. Launched in the depend heavily upon volunteers, and all are 54 ✷ 2012 Getaway

dependent on contributions. Newcomers to the region find that getting involved through volunteerism is the best way to connect to the community and people with similar interests and values. They donate time and money. Whether visitors know it or not, they, too, are the beneficiaries of the good works of the nonprofit sector: From flowers planted in the Adams Street pocket park to the person standing at the desk of one of the Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce Visitor Centers, the city and county are brimming with do-gooders. 5) Examples of our busy nonprofits Centrum, a foundation for the arts and culture, has been bringing artists and students of all ages together at the campus of Fort Worden State Park for 30 years. Among its annual headline events are the Festival of American Fiddle Tunes, the Jazz and Acoustic Blues festivals and the Writers’ Conference. 360-385-3102 ▼ Continued on page 56 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Get a

Passport to the past! at the Jefferson County Historical Society

Walking Tours of Uptown and Down tow


ters 1904 Commanding Officer’s Quar at Fort Worden, on Officers’ Row

Visit our 3 museums and take a Walking Tour! 540 Water Street • (360) 385-1003

1868 Rothschild Ho use Museum, on the corner of Fra nklin and Taylor

Jefferson Museum of Art and History in the historic 1892 City Hall, 540 Water St.

STRONGER together Making a Difference at Home, Today and Tomorrow

United Good Neighbors of Jefferson County

Jefferson County Community Foundation

Providing our Community’s Safety Net

Finding Solutions Through Collaboration and Innovation

Supporting Health & Human Services:

• Food Banks • Emergency Shelters • Emergency Medical & Mental Health Services • Early Childhood & Youth Services • Senior Services 360-385-3797 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Investing through:

• Community Endowments • Donor Advised Funds • Nonprofit Alliance • Scholarships • Giving Circles 360-385-3797 2012 Getaway ✷ 55

Helping Continued from page 54

American Association of University Women seeks to remove barriers to education for women and girls in Jefferson County. It has 200 members and is the largest AAUW branch in Washington state. United Good Neighbors of Jefferson County (UGN) is the umbrella fundraising agency that allows locals to make one annual donation that then funds two dozen important safety net programs for our neighbors in need. In 2011 it raised $243,000. UGN: 360-385-3797 Jefferson County Community Foundation (JCCF) started in 2005 to allow residents to make legacy gifts toward building up a community-oriented endowment fund. Last year its endowment exceeded $1 million, and over $57,000 was distributed to good causes. As of May 1, 2012, United Good Neighbors and JCCF merged their staffing, operations and office to enhance collaboration and efficiency. JCCF: 360-379-3667 Northwest Maritime Center/Wooden Boat Foundation and the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding are two separate entities devoted to sustaining maritime skills

and heritage from different directions. The School enrolls students who learn to build wooden boats through traditional means and tools. The Center offers programs that get youths and adults on the water, and stitches together our maritime history with the present. It also puts on the West Coast’s biggest and most popular festival of wooden boats, coming Sept. 7-9, 2012, which puts some 600 volunteers into action on land and sea. Wooden Boat School: 360-385-4948 Maritime Center, Festival: 360-385-3628 Jefferson Land Trust has, since its founding by three women in 1989, acquired or permanently conserved hundreds of acres of Jefferson County land. Some 400 people list themselves as donors to support this work. 360-379-9501 Jefferson County Historical Society has been in operation since 1879, not long after Port Townsend’s first settlers (1851) set down roots. Now it operates a museum in the old City Hall, and has expanded its storage and research facility on Rhody Drive. 360-385-1003 Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum, located in a historic barracks building at Fort Worden State Park, combines several good works. The non-profit, all-volunteer CAM focuses on preserving and interpreting the history of the harbor defenses of Puget Sound. 360-385-0373 Also involved in the arts is the Port Townsend

The Northwest Maritime Center and Wooden Boat Foundation offer rowing, sailing and boatbuilding programs. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan Arts Guild, started in 1972 to host four juried arts and craft fairs featuring local and regional artists. This year those fairs come May 12-13, Aug. 18, Sept. 8-9 and Nov. 23-24. 360-379-3813 Olympic Mountain Pet Pals is an all-volunteer organization devoted to bettering the lives of pets, via a spay/neuter program, care for feral cats, getting pets to people and funding emergency assistance. 360-437-9085

Fort Worden State Park hosts a ton of events, many connected to non-profit or not for profit ventures. Photo by Kathie Meyer 56 ✷ 2012 Getaway

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Rub shoulders with sailors & boaters This is the place! • Visit our Working Boat Shop • Maritime library • NWMC Cafe • Beautiful Facility • Wharf

West Coast’s Largest Wooden Boat Festival Sept. 7, 8 & 9

431 Water Street • Point Hudson • Port Townsend 360.385.3628 •

Sailing Classes begin

June 1 through Sept. 15, Youth & Adult

Eclectic Authentic Community Radio Streaming Live

Launch your Career in the Maritime Trades

Associate Degree of Occupational Studies & Diploma Programs Accredited by the Accrediting Commission of Career Schools and Colleges (ACCSC) Boats for Sale or Commission

Shop the Peninsula’s Largest Selection of

Nautical Merchandise

at The Wooden Boat Chandlery

- 15th Annual -

April 28 Self-guided Tour of 8 Chimacum Valley/Tri-Area Kitchens. Proceeds support local scholarships and community education projects.

360-379-6454 or “Port Townsend Kitchen Tour” on Facebook

Contact us for information at:

Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding 42 N. Water Street, Port Hadlock, WA 98339 (360) 385-4948 •

Arts & Crafts Guild 40 Years

Port Townsend

celebrates as a self-supporting non-profit arts organization, providing arts scholarships to local students and helping to fund other cultural activities in Jefferson County. 34th Annual Rhododendron Arts & Crafts Fair May 12th and 13th Madison Street and Civic Plaza downtown 22nd Annual Uptown Street Fair Arts & Crafts Show Saturday, August 18th Tyler Street by Community Center 39th Annual Crafts by the Dock Fair September 8th and 9th Madison Street and Civic Plaza downtown The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

10,919 total acres protected and stewarded in the Olympic Peninsula We’ve been helping the community preserve open space, working lands and habitat since 1989.

Jefferson Land Trust 22nd Annual Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair November 23rd and 24th Port Townsend Community Center (two floors) Lawrence and Tyler Streets Uptown

Applications for fairs and scholarship applications available at or call 360-379-3813

Visit our website for information on protected properties, activities and upcoming events. (360)379-9501 1033 Lawrence Street Port Townsend, WA 98368 2012 Getaway ✷ 57

to do ▼

Full of Festivities

Ongoing events

Brinnon Farm Market • Thursdays through Sundays, May through September, at the junction of U.S. Highway 101 and Dosewallips Road. Free Friday Concerts • Presented at noon on the patio at Fort Worden State Park Commons in the summer season through mid-August. Sponsored by Centrum, Friday Market in Port Ludlow Village Center • 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Friday, May 11-Sept. 28, 360-437-0882, Gallery Walk • Galleries and other art venues in Port Townsend stay open in the evening on the first Saturday of each month. Many hold opening receptions for artists and offer light refreshments. Living History Walking Tours • Offered at 2 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, downtown and Uptown Port Townsend, June through September. Call to arrange group tours. Sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003,

Colorful costumes, for special festivals and special occasions, are de rigueur in Port Townsend. Photo by Nicholas Johnson Maritime Skills Workshops • Conducted year-round at Port Hadlock Heritage Campus of Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding, 360-3854948, 29th Olympic Music Festival • Classical chamber music Saturdays and Sundays, June 30-Sept. 2, at a dairy barn near Quilcene, 360-7324800,

Port Townsend Bicycle Association Rides • Moderately paced rides into rural Jefferson County offered Sundays, leaving Port Townsend’s Food Co-op at 9:30 a.m.,; Lillian’s Last-Wednesday Middle/South County Rides, last Wednesday of the month, Lillian Miller Kuehl, lilliankuehl@, 503-913-7566. Please wear a helmet.

Port Townsend Farmers Market • Uptown at Tyler and Lawrence on Saturdays, April through October, 9 a.m.-2 p.m.; November and December, 10 a.m.-1 p.m.; Wednesdays at Polk and Lawrence, June 20 through Sept. 26. Part of the Jefferson County Farmers Market, 360-379-9098, Port Townsend Marine Science Center • Adult and youth marine science activities throughout the year in the Natural History Exhibit, the Marine Exhibit and on the beach at Fort Worden State Park, 360-3855582, PT Shorts • Dramatic short readings by local actors presented on the first Saturday of each month, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building, Water and Madison, Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Commission and produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, Protection Island cruises • Spring and fall migration, summer puffin sightings and specialty cruises aboard Glacier Spirit and one on the schooner Adventuress. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-566-3932, Quilcene Farmers Market • Seasonally, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. starting Saturday, April 21. Live music at noon. Old Church Road, Quilcene, 360301-9690 for general information or booths.

Each August, the Jefferson County Fair offers vegetables, flowers, art, small animals – and a demolition derby for teenagers. Photo by Gina Cole 58 ✷ 2012 Getaway

▼ Continued on page 60 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Bet Shira

Religious Organizations

PO Box 1843, Port Townsend, WA 360-379-3042 •

Evangelical Bible Church

An Evangelical Methodist Church 2135 San Juan Ave., Port Townsend 360-385-2076 Pastor James Lyman 10am Sunday Bible Study 11am Sunday Service & Children’s Church 10am Mondays: Craft & Chat

First Baptist Church

Loving God & Loving Port Townsend. 1202 Lawrence St. (Uptown), Port Townsend 360-385-2752 • Pastor Skip Cadorette A relaxed come-as-you-are, blend of contemporary and traditional music, prayer and honest Biblical teaching, nursery care provided. Sunday, 9:30am: Worship Sunday, 10:45am: Classes for kids and youth; sermon discussion and coffee hour for adults.

Grace Lutheran Church ELCA

1120 Walker Street, Port Townsend 360-385-1595 • The Rev. Coe Hutchison, Pastor Sundays 9:15am Christian Education and Adult Forum; 10:30am Worship with Holy Communion; Wednesdays 10am Bible Study on next week’s texts; Fridays 7am Bible and Breakfast for Men at the Bayview Café. For current schedules and information please call or check our website. Visitors are always welcome!

Peace Lutheran Fellowship ELCA A Place of Grace The Reverend Elizabeth A. Felt 2924 Beaver Valley Road South of Chimacum at mile post 3 360-732-0004 • Sunday Worship 10am

Saint Paul’s Episcopal Church

In historic Port Townsend – worship with us in Washington’s oldest Episcopal church building in continuous use. Corner of Jefferson & Tyler, Port Townsend 360-385-0770 • The Rev. Elizabeth A Bloch, Rector Sunday, 8 & 10am: Holy Eucharist; 10am: Children’s Program; Wednesday, 10:30am: Holy Eucharist & Healing Service; 2nd & 4th Sundays: 5pm service “We welcome everyone without exception to God’s table.”

St. Mary Star of the Sea Catholic Church

One of the oldest Catholic Churches in the Pacific Northwest 1335 Blaine St. (Corner of Harrison and Blaine) Port Ludlow Community Church 360-385-3700 • Connecting Christ and Community. Rev. John Topel, S.J. Pastor Dennis LaMance, Pastor Saturday, 9am: Hispanic Mass; 9534 Oak Bay Road, Port Ludlow 5:30pm: Vigil Mass 360-437-0145 • Sunday, 8:15am and 11am; Sunday Worship: 10:30am; Adult Education, Monday, Thursday, Friday,12:05pm: Mass, Tuesday, First Church of Christ, Scientist, 8:45am; Children’s Hour during 10:30am service 12:05pm: Communion Service, Wednesday, Port Townsend Wednesday: Evening Prayer, 7pm 6:30pm: Mass Church and Sunday School are at 275 Umatilla Ave., Thursday: Women’s Prayer, 9am; Women’s Bible Confession one half hour before mass. Study, 10am near Discovery and San Juan, 360-531-2719. Children & adult religious education programs. Sunday services: 10am Quakers Wednesday noon: Testimony Meetings Tibetan Buddhist Center of Port Religious Society of Friends Reading Room in Sunday School: 11-3 Townsend, Dzogchen Dharma Chöling Wednesday and Friday, 1:30-3pm Wednesday and 360-385-7070 • Uniting Love & Compassion, with Awareness Meet at PT Community Center, corner of Lawrence after church Sunday. and Wisdom. Visitors warmly welcome! and Tyler Sts. 696 Water St., Port Townsend First Presbyterian Church Sundays, 9:30am: Worship with singing; 360-385-1219 • 10am: Silent worship We are a welcoming community, sharing the spirit of Christ. Loving generously, serving selflessly, living Quimper Unitarian-Universalist Sun., 10am: Weekly Buddha Path Group justly. Practice at Phoenix Rising (upstairs) Fellowship 1111 Franklin Street, Port Townsend 360-385-2525 • • A Welcoming Congregation Unity 2333 San Juan Avenue, Port Townsend Pastor: Rev. Robert E. Slater, D. Min. Spirituality with Open Hearts & Open Minds 360-379-0609 • • Summer-Labor Day: 10am Worship & Sunday Services at 9:15and 11:15am; Children’s Rev. Pamela Douglas-Smith Children’s Church 360-385-6519 • Religious Education at 9:15am, childcare Fall-Spring Worship Schedule: Sundays, 11am: Inspirational Service & available at both services. 8:15: Worship; 9:30: Adult Education; Children’s Circle; Meets at Masonic Hall 11: Worship & Children’s Church, professional (Jefferson/VanBuren), “Portal to the Divine: The San Juan Baptist Church nursery care provided throughout the morning. Alchemy of Prayer” - our 2012 study of world The Church on Discovery & home of the R.O.C.K. prayers. Everyone welcome. We offer A Course Grace Christian Center San Juan Baptist Church is a warm, Bible-believing in Miracles, Medicine Wheel Teachings, Taize, Solid, Spirit-filled Bible teaching. “Loving Jesus and fellowship of folks who care about YOU! Ishaya, and Ananda groups. loving each other.” 1704 Discovery Rd., Port Townsend Come join our Authentic Transformative Spiritual Meeting at 200 Olympic Place 360-385-2545 • Community! (Port Ludlow Conference Center) Dr. Conrad B. Dodd, Pastor 360-821-9680 Kevin Hunter, ThD Michael Williams, Music & Youth Pastor 360-821-9684 Pastor Sherri Barden, PhD Sundays, 8:30 and 11am: Worship Service 360-821-9684 Associate Pastor Karl Barden, ThD (childcare provided); 9:45 am: Sunday School for all ages; 5pm: Read through the Bible Sunday service: 10am Mondays: 7pm, Prayer Meeting Wednesdays, 6:30pm: Grace Gathering Wednesdays, 7:00pm: Youth Group Plus home Bible studies & special events.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 59

Events Continued from page 58

Rothschild House & Commanding Officer’s Quarters • Open May through September through the Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, Rowing & sailing programs • Year-round for adults and youths. Sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, Woodcraft workshops • Adult and youth classes in traditional woodcraft conducted year-round at Port Townsend School of Woodworking and Preservation Trades in Fort Worden State Park, 360-344-4455, Concerts on the Dock • 5:30-8 p.m. Thursdays, July 19-Sept. 6, in the new Civic District Plaza in downtown Port Townsend. All-age concerts are free and open to the public. Beer/wine/ cider garden. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360385-7911, Chimacum Farmers’ Market • 10 a.m.-2 p.m., Sunday, May 20 through Oct. 28 at the Chimacum crossroads, across from the Chevron where Highway 19 meets Chimacum and

Port Ludlow’s Festival by the Bay July 27-29 includes Na Hula O Kauhale No Nahele Kai & Naiki‘l led by Bernie Robinson (center, in green dress). Photo by Gina Cole Center roads. Part of the Jefferson County Farmers Market, 360-379-9098,

specific dates, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396,

Port Townsend Barcott Series • Each Wednesday through Sept. 5 on Port Townsend Bay. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association,

TBA • Quilcene Heritage Days, a family festival, celebrates the history of the area.

April 2012

April-May • Spring White Cap Series. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, April 19-May 13 • “The Art of Dining,” a saucy comedy by Tina Howe. Call or visit website for

April 27 • Loyalty Day Parade, 1 p.m., Brinnon. April 27 • Gala Preview Party for Jefferson Art & History Museum (formerly Jefferson County Historical Society Museum), 5-7 p.m. opening and the “Contemporary Expressions of the Northwest: Fine Art from the Robert and Nora Porter Collection,” 360-385-1003, April 27, 29 • Brinnon Community Theatre’s production of “Pecos Bill and Slue-Foot Sue meet the Dirty Dan Gang,” Brinnon Booster Club. April 28 • Jefferson Art & History Museum exhibit opening, 11 a.m. featuring mid-20th-century Northwest art from the Porter collection. April 28 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Spring Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, April 28 • 15th AAUW Kitchen Tour, “A Day in the Country.” Self-guided tour of Tri-Area kitchens sponsored by AAUW and UWF. Proceeds support local scholarships and community education projects, 360-385-2224, April 28-29 • 12th JeffCo EXPO, sponsored by Jefferson County Fair Association at the fairgrounds, offers 4x4 mud drags, car show, arm-wrestling tournament, horse show, plant sale, arts and crafts show and more, 360-385-1013,

The 77th Rhododendron Festival each May includes many family-friendly events, including a trike race. Photo by Nicholas Johnson 60 ✷ 2012 Getaway

April 28, May 5 • Spring Migration Cruises to Protection Island aboard Glacier Spirit, 1-4 p.m., sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 800-566-3932, 360-385-5582,

May 2012

May 1-31 • Art Wave – Children’s Art in the Stores, exhibit of artwork created by students in grades K-12. Sponsored by PT Artscape/Port Townsend Community Consortium and Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, May 4 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, presents Port Townsend author and columnist Brad Matsen, who discusses his new book Death + Oil: A True Story of the Piper Alpha Disaster on the North Sea, 7 p.m. Port Townsend City Hall, 360385-1003, May 4-19 • “Urinetown,” a play produced by Port Townsend High School, runs weekends, finishing up during Rhododendron Festival. Information: 360-379-4520 or May 5 • Wooden Boat Race No. 2 on Port Townsend Bay. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, May 5 • The Art Affair, art fundraiser to benefit K-12 arts education, part of Art Wave (see May 1-31 entry). Sponsored by PT Artscape/Port Townsend Community Consortium and Port Townsend Main Street Program,, 360-385-7911, May 5 • Opening Day on Port Townsend Bay. All are invited to watch the opening day of boating season parade from the Northwest Maritime Center Pier. Hosted by Port Townsend Yacht Club (Commodore Vince Verneuil, 360-379-4002) and Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3853628, May 5 • PT Shorts, “The Kitchen: Literature You Can Taste,” 7:30 p.m. Cotton Building, downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Theatre, May 7 • Paper Preservation 1, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 1 p.m. at Research Center reading room. Class focuses on cleaning and simple repairs of paper artifacts, 360-379-6673. May 11 • 2nd Downtown Open Space Tour • 4-7 p.m., sponsored by Main Street Program, 360-3857911, May 12 • Plant Sale Fundraiser for Quilcene Presbyterian Church, 9 a.m.-1 p.m., Brinnon Community Center, May 12-13 • 34th Rhododendron Arts & Crafts Fair, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-3793813,

Look at all we offer! A Place to Camp • A Family Reunion Location A Place to Get Married • Exciting Events • RV Group Destination Vehicle, RV or Boat Storage • 80 Campsites – 18 Full Hookups 40 Power/Water Campsites • 22 Dry Campsites

Year-Round Camping • Special Event Camping Full Hookups $20 • Partial $17 • Dry Camping $15 (per night) 12th Annual JeffCo EXPO April 28 & 29, 2012 75th Jefferson County Fair “Happy 75th!” August 10, 11 & 12, 2012 9th Annual Holiday Fair November 3 & 4, 2012 11th Annual Community Garage Sale March 16, 2013

May 12-20 • 77th Rhododendron Festival, with events, festivities, parades and carnival. Sponsored by Rhododendron Festival Association, May 13 • 20th Rhody Bike Tour. Choose from 20-, 44-, 64- or 100-mile routes. Sponsored by Port Townsend Bicycle Association,

PORT TOWNSEND, WASHINGTON • 4907 Landes Street • 360-385-1013 •

May 18-20 • PT Spring 505 One-Design Regatta, May 18-20 • Rhody Festival Flower Show at Fort Worden State Park chapel. Sponsored by Rhododendron Society, 360-385-1374. May 19 • Rhody Festival Grand Parade, Uptown and downtown Port Townsend,

Authentic Asian Art

May 20 • Kids Sprint for Health, 9:30 a.m. on Rhody Run day at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Jefferson Healthcare, 385-2200, ext. 2036,

Artifacts, Furniture

May 20 • Rhody Run XXXIV, 12K race beginning and ending at Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marathon Association, 877-463-9786, 360-379-3595,

Textiles & Jewelry

May 26 • Olympic Art Festival, 9 a.m.-4 p.m., Olympic Art Gallery, Quilcene, 360-765-0200, ▼ Continued on page 62

Bali Singha Indonesia 23” × 25” × 22”

821 Water Street, Por t Townsend w w w.maestraleimpor t 360. 385. 5565

830 Water St. Port Townsend 360-379-2410

Jefferson County is a great place for a car cruise, and we have multiple car shows to prove it. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Antiques & Folk Art • Artisan Furniture • Natural Stone Sinks & Tile • Textiles & Fiber Art 2012 Getaway ✷ 61

Events Continued from page 61 May 26-27 • Brinnon ShrimpFest seafood festival CANCELED for 2012. Organizers hope for a 2013 event. May 27 • Marrowstone Island Tractor Days. Inquire at the Nordland Store. May 27 • Pleasant Harbor Marina Memorial Day Celebration. Booths featuring local vendors, beer garden, live music, 360-796-4611. May 27 • Quilcene-Brinnon Garden Club Plant Sale, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. at the Quilcene Masonic Hall. Call 796-0239 or 796-4729.

Historical Society, presents Al Latham with the “History of the Jefferson County Conservation District, 19462011,” 360-385-1003,

June 4-8 • Blue Heron Tales, Texts & Theater, a Young Artists Project at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum,

June 1-3 • 29th Classic Mariners’ Regatta, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-386-3628,

TBA• Fifth Fort2Fort Bicycle Ride, a supported tour of 17, 45 or 62 miles, starting and ending at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Friends of Fort Worden,

June 2 (tentative) • “Hard Hat & Carhartts” Construction Wrap Party, sponsored by Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, June 2 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building, downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, June 3 • Opera Concert with Marlette Buchanan and Charles Robert Stephens, part of the 2012 KCPT Performing Arts Series, 3 p.m. Quimper Unitarian Universalist Fellowship, sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, keycitypublictheatre. org.

May 28 • Port Townsend Summer Band season-opener Memorial Day concert, 11:30 a.m., American Legion Post 26, Port Townsend,

June 4 • Paper Preservation 2, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 1 p.m., Research Center reading room. Class focuses on protective enclosures for books and papers.

June 2012

June 4-5 • WordPlay reading, “Lips,” by Constance Congdon, sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, 7 p.m. at the theater, 360-385-7396,

June 1 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County

June 8 • 122nd Port Townsend High School commencement, 7 p.m. at McCurdy Pavilion, Fort Worden State Park, June 8-July 27 • Summer Cat’s Paw Race Series, Fridays. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, June 8-10 • Steampunk Weekend, a new event in Port Townsend. “Steampunk” combines Victorian-era technology with futuristic stylings. Sponsored by Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce and Lodging Tax Advisory Committee, 360-3857869, June 9 • 7th North Olympic Peninsula Model Show & Contest, “Between the Wars: 1919-1939” at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by North Olympic Peninsula Modelers Society, June 9 • 93rd Chimacum High School commencement, 1 p.m. McCurdy Pavilion, Fort Worden State Park, June 9 • Port Townsend High School Alumni Dinner, Elks Lodge, 555 Otto St. June 10 • Co-op Kids Festival, 1-4

p.m., free fest includes food samples, fresh local food, games and more at Port Townsend’s Food Co-op, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, 414 Kearney St., 360-385-2831, ext. 308, or June 14 • Taste of Port Townsend features eateries throughout Port Townsend. Sponsored by Main Street Program, June 15, 17 • Wild Rose Chorale Concerts, 20th anniversary bash for Port Townsend’s a cappella vocal group, 360-385-1402, 360-379-0223, June 16 • 101st Quilcene High School commencement, 2 p.m. school gymnasium, June 16 • Secret Garden Tour, “Small Victories – Nine Sensational Gardens on Urban Plots” showcases in-town gardens, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sponsored by Jefferson County Master Gardeners, 360-765-4224, June 23 • Hootenanny celebrating the summer solstice with bluegrass band Dirty Kitchen, 5 p.m. barbecue/ brews, 6 p.m. bluegrass, Bay Club. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, portludlow June 23 • Rakers Car Show at Memorial Athletic Field in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Rakers Car Club, June 23-24 • Tala Point Regatta, sponsored by Port Ludlow Yacht Club, June 24 • Summer Band Concert, 3 p.m., Chetzemoka Park, ptsummer June 25-29 • Junior Explorers Day Camp for ages 5-7 at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, June 25-July 1 • Voice Works, a weeklong workshop for singers, at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, centrum. org/voiceworks. TBA • Voice Works performances at McCurdy Pavilion. Sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, June 27-July 15 • “Jacques Brel is Alive and Well and Living in Paris,” a cabaret-style music revue, by Eric Blau and Mort Shuman with music by Jacques Brel. Call or visit website for specific dates. Produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, June 30 • 19th Rat Island Regatta, human-powered boat race from Fort Worden. Sponsored by Sound Rowers, 360-385-0457,

July 2012 Dance is a big part of our local arts and entertainment scene, from professional classes and shows to boot-scootin’ fun. Photo by Kathie Meyer 62 ✷ 2012 Getaway

July 1-8 • 36th Festival of American Fiddle Tunes at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum,centrum. org/fiddle. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Young Artists Projects at Fort Worden State Park sponsored by Centrum, July 8-15 and 18-22 • 39th Port Townsend Writers’ Conference, two weeks of workshops, with free public readings and lectures at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, July 9-13 • Coastal Explorers Day Camp for ages 8-12 at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center,

Choose your pleasure ... The Listed in “Best Places Northwest”

Victorian Hotel

July 12 • Rally for the Cure/ Prostate Cancer Foundation ninehole combined benefit tournament at the Port Ludlow Golf Course, 9 a.m. Carol Katuzny, 360-437-1157.

The Pasture Blaster returns Aug. 24-26 to a field near Discovery Bay, where kids and adults launch model rockets as high as 3,000 feet. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan July 4 • Fourth at the Fort Celebration and Fireworks Show at Fort Worden State Park, including Port Townsend Summer Band concert and fireworks. July 4 • Port Townsend Summer Band Independence Day Concert, 7 p.m. American Legion Post 26, Port Townsend, July 4, 6, 7 • Festival of American Fiddle Tunes performances at McCurdy Pavilion. Sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, centrum. org/fiddle. July 4-8 • Gold Wing Touring Association State Rally, 25th anniversary, Jefferson County Fairgrounds. Includes special events. July 7 • Independence Day Party, Pleasant Harbor Marina, with live music, free vendor booths and other activities. Free admission. 800-5473479, July 7 • Motorcycle Show & Shine at Safeway parking lot, 11 a.m.; Northwest Wings Drill Team performance at park-and-ride, noon; Light Parade from fairgrounds to city center, 9:45 p.m. July 7 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend. Readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre,keycity July 7, 14, 21, 28 • Puffin Cruises to Protection Island aboard Glacier Spirit (July 21, Olympus), 6-9 p.m., sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 800-566-3932, 360385-5582, July 8-15 • Advanced High School Visual Art Studio and Advanced High School Writers’ Studio, both The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

July 14-15 • 23rd Hadlock Days in downtown Port Hadlock, with lawnmower races at the “Port Hadlock Speedway,” vendors, parade and more, 360-821-9347, July 14-17 • Creative Nonfiction Weekend at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, Mid-July • Airport Daze & Fly-In at Jefferson County International Airport, four miles southwest of Port Townsend, 360-385-2323, Mid-July • Tribal Paddle Journey overnights at Fort Worden State Park.


he historic Bishop has enchanted generations of visitors. A classic lobby welcomes you. A gazebo garden awaits. One and two bedroom suites feature fireplaces, private baths, water views and complimentary continental breakfasts. Wired and wireless for internet, with HD television and DVDs. Pets welcome.

714 Washington St. Port Townsend (800) 824-4738 • (360) 385-6122 online reservations:

July 16-20, 23-27, 30-31, Key City Kids’ Summer Theatre camps for three age groups. Call or visit website for specific dates. Sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, July 20-22 • 16th Sequim Lavender Festival and Lavender Farm Faire,

Pets Welcome !

July 21 • Linger Longer Outdoor Performance Stage Inaugural Concert with country singing star Chance McKinney. Linger Longer Productions, 360-765-3321. July 22-29 • Jazz Port Townsend Workshop at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, July 24-25 • Longboat Explorers Day Camp for ages 12-18 at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, July 26 • Comedy Night at Key City Playhouse. Sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, July 26-28 • 36th Jazz Port Townsend performances at McCurdy Pavilion and local clubs. Sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, July 27-29 • Port Ludlow Festival by the Bay, with activities, Artists’ League show, crafts market, music, golf tournament, tennis event, water activities, car show, vehicle displays, flyovers, firemen’s breakfast, fireworks and more. Freddy Pink band headlines an 8 p.m. Saturday concert. ▼ Continued on page 64


he unique Swan commands Port Townsend’s maritime crossroads at historic Point Hudson Marina and overlooking the busy shipping lanes of Admiralty Inlet. Stay in studios, charming cottages or the penthouse. Private baths, mini-fridges, microwaves. Wired and wireless internet, with HD television and DVDs. Cottages have fireplaces and jetted tubs.

222 Monroe St. • Port Townsend (800) 824-4738 • (360) 385-6122 online reservations:

Reserve online! 2012 Getaway ✷ 63

Events Continued from page 63

Sponsored by Port Ludlow Village Council,, July 28-29 • Relay for Life of Port Townsend, noon to noon, Memorial Field, Port Townsend. Overnight event celebrates cancer survivors and raises money for American Cancer Society, 425-322-1120, July 29 • Summer Band Concert, 3 p.m. at Chetzemoka Park, July 29-Aug. 5 • 21st Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival Workshop along with performances at McCurdy Pavilion and local clubs. Sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, centrum. org/blues. July 30-Aug. 3 • “Art and History” and “Join the Regiment” camps, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society. 360-385-1003, July 30-Aug. 3 • Marine Biology Day Camp for ages 9-13 at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center,

August 2012

Aug. 3 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, presents “Ansel Adams: A Portrait of Manzanar,” a photo lecture in conjunction with an

award-winning exhibit traveling from the Bainbridge Island Historical Society; 360-385-1003, Aug. 3 • Quilcene Museum Wine Tasting Gala, 360-765-0688. Aug. 3-19 • Twelfth Night,” a Shakespeare in the Park production by Key City Public Theatre at Chetzemoka Park. Call or visit website for specific dates, 360-385-7396, Aug. 3-31 • Dog Days Races, Fridays. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, Aug. 4 • 31st Boat school anniversary. Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding and Puget Sound Chapter of the Traditional Small Craft Association sponsor celebration at the school, 42 N. Water St., Port Hadlock. Tour shops, ride on 28-foot studentbuilt dories, sample seafood for sale, enjoy Ajax Restaurant beer garden. 360-385-4948, Aug. 4 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, Aug. 4 • Puffin Cruise aboard Glacier Spirit, 6-9 p.m. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 800-566-3932, 360-385-5582,

Art is for all ages, and it plays a big role in the annual Port Townsend Uptown Street Fair each August. Photo by Kathie Meyer

Aug. 5-11 • Dance This! at Centrum, a Young Artists Project for high school students at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, youth.

Aug. 10-12 • 75th Jefferson County Fair at the fairgrounds in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Jefferson County Fair Association, 360-3851013,

Aug. 6-10 • Junior Explorers Day Camp for ages 5-7 at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center,

Aug. 10-12 • Port Townsend Bead Market in Port Townsend, 360-3856131, Aug. 11 • Jack and Jill Race, sponsored by Port Ludlow Yacht Club, Aug. 18 • Summer Band Concert, 11 a.m., Port Townsend Community Center lawn for Uptown Street Fair, Aug. 18 • 23rd Kiwanis Classic Car Show at Memorial Field in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Kiwanis Club. Contact Ed Zinser, 360-385-6568, 360-774-2852, Aug. 18 • 21st Uptown Street Fair Arts & Crafts Show, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Tyler and Lawrence streets. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild and Uptown merchants, 360379-3813,,

An antler show is one of several events taking place during the annual Quilcene Fair weekend each September. Photo by Nicholas Johnson 64 ✷ 2012 Getaway

visit website for specific dates. Produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, Aug. 24-26 • 3rd Pasture Blaster hosted by Olympic Peninsula Rocketry near Discovery Bay. National Association Model Rocketry Competition; fun for kids and adults, Aug. 25-26 • 13th Art Port Townsend Artist Studio Tour. Art studios open to the public on free, self-guided tour. Sponsored by Northwind Arts Alliance, in conjunction with annual juried show, Aug. 26 • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, 3 p.m. at Pope Marine Park, Water and Monroe, Port Townsend, TBA• Fort Worden Fun Run, 9-11 a.m.

September 2012

Aug. 19 • Port Townsend’s Food Co-op 40th Anniversary Party,

Sept. 1 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre,

Aug. 20-21 • Longboat Explorers Day Camp for ages 12-18 at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center,

Sept. 1-3 • 6th Military Vehicle Collectors’ Show, Fort Worden. Historical tours, displays. Sponsored by Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum, 360-385-0373.

Aug. 24-Sept. 2 • “Expectations,” a musical by David H. Schroeder. Call or

▼ Continued on page 66 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Antiques, Untiques, Eclectic Collectibles, Local Wood Artists, Fine Art & Jewelry, Quality Consignment., International Carpets and so much more. Treasures arriving daily from 100 sellers.

ANTIQUES Downtown Port Townsend Artist Gary Griswold Paintings • Boat Models 379-8069

Antique MAll

Nautical Items • Jewelry • Porcelain China Collectibles • Furniture Rare Books

802 Washington St. • Port Townsend



725 Water Street in the heart of Port Townsend



One of the biggest antique dealers on the peninsula. 802 Washington St., Port Townsend (360) 379-8069 Open 7 days a week

Social network for the

Prowling is fun!

215 Polk Street - Downtown near Ferry Port Townsend (360) 385-5646

Bergstrom’s Antique Auto

Homo \ Bi \ Trans community of the Olympic Peninsula

Networking E-List • Weekly Lunches Monthly Potlucks • Seasonal Dances Business Directory

Come on out - it’s all Gud!

Everything Quality or Quirky... Just what an antique shop should be!

MS. BEE HAVEN ANTIQUES 1020 Water Street • Port Townsend (360) 385-0347 Bee Robin, Owner

Classic Cars & Parts Huge selection of Unique Artifacts

809 Washington Street (360) 385-5061

Where The Girls Are – Washington Street PT Pearl

ROVING • BOOKS EMBROIDERY LOCAL FIBER ARTISTS YARN • WOOL FELT 919 Washington St. • 360-379-9273 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Flattering Organic Clothing Local and Fair Trade Gifts Open Daily 11-5:30; Closed Tues. 385-1018 • 926 Washington Street

Natural Skincare


Facials • Waxing • Tinting 930 Washington St. • 360-821-1718

Wandering Wardrobe 936 Washington St. • 379-4691 2012 Getaway ✷ 65

Events Continued from page 64

TBA • Protection Island Sail on the schooner Adventuress. Sponsored by the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, Sept. 7 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, presents Jonathan Evison, author of the novel West of Here, an account of the Elwha Dam and the development of the Olympic Peninsula. 360-385-1003, Sept. 7-9 • 36th Wooden Boat Festival at Point Hudson features 300 wooden vessels, and hundreds of indoor and outdoor presentations and demonstrations. Sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3853628, Sept. 8-9 • 39th Crafts by the Dock in downtown Port Townsend, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-3793813,, Sept. 9 • Port Townsend Summer Band, 2:30 p.m. Quimper Unitarian Universalist Fellowship, Port Townsend, Sept. 14-16 • Royal Scottish Country Dance Society, Seattle Branch, 38th Evergreen Workshop at Fort Worden State Park, including Saturday night ball at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, ftworden.

Sept. 15 • Marrowstone Harvest Fest, 800-871-3077.

October 2012

Sept. 15 • 32nd Quilcene Community Fair & Parade, “Quilcene: Enjoy a Day in the Country,” includes music, arts and crafts, classic car show and burnout competition. Sponsored by Quilcene Fair and Parade Association, Bruce Munn, 360-301-4026, bruce@,

Oct. 3-7 • Autumn Master Class in Poetry at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, Oct. 4-28 • “Woyzeck,” by Georg Buchner, adapted by Sarah E.R. Grosman. Call or visit website for specific dates, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396,

Sept. 15-16 • Quilcene Antler Show, Quilcene School grounds, noon-5 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. Trophy antlers, taxidermy specimens, guest speakers, displays, Boone and Crockett scoring, Dave Satterlee, 360-765-4810,,

Oct. 5 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, presents Gregg Olsen, true-crime writer from Kitsap County and author of Starvation Heights. 360-385-1003,

Sept. 16 • 10th annual Farm Tour, sponsored by WSU Jefferson County Extension, showcases nearly 20 Jefferson County farms. Free, selfguided tour, 360-379-5610, ext. 200, Mid-September • Cabin Fever Quilt Show, Sept. 16-Oct. 21 • Fall Nightcap Series. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, Sept. 21-23 • Reverberations, inaugural festival with the world premiere of a multi-media performance from Centrum artists-in residence in the historic gun batteries and underground cistern on Artillery Hill at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, Sept. 21-23 • 12th Port Townsend Film Festival, “a film lover’s block party,” films and related events in Uptown and downtown, 360-379-1333, Sept. 22 • Carpe Diem string quartet at gala champagne opener of Port Ludlow Arts Council concert season, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 7:30 p.m., Bay Club, 360-4372208,

Oct. 5 • Girls’ Night Out in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360385-7911, Oct. 6 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, Oct. 6-7 • 30th Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Skulpture Race. Sponsored by Port Townsend Kinetic Konsortium, 360-379-4972, Oct. 6, 13 • Fall Bird Migration Cruises to Protection Island aboard the Glacier Spirit, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 800-566-3932, 360-385-5582, TBA • Hauntownsend at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, Oct. 13 • “Soar!” Centrum annual Gala Dinner & Auction at Port Townsend Aero Museum, 360-3853102, ext. 112, Oct. 19 • Gonzalo Bergara Quartet, cabaret show with acoustic Gypsy jazz

and sounds of Argentina, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 7:30 p.m., Bay Club, 360-437-2208, Oct. 27 • PT Community Orchestra Fall Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, pre-concert lecture with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m., 360-6433215, info@porttownsendorchestra. org, Oct. 31 • Downtown Trick or Treat Parade in Port Townsend. Sponsored for children by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, TBA • 2nd PT Zombie Walk, details to be announced. Other Halloweenrelated events also take place in Port Townsend, Port Hadlock and other venues.

November 2012

Nov. 1-4 • Big Band Intensive Workshop at Fort Worden State Park. Sponsored by Centrum, Nov. 2 • First Friday Lecture, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, presents Lynda Mapes, a Seattle Times reporter specializing in environmental and Native American issues. 360-3851003, Nov. 2-3 • Fall General Auditions for Key City Public Theatre at Key City Playhouse, 6 p.m. Friday, 2 p.m. Saturday, 360-385-7396, Nov. 3 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, Nov. 3-4 • Annual Holiday Fair at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend. Sponsored by county fair association, 360-385-1013, Nov. 3-4 • Port Townsend Woodworkers’ Show, American Legion hall, Water and Monroe. Entrants this year must bring one piece made from local lumber. Nov. 4-5 • WordPlay reading, “Take Me to the River,” by Constance Congdon, 2:30 p.m. Sunday, 7 p.m. Monday, at the theater. Sponsored by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, Nov. 8 • Comedy Night at Key City Public Theatre, 8 p.m., 360-385-7396, Nov. 12 • Veterans Day Ceremony at American Legion Post 26, with performance by Port Townsend Summer Band,

The Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Skulpture Race has road, mud and water kourses – for the glory! Photo by Nicholas Johnson 66 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Nov. 16-18 • West End Weekend, sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society, features lectures, field trips, activities on Jefferson County’s west side, 360-385-1003, The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

• Beach walk right out your door and walking distance to ferry and downtown • Romantic setting of "An Officer and a Gentleman" movie • Breathtaking view of bay and mountains with 500 sf of living space • Available amenities include: fireplace, Jacuzzi, in-room coffee, TV, air conditioning and complimentary continental breakfast

1-800-822-8696 1807 Water Street Port Townsend Vintage military vehicles are on display, and rides are given, during Labor Day weekend at Fort Worden State Park. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan Nov. 23-24 • Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Port Townsend Community Center. Sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-379-3813,, Nov. 23-25• Port Townsend Marine Science Center Gift Shop Sale and fish printing, noon-4 p.m. on the pier at Fort Worden State Park, 360-3855582,

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Nov. 24 • Merchants’ Holiday Open House/Small Business Saturday in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, Nov. 29-Dec. 23 • “This Wonderful Life,” a oneman show adapted from Frank Capra’s Christmas classic performed by Charlie Bethel, produced by Key City Public Theatre. Call or visit website for specific dates, 360-385-7396,

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December 2012

Dec. 1 • Community Treelighting & Parade with Santa in downtown Port Townsend. Sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, Dec. 1 • Marrowstone Treelighting. Details at the Nordland Store, 360-385-0777. Dec. 1 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Holiday Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, pre-concert lecture with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m., 360-643-3215, info@, Dec. 1 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, TBA • Community Chorus of Port Townsend & East Jefferson County presents holiday concerts, 360-385-1402, Dec. 2 • Holiday Tour of Victorian Homes, selfguided tour sponsored by the Victorian Society in America-Northwest Chapter, 360-379-2847, ▼ Continued on page 68 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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If you are staying in Port Townsend, why not call ahead and get your car fully detailed in and out? Appointments available on the weekend! OPEN: Mon-Sat: 8-6, Sunday: 9-6 LOCATED: Upper Sims on 515 Howard St. across from the Goodwill 379-5717 • 2012 Getaway ✷ 67

Events Continued from page 67

Dec. 8-9 • Chimacum Arts & Crafts Fair, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. at Chimacum High School, in support of school activities, 360-732-4015, Dec. 9 • Greta Matassa Quintet in “Music of the Holidays,” jazz. Sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 4 p.m., Bay Club, 360-4372208, Dec. 15, 17 • Wild Rose Chorale & Friends Holiday Concerts with the a cappella group, youth choirs and a group of holiday singers, First Presbyterian Church, Port Townsend, 360-379-0223, 360-385-1402, Dec. 31 • First Night Celebration, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003,

Nordland, 360-385-0777. Jan. 5 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, TBA • 8th Strange Brewfest in Port Townsend, Jan. 25-27 • PT Sectional Bridge Tourney at fairgrounds.

February 2013

TBA • 21st Shipwrights’ Regatta, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, Feb. 2 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, Feb. 18-20 • Olympic Peninsula Salmon Derby, formerly called the Discovery Bay Salmon Derby, sponsored by Gardiner Salmon Derby Association,

Dec. 31 • New Year’s Eve Cruise aboard the Glacier Spirit views wildlife at Protection Island. Sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 800-566-3932, 360-385-5582,

TBA • Playwrights’ Festival, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396,

January 2013

Feb. 22 • International String Trio delivers Appalachian folk, classical and acoustic world music, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 7:30 p.m., Bay Club, 360-437-2208,

Jan. 1 • Polar Bear Dip, noon,

TBA • Port Townsend Chamber Music Festival at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum,

Feb. 23 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Winter Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, pre-concert lecture with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m. 360-643-3215,,

March 2013

March 1-31 • Port Townsend Public Library Community Read, community members read the same book, with discussion groups, speakers and readings, 360-3853181,

Golf is a year-round sport in our region. Port Ludlow, Discovery Bay and Port Townsend golf courses welcome golfers of all ages and abilities. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan 68 ✷ 2012 Getaway

March 2 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, March 15 • Liana Forest, concert pianist, presents “Bach to Broadway,” sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 7:30 p.m. Bay Club, 360-4372208,

There are multiple salmon derby opportunities in Jefferson County. John Otness of Tacoma won the 2012 Olympic Peninsula Salmon Derby’s $10,000 prize with this hatchery fish weighing 17.60 decimal pounds. Photo by Sean Pilarski TBA • 26th annual Stars of Tomorrow youth talent show, 360-379-0520. TBA • Victorian Heritage Days. Sponsored by Victorian Society in America, Northwest Chapter, Mid-March • Fort Worden Kitemakers Conference at Fort Worden State Park,

April 2013

April-May • Spring White Cap Series on Port Townsend Bay. Sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, April 6 • PT Shorts, 7:30 p.m., Cotton Building downtown Port Townsend, readings of literary works in conjunction with monthly Gallery Walk. Sponsored by the PT Arts Commission and Key City Public Theatre, April 6-7 • Discovery Bay Volunteer Firefighter’s Association Salmon Derby,

TBA • 16th annual AAUW Kitchen Tour sponsored by AAUW Port Townsend and University Women’s Foundation, TBA • Earth Day Every Day! observance and celebration in Port Townsend. Sponsored by Local 20/20, 360-385-2735, April 27 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Spring Concert at 7:30 p.m. at Chimacum High School auditorium, pre-concert lecture with Maestro Dewey Ehling at 6:45 p.m., 360-643-3215,, TBA • Port Townsend Chamber Music Festival at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, TBA • 13th JeffCo EXPO, sponsored by Jefferson County Fair Association at the fairgrounds, offers 4x4 mud drags, car show, arm-wrestling tournament, horse show, plant sale, arts and crafts show and more, 360385-1013,

April 20 • Franc D’Ambrosio’s Hollywood – Songs of the Silver Screen, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 7:30 p.m. Bay Club, 360437-2208,

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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2012 Getaway ✷ 69

Visit a Museum ▼

Touch our History Quilcene Historical Museum is located at 151 E. Columbia, at the intersection of Center Road, in Quilcene. New exhibits feature Brinnon, Native Americans, millinery, shellfish, the military and businesses. Hours are 1-5 p.m., Friday-Monday, from April to Sept. 22. Admission is by donation. Leave a message at 360-765-4848, 360-765-3192 or 360-765-0688. Fort Flagler State Park Museum explains the history of Fort Flagler (est. 1899) on Marrowstone Island, a former U.S. Army Coast Artillery post. There are guided tours of historical hospital and gun emplacements (May-September); the museum is actively collecting relevant artifacts, photographs and documents. Admission by donation. Call park office at 360-385-3701. Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum is in Building 201 at Fort Worden State Park. Showcasing the military history of Fort Worden (est. 1902), it also covers the site’s post-military years. The nonprofit, volunteer-staffed museum is open year-round. Hours: 11 a.m.-4 p.m., with extended Saturday hours, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., in June, July and August. Admission. Group tours by appointment. Harbor entrance control post (on Artillery Hill) tours offered Saturdays 11a.m.-4 p.m. in summer, by donation. 360-385-0373. Port Townsend Marine Science Center is located on the beach at Fort Worden State Park. The PTMSC offers the Marine Exhibit (ME) on the pier and the Natural History Exhibit (NHE) on the shore. The Foss Maritime Discovery Lab involves students and adults in research, addressing nearshore environmental issues. The NHE is the result of a partnership with the Burke Museum in Seattle and Washington State Parks, and includes fossils and exhibits of cliff geology, glaciers, diving birds and sands from across the globe. ME features touch pools and aquaria. Hours vary by season. Admission. 800-566-3932, 360-385-5582. Jefferson County Historical Society Museum is found in Port Townsend’s historic City Hall, 540 Water St. Check out the gift shop. Museum hours 70 ✷ 2012 Getaway

Port Hadlock was founded in 1870, and its waterfront lumber mill operations shipped products until about 1908. Jefferson County Historical Society Collection photo are 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Saturday-Sunday in JanuaryFebruary, and daily the rest of the year. Admission. Special “passport” rates to get in all three of the JCHS-managed museums. 360-385-1003.

through September, at Jefferson and Taylor streets in Port Townsend. Admission. Staffed by Jefferson County Historical Society. 360-385-1003.


Commanding Officer’s Quarters (1904) overlooks the water at Fort Worden State Park. The furnishings reflect life at the fort circa 1910. Managed by Jefferson County Historical Society. Open noon-5 p.m. daily, May-September; noon-4 p.m. weekends, October-November. Admission. Group tours and special openings can be arranged. 360-385-1003.

1892: The five-masted “jumbo” schooner Governor Ames, “the largest fore and aft craft afloat,” is in Port Townsend Bay, lumber-laden for Port Pirie, Australia.

Jefferson County Historical Society Research Center is the place to look up family and property histories, view photos and investigate a library of genealogical resources. The center is shared by the Jefferson County Genealogical Society at 13692 Airport Cutoff Road (State Route 19), about five miles south of Port Townsend. Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday (except third Saturday or the month, noon-4). Admission. 360-379-6673.

Rothschild House State Park is a historic home with original furnishings of the Rothschild family (1868-1954). Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. daily, May

(from the pages of the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader)

1915: “Word was received in this city yesterday afternoon that a Ford touring car driven by Frank Hart had completed the trip over the Olympic Highway [U.S. Highway 101 along Hood Canal] from Quilcene to Olympia. Hart is the first man to have covered the entire distance.” 1920: “The wildest pig in Jefferson County is sought for the Fourth of July celebration. A large, speedy, ferocious and artful pig will be released at the ball park and will go to the one catching it.”

Kelly Art Deco Light Museum, the only known American Art Deco lighting museum in the world, is open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. On exhibit at the free museum are rare, one-of-a-kind Art Deco fixtures selected from a 30-year collection of more than 2,000. Located in the Kelly Building, 2000 Sims Way, Port Townsend. 360-379-9030. Port Townsend Aero Museum provides workbased opportunities for youths and young adults, and restores, flies and displays antique aircraft at Jefferson County International Airport, six miles south of Port Townsend. Hours are 9 a.m.-4 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday. Admission. 360-379-5244.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 71

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This route takes you by many examples of historic architecture in Port Townsend. Leader Map

historic homes ▼

Take a Tour Port Townsend is home to many historic and otherwise unique homes and commercial buildings. Visitors can view some of them by following this map. Most historic homes are not open to the public unless they are posted as being open, have been converted into inns or are featured in special events. Please be courteous when enjoying our historic landmarks! 72 ✷ 2012 Getaway

1. Capt. Tibbals Building (1889), now The Palace Hotel, was a “rooming house,” 1004 Water. 2. Lighthouse Café Building (pre-1880) was former home of the renowned Axtel Saloon, 955 Water. 3. James and Hastings Building (1889) was built by pioneers Francis W. James and Lucinda Hastings at 940 Water. 4. Sterming Block (1889) was built by George Sterming for his Belmont Saloon at 925 Water. 5. Mount Baker Block (1890) was built as an office building during railroad days at 910 Water. 6. Hastings Building (1889), built by pioneer Lucinda Hastings, is still owned by that family at 839 Water. 7. C.F. Clapp Building (1885), the earliest building in the city with a cast iron façade, is at 725 Water. 8. Waterman & Katz Building (1885) was formerly the W&K dry goods store at 701 Water. 9. Bishop Block (1891), built by British sailor and builder William Bishop, is home to the Bishop Victorian Hotel, 714 Washington. 10. Enoch S. Fowler Building (1874) was the county courthouse in territorial days and since 1916 has housed the offices of the Port Townsend

& Jefferson County Leader at 226 Adams. 11. Haller Fountain (1906), donated by Theodore Haller in memory of his father, Granville O. Haller, commander of Fort Townsend, features the statue known as Galatea at Washington and Taylor. 12. Rose Theatre (1907), still downtown’s movie house, was restored in 1992 at 235 Taylor. 13. Francis Wilcox James House (1891), built by the James family at 1238 Washington. 14. Customs House (1893) holds the U.S. post office and other public agencies at 1322 Washington. 15. F.W. Hastings House (1889), now the Old Consulate Inn Bed and Breakfast, is at 313 Walker. 16. O’Rear House (1891), winner of 2004 Washington State Historic Preservation Award, is at 1932 Washington. 17. Jefferson County Courthouse (1892), one of the two oldest government buildings in the state, features a 124-foot clock tower at 1820 Jefferson. 18. Harry Barthrop House (1880), a Georgianstyle home, at 1306 Franklin. 19. N.D. Hill House (1880), a Victorian Gothic home, is now the Blue Gull Inn bed and breakfast, 1310 Clay. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

20. Capt. James McIntyre House (1871) was built for his bride, Sophie Pettygrove, at 633 Van Buren.

41. Trinity United Methodist Church (1871), the state’s oldest Methodist church, is at 609 Taylor.

21. Capt. Thomas Grant House (1887), a fine example of Italianate Villa style, is at 731 Pierce.

42. Peter Mutty House (1881) still has the iron grillwork that was removed from many Victorian houses, 640 Taylor.

22. Thomas Hammond House (1890), a Victorian home with a corner fireplace, is at 834 Pierce.

43. Edward Sims Home (1886) is the former home of a noted state legislator at 716 Lawrence, which was remodeled in 1905.

23. Henry Wylie House (1889) is a Queen Anne “cottage” with excellent decorative detail, 932 Pierce.

44. L.C. Strong House (1876) is a restored home at 740 Taylor.

24. Old Catholic Church (date unknown) was used until 1958 and is now a residence at 1510 Blaine. 25. Charles Pink House (1868) features late Greek Revival architecture at 1256 Lawrence. 26. Carnegie Library (1913), the city library built with Carnegie Foundation funds, is at 1220 Lawrence.

45. Elias DeVoe House (1888) was built as a showplace for a masonry business at 538 Lincoln. 46. Chetzemoka Park (1904), Port Townsend’s oldest park, is named after S’Klallam Chief Chetzemoka, who died in 1888. 47. Cupola House (c. 1933-34) at 380 Jefferson was part of the U.S. Coast Guard station at Point Hudson.

48. Commander’s Beach House (1934), original residence of the commanding medical officer for the Coast Guard quarantine station. 49. Point Hudson, Native American seasonal camp and site of Capt. Vancouver’s 1792 landing. 50. Swan Hotel (1911), built by James Swan, frontier scientist and historian, is at 216 Monroe. 51. City Hall (1891), also home of the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum at 540 Water. 52. Lewis Building (1889), originally the Fowler/ Caines Building, is at 630 Water. 53. Franklin House (1886), Port Townsend’s first fireplace brick hotel, was enlarged from an 1869 wooden building at 636 Water. 54. N.D. Hill Building (1889) housed the Hill family’s drugstore.

27. R.C. Hill House (1872) is a pioneer family home. 28. George Downs House (1886) is noted for its artistic stained glass windows at 538 Fillmore. 29. H.L. Tibbals House (1887) was built by a major town leader at 1208 Franklin.

Darby throws Phoebe sculpts A work of art is born

30. Col. Henry Landes House (1882), home of a retired colonel who later became a state senator, is at 1034 Franklin. 31. First Presbyterian Church (1890), a Queen Anne-style building with an impressive antique pipe organ, is at 1111 Franklin. 32. Capt. Enoch S. Fowler Home (c. 1866) is Port Townsend’s oldest remaining home, 1040 Jefferson. 33. Frank A. Bartlett Home (1860) has a French mansard roof and fine architectural lines at 314 Polk.


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34. St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1865), oldest church in the Olympia Diocese and one of the oldest standing structures in town, is at 1032 Jefferson. 35. Fire Bell Tower (1890), which once summoned the town’s volunteer firemen. 36. Rothschild House State Park (1868), built by a prominent local merchant on the bluff above Jefferson Street at Taylor, is now a museum. 37. Baker House (1898), former home of a prominent dentist, is at 905 Franklin. 38. St. Paul’s Episcopal Parish Hall (1860s) arrived by barge and was moved in 1999 to the bluff at Jefferson and Adams. 39. Capt. DeLion House (1882) is an Italianate Renaissance-style home at 712 Clay. 40. George Starrett House (1889), is a notable Victorian home at 744 Clay.

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

2012 Getaway ✷ 73

Small Town, Big Hearts ▼

The Real Housewives of Port Townsend By Carla Patton

Written history indicates Real Housewives have existed in Port Townsend for as long as there were men to smell their necks. 74 ✷ 2012 Getaway

I don’t consider myself an authority on much, except reality television. This unfortunate fascination began at an early age back when people honestly believed they could have a shot at finding love on “The Bachelor.” Now, as an adult, semi-professional TV watcher, I’ve harvested a love-hate relationship with Bravo’s “Real Housewives” franchise. The women featured on each iteration of the Real Housewives tend to be materialistic, vapid, and hysterical – traits I looked forward to escaping when I moved to a smaller town. No one throws wine or million-dollar birthday parties here, as far as I’m aware. So what would “The Real Housewives of Port Townsend” look like? Here’s my take: The featured Housewives brag about who knows the most people or who has the lowest Food Co-op member number. They gossip about who they’ve seen shopping at a chain store out of town, and whose garbage was full of recyclable items (“Stay out of my trash, trash!”). Icy glares are exchanged over chanterelles at the farmers market. After a blowout because one of the Housewives didn’t recommend another’s bed and breakfast on her personal blog, they show up to the Wooden Boat Festival wearing the same fleece jacket. An argument ensues. Later, the women can’t decide whose house to go to for a cider tasting – the acreage with a spectacular mountain view or the Victorian with an unobstructed water view? They settle on going to Gallery Walk; three of them have too much wine and argue about composting techniques. Between charity auctions, the Housewives keep themselves busy running galleries, running their children from school to after-school enrichment activities, running small businesses, and working multiple part-time jobs. They speculate on whose dog was running errant

week after week in the Sheriff’s Log, and when they plan a spa day, they show up at five different massage places. Many of their partners try to stay out of the fabricated drama. One is too busy commuting back and forth to Seattle to concern himself with why his wife’s tomatoes refuse to grow. Another has dedicated his life to the peaceful protest, finding himself at odds with the trust fund conservative of the bunch. A post-film festival party turns sour when two of them get into an argument over who had the longer, more arduous bike ride. The season finale drum circle fails to invigorate the group as planned, causing one of the recent Port Townsend transplants to threaten to quit the town for good. In the end, the reunion show is a disaster. The Real Housewives of Port Townsend are so intent on avoiding conflict that they just sit on the couches, picking dog hair off of their clothes. There’s little sense in goading them into a fight about who said what about whom on the show because no one bothered to watch a single episode. They may exchange a few passive-aggressive comments regarding who is the most proud not to own a television, though. The characters portrayed in this Port Townsend fan fiction are made up. Any resemblance to real people is purely coincidental. Carla Patton would like to think she’s a Lisa Vanderpump, but is probably more of a Kim G. She would be the Real Housewife of Port Townsend who throws all the wine. Her line would be, “I’m fierce, feisty, and lactose intolerant.”

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

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2012 Getaway ✷ 75


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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Getaway Guide to Port Townsend & the Olympic Peninsula  
Getaway Guide to Port Townsend & the Olympic Peninsula  

The 2012 edition of the Getaway Guide to Port Townsend & the Olympic Peninsula, as published by the Port Townsend & Jefferson Couty LEader