Page 1

a/w 18 19


Lau Lok Yi N0776463


Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design Hong Kong Design Institute

ba

ifb

2017 / 2018

Module: Fashion Buying Module reference: FASH30007

IVE

Module Leader: LEE, Vivian

Module Name Declaration This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue, I recognise the right and duty of the Board of Examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulation on assessment contained in its handbook. I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.

Signed ………………………………………………………………(Full Name)………………Lau Lok Yi………………… Date …………………………5-12-17………………………………… (Word Count: __2647 WORDS___)


Fig 1. Superdry Sport


01

07

Brand’s Strategy

A/W 18/19 Collection Analysis

02

08

SWOT Analysis

Retail Planning

03

09

Customer Situation

Conclusion

Contents 04

10

Fashion Show Review

Reference

05

11

Trend Forecast

Photo Reference

06

12

A/W 18/19 Collection

Bibliography


Brand’s Strategy

According to the SuperGroup annual report

Fig 2. Retail performance

2017, the retail operating profit including E-commerce is £68.6 million and the retail operating profit in 2016 is £62.6 million which is growth 9.6%. (Fig 2) The following KPIs is showing that the Superdry performance of 2017. (Fig 3) Fig 3. Superdry KPIs

As Federico (2016) states, the growth of American apparel market was averaged approximately 3% each year. Besides, the Chinese market seems more energetic. Because the average growth of the apparel market in China is 10% per year in last five years. Sometimes, the market growth will jump like in 2014 which is increased to 18%. Follow this speed, China has caught up the American apparel market already. (para. 4-5) Therefore, China would expect to overtake the US as the world's largest apparel market by 2017. Because of the purchasing power and the apparel market growth in China, Superdry announces the joint venture with Trendy International Group and entered the China market in 2015. Fig 4. Total apparel sales between China and USA


Moreover, according to the SuperGroup

annual report 2017, there are opened five trial stores in May 2017 and three franchises in China to find more opportunity. (p. 27)

Fig 5. 2015 Superdry presence market

Further, the seven trial stores in North America opened by Superdry which enabled Superdry to experiment with different store formats in different types of location since set up the successful presence in North America is an important step to realizing the global ambition. That makes Superdry store number increased in the worldwide.

Fig 6. 2017 Superdry presence market

Fig 7. Superdry developing territories

Superdry is targeting to be a global lifestyle brand. Now they develop more breadth and nature of the product range and widening the appeal to a broader customer group. Moreover, Superdry classifies each territory by the stage who reaches in developing the brand. (Fig 7)


Strengths

Weaknesses

- Strong social media sense

- Price too high

- Quality fabrics with authentic vintage washes

- Hoodies & Tee so famous that ignore other

- More than 500 shops in 45 countries

product

- Emphasize on sustainability

- Not many layering provide to the customer

- Located in Hong Kong popular area

- No spokesperson in HK

Opportunities

Threats

- Cooperate with YouTubers/celebrities to attract - Competitors products were cheaper customers

- Fast fashion influence

- Competitive of Superdry is higher in Asia

- Less promotion than the competitor

market (e.g. not many competitors in HK)

- Competitor has many design layering that

- New customer service

attracts the customer - UK quit EU, affect company base Table 1. SWOT Analysis

With reference from the SWOT analysis in the comparative shop report, there are not

many layering or design of products provide to the customer and the price too high that comes to the conclusion as the weakness of Superdry. All of them would affect the customer making a purchase decision. Therefore, in the upcoming A/W 18/19 collection, there will provide more design or layering to the customer. Also, base on the price, this collection would try to decrease the cost but keep the product quality to attract more customers. Besides, as per analysis in Part 1, Asia market specifically China is a potential market that Superdry trying to capture. Thus, this collection will majorly target Asia market. Moreover, the sustainability policy of Superdry has been conspicuous between its competitors and there would be further development of the sustainability policy in product or promotion etc.

SWOT Analysis


Customer Situation According to SuperGroup annual report 2017 "Our target customers are characterized by attitude not age" (p. 9).

However, Superdry is using the young models to shoot the lookbook and advertisings etc. It seems that, they target on young adult aged 15 to 35 who have higher education level. Some of them maybe are the student or working in I.T. or fashion industry. The brand also targeted males that who are YOLO style, like sport, party with friends, pay attention to celebrities, try everything new and enjoys share their life on internet.

Fig 9. Men selecting product

Fig 10. Men in store

Fig 8. Customer Board

After the customer observation and staff interview in part 1, there is a gap between Superdry target customer and real customer. There is less student to visit the store, perhaps they came with their parents but they had not consumption. Most of the customers are from mainland China and aged 30-45. The foreigner customer is more than the locals. In the customer observation, we heard they thought Superdry is a young label, trendy and good quality which made them feel young.

The younger generation would spend more time to pay attention to the fashion and the celebrities dressing. To attract the younger like college students to buy, this collection would be based on the trends which are bold and brand characteristics to design.


Fashion Show Review A / W 17

In Autumn Winter 17/18, Fig 11. Markus Lupfer Style 1 Fig 12. Markus Lupfer Style 2

Fig 13. Tomorrowland Style 1 Fig 14. Tomorrowland Style 2

whether in menswear or womenswear, there are many brands using tartan and plaid checks, blurring the line between formal and casual. Moreover, most of the colors in nostalgic warm cinnamon and toffee tones are keys for the authentic vintage feel which is the popular keys in this season.

Fig 15. NOAH Style 1 Fig 16. NOAH Style 2

Fig 17. Michael Kors Style Fig 18. Stella McCartney Style


Fashion Show Review S / S 18 In S/S 18, the check and tartan plaid still common on

the runway. In addition to the base of black and nude color, the color of plaid has mixed with orange and red etc.

Fig 19. MGSM Style 1

Fig 21. No. 21 Style 1

Fig 22. No. 21 Style 2

Fig 20. MGSM Style 2

Fig 23. Gosha Rubchinskiy Style 1 Fig 24. Gosha Rubchinskiy Style 2


Fashion trend forecast is the most difficult and calculative

work, it bases on the consumer mood, behavior, culture, beliefs and geographic locations to do the prediction. It helps to predict the fashion industry future development. (Singh, [n.d.]) (para. 2-3) As Shaw and Koumbis claim, “Fashion buyers need to be fervent watchers of society and changing trends.� (p.29) It implies that trend forecast is not same in worldwide since the customer culture and behavior etc. But the result also needs to analysis to match social change and customer need. As Maria (2010) states that, every season would be introduced the new trends that in principle is a cycle to go until next season. In general, it is a lifespan cycle of the trend; the process consists of a rise, culmination and decrease.

Fig 25. SPRING FASHION TRENDS 2013

Color

According to the WGSN retail and buying report of color for A/W 18/19 that, the yellow tone has become popular such as Gen Z Yellow and Mimosa Yellow.

Fig 27. Mimosa Yellow

Trend Forecast

Fig 26. Gen Z Yellow


Moreover, bright and vibrant shades gain momentum as con-

sumers slowly but steadily embrace bolder colors. The neutral color tones such as camel and sand are overwhelmingly popular and move towards more classic. The warm neutral with the bright are creating a new color story that would influence A/W 18/19 which could complete the palette for a fresh.

Fig 28. Louis Vuitton

Fig 32. Bright & Neutral

Fig 30. Blue & Neutral Color

Fig 29. Ermenegildo Zegna

Fig 31. Baby Purple & Neutral Color

Trend Forecast


Trend Forecast Pattern

Fig 33. GALLOWAY PLAID Fig 35. Acne Studios Spring 18

Fig 34. Blue Check

In the fashion show of A/W 17, it seems that there are many different plaids. Due to check plaid is the popular pattern in every autumn winter. Therefore, the checks such as autumnal hues glen checks or warm tones library check would prevalent in A/W 18/19.


Trend Forecast Style Sport and College style is back.

The men who like streetwear with activewear and classic menswear that experimenting with new styling skills. They mix and match both of styles to create the new style and bring an exciting new look. They are wearing large insignia hoodies, pullover and bright color coat to make the mix and match and the layering which is highly personal and attractive. So that, Hoodies is on trend.

Fig 36. Fendi SS18

Fig 38. A/W17 AimĂŠ Leon Dore Style

Fig 37. A/W17 Noma t.d. Lookbook


A/W 18/19 Collection


A/W 18/19 Design Collection

Fig 39. A/W 18/19 Collection


Product Specification Sketch:

Graphic:

Style name: ‘06JAPAN’ Short Sleeve T-shirt

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMTK0688

Size range: XS-XL

Colors: Black Beauty / Dark Red

Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt

Fiber content: 100% Cotton Fiber sample:

Garment care: Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean Made in Bangladesh


Cost Cheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘06JAPAN’ Short Sleeve T-shirt

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMTK0688

Country of origin: Bangladesh

Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt

Port: Hong Kong

Content

Application

Supplier

Cut Table Width

FOB Price- Yardage Yards yield/QTY

Finance Charge (%)

Amount

Full body

Kei Ngai

65”

$2.8

0.45

5%

$1.323

Inner back

Lok Mei

-

$0.07

1

-

$0.06

FABRIC DETAILS No. K6070

100% Cotton

GARMENT PACKAGING Main

100%

label with size

Polyester

Care & washing label

100% Polyester

Left bottom inner seam

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

Hang tag with price

Organic materials

Back neck tape

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

-

-

Huakin

-

$0.015

1

-

$0.015

20”x27” x27”

-

Xiamen Weihua

-

$0.2

50pcs/ box

-

$0.004

Poly bag Carton box

TOTAL FABRIC COST

$1.323

CUT AND MAKE

$1.5

TOTAL TRIM

$0.1

EMBELLISHMENT WASH & FINISHING

$0.15 $1.1

TOTAL PACKAGING

$0.159

TOTAL FIRST COST

$4.332

DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST

Remarks: US Dollars

$0 $4.33


Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

Full length

23

24

25

26

27

28

Chest

32

34

36

38

40

42

Waist

30

32

34

36

38

40

Bottom

32

34

36

38

40

42

Straight armhole (point to point)

8

8

8 1/2

9

9

9 1/2

Sleeve length

7

7

7 1/2

8

8 1/2

9

Upper sleeve

13

13

13 1/2

14

14 1/2

15

Sleeve opening

12

12

12

12 1/2

12 1/2

13

Across shoulder

14

15

16

17

18

19

Front neck drop

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

4

Back neck drop

3

3

3

3

3

3

Height of collar/ Rib width

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2


Product Specification Sketch:

Graphic:

Style name: ‘Super Big’ Short Sleeve T-shirt

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMTK0689

Size range: XS-XL

Colors: Night Sky(Black) / Snow White

Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt with pocket

Fiber content:

Garment care:

Full body - 96% Cotton 4% Spandex Pocket - 100% Cotton / 55% Linen 45% Cotton Fiber sample:

Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean

Made in Bangladesh


Cost Cheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Super Big’ Short Sleeve T-shirt

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMTK0689

Country of origin: Bangladesh

Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt with pocket

Port: Hong Kong

Content

Application Supplier

Cut table FOB width price-yar ds

Yardage yield / QTY

Finance charge (%)

Amount

FABRIC DETAILS No. 30669

96% Cotton 4% Spandex

Full body

King Mei

64”

$3

0.5

5%

$1.58

No. K13081 / No. K13136

55% Linen 45% Cotton / 100% Cotton

Pocket

Tai Wah

54”/ 57”

$1.3

0.02

5%

$0.027

GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size

100% Polyester

Inner back

Lok Mei

-

$0.07

1

-

$0.06

Care & washing label

100% Polyester

Left bottom inner seam

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

Hang tag

Organic

Back neck

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

with price

materials

tape

Poly bag

-

-

Huakin

-

$0.015

1

-

$0.015

Carton box

20”x27” x27”

-

Xiamen Weihua

-

$0.2

50pcs/ box

-

$0.004

TOTAL FABRIC COST

$1.608

CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING

$1.6 $0.3 $0.12 $1.1 $0.159

TOTAL FIRST COST

$4.887

DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST Remarks: US Dollars

$0 $4.89


Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

Full length

23

24

25

26

27

28

Chest

32

34

36

38

40

42

Waist

30

32

34

36

38

40

Bottom

32

34

36

38

40

42

Straight armhole

8

8

8 1/2

9

9

9 1/2

Sleeve length

7

7

7 1/2

8

8 1/2

9

Upper sleeve

13

13

13 1/2

14

14 1/2

15

Sleeve opening

12

12

12

12 1/2

12 1/2

13

Across shoulder

14

15

16

17

18

19

Pocket length

5 1/2

5 1/2

5 1/2

5 1/2

5 1/2

6

Pocket width

5

5

5

5

5

5 1/2

Front neck drop

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

4

Back neck drop

3

3

3

3

3

3

Height of collar/ Rib width

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

(point to point)


Product Specification Sketch:

Graphic:

Style name: ‘Hip-hop Dry’ front shot back long T-shirt Season: A/W 18/19 Style number: AWMTK0700

Size range: XS-XL

Color: Goldenrod

Garment description: Knit jersey oversize, front shot back long t-shirt

Fiber content: 100% Cotton

Garment care:

Fiber sample:

Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean Made in Bangladesh


Cost Cheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Hip-hop Dry’ front shot back long T-shirt

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMTK0700

Country of origin: Bangladesh

Garment description: Knit jersey oversize, front shot back long t-shirt

Port: Hong Kong

Content

Application Supplier

Cut table FOB width price-yar ds

Yardage yield / QTY

Finance charge (%)

Amount

FABRIC DETAILS No. K6135(12)

100% Cotton

Full body

Kei Ngai

67”

$2.8

0.47

5%

$1.38

No. 24482

100% Cotton

Cuff

Hung Ming

57”

$0.7

0.03

5%

0.022

Inner back

Lok Mei

-

$0.07

1

-

$0.06

GARMENT PACKAGING Main label

100%

with size

Polyester

Care & washing label

100% Polyester

Left bottom inner seam

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

Hang tag with price

Organic materials

Back neck tape

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

Poly bag

-

-

Huakin

-

$0.015

1

-

$0.015

Carton box

20”x27” x27”

-

Xiamen Weihua

-

$0.2

50pcs/ box

-

$0.004

TOTAL FABRIC COST CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT

$1.4 $1.7 $0.4 $0.15

WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING TOTAL FIRST COST

$1.3 $0.159 $5.109

DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST Remarks: US Dollars

$0 $5.11


Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

Front length

22

23

24

25

26

27

Back length

25

26

27

28

29

30

Chest

33

35

37

39

41

43

Waist

33

35

37

39

41

43

Bottom

33

35

37

39

41

43

Straight armhole (point to point)

8

8

8 1/2

9

9 1/2

10

Sleeve length

8

8

8

8

8

8

Upper sleeve

13 1/2

13 1/2

14

14 1/2

15

15 1/2

Sleeve opening

13

13

13 1/2

14

14 1/2

15

Across shoulder

16

17

18

19

20

21

Front neck drop

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

4

Back neck drop

3

3

3

3

3

3

Height of collar/ Rib width

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2


Product Specification Sketch:

Graphic:

Style name: ‘Big original’ loose hoodie with elbow patch

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMHO988

Size range: XS-XL

Colors:

Garment description:

Tortilla Brown / Snow White

Knit loose hoodie

Fiber content: Full body - TC:65% Polyester 35% Cotton

Garment care: Machine wash - cold (30°C)

Elbow patch - 100% Cotton / 55% Linen 45% Cotton

Do not bleach

Fiber sample:

Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean

Made in Bangladesh


Cost Cheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Big original’ loose hoodie with elbow patch

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMHO988

Country of origin: Bangladesh

Garment description: Knit loose hoodie

Port: Hong Kong

Content

Application

Supplier

Cut table width

FOB priceyards

Yardage Finance yield / QTY charge (%)

Amount

FABRIC DETAILS No. 90810

TC-65P35C

Full body

Mei Kei

72”

$3

1.36

5%

$4.284

No. 17971

100%

Elbow patch

Red Star

56”

$0.7

0.05

5%

$0.037

(Snow White)

Cotton

No. K13081 (Tortilla

55% Linen 45%

Elbow patch

Tai Wah

54”

$1.3

0.05

5%

$0.069

Brown)

Cotton

GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size

100% Polyester

Inner back

Lok Mei

-

$0.07

1

-

$0.06

Care & washing label

100% Polyester

Left bottom inner seam

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

Hang tag with price

Organic materials

Back neck tape

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

Poly bag

-

-

Huakin

-

$0.015

1

-

$0.015

Carton box

20”x27” x27”

-

Xiamen Weihua

-

$0.2

25pcs/ box

-

$0.008

TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Snow White) TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Tortilla Brown) CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT

$4.321 $4.353 $1.5 $0.5 $0.12

WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING

$1.3 $0.163

TOTAL FIRST COST (Snow White) TOTAL FIRST COST (Tortilla Brown)

$7.904 $7.936

DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST (Snow White) TOTAL LANEDED COST (Tortilla Brown) Remarks: US Dollars

$0 $7.9 $7.94


Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

Length

23

24

25

26

27

28

Chest

34

36

38

40

42

44

Waist

34

36

38

40

42

44

Hem

31

33

35

37

39

41

Straight armhole (point to point)

9

9

9 1/2

9 1/2

10

10

Sleeve length

23

24

24

24

25

25

Sleeve opening

8

8

8

8

9

9

Across shoulder

15 1/2

16

16 1/2

17

17 1/2

18

Hood opening

14 1/2

14 1/2

15

15

15

15 1/2

Hood width

10

10

10

10

10

10


Product Specification Sketch:

Graphic:

Style name: ‘Tokyo guy’ loose hoodie with kangaroo pocket

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMHO989

Size range: XS-XL

Colors:

Garment description:

Snow White / Sandstone

Knit loose hoodies with pocket

Fiber content: Full body - 68% Cotton 32% Polyester Pocket - 100% Cotton

Garment care: Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach

Fiber sample:

Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean

Made in Bangladesh


Cost Cheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Tokyo guy’ loose hoodie with kangaroo pocket

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMHO989

Country of origin: Bangladesh

Garment description: Knit loose hoodies with pocket

Port: Hong Kong

Content

Application

Supplier

Cut table width

FOB priceyards

Yardage yield / QTY

Finance charge (%)

Amount

FABRIC DETAILS No. 90632

68% Cotton 32% Polyester

Full body

Mei Kei

72”

$2.5

1.36

5%

$3.57

No. 24482

100% Cotton

Pocket

Hung Ming

57”

$0.7

0.13

5%

$0.096

GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size

100% Polyester

Inner back

Lok Mei

-

$0.07

1

-

$0.06

Care &

100%

Left bottom

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

washing label

Polyester

inner seam

Hang tag with price

Organic materials

Back neck tape

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

Poly bag

-

-

Huakin

-

$0.015

1

-

$0.015

Carton

20”x27”

-

Xiamen

-

$0.2

25pcs/

-

$0.008

box

x27”

Weihua

box

TOTAL FABRIC COST CUT AND MAKE

$3.666 $1.5

TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING TOTAL FIRST COST

$0.7 $0.1 $1.2 $0.163 $7.329

DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST Remarks: US Dollars

$0 $7.33


Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

Length

23

24

25

26

27

28

Chest

34

36

38

40

42

44

Waist

34

36

38

40

42

44

Hem

31

33

35

37

39

41

Straight armhole (point to point)

9

9

9 1/2

9 1/2

10

10

Sleeve length

23

24

24

24

25

25

Sleeve opening

8

8

8

8

9

9

Across shoulder

15 1/2

16

16 1/2

17

17 1/2

18

Hood opening

14 1/2

14 1/2

15

15

15

15 1/2

Hood width

10

10

10

10

10

10

Pocket length

8

8

8

8

8

8

Upper pocket width

8 1/2

8 1/2

8 1/2

8 1/2

8 1/2

8 1/2

Lower pocket width

12

12

12

12

12

12


Product Specification Sketch:

Graphic:

Style name: ‘DRY83’ long hoodies with kangaroo pocket

Season: A/W 18/19

Style number: AWMHO990

Size range: XS-XL

Colors: Black Beauty / Goldenrod

Garment description: Knit long hoodies

Fiber content:

Garment care:

Full body - 100% Cotton Pocket - 85% Polyester 15% Rayon / 100% Cotton

Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach

Fiber sample:

Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean

Made in Bangladesh


Cost Cheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘DRY83’ long hoodies with kangaroo pocket Season: A/W 18/19 Style number: AWMHO989

Country of origin: Bangladesh

Garment description: Knit long hoodies

Port: Hong Kong

Content

Application

Supplier

Cut table

FOB price-

Yardage yield /

Finance Amount charge

width

yards

QTY

(%)

FABRIC DETAILS No. 91198

100% Cotton

Full body

Mei Kei

72”

$4

1.35

5%

$5.67

No. 17971

100% Cotton

Pocket

Red Star

56”

$0.7

0.05

5%

$0.037

85% Polyester 15% Rayon

Pocket

Tai Wah

58”

$2.8

0.04

5%

$0.118

(Goldenrod) No. K11796 (Black Beauty)

GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size

100% Polyester

Inner back

Lok Mei

-

$0.07

1

-

$0.06

Care &

100%

Left bottom

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

washing label

Polyester

inner seam

Hang tag

Organic

Back neck

Lok Mei

-

$0.04

1

-

$0.04

with price

materials

tape

Poly bag

-

-

Huakin

-

$0.01 5

1

-

$0.015

Carton box

20”x27”

-

Xiamen

-

$0.2

25pcs/

-

$0.008

x27”

Weihua

box

TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Goldenrod) TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Black Beauty) CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT

$5.707 $5.778 $1.1 $0.7 $0.4

WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING TOTAL FIRST COST (Goldenrod) TOTAL FIRST COST (Black Beauty) DUTY / QUOTA

$1.3 $0.163 $9.37 $9.441 $0

TOTAL LANEDED COST (Goldenrod) TOTAL LANEDED COST (Black Beauty) Remarks: US Dollars

$9.4 $9.44


Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

Length

27

28

29

30

30

31

Chest

32

34

36

38

40

42

Waist

32

34

36

38

40

42

Hem

32

34

36

38

40

42

Straight armhole (point to point)

9

9

9 1/2

9 1/2

10

10

Sleeve length

20

20 1/2

21

21 1/2

22

22 1/2

Sleeve opening

8

8

8

8

8

8 1/2

Across shoulder

15 1/2

16

16 1/2

17

17 1/2

18

Hood opening

14 1/2

15

15

15 1/2

15 1/2

16

Hood width

10

10

10

10

10

10

Pocket length

7 1/2

7 1/2

7 1/2

7 1/2

7 1/2

7 1/2

Upper pocket width

9

9

9

9

9

9

Lower pocket width

12

12

12

12

12

12


A/W 18/19 Collection Analysis


Fig 40. Superdry campaign AW16


Country of origin

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Table 2. Origin of A/W 18/19

As reported in the comparative shop report that, Superdry t-shirt is

manufacturing in Turkey and all the hoodies made in China. About Turkey, the labor costs in China less than half of Turkey's. And the fabric average cost of Turkey's is US$10 a kilogram, China's average is US$4 per kilo (Dearsley, 2016). It shows that the labor cost and fabric cost of Turkey are higher than China. The adequate and low-cost labor supply are the biggest strength of Chinese garment companies’ over the garment from other countries. (LIU and XING 2010, p.34) But Han [n.d.] states that "The regional governments across China were forced to increase their minimum wage in a bid to retain workers. Shanghai, which has the highest minimum wage in China, the minimum wage of month raises from US$170 in 2010 to US$327 in 2016. The minimum wage for most major cities of China also doubled to around US$239 per month in 2016. “ The labor salary is a heavy burden on production cost.

Fig 42. Labour cost comparison

Fig 40. The material and origin of Superdry products

Upon the above information, the new collection production would move to Bangladesh to manufacturing. The first reason is Bangladesh's labor cost is lower than the China or other producing countries. Moreover, there are almost 80 million people in Bangladesh which is a huge labor supply. (Kenix Lee, 2016)


Country of origin Furthermore, Bangladesh has a strong advantage in exports, since Bangladesh enjoying the duty-free access to major markets including the European Union, Japan and China currently (Kinex Lee, 2016). As the competitive labor cost and exempt of the export tax that the new collection selling price would be more reasonable.

Besides, Bangladesh is a key Belt and Road partner of China. Bangladesh is an important partner on the envisaged Bangladesh-China-India-Myanmar (BCIM) Economic Corridor. The Corridor will link up the key city such as India’s Kolkata, China’s Kunming, with Myanmar’s Mandalay and Bangladesh’s Dhaka. (Kenix Lee, 2016) It decreases the transportation fee and times, as well as Bangladesh, is very close to China include Hong Kong that Superdry could use the Just In Time inventory strategy to increase efficiency and decrease waste. This is a retailer-driven concept aimed at reducing costs for businesses in the supply chain (Barnes and Gaynor, 2006). These could be an advantage the new collection since the collection is focused on the Asian market.

Fig 43. Route of BCIM Economic Corridor

Fig 44. ETI

Although the labor right of Bangladesh is not good, Superdry is the member of the Ethical Trading Initiative adopted the ETI Base Code as the Ethical Trading Code across the supply base. Further, the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and the International Labour Organization’s Core Conventions on Labour Standards are used. Both would protect the workers and improve their live. (SuperGroup annual report 2017, p.29)


Since the trend of A/W 18/19 is

Tortilla Brown /

Sandstone /

Black Beauty /

Black Beauty /

Night Sky(Black) /

Snow White

Snow White

Goldenrod

Dark Red

Snow White

Goldenrod

Table 3. Color of A/W 18/19

Fig 45. Gretchen Jones at Fall 2012 NYFW use AirDye

In the future, there are many methods to reduce the water pollution which made by the garment industry. For example, AirDye is a dyeing technique is use air to scatter dye, instead of water. Use AirDye to dye that the colour would last longer and more resilient to chemicals as well as washings since it is embedded dye in textile fibers. (Kaye, 2013, para. 7) Gould (2014) claims that "AirDye technology could save up to 95% of the water, 86% of the energy and 84% of the greenhouse gases used in conventional print and dye methods." (para. 5)

neutral and bright color. So that the neutral tone is the main color of the A/W 18/19 collection such as Goldenrod and Sandstone. the second color is Black beauty and Snow White as it is the timeless color. The fashion environmental impacts have increased, there is around 20% of industrial water pollution is from textile dyeing and treatment. (Gould, 2014, para.5) Although the neutral color mix with bright color in the garment is the trend, it would increase the tie dye process in fabric dye or fiber dye. Therefore, the new collection is not extensive to mix the neutral and bright as one.

Superdry is also seeking more innovative and sustainable solutions to protect the environment. The manufacturer of Superdry in Sri Lanka made the considerable investment in equipment to support lower impacts on water and energy usage by 2020. There is machine uses bubbles to apply the garment softeners which decreases around 90% water usage. (SuperGroup annual report 2017, p.30)

Color


The new collection base on the

brand DNA and the trend to design, provide more layer and more choice to the customer, especially the younger such as Gen Z. The hoodies of the new collection are designed to loose and oversize. The first design is the loose hoodies with the elbow patch, the elbow patch is using the glen plaid fabric which the popular pattern in A/W 18/19. Second is the different design of a kangaroo pocket, such as Sandstone color would mix with the bright tartan plaid. The color and pattern are on trend and still maintain the characteristic of Superdry. The last is a long hoodie with print and kangaroo pocket that Superdry has not produced before which can try to trial the market response.

Fig 46. Sketch of Collection

For the t-shirt, the first one is using different color and the fabric. The second is the glen plaid pocket on the left chest that Superdry less to produce. Also, the big and bright Superdry logo is eye-catching. The last one is front shot back long t-shirt in oversize like hip-hop style that is the layer Superdry never provide before. Further, the color is bold that could attract the younger. All the design match the A/W 18/19 trend in color, pattern and style. Besides, the design reserve the Superdry characteristic, Japanese-inspired, unique detailing and tailored fits etc.

Moreover, the hang tag of the new collection is using the environment-friendly material, the recycled paper and soy ink to make that could help to protect the environment. Fig 47. Lok Mei organic materials hang tag

Details


Sizing Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch) Full length Chest Waist Bottom Straight armhole (point to point) Sleeve length Upper sleeve Sleeve opening Across shoulder Front neck drop Back neck drop Height of collar/ Rib width Table 4. Size sample

As per SWOT analysis and the conclusion in competitive shop report that Superdry

has already entered the Chinese market and it has not received much response. Because of we could not satisfy their need before, and now Superdry focus on the Chinese market and launch the new collection for the Asian. Although Superdry provides a wide range of sizes, the largest go to XXXL which can fit most of the body type. However, the smaller sizing is needed for Asian males since they are tiny when compare with the European customers. Thereby, the size chart would be down to XXS and provide the size from XXS to XL. Since XXL size is too big for the Asian, so it does not need to reserve. There are total six sizes would be offered in new collection to satisfy the target group demand.


Fig 48. Superdry AW11

Retail Planning


Price As per the competitive shop report, the target customer of Superdry is young adults. The college

student is the main target of this group. However, the products price before which is too high for them that some of them maybe could not afford. Due to the globalization and the popularity of online store etc. which make the customer can compare between "products and services with their prices" at the same time. Therefore, the marketers need to use a wiser method to pricing and attract the consumers (Hussain and Eman, 2016). In the new collection, in addition to the main target group, we also want to attract the Generation Z to be our new customer. Therefore, the new collection selling price would be lower than the collection before. However, the price would belong to customary pricing, it would near the past retail price range.

Fig 49. Retail price of the Superdry t-shirt and hoodies on online store

In Hong Kong, the t-shirt price is HK$450 (US$58) and the hoodies is HK$780 (US$100). On the online store, the average retail price of hoodies is US$100, and the average retail price of t-shirt is US$51.3. The price between Hong Kong as well as an official online store is almost in this range.

Fig 50. T-short & price tag in Hong Kong


Price As per the information above that, the suggested price would refer to the past retail price and the target customer can afford or not.

Suggested retail price US$85

US$95

US$95

US$45

US$48

(HK$663)

(HK$745)

(HK$745)

(HK$360)

(HK$375)

US$55 (HK$435) Table 5. Suggested retail peice

Fig 51. Price range of Superdry and competitors

Most of the new collection suggested retail price is lower the past retail price. Moreover, some of the new products retail price would more competitive with the competitors.


VM The excellent visual mer-

chandising displays would influence the consumer feeling and some of them may often buy the products unwittingly base on the current mood. (Hefer and Cant, 2013) Fig 52. Yuen Long YOHO store

Since the new collection focus on the young adults especially on the college student. Therefore, the visual merchandising plan to use the original color of the store and add the material of wood or brick to design like the old college in England to create the feeling of the old-style England college. Fig 53. Magdalen College, Founders Tower and Cloisters, Oxford England

For the window display, it would be created an old-style book wall. Also, the man mannequin would wear the new collection and the Superdry pack back on the shoulder. The vintage wood table would place in front of the door and the new collection would put on it. The neutral tone glen plaid to decorate the cashier could increase the atmosphere and lead the customer into this environment. Moreover, music and smell also can contribute the mood. Create the Superdry own flavor such as the taste of wood and playing the slow and calming music in the store to impress the customers. Fig 54. Old library


Packaging Retailers can improve the environmental such as produce the product with fewer

resources or without harmful substances and replace the traditional product; there would be the positive environmental impact. (The Danish Environmental Protection Agency, [n.d.])

For the new collection, the new paper shopping bag would be launch, the new paper bag makes by an organic paper that we would just print the logo on it and would not design much more. Also, it can recyclable which is less to destroy the environment.

Fig 55. Superdry original paper bag

Fig 56. Brown recycled paper bag


Promotion Social Media Since the target customer of Superdry is young adults, the promotional method should close to

their lifestyle or living habit. Let's the target easier to get our information The young adults include Millennials and Gen Z, both group are born in the boom of digital technology. Gen Z most spend time on their smartphone and Gen Y most spend time on the desktop that to get the information. Also, the social media they use daily are Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Snapchat. Facebook is the top social media in Gen Y. Use percentage of YouTube and Facebook are similar in Gen Z. Also, Instagram and Snapchat in Gen Z are lower than Facebook, but the used percentage is more than Gen Y.

Fig 57. Gen Y and Gen Z devivces

Fig 58. Social Media

As Andrus (2015) point out, Gen Z prefers Images more than text since the short and honeyed content attract Gen Z. So, it is no wonder that YouTube, Instagram and Snapchat ranked so high with them.


Promotion As per the above information, Youtube and Instagram are the most should be used to promote our new collection since these platforms are the most popular in Gen Y and Z. To increase the discussion of new collection, we can hold some activities online. For example, the online campaign before called ‘Superdry Tweet Fuel’ on Twitter to create the brand awareness. We can launch the event on Weibo that the people hashtags like #Superdry, #AW1819Dry and #NeutralSuperdry, after confirmed they follow our official Weibo we would draw out the lucky person to send the new collection product to them.

Celebrity

Fig 59. Superdry Tweet Fuel

Also, as the Superdry do not have the spokesperson even in England, we can invite the Hong Kong celebrity to be the spokesperson for this collection. The best is Matthew Ho (何廣沛) since he is new and popular male artist in Hong Kong, his image is healthy and energetic which is match our brand.

Fig 60. Matthew Ho


Conclusion To conclude, in the investigation of comparative shop report, it is discovered that

Superdry needs to provide more creative design and layer to the customer. Further, it found that although Superdry entered Asian market before, it does not get much response. One of the reasons is we did not know the customers need. So, now Superdry should more focus on Asian market to develop this huge potential market. Through the research and analysis of customer and the recent fashion trend, it is found that the customer hobby on fashion that the coming season collection would meet their need. Further, Superdry have consummate sustainability policy. However, the upstream sustainability can be more improve such as using the eco-friendly material to produce the garment. Downstream sustainability would change the original paper bag to organic paper bag. It is believed that Superdry would able to be the strong global lifestyle brand with perfect sustainability policy.

(2647 words)


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Photo Reference Fig 29. Vogue, 2017. Ermenegildo Zegna [digital image]. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/ermenegildo-zegna/slideshow/collection#2 [Accessed 22 November 2017]. Fig 30. María Bernad, 2017. Blue & Neutral Color [digital image]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BaPawgUgpKK/?taken-by=maria_bernad [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 31. Nane Feist, 2017. Baby Purple & Neutral Color [digital image]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BR1AIEJhTtr/?hl=zh-tw&taken-by=nanefeist [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 32. ELLEUK, 2017. Bright & Neutral [digital image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/120541727507163413/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 33. BRITTFURN, 2017. GALLOWAY PLAID [digital image]. Available at: https://www.brittfurn.se/p/tyger-2164/tillverkare-2237/colefax-fowler-2240/colefax-fowler-tyg-galloway-plaid-natural.html [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 34. BEAMS, 2017. Blue Check [digital image]. Available at: http://www.beams.co.jp/item/beamsplus/shirt/11114390965/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 35. Vogue, 2017. Acne Studios Spring 18 [digital image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/373446994093714975/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 36. Vogue, 2017. Fendi SS18 [digital image]. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/fendi/slideshow/collection#21 [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 37. Noma t.d., 2017. A/W17 Noma t.d. Lookbook [digital image]. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/zh/2017/2/noma-t-d-fw17 [Accessed 18 November 2017]. Fig 38. Aimé Leon Dore, (2017), A/W17 Aimé Leon Dore Style [digital image]. Available at: https://www.aimeleondore.com/pages/autumn-winter-2017 [Accessed 18 November 2017]. Fig 39. A/W 18/19 Collection, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 40. Superdry, 2016. Superdry campaign AW16 [digital image]. Available at: http://www.net-kadin.com/includes/templates/pro-59/images/M59_flash3.jpg [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 46. Sketch of Collection, Author’s own, 2017 Fig 47. Lok Mei, 2017. Lok Mei organic materials hang tag [digital image]. Available at: https://lokmeico.en.alibaba.com/productshowimg/440448976-212155992/Recycle_Hang_Tags_Organic_materials.html?spm=a2700.8304367.prge37c812.2.23c14306Mc6VCB [Accessed 22 November 2017]. Fig 48. Superdry, 2011. Superdry AW11 [digital image]. Available at: https://www.thefashionisto.com/louis-simonon-tom-barker-by-jacob-sutton-for-superdry-usa-fall-2011-campaign/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 49. Superdry, 2017. Retail price of the Superdry t-shirt and hoodies on online store [digital image]. Available at: https://www.superdry.com/mens [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 50. T-short & price tag in Hong Kong, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 51. Price range of Superdry and competitors, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 52. Yuen Long YOHO store, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 53. JANELLE DAVIS, 2013. Magdalen College, Founders Tower and Cloisters, Oxford England [digital image]. Available at: http://indianapublicmedia.org/harmonia/henry-honest-dan/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 54. Anon., [n.d.], Old library [digitial image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/407716572486727972/. [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 55. Elaine, [n.d.], Superdry original paper bag [digital image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/333759022356778605/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 56. Party Ark, 2017. Brown recycled paper bag [digital image]. Available at: https://www.partyark.co.uk/static/zoom/11817.jpg [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 57. Matt Kleinschmit, 2015. Gen Y and Gen Z devivces [digital image]. Available at: https://www.visioncritical.com/generation-z-infographics/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 58. Matt Kleinschmit, 2015. Social Media [digital image]. Available at: https://www.visioncritical.com/generation-z-infographics/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 59. Brand movers India, 2012. Superdry Tweet Fuel [digital image]. Available at: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/woCiiNJ8qL0/maxresdefault.jpg [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 60. Matthew Ho, 2017. Matthew Ho [digital image]. Available at: https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/14719599_1826039071007753_4153958077948755968_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTM3NzM0MDU0NTU2Mjk3MDMzM Q%3D%3D.2 [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Table 1. SWOT Analysis, Author’s own, 2017. Table 2. Origin of A/W 18/19, Author’s own, 2017. Table 3. Color of A/W 18/19, Author’s own, 2017. Table 4. Size sample, Author’s own, 2017. Table 5. Suggested retail price, Author’s own, 2017.


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Superdry - Fashion Buying Project (Part2)  

International fashion business fashion buying project - Superdry (Part2) Moon Lau

Superdry - Fashion Buying Project (Part2)  

International fashion business fashion buying project - Superdry (Part2) Moon Lau

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