to Santa Margherita Ligure (about 20 miles southeast of Genoa), where they celebrated a milestone with family and friends . . . Mike and Janie Badger, our old friends from Utah (and owners of the Gonzo Inn in Moab), joined us in late July in Porto
Ni and Krissy — Happy Anniversary!
Vecchio, Corsica. After relaxing with a cool drink, the girls went grocery shopping and Mike and I met them for lunch. Later in the afternoon, we moved to Pinarellu and anchored just south of town in crystal-clear water over white sand. It looked like you could touch the bottom even though it was four meters deep. Here Krissy and Janie took advantage of the calm water to play with our new SUPs. We swam and dined on the raw tuna we'd caught crossing from Sicily. After some more catching up, it was time to head north up the east coast of Corsica to Plage de Canella, where once again we anchored in four meters of water so clear that if you dove in, it looked like you would stick your head in the sand. It was also quite warm: 86F. We swam to shore for a drink and then back to Finalmente for dinner. As with every cruise, there's always something. Our 'something' this time was that the port toilet stopped working Portoferraio, Elba. Napoleon was held here from 1814 until his escape a year later.
— again. And the arrangement of having to use the head on the other side led to Janie's taking a bad fall. Her swollen foot was obviously painful but she was such a trooper that you would not have known it. (Update on Janie; she is back home, doing great and even back attending her Zumba classes.) The problem with the head was discovered after we'd taken it completely apart — again. We are still looking for the person who put dental floss in the toilet that jammed the macerator so it could not spin. I intend to keelhaul the perpetrator — under both hulls — when found. We ended our Corsican visit with a stop at Port Taverna the next day, once again enjoying the warm water, cool drinks and another beautiful Mediterranean sunset. The next day it was off to Elba, sailing almost the entire way in 12 knots of wind on a loose point. Perfect for a smooth, relaxing sail. We anchored in the Marina di Campo area on the south coast of the island and just kicked back and relaxed and explored for a few days. (Unfortunately, Janie did not see much of Elba from the shore. She was still experiencing too much pain to get onto and off the boat comfortably.) Our next stop was Spiaggia di Fetovaia, a few miles to the west, for lunch and a swim. The water seemed almost clearer here than in Corsica, and just as warm — a most beautiful bathtub. The stop seemed too short, but we wanted to use the balance of daylight hours to sail to the north side of Elba. We ended up running out of daylight and anchored at Spiaggia di Procchio, where we found the warmest water of the summer: 88F! There is a great beach area, but the water here had a strange, green color. We are guessing algae from being too warm. The next day we headed on to Portoferraio, a really charming city full of 18th century buildings and a 16th century citadel built by the Duke of Florence. We could not imagine why Napoleon ever left! Our sail from Elba to Portovenere on the Italian mainland could not have been more perfect — 80 miles on one tack the whole way. Once anchored off the island across from Portovenere, we dinghied ashore for dinner. From there, we harborhopped north, stopping at Le Grazie, Riomaggiore (on the beautiful Cinque Terre coast), Corniglia and Vernazza, where we took a free ball for the night. The last leg to Santa Margherita Ligure, on the Ital-
ian Riviera, was all motoring. Santa Margherita Ligure — I usually shortend it to just "Santa" — was the place Krissy and I chose to celebrate our 50th anniversary, and friends and family started arriving soon after we did. As well as being one of the most picturesque Italian ports, 'Santa' is known for its food. The best gnocchi in mushroom/truffle sauce is at Skipper's on the south side of the harbor. It's to die for. Then came the big occasion! On August 17, 1968, Krissy and I
The November 2018 issue of the West's premier sailing and marine magazine.