OF CHARTERING blue, with a coastline dominated by inter esting limestone outcroppings, coves and cliffs. This, of course, sets the stage for some great snorkeling, exploring in kayaks or just cruising in close to have a look. Ashore we found equally exciting options. Each place we stopped along the way offered something new. Quiet, small villages were quaint, and we felt very welcome as foreigners just walking around enjoying the wonderful, old architecture in small neighborhoods and village centers. The smaller places we visited included Trogir, Lastovo and Rogac on Solta. In larger towns we loved to visit local fresh produce markets, and enjoyed walking to nearby restaurants and shops. The larger cities we visited included Split, Hvar and, of course, Dubrovnik. All offered a wide variety of restaurants, nightlife, DAN & ALISON LEININGER
date guests for dinner. But on this night, we were the only customers. We were told that there really wasn’t a choice for dinner; we were having "white fish." We were, however, offered some choices for starters. I opted for fresh mussels, and, as soon as our waitress returned to the kitchen, her mother (the cook) scurried down to the waterfront and brought back a bowl loaded with — you guessed it — fresh mussels. As we enjoyed the view, and got into our first course, the waitress’ young boy came out to one of the nearby tables and entertained us with a mock battle between toy superhero figures. Later, as we were eating dessert, Grandma and the boy went down to the waterfront. Soon we heard screams of excitement as the boy ran back up to the house, fetched a bat-sized stick, and ran back out again. A few moments later, after more excited yells, some scuffling and a few whacks, Grandma and grandson proudly paraded back to the house with a 5-foot eel. This, presumably, would be the next night’s meal. Sights & Shopping — Croatia's coastal region is very beautiful. The water is clear
Croatia's distinctive architecture adds much to the charm of its coastal cities, such as Hvar, pictured here.
shopping, open-air markets and lots of cobble stone alleyways to explore. Most of the restaurants we ate at had outdoor dining which made peoplewatching easy. There are still good deals on (native) red coral jewelry, Italian glass jewelry and collectables. Several of the villages we visited were
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The July 2007 issue of the West's premier sailing and marine magazine.