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The car did start again, but I could only keep it running by keeping the foot on the gas. When I did that, the engine sputtered and backfired wildly. So I shut it down for the last time.I am well aware of the issue concerning the apex seals. This may even be the issue I am dealing with now. But I just want to know if anybody else has experienced the same issues and to get any information you may have on the matter.One concern of mine is that I fuel http://FuelSavingTab.comed up at a gas station that was currently out of premium fuel http://FuelSavingTab.com (91 octane). So I used an additive (octane boost with Lead (Pb) substitute). I find it hard to believe that such a common product would damage the engine. But I do not know for sure if it is compatible with a rotary engine to rule it out as just a coincidence. In any case, I plan on draining the remaining fuel http://FuelSavingTab.com.I have much experience with working on motors, but none with rotary engines. So I have begun the process of removing the engine. Found metal shavings in the intake. Probably related to the sputtering and backfires. The engine is not out yet but I suspect the housing for the second rotor is done for. The diagnostics test read that cylinder 2 misfired and system too lean. Due to my lack of experience with these engines, I will only go as far as taking the engine out and finding a professional to do the rebuild. My question is simply involving: What tricky obstacles do I face removing the engine. I'm 21 years old, I have overhauled a few engines with few difficulties, but I am completely in the dark when it comes to rotary engines.If you have any tips or tricks from experience or hard knowledge I would greatly appreciate it if you would share that information from one rotary lover to the next.I knew what I was getting into when I purchased this car. 30,000 miles on the engine as of now since the engine recall on this vehicle. I know that the manufacturer recommends a rebuild at 40,000 miles. And I have read on the RX-8 car club ( which I am a member of) that many people have been able to get 100,000 or more miles out of the engine. I guess I am one of the unfortunate ones. I have always kept the rpm above 3,000 to help prevent carbon buildup. I have also spun the rpm above 6,000 rpm to help remove carbon buildup regularly (at first I was told to redline the engine occasionally to do this but upon more research I found that 6,000 rpm is sufficient). Again, any help from those experienced in working with rotary engines would be very much appreciated. insurance auto auction seattle bridgestone potenza 225 45r17 90w. Cost of maintenance for volvo s70 2013 mustang feels like its not getting enough gas when i drive hesitates to go then its fine again? I have a 1996 2.2 4 cylinder VTEC engine Honda Accord EX with a little over 102,600 miles. Automatic transmission. Even before I did all the work, I would get barely 300 miles per tank doing 90% city driving. After doing all the work I have done to it, it still gets the same amount. Here is what I have replaced / done within the last three months of owning the car:- New Michelin tires (Old tires were cracking)- New Spark Plugs (NGK V-power - cheapest NGK spark plugs for the vehicle)- New Spark Plug Wires (NGK)- New fuel http://FuelSavingTab.com Filter (Napa Gold)- New fuel http://FuelSavingTab.com Cap- New Distributor Cap Rotor- New Thermostat - New OE Premium Ceramic Brakes (Front and Back)- New Water Pump- New Timing Belt (kit) Installed- New Air Filter (K N)- New (re-manufactured) passenger-side CV axle- New Battery (Duralast)- Oil changed about 1,200 miles ago with 5W-30 (Recommended) using Penzoil conventional and an STP filter- Transmission fluid exchanged about 500 miles ago- Power steering fluid replaced 50 miles ago- I use nothing but 87 octane (Recommended) gasoline from Teir-1 gas stations (gasoline with detergent additives in it) which would be Shell, Chevron, Texico/76, and Mobil- I rarely ever use the AC- I always keep the tires properly inflated- I don't accelerate hard. I slowly build up speed while driving and keep it steady at posted speed limits- I let the car warm up a little bit on a cold start before driving off- I don't keep very much in the vehicle in terms of weight and usually only transport myself.I really don't know why i'm only averaging 20 MPG. I should be getting at least 25 MPG in this vehicle. I understand this is the winter season, but this is central Texas where it never snows and the coldest it will get will be around 50 degrees.Is their anything else that could possibly be effecting the vehicle as to why I'm only getting these results?I only keep an emergency tool kit in the trunk. most common short term savings vehicles reid car sales aberdeen.


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