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rEciPES

Steak Tataki with Eggplant Miso Puree

Prosciutto Wrapped White Fish

sweet and piquant, the eggplant miso puree makes a beautiful partner for perfectly cooked steak tataki

crunchy red onions and the moist citrus fruit give this salad a tktktkrefreshing zest

Recipe on p.xx

Party Platters! Share platterS are the entertaining host’s dream. try these reciPes, which are guaranteed to imPress. text, recipes & styling by katrina meynink photography by danny eastwood

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appetite.com.sg

photo by anton korbjyn


platters of all shapes and sizes across a table groaning with beautiful food will create a highimpact first impression as your guests arrive. it keeps entertaining communal, informal and relaxed as guests help themselves. you can pre-prepare many elements of these dishes to keep your entertaining stress free, allowing you plenty of time to entertain your guests.

Prosciutto Wrapped White fish with Gremolata salty prosciutto pairs well with sweet white fish, and gremolata adds a nice crunch recipe on p.xx photo by anton korbjyn

appetite.com.sg

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steak tataki with eggplant miso puree and microherb salad serves 10 600 2 2 1/2

g wagyu flat iron steak tbsp fish sauce tbsp mirin tbsp soy sauce

eggplant miso puree 1 medium eggplant juice of ½ a lemon salt and pepper to seasson 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp white miso herb salad ½ spanish onion, finely sliced 1 generous handful microherbs ¼ cup coriander leaves juice of ½ lemon 1 tbsp black sesame seeds 1. preheat oven to 200°c. place steak in a small non-reactive dish. combine fish sauce, mirin and soy sauce in a bowl. whisk to combine then pour over steak and refrigerate for 4-6 hrs or overnight. 2. cut the eggplant in half lengthways, and score the flesh with a knife. rub with the lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, drizzle with half the olive oil and wrap in a large piece of foil. place on a dish and cook in pre-heated oven for 20-25 mins. 3. remove from the oven and leave eggplant in the foil to cool down. open the foil over a bowl to make sure you catch all the juices, place the eggplant flat on a plate and spoon out the cooked flesh, putting the skin to one side. place the flesh in a bowl with the juices and add the miso, then place all the ingredients in a blender, add the remaining olive oil, and blend to form a smooth purée. season with a bit more lemon juice if needed. 4. remove steak from marinade, pat dry and char-grill over medium heat, turning once. cook rare (1-2 mins each side). slice across the grain and set aside. 5. to finish, place teaspoonfuls of eggplant miso on a plate. Layer the sliced steak across the puree. toss the herb salad and place on top of the steak.

prosciutto wrapped white fish with gremolata makes 12 12-14 slices of prosciutto 12 small white fish (try whiting or any small market fresh white fish) 2 lemons, thinly sliced 4 cloves garlic, peeled, thinly sliced 400 ml dry white wine 1/4 cup olive oil

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appetite.com.sg

gremolata 150 g sourdough bread crumbs 1 cup coarsely chopped flat leaf parsley Finely grated rind of 1 lemon 1 garlic clove, crushed salt and pepper to season to serve: Lemon wedges and aïoli 1. make the gremolata: combine all ingredients in a bowl, and season to taste. 2. place 12 lengths of kitchen string on a work surface. place a slice of prosciutto over each then place a fish on top. Fill fish cavities with lemon slices and garlic then wrap prosciutto around and secure with string. 3. place fish on a roasting tray lined with baking paper. drizzle with wine and oil, season and roast in pre-heated oven at 190°c until fish is just cooked through (12-15 mins). 4. toast the gremolata mixture in a small fry pan over medium heat until the crumbs are golden in colour. remove and keep warm. 5. remove fish from oven, scatter over gremolata and serve hot or warm with lemon wedges and a dollop of aïoli.

beef brisket sliders serves 4 beef brisket 6 cups beef stock 1 cup red wine 8 shallots, peeled 4 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed

Beef Brisket Sliders bite into the melt-inyour-mouth beef, soft buns and warm cheese Recipe on p.xx

1 tbsp coriander seeds 500 ml water 1 kg beef brisket salt and pepper to season mustard sauce 100 ml thickened cream ½ tbsp worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp dijon mustard 1 tbsp tomato sauce 12 small burger buns or dinner rolls lettuce leaves, washed and dried 2 vine ripened tomatoes, sliced 4 pickled gherkins, thinly sliced 12 slices gruyere cheese 1. to cook brisket, combine beef stock, wine, shallots, garlic, coriander seeds and water in a casserole. bring to the boil over high heat. boil for 2 mins, reduce heat and simmer for 20 mins. 2. remove from heat, add beef, cover and transfer to pre-heated oven at 150°c. cook until very tender (5 hrs). set aside to rest in liquid (1 hr) then coarsely shred. season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm. 3. For mustard sauce, simmer cream in a saucepan over medium heat until reduced by half (5-7 mins). remove from heat, stir through worcestershire sauce and mustard, season to taste and refrigerate until cool. 4. toast cut sides of buns. top with lettuce, tomato, pulled beef brisket, gherkin and gruyere cheese. spread mustard sauce on top half of bun and sandwich. serve warm.


Pulled Pulled Pork Pork pulled pork pulled tacos porkwith tacos with chipotle chipotle tomatotomato & guacamole & guacamoleTacos with Tacos with

serves 24serves 24 1 3 1 3 3 2

(1.2kg) pork 1 (1.2kg) shoulder pork shoulder tbsp coarsely 3 tbspground coarsely black ground pepper black pepper tsp cayenne 1 tsppepper cayenne pepper tbsp dark 3 tbsp browndark sugar brown sugar tbsp paprika 3 tbsp paprika tbsp salt 2 tbsp salt

chipotle chipotle TomatoTomato & & Guacamole Guacamole

taste the heat taste ofthe mexico heat of mexico with the dark with and thesmoky dark and smoky flavours of flavours chipotleof chipotle adorning soft, adorning slow soft, slow cooked pork cooked pork

Recipe on p.xx Recipe on p.xx pickled onion pickled onion 1 red onion, 1 red peeled, onion, finely peeled, sliced finely sliced 2 jalepeno2 chili, jalepeno seeded, chili, finely seeded, chopped finely chopped ½ cup white ½ vinegar cup white vinegar 3 tbsp sugar 3 tbsp sugar ½ tsp dried ½ mexican tsp driedoregano mexican oregano ½ tsp salt½to tsp taste salt to taste

chipotlechipotle tomato sauce tomato sauce 60 ml olive 60oilml olive oil 1 small onion, 1 small peeled, onion, finely peeled, dicedfinely diced 2 garlic cloves, 2 garlic finely cloves, chopped finely chopped 400 g canned 400 italian g canned chopped italiantomatoes chopped tomatoes 2 tbsp chipotle 2 tbsp chillies chipotle in adobo chillies(or in use adobo (or use 1 dried chipotle, 1 driedsoftened chipotle,insoftened warm water) in warm water) guacamole guacamole 2 avocadoes 2 avocadoes 1 roma tomato, 1 roma coarsely tomato,chopped coarsely chopped ½ small spanish ½ small onion, spanish finely onion, chopped finely chopped ¼ cup chopped ¼ cupcoriander chopped coriander 1 small red1 chilli, smallfinely red chilli, chopped finely chopped juice of 1 lime juice of 1 lime to serve:to soft serve: corn tortillas, soft corn fresh tortillas, coriander fresh coriander leaves, avocado leaves,and avocado lime and lime 1. marinate1.the marinate pork with thepeppers, pork withsugar, peppers, sugar, paprika andpaprika salt. cover and salt. withcover cling film withand cling chill film and chill for at least for 2 hrs at to least allow 2 hrs flavours to allow toflavours infuse. to infuse. 2. place the 2.pork placeinthe a casserole pork in a dish, casserole coverdish, cover and roast in and pre-heated roast in pre-heated oven at 150°c oven at 150°c for 3-4 hrsfor or until 3-4 hrs pork or is until tender porkand is tender pulls and pulls apart easily. apart drain easily. excess drain liquid, excess shred liquid, pork.shred pork. 3. For pickled 3. For onion, pickled combine onion,allcombine ingredients all ingredients in a bowl, cover in a bowl, and cover set aside. and set aside. 4. For chipotle 4. Fortomato chipotle sauce, tomato heatsauce, the oilheat the oil in a saucepan in a over saucepan medium overheat, medium add onion heat, add onion and garlic and garlic stir occasionally and stir occasionally until tender until tender (3-4 mins).(3-4 addmins). tomato add and tomato chillies, and and chillies, and simmer until simmer slightly until thickened. slightly thickened. transfer totransfer to a food processor, a food processor, blend untilblend smooth, untilreturn smooth, return to saucepan to and saucepan cook over and cook medium overheat medium heat until reduced untiltoreduced a sauce to consistency a sauce consistency (about (about 10 mins). season 10 mins). to season taste and to keep tastewarm. and keep warm. 5. For guacamole, 5. For guacamole, coarsely crush coarsely avocadoes crush avocadoes in a bowl, add in a bowl, tomato, add onion, tomato, coriander onion, and coriander and chilli. stir to chilli. combine. stir to add combine. lime juice add and lime juice and season to taste, seasonthen to taste, set aside. then set aside. 6. warm tortillas 6. warm in tortillas a large frying in a large pan,frying then pan, then spread with spread chipotle withtomato chipotle sauce. tomato topsauce. with top with pulled pork, pulled guacamole, pork, guacamole, pickled onion pickled and onion and coriander leaves. coriander serve leaves. withserve slicedwith avocado sliced avocado and limes. and limes.

NifTy TiPs

NifTy ■ To save■time, To save pre-time, preTiPs prepare the prepare pork and the pork and beef brisket beeffor brisket the for the tacos andtacos sliders, andthis sliders, this will give you will much give you much more time more on the time day. on the day. ■ Properly ■ Properly rest the rest the

steak before steak slicing before slicing and placing andon placing the on the eggplanteggplant miso puree miso puree — this will —prevent this willany prevent any bleeding bleeding onto youronto your tataki dish. tataki dish. ■ Provide■plenty Provide of plenty of

cutleries to cutleries allow to allow guests toguests pick and to pick and choose easily choose from easily the from the large platters. largeNapkins, platters. Napkins, small forks small andforks smalland small plates all help plates making all help making grazing easy. grazing easy.

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indulgence chinese-style

If last edition’s feature on Hong Kong left you craving a Chinese feast, try your hand at these authentic dishes. And forget Tsing Tao, we have gathered some inspiring wine ideas to match each one.

RecIPeS KATRINA MEyNINK • WINe mATcHeS DAvID WOOD {MR WONg, SyDNEy} • PHOTOGRAPHY CATHERINE• SUTHERLAND STYLING SONIA PATERSON PHOTOGRAPHY CATHERINE SUTHERLAND FOOD STYLINGFOOD SONIA PATERSON


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Wine-matching tip

think about the dish’s texture and try to match it to the wine. as a general rule, never go for big reds or chardonnay. they’re not the greatest matches for chinese. DAvID WOOD {MR WONg, SyDNEy}

Fresh noodles

WITH SlOW-POACHED DUCK bROTH AND HERbS

WINE Match

“A nice savoury rosé would be great here as it works so well with the duck, while a little residual sugar will cut through any fat that may be in the dish.” TRY / Domaine de la Tour du Bon (France) or Vinea Marson (Heathcote).


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chinese roast duck

WITH gINgER AND SHIITAKE RICE

WINE Match

“You could go for the traditional pinot noir match or perhaps gamay. This is a modern Beaujolais and a bit left of centre for this dish.” TRY / Sorrenberg (Beechworth), Jean Foillard (France) or Bass Phillip (South Gippsland).


crispy prawn buns

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with sichuan tea salt Serves eight as part of a banquet

Ingredients

Method

Prawn mix Vegetable oil for deep-frying 15 medium prawns, peeled, cleaned, tails intact Seasoned plain flour for dusting 200g Japanese breadcrumbs 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 spring onions, cut on the diagonal B/c cup coriander leaves

yeast, sugar and water in the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook connected. Add the flours and a few generous pinches of salt, and mix on the lowest speed possible, just above a stir, for eight to 10 minutes or until well incorporated and the dough is smooth.

Green chilli aioli 1 cup quality aioli 1 tbsp hoisin sauce 2 tbsp each mint, coriander, finely chopped 1 large green chilli, seeds removed, finely chopped Buns* 30g liquid pork fat or lard, plus extra for brushing 5g dried yeast 35g caster sugar 1 cup warm, tepid water 95g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 300g bread flour Salt Tea salt 2 tsp sea salt flakes B/c tsp roasted and finely ground sichuan peppercorns 1 tsp Lapsang Souchong tea leaves, finely ground *note / This recipe is an adaptation of David Chang’s Momufuku pork buns. For a quick alternative, use store-bought steamed buns, available from Asian grocers.

1 / For the buns, combine the pork fat,

2 / Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until doubled in size (about two hours).

3 / Knock back the dough, divide into 12 to 15 balls and transfer to a baking tray lined with baking paper. Cover with plastic wrap and set to rest for 45 minutes to an hour.

4 / Working with one piece of dough at a time, roll it flat into ovals, brush half with remaining melted fat and fold in half, pressing lightly to close. Set aside to rest for 45 minutes.

5 / Steam buns in batches in a large steamer over high heat until puffed and cooked through – about 10 minutes.

6 / For the aioli, combine all ingredients in a small bowl, stirring to combine. Set aside until serving.

7 / For the tea salt, combine all ingredients in a bowl and set aside until serving.

8 / For the prawns, preheat the oil in a deep-fryer or deep saucepan to 180°C. Halve prawns lengthways, keeping intact at tail end. Dust in seasoned flour, dip in egg, then Japanese breadcrumbs, shaking off excess in between.

9 / Deep-fry in batches, turning occasionally until golden and cooked through (two to three minutes). Drain on absorbent paper, season to taste.

10 / Split buns, stuff with prawns, coriander, spring onion and a dollop of chilli aioli. Sprinkle the tea salt over and serve immediately.

WINE Match

“A dry Mosel riesling with a little spice and texture would be a great pairing for this dish.” TRY / Van Volxem (Germany) or Best’s Great Western (Grampians).


Poached chicken

with soy, ginger dressing and shanghai chilli dipping sauce

0

Serves eight

Ingredients chicken 5 litres cold water 3 cups shaoxing wine 8 spring onions, trimmed, cut in half 3 coriander roots, cleaned, crushed and roughly chopped 12 garlic cloves, crushed 1B/c cups ginger slices B/e cup sea salt 1 x 1.6kg chicken Soy and ginger dressing B/e cup light soy sauce 2 tbsp reserved stock B/c cup spring onions, finely sliced 2 tbsp ginger, finely sliced B/e cup coriander leaves, roughly chopped 2 tbsp peanut oil Shanghai chilli dipping sauce B/e cup white vinegar 1 tbsp white sugar B/c tsp salt 2 large red chillies, finely chopped 1 tsp coriander roots, finely chopped 1 tbsp garlic, finely chopped

Method

1 / For the poaching stock, add everything but the chicken to a large stockpot and bring to the boil over a medium heat for 40 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse. Turn down the heat and allow to simmer.

2 / Add the chicken, breast-side down and cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat, cover with a tight-fitting lid and set aside for two-and-a-half hours to allow chicken to gently poach in the liquid.

3 / For the soy and ginger dressing, add all ingredients to a small bowl and stir gently to combine. Just before serving, heat the peanut oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add oil to the dressing as you serve it to bring out the flavours of the ginger and onion.

4 / For the shanghai chilli dipping sauce, add all ingredients to a blender and blend until smooth. Pour into a serving bowl and set aside.

5 / Gently remove the chicken from the

Poached chicken

poaching liquid, being careful not to rip the skin. Cut the chicken, Chinese-style*, into eight pieces. Arrange them on a serving plate.

“A good gruner veltliner with medium weight and good texture is great with this chicken dish. A little bit of spice would be ideal too.�

6 / Top with the soy and ginger

WITH SOy, gINgER DRESSINg AND SHANgHAI CHIllI DIPPINg SAUCE

WINE Match

TRY / FX Pichler (Austria) or Lark Hill (Canberra).

dressing and serve with the Shanghai dipping sauce on the side.


Island delights Celebrate summer with this Hawaiian-inspired shared meal. Serve up the dishes in the middle of the table along with versatile wines to match and let everyone help themselves. Recipes // Katrina MeyninK dRink matches // Sarah LiMacher, KeyStone Group, Sydney photogRaphy // catherine Sutherland styLing // Sonia paterSon


PICTURED

This poke salad uses sashimi-grade Ahi or yellowfish tuna.

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PICTURED

Pork belly with pawpaw relish (left) and fish tacos.


NOTE / These dishes are designed to be shared as part of a banquet for six to eight people.

Fish tacos

with charred mackerel, chipotle cream and tomato salsa Ingredients

Fish 2 large blue mackerel fillets (or firm white fish) cut diagonally into bite-size pieces 1 tsp garlic powder 1 tsp paprika B/c tsp cayenne pepper B/c tsp ground cumin B/c tsp dried oregano Salt to taste Grapeseed oil for grilling tomato salsa 2 large tomatoes, skinned, seeded, diced 1 tsp olive oil B/c small white onion, very finely chopped 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced chipotle cream 2 egg yolks, at room temperature 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 cup grapeseed oil 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 clove garlic, crushed B/c tsp dried oregano B/c tsp ground cumin B/c tsp dried dill 1 can chipotle chilli in adobo sauce*, finely chopped plus 1 tsp sauce Salt to taste This page // Large serving plate by Christopher Plumridge (Potier) Opposite // White bowls by Stephanie James Manttan (Potier)

salad B/c head green cabbage, thinly shredded B/c cup (loosely packed) coriander leaves 1 firm avocado, peeled, seeded and chopped Juice of 1 lime, plus additional wedges to serve to serve Corn or flour tortillas, warmed

Method 1 / Combine the fish and seasonings in a large bowl with one to two teaspoons of oil and turn gently to coat. Set aside for 30 minutes in the fridge for flavours to develop.

2 / For the salsa, combine all ingredients in a bowl. Season to taste and set aside.

3 / To make the chipotle cream, put the yolks and mustard in a bowl, and mix with a balloon whisk. Slowly add the oil, in a thin trickle to begin with, whisking continuously – you want a mayonnaise consistency – until fully incorporated. Add the lemon juice, garlic, spices, chipotle and chipotle sauce, and transfer to a blender.

4 / Blitz quickly to incorporate the chipotle. Season to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve. 5 / Toss the shredded cabbage, coriander leaves and avocado in a bowl. Squeeze over

with the lime juice and set aside until ready to serve.

6 / Heat a plancha (barbecue flat plate) or a large frying pan to high. Brush the mackerel with oil (if using any additional) and chargrill for two minutes, then turn and cook for another minute.

7 / Brush tortillas with remaining oil and cook in batches, turning once, until just warm and slightly crisp (one to two minutes each side). Keep warm.

8 / To serve, top tortillas with grilled fish, cabbage mix, a dollop of chipotle cream and tomato salsa to finish. Wrap and eat immediately. *NOTE / This is available at specialist stores, or online at montereyfoods.com.au or fireworksfoods.com.au

Pork belly

with pawpaw relish Ingredients

a snug fit. Add enough stock to the base of the pan to cover the sides of the meat while the fat and skin remain exposed.

5 / Roast for 30 minutes. 6 / Reduce heat to 160 degrees and roast until crackling forms and the pork is cooked through (up to an hour). If the pork is darkening too quickly, cover with foil and continue to cook, removing the foil for the last 15 minutes of cooking.

7 / Before serving, heat the reserved marinade in a saucepan over medium-high heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thick and syrupy (about 20 minutes). 8 / Meanwhile, for the pawpaw relish, combine the sugar, fish sauce and a quarter of a cup of water in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Stir occasionally until the sugar dissolves and then simmer until syrupy (one to two minutes).

pork 9 / Remove from heat and cool to room 2kg piece boneless pork belly, skin on temperature. Add remaining B/c cup hoi sin sauce relish ingredients, transfer to B/c cup soy sauce a non-reactive bowl and stir 1 tbsp lime juice to combine. Set aside until 1 tbsp mirin ready to serve. 1 tbsp sesame oil ~ TIP ~ 10 / To serve, remove the 50g brown sugar For best results, pork from the pan and rest. 4 cloves garlic, finely begin the pork belly Thickly slice pork, spoon chopped recipe one day over reduced marinade and 6cm piece ginger, thinly ahead scatter with pawpaw relish. sliced Serve immediately. Pinch chilli flakes Chicken stock pawpaw relish B/e cup caster sugar 2 tsp fish sauce 300g pawpaw, diced B/c cup (loosely packed) coriander 1 tbsp coconut vinegar 1 tbsp lime juice 1 long red chilli, deseeded, finely chopped 3 French shallots, thinly sliced

Method 1 / Score the pork skin and fat at onecentimetre intervals with a very sharp knife. Place skin-side up on a rack in the sink and pour boiling water over skin until slits begin to open. Pat dry with absorbent paper and set aside.

2 / In a large bowl, whisk together the marinade ingredients, except for the stock.

3 / Add the pork belly, massaging the marinade into the meat and skin. Cover with plastic wrap and let it marinate for at least one hour at room temperature, or refrigerate overnight, turning occasionally to coat.

4 / Preheat oven to 220 degrees. Remove pork from the bowl, reserving the marinade, and place in a small roasting pan – you want

Poke salad Ingredients 500g Ahi (yellowfin) sashimi-grade tuna, cut into bite-size cubes B/c red onion, peeled, finely chopped 1 avocado, diced 500g cherry tomatoes, quartered 1 tsp sesame oil (or more to taste) 3 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp wasabi paste 1 tbsp furikake seasoning* Black sesame seeds, lightly toasted Spring onion, finely sliced

Method 1 / Place tuna pieces in a large bowl with the onion, avocado and cherry tomatoes, and gently toss to combine.

2 / Add the sesame oil to taste, then the soy sauce and wasabi paste, turning the mix to coat it through. Just before serving, stir through the furikake seasoning, adding more (or less) to taste.

3 / Place into serving bowls and top with sesame seeds and sliced spring onion.

*NOTE / Furikake seasoning is a Japanese product available in many Asian grocers.


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hawaiian-inspired

PICTURED

Individual hula pies; (opposite) acai berry sorbet.


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hawaiian-inpsired Acai berry sorbet

~ TIP ~

with vanilla berries and hibiscus shortbread Ingredients 200g frozen unsweetened Acai puree* 1 tbsp liquid glucose 120g caster sugar B/c cup water Juice of B/c lemon 1 cup full fat Greek yoghurt hibiscus shortbread 150g butter, softened 35g caster sugar (plus extra for dusting) 2 egg yolks 1 cup plain flour 1 tbsp hibiscus tea or dried hibiscus, ground in a spice grinder until fine 150g almond meal to serve 125g blueberries 125g raspberries 1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped or 1 tsp good quality vanilla bean extract

Method 1 / In a saucepan, add the acai puree, glucose (use a heated spoon as it's very sticky), sugar, water and lemon juice and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly until the sugars have dissolved.

2 / Remove from heat and allow to cool before stirring the yoghurt through. Place in the fridge to cool completely.

3 / Once cooled, strain the mixture into an ice cream maker to remove any sediment, then process the sorbet according to manufacturer’s instructions (or see our note if you don't own one). Transfer sorbet to a freezer container. Cover and freeze until firm (about four hours).

4 / For the shortbread, preheat oven to 180 degrees. Beat butter and sugar in an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add yolks, one at a time, and beat until combined. 5 / Sift in flour and hibiscus tea, add the almond meal and mix with your hands until it comes together.

6 / Roll heaped tablespoons of dough into balls about 3cm in diameter, then shape into crescents. Place on oven trays lined with baking paper and bake, swapping trays halfway through cooking time, until golden (15 to 20 minutes).

7 / While warm, dust heavily with caster sugar and set aside to cool. Shortbread will keep in an airtight container for a week. 8 / Just before serving, gently toss the berries with the vanilla bean. Scoop sorbet into serving bowls, spoon over with the vanilla berries and serve with shortbread.

*NOTE / Acai puree is available from health food stores.

Individual hula pies This recipe needs time, so you can cheat by buying macadamia nut ice cream and a chocolate pastry or tart shell ready to go. Ingredients chocolate pastry 180g plain flour 125g unsalted butter 60g icing sugar, sieved 25g cocoa powder 1 egg White chocolate, caramel and macadamia ice cream 2 cups milk 3 tsp liquid glucose 6 egg yolks 100g caster sugar 250g quality white chocolate, coarsely chopped 100ml vegetable oil 2 cups pouring cream 60ml espresso D/e cup macadamias, toasted and roughly chopped B/c cup caramel con leche* chocolate fudge sauce 65g dark chocolate (58% cocoa solids), coarsely chopped 10g unsalted butter 1/3 cup caster sugar 1 B/c tbsp liquid glucose 2 tsp cocoa powder to serve Toasted macadamia nuts, roughly chopped Shaved coconut chips

Method 1 / For the pastry, process flour, butter, sugar and cocoa in a food processor to combine.

2 / Add egg and mix until pastry just comes together. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for two hours to rest.

3/ Roll out pastry on floured surface to 4-5mm thick. If making individual tarts, divide dough into eight, and roll each into 13cm-diameter rounds. Refrigerate until firm (about 10-15 minutes) before trimming the edges. Preheat oven to 180 degrees.

3 / Line the tart tins and blind bake until the pastry is almost cooked (eight to 10 minutes). Remove weights and paper, and bake until pastry feels firm to touch (another eight to 10 minutes). Remove from oven and cool on wire rack, then remove from tin and set aside.

If you don't have an ice cream maker, Place your ice cream mix in a large, shallow plastic or metal container. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, then freeze for 1 1/2-2 hours until frozen at the edges. Remove ice cream from the freezer, transfer to a bowl if necessary, then beat using electric hand-beaters until smooth. Return to the freezer, then repeat this step 2 or 3 more times – this beating process will prevent ice crystals from forming and ensure you end up with a smooth, rich ice cream.

4 / For the ice cream, bring milk and liquid glucose to just near the boil in a saucepan over medium heat. in a bowl, whisk yolks and sugar until thick and pale (two to three minutes). While whisking, add the milk mixture in a slow steady stream, then return the saucepan to the heat and stir continuously until the mixture thickly coats the back of a spoon (about six to eight minutes). Strain into a clean bowl. 5 / Melt the chocolate in a bowl placed over a saucepan of barely simmering water and stir occasionally until smooth. Add the oil in a thin steady stream, stirring to combine, then add this to the ice cream mixture with the cream. Stir thoroughly to combine and refrigerate until cold.

6 / Churn in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions (or see our note if you don't own one). Once churned, stir through macadamias, espresso and caramel con leche and freeze until required (makes one litre).

7 / Remove the ice cream from the freezer and allow to soften slightly. Gently scoop the ice cream into the individual chocolate tart shells, smoothing it into a rough dome as high as you’d like. Use a warm knife to smooth over the top. Place tarts in the freezer until ready to serve. 8 / For the fudge sauce, melt chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, stirring occasionally until smooth and combined (two to three minutes). 9 / Combine remaining ingredients and 80mls of water in a saucepan and bring to the boil, then add chocolate mixture. Return to the boil and cook over high heat without stirring, shaking pan to dissolve lumps until well emulsified (three to five minutes). Set aside and keep warm.

10 / Remove the hula pies from the freezer and place on serving plates. Pour over the warm chocolate fudge and top with shaved coconut chips and additional macadamia nuts. *NOTE / Caramel con leche can be found in specialist providores and delis.


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spice it up

Who says you can’t pair wine with spice? Warm up this winter with an easy Indian feast and discover these brilliant wine matches. RECIPES KATRINA MEYNINK • DRINK MATCHES HARsHAl sHAH PHOTOGRAPHY CATHERINE sUTHERLAND • FOOD STYLING sONIA PATERsON


cumin and pistachio kulfi

This makes eight to 10, depending on the size of moulds. Find them in Indian grocery stores, otherwise you can use dariole moulds or other glassware. You will need to start this recipe one day ahead of time.

Ingredients B/c cup pistachios, finely ground

(fine to replace with

B/e cup pistachio paste)

2 tsp ground cumin 150ml condensed milk 100ml milk 100ml thickened cream

Method

1 / Blend all ingredients in a blender until it’s a coarse puree. Spoon the mixture into the moulds and freeze overnight.

2 / Serve in the mould or glass. Alternatively, remove the moulds from the freezer and briefly run their ends under hot water. To loosen, turn them out onto plates and serve. Chopped mango and pomegranate seeds work well with this dessert if desired.

Wine Match

“Ideally, a delicate, aromatic tea, like the Kashmiri kawa chai,

would be perfect to round things off with this dessert. But a delicate moscato from Australia or a Moscato d’Asti from Piedmont, Italy, would also suit. This style of moscato often has hints of mint and fennel, and even coriander seeds, so it will complement the sweetness and nuttiness of this dessert. It is appropriately sweet not to be overwhelmed by the dish and the fizz will leave the palate refreshed after every bite.”

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wine & spice

W

hen it comes to the dining experience, wine consultant Harshal Shah says choosing drinks shouldn’t be taken too seriously. “I really believe people should drink what they like drinking. I don’t think every dining experience has to be a lecture,” he says. It’s a refreshing concept from someone who has worked as a sommelier for more than 10 years and is now studying to become a Master of Wine. But Delhi-based Harshal does insist on one rule when pairing wine with spice. “Tannin, spice and chilli don’t work together – it’s a difficult match as it tends to accentuate the bitterness in the tannins,” he says. “What you want to look for are soft flavours, tannins and mouthfeel and a bit of sweetness. They work really well together.” It means the likes of big, bold reds should make way for refreshingly lighter styles. So, what are the wines to seek out when curry is on the menu? “Lambrusco is great, as are off-dry white wines because they have that little bit of sweetness to keep the mouth excited,” Harshal says. “I particularly like off-dry riesling and green characters in sauvignon blanc. Acidity will keep you feeling fresh, while wines from the Cotes du Rhone and Beaujolais are often more fruity than savoury, which is also ideal. It’s all about finding the happy balance of the fruit flavours of the wine and the spice of the dish,” Harshal says. Sydney-raised Harshal has worked in India’s capital for the past five years, building wine lists for high-end hotels and consulting to a range of clients. While wine has never been a big part of Indian culture, he says it is starting to change. “They don’t approach food with drinks being a big part of it. That’s a very modern way,” he says. “But the next generation – the 25- to 30-year-olds who have travelled a bit and seen other cultures – are bringing this back to India, so I think the cuisine and drinks scene will develop.” These changes are coinciding with India’s own burgeoning wine industry. Now with around 60 wineries, India's wine production levels and quality are increasing. “It’s picking up and the wines are getting more consistent, but they do still have a long way to go,” Harshal says. In the meantime, there are plenty of wines from elsewhere to suit the cuisine, not to mention beer. “I like aromatic wheat beers as they can be rather fruity. And lagers are wonderful because they are lighter, generally less complex, and very refreshing, which prepares the palate for another bite.” All recipes serve six to eight people as part of a banquet.

cheat’s coconut dosai pancakes with grilled fish, mango and green chilli chutney Ingredients

Mango relish B/c cup freshly grated coconut 1 cup coriander and mint leaves, finely chopped 1 green chilli, deseeded, finely chopped 1 tsp finely grated ginger Juice and rind of 1 lime 1 mango, chopped into cubes (tinned mango is fine out of season) Dosai batter 75g plain flour 125g chickpea flour 2 tbsp desiccated coconut, roasted 1 tsp dried chilli 1 tsp bicarbonate soda 1 tsp fenugreek seeds 1 tsp mustard seeds Pinch of salt 400ml water Fish 1 tbsp ghee 600g blue-eye fillets, chopped into large cubes 1 tbsp chickpea flour for dusting To serve 50g cashews, roasted (optional) Lime cheeks

Method

1 / For the mango relish, combine all ingredients in a bowl, season to taste and refrigerate until required.

2 / For the dosai batter, add the flours to a bowl with the coconut, chilli, bicarbonate soda, fenugreek and mustard seeds, and a good pinch of salt. Then gradually whisk in enough water, about 400ml, to make a loose batter.

3 / Add a splash of oil to a pan over a medium-high heat and carefully wipe it around with kitchen paper. Add a spoonful of batter to the pan and immediately twist the pan so the batter coats the base and slips up the edges. Cook for one minute and flip to cook the other side for 30 seconds. Cover to keep warm and repeat with remaining batter.

4 / For the fish, heat a chargrill pan over high heat. Add the ghee and heat to bubbling. Grill the fish, turning once until just cooked (eight to 10 minutes) and crisp.

5 / Add the fish cubes to the mango salsa

Wine

mix and toss gently to combine. Serve warm with the dosai pancakes, cashews if you are using them, and wedges of lime.

Match

“Good Hunter Valley semillon with a few years of age

will balance any nutty notes in the dosai and sweetness from the mango, yet still have the appropriate palate weight to work with the fish. Albariño from Rias Baixas in Glacia, Spain, would also be magical. Some albariño styles have intriguing mango and peach notes and it is also subtly mineral-driven in flavour to complement the fish.”

Opposite page // White wine tumbler from Schott zwiesel

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Method

1 / For the paneer, pour the milk into a heavy based saucepan, place over medium-high heat and slowly bring to the boil, being careful not to let the milk burn.

2 / Combine the lemon juice and water in a jug. Gradually pour small amounts of this mixture into the milk, stirring gently. Continue adding the lemon mixture until the milk curdles and the solids separate from the whey. Once curdled, remove from heat and set aside.

3 / Line a strainer with muslin cloth and place over a bowl. Gently pour the paneer mix onto the lined strainer. Once the liquid has drained, test the consistency. Because the cheese is used as a stuffing, it needs to be firm but still malleable.

4 / Gently mix the paneer and chopped mint together in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

Deep-fried zucchini flowers

sTUffED wITH PANEER AND MINT

Zuchinni flowers vary in size so you may have some mixture left over. This will keep covered in the fridge for three days.

Ingredients

Paneer* 2 cups milk B/e cup lemon juice B/c cup water B/c cup mint, finely chopped plus extra to serve Zucchini flowers 12-15 zucchini flowers, stamens removed (optional) 1 cup chickpea flour, plus extra for dusting 1 cup cold soda water 1 egg Vegetable oil for deep frying

Wine Match

5 / Gently open each flower and place one to two heaped teaspoons of paneer mixture inside each one, taking care not to tear the petals. Pinch gently to close, then twist to seal in the filling. Place on a tray and refrigerate until required.

6 / Make the batter by combining the chickpea flour, soda water and egg in a bowl, whisking to combine.

7 / Fill a deep-fryer or high-sided frying pan with vegetable oil and place over high heat. Bring the oil to 190 degrees. 8 / Dust stuffed flowers with remaining chickpea flour, then dip in batter. Deepfry in batches, turning occasionally, until golden (about three to five minutes; be careful – the hot oil may spit).

9 / Drain on absorbent paper, season to taste and serve hot, scattered with extra mint leaves. *If pressed for time, you can buy paneer at specialist grocers or Indian food stores.

“A light, aromatic white variety would be perfect for

this dish. Whichever wine is selected, it must not overwhelm it. Neutral, delicate Italian varieties like arneis or favorita, which is related to vermentino, from Piedmont could be ideal. For Australian arneis, look to the King Valley’s Pizzini and Dal Zotto, and the Mornington Peninsula’s Crittendon, which all make attractive, floral styles.”


Wine Match

“The robust roasted, nutty and spicy flavours in this chicken curry call for an equally rich wine. For a slightly left-of-centre match, try good quality Alsatian gewürztraminer. The wine itself is medium- to full-bodied and the hint of sweetness that is usual in this style will marry deliciously with the chicken.”


Wine Match

“The flavours of this lamb dish are strong, so a rich,

fruit-driven cabernet sauvignon or cabernet-driven blend would be lovely. Seek out options from South Australia’s Coonawarra or for something different, try Australian tempranillo, which could also provide an intriguing pairing, particularly against the earthy notes in the dish.”


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wine & spice

roasted coconut chicken curry Ingredients 1 cup desiccated coconut 400ml coconut cream 1 tbsp black peppercorns 2 tsp ajowan seeds 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 tbsp ghee 4 eschallots, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 800g chicken thigh fillets, quartered 2 tsp turmeric 1 B/c tbsp curry powder 2 curry leaves, extra for garnish 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp dried chilli flakes (with seeds) 270ml coconut milk 2 tbsp brown sugar Juice and zest of 1 lime

Method

1 / Preheat the oven to 175 degrees. 2 / Place the coconut in a large deep-sided frying pan and place over a medium heat. Toast the coconut to a deep nutty brown colour. Remove from the heat, reserving two tablespoons for serving and add to a food processor with four tablespoons of coconut cream.

3 / Return the pan to the heat and add the peppercorns, ajowan seeds and cumin seeds. Cook until roasted and fragrant. Add these spices to the coconut mix in the food processor and blitz until a loose paste forms. You may need to increase the amount of coconut cream added to achieve a loose consistency.

JUN / JUL 2012

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4 / Add the ghee to the frying pan and

Masala Lamb Shoulder Ingredients

Garam Masala 2 tbsp cardamom seeds 2 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp brown mustard seeds 2 tbsp black peppercorns 10 cloves 1 dried small red chilli, softened in warm water, seeded and chopped 1 cinnamon stick, about 6cm long, broken in half 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Lamb 4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped 1.5 kg lamb shoulder (bone in) 1 brown onion, peeled and chopped 1 tsp cumin seeds, crushed 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed 2 cups yoghurt 4 Roma tomatoes, quartered 1 tbsp tomato paste 2 tsp fresh ginger, grated Coriander leaves, to garnish

Method

1 / Preheat oven to 160 degrees. 2 / Place all garam masala ingredients into a bowl and combine well. Place a frying pan over a medium heat and toast the mixed spices until fragrant. Remove from heat and blitz in a food processor or crush in a mortar and pestle. Rub the lamb shoulder with this mix, reserving some for the sauce.

3 / Scatter the garlic cloves over the lamb, along with with the chopped onion, cumin and coriander seeds. Then place the meat in the oven and roast for four hours or until the meat is very tender.

return to the heat. Add the eschallots and garlic, and sweat until translucent. Add the chicken pieces and cook until lightly browned but not cooked through. Then add the turmeric, curry powder, curry leaves, chilli powder and dried chilli flakes, and cook for a further minute.

4 / Take the meat out of the oven and

5 / Add to the pan the coconut paste

5 / Combine the yoghurt, tomatoes,

mix, along with the remaining coconut cream and coconut milk. Stir to combine, then add the sugar, lime juice and zest. Stir to combine.

tomato paste and ginger together and add this to the meat in the pan, along with any of the remaining garam masala spice mix.

6 / Cover and place in the oven and cook for 40 to 50 minutes or until the sauce has reduced and thickened.

7 / Serve warm with rice.

strain off some of the fat before gently shredding the meat off the bone and back into the roasting pan.

6 / Return the pan to the oven and cook for a further hour until the tomatoes have softened and the yoghurt mix has reduced.

7 / Serve warm with freshly chopped coriander leaves to garnish.

crisp mustard seed & turmeric potatoes Ingredients 800g potatoes 2 tbsp ghee 1 heaped tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp mustard seeds B/e cup coriander leaves, chopped B/e cup mint leaves, chopped

Method

1 / Preheat oven to 175 degrees. 2 / Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook potatoes for 10 minutes or until just tender. Drain and cut into quarters.

3 / Add potatoes, ghee, turmeric and mustard seeds to a roasting pan and toss to combine. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes or until potatoes are crisp and golden.

4 / Serve with the fresh chopped herbs sprinkled on top.


starters

pARTY

The perfecT parTy food should be easy To make and prepare ahead, deliciously more-ish and also deceivingly fancy. These crowdpleasing TreaTs go one beTTer by also maTching wiTh almosT any drink. PHOTOGRAPHY // mark roper STYLInG // sonia paTerson RecIPeS // kaTrina meynink

VenUe // The prince alfred hoTel {richmond, vic}


party food

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party food

Bourbon-glazed pork ribs Ingredients 1.5kg American-style pork spare ribs Marinade 600g tomato passata B/c cup bourbon 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp sweet smoked paprika 1 tbsp ground coriander B/c tsp cayenne pepper Salt and pepper to season 1 cup brown sugar, loosely packed B/c cup of each of barbecue sauce, apple cider vinegar, Worcestershire and soy sauce chipotle mayo 1 cup quality mayonnaise 2 tbsp finely chopped chives 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tsp fresh lime juice 1 tsp chipotle chile powder or chipotle hot sauce* Salt and pepper to season

Method

1 / Combine all marinade ingredients in a large bowl and whisk to combine thoroughly. Add the ribs, cover and refrigerate overnight.

2 / When ready to cook, preheat oven to 130 degrees.

3 / Transfer ribs and marinade to a large baking dish (you may need two), cover and cook for 4.5 hours or until tender. Baste occasionally during the cooking process.

4 / Remove the ribs from the marinade and set aside. Transfer the marinade to a saucepan and cook over a medium heat until reduced by two-thirds and a glaze consistency is achieved. Set aside.

5 / Whisk the mayonnaise with chives, garlic, lime juice and chipotle chile powder or chipotle hot sauce to taste. Season and chill until ready to serve.

6 / Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan over medium-high heat and grill the ribs, turning and basting with the reserved marinade, until charred and sticky. Slice the ribs and serve hot with the chipotle mayonnaise. *If you can't find chipotle chile powder, substitute for half a dried chipotle and grind it to a powder.

~ NOTE ~ You can cook these ahead and reheat on the barbecue grill just before serving.


Harissa meatballs wiTh minTed YoghuRT Ingredients Meatballs 500g beef mince 500g veal mince 1 white onion, peeled, diced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tbsp harissa paste 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp ground caraway B/c tsp ground fennel 2 egg yolks 1B/c cups fresh ricotta 1-2 cup sourdough crumbs B/c cup loosely packed coriander leaves, finely chopped Salt and pepper to season Minted yoghurt 200g Greek yoghurt Juice of B/c-1 lemon 1 cup mint leaves, finely chopped

Method

1 / Combine all meatball ingredients in a large bowl and, using your hands, mix vigorously to combine. Season generously.

2 / Roll the meat mixture into walnutsized balls and place on a baking tray. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm.

3 / Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Heat a large non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Spray with oil. Cook the meatballs in batches, turning, for five minutes or until golden. Transfer to a large baking tray. Repeat with the remaining meatballs.

4 / Bake in the oven for eight minutes or until cooked through. Combine the yoghurt, lemon and mint together and serve alongside.

~ Tip ~ Prepare the meatball mix in advance and cook on the day.


~ TArTlET Tip ~ You can prepare the bacon jam up to a week in advance.

Lamb cutlets wiTh hAzelnuT gRemolATA Serves 8-12

Ingredients

Lamb 2 x lamb racks of 8 cutlets Zest of 1 lemon 3 tbsp olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed Salt and pepper to season Gremolata B/c cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley B/d cup olive oil B/e cup hazelnuts, toasted, husked, finely chopped 2 tsp lemon zest 2 garlic cloves, crushed

Method

1 / Preheat oven to 220 degrees. 2/ Combine lamb, olive oil, garlic and lemon rind in a large bowl and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.

3 / Heat a chargrill pan over high heat, add lamb and turn occasionally until seared (two to three minutes), then transfer to the oven and cook to your liking (five to seven minutes for medium-rare).

4 / Cover with foil and rest for five minutes while you prepare the gremolata.

5 / Add all gremolata ingredients to a food processor and pulse briefly. If it seems dry, add an additional tablespoon of olive oil and blitz briefly.

6 / Slice the lamb into individual cutlets, sprinkle the gremolata over or serve alongside, and serve the lamb warm.


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v Simply leave out the bacon and serve as a spicy relish.

Chorizo and smoked cheddar croquettes Makes 24

You will need to begin this recipe one day ahead. Ingredients

Goat’s curd tartlets wiTh boozY bAcon jAm Ingredients

Boozy bacon jam 400g bacon, diced 3 eschallots, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tbsp brown sugar 2 tsp smoked sweet paprika 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp tarragon leaves, very finely chopped B/c tsp cinnamon 2 tbsp instant coffee granules, dissolved in 2 tbsp boiling water 1 cup tomato passata 3 tbsp dark molasses 3 tbsp Dijon mustard B/c cup bourbon 3 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp soy sauce Salt and pepper to season Tarts 200g goat’s curd B/c cup thickened cream 2 eggs + 1 egg yolk, lightly whisked Salt and pepper to season 24 small prepared savoury pastry tartlet shells

Method

1 / Fry the bacon in a deep-sided fry pan

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DEC 2012 / JAN 2013

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Replace the chorizo with about 80 grams of dried porcini mushrooms, softened in water and finely chopped, and the zest of one lemon.

over medium heat for five to 10 minutes, or until coloured. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2 / Add the eschallots and garlic to the pan and sweat until translucent. Add the sugar and spices and cook for an additional two minutes or until fragrant.

3 / Add the remaining ingredients and return the bacon to the pan. Reduce the heat to low and cook for one to 1.5 hours or until thickened and reduced by half.

4 / Allow to cool, then add to a food processor and pulse briefly or until desired jam consistency is achieved.

5 / Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. 6 / Briefly process curd and cream in a

200g chorizo sausage, casing removed 200g butter 2 brown onions, finely chopped 330g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 2 heaped tsp cornflour 3 cups milk 200g smoked cheddar, grated 3 tsp salt 4 eggs, lightly beaten panko crumbs to coat Sunflower oil for deep-frying

Method

1 / Put the chorizo in a large heavy based saucepan and cook for three to five minutes, or until browned and cooked through. Remove using a slotted spoon and set aside.

2 / Return the saucepan to the heat and melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook for five to eight minutes, or until softened and translucent.

3 / Add half the flour and all of the cornflour to the pan and cook, stirring continuously for three minutes.

4 / Add the milk, half a cup at a time, stirring continuously as the mixture will thicken quickly. Before the last addition of milk, add the chorizo, smoked cheddar and salt.

5 / Continue cooking, stirring continuously for 10 to 15 minutes to cook out the flour. Pour the mixture into a shallow tray, cover with baking paper and allow to cool in the fridge overnight.

6 / To make the croquettes, prepare three dipping bowls. The first with the remaining dusting flour, the second with the beaten egg mix and the third with the Panko crumbs.

7 / Take two heaped teaspoons of the mixture at a time and form into oval shapes (about 6cm x 3cm). Roll the croquettes in the flour, dip in the egg, allowing the excess to drain off, then roll in the Panko crumbs, coating well. Place on a tray, cover and refrigerate for at least an hour or until firm.

food processor until combined. Add the whisked eggs and season generously with salt and pepper. Divide this mixture among the tartlet cases and bake for 30 minutes or until golden.

8 / Fill a deep fryer or heavy based frying

7 / Serve topped with a dollop of boozy bacon jam and serve warm or at room temperature.

9 / Sprinkle with salt and serve

pan one-third full of sunflower oil and heat to 180 degrees. Deep-fry the croquettes in batches for three to four minutes or until golden. Drain on paper towel. immediately with a spiced tomato or capsicum relish.


party food

Beer Nuts Makes four cups

Ingredients 800g raw unsalted cashews 12 fresh kaffir lime lives, vein removed, finely sliced Zest and juice of 2 limes (about 2 tbsp juice) 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp kejap manis sweet soy 2 large red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced 2 tbsp palm sugar Course sea salt

Method

1 / Preheat the oven to

Kimchi scallops

Kimchi sauce B/e cup strained juice from a jar of kimchi 1 tbsp tomato paste B/c cup tomato passata 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp chilli sauce 1 clove garlic, crushed Zest of B/c lime plus 1 tbsp juice pinch salt 3cm piece of ginger, freshly grated

2 / Spread the nuts over a

You can make the beer nuts ahead of time and store in an airtight container.

Ingredients

Scallops 150g butter 4 lemongrass stalks, outer piece removed, roughly chopped 6 cloves garlic, smashed 1 knob ginger, crushed 24 scallops with shells 2 limes, sliced 1 lemon, sliced 1 bunch coriander, rinsed, coarsely chopped

175 degrees.

~ NOTE ~

Serves 12-18

baking tray and toast until golden and fragrant, about eight minutes. Set aside to cool.

3 / Reduce the oven heat to 120 degrees.

Method

1 / Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the lemongrass, garlic and ginger. Cook until fragrant.

2 / Meanwhile, make the kimchi sauce by

4 / Add the remaining ingredients to a bowl and whisk to combine. Let the mixture sit for about 20 minutes until the sugar dissolves and the flavours infuse. Whisk again, then add the nuts and stir to coat.

combining all of its ingredients in a food processor and pulse once or twice to combine. Check for seasoning, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate to chill.

5 / Line the tray with baking paper

3 / Spoon the butter sauce over the

6 / Bake until the nuts are dry (45 to 55

scallops and grill on the shell for about five minutes, or until plump.

4 / Serve and spoon over the kimchi cocktail sauce, with the sprinkled coriander and lemon and lime wedges on the side.

and lightly coat with non-stick spray. Pour the nuts onto the tray, spreading them in a single layer across the tray. minutes), being careful to turn the tray once or twice during cooking to ensure the nuts don’t burn.

7 / Remove the pan from the oven and set aside to cool completely. Turn the mixture into a serving bowl and serve.

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{travel}


Melbourne City

A Class

Of Its Own Savour the culinary treasures of the world in Melbourne where old dining stalwarts sit comfortably alongside quirky new establishments; colourful markets, produce stores and boutique wine shops wait to be explored; and bountiful wineries and farmgates on its outskirts promise a multi-sensorial journey

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Photography: Ben King

“What makes the Victorian food and wine scene so exciting is its diversity. At the epicentre is Melbourne, a city obsessed with food – from the most casual offering of quirky cafes to the incredible mid-range dining influenced by various cultures of the world to high-end offerings for a special night out – and that’s just the cafes and restaurants! Then there are the inspiring produce stores, boutique wine shops and farmers’ markets, and a short drive outside Melbourne lies a treasure trove of wineries, food producers and agriculture. It really feels like we have it all at our doorstep.” Shannon Bennett, chef/owner of Vue de Monde

F

ood is at the heart of Melbourne’s culture. Along the cobblestoned lanes that crisscross the city’s centre, you’ll find places that typify Melbourne’s serious but casual approach to food. Restaurants, bars and hole-in-the-wall culinary discoveries decorate alleyways, basements, upstairs attics and other unconventional spaces, meaning there’s room for more than one great eatery to be discovered.

Attica At this oft-awarded restaurant, led by head chef Ben Shewry, the setting is dark and dramatic, and the service warm and confident. The food is a creative series of taste sensations artfully served on natural textured plates and paired with a well-curated wine list. www.attica.com.au

Chin Chin A warehouse space constantly filled with diners sitting cheek to jowl enjoying street-inspired Asian fare, the emphasis here is on shared plates and flexible, come-any-time dining. The all-Australian wine list shows ardent support for local and artisan talent and makes a point of naming not just the labels but the makers too. www.chinchinrestaurant.com.au Coda Helmed by chef Adam D’Sylva, this much celebrated addition to the Melbourne laneway dining chorus offers a menu that comfortably hops between Asian shared plates and more refined French classics. The wine list is novice-friendly with plenty of halfbottle options to accommodate the variety of dishes. www.codarestaurant.com.au 3


Melbourne City

“The Victorian food scene is electrifying! I frequently travel to explore other cities but I always look forward to coming home to Melbourne. It’s excellent in so many ways and the city’s close proximity to important wine regions and food trails within Victoria gives it a real edge over many other cities in the world.” Andrew McConnell, chef and leading Melbourne restaurateur

restaurateurs with its phenomenal use of produce. Grouped into categories of Sea, Land and Earth, the food is casual and bar-like, with most dishes designed for sharing. www.huxtablerestaurant.com.au

Moon under Water Chef Josh Murphy provides a weekly-changing four-course set menu in the restaurant’s all-white surrounds. There’s no a la carte menu here, but the short set menu will impress while giving the chefs ample scope to refine their offering and exploit the fresh bounty of the seasons. The restaurant is part of Andrew McConnell’s suite of incredibly popular restaurants including Golden Fields, Cutler & Co, Cumulus Inc. and Cumulus Up. www. buildersarmshotel.com.au/moon-under-water

Photography: Ben King

Pei Modern A simple and casual venture created by Mark Best, one of Australia’s most highly regarded chefs. This place thrives on a menu that showcases seasonal ingredients. A light and fresh wine list perfectly matches the style of food and pared-back surrounds. www. peimodern.com.au Vue de Monde Some of the country’s most amazing dining and views come together to stunning effect at this former city observation deck. Vue de Monde boasts an incredible 360-degree view of the city while sophisticated interior elements like kangaroo leather-wrapped tables adorned with beautiful river stones reflect Australia’s identity. Choose between a la carte and a degustation option which comes in four, seven, eight or 10 courses. www.vuedemonde.com.au For Foodie AdVentureS Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Time

estelle bar & Kitchen A fantastic restaurant with hospitable staff, this is the place to find superbly sophisticated food. The degustation-driven menu is thoughtful and creative, with impeccable ingredient pairings. Perch at the bar, relax in the courtyard with a drink, or simply head for the table-and-booth style seating, settle in and enjoy a memorable meal. www.estellebarkitchen.com.au Huxtable Epitomising Melbourne’s dining culture with its low-key approach and lavish hospitality, Huxtable attracts the most innovative chefs and 4

your visit with the 20-year-old festival and enjoy some 200 standout events including the World’s Longest Lunch and masterclasses with the world’s most eminent chefs. It also presents plenty of opportunities for gourmands in Melbourne with other key events timed throughout the year including November’s ever-popular Taste of Melbourne. www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au; www.tasteofmelbourne.com.au

Melbourne’s Marvellous Markets Meander through Australian produce, meet suppliers, and sample their gustatory wares at Melbourne’s leading food markets. From Queen Victoria Market to the farmers’ market at Collingwood Children’s Farm, the opportunities are endless. If you prefer the expertise of a guide, consider the Foodies Dream Tour at Queen Victoria Market or the Hidden Gems Tour at Prahran Market in South Yarra.


Sensory lab A cafe masquerading as a science lab, this is a treasure trove of crafted coffee blends. All Sensory Lab coffee beans are roasted on state-ofthe-art Probat Coffee Roasters to the roast master’s special recipe. Sample different coffee-making styles, discuss coffee making equipment at length with the friendly team, or simply sit back and watch the constant flow of caffeineseekers pass through its aromatic doors. www.sensorylab.com.au

Seven Seeds Its radical cult following can be

Chasing the Bean The undeniable capital of Australia’s coffee culture, Melbourne continues to raise the bar with its outstanding range of aromatic brews found at every corner. Each cup is unique, with the city’s rich coffee history at its heart and stirred with passion

attributed to several things: beans that are superbly roasted in small batches, an excellent house blend as well as its selection of carefully sourced single origins and guest blends, often from top international roasters. In addition to the roomy cafe, there is a state-of-the-art roasting facility, a retail counter and a dedicated space for cupping and training programmes. www.sevenseeds.com.au

Discover cups of singleorigin beans and blends, or sample coffees on a dedicated tour. Two of the best: • Cafe Culture Walk by Hidden secrets Tours www.hidden secretstours.com • Coffee Cultural Trek with Maria Paoli of evolving success www. evolvingsuccess. com.au

St Ali roasters In an out-of-the-way converted warehouse in South Melbourne is St Ali, where the objective is simply “speciality coffee”. The coffee is pure, delicate and non-acidic, and the flavours ethereal and transparent. Every sip is different, with the notes changing as you get to the bottom of the cup. www.stali.com.au

not to be MiSSed Captains of industry lets you have a suit cut from the most fashionable fabrics while enjoying a well-brewed cuppa. www.captainsofindustry.com.au

t

Market lane Coffee offers something new

Pellegrini's At this Melbourne institution and the city’s first espresso bar, coffee is sacrosanct. Drink to its history and the camaraderie among the throngs of friends and strangers lined along the bar knocking back espressos. Tel: +613 9662 1885

the little Mule is another holy grail for coffee aficionados. Located in Melbourne’s bustling CBD, it doubles as a bicycle shop. www.thelittlemule.com

here is no question that the standard of both the cafes and the coffee they serve is outstanding in Melbourne. Here, chasing the bean is coffeenerd nirvana. It is a very serious and very enjoyable business where crafted speciality bean blends and a variety of coffee preparations from French press to siphon are available at every turn.

LeT THe exPerTs guIDe yOu

every time you visit, with its coffee offerings that change throughout the year according to a simple formula: what’s in season and what tastes good. www.marketlane.com.au

“Melbourne’s cafe culture is globally recognised for its quality roasting, and its first-, second- and third-wave cafe bars. No other city in the world can boast 2,500 caffe lattes per day sold in one boutique cafe alone. As the world’s fastest-growing micro roasting city, it offers some of the world’s best origins served by world-class baristas. Melbourne is about quality, creativity and service. Our rich heritage provides the opportunity to offer an eclectic menu, with decadent flavours that tell a story.” Maria Paoli, founder and managing director of Evolving Success and ambassador for Café Culture Melbourne 5


yArrA VAlley

Valley of

Discovery Take your taste buds on a delectable tour through the Yarra Valley where boutique wineries to big-name estates and superb country meals will leave you spoilt for choice

t

he Yarra Valley is a breathtaking expanse of hills, lakes and gently rounded mountains capped by blue gum ranges where table and trail collide to stunning effect. Beginning just beyond Melbourne’s doorstep, the region is crisscrossed by world-class food and wine trails offering the finest food and wine experiences in the southern hemisphere. Envisage slabs of artisan breads; piles of succulent smoked meats; groaning boards of locally produced cheeses, freshwater salmon, trout and caviar; and veritable oceans of excellent cool-climate wines, heartwarming reds or light and luscious ciders. A bountiful region for the

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food and wine connoisseur or those keenly interested, the Yarra Valley is an odyssey of produce stands, restaurants, wineries and a burgeoning food scene.

treASureS on tHe Vine Wine is the heart and soul of the Yarra Valley’s appeal, and the best bottlings can only be found by visiting the wineries. Home to 90 wineries ranging from small, family-owned operations to sprawling big-name estates, this is where some of Australia’s finest Pinot Noir and sparkling wine, and a huge range of other cool-climate wines and ciders are made. The great diversity of wines is thanks to the variation in altitude and terroirs


throughout the district. Warmer vineyards produce a high-quality range of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, while cooler districts are excellent for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

de bortoli Wines Helmed by the thirdgeneration members of the De Bortoli family, this winery produces wines steeped in tradition. The commitment to sustainable vineyard practices with a “hands on” approach in the vineyard and “hands off” approach in the winery reflects the family philosophy of allowing fruit and terroir to be fully expressed in every bottle. The cellar door is complete with a cheese shop and is a must visit. Leanne De Bortoli and winemaker husband Steve Webber ensure that the experience here befits the quality of wines and produce available. There is a variety of styles to try, or enjoy a gourmet tasting including De Bortoli’s most premium labels and cheeses. www.debortoliyarra.com.au

domaine Chandon The source of several impressive sparklings, the Yarra Valley is also home to the famed Domaine Chandon winery and cellar door, an outpost of Champagne and sparkling winemaker Moët & Chandon. The lush grounds are tucked down behind the old homestead with a lovely cellar door, complete with brasserie and outdoor seating. Soak up the classic vineyard vista at leisure – with a glass of Domaine Chandon’s perfectly constructed bubbles, of course. www.chandon.com.au

oakridge Wines Home of Australia’s finest Chardonnay, this award-winning winery with a postcard-perfect location and a restaurant that opens out across the rolling vineyards is a place to linger. The wines run the gamut from white through red and into sweet territory, and are complemented by staff who are as warm and friendly as they are knowledgeable. www.oakridgewines.com.au

rochford Winery One of the area’s premier winemakers, Rochford Winery attracts serious wine lovers and curious tasters alike. You can admire the view over the well-tended grounds and vineyards or join the throngs for tastings. The feel is casual and friendly, with knowledgeable pourers willing to give you extra attention. Swilled to your heart’s content? There is plenty else on offer here with an award-winning restaurant, cafe and patio, retail shop, wine club, observation tower and even an art gallery. www.rochfordwines.com.au

AuStrAliAn Wine tour CoMPAny Sniff, swirl, sip and savour your way through the vineyards of the Yarra Valley with the variety of tour options on offer. The premium tour comes with your personal wine expert guide and lets you customise your itinerary so you can include dairy farms, micro-breweries and other attractions to your tour. Adventureseekers will love the ballooning and winery tour package. www.austwinetourco.com.au

OTHer sTANDOuT WINerIes TO vIsIT

• Dominique Portet www.dominiqueportet.com • Hoddles Creek estate www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au • Punt road Winery www.puntroadwines.com.au • yering station www.yering.com • yarra yering www.yarrayering.com 7


yArrA VAlley

and traditional bottle-fermented pear cider. www.napoleonecider.com.au

FArMgAte & Food trAilS NOT TO Be MIsseD

• yarra valley Farmers' Market

(third Sunday of every month) www.yering.com/ farmer-market • Lunch at Bella vedere www.bellavedere.com.au • Lunch at giant steps www.innocentbystander.com.au • Dinner at Chateau yering www.chateauyering.com.au • Coffee fix at Harvest Cafe and a visit to the kitchen and butcher shop www.yarravalleyharvest.com.au

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yArrA VAlley Cider & Ale trAil For something of a different speed, enjoy cider made from rare cider apples that have been growing in the region since 1932. The trail encompasses seven cider and ale producers across the valley, with opportunities to taste the fruit of a long tradition of cider production. Also enjoy apple and pear, a combination of the two,

The Yarra Valley plays host to an extraordinary natural larder; an odyssey of foods and produce worthy of a pilgrimage. From handpicked cherries to ice-creams, hazelnuts and chestnuts, organically-grown fruit, berries and vegetables, and handmade cheeses, pastas and preserves, the region is famed for its delectable produce made by small and large specialist growers and producers. Nibble your way through a chocolate truffle here, relish a spoonful of lavenderblueberry jam there or take a bite of fresh linecaught salmon, and taste the soul of the region.

Cherryhill orchards Escape into the orchards and pick succulent cherries straight off the trees at this lovely family-run orchard. Established in


1940, this is where you can discover and enjoy three generations of cherry harvesting wisdom. The Riseborough family grows over 30 varieties of cherries at three different locations, covering the entire cherry season which runs from midto late-November through to the end-January. www.cherryhill.com.au

rayner’s Stonefruit orchard Take your pick of more than 300 varieties of fruit at this orchard, and along the way, learn how to tell if a fruit is fully ripened and how to pull it from the tree the right way. If getting behind the wheel of a tractor is more your thing, take the guided orchard tractor fruit tasting tour with farmer Len Rayner. After that, head to the cafe for a leisurely lunch. www.raynerstonefruit.com.au Warratina lavender Farm Enjoy the floral, slightly earthy fragrance and the visual beauty of undulating beds of lavender at Warratina Lavender Farm. Over 10,000 lavender plants are grown for every persuasion, from culinary delights such as the famous lavender mustard to household and beauty products. Watch how the

lavender is harvested by hand, then lovingly dried and sifted before being turned into an amazing range of products. www.warratinalavender.com.au

yarra Valley Chocolaterie and ice Creamery Free chocolate tastings, large viewing windows to watch European chocolatiers at work, and a showcase of over 150 varieties of hand-crafted chocolates and ice-creams will bring out the Willy Wonka in everyone. Take your pick of truffles, pralines, exquisite chocolate-coated creations inspired by the Yarra Valley surrounds, lavish chocolate bars, nut clusters and bush tucker chocolates in packaging designed by local indigenous residents. The possibilities are endless. www.yvci.com.au

yarra Valley dairy Indulge in fine Australian cheeses at this well-established dairy farm. Thanks to good grass and artisanal techniques, you can discover the terroir and taste of the Yarra Valley with cheeses made from the milk of goats and cows grazing on the pastures outside the dairy door window. The marinated feta is said to be world-class. www.yvd.com.au 9


dAyleSFord

All That

glitters

When in the former goldmining town of Daylesford, be prepared to uncover some real treasures – from unpolluted air to pure mineral spring water, acclaimed cuisine and bountiful harvests, all topped with genuine Aussie charm 12


Daylesford and the Macedon Ranges

“There’s a burgeoning local food scene around the ‘spa town’ of Daylesford. At the weekend farmers’ market, the local produce is second to none and much of it is organic or biodynamic. There’s also wonderful work being done with rare breed farming. Lake House has five organic farms. The most amazing variety of produce comes through our door every day.’’ Alla Wolf-Tasker, executive chef/co-proprietor of Lake House

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he array of sensory indulgences offered in the former goldmining town of Daylesford can make you dizzy before you’ve reached the bottom of your glass of local spring water. Winding roads, fresh air, glorious food and Australia’s largest concentration of natural springs make this small township on Melbourne’s outskirts an excellent stop. Enjoy genuine Aussie hospitality while you fill your bag with all the fine produce you can pack for the journey home.

daylesford organics A unique operation with vast certified-organic orchards, market gardens and live chickens on the grounds, Daylesford Organics is where you can witness first-hand how organic produce is grown, talk to the growers and sample some of the most amazing fresh, just-out-of-the-ground heirloom produce. Tel: +614 1104 0412

istra Smallgoods At this family-run company, you can sample a dazzling product range, from thick slices of ham from the bone to ˇ cured meats such as capocollo and pecenica (cured loin), all preserved using the Jurcan family’s generations-old Croatian curing processes. Tel: +613 5348 3382

lake House No trip to Daylesford would be complete without a meal or sampling of products at the beautiful Lake House, which is helmed by culinary and hospitality doyenne Alla Wolf-Tasker. Her delightful product range includes fragrant olive oils, jams, quince pastes

and the famous garlic aioli, all available at Lake House and Wombat Hill House. www.lakehouse.com.au

tuki Farm Experience the true “Aussie” hospitality of Rob Tuki and sample his phenomenal trout and lamb products. Head to the ponds to catch your own trout then have it cooked by Rob while you recline in comfort inside the wood-panelled restaurant. Witnessing Rob fillet a fish is like watching a carefully choreographed ballet – something you must see to believe. www.tuki.com.au

red beard bakery Owners John and Al Reid sell certified-organic, authentic sourdough breads handmade using traditional techniques and baked in a 19th century wood-fired oven. The cafe menu features local, seasonal and organic ingredients while the behindthe-scenes tours and baking workshops will enlighten food and heritage lovers. www.redbeardbakery.com.au

CAN’T DeCIDe WHere TO gO Or WHAT TO see?

• Join an unforgettable Journeys Tour by Melbourne Private Tours and let knowledgeable foodies be your guide. www. melbprivatetours.com.au/ unforgettable-journeys • Visit during the Autumn Harvest Festival and celebrate Daylesford’s finest growers, provedores, chefs, restaurateurs and vignerons. www.dmproduce.com.au

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Mornington PeninSulA

Morning

Magic

Blessed with an abundance of prime produce and cool-climate wines, stunning landscapes and pleasant Mediterranean weather, it’s no wonder the Mornington Peninsula is home to not one but five one-hat restaurants and a glorious foodie’s paradise

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n this stretch of natural wonder, located just an hour’s drive from Melbourne, breathtaking bay beaches, unruly surf and picturesque hinterlands are matched by an equally prominent food and wine scene. It is an epicentre of activity where locals have been flying the “make it, bake it, grow it and breed it” flag to stunning effect. Discover awardwinning wines, some of Victoria’s best restaurants, and providores with goods that will make you weak at the knees.

ProduCerS And ProVidoreS Cellar & Pantry This speciality food and wine store stocks local produce, boutique wine and beer, free-range local meats, fresh fruit and vegetables. There is also a wide range of imported goods and artisan cheeses from local cheese makers. www.cellarandpantry.com.au

green olive estate This estate is hedonism for the senses. With exceptional olives, oil, a range of products as well as a restaurant and cooking school, there is much to see and do. Enjoy the fruits of the land – olives, grapes, herbs and veggies – then watch as they are turned into products you’ll love to eat and take home. www.greenolive.com.au 16

Main ridge dairy The Noxon family has a 200-plus strong herd of goats and makes cheeses which have proven very popular, most notably among the Peninsula’s fine restaurants. Visit for the fresh goat’s milk, wonderful fresh curds and semi-mature cheeses. Dairy tours are available most Saturdays. www.mainridgedairy.com.au

Pure Peninsula Honey Started after a discovery of two wild beehives, Pure Peninsula Honey now produces honey and honey-containing products such as lip balm, candles, soaps and moisturisers. Its bees also pollinate different fruit, vegetable and seed crops in order to produce honeys with unusual taste profiles. www.purepeninsulahoney.com.au

Sunny ridge Strawberry Farm Taste the dedication and passion for perfection at this family-run farm. The fragrant and juicy strawberries are bursting with that just-pulled-from-the-plant freshness. Pick your own berries from November to April. The cafe’s Strawberry Temptation dessert is heavenly. www.sunnyridge.com.au


“It is wonderful to be a chef and restaurateur on the Mornington Peninsula, which has its own micro-climate and a large array of smallbut-passionate food and wine producers. For a small region, we have an abundance of berries, cherries, heirloom vegetables, seafood and apples in season, as well as artisan food producers such as cheese makers and chocolatiers.” Max Paganoni, chef-owner at the one-hat Max’s at Red Hill Estate boutiQue WinerieS And reStAurAntS la Pétanque Chef Simon Buckley delights with a menu that dallies between classic and creative, while owner Philippe Marquet runs the floor with French charm and offers a tome-like wine list that’s worth lingering over – as are the spectacular vistas stretching over the vineyards and olive groves. www.lapetanque.com.au

Max’s at red Hill estate You’ll find here another spectacular union of food and wine where the farm-to-table philosophy is taken very seriously. Whether it is strawberries from Sunny Ridge, local grilled flat head tails in Red Hill Brewery’s pale ale beer batter or Delgrosso’s apples and Red Hill Cheese, the flavours are seasonal and fresh. www.maxsrestaurant.com.au

Merricks general Wine Store This cafe feels like an old schoolhouse or church with its bare boards and wood furniture while the service is warm and the food superb. An impressive offering of cakes and aromatic coffee makes this a tasty pit stop. www.mgwinestore.com.au

Montalto The timber and glass restaurant looks out onto the property’s 70 acres of olive groves and vines, while inside the kitchen a flurry of great cooking tells you that this is one restaurant that has embraced the food and wine revolution with fervour. The menu showcases the wine and pedigree produce, much of it from the kitchen garden. www.montalto.com.au

Paringa estate restaurant It looks like a simple winery restaurant but step inside and you will see that it is actually quite impressive. The Pinot is legendary, the Chardonnay and Shiraz close cousins and the extraordinary food is made using top-quality ingredients without any pretentious makeovers. www.paringaestate.com.au

Port Phillip estate At this award-winning winery and restaurant, a produce-driven menu partners dishes with outstanding wines from the winery and elsewhere. Beneath its chic modern chateau facade, you’ll find warm country hospitality. Exceptional wines by the glass match the skilful, produce-driven cooking. www.portphillipestate.com.au ten Minutes by tractor Pinot Noir lovers and fine food aficionados unite at this gustatory and vine-riddled enclave. The award-winning restaurant menu highlights fresh regional produce as well as the chef’s classical French training, matched with a curated wine list and magnificent vineyard views. www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au the long table Owners Andrew and Samantha have created a unique dining experience where passionately produced food marries a keen appreciation for wine, food and art. The restaurant is excellent, with an elegant dining room that is constantly abuzz, and the menu is regionally focused. www.thelongtable.com.au 17


bellArine PeninSulA

Ocean

Fantasy Not just a playground for water lovers, the Bellarine Peninsula is building a reputation for its sophisticated food scene, and nothing proves the theory better than a taste trail

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ust over an hour’s drive south of Melbourne, the beautiful Bellarine Peninsula region has the best of both urban and country living. Experience heritage buildings fitted with modern interiors, wineries, intimate galleries, gourmet produce and refined food served in a country setting. Walking down the main street lined with quaint old Victorian buildings, you’ll be lulled into nostalgic dreams of a past life while the sophisticated food and wine offerings will jolt you into the reality that this is a region that takes its produce seriously. Set against evergreen hills, the Bellarine is perfect for wandering unhurriedly in between stops to indulge in regional wine and cheese platters, discover a flower farm or savour freshly caught succulent mussels. 18

tHe bellArine tASte trAil An insider’s guide to the beauty and treasures of the Bellarine Peninsula, the taste trail highlights farmgates to visit, restaurants to dine at, wines to try and delightful B&Bs to relax in. Follow the trail or devise your own itinerary – the experts will be happy to guide families with young children, groups of friends and couples seeking romantic respite.

360Q It looks modern but this waterfront restaurant has a somewhat rustic feel with bare stone and glass (not to mention quite a few barrels of Yering Station wine on show). Seafood is the name of the game but the steak is just as good. Save room for dessert. www.360q.com.au Annie’s Provedore & Produce Store A stop for coffee – served in gorgeous bison ceramics – and supplies, this place is where you’ll find walls lined with delicacies (from biscuits to preserves and oils),


produce hung from the ceiling among woven baskets, and cold cases heavy with cheeses, meats and cakes. It’s heavenly. www.anniesprovedore.com.au

drysdale Cheeses The Saanen dairy goats here are known by name, lovingly cared for and fed from photo-worthy green pastures. The fresh, pure milk they produce in return is pasteurised and turned into a delectable goats cheese range according to permaculture farming principles and ethical animal treatment by the talented Corrine Blacket. From the garlic and sea salt shev to the silky goat curd, you’ll be spoilt for choice. www.drysdalecheeses.webs.com elk Horn road House A converted old tin shed in the middle of a horse paddock, this is as comforting as your grandmother’s house. The majority of produce is sourced locally and all baked goods are made daily on-site. If you are there for breakfast, don’t go past the tasting plate and the opportunity to sample a bit of everything the Bellarine has to offer. www.elkhornroadhouse.com.au great Southern Waters Abalone lovers will rejoice at Great Southern Waters where exquisite abalone are farmed and exported to the region and internationally. The abalone farm and live export/processing facility is situated beside the Southern Ocean at Indented Head and covers around 10 hectares of land. Inside the large tanks, abalone are spawned, grown and harvested. Here, the pretty little turquoise-aqua shells of the Jade Tiger Abalone cling to artificial rocks, ready for eager customers to enjoy. www.gsw.com.au Jack rabbit Winery Set on a grassy hill which rolls down to the ocean and with vines that stretch out behind, Jack Rabbit has a modern tasting room and a cafe. The formal restaurant will reopen in November following extensive renovation works. Go for the unrivalled views

“Producing food from Victoria has great advantages because the region is synonymous with premium quality food products, environmental best practices, innovative food processing methods and high food safety standards. It is an honour to be part of Victoria’s well-managed seafood farming industry. Our Jade Tiger Abalone is sustainably grown in Victoria’s pristine coastal waters on the largest abalone farm in Australia. The range has received growing demand from consumers in Southeast Asia.” Anton Krsinich, Chief Executive Officer of Great Southern Waters

which are best enjoyed with the vineyard’s delightful rosé. www.jackrabbitvineyard.com.au

Piknik Piknik offers an insight into the produce of the Bellarine Peninsula. Many of the ingredients used on the all-day breakfast and lunch menu are handpicked from its onsite orchard. All other produce is sourced from local Bellarine producers. Pop in for a breakfast treat or home-churned icecream, or take home one of the many flavourful house-made preserves. www.piknik.com.au

Q Seafood Provedore Situated on a jetty, this is the ultimate stop for seafood chowder lovers. French chef Steph McGlynn fills an artisanal Zeally Bay bread bowl with the most delicious and hearty chowder. Tel: +613 5258 1333 Sea bounty Mussels World-famous, sweet and tender, Australian blue mussels are yours to discover and savour at Sea Bounty Mussels in Portarlington. Here, the mussels are grown on ropes suspended in deep water (hence there’s no sand in the shells). You can visit the processing plant at St Leonards or sample these fresh beauties at the many restaurants and wineries in the area. www.seabounty.com.au 19


timeless beauty ➽ Restrained luxury courts seduction

in Dubrovnik, Croatia – the holiday destination of choice for the European chi-chi set, and those seeking the “je ne sais quoi” that comes with a city tastefully abandoning its Iron Curtain past.

by KATRINA MEYNINK

december 2010 / january 2011 t 159 t appetite


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he medieval city of Dubrovnik, located in south Dalmatia, has long been one of the more anonymous coastal destinations in Europe – rootless and slightly forlorn thanks to a forced identity crisis under the Iron Curtain and its subsequent separation from Yugoslavia. Once an alien to outsiders, this was a place few wished to come to, and fewer were allowed. Until now. Dubrovnik is like a developing photograph, an image progressing from blurred grey first impressions to materialisation and colour infinite. Despite its complicated past, this European darling has dumped its training wheels and is riding towards a glorious technicolour sunset shining with natural beauty, unique history and touches of five star luxury. To appreciate just how far Dubrovnik has come, it helps to understand its long, turbulent, and at times torrid history. Following an invasion of a nearby region by barbarians in the 7th century, people flocked to the safest place they could find – a picturesque rocky outcrop on the coastline – and proceeded to create a fortress of city walls that have withstood numerous attacks and natural disasters from the 15th century to the more recent shelling in the 1991 Yugoslav wars. Despite major political, economic and social upheavals, composers, poets, philosophers and painters turned Dubrovnik into a major cultural centre of the Adriatic. And this awkward juxtaposition of change, development and restraint, is at its very essence, the attraction of Dubrovnik. It is virgin territory. With limited funds or resources, nothing has been bulldozed to make way for something better. Rather, the control of the Iron Curtain past has allowed the city to maintain its true heart and welcome, with caution rather than capitalistic vigour, the growing offering of luxurious hotels and development; all while maintaining the en vogue styles of the era from marble streets to baroque architecture and the recent sharp lines of modern design. Perhaps the 1991 war, which devastated more than 800 buildings, was a blessing in disguise. It put the city and its beauty at the forefront of the minds of its residents, humble visitors and importantly its government which has committed to repair and reconstruction using only traditional materials and trained stoneworkers for people to enjoy the fully intact town walls and monuments. The structure of the old town is made for walking and its logical grid formation makes gaining your bearings appetite t 160 t december 2010 / january 2011

SAFE CITY Dubrovnik is an incredibly safe city to visit but as always when travelling, exercise some caution especially if it’s late at night or you are alone.

easy. The 82-foot walls, which are up to 7m thick in some parts, no longer repel invaders but embrace foreigners. A walk along the limestone city wall is the quintessential Dubrovnik experience and a wonderful opportunity to watch the European sun flood the amber-roofed houses; to sneak a peak into the windows and lives of the locals whose homes are encased within the walls; and to contemplate “just how lucky you are” as you drink in the stellar views of the sea. The walk will take you about an hour, but set aside two – it doesn’t take long before you are stopped dead both physically and emotionally by the beauty of the setting…and for that perfect holiday photograph worthy of missives on postcards home. And you’ll need the extra time to cut through the swathe of tourists that have a nasty habit of ruining the serenity and the view, no matter where you go. Replenish your fluids and regain your energy with a coffee or cocktail from one of the many cafes along the way then head down to ground and into the centre of the old town to witness the architectural cachet of the 15th Century Onoforio Fountain, the Clock Tower, Pile Gate and the Franciscan Monastery. Then take a gander


Discovering Dubrovnik Perched on a picturesque rocky outcrop on the coastline, this charming old town is enclosed within 82-foot walls.

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5

★ TIPS ★

DUBROVNIK ➽ WHEN TO GO Dubrovnik enjoys the enviable Mediterranean climate: warm and wet winters, dry and hot summers. Numerous businesses are closed between November and May with June and July at season (and tourism) peak. Many visitors recommend the fringe periods of August, September and early October as the optimal time to visit. You beat the often hot and dry heat of the summer. ➽ HOW TO GET THERE There are no direct flights to Croatia from Singapore. However, Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.hr), a Star Alliance member, flies to Dubrovnik from several major European cities. There are flights from Frankfurt daily, but it’s also possible to connect from London, Paris, or Amsterdam. The airport is located about 10 miles from the old town. ➽ LANGUAGE Croatian is the language spoken in Dubrovnik but you will find the majority of people, including those working in hotels, stores, and restaurants speak English. ➽ GETTING AROUND The majority of attractions are situated in the old town and its labyrinth of streets and lanes, making this carfree Mecca, a great place to explore on foot. If you need a taxi, there are always drivers situated at the main gates of the old town and there are a plethora of car hire offices. ➽ TOURIST INFORMATION Tel: +385-20321561 or log on to www.croatia-official.com ➽ CURRENCY SGD1 = Kuna4. You will find Euros are also commonly accepted.


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at the War Photo Limited Museum – one of the best collections of photojournalism you are ever likely to come across. If you have any energy left, take a speed ferry to the island of Lokrum, a UNESCO protected national park and enjoy swimming off the rocks. There are many bars with perfect views throughout the old town for an afternoon tipple but it’s hard to go past Buza, a simple bar that delivers on what its’ sign promises: “Cold drinks with the most beautiful view.” The setting on a rocky outcrop over the cerulean water is perfect for sunsets and people watching. For dinner, the options are many with the cuisine coming ahead in leaps and bounds from its starch based past. While it’s true, you still may have to pick carefully among the bounty of restaurants in the old town to avoid dishes of the overcooked and slightly too old variety, drinking

1

Dining options are many with the cuisine coming ahead in leaps and bounds from its starch- based past. sliovtiz and eating apricot preserves is a memory of travellers past. When the sun goes down and your belly is full, it is Villa Dubrovnik that demonstrates how far Dubrovnik has come and the city’s unmeasurable affinity with that largely desired but rarely acquired concept of restrained luxury. The class, calm, design, service and setting on the outer

decadent dubrovnik 1. Dining with a view at Restaurant Pjerin 2. Fashionable outfits for a glamorous night out 3. Villa Dubrovnik

appetite t 162 t december 2010 / january 2011

edge of the old town make this retreat second to none, and home to one of the world’s four diamond bed spa treatments. But no matter where you stay, or how you choose to spend your time, Dubrovnik is one city that will have you gazing, gasping and overworking your digital camera; which is a wise move – this kind of beauty should stay with you long after you return home.


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Where to shop Run your hands over fine threads from fashion heavyweights Marni, Givenchy and more at Maria. Ullca Sv. Dominika bb, Tel: +385-2032-1330, www.maria-dubrovnik.com Delve into luxe prints and bright colours at Heruc Galeria, the hedonistic in-hotel store of Villa Dubrovnik. Vlaha Bukovea 6, Tel: + 385-1365-0819, www.herucgaleria.hr For bespoke one-off jewellery pieces and artworks, look no further than Gallery Stradun. Placa 15, Tel: +385-2032-3778, www.stradun.hr

Where to eat If you like to push the boundaries and adventurous degustation in stellar surrounds is more your style, it’s hard to beat the covetable Restaurant Pjerin. Villa Dubrovnik. Vlaha Bukovca 6, Tel: +385-2042-2933, www.villa-dubrovnik.hr

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When you ask for “insider knowledge” on where to go, more often than not friendly locals will point you in the direction of Nautika next to the Pile Gate entrance to the old town. Brsalje 3, Tel: +385-2044-2526. Sesame is the place to go for authentic Dalmatian cuisine and picturesque old-town inspired settings. Dante Alighieria b.b., Tel: +385-2041-2910, www.sesame.hr Gil’s meets the requisite cocktail bar-cum-restaurant criteria with a food and drinks list that matches the phenomenal surrounds. Svetog Dominika BB, Tel: + 385-2032-2222, www.gilsdubrovnik.com

Best Beds For pure hedonism and a high thread count, rest and revitalise at the beautiful Villa Dubrovnik. www.villa-dubrovnik.hr, Tel: +385-2042-2933 The luxurious Hotel Excelsior affords views over the Adriatic and towards the old town. Frana Supila 12,Tel: +385-2035-3353, www.hotel-excelsior.hr If you like old world opulence combined with modern luxury, the baroque Pucic Palace is the place for you. 1 Od Puca, Dubrovnik, Tel: +385-2032-6222, www.thepucicpalace.com


Livetravel gourmet trails

An Insider’s Guide to Stockholm

glorious food and wines

Hot shops, epicurean delights, annual Christmas markets, unique sleeps… get set for an unforgettable trip with our insider’s guide to stylish Stockholm by katrina meynink


travel

While

it is important to see “the sites” when visiting a new city, often it is the little things that transcend a visit from ordinary to extraordinary. It’s the nuances of daily life, from discovering the favourite coffee shop of locals, or stumbling across their weekend escape destination of choice that can give us a true sense of place and the cultural heartbeat of its people. And this adage certainly rings true when visiting Stockholm, Sweden’s capital. We were recently taken under the wing of local Stockholmers to discover a truly Nordic experience in a city that should be on every traveller’s list of must-visit places.

Stockholm Fact | The city was

established in 1252 by Birger Jarl as a fortified island defense outpost against Baltic pirates

Stockholm is cool, vibrant yet laidback, and everything works beautifully. It celebrates the world of aesthetics — from architecture to fonts, publishing to fashion, and furniture to food. It is a true celebration of the form and function appetiteasia.com | 172

of everything around us. Although Stockholm’s ambience is aesthetically charged, the city is not without its heart and quirky, irreverent charm — it’s a place where five-star boutique hotels come together with artisan furniture

design, ancient relics, and the natural beauty of the archipelago. The city is located on Sweden’s southcentral east coast, where Lake Mälaren meets the Baltic Sea. The Stockholm Archipelago comprises 24,000 islands, but the city itself occupies a tiny 14 of them, connected by 53 bridges and stunning waterways. As the economic and political heart of Sweden, Stockholm is service sector-driven and with an absence of industrial manufacture combined with strict environmental laws, it is an incredibly clean city. One third of the city’s area is water, another is parkland, and the remaining third is a haven for its green, progressive, designmad and friendly inhabitants. The old town, Gamla Stan, is a beautiful medieval city of maze-like cobblestone streets and tight-fitting ochre coloured buildings that seem to hold themselves up with love and luck over the top of quirky shop fronts. Further south is the incredibly hip Södermalm, where beauty reigns supreme as hipsters and bohemians


For Foodies

Mathias Dahlgrens Eating at this epicurean pit-stop is a must for culinary mavens. This modern bistro doesn’t take itself too seriously, and the food and produce are representative of all that is great about Nordic cuisine — light, fresh, foraged and meticulously selected. Grand Hôtel Stockholm, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 6, SE-103 27. Tel: +46 8 679 3584, www.mathiasdahlgren.com

Rosendals Trädgård These spectacular gardens, once the domain of royalty, are now open to the public for all to witness organic cultivation firsthand. The plots and greenhouses are home to a wide range of biodynamically grown vegetables, flowers and herbs. The café here is extremely popular. The carrot cake alone is well worth the visit. And the short but punchy savoury menu, heavy on the salads during summer, is likely to see you visiting the Rosendals shop to purchase a cookbook to recreate the magic at home. Stiftelsen Rosendals Trädgård, Rosendalsterrassen 12, SE-115 21. Tel: +46 8 5458 1270, www.rosendalstradgard.se

Urban Deli

grace the streets lined with shops, art galleries and beautiful old residences. On the opposite side of the old town lies the city centre with its concentration of boutiques including Sweden’s famed

Acne and Filippa K, as well as restaurants that serve the sort of meals that leave you speechless and your preconceived notions of meatballs, herring and ABBA far behind.

If there is one thing that all those long hard winters did for the Swedes, it was to turn their propensity for curing and pickling foods to epic gastronomic proportions. Try the trio of pickled herrings at this great spot known for its laidback food. For the full ‘Swedish’ experience, try the Wallenbergare — a beautiful dish of lingonberries, green peas, brown butter and potatoes. Nytorget 4, SE-116 40. Tel: +46 8 5990 9180, www.urbandeli.org

clockwise from far left | the beautiful gardens and cafe of rosendals tradgard | view from the port of sodermalm foreshore out to the archipelego | cobblestone streets and delightful architecture in the old town, stockholm | kannelbullar buns with cardamom at fabrique bakery


travel

B.A.R. Think fresh seafood and heavy menus served in über cool surrounds amongst the local chi-chi set. Great food, a great drinks list and great people watching make this a hot spot. Traditional dishes are thick and fast on the menu with black pepper grilled red deer, truffle mayonnaise and pickled vegetables and buckwheat cakes with red onion and sour cream. Blasieholmsgatan 4A, SE-111 48, Public art | Tel: +46 8611 5337, Stockholm's subway is http://restaurangbar.se/

also known as the world's longest art gallery, with the majority of its stations being adorned with paintings, sculptures and mosaics.

seven outlets in Stockholm Tel: +46 7 6647 9103, www.fabrique.se

Fabrique This bakery sells thousands of sourdoughs per day; the bread being made with natural ingredients and baked in a traditional way, by hand, around the clock, and in a stone oven. For something sweeter, the traditional kannelbullar bun, particularly the version laden with the sweet husky taste of cardamom, is legendary. Fabrique has appetiteasia.com | 174

Fotografiska Museet Brunch mavens should make this a necessary pit-stop to refuel all the senses from the phenomenal and continually changing exhibitions of the museum, the million dollar water views and a stunning menu. Tastes change with the seasons but centre around Swedish dishes with favourites including pickled herring with chopped egg, chives, red onion and

scallops with marinated apple and Jerusalem artichoke. Stadsgårdshamnen 22, SE-116 45. Tel: + 46 8-50 900 500, http://en.fotografiska.eu

Ostermalm Food Hall A must visit for foodies, this food hall is brimming with produce heavy on seafood and regional specific fruits like ligonberries. Perfect for grazing, tasting and watching Stockholm's serious foodies as they select their delicacies. Östermalmstorg SE-114395. www.ostermalmshallen.se


Stockholm Christmas Markets

For shoppers

Stockholm’s popular markets or julmarknad have to be seen to be believed as locals kick into high gear preparing for Christmas. Numerous markets are held in spots across the city with local handicrafts, Christmas decorations and local festive delicacies including smoked sausage, reindeer meat, traditional Christmas sweets like saffron buns, marzipan and sugared almonds as well as plenty of glögg, a hot spicy wine. If you only have time for one, don't miss the annual Skansen Christmas market. Located at the Bollnäs Square, this market has been held every year since 1903 and is the largest and most popular with events held from December until 6 January. While shopping, enjoy live Christmas carols or maybe even participate in dancing games around the Christmas tree. www.skansen.se

Hipsters, bohemians and the city’s coolest flock to Grandpa for its spectacular mix of hard-to-find vintage furniture and clothing from international and local designers including Whyred, Hope, and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair. www.grandpa.se

For Naturalists Skärgården

Stockholm’s skärgård (archipelago) is one of the most breathtaking natural formations in the world. With more than 24,000 islands, big and small, some inhabited, others not, it is the city’s paradise. The best way to see the islands is via boat. Some islands worth exploring are Fjäderholmarna, Vaxholm and Sandhamn. www.visitskargarden.se

Gotland If you’re lucky enough to have sufficient spare time in Stockholm, many locals recommend taking a short flight or the ferry to Gotland, the largest island in the Baltic Sea. Gotland offers amazing beaches, shopping, historical sites and Gotland hästar (ponies). While there, you might want to explore Fårön or Gotska Sandön. www.gotland.info

Grandpa

Parlans Boutique Toffee Parlans makes toffees with love — and organic cream, real butter and premium sugar. The décor and china are reminiscent of old-time luxury. Enjoy coffee at its best, with sounds from yesteryear and velvety smooth handmade toffees with creative flavour infusions. Parlans knows how to make the most of past and present. www.parlanskonfektyr.se

Tjallamalla Bring your credit card and embrace the beauty of Swedish fashion and beyond. With more than 250 designers and up and coming talents, this is the place to find that hidden gem to pack into your suitcase. www.tjallamalla.com

Svenkst Tenn's Tea Salon Enjoy tea and retail serenity at the tea salon housed within the Svenkst Tenn interior design store. Founded in 1924 by Estrid Ericson, the store is located on Strandväge. Artisanal blends are poured amidst modernist and eclectic furniture, and hallmark Swedish designs like the famous Joseph Frank wallpaper collection. www.svenskttenn.se

Acne The mothership store located at Norrmalmstorg is filled with great clothing, shoes, jeans, jeans and jeans. Be warned, Stockholmers know their denim and the possibilities can be overwhelming. www.acnestudios.com

clockwise from far left | lust-worthy produce at ostermalm food hall | scandinavian design highlights at hotel skeppsholmen | gustatory and garden delights at urban deli | enjoy high tea at stockholm institution svenkst tenn's tea salon | the trendy streets of the soder district


travel

fact box | Getting Around

The geography may seem overwhelming at first, but Stockholm is an easy city to navigate by foot. Or do like the locals and hire a bike. If time or the weather is against you, the transport system is safe and easy, making your travel through the city effortless. Individual tickets can be bought at the start of any journey and once stamped, the tickets last for an hour’s transport on buses and the subway. Taxi fares are on the more expensive side but tipping is not expected. | Weather The weather in Stockholm can vary but the nicest time to visit is during summer. The city really starts to blossom in May, and the months of July and August are warm enough for you to enjoy a swim, with the days long enough for you to pack in as much (or as little) sight-seeing as you wish.

Filippa K

ola ericson/imagebank.sweden.se

Perhaps one of the most well known labels to emerge from Sweden, Filippa K is known for its exceptional tailoring and sophisticated and muted colour palette. www.filippa-k.com

Papercut This small store sells movies, books and magazines. It’s easy to lose a few hours browsing the shelves and the perfectly curated list of titles. www.paprcutshop.se

rest Your head Berns Hotel

top to bottom | the tranquil hotel skeppsholmen foreshore | the christmas market in the old town has been a tradition since the early 1900s and is held every weekend in december leading up to christmas. appetiteasia.com | 176

Berns Hotel was built as a restaurant in 1863, then reincarnated over a century later as Stockholm’s best-loved hotel and entertainment palace. The design is a unique and workable combination of Scandinavian minimalism and Baroque appeal. Tel: +46 8 5663 2200, www.berns.se

Story Hotel The interior design of this hotel is inspired by New York’s eclectic

restaurants and Paris’ bohemian hotels, and injected with the spirit of the musicians and artists that used to reside here. Guests will love its 100 per cent organic cotton sheets and city centre locale. Tel: +46 8 5450 3940, www.storyhotels.com

Nobis Hotel A tastefully designed hotel not to be missed by luxury junkies — this is Stockholm exemplified. Think sophisticated colour palettes that reflect and accentuate the beautiful lights this city is renowned for. Tel: +46 8 614 1000, www.nobishotel.se

Hotel Skeppsholmen Housed in an 18th century building, Hotel Skeppsholmen is the perfect balance of history and modern design. Since opening its doors in 2009, it has become a hub for discerning travellers who like their thread count high and their hotel intimate and unique. Tel: +46 8 407 2300, www.hotelskeppsholmen.com


{food features}


CELEBRATE MAHJONG AFTERNOON Gatherings at the Tan family home in Sydney are always lively affairs and this occasion proved no exception. We joined them on a winter’s afternoon for a game of mahjong and an elaborate spread of Malaysian Nyonya dishes.

FEAST 47


TheThe cheerful sounds emanating from chef cheerful sounds emanating from chef Alvin Tan’s home in Sydney’s easteast areare warm Alvin Tan’s home in Sydney’s warm andand infectious, andand verging on on raucous. infectious, verging raucous. prawn filling); otak otak (steamed spicy fishspicy in banana At one end theend terrace house, a lively of mahjong ensues, ensues, prawnotak filling); otak (steamed fish inparcels); banana babi parcels); babi Atof one of the terrace house,battle a lively battle of mahjong withpork shiitake gulai tumis ikan (a hot while in the kitchen, is a there flurryisofa activity, herbs, meat, siohpork (stewed withmushrooms); shiitake mushrooms); gulai tumis ikan (a hot while in thethere kitchen, flurry ofasactivity, as herbs, meat, sioh (stewed fish curry); and sago and gulasago Melaka dessert seafood and freshand vegetables are chopped, ground and dicedand with sour fish curry); gulafor Melaka for(chilled dessertsago (chilled sago seafood fresh vegetables are chopped, ground diced withand sour and pudding with coconut and milk palmand sugar syrup). The dishes have military-like precision.precision. It is a cold, day, but that pudding withmilk coconut palm sugar syrup). The dishes have military-like It windy is a cold, windy day,doesn’t but thatstop doesn’t stop their own distinct clean and light flavour, predicated on the balance Alvin andAlvin his 13and guests, a mix of family and friends, from enjoying their own distinct clean and light flavour, predicated on theofbalance of his 13 guests, a mix of family and friends, from enjoying and heat with somewith common tastes of coconut, leaves, a traditional Nyonya feast, a blend cooking that has thatsweetness sweetness and heat some common tastes of curry coconut, curry leaves, a traditional Nyonya feast,ofa Straits-Chinese blend of Straits-Chinese cooking has lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, chillies and pandanus leaves. many regional variations and influences. There is an easy intimacy lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, chillies and pandanus leaves. many regional variations and influences. There is an easy intimacy Nyonya, Alvin is committed to keepingto keeping at the gathering, which according to Alvin’stofriend Gary Soh,Gary also Soh, also As a fourth-generation As a fourth-generation Nyonya, Alvin is committed at the gathering, which according Alvin’s friend the food traditions of his family alive. He learned the dishes from his from his of Straits-Chinese heritage, is because Malaysians don’t differentiate the food traditions of his family alive. He learned the dishes of Straits-Chinese heritage, is because Malaysians don’t differentiate grandmother, who, in turn, taught bytaught a neighbour in their small between family and friends. grandmother, who,was in turn, was by a neighbour in their small between family and friends. of Teluk Intan, in Intan, the state Alvin saysAlvin says “If you drop in todrop somebody’s house, you are considered part of parthometown hometown of Teluk in of thePerak state in of Malaysia. Perak in Malaysia. “If you in to somebody’s house, you are considered of his culinary heritage is very important to him. “This is the food the familythe and you eat together. We will drop in unannounced and his culinary heritage is very important to him. “This is of theour food of our family and you eat together. We will drop in unannounced and home and of our childhood. It is very hard to transfer the recipes. stay for a stay meal. People visit each other, it’s just what we do. And the home and of our childhood. It is very hard to transfer theThe recipes. The for a meal. People visit each other, it’s just what we do. And the create by create taste. They estimate the quantity food and food rounds mahjong are what we explains goodcooks Nyonya cooks by taste. They on estimate on the of quantity of andofrounds of mahjong are enjoy,” what we enjoy,” Gary. explains Gary. good Nyonya the ingredient and have no need for measures or written recipes.” There areThere murmurs of agreement from the mahjong table where the ingredient and have no need for measures or written recipes.” are murmurs of agreement from the mahjong table where Chong agrees: “The old Nyonya have now have retired Victor Lee, Karen Ong, Irene SohIrene and Susan Chong areChong engaged Friend Alan Chong agrees: “The oldcooks Nyonya cooks now retired Victor Lee, Karen Ong, Soh and Susan arein engaged in Friend Alan or gone to their happy hunting grounds. Our taste craves the older styleolder style a competitive battle which – for this match – they’ve decided not or gone to their happy hunting grounds. Our taste craves the a competitive battle which – for this match – they’ve decided not thewhere making as important as the eating. The tongue to place bets on. The revolves ofwhere cooking, theismaking is as important as the eating. The tongue to place betsgame on. The gamearound revolvesplayers arounddrawing playersand drawing and of cooking, knows. The younger cooks are not as good because they use modern discardingdiscarding tiles to make pairs or groups, and according to Victor, knows. The younger cooks are not as good because they use modern tiles to make pairs or groups, and according to Victor, conveniences. Food processors and ready-made pastes arepastes used instead it is “70 per and 30 per cent We play as play muchit for conveniences. Food processors and ready-made are used instead it iscent “70 luck per cent luck and 30 skill. per cent skill.itWe as much for of batu giling [a stone for grinding or spices] the rempah the mental as we use as it we as an to get together. of batu gilingslab [a stone slab for spices] grinding or the[spicy rempah [spicy thestimulation mental stimulation useopportunity it as an opportunity to get together. paste thatpaste underpins much of Nyonya it tastes It is a game that anyone everyone can play,”can he says. that underpins much ofcooking] Nyonya and cooking] anddifferent.” it tastes different.” It is a game thatand anyone and everyone play,” he says. As they chatter, Ida pays scrupulous attention to the grinding For AlvinFor andAlvin his family, these gatherings are an important way of As they chatter, Ida pays scrupulous attention to the and grinding and and his family, these gatherings are an important way of pastes, her handsher moving as swiftly she binds thebinds fish the fish keeping their culture Alvin immigrated to Australia in 1990 with frying of the pastes, handsswiftly moving as she keeping theiralive. culture alive. Alvin immigrated to Australia in 1990frying with of the mousse for the otak being surebeing to stir in just theinone his wife Jessica and their and two their children, to help run mousse forotak, the otak otak, sure to stir justdirection. the one direction. his wife Jessica two children, to Sydney help runrestaurant Sydney restaurant a lothave of specific Ida reveals, says that Taste of Malaysia. After three years, theyyears, decided branchto out on their Nyonyas a lot ofmethods, specific methods, Idaand reveals, and when says that when Taste of Malaysia. After three theytodecided branch out onNyonyas their have she was growing up, she followed her grandmother: “When I own: theyown: operated Seri Nyonya in Sydney’s south for 10 years before she was growing up, she followed her grandmother: cooked, “When I cooked, they operated Seri Nyonya in Sydney’s south for 10 years before I did as I Iwas bytaught my grandmother.” opening My AsianMy Table cooking didtold as I and was was toldtaught and was by my grandmother.” opening Asian Tableschool. cooking school. It would seem Nyonya and healthy Today, Alvin, hisAlvin, wife Jessica, aunt and Ida are a It would seemculinary Nyonya traditions culinary traditions andcompetition healthy competition Today, his wifeand Jessica, auntpreparing Ida are preparing a at the mahjong table are alive well among this happythis group. Nyonya feast of kueh (crisp pastry shells with a vegetable and at the mahjong table and are alive and well among happy group. Nyonya feastpie of tee kueh pie tee (crisp pastry shells with a vegetable and 48 FEAST

48 FEAST


CELEBRATE CELEBRATE

GulaGula Melaka Melaka This unrefined palm sugar

This unrefined palm sugar originatesoriginates from Melaka in Melaka in from south-western Malaysia. Malaysia. south-western The intensity sweetness Theof intensity of sweetness makes it amakes popular it achoice popular choice for Nyonya It is fordesserts. Nyonya desserts. It is made from the sap from made from the sap from sugar palm treespalm – several sugar trees – several incisions are cut into incisions arethe cut into the flowering flowering stalks of the palm stalks of the palm to releaseto the sap, which release the sap, which drips intodrips a bamboo into apot. bamboo pot. The syrupy liquid is then The syrupy liquid is then boiled down to adown thick,to a thick, boiled caramel-like consistency, caramel-like consistency, poured into moulds and sold and sold poured into moulds in block-form. The flavour in block-form. The flavour profile is different profile isfrom different from other palm sugars as sugars it has as it has other palm Kueh pie tee (pastry cups with prawns and a far more intense, smoky Kueh pie tee (pastry cups with prawns and a far more intense, smoky yam bean), recipe page 53. Clockwise from yam bean), recipe page 53. Clockwise from and buttery sweetness and buttery sweetness top right: using the pie tee mould; Susan top right: using the pie tee mould; Susan and significantly darker Chong, Jessica Tan, Ida Loo and Irene Soh and significantly darker Chong, Jessica Tan, Ida Loo and Irene Soh colouring.colouring. It is available preparing lunch; kerabu jantung pisang It is available preparing lunch; kerabu jantung pisang (banana blossom, prawn and coconut from Asian food shops. (banana blossom, prawn and coconut from Asian food shops. salad), recipe page 55; Karen Ong and salad), recipe page 55; Karen Ong andSubstitute dark palm sugar Substitute dark palm sugar Victor Lee playing mahjong. Opposite, far Victor Lee playing mahjong. Opposite, far from Indonesia or Vietnam. right: Alvin’s aunt, Ida Loo, with Irene Soh. from Indonesia or Vietnam. right: Alvin’s aunt, Ida Loo, with Irene Soh.

FEAST 49

FEAST 49


Mini vegetable spring rolls Mini vegetable spring rolls were also served on the day. were also served on the day.

Mahjong Mahjong

Mahjong is an ancient Mahjong is an ancient Chinese table game, thegame, the Chinese table origins oforigins which are said toare said to of which date backdate more thanmore 2000 back than 2000 years to the court of years to thethe court of the King of Wu. Forofcenturies, King Wu. For centuries, the gamethe wasgame reserved was for reserved for royalty, with decapitation royalty, with decapitation declared the penalty declared thefor penalty for commoners caught playing commoners caught playing the game.the That ban was game. That ban was reportedly lifted in about reportedly lifted in about 500AD, which enabled 500AD, whichthe enabled the game to grow gameintopopularity grow in popularity around the globe.the Mahjong around globe. Mahjong means ‘sparrow means tiles’ ‘sparrow tiles’ referring to the melodious referring to the melodious sound thesound tiles make when the tiles make when shuffled. It is also aItgame ofa game of shuffled. is also chance, usually played by chance, usually played by four players, are dealt fourwho players, who are dealt either 13 or 16 pictographic either 13 or 16 pictographic tiles of different Thesuits. The tiles of suits. different players then take turns players then take turns drawing and discarding drawing and discarding tiles, withtiles, a goal of making with a goal of making four or five combinations of four or five combinations of tiles, or melds, and one pair, tiles, or melds, and one pair, or head. The rules The followed or head. rules followed are decided by the areupon decided upon by the players atplayers the beginning of at the beginning of each game and can vary each game and can vary considerably depending considerably depending on the country region on theand country and region played. This can include played. This can include the number tiles forofeach theofnumber tiles for each player and whether player andyou whether you play as a game, play asaanumber game, a number of rounds,oforrounds, a set time, or a set time, and whether not youor not you andor whether place monetary bets. place monetary bets.

50 FEAST

50 FEAST

The traditional Nyonya The traditional Nyonya lunch. Below from left: lunch. Below from left: Jeremy Tan and Ida Loo; Jeremy Tan and Ida Loo; making the pie tee filling. making the pie tee filling.


CELEBRATE

★

THE MENU

★

Kueh pie tee

(Pastry cups with prawns and yam bean)

Otak otak

(Fish steamed in banana leaf)

Babi sioh

(Stewed pork with shiitake mushrooms & brown bean paste)

Gulai tumis ikan

Shuffling the mahjong tiles. Clockwise, from top left: babi sioh (stewed pork with shiitake mushrooms and brown bean paste), recipe page 53; Alvin Tan (standing) with family and friends; making otak otak (fish steamed in banana leaf), recipe page 53.

(Hot and sour fish curry)

Kerabu jantung pisang (Banana blossom, prawn and coconut salad)

Sago gula melaka (Chilled sago with palm sugar syrup)

FEAST 51


Pie tee Piepastry tee pastry Place 50gPlace plain50g flour,plain 2 tbsflour, 2 tbs rice flour,rice Âź tsp salt and flour, Âź tspegg salt and egg in a bowl.in Make a well in the a bowl. Make a well in the centre and gradually whisk centre and gradually whisk in 100ml water until smooth. in 100ml water until smooth. Fill a deep-fryer or large or large Fill a deep-fryer saucepansaucepan one-third one-third full full with vegetable oil and heat with vegetable oil and heat over medium to 170C overheat medium heat to 170C (or until a (or cube of until abread cube of bread turns golden in golden 15 seconds). turns in 15 seconds). Immerse pie tee mould in mould in Immerse pie tee hot oil forhot 2 minutes or until oil for 2 minutes or until hot. Dip heated mould twohot. Dip heated mould twothirds of the wayofinto thirds thebatter, way into batter, then immerse oil, shaking then in immerse in oil, shaking mould to release pastry mould to release pastry cup. Fry for 30Fry seconds cup. for 30or seconds or until golden. untilRemove golden.with Remove with a slotted spoon andspoon drain and drain a slotted on paper towel. Repeat with on paper towel. Repeat with remainingremaining batter. Makes 25.Makes 25. batter. Alvin takes orders fororders the for the Alvin takes moulds, and picks them up them up moulds, and picks on trips toon Malaysia. Visit trips to Malaysia. Visit myasiantable.com myasiantable.com

Right: bubur kacang Right: bubur kacang hijau dan gandum hijau dan gandum (green pea and pearl (green pea and pearl barley), another dessert barley), another dessert served on the day. served on the day.

52 FEAST

52 FEAST

Otak otak (fish Otak otak (fish steamed in banana steamed in banana leaf), recipe opposite leaf), recipe opposite


CELEBRATE CELEBRATE

KUEH PIE TEEPIE TEE KUEH PASTRYPASTRY CUPS WITH CUPS WITH PRAWNS AND YAM BEAN PRAWNS AND YAM BEAN

for 2 minutes until light brown. yam Add turn gradually add coconut for 2 or minutes or until lightAdd brown. yam to coat, turnthen to coat, then gradually addmilk. coconut milk. bean, carrot, beans, soy,beans, 2 tbs soy, water, white Stir to combine set aside. bean, carrot, 2 tbs water, white Stir to and combine and set aside. pepper and ½ tspand salt,½and for 3cook minutes 3 To make one piece of banana pepper tsp cook salt, and for 3 minutes 3 parcels, To makelay parcels, lay one piece of banana or until vegetables are cooked but still crisp. leaf on a flat surface, with the long facing Makes 25Makes 25 or until vegetables are cooked but still crisp. leaf on a flat surface, withedge the long edge facing Transfer to a bowl and keep warm. you. Place 3 betel leaves, shiny-side down, in down, in The pastry shells (see recipe, left) are made Transfer to a bowl and keep warm. you. Place 3 betel leaves, shiny-side The pastry shells (see recipe, left) are made of centre the banana Add leaf. a heaped using a special called a pie tee. As thetee. As4the When ready to assemble, stir reserved of theleaf. banana Add a heaped using mould a special mould called a pie 4 When ready to assemble, stir reservedthe centrethe tablespoonful of fish mixture and top moulds are difficult to find in Australia, we’ve cooked prawns and fried tofu through tablespoonful of fish mixturewith and top with moulds are difficult to find in Australia, we’ve cooked prawns and fried tofu through leaves. Fold the long closest substituted wonton wrappers and bakedand them mixture. Fill pastryFill cuppastry three-cup three- 2 more betel 2 more betel leaves. Fold edge the long edge closest substituted wonton wrappers bakedvegetable them vegetable mixture. theyou toptoedge, enclosing the filling,the filling, in a mini-muffin pan to mould them. with the filling. Serve the top edge, enclosing in a mini-muffin pan to mould them. quarters full quarters full warm with the warm filling. Serveto you to to in the short edges until theyuntil overlap topped with friedwith Asian redAsian eschalots, fold in the short edges they overlap topped fried red eschalots, then fold then in the centre. Secure with a toothpick. Repeat Repeat coriander leaves and chilli sauce. 25 square25 wonton wrappers in the centre. Secure with a toothpick. coriander leaves and chilli sauce. square wonton wrappers filling andfilling folding the remaining (mengkuang) is a crunchy 2 tsp vegetable oil * Yam bean andparcels foldingwith parcels with the remaining Yam bean (mengkuang) is aroot crunchy root 2 tsp vegetable oil *available banana leaves, betel leaves andleaves fish mixture. seasonallyseasonally from Asian 8 green prawns, with tails intact, banana leaves, betel and fish mixture. available from Asian 8 greenpeeled prawns, peeled with tails intact, vegetable vegetable food shops. Substitute plain or savoy 4 Place parcels inparcels a large in steamer over set over cleaned, finely chopped food shops. Substitute plaincabbage. or savoy cabbage. 4 Place a largeset steamer cleaned, finely chopped a saucepan of simmering water and steam forsteam for 1 garlic clove, chopped a saucepan of simmering water and 1 garlic clove, chopped 10 minutes or until filling is firm. Serve warm. OTAK OTAK 200g yam200g bean*, peeled, cut into julienne 10 minutes or until filling is firm. Serve warm. OTAK OTAK yam bean*, peeled, cut into julienne FISH STEAMED IN BANANA LEAF LEAF * Banana leaves, betel leaves andleaves driedand shrimp 1 carrot, peeled, into julienne FISH STEAMED IN BANANA leaves, betel dried shrimp 1 carrot,cut peeled, cut into julienne * Bananafrom paste are available Asian food shopsfood andshops and Makes 10Makes parcels 100g green beans, thinly sliced on the diagonal paste are available from Asian 10 parcels 100g green beans, thinly sliced on the diagonal selected greengrocers. You will need 10 toothpicks for this recipe. 1 tsp light1soy selected greengrocers. You will need 10 toothpicks for this recipe. tsp sauce light soy sauce ¼ tsp white pepper ¼ tsp white pepper banana leaves*, into cut into 250g fried250g firm fried tofu, firm cut into cubes bananacut leaves*, tofu,5mm cut into 5mm cubes2m-length2m-length 10 x 20cm10x x23cm Fried Asian red Asian eschalots and coriander leaves, leaves, 20cmrectangles x 23cm rectangles Fried red eschalots and coriander 1 egg, lightly beaten to serve to serve 1 egg, lightly beaten 3 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced 3 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced 325g red 325g snapper or firm white Chilli sauce redfillets snapper fillets or firm white Chilli sauce fish fillets,fish thinly sliced 100g (about 6) (about long red fillets, thinly sliced 100g 6)chillies, long redsliced chillies, sliced 60ml (¼ cup) coconut 8cm-piece ginger, peeled, 60ml (¼ cup)milk coconut milk 8cm-piece ginger,roughly peeled,chopped roughly chopped 50 betel leaves* 10 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 50 betel leaves* 10 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 75g (⅓ cup) sugar 75gwhite (⅓ cup) white sugar Spice paste 95g (⅓ cup) sauce (ketchup) Spice paste 95gtomato (⅓ cup) tomato sauce (ketchup) 1 onion, roughly 1 tbs lemon juice or white vinegar 1 onion,chopped roughly chopped 1 tbs lemon juice or white vinegar 4 long red4chillies, long redsliced chillies, sliced to 180C. a rolling 3 large dried red dried chillies, 1 Preheat1oven Preheat ovenUsing to 180C. Using pin a rolling pin 3 large redsoaked chillies, soaked lightly dusted with flour,with rollflour, out each in hot water for water 10 minutes lightly dusted roll wonton out each wonton in hot for 10 minutes wrapper to a 12cmto square. a 9cm round ½ lemongrass stalk, white partwhite only, part only, wrapper a 12cmUsing square. Using a 9cm round ½ lemongrass stalk, cutter, cutcutter, each wrapper into a round, then thinly sliced cut each wrapper into a round, then thinly sliced lightly press intopress a greased muffin pan. turmeric, turmeric, chopped chopped lightly into amini greased mini muffin 2cm-piece pan. 2cm-piece Bake for 5Bake minutes until crisp and crisp golden. or ½ tsp ground turmeric for 5 or minutes or until and golden. or ½ tsp ground turmeric 2 To make sauce, blend chillies, 1 tsp dried1 shrimp paste (belacan)* 2 chilli To make chilli sauce, blendginger chillies, ginger tsp dried shrimp paste (belacan)*

BABI SIOH BABI SIOH STEWEDSTEWED PORK WITH SHIITAKE PORK WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS & BROWN BEAN PASTE MUSHROOMS & BROWN BEAN PASTE

Serves 6 Serves as part6of banquet asapart of a banquet

2 tbs coriander seeds or 1½ tbs ground coriander 2 tbs coriander seeds or 1½ tbs ground coriander 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 onion, roughly chopped 5 garlic cloves, roughly 5 garlic cloves,chopped roughly chopped 80ml (⅓ cup) oil 80mlvegetable (⅓ cup) vegetable oil 1½ tbs soy1½ bean paste (taucheo)* tbs soy bean paste (taucheo)* or dark miso or dark miso 500g spare ribs* or pork belly, 500g spare ribs* or pork belly, cut into 2cm cut pieces into 2cm pieces 5 dried shiitake soaked in soaked hot 5 driedmushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, in hot water for 20 minutes, stems removed, halved halved water for 20 minutes, stems removed, 1 tbs dark1soy tbssauce dark soy sauce 1 cinnamon quill 1 cinnamon quill 1 tbs tamarind concentrate* 1 tbs tamarind concentrate* 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp sugar CorianderCoriander leaves and steamed to serve leaves and rice, steamed rice, to serve

and garlicand with 125ml water in awater blender garlic with 125ml in atoblender to a smooth apaste. Transfer a bowl.toAdd sugar, Place banana in aleaves saucepan of boilingof boiling smooth paste. to Transfer a bowl. Add 1sugar, banana in a saucepan 1 Placeleaves tomato sauce, lemon juice and juice ½ tspand salt,½and water 5 minutes until softened. Refresh Refresh seeds in aseeds fryinginpan over pan over 1 Place coriander tomato sauce, lemon tsp salt, and for water for 5 or minutes or until softened. a frying 1 Place coriander stir until stir combined and sugar has dissolved. leaves in a bowl of iced water. Drain on paper low heat and toast for 2 minutes or until until combined and sugar has dissolved. leaves in a bowl of iced water. Drain on paper low heat and toast for 2 minutes or until Refrigerate until needed. 1 cup. set aside. fragrant. Using a mortar pestle, grind Refrigerate untilMakes needed. Makes 1 cup. towel andtowel and set aside. fragrant. Using and a mortar and pestle, grind coriandercoriander seeds, 1 tbs at a time, toaatime, very to a very 3 To make heat 1 tspheat oil in1 tsp a wok To make2 spice paste, process ingredients seeds, 1 tbs at 3 filling, To make filling, oil over in a wok 2over To make spice paste,allprocess all ingredients fine powder. aside.Set aside. low heat. low Addheat. the prawns stir-fry forstir-fry forand 1 tbs water in awater food in processor to a smooth fineSet powder. Add theand prawns and and 1 tbs a food processor to a smooth 4 minutes4 or until just cooked. Transfer to paste, adding more water if necessary. Transfer 2 Process onion and garlicand in agarlic food in processor minutes or until just cooked. Transfer to paste, adding more water if necessary. Transfer 2 Process onion a food processor a bowl and set aside. Return wok over low to a large bowl, add ¼ tsp salt, egg and kaffir to a smooth paste. Heat oil in a wok over a bowl and set aside. Return wok over low to a large bowl, add ¼ tsp salt, egg and kaffir to a smooth paste. Heat oil in a wok over heat, add heat, remaining 1 tsp oil and garlic lime leaves andleaves stir until Add fish, Addmedium heat and cook pastecook for 5paste minutes add remaining 1 tspcook oil and cook garlic lime and combined. stir until combined. fish, medium heat and for 5 minutes FEAST 53

FEAST 53


CELEBRATE CELEBRATE This glutinous rice This glutinous rice dessert (kuih seri muka) dessert (kuih seri muka) was also served as was also served as part of the feast. part of the feast.

Sago gula Melaka (chilled Sago gula Melaka (chilled sago with palm sugar syrup), sago with palm sugar syrup), recipe opposite recipe opposite

54 FEAST

54 FEAST

Gulai tumis ikan (hot Gulai tumis ikan (hot and sour fish curry), and sour fish curry), recipe opposite recipe opposite


CELEBRATE

or until fragrant. Add the soy bean paste and ground coriander, and cook for a further 2 minutes or until fragrant. 3 Stir in the pork, mushrooms, soy sauce, cinnamon, tamarind and 250ml water, and bring to the boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes or until pork is tender. Just before serving, add sugar and stir to dissolve, then season. Top with coriander leaves and serve with rice. * Taucheo is a Malaysian soy bean paste, available from Asian food shops. * Spare ribs do not contain a bone, whereas American-style pork ribs do. * Tamarind concentrate is available from selected supermarkets and Asian food shops.

GULAI TUMIS IKAN HOT AND SOUR FISH CURRY

RECIPES ALVIN TAN PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHEN WORDS KATRINA MEYNINK

Serves 4 60ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil 2 tbs tamarind concentrate (see note above) ¼ cup hot (Vietnamese) mint leaves* ¼ pineapple, cut into 3cm cubes 400g blue-eye cod (trevalla) fillet, cut into 4cm pieces 18 okra, trimmed Steamed rice, to serve Spice paste 4 large dried chillies, soaked in hot water for 10 minutes 4 long red chillies, sliced 1 small onion, roughly chopped 1 stalk lemongrass, white part only, thinly sliced 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 2 tsp dried shrimp paste (belacan; see note page 53) 4cm-piece turmeric, chopped or ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 To make spice paste, process all ingredients

with 1 tbs water in a food processor to a smooth paste, adding more water if necessary. 2 Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat and cook paste for 6 minutes or until aromatic and starting to brown, and the oil separates

from the paste. Add 375ml water, tamarind, mint and pineapple, and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low and cook for 2 minutes. Add fish and okra, and simmer for 5 minutes or until fish is just cooked. Season with ½ tsp salt. Serve with steamed rice. * Hot (Vietnamese) mint is available from Asian food shops and selected greengrocers.

KERABU JANTUNG PISANG BANANA BLOSSOM, PRAWN AND COCONUT SALAD Serves 4 as part of a banquet 1 (about 800g) banana blossom* 20g (¼ cup) desiccated coconut 150ml coconut milk 150g green prawns, peeled, cleaned, half the shells reserved 3 tsp lime or lemon juice 4 red Asian eschalots, thinly sliced 3 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced Sambal belacan 2 tbs dried shrimp paste (belacan; see note page 53) 5 long red chillies, sliced 1 To make sambal belacan, fry shrimp paste

in a wok, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, for 5 minutes or until dry and crumbly. Using a mortar and pestle, grind chillies and shrimp paste to a smooth paste. Set aside. 2 Peel and discard outer banana blossom layers until you reach soft white core, discarding immature bananas. Halve lengthwise. Blanch in boiling, salted water for 15 minutes or until soft. Drain and lightly squeeze to remove excess water. Thinly slice and set aside. 3 Toast coconut in a wok over low heat for 3 minutes or until light golden. Using a mortar and pestle, lightly grind coconut. Set aside. 4 Place coconut milk, 100ml water and ¼ tsp salt in a wok and bring to the boil. Add reserved prawn shells and cook for 2 minutes or until they turn pink. Strain mixture into a clean pan, discarding shells. Return to the boil, add prawns and simmer for 3 minutes or until just cooked. Set aside until lukewarm.

5 Add lime juice and the sambal belacan

to prawns and stir to combine. Add sliced banana blossom, eschalots, toasted coconut and sliced lime leaves, and stir to combine. Transfer to a plate to serve. * Banana blossoms are available from Asian food shops and selected greengrocers.

SAGO GULA MELAKA CHILLED SAGO WITH PALM SUGAR SYRUP Serves 6 You will need to soak the sago for 4 hours. 200g (1 cup) sago or tapioca pearls 1 egg white, lightly beaten 300ml coconut milk Palm sugar syrup 135g (½ cup) dark palm sugar (gula Melaka; see page 49), chopped 55g (¼ cup) white sugar 1 pandanus leaf*, torn in half lengthwise, tied in a knot 1 Place sago in a strainer and rinse under cold

running water until water runs clear. Transfer sago to a bowl and cover with water. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 4 hours. 2 To make sugar syrup, place all ingredients and 90ml water in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring continuously, for 7 minutes or until sugars have dissolved. Simmer for 2 minutes, then remove from heat and strain through a fine sieve. Cool. 3 Drain sago, place in a large pan of boiling, salted water, then reduce heat to low. Cook, stirring, for 6 minutes or until sago becomes transparent. Remove from heat and strain. Rinse in strainer under cold water until sago is clear of starch and cool enough to handle. Drain well. Transfer to a mixing bowl, add beaten egg white and stir to combine. 4 Divide mixture among 6 x ¾ cup moulds or Chinese tea cups. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour or until set. Turn out into bowls and serve with 2 tbs coconut milk and 2 tbs syrup, and extra to add as desired. * Available from Asian food shops. FEAST 55


$PGGFF$VQQJOH Seattle, a town known for its indie vibe, is also garnering a reputation in coffee appreciation, with the trend of ‘coffee cupping’ growing in cafes across town. Katrina Meynink investigates all things brown and beautiful in the world of coffee and the American west-coast culture of coffee brokers and roasters. WORDS Katrina Meynink IMAGES Annie McElwain

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Seattle, the home of Grey’s Anatomy and Sleepless in Seattle, offers so much more than exciting movie shooting locales. In this town, coffee is passion. I mean all-consuming, laser-focused fanaticism – a trend and physical enjoyment that is eye-opening and mouth-watering in equal measure. Here, coffee is savoured like a fine wine and the process of appreciation is equally relished by aficionados, via the intricate tasting process of coffee cupping. Coffee cupping is a quality control tool used in the coffee industry to determine the aromas and nuanced flavors from a selection of coffees. In this case, however, it’s all about appreciation: a coffee lover’s version of wine tasting. Cupping gives connoisseur patrons the chance to appreciate the dynamic and masterful nuances of the roaster’s evolving craft. It’s a sensual enjoyment of coffee, a shared appreciation for the complex craftsmanship that goes into our cup of morning joe. The cupping process was conceived as a means for evaluating and comparing different coffees on a level playing field. The process involves a range of smelling, tasting and touching techniques to determine the flavour profile of a coffee and understand the basic tastes, providing a critical base evaluation tool for something that changes from farm to farm, region country and crop. Because the differences between great coffees can be very delicate, observations about the characteristics such as flavour, body and finish can be easily influenced by small variations that occur as part of most brewing methods. By eliminating some of these variables, a carefully prepared cupping allows the coffees being tasted to compete on the basis of their own intrinsic merits.

Where to begin Cupping begins with samples of the green coffee (beans), roasted coffee and ground coffee. Although not essential, this allows you to judge the quality of the grade, smell the dry grounds – taking in big whiffs to note the aromas – and see the quality of the greens. Hot water is then poured on the grounds and the intensive smelling process is repeated. The grounds create a crust on top of the water, which is then broken and inhaled again. As the crust is broken, the grounds will seep to the bottom – the infused water (or coffee) is then tasted once the surface of the coffee infusion is clear of grinds. The tasting is usually conducted using a deep spoon (a soup spoon will do); tasters bring the spoon to their mouth, inhale deeply and suck powerfully to draw the coffee to the roof of the mouth – to tickle the tongue – and then fall into the back of the mouth. This creates a coffee vapour to stimulate that part of your sense of taste, which is actually your sense of smell. Following this, the coffee is rolled around the mouth and the taster can begin to look for flavours to compare it to. According to Geoff Watts, a boutique coffee roaster and one of the originators of coffee cupping, true understanding of coffee is developed through the act of comparison. “Learning to talk about the character of a coffee from a particular origin requires that one have some frame of reference, and if the goal is to figure out what makes a coffee from Kenya great it is important to know what makes it different than other coffees. In other words, what does it mean to taste like a ‘Kenya’? What tastes distinguish a Guatemalan coffee from a Nicaraguan?” says Geoff. “By evaluating coffees in a comparative setting and with an inquisitive, reflective approach one can learn to identify the most essential flavor traits of coffees from different


origins.� The goal, as Geoff describes it, should be to build solid reference tools of flavours that can then become a background against which one can examine new coffees. “Over time a cupper will begin to associate particular flavours with geographical regions and different botanical varieties of coffee. Eventually, a phrase like ‘this tastes like a bourbon from the Santa Ana region in El Salvador’ can have some real meaning,� Geoff explains. “It is important to remember, though, that dogma has no place in coffee tasting. Every time I think I’ve got a region figured out, a coffee comes along that shatters my expectations. Keeping an open mind and sense of curiosity is absolutely essential to becoming an accomplished taster.� Perhaps then, the true point of cupping amidst all the slurping and the sniffing is to unlearn what you know. Many of us have the same ‘gold standard’ for coffee, an espresso, which is akin to measuring all wine against Bordeaux. Coffee can be rich and dark like espresso, but it can also be light and citrusy, or fruity and round; it sometimes tastes like chocolate and leather, and sometimes like berries and jasmine. Cupping is a one-two step: to shelve our preconceived notions of how coffee should taste, then open ourselves to the possibilities of how coffee might taste. And better yet, the process is simple enough to try at home and build a knowledge of coffee and the nuances of taste. Just remember to taste then spit – after 12-18 coffees (the usual number for a cupping session) even a die-hard caffeine addict will start to feel the effects.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN COFFEE CUPPING Fragrance of dry grounds t%PFTJUTNFMMGSFTI %PFTJUTNFMMTUBMF  Over-roasted? Under-roasted? Is it sweet or perhaps nutty in smell? Fragrance of wet grounds t)PXEPFTJUTNFMMOPX 5IFXBUFSNJYJOH with the coffee and oxygen will produce a more intense smell than with the dry grounds. Acidity/Liveliness t4NFMMBOEUBTUFUIFDPGGFFGPSBDJEJUZ Acidity in coffee can be both friend and foe. In one way it can give liveliness and freshness

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to the flavour. But the downside is that it can appear sour and bitter. Coffee without acidity is lifeless, but too much and the flavour can be off-putting. Body t)PXEPFTUIFDPGGFFGFFMJOZPVSNPVUI  Assessing the body of a coffee is evaluating the fullness and richness of the mouthfeel. Flavour/depth t5IJTJTUIFGVOQBSU8IBUDBOZPVUBTUF‰ chocolate, tobacco, berries? There is no right or wrong answer; the important thing is to be able to describe what you taste. Sounds easy, but it might be harder than you think. Finish t8IBUEPFTUIFDPGGFFMFBWFJOZPVSNPVUI when you have finished? Aftertaste is a very important part of the cup. Try to gauge whether that aftertaste is sour, sweet, creamy‌

“Perhaps then, the true point of cupping amidst all the slurping and the sniffing is to unlearn what you know. Many of us have the same ‘gold standard’ for coffee, an espresso, which is akin to measuring all wine against Bordeaux.�


TDPSFDBSE Coffee & Type

Coffee & Type

Coffee & Type

Coffee & Type

Aroma Comments

Aroma Comments

Aroma Comments

Aroma Comments

Try using the scorecard and conducting your own coffee cupping experience. Invite some friends over, make some beautiful canneles, those delectable French pastries that partner perfectly with coffee, and make an occasion of it! Acidity

Flavour

Mouthfeel

Aftertaste

Acidity

Flavour

Mouthfeel

Aftertaste

Acidity

Flavour

Mouthfeel

Aftertaste

Acidity

Flavour

Mouthfeel

Aftertaste

Balance, Overall Notes

Score + 50

Balance, Overall Notes

Score + 50

Balance, Overall Notes

Score + 50

Balance, Overall Notes

Score + 50

Cupping Notes: s3COREAROMA ACIDITY mAVOUR MOUTHFEEL ANDAFTERTASTEFROMTO s!DDTOTHESCORE THENADDORREMOVEUPTO@CUPPERSPOINTSINTHElNALBOX4HISALLOWSAlNALRATINGTHATFOLLOWSTHETRADITIONALSCHOLASTICGRADINGPROCESSFOREXAMPLE  !  "  # s)TSIMPORTANTTONOTETHATYOUDONTNEEDASCORETOUNDERSTANDCOFFEE3OMEARGUETHATTHENUMERICALRATINGPROCESSREDUCESACOFFEETOTHESUMOFITSPARTSANDYOUENDUP MISSINGSOMEOFTHESTORYALONGTHEWAY4OTHATEND WEVEINCLUDEDEXTRASPACESOYOUCANNOTESPECIlCCOMMENTSABOUTTHECOFFEE4HEMOSTIMPORTANTTHINGISTOEVALUATE and document what you taste and smell.

$BOOFMFT are traditionally made in specially fluted copper moulds lined with beeswax, but they are equally tasty made in a silicon mould and you can still achieve that textural crunch and warm inner hearts. There are numerous versions of this recipe, and this is mine. I have tried many a version and had my greatest success with this. ½ litre full fat milk 50g butter ½ vanilla bean a pinch of salt 2 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks 1 tbsp rum 100g flour 250g granulated sugar > Bring the milk, butter and vanilla bean to a boil in a saucepan over medium to high heat. While the milk mixture is heating, mix the flour, sugar and the eggs in a bowl. Remove the milk from heat and pour into the bowl. Stir slowly to obtain a liquid pastry. At this

point the mixture will react in a similar fashion to a bÊchamel sauce until it has the same sort of texture as pancakes. Let it cool and add the rum. Place in the refrigerator for at least an hour (best overnight). > Preheat the oven to 270°C. Pour batter into greased moulds (about half full) and cook for five minutes. Turn the heat to 180°C and continue to cook for an hour. > Remove from moulds while they are still hot. To serve Serve canneles with a cup of your favourite brew. They are best eaten once slightly cool, allowing the outer crust to harden, although this delightful little pastry can be eaten hot or cold. Tip t:PVDBOJODSFBTFUIFBNPVOUPGSVNJO this recipe (up to 80ml) depending on your preferred flavour. t6TFBDBOOFMFNPVMEPSNJOJCVOEUUJOT moulds for this recipe.

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