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Volume 33, No.31

September 6, 2013

S tat e O f T h e I n s t i t u t e A d d r e ss : A S t u d e n t P e r sp e c t i v e

BY: Scott Schetselaar, AOS Culinary Wednesday, Aug. 28, In President Ryan’s State of the Institute Address for students, hot topics included the Bocuse restaurant, Thomas Keller Day, the CIA Leadership awards, as well as the construction of new facilities and the expansion of the curriculum at all Culinary Institute of America campuses. The address was also followed by a Q&A session where students were able to voice concerns and ask questions about the Institute. One of the most current issues addressed by Dr. Ryan was the construction happening around the Hyde Park campus. Construction is progressing steadily on the Marriot Pavilion, a conference center which is scheduled to be completed in late fall. According to Dr. Ryan, the facility will allow the Institute to create an “East Coast Flagship.” The Menus of Change conference, which brings industry leaders together to explore ways to produce healthier food previously had to be held off campus. This conference is now one of many events that are being planned for the facility. In a later interview, Dr. Ryan explained, “The Marriot Pavilion will provide us with a completely new opportunity to integrate students into those conferences.” The addition will allow the school to accommodate not only conferences but also special events and graduation ceremonies. Construction will also begin soon on the Student Recreation Center, or SRC. As part of the facility’s planned expansion, the high volume production kitchen, currently located in K16 will be moved into the SRC along with a re-branded Courtside Café. As part of the expanding Bachelor’s program, a functioning micro-brewery will be built with the help of Brooklyn Brewery. The idea of a concept kitchen is being considered as well, where entrepreneurial classes can be taught. Plans for the new SRC also include a marketplace, where students will be able to buy groceries, along with significantly larger fitness facilities. Construction is expected to take eighteen months. In addition to the expansion of the S.R.C, a new section will be added to house student services. This section of the building will also be the home of a rooftop garden. Dr. Ryan also spoke of this year’s opening of the Bocuse restaurant. Dr. Ryan gave a brief history of the location, showing pictures of what used to be the epicurean grill and later the Escoffier restaurant. The name and theme for the restaurant were chosen to celebrate Chef Paul Bocuse’s extraordinary impact on the industry, sparking a culinary revolution. The sentiment was described by Dr. Ryan: “Paul Bocuse demonstrated that chefs are innovators,…He popularized the notion of the chef-owner,… and elevated the profile to celebrity,… Culinary Culture

because of those reasons, he had done more to advance the culinary profession than anyone in history.” Years of planning went into the creation of the restaurant and there was much fanfare associated with it’s opening, which hosted Chef Bocuse on his 87th birthday. Chefs and restaurateurs such as Daniel Boloud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Charlie Palmer, and Thomas Keller all attended the event. Another topic was the first ever Thomas Keller day, which took place on May 9th. Dr. Ryan touched on the highlights of the event, which started with an address

Goldsbury, former President of Pace Salsa, who funded the entire construction and operation of the San Antonio campus. Students also heard about the Institute’s Singapore campus, which is funded entirely by the Singaporean Government. The City-State, known for its extraordinary food is also funding the expansion of the campus, with new buildings and programs. In the midst of expansion, the campus hosts the Worlds of Health and Wellness conference and also recently celebrated its first Bachelor’s Program graduation. Dr. Ryan also discussed long term renovation and expansion projects for the Hyde Park campus. One goal is the renovation of existing dormitories and construction of new ones, and the construction of an underground parking structure into the hill in front of the SRC. Dr. Ryan also spoke about the construction of a new culinary wing which would attach to Roth Hall’s western side and extend into what is now the “graveyard” parking lot. The possibility of a hotel being built was also mentioned, with animation showing a structure north of the school, along the Hudson River. Following Dr. Ryan’s address, he opened up the f loor for a Q&A session. Students expressed concerns with regard to issues such as curriculum changes, admissions standards, and financial aid, among others. With respect to the issue of curriculum change, Dr. Ryan exPhoto Credit: Scott Schetselaar plained that since the curriculum by Chef Keller, and progressed into presentations by changes took place, the number of students who are guests such as Chef/Restaurateur Grant Achatz of Alin- succeeding post externship has increased; rationalizing ea and many of Chef Keller’s purveyors and staff. The that the change is producing students better prepared day culminated with a play entitled “Sense of Urgency,” to go into the industry. He also explained that admiswhich portrayed a night in the kitchen at Chef Keller’s sions requirements had only changed to accommodate renowned Yountville, CA restaurant, The French Laun- those who had experience in a front of house capacity. dry. Given that many graduates are offered opportunities in Dr. Ryan also included highlights from events hap- a front of house capacity, it made sense for the school pening at the CIA’s other campuses. For the school’s to accept those applicants who hoped to further their California location at Greystone, he spoke of the education in this area. For the issue of financial aid, Dr. Worlds of Flavor conference, which brings not just culi- Ryan gave figures that financial assets allocated toward nary professionals, but also medical professionals from scholarships and financial aid had increased by several around the world together to discuss trends in the in- million dollars. dustry. Last year’s conference was focused on f lavors Dr. Ryan ended by thanking the audience for atpopular from the Mediterranean to Asia, and this year’s tending, encouraging students to participate in meetconference will be focused on Information Technology, ings with faculty, and also reassuring the students that Creativity, Culinary Science, and Millennial Appetites. the faculty is there to work with them towards their Interesting things are happening at the San Antonio success. In a later interview, Dr. Ryan expanded on campus as well. President Ryan spoke on the opening this by speaking of the Degree Programs Operating of the Nao Restaurant and it’s experimentation with Council (DPOC) headed by Provost Mark Erickson and Latin Flavors, including native recipes from centuries staffed by several department heads. By the creation past. The campus hosts a Latin Cuisines semester away of programs such as this, and a commitment to work program for Bachelors students and has become the more closely with the Student Government, he is conhome of the Latin Flavors, American Kitchens confer- fident that students and faculty will be able to work ence. Dr. Ryan also expressed gratitude on behalf of together more efficiently to address any concerns that the school for the contributions of philanthropist Kit might arise.



Gazebos And Social Spaces

P 8-9

Label Lore with Steven Kolpan

Back In Time : The CIA ON CAMPUS

P 4-5


Ball Jar Part 2

P 6-7


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All in Good Taste...




September 6, 2013


The Student Affairs Division


Stephanie M. Kirkland


Christian Berry

ADVERTISING MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS Scott Schetselaar Chef Fred Brash Daniel Jaroz Marie Jenkins Connor White Anna Ungricht

Sue Haug

Brianna Gross Sayat Ozymilaz Jason Ball Steven Kolpan

Ruth Sabath Rosenthal

Giulianna Galiano Amy Zarichnak


La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.


As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

This coming weekend, I’m headed to work at the Hudson Valley Food and Wine Festival. Exciting stuff. But really, for someone who wants to get more into our areas surrounding vineyards and culture, it’s a great opportunity. I will be having the pleasure to be pouring for Buttonwood Grove Winery. I did my research. The winery is nestled in the hills of the surrounding Cayuga Lake, and considered to be in the group of Finger Lake wineries and are award winners in their own right. They even have cabins on premises, next to their winery and tasting room available for renting; just in case you want the complete experience. There are outdoor grills and all. Convinced? Me too. Part winery, part camp ground? Let’s do it. But they do have wines right? Of course and all wines are reasonably priced from $7.49 to $24.99. Their vineyard produces classic European grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon; in case you were wondering. This is only relevant is you still weren’t caught up by the fact that these cabins overlook the lake and can accommodate either two to four people, depending which cabin you choose. Featuring hundreds of wines from all over New York state, the Hudson Valley Food and Wine Fest boasts wine seminars and food demonstrations, as well as over a hundred venders offering artisanal foods and carious crafts and home-good booths. I was there last year, and honestly, the best way I can describe it is if Sam’s Club or Cosco were to have a wine/ booze child, this is what it would like. Samples everywhere and people wear their tasting glasses from their necks like necklaces. It’s incredible and awful all at the same time. I even talked to people last year from the tri state area, and others who had made an eight hour trek to see what all the hype was about. Naturally, they walked away at the end of the day with multiple cases of their preferred poison. Happily awaiting the end of the eight hour road trip back, I’m sure, just so they can finally open a bottle. What makes this festival even more attractive to the many ticket holders who buy cases and cases of many different wines every year are the many grape growers and wine makers will be in attendance. Rare is it that all aspects of the wine and beverage business in general, will all be at taster’s disposal. Not only do vendors have a chance to connect with buyers on what they may like about a certain wine, and dislike about the next, it really gives buyers the opportunity to pick and choose which winery to check out, without having to drive all over the state to do it. I feel like New York is competitive though with their wines and wineries because it is such a select group. I’m looking forward to chatting it up with Buttonwood Grove on their practices and what it really takes to be a competitor in the industry they find themselves in. Palates differ all over the world and I’m curious too as to what their best-selling wines are, and why they think that is. Diane and Ken, the owners of Buttonwood Grove, really don’t know what they’re getting themselves into with me helping them. Do light and easy “patio pounders,” as Professor Weiss would put it, sell better or more sophisticated reds that would pair nicely with an equally exquisite dinner? I need to know. And honestly I am not so sure as what the answer will be. With the exception of the people who need to try a different wine every time, as opposed to those who have a tried and true favorite that they “think” goes with every dish they make, I would like to know the favorite. There may be only two types of people, wine drinkers, and wine lovers. But really, what everyone wants is good wine. I’m not even convinced that it has anything to do with specific varietal or winery for these people. I am expecting a rowdy group. I get it. Everyone wants the best deal, wants to take advantage of the ‘buy two, get one free’ deal, call it a day, drink, and be merry. Three booths into it and who, in the general public, can really discern notes of oak and mushrooms in one, to stainless steel and citrus in another? It should be entertaining at least if not educational. And I am looking forward to it all. As always, stay hungry. Stephanie Kirkland


La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at


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Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

Christian Berry (Layout Editor)


Alicia Yandell (Copy Editor)


September 6, 2013


F reddy B’ s F riends C ontinue : C hef D ellerose

BY: Chef Freddy Brash, Chef Instructor I know Chef Dellerose from the many conversations that we have when I bring him vegetables from my class or garden. Chef is a humble man; what I like most is he allows students to bring in ideas to the kitchen that he will oversee, but at the same time, he gives students a sense of ownership. In addition, Paul’s family is super important to him as you will see in this article. I really respect that.

Chef Dellerose: For as long as I could remember, I always wanted to cook… I was born the son of an Italian immigrant, a poor butcher who ran a modest neighborhood butcher shop in the Bronx. My mother was an Italian American home maker. I was one of four children. To say that food was an integral part of our life would be an understatement; we were surrounded by quality food products continuously, we grew a garden, made our own bread, cheese, pasta and even wine. We canned roughly 450500 mason jars of tomato sauce a year, generally around this time when the tomatoes were in the height of the season and plentiful, a tradition we still practice today. While in high school, I worked at a deli/off site catering company doing just about whatever they needed me to do. I also worked as a prep/line cook in a friend’s family restaurant. After I graduated high school, I worked as an apprentice butcher for my father. I did that for about two years before realizing it wasn’t what I really wanted to do, however, in hindsight, it was an invaluable experience. I enrolled and was accepted to the CIA and started July of 1992 at the tender age of 21, and a recent newlywed. I was quickly engulfed in my surroundings. Working as hard as I could at learning while taking advantage of my surroundings, I joined various clubs and attended

T he

as many demos as I could. I was an extern at the Sands Hotel and Casino in Atlantic City, New Jersey. I graduated AOS on March 3, 1994 and never looked back.

Photo Credit: CIA I worked my way through various positions, mainly in Hotels in New York City at first. I was Chef Commis at the Waldorf Astoria under Chef John Doherty, the Sous Chef at Etrusca, the fine dining restaurant at the New York Hilton with Chef Carmine Marletta, a personal friend and mentor. I also worked as the Banquet and Executive Sous Chef at the Millennium Hilton and Ex-

ecutive Chef at the Tarrytown Hilton before venturing to open my own restaurant on the banks of the Hudson River in Rockland County, New York. Perhaps one of my favorite positions was as a corporate/consulting chef for a third party hotel management company based out of Kennesaw, Georgia. We managed and operated hotels under many different flags across the country. I was part of a team that did due diligence on properties that we were going to either take over or purchase. It was a great position that allowed me to travel quite a bit. Although traveling was fun and I got to see a lot of the country, it presented a challenge to me personally as a husband and parent of 2 young children at the time. That’s when a friend encouraged me to apply for a position here at school. I was living in Kentucky, working on a multi-million dollar property renovation when I got the call that I was given a chance to interview. I drove back and forth about four times for a series of interviews, cooking and presentation practicals. Chef Mattel, my friend and mentor, helped me to navigate through the sometimes laborious process and for that I am grateful. I was offered a position and started on July 31, 2007. Since that time, I have continued to learn and grow both as a culinarian and an educator; I guess working with the largest collection of talented professionals will do that to you. Returning to the school has single handedly been the best professional move of my life. I must admit that I took this job mainly for selfish personal reasons not fully understanding how greatly my life would be impacted from working in a place like this. Furthermore, I realized how I would be able to help shape the future of our industry by sharing my craft with those who are willing to take it. Talk about a sense of accomplishment.

B ack in T ime : C ulinary I nstitute of A merica

BY: Daniel Jaroz, BPS Cu;inary

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of cooking schools out there. Dozens are located in the city that never sleeps. During my senior in high school I, like many students, got hit by a wave of uncertainty due to the overwhelming number of culinary schools to choose from. There is The French Culinary Institute, The Art Institute, California Culinary Academy, New England Culinary Institute, Institute of Culinary Education, Le Cordon Blue, and of course our unspoken rival, Johnson and Wales. However, this is not even a fraction of the diverse cooking schools out there, which all have a little something different to offer. Some schools are more or less petite, extravagant, or prestigious than others, but all are considered to be food extravaganzas. Yet the number one ranking cooking school in the world is The Culinary Institute of America. Hello, it is the world’s premiere culinary college….. Did you know The Culinary Institute of America was founded in 1946 in New Haven, Connecticut with fifty World War II veterans, one chef, one baker, and one nutritionist? It was originally called the New Haven Restaurant Institute but after a few years it adopted C.I.A. In 1972, Saint Andrews on the Hudson ( Jesuit Seminary) and Our Lady of the Way Chapel were purchased for one million dollars by The Culinary Institute of America. Through the years the campus has been renovated and updated, except for the historic chapel, which has been around since the 1900’s. Today our gorgeous campus is an extraordinary tourist attraction, “Disney World,” as many claim. Behind the three letters there is a worthy reputation and an

intriguing history. Guess what, The John Cunning Company of Connecticut (what a tongue twister) renovated Farquharson Hall. Indeed, this elegant main dining room resembles a religious chapel or, better yet, the dining room from Harry Potter as some people say. Instantaneously, you may notice the religious windows and paintings which definitely show off our Jesuit Seminary roots. In this single room all the action takes place: graduation, buffets, weekend events, and indulgence. Did you know the C.I.A. has forty one kitchens and bakeshops, including the restaurants? Everywhere you look there is mouth-watering food that is being cranked out from kitchens filled with passionate, driven, and creative students. Some days I feel like I am in France because of the authentic and classical French dishes and, of course, the French Chefs. One thing’s for sure, our efforts and progress is certainly making Escoffier and Careme proud! Have you ever wondered why the school can also be called the C.I.A.? Well The Culinary Institute of America existed before the actual Central Intelligence Agency. Again, in 1946 our two founders, Frances Roth and Katherine Angell, put together the best of both worlds: baking and pastry and culinary arts. The Culinary Institute of America is the oldest cooking school in United States, the only residential college in the world devoted to culinary education, and ultimately the place where serious chefs are born. I even find the phrase “C.I.A.” to be rather fun to say. However, when I think of “C.I.A.,” I immediately think of secret agents fighting bad guys. But honestly am I

the only one? Students do scan in and out of buildings with slick ID’s, like C.I.A. agents, nonetheless it’s quite the opposite here in Hyde Park, New York. In some senses, campus safety is the secret service that is connected to all cameras and even monitors swipes. Luckily, safety makes us one of the safest college campuses around, so thank you! No doubt about it, The Culinary Institute of America is closely related to Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. Literally, everywhere you look there is food present, but I am not complaining! There is edible landscape throughout the many acres of land. There are strawberries, herbs, and vegetables, to name a few. How awesome is that? I call this paradise for culinarians and bakers, or heck, I call it Flavor Town. So everyone stay hungry and stay curious about food because this is an industry where you never stop learning and eating. There may have been fifty students back then, but today our student body consists of roughly 2,800 students. Let’s not forget the remarkable and talented staff, which consists of more than one hundred twenty six faculty and from them represent approximately sixteen countries all over the world. Together, our student body and faculty represent diversity and excellence. Last but not least, there are more than thirty thousand alumni that have graduated from this premier culinary college. This school would not be the same if it was not for the faculty and staff. So a big shout out and thank you to everyone who makes this culinary college number one!



G azebos

BY:Marie Jenkins, AOS Culinary

Recently, the large oblong gazebo popularly referred to as “the boat” was dismantled and removed from campus. The Institute’s administration stated this was done in response to an incident in which a student set the boat ablaze. It was reported that the boat had sustained damage and was soaked in petroleum and was thus deemed to be a hazard. The boat was also the frequent site of repeated incidents of what was deemed “unprofessional behavior” by the Institute , i.e. general rabble-rousing. As a result of the escalation of events, it was announced that the boat would not be replaced and the administration is now said to be carefully considering the fate of all the remaining smoking gazebos. There has been mixed reaction among the student body about the removal of the boat and the fate of the gazebos in general. Some bemoan the loss of the boat while others are more than happy to see it go. Still others relegate it to a problem for smokers only. Yet whether the gazebos stay or go really doesn’t matter in the long run as the issues associated with them are merely the symptom of a larger problem on campus which remains unaddressed. Plainly stated, the real problem surrounding the boat is the complete lack of communal social space on campus during the late night hours. In the boat’s absence these issues surrounding it haven’t dissipated, they have simply relocated. The weekend after the boat was removed the Institute still had to deal with the problem of a large group of students gathering outside. In the days since there has been a number of complaints about noise late into the night emanating from the remaining gazebos as students naturally move their gatherings to the next available space. Indeed even as I write this article tonight, I can hear a rather boisterous group of students merrily socializing outside. But really, if not the gazebos or lawns around the dorms where else can the students go? Students are left with only a


S ocial S paces

few other places on campus, namely the dorms or the wooded areas around the campus and neither are represent very good options. Due to student’s widely varying schedules, the dorms have a strict but necessary limit on noise levels and thus gatherings of people not to mention the restricted access to the buildings during the times in question. As for the areas surrounding the campus, they are dark and full of Lyme carrying ticks to say the least.

they have adequate space to do so. However, this is clearly not the case at the Culinary. The boat had served in place of these venues, it was an area were smokers and non-smokers alike would drop by to visit, gossip, catch-up with friends among other things. Those who have cars, or friends with cars, might find places off campus to hang out but the rest are left with few options. There are simply no sanctioned after hours communal social spaces on campus and as long as this remains true we will continue to have the same problems, with or without the presence of the gazebos. At the recent State of the Institute address President Ryan outlined for students the administration’s plan for improving the Institute. In terms of campus infrastructure and education it seems to be quite ambitious. A new culinary wing, a renovation to Roth and the dorms, new focuses for students in the BPS program, additional specialized garden space on campus, a large centrally located student parking deck, a vastly expanded Student Rec Center, etc. However, the only mention of any social spaces for students outside normal operating hours would be the bar of the hotel that may possibly be built on campus land. Even that would only have limited usefulness for students since only those who are of legal drinking age and have the financial means would be able to utilize it. As it stands, there seem to be only two outcomes for our school’s social problem and neither will be easily dealt with for those involved. Either the school must continue to ramp up their efforts to rein in this “disorderly” student behavior at the gazebos or they will have to provide acceptable social spaces on campus for students to unwind socially at night. The way things have been going it seems like that unless students Photo Credit: In most colleges and universities students are band together and demand something be done to provided with an ample variety of after-hours social address this issue, the school will simply continue to outlets. They have fraternities, sororities, campus only address the symptoms and not the problems at clubs with their own dedicated spaces, twenty-four the detriment to the student population. hour student centers, or even businesses adjacent to the campus. So whether students want to party, have gaming marathons, or just chill with their friends

T he I ncoming S tudent P erspective

BY: Connor White, AOS Culinary

When I step foot on campus, I begin to feel an overwhelming rush of awe. The school’s architecture serves as a reminder of its history and early beginnings. The construction serves as a reminder of the constant need for change and reinvention. These surroundings remind me of my own experiences. We each have our own history and potential for a future. This food “Mecca” that is The Culinary Institute of America is my new home. From day one on campus there was such a controlled enthusiasm. In the culinary industry there is an expectation for creativity. However, the high expectation for reinvention is matched by an equally high expectation for success. Although I am not expected to be perfect from the beginning, I can’t help but fear failure. I don’t want to let my instructors, group mates, or even family down. The truth however is much deeper than that. I simply don’t want to let myself down. Many of us have made

significant sacrifices to get to this school. Each mistake will bring us that much closer to self-disappointment. If I’m sounding pessimistic than I suppose I’m only telling you half of my experience. Although each of us still has some uncertainty, we are each being put in a position where each of our talents can be truly refined. For many of the incoming students, this is a first. We each have had some sort of background in culinary, some having more than others, but we are all blank slates. We all can become whatever want. We simply have to make it so. To me, that is what is so refreshing about being in the position that I am in. If I want to become something great than I can. To do so I just have to work harder than everyone else. Some of the little things about this school seem to be so magical. Each time I step foot into Roth Hall I feel as if I’m watching my future. In a matter

of months I will be preparing the stunning meals that I am eating every day now at the K-16, Mediterranean, Asian, or even Modern Banquet kitchens. I peek into the kitchen windows of K-16 and Apple Pie Bakery as I pass by and a rush f lows through me; for just a moment all of my troubles and worries are surrendered. Each toss of a sauté pan or movement of a knife seems so planned, so purposeful. Finally, reality always comes slamming back to me and I have to move on to the next thing. However, each time I think back to those moments a little smile comes across my face. If it takes risk and sometimes failure to achieve the effortless perfection that goes on in those kitchens, then I can’t wait to risk. I can’t wait to fail. If that is what it takes to reach success I’ll let my worries melt away and except the possibilities. I am a new culinary student and I am ready to cook up my future.

September 6, 2013


C h a n g e s I n A pp l e P i e

BY: Anna Ungricht, AOS B&P

There have been a few changes at the Apple Pie Bakery. Chef Migoya is no longer in charge of the students making all the desserts; Chef Ballay is. This has had some students wondering what other changes have occurred. I wanted to find out for myself. Although the email list through the CIA main menu is outdated, and lists Chef Migoya, instead of Chef Ballay, I still emailed whom I thought would be there, hoping to get a response. One response later, and I set up an appointment. Unfortunately, the meeting never happened. For some reason, no one could get a hold of that person, and I only waited so long before I had to go to class. I did do a little research on Chef Ballay as well. He has been here since 2011 and has taught classes such as Advanced Pastry and Contemporary Cakes & Desserts. Before coming to the CIA, Chef Ballay worked in Connecticut at the Winvian Resort; Arizona at The Phoenician; Las Vegas at the Wynn Las Vegas and Le Cirque in Bellagio: in New York at Payard Patisserie and Bistro and Windows on the World; and in the French Polynesia at Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resort; as well as in France at B. Sauvetes. Chef Ballay received his Certificat d’Aptitude Professionelle from École Supérieure de Cuisine Française—Ferrandi in Paris. As I sat there, waiting on an interview that would never happen, I did observe what went on, the students in blue were busily helping people order, one was expe-

diting while many others were delivering food. Everyone was in constant motion, but still had friendly faces and positive attitudes. Even though the line was long, no one seemed to be waiting a long time. A couple of things happened in particularly that caught my attention. A couple sat down at the table behind me and eagerly waited for their food. While waiting, a student came over to make sure they were okay, and the wife was worried about her order because she was told it was the last one available. The student quickly went to the back and after a short time came back with bad news that the item was not available. The student offered an apology and an alternative, in which the couple accepted. I realize this situation probably happens regularly, but it still caught my attention, because of the genuine concern the student had for the couple and resolving the problem. The student was quick and friendly about it. I think as students we sometimes we forget this career choice is about customer service and making the customer want to come back. To see the students in the Apple Pie Bakery work with customers in mind was nice. The other experience I witnessed involved Chef Ballay himself. The bakery was extremely busy, and had a long line, but Chef Ballay came out and went to a table. I don’t know if he knew who was at the table or not, but my guess is that he did. After a few minutes he came walking by again, this time a cute little girl was with

him. He introduced her to the students and managers and also showed her what was in the display cases. The little girl was wide-eyed and took everything in as he was showing it to her. To me, it says a lot about a chef that is willing to leave a busy kitchen to come out and talk, and then show a little kid around and introduce them. I was impressed. When I usually want to stop in for a Spice Chai Latte, I decide to do it another time because the lines have been horrendously long, and I don’t give myself the amount of time to wait in line, and when I go back hours later, the line is still long. Also being broke, my choices are somewhat limited. The menu is in constant rotation, due to what is available and what is popular. Looking on the website I noticed, for the first time, the bakery offers specialty cakes. It does make sense, but neither I nor most of my classmates ever noticed for some reason. The macaroons are a constant, but the flavors are not. When I try new food, I usually try the unique items, the macaroons always satisfy that craving. Some of the current flavors include: Acacia Honey & Goat Cheese, Fig & red wine, Banana & Peanut Butter, Grapefruit, Pistachio & Amarena Cherry, and Kumquat. As new and old students, we should definitely take a little time to stop in the bakery and experience the atmosphere, the food, desserts, and the macaroons.

F ag B ug R ecap

BY: Brianna Gross, AOS Culinary Fag Bug. When we first started seeing signs for this event a few weeks ago there were a lot of double takes, a good amount of interest, and a few unavoidable snickers. But that’s the beauty of Fagbug, it’s not meant to be something that you can ignore or forget about. For those of you who missed out on seeing this inspiring symbol and meeting the college student that made it all happen, the story of the Fagbug started in 2011 in Albany, just an hour and a half from our campus, when Erin Davies car was vandalized for having a thin rainbow sticker on her back window. The words “fag” and “u r gay” were crudely scrawled across her VW beetle’s driver side and front window. In the few days it took for Erin to get an insurance agent in to look at her car, she noticed an overwhelming number of responses to the vandalism. It was the classic situation of people being shocked that hate crimes could happen in their town. With the encouragements of her friends and family, Erin courageously began to raise money and took her car cross country enlightening people to not only her hate crime,


but to pride parades and 5 different murders that happened to LGBT citizens for just being who they are. Now, some of you are probably thinking, Ok, that’s

all know that Auguste Escoffier brought a very militaristic discipline to the kitchen. Add that to the fact that this school was originally created to train returning veterans in the field, then out-side of professional restaurants we sometimes have a very masculine, male-dominated working environment where women are expected to be butch and deal with sexist jokes and men are expect to be ultra-masculine and crude. It’s easy it to let seemingly harmless jokes slide especially when we inevitably work with cooks who don’t take professionalism as seriously as we do at the CIA, but that’s exactly why we have to take a stand just as Erin did with the Fagbug. We are the future of the industry and thus it’s up to us to set the standards for what is acceptable in the kitchen and what is most certainly not. As part of the CIA it’s up to us to be the movers and shakers of the future so wake up and make a difference whether it’s helping the schools Gay Straight Alliance and SPICE to bring more events like this to the school, volunteering at the local soup kitchen with Photo Credit: Brianna Gross our Slow Foods Club or just speaking inspiring, but I’m a cook/baker, how is this related to out against hate in your kitchens and classes. With the the culinary field? One of the first things we learn at world at our finger tips, we owe it to ourselves to make The Culinary Institute of America is food history, so we it the best it can be.

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CIA C ommunity C ooking , C ompeting , A nd E ating A t T he H udson V alley R ib F est

BY: Sayat Ozymilaz, AOS Culinary

When I arrived at Ulster County Fairgrounds on Sunday, August 18, lines had already formed outside the Hudson Valley Rib Fest premises. Impatient and groggy folks in line were sipping coffee and stretching in anticipation of a day of amazing food that would stretch their ribs. Well, maybe I’m projecting a little here. They embraced the moment of rest before the storm of temptations – fried pickles, fresh doughnuts and, of course, all the slow-cooked, smoked, fall-off-the-bone, tender and juicy proteins-- came their way. Live country music studded with occasional rock tunes, cold beverages, bikes and bikers, barbecue competition as well as fair food vendors… Pure Americana, everything I could want on my only Sunday off in two months. I walked through the main stretch of vendors feeling somewhat harassed by the loud propaganda of the national guys with their horns, high flames and yelling and screaming cooks. Then my eyes caught Chef Mark Elia behind the counter confidently conducting his business right next to the loudest vendors on the fairgrounds. I was quickly distracted by a curious cup that one of Chef’s customers was walking away with before I even had a chance to exchange a couple words with Chef. It was a parfait – with a cherry on top. This is Chef Elia’s tongue-in-cheek humor manifesting itself in a humble solo cup. The mountain of food starts with sweet pulled pork, followed by coleslaw, brisket, barbecue sauce, mashed potatoes and more sauce. It’s topped with a babyback rib and a cherry tomato. What an indulgence that was!

Of course, other familiar faces were behind the counter as well. Ralph Chianese, the Meat Room Manager; Miranda Crenshaw, Meat Room MIT; Ryan Welshhon and Ed Zimmerman, two of my classmates. In the heat of the moment, Chef said, “This year [the team] kicked royal ‘American BBQ Ass.’ I never had a team that worked this smooth. A well-oiled machine.” Once I woke up from my parfait, Ryan directed me to the “Q” Crew – that’s the Culinary’s barbecue club. The vendors are separated from the competitors. As a vendor, Chef Elia couldn’t have competed even if he wanted to. He consulted the “Q” Crew as the club

their submissions but they also “Knew to have fun while all the mouth-watering flavor reactions were happening in the smoker,” Jason commented. Having worked in a barbecue shop in South Carolina, Gavin Short summarized his experience competing for the first time with a few words, “Where I’m from, we don’t do as much smoking, we just let the pork butt come to its full potential. There is more than one way to skin a cat. This weekend has been tremendously fun.” The brisket was nicely cooked, perfectly seasoned and infused with a generous amount of smoke. Among many members of the CIA community who made an appearance at the show was former instructor and Certified Master Chef, Olivier Andreini. When he stopped by the “Q” Crew stand, Chef Andreini expressed his pride in the initiative that Jason and team took to put their work in front of the judges. He was pleased with the brisket. . advisor. Members of the “Q” Crew Team Pride was the prominent theme that I observed The volleyball team showed up at the fair as well throughout the competition. When the team took out in guise of supporting their team member Britney Naucke. They had come for the ribs, of course. Britney, the brisket from the smoker for resting, everyone’s face was beaming with a satisfied smile. the secretary of the club, guarded the brisket all night. She wasn’t alone of course. The team consistent of eight aspiring BBQ-masters including Jason Fuller (president), Richard Longo (vice-president), Jake Bazzy (treasurer), Gavin Short, Jesse Schnupp, and Mark Pospischil. The “Q” Crew participated in two of the five categories. Prior to kickoff, Jason emphasized, “We want to make sure we do it right and don’t crash and burn.”

Mark chimed in humbly, “Our goal is to not be on the bottom of the list.” Though it was the first time any of the team members participated in a BBQ competition, they were able to out-compete almost half of the 50 competitors, which included a number of veteran participants. In the category of barbecue ribs, the team returned slightly more modest results. The week prior the team had run through several iterations of their rib and brisket submissions to find the right balance on their competition pieces. Of course, each trial called for an occasion and a celebration. The team took the contest seriously, they stayed focused on

Photos By: Sayat Ozymilaz Just as the competition team was wrapping up, crowds upon crowds of rib enthusiasts started lining up in front of Chef Elia’s stand. At the peak of the commotion, there were a dozen CIA students in Chef Elia’s line. Samantha Johnson, who was enjoying a welldeserved weekend off after her High Volume Cooking class, emphasized the joy of not having to worry about sauce on her face, “Everyone’s covered with it, everyone’s sticky.” As I was interviewing members of the volleyball team, Ryan called my name from behind the grill. Within minutes, I had an apron on and I was grilling, cutting and running Chef’s ribs to Ralph and Miranda. They came in waves and hit the line fairly hard. We finished them off – all 415 ribs were sold that weekend along with briskets and pulled pork. I might have only worked the grill only for two hours but it sure was an epic end to my Sunday!

September 6, 2013


T he B all J ar

BY: Jason Ball, BPS Culinary Science

Okay, a lot has been happening at the Ball Jar fermentation lab and office! Not really, but I did sweep, mop and take out the garbage this morning, so that counts. Otherwise, Derek Boccagno came by to pickle and ferment with us, and has joined the crew full time. He doesn’t listen to hip hop, but it’s ok. We are an equal opportunity employer, we just don’t pay well. Last week, I started a tapioca sourdough starter (pun not intended), but my girl’s cat (Oblio) knocked it over. On my desk! (Why was it on my desk? Because, I don’t know). But, it spilled all over my history of Asia class notes (because I only covered it with cheesecloth), bumming me out even more than if it had just spilled it onto the desk itself. I lost my notes, but my laptop was safe. You win some, you lose some. Either way, I didn’t get to taste it, but I can share the recipe. I basically just copped this idea from Sandor Katz, author of Wild Fermentation, but something tells me he’s probably down with that.

Note- this will be the last recipe that is not in grams. We have seen a few episodes of ‘The Wire,’ and are now familiar with the importance of a digital scale. Mostly though, Derek said something like, “Dude, we should be weighing this stuff out.” Duh.

TAPIOCA STARTER 6 cups cold water 1 cup tapioca 1 TBSP yeast (active dry) 2 cups cold water 3 cups flour METHOD 1.In a small stockpot, combine 6 cups cold water with 1 cup tapioca. Heat on medium/high heat, whisking constantly, for about five or six minutes. Until the liquid looks like ‘goop,’ literally. 2.Strain the mixture, reserving liquid. 3.To the strained liquid, add the yeast, water, and flour. Stir well. 4.Cover with cheese cloth (use a rubber-band around the edges), and store in a cool, dark place. 5.Stir often. *Katz uses yeast from organic fruit, instead of active dry yeast, when possible. I just didn’t have time to go to the market.

As I mentioned earlier, Derek Boccagno stopped by the Ball Jar fermentation lab (located in downtown Poughkeepsie) this week to pickle with us. After helping us realize that we should be using my scale, we worked on a few things. We started a ferment of cucumbers in a salted cucumber and hot pepper puree (instead of water). I’m curious what the cucumbers will taste like, but I am equally curious about what the liquid will taste like. At first, I was opposed to this because I thought that the cucumbers might not like being stuck in a jar with one of their bro’s all pureed up. Stupid thought, I know, but it was my first thought, I’m just being honest. You know? If you cut them all up and put them in water to ferment, they’re all probably like, “Sweet! We are going to taste good in a few weeks!” but now, the cucumbers in the jar are thinking, “Can you believe that asshole pureed Joey and Tim and didn’t even strain them?” Either way, it’s all happening.

Speaking of Sandor Katz, let me talk about his speech to the Culinary Science track, and various students a couple weeks ago. Listening to Sandor Katz speak was a lot of fun. And, inspiring, to say the least… I think what I liked most about him was that I could tell how much he likes to pickle and ferment food. Someone asked him about fermented eggs, and as he was mentioning somewhere he saw people use horse urine, he had this big smile on his face. Not too dissimilar to the face a child would make after they made cookies with their mom, and then saw them when they were finished. It was a curious smile that seemed to say, “Super-cool, right?” because he knew we thought it was super cool. I mean, Sandor Katz is really inspirational to me. When I first started to pickle and ferment things, I was intimidated. But Sandor writes in a very approachable way, and it’s really easy to follow along with him. If you don’t have his books, you should look into checking them out. As if that wasn’t enough of a treat, the following morning, Professor Hertz had Dr. Krasnow lecture our class on microbes. It was way cool. In fact, I felt like I should have paid for it. (That’s funny, because I technically did pay for it)But I mean, I feel like I should have paid for a ticket to the lecture or something. It was pretty exciting. Sandor and Dr. Krasnow back to back was rad, it reminded me of when I was a kid, and I watched ‘Bloodsport’ and ‘Timecop’ back to back. If you don’t understand that reference, I don’t know what to tell you, but the shit was real. Either way, these speakers really just got me excited for the curriculum of the Culinary Science track. Ok, moving onto some recipes. As I mentioned last article, I made a fermented chili paste a couple weeks back. I liked it. We have used it in a few recipes, and I have used it at home for ramen and spicy eggs, etc.

Homemade Goat Cheese, Salt Rubbed, Aging

Fermented Chile Paste 1 ½ cup dried arbol chiles 2 ea large garlic cloves 1 1” piece of ginger 1 TBSP salt 1 cup vinegar METHOD 1.Combine all ingredients in a jar, seal it. Leave out for 2-4 weeks, puree.

Here’s our recipe: Cucumbers fermenting in Cucumbers 250g cucumber, peeled 73g red pepper, seeded 100g salt 692g cucumbers METHOD 1.Puree salt, cucumbers, and peppers. 2.Wash and cut, cucumbers. 3.Jar and store at room temp. (Ours are dated 8/19, haven’t opened them yet) Note- we might add vinegar, or chili paste, or something… it just depends on how they taste. Next, we took some of that fermented chili paste and made a new batch of kimchi. Chili Paste Kimchi 680g napa cabbage 100g salt 50g fermented chili paste METHOD 1.Cut and wash cabbage. 2.Salt and bruise well. A good amount of liquid should come out of the cabbage. 3.Add the chili paste, mix thoroughly and jar. Unfortunately, that’s all for this week. We started to ferment some white peaches, and are planning on making some beer soon. We will write about it, and hopefully you will read about it. Otherwise, I just want to mention this documentary I just watched on Netflix called Happy People it’s about these dudes in Siberia that are trappers. It was really interesting, and it made me want to learn how to make a canoe, among other things. Check it out.

Mise En Place

Meet... Oblio




BY: Steven Kolpan, Professor and Chair, Wine Studies

a b e l

These days many consumers enjoy buying wine with labels that feature animals, such as kangaroos, penguins, fish, lizards, and loons. These “critter labels” don’t just happen by accident. Research has shown that American wine consumers are 40% more likely to buy a wine with a cute animal on the label when compared to a relatively straightforward wine label that gives the basic information: the name of the producer, the name of the grape, the name of the place where the vineyards are located, and the year in which the grapes were picked – the vintage.

It is the back label of this wine that really excites me, as it is filled with information about the pedigree of the wine in the bottle (and why it is worth $60 per bottle).

Whether we choose our wines based on the cute factor or on the basic label facts, most wine labels give us minimal information. Sometimes the back label of a wine is reserved for marketing the wine, and in the process of trying to hook the consumer with spinspiel, we learn a bit more about the origins of the wine and the philosophy of the producer. There is one wine producer in California whose back labels actually give us important information, and that is the Calera Wine Company, owned by Josh Jensen. Jensen specializes in single-vineyard Pinot Noir, and for the last 38 years his goal has been to create Burgundy in California. That is to say that Jensen wants to replicate the qualities of the great red Burgundies of France, which by law and custom are 100% Pinot Noir. Since 1975, Josh Jensen’s passion and obsession has been to create the finest Pinot Noir he can possibly make, and he does so in one of the most isolated viticultural regions in the United States. But what about the Calera label? Let’s take a look at the front label:

On the left hand side of the label we learn that the Mills Vineyard is 14.4 acres, and we see where the vineyard is located relative to the other Calera single vineyards. We also get some basic contact info for the Calera Wine Company (by the way, the website is terrific if you want to learn more about the winery, its vineyards, and its wines). But it is the right side of the label that makes this wine unique and provides a virtual tutorial in what it means to produce a true artisanal wine from vineyard to bottle. Let’s explore this label and see how it translates to what’s in the bottle.

Jensen’s front label is straightforward. Here’s what we know from reading it: The producer is Calera; the vintage is 2005 (Calera’s 30th vintage); the grapes were grown only in the Mills Vineyard; the varietal is Pinot Noir; the American Viticultural Area (AVA) , or officially designated wine region is Mt. Harlan. Here’s a few things we can’t tell by reading the front label: “Calera” is Spanish for “lime kiln,” which is a hint that the soils of the Mills Vineyard, much like the best vineyards in Burgundy, are rich in limestone; the Mills Vineyard is one of five single-vineyard limestone-based Pinot Noir sites (the others are the Selleck, Jensen, Reed, and Ryan vineyards). So in 2005, the Mills bottling was one of five single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines produced by Calera; and we also can’t tell by reading the front label that Josh Jensen’s Calera vineyards and winery is – and always has been – the only wine producer in the Mt. Harlan AVA. Here is a photo of the Mills Vineyard. Note the limestone outcroppings easily visible in the upper-right sections of the photo:

American Viticultural Area (AVA): Mt. Harlan Again, Josh Jensen’s Calera Wine Company is the only wine producer in this AVA, due to its extreme geographic isolation. Mountain Range: Gavilan Mountains Sometimes referred to as the Gabilan Mountains, Gavilan is Spanish for “hawk,” and red-tailed hawks are common to this mountain range, which is located on the border of Monterey and San Benito counties. The highest peaks in this mountain range are more than 3,000 feet. County: San Benito Region: California’s Central Coast This wine is not produced in Napa or Sonoma counties, or even in Sideways territory, Pinot Noir-rich Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties. San Benito County is not known for its wines, but it does have a few isolated wine regions, including the high-altitude, single-producer Mt. Harlan and Chalone AVAs. Predominant geology: Limestone After Josh Jensen returned from Burgundy in the early 1970s, he searched for limestone-rich soils for his Pinot Noir vineyards, and his search went on for years. Limestone is a rare soil type in California, which is blessed with a lot of overtly fertile loam and clay soils. Jensen was convinced if he was going to make a Pinot Noir as fine as Burgundy’s best, he could not do it without the terroir-defining limestone soils. Average Elevation: 2,200 feet above sea level So these vineyards are close to a half-mile in the sky, and are accessible only by tough-terrain vehicles. At this elevation, all picking in the vineyard must be done by hand. High-elevation, cool-climate vineyards enjoy the morning and afternoon sun to ripen grapes, and also enjoy cool nights that produce high acid levels in those grapes. High acidity in the finished wine makes you want to take another sip of wine, another bite of food. There is nothing worse in the world of wine than low-acid Pinot Noir. Vineyard location: 9 miles south of Hollister, 90 miles south of San Francisco, 25 miles east (inland) of Monterey/Carmel Hollister is a city of about 38,000 people, founded by farmers and ranchers, and is currently the most populous municipality in San Benito County. Owned by Calera Wine Company This may seem like an obvious and unimportant fact, but it is actually quite important. What this means is that since the winery owns the Mills Vineyard, this wine was made without any purchased grapes. The wine is estate-bottled, meaning that Calera owns the land, grew the grapes, and made the wine. The majority of wines in California are produced at least in part from purchased grapes. Number of vines: 10,575 (100% Pinot Noir) Vine Spacing: 6’x 10’ Vines per acre: 726 This is significant in that it speaks volumes about Josh Jensen’s approach to growing Pinot Noir. The total number of vines, the vine spacing, and the vines per acre indicate that Jensen believes in a more classic (Burgundian) planting regime, giving the vines plenty of room to grow, and plenty of room for vine roots to extend deep into the soil. By modern standards, which include close spacing of vines, 726 vines per acre is about one-third of what many growers

September 6, 2013




o r e

might plant (about 2,000 vines per acre is the modern norm). The relatively small amount of vines, coupled with excellent vineyard management, will provide a low yield in the vineyard, which is what Jensen wants: fewer berries, but more concentrated minerals, f lavors, and aromatics in each berry. Exposure of slope: South/Southwest These mountain vineyards are planted for maximum sun exposure throughout the day, helping to ensure steady and even ripening. Year planted: 1984 Rootstock: Own-rooted (Pinot Noir) Since the vintage of this wine is 2005, the vines were 21 years old at the time of harvest, meaning that the vines are mature, although they still have a long life ahead of them. Perhaps more important than their age is that these vines are planted on their own roots, not a selected rootstock. Ever since the plant louse phylloxera destroyed the vineyards of Europe and beyond at the turn of the 19th/20th centuries, about 90% of the commercial vineyards in the world have been planted on phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks (Australia and Chile being notable exceptions). Jensen is taking a risk here, but he must believe it is important for the vines of the Mills vineyard to be planted on their own roots (the other four Pinot Noir single-vineyards are all planted on various American rootstocks).

not defining it as an “oaky” California Pinot Noir. The wine has great structure and the aroma and taste of oak is delicate, almost a whisper of wood. Malo-lactic fermentation: 100% Nothing unusual; this is a given in red wine making (a choice in white wines). Malo-lactic fermentation is a secondary fermentation that changes harsh malic acid (think green apples) to smooth lactic acid (think milk) , and in the process lowers overall acidity in the wine. Filtration: None The wine is unfiltered. Jensen is one of a cadre of serious winemakers who believes that filtering wine strips it of essential f lavor, aromatics, and complexity. While the wine’s color may not achieve the brilliant luminescence so prized by so many consumers, the integrity in the wine is more than worth any slight haze in the color of the wine. Not all wines need to be unfiltered, but this wine benefits from Jensen’s non-interventionist approach.

The parentage of these vines is also an important issue for those of us who love fine Pinot Noir. The vines are said to be propagated from cuttings of the Pinot Noir vines of the Domaine Romanée Conti (DRC) , the most famous and revered vineyards in the Côte de Nuits region of Burgundy. Since smuggling these vine cuttings into California is technically a crime, Jensen will neither confirm nor deny the origins of his Pinot Noir vines, but those closest to him attest that the source of Calera Pinot Noir is, in fact, the DRC.

Too much information? Maybe. But I find it refreshing that Josh Jensen is so proud of his wine that he wants to share his pride, his passion, and his obsession with the people who are going to drink that wine. I wish that other wine producers who share that pride and passion might follow his lead. And what better place to do that than on the wine label?

19-year average crop yield (1987 through 2005) 1.30 tons per care (19.5 hectolitres of wine per hectare of vineyard) I must have read this label entry more than a hundred times, and each time I wonder, “could this be true?” It is. Jensen’s yield per acre is, in the world of commercial grape growing and winemaking, infinitesimal. Growers whose yields are normally in the three to five tons per acre range produce highquality wine; three tons per acre is considered an exceptionally low yield, especially in California. What this means is that each berry harvested in 2005 in the Mills Vineyard is precious for not only its varietal character but as a dramatic expression of its sense of place, its terroir. The metric terms above indicate that 1,950 liters (2,060 quarts) of wine is produced per hectare (2.47 acres). 2005 Mills Vineyard Harvest Data Dates of harvest: September 17-25, October 7 Obviously, fruit in the Mills Vineyard reached desirable ripeness levels at differing times, which is consistent with harvest dates from previous vintages. Tons harvested: 20.05 Tons per acre: 1.3 Again, the emphasis is on low yields, both in total tonnage and tons per acre. 2005 was a textbook vintage for the Mills Vineyard, yielding exactly the 19-year average crop yield in that vintage. Incidentally, in 2004, the yield was 1.28 tons per acre, but in 2006, a very wet year, the yield was 3.16 tons per acre, still low by industry standards, but quite high by Mills Vineyard standards. Jensen “declassified” 44% of the finished wine, deciding it was not high enough quality for the Mills bottling. The wine found its way his into the 2006 Mt. Harlan Cuvée Pinot Noir, a blend of the single vineyard wines and wine made from younger vines. Average ripeness: 25.9% sugar The amount of sugar in the grapes translates into alcohol. Notice on the far right of the label that the wine is 14% alcohol by volume. 2005 Mills Vineyard Winemaking Data Fermentation: Native yeasts This means that Jensen chose to ferment this wine with the yeasts present on the skins of the grape. While some producers choose to work only with native yeasts, many more choose to work with more predictable, less risky commercial yeasts. All of Jensen’s Pinot Noir wines are fermented on their own yeasts. Barrel Aging: 16 months in 60-gallon French oak barrels (18% new) Because of his love of Burgundy, Jensen uses French barriques to age his wine. French oak has a closer grain than American oak, and imparts more subtle oak f lavors to the wine. Note also that he uses only 18% new oak, which imparts the most f lavor, aromatics, and wood tannins. By using a regime of mostly-older oak barrels (probably one, two, and three years old) , Jensen is using the oak as a spice note in the wine, and

Date of bottling, etc: Completing the picture, Jensen lets us know that this is a small production of a fine wine – the equivalent of about 1,350 twelvebottle cases, more or less consistent with single-vineyard production in Burgundy.



AOS Graduation Speaker: Alex Stupak & Wine hailed him as “a visionary.”

Alex Stupak ’00 Executive Chef and Owner Empellón Cocina and Empellón Taqueria

In 2005, Chef Grant Achatz ’94 asked him to be the pastry chef at Alinea. The restaurant’s opening was a highly anticipated event in the food world, and it inspired Chef Stupak to be highly creative with his menu. He was asked to appear on NBC’s Today show and the Discovery Channel, and contributed several recipes to the Alinea cookbook.

Alex Stupak is executive chef and owner of Empellón Cocina and Empellón Taqueria in New York City. He began his culinary career working as a prep cook at the age of 12, having convinced the restaurant’s owner that he was of legal age. Alex took full advantage of his high school’s unique culinary arts program, joined the Vocational Industrial Clubs of America (VICA), and quickly started participating in culinary competitions. During his senior year, Alex competed at the national level, swept the competition, and won a full scholarship to The Culinary Institute of America. During his CIA externship at Boston’s prestigious Clio restaurant, he worked the pastry station as part of a mandatory rotation and, to his surprise, enjoyed it, although he had no intention of pursuing it further.

A 2007 invitation from Wylie Dufresne to take on the mantle of pastry chef at wd~50 fulfilled Chef Stupak’s combined ambitions to cook in New York and to work in an environment that fostered his creative vision. The following year, he was victorious on Iron Chef, and in both 2008 and 2009, Pastry Art & Design named him one of its “Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America.” During the entire time Chef Stupak worked at Alinea and wd~50, he questioned the future of modernism in cuisine and his place within the movement. He came to the realization that what was once a new way of thinking had become another format to be mimicked. Chef Stupak decided that, for him, the only logical progression was to push in a new direction by answering a simple question, “What do you love to eat the most?”

After graduating from the CIA, Chef Stupak moved to Chicago, where he became the tournant at Tru. Within 14 months, he was offered the position of sous chef at The Federalist in Boston, but finding himself dissatisfied with a lack of creative control, he began to plan an alternate path. In a twist of fate, a sudden opening in the pastry kitchen gave Chef Stupak the opportunity he was looking for—to take control of his own department. Fascinated by innovation and technique, and seeking an environment that supported his vision, Chef Stupak returned to Clio to become the restaurant’s first pastry chef. Boston magazine subsequently recognized him as “Best Pastry Chef” in 2003, and the following year, Food

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After answering that question for himself, Chef Stupak spent the majority of his four years in New York City working to create the restaurant of his dreams. In March 2010, he opened Empellón Taqueria to embrace the Mexican system of cooking. Less than a year later, he opened his second venture, Empellón Cocina, which the James Beard Foundation named a finalist for Best New Restaurant in 2013. Chef Stupak himself was hailed as Best New Chef by Food & Wine that same year for his work at both restaurants.

AOS Graduating Class of September 6, 2013

Culinary Arts Group #1

Front: Alfred Nebiar, Owen Wyatt, Rachel Johnston Shawna Plunkett, Amy L. Chicavich, Henderson Wong, Kyle Nelson, Jonathan Milan

Back: James Shuun, Shane Cawley, Rainer Burrow, Jason Hsu, Josh Roue, David Murray, Loln Williams Matt Belanger, Mason Garcia, Lucas Maloney

Culinary Arts Group #2 Front: Rebeca Lima Chastity Hopkins Zimir Reeds Allan Bautista Lottaya Palme Lindsay Wenarsky

Culinary Arts Group #3 Front: Katherine Speck Sara Colon Danielle Davenport Jerry Duff

Back: Woo Shin Cho Harrison Kantor Zach Goebel Ryan Teleha Sarah Brumfield Tim Reading

Back: Eduardo Garcia Ian Whalley Cory Padgett Graham McCollum Tyler Guerriero Scott Shipton Kyle Miller


September 6, 2013

C ooking W ith J im

BY: Ruth Sabath Rosenthal

Actually, with him in spirit, in the kitchen of his quaint brownstone on West 12th Street in Manhattan, decades after his death. And quite at home with him, I chop and slice; bake, twice-baked potatoes -- their skins crisping to perfection; roast, the prime tenderloin of beef he’d earlier instructed me to hand-rub with coarsely ground black pepper and kosher salt. (I used sea salt and that was ok with him.) Right now, he’s reminding me to stir my roux, then I should add crisp bacon bits, made earlier, to the chopped spinach I just finished sautéing. He says I should wait till the last minute to toss the mélange of local field greens with the lemongrette he had me make in lieu of vinaigrette, because, it seems that vinegar often spoils the taste of wine. As for the wines with dinner: for the salad, I’m chilling a 2011 Seyval Blanc from New York State; with the beef dish, a 10-year-old California Zinfandel; this followed by a 2010 Pinot Noir from Oregon, paired with artisanal cheeses from Vermont and Connecticut, plus crisp sourdough rolls and flatbreads; and, in the fridge, chilling, a late-harvest, Long Island Riesling to complement the secret confection hidden away on a silver tray till it’s time for dessert. According to Jim, red wine should be served at room temperature, and since older reds have a layer of sediment in the bottle, he said the Zin will need to be decanted, and that, right before serving; he wants the Pinot to breathe 15 minutes, or so, in the glass before being drank. (The aeration of younger reds will rid those wines of their chalky tasting tannins.) All this for my guests who’ll soon be sitting round my dining table akin to Jim’s 60 inch round green marble slab of a tabletop, where, before the first bite of the Jim-inspired, 5-star meal, I’ll raise my glass to the big bald guy -James Beard, “The Father of American Cuisine.”

M astering T he A rt


of ...

BY: Giulianna Galiano, MIT Al Forno So I finally wrote a book. Okay, maybe we won’t call this a “book”. In fact, I don’t want it to be called a book. I want you all to know that I self-published a guide, if you will. An instructional pamphlet, a small version of, “How To Use The Brick Oven For Dummies” you can say. That’s right folks, I, Giulianna Galiano, ex Editor-in-Chief, CIA Alumna ’12, and the current Functions Coordinator for Shelter Harbor Golf Club, finally wrote something that is my own. I apologize for the pompous introduction but this, to me, is a huge deal. I had worked on the Al Forno station in Caterina de Medici for almost a full year as a Manager in Training and I had so many stories, recipes, experiences and forms of education to share that I was determined to write a memoir. After about three months of editing, putting pictures together, researching and developing modified recipes, the booklet finally came together. I used a self-publishing website called “”. It’s a rather easy process and the website is very helpful in showcasing eager, young writers to the public with their works of art. Whether you want to make a scrapbook, photo album or share a personal story and sell it amongst members, I recommend using this website if you are a culinary student and love to write. My publication is titled Al Forno: Mastering The Art of The Brick Oven. I wrote it based on my experience growing up in NJ with a brick oven at home. My father is a mason and therefore, he knew all of the secrets to constructing and indoor Photo Credit: and outdoor woodfired oven. I grew up around celebrations where the main focus was brick oven cuisine. Is there such a thing? Yes, there is and I prove it in my various pages of writing. In this guide, you will find easy to use ratios, a history behind brick oven usages, multiple ways of cooking with fire and my stories from Al Forno. I think that it is very important that we all support each other at the CIA. As an Alumna, I am very proud of my alma mater and I always am inclined to purchase books that alumni write about the school. My “book” isn’t about CIA, but it certainly is derived from my journey there. If it weren’t for my students and their actions, ideas and curiosity, I would have had minimal writing material. I owe this work to them and everybody at Caterina. I urge you to support this publication and help me market it amongst the culinary community! Let’s help establish brick ovens in more locations than one. You can find my journal and e-book version at and soon on Happy reading!

BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary Finally. Victory. I just recently went through High Volume Production class in K-16. After a disastrous turn in both Modern Banquets and A la Carte, I expected a miserable, frustrating experience would be coming down the pike in this class, as well. I mean, how could I not fail miserably? The quantity of food that we would be preparing would be greater. The line of students waiting to eat would be longer. The stress and pressure would be heavier. How then, was it my favorite class so far? I made successful dish after successful dish, made no horrible mistakes, had no crazy stress or pressure or ridiculous working circumstances, and fun was had by all! It became pretty clear to me that it is quite easy to actually succeed as a student here in the right circumstances. I didn’t do anything monumentally different in this class than my other classes. However, I had more experience and perspective, and it came right after our three-week break in July. Having had a physical break from class and an opportunity to reflect served me well, I believe. Also, there was the instructor. Chef Justin Ward manages the kitchen like a seasoned pro – which he is. The man takes two sips of coffee and dashes around the kitchen with an intensity that can sometimes be frightening. He shows up in front of your group while you’re debating technique or the special du jour and will be multi-tasking before he says a word. “Okay, guys, what are we doing?” he’ll ask while grabbing one of your utensils and stirring, tasting, or chopping, eyes wide and darting around the kitchen to see the next group who needs his input. “This needs salt,” he’ll say, looking over your head and already focused on his next task. He’ll stop and look at you, expecting a full answer as to what you’re

doing that day. “I was thinking we could do a steak fajita omelet. There’s leftover meat in the walk in, and we can sauté off some peppers and onions.” “I love that idea,” he says, as you watch the wheels turn in his head. “There’s some salsa verde in the walk-in, from Patrick’s group yesterday. Use that, too,” he’ll say, walking away. “Do an American omelet,” he offers over his shoulder as he quickly strides over to the muffin group. He’s always got a plan, even on-the-fly, and rarely lets leftover food in the walk-in go to waste. The great thing about Chef Ward – and Chef DelleRose, who we had for the second half of the class -- is that they are balanced in offering helpful instruction and allowing you to do things your way. They don’t label it “wrong” when it’s simply not the way they would do things. We heard a lot of, “Well, yeah, you could do it that way, too.” Only when we were way off base with a technique or plan, or when our ideas were going to be far more time-consuming than theirs did they offer guidance. When you’re not constantly worried about what the Chef is going to say, you trust yourself more. When you trust yourself more, you feel comfortable with what you’re doing. You know if you fail, there will be instruction, not admonishment or annoyance coming. This breeds confidence in students. The right kind, where you start to become adventurous and want to try new things, not the naïve overconfidence that some of us bring with us to school. There’s initial gameplan-planning with them. “Okay, here’s what your group is going to do today. This is how you need to do it to be successful.” There’s feasibility to their instructions. It’s not simply, “Do it in this amount of time, GO!” There are explanations as to why things are getting done a certain way. There were shortcuts – things that were already partially prepped in the walk-in that we could use. “Hey, your group is going to be a little over-loaded today, we’ll get someone from the grill group to hop on your team for a bit, they can spare the help and you’re going to need it.” They’re managing the kitchen, and each group, for success in the tasks, not simply emphasizing speed. Not that we weren’t urged to work faster. We abso-

CHILI COOK OFF The HOTTEST event on campus Music by Blueberry McGinn featuring Chefs DiPerri, Higgins and Zearfross! THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

SEPTEMBER 15, 2013 12:30PM ATHLETIC FIELD Tasting begins at 1:15 Join us for some ace-high chili and vote for your favorite in the People’s Choice Competition. Try your hand at our Chili Challenges, race your friends through the Adrenaline Rush Obstacle Course and leave with an airbrused Cowboy Hat!


lutely were. There’s always a deadline and a time that the kitchen needs to be open by. I didn’t miss family meal once. Everything went so smoothly in both parts – breakfast and lunch – of the class, that I was startled. I felt so much better about myself. I started to gain confidence. I felt like a chef for the first time. I finally felt like me again after two high-stress classes with ensuing dismal grades. I actually wanted to cook at home. It was a revelation. I honestly don’t know why this class went so smoothly and my last two did not. While I didn’t have a moment where everything clicked, nor did it seem to me that I really did anything differently, I have to believe that one of the main reasons why the class was so cool is because my thought process changed. I believe that the way I thought about the tasks needed to be ready for service was different. I noticed an absence of linear thinking about my tasks and more of a multi-tasking mindset. I thought about the distribution of tasks between the individuals in my group and how we would be most productive. Most of all, what I noticed about my entire group’s performance is that when there was a setback – waiting on the supplemental, a task taking more time than anticipated, a serious mistake being made – is that we worked the whole way through it. Meaning, that if there was a setback, we thought while we worked, and kept moving the entire meal forward piece-by-piece, even if we had to drop a part of the plan. We would work on different parts of meal and get it moved towards completion however we could. Then, when we’d get the needed ingredient, or re-cook the burnt item, other tasks would already be completed and we lost less time this way. We attacked problems as a group and utilized our time more wisely. I noticed this with all of the groups in our class. Cooking became reactionary to the situation and not a step-by-step execution of a timeline. Not once did I adhere to the timeline I made, it was a guideline, not a hard-and-fast set plan. What I learned the most in this class was to think on my feet, to respond to a setback productively, and shrewdly focus on what we could do to finish the meal instead of focusing on what went wrong. There was also calmness, and not panic, if something did go wrong. We had been in the weeds before and pulled out of it, so there was no longer that fear of failure or being chastised. Instead, it was replaced by a feeling of competence and capability, and growth through adversity. There was also the knowledge that an ingenious idea might be given by one of our chefs that would save our behinds at the last minute. All in all, it felt to me like I grew as a chef. I felt like I had grown as a person. I didn’t even mind the breakfast hours. I needed this success. It made me feel strong and confident. And, I am back to getting A’s again. That’s better.

2013 9 06 final  

La Papillote is a tri-weekly publication on the behalf of The Culinary Institute of America. Any and all comments should be sent to Editor-i...

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