Volume 33, No.24
March 22, 2013
is the perfect end to this rustic meal.
BY Diane Lam, AOS Culinary
Rhinebeck The Hudson Valley is home to many as Terrapin the home of great agriculture and pastures 6426 Montgomery Street Rhinebeck from vineyards to distilleries and dairy Offering more choices than farms to our very own Foie Gras farm--not many of the participating restaurants, to mention our own personal addition to Terrapin provides diverse flavors that the area, the Culinary Institute of America. mingle with the essence of freshness and Diverse and complex, we cultivated a special ethnic flavors. Mixing Spanish with South kind of lifestyle, one that revolves around East Asian themes, dishes like Barbequed food. Like most food Meccas, it’s no surprise Duck Quesadilla and Maple grilled brined that we have our own Restaurant Week. Pork Chops are sure to provide an immense 0Here are a few of my personal favorites, amount of flavor and for some, a fusion of all of which are local choices, located two culinary favorites, Asian and Spanish. here in Dutchess County. Each restaurant offers a prix fixe menu price of $20.95 for If any of these menu items strikes lunch and a $29.95 for dinner. Restaurants an interest, let that fuel your fire to explore will either offer both lunch and dinner Brasserie 292 in Poughkeepsie offers a warm and edgy setting. Photo by food.lohudlogs.com the realm of Hudson Valley Restaurant or provide either of the options; www. Week. What’s special about the participating hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com is a great and dense sheep’s milk Ricotta that is pressed, dried, aged and restaurants is that they maintain a fair level of locality with the resource for a list of participating restaurants, reservations and salted--are some of the items that titles this menu desirable and farms in the area and are proud to advertise and “name drop” a detailed menu for each restaurant. bold. them throughout their menu. Get rid of the idea that the only existing culinary scene is in New York City and start to open Poughkeepsie Crave your perception of what’s in our neighborhood. Have fun and Artist’s Palate 129 Washington Street Poughkeepsie dine hardy—on a fixed price to boot! 307 Main St Poughkeepsie Contemporary American Contemporary American 0With their diverse and vibrant menu, Crave embodies a 0With flashy execution and their use of fine products, theatrical play on American comforts such as Chicken and Artist’s Palate has created a menu that fits the preferences of all Rosemary Waffles drizzled with house made Crown Maple and at the same time guides one to new palatable discoveries. Bourbon Syrup and buttermilk powder or a Pastrami spiced Dishes are mostly sourced local, prepared fresh and presented Beef Tongue on an “everything” bagel. BY: Stephanie Kirkland, Editor-in-Chief clean. 0Innovation through their take on familiar flavors is what 0From their Frog Legs Provencal style served with a warm they have going for their menu. The local Wild-Hive-Farm Chefs around the Hudson Valley area have grilled baguette to their Australian ‘Roo alongside a creamy Polenta is an amusing series of textures involving roasted been participating in interviews and opening up Cauliflower-Pecorino flan, the menu is sure to excite as well as wild mushrooms, smoked Pork Belly and a soft poached egg. their restaurants to hungry area eaters interested hit the mark on your dining expectations. The thought of such combinations will make anyone’s mouth in supporting these local business’ and the special water. deals they have to offer. Brasserie 292 With different cuisines ranging from Italian 292 Main St Poughkeepsie Fishkill American to French Bistro, you’re bound to find French Il Barilotto Enoteca something to fit your craving. 0Brasserie offers a warm and edgy intimate setting which 1113 Main Street Fishkill You can find numerous reviews, and is a perfect platform for their French home-style menu. They Italian interviews of area Chefs and Restaurateurs at offer a lunch and dinner menu, each providing depth and 0Il Barilotto shines amongst the Italian restaurants in http://hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com/press. charm seen through their use of seasonal produce served with Fishkill due to their zing on Italian staples such as the housephp traditional French technique. made short Rigatoni with Proscuitto and Artichoke Hearts in You can become apart of the action by of Menu items such as the Maine Diver Scallops served a Fontina Béchamel and Pistachio crusted Fluke served with a course checking out some of these restaurants with thinly sliced Chioga Beets and Pistachios in an Orange- Sweet Onion Puree drizzled with Olio Verde. Warm Crepes for yourself- whether you are apart of HVRW or Tarragon nage or the Squid Ink Cavatelli Arrabiata tossed with stuffed with Ricotta, Dark Chocolate and candied Citrus Zest not, you’re bound to get a good deal. Broccoli Raab, roasted Tomatoes and Ricotta Salata--a white
FOOD & BEVERAGE
From the Editor’s Desk
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
Just when you think you’ve seen the last of snow covered cars and roads, the tricky Hudson Valley takes a sharp left into what seems like the start of another try at winter, as if it were hoping for another chance. In reality, our CIA community is headed into April in full swing regardless of the finicky weather.
March 22, 2013
The Student Affairs Division
Stephanie M. Kirkland
CONTRIBUTORS Diane Lam Chef Freddy Brash Jonathan Pietzman Irena Chalmers Liza Kassim Francis Maling
Dan Castro Giulianna Galiano Steven Kolpan Amy Zarichnak Michael Earle
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
Getting ready for Spring can be just as tricky. Between packing away all of your tried and true winter get-up, and waiting for a sub par day to get digging out flower beds; who am I kidding? All we want to do is to be able to walk to our cars in the far off lots with out having to get bundled up or freeze as p.m. students do as they walk back from class. I have tired of making hearty soups and fattening up on heavy, and luscious, meats and cheeses. A part of me yearns for a refreshing salad, heavy rather with first of the seasons offerings of fragile greens and peas. I was working on this issue in particularly when I thought of warmer days to come, when spirits may be lifted not by bowls of pasta, but by the lure of picnic tables and chirping birds. Area restaurants and farms are getting ready for seasons change too. Hudson Valley Restaurant Week has a habit of awakening even the deepest hibernaters for great deals at participating restaurants. And with the first of this Springs’ blooming flowers, we are on our way to long awaited farmers markets, flip-flops, and grills galore. I’m ready, are you?
As always, stay hungry.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
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La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net
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Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
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March 22, 2013
Chapter 31: Spring Ahead BY: Chef Freddy Brash, Culinary Arts Instructor
Well Chefs, I wrote an article on Spring since we turned the clock ahead and I have noticed, Chefs of the future, you are very tired in classes these days. The epitome of spring for me as a cook was always 3 products: 1.Asparagus 2.Soft shell crabs 3.Beets Asparagus When those big crates of large asparagus would come into the kitchen at Le Relais in April we knew that it would be on the menu for a while. When it’s in season you can prepare, cook and serve asparagus in many ways and it is easy because it’s such a versatile product. When I was garde manger we always used large asparagus, that is what France grows because when you peel it the stalk is super tender. Peeled, par cooked, and served with classic mustard vinaigrette. Yum! Remember that hollandaise from Culinary Fundamentals? It would also go well with the asparagus. Asparagus soup never stays green so that is not a favorite of mine. I did work for a French chef that marked the asparagus on the stem and you would peel down from that point, making sure every asparagus was perfect!
Beets Jimmy would roast red beets in the morning for everyone in the kitchen with cinnamon, rosemary and thyme. It was in the air when you arrived in the kitchen and made you want to cook that day. My salad would be peppery arugula, citrusy cara cara oranges and a beet vinaigrette. Some of us like to put goat cheese with spring beets. You will prepare a beet salad in your career, a mainstay on any menu. One preparation, which was new at an American style restaurant, was made with beet gratinee with sweet potatoes so it bled red. It was really tasty with a seared loin of venison. Soft shell crabs This is a spring classic. Whenever we received in 3-5 flats of the soft shell crabs, we’d pull out the underbelly, scissor the eyes and remove the butt flap. Some chefs soak in milk, while we used buttermilk. The most important result of a properly cooked soft shell crab is that they are crispy (Chef Clark would be proud). One night cooking endless crabs I decided to taste one. I am a little ashamed to tell you but as a young cook in training I had not tasted any. Bad Freddy. I put the crab on my cutting board, spooned on the brown butter and then I knew why customers could not wait till spring.
Totto... Wait for it... Ramen
BY: Francis Maling, BPS Culinary Crowds bother me. I may have a slight condition of claustrophobia. Or then again I may just be your average New Yorker who prefers his own personal space. Commuting in and out of the city however, you get used to these little things. As the train car pulls up to the Metro North platform at Grand Central Station, I clutch my weekend duffel bag and sling it over to my right shoulder, listening intently for car doors to open. Naturally, there would be a line running through the isle. I patiently wait to get in line, careful not to elbow an arm or a head. The doors swing open and the people scatter. I head out to the Main Concourse to meet my girlfriend at Hudson News, nearly tumbling over some guy who decided to tie his shoes along my path. What a genius! At this time of the day, I am famished. I really just want something to devour. As in I would sit down and eat at the food court or spend unlawful amounts of money at the Oyster Bar, but I know myself better. I tell her I want to grab ramen somewhere around Hell’s Kitchen. I tell her about this noodle shop that has been on top of many critics’ reviews all over the city. My craving needs to be tamed. My hunger needs to be satisfied. I’m nearly weak, irritated and downright desperate for nourishment. Now I don’t usually succumb to hype, but when the big players like New York Times, New York Magazine, Time Out New York and The Wall Street Journal are raving about it there must be something special about it. My hope is that Totto Ramen will be the answer.
Ramen, for those who don’t know, is a Japanese noodle soup dish with a traditionally slow simmered fish or pork broth, with garnishes and oils to add flavor. Most college students should be familiar with the pre-packaged products from Top Ramen and Maruchan which include flavored seasonings. I had my own concoctions back in my dorm. I like to think that because I’m in the culinary program, my “Dorm Room Ramen Recipes” are amazing (once I added left over deep fried pork belly), but more on that later. A short sixteen city blocks later, through the tourist ridden Times Square and
not take reservations. They do not take phone orders. They do not deliver. The best bet for a quick visit at Totto Ramen is during lunch hours starting at noon. On a Friday night however, one must sign in a name on a hanging clipboard by the door, and the host occasionally check names off every 10 minutes. If a name is called and the party is unavailable, they automatically lose their spot. I’m thinking to myself, “Why haven’t they upgraded to the call or text system some restaurants use?” Restaurants like Momofuku Ssam Bar, The Meatball Shop, and Pig and Khao enforce this system in order to create an order, while reassuring the guest that they will be seated shortly. Totto Ramen was a drag. Every time the host pops out of the right side of the front door, onlookers anticipate their names and sternly reaffirm their name instantly. The wait is a killer. The cold is even worse. In my head, I chant for the unlucky ones who didn’t have patience for it waiting to be crossed out of the list. “33…28…20…15!” My girlfriend and I count the number of names ahead of us-- anything really to bare this arduous purgatory-like state of waiting. As people leave the shop, I wonder how their experience was. What is so special about this ramen? Most responses that I received were “incredible,” “excellent,” “well worth the wait,” and my favorite, the nonchalanthead-nod-and-thumbs-up-with-a-smirk. By 8:00pm, the wait Continued on page 8
“...but my name is finally called out. We entered the shop and were seated at the counter, the best seat in house. And I didn’t even have to bribe anyone...”
Theatre Row, we walked along the buildings on 52nd street, eyeing the line of people outside the tiny basement noodle shop. “Are you kidding me?” I ask my girlfriend, swearing towards the evening skyline, as ramen noodle fantasies diminish and hopes of slurping a hot bowl of intensely flavored broth flail. It wasn’t just the amount of people that were there that bothered me, but the fact that I must wait at least an hour (according to a couple who overheard my rant) in order to get a table in ramen haven. Now check this out: Totto Ramen does
Interview with Irena Chalmers BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary
Ever wonder how Irena Chalmers feels about her own success? With years of writing, mentoring, teaching, and most importantly, giving advice to her hungry students and peers under her belt, we wanted to flip the table and ask her some questions about her own fruitful career.
Amy: What is your definition of success? Irena: The definition of success varies from one person to another; some measure it by how much money they have in the bank — some by fame and celebrity. I think my personal definition of success is being able to choose how to spend my time. I love being a writer, teacher and mentor and making my own decisions about almost everything. A: Do you feel that you’ve been successful? I: Yes — in a modest sort of way. A: What do you think has helped you to be successful? This can be your own personality traits, a lucky break, a good mentor, etc. I: Chance. By chance, I have had many opportunities laid at my feet. I had only to bend down and pick them up. By chance I met the most important people in my life — and recognized at once that I needed to make the effort to build lasting friendships. My vibrant network of friends is my most valuable possession. A: What advice would you give to me to be successful as
a writer? I: Be honest. Don’t second guess your work. Use your own unique voice. And take infinite care to scrutinize every word. Never send anything to anyone unless you have reviewed it carefully. Just remember someone, somewhere may decide to
that second martini I had last evening. A: And conversely…. …. Have you had anything happen to you that you initially thought was bad or ugly or difficult but turned out to be something that changed your career path for the better? I: Yes. I’ve married three times. I discovered it is better to be a single mother. Many times I’ve been furious about something only to discover I had totally misinterpreted the situation. When I decided to keep quiet, it turned out to be better. I thought I would hate working in The Writing Center, but found I am learning a lot from listening to other tutors and the students who come to visit. A: You speak your mind a lot, which I find hilarious and also, very, very brave. I censor myself a lot because I don’t like to anger people, even though I think I say things that everyone else is thinking, like you do. What have the benefits been for you of calling it like you see it? Have there been any irreversible negative effects for doing so? I: Well. I recognize, usually after blurting an opinion, that I may have offended the strongly held views of others. I hope I haven’t done any lasting damage, but fear I am not universally beloved. A: Any parting words? I: Perhaps because I arrived in America as in immigrant, I cherish each (or almost each) person and try to make them part of my lovely, ever- expanding family. This, after all, is the most important thing. Keep going, and as they say: Illigitemi non carborundum (meaning, “Don’t let the bastards get you down!”)!
“Be honest. Don’t second guess your work. Use your own unique voice. And take infinite care to scrutinize every word.”
A Word From the
BY: Michael Earle, SGA President Since being elected as the Student Government Association President I have truly felt a sense of controlled chaos of which I knew quite well that was going to hit me. Luckily I have a strong team of individuals that pour their hearts into making the CIA that much better. My team sacrifices so much time. Throughout a 15 week term, the entire board sacrifices 180 hours solely on the required meetings that they have to attend. Atop of the 180 hours they also schedule meetings with administrators about issues that affect the entire campus. One of our most recent accomplishments is the implementation of the new Chinese language course. This is a fantastic opportunity for students that just want to learn the language, or for those that don’t want to look like a complete idiot while on their FWA trip to China. This gives the student basic concepts of the language just in case you were to lose Chef Cheng in Beijing. I am proud of the things that we as your Student Government have already accomplished. I am more excited about the things that we are currently working on. I can say that I look forward to the next 24 weeks of serving you, the student body.
Cory Radley, born 10/15/1992, was a CIA culinary student in his second semester when he passed away on March 3rd at his home in Virginia. There was a service held on Saturday, March 9, 2013, at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church in King George, Virginia. Memorial donations may still be made in Cory’s name to St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, 5486 St. Paul’s Road, King George, VA 22485. The CIA Friends & Classmates of Cory Radley gave excellent regards to our CIA community with a vigil to honor his memory that was held on Monday, March 18th on our Hyde Park Campus. On behalf of CIA students, faculty, and staff, La Papillote would like to give our sincerest regards in this time to Cory’s friends and family during this time of need.
write your biography. A: You’re 78. What accomplishments are you most proud of? I: You may remember the book, The Last Lecture? Food Jobs 2 will be my last book. I wrote it while undergoing intensive chemotherapy and radiation. There were days when I could barely stand and could work for only 10 or 15 minutes at a time. It is astonishingly cheerful— as I still am. Everyone around me told me not to try to work, but in fact it was the best thing for me to do. I’m proud I did actually finish it. It will be published in three months. A: What have you yet to accomplish? I: I think I would like to be a ballerina A: Any regrets or things that you would do differently? I: Actually, no. Once I’ve made up my mind, I’d rather look forward than back, though I do feel a little guilty about
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March 22, 2013
Irena Chalmers: Helping Hands BY: Irena Chalmers, CIA Instructor
the children to drink before heading off to school. A gift of a cow costs the giver $500.00, though anyone can contribute just $50.00 for a cow share. We can buy a whole goat for $120 or $10.00 for a share. Goats
A. A. Milne, the beloved author of Winnie the Pooh said, “In the quiet hours when we are alone and there is nobody to tell us what fine fellows we are, we come sometimes upon a moment in which we wonder, not how much money we are earning, not how famous we have become, but what good we are doing.” Many chefs are fine fellows: they do well by being good neighbors. They volunteer at local food banks through organizations like feedingamerica.org. Mario Batali is one among many who have created their own philanthropy. His is called the Mario Batali Foundation. He said, “Those of us who are fortunate enough to make a living feeding people have a very clear view of those who cannot afford to eat.” Ben Cohen & Jerry Greenfield were trailblazers in the food industry. Their values encompass every aspect of their business. Their brilliant Heifer International Foundation enables even those who have little to give, to offer a living gift that truly Photo by: awelltraveledwoman.tunmblr.com keeps on giving. It helps children and families around the world receive the nutrients, training and sup- make the perfect gift. They provide up to a gallon of rich, nutriplies they need to live a more self-reliant life. When, for example, a tious milk each day and don’t need large tracts of land for grazfamily receives a Heifer, every morning there’s fresh, rich milk for ing. Sheep can be gifted for $120 each. Their wool can be used to
make clothes and the manure turned into fertilizer. Ultimately the mutton provides a good dinner while two sheep will produce even more little lambs. Chickens require little but give a lot. They don’t take up much space and can thrive on food scraps. A flock of little chicks costs just $20. Three rabbits cost $60.00 or $10.00 a share, and they breed like, well, rabbits. A pig also makes a perfect present. It is also possible to donate funds for a pair of ducks, a beehive or a Noah’s Arc ($5,000), a veritable farmyard of 15 lady and gentleman pairs of food producing animals or a hive of bees. Heifer animals are like “living savings accounts” for struggling families. All these organizations welcome full and part-time paid workers or volunteers to provide assistance with marketing, event planning — even accounting and other management skills. Learning about the many opportunities to help those in need is like discovering a Hansel and Gretel trail of crumbs; a foodie fairy tale with a happy ending. Small crumbs are transformed into loaves and fishes that feed many thousands. Winston Churchill as always gets the last word: He memorably said: “We make a living by what we get, we make a life by what we give.”
A Call to Proverbial Arms BY: Jonathan Peitzman, AOS Culinary
I make it a point to go to see as many of the guest speakers that visit campus. They always bring something interesting to the table that I would have never thought of. Well this month we were graced with the presence of an unexpected guest to our campus. My Chef told me that it was not to be missed and we all know that, “Yes Chef” is the response to a suggestion like that. When I say unexpected I only mean that the speaker, Ahmad Kamal, was the Former Permanent Representative of Pakistan to the United Nations and now works as a Senior Fellow with The United Nations, specifically on a committee that is concerned with the distribution of food to those in the world who are going without, UNITAR (United Nations Institute for Training & Research). He admitted to being slightly nervous at speaking in an environment of culinary students as well as the size of the audience in the Danny Kaye Theater, which was so full that students were sitting on the stairs in the aisles. I can say without any hesitation that Mr. Kamal was one of the most exciting and most controversial speakers I have seen thus far. His lecture discussed the effects of globalization on food. He focused his topics on the inequality of both wealth and the distribution of food in the world all with a sense of humor and an honesty that even caused a few gasps during his lecture. He emphasized that The Culinary Institute of America was a school of “excellence” in all aspects and that we were incredibly lucky to be enrolled in such a school but that it is important to place yourself in a global context in all that you do. In particular he mentioned that there is more than
enough food to feed everyone in the world but that it was not distributed evenly. According to Oxfam, “There is an uneven distribution of food in the world [… ] for each person in developed countries, an average of 600 kg of cereal is available per year. In contrast, for the each person in poor countries, there is less than 200 kg of cereal per year. The richest 20% of people in the world consume nearly half the meat and fish in the world, but the poorest 20% consume just 5%.” At this point he drew his first gasp from the audience when he pointed out that we in the United States are extremely lucky for our standard of living and it was why he was so thin, coming from a place with very little food, and why the gentleman in the front row were, “so large and obese.” He mentioned how in much of the world it is not eating for pleasure as we do, it is eating for survival and that we must be aware of. Let us meditate on some facts collected by Washington State University, “Americans eat 815 billion calories of food each day-that’s roughly 200 billion more than needed-enough to feed 80 million people. Americans throw out 200,000 tons of edible food daily. The average individual daily consumption of water is 159 gallons, while more than half the world’s population lives on 25 gallons. Eighty percent of the corn grown and ninety-five of the oats are fed to livestock. FiftySix percent of available farmland is used for beef production. 250 million people have died of hunger-related causes in the past quarter century-roughly 10 million each year. 700 to 800 million people, perhaps even as many as a billion, don’t get enough food to support normal daily activities.”
It is shocking and, as one could gather from the question and answer session, most Americans do not know what they can do to help the situation. Mr. Kamal was rather unsympathetic, a refreshing attitude, and said essentially that if you want to make a change you must simply go out and make it happen. He gave no advice in terms of organizations or efforts to make, only that if you want something done the only effective action is just that, action. But in the spirit of doing something I will offer a few suggestions. The United Nations, is where Mr. Kamal runs the World Food Programme (or WFP), there is the World Hunger Relief Organization, World Hunger Relief, and Oxfam. There is also Seeds for Change, which is a seed activist organization, a highly contentious issue these days. This way if you feel that you want to get involved you have a starting point to do some research for yourself and see which is the best cause for you. But in terms of our culinary careers what can we do? Aside from being extremely aware of the waste you produce and the suppliers you purchase from you must take a moral inventory of what you stand for and create standards that you will abide by no matter what circumstance. But it is a personal decision and path that we all must make. After he made everyone in the audience have a good dose of American guilt he wrapped up by reminding us to be aware of everyone in the world and how we can affect them. It was a very memorable talk and hopefully one that causes a change in actions of one or two, but hopefully all, of the students in the audience.
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Chowder Cookoff: in photos Held March 10th in the SRC Gym
March 22, 2013
It’s all about Grace
BY: Ian Cairns, AOS Culinary Restaurant Grace: situated in the heart of Chicago, it was conceptualized, designed, and built by chef and co-owner Curtis Duffy. Who is Curtis Duffy you might ask? Chances are you know him, but the name isn’t familiar. The man has quite an impressive resume as a sous chef at Charlie Trotters, Pastry Chef at Trio, Chef de Cuisine at Alinea, and the Executive Chef at Avenues. Considering his background, Duffy pulls influences from everywhere he’s worked. The result is a one of a kind restaurant. This past January I had the pleasure of doing a week long stage at Grace, and the experience was amazing to say the least. On day one of my stage I arrived at 652 West Randolph Street nearly an hour early to my start time. Confused on how to enter, I walked to the back and front entrance several times before I hit a call button and was allowed in the back. As I entered, I walked into what resembled a bomb shelter; it was dark, cold, and fabricated with concrete walls. I guessed my way through a series of iron doors before I saw a glimpse of white; and was dumbfounded as I stumbled my way into the kitchen. The kitchen is flawless, beautiful and one of a kind. Based on the design of Alinea’s, Grace’s kitchen is built with two long prep tables and third that’s perpendicular. The top of these prep tables are covered not with stainless steel, but beautiful stain, heat, and scratch resistant white quartz. Below them housed low boys, plate warmers, combi ovens, refrigerated drawers, blast freezers, and equipment closets. The idea behind this was to ensure that the cooks had everything they needed to be successful. The walls and floor tiles are equally stunning with polished marble; the look makes you think you’re in a scene from 2001 Space Odyssey. But Chef Duffy realized that this laboratory feel needed to be broken up, so the main highlight of the kitchen is the spice rack that was handmade out of some kind of fancy wood. The Savory part of the kitchen consists of the two parallel prep tables and is divided
Many were happy clams Sunday, March 10 at The Chowder Cookoff, held annually at The Culinary Institute of America’s Hyde Park campus. Prior to the competition, the event had to overcome a series of unfortunate events such as a blizzard, coupling with a threat of Norovirus that surrounded the Dutchess County during those few days. Needless to say, the event was well anticipated by the student community as many showed up the day of the event to taste chowders from fourteen different teams.
1. A full bowl of chowder that was in consideration for first place in the cookoff. 2. The SRC was full with Happy Clams this past Chowder Cookoff. 3. Team Clams with Muscles came in 3rd place! 4. Team Flex Your Mussles came in 2nd place! 5. A look at another bowl of chowder from the cookoff. 6. Contestants eagerly making strides to win the oyster shucking competition. 7. Oysters ready for shucking, and eating!
Photos BY: Dan Castro, BPS Culinary
into hot and cold side. This isn’t because one side serves cold food and the other hot, but because one has a French top and the other a freezer, that’s it. The kitchen is so ergonomically designed that the chefs constantly reminded me how any dish could be picked up from any station. The idea behind this is it serves as a way to equally distribute dishes around the kitchen so at no particular time would any one station be slammed. Pastry pass works similarly but there is a designated area for breads, because Grace pairs nearly every savory course with a unique bread. Yes I said it, bread parings. As I was greeted in the kitchen by the small figured Chef de Cuisine Nicolas Romero, he proceeded to give me a tour of the facilities. At first, he took me by the pastry side of the kitchen through a corridor of what seemed to be the world’s best server station. Chef Nic then led me down a set of stairs laced with life sized pictures of famous chefs from around the world, strategically placed for inspiration I suppose. Once I reached the bottom, I was shown the locker rooms and staff lounge (equipped with two large sofas, a HD TV, and a PS3!). As my tour continued I was shown the staples of dry storage, walk-in, laundry, dish pit, and a couple others but when I returned to the kitchen I realized I’d been walking for the past ten minutes or so. This place was huge! The cuisine at Grace falls into the same category as Alinea: progressive American. They take the ingredient, sometimes using the natural form and sometimes manipulating it to create one of a kind dishes. There are techniques at Grace that stem from nearly every culture, and the equipment used to produce it is state of the art. Plate presentation is very free flowing and natural and is always accompanied by some sort of micro herb. Chef Duffy offers two tasting menus at Grace. One of which highlights vegetables, though it is not entirely vegetarian, while the other doesn’t really highlight anything, but contains meat. During my stage I had the luxury of trying a couple of the courses and they were either hit or miss in my book but don’t take my word for it, go check it out for yourself.
Chicago Eats BY: Giulianna Galiano, MIT Alforno
Riding on the CTA from O’Hare airport, I texted my friend Audrey craving a Chicago hotdog. I had just spent the last few hours traveling and paid over $15 for some chips and a salad at the airport, which is quite ridiculous if you ask me. Sure, there were plenty of places we could have gone to for a meal in Chicago. Every one of my friends suggested trying out Publican or Alinea (of course), but I am always one to seek out the so-called “hole-in-the-wall” restaurants and bars that never get any credit or bistros that add a rustic style to their ego. The famed Chicago hotdog -- a success! Audrey and I took the bus to the other side of town and stepped in front of “Franks ‘n Dawgs” restaurant. At first, Audrey frowned and stomped her feet because the door was locked! We were starving and thankfully a local walked by and whispered, “The entrance is in the alley.” Talk about Chicago hotdogs taking it to a whole new level! The buns were wonderful and toasty and the “hotdogs” ranged from homemade sausages to vegan supplements. I even downed my meal with a refreshing local butterscotch root beer. The atmosphere was very Chicago-esque featuring brick walls, hipster benches and a friendly vibe. The same night, Audrey and I felt the need to doll up and visit a well-known bar in town. Okay, maybe bar is a low-class name for this place. It was definitely more like a lounge, with a la carte cocktails. Yes friends, we actually got reservations at The Aviary. What an experience! We both spent hours getting ready and agreed to find somewhere to eat beforehand considering that we would be tasting cocktails all night. There was a brilliant Tapas bar a few blocks away from The Aviary where we enjoyed a glass of wine, country bread with house-made spreads and grilled eggplant with feta cheese and red onions. If you are ever in the Chicago area, grabbing a small bite at Vera is a must! Okay, so The Aviary. There are no words to describe it but if I must write about my experience, I will try to capture the magic of the night. The cocktails were actually very affordable, in my opinion. The pre-fixe of three cocktails for $35 is a bargain! Especially since these drinks are driven by molecular surprises! You typically pay $13 for a mimosa in Manhattan, so why not go all out in Chicago? The cocktail servers were extremely helpful and friendly in guiding us through the menu. The crowd was very classy yet laid-back, intrigued with their neighbors’ cocktails and “oo-ing” and “ahh-ing” over each course. Grant Achatz has outdone himself in the bar field. It was a great treat to see Morimoto conversing in the lounge as well. It was a surreal moment seeing a celebrity Chef sit back and relax, like any other human being! It is suggested to order the Poached Pear or Baked Apple cocktail for a sweet take on traditional drinks. The menu varies and is very-well balanced between over-the-top cocktails and simple infusions with quality ingredients. Don’t forget to order some small bites as well. As one lady described it next to me, the brioche bites were like a “food-gasm.”Thank you Chicago for such a tasty journey! As for that deep-dish pizza, I’d rather keep such comments to myself.
Singapore Laksa Legacy
BY:Liza Kassim, AOS Culinary
It amazes me how a bowl of noodles seems to delectably it well with salt, a sprinkle of sugar and there you have it -a fishcakes, prawns and cooked cockles can also be made. satisfy anyone. If you were to look around and observe highly flavored coconut gravy that tastes perfect with a bowl The most interesting part of this dish will be the addition closely in the hawker center in Singapore, you could almost of warm rice noodles. of various fresh herbs and vegetables which in my opinion spot satisfying expressions of several eaters who sipped and The significant difference between the Malay Laksa and is exceptionaly interesting and tasty. Amongst them will slurped into their bowl of Laksa. A nodding gesture of ‘mmm’ Nyonya Laksa has to be the addition of fish flakes in the gravy be shredded de-seeded cucumbers, julienned onions, fresh and ‘yum’ will be immediately bean sprouts, an abundance of followed. It’s no wonder that chiffonade daun kesum (vietnemese the bowl of laksa noodles is mint), shredded bunga kantan (red one of the best selling dishes ginger torch), hard boiled egg and amongst the bounty of noodle spoonfuls of spicy sambal tradionally dishes found in Singapore and added on the side simply to spice up regarded as a comfort food that the noodles. simply satisfies tastebuds. What Another interesting Laksa, which is Laksa? is more popular in Malaysia than Basically, it is a bowlful of rice Singapore is Asam Laksa. Instead noodles served with thick creamy of being coconut based, this Laksa coconut gravy and garnished has hot, spicy and sour fish based with an abundance of fresh broth. As garnishes to the noodles herbs and vegetables. an addition of shredded pineapple, There are several types of slices of cut red chilli, few strands laksa in Singapore, the most of daun kesum (vietnemese mint), popular ones are Laksa lemak chopped cilantro and bean sprouts which tradionally is a Malay will be freshly added before dish. The other equally famous serving. Laksa is the Nyonya Laksa, a In term of preferences, since A bowl of Laksa, complete with toppings and accompaniments. Photo by: Liza Kassim merger from the Chinese and Singapore is a melting pot of races, Malay heritage also known as Nyonya Peranakan. Both of while it’s simmering. Malays prefer a thicker consistency of a true Singaporean will admittedly favor both Malay and these varieties share similarities of relatively the same basic the coconut gravy. Thus, the gravy will be cooked with bits Nyonya Laksa. Singaporean acceptance of different food ingredients. The Laksa paste comprises of shallots, garlic, hot and pieces of fish. A whole fish will be boiled separetely with culture amongst other ethnic groups clearly allows them to red peppers, and shrimp paste (belacan). This will then be a few pieces of kaffir lime leaves and a couple of bruised explore and appreciate the wide varieties and selection of the sautéed with a little bit of oil. As soon as the oil separates lemongrass stalks. After the fish is cooked, the bones will food that is easily available throughout the whole Island. Try from the paste and begins to convert into a deep mahogany be meticulously removed from the tender flesh. The pieces it if you have a chance and you will definitely agree with me color that releases pungent aroma, coconut milk will then be of fish will then be added to the coconut gravy which will that a bowl of Laksa provides a satisfying food experience added to the cooked paste. Few pieces of citrusy kaffir lime deliciously further enhance the flavor. Nyona’s Laksa will not you’ll discover in Singapore! leaves are then added along with kerisik ( a toasted coconut have fish in the coconut gravy but instead use the technique of Liza can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org, for any paste) and left to cook slowly until the gravy thickens. Season flavoring with shrimp stock. An addition of tofu puffs, sliced further information.
Totto... Wait for it... Ramen
Continued from page 3 exceeds the expected hour. But my name is finally called out. We entered the shop and were seated at the counter, the best seat in house. And I didn’t even have to bribe anyone! Immediately the heat from the huge open kettle pot blasts warmth and rich flavors in my face, like I took a dive at a hot spring made of chicken stock. We ordered right away; I know my spirits have reached their second wind by this time. I asked for the Chicken Paitan Ramen, filled with house
made noodles, onions, scallions, char siu ground pork sliced pork belly, nori with a premium soy sauce base topped with a soft boiled egg. The serving of their ramen can be satisfying enough, but I like to order kaedama, or a second helping of noodles (granted that you haven’t already slurped all the broth.) Let me tell you, this bowl of heaven is no match to my pathetic attempt at ramen back in my dorm! I find out that the broth is made purely from whole chickens and some aromatics that are simmered for at least 6 hours. The whole
chickens are surrounded in a thick clothe-like-bag that is tied on the side of the pot, extracting all the wonderful flavors from the meat and bones. The cook strains off the liquid with a chinois, making sure to refine the clarity of the broth. Slices of broiled pork belly are held in a half sheet tray arrange to shingle, and then torched on both sides before placed in the bowl with the noodles and garnishes. The key to enjoying this experience is taking your time and knowing what you’re having and the sequence of eating. Have a sip of broth, take a bite of the pork belly, grab a few noodles, and stick your head near the bowl, slurp and repeat. The richness of the flavor, the simple garnishes and the wonderful aroma cleared any doubts of this being one of the top ramen spots in New York City. Saving the broth for the kaedama is nearly impossible, but since I waited this long for a table, I’m ordering some sake as well. I did forget to mention the appetizers: delicately seared pieces of uni served over seasoned rice and thin flakes of nori, a steamed pork bun with a spread of mayo and a “meatball” bun special. What’s after dinner? I’m reluctant to leave our counter seats for the next two people in line outside of Totto Ramen. As we leave the door and say farewell to the staff, I tap the person who seems to be the 8th person in line and give him my personal approval nod and thumbs up. “Wait for it,” I added, feeling like I just left heaven.
March 22, 2013
FOOD & BEVERAGE
Hudson River Region: A Sense of Place Recently, a local winemaker was kind enough to send me a sample bottle of wine to taste, and it was terrific. According to the written blurb accompanying the wine, the wine was estate-bottled, made from grapes grown on the winery’s own vineyards, here in the Hudson River Region American Viticultural Area (AVA). I was excited to taste the wine, and was even more excited that the wine was superb in my glass and on my palate. But something was wrong. Here was a wonderful and truly local wine made with care and passion, but the wine label did not read “Hudson River Region,” it read “New York State.” Usually, when a wine produced in the Hudson Valley carries the New York State appellation it means that, by law, at least 25% - and usually a lot more – of the grapes were grown elsewhere in New York State, possibly in the Finger Lakes or Long Island wine regions. But such was not the case with this wine. In an e-mail, I asked the winemaker “If this is an ‘Estate’ wine, why is the appellation New York State, not the Hudson River Region AVA?” The answer surprised me. The winemaker assured me that the wine was estate-bottled – “grown here in our vineyard” - with no grapes brought in from other New York State regions, but “the Hudson Valley does not have the best of reputations, and when I enter any of my wines in contests, they seem to do better with a New York State rather than a Hudson Valley (label).” In my e-mail response I then had to ask: “How will the AVA ever surmount its perceived reputation if the best estate-bottled wines made in the region don’t use the Hudson River Region AVA name on the label?” I never got a response to my question. The “contests” that the winemaker referred to are, of course, wine competitions that can add to a wine’s reputation and the overall reputation of the winery with consumers. As someone who has judged several wine competitions, including the Hudson Valley Wine Competition three times, my experience has been exactly the opposite of the winemaker’s. I, and many of my fellow judges, have looked first and foremost for true Hudson Valley wines, wines that express a sense of place that can be ascribed to our local vineyards.
While it’s always a wonderful experience to taste a fine wine, that experience is heightened when you know you are tasting a wine that is the product of local terroir – the environmental imperatives of soil type, sunshine, rain, wind, elevation – that conspire to create a unique wine. People who are willing to pay serious money for wine do not do so based solely on the grape varietal, but the place in which that grape grows. We call some of the most exquisite sparkling wines on the planet Champagne because that’s where the vineyards are. We don’t call it “Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier with Bubbles.” Great white Burgundy is by law 100% Chardonnay, but we call it (for example), Puligny-Montrachet or Meursault, the villages that contain those Chardonnay vineyards. We don’t call esteemed estate-bottled red Bordeaux wines “a Cabernet/ Merlot Blend,” we call them Château Mouton-Rothschild or Château Margaux. We name these terroir-driven Old World wines, and others such as Rioja or Chianti or Barolo, for the place that nurtures the vines, not the vines themselves. Even in the New World, where we most often name our wines for varietals, “place” is still important. Would you pay as much money for a “Cabernet Sauvignon labeled “California” as you would for one labeled “Napa Valley,” or a Pinot Noir labeled “Oregon” instead of “Willamette Valley?” Closer to home, how about a “Finger Lakes” Riesling versus a “New York State” bottling, or a “Hudson River Region” Cabernet Franc (a grape that can perform beautifully here) versus a “New York State” version? A Hudson River Region Seyval Blanc (one of our leading hybrid grapes) versus a New York State Seyval Blanc? I am the last person to tell our local wine producers how to sell their wines or conduct their businesses. I appreciate that wine is agriculture, and that Hudson Valley winemakers, like all farmers, have to work hard to make their lives economically sustainable. But as someone who believes that the community of winemakers in the Hudson Valley is capable of producing fine, even world class wines, I think it is important to promote the quality of the wine produced here, especially when those wines rise to that high level. Our best winemakers are now producing wines that can share the table with many of the world’s best bottles, and it’s important
that everyone drinking that wine know – and remember – that the grapes are grown and the wine is produced in the Hudson River Region AVA. If wine drinkers become aware that these extraordinary wines exhibit a sense of local place they will take them seriously and seek them out. That can only be good for the reputation of the entire Hudson Valley wine industry. Of course, some Hudson Valley wine producers choose to work with fruit sourced from other parts of New York State, or even other states such as California. Sometimes these producers don’t own any vineyard land or enough vineyard land to grow enough grapes to remain economically viable. Alternately, some producers may choose to produce wines from grapes that don’t do as well here in the Hudson Valley as they might do in Long Island (Merlot comes to mind). For these wines the “New York State” appellation makes sense. In addition, the wines may be quite good, and their production helps to nurture and expand the local wine industry. These wines, while they do not reflect the terroir of the Hudson Valley, still can be well-made and true to varietal type, and will certainly help to spread the word that good wine is being made here. I guess I want to encourage those Hudson Valley wine producers that are making their wines from grapes grown in local vineyards to be proud of what they have accomplished, and not to worry about what I can only describe as ill-informed, inexperienced, or just plain ignorant judges of wine competitions who prefer the generic qualities of New York State wines to the complex profile of Hudson River Region wines. I know that last year, when I judged the Hudson Valley Wine Competition, I was happy to see far more labels sporting the Hudson River Region AVA than ever before. Did I fall in love with every wine just because it featured the local appellation on the label? Of course not. Some of the truly local wines were extraordinarily fine, some quite good, some needed work, but those type of results would be the same the world over, whether the wines being judged came from the Rhône Valley of France or the Douro Valley of Portugal, the Napa Valley of California, the Willamette Valley of Oregon, or the Hudson Valley of New York.
BY: Michael Earle, BPS Baking & Pastry So for the first return edition of Brew of the Block, I have chosen to go back home to a brewery in Michigan. The
first brew is Founders Brewing Company’s Curmudgeon Old Ale. Before we get into the tasting, let us take a little history lesson.
Founders Brewing Company was founded in 1997 in Grand Rapids, Michigan by Mike Stevens and Dave Engbers. They have won many awards, including the Silver Medal at the 2010 Great American Beer Festival for the Curmudgeon Old Ale. The being the “sister” to the barleywine, the old ale is similarly high in alcohol. This traditional British ale typically drank during the winter time to assist with keeping warm, was often high in alcohol content. Typically this style has many age-related characteristics associated with “stale” beers. Old ales can either be aged and then blended with differing ages to achieve the desired flavor profile, or aged and then served straight up. Founders’ Curmudgeon Old Ale is a great example of a true old ale. Upon pouring you see a fantastic copper/ amber color. The aroma brings on some dried apricot, caramel, and a hint of vanilla most likely from the vanillin found in the oak barrels it is aged in. The flavor is very malty, along with a slight char from the oak. The 50 International Bittering Units of hops gives this beer a nice finishing dry bitterness. The ABV is a little on the high side to be considered an old ale, but the 9.8% sure makes sure you keep to sipping. Overall I find this beer to be an excellent example of the old ale style. Any suggestions for the next edition please contact LaPapillote via their email: LaPapillote@mycia.net
BY: Stephen Kolpan, CIA Professor
Brew of the Block
Graduation Speaker: Michael H. Garbin ’76, CEC, AAC Since 1992, Michael Garbin has been the executive chef of the Union League Club of Chicago, a private social club located in downtown Chicago, IL. The Club was established in 1879 to “uphold the sacred obligations of citizenship, to promote honesty and efficiency in government, and to support cultural institutions and the beautification of the city.” In 2009, Club Leaders Forum named it the number one private city club in the country. A 1976 graduate of The
22 Bowens Kevin Donovan ABC Kitchen Gabriela Calderon ABC Kitchen Jun Hee Park Alinea Douglas Alley Alinea Ian Cairns Aureole Ji Hoon Lee Babbo Seunghyun Lee Boca Raton Resort Yolanda Lee Cholon Bradley Nelson Colicchio & Sons Chat Suansilphong Commander’s Palace Andrew Neale Del Posto Chae Eun Im Domenica Jennifer Davis Fat Duck Michael Camilleri Fresh Company Noorliza Mohd Kassim Gate Gourmet Catherine Grefig Gigi Trattoria Donghyuck Yang HMS Host Owen Bogart Incanto Ana Timmis JW Marriott Grand Lakes Kendra Fremont Le Bernardin David Huertas L’Espalier Nicolas Cadavid Botero Lodge at Pebble Beach Paul Wensel Lola Bistro Gina Myers Mandarin Oriental Miriam Havens McCrady’s Marley Brown Metz- Blue Cross of NEPA Jean Vazquez Michael’s Genuine Food/ Drink Ray Melendi Nestle Neil Martin Ninety Acres Skyler Ring Ninety Acres Kendall Gilligan Omni Champions Brian Hendrickson Park Avenue Byron Martinez Park Hyatt Seoul HeemYung Seo Peninsula Beverly Hills Justin Schwartz Pre Se/Il Capriccio’s, NJ Nicolas Polito Ray’s & Star Bar Justin Hooper Restaurant August Madeline Carpenter Sam’s Gedney Way Kyle Nelson Saveur Magazine Sahar Siddiqi Spago Kumiko Tanaka Stowe Mountain Lodge Thomas Malz Volt Jong Son Watercolor Inn Jonathon Gargano Watercolor Inn Shelby Newport WDW-Artist Point Aaron Hodge Four Seasons Jonathan Tsukaguchi
Baking and Pastry Group STUDENT
Alejandra Estefania Seunghwan Allison Alexia Samantha Esther Lea Katherina Bukola Michael Dayna Caitlyn Elizabeth Athena Melissa Caroline
Rodriguez Hoyos Restrepo Hwang McKeever Nguyen Edwards Bove Aclan Ikuomola Woodin Palmer Jarvis Miller Ronquillo Solan Bell
Bakery, The Bar Boulud Brasserie Clio Google Bon Appetit Google Bon Appettit King Arthur Flour Max Ultimate Food Occassions Catering Old Inn on the Green Park Avenue Restaurant Eugene Spago Beverly Hills The Hurricane Club Turning Stone Resort WDW- Polynesian
seurs Bronze Medallion, and receiving the Silver Plate Award from the International Foodservice Manufacturers Association. With an eye towards advancing the future of his profession, Michael Garbin has been a supporter of culinary educational programs in Chicago and elsewhere by providing internship and work opportunities for students and graduates, as well as job shadowing programs with Chicago Public Schools. As a dedicated alumnus of The Culinary Institute of America, Chef Garbin has served the college as a Fellow, member of the Alumni Council, and host to events for CIA alumni each year during the National Restaurant Association show in Chicago. Committed to raising awareness about hunger, Chef Garbin became involved in Share Our Strength’s Taste of the Nation in 1987 as a participant, co-chair, or committee chairman in Denver, Phoenix, and Chicago. In 1995, he went to Washington, DC as the representative from Illinois to participate in events sponsored by the ACF’s Chef & Child Foundation. In addition to his CIA degree, Michael Garbin also holds an associate degree in liberal arts from Orange County Community College in Middletown, NY.
AOS Graduating Class of March 22, 2013
Welcome Back Returning Externs! STUDENT
Culinary Institute of America, Chef Garbin came to Chicago after serving as executive chef for the Mobil five-star Wigwam Resort and Country Club in Litchfield Park, AZ. He was previously executive chef at the Brown Palace Hotel in Denver, CO and the Peabody Hotel in Memphis, TN, and held positions with Sonesta Hotels in Cambridge, MA and New Orleans, LA as well as with the Omni International Hotel in Atlanta, GA. Chef Garbin is also active with, and has been honored by, many industry organizations. He is a life member of the Honorable Order of the Golden Toque in recognition of his “lifetime of dedication to the pursuit of excellence in the culinary arts.”A longtime member of the American Culinary Federation, Chef Garbin is an ACF Certified Executive Chef, a member of the ACF Certification Commission, an Accredited Certification Examiner and Trainer, and chairman of the board and president of the ACFWindy City Professional Culinarians, Inc. In 2008, he was elected to the American Academy of Chefs (AAC), the ACF’s honor society, and was recognized two years later with the AAC’s Sharing Culinary Traditions Award. Chef Garbin’s many other honors include being a three-time recipient of the ACF Presidential Medallion, earning the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtis-
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Baking and Pastry Carissa Kratz Ariana Gallusuo Megan Fritz Ashlinn Somma Noelle Gogg Heather Roebbeke Ashley Kotcho Linnea Prejean
Sarah Cane Victoria McCormick Shannon Haggerty Kevin Sokol Sean Walsh Nicole Corona Jacky Settler
Culinary Arts Group #1 Kayla Stock Kristina Colon Kelsey Wonsarage Mam Lester Nicole Cancuni Ann Kim April Williams
Roman Nikolin Josh Fosk Paul Assunah Mike Moschitlo Vincenzo Loseto Tim Warnisk Ciro Fodern
Culinary Arts Group #2 Eric Anderson David Landen Julian Woo Caitlin Abruzzo Barbara Garcia Matt Sporer Elliot Lewis Sean O’Regan Shae Tucker Greg Bottega
Michael Gayle Ryan Carroll Jordan Williams Adam Bean Dalton Wampler Gabriel Macdonald Anthony Attanajio Andrew Bosi Robert S. Adamski
Culinary Arts Group #3 Jacob Sattler Francisco Gonzalez Helen Morganto Gabrielel Verducci Robert DiFrancia John Streett Peter Fridz
Dylan Rutherford Matthew McIntyre Bobby Praduchith Daniel Jarosz Doug Ferrell Christopher Garner Daniel Griffiths
Culinary Arts Group #4 Joshua Begley Corey Fox La Rae Willis Abigail Pierce Timothy J. Kelly
Trevor Crum Michael Ellish Nicole Perry Mark D. Bolchoz Max Ng
March 22, 2013
Crossword Puzzle: Student Government ADJOURNED
MEETING MICHAEL EARLE MICHAEL MCCAREY MINUTES OPEN FLOOR PASTRY PRESIDENT PR MANAGER REPRESENTATIVE SEAN APPEL SECRETARY STUDENT TIM FOLEY VICE PRESIDENT WORKSHOP YAAKOV GELB ZAC HOFFMAN
BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary Culinary Fundamentals sucks. Okay, maybe that’s too harsh of a statement. But anyone who tells you that it isn’t hard is lying. I mean, let’s be real: It starts off utterly chaotic, becomes really frustrating in the middle, and then you kind of get over the hump and think you’ve mastered it, only to be kicked in the teeth again and have your confidence decimated. Learning anything new can be trying. And learning new things along with a roomful of people you don’t know is even worse. Add high pressure, 6 - 8 hours of intense physical work, and being graded on top of that, and you’ve got a recipe for stress and discombobulation. As previously mentioned in this column, I’ve endured a lot of layoffs. I know the drill. The first two weeks of any new job are exhausting. It’s like your brain doesn’t
want to absorb details, learning new routines and tasks feels like wading through mud, and all that polite small talk with people is draining. I want to swear and be myself. I want to decompress with wine. Mostly, I want to curl up in my bed and not have to do new and unfamiliar things all day. Guess what? In Culinary Fundamentals, it’s all new. And sometimes, the 18 year old you’re working beside is still sleeping with a teddy bear. “My sockies just got wet!” she squeals. It’s tough to justify dropping choice words around such cuteness. Plus, I don’t want to be responsible for corrupting her. So, I’m polite, I’m nice, but on the inside, I’m frustrated, losing confidence, and I’m tired. Oh, and my back hurts, because I’m old. Turns out, the traditional-age students actually feel
pretty much the same way. And, it turns out, they’re doing a lot more than sleeping with teddy bears. But I digress. The truth is, the newness of everything and the physicality of the tasks we’re doing wears everyone out. The first few weeks, no one wants to admit it. You eye everyone else up carefully to see if you’re at least an average performer, an assessment that you would be grateful for because you really don’t know what the heck is going on in class. Everyone else seems to know what they’re doing but you. And everyone else seems to do it better than you. Why am I the only one who feels lost? No one else is asking questions, they must know what they’re doing. I’m a smart person, how am I the stupidest person in this class? And why am I so tired? It took me three weeks to finally get up the nerve to ask other people if they were exhausted after CF class. It seemed like the entire table of students heaved a sigh of relief when I said something. “I go take a nap after every class,” the “sockies” girl confessed. I wanted to hug her. It felt so validating to find out that I had no energy not because I am 41, but because this class is tough. It’s funny, too, because after that, we all opened up and started talking about it, and we started talking about our insecurities and doubts about ourselves. Everyone feels the same. What a revelation! And then a funny thing happened: Everyone started to support each other. We recognized strengths and weaknesses in each other and tried to assist each other in class. We performed according to our abilities instead of worrying what other people thought about us. We complimented each other. We starting really being ourselves, and even started swearing, all of us, “Sockies” included. We became a class, and much to our amusement, we morphed into our own little dysfunctional family. We realized that you can’t work intensely with sixteen people in a small kitchen, stepping on each other’s toes, getting each other sick, and being in each other’s way without a little bit of tension. We also learned that tension can be good – it teaches the better performers patience and it teaches the outliers to step up their game. The emotions that I went through during the first few weeks of class – bewilderment, confusion, frustration, insecurity, tension, anger – have simmered down into acceptance of both my own and my classmates’ shortcomings, as well as recognition and admiration of their strengths and talents. I see that same perspective from everyone in class, and as we get comfortable with each other, it seems to have settled into an underlying motivation to master the things we’re learning together as a group. We are currently on week ten, and “Day 20, Shallow Poaching” starts tomorrow as I write this. We’ve been in this for ten weeks now, and we have four weeks to go. Even now, it’s not all unicorns and rainbows. We have good days and bad days at this point, but the really ugly, clueless days seem to be behind us. The infighting and complaints have died down and there is true harmony within our group. What I have learned so far, in addition to consomme, hollandaise, and poaching, is that learning something new is exhausting and painful, it makes you insecure and causes you to doubt yourself. It can be painful and lumpy and uncomfortable. It can cause you to get frustrated with yourself or lash out at the sweetest, most innocent, 18-year-old, teddy-bear-loving face beside you. However, in continuing to move through the learning process, something else emerges: Confidence that you can handle it, and most importantly, real friendship. We all stumble sometimes. Sometimes we stumble as a group and really get on our chef’s nerves. It happens. We can do well one day and crash and burn the next. The one thing we know at this point is, we’re all in it together. Dedicated to my sixteen new best friends, K-4’s Tuesday and Wednesday 6AM class. I couldn’t imagine this torture with anyone but you guys!
Published on Mar 22, 2013
Published on Mar 22, 2013
La Papillote is a tri-weekly newspaper published by The Culinary Institute of America. Editor-in-Chief is Stephanie Kirkland. Any comments o...