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Volume 32, No.15

Chef Kampff ’s Garde Manager presentation Photo Credit: Dan Castro

Some examples of the complex and amazing dishes that were made at the CMC exam 2012

Credit for all three photos: Dan Castro CULINARY CULTURE

ON CAMPUS

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P 4-5

FOOD & BEVERAGE

CENTER SPREAD

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BACK PAGE

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Editorial

LA PAPILLOTE

From the Editor’s Desk

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

At The Culinary Institute of America, we have an advantage like no other: competition. Competitive opportunity lives in the blood of those that walk through these hallways and it thrives there. So many social and developmental connections can, and have been, made for centuries through this sportsman-like amity.

August 17, 2012

PUBLISHER

The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Jocelynn M. Neri

LAYOUT EDITOR

Sydney Estrada

ADVERTISING MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS

Chef Freddy Brash

Casey Janawoski Alex Holyk

Dan Castro Eric Jenkins Amie Valpone Josh Venne

Sue Haug

In approximately three-and-a-half months, renowned Chef Rich Rosendale and Commis Corey Siegel will be going head to head with Aubrey King Nicole Vincent the best and the brightest of the entire World at the Bocuse D’Or in Lyon, Stephanie Kirkland France. I have been following Chef Rosendale’s career, as well as Chef Bianca Swanepoel Siegel after having met them at both the CMC exam and the Bocuse D’Or Giulianna Galiano Jeanne Casagrande when I was in the AOS program. From what I have seen these two do, I Samantha Lindmeier feel there is nothing that will get in their way this year. Perhaps America will finally win culinary gold.

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

On a smaller, but equally important scale, chefs from across the nation came together this August at CIA for arguably the most prestigious culinary exam in America. Some of these candidates were seasoned veterans that I had the opportunity of apprenticing for last year, while others were new to me. Clearly, from the excellence they showed over the week, they were no newbies in the competitive scene. With the Olympic trials recently coming to a close and all the recent gold being brought home to the USA, I thought that this issue needed to reflect just how important culinary competition is, especially here at the CIA. Without that intensity and drive to be the best, the life of a culinarian would be rather dull. On another note, I would like to say thank you and a warm goodbye to Jacquie Palmer! You have been a great layout editor. Congratulations on your well-deserved graduation!

With love & fire,

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Jocelynn M. Neri, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net

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LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

Sydney Estrada (Layout Editor)

SE853582@mycia. net

Eric Jeffay (Copy Editor) EJ737745@ mycia.net

Blayre Miller (Copy Editor) BM680250@ mycia.net

Dan Castro (Photographer)

daniel.castro210@ gmail.com


August 17, 2012

Culinary Culture

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BY:CHEF FREDDY BRASH, CIA Instructor Ever wonder what the CIA Chefs do on their vacation? In restaurants, we usually are lucky to have one day off during the week. On those days we pray that the Chef doesn’t call to say that somebody in the kitchen didn’t show up and there are 200 people on the books. When it comes to vacation, seven days is usually the most that we receive annually. However, as an instructor, I speak for all of us when I say how grateful we are for our two long vacations here at CIA. My vacation was quite simple: I went to the beach, put on my Merrell water shoes, and dove in! I really enjoyed floating in that salt water while and looking up at that blue sky. It made me feel very grateful. Chef Speckamp: I went to Munich (Bavaria) where I spent my childhood and my career. Of course it was great visiting family and getting a sampling of my favorite family foods such as Kaesespaetzle, a german pasta dish, Dampfnudeln, and Pfifferlinge mit Semmelknoedel, which are two types of dumplings. I also had the opportunity to attend a festival, which among other things featured a Oktoberfest type beer tent which seats 4000 people. I walked away very impressed with the food operation. They were roasting about one hundred chickens at a time on a spit along with hundreds of nice crispy pork shanks. They also served countless schnitzels and sausages that were seared on flat tops. The beer was pretty good too! I also visited a dairy farm and cheese maker in the mountains and learned about Heumilch, which means cows are fed only hay that is not stored in silos. The farmer gave me a glass of fresh buttermilk to try, which was the best I have ever tasted. Professor Mosher: My wife, Debbie and I spent Thursday through Sunday of each week exploring the Adirondacks. On weekends we tend to the farm business. Luckily for us Brittany, our daughter, did a good job taking care of the farm during the week. We drove on logging roads in our 4x4 truck to remote areas, sometimes having to clear the road with a chainsaw. It was an exciting trip, but the biggest concern was getting trapped by a storm and having to wait for heavy equipment to clear the way. One storm came up quickly and dropped the temperature to 57 degrees when it was 99 degrees in the Hudson Valley. We never had cell phone coverage, and on a couple of days never saw another person. Mostly we fished and could have caught hundreds of brook trout, a small with pretty pink flesh. Occasionally we caught a bigger brown or rainbow. After finding a great site on a small lake with a nice view and a pair of nesting loons to keep us company, and a sighting of a large black bear, we settled on a campground. We brought our 17 foot Grumman canoe and explored the backwaters. One of our hikes at about 8 miles, 2000 vertical feet was an intense and lethal climb! Apparently my large dinners don’t provide the cardio I needed that day because I had really felt the after-effects. However, I still was proud of myself until later that day when I read a forum where a group of 70 year olds plan to do the same hike later this fall. Chef Le Roux: Bonjour I spent my vacation in Europe. In Brittany for our first week it was rainy and cold but we still enjoyed a fresh seafood platter with Muscadet, buckwheat pancakes with different garnishes and of course you cannot be in France without always enjoying a baguette with jambon and butter. Then we went to Tuscany under beautiful weather, visiting Pisa, Florence, Luccas and the Chianti regions, enjoying local food and wine. Then back to France and Paris, climbing the Eiffel Tower under sunny skies with my wife and two grandsons. It is 700 steps up! We enjoyed pastries at Laduree and a beer on the Champs Elysees. After we went back to Brittany for the last week and enjoyed the beach and Moules frites and a baguette. It was a great vacation although I put on 8 pounds in 3 weeks. A bientot, Chef Le Roux Chef Velie:(Chef Velie teaches at our Singapore campus) During this July, I went to Bali for three days before leaving Singapore. I was interested in all Vermont had to offer so I took a trip there as well. I went to Ben and Jerry’s ice cream, Lake Champlain chocolaterie and finished my time there at Magic Hat Brewery. Chef Cynthia Keller: This vacation we were in the village of my grandparents, Kastraki, which is in central Greece on the plains of Thessaly, overlooking the Pindus Mountain Range. The village is nestled at the base of the rocks that make up the Meteor. The rocks are topped with ancient Byzantine Monasteries, some of which are built from caves in the rocks. In this area of mountain cuisine they offer a lot of grilled lamb, chicken and pork with side salads of wild greens, lots of cheeses and lots of phyla pies (easily transported by the shepherds). During our travels, my grandparents and I were stuck in a few traffic jams, one while a shepherd was herding his flock across a mountain road. I was driving and my husband was doing all of the directing, “pass him…no wait it’s a bull and look at those horns!” Finally, the cows moved and the bull stayed on the yellow line. It was much different then your average New York City jam, but worth it for the yummy cheese! Chef’s of the Future I hope all had a good break with a lot of family, food and rest. Back to the grind as they say!


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BY: Bianca Swanepole, AOS Baking and Pastry

Apprentices on the move.

A plate worth judging.

The sweet aroma of frying butter, braised lamb and garlic is in the air. They’re all frantic. Heck, I’m frantic. They’re pacing back and forth and the volunteers are working like eager soldiers on the frontline. The Certified Master Chef exam has come around once again, and esteemed chefs in the industry have had the chance to prove themselves in one of the hardest tests of their profession. Day by day, chefs are disqualified trying to meet the standards, while the others carry on fighting for the title. This is an eight-day test with each day becoming more and more difficult than the one before. Day four was the classic French cuisine day, where each chef has to take their personal interpretation of Escoffier (that explains the butter smell). Certified Master Chef and an official judge of the CMC exam 2012, J. Kevin Walker, explains that each chef needs to comprehend modern trends and equipment in order to execute these tasks. Though Escoffier’s food is seen as more of a traditional type of cuisine (and arguably the beginning of haute cuisine), the method’s users need to know how to adapt these recipes for our contemporary world. One great example that Walker used was that Escoffier mentioned in his book how monkfish is basically not something worth cooking. However, today it is a widely eaten and enjoyed fish because of the way it has progressed in American Cuisine. Angel Garcia, an ACE program graduate, was the CIA Volunteer Supervisor. He took time from his busy schedule managing his own restaurant in Mexico, and drove the 2500 miles to our Hyde Park campus just to be able to watch the exam. “It’s a great drive,” he says, boyishly excited. He marvels at the chefs, exclaiming “it’s a world of knowledge in here.” He didn’t hesitate when asked if he would ever consider doing the CMC exam. He just cannot wait until that opportunity comes for him.

Among all of the lab-coat-judges and CIA soldiers, was an AOS baker volunteer named Rachel. She found an e-mail asking for volunteers for the exam. Despite working in the sweeter wing of CIA, she thought it would be interesting to “check out the other side.” Her reasoning was valid: there is so much being offered and so many opportunities at the CIA, so why not take them? Rachel watched every move, hoping to learn and pick up a few tricks. She too felt the tension and anxiety for the chefs. It is no wonder that the seven initial chefs turned into the last two standing. The CMC exam is probably the most demanding certification of the American Culinary Federation. Actual Certified Master Chefs circle the contestants, watching their every move, giving and docking points for every task and mistake. Be that as it may, to have those three big letters next to your name, along with the personal victory and automatic associated respect and opportunities that come along with it, must be worth all the preparation.

An intense judgement. All Photos by Bianca Swanepole

BY: Alex Holyk, BPS Culinary The CIA’s growth has accelerated at a blistering pace recently. Within the past half-decade, the school doubled its number of campuses, held over a dozen major industry conferences, and has begun to offer various certificates and variants of its plethora of degree opportunities. Our own Hyde Park campus just completed construction of the townhouses; making the Lodges, which range from five to eight years old, seem out of date. We hosted the national finals for the Bocuse d’Or twice, are currently overhauling the Escoffier Room, and regularly host chiefly culinary legends like Ferran Adrià and Emeril Lagasse. However, these events stretch the capacity of CIA to accommodate them. The superstars attract too large a crowd for Danny Kaye Theater, and are relegated to the gym. Meanwhile, some graduations include so many people that even the gym cannot contain them, and they must be held entirely off-campus. The Marriott Pavilion aims to curb this problem and fill the need for a large venue. While Danny Kaye Theater has about 150 seats, the Marriott Pavilion will comprise two and a half floors, including a balcony, and the main floor alone contains about 800 seats. With a total of 42,000 square feet inside, and covering a footprint of just 15,000 square feet, it will connect to both the J. Willard Marriott Education Center, the Shunsuke Takaki baking building, and St. Andrew’s Café. Despite the connection to the Café, there will not necessarily be direct access between those two buildings. The Pavilion will include a conference center,

seminar rooms, and a theater-style demonstration kitchen; it integrates audience-response technology and videoconferencing capability. The true heart of the building, though, will be the stage. It will offer a large, versatile space, perfect for artistic performances, dynamic speakers, and community meetings. “I feel personally that the Marriott Pavilion is a screaming omission from our campus”, says Denise Mazzei, an officer in the school’s Advancement department. “There really is no convening place here on the Hyde Park campus where we can host large groups of people, and, most importantly, for our graduations.” For those jealous of Greystone’s “Worlds of Flavor” or San Antonio’s “Latin Flavors, American Kitchens”, our own major yearly conference is already planned to take advantage of the space. The CIA will partner with the Harvard School of Public Health to produce what they’re calling “Menus of Change”, which will focus on issues related to nutrition, sustainability, and flavor. The Marriott Pavilion has been in the works for some time now. Estimated to cost about $21 million, the initial $5 million investment came from the J. Willard and Alice S. Marriott Foundation in 2007. Ms. Mazzei went on to say that the rest of that is coming from a mix of donors and other funding sources, and the CIA will responsibly manage the debt. This new addition to our campus completes one more piece to the puzzle, as set down in the school’s “master plan”, created with the help of Noelker and Hull Associates, Inc. Such plans are often created

based on a business’ long-term strategy, though individual pieces may be changed or scrapped over time based on market needs. Even so, the Institute prioritizes these projects logically, with the intention that we will get what we need, when we need it, and without impeding the basic functioning of the school. Other eventual additions will likely include a culinary wing and a retail marketplace to Roth Hall, and an extension to the gym. Michael Hull designed the Marriott Pavilion; his firm is also behind the plans for Anton Plaza, the Student Housing Village, the Admissions Building, and a 138-room hotel near campus whose construction has been delayed. Further questions regarding the Marriott Pavilion or other campus plans should be directed to Dr. Victor Gielisse, Vice President of Advancement and Business Development, or Denise Mazzei. The trees have already been cleared from the area in which the Marriott Pavilion will be built, straw has been laid down in some of its future footprint, and signs have been posted illustrating the planned exterior. The groundbreaking should occur in September and the construction is anticipated to last about fourteen months. Beyond the occasional crane rolling down the street, the construction is expected to minimally interfere with traffic, parking, and classes. The Pavilion will be completed at the end of 2012 or early 2013. It is anticipated that this project will help keep the Hyde Park campus of the Culinary Institute of America front and center in the public eye.


August 17, 2012

ON CAMPUS

A moment of serious thought Photo Credit: Bonjwing Lee, The Ulterior Epicure

President Tim Ryan and SGA President Eric Jenkins Photo credit: Dan Castro

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LA PAPILLOTE

CENTER SPREAD

We all know that if you set out for something; a title, position, career, or goal, with hard work and dedication you can get the gold. In Kayla Stock’s case, the intrigue and guidance from various Chefs and mentors throughout the Culinary Institute of America was what was needed to do just that. Stock, an AOS Culinary student, placed first with a gold medal in the national post-secondary culinary arts competition at the Skills USA National Leadership Conference that was held in Kansas City recently. The CIA chapter of Skills USA has been around for eight years. During that time students working right beside us in kitchens campus wide, have won eight New York state competitions and have placed seven times the national level, five times with gold medals and twice with silver. There is also a Skills USA Worlds Competition every year, which would be the next option for her to compete in. I wondered, how does one become involved in Skills USA? I know of people who got their start in competitions during various high school culinary programs throughout the country, but was surprised to learn that the only background Stock had was in fast food experience. After her culinary fundamentals teacher, Chef Velie, mentioned that she would be a good candidate for the competition, she was surprised, “It was hard for me to believe. Throughout the process I learned so much about how to function in a kitchen, and the confidence [helps to] not doubt myself.” With talk of Skills being passed around campus, and weekend competitions among students to see who can bring more to the table, as well as various competition scholarships and awards that are out there, Stock decided to check it out for herself. “Really all that started my competitions was going to a simple Skills USA informative meeting and taking it

BY: STEPHANIE KIRKLAND, AOS Culinary from there, putting in all the effort I could. I worked weekends, afternoons, mornings, all to perfect my skills so I could end up where I am today. [It was] definitely worth all the effort.” Commitment to this competition meant flying from Columbus, Ohio back here to Hyde Park on weekends in between her externship a couple of times to converse and meet with Chef Mullooly about everything from timelines to plating, “Which helped me feel a lot more relieved since during the first two competitions [regionals and states] I was able to practice every weekend and worried that my distance could be a problem.” Feeling more confident and headed to Kansas City, Stock prepped, cooked, and blew the judges away with her menu consisting of: Crunchy Vegetable and Chicken Salad Tomato Fondue, Pickled Cucumber, Grain Mustard Vinaigrette Lentil Soup Crispy Bacon, Chives, Croutons Sauteed Chicken Breast Vegetable Filled Steamed Crepes, Pesto, Celery Root, Madeira Reduction, Crispy Potato Strings

“The competition was crazy, unbelievable at points, and I loved every second of it.” Post-secondary competitors had a market basket concept and were able to write out and develop their own menu and recipes the night before the competition. I’m getting stressed out just thinking about what must have been running through Stock’s head as she tried to configure the best menu, for judges to awe over, especially with her scrutinizing prep work all day. During her four-course menu, and full day competition, both hot and cold food preparations were presented to judges. The contestants were rated on their organization, knife skills, cooking techniques, creative presentation, sanitation food safety techniques, and above all, the quality and flavor of their prepared items. I was just as curious about the competitors as I was about the degree of competition Stock participated in. When asking, she disclosed that for the most part, they were cool, and congratulated her on her winnings. However, as in any competition there were some ruffled feathers, with some unnecessary comments even being made at the awards ceremony by those who didn’t place. As for Stock, ignorance is bliss, “When you just won a national competition there isn’t much that can bring you down.” On behalf of all of us here at the Culinary, Congratulations Kayla on this amazing accomplishment!

Butter and Citrus Poached Salmon Summer Grain Salad, Vegetable Medley, Lemon Beurre Blanc

BY: Samantha Lindmeier, AOS Culinary Arts

Gymnast Gabby Douglas Photo: www.workitoutgym.com

Every four years we all await the arrival of the Olympics, but what is it about the Olympics that fascinates and compels us to spend hours upon hours watching them? Is it because of the breathtaking opening ceremonies? Is it the way nations unite together in a way that would never happen otherwise? Is it to become part of one of the most historical events in our time? I believe it is all of these things and the sheer love of competition. We all love competing, especially here at the Culinary Institute of America. Competition is what drives us to wake up in the morning and do our best, and then pushing to do even better than that. It’s what keeps the fire alive in all of us. Our USA Olympic team definitely know a thing or two about competing. Michael Phelps, who amazed us all in Athens and then again in Beijing, has yet again surprised us. Phelps, 27, blew us all away in Beijing in 2008 when he took home 8 gold medals which brought him closer to his lifetime ambition. When he came to the London 2012 Olympics he needed 3 medals of any

kind to become the most decorated Olympian of all time, and he did just that. He now has 22 Olympic medals for swimming, defeating Soviet gymnast Larisa Latynina who recently held the title with 18 medals. Now retired, Phelps has been a hero to the American people since Beijing and he continues to astound us. The question is will anyone beat his new record next year in Rio De janeiro in 2016? Michael Phelps was not the only American athlete to make history this year in the games; sixteen-year-old gymnast Gabby Douglas definitely turned a few heads at these Olympics. Douglas wasn’t a very well-known gymnast nor did anyone think she would amount to all that she amounted to. Jordyn Wieber was the current world champion at the time when Douglas went to the American Cup Olympic preview event at Madison Square Gardens in New York City. Douglas astounded everyone by placing higher than Wieber, which made her a part of the USA Olympic Gymnastics team. Douglas was definitely the girl for the job. In an interview she started talking about

how pressure is what drives her and her love of competition. Douglas not only won medals at the London games, but she won two gold medals for the USA! Douglas is now the first African American to win the individual all-around for gymnastics, and the first American gymnast to win both the individual all-around and the team gold at the Olympics. Gabby Douglas is an inspiration to our whole country on how dedication and commitment to one’s craft is the one true way to make our dreams come true. America now holds a total of 46 gold medals! So congratulations to all of our medal winners and go team USA!


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BY: BLAYRE MILLER, BPS Baking and Pastry, Copy Editor, crumb-coat.blogspot.com Have you ever come across an e-mail in your MyCIA inbox that contains a title exclaiming “Unique Opportunity for CIA students,” or “Students Needed for Important Event”? If you’ve automatically deleted it, you’ve probably just deleted a seriously cool, resumebuilding opportunity, just like the one Chris Wegan experienced early this month. Chris, an AOS Culinary student, was one of the many people who answered Dean Barns’s email asking for apprentices to work side-by-side with the candidates for this year’s Certified Master Chef exam. After sending in several recommendations, writing an essay, checking his transcripts, and even making arrangements to switch his current AM class to PM, Chris was accepted as one of eleven apprentices. The apprentice’s job during the exam is to be the chef’s right hand man (or woman), and make sure that whatever he or she needs gets done on time and correctly, or it could jeopardize that candidate’s final product. Each apprentice was assigned several days out of the week-long, multi-day test, and was paired with a chef each day. Chris explained that each apprentice was assigned to a certain section of the kitchen for that day, and each CMC candidate drew a station number, thus automatically pairing them with an apprentice in the fairest way possible. Testing days started very early, usually around 6 am. First the apprentices and chefs would go over the menu for that day. They would check their req sheets, make sure they had all of their product and equipment in line, and then began that day’s prep. Apprentices did basic mise en place, such as chopping herbs and fabricating vegetables. The actual cooking part was, naturally, left to the CMC candidates. “We weren’t able to apply heat to anything. I couldn’t cook, turn on the stove, nothing,” Chris said. Each group was allowed in the kitchen for four hours to prep and cook, and then allotted a thirty-minute time window to present their food (requirements stated that each candidate must present four courses, each with four plated portions, as well as one platter-style plate containing six portions). I asked Chris if he apprenticed because he was planning on taking the CMC exam in the future. Although he doesn’t have the desire to take the exam, it is clear that because of his past and culinary background, his respect for those that do plan on taking it, or have taken it already, is great. He has worked for several chefs that belong to the American Culinary Federation (the organization that administers the exam), which made him feel comfortable in the CMC kitchen. He also worked for a CIA grad that apprenticed in the past, who recommended that he take part in the experience, and was one of the main reasons that he applied. Now what does it take, exactly, to apply to be an apprentice? What can you learn from an experience like this? “The type of person who goes for the CMC and who wants to apprentice is looking for every opportunity to learn and push themselves to do something interesting,” describes Chris. “It pushed my stress level, and I know that I can handle that level of stress now. You really get to see how people react under pressure.” The CIA provides students with so many different chances to take part in amazing events, cook beside world-renown chefs, and go to some pretty cool places. So the next time you see an email luring you into a unique opportunity, be sure to give it a read. You never know what opportunity awaits!

Chef Baxter during the CMC Exam Photo Credit: Dan Castro Chef Hall and apprentice working diligently Photo Credit: Dan Castro

BY: Aubrey King, BPSCulinary Arts, italktofood.com If we all were to eat like Michael Phelps for one week, we would probably gain twenty pounds. Trust me, I did the math. To maintain his physical shape in the Olympics, he consumes about 12,000 calories a day. That is more than six times an average person’s daily intake. Not to mention his diet is mainly, bread, pasta, pizza, more bread and then a sandwich. All carbohydrates, which as we all know, have been on the dieting naughty list for quite some time. Swimming over fifty miles a week takes some serious refueling, which makes eating a second job for Michael Phelps. Since we all probably won’t be swimming 50 miles a week anytime soon, following Phelps’s diet plan isn’t very smart. However, we might benefit to follow other Olympic athlete’s diets that keep them in incredibly golden shape. Gabby Douglas and Jordan Wieber, the two famous American gymnasts eat lean and green to keep their bodies solid. Both of the young girls eat platefuls of green vegetables and lean meat and fish. With the occasional treat of dark chocolate or mango frozen yogurt, they never feel deprived, which keeps them in balance of not going crazy from all the healthy eating. We have all been to that breaking point when trying to eat healthy and reach for that candy bar in the back of the drawer, but when we treat ourselves every once in a while, that temptation to binge on sweets will subside.

John Roscoe, the male gymnast, eats a large breakfast to energize him for the day. He eats a mondo spread of yogurt, toast, eggs and fruit. To keep his energy levels high, he eats less for the rest of the day to feel lighter on his feet. This is a great tip for those of us that have full day schedules. Eating a large breakfast will fuel the body and set the tone for the rest of the day. Eating carbohydrates like toast paired with protein, like eggs, is the perfect way to get the energy pumping. Oh, and of course a great cup of coffee with breakfast is key to staying animated. When you think it’s all about boring healthy food, stop your thoughts. After an intense workout, soccer Olympiad Heather Mitts refuels with chocolate milk. That’s right, chocolate milk. Filled with protein, sugar, carbohydrates and calcium, chocolate milk is the best way to refuel. No need for fancy protein shakes or Muscle Milk everyone. Eating healthy doesn’t mean we all have to take 80 billion vitamins everyday. Allison Felix says that she tries to eat her nutrients by getting in a lot of green vegetables, fruits, healthy fat and calcium from her food, rather than taking supplements. She highlights her diet by describing that every meal counts, meaning that every meal should have a vegetable, protein and healthy carbohydrate. I am sure we would all love to compete and win the gold medal for The Best Whisker in the World sport, but since that doesn’t exist yet, we could start shaping up our diets with the advice and ideas by the incredible athletes that competed in the 2012 Olympics. http://edition.cnn.com/2012/08/03/sport/olympics-nutritionphelps-blake/index.html http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/jul/26/eat-likeolympian-exercise http://video.today.msnbc.msn.com/today/48300430 Photo: http://www.ptinto.com/healthy_meal.jpg


LA PAPILLOTE

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Getting Drafted at the Bar: The Cocktail

BY: Casey L. Jankoski, BPS Culinary A new trend that is emerging in bars around the country is the draft cocktail. These cocktails are made in large batches and then are dispensed through a tap. Sitting up with the Bud Light and Guinness, on tap cocktails make for a faster service time because the normal mixing and muddling is cut out of the picture. Not every drink would be on tap; only the bars signature or best selling cocktails. If you think about the frozen drinks at the beach, swirling around in those slushy machines, pre-mixing drinks doesn’t seem that crazy. Beer has been on tap in bars, and now even wine, so why not cocktails? Draft drinks can save time, which means money for a bar. What about the customer? What do draft drinks offer to them? For the customer it offers something geeky and unique. The drink also comes much faster. In a world of instant gratification, the draft meets the need for now. This means you are free to carry on with that great story you were telling your friends, or keep a lover’s eyes on you, and not the bartender. Kegging drinks also allows for more stability of the drink. Bartenders can use fresh juices and not worry about them going bad quickly. In addition to stability, many drinks will taste better when they sit around for a bit.

Allowing the flavors to mellow and meld changes the flavor of the drink immensely. Naturally, there are bartenders who do not like this idea. They feel that it’s just a gimmick that will soon fade. Many are upset that the art they have applied to mixing drinks is being wasted. There are others who are taking this to the extreme. The beverage consultants Tippling Bros., comprised of Paul Tanguay and Tad Carducci, are developing a 48-head custom draft system for Tavernita, a new Spanish and Latin inspired restaurant that Mercadito Hospitality plans to open in Chicago this fall. The system will pump out as many as eight cocktails, plus beers, wines, cider, house-made vermouth and house-made sodas. The possibilities for what can be kegged are huge. The cocktails that do best are aperitifs and highball drinks. The creativity of the bartender is not lost with this method either. James Scarpa writes that at Jasper’s Corner Tap & Kitchen. In San Francisco, the Negroni cocktail on draft has become a cult item, as reported by bar manager Kevin Diedrich. This mixture is made up of equal parts Plymouth gin, Campari and house vermouth, the latter a blend of Punt e Mes and Cinzano and it is served on the rocks.

A Cuban restaurant in New York City, El Cobre, is also finding draft cocktails to be extremely popular. It’s Dark and Stormy is made with Gosling’s rum, house-made ginger syrup and fresh lime. Beverage manager Mayur Subbarao originally planned on having a rotation of cocktails, but the Dark and Stormy has been so popular that it has not been replaced yet. They also make a Cuba Libre that has a custom rum blend, house-made cola syrup and fresh lime. Other drinks that are great kegged are margaritas, Pimm’s Cups and Americanos. Whether or not this new trend will stick around is questioned by many bartenders, but draft cocktails offer many things. For the customer, drafts provide speedy service, perfectly proportioned cocktails and a quirky experience. For the bartender, drafts offer portion control, quick patron turnover and almost unlimited creativity. What’s not to love about draft cocktails? Sources: http://nrn.com/article/draft-cocktails-catchbars-patrons

Celebrating like a Brit

BY: Nicole Vincent, BPS Culinary

Lengthy Olympic-viewing sessions can really work up an appetite. After a few hours of superhuman feats of athleticism, nothing hits the spot like a bacon butty. Or a Chelsea bun. Some potted shrimps? Kedgeree? No? Okay, so at first glance, it can be hard to distinguish the delectable from the downright mysterious when it comes to traditional British dishes. But if you’re going to go all-out with your 2012 Olympic experience, it’s worth getting acquainted with some of these quirky monikers and the recipes behind them (and who knows, you could find out that you actually love beans for breakfast). 0If you happen to leave Olympic stadium at any time, day or night, you could probably buy and happily devour a bacon butty. It’s a bacon sandwich, by any other name, and it does go by a few others, such as bacon sarnie, piece ‘n bacon, rasher sandwich, and bacon bap. An authentic butty should be made with back bacon, which is cut from the loin instead of the belly. The bacon should be fried but not crispy, a salty and slightly chewy counterpoint to the crusty, white roll surrounding it. Don’t forget to butter the roll, and off you go, butty in hand. 0The Chelsea bun is another hand-held snack that can be easily consumed while dashing between Olympic events, or perhaps while dashing between

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the glitzy shops in the bun’s namesake neighborhood. Created in the 1700s at the adorably-named Bun House, a favorite of the Hanoverian royalty, the Chelsea bun is a yeast dough spread with currants, brown sugar, and butter, rolled into a round, and topped with a water-sugar mixture while still warm to melt the sugar and glaze the bun. Slightly more delicate than a cinnamon bun, a Chelsea bun is perfectly suited to a strong cup of tea. 0When you’re ready to sit down to a meal in London, you might see potted shrimps on the menu and shy away, visions of grocery-store potted meat chasing you to a safer choice. But fear not. Potted shrimp is brown shrimp in butter, traditionally clarified butter which would act as a preservative by coating the shrimp to keep out air that aerobic bacteria need to grow. The dish is flavored with mace, always, and nutmeg, white pepper, and cayenne sometimes. To round out the meal, you’ll need a few slices of toasted bread and some watercress. A delicious nod to traditional preservation methods and certainly nothing to be afraid of, you could whip up potted shrimp easily on either side of the pond. 0Indian food is everywhere in England, with an emphasis on anglicized versions like chicken tikka masala and creamy kormas. Kedgeree is a mash-

up (literally) of both English and British cuisines: rice, curry, eggs, and fish, usually smoked haddock. Slightly off-putting in both appearance and name, kedgeree is actually a perfect dish for breakfast, exotic and soothing at the same time. The British dish is a derivative of the Indian dish khichri, made up of rice and lentils, sometimes accompanied by hard-boiled eggs and fish. Variations abound, and the exact history of the dish is somewhat muddled, but Kedgeree is, at heart, a tasty collision of cultures, inexpensive and simple to make. 0With British food, the fun is in the details: familiar ingredients with charming names and a bit of history behind them. While you may not make it to Olympic stadium, with a bit of research you can conjure up some of the sights and smells that fill London by cooking these traditional British dishes.


August 17, 2012

FOOD & BEVERAGE

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A Whale of A Tale BY: Casey L. Jankoski, BPS Culinary While everyone was at home, enjoying their summer break, there were a lot of happenings going on around the country in the form of beverage seminars. One of the biggest events was held in New Orleans. Tales of the Cocktail celebrated its tenth year. This cocktail extravaganza lasted six days, July 24th to the 29th. The Tales of the Cocktail is, according to their website, “the World’s premier cocktail festival, bringing together the most respected minds on mixology for five days of cocktails, cuisine and culture”. This event draws industry professionals, such as bartenders, liquor company representatives and writers, as well as cocktail enthusiasts. Within these five days there are dozens of seminars, lunches, dinners, competitions and tastings where brands from around the world come to market their newest creations. What started as a bar crawl through the streets of New Orleans has turned into an event that draws thousands of people each year and brings in mixologists from around the world to showcase their talents. In his fourth year attending the event, resident Professor Doug Miller was chosen to compete in a competition sponsored by Drambuie, that focused on draft cocktails*. Professor Miller also had the opportunity to work with Antoine’s, the oldest family restaurant in the nation, to create a dinner with the theme of 1919 New Orleans, which was graciously sponsored by Pernod Ricard who donated all the alcohol for the event. Professor Miller was selected for the Drambuie competition by submitting a recipe consisting of: 1 part Drambuie 15, ¼ part 12 year old balsamic vinegar, ½ part cherry heering (Danish cherry liquor) and a dash of Angostura bitters, garnished with grapefruit peel. This recipe was meant to be drafted, which is an up and coming trend that consists of mixing drinks in large batches. Miller was selected as a finalist to compete with two other candidates, he placed third, but reported that he was still happy he got the experience to showcase the drink and open people up to the idea of using vinegar in cocktails. Miller was not just there for the competition though. In speaking with him, he explained that The Tales of the Cocktail offers many great opportunities for professionals. There is excellent networking because of the large crowd the event attracts, as well at the ability to try new products from around the world and attend lectures covering many topics, such as why alcohol is 80 proof. For the dinner, the theme was 1919 New Orleans, specifically focusing on New Year’s Eve, just days before prohibition began. The menu came from the restaurants archives, because the restaurant had been opened in the early 1900s. Miller then made drinks that would compliment both the food and the feel of the time. His focus was creating drinks to match the menu and the era. This meant drinks with high alcohol content. One of the drinks was a Pernod Frappe, which consists of: ¼ oz of gum syrup (simple syrup with the addition of gum, an emulsifier), a dash of Peychaud’s Bitters, ½ oz of water and 1 ½ oz of Pernod. Another cocktail was a classic champagne cocktail, but with a little something extra: In a highball glass, 1 tsp of sugar and 4 bruised mint leaves are combined. To that, add a dash of brandy and top with champagne. Over the course of the evening, about 700 cocktails were prepared for the thirsty crowd of lucky guests that got to attend this very special event.

Tales of the Cocktail is just one of many events around the country celebrating the art of the drink. These events are great opportunities for industry professionals to gather and swap stories and recipes as well as keep old traditions alive, and explore new ones. So go out and learn something, and you might find a new favorite drink along the way! *To read more about draft cocktails, please see my second article in the beverage column. Photos: http://www.bourbonblog.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/07/Tales_of_the_cocktail_drinks.jpg

Newport Dreaming

BY:Giulianna Galiano, BPS Culinary and writer for bestcookingschoolblog.typepad.com I completed my externship at a golf club in a bit flustered with was that they didn’t introduce me Charlestown, Rhode Island. While I was helping the to the staff. Therefore, for the rest of the day, I had club with a wine dinner this past weekend, I decided to be repetitive to each member and tell them why I to venture 45 minutes up route one to a splendid was there. Nonetheless, everybody seemed friendly harbor side town, known as Newport, Rhode Island enough and not at all intimidated or bewildered by to shadow at a restaurant. my presence. Picture hundreds of sailboats, glistening salt water, Between the raw bar, mimosas, bloody an ocean breeze, colorful boutiques and scents of mary’s and fried fish sandwiches, customers were lobster and “chow-da” in the air. Just imagine friendly coming in and out of the restaurant craving cocktails locals biking around tourists on the sidewalk. and seafood. Many requested to sit by the water on I parked at the local deck and walked my way a deck that was surrounded by yachts and sailboats down the sandy sidewalk of “America’s Cup” into (such a sight to see). It was difficult accommodating the center of Newport. Even though I drank some each guest to that request since indoor seating was cold Rhody milk-coffee (an actual beverage sold at also available. This part of the dining room certainly Dave’s Coffee, located in Charlestown), my stomach was deserted, but the restaurant tried to open it up by was craving some fried calamari and a New Castle. keeping the fans on, sliding the windows for a view I couldn’t help but think how nice it’d be to live in and convincing diners that no matter where they sat, Newport. they could feel as if they were in an outdoor setting The food scene itself is astonishing because of the (which was certainly true). seafood craze. Brewed culture is also becoming more After seating a few guests at tables popular within the local pubs popping up, pairing (felt good to be a host again), I walked around the fried seafood with ale. hardwood floors of the dining room with the manager. My only hope was that this stage would be a He showed me the Aloha POS dining system and we success and I’d get to witness what it was really like, observed service, picking up napkins off the floor, Front-of-House style, to be in a Newport restaurant at removing silverware here and there, greetings guests, the peak of lunch hour. checking on busboys, clarifying items with Chef, etc. Boy, was I in for a slammed shift. Again, I will Overall, my four hours in Newport were delightful leave the restaurant unnamed for the sake of their and I left the restaurant starving for a lobster roll and personal privacy. The managers were super friendly an ocean view. and welcoming, very laid-back in style. I wasn’t The Newport scene was surely different surprised about their nonchalant attitudes; every than NYC in ways that I mentioned above. It’s difficult Rhode Islander I had ever met was this way. To me, to pick and choose which environment is best suited it’s not a turn-off at all. Calm, relatable, easygoing for you. In Rhode Island, everyone knows each other managers make for a fun, relaxing experience. Don’t (a friend of mine that cooked with me at the golf club get me wrong, they were perfectly professional and told me to say hi to Chef, and he recognized his name disciplined as well. immediately). Personally, I always make the decision My stage began with a tour of the restaurant, based on where I am in life and what I am in dire shaking hands with different bartenders, servers need for. In a year or so, if I need that island inspired and cooks in the kitchen. Then, I witnessed the pre- summer to relax on my days off, I’d go to Newport. briefing fifteen minutes before lunch service. New In order to learn though and be challenged, NYC is menu items were introduced and tasted, reflections definitely the place to grow strong. No matter what of the night before were discussed and the Chef restaurant you go to, just remember that qualities of actually came out to convince every server to sell as service are universal and can be shared and taught many lobsters as possible. The one who sold the most in any setting. would get a free bottle of wine (a great incentive if -Gg you ask me). The only part of the meeting that I was


LA PAPILLOTE

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Grad. Speaker: Marc Forgione Chef/Partner: Restaurant Marc Forgione

Winner of the Food Network’s Next Iron Chef, Marc Forgione began his career at the age of 16, joining his father, culinary legend Larry Forgione ’74, in the kitchen of An American Place. Marc fully embraced his father’s livelihood and has built on his unique culinary foundation to carve out an identity of his own. Marc Forgione studied at the University of Massachusetts at Amherst, where he graduated from the School of Hotel and Restaurant Management. He spent his summers working the line at restaurants such as Above in New York with acclaimed chef Kazuto Matsusaka. This experience would lay the groundwork for

his post-collegiate work, again alongside his father at An American Place and later under Patricia Yeo at AZ. When Chef Yeo and celebrated chef Pino Maffeo opened Pazo, they took Chef Forgione along to serve as sous chef there. And when Laurent Tourondel set out to develop his flagship, BLT Steak, he also recruited Chef Forgione as his sous chef. In an effort to diversify his culinary experience, Chef Forgione traveled to France. There he secured a series of humble posts under Michel Guerard in Eugénie-les-Bains, working at three of the region’s finest restaurants—Le Prés d’Eugénie, La Ferme aux Grives, and Le Cuisine Minceur. When he returned to New York, Chef Forgione promptly reunited with Chef Tourondel to serve as chef de cuisine at BLT Prime. The restaurant would go on to earn sterling accolades, culminating in a 27 in the Zagat Guide, making it the highest-ranking steakhouse in the history of New York City. Chef Forgione was next named corporate chef for the BLT Restaurant Group, and played a key role in the openings of BLT Fish and BLT Market, as well

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as the Washington, DC; San Juan, Puerto Rico; and Dallas, TX locations of BLT Steak. At Restaurant Marc Forgione, his first restaurant, Chef Forgione has created an approachable place “that people walk by and are compelled to enter, and where the ingredients are the star.” The New York City restaurant earned a coveted Michelin star in the 2012 guide, making Chef Forgione the youngest American-born chef and owner to receive the honor in consecutive years (2010, 2011, and 2012). In addition, he received a two-star review from The New York Times and the restaurant has been named a “Key Newcomer” by Zagat Guide 2009, one of the “Top 25 Restaurants in NYC” by Modern Luxury, and an “All Star Eatery” by Forbes. Chef Forgione was also awarded Star Chefs’ “Rising Star of the Year Award 2010,” named “Rising Star 2008” by Restaurant Hospitality, and recognized as a “New Formalist” by Esquire in 2008. In 2012, Chef Forgione opened his second restaurant, American Cut at the Revel Resort and Casino in Atlantic City, NJ.

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POT LUCK

August 17, 2012

BY:Eric Jenkins, BPS Culinary

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A thick Japanese noodle similiar to spaghetti. It can be round or squared and can be made from wheat or corn flour. Udon is available in Asian markets in both fresh and dried forms.

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Its origins are vague, but the native Jamaican ugli fruit is believed to be a tangerine-grapefruit hybrid (though the pomelo may also have been involved). It ranges in size between that of a navel orange and a giant grapefruit. Its acid-sweet flavor suggests grapefruit with hints of orange. The extremely thick, yellow-green skin fits rather loosely over the large, juicy, yellow-orange pulp sections. Ugli fruit is available on a limited basis around the country from winter to spring. Choose fruit that’s heavy for its size and that gives slightly to palm pressure. Store at room temperature and use within 5 days or refrigerate up to 3 weeks. Ugli fruit may be prepared and eaten in any way suitable for grapefruit. It’s an excellent source of vitamin C.

Pickled Japanese plums that are picked before they’re ripe, then soaked in brine and red shiso leaves, the latter of which adds flavor and a pink coloring. This Japanese condiment is very salty and tart and is a popular adjunct to most Japanese meals, including breakfast. Pureed umeboshi, called bainiku , is used as a seasoning. Umeboshi can be found in jars and cans in Asian markets and in some gourmet markets.

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Also known as a purple yam, used in a variety of desserts, as well as a flavor for ice cream, milk, Swiss rolls, tarts, cookies, cakes, and other pastries. In the Philippines, it is eaten as a sweetened jam called ube halayà, a popular ingredient in the iced dessert called halo-halo. In Maharashtra, the stir-fried chips are eaten during religious fasting. Purple yam is also an essential ingredient in Undhiyu.

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Unagi is served as part of unadon (sometimes spelled unagidon, especially in menus in Japanese restaurants in Western countries), a donburi dish with sliced eel served on a bed of rice. A kind of sweet biscuit called unagi pie made with powdered unagi also exists.

Typical Ukrainian cabbage rolls can be made from either pickled or parboiled cabbage leaves. Fillings traditionally contain rice only, since the typical peasant diet was largely vegetarian due to the higher cost of meat. Occasionally, the rice filling is mixed with small amounts of meat. Other recipes call for cooked kasha and chopped wild mushrooms or, more recently, combinations of whole grains and root vegetables. Some modern recipes call for tofu or textured vegetable protein instead of meat. The finished rolls may be simmered in thinned tomato juice, beef stock, vegetable stock, or even miso broth.

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8.17.2012