Autumn & Winter 13/14
PRINT & GRAPHIC TRENDS
Mexican Gold Aztec is a tribal group that originated from Mexico and their cultural patterns are basically what make up the Aztec print patterns that we have been seeing in recent fashion trends. It primarily consists of zig-zag lines which are then modified to come up with varying patterns.
We noticed the trend was a big feature at the Capsule trade show in Berlin. The Aztec print was given a more autumn/winter feel by being applied to fleece fabrics and long sleeved shirts. The colour palette was also more warm and neutral with flashes of salmon pink and light turquoise. The trend was very popular amongst the menâ€™s street wear sector at the Berlin tradeshows.
Anaglyph 3D Red and Blue together relate to the 3D effect produced using anaglyph glasses. This graphic trend is best produced with negative space as black seems to confuse the harmony between the two. Typography takes lead in this trend as the red and blue can be turned into various shapes producing a new font. It is best to work with the one and two thirds rule ensuring that there isnâ€™t an overload of colour. Left Eye Sky
Right Eye Rouge
This graphic trend has stemmed from the resurrection of 3D films. With the sales of these films falling there have been suggestions of new technology and investment hinting at another revival. However those who are not so friendly with technology have taken a step back and resorted to the old school anaglyph glasses. With trend setters such as the much respected Little White Lies leading the way this trend is sure to catch on. Also with patriotism still in the air from 2012 being the best year to be British the colours red, blue and white are sure to go down well.
Punk fashion exhibition ‘Punk: Chaos to Couture’ at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art has been great inspiration for AW 13/14; resulting in the comeback of the tartan print. This great celebration of Punk clothing will be exhibited on the 9th May and has very high expectations. The exhibition’s organisers point out that while the torn, defaced, DIY aesthetic of punk seems at odds with the couture principles of made-to-measure, the two are in fact linked through their belief in the importance of individuality and originality.
CREATIVE DIRECTION TRENDS
Sinister Romanticism â€˜Romanticism is precisely situated neither in choice of subject nor exact truth, but in the way of feeling.â€™ Charles Baudelaire
This A/W13 Creative Direction will take a turn towards the darker side of 21st Century Romance. This trend is about luxury and the pursuit of beauty contrasted with a sharp contemporary feel. Freedom of passion and gender will be an area of focus opposing the feeble side of the romance movement. This change in romance has appeared from the imbalanced times we are living in and will be represented through the choice of colour and props. Draping, baroque and simple silhouettes should be used within the direction to best represent the idea behind this trend.
Folkloric Folklore is the culture of legends and popular beliefs. It represents the idea of having local products and resources that are regional. There will be references to religious and mythical elements enabling for an exciting view for creative direction.
This trend represents the idea of local products relating to the backlash of modern culture which we are seeing more commonly. Also with folk musicians such as Mumford and Sons, The Lumineers and more gracing the charts it is about time this was reflected elsewhere. Creative Direction will take a turn towards folklore where the use of hand embellished and hand crafted elements will take the stage. The simple wooden buildings and spacious outdoors will be used in reference to folklore with the typical Russian patterns being used to make up for the effortless locations.
Techno-Logic Even though our economy is hurting; fast paced technological developments are still on the rise. Due to the consumer being more demanding than ever; it appears that we are always longing for the next hightech gadget. This obsession with futurism has also sparked interest in other areas such as TV and film. With the top TV series Black Mirror making a second series paired with this summerâ€™s movie releases such as Star Trek and After Earth.
Futurism and intergalactic influence is predicted to invade artistic minds in terms of creative direction in a conceptual and inspiring manner. Included within these ideas will be fluid yet angular shapes. Scenes of mystery and obscurity will be produced; with the use of shiny, metallic materials, icy colour palettes and innovative illusions giving you an experience that makes you feel like youâ€™ve bolted fast forward in time.
The Explorer â€˜In nature, beauty is organic and not airbrushed or surgically alteredâ€™ (Trendhunter 2008)
Due to our current economic climate, people are turning to the great outdoors for their entertainment and getaways. With British holidaying encouraging us to revert back to caravanning and camping; many of us are appreciating our natural surroundings on a whole new level. Becoming at one with nature has therefore affected our AW 13/14 trends and is forecast to be one of the biggest for this upcoming season. Seen repeatedly on the menswear catwalks (Vivienne Westwood standing out in particular) and at the Capsule tradeshow in Berlin; it was seen in a variety of ways with the use of earthy colours/ tones and camouflage prints.
Rogue on the Road Tyre Track
Due to our society suffering from the impacts of recession; fashion has been greatly inspired by our change in behaviour. As a consequence of working long hours whilst trying to juggle our hectic lives it appears that we find ourselves searching for an outlet to let off steam and experience a sense of escapism. In this case it is all about freedom within the great outdoors for menswear; grabbing your motorcycle and biker jacket and going on a fast, exhilarating excursion to escape from normality.
Pantone 16-1452 Old Navy
‘It’s important that all accent colours stand apart from the background colours and that they look harmonious as a group’ (Swinford 2012)
Pantone 16-1452 and similar shades were seen at a number of Berlin trade shows. The colour was mostly used as an accent. The rather feminine colour was made more appealing to a male audience by being applied to masculine brogues and long-sleeved shirts. It harmonised well with blues and beiges.
VISUAL MERCHANDISING TRENDS
Flashback There was an abundance of neon visual merchandising on our research trip to Berlin. Both high end and high street stores were adopting the aesthetic. Itâ€™s loud and sure to attract the attention of consumers. The fashion trade shows also made use of neon visuals to display the products. Show and Order really stood out with an amazing moving neon graffiti image.
Welcome to the Jungle
Build Me Up Buttercup
With references to 80â€™s nightlife and rebellious counter-culture, it makes quite a statement about a brand. Therefore this visual merchandising trend must be used carefully and be in keeping with the brandâ€™s attitudes and values.
Nuts â€˜nâ€™ Bolts Rust
This mechanical trend will embrace the dark and intricate. Visual merchandising has been through the industrial stage and now is the time to begin to focus on the detail. The attention to colour will be important with the use of dark grey and black with hints of faded browns adding to the mechanical feel. Harsh materials such as metal and iron will be used in order to make a statement.
This image shows the AW13 menswear collection from Kenzo, their choice of location and presentation reflects this visual merchandising trend well. With the dark setting and strong materials used it is sure to set off the masculine theme. Even though there isnâ€™t a display of complex detail the shiny, strong materials reflect the supplies that would be used in the industry.
Back to basics Pine
Currently there is a tug of war between the rise of technology and the celebration of the past; vinyl versus digital, vintage versus designer. Incredible advancements within technology mean a fast evolving world for us all. Social media is dominating lives and handcraft and individuality are losing touch. Itâ€™s about time we got back to basics and embrace our inner child
The idea of fighting the progression of the digital world is looking to be seen in the form of visual merchandising this Autumn/ Winter 2013. Handmade, craft, natural materials and recycling are going to be influencing store aesthetics. Individuality and eclecticism will be celebrated.
Research For secondary research we used the library to look through trend books such as Trend Union and The Trend Forecasterâ€™s Handbook which helped us to have a vision of what was expected. We also used online resources for example WGSN enabling us to understand what was needed.
S/S 13 Lookbook
We conducted a variety of primary and secondary research which included collecting resources such as the look book from the store. Also whilst we were there we spoke to the manager with our suggestions of suitable trends in which he gave us feedback that was mostly positive. Whilst in Berlin we photographed trends which appeared throughout the trade shows as well as inspiration from the city.
We have chosen to apply our trends to the brand Ted Baker. We decided that the Menswear Pantone 16-1452 trend and the Back to Basics visual merchandising trend would be most suited to the brand.
Pantone 16-1452 honours the brands attention to detail. We propose that flashes of the colour will be featured in the collection (Illustrated later in our mock-up) We felt the colour was in keeping with the brands existing aesthetic, however adding a modern twist. Itâ€™s fun, quirky and atypical of autumn/winter colours, thus suiting the metrosexual Ted Baker Menswear consumer.
The Back to Basics visual merchandising trend allows the brand to focus on quality and attention to detail. Hand-crafted props in-store and gifts will be used to encourage the consumer to join the brand in celebrating back to basics. We decided to focus on harking back to the simple days when leisure time was more physical and less time was spent in the digital world.
â€˜From the beginning Ted has had a very clear, unswerving, focus on quality, attention to detail and a quirky sense of humourâ€™ (Ted Baker Website)
This is our window display mock-up. It uses the strapline ‘Ted’s lost his marbles’. This makes use of the brands humour and links to previous window displays. We wanted to represent going back to a simpler form of fun, with childhood games like marbles which could keep you entertained for days. We incorporated hand-crafted jars of marbles onto the windowsills as these will be handed out to loyal customers as part of our ‘out of the ordinary marketing’ (Ted Baker website)
Marketing Mock-ups ‘As you would expect from Ted, the approach to marketing the brand remains the same as it was from day one…primarily by word of mouth and out of the ordinary marketing.’ (Ted Baker website)
These are a few inspirational images for Ted Baker’s in-store environment. The focus is on hand-crafted and simple objects. With these in mind, we have mocked up an image of the potential marble jars which will be given out as gifts to loyal customers. They will have hand-made themed labels reinforcing the trend of going back to basics. They personify Ted, adding a personal touch. The look book and swing tags will be in keeping with the two trends.
Clothing/Footwear Mock-up In this mock-up, we have shown how we would suggest incorporating the Pantone 16-1452 trend into the Ted Baker staple pieces. Using it as an accent colour adds character and wit, in a sophisticated manner.
‘The future is here, it’s just not very well distributed.’ (Trend Forecaster’s Handguide)
BERLIN CITY GUIDE