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Krabi in

1975

Meet the son of the man who built it

Secret Corner Little gems hidden in plain sight

News, Eating, Travel, Activities, Reviews, Sport, Nature


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Welcome to Krabi First of all, if you are reading this magazine for the first time - Welcome! You have arrived at one of the most amazing, beautiful and truly unique places in the whole of Thailand. Krabi is always one of the highlights of a trip to the South of Thailand, and for good reason. There’s a veritable smorgasbord of activities to keep you out of mischief for a few weeks, whether you’re a rock-climbing adrenaline junkie or a sun-worshipping beach lover. The Krabi Magazine is all about Krabi and what it has to offer. Within these pages you will find all sorts of articles, timetables, news, tips and more to keep you up to speed and informed on how to get the most out of your time here. This month, we take a look at the gory, gruesome and - quite frankly - ultimately watchable Vegetarian Festival that took place towards the end of last month. While this might conjure up images of bearded types munching on a variety of leafy greens, nothing could be further from the truth. There will be blood, lots of it, and carefully edited photographs. I’ll leave it at that. Turn to page 36 to see for yourself what happened. We got our tastebuds out and about again - all in the name of quality journalism, of course, and were treated to some outstanding food. From amazing gourmet sandwiches to home-made hummus and the best durn antipasti we’ve ever had, no fewer than 3 different places to eat are reviewed this month, so there is no excuse to go hungry. We got our arty fix by heading out into the rubber trees to meet a Welsh lady and her Thai husband who have a business in silver. Not just selling it though, this couple will show

EDITOR: Paul Stretton krabimagazineeditor@gmail.com - 087 266 4876 DIRECTOR Pamela Huxley krabimagazinemarketing@gmail.com - 088 451 2178 MARKETING Zina krabimagazinemedia@gmail.com - 080 770 5734 POST-PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR: Thomas Gennaro krabimagazine@gmail.com - 089 908 5990 ART GROUP

Graphic Director: Nattapat Sunthonphuriwat [Pat®] tonidesign@gmail.com - 089 7727858 Design: Andy Dayton - daytonatdesign@gmail.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS

Paul Stretton, Ekkehard Schwadtke, Punch Whitfield, Stewart Whitfield, Ton Company, Darren Johnson, Jeffrey Dietrich, Ben Cottrell

Krabi Magazine

November 2012– ISSUE 81 www.krabi-magazine.com © Krabi Magazine 2012

you how to make your very own pieces of jewelry from scratch. We were intrigued and, as there were blowtorches involved, I was happy. Touted on Trip Advisor as “The best rainy day activity in Krabi”, it really is. Our “Meet the Locals” section takes to Krabi town this month and we sit down with a man called “Oh”. A musician, artist and philosopher in his own right, he is Krabi-born and bred and seen a lot of changes. His father was involved in building the first roads of Krabi when all this was jungle. See what Krabi looked like in 1975 by turning to page 28. We have travel tips, culture hints, language advice and eating guides to help make your stay here easier and more enjoyable. If you are heading off to the islands, we even have a section for you on the idyllic isles of Koh Lanta and Koh Jum. Never heard of Koh Jum? You will soon, as it’s becoming more popular every year. We spent a couple of nights at the OonLee Bungalows to check it out, and came back reluctantly - with blood pressure well and truly lowered. As if this wasn’t enough for you, we throw in some local and National news to keep you up to speed on events, our real estate section offers great tips on buying property in the Land of Smiles, and we even have a new page “Just for Fun” at the back which is, well, exactly that. So kick back, relax, order another of whatever that is you’re drinking and get ready to explore Krabi. Enjoy!

DISTRIBUTION AO NANG – KOH LANTA KOH PHI PHI – KRABI TOWN - KOH JUM KitDee Media & Design – 075 637459 DISTRIBUTION KOH SAMUI - PHUKET BANGKOK - CHIANG MAI - PATTAYA Bookazine - AsiaBooks Bangkok KitDee Media & Design Company Limited 247/13 Moo 5, Ao Nang, Krabi 81000 Tel: 075 661144 - 075 637459 - Fax: 075 637460 E-mail: krabimagazine@gmail.com www.facebook.com/krabimagazine

cover Image by Andy Dayton

Krabi Magazine is published and produced by KitDee Media & Design Company Limited and is protected by Copyright. No parts of this publication can be used or reproduced in any form – printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – without the written permission of the publishers. The publisher reserves the right to refuse to publish adverts, texts or advertising features. Advertising terms and conditions are to be obtained at: krabimagazine@gmail. com Please send submissions to: krabimagazineeditor@gmail.com

DISCLAIMER

While great care has been taken in the receipt and handling of material, production and accuracy in this magazine, the publisher will not accept any responsibility for any errors, loss or omissions which may occur. The information and stories published are those of the writers and contributors, and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher or the editor. The description of properties, the contents, whereabouts and price are given in this magazine as a guide only. Please request further details from the advertiser and seek legal advice before entering into any contract to purchase. All information and prices were correct at the time of going to press.

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Contents November issue 81

2012

TRY YOUR THAI

11

Stop speaking slowly and loudly to the Thais - try out these handy phrases to impress your friends instead.

A WINDOW ON KRABI

12

Highlights of this amazing province: town to temples, beaches to Islands, natural hotspots to cultural places.

TOP 10 ACTIVITIES

14

14

Krabi Province is a haven for sun worshippers and pleasure seekers and is also one of the world’s best destinations for activities such as rock-climbing, scuba diving and kayaking.

HOTEL PR NEWS

16

Brands, products and services from our sponsoring hotels.

THE PULSE

20

Our version of the “News at 10”. Some local and International things of interest happening now.

TRAVEL ADVICE

26

24

Timetables, prices and general good advice on getting here and getting away again.

THAI CUSTOMS

26

There are some pretty big “Dos” and “Most Definitely Do Nots” here and it pays to tell them apart...

MEET THE LOCALS

28

Getting under the skin of those that have been here for ages - we love it. This month we chat with Pi “Oh” about his famous father, philosophy and that rather unusual tattoo...

U&P BAKERY

28

30

We get an invite to one of the best bakeries around to see how their menu is holding up. Turns out, it’s just fine. If you need a sarnie fix, this is the place to go...

EATING GUIDE

31

A selection of great places to eat and drink in the region. We’ve tested them ourselves, so we know. Yes, we do.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

35

More food? Why not. For a taste of Italian fine dining with a twist, we delve into the Venezia Restaurant at Sofitel Resort to see what we can see. We discover a secret menu and a comic manager - what more can you ask for?

VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL

30

36

It took some very skilful photo editing to make these photos printable, I hope you realise. This deceptively titled event is shocking and gory to the extreme, but it’s happening on the street in broad daylight. Yes, I said vegetarian.

INTO THE BLUE

38

Our diving/underwater section with news, events and other damp shenanigans.

SECRET CORNER

41

A new section that looks at those little hidden places that we come across now and again in the middle of nowhere. This month, a coffee shop sent from heaven.

36

HOLIDAY READS

43

There can be fewer finer things in life than to kick back with a good book. So we take a quick look at some new releases to keep you riveted on those long days on the beach.


Contents November issue 81 ARTS 44 We go down to the woods today and are indeed in for a big surprise. We discover how to make our own silver jewellery from scratch and I get to play with fire. Bonus.

KRABI VISA

47

Local lass in the know, Punch, tells us more little-known info on visas, work permits and more. This month - how to get a work permit the easier way.

NEW OPENING

48

Cleopatra is the brand new restaurant in Ao Nang that focusses on all things Arabic. We snag a table at the opening night and stuff ourselves with hummus, lamb and biryani. This is the only place that does shisha, and we take full advantage...

KOH LANTA

44

52

Get the most out of Koh Lanta. Highlights, maps, reviews and articles: Koh Lanta Highlights: Lanta Features Activity: What to do on the paradisiacal isle. Yes, that is a word. Eating Guide: Where to go for the best eats on the island Nature: Butterflies investigated! There’s 2 words never to be used in the same sentence again.

TECH NEWS

61

48

Recent developments in the tech world coming to Thailand.

KOH JUM

62

Where? Exactly. That’s why we’re here. Overnight: OonLee Bungalows are not the easiest to get to, but well worth it when you do. A true Thai hideaway with 5-star food thrown in. Who can argue with that?

REAL ESTATE

66

Purchasing and making real estate investments made simple with Krabi Magazine.

57

Architect Tips: Local architects Ton Company produce stunning homes Focus: This month, The Houben Luxury Villas shows us what they have to offer Buying Advice: If you’re considering getting a place with an “unusual feature”, then there is more red tape to deal with . We explain how to address this.

RUSSIAN SECTION

74

4 pages of information in the Russian Language

WHAT IS THAT?!

78

A section dedicated to those weird and wonderful “things” in Thailand that have us crying these very words. This month, something big, black and pointy.

JUST FOR FUN

64

79

Some amusing things we came across that we thought we’d share with you.

Krabi Magazine Around the World:

80

We make it all the way somewhere else entirely. Crossword: A crossword. Well, it is.

PHOTO OF THE MONTH The best amateur photo we discovered of Krabi recently.

82

78

2012


One very important think to remember is that male speakers should always end each statement or sentence with the word “Krap”. Female speakers end with “Kaa”. Hello (male speaker).......................................... “Sawadee Krap” Hello (female speaker)........................................ “Sawadee Kaa” How are you?..................................................... “Sabai Dee Mai?” I’m fine.............................................................................“Sabai Dee” How much is this?..............................................“A Nee Tao Rai?” What is this?................................................................. “Nee a Rai?” Yes................................................................................................“Chai” No........................................................................................ “Mai Chai” Sorry/Excuse me.............................................................“Kor Toht” I can’t speak Thai...............................“Poot Passa Thai Mai Dai” Can you speak English?.“Khun Poot Passa Angrit Dai Mai?” I don’t understand..................................................“Mai Khao Jai” Do you understand?.............................................“Khao Jai Mai? Help!..................................................................... “Chooey Dooey!” Spicy..............................................................................................“Pet” Not spicy..............................................................................“Mai Pet” Is that tasty?................................................................. “A Roy Mai? Hot (Temperature)...............................................................“Rawn” Cold.............................................................................................. “Yen” Water........................................................................................“Naam” Where is the restroom/toilet?.... “Hong Naam Yoo Tee Nai? Can I have the bill/check?.......................................... “Kep Tang” Where are you going?..................................................... “Pai Nai? See you soon........................................................... “Pop Gan Mai” And the one that rules them all - the 3 words that every Thai lives by and that can teach us stress-monkeys a thing or two about life…

It doesn’t matter No big deal Don’t worry about it

“Mai Pen Rai”

Never mind

Numbers 1 - Noong 2 - Song 3 - Sam 4 - See 5 - Haa

6 - Hock 7 - Jet 8 - Ped 9 - Khao 10 - Sip

try your

Thai

K

rabi is well-used to foreigners and most of the Thai people that deal with tourists on a daily basis will have a smattering of English to get by. The employees at your resort, for example. But if you want to try out a little of their own language, you will be rewarded by even bigger smiles and even the odd giggle. The Thais really do appreciate you making an effort to speak their language and just the odd word here and there can make all the difference in your relationships with them. It can be a daunting language to speak as it has 5 separate tones that can change the meaning of the word you are speaking. But don’t worry about that for now - if you just say the words, they’ll get the message!


Window on krabi the beaches Ao Nang, at 20km from Krabi Town, is the most developed of Krabi’s beaches, a long stretch of white sandy beach with limestone mountains as a backdrop. It has a wide range of accommodation and services and the main shopping street features restaurants, bars, pubs, souvenir shops, dive centers and tour agencies, massage centers and spas. This is the hub from which to plan your trip at sea and to the nearby islands on a typical longtail boat. Noppharat Thara beach, just around the corner from Ao Nang, is 3km long yet still undeveloped, with only a few resorts and bars. Attractive because of its natural setting, this is where local youngsters and families gather at sunset and at weekends. Savour some local Muslim snacks at the beach stalls, or fill yourself with seafood in the local restaurants at the very end of the beach, near the Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters. At low tide, walk out together with millions of small crabs on the sandy pathways to the small islands near the beach.

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Railay beaches are split and separated from Krabi and Ao Nang by monumental limestone mountains. Railay has two sides, east and west, and its settings are simply marvelous: crystal clear waters, pure sandy beaches, lush mountains, rocky islands emerging from the sea. Railay can only be reached by boat, a 15 minutes ride from Ao Nang or 30 minutes from Krabi Town. Enjoy a cocktail in one of the beach bars, visit the Phranang Cave, challenge yourself on a rock climbing course, hike the limestone massif to a lagoon and a viewpoint, or simply chill out. Neighbouring Tonsai lies at the base of a cliff that divides it form Railay West. Tonsai has a shallow beach with slow gradients out to sea which is profoundly affected by the tide. Klong Muang beach is a further 20km away from Ao Nang; it is the up-market side of Krabi, the place to be if you are after a peaceful holiday. Catering to families and couples, it is here that you really get the so deserved repose, surrounded by pristine nature. Tubkaek beach is another real place to hide away; long, clean and peaceful, the area has breathtaking views over Koh Hong islands archipelago, and charming sunsets. From there you can venture inside the National Park and try a walking trail to a viewpoint and a waterfall. Koh Lanta beaches have a wide selection of resorts for all tastes and pockets. Lanta Yai island has long stretches of gleaming white sandy beaches and shallow emerald waters. Lined with tropical vegetation, a private spot is never more than a short walk away on a southern beach at Lanta Yai.

NATURAL HOTSPOTS Limestone mountains or karsts characterize most of the inland Krabi area, the most spectacular being the massifs of Sai Tai. Susaan Hoi is a 40 million year-old seashell cemetery; once a large swamp where freshwater crustaceans proliferated, today home to 40 centimeter thick, shell encrusted limestone slabs, a geological uniqueness not far from Ao Nang. One must find a broken edge to see the shells clearly, since all of those on the upper surface have been walked on and worn down by the elements and are hard to identify.

Khao Phanom Bencha National Park, at 20km from Krabi Town, comprises waterfalls, streams, lush forests and caves. It is home to all kind of flora and wildlife and to the highest mountain in the region from which it takes the name. One of the features of the park is Huay Toh Waterfall where water runs down onto several huge pools. Tarnbok Khoranee National Park, in the north of the region, consists of limestone mountains, verdant tropical forest, caves and beautiful islands. It is well known for its different species of trees growing around a large natural crystal clear pool, and for the hundreds of birds’ species. Phi Hua Toh Cave, in the nearby Bor Thor area, surrounded by mangrove swamps and reachable by boat or kayak, is where to see pre-historic rock paintings depicting animals and humans. Sa Morakot, the Emerald Pool, is a natural wonder: a pond of turquoise water with an average temperature of 30-40C, fed by a hot spring in the middle of the jungle. Hot Springs of Klong Thom, natural Jacuzzis in which to lift away tensions and relieve body and mind with the mineral enriched waters falling into rocky ponds.

THE ISLANDS Hop on or hire a longtail, the local wooden boats with their picturesque prows. Sail away to Koh Poda, surrounded by turquoise waters, or to Koh Kai, shaped as a chicken and therefore called the Chicken Island, from where a walk on a sandy pathway connects it to Koh Tub. Make a longtail boat or speedboat trip to the Koh Hong archipelago, a group of limestone islands with hidden caves and lagoons perfect for kayaking or snorkeling. Join an organized tour to amazing Koh Phi Phi islands, full of marvelous bays, limestone cliffs, waters rich in marine life, caves where swallow nests are harvested, and much more. Visit Koh Jum and Koh Siboya, small, unspoiled tropical hide-away that have a unique atmosphere. These islands give visitors the time to relax and recharge their batteries. Or venture out on Koh Lanta, the developing island at the southern end of the province home to sea gypsies communities, where you will

meet nature and tradition. A National Park area that comprises many different islands surrounded by coral reefs, such as Koh Ngai and remote Koh Rok.

THE CULTURE Ban Natin, on the way from Ao Nang to Klong Muang, is the place to experience the peaceful lifestyle of the local Muslim community. Home accommodation is available, or you can simply make a stopover and see the production of handmade products such as batik paintings, pineapple-fiber paper and coconut shell carving. Wat Klong Thom Museum features various kinds of beads, stone tools, and stone and earthen ornaments in animal shapes of approximately 5,000 years old, uncovered during archeological excavations. Fire dancing, part of the beach culture, is a popular evening activity on the beaches of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi, performed by acrobatic boys who swing burning torches around their bodies, creating sparkling artistic pictures. Ban Sang-Ka-U is a sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional v Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-developing island.

THE TOWN Small, charming, silent at times, nice for a day’s walking tour. Krabi Town is full of old buildings, bars and restaurants, local exotic marketplaces and food stalls at the old Chao Fa pier where to sample the local food. The Krabi motto is: “lively town, lovely people”; Krabi’s simple people are definitely proud of their town and of their warm and generous character. Hop on a longtail boat at Chao Fa pier and visit Khao Kanab Nam, the unique pair of hills facing each other on the opposite banks of the Krabi River, symbols of the town; or embark on a journey to Koh Klang, an island next to town on the mouth of the river, where you will experience lives lived by the local fishing communities; or charter a boatman for a visit to the mangrove backwaters.

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top 10 Krabi Activities

Kayaking This is a hugely popular activity in Krabi. The mangroves, caves and of course the beaches, provide plenty of great opportunities for kayaking. The Ao Nang/Railay area is popular as it’s close and convenient but if you’re feeling a little more adventurous, book yourself on a tour to Ao Thalane or Bor Thor in Tarn Boke Koranee National Park. The caves, grottoes and lagoons make for a great day of fun and adventure. Wat Tham Suea A hike to Wat Tham Seua, otherwise known as Tiger Cave Temple is exhausting, exhilarating and ultimately hugely rewarding. Once you’ve climbed the 1,257 steps that lead to the hilltop temple, you’ll be met by stunning views over the surrounding Thai countryside having been transformed into swathes of lush greenery by the monsoon rain. Combine the temple with trips to other destinations like Sa Morakot or visit as a separate Krabi Town day trip and combine with trips to the market. SUNSET STROLL ALONG AO NANG ESPLANADE/ NOPPHARAT THARA BEACH Sunsets over Ao Nang and Nopharrat Thara are probably some of the best you are ever likely to see. The monsoon rain brings

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Krabi Province is a haven for sun worshippers and pleasure seekers and is also one of the world’s best destinations for activities such as rock-climbing, scuba diving and kayaking. Krabi Magazine gives you our top 10 list of activities to try here in Krabi: storm clouds that hang ominously in the sky, creating spectacular sunsets that bathe the bay in a sumptuous light. Walk along the esplanade to get some great views of the longtail boats bobbing on the water, or just sit on a bench and watch as the sky transforms. Evening in the Last Fisherman Bar After a sunset stroll there’s no better way to finish off your evening than chatting over a cocktail or two or indulging in some great seafood. If you finish your walk in Ao Nang continue along the road by the police box until you come to the Last Fisherman Bar, one of Ao Nang’s best night-spots. It’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy a drink by the ocean. The seafood restaurants at the other side of Ao Nang Beach or by the very end of Noppharat Thara beach are a must for local fish fare. Rock climbing and Railay Beach Combine a trip to Railay Beach with some rock climbing and serious beach time and then sample some of the local nightlife. Krabi is among the World’s best destinations for climbing. The Railay peninsula is home to the local climbing scene and is considered a mecca for the sport. There are hundreds of bolted routes in the Railay area as well as rock-climbing schools that can provide guides and equipment. Railay, once the sole preserve of backpackers, has


become a favourite holiday destination, combining 2 world class beaches, excellent dining and some funky after hours haunts to down a few bottles of local brew. Markets Experiencing the hustle and bustle of a local market is great fun. Krabi and Ao Nang are blessed with some great markets, with Krabi town boasting the largest covered market in southern Thailand. There’s a market operating on any given day of the week selling everything from fruit and vegetables, household items, clothes and shoes, snacks, BBQ meat, Muslim curries and more. Try the Thursday market or Saturday markets in Klong Haeng. Sa Morakot A trip to Sa Morakot or the ‘Crystal Pool’ can be combined with trips to other beauty spots such as the hot springs. The so called ‘Emerald Pool’ is fed by a natural spring and gets its name from the glorious colour of its water. Perfect for swimming, it makes a great day out and a nice break from the beach. The rainy season is a great time to go as there is more water and less people. The best way to visit is on a tour, making it easy to combine it with a trip to nature’s own hot tub – the namtok ron (hot springs) a series of splash pools fed by a natural thermal spring. Koh Hong Archipelago No trip to Krabi or Ao Nang is complete without a trip to Koh Hong, the stunning group of islands lying off the Krabi coast. The beaches of Kong Hong never cease to amaze visitors with their crystal clear water and stunning white sand. The beaches in Ao Nang can become rough and windy in the wet season, but the beaches on the islands lying in the Andaman Sea remain calm and good for swimming. Koh Hong has two glorious beaches, a lagoon and national park land – a real island paradise.

Local Nightlife If drinking prodigious amounts of local brew is on your agenda then seek out one of Krabi Town or Ao Nang’s more lively night spots. In Ao Nang, Luna Bar is a popular joint for movers who want to bust some shapes on the dancefloor. Vodka or whiskey buckets are usually the order of the day. If you want to party ‘Thai style’, then head to Centerpoint in Ao Nang or Kansas Saloon in Krabi Town. With lots of whiskey on ice flowing, these places are an experience. Live music, dj sets and semi-clad dancing girls are what you can expect. For a less salubrious night out, try Soi Salai opposite McDonald’s in Ao Nang. This clusters of neon-lit ‘beer-bars’ are often friendly and good fun and many have cable TV and free pool on offer. The next place for entertainment are the bamboo huts opposite Siam Commercial Bank for a relaxed chillout evening. Longtail boat trip to Krabi mangroves The mangroves that fringe the coastline of the various islands divided by the maze of canals are thick and impenetrable. A nature longtail boat tour of the Krabi mangroves-populated canals, with great views of local wildlife and scenery, will enhance your Krabi experience. Charter a boat driver at Chaofa old pier for the longtail trip, usually lasting 3 hours.

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Pimalai Resort & Spa, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the world, has just been voted “Winner 2012 Luxury Villa Resort - for the Kingdom of Thailand” at the annual World Luxury Hotel Awards. This is the third year in row that Pimalai scoops awards – for the resort & for its spa - it at this prestigious event. The World Luxury Hotel Awards gives recognition and thanks to the hotel industry. The award stands testimony to dedication, enthusiasm and leadership in the high demand luxury hotel industry. The independent judging process was based on hotel guest votes and the feedback and votes from a selected global panel of hotel industry professionals. Pimalai, a stunning beach resort property, and a pioneer of deluxe hospitality on the island of Lanta in Krabi province, is set on 25 hectares of lush tropical land with direct access to 900 meters of pristine beach. It boasts exceptional facilities, including Deluxe rooms, Suites and Pool Villas, numerous restaurants & bars, conference facilities, an award winning spa, a Gold Palm PADI scuba diving center and a wide range of recreational facilities. The name “Pimalai’ is a derivation of the ancient Indian language of Sanskrit and translates, appropriately, as “A little patch of Heaven”; Pimalai brings you a different kind of luxury; “the luxury of being in a unique and exclusive environment, without all the fuss that goes with it”; “The luxury of experiencing an out of the beaten track destination”; finally “the luxury of being pampered by island natives people who have retained this unique genuine & friendly way in not only performing their duties, but bringing that little extra that makes the difference”. Peace, Serenity, Solitude….. These are the words that come to mind for Pimalai. Add to that elegance, natural surroundings and genuine friendly service. Be it for a honeymoon or a break from it all, Pimalai nestled in a lush tropical forest, is the destination to set your sights on. The resort combines all the right ingredients – subtle five star comfort, natural beauty, far from the crowds, with no noise except the sound of the waves sliding in and out and slowly breaking onto a pristine sandy shore.

One of Koh Lanta’s beaches, the stunning and pristine Kantiang bay that is the location for Pimalai Resort & Spa


Layana’s Saturday Beach BBQs Are Back

Baht for a Better Life for 84 Schools to Celebrate H.M. The King’s 84th Birthday

Layana Resort & Spa is proud to invite you back to one of the most spectacular dining experiences on Long Beach, Koh Lanta every Saturday evening.   For 1,490 THB net per person, enjoy the most outstanding Saturday Beach BBQ Buffet on the island. Our experienced culinary team awaits you with Foie Gras served on Mini Beef Tenderloin & Blinis, a Large Selection of Sushi & Sashimi, Live Cooking Stations and much more, all set up on the beach and freshly prepared to your liking.

Amari Hotels & Resorts’overall objective of the 84 Schools Project is to facilitate disadvantaged children in poor, rural schools to become independent and lifelong learners who possess the necessary life skills and occupational skills to solve problems.    This year, Amari Vogue Krabi is supporting the Ban Bang Dong School in Phang Nga, together with Amari Coralbeach Phuket and the Vogue Resort & Spa in Ao Nang. To achieve this, the resorts are working together with the Raks Thai Foundation from Bangkok. Amari Vogue Krabi’s team members have recently visited the school and have arranged activities for the children. Amari will also promote the program to resort guests through fund raising activities.

About Layana Resort & Spa

Layana Resort & Spa is an exclusive boutique resort facing a fine white sandy beach and set against a picturesque backdrop of forested hills. Laid out amid tropical gardens and designed to harmonize perfectly with its natural surroundings, the resort comprises of low-rise, contemporary Thai-style buildings that combine spaciousness with an open, cool and natural ambience. The guests have the opportunity to appreciate an idyllic island world far from the pressures of the city. As an exclusive haven of luxury, Layana Resort & Spa aims to offer the ultimate in individualized service. Throughout, guests appreciate the hospitality that is unobtrusive to preserve privacy, and yet attentive to give a sense of privilege and to fulfill every wish.

About Amari

Amari is the centrepiece of the ONYX portfolio of hotel brands reflecting the warmth and energy of an evolving modern Asia. Amari’s network of properties spans Thailand and beyond, from scenic seaside locations to vibrant urban settings including Bangkok, Pattaya, Koh Chang, Samui, Phuket, Krabi, and Hua Hin. New Amari properties scheduled to open in 2012 and 2013 include Amari Hua Hin, Amari Doha in Qatar, and Amari Ludhiana in India. Visit www.amari. com

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CELEBRATE LOY KRATHONG FESTIVAL AT SOFITEL KRABI PHOKEETHRA GOLF & SPA RESORT

Krabi, October 2012. Be illuminated and discover the wonderful celebration of Loy Krathong Festival. One of Thailand’s most special holidays, Loy Krathong is performed on the night of the full moon during the 12th lunar month. The floating of a Krathong (traditional banana leaf floats) are set adrift in rivers and waterways nationwide in a spell-binding ritual called Loy Krathong — the festival of lights. This year, Loy Krathong will be celebrated on Saturday, November 28th. At Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, celebrate the magic of Loy Krathong Day with cultural activities, entertainment, and a scrumptious dinner serving a selection of the most exquisite Thai cuisine, set alfresco in the resort’s tropical gardens. During the morning of this special day guests will be able to create their own Krathong ready for release later. The evening will begin with Sofitel Luxury Hotel’s unique candle ritual & signature welcome cocktails, followed by a traditional long drum parade, extravagant Thai ‘Khon’ dance performances, and elegant beauty pagent, Miss Nopphamas show. Under the light of the full moon, everyone will be escorted towards the huge swimming pool to float their Krathongs and at the same time make a wish for the coming year. The finale is a stunning air parade of flying lanterns released from Klong Muang beach for blessings and good fortune. A truly Magnifique night!

Sofitel, World Class Hotels & French Elegance

Sofitel is the only French luxury hotel brand with a presence on five continents with 120 addresses, in almost 40 countries (more than 30 000 rooms). Sofitel offers contemporary hotels and resorts adapted to today’s more demanding and more versatile consumers who expect and appreciate beauty, quality and excellence. Whether situated in the heart of a major city like Paris, London, New York, Shanghai or Beijing, or nestled away in a country landscape in Morocco, Egypt, French Polynesia or Thailand, each Sofitel property offers a genuine experience of the French “ art de vivre”. Discover Sofitel on www.sofitel.com Discover A|Club at Sofitel, the worldwide Accor loyalty program on www.a-club.com

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The pulse McDonald’s joins TAT to launch “Tourist Postcards for Charity” McThai Co., Ltd, the operator of McDonald’s restaurants in Thailand, has joined the Tourism Authority of Thailand for the campaign “Tourist Postcards for Charity” to support domestic tourism and raise fund for the Ronald McDonald House Charities Thailand which helps under privileged ill children and their families.   2011-2012 is “Miracle Year”according to government tourism promotion policy and TAT has organized a host of activities to encourage domestic tourism all year. These emphasize art and culture, Thainess, and “miraculously” unexpected new travelling experiences to stimulate more visits to the regions of Thailand. The cooperation with McDonald’s is sharing strengths in expanding customer base and promoting tourism. “Tourist Postcards for Charity” is helping to communicate information about beautiful tourist attractions in Thailand through McDonald’s restaurants nationwide, which have a large customer base of foreigners.   McThai Co., Ltd. Marketing Director, Ms. Petcharat Uthaisang stated, “McDonald’s has been operating in Thailand for more than 27 years and we have always given priority to social responsibilities as we are proud to be a part of Thai society. McDonald’s is extremely proud to have role in supporting domestic tourism as a distribution point for postcards in the “Tourist Postcards for Charity” campaign. Besides this, revenues from the sale of the campaign postcards will go to the Ronald McDonald House Charities Foundation Thailand to improve the well-being of underprivileged ill children and their families.    Your generosity can help improving the well-being of underprivileged children and families at all McDonald’s restaurants nationwide. Donate 300 baht to receive a set of 10 postcards and McDonald’s gift vouchers worth 200 baht or donate 20 baht for a postcard from now until December 31, 2012. More information, please contact Ronald McDonald House Charity Thailand at Tel.02-696-4928 or http://www. rmhc.or.th or http://www.facebook.com/rmhcthailand From TAT

Navy boats to be scuttled at Krabi dive sites Dive sites around Krabi are about to get a whole lot more interesting with the addition of 4 new wrecks that are due to be sunk in and around the islands. The sites include the Ao Nang local island of Koh Yawasam and Viking Cave on Phi Phi Ley. The request for the decommissioned vessels was put in over two years ago as members had calculated the undersea attractions would draw an extra 5,000 divers a year to Krabi. The four ships are the HTMS Kolam, Rawee, Pra Tong and Talibong. Over time, the boats will become artificial coral reefs and safe habitats for the marine life that thrives in the Andaman Sea. Khun Chuan Pukaoluan said the hulls and superstructures of the sunken vessels would protect marine life from fishing nets and discarded debris.    He added that the vessels had to be cleaned up for their new homes so that they were environmentally safe and then towed here. He finished up by saying the estimated 10 million Baht cost of the exercise was being borne by private enterprises in Krabi.   The advisory panel says its aims are to conserve marine resources and also educate domestic and international tourists about what lies beneath the waves. There are regular reports in both Krabi and nearby Phuket’s media outlets of injured turtles and dolphins being washed ashore. This is fantastic news for the local community, not just the divers amongst us. It has long been known that the many discarded fishing nets that get caught in the coral reefs cause devastating damage to the marine ecosystem, and these wrecks will undoubtedly raise the reputation of “local diving” off the coast of Ao Nang. The boats are due to be towed from Bangkok in a 10 day voyage that we here at Krabi Magazine will be following closely. We also intend to be there when the boats are sunk, so watch this space for more info on this exciting development!

Road to be Widened in Ao Nang It has come to our attention that the 4203 road that leads past Mc Donald’s down to the beach in Ao Nang is to undergo considerable re-development in the very near future, The plan is to apparently widen it to accommodate 2 lanes of traffic in each direction. This is causing grumblings amongst the business owners that operate along this busy strip, as the extra space needed will mean they lose a portion of their “shop front” space that they have outside their establishments. Measurements have been taken, and now it remains to be seen when the work will commence and to what extent.

Thailand Wins Again! Thailand has won the TTG Travel Awards 2012 for the “Outstanding Achievement Award: Destination of the Year”, organised by TTG Asia Media, a leading travel and tourism publisher and events organiser in the Asia-Pacific. The award was accepted by Mrs. Juthaporn Rerngronasa, TAT’s Deputy Governor for International Marketing (Europe, Africa, Middle East and Americas) on behalf of Thailand in the TTG Travel Awards 2012 Ceremony at Centara Grand at Central World on 4 October, 2012.

This comes on the heels of the recent decision to have the vendors that sell food and souvenirs on the same road moved on. It looks like one of the most wellknown roads in the busy town will look very different by this time next year...


Local & National news that matters to you

AirAsia opens Thailand’s Easy Island Transfers AirAsia opens a new service for true travel enthusiasts, allowing them to add convenient transfers to 5 of the most popular south sea islands of Thailand to their ticket purchases via www. airasia.com. Passengers can book this service online starting from September 13, while transfer services will become available starting from October 15. The new 5 island destinations include Samui, Phangan, Phi Phi, Lanta and Lipe Island. Tassapon Bijleveld, CEO of Thai AirAsia, said “We noticed that most travellers to the southern provinces of Phuket, Surat Thani, Krabi, Nakhon Si Thammarat and Hat Yai continue on to either Samui, Phangan, Phi Phi, Lanta or Lipe Island, so it made sense for us to offer transfers to the islands alongside our ticketing service in order to give travelers that added convenience when planning their trips,” said the CEO. Thailand’s Easy Island Transfer service begins by letting customers choose one of the 5 island destinations of Samui, Phangan, Phi Phi, Lanta or Lipe Island. The booking system will then automatically select the nearest airstrip to the island. Upon arrival to the airport, a passenger vehicle will collect them and transport them to the appropriate pier so they may embark on a ferry ride to their chosen island. AirAsia has joined forces with the most trusted local service providers to assure that this service is as enjoyable as it is economical DEET Identified as Killer Krabi police confirmed DEET, a neurotoxic mosquito repellent, caused the deaths of Canadian sisters, Audrey and Noemi Belanger. According to an official autopsy late last month, the chemical DEET was responsible for the deaths of the sisters. The autopsy indicated there were traces of DEET in their bodies and it was the cause of death. Earlier, a news report suggested an autopsy performed after the bodies were returned to Canada had revealed no evidence of mosquito repellent. Information on the Internet suggests the overuse of DEET, which is applied to the skin to repel mosquitoes, can cause seizures, but only four deaths have been reported. “We cannot estimate where and how they got it,” a police investigator said. Earlier news reports suggested DEET was used as an ingredient in a euphoria-inducing cocktail that is popular among youth in Thailand. The drink contains cough syrup, Coke, DEET and ground up kratom leaves, which are a mild narcotic indigenous to Thailand. Police have been ordered to patrol entertainment spots on the popular island to check if illegal drinks are being served at pubs. Meanwhile, Krabi Tourism Association president, Ittirit Kinglek. said the report on the cause of death brings closure and it was now important to rebuild confidence in the island. “Currently,  police and related authorities in Krabi are checking all entertainment venues to increase safety and ensure there are no illegal substances being sold.” “The task now is to ensure travel companies know the truth and can recommend travel once more to the island,” he said. By TR Weekly

Thailand to Hold Majestic Royal Barge Procession on 9 November 2012 Bangkok, October 17, 2012: Global travellers seeking to add another masterpiece event their list of lifetime experiences should pencil 9 November 2012 into their calendars and be in Bangkok to watch the majestic Royal Barge Procession along the Chao Phraya river, The River of Kings. One of the grandest spectacles in Thailand and indeed, the world, the Royal Barge Procession is an ancient tradition that was revived by His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej in 1959. This breathtaking water-borne procession is reserved for nationally auspicious occasions and has been held only 16 times during His Majesty’s reign. The Procession, which this year will commemorate the auspicious occasion of HM the King’s 85th birthday on 5 December 2012, involves barges carrying the deeply revered Buddha image (Phra Buddha Sihing) and members of the royal family to present offerings of saffron kathin robes, food and other necessities to the monks at Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn).   The procession consists of 52 traditional-style barges arranged in five columns, based on a battle formation from ancient times. This is made up of four major royal barges, ten barges with animal figureheads and 38 smaller vessels. The five-column flotilla stretches 1,280 metres in length and 110 across. A total of 2,200 sailors from various units within the Royal Thai Navy will serve as oarsmen. The procession takes approximately 55 minutes to make the 4.5 kilometer journey down the Chao Phraya River to Wat Arun. The official ceremony is expected to end at approximately 5.30 pm. The royal barges of Thailand are the last of their kind in the world. The last time that a royal barge procession was organized was on 12 June 2006 for the diamond jubilee celebrations to mark the 60th anniversary of HM King Bhumibol’s accession to the throne. This year, His Royal Highness Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn will preside over the Royal Barge Procession and Royal Kathin ceremony at Wat Arun on behalf of His Majesty the King. Tickets: Tel: +66 2970 2544 or www.welovebooking.com


Porsches Coming to Krabi A caravan of 29 luxury Porsche cars from Singapore have crossed the Thai-Malaysian border in this southern province for a sightseeing tour along the scenic Andaman Sea coast. Satun and Trang officials and tourism representatives welcomed the group of 50 Singaporean travellers at the Wang Prachan border checkpoint in Satun. Organised by the Singapore Porsche Club, the tour includes three Thai resort provinces: Trang, Krabi and Phang-nga in southern Thailand. Rosi Baikadem, deputy chief of the Satun provincial administration, said the arrival of the high-end travellers could be a good impetus for other groups in the future. A new tourism route from Satun and Trang will be mapped by the two provinces, he said.

thailand’s top 10 countries for tourism receipts january to march 2012 Country

Arrivals

Revenue (billion baht)

Charge (%)

Russia

461,017

27.75

+32.29

China

579.371

23.65

+43.82

UK

222.553

14.87

+13.47

Germany

220.005

13.78

+13.71

Malaysia

620.699

13.70

+12.86

Australia

210.987

13.50

+25.72

USA

198.772

13.40

+21.35

Sweden

173.145

12.72

+7.11

Japan

326.112

11.88

+17.93

France

117.057

11.30

+14.33

Country

Arrivals

Revenue (baht)

Charge (%)

Hong Kong

116.146

5.599.70

+4.88

Saudi Arabia

3.838

5.364.49

+4.69

South Africa

14.743

5.193.02

+3/95

U.A.E

31.083

5.158.16

+4.47

Brazil

7.435

5.101.19

+4.80

India

205.093

5.088.79

+6.01

Sri Lanka

13.909

4.997.91

+15.14

Egypt

3.704

4.883.68

+6.06

China

579.371

4.871

+5.36

Korea

290.780

4.853.70

+4.86


Flexible Subscriptions Design your own schedule 1-2-5 Days/Week or only Weekends

DELIVERED ANYWHERE TO - AO NANG - KRABI - KOH LANTA - KLONG MUANG ORDER YOUR NEWSPAPER AT THE RECEPTION OF YOUR HOTEL OR CALL US ON 075 637459

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Ferry Times Origin

Destination

Depart

Arrive

Price (Adult)

Price (Child)*

Ao Nang

Phi Phi

09:00

11:00

450

350

Ao Nang

Phuket

15:30

17:30

700

500

Ao Nang

Lanta

10:30

12:45

470

350

Ao Nang

Phuket

10:30

12:30

700

500

Phuket

Ao Nang

08:30

10:30

700

500

Phuket

Railay

08:30

10:45

700

500

Phuket

Phi PHi

08:30

09:30

700

500

Phuket

Ao Nang

13:30

15:30

700

500

Phuket

Railay

13:13

15:45

700

350

Phuket

Lanta

08:30

17:00

450

350

Phi Phi

Ao Nang

15:30

17:00

450

350

Phi Phi

Railay

15:30

16:45

450

350

Phi Phi

Phuket

14:30

16:00

700

500

Lanta

Ao Nang

13:30

15:30

470

350

Lanta

Railay

13:30

15:15

470

350

Lanta

Phuket

13:30

17:30

900

650

Railay

Phi Phi

09:15

11:00

450

350

Railay

Phuket

15:15

17:30

900

650

Railay

Lanta

10:45

12:45

470

350

Railay

Phiket

10;15

12:30

700

500

The trips between Ao Nang and Phuket run on Wed, Fri & Sun only

Phuket - Aonang Phuket - Aonang Phuket - Railay (pass Ao nang) Phuket - Railay (pass Ao nang) Phuket - Lanta (pass Ao nang , Railay) Phuket - Phi Phi

O/W O/W O/W O/W O/W O/W

Ao Nang - Phi Phi Ao Nang - Lanta Ao Nang - Phuket Ao Nang - Phuket

O/W O/W O/W O/W

Railay - Phi Phi Railay - Lanta Railay - Phuket Railay - Phuket

O/W O/W O/W O/W

Phi Phi - Phuket Phi Phi - Railay Phi Phi - Ao Nang

O/W O/W O/W

Lanta - Railay Lanta - Ao Nang Lanta - Phuket (pass Railay,AoNang)

O/W O/W O/W

Depart. Arrive. 08.30 - 10.15 am. 13.30 - 15.30 pm. 08.30 - 10.45 am. 13.30 - 15.45 pm. 08.30 - 12.45 pm. 08.30 - 09.30 am. Depart. Arrive. 09.00 - 11.00 am. 10.30 - 12.45 pm. 10.30 - 12.30 pm. 15.30 - 17.30 pm. Depart. Arrive. 09.15 - 11.00 am. 10.45 - 12.45 am. 10.30 - 12.30 pm. 15.15 - 17.30 pm. Depart. Arrive. 14.30 - 16.00 pm. 15.30 - 16.45 pm. 15.30 - 17.00 pm. Depart. Arrive. 13.30 - 15.15 pm. 13.30 - 15.30 pm. 13.30 - 17.30 pm.

243 Moo 2, Ao Nang Beach, A. Muang, Krabi 81000 Tel: (66) 075-637152/3, 075-637730 Fax: 075-637153 60/57 Moo 3, T. Rassada, A. Muang, Phuket 83000 Tel: (66) 076-353211-2 Fax: 76-353212


Travel Tips Full Page

Getting Around There are busses, taxis, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, minivans, coaches, scooters, sawng-thaws, longtails, speedboats and more all awaiting you with a smile. What can be tricky sometimes is knowing how much a trip costs, where to buy your tickets and how long a journey should take - things that are starting to become more obvious now than they were before. Thailand is an easy peasy country to travel in, and the people are only to willing to help you on your way with a smile. But first thing’s first - how to get from the airport to your bed for the night? Well, there are a couple of different options...

From Krabi Airport Nice, clean, air-con cars are available to take you anywhere you want to go and can carry up to 4 people. Or you can buy a seat in a minivan for less, but as it can take up to 10 people you may have to wait until they fill it. After collecting your baggage from the carrousel and head towards the exit, you cannot fail to miss the taxi service as they have a couple of woman calling out “Taxi”, accompanied by large signs that proclaim the same. A nice, comfy, air-con sedan car or minivan can take you to anywhere in and around Ao Nang for 600THB or 1050THB respectively. Since it’s the car that costs 600THB and not each person in it, a good tip is to find others that are heading to Ao Nang too and share the costs. A car can carry up to 4 people and a minivan, up to 10 people.

Krabi Town

Car

Minivan

350

600

Ao Nang

600

1050

Klong Muang

700

1100

Tub Kaek

800

1200

Air-Con Bus There is now a regular shuttle bus that runs between the airport and popular destinations like those mentioned above. It also stops at piers where ferries leave for places like Railay and Tonsai. This can be a great option if you are on a budget, but can take a while to get to where you want to go. At the time of publication, the bus left after every flight that arrives into Krabi, and it’s parked right outside the building, so hard to miss. Car Krabi Bus Station

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Krabi Town

90

Lanta Pier

90

Ao Nang

150

Railay Pier

150

Tonsai Pier

150

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Thai

Customs Thailand is one of those countries that have customs very different to what we might be used to in our home countries - and the Thais are extremely proud of that. As we are a visitor in their country, it’s only right and proper that we take a little time to understand some local customs - does and don’ts - that can make a huge difference in your encounters with the locals. They will really appreciate you making the effort and it can go a long way in making your stay here more fulfilling.

H

ere are a few of the more important things to remember - they are simple, cost nothing and are all based in common sense.

Dress

It’s one of the great ironies of life that the one place in Thailand that has the best beaches, ocean and blazing hot sun, is also one of the most conservative when it comes to dressing. The predominantly Muslim population here in the South can take real offense to any tourist wandering into their shop with just a bikini on, or tiny shorts for the guys. I know, you’re on holiday and you deserve that tan - I understand. But here, bikinis are for the beach and only the beach. Please, please, please try to appreciate the cultural differences here and cover up a little when heading to and from the beach. Guys, just pull on a pair of board shorts and T-shirt. No-one wants to see another pair of fluorescent Speedos making their way around the town. Ladies - simple. Sarongs. Dead cheap, available everywhere, take up no space, dry in a heartbeat and can be used a hundred different ways. Wrap one around your waist or shoulders when heading off the beach and you’re sorted.

Royalty

The Thai Royal Family is revered and there can be no worse “faux pas” than joke about the King. Some have actually been thrown in jail for making “uncivil remarks” about their beloved leader. It’s serious business and you should take note. You’ll see his image absolutely everywhere, which should give you a good idea of the respect and love he has from the Thai population.

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Just use common sense and you’ll be fine. If in doubt about what you should do in any given situation - just do what the Thais around you are doing and you can’t go wrong.

Religion

Respect is the name of the game when visiting a temple or encountering a wandering monk. Again, no speedos. As a rule of thumb, make sure that your shoulders and knees are covered (especially the ladies) and you’ll be fine. Remember the mantra - “bring a sarong and you can’t go wrong”.

Monks

Buddhist monks are forbidden to make direct physical contact with women. This means that if a woman has to give anything to a monk, she must first hand it to a man who then can pass it on. Sometimes the monk will lay out a piece of his robe on the ground, where the lady can then place the object and he can pick it up.

Buddha

Sacred and revered. Even if it’s a ruined, half destroyed statue of the deity - treat it with the utmost respect and you’ll shine in the eyes of the Thais. Common sense again - don’t clamber up onto one and make bunny ears behind it for a photo. If you want to take a picture of a statue, please do so respectfully and, if possible, ask a passing monk if it’s ok to do so. It may seem a bit odd to us, but it’s a real big deal to Thai people - so who are we to argue?

Head & Feet

In Buddhism, the feet are seen as the lowest part of the body and the head the highest - both literally as well as figuratively. This means that you should never point your feet at a Thai, a monk or a statue of Buddha. Instead, sit with your feet under your knees like the statue of Buddha here or even cross-legged if you have glass joints like mine. Also, try never to step over someone who is lying in your path (sleeping, presumably) as the act of passing the soles of your feet across them can be just as bad or worse than the feet-pointing. The head is seen as the most “holy” part of the body and as such, should not be touched. This means no playful ruffling of that cheeky boy’s hair or patting of kids heads. I know, to us it’s a gesture of affection. To Thais, it’s very offensive.

Shoes

Easy, this one take your shoes or flip flops off at the entrance to any indoor space. If in any doubt, look for other flip flops at the doorway and leave yours there with them. Resorts are the exception to this, as are


most restaurants - but absolutely take them off if entering a Wat (temple) or a Thai’s home.

Saying “Hi” - Thai Style

The “Wai” is the traditional Greeting here in Thailand - similar to the handshake in the west. It’s usually performed by a “lower class” of person when greeting a superior, who can then return the gesture. You’ve all seen it as soon as you arrived at your resorts - I have no doubt. The “Wai-er” places the palms of their hands together like their about to pray and then bends forwards at the waist. It’s good practice to return the gesture too and the Thais really appreciate it. Just put your hands together with the tips of your fingers touching your chin and bend forward a little while saying “Sawadee krap” if you’re of the manly persuasion or “Sawadee kaa” if a lady. You may notice that sometimes you are addressed as “Mr. Bob” or “Miss. Jane” instead of your family name. This is just the way Thai people address their peers, usually with the first name.

Kissing

Public displays of affection are a big no-no all over Thailand, and should be avoided. No snogging in the restaurant please - or you will be faced with a sea of red-faced Thai’s all avoiding you.

Shopping

Thailand is an excellent place to pick up some bargains, and haggling is expected amongst customers and vendors. Remember to take the “softly-softly” approach and don’t be aggressive. In some parts of the world, haggling can take the form of a shouting match with arms flailing, spit flying and lots of walking way and pulling back. Not so here. That kind of behavior will get you nowhere. Smile and ask what their best price is and take it from there. Keep your voice calm and quiet and never, ever lose your temper.

So there you have it. Try these simple tips and feel pleased with yourself for making the effort. It’s not as difficult as you might think, and it really doesn’t matter if you get it wrong!

Some of the best things to buy here in Thailand are: • • • • • • • •

Leather Jewelry Silk Wooden carvings Art (Paintings, Batik, etc.) Ceramics Silverware Precious gems


Meet the Locals Akradej “Oh” Chakjinda In this month’s “Meet the Locals” we talk to Pi Oh. Artist, musician, philosopher, and Krabi local. Born right here in Krabi town and still living on the same patch of land where he was born. Pi Oh and his family are a core part of the Krabi community and are loved and respected by all who know them. Stewart Whitfield from Krabi Imaging went interview him, and what a tale he had to tell...

Oh’s father hard at work in Krabi KM: Pi Oh, we understand that you were born right here in Krabi town. Tell us how your family came to settle here in Krabi Town. Pi Oh: My Mum is a local born here in Krabi. My Dad is from Bangkok and came to Krabi 40 years ago just to visit cousins. He fell in love with Krabi and at the same time fell in love with my Mum! He returned to Bangkok to finish his studies then came back to Krabi to marry my Mum and work and live here in Krabi. KM: Your Father played an important role in the development of Krabi - can you tell us a bit about that? Pi Oh: After my father finished his studies, he worked for the government as a surveyor and they sent him to Krabi. My father was the chief surveyor for all the road construction that you see now in downtown Krabi. Back then, the central government did not have too much control of town planning in faraway provinces, so much of the town

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planning back then was at the whim of land owners and also the temple in the middle of Krabi Town. To this day, most of downtown Krabi is owned by the temple and one family, though I am proud to think that my father helped plan and build the roads that are the center of Krabi Town. KM: Tell us a little about your earliest memories of being a kid in Krabi town. Pi Oh: Back when I was a kid I remember that Krabi was split into four parts. The Muslim people lived in Rim Chon - the low-lying area down by the river estuary. The Chinese stayed in what is now Chao Fa road, where the main tourist area is with all the guest houses, bars and coffee shops. Then the Thai Buddhists had the high side of town where the temple is and also the area that is known as Talad Khao. Back then, Talad Khao was the center of everything as it was on the main road from Trang to Krabi. There was just a small dirt road to get from Krabi Town down to Talad Khao that ran next to the river. The parks and

gardens that are now Tara Park were just swampland that nobody wanted. KM: Krabi has changed a lot since you were a kid. Do you think Krabi will head the way of Phuket or Pattaya in the future? Pi Oh: I really hope not and I think that Krabi can learn from the mistakes of other parts of Thailand that were developed too rapidly without planning or environmental sensitivity. I am sad to see many of Krabi’s beaches have been polluted and overdeveloped but........ this is Thailand right?? KM: Rumour has it that you entered the monk-hood for a while recently - can you tell us a bit about that? Pi Oh: I have been a monk three times in my life; the first time when I was just a little boy and the last time was four years ago here at Tiger Cave Temple. I am a philosopher at heart and actually have a Doctorate of Philosophy. I will never be far away from


being a monk and for sure it is not the last time I will wear the monk robes. At the moment, I teach Buddhist philosophy to novice monks 8 hours a week. KM: I hear that you have travelled extensively overseas in the past years - tell us about that and what keeps you coming back to Krabi? Pi Oh: I first travelled overseas when I was only 19. I went to South Korea, following a girl I was in love with. I had planned to stay there for a month but returned to Thailand after just ten days as I was frustrated at being unable to communicate with anybody. Local people would just walk away from me when I spoke English. They were very different than Thai people! Since then I have lived worked and travelled in many countries, but I would never dream of moving away from Krabi. This is my home and here are my family. I love Krabi and will live here forever. I spent a lot of time in Scotland where I established a Thai catering company with my partner, Launa. It is still going to this day.

The Maharat Rd in Krabi, circa 1975

KM: Tell us about that famous Tattoo of yours. Pi Oh: I like to think that when I do something I always do it for a reason. In 2004 when the tsunami came, many of the dead (including friends of mine) were only identifiable by their tattoos. So I thought I should get a tattoo. I could not decide what to get, so I tattooed my name, address and Mum’s phone number! If ever something terrible happens to me at least they will know where to send me and who to call....... KM: Now lets talk about your latest enterprise here in Krabi town -The Amata bar. Pi Oh: My uncle opened the first ever bar for tourists in Krabi Town many, many years ago. It was on Majharat Road in the middle of Krabi Town - next to what is now the Vogue department store. It is long gone and now there is a 7-Eleven and noodle bar there. Anyway, he named his bar “Amata Bar” and we still own the business name to this day. A couple of years ago the Krabi Night Plaza opened and we decided to re-open the Amata Bar. We only open three nights a week and it’s a place where friends and family can come and have a drink and listen to live music. Come and join us, please! KM: So Oh, You seem to have tried your hand at all kinds of things until now. What does the future hold for you?

If found, please return to... Pi Oh: Well, I think we are going to close Amata Bar soon as I just don’t really have the time to keep it going. My next plan is to establish a production studio here in Krabi. I have worked a lot in the film and television industry in my life, so I have lots of contacts. Many overseas films and TV commercials come to Krabi for shooting, but they alway use a Bangkok production house. I would like to change that.

If you want to connect with Pi Oh find him on Facebook at...... www.facebook.com/akatecho.agaligo

KM: Thanks so much for talking to us today Pi Oh. You really are a true Krabi local! What advice can you give to new people coming to live in Krabi? Pi Oh: Please respect our environment and take care of the Krabi community. Try to part of our community, be patient with us and enjoy living in the most beautiful part of Thailand!

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Well bread Rye, bagel, ciabatta, farmer, pitta, black rice, cambicon, French baguette, plain white, focaccia, nan, bun and kraftkorn.

T

hese are the 13, yes, 13 different types of bread that you can choose from when ordering your sandwich-deluxe from U&P Homemade Bakery. Add to this a choice of basil pesto, garlic mayo, tomato chutney, honey mustard and BBQ sauces, and before you even get to the fillings you have a unique masterpiece in the making. U&P Homemade bakery is a rare breed in Ao Nang, as it caters almost exclusively to the foreign stomach but is ran by a Thai couple. Khun Ying and her husband, Khun Prasert have been getting up obscenely early for 5 years in order to bring us westerners a hit of that real, home baked bread we were brought up on. It had been almost 3 years since I stopped by for a bite here, so when we were invited to come for lunch I jumped at the chance. It was a scorching hot morning when the Krabi Magazine limo pulled up at the ample parking space in front of U&P and we were very glad to be warmly welcomed and seated by Khun Ying herself in the shade of a large parasol outside. We were soon presented with something I was really and truly not expecting. Now Thailand is renowned the world over for it’s amazing cuisine. We even leave our own countries to come and stay here - the food being a part of the decision (whether we admit it or not). But in my humble experience, the sandwich has not always been well represented. So you can imaging my surprise when a 3 specimens of carbtastic deliciousness touched down gently in front of our quivering palates. A bagel filled with prawns, wilted spinach and cheese sauce; a rye bread creation with tender beef marinated in ginger, chilli, garlic and curry powder and and my personal favourite, ciabatta bread with marinated chicken, walnuts, onions, bell peppers and cheddar cheese. To be honest, they had me at Ciabatta. There’s a saying that insists that one must feed the eye before feeding the body, and this was most definitely the case here.

Info Opening hours: 6am - 5pm Free WiFi: Yes What’s good here? The lasagne has been touted as being one of the best in the area, and the sandwiches are terrific.

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As well as being well thought out and well prepared, the dishes looked fantastic. Thought had gone into the presentation and it was evident that each sandwich was “built”, rather than just slapped together between 2 slices of bread. We got stuck in and actually had to take a doggy bag away with us to delve into at lunch time, there was such a feast before us. Looking through their menu, it turned out that they do much more than just sandwiches. I saw lasagne, croissants, burgers and salads, as well as a couple of especially tasty looking items like pumpkin soup and a chilli & mango salad. They also have a couple of Thai dishes on the menu which, if they are prepared as well as the rest of the food here, will be well work a try. The U&P Bakery is firmly cementing itself in the community as a place for foreigners and Thais alike to come and enjoy some great food, well prepared and plenty of it. I can only see this place becoming more and more of a haven for ex-pats to gather, meet and enjoy the real taste of “home” and I, for one, plan to be one of them.


Eating Guide CARNIVORE - Steak & Grill Soi Klong Haeng opposite Thai Village Resort, Ao Nang. They say that the prof of the pudding is in the eating, and the same goes for steaks. The quality of what this kitchen produces is extremely hard to beat - and the experience of the owner Gidi is evident as you walk into the elegant and pristine restaurant. Gidi worked for 15 years in the restaurant business before starting Carnivore back in 2003 - and he has never looked back. All main courses come with salad and a choice of six different potato dishes that include homemade french fries and mashed potato to die for. As well as the 5-star meat selection, Carnivore also offers some of the finest salads, soups, crispy baguettes, grilled sandwiches and warm starters around - as well as no less than 60 beers from around the world. Yes, 60.

Average price: 400-900+THB What to Try: The “Carnivore” signature Steak Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 3pm - 11pm. (Kitchen open from 4pm - 10pm) Tel:+66 (0)75661061 Website: www.carnivore-thailand.com

DA CARLA - Italian and Thai Restaurant Noppharathara Beach, inside Sabai Resort.

For some of the best Italian food you will find in Ao Nang and beyond, you should look no further than this place. Nestled just off Noppharathara Beach and next to Sabai Resort, Da Carla & Poan is a small, informal place owned and managed by an Italian couple who are long-time residents here. As well as great Thai food, this is the place for some real-deal homemade pasta just like it should be made. The hand-filled ravioli and homemade desserts that are on the menu are very hard to argue with. Great meat selection too, with quality steak and the freshest seafood you could hope to find. As you would expect, a good selection of imported wine is also available, as well as imported Belgian beers.

Average price: 250+THB What to Try: The hand-filled ravioli Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 7:30am - 2:30pm and 5:30pm - 9:30pm Tel:+66 (0)75637791 Website: www.sabairesort.com

THE IRISH ROVER - Irish Pub & Restaurant Heading towards Ao Nang beach on the “Mc Donalds Road”, look for the pint of Guinness... The Irish Rover has one of the largest draught beer selections in Southern Thailand, including Kilkenny and a very nice pint of Guinness. Irish ciders Magners and Strongbow are also available for those hot days when nothing else will hit the spot. The kitchen is open until 1am, serving excellent food in generous portions. Expect to see homemade pies, tender steaks, juicy chops, shepherd’s pie (made with Guinness) as well as ploughman’s lunches, bangers and mash and more. Happy hours & drink specials are worth watching out for. Air-conditioned, live sports, pool table and a darts board all complete this little slice of Ireland right here in Ao Nang.

Average price: 250+THB What to Try: The home made pies Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 4pm - 1am. Tel:+66 (0)75637607 Website: www.irishpubaonang.com

U&P Homemade Bakery 401/4 Ao Nang, Krabi. End of Na Thai Road. U&P Homemade Bakery has been around for a few years now and has secured itself a place in the hearts and stomachs of many locals and ex-pats in the Ao Nang area. Being one of the very few bakeries in town that bakes a good loaf of bread, U&P also have a great array - and display - of pastries, cakes, flatbreads, rolls, buns and even breadsticks to choose from. They have a fairly extensive menu as well, meaning you can get more than just a decent cup of coffee and croissant in the morning. Lunchtime is sorted with a great selection of western and Thai dishes - the sandwiches being a firm favorite thanks to the freshness of the bread being used and the decent sized portions served up. Their early morning opening is perfect if you want to get a head start on your day, and the free WiFi makes hanging out here a longer pleasure as you can catch up with work or friends online.

What to Try: Sandwiches Free WiFi?: Yes Average Price: 100THB Opening Hours: 6am - 5pm Tel.: 081-8956670

Located a little out of town for most of the tourist trade, they are certainly worth a look in if you find yourself in the Na Thai area on the outskirts of Ao Nang. You won’t be disappointed!

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Eating Guide Smiling Dog Café - Crêperie Located on main street, opposite KL House in AoNang

The wonderfully titled Smiling Dog Café offers gourmet food without the gourmet price tag. Serving a wide variety of hot and iced drinks and breakfast all day, as well as some of the finest filled crêpes you’ll find anywhere in the South of Thailand. An extensive menu that includes traditional sweet treats like their famous banana and chocolate filled “Chunky Monkey” or “Caramel and Apple”, the Smiling Dog Café also offers plenty to cater for those who prefer a savoury bite. Salmon & cream cheese, Tex Mex and vegetarian options are some of their highlights, and you can even create your own with a wide selection of tasty ingredients.

Average price: 89 THB What to Try: The Chunky Monkey or Tex Mex Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 7am - 5pm. Tel:+66 (0)809-298-297 Website: www.thesmilingdogcafe.com

With freshly ground coffee, comfy seating inside and out, a selection of local and International newspapers and free WiFi, the Smiling Dog Café is a great little place to ease into your day in comfort and style.

The Red Devil - Grill & Lounge

Just outside Ao Nang at the Ao Nammao junction. Big red building.

With their focus set firmly on comfort and quality, the Red Devil offers a mouthwatering selection of gourmet steaks, burgers, salads, pizzas and pastas - all top quality and cooked to exacting standards by Italian chef and owner, Umberto. The jewel in the crown of the Red Devil is it’s upstairs VIP lounge area that’s open to the public as well as being bookable for private functions like Birthday parties, meetings and get-togethers with friends. Sumptuously decorated with oversized cushions, low tables and carpeting throughout, “lounging” is almost obligatory. Soft lighting, a dedicated music system and even a “waitress call-button” all make for a wonderfully unique and relaxing atmosphere that really has to be seen to be appreciated.

Average price: 200+THB What to Try: The steaks, pasta & burgers Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: After Dinner... Tel:+66 (0) 83 175-6938 Website: www.reddevilaonang.com

New lunch specials are now available, offering great discounts on set meals. Call for details or pass by and check the chalkboard outside

BELLINI @ Amari Vogue Resort & Spa 149 Moo 3, Tambol Nongtalay, Amphur Muang Krabi 81000

For a beachfront location that will make you linger by the water all night long, pull up a chair at Bellini restaurant. Specializing in authentic Italian cuisine, Bellini has perfected a delicious menu of handmade pastas, gourmet pizza as well as taking full advantage of its seaside locale with delicious seafood specialties and international highlights.

LOTUS @ Amari Vogue Resort & Spa Take your tastebuds on a world tour at Lotus restaurant. This laid-back Krabi restaurant features authentic Thai cuisine to suit every craving. With an elegant dining room as well as a terrace for outdoor dining, Lotus is the perfect choice for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

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Average price: 400++THB What to Try: Bellini’s seafood and Lotus’s carpaccio Free WiFi?: For hotel guests only Opening Hours: Daily. Bellini from 11am 11pm and Lotus from 6:30am - Midnight Tel: +66 (0) 7560 7777 Website: www.amari.com/vogue


Eating Guide Venezia @ Sofitel

Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort

200 Moo.3 Klong Muang Beach, Tambon Nongtalay, Muang, Krabi Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort’s Ristorante Venezia serves up gourmet cuisine featuring traditional Italian recipes, pizzas straight from the wood-fired oven & a large selection of wines from all over the globe. Located on the first floor of the resort & next to the grand lobby, tables are available for either indoor dining or on the outdoor terrace, al fresco style, with panoramic views of the ocean and tropical gardens. Specialties include the Albero di Antipasti, at THB++600, a delicious selection of 6 of your favourite anti pasti choices, perfect when you can’t decide from their extensive menu choices.

Average price: 400++THB What to Try: BThe antipasti & ravioli frutti di mare Free WiFi?: No Opening Hours: Open daily from 6pm - 11pm. Tel:+66 (0)75627800 Email: fbsales@sofitelphokeethrakrabi.com Website: www.sofitel.com/6184

Another must try is the Ravioli Frutti di Mare at THB440++, delectable homemade ravioli stuffed with the freshest Andaman seafood and served in a mouthwatering creamy crab meat sauce!

Gecko’s restaurant @ The Sheraton Resort & Spa 155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Krabi The signature restaurant of Sheraton Krabi features fresh pastas, salads and delicious selections from authentic Italian home cooking to pizzas baked in a traditional wood burning oven. Enjoy breathtaking ocean views and the Andaman Sea breeze while dining at this prestigious resort, known the world over for it’s top quality dining experiences. With a mouth-watering array of choices on the menu, you are quite literally spoiled for choice when it comes down to it.

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The pizzas Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 11am -11pm. Tel: +66 (0)75628000 Website: www.sheraton.com/krabi

Great food in a 5-star location with meticulous attention to detail. What more could you ask for?

Cleopatra - Egyptian Restaurant & Shisha On the main road to Ao Nang beach, after Mc Donalds This is without a doubt one of the best things to hit the Ao Nang dining scene this season. The food here is North African and Arabic, so think home-made hummus, baba ghanoush, eggplant curry, falafel and kebabs and you get some idea of what to expect. They have a vast array of dishes that ranges from lamb biryani and pasta to T-Bone steaks and mashed potatoes. Although you must banish any image of a greasy, late night kebab house - this place does it in style. This is the only place around that offers the traditional shisa pipe along with a variety of fruit flavours that are all worth a go - especially if you haven’t tried them before. They use a non-tobacco formula that is pretty unique, and a lot better for you as well.

Average Price: 250+THB Shisha: 200 - 450THB What to Try: Hummus, breads, lamb Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Daily from Noon - 2am Tel: +66 (0)82 1951982 email: cleopatra_krabi@hotmail.com

They compliment their dishes with a selection of 6 different breads that are all baked on-site in a large outdoors bread oven. Their BBQ grill is just as impressive and there can be nothing better than sitting on the terrace sipping a cool drink and watching your selection being cooked in front of you. If you fancy a change from Thai food during your stay in Krabi, this offers some delicious respite in very comfortable surroundings and wonderful service - right in the heart of Ao Nang.

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The Longtailboat located at seafood street, offering spectacular views over the bay of Ao-nang. We’re dedicated to providing our guests with brilliant times in a chic and relaxed setting with our good service, here you will find a superb dining experience and great memories. Our experienced chefs proudly present you our authentic Thai and European cuisine. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality from the fisherman boat at reasonable price.

Information:

Menu sample :

Contact: 075 638 093

01. our "The princess of ao nang" signature experience of Assorted seafood deep fried with sweet plum sauce.

Average cost per person: 500 Bt.

02. " Stir fried snapper fish with black pepper sauce" with garlic butter fried rice

House wine per bottle: 900 - 1,800 Bt.

03. " Massaman Tiger prawns" served with Roti bread

Credit Cards: Visa, Master

04. Barbecued "Jumbo prawns" with vegetable and sweet sour sauce served with steamed rice

Service & Tax: No Charge Popular dish: "Guarantee fresh Seafood"

European sample:

delivery every day from the fisherman boat

01. Lasagna classica bolognese

(most fishing from Ao nang sea)

02. Pizza "Quattro Formaggi"

Open from: 13:00 last order 22:30

03. Cozze al vino bianco - new zealand mussels in our creamy white wine sauce . A traditional Italian recipe

facebook page: Thelongtailboat restaurant,Krabi

04. Australian Angus "Tenderlion" with red wine sauce served with baked potato and grilled vegetable

e-mail: thelongtailboat@gmail.com

05. Grilled Fillet of Sea Bass with White Wine cream Sauce - served with fresh salad and garlic bread

For taxi: รานอาหารเดอะ ลองเทลโบท

* Vegetarian Selection

34อยูในซอยอาวนางซีฟูด ริมทะเลหาดอาวนาง


Eat, Drink and be Merry An evening at Venezia Italian Restaurant

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y previous forays into the preparation of Italian cuisine have left much to be desired. Latenight inebriated fumblings in a student house in Edinburgh many years ago would render out such masterpieces as boiled spaghetti with a can of tomato soup thrown in. The topping of half a pound of grated cheddar cheese did little to improve the taste, texture, or feelings of impending gastric distress. But those were different days and I pondered my soup and pasta creations as we sat down at a perfectly prepared table with a view of the ocean at “Venezia”, one of the restaurants at the Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Resort & Spa in Klong Muang.

up comic. A local from Krabi, this young man has a perfect blend of consummate professionalism and light-hearted banter that instantly banished any “stiff upper lipp-edness” that some luxury resorts can foster. We took to him instantly.

dishes that looked amazing and tasted even better. Grilled zucchni & aubergine with thyme, pesto marinated mozzarella with sun dried tomatoes, scallops grilled with rosemary were all prepared to perfection and devoured with gusto.

We were shown menus that looked good enough to eat by themselves and Andy whispered to us conspiratorially that the chef had just that evening released a new menu that had never been tasted by anyone outside the kitchen. I was sold.

The entree appeared soon after and while I went for the Australian sirloin with grilled asparagus, Pamela opted for some hand-made ravioli frutti de mare, all complimented beautifully by a great bottle of red.

We began with a selection of antipasti

Even though we were full to the brim, the dessert menu that was eased into our perspiring palms with the light-fingered touch of Fagin himself, was enough to have us sigh in resignation. A work of art masquerading as a tiramisu appeared before us, as well as a “Trio of Lemon” - lemon sorbet, tart & mousse with fresh fruit that we somehow managed to find space for.

If you have never been to the Sofitel, it’s an experience in itself just to wander through the massive entrance lobby and out onto the walkways that meander through the resort. On this night, we were met by David Raine, the Training Manager in charge of English & Development who accompanied us for the start of the evening. With an impressive view over the Andaman sea, the waning sun just begs you to sit down at the nearest available upholstered sofa and watch it dip into the horizon with a hand crafted cocktail. I was just about to voice these words to anyone within earshot when, at my side, appeared an impeccably dressed young man with a cocktail list as long as someone else’s arm. By my own admission, I am nowhere near a cocktail aficionado, so I asked David for recommendations. It just so happened that there was a “cocktail of the month” running, and that sounded just fine, thank you very much.

W Aussie sirloin and a French red. Yum.

The service was impeccable, the food matched it and the atmosphere was truly unique. With a triple-punch combo like this, an evening at Venezia is one that should most definately be considered during your stay in Krabi. No more soup and spaghetti for me...

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few moments later, I was sitting on the aforementioned sofa, gazing out at the sunset whilst sipping a cocktail crafted so beautifully it was almost a shame to drink it. Almost, but not quite. The combination of fine single malt scotch, cardamom, orange foam and cinnamon was undeniably unique and downright delicious. So after polishing off my second, we were steered to our table where we were introduced to Andy, the restaurant manager and potential part-time stand

e lingered on over our desserts for far longer than we should have, thoroughly agitating our awaiting babysitter - but it was a pleasure not only because of the quality of the food, but By the way we were treated by the staff. There was laughter from both ourselves and the staff, they were happy to come and take photos for us, recommend anything and just chat to us about kids, the weather and more. This was what I took away from the evening, even more so than the food.

Andy helps out with a tricky lighting situation

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Day of the Living Dead I t’s thought that the festival started in Phuket after a wandering Chinese opera troupe fell ill with malaria whist performing on the island. They soon came to believe that they had fallen sick because they had not worshipped or shown respect to the nine emperor gods from the Chinese Daoist belief. In order to try and make up for this, they vowed to remain pure for the first 9 days of the 9th lunar month. This is where the vegetarian aspect comes in, as they chose not to kill any living thing or eat meat as part of their penance. They also performed various rituals to their emperor gods.

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 They were soon healed, greatly impressing the local population, who embraced the faith, the ceremonies, and the rituals, which have become increasingly popular over the years. The Vegetarian Festival, called Prapheni Kin Jay or Prapheni Kin Phak in Thai (The Festival for Eating Vegetables), is now one of the major annual events on the Chinese calendar and is celebrated throughout many cities in Thailand including Krabi.   Like with anything in life, there are always groups that take things to the extreme. This is where the “Mah Song” come in…

Self mutilation is a touchy subject at best, and even touchier in a light-hearted travel magazine such as this. But we aim to cover all the best that Krabi has to offer, so it would be remiss of us to ignore what happens next.

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he Mah Song (which interestingly translates as “entranced horses”) must be pure of heart in order to take part in the self-flagellation process, so they are unmarried. They congregate at the local Chinese temple in Krabi and are placed into a trance-like state by various procedures and a series of chants. This is apparently


Photos by Stewart @ www.krabiimaging.com

If you happen to be in the South of Thailand in September and October, you may find yourself in for a big surprise. Every year at this time, the legendary Vegetarian Festival takes place, with a very unusual centerpiece to it’s events.

very powerful as many of them end up looking like zombies from a horror movie, with their eyes rolled back in their sockets.   hen they are suitably under the influence, they then set about their task. They cut themselves with machetes, push spikes through their cheeks, climb ladders made of razor blades, sit on chairs studded with nails, and more. It may seem almost incredible, but you can see such things as knives, swords, spikes, machetes, axes and even truly bizarre items like bicycle frames and shovels piercing some faces! I kid ye not...

what they are doing to themselves. They say that the evil spirits see the pureness of their souls through their actions and are scared away. But it’s not all blood and gore, thankfully. As with most things in Thailand, there is always a focus on the food. This is a great time for all vegetarians especially, as there is a lot more choice amongst the vendors. You will find that many places even sell “fake meat” dishes, that consist of flour dumplings or soy protein, shaped and coloured to look like the real thing. While not the healthiest option, they taste great and are completely meat-free.

The belief amongst the Ma Song is that these rituals will draw the evil away from their local community and onto themselves. Whether or not this is true, we shall never really know. But to those that participate in the festivities, it means a lot.

It’s easy to spot the sellers that are adhering to the principles of the festival, as they will be displaying yellow and red all over the place. Flags, vertical banners and clothing in these contrasting colours all symbolise a meat-free zone, and veggies can rest assured that they can eat to their heart’s content.

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So does it hurt? Well, apparently not. Those that take part claim to feel no pain despite

BE WARNED!! It is not for the faint of heart - or stomach - and if you have small kids, well, it’s the stuff of nightmares. The photos here are the tamest of what we shot, and there can be a lot of blood on the streets - a lot of blood. If you can stomach it though, the vegetarian festival is one of those truly unique things that you may never get the chance to witness again and if you are travelling through Krabi at this time, you should try to get a glimpse into this fascinating slice of Thai tradition.

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INTO THE BLUE Record Cleanup Haul for Phuket

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ver 650 divers and beach cleaners took part in the biggest Dive Against Debris event in the world with PADI Dive Centres working together as part of a recently formed group called Go Eco Phuket. They removed around 15 tonnes of rubbish including a massive discarded fishing net that weighed in at 4.5 tonnes. This was one of the largest DAD event in the world and combined with the

massive amounts of rubbish collected, made this the most effective marine cleanup operation ever seen in Thailand. They were aided in no small part by incredible support from local businesses, the Royal Navy, Tourism Authority of Thailand, Marine Fisheries, Marine Police, Phuket Marine Biological Centre, Army and the Thai Aor- Ba-Jor. This is a prime example of what can be achieved when a local community puts

Aqua Vision now PADI 5-Star IDC PADI 5 Star IDC Aqua-Vision, Are now proudly a PADI 5 Star IDC centre, meaning that they can teach up to the level of instructor. Well done guys!

, Latitude 07° 49 54” N HOURS DAYS

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www.aqua-vision.net

Well done all who took part - a fantastic achievement and an amazing help to the oceans that you should be proud of!

Krabi Tides November 2012 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Aqua Vision opened it’s small, friendly Dive Shop in the beautiful resort of Ao Nang Beach in 1997, offering guided diving and PADI dive courses to Krabi’s few lucky visitors, since then the shop has developed into a successful PADI 5-star Dive Resort offering liveaboard dive trips, scuba equipment sales and full package dive holidays.

their minds to a cause they deem is worthwhile, and the marine environment affects every simple one of us on the planet. Those of us that live in the Krabi province probably more so as the ocean is such an integral part of our lives.

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, Longtitude 98° 25 30” E

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2.9 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.0 2.7 2.5 2.2 1.9 1.6 1.5 1.6 2.0 2.4 2.9 3.2 3.4 3.3 3.1 2.7 2.3 2.0 1.7 1.6 1.6 1.7 1.9 2.2 2.5 2.8

2.4 2.6 2.8 2.9 2.9 2.8 2.6 2.3 2.0 1.6 1.3 1.2 1.3 1.7 2.2 2.7 3.0 3.2 3.1 2.9 2.5 2.2 1.8 1.5 1.4 1.3 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.2

1.8 2.1 2.3 2.6 2.7 2.7 2.6 2.5 2.2 1.8 1.4 1.1 0.9 1.1 1.5 2.0 2.5 2.8 3.0 2.9 2.7 2.4 2.0 1.7 1.4 1.2 1.1 1.2 1.4 1.6

1.3 1.5 1.8 2.1 2.3 2.5 2.6 2.5 2.4 2.1 1.7 1.2 0.9 0.8 0.9 1.3 1.8 2.3 2.6 2.7 2.7 2.5 2.2 1.9 1.6 1.3 1.1 1.0 1.0 1.2

1.0 1.1 1.4 1.6 1.9 2.2 2.4 2.5 2.5 2.4 2.0 1.6 1.1 0.8 0.7 0.8 1.2 1.7 2.1 2.4 2.6 2.6 2.4 2.2 1.9 1.6 1.3 1.1 1.0 1.0

1.0 1.0 1.1 1.3 1.6 1.9 2.2 2.4 2.6 2.6 2.4 2.1 1.6 1.1 0.8 0.7 0.8 1.2 1.6 2.1 2.4 2.5 2.5 2.4 2.2 1.9 1.7 1.4 1.2 1.0

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1.7 1.5 1.4 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.7 2.0 2.4 2.7 2.9 2.9 2.7 2.3 1.9 1.4 1.1 1.0 1.1 1.4 1.8 2.1 2.4 2.6 2.7 2.6 2.5 2.3 2.1 1.8

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2.3 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.6 2.5 2.3 2.0 1.7 1.3 1.1 1.1 1.4 1.8 2.3 2.6 2.8 2.9 2.7 2.4 2.1 1.9 1.6 1.4 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.2

1.8 2.1 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.5 2.4 2.2 1.9 1.5 1.2 0.9 1.0 1.2 1.6 2.1 2.5 2.7 2.7 2.6 2.4 2.1 1.8 1.5 1.3 1.2 1.2 1.3 1.5 1.7

1.4 1.6 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.2 1.8 1.4 1.0 0.8 0.8 1.1 1.5 2.0 2.3 2.5 2.6 2.5 2.3 2.1 1.8 1.5 1.3 1.2 1.1 1.2 1.3

1.1 1.3 1.5 1.8 2.0 2.2 2.4 2.5 2.4 2.2 1.9 1.4 1.0 0.8 0.8 1.1 1.5 1.9 2.3 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.4 2.1 1.9 1.6 1.3 1.2 1.1 1.1

1.1 1.2 1.3 1.5 1.7 2.0 2.3 2.5 2.6 2.6 2.4 2.0 1.5 1.1 0.9 0.9 1.2 1.5 1.9 2.3 2.5 2.6 2.6 2.5 2.3 2.0 1.7 1.5 1.3 1.2

1.4 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.6 1.8 2.2 2.5 2.7 2.9 2.8 2.6 2.2 1.7 1.3 1.0 1.1 1.3 1.6 2.0 2.3 2.6 2.7 2.7 2.6 2.5 2.2 1.9 1.7 1.5

1.8 1.7 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.7 2.0 2.3 2.7 3.0 3.1 3.1 2.8 2.4 1.9 1.5 1.3 1.3 1.5 1.8 2.1 2.5 2.7 2.9 2.9 2.9 2.7 2.5 2.2 1.9

2.4 2.1 1.9 1.8 1.7 1.8 1.9 2.2 2.5 2.9 3.2 3.4 3.3 3.0 2.6 2.1 1.7 1.5 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.3 2.6 2.8 3.0 3.1 3.1 2.9 2.7 2.5

2.9 2.6 2.4 2.2 2.0 1.9 1.9 2.0 2.3 2.6 3.0 3.4 3.5 3.5 3.2 2.7 2.3 1.9 1.7 1.7 1.8 2.0 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.1 3.2 3.2 3.1 2.9

3.2 3.0 2.8 2.5 2.3 2.1 1.9 1.9 2.0 2.3 2.7 3.1 3.4 3.6 3.5 3.2 2.8 2.4 2.0 1.8 1.8 1.8 2.0 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.2

Heights of water predicted in meters above the lowest low water

38 38

Heights of Water in Meters

0

Source: Hydrographic Department, Royal Thai Navy


Your guide to the underwater world in Krabi WINNER!

Weirdest Items Photo Competition

A

nyone who has strapped on a BCD and taken the plunge beneath the waves will have, unfortunately, come across plenty of objects during the course of their dives that really shouldn’t be there. It really doesn’t matter where in the world you dive, there will always be some degree of trash in the sea that can affect your dive. Some places are worse than others, which is why Project Aware, in conjunction with PADI had the great idea of creating a photo contest as part of their “Debris Month of Action” campaign. This campaign urges all divers and operators to collect garbage during their dives over the course of the month, before weighing it and sending the data to Projects Aware. With all these divers looking for rubbish under the waves, it’s of no real surprise then that some weird and wonderful items are uncovered during the searches. This is what the photo competition was all about - the oddest items divers had come across. And what a response they got! The odd eyebrow may be raised at the mention of a teddy bear or barbie doll, but to come across a full jet ski and a running machine at the bottom of the ocean is just plain wrong... The 8 finalists were judged by a panel and the winner emerged as Skevi, with his underwater gym! First prize was an Aqua Lung Alu Trio Dive torch valued at $350 and the 2 runners up received a Project AWARE & PADI prize pack including a backpack, t-shirt and maskstrap. Congrats to the 3 winners and you too can do your bit for the marine environment by picking up just a fee pieces of garbage during your next dive. The dive operators and the ocean will thank you for it! www.projectaware.org

3939


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secret

I

found myself here as I was getting the Krabi-Magazinemobile repaired at a man we know across the road, and as it was 12 noon, the workers had decided to down tools for “Kin Khao”, or “lunch” to the rest of us. As I was basically stranded halfway up one of the busiest highways in the area under a blazing hot sun at lunchtime, it was like a mirage when my eyes settled upon the sign that shouted “Blaze Café” just across the road. I made a suicidal sprint across the junction to investigate, and sure enough, the image didn’t vanish before my sweaty eyes. I found the door behind a thick brush of greenery and stepped into a air-con dream.

CORNER

This month I thought I’d start a piece all about those little hidden-away areas that you come across now and again when wandering aimlessly around an unfamiliar place. This happened to be at the very end of the Maharat Road in Krabi, where it meets the Phetchakasem Road - that big dual carriageway that leads to the Big C, Tesco Lotus and the airport.

Soon enough, my food arrived and I have to say it was a great cup of coffee - the real deal and not the Nescafé instant stuff you sometimes get at “coffee shops” here. The sandwich was tasty and they had a few other items on the menu I had the choice of - an American breakfast being one and home-made waffles another. I also spied some croissants on the counter, but I was happy with my lunch choice. I whiled away almost 2 hours sitting in my little swinging chair, sipping my coffee and catching up with the ways of the world in the Bangkok Post, and was actually feeling very relaxed. I saw that they even

offered free WiFi, so I could have been catching up on some work if I had my laptop with me - noted for the future! Before long, I paid my bill and was spat back out into the heady traffic of anther hot afternoon in Krabi. I’ll admit that it’s really not in a “walk past” kind of location, but if you ever find yourself at the end of Maharat Road and in need of a little respite, the Blaze Café is not a mirage - try it for yourself and see...

It was a tiny little coffee shop, with a couple of brightly colored leather sofas, 2 tables and another 2 smiling Thai guys behind the counter who asked me, in perfect English, how they could help. Looking at the coffee menu behind their heads, I decided on a straight black Americano and a cheese and ham sandwich and went to take a seat outside to wait. All around the little store grows plants and shrubs, flowers and trees that works great at masking the traffic that flows past just a few meters away. There are tables and chairs all around the glass walled café interior, and I chose a wooden swinging chair right at the back, picking up a magazine from a pile on my way to pass the time.

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BUNGALOWS AND RESTAURANT BAR - GAMES ROOM - DIVING EUROPEAN MANAGEMENT 90mt from Noppharat Thara Beach

Noppharat Thara

tel 075-637791 - fax 075-695117 sabairesort@hotmail.com - www.sabairesort.com

RISTORANTE-TRATTORIA ITALIAN AND THAI FOOD

open 7AM - 5PM


Everyone likes to read a good book on holiday, so we take a look at 3 popular new releases this month that are perfect for whiling away your lazy days here in Krabi.

All area available through Asiabooks stores in Krabi town.

Every Time We Say Goodbye

Only 13: The True Story of Lon

Published by Simon & Schuster UK Ltd.

Published by Bamboo Sinfonia

ISBN: 9781847399625

ISBN: 9789748418018

315THB

395 THB

Marianne has worked hard to get where she is today. Brought up in care, she’s always been determined to make sure her children have what she so badly craved: a secure and loving home.

Only 13 is my life story. At 13, I ran away from an impoverished, rural Thai village, only to become involved in the sex-tourist industry meeting American and European men. Child prostitution was the only way that I could find to send money to my impoverished family.

By Colette Caddle

But then comes the news that will change everything: her husband, Dominic, has been found dead. But as Marianne listens, she realises that not everything adds up: Dom had said he was at work, and yet he died at a restaurant. And what’s more, his mobile phone has disappeared. As she, and the police, delve deeper into the circumstances surrounding Dominic’s death, they discover a web of lies which conceal a shady double life. And those lies now threaten to tear apart everything that Marianne has worked so hard for. Now, as Marianne stares down at her husband’s coffin, little does she realise that the worst is yet to come..

By Manzanarez & Kent

My entrance into this world was selling my virginity, for which I earned $1,200. I did this to make up for my father s death for which I was blamed, which occurred while he was searching for me. I also needed to pay for my sisters schooling so that they would never have to see sex-tourists as I did. I spent five years in the sex-tourist industry in Thailand before marrying to go to Switzerland. That trip lasted only 12 days. Upon returning to Thailand, I met up with a former customer who took me to Germany where I worked in a massage parlor. You will learn what it is like to be born a poor girl in rural Thailand. You will think my thoughts, feel my fears, understand my views, suffer my pain, and share my victory of leaving the industry. You will learn what it is like to be me.

Holiday

Reads Once Upon a Time By Ian Bell

Transworld Publishers ISBN: 9781780575735 855THB Half a century ago a youth appeared from the American hinterland and began a cultural revolution. The world is still coming to terms with what he did. How he did it and why - has never been fully explored. In Once Upon a Time, award-winning writer Ian Bell draws together the tangled strands of the many lives of Bob Dylan in all their contradictory brilliance. For the first time, the laureate of modern America is set in his entire context: musical, historical, literary, political and personal. Full of new insights into the legendary singer, his songs, his life and his era, the artist who invented himself in order to reinvent America is uncovered. Once Upon a Time is a biographical study of a personality that has splintered and reformed, time after time, in a country forever struggling to understand itself. Dylan has become the puzzle that illuminates. Here, in the first part of a major two-volume work, the puzzle is explained.

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Dragonfly Silver

S N

ever ones to be shy of trying something new, it was with pleasure that we accepted the invitation that came one rainy morning to come and try our collective hands at a spot of silvermaking. “Interesting”, we thought as we sat in our penthouse suite at KM towers. So we pulled rank on our regular reporters, piled into the limo and glided off in the direction of Sai Thai

ai Thai is a small location just outside of Ao Nang, on the road to Krabi. On the left as you pass the blue petrol station, you will find a sign that proclaims a silver dragonfly is just around the corner. As we crept along the dusty path, it was as if we had stepped back in time and left Ao Nang altogether. We found ourselves in a clearing completely surrounded by those iconic limestone karsts Krabi is so famous for. We mouthed a collective “wow” at the scene around us and soon found the turnoff for the workshop. Dragonfly silvermaking is the brainchild of a Welsh lady called Sian and her Thai husband, Lee. Sian arrived in Thailand 9 years ago and, as is the story with the rest of us, became entranced with the place and decided to stay. With a background in art, she decided to train in silvermaking and open their workshop to tech others how to craft silver jewelry in the 2 rai of lush tropical greenery that knocks any garden we’ve seen lately into a cocked hat. They now cater for up to 5 students at one time, meaning that their class sizes are kept intimate and the teacher-to-student ratio very impressive indeed. This day, we had them all to themselves and we were greeted warmly by Sian and Lee as we were guided to her workshop. Lee is the silversmith and is positively vibrating with passion about his art. You get the impression that there isn’t a single thing he couldn’t make from a piece of silver and a blowtorch if he set his mind to it.

C

lasses usually run from 10:30am 4pm but as we were a little pushed for time, we opted to make a couple of simple rings, which should take no more than 3 hours. We were shown plenty of amazing designs, shapes, colours and stamps that we could incorporate into our rings, which was a lot more that we were expecting. Here I was, thinking that I’d be all creative and interesting as I expertly went about crafting my masterpiece amidst a shower of sparks in slow motion montage sequence. No. I instead opted to hammer dents into a piece of silver and nothing more. I know my place.

44

My partner Pamela, however, decided on stamps, ridges and an open-backed style that left me impressed and a little emasculated. We sat down at our workbenches and awaited further instruction. Now for those manly men of you out there that might be thinking that making rings is one of the most “girly” things you could ever be forced into doing, I have 2 words for you - “blowtorch” and “hammers”.

I

n order to make the silver nice and flat, we needed to blast it with a blowtorch until it glowed red hot, dip it sizzling into a pot of water and hammer it flat. I felt like a diminutive blacksmith, and images of John Wayne in “Hondo” sprang to mind. I was happy. After some practice in sawing and filing, we started to make our marks for real on the silver that was to be around our fingers in the next couple of hours. Pamela opted for a delicate pattern and I, the dents. We were taught how to solder without setting fire to ourselves, with proper technique and “correct flux usage”. Sanding, bending, hammering and sizing all ensued over the next couple of hours until we were left with a dull and dented piece of metal that, to be honest, didn’t look all that impressive. Being in Thailand and 1pm, everything stops for rice. “Kin Khao” time had arrived and we were delighted to be escorted to a lovely bamboo gazebo in the shade where 2 plates of Thai food were waiting for us, as well as a selection of fruit and cool drinks. This is all part of the package you pay for and a very nice touch. The setting is beautiful and we whiled away almost an hour in the silence that enveloped us. After our refuelling, we went back to the workshop to finish our pieces. The final touch was to polish them up which - we had been assured throughout the morning and despite our unconvinced faces - would completely transform our new items. The polishing process uses an electric bench grinder with brushes that spin very quickly and buff the metal. It uses 3 different brushes, with the final softest one proving to be the one that raised the


most “Aaaaahhhhhhs� from us as our dull pieces of metal instantly transformed into glittering treasures before our very eyes. All buffed up and shiny, we slipped on our new jewellery and gazed at them like wideeyed magpies. It really was impressive that we could create these from nothing in just a couple of hours - especially me with my 10

thumbs. That alone is the best compliment Lee and Sian could get, in my opinion. The rain had started to chuck it down, as it tends to do at this time of the year, but we were warm and dry in the workshop. It occurred to me that this is a perfect activity to do on a rainy day, and if you have kids with you it makes for an excellent boredom-

free day. We said our farewells to Sian and Lee and bolted for the car. Our new pieces now firmly upon our fingers and a satisfying sense of self-achievement in our bellies, we were very happy to have seen that little sign of a silver dragonfly at the side of the road.

For bookings, call 0865931530 (Eng) or 0808852663 (Thai) Email: sianeileenjones@hotmail.com

45


+66 (0) 75 638 098, +66 (0) 819-797-89-5

info@wedding-in-thailand.com

info@krabi-spesialisten.com

Island Hopping

Hong Island by Luxury Thai Longtail Boat

“Hong” in Thai means “room” and the literal translation of the Island’s Thai name is “the island with the room”, due to the gorgeous lagoon located at it’s centre. During this relaxing day-long excursion, as well as exploring Hong Island’s exotic beaches and it’s lagoon, you will also get to visit the surrounding sister islands of Bak Bia & Paradise Island. You will have lots of time to snorkel, swim and enjoy the sights and sounds of life on these incredible beaches! The journey to the islands takes about an hour aboard our special longtail boat which has been specifically designed & built by Krabi-Spesialisten with your comfort in mind. Itinerary 09:00 – 09:15 09:15 – 09:30 09:30 10:30 11:30 13:00 15:00 16:00

Pick-up Klong Muang / Tub Kaek Hotels (on request at Sheraton beach) Pick-up Ao Nang Hotels Departure from Hat Nopparathara Pier Arrival at Paradise for relax, snorkeling & swimming the beach. Leave Paradise island and cruise towards Bak Bia, where you can swim and relax while we set up a private, beautiful and delicious lunch. Departure Bak Bia to Hong Island and visit lagoon on the way Departure Hong island back to Ao Nang Arrive at Ao Nang beach and return to hotel

* Program can be changed according to the water level and weather conditions

Krabi Spesialisten Co., Ltd.

126 Moo3, Ao Nang, Muang, Krabi 81000, Thailand Tel: +66 (0)75 638 098, Fax: +66 (0)7563 8089 Mobile: +66 (0)80 691 5119 www.krabi-spesialisten.com, info@krabi-spesialisten.com


Now this “Individual Business could be a small clothing shop, a hair salon, a minimart etc. The point is you are obtaining a work permit through a legally registered business. The work permit will come with some strict parameters of exactly what work you can do and of course there are fees involved and taxes to pay.

T

his month, we look at the married ex-pat who wants to live quietly in Thailand with his or her Thai spouse and not have the hassle of establishing and owning a new business just to secure a work permit. If the Thai spouse already owns a small business that is registered as an “Individual Business”, then you may apply for a work permit through them providing they employ at least two Thai staff. The proof of employment for the Thai staff is in the form of receipts from compulsory social insurance payments.

The beauty of this “Individual Business” is that there is no balance sheet to be paid every financial year and you don’t need the services of a registered accountant to do the books every month. The Thai owner is permitted to do the accounts personally. Also, you only need to employ 2 Thai staff not four as with a limited company. Strictly speaking, a Westerner on a work permit issued in this way is not supposed to perform labour, such as serving or cleaning or driving. It can only be in a managerial role. There are numerous reasons why you should consider getting yourself a work permit even if you don’t really plan on doing much or any work during your stay here in the Kingdom.

Who are

Krabi Visa?

The Thai establishment looks much kinder upon you when you hold the official blue book. You can apply for a Thai driver’s license, extend your visa indefinitely, claim social health insurance and so on. The process of changing your work permit to a new employer is also simplified somewhat. Remember - getting caught working illegally in Thailand can land you and the company employing you in serious trouble. Hefty fines and deportation are all possibilities, so think twice before accepting an offer of employment without a work permit... Contact me at www.krabivisa.com for more information on obtaining a work permit in Thailand. Next month we’ll be looking at how to change your tourist visa into a non-immigrant visa without leaving the country - a new law that has just been passed.

Remember - working without a work permit can get you in serious trouble! Interested in knowing more? Get in touch with Krabi Visa.

47


opening night We here at KM towers are always on the look out for a good night out. We truly love the amazing places to eat and drink in our little corner of the world, but sometimes it can be a challenge to get something a little different and offthe-wall here. Well, not any more.

T

here were several raised eyebrows in the office when we heard that a new Egyptian restaurant would be opening up right on our doorstep here in Ao Nang. Egyptian? Anyone had Egyptian food? We looked around in a befuddled huddle and shoulders were shrugged. So when we were invited to the grand official opening night, we got our glad rags on and off we set. Appropriately named “Cleopatra Restaurant & Shisha”, it’s apparent that this is not your typical Ao Nang Eatery. The owner and manager of the place is Sami, a native of Tunisia who has a love of his home country’s food that he just had to share. After several trips to Krabi, he decided that this was the place to be, and the restaurant was born. We arrived early and were warmly greeted by Sami himself as she took us on a tour of his premises. A great guy who is instantly likeable, if you know the sort I mean. It is immediately evident that he is passionate about what he does and the flurry of activity that surrounded us was the proof that he runs a tight ship. Helping him run the show was his second-in-command, a renowned chef in his home country of Syria, who was directing the waiters to display the seemingly endless train of silver platters to his exact specifications. It was amazing to watch this process and the food that was coming out of the spotless kitchen was just stunning. As well as an array of Thai food, there were plates of home-made hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh and creamed potatoes, as well as steaming plates of lamb byriani, a traditional pasta salad and more. All of

this was to be complimented by baskets of freshly baked flatbread that was, quite frankly, to die for. We were stunned. We knew that there was to be some food available, but not to this standard and so much of it! But we had to wait, as there was more to come... We were shown to our seats which were soft swively ones and were shown the shisha menu. Now I have to admit that I am a shisha virgin. As I peered slyly from the corner of my eye at my colleagues, it was apparent that we were all in the same boat. So we called upon Sami to guide us through the process, which he did with pleasure.

W

e opted for a light one with a touch of strawberry, but there were plenty of others available, including apple, watermelon and even bubblegum. For something extra-special, they also offer a “real fruit” shisha that has a whole apple or pineapple on top, which the smoke passes trough for a real fruity hit. It was actually very pleasant and not at all like smoking a cigarette, for example. We had a great laugh passing it around and pretending we were all much better at it than we actually were. After a few languid puffs, we were given a demonstration on how they make their flatbreads under the skilled hands of his staff that have obviously been doing it for a long time. They use a large outdoors oven that bakes the bread in minutes to produce a hot, fluffy and deliciously authentic flatbreads that had our mouths watering in

anticipation. The time had come and all the food was ready on the table. The presentation was just amazing and the care put into the dishes was truly of a 5-star standard. We started to work our way through the many dishes, taking a little of everything that still ended up with us staggering back to our table with overflowing plates. What we were to busy to notice was that, all this time, a BBQ chef had been grilling his little heart out and now we were presented with lots of mini kebabs, that were the meaty icing on the cake.

B

y now, the scent of the food had passers-by stopping to see what the fuss was all about. The hastily written sign that proclaimed “Free Food Inside” seemed to clinch things, and before long the place was filling up. In a far corner, I had been observing a well-built man that had, to my eyes, been having some difficulty in getting dressed, as he’d been at it for about 30 minutes. The more clothes he put on, the more colourful he became and it was apparent we were in for some sort of cultural show. Sure enough, music soon started and Mr. Well-built-man came out to join us on the verandah with his tiny son dressed the same as he, in traditional garb. He began to spin. And spin. He span some more and, as he did, the heavy “skirt” her was wearing started to rise up, Marilyn Monroe-style. Underneath were more skirts, sorry ladies. What was going on?? He span faster and faster until his skirt was above his head, and we were soon clapping along to the rhythm of the music

Wasn’t expecting that, to be honest

48


that had us clapping, whistling and yelling for more when it was over all too soon. What a show!

B

y now, half of Ao Nang had gathered in a throng on the street outside the place, and many more came piling in to see what all the fun was about. The BBQ was on full blast, the shisha pipes were out and the food was being devoured with laughter and vigorous handshakes all round to Sami and his staff.

The famous Syrian chef with his creations...

as he span, danced and began flinging his garments in the air, waving them around like a mad thing. Its very difficult to describe this, as I’m finding out now. Sounds like a very weird thing, but it’s actually very, very entertaining. What was even more entertaining was when he went out onto the street and into the middle of the road to stop traffic with his spinning dance. He spun and flipped, folded and flung his elaborate tunic layers in a trancelike state

It was an absolute hit, and executed to perfection. There was nothing bad to say about the few hours we were there, and as we left at 9pm, the place was only getting warmed up. The food at Cleopatra is first rate, prepared to perfection. The quantities are generous and filling for even the hungriest of diners, and the atmosphere is laid back, friendly and very professional. Large leather sofas overlooking the street are a nice touch and I can imaging nothing finer than to sit my tired behind in one, crack a cold one, nibble my flatbread, puff my shisha and watch the world go by. I suggest you try the same.

What’s on the menu? • 6 types of bread, freshly made on the premises • Arabic curry • Tabbouleh • Hummus • Baba Ghanoush • Falafel • Spaghetti & pasta • Several rice-based dishes, including byriani • Shawama meat • Arabic coffee Take-away and delivery Free WiFi Shisha Apple, Grape, Gum, Mint, Watermelon, Strawberry & Mixed Fruit Real fruit includes apple and pineapple

49


Yoga Studio Aonang & Krabi town

RECOMENDED ON

TM

GREAT MUSIC, LIVE LIVESPORTS SPORTS GREATFOOD, FOOD, LIVE LIVE MUSIC, GREAT FOOD, LIVE MUSIC, LIVE SPORTS

WWW.IRISHPUBAONANG.COM

www.facebook.com/roveraonang WWW.FACEBOOK .COM/ROVERAONANG www.facebook.com/roveraonang

www.irishpubaonang.com

Tel: 084 630 4234 www.theartofyogakrabi.com


Sabai Residence

NOPPHARAT THARA PIER, BOATS TO KOH LANTA, KOH PHI PHI, PHUKET

HOLD ME CLOSE Tsunami Memorial Sculpture

NATIONAL PARK

ST.AGNES CHURCH

Mandawee

I8

SO

The Airport The Cave KR Bar

CENTER POINT

Carnivore Steakhouse

Thai Village Resort

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

Luna Bar

Wangsai Seafood

Ao Nang Mosque

AO NANG VILLAGE

Fullmoon House

Boat tickets

Thailandia 2

Bamboo Restaurants

n rma she e’ t Fi Ca f Las t e s h T La The Boat tickets

Ao Nang Villa

The Verandah Resort

Krabi Heritage Resort Peace Laguna Resort

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

BEACH ROAD BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

The Longtail Boat AO NANG SEAFOOD PARADE

Krabi Resort

Bernies

Subway

Centara Resort

Ao Nang Paradise Resort Chandee Buffet

ce

U&P Ba

TO KRABI TOWN

Ao Nang Villa

KRABI AQUARIUM

TO SHELL FOSSIL

SATURDAY MARKET

AO NAMMAO

AO NAMMAO VILLAGE

Hot Yoga

MONDAY-TUESDAY FRIDAY MARKET

Residen inavian

Jungle Village

AO NANG SCHOOL

TO KRABI TOWN

BOATS TO PHRANANG PIER KRABI & RAILAY BEACH

Scand

Devil Spa Red kon ants saba nsult o Boos C i Krab

TON Company

Just Deli

Smiling Dog Cafe’

Somkiet Buri Resort Taj Palace SOI RCA

Mac Donalds

Spaghetti House Vogue Pranang

ds

Poppy Thai Dutch

Entertainment

The Massaman

Aquavision Diving

Cleopatra Restaurant

Fr ien

Boat Noodle SOI CENTARA

The Earth Cafe

Starbucks

&

NEW MARKET

Krabi Apartments

Ale x

Ao Nang Whisky

Lai Thai Apartments

Pams Pub

Titti House

Art of Yoga

t sor Re ant SK Optik r ng Na stau Oceanmart o e on A R y n CENTER POINT Ba Luna Can Beach La lack Irish Rover B Terrace

Lae Lay Grill AONANG Krabi Spesialisten Restaurant VIEWPOINT t TOURIST Lazy Pub ale La Playa Resort h C POLICE s is NIGHT FOOD STALLS Sw

AO NANG BOXING STADIUM

Tolmaj Apartments Sawasdee Restaurant Centara Ao Nang Bay Mercure

Palm Paradise Emerald Gardens ChaWan Resort Pavilion Queen's Bay Baan Bandaley

SATURDAY MARKET

Klong Haeng Mosque

KLONG HAENG VILLAGE

Bergers

Cobra Show

PhuPimaan Resort

CTOP Nice Nature Homes Nice Day Resort

SupsaengDao Resort

THURSDAY MARKET

Kitdee Media & Krabi Magazine

Boat Restaurant

POST OFFICE

Aning Restaurant Ao Nang Beach Resort

TO KRABI TOWN

The L Resort Brazil Grill

ts

Ao Nang Gardens

Sabai Resort

Ayudhya Suites

Tattoo de Cafe’ Burger King

Nadivan Apartm a en

Ben Beach Bar

Azzurra Restaurant Jeanette's Restaurant Kings Tailor Eden Restaurant

TO KLONG MUANG

Hippy Bar

Absolute Tailor Nok Minimart


52


Koh Lanta highlights Koh Lanta is situated at the southernmost tip of the Krabi province.

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t consists of two islands, Koh Lanta Noi and Koh Lanta Yai. Koh Lanta Noi is the smaller of the two and does not have tourist facilities. Visitors travelling by road from the mainland pass through the smaller island on the way to Koh Lanta Yai - the center of the tourist operations. Ban Sala Dan village on the north side of the island is Lanta Yai’s commercial center and the pier where visitors arrive on the island. It is a row of shops, seafood restaurants on stilts, dive shops, tour operators, banks and guest houses that cater for newcomers on the island. The bulk of the Lanta beaches lie along the west coast of the island and can all be reached by road: Khao Kwang, Khlong Dao and Phra Ae all have long stretches of white sand facing the Andaman sea, while Khlong Khong, Khlong Nin and Ba Kan Tiang and other smaller bays are all nice to relax and swim.

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he east coast of Koh Lanta Yai is flat and has many local villages scattered along its coastline. Koh Lanta has a very diverse cultural mix of people who have lived on the island in harmony for hundreds of years: ThaiMuslim, Thai-Chinese and the original sea gypsies still inhabit the place in harmony. The biggest town on the island

is Lanta Old town. Boat trips to Koh Lanta are available during the monsoon-free period from October to April. May to November sees the closure of some of the island businesses and of the boat passenger services due to rough seas. A minibus service is the alternative way to reach the island via land. Lanta Old Town It was once called Ban Si Raya and was the commercial port for Chinese and Arabic trading boats that sailed between the ports of Phuket, Penang and Singapore. Today it is a village with a few rows of stilted shop houses home to an ancient community that was established on the island long ago. It is a picturesque place with Chinese timer shop-houses dating back 100 years, from the old days of sea trading. Near the shacks along the coast, local fishermen dock their longtail boats giving the whole scene a very Thai look. Ba Kantiang Beach Spectacular crystal–clear seawater and soft white sand, romantic sunsets in utmost privacy. This is why Ba Kantiang has come to symbolize a hideaway in Lanta for relaxing in natural surroundings. Lighthouse on Lanta Located in Tanod Cape on the southernmost tip of the island, the lighthouse tower of Lanta is the perfect symbol of solitude. It is the place where immaculate nature still survives as it is rarely reached by tourists due to the rugged road conditions.

Koh Lanta National Park The park covers a marine area dotted with several small sandy islands surrounded by coral reefs. The headquarters is located on the island’s southern extremity. Ban San-ka-u A sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional Chao Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fastdeveloping island. Eco-tours These are run all year round from the east coast of Lanta Yai, not affected by the low season rough seas. Make your way to Thung Yee Pheng village for a trip with a local community, or book a tour with friendly and experienced local companies. Nature Because of its bio-diversity and richness of natural resources, Lanta is a good place for trekking. Explore limestone cave chambers and passageways in the Lanta caves, or walk upstream to the spring water waterfall where you can swim in cool rock pools. Fire Dancing This is definitely one interesting part of the Lanta beach culture. A fire dancing show is usually performed by young boys performing twisting acrobatics swinging burning torches and ropes lit on fire around their muscular bodies. A distinguishing show that sparkles in the dark.

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What to do? Scuba Diving & Snorkelling

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ou do realise that you are in one of the best locations in Thailand and beyond for diving, don’t you? Yes? If you did - good for you! If you already have your certification or never tried it in your life - you’re in luck. There are no fewer than 19 dive operators on Koh Lanta and most of them - if not all - will be qualified to take first-timers out for a fully supervised scuba dive. Trust me, as a diver myself - you won’t regret it! Dive sites nearby include the worldfamous Phi Phi islands as well as the Koh Haa archipelago - all of which are within easy reach. The price you pay will generally include all equipment rental, lunch, fruits and drinking water and as a bonus, the dive sites and boats will be much quieter at this time of the year. A lot of the dive operators speak a variety of European languages, so there’s a good chance you can get an instructor that quite literally - speaks your language. Check out our diving section “Into the Blue” for more information. If you’re dead set on staying well and truly within reach of the water’s surface, then no problems at all. Snorkelling is the way forward and many of the dive boats also welcome snorkellers on board as well as divers. This is great for families

with children, where some members want to dive and others snorkel. Usually the operators will provide the masks, snorkels and fins, as well as a dedicated staff member to guide the snorkellers in the water.

Thai Cookery Thai food in the west is generally quite expensive, creamy and “toned down” in comparison to what you find in this country. Here, in contrast, it’s very cheap, plentiful and packs much more of a punch. Learning to cook authentic Thai food in Thailand is about as good as it gets, and many of the kitchens are open-air or even

on the beach front - just to add to the experience. Classes are a great way to spend a morning or afternoon if the weather is a little wet for other outdoor activities, and you get to eat everything you make too - so you don’t have to worry about what’s for lunch!

Rent a Moped and Explore Mopeds are everywhere in Thailand, and Lanta is no exception. They’re cheap, easy to operate and are hard wearing - judging by the state of some I’ve come across that are held together with string and a prayer… In Saladan you can hire them absolutely everywhere. You might have to leave your passport with the rental agency, but don’t worry - this is standard practice. Everyone does it. It’s an insurance for them that you’ll bring the bike back, is all. As tempting as it might be (and it is!) to roar off into the sunset, laughing madly with the wind in your hair - don’t. Those that do often round a bend, collide with a passing goat and end up in a sobbing mess

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in the local clinic. Wear a helmet. That’s all. Simple, yet effective at prolonging your holiday to the last day Bike fuelled and helmets on, the roads are yours to explore. Head south out of Saladan and you will discover another side of Lanta that is very different to the bars and restaurants of the north. Isolated beaches, rockier roads and local residents are all here, and the feeling you are stepping back in time is overwhelming. You will come across a junction after a while, with a right turn towards Klong Nin. This is filled with smaller beach-bungalowtype places to stay and similar bars & restaurants to match. Expect to find locals lounging in hammocks strumming guitars and sipping cold beers. This is a good indication of how they do things here… If you don’t take that right turn, the road will turn into a winding, twisting hilly serpent that leads you to the east of the island, where the “sea gypsy” people have lived for 500 years. This is a very interesting part of the island, but visitors here should respect the privacy of these “Chao Ley” people and remember they are not a tourist attraction. That aside, they are a warm and welcoming people and are fascinating to experience. Remember to take a map with you just in case, and keep your eyes open for the “gasoline shacks” that dot the roadsides, just in case. Watch the fuel gage and you’ll be fine. Biking around Lanta is the best way to truly explore all it’s nooks and crannies, and you might even come across a few surprises along the way….

Have a Massage If the thought of even standing upright is just to much - congratulations: you have successfully integrated into the Lanta way of life. If you have reached this point in your stay here, then it’s time for a massage. Only in Thailand can you engage in an “activity” while lying perfectly still for a hour. I love this country… If you have never had a Thai massage, you’re in for a treat. Unlike the more traditional notion of a massage, the Thai version does not use soothing strokes as it rubs scented oils into your tired body. Oh no. It uses a


What to do? Koh Lanta “pressure point” method that means lots of hard pressing, twisting, cracking of joints and squealing. That last part is usually from me.

and after a hour of this, you feel like you’ve had a great workout and your body will be rid of any niggling aches and pains - I guarantee it.

But it’s not anywhere as bad as it might sound - otherwise n one would do it. It’s invigorating and totally relaxing all at once,

You can have it as hard or soft as you like - and your masseuse will usually ask you if the pressure she is using is ok for you, and will adjust accordingly. Probably one of the best things about getting a Thai massage in Thailand is it’s availability to everyone on any budget. You can choose to luxuriate in one of the breathtaking spas that Lanta has on her shores, or you can find a small massage hut somewhere. While the surroundings will not be on par with the spa’s, you can still get a great massage for a couple of hundred Baht, which can’t be argued with.

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Koh Lanta’s

Butterflies

By Ekkehard Schwadtke

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ho has not strolled across a meadow in a temperate climate watching the white, yellow and reddish brown butterflies as they fly in an uncontrolled zigzag flight from flower to flower, or observed a rare metallic-blue Purple Emperor gliding elegantly along a forest path? Unfortunately, butterflies have become rare in central Europe; perhaps by spraying of insecticides, perhaps by the loss of suitable habitats. Certainly, butterfly hunters are not the threat as many species of temperate latitudes are protected. After beetles, butterflies are the second largest order of insects. They inhabit nearly all climates on earth from tropical rain forests to dry deserts, and from the arctic tundra to high mountain meadows, with an altitude of 6000 meters. Their sizes vary from a few millimetres to a wing span of 27 cm and a wing area exceeding that of a pigeon. Whether large or small, some are well-known for their yearly migrations, during which they fly several hundred kilometres, cross the Alps, or even oceans, with the help of the wind. The classification of butterflies is quite complicated and disputed even among specialists. A distinction is often made between the true butterflies and the moths, whereby the true butterflies count for only about 10% of all butterfly species. The life of the butterfly is quite short. While the males of some micro-moth species die already after a few hours, some of the large Saturnidae live approximately 5 days. The butterflies of this family do not have organs for food intake and digesting and live on the fat reserves, they put on during the larva stage. Most species, however, live for several weeks and some of those that hibernate even a few months. They nourish predominantly on nectar that they suck with a 2-5 cm long proboscis, which consists of a double pipe, from flowers with a long calyx, for which they secure the pollination in return. As many other insects, the butterflies pass through various stages during their life cycle and have a totally different appearances during

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each stage. Their so-called complete metamorphosis consists of egg, caterpillar, pupa (chrysalis), and adult butterfly.

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fter mating, the females fix the usually hard-shelled eggs to leaves or branches of the food plant, either individually or in heaps. The number of eggs varies from several dozens to many thousands, depending on the species, and can even differ within one species, depending on the season. Most caterpillars appear after a few days. In temperate


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hile the chrysalis of most true butterflies is anchored to a branch, a trunk, or the underside of a leaf by a silken pad spun by the caterpillar, the pupae of moths are carefully hidden. Some caterpillars dig themselves into loose soil, crawl under a stone, or spin roomy cocoons with threads from a gland, located at the spinnerets behind the mandibles of the caterpillar. The best known cocoons are those of the domesticated silk moth, where the single continuous silk thread can be unravelled after boiling. It can reach a length of 1000 meter. The pupal stage takes a few days, weeks, or even years depending on the species. During this time, the change from the caterpillar to the butterfly takes place invisible from the outside. Some organs of the butterfly were already in place in the caterpillar, others develop only during pupation. When the pupa stadium ends, the skin bursts at the head and the butterfly lifts itself out, looking for a firm support for its legs. By pumping air and blood into the vein network of the wings these become unfolded in approximately 20 to 30 minutes. However, it takes about 2 hours before they are hardened and the butterfly can fly.

regions, some go through a period of suspended development before this, and first eat the remainder of their own eggshell. Only after that is consumed do they begin to eat at the host plant, for which they are equipped with strong mouth tools, consisting of an upper lip, mandibles, and a lower lip. While some caterpillars feed on very different plants, most are monophag and feed only on one special food plant or plant family.

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he structure of the tubular caterpillar is very simple. It consists of the head with a series of six tiny eyelets on each side, 3 thoracic segments with one true pair of legs each and the eleven abdominal segments with up to 6 pairs of prolegs, which are only fleshy, stubby little structures with own musculature. The skin of the caterpillars grows from chitin, with thin membranous folds between the segments, which permit a certain stretch of the body. This skin does not grow with the animal, and is renewed after 5 to 8 days. Most caterpillars shed their skin four times. When the larva has attained full growth, it moults for the last time and enters pupal stage.

Lanta Butterfly Garden is located on Lanta island in the hills above Lanta Long Beach across from the elephant rides. A visit to the butterfly garden can be easily combined with a trip to Lanta Old Town on the east coast of the island and also fits perfectly into a planned trip around the island. Lush tropical foliage surrounds the visitor in the free-flight aviary. Many species of butterflies are bred in the garden, ensuring that no animals are removed from the wild. Visitors can see the complete life cycle from egg to larva to pupa and finally to the butterfly. At the end of the season, a large part of the breeding is returned to nature. The gift shop offers an interesting choice on articles related to butterflies. It is open from November to April daily from 09:00 to 17:00.

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Eating Guide koh lanta Seven Seas Wine Bar & Restaurant @ Pimalai Resort & Spa 99 Moo 5, Ba Kan Tiang Beach. Head south, turn right at the Klong Nin junction and keep going.

A truly stunning place that demands you stand slack-jawed as you walk into it. Open-plan everywhere - even the kitchen - with some of the best views you can hope to witness whilst enjoying your meal. Their chef is a talent to behold, and the food from the kitchens here is topnotch indeed. The restaurant and its show kitchen offer a comprehensive “a la carte” fusion style dinner menu which means that superior ingredients from all over the globe are marinated, cooked and served together on the same plate - generating a symphony of flavours. The presentation of the food is beautiful and it’s a feast for the eyes even before you pick up your fork. A wide-ranging collection of international wines has been assembled from which you can select an ideal accompaniment to your meal.

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The Boeuf Charolais Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 6:30am - 10:30am & 3pm - 11pm Tel: +66 (0) 75 607 999 Website: www.pimalai.com

Tides Restaurant @ Layana Resort & Spa 272 Moo 3 Saladan, Phra-Ae Beach, Ko Lanta. Head South and look for the sign on the right side.

A formal restaurant perched on the very edge of the beach overlooking the sea and open to the cooling sea breezes. Guests have the choice of a cool interior venue or an al fresco beachside setting on the deck in front of the restaurant. Serving a mouth-watering a la carte selection of international dishes, as well as traditional Thai fare and seafood specialties all made from the freshest of ingredients. The chef, Khun Apichai, grows his own herbs in a beautiful garden right on the premises and the presentation of his food is straight out of a Monet. The menu quality is matched by an extensive wine list to compliment the food perfectly.

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The Healthy Spa Cuisine Menu Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 6:30am - 10:30am & 11:30am - 6pm Tel: + 66 (0) 75 607 100 Website: www.layanaresort.com

Time for Lime - Fusion Restaurant 72/2 Moo 3, Saladan, Koh Lanta 81150. Head South and look for the sign .

This place has been one of the best little places on Koh Lanta since it opened it’s doors 7.5 years ago. Owned by Junie, a Norwegian who loves animals as much as her food, Time For Lime has become a haven for those who want to indulge in both of her passions. Her workshops in Thai cookery are legendary as she has a unique fusion style that differs from the usual Thai lessons you normally find. During her classes, expect to re-create dishes such as the signature Time for Lime soup, scampi wrapped in wild pepper leaves and even the wonderfully titled “sesame seed crusted barracuda balls with ginger on a bed of white radish & wasabi dip”. A great, friendly, laid back atmosphere is only accentuated by the jazz and chillout music that plays around the beachfront kitchen, and the homemade mojitos that come from here have been copied, but never matched.

Average price: 150 - 500 THB What to Try: The 6-dish tasting menu Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 5pm - 10:30pm Except Mondays Tel: +66 (0) 75684590 Website: www.timeforlime.net

Beachcomber Restaurant @ Lanta Castaway Resort 299 Moo 2 Phra Ae, Saladan, Koh Lanta,

If you’re searching for a laid-back, yet stylish beach-front dining experience , then Beachcomber is the place for you. The restaurant features a terrific menu selection and is best known for its authentic TEX-MEX dishes. You’ll also want to try the large selection of savory Thai, Western and Seafood BBQ dishes. The open-air restaurant is situated near the beach and there is also plenty of outdoor seating on the beach-front deck and in the garden. The atmosphere is relaxed, the staff is friendly, and the setting is beautiful with a lovely garden and a terrific view of Long Beach and the Andaman Sea. You’ll also want to enjoy a before and/or after dinner drink at our beach bar which serves up a wide variety of cocktails and delicious frozen drinks.

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Average price: 250-350THB What to Try: The Tex-Mex food Free WiFi?: For bungalow guests only Opening Hours: Open daily from 7am - 9pm. Tel: +66 (0) 75684851 Website: www.lantacastaway.com


DID YOU KNOW....

Our profits are donated to the charity LANTA ANIMAL WELFARE So.. come Learn, Eat & Drink your hearts out! AND FEEL GOOD

Cooking School thai & fusion Restaurant Beach Bar

Fun & Professional evening Cooking Classes on the Beach Front

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Koh Jum Island - Plugged In but still unplugged Story by : Jeffrey Dietrich

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oh Jum Island is still the quintessential destination in Krabi province if you are looking for authentic Thai village life and development that is still a small footprint on this tranquil island. Geography brought electricity to Koh Jum late in 2009 as the island was in the direct path of the new underwater electric cable connecting Koh Phi Phi from the mainland. So now that Koh Jum is plugged in, has it lost its reputable unplugged character that has attracted intrepid travelers over the past couple of decades? We are pleased to report that Koh Jum is as tranquil and laid back as it always has been. In fact, what is noticeable are the lack of noisy generators at most of the resorts. Folks come to Koh Jum to unplug; the island’s nature and culture still dominates the minimal tourist infrastructure. The

existing resorts on Koh Jum all have their own family run character ranging from the back packers paradise Bo Deng run by two laughing souls, Dila and Rosa, all the way up to the stunningly beautiful Koh Jum Beach Villas, an eco villa resort with exquisite villas tucked in an incredible botanical garden. Koh Pu Mountain is the dominant geological feature on the island at over 400 meters. A great hike for the adventurous and a vital refuge of native habitat still harbouring Asian Pied Hornbills and Burmese Pythons. The three villages, Koh Pu, Ting Rai and Koh Jum are situated on the back side of the island amongst the mangroves. Resorts are located facing the open Andaman Sea. This division allows the villages to remain authentic without any significant tourist infrastructure while

the resorts are all located on the beaches. Access to the island is by longtail taxi boats located on the mainland port town of Laem Kruat. There is now a songthaew you can take direct from Krabi Town to Laem Kruat. During the high season most visitors come to Koh Jum using the Krabi – Koh Lanta Ferry that stops at two locations on Koh Jum out at sea where long tail boats come out to meet passengers to take them ashore. The lack of any deep ports on the island keep the ferry boats out at sea and also prevent large masses of tourists from ever overcrowding the island. Getting here is an adventure and this ends up defining the interesting community of resorts and visitors that have made this island their home and the place they return to year after year.


Feed Body and Soul at OonLee Bungalows Getting to Koh Jum can be very simple or a bit of a nightmare - all depending on how much you know about getting there. This is where we come in - we decided to make the journey ourselves and tell you exactly how and when to get there with the least amount of hassle, as well as find terrific place to stay when you get there...

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here are 2 ways you can get to Koh Jum - by passing ferry or longtail boat. There are ferries that leave from Koh Lanta at 8am and Krabi at 11am, which will stop as they get alongside Koh Jum and longtail boats will come and take you the rest of the way. Koh Phi Phi also has ferries leaving at 2pm that operate on the same principle. The second way is to get to a place called Laem Kruat and take a longtail boat for 40 mins to the island, and this is what we decided to do. If you are driving, it takes about 1 hour to get from Ao Nang to Laem Kruat. You just head to Tesco and continue until you see the large overhead signs that tell you to turn right for “Koh Jam”. This road will lead to to the small locality of Laem Kruat, where you will find a large pier. If you don’t have transport of your own, you can catch a blue and yellow “sawngthaew” - the local bus that has benches in the back. It has the words “Krabi, Bus Station, Tesco, Big C, Laem Kruat” written on it, which is easy to spot. This will leave from all of these locations at intervals throughout the day and will take you to the pier. Now, the pier is a bit misleading. We waited at the end of the pier before realising the longail taxis were passing us by and docking at the mainland. We went back and followed our noses along past the shops until we saw a slipway with goods and people being unloaded. It was the second slipway we needed to get to “Moo Too”, the place on Koh Jum we were being collected from. If you know the name of the pier on Jum you need to get to, just ask anyone in this area and they will direct you to the correct boat. We got on and soon we were chugging along through the mangroves with a boat full of happy local Muslim women that looked as if they hadn’t changed a bit since 1925. We arrived at Koh Jum 45 minutes later, paid our 70 Baht fare each and were taken by “Taxi” (a battered old pickup truck) through the winding dirt track until we reached our destination - OonLee Bungalows. Owned and ran by a French lady, Valerie and her thai Hubby, Oon, OonLee Bungalows keeps the feeling of stepping back in time perfectly. They have several wooden bungalows on stilts, as well as a large communal area that serves as dining room, hangout area and bar. They have been at this for 10 years now, and it shows. With a well-stocked bookshelf for reading and swopping, a TV with DVDs and a stereo system with a range of CDs, this place caters for every weather eventuality! What really makes this place stand out though, is the food. They have a deceptively simple menu that has all the usual suspect on it - Penang curry, chicken and basil leaves, Pad Thai, etc., as well as a few intriguing dishes like carpaccio of fish. With anything you order, the difference is immediate as soon as the plate arrives in front of you. The presentation is amazing - the food is crafted to perfection and is a feast for the eyes long before it makes it to your mouth. The Pad Thai looked like a work of art, and there was plenty of it too - no “nouvelle cuisine” portions here. Valerie’s French influences no doubt shining through in the demand for high quality food and Oon himself turns out to be a first-rate chef as well.

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hey are situated on the west coast, but the geography of the island is such that there are a few steps to descend in order to make it to the beach. Not a big deal when you see what awaits you at the bottom, though. A stunning visa over the Phi Phi islands in the distance that demands to be witnessed at sunset, as a huge blood-red penny dips below the horizon painting the sky in an explosion of colours. To take full advantage of this, they have even build some raised wooden platforms over the rocks here so you can sprawl out with an ice-cold beer and watch the day slip away. During the daytime, the real beauty of Koh Jum is that there isn’t really an awful lot to do. If you’re looking for an adrenaline-fuelled getaway, you’re in the wrong place. If you want to snorkel for a bit before lounging in your hammock with a good book - you will do well here. This is exactly what we did, and it was great - just what we wanted out of the place and already we could feel the batteries becoming recharged.

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he bungalows are perfect for what you need them for. Scattered around a shaded tropical garden, they consist of a large double bed with fan and an equally large bathroom, complete with clean towels, shampoo and shower gel - all decorated beautifully in dark wood and stone. We slept like logs and awoke early the next morning to the smell of freshly brewed coffee (no Nescafé in sight!) and sizzling bacon. Yes, the breakfasts are as good as the rest of the meals with options for bacon, sausage, eggs, toast, muesli, freshly pressed fruit juices and that all-important Bon Café coffee. from Krabi daily 11 am from Ao Nang daily 10.30 am 1hr to Koh Jum

to Krabi Town

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Haad Yao Long Beach

If you are looking for a different view of Thailand from the hustle and bustle of places like Ao Nang and Phi Phi, Koh Jum is the place to be. If you want to spend your time well, I suggest you get yourselves to OonLee Bungalows for a trip you won’t easily forget.

Laem Hin

Ban Klong Toh

Koh Siboya

Ban Koh Siboya Laem Kruat Daily Longtail Boats to/from Koh Jum

Koh Hang

Ban Koh Pu Mount Pu

Bonhomie Bungalows

Koh Sima

Koh Talang Ting Rai

Koh Jum Lodge

The Urban Cafe’

Koh Jum Beach Villas Koh Jum Diving Joy Bungalows Freedom Bar

from Koh Lanta daily 8 & 1.30 pm 1hr to Koh Jum

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OonLee Bungalows can collect you at the MooToo pier on Koh Jum and take you to the resort. Call them to arrange everything.

422 mt

Daily Boats to Koh PhiPhi 10am from Koh PhiPhi 4.30pm

Boat drop-off point

We spent only 2 nights with Oon and Valerie and it was way too short. Time here seems to stand still and, unfortunately for us, we had to return to the “real world” of Ao Nang all too soon. As we said our farewells, we were genuinely sad to be leaving their company, and the little slice of paradise they have carved out for themselves on Koh Jum.

Koh Lek

Koh Jum village

Koh Jum

Activities • Kayaking • Fishing • Snorkelling • Scuba diving • Trekking • Massage • Pool table.


Sony

joins the 4K TV league in Asia

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he 84-inch Sony 4K TV, which was unveiled at the recent IFA tradeshow, has finally landed in Asia. The KD-84X9000 is the new crown jewel for the company’s Bravia TV range and stands out with an ultra-high 3840 x 2180-resolution. Compared with its full-HD siblings, the KD-84X9000 has four times more pixels to deliver finer details and 1080p-quality 3D visuals. Another highlight is a fast 100Hz, LED-edgelit panel. There are two ways to enjoy native 4K content on this whopper: 4K photos can be displayed through its USB ports, while 4K videos are accessible directly over HDMI. Users can also watch bright and

flicker-free 3D by donning lightweight 3D glasses. Meanwhile, a proprietary 4K X-Reality Pro image-processing engine provides full backward compatibility for DVDs and Blu-ray Discs, among other existing content. For a holistic movie-viewing experience, Sony has included a pair of speakers with 5 drivers in each array. They are further complemented by a powerful 50W amplifier and digital signal processing to reproduce deep bass and extended treble according to the firm. Other noteworthy extras are smart TV functions, as well as a SimulView function which allows split-screen games to appear in fullscreen through special 3D glasses. Four pairs of these premium 3D glasses will be bundled with the KD-84X9000 in Singapore. The Sony Bravia KD-84X9000 will be available in Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Philippines from earlyJanuary 2013. It will retail for S$35,999 (US$28,924.15) in Singapore. By Philip Wong, CNET Asia

Tiltpod Mobile

Comes to Thailand

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t’s a tiny wonder that no-one came up with this idea before now, but now it’s here. The Tiltpod is, like mosts good ideas, incredibly simple. It’s basically a stand for your iPhone that enables it to be held securely in landscape position, so you have completely hands-free operation of it to watch videos, make FaceTime calls, even take photos of yourself using the front camera. Small enough to fit on your keychain, this device can go with you everywhere - just like your iPhone, and comes with a sticky magnetic base that holds just about anywhere. Selling for $14.95, order now from www.gomite.com

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Hotels VS Villas Vacation Rentals versus Hotels in Thailand – Which is Better? So you plan to visit exotic Thailand on your next vacation and can’t decide whether to stay in a Thai villa or a Thai hotel? Tourist plays a vital role in the Thai economy and because of this have become spoilt for choice with a huge range of holiday accommodation, from budget hotels to luxury resorts and villas. If you are confused about which is best for your vacation, our guide to the pros and cons of Thailand’s holiday accommodation may just help you decide!

Thai Package Holidays, Hotels and Luxury Resorts Many tourists choose to book a Thai package holiday which generally include flights, airport transfers, hotel accommodation and can include meals. Thai holiday packages are extremely convenient if you don’t have time to make your own arrangements or if you decide to book last minute. Everything is arranged so that you only need to show up at the airport. If you have a fixed budget these are a good option as you will know the entire cost of your holiday in advance. If you opt for an ‘all-inclusive’ package that extends to all food, drink and entertainment you can effectively leave your credit card at home! Of course you can also book your Thai hotel independently, which gives you the freedom to explore more than one destination. You could stay in a hotel in Chiang Mai to discover the jungles of northern Thailand for example and move to the southern resorts of Phuket or Krabi to enjoy the beaches and Thai islands. Hotels in Thailand tend to be of a high standard and there is a huge selection from budget hostels to mid-range and top-end luxury hotels. The advantage of a hotel is that it offers more than just a roof over your head. Hotels provide a range of services including regular room cleaning; restaurants, bars, swimming pools, sports

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facilities and some even have a private beach. Hotels often provide on-site entertainment and child care facilities so that the kids can have fun while you relax with total peace of mind. If you want to be pampered you can stay at one of the fabulous resorts that dot the Thai tourists areas. Thai resort hotels offer the ultimate in luxury accommodation with their own private beaches, spa facilities, golf courses, tennis courts, indoor and outdoor pools and beautiful private grounds. If you want complete relaxation a resort in Phuket, Krabi or Koh Samui could be perfect choice as you need never leave the complex during the entire length of your stay ! Many Thai hotels and resorts provide free airport transfers and it is common in some of the more up market hotels to benefit from free shuttles to many of the main tourist centers. A hotel will also offer local trips so that you can take advantage of an excursion without making any of the arrangements. On the downside a resort or hotel can be an expensive choice and drinks and meals that are not included often cost more than in a local bar or restaurant. Another disadvantage is that it is tempting to

remain in your hotel or resort so you miss out on some of the local tourist attractions. Staying in a resort or hotel with other tourists can mean that you never mingle with the friendly Thai locals nor experience genuine Thai life. The hotel food may not be a true reflection of the deliciously fragrant and spicy food that Thailand is so famous for and you could leave Thailand without actually getting to know the country at all!


Thai Vacation Villas Renting a traditional Thai holiday Villa is an alternative and unique way to make your Thai vacation particularly memorable. More and more people are leaving the tried and tested formula of the package holiday behind in search of a more authentic adventure. We recommend that you rent a villa of typical Thai architecture as they are designed specifically with tropical weather in mind. Renting a Thai villa can be significantly more economical, particularly if you are in a large group. You get a lot more space for your money too and private facilities such as your own garden and pool provide seclusion and privacy. Use of a kitchen allows you to cook your own meals which in addition to saving money can also be fun. It gives you the opportunity to shop in local supermarkets and experiment with new and unusual ingredients. You will become familiar with your local neighborhood, get to meet the locals and embrace real life in Thailand. Thai holiday villas usually come equipped with modern conveniences such as air conditioning, satellite TV and wifi and they often include personal facilities such as sports and beach equipment, games, DVDS and books that are left by the owners for your convenience. If you want a luxury Thai villa you should consider renting a ‘Serviced Villa’. These

vacation villas provide all the services of a hotel without sacrificing your privacy, including daily cleaning, massage and beauty treatments, catering and excursion booking. There are some drawbacks to renting a vacation villa – some people feel uncomfortable without having on site staff to solve problems and look after security, however, in a serviced villa there are always staff at hand and security is usually well taken care of. You can be unlucky enough to experience bad state of repair or cleanliness although, if you book with a reputable local company there will always be someone available to resolve such issues. Villas may not be located as close to the beach as some of the hotels and resorts and you can pay a premium for Thai villas with a sea view or beachfront. Ultimately it comes down to personal preference but if you are looking for a real taste of Thai life with your own private retreat, a vacation villa is the perfect choice! Krabi Riviera Co. Ltd. provides exclusive pool villas for luxurious, yet surprisingly affordable holidays in Krabi. All our villas are located in or near to the sought after Krabi holiday resorts of Ao Nang Beach. Krabi Riviera boast a desirable selection of the best villas in Krabi, that come fully equipped with designer kitchens, sumptuous bathrooms and private pools set in secure and secluded grounds.

Krabi Riviera Co. Ltd has built a solid reputation in Krabi for delivering outstanding customer service that combines the best elements of western professionalism and hospitality. Guests are treated to unlimited and complimentary taxi service within Ao Nang from 9 AM to 10 PM, a private concierge and a range of optional extras that include personal catering, in-house massage and beauty treatments and excursion booking.

To find out more about Krabi Riviera properties take a look at: www.KrabiVilla.com We can be contacted at: 084 154 08-08 or 075 695-633 or by email at: info@KrabiVilla.com

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The Houben Villa – an exclusive luxury seaview villa project located in Ba Kantiang, a quiet bay in the south of Koh Lanta, Krabi region.

The Houben Villa, Koh Lanta

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he development sits on a quiet hillside in 5 rai of lush tropical flora. Built by Belgian developer Waldax Co. Ltd (creators of the luxury boutique Houben Hotel, Koh Lanta), the project consists of only 7 exclusive sea view villas: 2 have been sold already, with only 5 remaining.

area. Villas are carefully spaced apart to provide maximum privacy. Features include: Luxury private bathrooms, private swimming pool with Jacuzzi, huge pool terrace and balconies, full set high-end built-in kitchen, fully built entertainment system, fully furnished bedrooms, dining room and living area.

The project is unique to Koh Lanta in 2 ways: Firstly, the view. Unbroken 270-degree panoramic sunset sea views grace every room in every villa. Each of the villas is carefully nestled into the hillside with unbelievable views of the Andaman Sea and spectacular sunsets over the western islands of Koh Phi Phi. The height of the villas gives excellent exposure to natural lighting and sea breeze ventilation.

Even with such an amazing location, Houben Villas are close to local conveniences. Koh Lanta’s famous Ba Kantiang beach is only 500m away - this beach was ranked in the worlds top ten beaches by Tripadvisor. Just 10 minutes drive south takes you into Koh Lanta’s National Park area with breathtaking roadside views and stunning beaches. The Houben Villas are easily reachable in 1 hour from Krabi by speedboat, or a slightly longer journey by road.

Secondly, the construction standards. All villas in the Houben Villa project are designed to extremely high European standards with imported marble and granite, hi-gloss, powder-coated door and window frames, solid teak wooden doors plus tempered glass fences and panels. The addition of huge balconies and unique red infinity-edged swimming pools make these villas truly luxurious and exclusive. The 7 villas have either 2 or 3 bedrooms and have a massive 250-760 sqm of built Fact File Property type: Sea View Villa Location: Ba Kantiang, Koh Lanta Ownership: Leasehold / Freehold Built Size: 250 – 470 sqm Land Size: 400 – 1000sqm

The award winning management team from the Houben Hotel, Koh Lanta (situated only 400m from the villas), provides all maintenance and management. For owners wishing to gain income from their villa, a rental management scheme is provided. Villas are now furnished and ready for rent with bonus offers such as free airport transfer, beach shuttle and massage.

Management: The Houben Hotel Management Team Email: info@thehoubenvillalanta.com Website: www.thehoubenvillalanta.com

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Nong Thale River Residence

Ao Nang Weather station www.aonangweather.com

Custom designed villas & holiday rentals

c i g a Live am magic life!

Experience the difference

Modern minimalistic Villa Ao Nang

Nong Thale River Residence l l l l l l l

www.nongthaleriverresidence.com

300

l

l

l

Quiet and spacious residential area Near Ao Nang beach and entertainment Krabi International Airport 25 kilometer Spacious plots 1100-1600m2 Custom built villas Quality materials Environment aware construction Project management and rental service Good accessibility for seniors Opportunity to experience on site before buying

350 m

4034 Krabi

4024 Klong Muang

Wat Klong Son

info@kamalot-ltd.com

+66 (0) 818940675

Kamalot

Co. Ltd. Land & Development

บริษัท กมล๊อต จำกัด


Deluxe Due Diligence Benefits and Risks of buying property with a unique or distinguishing feature (golf courses, marinas, hotel residences)

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s Krabi prepares for the next big thing, the property rush, buyers should think carefully when offered luxurious properties that contain or are part of a unique geographical or artificial feature. In this case, developers usually take some time preparing their land and concept; however, this may mean that the title is more complicated than usual; or a marina may need to be checked for conceptual and structural integrity by a marine engineer; or the terms of a golf membership and its application to owner/members should be carefully scrutinized in a golf course development. Developments on beaches, near major public roads or in the middle of a jungle or forested area should also be monitored to ensure that the splitting of the original land title plots is based on legal private land and not illegal or public land.

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alking about the title search, the nature of the property may mean that several land plots have been consolidated, sub-divided and re-consolidated to form the land plots that are now for sale. Buyers should be prepared, if they want a comprehensive report, to wait maybe a little longer for the full results of the search. Such developments often include or are near a strip of public land and it is important to verify land boundaries and ensure that the title has been issued properly. Your legal advisor should seek as strong as possible a contractual protection appropriate to the circumstances and according to the motivation for the purchase. In a golf course, the emphasis in the contracts may focus on the rights attached to the owner/golfer: do the membership rights attach exclusively to the property or are they personal to the buyer and transferable? Are the terms of membership frozen for a fixed period of time or subject to change of rates and terms immediately after purchase of the golf course property? Also, he should identify and separate the unique features to a unit from the common features. One unit may be designed to have a swimming pool and one unit may instead have a large landscaped garden. How this is dealt with in respect of common responsibility of the condominium owners and the fees they must bear as a collective, and the fees they might also have to bear as individuals in respect of common area outside of the condominium unit, should be dealt with as precisely as possible in the contracts.

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Developers make the effort to produce a development catering to a particular market demand or industry – golf, sailing, hotel apartment investors and that unique product is the principal reason for the purchase. Therefore, care and attention should be applied by the buyer and its adviser to all the normal elements of the deal but also focus on the peculiar elements. If you want to own a property with a mooring station which has a lengthy service and maintenance guarantee – make sure it is included in the contract and you know which company is backing the guarantee. If you want to pay the same golfing rates for a fixed period of 3 years, similarly – the seller must agree before you incur the costs of a title search and instructing advisers.

THANEE ATTORNEY & COUNSELOR AT LAW

E-mail: info@thaneelaw.com www.thaneelaw.com

INTERNATIONAL LAW OFFICE STANDARDS YOU CAN TRUST

- Legal advisory - Project management - Company formation - Work permits - Visa and immigration - Business contracts and licenses - Wills and testaments

- Tax and accounting - Real estate expertise - Litigation and dispute resolution - Notary public - Marriages and divorces - Insurances - Mortgages


Путеводитель по

краби

ПЛЯЖИ Ао Нанг находится в 20-ти км от города Краби и является одним из самых развитых пляжей Краби, с белым песком и отвесными скалами. Ао Нанг предлагает широкий диапазон услуг для проживания и сервиса. На главной улице есть рестораны, бары, пабы, магазины сувениров, дайвинг-центры, туристические агентства, массаж и СПА центры. Ао Нанг является отправной точкой для путешествий на лодке по морю на близлежащие острова. Пляж Ноппаратара протяженностью 3 км. находится за пляжем Ао Нанг. Этот пляж все еще мало развит и имеет всего лишь несколько ресторанов и баров. Привлекательный, естественный вид пляжа собирает по выходным местную молодежь и их семьи насладиться закатом. Попробуйте местные мусульманские сладости в “макашницах”, которые расположены в конце пляжа. Также, насладитесь морепродуктами в местных ресторанчиках, которые находятся у офиса национального парка Ноппаратара. Во время отлива, пройдитесь по набережной, вместе с миллионами маленьких крабов, по песчаной косе до ближайших островов. Пляжи Рэйлэй разделены от Краби и Ао Нанга большими известняковыми горами. У полуострова Рэйлэй есть 2 стороны, Восточная и Западная, которые просто восхитительны: кристально чистая вода, песчаные пляжи, дикие горы, скалистые острова выступающие из моря. Рэйлэй находится в 15-ти минутах от АоНанга

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и в 30-ти минутах от города Краби, вы сможете добраться до него только на лодке . Насладитесь коктейлем в одном из пляжных баров, посетите пещеру “Прананг” проверьте себя на курсах по скалолазанию, поднимитесь на вершину горы, и спуститесь в лагуну или просто расслабьтесь на пляже. Соседний пляж Тонсай “Tonsai” распалагается в основании скалы и разделяет Рэйлэй на Западную и Восточную часть. Это небольшой, красивый пляж с пологим дном. Пляж Клонг Муанг находится в 20-ти км. от Ао Нанга, и в 40 км от Краби. Это новое место с развивающейся инфраструктурой, в котором вы сможете провести великолепные выходные. Именно здесь вы получите незабываемый отдых, в окружении девственной природы. Пляж Туб Каек (Tubkaek) - это еще один чистый, спокойный пляж, в котором можно оставаться в дали от цивилизации. С него открывается потрясающий вид на архипелаг островов Хонг (Koh Hong) и очаровательные закаты. С пляжа, вы можете дойти до национального парка и подняться на вершину горы и посмотреть водопад. На пляжах Ко Ланты (Koh Lanta) огромное количество курортов на любой вкус и достаток. Остров Ланта Яй (Lаnta Yai) славится длинными, белыми, песчаными пляжами переходящими в изумрудное море. Гуляя, по южной части острова, вы можете наткнуться на уединенный райский уголок с высаженной тропической растительностью.

ПРИРОДНЫЕ ИСТОЧНИКИ Известняковые горы и отвесные скалы характеризуют местность Краби, а наиболее зрелищным и массивным является Сай Тай (Sai Tai). Не далеко от Ао Нанга (Ao Nang) есть уникальное геологическое место - Сюзан Хой (Susaan Hoi) “кладбище ракушек” . Плиты у побережья моря, напоминающие куски старого, потрескавшегося асфальта, на самом деле – плиты, спрессованные из остатков древних моллюсков, чей возраст более 40 млн. лет. Территория кладбища ракушек была в доисторические времена пресным болотом, на дне которого тысячелетиями накапливались ракушечные отложения. Впоследствии, болото пересохло, а останки его обитателей теперь виднеются на поверхности в виде песчаных плит 40-сантиметровой толщины. К кладбищу моллюсков примыкает живописный мангровый лес, в котором проложены специальные туристические тропы. Крупнейший природный парк провинции Краби Као Пханом Бенча (Khao Phanom Bencha), находится всего в 20 км. от города Краби. Этот Национальный парк является домом для множества редких растений и диких животных, среди которых леопарды, пантеры, тигры, тапиры и гиббоны. Гора Phanom Bencha (1350 м.) является территориальным и туристическим центром всего заповедника. С горы сбегает 5 водопадов, крупнейший из которых  Хуай Тох (Huay Toh), расположен всего в 500 метрах от входа в парковую зону. Еще одной популярной туристической


КУЛЬТУРА Бан Натин (Ban Natin) - это место находится по пути из Ао Нанга (Ao Nang) в Клонг Муанг (Klong Muang), где вы сможете увидеть мирную жизнь местной мусульманской общины. Вы можете приехать туда на несколько дней или просто остановиться и посмотреть на изделия ручной работы.

достопримечательностью заповедника является пещера Tham Khao Pheung, украшенная живописными сталактитами и сталагмитами. Национальный парк Тарнбок Корании (Tarnbok Khoranee) находится в северной части региона, состоит из известняковых гор, зеленых тропических лесов, пещер, и красивых островов. Хорошо известен различными видами деревьев, растущих вокруг большого природного кристально чистого бассейна, и более сотен видов птиц. Пещерный комплекс Пи Хуа Тох (Phi Hua Toh) расположенный в районе Бор Тора (Bor Thor), состоит из нескольких пещер, каждая из которых уникальна. В некоторые из них, вы можете попасть на лодке, только во время отлива. Здесь вы сможете полюбоваться потрясающей красоты сталактитами и сталагмитами, древнейшими наскальными рисунками и следами доисторических поселений. Са Маракот (Sa Morakot) изумрудный бассейн. Это чудо природы, пруд с бирюзовой водой, питаемый горячими источниками в центре джунглей. Берега пруда представл��ют собой желтоватый камень, такой цвет ему придают отложения карбоната кальция. Вода в пруд поступает из горячих источников и имеет в разных местах разную температуру от 25°С до 49°С градусов. Здесь можно поплавать, полежать и отдохнуть душой и телом. Термальный источник Хот Спрингс в Клонг Том (Hot Springs of Klong Thom) представляет из себя смесь водопада с парной под открытым небом. Вулканические горячие ключи нагревают поток до 30°С – 40°С, превращая водопад в естественную сауну, вода в которой, к тому же, насыщенна полезными минералами. ОСТРОВА Отправьтесь на остров Ко Пода (Koh Poda), который покрыт пальмами и

почти полностью окружен мягким белым песчаным пляжем. Коралловый риф находится примерно в 20 метрах от пляжа с богатым разнообразием морской жизни. Также, вы можете посетить соседний остров Ко Кай (Koh Kai) или “Куриный остров”, который получил свое название от необычной формы скалы с одного конца острова, которая выглядит как голова и шея страуса или курицы. Одна часть острова состоит из крутых скал, другая имеет красивые пляжи. Теплая и чистая вода острова с богатым миром кораллов является популярным местом среди любителей снорклинга и дайвинга. Оттуда можно прогуляться по песчаной косе до острова Ко Туб (Koh Tub). Можно взять тур на лодке или на катере до архипелага островов Ко Хонг. Это группа островов из известняка со скрытыми пещерами и лагунами, которая идеально подходит для каякинга и подводного плавания. Возьмите тур на острова Ко Пхи Пхи (Koh Phi Phi) с живописными морскими бухтами, окруженными потрясающими известняковыми скалами, устремленными в небо прямо из океанских глубин, в пещерах гнездятся ласточки, вокруг богатый подводный мир, насыщенный морской жизнью, и многое, многое другое. Посетите острова Ко Джам (Koh Jum) и Ко Сибойя (Koh Siboya) скрытые от глаз человека, наполненные тропической растительностью и уникальной природой. Эти острова дают посетителям возможность расслабиться и прекрасно провести время. Также посетите остров Ланта (Lanta) в южной части провинции, который сейчас активно развивается. Ланта также является домом для морских циган, где вы сможете увидеть их традиции и познакомиться с их укладом жизни. Национальный парк включает в себя много различных островов, окруженных коралловыми рифами, такие как Ко Нгай (Koh Ngai) и Ко Рок (Koh Rok).

Текс переведен и отредактирован: Шинарита Стоун

Музей Ват Клонг Том (Wat Klong Thom) главный исторический музей провинции Краби. Доказательством того, что провинция Краби была одним из первых мест на карте современного Тайланда,   где возникли человеческие поселения, служит этот музей. В нем выставлены различные артефакты, найденные во время археологических раскопок. Экспозиция музея включает в себя доисторические каменные и бронзовые орудия, образцы древней керамики, монеты, предметы прикладного искусства и старинные кровати, возраст которых превышает 5000 лет.  Огненное шоу, это часть пляжной культуры и очень популярно в вечернее время суток на пляжах Ко Ланты (Koh Lanta) и Пхи Пхи (Phi Phi). Невероятная хореография, удивительный рисунок танца и множество завораживающих глаз моментов делают шоу с огнем просто незабываемым. Бан Санг-Ка-Ю (Ban Sang-Ka-U) место проживания “морских циган” на юговостоке острова Ланта Яй (Lanta Yai). Именно там живет старый клан В-Лей (v Ley) пытающийся сохранить исчезающий образ жизни в этой быстро развивающейся части острова. ГОРОД Очаровательный, маленький, тихий город. В Краби много старых зданий, баров, ресторанов и местных экзотических рынков с продуктовыми лавками на старой пристани Чао Фа (Chao Fa), там вы можете отведать блюда местной кухни. Девиз Краби: “Прекрасный город, Прекрасные люди” местные жители Краби гордятся своим городом и своим теплым и щедрым характером. С пирса Чао Фа (Chao Fa) можно отправиться на лодке до главного природного символа города Као Нам Канаб (Kho Nam Kanab) – 100-метровые скалы-близнецы расположены по обе стороны реки Краби и являются своеобразными водными воротами в Краби-таун. Также посетите остров Ко Кланг (Koh Klang) расположенный в устье реки, где вы сможете проникнуться жизнью местных рыболовных общин, и побывать в мангровых зарослях.

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топ

10

Лучших мест

для отдыха

Провинция Краби является раем для тех, кто любит солнце и ищет удовольствие, а также это одно из лучших мест в мире для скалолазания, дайвинга и каякинга. Журнал Краби предлагает вам топ 10 видов отдыха, которые стоит попробовать здесь, в Краби: КАЯКИНГ Это очень популярное занятие в Краби. Мангровые леса, пещеры и, конечно же, пляжи, дают много возможностей для каякинга. Ао Нанг и Рэйлэй пользуются большей популярностью, так как находятся близко и до них удобно добраться. Если же вы хотите больше приключений и хотите познакомиться с красивейшими местами провинции, уголками девственной природы и их обитателями, то отправьтесь в тур в Ао Талэин (Ao Thalane) или в Бор Тор (Bor Thor), которые находятся в Национальном парке Тарн Бок Корани (Tarn Boke Koranee). Пещеры, гроты и лагуны, сделают ваш день незабываемым. ВАТ ТАМ СУА (Wat Tham Suea) Храм «Тигровая Пещера» ВАТ ТАМ СУА (Wat Tham Suea) — одна из интереснейших достопримечательностей Краби. Храм расположен прямо под сводами пещеры. С вершины горы, в которой распалагается пещера с храмом, открывается потрясающая панорама на окрестности. Однако, чтобы попасть туда, вам предстоит преодолеть 1237 ступеней. В этой пещере археологами были найдены многочисленные древние артефакты, ныне хранящиеся в музее. А в пещере можно увидеть отпечаток ноги Будды и его величественную статую. Объедините поездку в Храм с другими достопримечательностями, например посетите еще Са Маракот (Sa Morakot) изумрудный бассейн или местный рынок. ЗАКАТЫ Основной достопримечательностью пляжа Ао Нанг (Ao Nang) и Ноппарат Тара (Noppharat Thara), конечно же, являются закаты . Муссонные дожди приносят тучи, которые зловеще нависают в небе над морем, создавая незабываемые закаты. Самая красота складывается из непостижимого и величественного “рисунка” подсвеченных облаков. Чем более “размазаны” облака по небу и чем более невероятны их формы, тем красивее закат.

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БАРЫ И МОРСКИЕ РЕСТОРАНЫ АО НАНГА И НОППАРАТ ТАРЫ После вечерней прогулки, завершите день бокалом коктейля в одном из баров на пляже или порадуйте себя ужином с морепродуктами. С правой стороны пляжа Ао Нанг находится улочка с ресторанами, где блюда из морепродуктов представлены в большом разнообразии или вы можете попробывать местную рыбную кухню в самом конце пляжа Ноппарат Тара. СКАЛОЛАЗАНИЕ ПЛЯЖ РЭЙЛЭЙ (RAILAY BEACH) Пляжи Рэйлей (Railay), Тонсай (Tonsay) и Прананг (Phranang) находятся на полуострове в Railay Bay совсем рядом с Ао Нангом и по праву считаются одними из самых красивых мест в Таиланде. А первоклассные маршруты для скалолазания на многочисленных скалах делают это место настоящей “Меккой” для скалолазов со всего мира. Практически на всех пляжах острова есть богатый выбор вулканических скал, по которым проложены 700 маршрутов разной степени сложности. И профессионал, и новичок в скалолазании найдут здесь подходящую скалу, магазины альпинистского снаряжения с доступными ценами или пункты проката, а также опытных инструкторов, которые смогут гарантировать безопасность во время занятий. РЫНКИ Как и во многих восточных странах, в Тайланде особое место занимают рынки. На местных рынках можно купить свежие овощи и фрукты, живую рыбу и различные морепродукты, мясо, яйца, одежду и обувь. Любой человек, пришедший сюда, моментально попадает в пестрый круговорот ярких цветов и запахов, доносящихся с прилавков уличных торговцев едой. Обычно, рынки работают со второй половины дня, когда солнце уже не сильно печет, примерно с 3-х часов дня, и до часов 7 вечера. Посетите рынок в районе Клонг Хенг на Ао Нанге, который работает по четвергам и субботам. СА МАРАКОТ (SA MARAKOT) Изумрудное озеро Са Моракот по праву считается изюминкой Краби. Вода здесь прозрачна в любое время года и меняется в зависимости от времени суток и угла падения солнечных лучей. Дорога к Изумрудному озеру великолепна: тропинка ведет среди переплетающихся лиан, плутает в ровных зарослях бамбука, теряется между деревьями,

нужно для счастья? Барный комплекс Central Point распалагает несколькими залами, в которых звучит живая музыка и всемирно известные хиты прошлых лет. На Ао Нанге очень много пивных баров и ирландских пабов, где подается недорогое, но хорошее пиво и всевозможные закуски к нему. Стоит отметить, что, несмотря на то, что нравы в Ао Нанге более сдержанные, чем в Паттайе или Бангкоке, все же любители “клубнички” смогут побаловать себя, познакомившись с доступными девушками. Они работают в местных гоугоу барах, расположенных на улице Сой Салай (Soi Salai). Пляж Ноппарат Тара, порадует вас колоритнейшим баром «Хиппи» и ярким пляжным баром Luna, в котором имеется великолепный танцпол.

радует порхающими разноцветными бабочками и юркими ящерками. И вот за деревьями появляется Изумрудное озеро с целебной водой, насыщенной минералами и природными солями. Чуть дальше есть Голубое озеро, поражающее цветом своей воды, им можно только любоваться и наблюдать, как из-под земли бьют горячие источники. АРХИПЕЛАГ КО ХОНГ (KOH HONG) Н�� одно посещение Краби или Ао Нанга не будет полным, без поездки на острова Ко Хонг (Koh Hong) это потрясающая группа островов расположенных у побережья Краби (Хонг в переводе с тайского - “комната”) Пляжи Ко Хонг никогда не перестанут удивлять кристально чистой водой, большим количеством разнообразных рыб у берега, и белоснежным песком на пляже. В скалах можно обнаружить узкий проход в закрытую бухту, внутри которой, вы сможете увидеть мангровые деревья, уходящие своими корнями в воду.

ЛОДОЧНЫЕ ТУРЫ В МАНГРОВЫЕ ЗАРОСЛИ Это интересное путешествие для любителей экотуризма. Манговые заросли, которые окаймляют побережье различных островов, создают каналы с лабиринтами. Во время прогулки на лодке, можно увидеть и посетить множество интересных мест: удивительный лес мангровых зарослей, пальм и лиан; скалистые острова с гротами и пещерами; большие и маленькие каньоны, где обитают красивые тропические птицы. Отправиться в это незабываемое путешествие можно со старого причала Чаофа (Chaofa).

МЕСТНАЯ НОЧНАЯ ЖИЗНЬ На Ао Нанге имеется большое количество баров, ресторанов и ночных клубов, рассчитанных на все вкусы. Однако Ао Нанг хорош и своей демократичностью: местные цены доступны практически всем, причем качество блюд, напитков и обслуживания от этого не страдает. Стильный бар «Last Fisherman» настоящий эталон пляжных баров. Бамбуковый навес, столики на песке, звезды, отличная музыка – что еще

Текс переведен и отредактирован: Шинарита Стоун

77


What is That?

O

Giant Forest Scorpion

ne of the considerations we must make when travelling to an exotic locale such as Thailand, is that there are going to be lots of creepy crawlies of the type you might not see back in our home countries. While most of them are not as bad for you as you might think, the general air of EEEEWWWWWW-iness around them demands you take a step back and watch your toes. This month we take a look at the Giant Forest Scorpion - otherwise knows by men with beards as Heterometrus. They go by many names depending the location they are found. The Heterotetrus exist all across South East Asia, including Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Tibet. There is an decent chance you might see one of these big boys during your stay here, as they are relatively common. They tend to hide in dark corners most of the time, coming out at night to scuttle around and feed. This alone is a good reason to always wear footwear after the lights go out. It’s also a very good idea to check the aforementioned footwear before slipping your feet in, if you catch my drift…

Shaking hands was never a good idea at the night market

This is why a lot of Thais wear flip flops. But like a lot of big, scary looking members of the animal kingdom, the Giant Forest Scorpion is not the nastiest of the bunch. It may look the part, but it is a docile variant that, yes, while it has a large stinger it will wave around if cornered, the actual sting is not that bad. I hasten to add that I do not speak from experience on this, but apparently it’s in the same league as a bee sting. The site will go red and sore for a few hours, but nothing more. The smaller scorpions are the ones to look out for, as they tend to pack more of a punch.

B

ecause of it’s docile nature, large size and relatively mild sting, these make popular pets and they are sold all over the world in exotic stores. Personally, I think they’re better to scuttle around free than be kept in a glass case in Birmingham, but that’s just me. They can grow up to about 200mm in length and this is usually enough to frighten off most predators - including us humans. When cornered or frightened, they will raise up their long tail and open their large, powerful claws to make themselves look even more threatening, if that were possible. This doesn’t seem to work for everyone though, as they can

78

Erm....two please

be found in many Asian night markets for sale as a deep-fried snack on a stick. No, I’m serious. Take a look the next time you’re in a market and you may be surprised at what you find. Apparently, according to the vendors (of course) the frying process destroys their venom, making them crispy, crunchy and safe to eat. They taste like bacon, so I’m told. So now you know they are here, have been for thousands of years and plan to be here long after we shuffle of this planet. Don’t be scared of them, rather respect them and take photos if you see one, as this is all part of the rich tapestry that is travel.


You know you’ve been in Thailand too long when... • You think it’s normal to have a beer at 9:00 a.m. • You no longer wait in line, but immediately go to the head of the queue • You stop at the bottom of the escalator to plan your day • You’re willing to pay to use a toilet you wouldn’t go to within a kilometer of at home • You have considered buying a motorcycle for the next family car • You regard it as part of an adventure when the waiter exactly repeats your order and the cook makes something completely different • Tuk-tuk drivers, tailors’ touts and the ladies from the massage shops stop bothering you • You have figured out how to effectively take off the elastic bands from food items in plastic bags • You answer the telephone with “Hello” more than 5 times • A T-bone steak and rice sounds just fine • You treat traffic lights, stop signs and pedestrian crossings with total disregard • You’re not surprised when three men with a ladder show up to change a light bulb • Taxi drivers understand you • You own a rice cooker • You can shake your hands almost perfectly dry before wiping them on your pants • You look four ways before crossing a one way street • You put salt and chilli on your fruit • You think a polo shirt and jeans are formal attire • You haven’t had a solid stool for five years. • You think that a Honda Civic is a prestigious car • You wear a wooly hat and gloves when it drops below 30 degrees Celsius • You think white wine goes well with Som Tam • You start driving cars with bare feet • You think a calendar more useful than a watch • You stand in the shadow of a telephone pole while waiting for a bus

Floods? No, no floods here...

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Krabi Magazine Around the World This section has really started to take off, with people grabbing their copies of Krabi Magazine and taking them to far-flung places of the globe just to get their mug in print. This was exactly our plan when the idea was hatched in a dark and dingy bar several aeons ago, and it appears to be working. There are now copies of the best magazine in the world - yes, the world - in Germany, The Netherlands, Malaysia and now Uganda in Africa. Miss Carmen Tondida sent us this photo of herself at the equator that passes through the country, and what a shot it is. If you think you can beat Carmen’s contribution, then come and show us what you can do. We want to see you holding a copy of Krabi Magazine in front of somewhere far, far away - preferably a landmark that we can recognize - and smiling like a goon. Tell us your name, your nationality, where the photo was taken and what you most enjoyed about your time in Krabi, and you might be joining the ranks of those gracing this page.

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DOWN 1 Local guy “Oh” had a famous dad around here. His job was...? 2 Official title for the nippy stingy thing you see at night. What is that? 4 Krabi Magazine makes it to where this month for her overseas travels? 6 A great night out at Venezia with this cuisine 8 Cooking on the white sand of Lanta with one of these Layana weekender treats. 9 Walking like an Egyptian into this place 12 What greenery is Sheraton shouting about this month? 15 Sofitel are preparing for next month’s famous festival of.. 16 That’s a lot of schools! Well done Amari... 17 These are the people in your neighbourhood - the ones in the trance and slicing themselves up... 18 This kind of business can get you a Work Permit easier. Punch me! 19 That’s a load of garbage! Well done islanders...

Across Down A little-known hideaway with a 1 Local guy "Oh" had a famous dad largest order of insects they may be, but ACROSS 14 The second firey name (5,4) around here. His job was...? 3 A little-known hideaway with a firey name (5,4) what on earth are they? Lanta knows... Fast cars coming Krabi's 2 Official title for the nippy stingy Titanic direction. 5 Fast cars coming Krabi’s direction. thing you see at night.20What is news for Krabi divers who can explore these Collette says this Everytime her that? 7 Collette says this in Everytime in her book soon... book 4 Krabi Magazine makes it to where 10 This handy keychain accessory can help you to take 21 Where are those Houben folks? Ba... This handy keychain accessory this month for her overseas travels? better photos 22 Chilling can help you to take better 6 A great night out at Venezia without, relaxing and snorkeling on Koh Jum with photos this cuisine 11 This winged silversmith gives us a ring - and we this French/Thai resort. This winged silversmith gives us a 8 Cooking on the white 23 sand of Lanta answer! Seeing in water? 5 stars to you sir! (4,6) ring - and we answer! with one of these Layana 13 How many different breads at U&P these days? How many different breads at weekender treats. U&P these days? 9 Walking like an Egyptian into this The second largest order of place


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Krabi Magazine November