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TEAROOMS • FOOD • TEA • TABLE SETTINGS

Celebrating YEARS

®

7 2 Ideas & Autumn Recipes Delightful

SEPT/OCT 2018 $5.99 US

Vol 15, Issue 5

$7.99CAN

DISPLAY UNTIL SEPTEMBER 25, 2018

Page 37





Cooking & K Russian Kansas City’ss Baking with Teaa T Tea Room Tea Treasuress T Page 48

Page 61


SEPTEMBER/ OCTOBER 2018 ................................. VOLUME 15 . ISSUE 5

bliss to me, “ Every leafflspeaks uttering from the

autumn

tree.

—Emily Brontë

teatimemagazine.com

2


table of contents

29

21 59

Embellishments

Infusions

Departments

13 Necessary hings: A Bountiful Harvest

17 he Perfect Cup: In Search of Oriental Beauty

7 Come for Tea

Seasonally inspired gifts

Finding Braggart’s Tea

15 Our Favorites: Oolongs

47 he Tea Diaries: he Cat that Came for Tea

Best-loved infusions

Lasting memories of tea for three

19 he Complete Table: Efflorescent Autumn

48 he Tea Experience: Taking Tea in Kansas City

Alfred Meakin’s Medway Décor

Noteworthy Midwestern venues

Essential information

54 TeaTime 15

65 Advertisers’ Index

Accoutrements for preparing better tea

A guide to supporting companies

59 Babington’s

65 Recipe Index

An English tearoom in Rome, Italy

Helpful directory of featured foods

Indulgences 21 Harvest Tea Savoring the flavors of fall

29 Music Tea A buffet-style tea for after recital

37 Teatime for Tea Lovers Tea in every recipe

46 Gluten-free Scone: Apple of Our Eye Cheese, nuts, and green apple

A note from the editor

9 Dear TeaTime Letters from readers

11 Tea Events Calendar Events in September and October

63 Resources for Readers

61 Afternoon Tea at the Russian Tea Room with Ali Ewoldt

TEAROO MS • FOOD • TEA • TABLE SETTIN G

YEARS

Getting to know the Broadway star

7 2Ideas& Autumn Recipes Delightful

76 <0+7>-: Royal Crown Derby’s Old Avesbury cup and saucer along with Aves Gold teapot take centerstage in this issue’s Harvest Tea (page 21). Cover photography by Jim Bathie

}

Cooking & Baking with Te Page 37

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TeaTime September/October 2018

Celebrating

ansas City a Treasure

Page 48

ussian a Room

Page 61


N EW BO O K! Award-winning author Janee Pettigrew will be speaking and signing books at Northwest Tea Festival in Seattle, September 29 & 30, 2018. For more information, o nwteafestival.com. go to

From the cool, rainy climate of Northern Ireland to the benign sunshine of Tasmania, Camellia sinensis is now cultivated in more than 65 countries around the globe. Jane Pettigrew’s exploration of tea farming and manufacture reveals the care and dedication of all those who nurture this remarkable plant to ofer us an ininite choice of wonderful teas.

ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY!

©Harendong Green Farm Used by permission.

Hofman Media Store P.O. Box 6302 • Harlan, IA 51593

800-361-8059

HOFFMANMEDIASTORE.COM/JANE M/JANE


Polite Society School of Etiquette

September/October 2018

Volume 15, Issue 5

THE ART OF THE SOCIAL GRACES EDITORIAL EDITOR Lorna Reeves CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Jane Pettigrew James Norwood Pratt, Bruce Richardson ASSOCIATE EDITOR Britt E. Staford RECIPE EDITOR Fran Jensen SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother COPY EDITOR Barbara McCarthy EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Katherine Cloninger

GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Deanna Rippy Gardner ART DIRECTOR

Leighann Lott Bryant ST YLIST

Courtni Bodiford

TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh ASSISTANT TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR

Melissa Gray CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY

Mac Jamieson SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER John O’Hagan

Offering Beginning, Advanced, Business, and Tea Etiquette Courses

New! One-on-one Interactive Tea Etiquette Course Offered Online

Ms. Bernadette M. Petrotta

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Nicole Du Bois, Stephanie Welbourne Steele ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER Caroline Smith SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST

FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS

Laura Crandall, Kathleen Kanen, Tricia Manzanero, Vanessa Rocchio, Jade Sinacori, Elizabeth Stringer ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST/ RECIPE DEVELOPER

Anita Simpson Spain RECIPE TESTER Ashley Jones

Delisa McDaniel Clark Densmore

Founder & Director

PoliteSocietySchool.com PoliteSocietySchool.blogspot.com PoliteSocietySchool@whidbey.com 360.929.3820 Whidbey Island, WA

D I G I TA L M E D I A MARKETING DIRECTOR Tricia Wagner Williams ONLINE EDITOR Janece Maze DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert

A D M I N I S T R AT I V E HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR

Judy Brown Lazenby IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER

Janice Ritter ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL

Alex Kolar

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Claire Bucalos [NC, VA, WV, DC, MD] Hagan Media/Katie Hagan [AL, FL, TN] Kathy Gross [FL, GA, SC] Katie Guasco [LA, MS] Liane Lane [AR, CO, NM, OK, TX] Rhapsodic Media/Kathy Burke [IL, IN, IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, OH, WI] DIRECT RESPONSE Hagan Media/Katie Hagan

MARKETING DIRECTOR Megan McIllwain MARKETING COORDINATOR Logan Merrill ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Sullivan GRAPHIC DESIGNER

For assistance with advertising, please call (888) 411-8995.

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO PRESIDENT/COO

Eric W. Hofman

EVP/CFO Mary P. Cummings EVP/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING VP/DIGITAL MEDIA

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EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50 Birmingham, AL 35243 (888) 411-8995

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PRESIDENT/CCO

VP/CULINARY & CUSTOM CONTENT

Brooke Michael Bell VP/SHELTER CONTENT Cindy Smith Cooper VP/ADMINISTRATION Lynn Lee Terry

SUBSCRIPTIONS & CUSTOMER SERVICE TeaTime, P.O. Box 6201 Harlan, IA 51593 (800) 284-0023 TEAcustserv@cdsfulillment.com

teatimemagazine.com TeaTime (ISSN #1559-212X) is published bi-monthly by Hoffman Media, LLC, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. The cover and contents of TeaTime are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: For the United States, $22.98 per year, 6 issues; add $10 for postage in Canada; add $20 elsewhere. Single issues $5.99 available at newsstands and bookstores. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO TeaTime, PO Box 6201, Harlan, IA, 51593, (800) 284-0023. NOTE: TeaTime assumes no responsibility for unsolicited photographs and manuscripts; submissions cannot be returned without a self-addressed stamped envelope.

5

©2018 Hoffman Media, LLC. Printed in the USA.

TeaTime September/October 2018


NEW BOOK! While the custom of afternoon tea originated in Europe, the beverage itself has ties around the world. Tea Parties Around the World, a 136-page hardback book by the editors of award-winning TeaTime magazine, celebrates teaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s global roots with ten menus inspired by different countries and cultures. Expert tea pairings, along with a tea-steeping primer, make it simple to choose and prepare the perfect pot of tea to accompany any of the delicacies in this book. With 97 recipes, Tea Parties Around the World presents a collection of scones, savories, and sweets perfect for treating teatime guests to an international culinary tour without the need for a passport.

ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY!

3 EASY WAYS TO ORDER Enter or mention code TEAW18E Hoffman Media Store P.O. Box 6302 â&#x20AC;˘ Harlan, IA

800-361-8059

HOFFMANMEDIASTORE.COM/TEAPARTIES


editor’s letter

come for

ea

Autumn is upon us once agai with it comes the gorgeous hues of changing fol along with the everso-pleasant cooler temperatures, which usher in the tea parties and tea festivals of the season. he marvelous array of produce and warm spices traditionally associated with fall inspires this issue’s “Harvest Tea” (cover and page 21). Sure to garner rave reviews, our music-themed, buffet-style teatime (page 29) is perfect for an after-recital celebration. And if cooking or baking with tea strikes your fancy, you’ll delight in “Teatime for Tea Lovers” (page 37), which incorporates tea into every recipe of this inventive afternoon-tea menu. September is a busy month for tea festivals, with excellent ones taking place in Missouri, Pennsylvania, and Washington. (See “Mark Your Calendars!” below.) Kansas City is host to the Midwest Tea Festival annually, and the area truly is a treasure trove of great places for tea. Each of the three years I have attended the event, I have discovered more tearooms and tea shops. Read about these venues beginning on page 48, and then make plans to join us at this year’s festival. Tea festivals are the ideal places to taste new teas and to learn about other tea cultures, how to host a tea party, and how to prepare tea better. At these events, I often happen upon wonderful gadgets for steeping and serving tea. Last year at the Pennsylvania Tea Festival, I was browsing in the Greenhalgh Tea booth and saw (and, of course, purchased) a travel-size water boiler by Bonavita that is much easier to take on trips than the full-size programmable kettle I had been packing. (You’ll see that petite boiler along with other accoutrements that will improve your tea preparation in this issue’s installment of the 15th anniversary article series, “TeaTime 15,” which begins on page 54.) While I certainly enjoy shopping at the various booths and doing presentations at these events, the highlight for me is getting to meet TeaTime readers, hearing what you like about the magazine, and getting ideas from you about what we should feature. I hope to chat with you soon. May all your teatimes be special this autumn!

Mark Your Calendars!

7

Midwest Tea Festival September 8–9, 2018

Pennsylvania Tea Festival September 28–29, 2018

Northwest Tea Festival September 29–30, 2018

Ararat Shrine Auditorium Kansas City, MO midwestteafest.com

The Rosemary House Mechanicsburg, PA teafestpa.com

Seattle Center Seattle, WA nwteafestival.com

TeaTime September/October 2018


dear TeaTime SPECIAL BRITISH ISSUE

Celebrating

155 YEARS

®

A Beloved Magazine

73 3

“TeaTime magazine is my favorite magazine! One of my favorite segments is ‘he Tea Experience’ that shows photos and tells the story of how the shop owners began their tearooms. Inspiring! hank you, TeaTime!”

for p Afternoon Tea

“My favorite teatime is anytime. Hot or cold—love tea! And love TeaTime magazine!”

Page 46

Page 55

Page 29

July/August l 2018

Expert Recommendations

JANE ARTEMAN BILL via Facebook “A big thank you to TeaTime magazine! I hosted a high tea party today for our group, the YaYa’s, and planned a menu using recipes from different issues of TeaTime magazine. TeaTime was a wonderful guide! he recipes were easy to follow, and my YaYa sisters and I enjoyed a lovely tea party and a wonderful day together. I enjoy reading each issue of TeaTime and eagerly look forward to the next. TeaTime will be my guide again for Christmas brunch with my YaYa sisters!” PAT VAR via e-mail

Afternoon Tea Britain’s 5 Best hemed in an English Garden Tearooms 

15 Teas Every Tea Lover Should Taste



DEBBIE AYERS via letter

“Love the 15 teas list [from July/ August 2018, pages 46–50]! I don’t mind investing in a pricier tea when it is backed by expert advice!” KIMBERLY BRINGE via Facebook

Perfect Tee Time Inspiration “We had invited friends over for dinner who are avid golfers. As Spring was late in coming, I decided to take inspiration from your article entitled “Teatime for Tee Time” [May/June 2018, pages 37–44]. . . . Please keep your tablescape ideas coming!” ELIZABETH FAIRLEY via e-mail

“Teat ime for Tee Time,” May/June 2018

Your Comments, Please We truly enjoy hearing from our readers. Connect with us on Facebook, or write to us at teatime@hoffmanmedia.com or at Dear TeaTime, TeaTime Magazine, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. Your comments might be printed in an upcoming issue.


tea events calendar

11

September 15  16 28  29

How to Speak Brit

Tea with a Cause

Pennsylvania Tea Festival

2:30 p.m. Lady Bedfordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tea Parlour Pinehurst, North Carolina

1:00 p.m. he Green Leaf Tea Company Lincoln, Nebraska

9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. he Rosemary House & Sweet Remembrances Tea Room Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Apples and pears,â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;my go,â&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;oďŹ&#x20AC; to the loo.â&#x20AC;? hese are just a few of the phrases speaker Allis Rennie will cover in her talk, â&#x20AC;&#x153;How to Speak Brit.â&#x20AC;? Join us for afternoon tea and begin your journey into the colloquialisms of the British. his educational and entertaining event costs $30 per person. To make a reservation or for more information, call 910-255-0100.

September is National Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month. Owned by an ovarian cancer survivor, the Green Leaf Tea Company is hosting a teal-themed tea, and all proceeds raised will be donated to the National Ovarian Cancer Coalition, which supports patients and families impacted by this disease. Guests will enjoy three-tiered platters piled high with tea sandwiches, scones, and bitesize desserts. his event costs $23.50 per person. Reservations are required and can be made by calling 402-7868327. For more information, visit thegreenleafteacompany.com.

October 9ď&#x161;ť12, 15ď&#x161;ť17 13 Harry Potter Afternoon Tea

Autumn Splendor Tea

11:30 a.m. & 3:00 p.m. Shakespeareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corner Shoppe & Afternoon Tea San Diego, California

11:00 a.m. Miss Spenserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Special-Teas New Virginia, Iowa

Join fellow Harry Potter fans for a teatime that celebrates the beloved books and movies. hemed treats will include Butterbeer Tea, Harryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Treacle Tarts, and Sorting Hat Biscuits. here will also be a quiz, quotes, and a Harry Potter take-home gift. Costumes are highly encouraged. h is event costs $42.95 per person, and reservations are required. To hold your spot, call 619683-2748. For more information, visit sandiegoafternoontea.com.

Enjoy a lovely fall day at Miss Spenserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of Longview Farms, where the tapestry of colors and a delicious harvest tea menu awaits. Bring a friend and escape from the hustle and bustle of life to the country for a spectacular view of the changing leaves of the trees. h is seasonal tea costs $30 per person, and reservations are required. To reserve your spot, or learn more about this event, call 641-342-1547.

Tea aďŹ cionados and neophytes will enjoy two days of exciting events and experiences at the Pennsylvania Tea Festival. Held in a lovely herb garden, this festival features lectures, exhibits, live music, tea tastings, and a number of vendors you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to miss. Tickets for this event cost $12 per person when purchased in advance. Tickets can also be purchased the day of the festival for $15 per person. Tea tastings require a separate ticket. To purchase your tickets and for more information, visit teafestpa.com.

13 Murder at the Grand Gatsby Speakeasy Dinner Tea Six seatings (4:00 to 7:30 p.m.) Tilted Teacup Brooksville, Florida Prepare for an evening of mystery, intrigue, and tea at the Tilted Teacup. Guests will be assigned a character to play while enjoying high tea, which includes dinner and fresh, hot tea. Tickets for this event cost $45 per person, and reservations are required. To reserve your spot, call 352-593-4111. Learn more at thetiltedteacuptearoom.com. Grand Gatsby murder mystery party is a licensed product of mymysteryparty.com.

If you would like to publicize a tea event in your area, please send details and information at least four months before the event date to teatime@hoffmanmedia.com or to Tea Events Calendar, TeaTime Magazine, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. Your event could be included in a future issue.

11

TeaTime September/October 2018

tell us!


Be a part of our celebration of the exciting world of tea. The Northwest Tea Festival is a fun and educational event about the multifaceted world of tea. Our goal is to provide experiences covering all aspects of tea, from the cultural to the historical and the sensory to the scientific.

PHOTO CREDIT-RICH LILLY

PHOTO CREDIT-ANDREW GOODMAN

Bringing together authors, industry experts, buyers, retailers, artists, and educators, we hope you learn something new and expand your enjoyment of this most fascinating of beverages!

PHOTO CREDIT-ANDREW GOODMAN

PHOTO CREDIT-ANDREW GOODMAN

PHOTO CREDIT-RICH LILLY

SEPTEMBER 29 & 30 , 2018 TH

TH

nwteafestival.com

PHOTO CREDIT-RICH LILLY

• Sample some of the finest teas from all over the world. • Attend presentations led by leading tea authors and industry experts. • Meet premier tea and tea ware suppliers.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28 SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29 9 A.M. – 4 P.M.

This two day annual specialty tea event will be held in the fragrant herb gardens of The Rosemary House and Sweet Remembrances in charming downtown Mechanicsburg, PA and will feature: • Variety of Merchants and Vendors • Informative Programs • Range of Teas and Herbal Tisanes • Musical Entertainment • Tea Tastings and Tea Culture • Something for Everyone

TICKETS: $12 IN ADVANCE | $15 DAY OF EVENT The Rosemary House and Sweet Remembrances Tea Room 118 - 120 S. Market Street Mechanicsburg, PA 17055 717-697-5111 CHARITABLE PARTNER FOR 2018: A portion of your admission will go toward Direct Relief, humanitarian aid.

TEAFESTPA.COM teatimemagazine.com

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necessary things

A Bountiful Harvest Fall in love with an autumnal assortment of teatime necessities. Text by Katherine Cloninger / Photography by Nicole Du Bois

Bronze Beauties Enhance your tablescape and accessorize your napkins with intricate and elegant Harvest Leaf napkin rings. ($32.99 for set of 4, wayfair.com or 844-654-8283)

Seasonal Sweetness Impart the ďŹ&#x201A;avors of pumpkin spice, hazelnut, maple, or white chocolateâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; macadamia to your tea with festive, fall sugar cubes. ($8 for 12 sugars, artisansugars.com or 800-923-6822)

Pumpkin Perfection Add an element of whimsy to your afternoon tea with this one-of-a-kind Autumn Blossom teapot designed by artist Heather Goldminc. ($59.99, blueskyclayworks.com or 909-930-6200)

Decorative Delight While you prepare your favorite cuppa, rest your tea bag, spoon, or infuser on this rustic, handcrafted Bronze Leaf teabag caddy. ($3.95, stashtea.com or 800-800-8327)

Steeping Sensation his pretty, wooden Flower Power Tea Nest keeps the tea hot longer while the leaves infuse, and its removable basket makes cleanup easy. ($14, teatangent.com or 610-756-6439)

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TeaTime September/October 2018

Beguiling Brews Boil water in style and on all heat sources, including induction, with this beautiful Bredemeijer copper singing tea kettle. ($114.95, gourmetkitchenworks.com)


Memories made with every cup.

Family Owned and Operated, Traditional English-style Tea Room, Homemade Scones, Sandwiches, Quiche, Desserts, and High Tea Host your special occasion here: themed event, bridal shower, baby shower, or rehearsal dinner, We offer catering and specialty cakes. Buses Welcome | Seats up to 60 | Reservations Recommended

787 West Montrose Street | Clermont, FL 34711 | 908-670-2305 Only 15 minutes from Disney in Historic Downtown Shopping District

www.erikastearoom.com

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Susan Asher • Owner hyme-out Tea Parties

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My Tea Party Hostess Training Manual includes everything you need to start your tea party hostess business; recipes & menu planning, promotional & marketing ideas, business planning. Please call 217-885-3049 or for more details visit

www.thymeoutteaparties.com

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tart a ostess

Trail Lodge Tea specializes in Fair Trade Certiŋed Teas and unique blends.

Try these delicious teas: RED PANDA BREAKFAST TEA APPLE CRISP KANCHANJANGHA VERDE www.traillodgetea.com USE COUPON CODE TEA TIME FOR 15% OFF ORDER

F French themed Tea Salon and Cafe serving full luncheon and tea fare, d desserts and imported teas. A little bit of Paris in Old Towne Orange, CA

www.parisinacup.com · 714-538-9411 119 S Glassell Street, Orange, CA 92866 teatimemagazine.com

14


our favorites

Gaba Oolong

Extra Fancy Formosa Oolong

GRACE TEA COMPANY

MARK T. WENDELL

Creamy Toasted Coconut Oolong SIMPSON & VAIL

gracetea.com • 978-635-9500

marktwendell.com • 978-635-9200

svtea.com • 800-282-8327

TEACUP: R ichard Ginori Galli Rossi

TEACUP: Julie Wear Gold Oak

TEACUP: Anna Weatherly Simply Anna

“he honeyed, banana-like notes of this oolong, which was exposed to nitrogen to boost gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) levels that are thought to promote mental function, make this a favorite.” —Lorna Reeves, editor

“Extra Fancy Formosa Oolong has a refreshing earthy quality that gives way to hints of roasted plums and peaches. A wonderful tea worth steeping again and again.”

“With bits of coconut and beautiful pieces of cornflower, this blend brews a sweet and light tea that reminds me of a delicious baked treat.” —Katherine Cloninger, editorial assistant

—Janice Ritter, dealer program manager

Oolong Teas Enjoy a delightful array of flavors as you steep these teas multiple times.

Pink Passionfruit Oolong

San Lin Xi Oolong

SIMPSON & VAIL

HARNEY & SONS

NEWBY

svtea.com • 800-282-8327

harney.com • 800-832-8463

newbyteas.us • 517-999-0590

TEACUP: Bernardaud Voyage

TEACUP: Bernardaud Capucine

TEACUP: Haviland Ritz Imperial Bronze

“With a subtle blend of fruity and floral notes, this tea is naturally sweet and aromatic, making for a delightful brew for autumn or any time of the year.”

“he balled leaves of this high-mountain Taiwanese oolong unfurl to yield a tea that has a rich, creamy mouthfeel and a light citrusy, yet honeysuckle, fl avor.”

“A longer steeping time is definitely worth the smooth, herbaceous flavor and sweet aftertaste that comes from the twisted, curled up leaves of this oolong.”

—Courtni Bodiford, stylist

—Leighann Bryant, art director

Oriental Beauty Oolong

—Britt Stafford, associate editor

...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................

A GENTLE REMINDER: Oolongs can be steeped multiple times, with each infusion of the same leaves yielding a slightly different yet pleasing flavor. Water at 180 to 200 degrees is best, depending on the tea. Infuse for 50 seconds to 3 minutes, according to purveyor’s instructions and personal preference. Increase steep time slightly for subsequent infusions. All cups and saucers are available from Bromberg’s, 205-871-3276, brombergs.com.

15

TeaTime September/October 2018


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larkintea.com

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tea-for-all.com 609-577-8038

One Steep at a Thyme Tearoom Afternoon Tea by Reservation Private Events & Tea Education Premium Loose Leaf Teas & Gifts Exclusive Meeting Venue 170 Gatzmer Ave Jamesburg, NJ 08831 732-641-2570 www.OneSteepataThyme.com

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the perfect cup (Far left) Workers carefully pluck leaves with just the right amount of blemishes for Oriental Beauty. (Left) Leaves are inspected before purchase. (Below) Finished dryy tea is a work off art.

Text and Photography by Bruce Richardson

he road from Taipei rises ever higher into the ountains of Taiwan’s Hsinchu County as it anders through forest-covered hills and beside deep valleys dotted with occasional homes and farms clinging to the mountainside. I came to Taiwan on a mission. I was in search of the source of one of the world’s most mysterious teas—a bug-bitten oolong indigenous to these mountains and known to tea connoisseurs as Oriental Beauty. May was about to become June, and rising temperatures were nudging tiny leafhoppers to begin their annual feasting on succulent, young tea plants. Nocturnal by nature, these cricket-like insects swiftly leap, fly, nibble, and hide throughout the tea garden. In most instances, farmers would act to rid their gardens of these pests, but for tea farmers of northwest Taiwan, these invaders are a welcome sight because their arrival marks the beginning of the season for making Bai Hao oolong. Commonly called jassips or thrips, these tiny predators chew small holes in the leaves, which initiates premature oxidation as the leaf manufactures an enzyme to fend off its attacker. A small amount of damage is good, but a greater amount of mutilation can cause the leaf to wilt and drop off. his tea can only be picked by workers with keen eyes who can discern leaves scarred with just the right percentage of blemishes. Tea growers once thought tea leaves damaged like this were worthless. But legend has it that a tea farmer in this district decided to process the leaves into tea rather than destroying his harvest. He showed his finished tea to a local tea merchant who liked it well enough to pay him twice the price of his usual tea. 17

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When the farmer returned to his village, he boasted to his neighbors about his success. His neighbors believed he was exaggerating and so named his tea, Peng Feng Cha or Braggart’s Tea. With my guide, local tea maker Norman Shu, I arrived at a hilltop garden where we watched pickers meticulously pluck leaves to fill their small baskets. (Workers can only harvest a few kilograms of leaf each day.) he fresh leaves were taken immediately to a nearby factory, where the master tea maker spread them on the factory floor to wither for several hours. Later, they were repeatedly tossed, panned, rolled, and dried to an oxidation percentage of about 65 percent. he finished tea, filled with fine, dark-red twisty leaves dotted with fluffy silver buds, is a work of art. I drank seemingly endless cups of this Braggart’s Tea with the tea maker as farmers brought their canvas bags of fresh leaves to be inspected before purchase. Sipping it while the next batch was being made before my eyes was about as good as it gets for an oolong lover like me. As with all exceptional oolongs, Oriental Beauty should be steeped multiple times in a small teapot— preferably made from Yixing clay—and sipped in small, handless cups while in the company of a friend. he tea leaves a lingering finish on your tongue which can last for hours. he coppery and velvet liquor is fragrant with honeyed, floral, and fruity notes. Now, that’s a tea I, too, can brag about! TeaTime contributing editor Bruce Richardson is coauthor of he New Tea Companion (Expanded hird Edition, 2015) published by Benjamin Press, available at elmwoodinn.com.


the complete table

Efflorescent Autumn Alfred Meakin’s Medway Décor melds the subdued hues of autumn with a vibrant floral motif.

Text by Britt Stafford / Photography by Caroline Smith and Nicole Du Bois

he equinox on September 22 marks the beginning of a season of simple easureschills in the air, changing colors of leaves, apples and gourds alore, and much more. While beautiful blooms are most often associated with springtime, the combination of a flourishing floral design with the traditional hues of fall can be a refreshing approach to an autumnal tea table. Alfred Meakin’s Medway Décor in dark brown combines muted tones with a bright, blossoming motif and the occasional sighting of a fluttering butterfly. Incorporate different rustic elements, such as a distressed wood table topped with a natural linen runner. Accentuate the china’s verdant leaves with green antiqued wood chargers. he beautiful detail on the stem of Oneida’s Coronation flatware mirrors the table’s floral theme.

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TeaTime September/October 2018


Dappled Delight

Embrace the natural elements of this pattern by pairing it with Gien’s Songe dinner plate—adorned with a wreath of dappled greenery—against a dainty, antique drawnwork tablecloth. Amber-colored water goblets embellish the setting for a refined afternoon tea.

Rustic Splendor

Brown Beauty

he neutral chromaticity in Medway Décor shines when atop the scalloped-edged Filets Taupe dinner plate by Gien. Brown patterned linens and carved woodhandled flatware, such as Capdeco’s Ellipse, create a charming atmosphere for teatime.

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Harvest Tea Savor the ďŹ&#x201A;avors of fall and celebrate the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bounty at an afternoon tea table bedecked with china boasting the rich, golden hues of autumn.


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Apple-Cranberry Scones Makes 10

2½ cups all-purpose flour ⁄ cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground mace ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed 1 cup diced peeled Gala apple ½ cup chopped frozen cranberries ¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons cold heavy whipping cream ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Garnish: additional granulated sugar

• Preheat oven to 375°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. • In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and mace. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add apple and cranberries, stirring well. • In a small bowl, stir together cream and vanilla extract. Add cream mixture to flour mixture, stirring until mixture is evenly moist. (If dough seems dry, add more cream, 1 tablespoon at a time.) Working gently, bring mixture together with hands until a dough forms. • Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and gently knead 4 to 5 times. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough to a 1-inch thickness. Using a 2¼-inch fluted round cutter, cut 10 scones from dough, rerolling scraps as necessary. Place scones 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle tops of scones with additional sugar, if desired. • Bake until edges of scones are golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in centers comes out clean, 18 to 20 minutes. Serve warm. Recommended Condiment • Clotted Cream

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TEA

sommelier .................................................................... Delight guests with this trio of teas from Global Tea Mart, perfectly paired to complement the autumnal flavors of the courses of this afternoon tea menu. To order, go to globalteamart.com, or call 844-208-2337. SCONE COURSE: Pumpkin Creme Black Tea SAVORIES COURSE: Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Golden Monkey Black Tea SWEETS COURSE: Da Hong Pao Oolong


• Using a sharp knife, trim bottom of artichoke hearts to level. Trim top of artichoke hearts, if needed. Set artichoke hearts on prepared baking sheet. • Using a sharp knife, cut each bacon slice in half lengthwise to create a total of 8 thin strips. Wrap each artichoke heart with a bacon strip, overlapping as needed. Secure bacon with a wooden pick. • Bake until bacon is browned and crisp, 18 to 20 minutes. • Top each toast round with a kale leaf and a baked artichoke heart, carefully removing toothpicks. Fill artichoke hearts with a dollop of mustard. Sprinkle with cheese. Serve warm.

Brisket and Slaw Roulades Makes 12

Honey, Thyme, and Goat Cheese Phyllo Cups

• Garnish with chopped thyme, if desired. Serve immediately.

Makes 15

15 mini frozen phyllo cups, thawed 1 (4-ounce) log goat cheese, softened 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper medley Garnish: fresh thyme sprigs

• Preheat oven to 350°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. • Place phyllo cups on prepared baking sheet. • Using a sharp knife, cut goat cheese into 15 portions to fit phyllo cups. Place goat cheese in cups, patting down to create a level surface. Lightly brush cheese with oil. • Bake until cheese is very warm, 8 to 10 minutes. • In a small bowl, combine honey and minced thyme. Spread honey mixture over cheese. Sprinkle with pepper. 25

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Bacon-Artichoke Canapés Makes 8

4 very thin slices wheat bread, frozen 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted 8 canned artichoke hearts 4 slices bacon 8 leaves baby kale 2 teaspoons whole-grain Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• Preheat oven to 350°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. • Using a 1¾-inch round cutter, cut 8 circles from frozen bread. Place on prepared baking sheet. Brush tops of bread rounds with melted butter. • Bake until crisp, 7 to 8 minutes. Let cool. • Increase oven temperature to 450°. Line another rimmed baking sheet with foil. Lightly spray foil with cooking spray.

⁄ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 2 teaspoons granulated sugar ½ teaspoon salt ⁄ teaspoon ground black pepper 2 cups finely chopped purple cabbage ⁄ cup finely chopped carrot 2 large multigrain flatbreads ½ cup chopped smoked brisket

• In a medium bowl, stir together mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper. Add cabbage and carrot, stirring until combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. • Stir slaw again, and drain well. Spread an even layer of slaw onto flatbreads. Scatter brisket on top of slaw. • Starting at one short side, roll up flatbreads firmly and evenly to encase ingredients and form a cylinder. Tuck ends under. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 4 hours. • Just before serving, remove plastic wrap. Using a serrated knife in a gentle sawing motion, trim and discard ends. Slice roulade into 12 (½-inch) slices. Serve immediately.


Chocolate-Apricot Brownie Bars Makes 24

¾ cup unsalted butter 2 (4-ounce) bars German’s sweet chocolate, chopped 1 (4-ounce) bar bittersweet chocolate, chopped ½ cup apricot preserves, warmed ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup granulated sugar 5 large eggs ⁄ cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt ⁄ cup heavy whipping cream 1 (4-ounce) bar semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

• Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 9-inch square baking pan with foil. Spray lightly with cooking spray. • In a medium saucepan, melt butter, sweet chocolate, and bitter-sweet chocolate over low heat, stirring frequently, until mixture is smooth and combined. Add warm apricot preserves and vanilla extract, stirring until combined. Remove from heat, and let cool slightly. • In a large bowl, beat together sugar and eggs with a mixer at medium speed until pale, approximately 3 minutes. • In a small bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. Fold flour mixture into sugar mixture. Fold in cooled chocolate mixture. Spread batter into prepared pan. • Bake until edges are crisp and begin to pull away from sides of pan, 35 to 38 minutes. Place pan on a wire rack, and let cool. • In a small saucepan, heat cream over medium-high heat until very hot, but not boiling. Remove from heat. Add semisweet chocolate, stirring until chocolate melts and mixture is smooth. Pour over cooled brownie. Using an offset spatula, spread chocolate ganache until smooth and even. Refrigerate brownie for several hours until chocolate ganache is firm. 27

TeaTime September/October 2018

• Using excess foil as handles, remove brownie from pan, and transfer to a cutting surface. Using a long, sharp knife, trim and discard edges from brownie, and cut brownie into 24 pieces. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Serve cold or at room temperature. KITCHEN TIP: For clean cuts, use a long sharp knife, press downward, run knife under hot water, and wipe clean between each cut.

butter, brown sugar, corn syrup, and cream to a boil together over medium heat. Boil for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Add almonds, walnuts, pecans, vanilla extract, and salt, stirring to combine. Spoon nut mixture into prepared tartlet shells, filling three-fourths full. • Bake until filling is set, approximately 10 minutes. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Caramel-Nut Tartlets

Mini Pumpkin Bundt Cakes

Makes 26

Makes 12

2 (14.1-ounce) packages refrigerated pie dough (4 sheets) ½ cup unsalted butter ½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ⁄ cup light corn syrup 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream ⁄ cup chopped almonds ⁄ cup chopped walnuts ⁄ cup chopped pecans ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup cane sugar ¾ cup unsalted butter, softened ¾ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1½ teaspoons ground ginger 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1¼ cups canned pumpkin ¼ cup whole buttermilk ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon cinnamon sugar 3 cups confectioners’ sugar ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice

• Preheat oven to 400°. Lightly spray 26 (2¼-inch) tartlet pans with cooking spray. • Working with one sheet at a time, unroll pie dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using a 2¾-inch round cutter, cut a total of 26 circles from dough sheets. Lightly press dough rounds into bottoms of tartlet pans, and stand dough up against sides of pans. Using a rolling pin, roll over top of tartlet pans to trim excess dough. Using the large end of a chopstick, press dough into indentations in sides of tartlet pans. Lightly prick bottoms with a fork. Place prepared tartlet pans on a rimmed baking sheet, and freeze for 15 minutes. • Bake tartlet shells until light golden brown, approximately 7 minutes. Let cool completely. • Reduce oven temperature to 325°. • In a medium saucepan, bring

• Preheat oven to 350°. Spray wells of 2 (6-well) swirled mini-Bundt pans* with cooking spray and sprinkle with cane sugar. • In a large bowl, beat together butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. • In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cinnamon, ginger, baking powder, allspice, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg. In a small bowl, stir


together pumpkin, buttermilk, and vanilla extract. With mixer at low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with pumpkin mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. Divide batter among wells of

prepared pans, filling three-fourths full. Sprinkle batter with cinnamon sugar. • Bake until a wooden pick inserted near centers comes out clean, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Turn out cakes onto a wire rack, and let cool completely.

• In a large bowl, whisk together confectioners’ sugar and orange juice. Dip top of cakes into glaze, turn over, and let dry on a wire rack. *We used Nordic Ware Heritage Bundtlette cake pans, available from nordicware.com. teatimemagazine.com

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Music Tea A buďŹ&#x20AC;et-style tea, complete with delicious scones, ďŹ&#x201A;avorful savories, and whimsically adorned desserts, is a refreshing conclusion to an afternoon recital or musical performance.

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Pear & Fig Scones Makes 18

3 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, divided ½ cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground ginger ⁄ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder ¾ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons cold heavy whipping cream, divided ½ cup diced peeled Anjou pears ½ cup dried Mission figs, diced

• Preheat oven to 400°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. • In a large bowl, whisk together 3 cups flour, sugar, baking powder, 31

TeaTime September/October 2018

salt, ginger, and five-spice powder. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add ¾ cup cold cream, stirring until mixture is evenly moist. (If dough seems dry, add more cream, 1 tablespoon at a time.) Working gently, bring mixture together with hands until a dough forms. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and gently knead 4 to 5 times. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough to a ¼-inch thickness. Cut dough into 4 equal pieces. • In a small bowl, stir together pears and remaining 1 tablespoon flour. • Scatter pears and figs evenly over 3 dough pieces. Stack dough pieces on top of each other. Top with remaining piece of dough. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough stack to a ½-inch thickness. Using a 2¼-inch

round cutter, cut 18 scones from dough, rerolling scraps as necessary. Brush top of scones with remaining 2 tablespoons cold cream. • Bake until a wooden pick inserted in centers comes out clean, 15 to 18 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Recommended Condiments • Devonshire Cream • Orange Marmalade

Editor’s Note: For a buffet-style tea, we recommend placing the Devonshire cream in a piping bag fitted with a large star tip and piping desired amount of cream onto each room temperature scone. Top cream with a small dollop of orange marmalade. Serve immediately.


TEA

sommelier .................................................................... Be sure to have plenty of these flavorful infusions from Simpson & Vail on hand to offer guests at this buffet-style tea. Order online at svtea.com, or by phone at 800-282-8327. SCONE COURSE: Orange Spice Black Tea SAVORIES COURSE: Anniversary Blend Tea SWEETS COURSE: Sugar Plum Fairy Rooibos Herbal Tisane


Turkey & Cranberry Chutney Tea Sandwiches Makes 18

1 cup frozen cranberries, thawed ¼ cup water 1 tablespoon fresh orange zest ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1 tablespoon finely diced shallot 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar ½ teaspoon aged balsamic vinegar ¼ teaspoon dry mustard ⁄ teaspoon kosher salt ⁄ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ cup Dijon mustard 18 thin slices white bread, frozen 18 thin slices wheat bread, frozen ½ pound deli turkey breast, thinly sliced

• In a small saucepan, combine cranberries, ¼ cup water, orange zest, orange juice, shallot, and brown sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Using a potato masher, mash cranberries. Reduce heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Add vinegar, dry mustard, salt, and pepper, stirring well. Transfer cranberry chutney to a heatproof bowl, and let cool completely. • Spread a thin layer of mustard onto bread slices. Layer half of turkey slices on mustard side of 9 white bread slices and 9 wheat bread slices. Spoon a thin layer of cranberry chutney onto turkey. Top with remaining turkey slices 33

TeaTime September/October 2018

and with remaining bread slices, mustard side down, placing white bread on white bread and wheat bread on wheat bread. • Using a serrated knife in a gentle, sawing motion, trim and discard crusts, and cut each sandwich into 2 (3x1-inch) fingers. • Serve immediately, or cover with damp paper towels, place in a covered container, and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Chicken & Bacon Tea Sandwiches Makes 18

¼ cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons crumbled cooked bacon 2 tablespoons whole buttermilk ¼ teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon ¼ teaspoon chopped fresh chives ¼ teaspoon chopped fresh dill ¼ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon onion powder ⁄ teaspoon chopped fresh parsley 18 thin slices white bread, frozen 18 thin slices wheat bread, frozen ½ pound deli chicken breast, thinly sliced ½ pound Havarti cheese, thinly sliced

• In a medium bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, cooked bacon, buttermilk, tarragon, chives, dill, garlic powder, onion powder, and parsley. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. • Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise

mixture onto each frozen bread slice. Divide chicken among mayonnaise side of 9 white bread slices and 9 wheat bread slices. Top chicken with cheese and with remaining bread slices, mayonnaise side down, placing white bread on white bread and wheat bread on wheat bread. • Using a serrated knife in a gentle, sawing motion, trim and discard crusts, and cut each sandwich into 2 (3x1-inch) fingers. • Serve immediately, or cover with damp paper towels, place in a covered container, and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Pizza Phyllo Cups Makes 35

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup diced sweet onion 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1½ cups diced cherry tomatoes 1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese 35 frozen mini phyllo cups, thawed Garnish: fresh basil leaves

• Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray. • In a small sauté pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook until fragrant, approximately 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, chopped basil, oregano, salt, and pepper, stirring well. Reduce heat, and simmer until thickened, approximately 5 minutes, stirring occasionally and mashing tomatoes with a potato masher. Transfer tomato sauce to a heatproof bowl. • Spoon 1 tablespoon tomato sauce and ½ tablespoon cheese into each phyllo cup. Place phyllo cups on prepared baking sheet. • Bake until cheese melts, approximately 3 minutes. • Garnish with basil, if desired. Serve immediately.


EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOTE: Arrange sandwiches to mimic the keys of a piano, with the white bread representing the white keys and the wheat bread representing the black ones.


White Chocolate Frosting Makes 3 cups

1 cup unsalted butter 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream ⁄ teaspoon salt 2 cups chopped white chocolate, melted according to package instructions

• In a large bowl, beat together butter and confectioners’ sugar with a mixer at medium speed until smooth and fluffy. Add cream and salt, beating until combined. Add melted white chocolate, beating until incorporated. Use immediately.

German Chocolate Cupcakes Makes 48

1⁄ cups granulated sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup canola oil ¼ cup mayonnaise 1⁄ cups all-purpose flour ⁄ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 teaspoons baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup heavy whipping cream 1 (10-ounce) package dark chocolate melting wafers,* melted according to package instructions White Chocolate Frosting (recipe follows)

• Preheat oven to 350°. Line the wells of a 48-well miniature muffin pan with mini foil baking cups. • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat together sugar, eggs, and vanilla extract at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, approximately 35

TeaTime September/October 2018

Raspberry-Almond Linzer Cookies 3 minutes. Slowy add oil, and beat for 2 minutes. Add mayonnaise, and beat for 1 minute, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl. • In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. With mixer at low speed, gradually add flour mixture to sugar mixture alternately with cream, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. Divide batter among prepared muffin cups. • Bake until a wooden pick inserted in centers comes out clean, approximately 15 minutes. Let cool completely in pan on a wire rack. • Pipe melted dark chocolate into musical notes or shapes on wax paper. Let dry. • Place White Chocolate Frosting in a piping bag fitted with an openstar tip (Ateco #822). Pipe a rosette onto each cupcake. Top each with chocolate musical notes or shapes. *We used Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate Melting Wafers.

Makes 35

2¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 cup blanched almonds ½ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ⁄ teaspoon ground cinnamon ⁄ teaspoon ground allspice 1 cup cold unsalted butter, cubed ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting Seedless raspberry jam

• In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse together flour, almonds, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and allspice until almonds are finely ground. Add cold butter and vanilla extract, pulsing until mixture comes together, 2 to 3 minutes. • Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead gently until dough comes together. Shape dough into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. • Preheat oven to 325°. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper.


• Unwrap and place dough between 2 sheets of parchment paper. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough to a ⅛-inch thickness. Remove top sheet of parchment paper. Using a 2-inch fluted round linzer cookie cutter fitted with a violin insert*, cut 35 cookies from dough, discarding violin cutouts. Remove violin insert from cookie cutter, and cut 35 plain cookies from dough. Place cookies 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets. Freeze for 15 minutes. • Bake until golden brown, 13 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely. • Sprinkle cookies with cutouts with confectioners’ sugar. Spread 2 teaspoons raspberry jam on flat side of all solid cookies. Place cookies with cutouts, flat side down, on top of jam. If desired, fill violin shape with additional raspberry jam. Serve immediately. *We used the violin-shaped cutter from the R&M Tea & Coffee Linzer Cookie Cutters set, thecuisinet.com.

Caramel-Apple Cookies Makes 55

¾ cup unsalted butter, softened 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar ⁄ cup granulated sugar 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste 2⁄ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons cornstarch ¾ teaspoon baking soda ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ¾ cup dried apples, diced ¾ cup caramel-flavored baking chips

• Preheat oven to 350°. Line 3 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl. Reduce mixer speed to medium-low. Add egg and egg yolk,

one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add vanilla bean paste, beating to combine. • In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cornstarch, baking soda, and salt. With mixer at low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating just until combined. (Do not overmix.) Add apples and caramel baking chips, stirring gently to combine. • Using a 1-tablespoon scoop, drop dough 2 inches apart onto prepared baking sheets. Using a fork, press a crisscross design onto each cookie. • Bake in batches until cookie edges are just beginning to brown, 9 to 10 minutes, rotating pans halfway through baking. (Cookies might look under baked, but this helps achieve a soft, chewy cookie.) Let cool on pans for 5 minutes. Using a thin spatula, remove from pans, and let cool completely on wire racks. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

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Teatime For

Tea lovers Convene with your closest friends to celebrate your love of the beverage with a spectacular menu of delicacies that each incorporate a diďŹ&#x20AC;erent type or blend of tea.


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sommelier .................................................................... Guests will be thrilled with these flavorful pairings for the courses of this tea-infused menu, especially when they discover take-home loose-leaf portions tucked inside FORLIFE infuser baskets that double as place cards. SCONE COURSE: Elmwood Inn Fine Teas’s Nilgiri Frost Rare Oolong elmwoodinn.com • 800-765-2139 SAVORIES COURSE: Mark T. Wendell Tea Company’s Russian Caravan Black Tea marktwendell.com • 978-635-9200 SWEETS COURSE: Paris In A Cup’s Flavors of France Signature Tea parisinacup.com • 714-538-9411


Chocolate-Chai Scones Makes 12

2 cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 tablespoon ground Ceylon BOP black tea leaves* 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed ½ cup miniature chocolate morsels 1¼ cups plus 1 tablespoon cold heavy whipping cream, divided 1 large egg

• Preheat oven to 350°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. • In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, tea leaves, salt, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, and pepper. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add chocolate morsels, stirring well. • In a small bowl, whisk together 1¼ cups cold cream and egg. Add cream mixture to flour mixture, stirring until mixture is evenly moist. (If dough seems dry, add more cream, 1 tablespoon at a time.) Working gently, bring mixture together with hands until a dough forms. • Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and gently knead 4 to 5 times. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough to a 1-inch thickness. Using a 2-inch round cutter, cut 12 scones from dough, rerolling scraps once. Place scones 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheet. Brush tops of scones with remaining 1 tablespoon cream. • Bake until edges of scones are golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in centers comes out clean, 16 to 18 minutes. Serve warm.

*BOP stands for Broken Orange Pekoe, which is a grade of tea and not a flavor. If Ceylon black tea is not available, substitute any unflavored BOP black tea leaves from another origin. We used a mortar and pestle to grind tea leaves. Recommended Condiment • Orange-Grey Marmalade (recipe follows)

Orange-Grey Marmalade Makes 4½ cups

5 pounds navel oranges (approximately 15 oranges) 3 to 3½ cups granulated sugar 1 tablespoon ground Earl Grey black tea* ½ teaspoon vanilla bean paste ½ tablespoon fresh lemon zest ½ tablespoon fresh lemon juice

• Using a vegetable peeler, cut peel from oranges in ½-inch pieces. Place in a bowl, set aside. • Place a cutting board in a rimmed baking sheet to catch orange juice. Using a sharp knife, cut tops and bottoms from oranges. Carefully cut away and discard white pith from sides of oranges, working from top to bottom and following shape of fruit. Cut along either side of orange membranes to release orange segments. Place segments and any juice caught in baking sheet in a large bowl. • Reserve seeds and membrane of an orange in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate.

• Bring a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add orange peel, cooking until peel softens, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer peel from water to a small bowl. • Using a sharp knife, cut orange peel into very thin strips (½x⁄inch). Add to orange segments. Add sugar, tea leaves, and vanilla bean paste to orange segments, stirring well. Cover and refrigerate overnight to let fruit macerate. • he next day, wrap seeds and membrane in a square of cheesecloth to create a sachet. • In a large pot, heat macerated fruit over medium-high heat. Add cheesecloth sachet. Cook, stirring frequently, until marmalade begins to thicken, approximately 40 minutes. Add lemon zest and lemon juice. Cook until marmalade registers between 218° and 222° when checked with an instant-read thermometer and appears thick and shiny, 2 to 3 minutes. • Transfer marmalade to an airtight container. Let cool to room temperature before using. *We used a mortar and pestle to grind tea leaves. MAKEAHEAD TIP: Marmalade can be made up to 2 weeks in advance, placed in an airtight container, and refrigerated until ready to use.

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Darjeeling-Poached Chicken Salad Sandwiches Makes 10

3 quarts water 2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts ¾ cup loose Second Flush Darjeeling black tea leaves* 3 teaspoons salt, divided 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ½ cup chopped celery ½ cup quartered red grapes ¼ cup diced red onion 1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh chives ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 10 thin slices whole wheat bread

• In a large stockpot, bring 3 quarts water to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add chicken, tea leaves, and 2 teaspoons salt; cover and simmer until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion of chicken registers 165°, approximately 10 minutes. Remove chicken from liquid, and let cool completely. Strain tea leaves from liquid. 41

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Deviled Tea Eggs Makes 12

• Using a sharp knife, chop and reserve 2 tablespoons steeped tea leaves. • In a large bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, parsley, 2 tablespoons reserved steeped tea leaves, and lemon juice. • Using a sharp knife, finely chop chicken. Add to mayonnaise mixture, stirring well. Add celery, grapes, onion, chives, pepper, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt, stirring well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. • Spread a thick layer of chicken salad onto 5 bread slices. Top with remaining bread slices. • Using a serrated knife in a gentle sawing motion, trim and discard crusts from all sides of sandwiches. Cut each sandwich diagonally into 2 triangles. Serve immediately, or cover with damp paper towels, place in a covered container, and refrigerate until serving time. *“Flush” refers to the plant’s new growth. If Second Flush tea is not available, another flush may be substituted.

6 large hard-cooked eggs 2½ cups water ⁄ cup gluten-free soy sauce 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1½ tablespoons Lapsang Souchong black tea leaves* ⁄ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 tablespoon minced pickled ginger ½ tablespoon pickled ginger juice 1½ teaspoons Sriracha sauce ¼ teaspoon rice vinegar ⁄ teaspoon dry mustard Garnish: pickled ginger and fresh chives

• Using the back of a spoon, gently tap eggs all over to crack shells, but don’t peel. • In a large saucepan, bring 2½ cups water, soy sauce, and brown sugar to a boil together over high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Add tea leaves and eggs; reduce heat to low. (If water does not completely cover eggs, add enough to do so.) Cover and simmer for 10 minutes; remove from heat. Uncover and let cool to room temperature.


• Transfer eggs and poaching liquid to a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (he longer the eggs stand, the deeper the flavor and the more vibrant the marbling.) • Peel eggs. Using a sharp knife, cut eggs in half lengthwise. Remove yolks from whites, and set whites aside. Place yolks in a medium bowl. Using a fork, mash until very fine. Add mayonnaise, shallot, pickled ginger and juice, Sriracha, vinegar, and dry mustard, whisking until smooth. • Transfer yolk mixture to a piping bag fitted with an open-star tip (Ateco #822). Pipe yolk mixture into egg white halves. • Garnish with pickled ginger and chives, if desired. *Lapsang Souchong is a heavily smokescented Chinese black tea.

Assam-Vegetable Tartlets Makes 6 (4-inch) tartlets

1 cup loosely packed chopped fresh basil, divided Assam Tartlet Shells (recipe follows) ½ tablespoon unsalted butter ½ tablespoon olive oil ¼ cup chopped red onion 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup shiitake mushrooms ¼ cup diced peeled sweet potato ¼ cup diced peeled carrot ¼ cup diced zucchini ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ cup crumbled goat cheese ¼ cup milk 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream 1 large egg

• Preheat oven to 375°. • Place 2 teaspoons chopped basil in each prepared Assam Tartlet Shell. • In a large skillet, heat butter and oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook until onion softens, approximately 5 minutes. Add mushrooms, sweet potato, carrot, and zucchini; cook until sweet potato is

somewhat firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper, stirring well. Remove vegetable mixture from heat. Add remaining ¾ cup basil, stirring well. • Divide vegetable mixture among prepared tartlet shells. Sprinkle each tartlet with goat cheese. • In a small bowl, whisk together milk, cream, and egg. Pour over vegetables. • Bake tartlets until shells are golden and custards are set, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Assam Tartlet Shells Makes 6 (4-inch) shells

1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons Assam CTC black tea leaves* ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed ¼ cup ice water 1 large egg 1 tablespoon room temperature water

• In a large bowl, whisk together flour, tea leaves, and salt. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until it resembles coarse crumbs. Gradually add ¼ cup ice water, stirring with a fork until dry ingredients are moistened and a dough forms.

• Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. • Preheat oven to 375°. Spray 6 (4-inch) tartlet pans with cooking spray. • Divide dough into 6 equal pieces. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough portions to a ⅛-inch thickness on a lightly floured surface. Transfer dough to prepared tartlet pans, pressing into bottom and up sides. Using large end of a chopstick, press dough into indentations in sides of tartlet pans. Using a fork, prick bottom of dough. Place tartlet pans on a rimmed baking sheet. Top each tartlet with a piece of parchment paper, letting ends extend over edges of pans. Add pie weights. • Bake for 7 minutes. Carefully remove weights and parchment paper. Bake until crust looks dry, 4 to 5 minutes more. • In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon room temperature water. Brush tartlet shells with egg mixture. Bake 2 minutes more. Let tartlet shells cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. *CTC means crush, tear, curl. Tea manufactured in this method resembles small granules similar in appearance to coffee grounds.

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Keemun Éclairs Makes 20

½ cup whole milk ¼ cup unsalted butter 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon granulated sugar ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons bread flour 2 large eggs 1 large egg yolk 1 (10-ounce) bag dark chocolate melting wafers* Keemun Pastry Cream (recipe follows)

• Preheat oven to 425°. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Draw 3 (2½-inch) lines 3 inches apart on parchment paper; turn parchment paper over. • In a medium saucepan, bring milk, butter, salt, and sugar to a boil together over medium-high heat. Reduce to heat to low; add flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until a dough forms, approximately 2 minutes. • Turn out dough into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Let cool for 1 minute. • With mixer at medium speed, add eggs and egg yolk, one at a time, beating until thoroughly incorporated. Beat for 2 minutes after adding last egg. • Transfer dough to a pastry bag fitted with a large open-star tip (Ateco #826). Pipe dough onto drawn lines on prepared baking sheets. Wet your fingertip to smooth down ends of éclairs. • Immediately reduce oven temperature to 375°, and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°, and bake 15 minutes more. Let cool completely on wire racks. • Using a sharp knife, cut each éclair in half lengthwise. • Melt dipping chocolate according to package directions. Dip top half of éclairs in melted chocolate. Let chocolate set. • Place Keemun Pastry Cream in a piping bag fitted with a large openstar tip (Ateco #826). Pipe cream 43

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onto bottom half of éclairs. Top with chocolate-dipped tops, pressing down gently. *We used Ghirardelli Dark Melting Wafers.

Keemun Pastry Cream

• In a medium bowl, whisk whipping cream until medium peaks form. Fold into cold pastry cream in two additions. Use immediately.

Paris Tea Cakes Makes 12

Makes approximately 4 cups

5 large egg yolks ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon cornstarch ½ cup granulated sugar, divided 2 cups milk 4 teaspoons loose Keemun black tea leaves 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1 (0.25-ounce) envelope unflavored gelatin ¼ cup cold water 1 cup heavy whipping cream

• In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together egg yolks, cornstarch, and ¼ cup sugar. • In a small saucepan, bring milk to a boil. Remove from heat, and add tea leaves. Cover and steep for 5 minutes. Strain milk, and return to saucepan. Add vanilla bean and remaining ¼ cup sugar. • Bring milk mixture to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low. Gradually pour milk mixture over egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Pour mixture back into saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, until pastry cream thickens. • Transfer pastry cream to a large heatproof bowl. Discard vanilla bean. Add butter, stirring until incorporated. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto surface of pastry cream. Refrigerate until cold. • In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over ¼ cup cold water. Stir together, and let stand for 2 minutes. Microwave on low until granules dissolve, approximately 20 seconds. Add to chilled pastry cream, stirring well.

1 cup unsalted butter, softened 2 cups granulated sugar 3 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2⁄ cups all-purpose flour 1½ tablespoons finely ground Harney & Sons Paris tea leaves* 2½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup crème fraîche Caramel Meringue Buttercream (recipe follows)

• Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a rimmed 15x10-inch baking sheet with baking spray with flour. Line pan with parchment paper, and spray pan again. • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together butter and sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well with each addition. Add vanilla extract, beating well. • In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, tea leaves, baking powder, and salt. With mixer at low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with crème fraîche, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. • Transfer batter to prepared baking sheet. Using an offset spatula, smooth surface of batter. • Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, approximately 15 minutes. Let cool completely in pan. Refrigerate for 10 to 15 minutes. • Turn out cake onto a piece of parchment paper. Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut out 24 rounds, discarding scraps.


• Place Caramel Meringue Buttercream in a piping bag fitted with a closed-star tip (Wilton #35). Pipe rosettes on half of cake rounds. Top with remaining cake rounds. Pipe another rosette on top. *Harney & Sons’ Paris Tea is a black tea flavored with blackcurrant and vanilla. We used a mortar and pestle to grind tea leaves.

Caramel Meringue Buttercream Makes approximately 3½ cups

3 large egg whites, at room temperature ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1½ cups unsalted butter, softened and cubed Salted Caramel Sauce (recipe follows)

• Bring a medium saucepan filled halfway with water to a simmer. • In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together by hand egg whites, granulated sugar, and brown sugar. Place mixer bowl over saucepan of simmering water. Cook, whisking occasionally, until a candy thermometer registers 155° to 160°. • Carefully return bowl to stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat egg white mixture at high speed until stiff peaks form. Reduce mixer to low speed, and beat until bowl is cool to the touch, approximately 8 minutes. Add butter, 2 tablespoons at a time, beating at medium speed until smooth, approximately 3 minutes. Add Salted Caramel Sauce, beating until smooth, approximately 3 minutes. (If buttercream breaks, beat 2 to 3 minutes more, and the emulsion will come back together.) Use immediately. MAKEAHEAD TIP: Buttercream can be placed in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Let come to room temperature before using.

Salted Caramel Sauce Makes approximately ½ cup

¼ cup heavy whipping cream, at room temperature 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons water 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and cubed 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• In a small saucepan, stir together cream and salt. Bring to a simmer over very low heat until salt dissolves. Remove from heat.

• In a medium saucepan, stir together sugar and 2 tablespoons water, being careful to not splash onto sides of pan. (Mixture should be the consistency of wet sand.) Cook over high heat. Brush down sides of pan using a pastry brush, stirring mixture to help dissolve sugar. (Do not stir once it starts to boil.) Cook until mixture is a light amber color. Remove from heat. Gradually add warm cream mixture. Add butter, a few pieces at a time, whisking to combine. Add vanilla, stirring well. Let cool completely.

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granulated sugar, whisking until stiff peaks form. Fold in almond flour mixture in thirds. • Transfer batter to a piping bag fitted with a medium round tip (Wilton #12). Pipe batter onto drawn circles on prepared baking sheets. Slam baking sheets vigorously on counter 5 to 7 times to release air bubbles. Let stand at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes to help develop the macaron’s signature crisp exterior when baked. (Macarons should feel dry to the touch and should not stick to finger.) • Preheat oven to 300°. • Bake until firm to the touch, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely on pans. • Place Coconut–White Chocolate Buttercream in a piping bag fitted with a small round tip (Wilton #10). Pipe a circle around edge of flat side of half of macarons. Place strawberry jam in a piping bag fitted with a small round tip (Wilton #10). Pipe in center of macarons. Place remaining macarons, flat side down, on top of filling.

Coconut–White Chocolate Buttercream Makes approximately 2½ cups

Matcha Macarons Makes 32

3 large egg whites 1⁄ cups confectioners’ sugar 1⁄ cups almond flour 1 teaspoon culinary matcha 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar Coconut–White Chocolate Buttercream (recipe follows) ⁄ cup strawberry jam

• Place egg whites in a medium bowl, and let stand at room temperature 45

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for exactly three hours. (Aging the egg whites in this manner is essential to creating perfect macarons.) • Line several rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Using a pencil, draw 64 (1⁄-inch) circles 2 inches apart on parchment paper; turn parchment over. • In a medium bowl, sift together confectioners’ sugar, almond flour, and matcha three times. • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites at medium-high speed until they start to foam. Gradually add

1 cup unsalted butter, softened 2 cups white chocolate morsels, melted and cooled 1 cup confectioners’ sugar ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ cup coconut milk ⁄ teaspoon coconut extract

• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter at medium speed until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Add white chocolate, beating well. Reduce mixer to low speed. Gradually add confectioners’ sugar and salt, beating until combined. Add coconut milk and coconut extract, beating until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Use immediately.


gluten-free scone

Apple of our Eye he classic combination of fruit, nuts, and cheese in these autumn-inspired scones creates a delectable pastry for a tea party. Photography by Marcy Black Simpson Recipe Development/Food Styling by Janet Lambert Tea Pairing by Trail Lodge Tea

Apple, Pecan & Cheddar Gluten-Free Scones ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, divided 1¼ cups diced peeled Granny Smith apple 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 2¼ cups gluten-free all-purpose baking flour ¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup coarsely shredded sharp Cheddar cheese ⁄ cup chopped toasted pecans 1¼ cups plus 1 tablespoon cold heavy whipping cream, divided ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

• In a medium sauté pan, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add apples and granulated sugar, stirring well. Cook, covered, stirring frequently, until apples are tender and lightly browned, approximately 5 minutes. Transfer cooked apples to a heatproof bowl. Let come to room temperature. • Preheat oven to 400°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. • In a large bowl, whisk together flour, brown sugar, baking powder, and salt. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in remaining ¼ cup cold butter until it resembles coarse

TEA

sommelier

...........................................

Makes 14

The spicy notes of a fruity chai pair beautifully with the seasonal flavors in this gluten-free scone. Order from Trail Lodge Tea online at traillodgetea.com or call 314-680-3015.

crumbs. Add cooled apples, cheese, and pecans, stirring well. • In a small bowl, stir together 1¼ cups cold cream and vanilla extract. Add cream mixture to flour mixture, stirring until mixture is evenly moist. (If dough seems dry, add more cream, 1 tablespoon at a time.) Working gently, bring mixture together with hands until a dough forms. • Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and gently knead 4 to 5 times. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough to a 1-inch thickness.

Cranberry Chai

Using a 2¼-inch round cutter, cut 14 scones from dough, rerolling scraps as necessary. Place scones 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheet. Brush tops of scones with remaining 1 tablespoon cold cream. • Bake until edges of scones are golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in centers comes out clean, approximately 13 minutes. Serve warm. Recommended Condiment • Devon Cream

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the tea diaries

The Cat That Came for Tea Text and Photograph by Nancy Lee

came from unpromising eginnings—just a bony, two-pound collection of sparse dark gray fur with black stripes. An inmate at the prerelease correctional center found the wasted kitten and eventually passed him on to my son, who happened to be working a summer internship at the center. So the little waif came home to me in a brown cardboard box, outfitted by the kindly inmate with a food bowl, a water dish, and a swing made from pipe cleaners and a rubber band. My son worked his usual wiles on me: “I know you don’t want another pet, Mom, since we already have two dogs and two cats. So we’ll just keep this one overnight, and I’ll take him to the pound tomorrow.” I watched the kitten wolfing down soft canned food mixed with milk. He had probably never had such a feast. Would he have a future if I sent him to the so-called animal shelter? Would anybody want a scrawny foundling with no obvious assets or graces? Would he even be allowed to live? he pound, indeed, I thought. his one deserved a chance. And so, Beaux (named for our Louisiana Cajun heritage), won the kitty lottery. He became our cat. Of course, he had some character defects. He jumped on counters, sprang from table to table, knocked over lamps, and sharpened his claws on the dining room chair cushions. But he also purred bountifully, rubbed on our legs, slept next to us, and was obviously grateful to be a family pet. He soon developed one outstanding, positive trait. Beaux loved hot tea. Actually, he loved teatime. When my husband and I, always avid hot tea drinkers, went to the front porch for afternoon tea, Beaux attended, too. He climbed on the bench between us, watched the ritual of adding milk and raw sugar and stirring gently. Several times he lapped the last drops in the cup when he thought we weren’t looking. Eventually he would curl up next to me, put his head on my leg, and purr peacefully through the remaining minutes of teatime. When we transferred teatime from the front porch to the more secluded back porch, Beaux still came. 47

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Sometimes he waited for us at the back door, and when I picked up the tea tray, laden with cups and saucers and a cookie or two, Beaux was ready, poised for the grand opening of the door. He sat on the arm of my chair, staring into the depths of the cups, apparently considering the merits of English afternoon tea as opposed to Irish morning brew. Eventually he conned the dogs into appearing for tea. Beaux would go out first, followed by the old chocolate Lab and the even older golden Lab. he dogs would settle on the floor. hey seemed to know that chair arms and people’s laps were Beaux’s property. When I retired a year earlier than my husband, I often had a solitary cup on the back porch. I struggled to adjust to nothingness after 45 years of teaching, and Beaux wanted to help. He sat in my husband’s chair opposite mine and fixed those mysterious greengold eyes on me as I sipped. Loneliness and boredom frequently overwhelmed me, and Beaux would climb on my lap, rub his head under my chin. I was grateful for his silent understanding. Beaux is gone now. Fifteen years is a good lifespan for a kitty, my vet told me, but it was not enough. Reminders of Beaux are everywhere in our house—old photos of him with our children; a pen-and-ink drawing of a big-eyed kitten that looks exactly like Beaux; a new stray kitty—thin, with the familiar black stripes—that sought refuge in our garage and now has food and a cozy bed there. But mostly I remember the lessons that Beaux taught us. Teatime is better with friends, whether two-legged or four-pawed. Teatime is not just about conversation. It is shared communion between companions who don’t have to talk. And some of life’s choice blessings come in a plain cardboard box. “Tea for two” may be a good title for an old song, but for my husband, Beaux, and me, “tea for three” created lasting memories.

Nancy Lee is a college English professor, pet lover, tearoom seeker, traveler, and avid tea drinker. She enjoys introducing friends (human and feline) to the joys of tea.


the tea experience

Taking Tea in

KANSAS CITY Noteworthy Midwestern tea venues Text by Britt Stafford / Photography by John O’Hagan

addling the Kansas-Missouri border, Kansas City might be considered a surprising hub for tea drinkers. he metropolis, home to the annual Midwest Tea Festival, which this year takes place September 8 and 9, offers a cache of venues for people to shop for or enjoy a lovely cuppa. From British-themed shops to a Frenchinspired tearoom to antiques stores with accompanying tearooms, here are a handful of the remarkable businesses to experience in this Midwestern city.


GREENWOOD COUNTRY TEAROOM 502 W. Main Street Greenwood, Missouri 64034 816-537-8434 greenwoodcountrytearoom.com

A wonderful surprise awaits those who venture to the antiques shopping district in Greenwood, Missouri. In addition to a plethora of places to shop, the Greenwood Country Tearoom is a charming venue with seasonal décor and an intimate feel. Brenda Barner never imagined her fond childhood memories of cooking with her mom and grandmother would someday lead her to own her own tearoom. After leaving a job at another local restaurant, Brenda, along with her daughter, Vanessa Fahle, decided to acquire the Greenwood Country Tearoom in 2013. Following a successful five-year run as tearoom owners, the motherdaughter team received word that the Greenwood Antique Mall in which the tearoom resided was set to close its doors. After much deliberation, the duo decided to rent out the building, renaming it the Greenwood Vintage Market, saving both the tearoom and the antiques store. Teatime guests can choose from approximately 25 different teas and blends to sip on while enjoying the scones, savories, and sweets served on a three-tier stand adorned with festive foliage. Since Brenda makes all the food fresh daily, she works to incorporate seasonal produce and ingredients in the tea fare, transforming the selections on a daily basis. She also ensures to have options available for customers with gluten sensitivities. For those who might crave a heartier meal, the restaurant also has a full menu of soups, salads, and sandwiches, for which reservations are not required. Greenwood Country Tearoom is open for afternoon tea and lunch Monday through Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Reservations for afternoon tea are required at least 48 hours in advance.

QUEEN’S PANTRY TEAS 510 Delaware Street Leavenworth, Kansas 66048 913-680-1899 • qptea.com

Just west of the Missouri River in Leavenworth, Kansas, in a building marked by an awning lined with several Union Jacks, Queen’s Pantry Teas offers a myriad of tea wares and teas for tea lovers of all types. Owners Kathy and Kevin Gentzler didn’t set out to own a teashop. heir 20-year dream to own a business serendipitously fell into their laps when they learned the store at which their daughter worked was closing. A somewhat facetious comment from her that they should buy Queen’s Pantry turned into a life-changing decision for the parents. “We were thinking it would be absolutely crazy,” Kathy recalls. “We thought about it, we laughed about it, we thought about it some more, and then we decided to go for it. Now seven years in, I’ve grown a lot and learned so much about tea.” 49

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Since taking over Queen’s Pantry Teas on Guy Fawkes Day, November 5, 2011, not only has Kathy’s knowledge and appreciation for the beverage grown, so has the store’s selection. Stored in glass jars, more than 160 teas that line the wall of the shop, and Kathy welcomes and encourages guests to smell the leaves to get an idea of what flavors to expect. In addition to the store’s two best-selling blends— Cinnamon Orange Spice and Carrot Cake Rooibos— Queen’s Pantry also has its own signature tea, Rachel’s Evening Blend, a decaffeinated green tea with hints of lavender and spearmint. “To have as many choices as we have is pretty unique,” Kathy comments, “particularly here in the Midwest.” Queen’s Pantry Teas is open Monday through Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.


the tea experience EMILIE’S FRENCH TEAS 8131 Wornall Road • Kansas City, Missouri 64114 816-225-9393 • emiliesfrenchteas.com

SHANG TEA 2450 Grand Boulevard Suite 106 • Kansas City, Missouri 64108 816-421-2588 shangdimsum.com

When Zehua Shang moved to the United States from China 18 years ago, he found himself craving good tea but was having a hard time finding any. “I just love tea so much. It was the only drink with flavor in my childhood,” Shang says. “We grew up having no juice, no milk, and no bottled drinks. he only thing we could drink was water or tea.” In 2005, he opened a home-based business, initially selling a few teas, teapots, and homemade jade jewelry. In 2007, Shang expanded his business by partnering with two of his teachers to own a tea farm in the Fujian mountains, and opening a tea house in downtown Kansas City. All teas sold in the shop are personally dried and sourced from farms in China owned by Shang’s close friends, such as Cai Chen Xiao and Fang Shou Long, pictured with him above. (Left to right: Xiao, Long, and Shang.) Two months of the year, he works on the farms to oversee the production of the 15 teas that will be sold in his shop. “Basically, I watch every batch of tea,” he notes. “We don’t buy teas from wholesalers. It comes from the farm managed by my friends and family members. While most tea shops can have anywhere from 60 to 80 teas, we have only 15, since we grow them.” In 2016, Shang and a friend planted a new five-acre tea farm in the Fujian province, which he says will be ready to harvest next year. According to Shang, the White Peony King is the most popular tea sold in the shop. To accompany any of the teas in the teahouse, guests can choose from five food options—many of them delicacies from Shandong Province in China, where Shang spent his childhood. hese include specialties like Chai Chicken Soup, Sprout Salad, and Moon Cakes. “We like simple; we like healthy; and we like quality,” he says. Shang Tea is open Monday through Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 6:00 p.m.

One important lesson Émilie Jackson’s world travels taught her is tea is a universal beverage that brings people together. Having lived in four different countries prior to settling down in the United States, her knowledge and experience of teas and different customs was something she wished eventually to share with others. When she moved in Kansas City to live with her husband, Alex, she decided to make her lifelong dream to own a tearoom a reality. Combining her French upbringing and love for the beverage, she opened Emilie’s French Teas. “I had been raised around tea and have always loved tea,” Émilie says. “I used to go to tearooms with my mother, and she’s the one who introduced me to tea when I was little.” Trying to recreate the memories she has of teatime with her mother, the calming and simplistic ambiance of the tearoom—or salon de thé—features French décor and is adorned with photos from Émilie and Alex’s global adventures. While the business is housed in the same building as the Centered Spirit, a cultural and holistic center Alex and Émilie operate, they designed the tearoom space to have its own identity so guests can come for a cup of Dammann Frères tea (a premium brand she imports from France) and some pastries in a casual setting. Customers can also peruse and purchase those teas. In addition to the fine service of the tearoom, Émilie offers classes on the different tea rituals practiced around the world, hoping her students will use this knowledge to relate to others. “he way I teach, tea is about relaxing, whether you come alone and have your down time, or just bring a friend,” Émilie says. “Sometimes people who don’t know each other get to meet others. It’s really about connection.” he tearoom is open Tuesday through Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

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Other Places Of Interest… HENRY’S TEAROOM 401 SE Douglas Street Lee’s Summit, Missouri 64063 816-524-0057

After perusing the vintage furniture, antiques, jewelry, collectibles, and other finds available at Henry’s Antiques, which is housed in a converted church, customers will find a delightful spot for lunch in the store’s tearoom. Each month, owner Charla Henry crafts a menu of seasonal fare, from which diners can choose an entrée, a side, a dessert, and pot of tea for $16.95 per person. Reservations are strongly encouraged for the tearoom, which is open Monday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m.

CLOCK TOWER BAKERY 7911 Santa Fe Drive Overland Park, Kansas 66204 913-948-9559 clocktowerbakery.com

Clock Tower Bakery is a must for those with a sweet tooth. Among the many impressive pastries available to enjoy is an exciting selection of macarons. he venue also serves an authentic British-style afternoon tea for $19.95 per person, which includes assorted savories, scones with clotted cream and jam, desserts, and the tea of your choice. Reservations are required for afternoon tea. he bakery is open Monday from 7:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Tuesday through Friday from 7:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. 51

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ANNA MARIE’S TEASHOP 9 W. Franklin Street Liberty, Missouri 64068 816-792-8777 • annateashop.com

An impressive selection of teas and tea wares await those who venture into the brick building that houses Anna Marie’s Teashop. he business, located just off the main square in Liberty, Missouri, has vastly evolved since owner Brenda Hedrick started selling teas more than 20 years ago. Despite owning a design studio at the time, she decided to embark in this new endeavor after learning of the numerous health benefits of the beverage. “In 1983, I started having health issues from allergies that just drove me crazy. I did some research and decided that tea was the way to go,” Brenda recalls. Originally called Anna Marie’s Gifts and Antiques, the store— named in honor of Brenda’s great-grandmother, Anna Marie Bohnet— has expanded its selection from the original 30 teas to almost 100. A family-owned business, Anna Marie’s Teashop is run by three generations of Brenda’s family. Both her daughter, Sarah Mathews, and her granddaughter, Molly Gates, work in the shop and help blend many of the teas sold. “We care so much about the people who come to visit us,” Brenda comments. “Guests receive complete service, and when people come in here, they do just relax like they’re in a different world.” In lieu of a daily tea service, Brenda hosts a monthly tea party in her circa 1913 home, just a few blocks from the shop. Festively themed for the season, each by-reservation-only event is designed to serve as a respite from everyday life and allow people the chance to connect with fellow tea enthusiasts. “Guests are coming to my home and having tea. I want them to be happy, and I want these parties to be a break from this crazy world we live in,” Brenda says. Anna Marie’s Teashop is open Tuesday through hursday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.


the tea experience TEA MARKET 329 E. 55th Street • Kansas City, Missouri 64113 816-822-9832 • teamarketonline.com

While on a personal journey toward a healthier lifestyle, Stacie Robertson discovered and fell in love with tea. She was disheartened when she couldn’t find a place to purchase quality tea in her community, but she quickly decided to turn her disappointment into her personal and professional mission by opening the Tea Market in 2002. “It has been wonderful to watch as people have developed an interest in tea and its many health benefits,” Stacie, a certified tea specialist and holistic health coach, remarks. A special line of teas Stacie created, which she calls her Functional Wellness Teas, is part of the impressive assemblage of more than 100 teas available for purchase at Tea Market. “hey’re kind of my ‘first aid kit’ of teas,” she says. he Tea Market’s tea bar makes it easy for customers to stop in and get a cup to go. One of Stacie’s favorites, which she refers to as the “gateway drug of green tea,” is Berry Wellness, a green tea blended with several superfood berries. Rather than sell antique china teapots and teawares, Stacie prefers to offer pieces she considers more functional to the overall tea-drinking experience. She also offers tea-education classes and private consultations to help people learn how to find and brew the perfect tea for each individual. “I want to sell something that people pull out every day and enhances their leaf life, making it simple, easy, and doable,” Stacie explains. “I don’t want people to buy tea and have it sit on a shelf because they think it’s too much trouble. I always say that the healthiest tea is the one you love to drink, because if you don’t love it, you won’t drink it.” Customers can visit Tea Market Monday through hursday and Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., and Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

BRITS 929 Massachusetts Street • Lawrence, Kansas 66044 785-843-2288 • britsusa.com

When childhood friends Sally Helm and Susie Pryor initially opened their store in 1995, they approached it as a mystery book store with some British paraphernalia. Over the past 20 years, they have watched the appropriately named Brits morph into an Anglophile’s dream as a full-blown British goods market. he Lawrence, Kansas, shop is a wonderful destination for those with an enthusiasm for tea and all things British. “My thought was always, you can’t go a day without being touched by something British; even things you might not think,” Sally comments. “We weren’t just looking for the British market when we started. I thought this had appeal to everyone. Its food,

tea, biscuits . . . everyday items I think people would be interested in.” he great selection of fare and treats at Brits includes an ample collection of British and Irish teas. With brands such as Taylors of Harrogate, Tregothnan, Twinings, and Ahmad, customers can easily stock up on some of their favorite British teas, as well as different sweets and condiments that are a great accompaniment for teatime. For those who can’t make the journey to the small Kansas town, a majority of the products sold in-store are also available online. “[Customers] are going to find everything from the tea itself to how they can drink it to food to enjoy with it,” Sally says. “Along with football [soccer] scarves.” Brits is open Monday through Wednesday and Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., hursday from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. teatimemagazine.com

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15

Accoutrements for preparing better tea Text by Lorna Reeves Photography by John O'Hagan

While teapots and cups and saucers are, for many people, the stars of the table at teatime, the right equipage to achieve a successful infusion time after time is, arguably, even more important. he following 15 tools are suitable for a variety of tea-steeping styles, purposes, and aesthetics—from avid tea tasting and evaluating to casual sipping in a relaxed setting to enjoying an elegant afternoon tea. Whatever your preference for taking tea, this assemblage of accoutrements in an array of sizes, as well as functions, is sure to please. he tools in this collection range from equipment to make sure your water is at the correct temperature according to the type of tea you’re preparing, to things that will enable you to more accurately steep it. For information on how to purchase these items, turn to “Resources for Readers” on page 63.

PRESENTS

TEA ROOMS

SETTINGS . . FOOD . CHINA TABLE

Celebrating YEARS

Fall 2003

teatimemagazine.com

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TeaTime

15 NOTABLE TEA ACCOUTREMENTS

Programmable Tea Kettle An electric kettle that can be programmed to heat water to a temperature ideally suited for the type of tea being prepared is a must. Some have predetermined settings, such as this example from Salton (left) that can switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius. Others, like Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Choice (right), allow the user to select the perfect temperature.

Scale Because loose-leaf tea and tisanes come in a variety of shapes and sizes, weighing them is the most reliable method of portioning them for personal consumption, professional evaluation, or retail sale. Select a small, pocket-size, digital scale like this one that registers weight in grams.

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TeaTime September/October 2018

Thermometer If you want to be sure your hot water is at the perfect temperature for your tea leaves, check it with an instantread thermometer. Having such a tool on hand will keep you from scalding delicate teas, such as Japanese green teas, with water above the recommended temperature and from producing weak infusions from water that is below it.

Cupping Set Professional tasters use cupping sets (sometimes called tasting sets) to evaluate teas for purchase, and serious students of tea also ďŹ nd them helpful. hese sets consist of lidded steeping cups that have a small opening opposite the handle through which the infused tea liquor can be poured into the tasting cups. he lid doubles as a small dish to hold the wet leaves for inspection.


15 NOTABLE TEA ACCOUTREMENTS

Tea-Measuring Spoon For tea drinkers who prefer to have a utensil to define the amount of dry leaf needed per cup of hot water, there is a measuring spoon that can do the job for kinds such as CTC and BOP black teas that have small bits. Such spoons work well with balled oolongs but not with the larger twisted ones.

Paper Filter Bag

Steep loose-leaf tea virtually anywhere with disposable, biodegradable paper filter bags. Drawstring ones, like these from Art of Tea, cinch to keep the tea contained during transport or steeping. T-sac, whose filters have a flap that can be tucked in, makes filters in four sizes.

TeaTime

Infuser Basket Gone are the days when drinking loose-leaf tea meant settling for over-steeped infusions and a messy cleanup. Infuser baskets, such as these excellent finemesh examples from FORLIFE, come in a variety of sizes suitable for use in mugs, teapots, or pitchers. heir travel infuser has sturdy folding handles and a clear carrying case.

Tea Steeper

BPA-free plastic tea makers with a built-in mesh strainer in the base, like the Magic II Tea Maker, are a great way to watch the leaves as they steep. When the right amount of time has elapsed for the ideal infusion, simply set the steeper on top of an appropriately sized mug or teacup to trigger the bottom release valve.

teatimemagazine.com

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15 NOTABLE TEA ACCOUTREMENTS

Timer A digital timer might well be one of the most underappreciated tools for tea lovers, but it is a great necessity. While there are pretty sand-filled timers that quietly count off the appropriate steeping time, they fail to announce adequately that the tea is ready to those who might have become distracted with conversation or other activities.

Silicone Tea Bag Buddy For those who enjoy having tea away from home, Primula offers a clever silicone gadget that solves many challenges at once. he lightweight and portble Tea Bag Buddy functions as a lid to keep the tea hot while it infuses, as a clip to keep the teabag’s string from falling into the liquid, and as a holder for the spent teabag. 57

TeaTime September/October 2018

Tea Bag Holder When offering teatime guests an array of tea bags from which to select their personal favorite, it is always thoughtful to provide a place to deposit the used sachets. Petite teapot-shaped holders, such as these colorful options from Le Creuset, keep the table tidy and make nice party favors as well.

Tea Strainer Some tea lovers still prefer to place their leaves directly in the teapot to steep. Although the infusion can become over-steeped if not promptly decanted, there is something to be said about the pageantry of straining tea into cups, especially if decorative accoutrements such as these from Simpson & Vail (left) and Royal Albert (right) are used.


15 NOTABLE TEA ACCOUTREMENTS

Drip Catcher

he spouts of even the best teapots can drip occasionally. To keep from burning your teatime guests or from staining pretty linens, use a drip catcher on the teapot’s spout. Choose ones that will remain securely in place so as to not fall into anyone’s teacup, which would certainly cause a bigger mess than a drip would.

TeaTime

Tea Cozies

One of the best ways to keep tea hot without peril to the infusion, the pot, or the person is to use a tea cozy, such as these examples by histledown, which are available in a variety of fabrics. he dome style that sits on the table and completely covers the vessel works well, as do ones that wrap around the teapot and serve as a hot pad to protect the table.

Welcome to the World of Fine Tea

Electric Travel Kettle

While most hotels have in-room coffee makers, they often don’t have the same for tea. Instead of doing without your favorite cuppa, opt for a sturdy .5-liter boiler by Bonavita (right) or the collapsible .5-quart one by Gourmia. Because these only boil water, you’ll need to pack a thermometer, too, or only take teas that can handle that temperature.

Premium Teas • Tea Room Tea Library • Tea Store free Shipping on Orders over $49

www.GlobalTeaMart.com 844-208-2337 teatimemagazine.com

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Babington’s An English tearoom with Italian flair Text by Barbara Gulley / Images Courtesy of Babington’s

(Below, left to right) Cousins Rory Bruce and Chiara Bedini are co-owners and managers of the tearoom their greatgrandmother Isabel Cargill founded in 1894.

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ted in a bustling, tony area of Rome, Italy, at the e of the Spanish Steps and just a short distance from Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon, Babington’s Tea Room holds its own as an unexpected treasure. he 125-year-old tearoom is still run by descendants of the original co-founder, Isabel Cargill. Today, cousins Chiara Bedini and Rory Bruce, whose family heritage is a mix of English and Italian, much like the tearoom itself, are co-owners and managers. Babington’s light-hued stone façade blends seamlessly into the style of its surroundings. However, its stone-etched “tea room” sign and paneled doors with brass knobs hint at what’s inside—a decidedly English-style tearoom with influences from its adopted environment. A true British import, Babington’s was established in 1893 by two single women from England, Isabel Cargill and Anna Maria Babington. Isabel was a jilted bride, who, after being abandoned at the altar, decided to seek adventure in Rome. At the time, it was considered unacceptable for a young woman to travel alone, so she found a kindred spirit in Anna Maria Babington, several years older, but eager for adventure.


he expats became quick friends and set up a tearoom that appealed to a growing English population in Rome. Here visitors could indulge in their favorite beverage while reading the newspapers and also enjoy a new luxury of the time, indoor bathrooms. he tearoom was so successful that, within a year, Isabel and Anna Maria moved their venue to its current, prestigious location at the base of the Spanish Steps. It was decorated in the latest fashion and became a favorite meeting place for both men and women. Although the tearoom miraculously survived the economic devastation of World War I, it did take a toll on Anna Maria. In the 1920s, she moved to Switzerland, hoping to improve her health, but she died of a heart attack in 1929. he management of Babington’s then fell to Isabel’s family exclusively. Isabel’s second trip to the altar had much happier results than the first. She married artist Giuseppe da Pozzo, who painted the portraits of Isabel and Anna Maria that still hang in the tearoom. He and Isabel had a daughter, Dorothy. While Isabel focused on family life, her sister, Annie renovated the tearoom, making it once again a fashionable place for people to gather. Dorothy eventually joined her aunt in managing the popular venue. he threats of another world war hit the tearoom again in the 1930s. However, Babington’s found a way to persevere. While many non-Italian businesses left Rome with the rise of fascism, Babington’s was still a popular establishment for not only the high-ranking members of the regime but for the opposition as well. Government officials would have their tea and scones in the front of the tearoom, and the anti-fascists would meet in the back with a designated escape door through the kitchen. During the confl ict, Dorothy moved her mother and her own children to northern Italy, where Isabel died in 1944. Not knowing how Babington’s would fare during the war, Dorothy was astounded to find upon her return to Rome that the tearoom had been kept alive by three staff members. Dorothy soon took to managing the tearoom again and expanded the menu to include breakfast and lunch offerings. Her children took part in creating new items, and her son, Valerio, designed the Babington’s cat logo. (here had always been a resident cat by the name of Mascherino in the tearoom.) Still family-run, Babington’s is now managed by Isabel’s great-grandchildren, Chiara and Rory. he main room in Babington’s is comfortable elegance. Paneled wainscoting of the cream-colored walls frames black-and-white pictures of Rome. he room is anchored by a wood floor laid out in a herringbone pattern. Dark wooden tables are set with chocolatecolored place mats with burgundy napkins peeking out

Isabel Cargill’s husband, Giuseppe da Pozzo, painted these portraits of her (left) and of the other co-founder of the tearoom, Anna Maria Babington (above).

of turquoise teacups. Fresh flowers and crystal glasses also feature in the tablescape. With light green walls and striped and flowered cushions on the chairs and benches, the back rooms of Babington’s are more whimsical. It’s in this area where the guest book lies with its pages that read like headlines from Variety, featuring notes and autographs from stars such as Audrey Hepburn and Tony Curtis. Not surprisingly, it is still a special attraction for royalty and celebrities, as the tearoom will not preannounce any of their visits to the press. Aside from the impressive guest list and décor, it’s the delicious and beautifully plated menu items that continue to please all patrons. Afternoon tea fare of scones, tea sandwiches, and pastries are served on a three-tiered tray that holds matching turquoise plates. Rich whipped cream and strawberry jam accompany the scones. Loose-leaf tea is served from gleaming silver pots that don paper labels indicating the choice of tea, which are all Babington’s signature blends. here is a gift shop at the tearoom entrance, where the branded teas and accoutrements can be purchased. In honor of its quasquicentennial, Babington’s offers a limited-edition commemorative tea as well as a variety of anniversarythemed tea accessories. For 125 years, Babington’s has endured and enchanted, always retaining its own brand of elegance and taste—an English tearoom with Italian flare. .........................................................................................................

Visit Babington’s at Piazza di Spagna, 23, 00187 Rome, Italy. For more information, go to babingtons.com, or ring +39 06 6786027. Barbara Gulley, and her daughter, Rachel, operate Barb’s Tea Service, barbsteaservice.com, a Michiganbased tea education business. hey visited Babington’s on a recent trip to Italy. teatimemagazine.com

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Afternoon Tea at the

Russian Tea Room WITH ALI EWOLDT Getting to know the Broadway star Text by Roger Sands / Photography by Kristine Foley

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TeaTime September/October 2018

’m a singer—I’m almost required to love tea,” says Ali Ewoldt, who first discovered the pleasures of afternoon tea while traveling with the national production of Les Misérables. “We were touring in major cities throughout the country, and members of the cast would often find a tearoom for afternoon tea,” she recalls. “Having tea with each other, relaxing and getting to know one another better, was really special.” New York City’s iconic Russian Tea Room, whose venerable history dates back to 1927, provides a perfect setting for TeaTime to get to know Ali, too. Red leather banquettes and shiny bronze samovars dominate the tearoom’s radiant décor. Afternoon tea here is an idyllic way to socialize—and perhaps spot a few celebrities, such as Ali—before attending a Broadway play, sightseeing, or shopping. Since its founding by the Russian Imperial Ballet, the Russian Tea Room has been an exclusive enclave where actors, writers, and politicians gather. After selecting a rooibos chai (a South African red bush with Indian spices) to drink from an array of six teas, Ali chooses from a variety of delectable vegetarian and seafood finger sandwiches that included shrimp salad with rémoulade, smoked Scottish salmon with chive cream cheese, and artichoke with red pepper, sun-dried tomato, and goat cheese. Other scrumptious sandwiches and blinis with caviar, such Siberian osetra,


Russian osetra, hackleback, and paddlefish, are available as well. Guests can also indulge in decadent desserts, including assorted seasonal scones, petits fours, and a red velvet cupcake with luscious cream cheese icing. Currently staring on Broadway as Christine in Andrew Lloyd Webber’s classic Phantom of the Opera, Ali believes tea has a medicinal effect on her vocal cords, which are often tired from the demands of singing in a Broadway show, and tries to sip a cup of tea before each performance. “I love chai and most green teas, especially if they’re infused with ginger, which supposedly possesses anti-inflammatory qualities. I also enjoy any type of peppermint tea,” she shares. As a child growing up in Westchester County, not far from New York City, she would often come into the city with her parents to see a play. She fell in love with theater and musical theater at age 10 and began acting in high school. he decision to make acting a career, however, came much later as she chose to focus on academics, completing a degree in psychology at Yale University in an attempt to find another career she was similarly passionate about. When Ali secured her role in Phantom in 2016, she became the first Asian-American to play Christine on Broadway in the production’s 30-year history. TeaTime: What’s it like starring in a musical that has become the longest running show in Broadway history? ALI: Phantom is synonymous with Broadway, so it’s like a dream come true for me. I can still remember the exact seat I sat in to see Phantom when I was young, so in some ways it’s very surreal. TeaTime: What’s the camaraderie like between cast members? ALI: We share an incredible friendship. here’s a unique combination of cast members who have been with the show for a long time along with newer actors, and we all get along very nicely.

A Tea Affair

Tearoom, Fine Teas & Accessories

8 Sturgis Lane - Lititz, PA 17543

717-627-1776 teaaffair1776@windstream.net www.ateaaffairlititz.com Tea Shop Hours: 10:00am - 5:00pm Tea Room Hours: 11:30am - 3:30pm We accept reservations for our Tea Room and also for Bridal Showers, Baby Showers, and Birthday Parties. Reservations Preferred Walk-In When Available

TeaTime: Describe some of the challenges you face being part of such an intricate, lavish production. ALI: Of course, there are the vocal challenges that come with singing so many songs five or six days a week. I have to make sure that I take care of my voice. Also, the beautiful costumes are very heavy, and there are several costume changes, so that can get a little tricky on occasion. he timing backstage needs to be perfect. TeaTime: What’s most rewarding about being part of Phantom? ALI: To see so many young people in the audience is very rewarding because you realize that for some of these youngsters, this experience can open up a whole new world for them. Some may see the Phantom as an outsider of sorts, and perhaps they can relate to that in a positive way. Also, I love getting to meet some of the fans. People will wait at the side door of the theater after the show to tell me about how much the experience meant to them. hat is very rewarding. TeaTime: Are you involved with any other theater projects? ALI: I’m currently working on a lab of the musical he Secret Garden, which actually includes a line about tea and scones, and I volunteer for BroadwayCon, a yearly event that introduces young people to the theater. ..............................................................................................................................................

For more information about seeing Ali Ewoldt in The Phantom of the Opera at New York City’s Majestic heatre (245 West 44th Street), go to thephantom oftheopera.com. To book a table for afternoon at the Russian Tea Room (150 West 57th Street), go to russiantearoomnyc.com or call 212-581-7100. teatimemagazine.com

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Tearoom Directory

resources for readers

North Carolina

Lady Bedford’s Tea Parlour & Gift Shoppe Celebrating 10 Years!

TITLE PAGE Page 2: Mottahedeh Tobacco Leaf teapot ($455), 800-443-8225, mottahedeh.com.

Relax with friends at breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea! Open Tuesday - Saturday Breakfast 8am - 10:30am Lunch & Afternoon Tea 11am - 4pm Reservations Recommended

21 Chinquapin Road Village of Pinehurst 910-255-0100 www.ladybedfords.com

South Carolina

Planning a trip in the near future? Visit these lovely tea locales.

Laura’s TEA ROOM

Come pick a teacup and enjoy a relaxing high tea experience! Serving high tea Tuesday-Saturday Café open 11-3 Tea Room open 11-1:30 (reservations required for Tea Room) Gift Shop open 10-4 Located in Historic Ridgeway, SC

803.337.8594 · 105 Palmer Street

www.laurastearoom.com tearoom@truvista.net

A Garden Comes To Life! Paintings • Prints • Notecards

Save 15% use code: teatimegifts New 8”x 8” paintings on wood panels Timeless, Elegant Art For Your Home Or Inspired Gift Giving

Shop online: www.lauraleeder.com Shop by phone: 250-254-0083

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COVER Royal Crown Derby Olde Avesbury footed teacup and saucer set ($65.95) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223, replacements.com. Royal Crown Derby Gold Aves teapot ($775) from Devine Corp, 732-751-0500, devinecorp .net. Farmhouse Plaid napkins ($4.95) from Pier 1, 817-252-6300, pier1.com.

TeaTime September/October 2018

MASTHEAD Page 5: Alfred Meakin Medway Décor (Dark Brown) teacup and saucer set ($11.99) and sugar bowl with lid ($22.49) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223, replacements.com. THE COMPLETE TABLE: EFFLORESCENT AUTUMN Pages 19–20: Alfred Meakin Medway Décor (dark brown) bread and butter plate ($8.99), dinner plate ($29.99), salad plate ($13.99), teacup and saucer set ($11.99), teapot ($329.95), creamer ($41.99), sugar bowl with lid ($22.49), and handled cake plate ($109.95) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223, replacements.com. [Rustic Splendor] Oneida Coronation knife ($7.99), salad fork ($13.99), teaspoon ($7.99), and butter spreader ($9.99) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223, replacements.com. Green antiqued wood chargers ($19.95) from Pier 1, 817-252-6300, pier1 .com. Reactive Glaze Muir dinner plate ($7.99); Ivory linen napkin ($5.99) from World Market, 877-967-5362, worldmarket.com. Bodrum Garland Brown napkin rings set of 4 ($34) from Bromberg’s, 205-871-3276, brombergs.com. Table runner from private collection. Floral centerpiece by FlowerBuds, 205-970-3223, flowerbudsfloristbirmingham.com. [Dappled Delight] Gien Songe dinner plate ($55) from Bromberg’s, 205-871-3276, brombergs.com. Oneida Arbor Rose-True Rose knife ($5.99), salad fork ($5.99), and teaspoon ($7.99) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223, replace ments.com. Goblet and antique linen from private collection. [Brown Beauty] Gien Filets Taupe dinner plate ($45); BIA Cordon Bleu-Capdeco Ellipse Wood 5-piece flatware set ($150.50) from Bromberg’s, 205-871-3276, brombergs.com. Linens from private collection. HARVEST TEA Pages 21–28: Royal Crown Derby Olde Avesbury footed teacup and saucer set ($65.95), creamer ($69.95), sugar bowl with lid ($227.95), square handled cake plate ($129.95), handled cake/ pastry plate ($119.95), and 16-inch oval platter ($360.95); International Silver Joan of Arc butter spreader ($15.99), knife ($30.39), salad fork ($39.99), and teaspoon ($29.99); Vietri Rufolo Gold cake plate (price not available) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223, replace ments.com. Royal Crown Derby Olde Avesbury dinner plate ($135); Royal Crown Derby Gold Aves bread and butter plate ($110), salad plate ($155), creamer ($260), sugar bowl with lid ($440), round platter ($850), and teapot ($775) from Devine Corp, 732-751-0500, devinecorp.net. Farmhouse Plaid napkins ($4.95) from Pier 1, 817-252-6300, pier1.com. Lenox Laurel cranberry table runner ($16.99) from HomeGoods, 800-888-0776, homegoods.com. Floral pumpkin centerpiece by FlowerBuds, 205-970-3223, flowerbudsfloristbirmingham .com. Location courtesy of Scotch Homes at Willow Branch, Chelsea, AL 35043, 205-9803477, scotchhomes.com.

MUSIC TEA Pages 29–36: Royal Worcester Padua salad plate ($15.99), teacup and saucer set ($7.99), teapot ($199.95), creamer ($41.99), sugar bowl with lid ($99.95), and 15-inch oval platter ($169.95); Gorham English Gadroon knife ($39.99), salad fork ($49.99), and teaspoon ($39.99); Elovitz, Albert EAZ1 piano plate ($13.99) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-7375223, replacements.com. 3-tiered rectangle server ($30) from Pier 1, 817-252-6300, pier1 .com. Everyday White teapot ($14.99) from Bed, Bath & Beyond, 800-462-3966, bedbath andbeyond.com. 3-tiered plate stand, cake stand, silver tray, and flower vase from private collection. TEATIME FOR TEA LOVERS Pages 37–45: Mottahedeh Tobacco Leaf dinner plate ($175), dessert plate ($145), bread and butter plate ($95), teacup and saucer set ($160), teapot ($455), creamer ($165), covered sugar bowl ($240), large leaf tray ($385), and octagonal tray ($260) from Mottahedeh, 800-443-8225, mottahedeh.com. Reed & Barton Burgundy sterling knife ($25.99), salad fork ($69.95), teaspoon ($44.99), and butter spreader ($21.59) from Replacements, Ltd., 800-737-5223, replacements.com. Oval platter with purple trim ($12.99); white sandwich tray ($7.99); white teapot for centerpiece ($12.99) from HomeGoods, 800-888-0776, homegoods .com. Velvet Trim napkins ($7.49 for set of 4) from Bed, Bath & Beyond, 800-462-3966, bedbathandbeyond.com. Hook Handle Tea Infuser & Dish Set ($14.50) from FORLIFE Design, 310-638-6386, forlifedesign.com. 3-tiered stand, tablecloth, and napkin rings from private collection. Flower arrangement by FlowerBuds, 205-970-3223, flowerbudsflorist birmingham.com. TEATIME 15 Page 55: Variable Temperature kettle ($49.99) from Salton, salton.com. SmartKettle ($99.99) from Chef’s Choice, 800-342-3255, chefschoice .com. Update THP-220 1-inch dial pocket thermometer ($2.44) from Katom Restaurant Supply, Inc., 888-574-3104, katom.com. ES-600 pocket scale ($15.25) from American Weigh Scales, 866-643-3444, scales.net. Tasting Set ($12) from Adagio, adagio.com. Page 56: Tea scoop ($3.85), T-sac Paper Tea Filters package of 100 ($4.90–$5.70), and Magic II Teafilter ($26.50) from Simpson & Vail, 800-282-8327, svtea.com. One-cup infuser with lid ($18.40), Capsule infuser ($25.50), and folding handle tea infuser with carrying case ($15) from FORLIFE, 310-638-6386, forlifedesign.com. Art of Tea filter bags package of 100 ($9) from Art of Tea, 8772688327, artoftea.com. Page 57: Digi Tea Timer ($9.50) from Simpson & Vail, 800282-8327, svtea.com. Tea bag holder ($9 each) from Le Creuset, 877-273-8738, lecreuset.com. Tea Bag Buddy ($5.99) from Primula, 561-3533900, primulaproducts.com. Royal Albert New Country Roses White tea strainer ($19.99) from Royal Albert, 877-720-3488, royalalbert.com. English tea strainer with drip cup ($5) from Stash Tea, 800-800-8327, stashtea.com. Page 58: Lemon drip catcher ($4.90) from Simpson & Vail, 800-282-8327, svtea.com. histledown Prairie Rose wrap around tea cozy ($20.99 for 2 cup) and Royal Bouquet classic tea cozy ($27.29) from English Tea Store, 877-7342458, englishteastore.com. GK320 travel foldable electric kettle ($34.99) from Gourmia, 888-552-0033, gourmia.com. 0.5 Liter Mini Kettle ($39.99) from Bonavita, 855-664-1252, bonavitaworld.com.


recipe index

Fillings, Frosting & Toppings Caramel Meringue Buttercream 44 Coconut–White Chocolate Buttercream 45 Keemun Pastry Cream 43 Orange-Grey Marmalade 40 Salted Caramel Sauce 44 White Chocolate Frosting 35

Savories Assam Tartlet Shells 42 Assam-Vegetable Tartlets 42 Bacon-Artichoke Canapés 25 Brisket and Slaw Roulades 25 Chicken & Bacon Tea Sandwiches 33 Darjeeling-Poached Chicken Salad Sandwiches 41 Deviled Tea Eggs 41 Honey, hyme, and Goat Cheese Phyllo Cups 25 Pizza Phyllo Cups 33

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TeaTime September/October 2018

advertisers’ index Turkey & Cranberry Chutney Tea Sandwiches 33

Scones Apple, Pecan & Cheddar Gluten-Free Scones 46 Apple-Cranberry Scones 23 Chocolate-Chai Scones 40 Pear & Fig Scones 31

Sweets Caramel-Apple Cookies 36 Caramel-Nut Tartlets 27 Chocolate-Apricot Brownie Bars 27 German Chocolate Cupcakes 35 Keemun Éclairs 43 Matcha Macarons 45 Mini Pumpkin Bundt Cakes 27 Paris Tea Cakes 43 Raspberry-Almond Linzer Cookies 35 EDITOR’S NOTE: Recipe titles shown in gold are gluten-free, provided gluten-free versions of processed ingredients (such as flours, prepared meats, sauces, extracts, and stocks) are used.

A Tea Affair .............................................62 Bradford Exchange, he ................... 18, 53 Domino Sugar .....................................9, 10 Erika’s Tearoom ......................................14 Global Tea Mart ......................................58 Grandma Rae ..........................................14 Gravity Defyer ........................................64 Jane Pettigrew’s World of Tea .....................4 Lady Bedford’s Tea Parlour .....................63 Laura’s Tea Room ....................................63 Laura Leeder ...........................................63 Mark T. Wendell Tea Company ..............12 Mid-Atlantic Tea Business Association ..16 Natchitoches Conventions and Visitors Bureau ...................................................5 Northwest Tea Festival ...........................12 Paris In A Cup ........................................14 Pennsylvania Tea Festival .......................12 Polite Society School of Etiquette ............5 Rada Cutlery ...........................................65 Raffinato Italy .........................................66 Ross Simons ..............................................8 Simpson & Vail, Inc. ...............................67 Tea 101 Masterclass................................62 Tea Parties Around the World .....................6 hyme-out Tea Parties ............................14 Trail Lodge Tea........................................14 World Tea Academy ..................................1


Profile for K.ILHAM

TeaTime septembre-octobre 2018  

TeaTime septembre-octobre 2018  

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