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PASTRY & BAKING ASIA PACIFIC

A S I A

P A C I F I C Volume 3 Issue 4 2007

Master Baker Kim Young Mo Bambi Sy Gobio Hofex 2007 VOLUME 3 ISSUE 4 2007 KDN PPS 1641/2/2008 MICA (P) 149/09/2006

S$5.50 / RM10 ISSN 1793-2645

WWW.

PASTRYA P

.COM


Letter From The Editor

The Growth of an Industry As a subset of “dessert”, the craft of pastry and artisan baking is enjoying exponential growth in Asia Pacific. Regional driver of creativity and newly crowned, world pastry power, Japan has redefined the industry and solidified its standing, next to France, as the global benchmark. Asia Pacific also boasts world class professionals from Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan and an up-and-coming China who continually score well on the international stage and whose professional dessert communities are organized and active. In our capacity as the regional media for this movement, Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific is happy to report this advancement in skills, priority and focus is not confined to the aforementioned countries. India, for one, is moving at warp speed towards embracing a more “Western” approach to dessert. Then you have Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand, all filled with extreme creativity and raw culinary talent flexing their minds and whisks. Within the pages of this issue, the Philippines is well represented and once again, it is easy to discern a community wide commitment toward skills improvement and innovative interpretation. Country by country Asia Pacific continues to grow, adapt and leave its own mark on the craft of pastry and baking. There is no stopping this gastronomic juggernaut and Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific is proud to provide you, our readers, with a front row seat.

Regards, Joseph Marcionette Editor-in-Chief Email: joem@pastryap.com

产业之

崛起

作为甜点产业的一部分,西点制作及艺术烘焙正在亚太地区获得指数级增长。日 本,这个新加冕的世界西点强国掀起了该地区的创意狂潮,并重新定义了行业内 涵,从而成为仅次于法国的全球又一西点中心。 来自新加坡,韩国,台湾及新兴西点大国中国的世界级人才均汇集于亚太地 区,他们在全球舞台上连创佳绩,各种甜点专业团体活动也颇为活跃。 《亚太西点与烘焙》作为一本报道业内动态的区域性媒体非常希望能够报道 业内技艺新高地,而且,我们关注的重点和焦点也并不囿于以上几个国家。比如 印度就正以匪夷所思的速度接纳西式甜点技艺。印度尼西亚,马来西亚和泰国也 同样如此**这些国家的甜点极富创意,蕴含自然天成的烹饪天赋,无不显示了大 厨们的智慧及颇为了得的勺上功夫。 本期杂志将为大家集中展现菲律宾的风采。我们同样可以一眼看出这国家的 全体美食同仁对于发展专业技艺,对美食进行全新诠释的执著。 亚太地区的烘焙产业正在不断成长,积极融入地方特色,频频在世界烘焙舞 台上崭露头角。面对这场势不可挡的烹饪狂潮,《亚洲西点与烘焙》杂志将带领 我们的读者亲临前线,一睹盛况。

祝好, Joseph Marcionette 编辑

2 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


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22.6.2007 14:02:24 Uhr


astry&bakin g P A S I A

P A C I F I C

House Specials 30

6

30

Off The Wire

Chef in Focus

The latest news, happenings, events and product updates for

Bambi Sy Gobio’s innovation and her expansion on classic pastry has earned this chef high marks and a great deal of notoriety among her peers and the dessert crazy crowds of Manila.

the well informed professional.

12 Sugar Arts 40

The incomparable Ewald Notter provides step-by-step instruction

40

and insight into his passion and craft.

Korean Bakers In conjunction with the 7,000 member Korean Bakers Association, we explore the highest level of baking creativity associated with abundant local ingredients found in South Korea.

16 Regional Showcase Join P&B AP on a tour of Asia Pacific as we visit with and showcase talented professionals who share their favorite products and recipes 52

52

Bakery in Focus Master Baker Kim Young Mo exemplifies both professional and personal success and his flagship bakery that bears his name is testament to his dedication and life long passion.

4 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

64 Baking Fundamentals U.S. Wheat Associates’ Roy Chung is back and focuses on the ingredients that go into yeast leavened laminated dough.


astry&bakin g P A S I A

P A C I F I C

Published by

Synergy1 Group, Pte Ltd Editor-in-chief / Publisher Joseph Marcionette Creative Director Lisa Dinges Senior Editor Campbell Ross Walker

32 Maxwell Road #03-07 White House Singapore 069115

www.PastryAP.com Email: Info@PastryAP.com

Endorsed by:

If your job is to create beautiful chocolate... Let another professional take care of the tempering!

Chocovision makes the best tempering machine! Saves me a lot time with no waste. A pastry chef’s best friend.!

INTERBAKE CHINA

Pang Kok Keong Executive Pastry Chef Canele Patisserie Chocolaterie

Hong Kong Bakery And Confectionery Association

Made in the USA

www.Chocovision.com Looking for Distributors email ian@chocovision.com


Off The Wire

Happenings

HOFEX 2007 WOWS! HOFEX 2007 轰动!

O

ne of Asia’s largest food and hotel tradeshows, HOFEX 2007 wrapped up this year’s event the week of May 16th 2007 to all around acclamations from exhibitors, visitors and supporting organizations. With an opening ceremony highlighted by a rousing live band, Scottish pipers and over 200 industry VIPs, this magnificent culinary spectacle was officiated by Mr Stephen Ip, GBS, JP, Secretary for Economic Development and Labour of the HKSAR Government, Mr James Tien, GBS, JP, Chairman of the Hong Kong Tourism Board, Mr Mark Lettenbichler, Chairman of the Hong Kong Hotels Association and Mr Daniel Cheung, General Manager of Hong Kong Exhibition Services Limited – Organiser of HOFEX 2007.

洲规模最大的食品及酒店业展销会**2007年度亚洲 国际食品及饮料、酒店、餐厅及餐饮设备、供应 及服务展览会(HOFEX)于2007年5月16日落下了帷

幕。本次展会博得了来自参展商、参观者及承办组织的一致 喝彩。 点燃全场气氛的现场秀乐队,来自苏格兰的风笛演奏及 200多位业内贵宾无疑是整场开幕庆典的几大亮点。香港特别 行政区经济发展及劳工局主席,金紫荆星章获得者、太平绅士 Stephen Ip 先生,香港旅游局主席、金紫荆星章获得者、太 平绅士James Tien先生,香港酒店业协会主席Mark Jettenbichler 先生及本届 HOFEX 的主办者,香港展览服务有限公司总经理 Daniel Cheung先生共同主持了这场声势浩大的烹饪界盛事。

6 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


With the 2 main themes of “Foodservice Equipment & Hospitality Supplies” and “Food & Drink” invigorating four halls of the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, HOFEX 2007 occupied 35,000 sqm and drew unprecedented participation from 1,800 exhibiting companies from 42 countries. On top of all that, a record 29,193 trade visitors were tallied with 29.5% of those visitors from overseas. It’s worth highlighting the award winning, multipurpose-built Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre which plays host to HOFEX. As one of the largest exhibition centers in Asia, the huge advantage this venue enjoys is the convenient, central location in the heart of Wanchai on Hong Kong Island. Accessible by MTR, bus, taxi and ferry, HOFEX enjoys a location second to none in one of the world’s most impressive, efficient and functional exhibition venues for exhibitors and buyers alike. “In general, it’s (HOFEX) been a great opportunity to meet our distributing partners throughout Asia,” said David Marom, San Jamar, “and a fantastic opportunity to represent our distribution channels and showcase our extensive product line.” As the largest edition in the show’s 20 year history, HOFEX 2007 attracted international coverage from both the exhibit companies and buying delegations. “HOFEX is a very good show. The companies in our pavilion are very satisfied with the results. Visitor quality is very good, plus it’s not just regional but very international too. We had visitors from Australia, New Zealand, and even Chile. Organization of the show is very good too – we liked the promotion and signage for Bavaria. We will be back in 2009 with a bigger pavilion,” offered Bernhard Kiel, Manager Trade Fairs & Exhibitions Engineering Industries Bayern International, Germany. 依托着“餐饮设备及酒店用品”及“食品与饮料”两 大主题,本届 HOFEX 相关活动在香港会议展览中心的 四大展厅全面展开,总占地面积达 35,000 平方米,并吸 引到了来自42个国家的 1,800 家参展公司参与其中,创下 历年展会之最。除此之外,参观者总人数达到了29,193人, 其中 29.5%的参观者来自海外,这两点同样刷新了历史纪 录。 值得一提的是本届 HOFEX 的举办场所**香港会议及 展览中心。这座曾问鼎相关奖项的多功能建筑物是亚洲 最大的展览中心之一,位于香港岛湾仔区中心地段,坐 拥交通便利等傲人优势。由于周边配备有地铁、公交车、 出租车及渡船等数条直达线路,因此无论是在参展商还 是在采购商看来,HOFEX能在这座全球最宏伟、最便利 同时也是最实用的展览中心举办,无疑是占尽地利。 “总的来说,它(HOFEX)已经成了我们与亚洲各 地分销合作伙伴会面的绝佳契机,”来自 San Jamar 的 David Marom 说道:“同时也是我们代表分销渠道,展 示丰富产品线的绝好机会。” 本届HOFEX为该展会20年历史上规模最大的一次, 吸引了来自全球的展览公司及采购代表团共飨盛事。 “HOFEX 是一项非常好的展会。我们这个分馆的公司对 于会展成果相当满意。参观者素质非常高,而且该展会 不仅仅是地方性活动,还是一项国际盛事。我们迎来了 来自澳大利亚,新西兰甚至智利的参观者。展会的组织 工作也做得非常到位 – 我们喜欢巴伐利亚展台的宣传促 销活动及系列标识。2009年我们还会再参加的,届时展 区的规模还将有所扩大,”来自德国巴伐利亚国际的交易 及展览工程部经理 Bernhard Kiel 如此分享参展心得。 7


Off The Wire Within HOFEX 2007 were concurrent events that provided countless hours of entertainment and awe for the visitors. Highlighted by the Hong Kong International Culinary Classic (HKICC), Regional Hotel General Managers Forum, Asian F&B Forum as well as the Asian Open Cup – Creative Classic & Bartending Flair, these events exemplified HOFEX’s global appeal by showcasing and hosting speakers, judges, delegates and competitors alike from around the world. As a biennial industry event, HOFEX is considered a must for local, regional and international professionals from the food and drink, hotel, restaurant, hospitality technology & equipment sectors. To achieve the greatest possible results, featured sectors within the exhibition are set up to provide a more in-depth significance on certain niche areas such as tea & coffee, wine & spirit, spa facilities, bakery equipment, hospitality technology & interiors and more. 多项活动与展会同期开展,有些为参观者带来了无尽愉悦, 有些则令众人心生敬畏。香港国际美食大奖(HKICC)、亚太 酒店总经理论坛、亚洲餐饮论坛及亚洲公开赛杯**创意经典与 调酒精英大奖都是此次展会的重头戏,主办方通过这些活动款 待了众多演讲者、评委、参展代表及参赛选手,同时也给了他 们一个展示自己的机会,从而印证了HIOFEX在全球范围内的 巨大魅力。 作为一项每两年举办一次的业内活动,HOFEX已经成了亚 太及全球食品餐饮、宾馆、餐馆、酒店技术及设备等行业的专 业人士必去的一次盛会。为了达到最佳效果,展会下设多个专 区以挖掘咖啡茶饮、佳酿烈酒、水疗设备、烘焙设备、酒店技 术及室内布置等单独群体的深度内涵。

8 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


HOFEX has been awarded the prestigious UFI (The Global Association of the Exhibition Industry) status. Membership of UFI is only awarded to those exhibitions that have taken place at least three times and have a proven record of international exhibitors and buyers. The finale of HOFEX 2007 kicked off preparations for HOFEX 2009 which will be held on 6 – 9 May 2009 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. For further information or space reservation, please contact Hong Kong Exhibition Services, Ltd, Tel: +852 2804 1500.

HOFEX已获得了颇具名望的UFI(展览业全球联合 会)认证。只有举办历史长于三年,并且拥有全球参 展商及采购商良好参与纪录的展会才能获得UFI会员资 格。 本届HOFEX落幕后, 2009年度HOFEX的筹备工作 也正式展开了。下届展会将于2009年5月6日至9日选址 香港会议及展览中心隆重召开。欲索取详细信息或预 定展位,敬请联络香港展览服务公司,联系电话:+852 2804 1500。

HKICC Highlights Category

Organization

Name

Medal

Country

Pastry Under 21 Chocolate Cake

Antique Group Limited

Kwan Ying Wai

Gold

Hong Kong/China

Individual Ice Carving

Alan Intercontinental Grand Stanford

Tam Wai Lun

Gold

Hong Kong/China

LIVE Bakery Competition

Singapore Pastry Alliance

Thomas Ruder Edward Lee Leong Kai Soon

Gold

Singapore

Pastry Fantasy Table

Skyway Landis Hotel Shanghai

Gold

China

Professional Wedding Cake

Nagoya Sugar Art Gallery

Shirasuna Tomoko

Gold

Japan

Professional Pastry Showpiece

Gloria Prince Hotel Taipei

Chien Ping Yu

Gold With Distinction

Taiwan

9


Off The Wire

Happenings

Interbake China 2007 China’s premiere baking conference

第十一届中国烘焙展 中国顶级烘焙盛会 Recently held in Guangzhou on May 12th – May 14th, INTERBAKE China’s success and popularity continues to grow. With more than a 30% increase in exhibitors over the past 4 years, INTERBAKE China 2007 attracted 68,000 visitors from over 62 countries and has firmly established itself as China’s most influential bakery exhibition. One of INTERBAKE’s many highlights was the Asian Selection for the Louis Lesaffre Cup which is the global qualification event leading to the 2008 Bakery World Cup. Consisting of teams from China, the Philippines, Taiwan, Indonesia and South Korea, the Asian Selection competition was fierce with Taiwan emerging victorious earning the honor of representing Asia at the World Baking Cup in April 2008. The Chinese team very sportingly praised Taiwan’s victory and also the international dimension of the Louis Lesaffre Cup, which has given it the “opportunity to share expertise with the other countries involved”. China hopes to stage another such event with a view to “improving its skills and knowledge”.

10 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

近日,第十一届中国烘焙展于5 月12日至五月14日于广 州举行,其成功效应及受欢迎程度与日俱增。在过去的 四年中,该展会参展商人数共增长了30%,今年的展会 则吸引到了来自62个国家的68,000名参观者,由此牢牢 地确立了自己“中国最有影响力烘焙展”的地位。 该展会的亮点之一即乐斯福杯亚洲区选拔赛,该赛 事属 2008烘焙世界杯比赛全球资格赛。该赛事共有来自 中国、菲律宾、台湾、印度尼西亚和韩国的参赛队参加, 经过激烈的角逐, 台湾代表队浮出水面, 一举夺魁并将代 表亚洲参加即将于 2008 年 4 月举行的烘焙世界杯大赛。 充满友好体育精神的中国代表队事后称赞了台湾队 的胜出, 并对乐斯福杯的全球性大加赞扬, 认为该项赛 事使之“有机会与其他参赛国代表队共同切磋专业技 艺”。中国表示希望能再次主办类似赛事以期“雕琢技 巧及拓展知识”。


New Venture

Dean Brettschneider, author of 4 award wining and best selling baking books, has joined forces with David Laris and Slice to bring Shanghai consumers the very best in hand crafted artisan breads. These breads are exclusive to Slice and described by Dean as “back to the future” in style and taste. Translation: using traditional recipes combined with modern techniques, equipment and flavours. For more information, visit Dean’s website (www.deanbrettschneider.com) or stop by Slice in Shanghai to taste for yourself.

探索新疆域 曾写出四本获奖畅销书的 Dean Brettschneider 与 David Lari s及 Slice 联手为上海消费者奉上品质超群的手工艺术面包。这些面包由Slice 独家发售,Dean称其在风格及口味上都是以“回到未来”为主题的。 所谓的“回到未来”即是将传统配方与现代技术、设备及口味相结 合。欲知详情,敬请访问Dean的网站 www.deanbrettschneider.com 或亲临上海的Slice门店一品为快。

New Sugar Free Chocolate Xocoline from VALRHONA, is a fine, dark couverture that brings out the talent of professional chefs. This new product opens the door to a wide range of recipes calling for a sugars-free chocolate with the same sweet taste as a classic couverture. Sugars-free Xocoline 65% is made from a blend of fine cocoa beans from a range of plantations in different countries that have been selected for their ideal complementary aromatic profiles. Lightly acidulated, Xocoline’s fruity notes melt into roasted aromas bringing out a sweet and subtly oaky bitter taste.

无糖巧克力新品 VALRHONA 出品的 Xocoline 是一种口感极佳的黑朱古力,定能激发 专业大厨的创意天赋。由于这种无糖巧克力和传统朱古力甜度相当, 这项新产品的问世必将会孕育出更多姿多彩的美食配方。 无糖 Xocoline 65%的原料为精选自世界各国种植园的精制可可豆 混合物, 这些可可豆香味各异, 巧妙互补。Xocoline 略带酸味, 其水果触 感融入烘烤浓香, 一股甜蜜而略带橡木苦味的口感因此油然而生。

CHINA EVENT Sinodis is now opening the registration for Chinese Pastry Chefs to represent the Chinese team at the DGF Competition, “Mondial des Arts Sucrés” (International Confectionery Art Competition, first edition) to be held at EUROPAIN 2008. This competition featuring 12 teams from around the world is an excellent opportunity to showcase your talent and express your creativity through artistic chocolate. Submit your application before August 15th 2007 to Sinodis (include resume and pictures of production for first selection). Check www.sinodis.com.cn for more details and rules about the event or email directly to sbun@sinodis.com.cn.

中国地区活动 西诺迪斯现在开始接受DGF西点比赛的报名了! 您将有机会代表中国西点厨师参与本次定于在巴 黎2008欧洲展览会上举办的 “Mondial des Arts Sucrés” (首届国际烹饪艺术大赛)。 届时将有12支队伍分别代表所参赛的国家进入决 赛。本次大赛是展现您才能和创意的绝佳机遇, 您将有机会展示不用风味和艺术结合的西点艺术。 请在2007年8月15日前提交您的参赛申请,并连同 您的简历,照片和初选的成品照片。 详细信息和规则请点击 www.sinodis.com.cn 或电 邮至 sbun@sinodis.com.cn

11


Sugar Arts

Sugar Figurine 糖雕艺术— 糖偶人 Dear Friends, To date, we have covered critical techniques and concepts related to a visually appealing sugar showpiece. It has been my sincere pleasure in providing this tutorial to the readers of Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific and I do look forward to continuing this department and sharing more insight into my life’s work. In concluding this 6 part series, we cover the sugar figurine and as you will notice, these required skills, once mastered, can be applied to a variety of shapes and designs. Lastly, I can not stress enough the need for practice and experimentation when it comes to pulling, forming and creating sugar showpieces. Yes, things will break, hands and fingers will get burned and your patience tested. But don’t give up. The end results are beautiful and the sense of accomplishment unparalleled. Culinary Regards,

Ewald Notter 亲爱的读者们, 到这一期为止,我们已经向大家介绍了不少美轮美奂糖雕作品 的相关内容及其关键制作技巧。 能为《亚太西点及烘焙》的读者们提供这方面的指导,我深 感荣幸,同时也非常希望能够延续这方面的内容,与大家一起 分享我对于这项终生事业的一些心得。 本期杂志将为大家总结一下之前六部分的连载内容,向大家 介绍糖偶人的制作方法。当然,您在掌握这些必备技巧之后还 可运用它们制作其他形状花色各异的美食成品。 最后,我不得不提醒一句: 在拉糖, 塑形及创作糖雕作品时, 反复练习、试验才是最重要的。不错, 打破锅碗瓢盆, 烧伤十指双 手是家常便饭, 您的耐心也会大受考验。但请不要放弃。最终, 美丽作品的出炉将会带给您无与伦比的成就感。 祝诸位好胃口,

Ewald Notter 12 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Sugar Recipe (for pulling)

Isomalt Recipe (for pulling)

糖料配方 (拉糖用)

益寿糖配方 (拉糖用)

1000g sugar 糖 400g water 水 200g glucose 葡萄糖 10 drop tartaric acid

1000g Isomalt 益寿糖 100g water 水

果酸10滴

将两者混合加热至摄氏 170度-180度,煮沸。

Boil to: 170-180°C

Boil to: 160°C 将上述原料混合加热至摄氏 160度,煮沸。

Equipment 器具/用品 Silpat 矽力康胶布 Heat lamp 热灯 Scissors 剪刀 Hair Dryer (cool setting)

Bulb pump 气泡泵 Wood or metal tube

电吹风(调至冷风档)

工笔油漆刷一套

木管或金属管

Detailed paint brush set


Sugar Arts

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

1-2. Realism is an important aspect of any art so I always try to use accurate coloring. In order to achieve a pinkish white hue, I mix white sugar with a bit of yellow sugar and a little red sugar. Then pull and fold until the color is even. 3. To start the leg, you must cut off a cone shaped piece of sugar. You will need a sturdy pair of scissors for this task. 4-5. Again, striving for realistic qualities, the legs are an excellent place to start this figurine because there is not a high degree of difficulty. Start molding the foot by pulling the end of the cone shaped piece to make an ankle while pulling toes and pulling back and pinching to make the heal. Practice. Bend the leg and create the knee by pushing the sugar from the shin to the thigh. Then gently form the calf by pushing towards the knee. Trim the excess and make your second leg with an aim towards symmetry. 6. Trim the excess from the leg. Make a second leg.

1-2. 写实性对于任何艺术形式来说都是相当重要的一个 元素,因此我总是选择使用接近自然色的色素。我 将白糖与少量黄色及红色的糖混合来制作粉白色糖 料,然后不断将其拉伸、折叠直至色泽均匀。 3.

开始制作糖偶人的腿部前,您需要用一把结实的剪 刀剪切下一块圆锥形的糖料。

4-5. 制作腿部难度并不大,因此在制作整座糖雕时先从 腿部下手也有利于达到真实的效果。 开始捏塑脚型,拉伸圆锥糖料的底部, 捏出脚踝, 然 后拉出脚趾造型,将糖料向后方拉拽, 捏出脚跟。 这一操作需反复练习。 将腿弯折,把小腿部分的糖料推至大腿位置,捏出 膝盖。将小腿位置的糖料慢慢向膝盖方向轻推,捏 塑出腿肚子。去除多余的糖料后继续制作另一条腿, 注意, 双腿必须保持对称。 6.

去除腿部多余的糖料。制作另一条腿。 13


INNOVATION IN

CHOCOLATE

4559 - www.fbd.be

ASSOCIATE MEMBER OF

dobla.com 4559 Ad Past&Bak.Asia_jul-aug.indd 1

DOBLA BV, The Netherlands

Recipe made by

We have distributors all over South East Asia/Pacific. Please check our site to find your local distributor: www.dobla.com

Arthur Tuytel, Sous-chef general management Huize van Wely. Member of the Dutch Pastry Team. Winner of the silver medal Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie 2005. Arthur used the Dobla Diablo square.

04-06-2007 13:51:34


Sugar Arts

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

7.

Attach the legs by warming the hips and bringing both legs together. 8. Start the torso by modeling a piece of sugar into a teardrop shape and then mark the torso in half with a pair of scissors. Finally, mold the chest. Using the same techniques presented in creating the legs, create the arms, hands and elbows. For more detail, use scissors to create (cut) fingers in the hands. NOTE: Attach the arms to the torso while the arms are still warm so you are able to move the arms to desired position. 9. Forming the head will take practice. Be patient. I prefer a wooden tube attached to the bulb pump. Metal tubes can also be used. Place your sugar ball around the wooden tip and pump. First, work out the neck and then form the chin, forehead and back of the head. Have a hair dryer set up on a stand to cool down the sugar once the head is molded to your liking. Cut the ball off the tube when ready or use. TIP: Instead of cutting, use a spirit burner to gently warm the stem and slip the ball off the tube. Then trim the stem. 10. With a thin brush and food coloring, paint the face using as little food coloring as possible so if you make a mistake it is easier to wipe the color off. 11. Create the skirt by pulling out and attaching elongated petals. Create the hair style with three pulled “ribbon-like” pieces. 12. Finished Product. Adorn with ribbons, bubble sugar and molded stand as covered in previous installments.

7. 将臀部位置加热,并把两腿粘合在一起。 8. 开始制作糖偶人的躯干部位。将一块糖料捏成泪珠状, 用剪刀在躯干的中线位置压出印记。最后,捏出胸部 轮廓。 捏出手臂,手掌及手肘,方法同捏塑偶人腿部。完成 细部操作,用剪刀在手掌上切割出手指。 注意:应在手臂仍保持温热时将其粘合到躯干上,这 样便可根据需要将手臂弯折到适当位置。 9. 制作糖雕的头部时必须多加练习。您必须保持耐心。 我比较喜欢选用那种连有气泡泵的木管。当然您也可 以选用金属管。将糖球放在木管顶端处, 挤压气泵。 首先, 制作出脖子, 然后, 塑出下巴, 前额和后脑。将电 吹风放置在支架上,将头部捏至理想形状后,吹风将 其冷却。将糖球从管子上端切下备用。 小贴士:除使用切割法外,您也可以用酒精炉慢慢加 热糖球底端,待其从管子顶端自然脱落。最后修剪底 端。 10. 取小号刷子一支,蘸上食用色素为脸部上色。注意蘸 取的色素量少为宜,这样如有失误便可方便地将颜色 抹去。 11.将花瓣撕下, 加工成细长型,粘贴到糖雕上制成偶人的 裙子。将三片蝴蝶结型糖片拉长后制成偶人的头发。 12.完成成品。用蝴蝶结、糖泡及底座修饰即可(装饰品 制作方法在前几期连载中均有介绍)。

15


Regional

Showcase 16 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


GCT_210x297_GB.indd 1

1/03/07 16:56:43


Regional Showcase

Loquat Kanten Chocolate Timbale 枇杷寒天巧克力丁堡 Yield : 10 servings

Apricot Chocolate coating 杏桃巧克力淋酱

Loquat Kanten 枇杷寒天 300g water 水 5 tsp kanten powder 寒天粉 80g sugar 糖 200g fresh loquat 新鲜枇杷

550g dark chocolate 55% 黑巧克力 100g apricot gel 杏桃凝胶 300g UHT cream 36% 油脂含量为36% 的高温处理奶油

1. Bring to boil water and Kanten powder. 将寒天粉放入水中煮沸。

1. Melt chocolate at temperature 40ºC. 将巧克力加热至 40 摄氏度, 使其融化。

2. Cook UHT cream to 90ºC.

2. Add sugar.

将高温处理奶油加热至 90 摄氏度。

加入糖。

3. Mix two mixture well then add apricot gel.

3. Add cubed, fresh loquat. 加入切成小丁的新鲜枇杷。

4. Pour on mat to cool down, cut into small pieces, set aside. 将混合物倒在烘烤垫上,待其冷却后切 成小块,放置一旁备用。

Chocolate Mousse 巧克力慕丝

60g egg yolk 鸡蛋黄 50g sugar 糖 50g water 水 200g dark chocolate 55 % 可可脂含量为 55% 的黑巧克力

7.5g gelatine sheet 明胶薄片 300g UHT cream 36% 油脂含量为36% 的高温处理奶油

1. Cook water and sugar to boil. Add egg yolk. Mix well to make sabayon. 将水和糖混合加热至煮沸。加入鸡蛋 黄。混合均匀,准备制作沙巴雍。

2. Melt chocolate to 50ºC and fold into the first mixture. 将巧克力加热至 50 摄氏度, 使其融 化。将融化后的巧克力加入步骤一中得 到的混合物。

3. Add soaked gelatine, keep the temperature at 38ºC.

将上述两种混合物混合均匀后最后加入 杏桃凝胶。

Assembly 制作方法

1. Place a piece of chocolate sponge at the bottom of a 4cm diameter mould with height of 6cm. Fill 1/3 height with chocolate mousse and add loquat kanten. Finally cover with chocolate mousse again. 取一直径为4厘米,高6厘米的模具, 将一片巧克力海绵蛋糕作为底料放置在 模具中。加入巧克力慕丝(高度约为模 具的三分之一)及枇杷寒天。最后盖上 一层巧克力慕丝。

2. Put into freezer. 将模具放入冰箱冷藏。

3. Unmould and pour apricot chocolate coating and do necessary decorations after cool down. 将蛋糕脱模后淋上杏桃巧克力淋酱, 待其冷却后作适当修饰即可。

Your Notes

加入软化明胶,注意,混合物温度需保 持在摄氏 38 度。

4. Add whipping cream. 加入打发奶油。

Cheng Chi – Yang Owner/Chef Sweet Herb Pastry Tel : +886 4 2329 6187

Taipei 台北

18 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


Loquat Kanten Chocolate Timbale 19


Regional Showcase

Red Bull Jelly 红牛果冻 Red Bull Layer 红牛底料

250 ml water 水 100g glucose 葡萄糖 15 pcs gelatin leaves 明胶薄片 750 ml Red Bull 红牛饮料 60 ml lemon juice 柠檬汁 Lychee fruit, peeled, seeded and halved 荔枝果去皮去籽并对半切开

1. Soak gelatin leaves in cold water to soften. 将明胶薄片浸入冷水中软化。

2. Combine water and glucose in a pot and over medium heat bring to a simmer. 将葡萄糖和水放入锅中,以中火慢慢熬 煮。

3. Stir in the gelatin and whisk until dissolved. 加入明胶并搅拌直至其完全溶解。

4. Add the Red Bull and lemon juice. 加入红牛及柠檬汁。

5. Strain.

2. Combine lychee juice and sugar in a pot and over medium heat bring to a simmer. 将荔枝果汁和糖倒入锅中,以中火慢慢 熬煮。

3. Stir in the gelatin and whisk until dissolved. 加入明胶并搅拌直至其完全溶解。

4. Let mixture cool down before adding the milk. Otherwise, it will curdle easily. 待上述混合物冷却后加入牛奶。注意, 如冷却不完全, 则加入牛奶后较易结冻。

5. Strain. 滤去杂质。

6. In the molds, top the Red Bull layer with the lychee mixture.

5. Put bowl in ice bath to cool down mixture. 将碗放入冰浴中,使混合物冷却。

Assembly 制作方法:

1. Unmold the jelly and place on small dish (preferably soy or sauce dish). 将果冻脱模后放置在小碟子上(酱油碟 或调味汁碟尤佳)

2. Put a drop of strawberry coulis on top. 在果冻上淋一滴草莓薄果酱。

3. Garnish with a piece of coriander leaf. 用一片香菜叶作点缀即可。

Your Notes

在将荔枝混合物铺盖在红牛底料上。

7. Return to the chiller until completely set overnight. 将模具重新放回冰箱中过夜冷却直至完 全成型。

Strawberry Coulis

滤去杂质。

草莓薄果酱

6. Use 2 oz. moulds and fill halfway. 取2盎司的模具并将混合物倒入其中, 倒入量占模具容积的二分之一。

7. Add a slice of lychee fruit.

500g strawberry puree 草莓果泥 25og sugar 糖 30g water 水 15g corn flour 小麦粉

放入一片荔枝果。

1. Combine strawberry puree and sugar in a pot and bring to a boil.

8. Chill until completely set. 放入冰箱冷却直至成型。

将草莓果泥和糖放入锅中煮沸。

2. Make a slurry from the water and corn flour.

Lychee Layer 荔枝底料

将小麦粉和水加工成泥状混合物。

750 ml lychee juice 荔枝果汁 200g sugar 糖 15 pcs gelatin leaves 明胶薄片 250 ml milk 牛奶

3. Stir the slurry into the boiling mixture and simmer for three minutes until corn flour is cooked.

1. Soak gelatin leaves in cold water to soften.

4. Strain into a bowl.

将明胶薄片放入冷水中软化。

将泥状混合物倒入煮沸的草莓混合物中 并用文火熬煮三分钟直至小麦粉煮熟。 滤去杂质后装入碗中。

Nouel C. Omamalin Pastry Chef Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa Denarau Island, Nadi Tel : +679 675 1111 Fax : +679 675 1122 www.sofitelfiji.com.fj Email: nouel.omamalin@nexc.com

20 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Fiji 斐济


Red Bull Jelly 21


Regional Showcase

Awakening of Inca 印加之觉醒 将土豆薄片浸入糖浆中, 静置一晚备用。

Yield: 50 servings

2. Bake at a low temperature oven for 60-90 minutes.

Potato Mousse 土豆慕丝

760g potato (Awakening of Inca)

将其放入烤箱中以低温烘焙 60 至 90 分 钟。

(Awakening of Inca is a name of the new kind of Japanese potato) 土豆(印加之觉醒) 注:印加之觉醒为一种日本土豆新品

Mochi

1240g whole milk 全脂牛奶 370g egg yolk 鸡蛋黄 420g sugar 糖 2150g fresh cream 45% 乳脂含量为45%

Traditionally, mochi is made by steaming sticky rice then pounding the rice into dough. Next, the dough is molded into small ball shapes and set to cool.

的新鲜奶油

14g gelatin sheet 明胶薄片 1. Boil the potato without peeling. 将土豆连皮煮熟

2. Peel the potato, crush and strain. 去皮后捣碎,滤去杂质。

3. Add milk little by little in Robo Coupe. 在食品加工机中分批加入少量牛奶。

4. Make anglaise with the egg yolk, sugar and cream. 用鸡蛋黄、糖和奶油制成蛋奶糊。

5. Add the potato and heat up at 76°C. 在蛋奶糊中加入土豆并加热至 76 摄氏 度。

6. Add the bloomed gelatin. Strain.

糯米滋

糯米滋的制作方法一般是将糯米蒸熟后将 其揉成面团,然后把面团捏成若干小球并 冷却。

Assembly 制作方法:

1. Pour the mousse into the cups and keep it in the refrigerator. 将慕丝倒如杯中并放入冰箱冷藏。

2. Pour a bit of sauce on top of the mousse and add 3 mochi balls. Decorate with the potato chips. 在慕丝上淋少许酱并放上三只糯米滋小 球。用土豆脆片点缀即可。

Your Notes

加入发开的明胶。滤去杂质。

Sauce 酱 500g Japanese red bean paste (ANN) 日本红豆酱

170g fresh cream 37% 乳脂含量为 37% 的鲜奶油

Add the cream into the bean paste little by little. 少量多次将奶油放入红豆酱中。

Sweet Potato chips 甜土豆脆片

1. Soak the thin sliced potato in the 60 brix syrup for one night.

Masato Motohashi Chef / Owner Anniversary Bakery 6-1-3 Minamiaoyama Minatoku Tokyo 107-0062 Tel: 03-3797-7894 Fax: 03-3797-7895

Japan 日本 Courtesy All Japan Confectionery Association from PCG magazine

22 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


Awakening of Inca 23


Regional Showcase

Iced Halo-Halo Parfait 冰冻什锦水果冻糕 Yield: 8 portions

8. Top this evenly with the chopped ingredients.

3 egg yolks 鸡蛋黄 2 eggs 整只鸡蛋两只 50g white sugar 白糖 125g whipping cream 打发奶油 1/4 tsp vanilla essence 香草精华 25g sweetened red sugar palm (kaong) 糖渍红糖棕榈

25g sweetened green coco gel (nata de coco) 糖渍青椰胶冻 25g sweetened white kidney beans

将步骤一中的什锦碎块撒在混和物上, 整平表面。

9. Fill each moulds and smooth the tops. 依次将混和物倒入模具中并撒上什锦 碎块,并整平表面。

10. Freeze until set. 将模具放入冰箱冷藏直至成型。

Purple Yam Sauce

糖渍白色四季豆

紫甘薯酱

25g sweetened jackfruit 糖渍菠萝蜜 25g purple yam jam (halayang ube)

1. Mix half a cup of purple yam jam with fresh milk until smooth. 将半杯紫甘薯酱与鲜牛奶混和拌匀。

紫甘薯酱

160g sweetened red mung beans 糖渍红豆 1. Drain syrup and coarsely chop the kaong, nata de Coco, kidney beans & langka. Mix together. Set aside. 将糖渍红糖棕榈、糖渍青椰胶冻、糖渍 白色四季豆和糖渍菠萝蜜滤去糖浆后稍 稍切碎,混和后静置一边备用。

2. Line 3 inch round parfait mould with red mung beans. 取一个直径为三英寸的圆形冻糕模具, 在模具底部铺上一层红豆。

3. In a mixer bowl, over low fire, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks and sugar until smooth. 将鸡蛋,蛋黄及糖倒入搅拌器皿中,一 边用文火熬煮一边搅拌均匀。

4. Whip cream until stiff.

Assembly 制作方法

1. Unmold each parfait and set on a plate, bottom side up. 将冻糕逐一脱模后底朝上放置在盘子 上。

2. Decorate each plate by brushing a flower design with purple yam sauce. 蘸取紫甘薯酱,在盘子上画出鲜花图案 进行装饰。

3. Decorate top of parfait with fresh mango rose and mint leaves. 在冻糕上放上新鲜芒果花及薄荷叶修饰 即可。

Your Notes

将奶油打发。

5. Fold the whipped cream into the egg mixture. 将打发的奶油放入上述鸡蛋混和物中并 搅拌均匀。

6. Add vanilla essence. 加入香草精华。

7. Fill half of the prepared parfait moulds with the mixture. 将混和物倒入圆形冻糕模具中,混和物 量约为模具容积的二分之一。

Jessie C. Sincioco Owner & Chef Le Souffle Restaurant-wine Bar Makati City Tel: 890 6543/ 897 7516

24 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Philippines 菲律宾


Iced Halo-Halo Parfait 25


Regional Showcase

Ube (Purple Yam) Filled Petit Fours 紫甘薯夹心花色小蛋糕 Cake

Ube (Purple Yam) Filling

蛋糕

紫甘薯夹心

225g butter 黄油 450g superfine sugar 超细糖 pinch salt 盐一小撮 2 tsp vanilla 香草2茶匙 3 eggs 鸡蛋 1 tsp baking powder 烘焙粉1茶匙 305g all purpose flour 万能面粉 170g sour cream 酸奶油 183g milk 牛奶

480 ml Ube (purple yam) 紫甘薯 132g condensed milk 浓缩牛奶 2 tbs sugar 糖 150g evaporated milk 无糖炼乳 1 pcs pandan leaf 马兰叶 Dash Ube food color 紫甘薯食用色素

1. In a mixing bowl, cream butter, sugar, salt and vanilla for about 2 minutes. 将奶油、黄油、糖、盐及香草放入搅拌 碗中搅拌两分钟左右。

2. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. 逐个加入鸡蛋,每加入一只后须搅拌均 匀。

3. Blend in sifted dry ingredients alternately with the liquid ingredients, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. 将干性原料混合过滤后取适量加入上述 混合物中搅拌均匀,再加入适量液体原 料搅拌均匀,之后再加入干性原料,如 此干湿相间,重复操作,注意,最后加 入的必须是干性原料。

4. Pour batter into two greased and lined 10” x 14” pans. 取两只 10” x 14” 的烤盘,表面涂油, 铺上烘烤纸,并将混合物倒入其中。

5. Bake at 163ºC till toothpick test comes out clean, about 15 – 18 minutes. 将烤盘放入摄氏 163 度的烤箱中烘烤 15至 18 分钟,可用牙签戳蛋糕,如无 粘稠附着物即可出炉。

6. Cool completely before unmolding. 待其彻底冷却后脱模。

7. Set aside.

1. Combine boiled ube, condensed milk, sugar, evaporated milk, Pandan leaf, and food color in a saucepan. 将煮沸的紫甘薯、糖、无糖炼乳、马兰 叶及食用色素放入炖锅中。

2. Cook, stirring constantly, until very thick. 边加热边不断搅拌直至混合物呈粘稠 状。

3. Cool completely. 彻底冷却。

Glaze 糖釉

QS (Quantity sufficient) sifted powdered sugar 足量过滤糖粉 QS water 足量水 QS Ube food coloring 紫甘薯食用色素 1. Powdered sugar in a bowl. 将糖放入碗中碾成粉末。

2. Stir in enough water to achieve a consistency that coats to about 2 – 3 mm. thickness when a spoon is dipped. 加入适量水并加以搅拌。可浸入调羹, 然后取出,若凝结层厚度达到2至3毫 米,则表明混合物黏度适中。

Assembly 制作步骤:

2. Fill first cake layer with ube filling, spreading to about 2-mm. thickness. 取一块蛋糕作底,铺上一层紫甘薯夹 心,夹心厚度约为2毫米。

3. Top with another cake layer, pressing well to even out the surface. 在夹心层上再放上一块蛋糕,稍作挤 压,整平表面。

4. Brush top with a very thin layer of glucose. 在蛋糕表面刷上一层极薄的葡萄糖。

5. Roll out the pastillage/gumpaste to about 1 mm. thickness. 将塑糖滚成厚约1毫米的糖片。

6. Place the rolled pastillage/gumpaste over the prepared cake. 将塘片放在蛋糕成品上。

7. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours to set. 放入冰箱中冷藏至少四小时,待其成 型。

8. Cut into 1” x 1” squares. 将蛋糕取出后切成 1” x 1” 的小方块。 9. Enrobe with the prepared glaze, letting the excess glaze to drip. 在蛋糕表面淋上一层糖釉,静置滴去 多余糖釉。

10. Trim off excess glaze that sets on the bottom sides of the petit fours. 将滴落在蛋糕底部周围的多余糖釉 除去。

11. When the glaze sets, decorate as needed with either colored buttercream or Royal Icing. 待糖釉凝固成型后,根据需要用彩色 糖霜进行修饰即可。

Your Notes

QS pastillage or gumpaste 塑糖适量 QS colored buttercream or Royal Icing 彩色意大利糖霜适量

1. Unmold cakes.

放置一旁备用。

将蛋糕脱模。

Penk Tan-Ching Pastry Chef PASTRY BIN 69 Kitanlad Street, Quezon City pastrybn@info.com.ph

26 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Philippines 菲律宾


Ube (Purple Yam) Filled Petit Fours 27


Regional Showcase

Pumpkin Pie Cheese Cake with Maple Cinnamon Ice Cream 南瓜派乳酪蛋糕配枫树肉桂冰激淋 取12只烤蛋或小蛋糕模具,在其表面喷 上芥花籽油并铺上烘焙用纸。

Yield: 12 individual pies Pie Base 底料派

250g digestive biscuits 消化饼干 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon 肉桂细末 125g soft unsalted butter 软性淡黄油 1. Food process digestive biscuits and cinnamon until it resembles fine sand. Add butter and mix until it resembles wet sand. Set aside. 将消化饼干及肉桂混和并放入食品加工 机加工, 直至呈细沙状混合物。在混和 物中加入黄油搅拌直至其呈潮湿沙土 状。放置一边备用。

Cheese and pumpkin mix 乳酪南瓜

425g pumpkin puree (1 whole butternut pumpkin) 南瓜果泥 (一整只白胡桃南瓜) 750g cream cheese 奶油乳酪 200g caster sugar 细白砂糖 6 eggs 鸡蛋 juice 1/2 a lemon 取半只柠檬榨汁备用 1/4 tsp each: ground ginger, ground nutmeg, cinnamon, all spice and ground coriander 姜末,肉豆蔻末,肉桂,牙买 加胡椒和香菜末各四分之一茶匙

1. Pierce the whole pumpkin 6 times with a knife ad bake at 200°C for 45 min to one hour. 用刀在南光上戳出六个洞,并将其放入 烤箱中,以200摄氏度烘烤45分钟至1小 时。

2. Cool pumpkin. Peel off skin and scoop out seeds. Into food processor until smooth. 待南瓜冷却后削皮去籽,将其放入食品 加工机中制成均匀果泥。

3. Line 12 ramekins or small cake tins with canola oil spray and baking paper.

5. Into food processor with cream cheese and pumpkin puree; add 200g of sugar, then eggs, one at a time, then lemon juice and spices.

3. Whisk egg yolks and sugar until pale. Add a little hot milk mixture and whisk then pour the egg mixture in to the pot of hot milk mixture and cook over a low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture coats the back of a spoon. 4. Strain into bowl sitting in ice bath and stir until cool. 5. Once cool, process in ice cream machine.

将奶油乳酪和南瓜果泥倒入食品加工机 中搅拌。加入200克糖,然后加入鸡蛋, 注意分多次放入, 每次放入一只,最后 放入柠檬汁及各类香料。

Pecan praline 胡桃杏仁糖 200g pecans lightly toasted 香烤大胡桃 200g caster sugar 细白砂糖

4. Use pie base and press into ramekins to form a solid base with round backed spoon. 将派底料塞入模具中,用调羹的突起面 稍作挤压,紧实底层。

6. Pour into ramekins and place ramekins in a roasting dish. Pour enough boiling water in to the roasting dish to reach half way up the side of the ramekins. 将上述混合物倒入蛋糕模具中, 然后放置 在烤盘中。在烤盘中倒入足量的沸水, 液 面高度保持在模具高度的一半左右。

7. Bake at 170°C for 25-30 minutes until just set. Allow to cool. 将烤盘放入烤箱中,以170摄氏度烘烤 25至30分钟直至成型。取出冷却。

8. Carefully remove cheesecakes from ramekins and refrigerate until served. 仔细将乳酪蛋糕脱模并放入冰箱冷藏, 等待上盆。

Maple and Cinnamon Ice Cream 枫糖肉桂冰激凌 500 ml milk 牛奶 500 ml cream 奶油 10 egg yolks 鸡蛋黄 100g caster sugar 细白砂糖 100 ml maple syrup 枫糖浆 1 tsp ground cinnamon 肉桂细末

1. Prepare an Ice bath. 2. Heat milk, cream, cinnamon and maple syrup in a pot until boil. Remove and set aside.

1. Dissolve sugar in small amount of water then bring to boil until caramelized. 2. Mix in pecans until thoroughly coated. Pour mixture onto baking paper to cool. 3. Chop pecans roughly and place in airtight container until needed. Pistachio syrup 阿月浑子糖浆 100ml sugar syrup 糖浆 50g pistachio paste 阿月浑子酱 1. Heat sugar in a small pot, whisk in pistachio paste and bring to boil. Take pot off heat and leave to infuse for 1 hour. 2. Strain through fine chinois and put in refrigerator until needed. Assembly 1. Plate one individual cheesecake. 2. Place a pecan (not praline) in the centre of cheesecake. Make a small mound of pralines on other half of plate. Drizzle a line of pistachio syrup across the plate between these two. Place a scoop of praline ice cream on top of the praline and serve.

Naomi Archibald Pasty Chef The Living Room North Sydney NSW 2060 Tel: +61 (2) 9964-9766 Fax: +61 (2) 9964-9068 www.livingroom.com.au

28 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Australia 澳洲


Pumpkin Pie Cheese Cake with Maple Cinnamon Ice Cream 29


Chef in Focus

Expanding on the Classics 传延经典

Fruit Jellies

Bambi Sy Gobio leverages her international pastry pedigree to provide Metro Manila with very uncommon desserts. Bambi Sy Gobio 依托深厚国际背景,为马尼拉城送上非凡甜品。 By Campbell Ross Walker Photography by Milo Sogueco

30 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


Bambi Sy Gobio 31


Chef in Focus

Mall Outlet

“W

Quezo de Bola Ensaimadas

“名

hat’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet; so Romeo would, were he not Romeo call’d, retain that dear perfection which he owes without that title.” When I first read Juliet’s verse from William Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet in junior high school, I thought she was pretty confused. The name Romeo was not the issue; it was his family name, Montague, that was the problem. Language can be a difficult subject. How to describe, define or designate a person, place, thing or concept can be complicated. Juliet’s speech expresses this complexity and captures the sometimes arbitrary, and often confusing, nature of naming anything. With that said, please allow me to introduce this issue’s Chef in Focus: Bambi Sy Gobio from Kooky & Luscious. How about that! Dressed in her chef ’s whites and clogs, Chef Bambi fortunately has a good sense of humor for people who have a hard time with her names. It turns out ‘Bambi’ is a traditional Filipino name. As for Kooky & Luscious, “it means weird, crazy, unusual yet delicious. It’s part of my personality. I’m a little bit strange and bizarre but my food is pretty good,” explains the chef. Luckily, Bambi isn’t they only one who thinks her food is good. Since 2002, the year she opened her first pastry shop, legions of Manila’s gourmands, sweet toothed kids and dessert lovers of all ages have packed her outlets. One of the most celebrated pastry chefs in the Philippines, Bambi is different. She is obsessed not with inferno plates or elaborate towers of spun sugar, but with structure and the look of authenticity. Eschewing fussy, pretentious desserts, Bambi is more comfortable creating funky, updated versions of old standbys like Mango Bango, Purple Yam and Freak Coconut Cake and Chocolate Dementia, inspired by Julia Child’s Queen of Sheba on The French Chef. Acclaimed by the Manila Bulletin as “awe inspiring”, this Culinary Institute of America graduate worked in New York for legendary chef David Bouley and at the Four Seasons Toronto for Xavier Deshayes. “Working in North America was an incredible experience. I learned a great deal. Most important, the chefs showed me how to be bold and tough enough to do what I wanted with no restraint. As long as I

32 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

字有何妨?玫瑰不叫玫瑰,依然芬芳如故。所以 即使罗密欧不叫罗密欧,他也还是那个完美的可 人儿。” 当读初中的我第一次从威廉*莎士比亚的《罗密欧与朱丽叶》 中读到朱丽叶所写的这首诗时,我觉得她真是糊涂得可以。罗密 欧这个名字根本不是什么问题,此人的家族姓氏**蒙塔古才是问 题的症结所在。 语言这个问题很是棘手。如何描述、定义或命名某人, 某地 , 某样东西或某个概念很可能是一件非常复杂的事情。朱丽叶的话 就表现了这种复杂性,同时也抓住了命名某样东西的实质:即些 许的主观臆断,惯常的稀里糊涂。说了那么多,我还是要介绍一 下本期的焦点大厨:来自Kooky & Luscious的Bambi Sy Gobio。好 独特的名字! 对于那些为她的名字而伤透脑筋的人,这位身穿一身白色厨 师服,脚踏木屐的Bambi大厨倒是充满了幽默感。其实,Bambi是 一个土生土长的菲律宾名字。至于Kooky & Luscious么,这位大厨 是如此解释的:“意思是奇特,疯狂,不同寻常而又美味可口。这 代表了我的某些性格特点。我有些与众不同,稀奇古怪,但是我 做出的料理总是很棒。” 幸而 Bambi 并不是唯一一个认为自己的料理美味可口的人。自 从她2002年开办自己的首家西点屋开始,庞大的美食家军团,喜 爱甜食的孩子们和各年龄阶层的甜食拥趸们蜂拥而至,小店门庭 若市。 作为菲律宾最知名的西点大厨,Bambi 确实与众不同。她并不 醉心于劲爆热辣的盘中美食或是精美细巧的糖雕,而是沉迷于架 构、外形的原汁原味。Bambi不去理会那些细节至上,徒有其表 的甜品,反而更喜欢将那些被晾在一边的老菜式加以改良革新, 制成非同凡响的美食**如“芒果香蕉汁”、“紫薯怪味椰子蛋糕 ”及从 Julia Child 的《法国大厨》一书中的“示巴女王”蛋糕中 获取灵感而创造的“痴迷巧克力”。 这位毕业于美国烹饪学院,曾被《马尼拉公报》赞誉为“令人 肃然起敬”的厨师曾在纽约与传奇大厨David Bouley共事,后又加 盟多伦多的四季餐馆,成为Xavier Deshayes的手下大将。“在南美 的工作经历在外人看来简直难以置信。我学到了很多东西。最重 要的是,那里的大厨们让我知道了如何勇敢坚强,无所保留地实 现自己心中所想。只要我了解经典,我就能够尝试不同的方法, 而且厨房给予我的自由空间也是惊人的。”Bambi 娓娓道来。


Dementia 33


Chef in Focus

Strawberry Citrus Cheesecake

Mango Kiwi Pavlova

34 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Mango Bango

Vanilla Crème Brulee


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Mango Cheesecake

XOCOPILI Discover a wealth of creative possibilities

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knew the classics, I could play around and that latitude in the kitchen was amazing,” Bambi explains. Bambi’s “classics” training came at a very early age. “When I was 8 years old, my mother gave me my first cookbook from France. She and my grandmother were forces to reckon with in the kitchen. Our house was filled with all kinds of tools, gadgets and equipment. My goal was to be as good as they were and much of my youth was spent burning through their collection of black and white cookbooks. My favorites were the classic Betty Crocker 1950, the Good Housekeeeping series and Escoffier’s Ma Cuisine, which didn’t even have pictures, but an odd structured way about it. There were many variations to one recipe. I learned versatility quite early,” says Bambi laughingly. From there, Bambi advanced to the Time Life Cuisines of the World box-set which she memorized by high school. Yet, not everyone on the home front was thrilled with her direction. Bambi’s mom implored her highly creative daughter to direct her experimental and analytical skills towards the field of medicine. But future chef Bambi knew exactly where she was going. “One day, I told my Mom that I wanted to be a chef in New York City. She was petrified. I am her youngest child and my three older brothers were all off earning their graduate degrees in Business Administration,” explains Bambi. “She was worried my future would be a drastic failure”. Luckily, a compromise was struck in the Sy Gobio household: Bambi would earn her undergraduate degree and from there she could pursue her culinary dream. At the urging of her uncle, Bambi researched the Culinary Institute of America and after making quick work of the four year Hotel and Restaurant Administration program at the University of the Philippines, Bambi was off to Upstate New York, all the way to the CIA.

Aux Sources du Grand Chocolat® 26600 Tain-l’Hermitage - France Standard : +33 (0)4 75 07 90 90 - Fax : +33 (0)4 75 08 05 17 www.valrhona.com

35


Chef in Focus Sugar Free Banana Chip Bread Pudding

Landing back in the Philippines with a bag full of experience and her culinary chops well established, Bambi’s first foray into the Manila foodservice scene was a wholesale food and dessert business, Arcane Cuisine. Servicing predominately restaurants and cafes, Bambi soon figured out that survival in the wholesale sector depends greatly upon meeting the needs of the eventual end user. “When it came to landing accounts, I learned quickly that the eventual consumer is always right. Regardless of my own personal preferences, I needed to create products that appealed to a wide ranging customer base. In the beginning, it was hard because I always wanted to be different, weird and unusual. No one seemed to get it. So, I had to make a focused effort towards offering more mainstream and tradition desserts and pastry,” says Bambi. That early realization kept Bambi’s business afloat and afforded her the opportunity to get her feet wet running a business and developing her managerial skills. However, she never lost he passion for the “different” and finally realized her dream in 2002 when she opened her retail outlet Kooky & Luscious. An offbeat salute to sweets, the first Kooky & Luscious shop ironically made a gastronomic splash due to its wide range of sugar free desserts. “I didn’t want to do sugar free desserts early on because the only substitutes available in town were Equal and Sweet and Low. However, when Splenda and Sugar Free Callebaut became available, I was able to create taste profiles close enough to the real thing that generated a grass roots following among Manila’s health conscious and within the diabetic community,” explains Chef Bambi. Five years later, Kooky & Luscious is a Manila institution, having expanded to four outlets with its owner and pastry visionary eyeing even greener pastures further up the value chain. “I’m in the process of developing a new branded café, Kaffe Damaso, which will serve the higher end of the market. By participating in the industry at various levels, I feel our overall business will benefit and we should be able to stay ahead of trends and the very fickle local market,” offers Bambi. 36 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

Bambi很早就接受了这种“经典”教育。“在我八岁的时候, 母亲送了我第一本法国烹饪书籍。我的母亲和祖母在厨房里的 力量不可小觑。我家里满是各类工具,烹饪器具及设备。我的 目标就是成为和她们一样的厨师。边翻看她们黑白烹饪书上的 菜式边挨个烧遍**我童年的大多数时光就是这样度过的。我最喜 欢的书籍包括经典的《Betty Croker1950》,《好管家》系列及 《Escoffier的Ma Cuisine饭店》,这些书几乎没有什么图片,行 文的结构也很奇怪。同一个菜谱有许多种变体,因此我很早就 学会什么叫做多才多艺。”Bambi回忆这段经历时带着一丝笑意。 看完这些书,Bambi又更进一步,开始阅读《全球保留烹调 菜谱》盒装图书系列, 据她回忆, 这时她已经是高中生了。然而, 当初并非每个家庭成员都对她的爱好发展方向表示满意。Bambi 的母亲恳求自己充满创意的女儿将其开展试验及分析的技能运 用到医学领域。然而这位未来的大厨却非常清楚自己想要走哪 条路。“某天,我告诉母亲我想成为一名纽约大厨。听了我的 话,她目瞪口呆。我是家里最小的孩子,我的三个哥哥全都踏 上了离家攻读工商管理学学位之路,”Bambi 解释道。“她担心 我未来落得个彻底失败的下场。” 幸运的是,Sy Gobio 一家最终做出了妥协: Bambi 必须取得大 学文凭,之后她便可继续追求自己的烹饪理想了。在叔叔的敦 促下,Bambi了解了一下美国烹饪学院的情况,在匆匆完成了菲 律宾大学宾馆餐厅行政管理专业的四年制学习课程后,立刻离 家前往纽约州北部,径直来到美国烹饪学院。 满腹经验, 烹饪风格成熟老到的 Bambi 回到了菲律宾。刚踏入 马尼拉饮食界的她便进入了甜食食品批发企业 Arcane Cuisine。由 于服务的客户多为餐馆、咖啡厅,不久 Bambi 便发现在批发行业 立足的关键在于满足最终用户的要求。“说到争夺客户,我很 快就意识到总是终端客户说了算。无论我个人喜好如何都必须 创造出吸引广大客户群体的产品。一开始要做到这一点很难, 因为我总是想做到与众不同且奇特而非凡。但似乎没有人理解 我的用心。所以,必须全心专注于提供更多主流传统甜品和西 点,”Bambi 说道。

Luscious Nest of Passion


37


Chef in Focus

Mint Chip Ice Cream Sandwich

But success and future expansion plans do have a price. Overseeing the business from seven in the morning to eleven in the evening, Monday through Saturday, Bambi describes her typical day as “crazy”. Though she has hired an extensive staff and management, Bambi keeps her hand in everything, running back and forth between outlets, customers and a multitude of cross town meetings. A perfectionist when it comes to both quality and presentation, Bambi is admittedly very demanding on her team and expects their best effort each day. “I love what I do but in order to be successful, the business aspect takes up a large part of my day and is not always fun. Training our staff is challenging and I must constantly remind myself that not everyone will “get it” the first time….like I did!” exclaims a very tired Chef Bambi. Yet, even with her daily demands, Bambi Sy Gobio still finds time to create innovative desserts, although the process is not standard operating procedure. “I get inspired with everything around me. It could be a piece of fabric I see that has some odd texture or color that would make me think of a new cake. Most of the time new ideas come to me while I’m stuck in traffic or when I’m about to go to sleep. I always carry a little notebook with me wherever I am just in case I need to scribble down or sketch out the thought,” she says. If you haven’t figured it out by now, Chef Bambi holds fast to her traditional training. Not a big fan of “fusion” pastry, Bambi is savvy enough to know what will work in Manila. “I don’t do fusion so much because fusion can be deadly when not done properly or when the product is consumed by a public that’s not too aware of what’s going on. In the end, both our expatriate and local Filipino customers gravitate towards what they know and love. Infusing regional ingredients is great occasionally, but in the Philippines, expanding upon the classics is what works well for us,” says Chef Bambi. 38 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

这一早期认识使得 Bambi 的事业得以顺利延续,并赋予了她 亲自开办公司,发展管理才干的机会。然而,她从未失去那股“ 追求与众不同”的热情,并终于在2002年开办了自己的零售店铺 Kook&Luscious, 实现了自己的梦想。 颇具讽刺意义的是,第一家 Kooky & Luscious 店铺推出了众多 无糖甜品,因而在烹饪界轰动一时,这显然是对甜品界的一种另 类致敬。Bambi大厨解释说:“一开始我并没想推出无糖甜食,因 为当时可供选择的口味只有适中,甜味和低糖三种。然而, Splenda甜蜜素和Callebaut无糖巧克力上市后,我就独创了一系列 贴近天然的口味。在我们这个糖尿病肆虐的社会中,货真价实的 口味才能激起马尼拉充满健康意识的普通民众的拥护,而此举正 是紧紧扣住了这点。” 五年后,Kooky & Luscious 成为了一家马尼拉美食机构,旗下 店铺增至四家,而其创办者**那位西点梦想家也看到了价值链深 处的那片更富生机的绿茵。Bambi 说道:“我正在着手创建一家全 新品牌咖啡厅 — Kffe Damaso,旨在服务高端市场。我觉得公司 可以通过参与不同层次的市场活动而得益,我们也可以借此站在 潮流的尖端,屹立于这个善变的市场之巅。” 然而大获成功、贯彻未来扩展计划也是要付出代价的。朝七 晚十一,周一至周六连续主持自家生意 — Bambi 用“疯狂”来形 容自己的日常生活。虽然雇佣了大批的员工和管理人员,她依旧 事事亲历亲为,在店铺和客户间辗转奔走,还要满城跑,参加各 类会议。 无论是外表还是内在质量,Bambi 都力求完美,因此她对自己 的团队要求确实十分严格,也希望他们能在每天的工作中呈现出 最完美的一面。“我喜欢自己从事的工作,但为了获得成功,商 业方面的工作也占了我日常工作的很大一部分,而且业务工作也 并非总是充满趣味。培训员工是充满挑战性的,我必须不断地提 醒我自己:不是每个人都能像我一样,一次就领悟精髓……”这位满 脸倦意的大厨坦言。 然而,即使要完成如此繁忙的日常工作,Bambi Sy Gobio 还是 抽出时间推出了创新甜点, 虽然创作过程并不按标准流程操作。 “周围的一切都能给我灵感。也许我看到一块花纹奇特或是颜色 奇异的织物便会构思出一种新品蛋糕。多数时候新创意都是在我 遇到交通堵塞时或是准备上床睡觉前突然跃入脑海的。无论走到 哪里,我总是随身带着一本小笔记本,这样便可以迅速写下或是 画出我的创意,”她就此侃侃而谈。 说到现在,不知道你是否觉察到了一点,那就是 Chef Bambi 一贯严格遵守自己所受到的传统训练。虽然 Bambi 并非是一个“ 融合”西点的疯狂支持者,但她对于马尼拉人垂青何种美食显然 非常熟门熟路。“我不会经常去搞什么‘融合’, 因为稍有偏差, 或是产品针对的消费人群并不太在意产品口味的变化,这种‘融 合’的就会很糟糕。最终,无论是我们的国外客户还是菲律宾当 地的消费者都钟情于自己所熟知并喜爱的产品。有时,加入具有 地方风味的原料是不错选择,然而就菲律宾而言,扩展经典才是 行之有效的方法,”大厨 Bambi 评说道。

Cream Puffs with Chantilly Cream, Fresh Mangoes and Strawberries


Chocolate Eggs

LUSCIOUS NEST OF PASSION

巧克力蛋

美味西番莲果乐园

100 ml cream 奶油 100g bittersweet chocolate couverture

Meringue Decor

苦味朱古力 30 ml rum 朗姆酒

蛋白酥皮筒装饰

50g toasted coconut 烤椰肉

3 egg whites 蛋白 Dash salt 一小撮盐 1 cup sugar 一小杯糖

1. Boil cream and whisk in chocolate. 将奶油煮沸后加入巧克力搅拌。

2. Stir in rum.

1. Beat egg whites with salt until soft peaks form.

加入朗姆酒搅拌。

3. Chill and form into little eggs.

将鸡蛋白和盐湖和搅打至湿性发泡。

待混合物冷却后将其捏成小鸡蛋状。

2. Gradually add sugar and beat until glossy.

4. Roll in toasted coconut. 将巧克力蛋放入椰肉中滚一下。

逐渐加入糖并搅打混合物直至其平滑富 有光泽。

Garnish 装饰

3. Pipe onto silpat.

Piped Colored Chocolate Decor.

将混合物到在矽力康胶布上。

4. Bake at 120°C for 30 minutes. 放入120摄氏度烤箱内烘烤三十分钟。

裱花彩色巧克力装饰物。

250 ml butter, melted 融化黄油 250 ml passion fruit puree 西番莲果果泥

5. Leave in oven until crisp and dry. 将矽力康胶布静置于烤箱内直至成品成 干脆状。

1. Beat yolks and sugar. 将蛋黄和糖混合搅打。

2. Add melted butter and puree.

Truffle Cake 巧克力软糖蛋糕 250g bittersweet chocolate couverture 苦味朱古力

250 ml butter 黄油 6 egg yolks 蛋黄 200g sugar 糖 100g almonds, ground 研磨碎杏仁 6 egg whites 蛋白 Dash salt 一小撮盐

1. Heat butter and add chocolate. Whisk until chocolate melts. Set aside. 将黄油和巧克力混合加热并不断搅打直 至巧克力融化。静置一旁备用。

2. Beat yolks and sugar until light. 将鸡蛋黄和糖混合打发。

3. Fold in melted chocolate and ground almonds. 放入融化的巧克力及碎杏仁。

4. Beat whites with salt until soft peaks form. 将鸡蛋白和盐混合搅打直至湿性发泡。

5. Fold into chocolate mixture. 将上述混合物倒入巧克力混合物中。

6. Pour into greased molds. 在模具表面涂油润滑,并将上述混合物 倒入模具中。

7. Bake at 180°C for 30 minutes. 将其放入180摄氏度烤箱烘烤30分钟。

Passion Fruit Curd 西番莲果凝乳 8 egg yolks 蛋黄 250g sugar 糖

加入融化黄油和果泥。

3. Cook over a bain marie until thick. 将混合物放入双重蒸锅中蒸煮直至呈粘 稠状。

4. Strain and cool. 滤去杂质后静置冷却。

Passion Fruit Cream 西番莲果奶油酱 250 ml passion fruit curd 西番莲果凝乳 250 ml cream, whipped 打发奶油

Whisk together and set aside. 将上述两原料混合搅拌并静置一旁备用。

Dark Chocolate Cream 黑巧克力酱

SUGAR FREE BANANA CHIP BREAD PUDDING 无糖香蕉片面包布丁 1 loaf (300g) low carb sugar free bread, cubed and toasted 一个低碳水化合物无糖 面包(300克), 切成块状并加以烘烤

150g sugar free dark couverture, chopped 无糖黑朱古力150克, 切碎待用。

Custard 蛋奶沙司 6 eggs 鸡蛋 750 ml milk 牛奶 250 ml bananas, mashed 香蕉, 捣碎 1 cup Splenda (sugar substitute) Splenda 甜蜜素1小杯(代糖) 10 ml vanilla 香草 1/2 teaspoon cardamom 小豆蔻 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 肉桂 Dash salt 一小撮盐 150 ml butter, melted 融化黄油

250g bittersweet chocolate couverture 苦味朱古力 3 eggs 鸡蛋 100g sugar 糖

500 ml cream, whipped 打发奶油

1. Melt chocolate, set aside. 将巧克力融化后静置一旁备用。

2. Beat eggs and sugar over a bain marie until thick and light. 将鸡蛋和糖混放入双重蒸锅搅打至粘稠 发泡。

3. Fold in melted chocolate. 加入融化后的巧克力。

4. Cool. 冷却。

5. Whisk in cold whipped cream. 加入冷打发奶油并搅拌。

1. Combine ingredients in a blender. 将上述原料放入搅拌机中搅拌。

2. Pour in a bowl and toss in cubed bread and chopped chocolate. 将混合物倒入碗中,放入方形面包块及 碎巧克力。

3. Portion onto buttered molds and put in a bain marie. 在模具上涂一层黄油并将上述混合物逐 个分别到入其中,将模具放入双重蒸锅 中。

4. Bake in a 180°C oven for 30 minutes or until golden brown. 将其放入 180 摄氏度的烤炉中烘烤30分 钟或待成品表面呈金棕后取出。

5. Serve with sugar free crème anglaise. 佐以无糖奶油酱即可。

39


Korean Bakers

Kabocha

韩国甜南瓜

In this third installment of Korean Bakers, we examine the Kabocha or Korean sweet pumpkin. As always, we are honored by the contribution of the Korean Baker’s Association Technical Committee. 在“韩国烘焙师”系列连载之三中,我们将为读者们介绍韩国甜南瓜 (Kabocha)。 本次的连载同样得到了韩国面包师协会技术委员会的鼎力相助。

K

abocha is commonly called “Japanese pumpkin” or “sweet pumpkin” in Korea with its literal translation meaning “southern melon”. Regardless of what you call it, these pumpkin-like vegetables have a very hard exterior with deep green skin and boast exceptional flavor. With succulent, naturally sweet flesh, similar to that of a sweet potato crossed with a pumpkin, these natural treats are available year round, but we found the best flavors are harvested in the late summer and early fall.

K

abocha 按字面意思翻译即为“南瓜”, 因此, 在韩国, 人们通常会把 Kabocha 叫 做“日本南瓜”或者“甜南瓜”。尽管 名称有所差异,但实际上这就是一种和南瓜非常相似 的蔬菜, 外皮异常坚硬, 呈深绿色, 口味亦很出众。甜 南瓜富含浆汁,甜味自然天成,口感介于甘薯和南瓜 之间。这一天然美食四季皆有出产,但最佳品尝期却 是在夏末秋初之时。

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Pudding 布丁 60g egg yolk 蛋黄 100g egg white 蛋白 125g sugar 糖 450g milk 1/2 vanilla bean 香草豆荚半个 10g rum 朗姆酒 300g sweet pumpkin paste 甜南瓜酱

1. Boil milk, vanilla bean and sugar together and mix with yolk and whites. 将牛奶,香草豆荚及糖混合后煮沸并 加入蛋黄及蛋白,搅拌均匀。

2. Softly fold in pumpkin paste to milk mixture. 将南瓜酱轻轻放入牛奶混合物中。

3. Pour into pudding pan and bake in double boiler at 160ºC for 30 minutes. 将上述混合物倒入布丁模具中并放入双 重蒸锅,加热至160摄氏度,烘焙三 十分钟。

4. Cool down. 待其冷却。

5. Sprinkle sugar on the surface and torch to caramelize. 在成品表面撒上糖,用喷灯加热使其熔 化,在布丁表面形成焦糖。

NOTE: Pudding test: During bake, touch the pudding surface. If it is resilient and finger does not stick, the pudding is ready. 注意: 如何检验布丁是否烤熟: 在烘烤时, 轻 触布丁表面, 如布丁富弹性且不粘手,则可 停止烘烤。

Lim Gyeong-Nam is the Production Manager at Napoleon Bakery and offers his insight and recipes for Pumpkin Pudding and Sweet Pumpkin Puffs.With sweet pumpkin as an active baking ingredient gaining popularity in Korea, Chef Lim provides the building blocks for baking experimentation. Lim Gyeong-Nam 是拿破仑面包房的生产经 理, 在此次的连载中,他将与读者分享烹饪 甜南瓜美食的心得,并为大家奉上甜南瓜布 丁及甜南瓜泡芙的制作方法。随着甜南瓜这 一新生烘焙原料风靡整个韩国, Lim大厨的创 意将为大家的烘焙试验提供很不错的灵感。

Sweet Pumpkin Pudding 甜南瓜布丁 Sweet pumpkin paste 甜南瓜酱 500g pumpkin 南瓜 150g green apple (cored and skinned) 青苹果 (去核去皮) 40g sugar powder 糖粉 20g butter 黄油 10g white wine 白葡萄酒

1. Steam and sieve sweet pumpkin with skin and core removed. 将南瓜去皮去籽后蒸熟并滤去杂质。

2. Mix pumpkin with grinded apple, sugar, melted butter and white wine. Whisk until thick. Set aside. 将南瓜与苹果泥、糖、熔化黄油及白 葡萄酒混合后搅拌至粘稠状。静置一边 备用。 41


Korean Bakers

Sweet Pumpkin Puffs (Pâe ÀChoux) 甜南瓜泡芙 Sweet pumpkin custard cream 甜南瓜蛋奶酱 400g sweet pumpkin paste 甜南瓜酱 400g custard cream 蛋奶酱

1. Mix the two ingredients until smooth. 将上述两种原料混合搅打均匀。

Puff (Choux) 泡芙 225g milk牛奶 225g water 水 200g butter 黄油 20g sugar 糖 10g salt 盐 300g flour 面粉 500g egg 鸡蛋 100g sugar powder 糖粉 100g almond powder 杏仁粉 100g egg white 蛋白

42 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

1. Combine milk, water, butter, sugar and salt and bring to boil. 将牛奶,水,黄油,糖及盐混合 加热煮沸。

2. Reduce to simmer and add sifted flour and stir with wooden spoon until separates from the bottom of the pan. 将火调小, 以文火熬煮。将面粉滤去杂质并 加入混合物中,便加热边用木勺 搅拌,直至混合物脱离平底锅底 部。

3. Add whipped eggs, one at a time and mix until each egg is incorporated and the mixture is a medium, stiff consistency. 加入打发的鸡蛋,每次加入一只 鸡蛋的量并加以搅拌,直至鸡蛋 完全融入混合物中,并保证混合 物黏度适中。

4. Transfer mixture to a pastry bag and pipe 5cm diameter pieces onto a parchment-paper lined baking sheet. Apply egg wash and then top with sugar powder and almond powder. 再烘烤纸上铺上一层羊皮纸,将上述 混合物倒入奶油袋中,在纸上裱出直 径为5厘米的奶油团。刷上蛋水,然 后撒上糖粉及杏仁粉。

5. Bake at 200°C for 15 minutes and then lower the temperature to 160°C for another 10 minutes. 将其放入烤箱,在 200 摄氏度的环境 下烘烤15分钟, 然后将温度降低到 160 摄氏度, 再烘烤 10 分钟。

Assembly 制作步骤

1. Cool down puffs and make a hole in each. 待泡芙冷却后在中心位置戳出一只 洞。

2. Transfer custard cream to piping page and fill each puff. 将蛋奶浆倒在羊皮纸上,填入泡芙内 即可。


Sweet pumpkin puree 甜南瓜果泥 1,000g water 水 300g sugar 糖 1,000g sweet pumpkin 甜南瓜 100g sugar 糖 100g starch 淀粉 100g water 水

1. Peel off pumpkin skin and scoop out core. 将南瓜去皮后挖去南瓜籽。

2. Cut pumpkin into appropriate sizes for easy boiling. Add to pot with water and sugar. 将南瓜切成大小适中的碎块, 以便熬煮 。将南瓜放入锅中, 并加入水和糖。

3. Bring to boil and drain. 将南瓜加热煮沸并滤干。

4. Return to pot and add 100g sugar, 100g starch syrup and 100g water. Reduce.

Our second technical advisor, Hwang Jeong Tae, Production Manager at Le Cordon Bleu Korea, likes to incorporate his own, home made sweet pumpkin puree into traditional pastry products. Jeong Tae prefers making his own puree as he finds those offered on the market are far too mild in flavor. Additionally, when he makes his own, he can produce large batches and with proper containment, the puree will last months in the freezer. When making sweet pumpkin puree, Chef Hwang Jeong Tae recommends adding water and sugar to the pure pumpkin in order to provide stability for use in cakes and bread. Adding the water and sugar will provide greater viscosity and sweetness. 我们请到的第二位技术顾问是来自 Le Cordon Bleu Korea 的生产经理 Hwang Jeong Tae, 他将独门自制的甜南瓜果泥融入传统西 点产品之中。Jeong Tae 喜欢自己动手制作 果泥,因为他觉得市面上出售的果泥产品 口味太淡。而且,亲手制作果泥不仅可以 保证大批量生产,只要密封储藏得当,果 泥的冷冻保鲜期也可长达数月。 Hwang Jeong Tae 大厨建议读者在制作甜 南瓜果泥时在纯南瓜肉中加入水及糖,这 样可使果泥稳定性更佳,更适于制作蛋糕 面包。而且,加入水和糖还能大大增加果 泥黏度及甜度。

将南瓜再次放入锅中, 加入100克糖, 100 克淀粉糖浆及100克水。将其熬煮成浓 缩混合物。

Sweet Pumpkin Mousse Cake 甜南瓜慕丝蛋糕

停止加热,将上述糊状物放入电动搅拌 机中以中高速搅打直至其冷 却,体积膨胀,呈淡黄色略微粘稠状混 合物。搅拌时间约为7至10分 钟。小心加入面粉,用烹调铲搅拌直至 面粉完全融入混合物。

3. Fill buttered and parchment paperlined round cake pan 3/4 full with batter. Bake in a preheated 176°C oven until well-risen and golden brown, about 30 minutes. 在圆形蛋糕模具表面涂上黄油,并铺上 一层羊皮纸,然后倒入糊状混合物,体 积约占模具容积的四分之三。将烤炉预 热至摄氏176度,放入模具烘烤,直至蛋 糕体积完全膨 胀,表面呈金棕色。烘烤时间约为30分 钟。

4. Let the genoise cool slightly. Unmold, remove parchment paper and finish cooling on a wire rack. 待海绵蛋糕稍稍冷却后即可脱模,撕去 羊皮纸,将海绵蛋糕放置在架子上彻底 冷却。

Sweet pumpkin mousse 甜南瓜慕丝 600g milk 牛奶 200g yolk 鸡蛋黄 200g sugar 糖 800g sweet pumpkin puree 甜南瓜 30g gelatin 明胶 1,300 whipping cream 打发奶油

Genoise 海绵蛋糕 80g powdered sugar 糖粉 100g almond powder 杏仁粉 30g soft flour 低筋面粉 150g egg yolk 鸡蛋黄 20g butter 黄油 130g eggs 鸡蛋 60g sugar 糖

1. Assemble double boiler. Once ready, place eggs, yolk and sugar in the mixing bowl and make egg foam by whisking about 7 to 10 minutes. 准备好双重蒸锅。将鸡蛋,蛋黄和糖 放入搅拌容器中,混合搅打7到10分钟 ,直至鸡蛋发泡。将容器放入蒸锅中 加热。

2. Remove bowl from heat and whip the batter with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until it cools, increases in volume, stiffens slightly and becomes pale yellow, about 7 to 10 minutes. Carefully, fold in the flour with a rubber spatula until the flour is no longer visible.

1. Mix yolk and sugar well and place over heat, adding milk little by little keeping the temperature under 80°C. 将鸡蛋黄和糖混合搅打均匀, 放至炉上加 热, 分批少量加入牛奶, 注意,将加热温 度保持在80摄氏度以下。

2. Add soaked gelatin, softly mixing in sweet pumpkin puree and fresh whipping cream. 加入软化明胶,轻轻拌入甜南瓜果泥及 鲜打发奶油。

Assembly 制作步骤

1. Cool down the baked genoise and cut it with a rectangular mold and slice horizontally into three layers. 待烘烤好的海绵蛋糕冷却后用长方形模 具将其切割成型,并横向切割成三层薄 片。

2. Add back the first layer of the genoise to the bottom of the rectangular mold and spread 1/3 of sweet pumpkin mousse and cover with another layer of genoise. Repeat until all three layers are built upon the mousse. 43


Korean Bakers 将第一层海绵蛋糕薄片铺在长方形模具底 部,将三分之一的甜南瓜慕丝涂在蛋糕表 面,然后铺上另一片海绵蛋糕薄片。重复 以上操作直至三层海绵蛋糕之间均涂满慕 丝为止。

3. Place in refrigerator to harden. 将模具放入冰箱,静置待其凝固。

4. Remove from refrigerator and cover with feuilletine. Decorate with fruit and chocolate decorations. 从冰箱中取出模具,在蛋糕表面洒上脆皮 饼干碎片。用水果及巧克力装饰即可。

Sweet Pumpkin Cheese Roll 甜南瓜芝士卷 Dough* 面团 800g hard flour 高筋面粉 200g soft flour 低筋面粉 300g steamed sweet pumpkin 蒸熟甜南瓜

44 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

200g butter 黄油 120g sugar 糖 10g baking agent 焙烤用面坯疏松剂 20g salt 盐 200g egg 鸡蛋 300g water 水 300g milk 牛奶 40g yeast 酵母 200g diced pumpkin 南瓜丁 200g mozzarella cheese 莫泽雷勒芝士 100g icing 糖霜 50g pumpkin seeds 南瓜籽

1. Mix all ingredients except butter into a ball. Then add butter and lightly mix again. 将除黄油外的所有原料混合揉捏成球 状,然后加入黄油,轻轻混合。

2. Ferment at 27°C humidity of 80 percent for 50 minutes. 将混合面粉团放置在 27 摄氏度的环 境中发酵 50 分钟,湿度约为百分之八 十。

3. Divide into 250g pieces and let rest for 10 minutes. 将面团分为若干重 250 克的小块,放置 10 分钟。

4. Spread dough pieces and add diced pumpkin and cheese to each. 将面团逐个延展铺平,加入南瓜丁和芝 士。

5. Proof dough at 32°C humidity of 80 percent for 40 minutes. 将面团放置在 32 摄氏度的环境中发酵 40 分钟,湿度保持在百分之八十。

6. Lay pieces on metal tray and bake at 180°C for 30 minutes. 将面片放置在金属托盘中,放入 180 摄 氏度的烤箱中烘烤 30 分钟。

Assembly 制作步骤

Remove from oven and drizzle with icing and pumpkin seeds. Allow to cool. 将托盘从烤箱中取出, 撒上糖霜及南瓜 籽。冷却后即可食用。


45


Frozen Desserts

Italian Delights

By Palmiro Bruschi Photos by Giancarlo Bononi

Spelt Gelato 无麦冰激凌 White base 纯白底座

Spelt ice-cream 无麦冰激凌

1850g milk 牛奶 500g spelt 无麦 450g cream 奶油 150g sugar 糖 500g saccharose 蔗糖 1000g milk 牛奶 125g dextrose 葡萄糖 vanilla bean n. 1 香草豆荚一只 5g neutral 中性剂 salt to taste 按口味准备适量盐

46 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

1. Soak the wheat in water the evening before, then cook it with the sugar, milk and vanilla bean until all the milk has been absorbed. 制作前一天晚上先将麦子浸入水中,过夜后 加入糖、牛奶和香草豆混合熬煮直至麦子收 干所有牛奶。 2. Add 3 kg of white base and then cream. 加入3克纯白底料并搅拌至凝乳状。


Frozen Desserts

Chocolate and Kentucky tobacco gelato 巧克力肯塔基烟草冰激凌 1000g milk 牛奶 200g saccharose 蔗糖 150g dextrose 葡萄糖 70g cocoa 22/24 高脂可可粉 30g black tobacco 黑烟草

48 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

1. Allow the tobacco to brew for one minute from the moment the chocolate base begins to boil, and then remove immediately. 待巧克力底料开始沸腾后撒入烟草,等待一分钟,待烟草泡开后 立刻将其滤去。 2. Allow to cool and then cream. 待混合物冷却后搅打至凝乳状。 3. If done cold, the procedure requires about 30 minutes of brewing time. 如做冷处理,则应在操作过程中预留30分钟的酿造时间。


Frozen Desserts

Poolside shadows 池边倩影 2 spoons of crushed ice 两勺碎冰 80g strawberry ice-cream 草莓冰激凌 80g peach tree 桃树 1 cl Cointreau 君度力娇酒1厘升 1 cl Campari 金巴利酒1厘升 1 cl white rum 白朗姆酒1厘升 4 cl water 水 5 strawberries 草莓 1. Mix all the ingredients in a blender. 将上述所有原料放入搅拌机中。 2. Pour into a glass of your liking or a rummer and decorate with strawberries. 按各人喜好将搅拌后的混合物倒入玻璃杯或 大酒杯中,并用草莓修饰即可。 Courtesy of Pasticceria Internazionale

50 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


Confetteria

GELATERIA

Gastronomia

Confezionamento

Poste Italiane S.p.A. - Spedizione in Abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB To N. 9/2006

'LIINGREDIENTIDELTUOSUCCESSO

WWWUNIGRAIT

nº 197 Anno XXIX

novembre - dicembre 2006 CHIRIOTTI

EDITORI

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SINCE THE MEETING POINT OF PASTRY CHEFS GELATO MAKERS CHOCOLATIERS AND CHEFS

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Bakery in Focus

Korean Master Baker 韩国面包制作大师

Hard work, global perspective and the determination to be the best lands KimYoung Mo at the top of the Korean baking industry. 刻苦努力,全球视野,追求卓越 – 正是这样, Kim Young Mo 才得以在韩国烘焙行业独占鳌头。 By Peter Chan Photography courtesy Dream Character, Inc.

52 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


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Bakery in Focus Cover of award winning cookbook

Display case

The shop

I

n the dictionary, success is defined as “a degree or measure of succeeding with a favorable or desired outcome”. To me, that sounds too clinical, understated and not reflective of the true meaning of the word as used in today’s results driven society. When someone is referred to as a “success”, typically, the speaker is referencing that person’s professional accomplishments. When applied to Chef Kim Young Mo, the reference need apply to every aspect of his life and the multiple hats he wears everyday as a devoted father and loving husband, industry leader, international culinary icon, award winning author, mentor, TV personality and passionate baker who built, from scratch, Korea’s top bakery. Whew! That’s a lot of hats. Known for his accessible demeanor, tireless work ethic and culinary flair, Kim Young Mo is an institution in Korea. For good reason. As the Chairman of the 15,000 member strong Korean Bakers Association and international representative to innumerable event/competitions/culinary associations, Kim Young Mo is considered the father of modern day Korean baking. He is the benchmark by which all others below the 38th Parallel are measured. At the age of 11, a very curious Kim Young Mo was drawn to the sweet side. “There was a local bakery across from my elementary school. l loved looking at the sugar coated doughnuts. Back then, sugar was expensive in Korea and I think that’s when I started to wonder about the bread and desserts,” say Chef Kim. But he would have to wait until the age of 17 to get his first encounter with the craft that would redefine his life. Without any formal training, Kim Young Mo jumped at the chance when offered a job at a local Seoul bakery. “I can still remember the first time I touched the flour. I worked day and night, learning to bake anything and everything I 54 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

could. Hearing the praise and delight from customers brought immeasurable pride and joy to my life and I decided then that I wanted to be the best dessert chef around,” says Kim Young Mo. Once immersed, there was no turning back for Chef Kim who worked simultaneously at two bakeries early on in his career. On top of his punishing schedule, Kim Young Mo dedicated any free time and his savings to the pursuit of broadening his culinary appreciation. Traveling extensively to countries with rich tradition in pastry and baking, Chef Kim’s exposure to a global interpretation of dessert would influence not only his work product, but the manner in which he approaches the business. 12 years after his magical encounter with flour, Chef Kim made the leap to entrepreneurship and opened the first Kim Young Mo Bakery. Besides the standard pressure associated with any new business, Chef Kim deliberately used his own name in the title as a reminder of the promise he made to himself to establish Korea’s finest bakery. Today, there are four outlets of Kim Young Mo Bakery and a European-style café called Salon de Kim Young Mo. Living up to his initial promise, Chef Kim continues to lead the industry by example with his commitment to quality. “I have always put the quality of the products at my bakery first and that will never change. Using only the best quality ingredients, hand-made breads and fresh made pastries, I have acquired a wide variety of customers. It brings me the greatest pleasure to see everyone, from children to adults, from Koreans to foreign visitors, enjoying my creations,” says Chef Kim. Leveraging his early globe trotting, fact finding missions and his continual representation of Korea on the international stage, Chef Kim stays ahead of the gastronomic curb by marrying tradition European concepts with Asian influences.


Chef Kim at work

Plated dessert

The best selling Korean cookbook

典对成功这个名词的解释是“一种判定成功的度量 ,通常指取得积极或预想结果。”在我看来,这种 解释未免太过机械保守,且无法反映出这个词在当 今这个一切以结果为评判标准的社会中的真正含义。当我们说某 个人是个“成功人士”的时候,通常,我们指的是这个人在事业 上的成就。然而,说到Kim Young Mo大厨,“成功”则渗透在他 生活的方方面面,包括他每天扮演的多重角色**一位全心付出的 父亲,同时也是一位关爱妻子的丈夫;一位业界领袖,同时也是 国际烹饪界巨腕;一位喜获殊荣的作家,导师,电视名人,同时 也是一位白手起家,建立起韩国顶级面包房的热心面包师。哇! 好一位多面手啊。 Kim Young Mo那平易近人的态度,孜孜不倦的职业精神和烹 饪天赋早为人们所熟知,同时,他本人也是韩国国宝级人物。这 样头衔对他而言确是名副其实。作为拥有15,000名会员,实力雄 厚的韩国面包师协会主席,他曾作为国际代表参与并加盟了数不 胜数的业界盛事,竞赛及烹饪协会。Kim Young Mo是公认的韩国 现代烘焙之父,也成了这个位于三八线南部的国家评价其烘焙专 业人士的标准基石。 11岁那年,充满好奇的Kim Young Mo一头栽进了甜点世界。 “在我就读的小学的那条路上有一家面包房。我喜欢看那些裹着 糖粉的甜甜圈。那个时候,糖在韩国是一种奢侈品。我想就是那 个时候开始,我对面包和甜点产生了兴趣,”Kim大厨回忆道。但 直到17岁,他才第一次真正接触到了这项足以改写他人生的手艺。 虽然之前没有接受过任何的正规培训,但汉城当地一家面包房 的录取通知仍让他跃跃欲试。“我依旧记得第一次接触面粉的情 形。我日以继夜地工作着,学习烘烤我能尝试制作的所有面点。顾 客愉悦的赞美之辞为我的生活注入了无尽的自豪与幸福。从此, 我便下决心要做韩国最好的甜点大厨。”Kim Young Mo说道。 一旦全情投入,Kim大厨就变得义无反顾,勇往直前。在事业 发展初期,他同时在两家面包房任职。在繁忙的工作之余,Kim

Young Mo还利用业余时间,花费个人积蓄,不断加深自己将对 于烹饪艺术的理解。他游遍西点烘焙之乡,接触到了全球西点 艺术,这不仅影响着他的作品,还决定着他的从业态度。 十二年前,Kim大厨与面粉神奇结缘;十二年后,他完成了 飞跃,成为一名创业人,开办了第一家Kim Young Mo面包房 。他有意将自己的名字运用在店名中,这不仅是受新店取名方 面的行规限制,同时也是为了时刻提醒自己曾暗自许下的一个 诺言**争取建立韩国最好的面包房。 如今,Kim Young Mo面包房旗下已拥有四家零售店铺及一 家名为Kim Young Mo沙龙的欧式咖啡馆。在实现自己最初的承 诺后,Kim大厨继续发挥榜样力量,以对品质的执著引领着整 个业界。“我总是将产品的质量作为面包房的重中之重,这点 是不会改变的。由于只选用最优质的原料,坚持提供手工制作 的面包和刚出炉的西点,我赢得了各阶层的客户。能看到每一 个顾客,无论是孩子还是大人,无论是韩国本地人还是外国旅 游者,都对我的美食创作津津乐道,我感到非常快乐。” Kim 大厨如是说。 凭借着早期的环球游历,对于业内情况的真实了解及不断代 表韩国登上国际舞台的丰富资历,Kim大厨将传统欧洲理念及 亚洲风味融为一体,从而成为挑战美食极限的领军人物。“比 起欧洲人,亚洲消费者普遍喜欢口感更松软的面包。传统欧洲 烘焙产品最初传入韩国的时候,韩国人简直难以接受。我感觉 激活欧式面包糕点最好的方法便是融入亚洲元素。老实说,亚 洲元素同欧式烘焙的结合是不可避免的。我不觉得这种融合会 让厨师偏废传统元素,相反地,我觉得这么做反而能够鼓励亚 洲厨师彻底了解烘焙的本质,从而使他们今后职业探索之路上 的发挥空间更为宽广。” 每一位雄心勃勃的韩国西点大厨和面包师都渴望能在Kim Young Mo面包房的下设店铺工作。面包房采用了欧洲学徒体系, 因此,Kim大厨既是指点工艺的师傅又是老板,他不仅在指导

55


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22/6/07 12:36:09 PM


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Australia: 1800 633 275 China: (86 21) 5211 0999 Hong Kong: (852) 2958 1333 Indonesia: 806206018005 Korea: +86-2-6001-3773

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22/6/07 12:36:09 PM


Bakery in Focus “Asians generally like softer bread than Europeans. When traditional European baking was first introduced in Korea, it was too different for the Korean taste. I felt an “Asian Fusion” approach was required to best initiate European breads and cakes. Frankly speaking, combining Asian style to European baking couldn’t be avoided. I don’t think this fusion concept is pulling chefs away from traditional elements but rather encouraging Asian based chefs to acquire a strong fundamental understanding which will then allow them more latitude towards exploration.” For aspiring Korean pastry chefs and bakers, a position at any of Kim Young Mo outlets is highly coveted. Following the tradition European apprentice model, Chef Kim is part task master and boss, part mentor and molder of Korea’s next generation of dessert professionals. With a staff of over 100 chefs and assistants, Kim Young Mo provides a fertile environment for experience and education. “Most of the chefs came to me to learn, and many of them ended up staying more than 10 years. They, too, are my family. My goal is for each one of them to become a better dessert chef than me someday and to lead the baking industry in Korea,” explains Chef Kim proudly. Chef Kim’s magnetic inspiration and zeal is not confined to the thousands of apprentices who have attentively soaked up his direction. By living under the same roof as the Korean Master, Kim Young Hoon, Chef Kim’s youngest son, is well down the path to culinary stardom. As a Korean team member to the 2003 Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie and the 2004 World Pastry Team Championship, Kim Young Hoon, much like his father, places a high value on

Walnut Red Wine Bread 58 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

global exposure and broadening his culinary prospective. For those reasons, starting in September 2007, the young pastry chef will leave Korea for a 3 year sabbatical in France to better hone his fundamentals. Like father, like son. “I’m very happy about him following my footsteps. I believe that ‘taste’ is the most important element in any dessert and I have instilled this in Kim Young Hoon. His stay in France will prepare him for meeting and exceeding this philosophy,” says Chef Kim. For those of you who were fortunate enough to attend this year’s Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in Lyon, no doubt you saw Kim Young Mo take his place at the judge’s table. Invited by long time friend and professional colleague, Gabiel Paillasson, Chef Kim was bestowed the title of President of Honour and headed the committee along with International Jury President Christophe Michalak. When asked his opinion on international competitions and whether the focus on visual appeal dilutes everyday skills, Chef Kim offered the following: “International competitions are very much needed in this industry. These events provide the opportunity to see new techniques and application. Yes, the visual presentation is important and may slightly bring down the practicality. However, through those who create different and exotic styling, new techniques and skills get developed and that is far more important. The competitions held in Europe and the US are great. But, I hope to see more international pastry competitions held in Asia, providing a forum for regional chefs to communicate and share their developments.” Ever the humble professional, Chef Kim is extremely proud of his cookbooks but is reserved in discussing their overwhelming


学生,也在培养韩国新一代甜品专家。Kim Young Mo面包房共 有100多位厨师和助理员工,Kim Young Mo为他们提供了一 个学习实践的绝佳环境。“大多数的厨师来我这里都是学习的, 结果其中很多一呆就是十多年。他们就像我的家人一样。我的目 标就是有朝一日把他们统统打造成比我更加优秀的甜点大厨,让 他们领导韩国的烘焙行业。” Kim大厨骄傲地说。 Kim大厨鼓舞人心的话语和激情不仅仅造就出了数以千计悉心 接受其教诲的学徒,这位韩国大师的小儿子,与 Kim 生活在同 一屋檐下的Kim Young Hoo,也同样顺利地走上了通往烹饪名家 之路。 作为2003世界糕点制作大赛及2004世界西点团队冠 军赛韩国代表队成员之一,Kim Young Hoo和父亲同样认为登上 国际舞台意义重大,并不断拓展着自己的烹饪前景。因此,从 2007年9月开始,这位年轻的西点大厨将会离开韩国,踏上 为期三年的法国学习之旅,以期再次雕琢基本技艺。果然是虎父 无犬子。 “我很高兴儿子能继承我的衣钵。我深信无论是什么甜品, ‘口味’都是最重要的一点。这一点我已彻底灌输给了Kim Young Hoo。在法国的学习经历一定会帮助他了解并超越这一理念,” Kim大厨说道。 如果您有幸参加今年在里昂举行的世界糕点制作大赛,您一 定会看到坐在评审席上的Kim Young Mo。Kim大厨应老友及业 内同仁Gabiel Paillasson的邀请担任荣誉主席一职,并将与国际评 审主席Christophe Michalak一同主持大赛委员会。 当被问及对于国际竞赛的感想及专注于视觉效果是否会淡化 基本技巧时,Kim大厨如此回应:“业界非常需要国际性竞赛。 这些赛事为我们提供了接触新技术及其运用方法的机会。的确, 外观视觉非常重要,可能会稍稍影响实用性。然而,正是因为参 赛者创作了这些充满异国情调的非常规作品,新技术才能得到发 展,而这一点更为重要。欧洲和美国举办的赛事非常棒。然而, 我希望看到更多的国际西点比赛在亚洲举办,为我们亚洲的厨师 们提供一个交流分享成长经验的平台。”

Mentor and father

Kim大厨是一位谦虚的西点专家,但他对自己撰写的几本烹饪 书籍颇为自豪,不过对于这些书籍的疯狂热销及在全球范围内的 影响力,这位大厨倒是不愿多谈。Kim大厨曾在吉隆坡美食世界 烹饪书籍大奖上一举摘得“2005年全球最佳甜点类书籍”桂冠。 书籍似乎成了这位美食教育家传授技艺的最佳渠道。“我喜欢撰 写烹饪书籍,也喜欢在书中和大家分享技巧和菜谱。我努力做到 使自己的菜谱对普通烘焙爱好者和专业人士同样适用。毕竟,与 大家分享菜谱及制作技巧会鼓励我更努力地工作,开发出更好的 菜式。” 新书即将付梓,有更多时间与妻子共处,看着自己的烘焙事 业将来在小儿子的带领下逐步成长,此刻的 Kim 大厨师是幸福 的。看着他依旧日复一日地忙碌于Kim Young Mo面包房的日常 工作,我想,这位韩国面包烘焙大师真正诠释了成功的真谛。

Crowded Shop

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Bakery in Focus 7. Bake in preheated oven at 220°C for 6 minutes. Remove and cool on rack. 烤炉预热至摄氏220度,将平底锅放入其中烘烤6分钟。停 止烘烤并放在架子上待其冷却。

8. Once completely cool, remove paper and cut sponge into 4 squares. 蛋糕完全冷却后,移去羊皮纸并将蛋糕切成4块正方体。

Green Tea Cream 绿茶酱 10g green tea powder 绿茶粉 20g orange liqueur 香橙利口酒 150g unsalted butter 鲜黄油 300g custard cream 蛋奶酱 Husband and author

Green Tea Cake

1. Combine green tea powder and orange liqueur in a bowl. Mix. 将绿茶粉和香橙利口酒倒入碗中混合搅拌。

绿茶蛋糕

2. In a separate bowl, beat the butter for 1-2 minutes.

Green Tea Sponge

3. Add custard crème to the butter and whisk a few times, then add the green tea powder and liqueur and whisk together.

绿茶海绵蛋糕 50g milk 牛奶 8g green tea powder 绿茶粉 60g egg yolks 鸡蛋黄 17g sugar (1st) 糖(一) 67g cake flour 蛋糕面粉 17g almond flour 杏仁面粉 2g vanilla extract 香草精华 33g unsalted butter 鲜黄油 90g egg whites 蛋白 100g sugar (2nd) 糖(二)

1. Combine milk and green tea powder in a pot and bring to boil. Once boiling, turn off heat. 将牛奶及绿茶粉放入锅中加热。煮沸后停止加热。

2. Beat the egg yolks and 1st sugar in a bowl for about one minute. Then, add the milk mixture little by little while beating the batter. Continue for 2-3 minutes.

另取一碗,放入黄油,搅拌一至二分钟。

在黄油中加入蛋奶酱,搅拌几分钟,然后再加入绿茶粉和利口 酒混合物,搅打均匀即可。

Assembly 主体制作 Sweet red beans (canned) 甜蜜红豆(罐装) Gold leaf 金箔

1. Spread the green tea cream over the bottom sponge, sprinkle on the sweet red beans and apply a thin layer of cream again. Put another sponge on top and repeat. 用一块绿茶海绵蛋糕打底,在表面涂上一层绿茶酱,撒上甜蜜 红豆,然后再涂上一层薄薄的绿茶酱。盖上另一块海绵蛋糕并 重复以上操作。

2. Adorn the top with more sweet red beans and gold leaf. 在成品顶部用甜蜜红豆和金箔修饰即可。

在碗中加入鸡蛋黄及糖(一),混合搅打一分钟左右。少量分 批倒入牛奶混合物并搅拌糊状物。搅打二至三分钟。

3. In a separate bowl, combine egg whites and 2nd sugar and make a stiff meringue. 另取一碗,放入蛋白及糖(二),搅拌成浓稠蛋白霜。

4. Fold in half of the meringue to the milk mixture and then add sifted cake flour and almond flour. Continuing folding and add melted butter. Mix. 将一半的蛋白霜轻轻放入牛奶混合物中搅拌。将蛋糕面粉及杏 仁面粉混合后筛去杂质,并倒入上述混合物中。继续搅打并加 入融化黄油。混合搅打。

5. Add the remaining meringue and vanilla extract and gently fold in. 将剩余的蛋白霜及香草精华倒入上述混合物中并轻轻拌匀。

6. Pour the batter onto a greased or parchment lined rectangular cake pan (38cm X 28cm). 准备一只38厘米 x28厘米的长方形蛋糕平底锅,在锅子表 面涂上油或者铺上一层羊皮纸,并将糊状混合物倒在锅中。 60 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

International judge and Korean representative


Green Tea Cake 61


Bakery in Focus

62 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific


Hungry Eyes food photography dragon@hungryeyes.com.cn

63


Baking Fundamentals

Laminated Dough: Fermentation and Fat Layering 分层面团: 发酵及油脂叠层

Roy Chung was educated as an engineer at the Ungku Omar Polytechnic in Malaysia. He graduated from the American Institute of Baking, the National Baking Center and the San Francisco Baking Institute in the U.S.A. Mr. Chung has been a full-time bakery consultant for U.S. Wheat Associates in the South Asia region since 1979 and is based in Singapore. He provides baking education in several baking schools, predominantly in Thailand, Sri Lanka and China. Roy Chung曾在马来西亚奥马 尔理工学院学习工科。后毕 业于美国烘焙学院、全国烘 焙中心及美国旧金山烘焙学 院。钟先生1979年起担任美 国小麦协会驻南亚地区全职 烘焙顾问,现常驻新加坡。 他主要在泰国、斯里兰卡及 中国的多家烘焙学院主讲相 关课程。

64 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

The dough is rounded to form a smooth surface. In the following series of pictures, the dough has been dyed red for better illustration. This is for educational purpose only and is done to have a better contrast when the layering fat is added. 将面团搓圆直至表面光滑。为便于说明讲解,我们将以下的一系列照片中的面团染成了红色。 么做纯粹是出于教学需要,主要是为了在添加叠层油脂时突出对比效果。

Fermentation and dough preparation before lamination During the dough mixing process, the dough would have been punished. If the dough was processed immediately, it would result in shrinkage and distortion of the dough sheet. Thus, it is best to allow the dough to relax before the next step of incorporating the fat. Depending on the end results required, the dough may or may not be fermented before incorporating the layering fat. Fermentation will result in finished products attaining better flavor, taste and eating quality. If a pre-ferment is added during dough mixing, the dough merely requires a short resting period prior to layering fat incorporation. If the dough is to be fermented overnight, the dough should be rounded to forms a smooth surface before placing it in an airtight container to prevent skinning or drying out. The dough is then fermented for a short period of time (30 to 60 minutes in

room temperature) before the container is transferred to a chiller (6°C) for over night fermentation and conditioning. In cases where a very short resting period (30 minutes or less) is given before layering fat incorporation, additives or dough conditioners may be used to modify dough behavior during processing and final proofing. In whichever methods used, the dough will still require some form of preparation prior to layering fat incorporation.

分层前的面团发酵及准备工作 在混合的过程中,面团可能会受损。如果 立刻加工面团,则可能造成其体积收缩, 使面皮变形。因此,最好先将面团静置片 刻再进行下一步混入油脂的操作。 根据最终成品的不同要求,在往面团 里混入叠层油脂之前,可以先发酵面团, 也可以不做发酵。发酵会使成品风味口感 及质量更佳。如果在混合面团的过程中进 行了预发,则面团在混入叠层油脂前只须 经过短时静置。如果面团需要隔夜发酵,


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4. 2. Gradually sheet on reversible sheeter and adjust to the approximate size as dictated by the layering fat size and the layering fat incorporation method. 用可逆式压片机慢慢将面团压成薄片,并根据叠层油脂 的大小及叠层方法调整面皮大小。

3. Stretch out the dough to all four corners to form a uniform rectangular shape. 将面皮沿四角方向延展,直至其呈均匀长方形。

4. The dough sheet is then transferred to a flat sheet lined with a non stick surface.

5. 则必须将其搓成表面光滑的圆球状,然后放入密闭容器中以 防止表面变硬或吸干。 然后将面团进行短时发酵 (在室温条件下发酵30到60分钟),再 将容器转移到冷藏室(6摄氏度)放置一夜,发酵备用。 如果混入叠层油脂前预留的静置时间非常短(30分钟或不到 30分钟),那么我们可以加入添加剂或者面团调理剂来保证在加 工及最终发酵过后得到更优质的面团。 无论是使用何种方法,我们都应该在向面团里混入叠层油脂 之前先做一些准备工作。

1. The dough is dusted with a small amount of flour and flattened in preparation for sheeting. 在面团的表面洒上少量的面粉,然后将其压平,准备压片。

将面皮放置到表面无粘性的平板上。

5. Cover dough completely with plastic sheet to prevent crusting and then transfer to a chiller for the resting period prior to layering fat incorporation. 用塑料薄膜覆盖面皮以防止其变硬,然后将其放入冷藏 室中静置,准备混入叠层油脂。

Incorporating the layering fat 混入叠层油脂 This is an important step and there are three methods of incorporating the fat: 这个步骤非常重要,总共有三种混入油脂的方法:

1. French method 法国法 2. English method 英国法 3. Blitz method, also known as the cut in method or the quick method. 闪电法,又叫插入法或快速法

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Baking Fundamentals

The French Method

法国法

In this method, the conditioned fat layer is completely enveloped by the dough before the start of the lamination (rolling and folding) process. This is best illustrated with a step by step picture sequence as follows:

运用这种方法时,我们必须在开始分层操作(卷滚,折叠) 前用面团将需加工的油脂层完全包裹起来。以下的图片清楚 地说明了先后步骤:

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6. The rested dough sheet is removed from the chiller and laid flat onto a flour dusted surface.

6. 在加工台表面洒上一层面粉,将经静置后的面皮从 冰箱中取出,平放在加工台上。

7. The conditioned fat sheet is laid atop the dough and the size of the dough sheet is “adjusted”. The objective here is to re-shape the dough sheet so the vertical edges on each side of the dough meet at the center (with minimum overlap) when enveloping the fat. When the dough sheet has been properly sized (with the fat in its proper place atop the dough) mark the position of the fat edges on the dough surface.

7. 将加工过的油脂片放在面皮上, 并调整面皮的大小。 这么做是为了调节面皮的形状,从而保证在包裹油 脂层时面皮的两条竖边恰好可以在中心位置相接( 保证重叠面积最小)。将面皮调节到适当大小后( 将油脂放置在面皮表面适当位置),在面皮表面作 记号,标示出油脂层边缘在面皮上的位置。

8. Use a thin wooden pin to create a trough at the marked position. This is done for both the marked positions (edge of the layering fat) so the dough thickness at those positions is much thinner than the rest of the dough sheet.

8. 用一只细木钉在标记位置压出一根凹槽,这样既可 以标示位置(油脂层边缘位置),又可以使这些位 置的面片厚度较之其他位置更薄。

9. The dough sheet is folded over to cover the layering fat with a slight overlap at the joint. The fat is left exposed along the horizontal sides. NOTE: The reason for making the trough on the dough sheet was to obtain very thin dough thickness at the folding positions along the edges of the layering fat.

9. 将面片对折,相接处稍稍重叠,纵向包裹住叠层油 脂。横向边缘上的叠层油脂则无须包裹。注意:在 面皮上划出凹槽是为了使沿叠层油脂位置折叠的面 皮厚度较薄。

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10. Dough thickness along the edges will affect fat distribution later on during the lamination stages. Hence, thin dough along the vertical folded edges will result in more uniform fat distribution when sheeted. The layering fat exposed on the horizontal edges will not affect the end result of the lamination as the next folding steps will cover it. It is also preferable to make the dough joint at the center of the layering fat position as the dough shape will not distort and will be more uniform during the sheeting stages. 11: The dough height (with the layering fat inside) will be too thick for the reversible sheeter; hence, it is necessary to pin the dough down further to reduce its height before feeding into the sheeter. 12. Place the dough sheet with the exposed edge facing you and gradually reduce the thickness until the length is approximately equal to or slightly longer than the width. Turn the dough sheet 90 degrees (with the exposed layering fat along the direction of travel for the belt) and commence sheeting to reduce the dough thickness until the length is approximate 2.5 to 3 times the width. 13. At this stage, the dough sheet has only one layer of fat. The corners can be stretched so that the shape of the dough sheet is rectangular. The dough sheet is then ready for the next step – the lamination process.

10. 边缘位置的面皮厚度将会在之后的分层步骤中影 响油脂的分布。因此,沿竖直边缘方向折叠的较 薄面皮可以在压片时保证油脂更加均匀的分布。 而未被包裹住的横向边缘上的叠层油脂则不会影 响到最终的分层,因为再经过几次折叠后,它们 就会被完全覆盖。最好能够使面皮的边缘在叠层 油脂的中心位置处接合,因为这样面皮就不会发 生形变,而且还可以使压出的面皮更加均匀。 11. 此时面皮(包括内部的叠层油脂)对可逆式压片 机来说可能太厚了点,因此,我们必须在将面皮 放入压片机加工前将面团再次压薄。 12. 将面皮放在加工台上, 未被包裹的一边正对自己, 慢慢将其压薄直至面片长与宽相基本同或长度略 大于宽度。将面皮旋转90度(将未被包裹的叠层 油脂一边沿着传送带方向放置)并开始将面团压 成薄片,其长度约为宽度2.5至3倍。 13. 此时,面皮仅叠有一层油脂。面片可沿四角方向 延展,因此面片呈长方形。此时即可对面皮进行 下一步的叠层操作了。 67


Baking Fundamentals

The English Method

英国法

In this method, the conditioned fat layer is laid out on the dough and folded so that it forms two layers of fat before the start of the lamination (rolling and folding) process.

使用这种方法的时候,我们必须将待加工的油脂层平铺在面团 上并将油脂层对折以便在开始分层操作(卷滚,折叠)前先准 备好双层叠层油脂。

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17. 17. Use a thin wooden pin to create a trough at the marked position. This is done for both the marked positions (edge of the fat and the middle position of the fat) so the dough thickness at those positions is thinner than rest of the dough. 18. The dough sheet is ready for the layering fat when one edge of the layering fat is in line with one edge of the dough and the other edge of the layering fat is in line with the trough position. 14. 在加工台表面洒上一层面粉,将经静置后的面皮从冰箱中 取出,平放在加工台上。

18. 14. The rested dough sheet is removed from the chiller and laid flat onto a dusted surface. 15. The conditioned layering fat sheet is laid on top of the dough sheet and the size of the dough sheet is “adjusted”. The objective here is to re-shape the dough sheet such that the width of the layering fat and the dough sheet is approximately the same. 16. The conditioned layering fat is laid along side the top of the dough and the length of the dough sheet is “adjusted” so the length of the fat is 2/3 the length of the dough sheet. Next, mark the position of the edges of the layering fat on the dough as well as the position at half the length of the layering fat. 68 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific

15. 将加工过的油脂片放在面皮上,并调整面皮的大小。这么 做是为了调节面皮的形状,从而使叠层油脂的宽度和面片 宽度基本保持一致。 16. 将加工过的油脂片放在面皮上,并调整面皮的长度,使油 脂片长度占面皮长度的三分之二。然后在面皮上作记号标 示出叠层油脂的边缘,并在叠层油脂长边的一半处再做一 记号。 17. 用一只细木钉在标记位置压出一根凹槽,这样既可以标示 位置(油脂层边缘位置和中点位置),又可以使这些位置 的面片厚度较之其他位置更薄。 18. 当叠层油脂的一边与面皮边缘相齐而另一边与凹槽标示位 相齐时,即可进行叠层操作。


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19. The dough sheet is folded over to cover half of the layering fat. The fat is left exposed along the horizontal side. The reason for making the trough on the dough sheet was to obtain very thin dough thickness at the folding position along the edge of the layering fat. 20. The dough sheet with the exposed layering fat is then folded over to cover the first fold.

19. 将面皮折起,包裹住一半的叠层油脂。水平方向 侧面的油脂不必包裹。在面皮上划出凹槽是为了 使沿叠层油脂位置折叠的面片厚度较薄。 20. 然后将未包裹住叠层油脂的那半边折起,包裹住 原有的那半边折片。

21. Dough thickness along the edges will affect fat distribution later on during the lamination stages. Hence, thin dough along the vertical folded edges will result in better fat distribution when sheeted.

21. 边缘位置的面皮厚度将会在之后的分层步骤中影 响油脂的分布。因此,沿竖直边缘方向折叠的较 薄面皮可以保证压片时的油脂分布更加均匀。

22. The dough height (with the two layers of layering fat inside) will be too thick for the reversible sheeter, hence, it is necessary to pin the dough down further before feeding it into the sheeter.

22. 此时面皮(包括内部的两层叠层油脂)对可逆式 压片机来说可能太厚了点,因此,我们必须在将 面皮放入压片机加工前将面团再次压薄。

23. Pinning of the dough is done both length and width-wise to achieve proper thickness before feeding into the sheeter. 24. At this stage, the dough sheet has only two layer of fat. The corners can be stretched so that the shape of the dough sheet is rectangular. When the dough length is approximately 2.5 to 3 times the width, the dough sheet is then ready for the next step – the lamination process.

23. 应将面团沿纵横两个方向压薄,以便在将其放入 压片机前先将其加工成厚度适中的面团。 24. 此时, 面皮仅叠有两层油脂, 可沿四角方向延展, 因此面皮呈长方形。当面皮的长度约为宽度的2. 5至3倍时, 即可对面片进行下一步的叠层操作了。

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