STUDIO COLLECTION 2019
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PART OF THE SOLUTION All the most valued and sustainable materials are natural – including fur. Fur is an incredibly durable, sustainable, renewable and biodegradable material. It comes from nature, and when it is worn out, it can become part of nature again. It can be upcycled and transformed and passed on from generation to generation. Kopenhagen Fur is the world’s leading fur auction house – and with that comes a responsibility. A responsibility for the environment, for a sustainable circular economy and a no waste production philosophy and – of course – ensuring the highest standards of animal welfare. From 2020 all the fur coming from Kopenhagen Fur will be WelFur certified. The WelFur certification is a science-based program developed by independent researchers and monitored by third party auditors and is the finest seal of approval when it comes to animal welfare
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ABOUT STUDIO COLLECTION 2019 Kopenhagen Fur Studio is Kopenhagen Fur’s centre for creativity, innovation, and craftsmanship and is committed to bringing innovation to fur design. Every year, Kopenhagen Fur Studio designs a collection to showcase new techniques developed by Kopenhagen Fur’s in-house furriers. The annual collection aims to inspire others to explore fur as a material and work with fur in new and innovative ways. The styles must live up to different criteria to be chosen for the Studio Collection. These are criteria such as being commercial, innovative, inspirational, crossgenerational and for both men and women. Kopenhagen Fur’s annual Studio Collection has taken the art of craftmanship even further. The new collection coming out in September carries craftmanship in all the different states from idea to the finished style. Craftmanship as a term is defined as the quality of design and work shown in something made by hand. To craft something extraordinary by hand is exactly what has been the main inspiration to Kopenhagen Fur’s furriers that have interpreted the use of hands into innovative techniques and designs when making the collection.
“I thought it would be fun for the furriers to work with their own hands as an inspiration. You become attached to the collection in a different way and draw parallels back to the craft that goes into working with fur throughout the entire process,” says Kopenhagen Fur Creative Lead Furrier and Designer, Louise Fenger Hvilsted. The foundation for this year’s collection is pictures of Kopenhagen Fur furriers’ own hands that has been fragmented and turned into artwork. These artworks have inspired the patterns for new techniques used for the styles in the collection. In this way each Kopenhagen fur furrier is reflected in every piece. All the styles have been named after the Latin vocabulary for bones and muscles in our hands to articulate the role they have played in making the collection. For more information about Studio Collection head to our website by clicking here.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS FLEXOR 8 ULNA 12 PHALANX 16 RADIUS 20 PALMAR 24 FASCIA 28 CARPUS 32 METACARPUS 36
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FLEXOR Flexor [ flek-ser ] noun, plural - flex·ors 1. Anatomy. A muscle that serves to flex or bend a part of the body. Flexor is a full fur mink coat. It is a versatile coat, which can be worn inside out as a classic textile coat with a fur lining – or as a full fur coat with a textile collar. Flexor is inspired by standard men’s wear design with its tartan-like pattern and the flexibility of the coat. The coat can be worn with a belt in the waist, giving it a tailored feminine look or without as a loose oversized coat.
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1. The tools: Ruler, carding brush, hair-guider, furrier knife, pen, tracing wheel, scissors, pins and a protractor. The skins: Black Cross, Stardust and Sapphire sheared 6 mm
2. Draw line vertically along the skin 1 cm on both Black Cross and Sapphire. On Stardust the line must be 3 cm wide on both vetically and horizontally.
3. Cut the lines along the skin and place the 1 cm stripes between 3 cm stripes and sew them together.
4. Finished stitched stripes on the long side.
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5. Cut the horizontal lines on the skin and place the 1 cm stripes between 3 cm stripes
6. Sew the stripes together.
7. Moisten and stretch the finished technique so all lines are about right, both vertical and horizontal.
8. The finished technique.
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ULNA Ulna [ uhl-nuh ] noun, plural - ul¡nae, ul¡nas. 1. Anatomy. The long bone found in the forearm that stretches from the elbow to the smallest finger. Ulna is a disruptive and loud full fur mink coat. It is a robe that is woven in a complex and contrast-filled pattern. Inspired by knitwear, the robe is comfortable and soft, but can be styled in many ways. This style can be worn with the accompanied belt to create a more feminine silhouette or without for a relaxed look.
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1. The tools: Ruler, carding brush, hair-guider, furrier knife, pen, tracing wheel, scissors, weights, tweezers and pins. The skins: Stardust mink, Black Cross mink, dyed blue mink, dyed yellow mink and dyed pale yellow mink
2. Moisten the skins with water, stretch, nail and leave to dry. Cut the skins open vertically centre back. Sew the skin used for the middle of the technique together at the belly. Place and sew the skin used for the outer part of the technique on each side of the middle skin.
3. Cut 5 mm strips vertically from the 3 dyed skins.
4. Use a wavy template to draw two 1,25 cm wide strips along the line where the skins are sewn together. Cut the two wavy strips and switch placement.
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5. With the two strips in new placement, the transition lines between the Stardust and Black Cross mink are distorted and appears more organic.
6. The base skins have had powder dye added to the leather side of the skins. Draw lines at random on the base skins and cut open. Sew the 5 mm dyed mink strips into the base. If necessary, moisten, stretch and nail the base again.
7. Draw 1,25 cm horizontal stripes and cut.
8. Weave the stripes into mesh fabric. Start weaving from the bottom of the skin. The reversed weaving order will distort the pattern and give a more uniform expression.
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PHALANX Phalanx [ fey-langks, fal-angks ] noun, plural - pha路lanx路es, pha路lan路ges 1. Anatomy. A bone of the finger or toe Phalanx is a full fur mink coat with a technique incorporating movement and shape into the design. Inspired by a traditional denim shirt, the fur is complemented by dark, rich blue leather as details on the sleeves and lapel that creates a glamourous effect. The oversized design works perfectly both as a seasonal outerwear style and as a shirt and dress.
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1. The tools: Ruler, carding brush, hair-guider, furrier knife, pen, tracing wheel, scissors, comb, pins and a protractor. The skins: Black Cross, Stardust and dyed blue mink
2. Draw 2 curvy lines on each skin. Make the blue middle part 2 cm shorter than the others.
3. Cut the skin following the curvy lines.
4. Decide how to place the cut out parts.
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5. Sew all parts together, so you have 3 new different mixed skins
6. Cut all 3 skins into 6 mm stripes. Mix and place them together.
7. Sew all stripes together.
8. Steam and brush the finished technique sample.
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RADIUS Radius [ rey-dee-uh s ] noun, plural - ra·di·i, ra·di·us·es 1. Anatomy. One of the two long bones of the forearm that extends from the lateral side of the elbow to the medial side of the wrist or carpus Radius is a full fur shaved mink style with leather details. It serves as the palette cleanser of the collection, as it is designed as smart-wear inspired by classic menswear. The shaved mink gives the jacket a soft, luxurious velour-look, while the leather detailing makes a sharp contrast. The buttons make it a versatile and functional style, which can be used as both a boxy jacket and as a jacket cinched in at the waist for tailored use.
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PALMAR Palmar [ pal-mer ] adjective 1. Amatomy. Of, relating to, or located in or on the palm of the hand or to the corresponding part of the forefoot of an animal. Palmar is a full fur mink jacket with elements of inspiration picked up from more graphical design. The jacket has been crafted with blazer cut, blocks of mink types and spotted details for a colorful and astonishing look. String detailing in the waist makes it easy to change the silhouette from a boxy to a more tailored and structured look. Palmar is the only style in the collection including traditional brown mink.
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1 The tools: Ruler, carding brush, hair-guider, furrier knife, pen, tracing wheel and a protractor. The skins: Norwegian Cross and Brown mink
2. Mark the center back of the skins.
3. Cut the centre back line. Match and cut the sides on both skins.
4. Sew the sides together on both skins.
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5. Divide each skin into 3 parts.
6. Mix and place the parts into 2 new skins.
7. Sew all the parts together. Remember to nail the technique sample.
8. Steam and brush the finished technique sample.
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FASCIA Fascia [ fash-ee-uh ] noun, plural - fas¡cias 1. Anatomy. A band or sheath of connective tissue investing, supporting, or binding together internal organs or parts of the body. Fascia is this collection’s interpretation of a classic full fur mink coat using two types of black Norwegian Cross mink. It can be worn both as an oversized loose mink coat or with the accompanied belt to create a more feminine silhouette. An avant-garde coat that really does the mink skins justice.
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1 The tools: Ruler, carding brush, hair-guider, furrier knife, pen, tracing wheel, scissors and pins. The skins: One Black Cross in X Dark and two Black Cross in XXX Dark.
2. Sew the skins side by side, while taking good care of the hair lengths.
3. In this sample, we like to make some confusion around the assemblement of the skins, to do this we move some spots from one skin to another. Be creative and find the perfect spot that needs to switch place.
4. Cut out the spot.
(See Studio Collection Techniques 2018 �How to assemble three skins� page 11)
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5. To make sure the new spots looks natural, find a spot where the spots matches in hair length. Mark up with a wheel marker.
6. Choose a spot in contrast colour to make the confusion of the assemblement bigger.
7. Sew in the spots. Keep switching spots, also between the two different types of Black Cross or whatever type of mink skin you are working with. Remember to nail the technique sample.
8. Steam and brush the finised technique sample.
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CARPUS Carpus [ kahr-puh s ] noun, plural - car·pi 1. Anatomy. The part of the upper extremity between the hand and the forearm; wrist. 2. The wrist bones collectively; the group of bones between the bones of the hand and the radius. Carpus is a luscious Silverblue and Stardust full fur mink coat with a pattern that resembles herringbone woven textiles. The fine detailing of the fur is a let-out technique that works beautifully in the long coat. The design is inspired by the 80’s with larger shoulders and big wool lapels giving the coat an oversize and luxurious look.
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1. The tools: Ruler, carding brush, hair-guider, furrier knife, pen, tracing wheel, scissors, pins, measuring tape and an angleizer. The skins: Stardust and Silverblue
2. Take notice of the two differrent types. Remember to mix after cutting the stripes, when you sew them together.
3. Calculate W-shaped let out. Mark the centre back of the skin.
4. Draw W lines on your preferred angle.
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5. Cut out the 4 lines in your W. Cut each line into 6 mm stripes using a cutting machine.
6. Sew the two kinds of 6 mm stripes alternately together into the 4 lines needed for the W.
7. Assemble the 4 lines into a W. Remember to nail the technique sample.
8. Steam and brush the finished technique sample.
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METACARPUS Metacarpus [ met-uh-kahr-puh s ] noun, plural - met·a·car·pi 1. Anatomy. The part of a hand or forelimb, especially of its bony structure, included between the wrist, or carpus, and the fingers, or phalanges. Metacarpus is Carpus’ sister coat and is the only style in this collection combining mink fur and fox fur. It is a versatile two-piece coat inspired by the classic blazer jacket but combined with glamorous details such as buttons in gold. Metacarpus is suitable for several seasons, as it can either be worn as a full fur jacket or with the belonging wool coat underneath.
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1. The tools: Ruler, carding brush, hair-guider, furrier knife, pen, tracing wheel, comb and scissors. The skins: Silverblue, Silverblue sheared 4 mm and Pearl fox
2. Cut 2 cm stripes in the Silverblue and Silverblue sheared. Mark the order of the stripes with numbers. Put marks by the cross, neck and bottom.
3. Mix the stripes by putting every other Silverblue and Silverblue sheared. Keep the order of the numbers.
4. Sew the stripes together.
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5. Mark on the leather side the weavy pattern. Place the pattern with a gap of around 20 cm, depending on the size of the skins.
6. Open the seams where the fox stripes are to be placed. The fox stripes are 5 mm wide and between 5-18 cm long, depending on placement in the technique.
7. Sew the fox into the mink.
8. After stretching and nailing, steam and brush the technique.
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KOPENHAGEN FUR Kopenhagen Fur is the leading player in the international fur trade. The company is anchored in the Danish tradition of high quality, which is part of every aspect of Kopenhagen Fur’s activities. Kopenhagen Fur is a cooperative company owned by the Danish mink breeders and is closely involved in every link in the value chain, from breeding mink to selling fur all over the world. Kopenhagen Fur Studio is Kopenhagen Fur’s centre of creativity, innovation, and craftsmanship and is committed to bringing innovation to fur design. Kopenhagen Fur Studio continuously invites prestigious established designers and up-and-coming talents to join us in working creatively with fur. Every year a selection of new, innovative fur techniques is developed by Kopenhagen Fur’s skilled furriers, where 8 of the most relevant ones are crafted into final styles. The patterns for these styles can be ordered via Kopenhagen Fur’s website.
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SPECIAL THANKS We would like to thank the following for their contributions to this book: Photographer Lasse Wind Hair & Make-up Line Bille Gitte Guldhammer Models Laura Christensen Astrid Retz Earth
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Order your Studio Collection patterns via www.kopenhagenfur.com
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