Fur techniques by Kopenhagen studio
Fur techniques by Kopenhagen Studio
People have been using fur since ancient times. Through the ages, it has been used by both rich and poor as a natural part of clothing and as decoration on hats, bags, jewellery, furniture and interiors. The overall theme for this year’s techniques from Kopenhagen Studio is ‘Nordic Nature’. Styles, accessories and furniture have been developed with an eye for outdoor life, love of the sky and the sea and the rough, Nordic nature. With a strong focus on craftsmanship and detail, Kopenhagen Studio honours the classic, natural mink types and combine these with other fabrics such as silk, leather and denim look. The range of colours chosen comprises grey, brown and blue mixed with sandy beach tones. This allows the classic, natural mink types to shine through and blend in with the rough elements of nature.
Mink waves
The mink wave technique is inspired by the waves in the ocean. The dyeing of the skin makes this technique particularly interesting, since this is what creates the specific look. The technique is very feminine and light, and can be used for an entire style or for smaller parts, such as mink cuffs or the bottom part of a skirt.
1. Choose the skin types and the preferred look
3. Cut out the pattern
2. Mark out the pattern on the back of the skin
4. Pull out the hair from front to back through the cuts made in the skin
Fringes
This technique is inspired by seaweed washed up on a sandy shore. The technique combines traditional fringes with a degradĂŠ look. The degradĂŠ appears when the same type of mink is attached to fabric in lines of full, shaved and plucked mink. The feeling is airy and light, and the technique is thus perfect for fuller styles like capes or jackets.
1. Choose the skin types and the preferred look
3. Cut out 5 mm strips
2. Mark out the pattern on the back of the skin
4. Mark out the fringes on the fabric. Stitch the fringes onto the fabric
Mink Stones
This technique is inspired by the wet pebbles, stones and rocks that dominate the Nordic coastlines. When the ‘mink stones’ are attached to a shiny, light surface, the feeling becomes light and airy. This technique requires a big surface in order to obtain the desired feel, and it is thus suitable for longer capes or coats.
1. Choose the skin types and the preferred look
2. Create tubes in mink of 4 cm width and cut out the tubes into smaller parts – about 8 cm long
3. Turn the smaller parts inside out
4. Close the smaller tube at one end and stuff it
5. Attach the tubes to the fabric from the reverse
Reversible mink stripes
This technique is inspired by the organic lines formed in the sand by the wind and the sea. It combines plucked mink with calfskin and forms a reversible pattern. The technique is raw and masculine and is thus suitable for male styles.
2. Use a cutting machine to cut out the fur into 5 mm strips
1. Choose the skin types and the preferred look
3. Stitch the stripes onto the preferred fabric or leather
Feathers
This technique imitates the many feathers you can find on the beach. The airy Arctic Marble Fox is used to form the desired fluffy feel of each feather. By combining fox with lighter materials such as silk organza or silk duchesse, the overall feel of the technique becomes even lighter. Due to the very feminine impression this technique creates, it is perfect for longer dresses and skirts.
2. Mark the individual pattern onto the fabric
1. Choose the style and the preferred look
3. Cut out strips of fox in individual lengths – in this case, 5 mm
4. Combine the fox strips by stitching them together: take note that the hairs need to go in opposite directions in order to create a ‘feather effect’
5. Stitch the feathers onto the fabric from the reverse
FACTS ABOUT Kopenhagen studio
Kopenhagen Studio was established in 2005 on Langelinie in Central Copenhagen as Kopenhagen Fur’s centre for creativity, innovation and craftsmanship. The marketing department of Kopenhagen Fur is also housed within these creative walls. Kopenhagen Studio invites representatives from some of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses as well as other creative industries to come and develop new ideas and techniques for using fur. Here, established as well as up-and-coming designers have the opportunity to work with in-house furriers, who contribute with their professional expertise. These collaborations challenge the traditional perceptions of what it is possible to make out of fur. The development of new techniques means that fur is now found in haute couture, prêt-a-porter and street fashions. To further support innovation within the fashion and design industries, Kopenhagen Studio works continuously with everyone from leading design houses to students, striving to find new ways to use fur. Kopenhagen Studio also works together with the world’s top design schools in the training of designers. In addition to Kopenhagen Studio in Copenhagen there is also a Kopenhagen Studio in Beijing. The results of the studio’s creative collaborations can be experienced at the international fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Here in Denmark, selected designers take part in the annual competition ‘Den Gyldne Pelsnål’ arranged by Kopenhagen Studio. Kopenhagen Studio would like to thank the following designers: Søren Bach, Josephine Bergsøe, Ilse Jacobsen, Frederik Thrane, Jorun Nielsen, Maj-Britt Lyngby and Cecilie Toklum. www.kopenhagenfur.com/studio