Issuu on Google+

Kopenhagen fur JUNE 2013


KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Contents June 2013

14 Editor in Chief Torben Nielsen

16

22 5 Editorial

Editor Pernille Munk Christensen/ PMC@kopenhagenfur.com L ayout lulu xue/Fr ances Yuan Jinsong Print montagebureauet aps Advertising K athrine Engberg / [+45] 4326 1112 Cover Design by Giambattista Valli from A / W

6 New hub for European and Chinese fashion industries 8 News in brief

2013/14

12 New design Studio in Yuyao

ISSN 1901-731

14 Production progress and sales success 16 New Alumni Club for Sorting Course participants 18 The farmer who started collecting skins 22 From arid desert to auctions and haute couture 25 Events in Copenhagen 26 Auction schedule and offering 2012/13 28 The mecca for skin production 29 Copenhagen hotels 30 Contact Kopenhagen Fur


CELEBRATING

SQUAWS.DK

HOUSE OF AMBER

Copenhagen Amber Museum & Shop by Nyhavn, 2 Kongens Nytorv House of Amber on Stroeget, 6 Nygade House of Amber by Tivoli, 1A Vesterbrogade Open Monday-Sunday • www.houseofamber.com

QUALITY GUARANTEED BY COPENHAGEN AMBER MUSEUM


Editorial giving con men too much power

Dan Jørgensen seems to consider his values and ​​ beliefs better and more valuable than those of Greenlandic fishermen. It is incredible that hundreds of EU parliamentarians apparently agree that Dan Jørgensen represents a culture that is superior to the arctic and therefore is entitled to take away a key element of the arctic people’s livelihood.

june 2013

On the left, there are two photos. Try to study them closely. One photo shows a European bureaucrat oozing of political correctness and the right kind of humanity. On the inside however, he really doesn’t care about justice, or real-life people. His politics is driven not by doing right but by doing a populist’s politics. The other picture shows a Greenlandic sealer hunting for seals. In Greenland, seal is incredibly important as a source of meat and clothing. Seal hunting is an essential part of Greenlandic culture, but not only in Greenland. Hunting for seals and other arctic animals, from seal to whale, from musk ox to bear is the basis of human settlement in the arctic areas. The EU has decided to impose so tough restrictions on import of sealskins that import has de facto stopped. This has caused gigantic financial and social problems to the indigenous people in the arctic areas. Import restrictions are justified by the risk of seals becoming extinct. Simultaneously, the EU is discussing if they should raise the ban on seal hunting in EU’s internal waters because seals are now a serious threat to fish stocks. This is also the case in the North Atlantic. Seals eat significantly more edible fish than fishermen are allowed to catch. The seal import ban was imposed without any concern for the financial and social consequences for the indigenous people. The ban was imposed by some parliamentarians who think more about their own re-election than about some vulnerable groups outside Europe. Basically, this is a very arrogant and racist attitude to Inuit people and their culture. In the photo you see Euro-Parliamentarian Dan Jørgensen. Dan Jørgensen was the man behind the ban on import of sealskins into the EU. Dan Jørgensen seems to consider his values and ​​ beliefs better and more valuable than those of Greenlandic fishermen. It is incredible that hundreds of EU parliamentarians apparently agree that Dan Jørgensen represents a culture that is superior to the arctic and therefore is entitled to take away a key element of the arctic people’s livelihood. Personally, I think that Dan Jørgensen and everything he stands for illustrate that democracy is a dangerous form of government if you give con men too much power.

5


New hub for European and Chinese fashion industries KiCK is the name of a Copenhagen-based creative cluster which will bring together the very best from fashion in two continents, resulting in mutual gains. By Hans Løgstrup Poulsen

On 22 May, KiCK officially opened in a picturesque mansion in the centre of Copenhagen. KiCK stands for Kopenhagen International Centre of Creativity and is a cluster for the very best from various companies within the Danish fashion industry. - Danish fashion industry holds great potential and knowledge within design, marketing and branding. If these qualities are matched with visionary Chinese companies’ resources and manufacturing capacity, very lucrative joint ventures will emerge, says Kenneth Loberg, Director of Marketing and Business Development . Platform for collaborations Kopenhagen Studio, Kopenhagen Fur’s design and innovation centre, has moved into the new premises together with the Danish fashion industry association, Danish Fashion & Textile and the renowned

6

KiCK gives access to all relevant expertise that can facilitate the best possible foundation for collaborations. Through the platform of KiCK, it will be possible to create the network that can make business flourish, Julie Iversen says.

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Kolding School of Design. To top it off, Kopenhagen Nexus, a new initiative, has been established to match companies in order to create the optimal collaborations. Julie Iversen, Head of Creative Cluster, sees great perspectives for having so much capacity and knowledge into one location. KiCK gives access to all relevant expertise that can facilitate the best possible foundation for collaborations. Through the platform of KiCK, it will be possible to create the network that can make business flourish, Julie Iversen says. Once established, the business partners will be able to acqire an office in the building which formerly housed Kopenhagen Studio. Here, they will be able to start in a remote location although not far from the network while still being under the umbrella of KiCK. A story for the consumers According to Thomas Klausen, Managing Director of Danish Fashion & Textile, a large number of fashion and textile companies in Denmark are very keen to explore the opportunities for collaborations with Chinese partners. Danish fashion companies have great knowledge of design and branding. In some cases their existance stretches back a 100 years. The story of a brand is important in order to reach not only the European consumers but also consumers on a future global scale, Thomas Klausen says. He also points out that the Chinese fashion and textile companies are strong and established companies with knowledge and experience regarding how to penetrate the Chinese market. Kenneth Loberg also emphasizes the combined values for a step-by-step development on collaborations. The main vision is to take a brand, redefine it and relaunch it in Europe. When ready, it can be launched on the Chinese market as well. The strategy may vary from collaboration to collaboration but with KiCK we see great potential for the fashion industry in Europe and China, including fur fashion, says Kenneth Loberg.

june 2013

7


News in brief

focus on quality and origin ??????

The purchase of the Palomino Velvet Males Top Lot marks Aerospace Liu Du Fur Co., Ltd. ‘s start on a journey towards a new level of exclusiveness; a journey where Kopenhagen Fur can contribute with more than the world’s best mink skins. Given the company’s focus on quality and origin of products, Aerospace Liu Du Fur Co., Ltd. only buys mink skins at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions. At the April auction, Ms Zhao Shumei and Mr Zhao Xinji, Deputy General Managers, marked their first auction visit with the purchase of the male Top Lot at the price of 3,000 DKK per skin. -We are very origin-focused and wish to tell our customers about the quality, where the goods are from and about the designers. Therefore, we will only use mink skins from Kopenhagen Fur, Ms Zhao Shumei says. Cooperation with Furward As the company name might reveal, Aerospace Liu Du Fur Co., Ltd. is a company organized in a conglomerate that also produces equipment for the space industry. So far, it is the only stateowned Chinese company dealing with fur. The company began in the fur business three years ago and sees great potential for expansion. The exclusiveness of the brand is evident as the company’s store is located at a hotel where only members are allowed.

Kopenhagen Fur’s auction dates 2013/2014 Inspection Sale December 2013 11-13 14-16 February 2014 5-10 11-17 April 2014 4-8 9-14 June 2014 10-16 17-24 September 2014 1-7 8-15

8

- The member’s club includes Chinese celebrities such as film and TV actors as well as Chinese athletes who have won Olympic Gold medals, Mr Zhao Xinji says. More stores at luxury hotels are in the making and to fill these shops with top fur garments, Aerospace Liu Du Fur Co., Ltd. wishes to cooperate with European designers. To find the right designers, Aerospace Liu Du Fur Co., Ltd. has teamed up with Furward, the consultancy subsidiary of Kopenhagen Fur. - By using the best mink skins available and combining these with high levels of craftsmanship and quality throughout the whole design process, we can deliver the extraordinary level of exclusiveness demanded by our customers, Mr Zhao Xinji says.

Closing times in July and August The Customer Department will be closed on Fridays from 19 July to 30 August, both days included. To contact the Customer Department during the summer please use the following numbers: Phone no.: +45 4326 1444 Fax no.: +45 4326 1449 E-mail: customers@kopenhagenfur.com

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Italian fur brand VolZa took home all Moondust The new skin type was welcomed by the buyers at Kopenhagen Fur’s April auction. However, one buyer was just more decisive than the rest and is now the sole provider of fur garments made of Moondust. The Italian fur brand VolZa simply bought all of the offered Moondust skins. Therefore, the Milan-based brand is now able to create a truly exclusive “Moon collection”. One of the owners of VolZa explains that the exquisite and unique Moondust skins caught her eye right away. - The remarkable pattern of the skins stimulates the imagination. With the bright colours underneath it signals luxury, but, at the same time, the pattern is the design of nature. It seems like a real and unique touch of the Moon, power of future and “space” fashion, she says.

A Top Lot only for a connoisseur of fur The chinchilla Top Lot was bought by the Turkish fur brand Punto who will only sell it to a customer who truly treasures the skin’s quality. Mr Ahmet Demir, Director of Punto Deri San Ve Ticas, bought the very best chinchilla skins at Kopenhagen Fur’s April auction for 840 DKK per skin. The Turkish fur retailer has a special plan for the high quality skins. - We have many customers who demand the very best. Therefore, these chinchilla skins will be to their liking, Mr Ahmet Demir says. However, the chinchilla Top Lot will not be available for just any customer. The skins will be kept in stock in Punto’s shop in Antalya, Turkey and only be offered to customers who know fur and would appreciate to own a garment made from the Top Lot. - I will offer it only to customers with a true passion for fur. I will rather keep it in stock than sell it to someone, but I know these chinchilla skins will be in demand, Mr Ahmet Demir says.

The skins will now be used to create a number of deluxe styles that according to VolZa will be unique and innovative, just like the Moondust skin type per se. In this way, VolZa consolidates the brand’s ability to strive for the very top of fur fashion.

Reception closing times

- With the world’s best skins from Denmark and the excellence of Italian craftsmanship and design, we will create something breathtaking for our customers, the owner of VolZA says.

Please note that Kopenhagen Fur’s reception is closed for three weeks from Monday, 15 July to Friday, 2 August (both days included) and on all Fridays in July and August.

june 2013

9


News in brief

Swakara Top Lots – The best of the best For the second time at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions, the Milanbased fur brand VolZa bought Top Lots. In February and in April Volza bought the chinchilla Top Lots and during the April auction, VolZa bought both the swakara White and the swakara Black Top Lots. - We only sell very exclusive and unique garments. It has to be the best of the best, says one of the owners of VolZa. According to her, the swakara Top Lots are very exclusive and at the same time fashionable. - Africa is very trendy at the moment, and therefore we bought the swakara Top Lots. We are not only the best in quality, but also the

Sorting courses 2013/14 Kopenhagen Fur Academy offers a programme which gives you an opportunity to learn the specifics of the sorting and auction procedures in an international atmosphere.

10

best in fashion. Only the best is good enough for our customers, she says. VolZa buys Top Lots at auctions all over the world, and the company’s customers are also worldwide. There is no doubt that VolZa’s ambitions are very high, which is why the swakara Top Lots are now going to Milan to be in the exclusive VolZa collections. - I really liked the character of the swakara skins. The patterns are natural but at the same time very artistic. Actually, our unique garments are much like art, which goes very well with the beautiful swakara skins, says the owner.

New receptionist at Kopenhagen Fur After 38 years at Kopenhagen Fur, Ms Lis Elleby has decided to retire from her post by 1 June.

Sorting courses at Kopenhagen Fur 2013/14: 21 - 25 October 2013 3 – 7 February 2014 24 March – 9 April 2014

Thanking Lis for her loyalty for years, Kopenhagen Fur expresses the wish that Lis will enjoy her time with her family for many years to come.

Keep an eye on our website to see any updates of the courses! Enrolment can take place on our website or you can contact Annette Hindborg (+45 4326 1440), customers@ kopenhagenfur.com.

We are pleased to welcome her successor, Ms Line Jensen who will take the job in the reception including the hotel reservations for Kopenhagen Fur’s auction customers. Line comes from many year’s of employment in Copenhagen Airport.

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Much to celebrate for Top Lot buyer Two special occasions provided the motivation to buy the Sapphire Velvet Females Top Lot at Kopenhagen Fur’s April auction. With a 20 year anniversary in the fur industry, the company Jindi Lady decided to mark this milestone by taking home the Top Lot for the price of 1020 DKK per skin. Jindi Lady is situated in the city of Shenyang in the Chinese province Liaoning. On top of the anniversary, Mr Gao Chang Qing, second generation of owners of the company, is getting married next year. To celebrate this event, the Top Lot was bought for his fiancée who also attended the auction.

- She liked the Sapphire Velvet Top Lot, so I will make a special garment for her on the occasion of our wedding, Mr Gao Chang Qing says.

Video: The future favours fur Michael Holm, Global Trend and Design Manager at Kopenhagen Studio, is always trying to catch up with the latest trends in fur fashion. The A/W 13/14 trends, dominated by fur, have been gathered in a video. Normally, Kopenhagen fur publishes an annual “Catwalk Summary”, but this year, due to the many garments and trimmings on international catwalks, we have gathered these in a video. - The presence of fur on the catwalks this season has been astronomical, and at the same time I see the design students from international design schools embracing fur and pushing the boundaries for the integration of fur in fashion. I always combine my impressions from the boundaries for the integration of fur in fashion. I always combine my impressions from the catwalks with the designs of tomorrow presented by design students. This gives me a great indication of which trends are a passing phase which are here to stay, says Michael Holm.

Michael Holm always has his eyes on fur in fashion and travels all round the globe to gather the latest in fur trends, but also to find the fur fashion designers of tomorrow. - Historically speaking, Paris is the global centre of fashion and Haute Couture and I always call it the melting pot of design, because Paris is where classic and experimental designs collide and the outcome effects trends every year. I have gathered all my thoughts and observations in this video. You can learn more about next year’s trends in this year’s “Fur trends” video. Find the video at youtube.com/kopenhagenfur or scan the QR-code above.

National holiday in Denmark: Constitution Day: 5 June

june 2013

11


New design Studio in Yuyao A ceremony took place during Kopenhagen Fur’s April auction in Glostrup. A letter of intent was signed to begin the process of establishing a new joint Studio in Ningbo City in the Yuyao area in China. Kopenhagen Fur and Yuyao China Fur Market intend to collaborate on this design centre. By Josefine Bøgh Nedermark

The letter of intent was signed by Torben Nielsen, CEO of Kopenhagen Fur, William Chien, CEO of Ningbo China Fur Market, and Zhang LiHong, who is a representative of the local government in Yuyao. The name of the new design centre will be Yuyao - Kopenhagen Fur Studio. Hundreds of fur companies in one place In the Chinese fur industry, Yuyao is in a leading market position and the region has developed rapidly in recent years. During the first two phases, more than

12

500 manufacturers and 800 fur shops have found their way to the China Fur Market. At the moment, the third phase is being implemented, and this section will be a modern industrial park offering production, design and office facilities to hundreds of fur companies. Here, the new Yuyao - Kopenhagen Fur Studio will be situated. - The new Studio is a very important first step in the collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur. It represents a new beginning with a new generation of fur customers. Here we want to bring together

the native Chinese traditions, the new consumer culture and European fashion, says William Chien. According to William Chien, the new Studio will be opened in Yuyao in approx. one year. The Studio will bring innovation to the fur and fashion industry in China, in the same way as the successful Studios in Copenhagen and in Beijing do. Know-how on design and welfare The new workshop will offer know-how on the finest types of fur in the world. - The purpose of the collaboration is

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


increase creativity of the fur and fashion industry in the Ningbo area, and to tap this creativity to the mutual benefit of Yuyao China Fur Market and Kopenhagen Fur. It is important to move the local design forces to where everything happens, says Kenneth Loberg, Director of Marketing and Business Development Kopenhagen Fur will provide training in skin qualities and new fur techniques for fur manufacturers, designers and furriers in Yuyao, and the workshop is to be the platform for the cooperation with universities and students.

june 2013

- It is important for us that we have a collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur, who has a lot of expertise. At the moment, animal welfare is not in focus in China, but will be in the future. Through this collaboration we can show manufacturers and customers that we are doing things the right way and that we think about animal welfare in the production. This way, we are going to have the consumers on our side in the future as well, says William Chien.

It is important for us that we have a collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur, who has a lot of expertise, says William Chien.

13


Production progress and sales success In the last decade, the mink production has more than doubled. While the raw skins are primarily going to Asia and Russia, the fur retail business in European countries is getting back on track. By Josefine Bøgh Nedermark

Fur is more popular than ever in all parts of the world. This is reflected in the world production of mink skins, which has reached new heights. In 2012, world production of mink reached 59.1 million skins thereby doubling the production from 2001. This development indicates that mink has never been in greater demand, and especially in China the development is at top speed. In 2012, China accounted for 16.4 percent of the world’s fur consumption and here the growth potential is also the biggest. However, this does not mean that the

14

European market has lost its breath. During Paris Fashion Week fur was present in remarkable 80 percent of the shows, while Milan Fashion Week presented fur on 86 percent of the catwalks, according to the fashion news site fashionista.com. In many collections fur was used in more than 20 creations, while a few had more than 30 creations with fur incorporated.

According to IFTF, European fur sales are 4.4 billion USD, which equals 28 percent of the global total.

Focus on retail and wholesale One of the biggest fur markets in Europe is Germany. The country accounts for 6.4 percent of the world’s fur consumption. - Germany is today a market with strong focus on retail and wholesale. Today, all the new and young designers use fur in their collections, and so do all the established exclusive fashion houses in Germany such as Hugo Boss, Schumacher and Madeleine, says Susanne KolbWachtel, CEO of Deutches Pelz-Institut. She reports that fur sales account for a little over one billion euros. That number has been increasing in recent years, but

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


this is only in the fur industry. There are no figures for the turnover in the fashion industry, despite the fact that that is where money is really being made. Today, fewer fur coats are sold, while fur trimmings on textile garments are booming. Therefore, some traditional furriers still have financial problems in Germany. - It is necessary that we need to develop and adapt to the time, because we are in the middle of a crisis. It is not possible to sell a fur coat that looks like something from the 1960s, says Susanne Kolb-Wachtel.

Stronger appeal to the younger market According to Andrea Martin, Press & PR Manager at the British Fur Trade Association (BFTA) the picture is the same in the UK. - Today fur is not only sold through traditional furriers but increasingly through designer stores and boutiques. Our retail members are noticing that fur has now a stronger appeal to the younger market and with the many fur accessories, available fur is affordable to all, says Andrea Martin. According to BFTA members in the UK, fur sales this year increased by over 30 percent compared to the previous

year. Furthermore, Andrea Martin reports that, at the BFTA office, they are getting an increasing number of UK students and young designers interested in finding out more about fur and to use it in their collections. - The new techniques in manufacturing and dressing mean that fur now has a lightness and versatility that makes it even more attractive to designers and consumers. The natural attributes of softness and durability are enhanced by new and improved processing techniques which mean that fur can be treated as any other fabric in design, says Andrea Martin.

This development indicates that mink has never been in greater demand, and especially in China the development is at top speed.

more than meets the eye and ear. When you feel the urge to go beyond compromise, take a closer look at Bang & Olufsen. Our products are known for their unique appearance and spectacular performance. But there’s more to Bang & Olufsen than meets the eye. Decades of constantly improving the user experience in actual home environments have resulted in the BeoLink system. BeoLink allows you to enjoy true sound anywhere in your home across speakers, audio equipment and even televisions. You control everything seamlessly via one remote. Visit our flagship store at Kgs. Nytorv, and let us take you everywhere you want to go.

Bang & Olufsen Kgs. Nytorv, Kgs. Nytorv 26 Tel. +45 33 11 14 15, kgs.nytorv@beostores.com www.bang-olufsen.com

june 2013

15


New Alumni Club for Sorting Course participants The future participants in the very popular Sorting Courses will now have every reason to join the training. The trainees in the Sorting Course in May/June 2013 will at their graduation attend the celebration of the foundation of the new Alumni Club for all trainees at Kopenhagen Fur’s Sorting Courses. By Josefine Bøgh Nedermark

At the moment, every Sorting Course offered by Kopenhagen Fur is completely booked before even being offered. The demand is about twice as high as the number of courses, which take place three times a year. - Our courses are very attractive, because the trainees do not only gain better knowledge of fur – they also gain a stronger and expanded professional network, says Kenneth Loberg, who is Director of Marketing and Business Development at Kopenhagen Fur.

16

Long-lasting network and knowledge To make sure that all the networking and knowledge will continue to evolve even after the graduation, a formal Alumni Club will now be established. A celebration of the foundation will take place during the June auction, when the trainees graduate. - The idea is to create an Alumni Club, and with members from all over the world we have two possibilities. One is to meet your classmates at an event in for example Copenhagen. The other is to

create regional events across the different cohorts. This way it is possible to build a larger network where you work, says Kenneth Loberg. Inspired by MBA Alumni Club The new Alumni Club gets its inspiration from the current fur Executive MBA Alumni Club. The aim is to create an innovative forum to strengthen the fur industry through cooperation, a sharing of fur knowledge and network in order to create stronger business relations within

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


The participants often come with suggestions for something that might be addressed. We would like to arrange some partying; keep everyone updated on the fur industry and at the same time have a good time.

the industry. - The MBA is a great success, but it only exists in China. The new Alumni Club will be worldwide for all our previous and future participants in the Sorting Courses. We find that many would like to attend events, as long as there is somebody who organizes them. This way we make it easier for everybody to meet, for example during the auctions, says Kenneth Loberg.

june 2013

Important to meet new people Anastasios Kletsidis, skin dealer at USA Raw Skin Trading Co., is a former participant at the Kopenhagen Fur Sorting Course. He welcomes the idea of an Alumni Club. - It is a good idea and I would like to attend, as long as the events do not interfere with other auctions. I still meet up with my former class, but it is also important to meet new people, to network and to discuss ideas, Anastasios

Kletsidis says. The events will be a mixture of professional and social activities. For example, it will be possible to discuss everything from skin grading and trade to innovation and new trends. - The participants often come with suggestions for something that might be addressed. We would like to arrange some partying; keep everyone updated on the fur industry and at the same time have a good time, says Kenneth Loberg.

17


The farmer who started collecting skins For 28 years, Peter Smit had a mink farm in Canada. He began to sell his skins at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions in 2008. Today he lives on the Spanish island Ibiza and works as a skin collector for Kopenhagen Fur in North America. By Josefine Bøgh Nedermark

18

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


I feel at home at Kopenhagen Fur. I like the people and the management there. I am positive that everything will go well.

At the age of 22, Peter Smit crossed the ocean. He travelled from his safe homeland Holland to a Canadian fox farm located on Prince Edwards Island with his girlfriend and 300 female brown mink. - It was very tough. The winter was terrible, and the first couple of years we would have gone home to Holland if it had not been for the Atlantic Ocean, says Peter Smit. He had previously worked six years at a mink farm in Holland and took the chance to go Canada, when he saw that a Canadian fox farm was looking for someone to run it. He had no money, so he brought his mink. Moreover, he had to marry Maja, his girlfriend; otherwise, she would not have been allowed in the country. - It was not very romantic, because we just had to do it. It was primarily business, but we were young and did not mind the challenge. My wife has been there all along and she has really been the backbone of the farm, says Peter Smit.

According to Peter Smit, he is not only going there to collect skins. He wants to help the farmers and give them good advice. - There is a huge change in Canadian breeding at the moment, because the farmers are going from black to brown mink. That has never happened before. But the black mink are weak, and consequently it is necessary to change to brown mink. It is quite different to breed brown mink though, and therefore the farmers ask us a lot of questions, says Peter Smit. Having always bred brown mink himself, there is much advice to give. Furthermore, Peter Smit has sold his mink at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions, which gives him even more credibility with the Canadian farmers. Even though Peter Smit has only been in the job for a couple of months, he feels very confident. - I feel at home at Kopenhagen Fur. I like the people and the management there. I am positive that everything will go well, says Peter Smit.

First Canadian mink in Copenhagen Peter and Maja Smit overcame the many challenges and stayed in Canada. Their children are born and raised at the mink farm, and in 1993 Peter bought out his Canadian partner and became sole owner of the farm. At that time they had stopped breeding of foxes and focused entirely on mink. In 2008, Peter Smit started selling his skins at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions. - When you have a mink farm, you quickly learn how auction houses are run, and I visited the different auction houses. There was no doubt that I wanted to sell my skins at Kopenhagen Fur, because I liked the ways they were handling things, says Peter Smit. Only four years later, Peter Smit got an offer he could not refuse. Because of the good times in the fur industry and his farm with 6.500 females being worth a lot, he put it up for sale. - The farm was sold in five days. I only did it, because the time was right. I could easily have worked on the farm for 10 more years, so it is not about disliking the industry. I have not lost the interest and I still like to be involved. Now it is just at another level as a skin collector, says Peter Smit. Not afraid at all He has now been working as a skin collector for Kopenhagen Fur in North America for a couple of months. He and his wife are now living on the island Ibiza so there is a long way to travel when visiting mink farmers. Not only in distance – also in the way of thinking. - I know how the Canadian farmers think. Everything is very different in Canada, but I know the industry there. That is a good thing about this job; I am not afraid at all, says Peter Smit.

june 2013

19


From arid desert to auctions and haute couture The newly appointed Karakul Board of Namibia, which was announced earlier this year, has only one goal: To make swakara attractive for both international buyers and Namibian farmers. By Josefine Bøgh Nedermark

Even though prices for swakara pelts were not at the September level, the pelts were in high demand and 29 buyers from 10 countries bought 71,586 swakara pelts. - Especially prices of white swakara top goods went sky high. In the commercial goods there was a slight fall, but it was still okay. Overall I am

20

satisfied, said Wessel Visser, Manager of the Karakul Board of Namibia, after the April auction. According to Wessel Visser, the new board has one main goal and that is to make sure that swakara will continue to be attractive, both for the farmers to breed and for the brokers to buy.

To make sure that the new board is representative, both types of Namibian farmers are represented; the communal farmers, who do not own their own land, and the commercial farmers, who do. - This way we make sure, that everybody gets something to say in the decision-making and that everybody is

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


happy, says Wessel Visser. Difficult to increase quantity Wessel Visser is present during the auctions to see which pelts are paid best and if there are any new trends. After the auctions he sends market reports to the farmers, so they know about any changes. - This way they can adjust their breeding material. But the animals are freerange, so it is impossible to control how much or what they eat, says Wessel Visser. Consequently, it is difficult to increase quantities, even though that is one of the focus areas for the Karakul Board of Namibia. According to Wessel Visser, they are looking at the possibility of cross breeding and other factors to increase the number of pelts for sale. - We do all we can. But much labour is needed for making pelts and the farmers need to know and feel that it is worth their while. Therefore we have to make the industry acceptable for them and make sure that it pays for farmers to sell swakara, says Wessel Visser. Quality comes first For new farmers the availability of breeding material is challenging, because it is extremely expensive for small farmers to buy. And even though some new farmers start breeding swakara, the annual number of pelts is not increasing, because in the end everything is up to the farmers. - When it rains, the farmers keep more animals for next season. That is it. It all comes down to the weather and the individual farmers, says Wessel Visser. Even though the Karakul Board of Namibia focuses on increasing the number of swakara pelts, there is not going to be more pelts, if the quality cannot keep up. - Whatever we do, quality is first priority. Some farmers do not always

june 2013

understand that we do not just sell the pelts with poorer quality under a different name, and that we want to make sure that everything that comes from our area has a specific standard – and that is what the swakara label can assure, says Wessel Visser. Inspiration from Paris For the farmers in the desert in the southwestern African land Namibia there is a long way from the swakara pelts offered at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions to the final designer creations in the world’s major fashion capitals. Therefore, Raimar von Hase, Chairman of the Karakul Board of Namibia, and Wessel Visser went on an inspiration trip to Paris with Michael Holm, Design Manager at Kopenhagen Fur. - The purpose of the trip was to give them a better understanding of the fashion industry and the culture here. It may sometimes be a little difficult to understand the completely different flow that exists in the world of fashion, says Michael Holm. He explains that it is important that even the farmers in Namibia know why things are the way they are in the fashion industry, because they live in a part of the world where the same industry does not exist. Therefore, they talked with different designers, such as Christian Lacroix and the famous Parisian furrier Mr Terzakou, about customer wishes and why Paris is a good place for swakara. - It was very inspirational to see how designers are not afraid to mix materials or use different colours. Normally, the farmers only see the skin and not the final product. Now we can show them how designers can create anything with the very unique fur, says Wessel Visser. The next swakara collection will be available at the September auction. Approximately 50,000 swakara pelts will be sold exclusively at Kopenhagen Fur.

The fur of the Namibian Karakul sheep is known as swakara, an abbreviation for South West African Karakul. Karakul sheep have been bred in Namibia since 1907, when the first sheep were imported from Central Asia. Swakara is sold exclusively through Kopenhagen Fur.

21


The mecca for skin production The annual Kopenhagen Fur Skin Exhibition attracts the global fur industry’s attention. Mink farmers and manufacturers of the mink farming and pelting industry flock to Denmark to take part in the industry show. By Hans Løgstrup Poulsen

Every year at the end of March, the Danish Fur Breeders Association holds the annual general meeting. To take advantage of the gathering of so many fur farmers Kopenhagen Fur hosts an industry show as well as the annual skin exhibition where mink farmers present their very best skins After inspecting the skins, an impartial committee of judges consisting of some of the very best farmers and Kopenhagen

22

Fur’s Quality Department staff select the best lot in every type. The mink farmers who have produced these lots are rewarded and applauded on stage. The committee is headed by Bjarne Rasmussen, Head of Quality Department. As part of his job, Bjarne Rasmussen travels all over the world to be abreast of the global quality of mink skins. Again this year, he is confident when making

his conclusion on the supply of global mink skins. - Other than Black mink skins, the best skins in the world was presented at the Kopenhagen Fur Skin Exhibition seen from the perspective of market demands, says Bjarne Rasmussen. Overwhelming interest The presence of the most outstanding

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Other than Black mink skins, the best skins in the world was presented at the Kopenhagen Fur Skin Exhibition seen from the perspective of market demands, says Bjarne Rasmussen. skins at the exhibition is a place for mink farmers to seek knowledge and guidance on how to improve their own mink skin quality. And where mink breeders gather, manufacturers for the mink farming and pelting industry also rally. The exhibition has grown in recent years due to the steady progress of the fur industry. In fact, the amount of manufacturers striving for a spot at the exhibition has turned into quite a luxury problem.

- The last two years, we have had to turn down manufacturers and place them on a waiting list. We have simply outgrown the present setup for the industry show, Bjarne Rasmussen says. 6,000 visitors from 26 countries The struggle to secure a spot at the exhibition makes good sense as the exhibition gathers the highest number of people involved in skin production on a global scale. During three days, more than

6,000 people visited the show. With visitors coming from 26 countries covering three continents, the exhibition is truly a global gathering for skin production. In Bjarne Rasmussen’s opinion, there is no doubt what makes the event a success. - We can display the best mink skins within the whole fur industry. Who involved in skin production would not be present at such an event, he asks rhetorically.

HONG KONG SHIPMENT AND COLD STORAGE • SHIPMENT BEFORE PAYMENT • VERY COMPETITIVE ALL INCLUSIVE RATES • PROMPT RELEASE IN HONG KONG Please also contact us for shipment rates to Beijing, Shanghai and other destinations.

Line Spang Logistics Manager Tel: +45 4326 1472 Mob: +45 2268 0999 lsp@kopenhagenfur.com

june 2013

Line Jørgensen Logistics Manager Tel: +45 4326 1469 Mob: +2268 0967 ljo@kopenhagenfur.com

23


THE FUSION COLLECTION VISIT GEORG JENSEN IN COPENHAGEN, AMAGERTORV 4, COPENHAGEN AIRPORT OR SØNDERGADE 1 IN AARHUS WWW.GEORGJENSEN.COM FOR ONLINE SHOP AND GLOBAL STORE LOCATOR, SHIPMENT AND GIFT SERVICES 24

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Events in copenhagen 12-24 June 2013

Exhibition

Concert

HOTSPOT CLUJ - New Romanian Art

Thirty Seconds To Mars

From virtuoso figure painting to cool conceptual art. The new hotspot for contemporary art is Romania,

The group released its debut album in 2002, but it was Concert

especially with the second album ”A Beautiful Lie” that

and right now in the city of Cluj a young generation of

Burt Bacharach

artists is churning out works of art that are arousing

For 60 years, Burt Bacharach has entertained people

subsequently released the album ”This Is War” with

attention internationally.

all over the world with his endless repertoire and

hits such as This Is War and Hurricane.

Thirty Seconds To Mars became popular. The band

classics like ”That’s What Friends Are For”, ”Close The exhibition turns the spotlight on contemporary

To You”, ”I´ll Never Fall In Love Again”, ”I Say A Little

〉21 June

art from Cluj with a selection of artists who work in a

Prayer” and ”What´s New Pussycat” .

〉Tivoli

variety of media and idioms.

The 85 year old entertainer has worked with all kinds

〉www.tivoli.dk

of artists ranging from Marlene Dietrich and Tom 〉Until 10 November

Jones to Kanye West and The Beatles and has created

〉Arken Museum

close to 50 TOP TEN hits.

〉www.arken.dk 〉15 June 〉DR Concert Hall 〉www.dr.dk

Exhibition

Flowers and World Views Step into the garden of art and explore two centuries’ of flower paintings. With the exhibition Flowers and World Views the National Gallery of Denmark invites Concert

Weber, Stenhammar og Dvorák

Exhibition

filled with flower paintings.

YOKO ONO - HALF-A-WIND SHOW A Retrospective

you to enter a seventeenth century baroque garden The exhibition delves into a period where mankind

Yoko Ono is one of the most prominent artists of our

The Italian maestro Mario Venzago returns to Tivoli to

was poised between two views of the world – a

time. In 2013 she will be 80, and to mark the occasion

perform music by Weber, Stenhammar and Dvorák

symbolic and a rather more scientific approach – and

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is showing a major

together with Swedish soloist Niklas Sivelöv and

sheds light on how this clash is evident in the art of

retrospective exhibition with a selection of the artist’s

Tivoli’s Symphony Orchestra.

flower painting.

characteristic works.

〉13 June

〉Until 20 October

〉Until 29 September

〉Tivoli Concert Hall

〉National Gallery of Denmark

〉Louisiana Museum

〉www.tivoli.dk

〉www.smk.dk

〉www.louisiana.dk

june 2013

25


kopenhagen fur

Auction schedule and Offering 2012/13

Sizes to be offered

Males December February April

June September

Black 40–30–00–3 30–00–0 30–00–0 50–40–30–00–0–1–2–3 Mahogany 30–00 40–30–00–0 40–30–00–3 30–00–0 50–40–30–00–0–1–2–3 Brown 40–30–00 40–30–00–0 50–40–30–00–3 30–00–0 50–40–30–00–0–1–2–3 Glow 40–30–00 40–30–00–0 50–40–30–00–3 30–00–0 50–40–30–00–0–1–2–3 Silverblue 30–00 40–30–00–3 30–00–0 50–40–30–00–3 0–1–2–3 White 30–00 40–30–00–3 30–00–0 50–40–30–00–3 0–1–2–3 Pearl 30–00 40–30–00–3 30–00–0 50–40–30–00–3 0–1–2–3 Females December February April June September Black 0–1–2–3 1–2–3 1–2 00–0–1–2–3–4–5 Mahogany 1–2 0–1–2–3 0–1–2–3 1–2 00–0–1–2–3–4–5 Brown 0–1–2 0–1–2–3 0–1–2–3 1–2 00–0–1–2–3–4–5 Glow 0–1–2 0–1–2–3 0–1–2–3 1–2 00–0–1–2–3–4–5 Silverblue 1–2 0–1–2–3 0–1–2–3 00–0–1–2 3–4–5 White 1–2 0–1–2–3 0–1–2–3 00–0–1–2 3–4–5 Pearl 1–2 0–1–2–3 0–1–2–3 00–0–1–2 3–4–5

Other sizes will be offered when appropriate numbers of skins are available. Types not mentioned above will be offered in those sizes, where appropriate quantities are available. Breeders and breeders lowgrades in the main types Males size 40, 30, 00 and 0 and Females size 0, 1 and 2 will be offered at the June auction.

26

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Auction dates 2012/13 December 2012 Inspection: 9 – 11 December Sales: 12 – 14 December

April 2013 Inspection: 15 – 19 April Sales: 20 – 24 April

February 2013 Inspection: 30 January – 2 February Sales: 3 – 7 February

June 2013 Inspection: 12 – 17 June Sales: 18 – 24 June

September 2013 Inspection: 1 – 6 September Sales: 7 – 13 September

December February April June September Selling days 12–14 3–7 20–24 18–24 7–13 Mink Black Mahogany Brown Glow Pearl Beige Golden Pearl White Sapphire Silverblue Black Cross Var. Cross Pastel Violet Blue Iris Jaguar Palomino Stardust Cinnamon Var. mutations Total mink

• • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

1.0 – 1.6m

4.5 – 5.5m

4.5 – 5.5m

4.5 – 5.5m

4.2 – 5.2m

• •

• •

• • • •

• •

• • •

• •

OTHER SKINS Chinchilla Swakara Foxes Rex Rabbits

Breeders and breeders lowgrades will be offered at the June auction. We reserve the right to make changes.

june 2013

27


28

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


copenhagen hotels We urge you to make your hotel reservations as early as possible.

Hotel

Cat. Address Telephone

Du Nord

(B)

Colbjørnsensgade 14,

1652 V

+ 45 3331 7750

First

(C)

Vesterbrogade 23-29,

1620 V

+ 45 3378 8000

Clarion Hotel Copenhagen

(C)

Molestien 11,

2450 SV

+ 45 7012 7373

Glostrup Park

(C)

Hovedvejen 41,

2600 Glostrup + 45 4396 0038

Admiral

(D)

Toldbodgade 24,

1253 K

Scandic Glostrup

(D)

Roskildevej 550,

2600 Glostrup + 45 4343 4200

Crown Plaza Hotel

(E)

Ørestads Blvd.

114-118 2300 S +45 8877 6655

Scandic CPH

(E)

Vester Søgade 6,

1601 V

Scandic Hvidovre

(E)

Kettevej 4.

2650 Hvidovre + 45 3686 0400

Scandic Sydhavn

(F)

Sydhavns Plads 15,

2450 SV

+ 45 8833 3666

Radisson Blu Royal

(F)

Hammerichsgacht

1611 V

+45 3342 6000

+ 45 3374 1414

+ 45 3314 3535

Radisson Blu Scandinavia* (F)

Amager Blv. 70,

2300 S

+ 45 3396 5000

Marriott - 5 stars**

(G)

Kalvebod Brygge 5,

1560 V

+ 45 8833 9900

Scandic Webers

(G)

Vesterbrogade 11B

1620 V

+ 45 3331 1432

Skt. Petri - 5 stars

(G)

Krystalgade 22,

1172 K

+ 45 3345 9800

june 2013

Hotel rates Cat. A

Dkk 600-800

Cat. B

Dkk 800-900

Cat. C

Dkk 900-1000

Cat. D

Dkk 1000-1100

Cat. E

Dkk 1100-1200

Cat. F

Dkk 1200-1400

Cat. G

Dkk 1400-1800

29


Contact Kopenhagen Fur E-mail: mail@kopenhagenfur.com Phone: +45 4326 1000 fa x: +45 4326 1126

Management

ioe@kopenhagenfur.com Torben Nielsen CEO +45 4326 1042 (secr.)

kenneth loberg director of marketing and business development +45 4326 1201

Inge Ă˜stermand Secretary (Management) +45 4326 1042

Customer department

logistics department

customers@kopenhagenfur.com Brian Tufvesson head of Customer dept.

Birgit friis Secretary

+45 4326 1401

+45 4326 1431

Christiane Rautenberg key Account manager +45 4326 1442

Annette hindborg key Account manager

Anne Lunn key Account manager

Ahmet Aydin key Account manager

Line Jørgensen Logistics Manager

+45 4326 1440

+45 4326 1443

+45 4326 1441

+45 4326 1469

Auctioneers

+45 4326 1472

area managers

Paul Pedersen Chief auctioneer

Per Knudsen Chief auctioneer

Andrej Rumjancev Area Manager, Russia

Leo Boutis Area Manager, Greece

+45 4326 1203

+45 4326 1208

+45 4326 1103

mob. +30 693 242 5858

Stig Reinhold Sales manager, auctioneer

Klaus Harlev Auctioneer

+45 4326 1209

+45 4326 1415

Kasper S. Reinbacher CONTROllER, Auctioneer

lars Skjoldega ard Auctioneer

Bjarne Rasmussen head of Quality dept.

+45 4326 1422

+45 4326 1021

+45 4326 1342

Beijing Office

Quality department

qualit ydepartment@ kopenhagenfur.com

farmer service

farmerservice@ kopenhagenfur.com

jesper Lauge Christensen head of farmer service +45 4326 1376

Reception/Booking

reception@kopenhagenfur.com

CHRIS CUI gener al manager

Lisa Yu CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

K athrine engberg Front office manager

Line Jensen Receptionist

mob. +86 139 1093 7964

mob. +86 139 1156 8019

+45 4326 1112

+45 4326 1280

angela Liu Customer Coordinator/Visa

andy chen MANUFACTURE COORDINATOR

mob. +86 138 1055 4761

mob. +86 159 0143 7370

Inge liu MARKETING COORDINATOR Tsing hua mba mob. +86 139 0106 0450

30

line spang Logistics Manager

kopenhagen studio

studio-workshop@ kopenhagenfur.com

kopenhagen

nexus

Jesper Mathiesen STUDIO DIRECTOR

Julie Maria Iversen Head of Kopenhagen Nexus

+45 4326 1102

+45 2268 0974

KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


oyster perpe tual day-date ii

Vesterbrogade 6 Ă˜stergade 22

1620 Cph. V

1100 Cph. K

+45 3311 5310

+45 3315 5310


David morgan

michael lepski

Jack felber

Infelber (Exports) Ltd 4 Elthorne Road, London N19 4AG Tel +44(20) - 7281 1966

E-mail info@infelber.com

Fax +44(20) - 7281 2398

Eurasia Furs Ltd Unit O, 10/Kaiser Estate Phase III 9-11A Hok Yuen Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, HK Tel +852 2311 9803 32

E-mail Eurasia88@biznetvigator.com

Fax +852 2721 3081 KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S


Kopenhagen Fur News - June 2013