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Abigail: abigail@tbwa-ang.com or (+356) 9929 0518
HOW
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY
Jonathan Borg
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Alan Galea
Alex Attard
Anisa Alsabri
Anthony Clarke
Anton Bell
Elisa von Brockdorff
Jonathan Borg
Justin Mamo
Maarten van Alkemade
Michaele Zammit
Pierre Balzia – Heritage Malta Publishing
TO
PRONOUNCE
PASSAĠĠ I
/pasˈsadʒi/
Here’s the breakdown: • /p/ as in pass • /a/ as in art • /sˈ/ as in sun (with stress on the following syllable) • /dʒ/ as the sound of the j in 'judge' (geminated or doubled sound) • /i/ as in eat
The word passaġġi means 'passages' in English.
The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights with regards to copyright. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied by any means without the written consent of the publisher. Editorial features and opinions expressed in Passaġġi do not necessarily reflect the views of KM Malta Airlines, the publisher, or the editorial team. Both KM Malta Airlines and the publisher do not accept responsibility for commercial and advertising content. Although the authors and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this magazine was correct before going to print, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause. Special thanks to KM Malta Airlines and VisitMalta for the provision of photographic material. Printed in Malta by Gutenberg Press. All magazine rights are reserved by KM Malta Airlines.
TBWA\ The Disruption® Company, 3rd Floor, Professional Building, Sliema Road, Gżira GZR 1633 Malta \ (+356) 2131 0608 \ tbwa-ang.com
Golden Hour in Malta WHERE TO
Malta, Gozo & Comino each offer their own magical sunset spots. Think rugged cliffs over deep blue waters and hidden bays glowing with colour. Here are the top places to catch an unforgettable sunset...
1. Dingli Cliffs
Towering over Malta’s western coast at 250 meters, the Dingli Cliffs offer the island’s ultimate sunset spot. Named after Sir Thomas Dingley, an English knight who defended the area from pirates.
2. Chapel of Immaculate Conception, Mellieħa
This quaint chapel on Malta’s northeastern coast may lack the grandeur of Baroque cathedrals, but its charm is undeniable. This spot is an easy escape for quiet reflection before enjoying a delicious meal by the sea.
3. Ta’ Ċenċ Cliffs, Gozo
These cliffs offer a breathtaking setting for a sunset from the highest point on Malta’s sister island of Gozo.
4. Wied il-Mielaħ Window, Gozo
Heading across to Gozo’s northwest coast you will discover Wied il-Mielaħ, a natural limestone archway serving as a window framing the deep blue Mediterranean horizon. Wied il-Mielaħ translates to "Salt Valley," and a hike down to the coast will reveal traces of this ancient industry.
5. Santa Marija Caves, Comino
As twilight descends, these caves transform into a mesmerising spectacle of light and shadow. The warm glow reflects against the turquoise waters, illuminating the limestone caverns.
Mdina
Behind its fortified walls, Mdina’s timeless beauty has been mesmerising visitors throughout its 4,000 years of existence. @VisitMalta
Welcome to
The KM Malta Airlines In-Flight Magazine
David Curmi Executive Chairman KM Malta Airlines
The festive season is upon us, and global appetite for travel continues to thrive. At KM Malta Airlines, we are delighted to play a part in connecting you with your loved ones and your favourite destinations during this festive time.
I am pleased to announce that the airline has secured the necessary airport slot times to operate 30 additional flight rotations to and from Malta during the busy Christmas and New Year period. Between 21st December 2024 and 5th January 2025, we will offer extra services to and from London, Vienna, Paris, Zurich, Munich and Rome, in addition to our regular winter schedule.
In line with our strategy to enhance connectivity to key European hubs and meet increasing customer demand, I am also proud to announce that KM Malta Airlines will expand our Amsterdam schedule from four services per week to daily operations effective 6th January 2025.
For passengers seeking enhanced comfort, we remind you of our Business Class Upgrade offering. Economy Class ticket holders can bid for an upgrade to Business Class on all KM Malta Airlines operated flights (excluding Catania). Successful bidders can enjoy increased comfort, gourmet meals, and priority airport services. Upgrade bids can be placed from the time of booking until
24 hours before departure through the ‘Bid for Business’ section on our website www.kmmaltairlines.com
As we celebrate the festive season, I extend heartfelt thanks to all our passengers for their continued trust, loyalty and support throughout 2024. A special appreciation also goes to our dedicated KM Malta Airlines team and associated partners for their hard work focusing on our customer needs throughout the year and ensuring smooth operations during this busy period.
Thank you for choosing KM Malta Airlines. We look forward to welcoming you on board soon in 2025.
Fiona Galea Debono Editor
The second issue of Passaġġi flies us direct into the festive season, and it’s a chance to recognise and appreciate just how much this Mediterranean island has to offer at this time of the year too.
As we seek new experiences beyond our shores during the holidays and chase that traditional pictureperfect white Christmas, this magazine serves to highlight the unique and attractive aspects of the local festivities that we may be so accustomed to.
From celebrations in the capital to a traditional chestnut and chocolatey soup; the Christmas markets mushrooming in towns and villages; and locally produced souvenir-like stocking fillers to help you with your shopping list; sacred concerts and the slapstick and parody of pantomimes; fine, festive food and fancy, celebratory cocktails with a twist… they’re all covered in the pages overleaf. And we are reminded that even without the sleigh bells and the falling snow, it’s the season to be merry in Malta too.
Check out our cultural calendar to line up an array of events for the rest of the month, be it cherished, age-old, Christmas customs, art exhibitions that depict family celebrations in typical Maltese homes,
choir festivals, Yuletide-themed workshops, or contemporary dance. All you need is to get booking and pack it all in!
It’s likely to be sunny and warm in December, and we’ll be wearing our coats only because we’ve bought them and because fashion dictates. But don’t forget your swimsuits either… A mild climate does not only mean enjoying your warming festive tipple al fresco and even a spot of lunch in the sun. It also means winter swimming is an option, and starting the New Year with a revitalisng splash in the sea is a date many would not miss.
Read on to take note of what could lift your spirits and warm your heart on the Maltese Islands this Christmas. Yes, we can tend to take this all for granted, but indeed, it’s happening right here too!
FOOD
60
Rustic, Mediterranean, flavourful
Culinary pointers from a private chef
64
Imbuljuta tal-Qastan
Fancy some chocolatey soup?
HOME 70
Merry shopping and many happy new gifts
Stay local with stocking fillers and presents this season ACTION
76
New Year’s Day dip
Winter swimming lifts the spirits
GOZO
78
On the lookout
Discovering Dwejra Tower
BUSINESS
80
More than just a shopping spree
Christmas markets galore
ART
83
Art reflects the hearth
Paintings of Maltese interiors and family feasts
AIRLINE NEWS
86
Flight, company and destination information
All you need to know about flying with KM Malta Airlines
Words by Ramona Depares
Christmas in the Capital
Valletta takes on an especially magical mantle during the festive season. Follow this day tour to soak it all in.
Ramona lived most of her life in Valletta and is the author of Beltin: Stejjer Minn Nies Minsija (Valletta: Stories of Forgotten People) by Merlin Publishers.
Photos: Jonathan Borg. The Valletta skyline by night.
It’s the city that graces a million Instagram posts; an influencer within its own right, dictating the itineraries of thousands of tourists every year… And come Christmastime, Valletta – Malta’s UNESCOheritage, baroque capital – becomes so much more than just a ‘Share’ magnet.
Enjoying a huge revival during the past two decades, it’s dotted with bars, theatres and restaurants vibing from early afternoon till the early hours of the morning, with gastronomy, theatre and music events taking place on the daily.
Join me on this one-day tour with a local – I won’t take up your time with an obvious list of must-sees, like the stunning St John’s Co-Cathedral, Renzo Piano’s Parliament House, or the panoramic Upper Barrakka Gardens, which are undoubtedly already on your list (and if not, you really need to rethink it).
St Dominic's Church.
Instead, allow me to uncover a series of lesser known, but no less enchanting, attractions. Walk with me down to the very bottom of Strait Street first thing in the morning, before the bars wake up from their slumber, right to Borg Bakery. This is the very same bakery where, come Sunday, my mother – alongside other families – would drop off her Sunday roast to be cooked in the wood oven. Today, it remains the best place to enjoy freshly baked pastries and bread, making for an excellent (and inexpensive) breakfast.
You can also sample the renowned Ħobż tal-Malti (Maltese bread), baked the traditional way. Traditional bakers are very much a dying breed in Malta, but here, you can enjoy a slice of piping-hot bread straight out of the oven to ward off the winter freshness.
You will be happy you carbed up as you walk across the fortifications to reach the area used to be known as Due Balli. Reminiscent of the Quartieri Spagnoli in Naples, this is where you will find the heart of the original residents. Many still follow the grassroots way of life, with balconies and front porches decked out in Christmas decorations, chattering across houses, chilling on the doorstep with a glass of tea –yup, drinking tea from a regular glass is a thing here. And most don’t mind photos taken, as long as you’re willing to smile and chat for a moment.
St George's Square in Christmas.
When you’ve had your fill wandering around, it’s time to drop into St Dominic’s church, a two-minute walk up Merchants Street. While its art is understandably eclipsed by the Caravaggio in the Co-Cathedral, here you can feast your eyes on masterpieces by Giuseppe Calì without crowds jostling you. It’s also an excellent location to find a moment of mindfulness away from the hustle and bustle outside. Then, when you’ve rested, drop in at the recently opened Black Friars Museum, showcasing historical artefacts from the history of the Dominican Order. There’s a good chance you’ll be in need of sustenance by the time you’ve had your fill of history and art.
And if it’s liquid sustenance you’re after, a quick pint at The Pub in Archbishop Street, two blocks up, is a must. The bar was made famous when actor Oliver Reed passed away of a heart attack during one of his infamous benders there. Not quite under the radar, but worth a stop for its unique character, today it attracts an eclectic crowd of theatre people, musicians and fans of the late actor, eager to see all the memorabilia.
There are plenty of lunch options a stone’s throw away, and with the heated outdoor eateries, you will also be able to enjoy the Christmas carols that add good cheer to the busy streets. My advice is not to be too tempted by all the different cuisines in this hectic area and to keep things light as you stretch your day in Valletta to include dinner and drinks.
A quick stop at Is-Suq tal-Belt (the Valletta Food Market) should be enough to replenish the energies; and if you’re a fan of good coffee, grab a takeout from Lot 61 next door. This is proper, ethically sourced, blow-your-socks-off stuff – ask for the Brazil beans, you’re welcome.
There are plenty of shops to keep your credit card busy as you walk around Merchants Street and Republic Street, nursing your takeaway coffee. But Valletta is not just about high-street and designer brands. Make sure you take a detour off the beaten path to Melita Street, St Paul’s Street and Old Bakery Street, as this is where you’ll find the smaller artisan shops with handcrafted jewellery, home décor and upcycled clothes.
And as the clock strikes five and the sun gets ready to set over Manoel Island, it’s time to walk up the majestic Piano steps to Hastings Gardens, oft forgotten but providing the perfect view to snap golden hour.
By now the evening crowd will have started milling into the capital, getting ready for post-work drinks and events. It’s the perfect time to drop in to Santa’s City, set up next to the iconic Triton Fountain at the entrance to Valletta. Grab some mulled wine and qagħaq tal-għasel
The view of Valletta from Sliema.
(honey rings) from the food stalls before making your way to the Ferris wheel that offers views stretching across the island.
If you’re not too tired after the day’s exploring, there are plenty of other entertainment options taking you late into the night. For fans of traditional panto, Teatru Manoel is putting up Rapunzel – make sure you get your tickets online as it tends to be very popular. If classical music is your jam, many of the Valletta churches put up Christmasrelated concerts, often without the need of purchasing tickets. The Jesuits’ Church Foundation has a full programme that you can find on their Facebook page.
Valletta is at its most beautiful after dark, and the Christmastime weather should be mild enough to allow you to enjoy outdoor drinks and dinner even after a theatre show or concert. Whether it’s a Michelin-star restaurant, or a cheeky pint and some street food that tickles your fancy, the night is yours to make the most of. And of course, it’s only fitting that you end it in Strait Street, the former red-light district that today serves more as a hub for artists and tiny cocktail bars.
MUŻA RESTAURANT
Merchants Street, Valletta
If you're looking for an extraordinary dining experience in the capital city, book a table at MUŻA Restaurant. Situated in the picturesque courtyard of an old auberge, MUŻA provides a cosy, laidback ambiance, perfect for a romantic dinner, or a night out with friends. The menu is bursting with fresh, local ingredients, and the knowledgeable staff can help you select the perfect wine to complement your meal.
(+356) 7979 0900
MUZARestaurantValletta muzarestaurant
NENU THE ARTISAN BAKER RESTAURANT
143, St Dominic Street, Valletta
At this charming local restaurant, friendly staff serve Maltese cuisine. Among the many popular dishes at Nenu are traditional rabbit, blistered octopus, fish soup, caponata, seasonal fish and the mainstay dough-based Maltese ftira, served with a variety of toppings to taste. Over 1,000 Tripadvisor reviews declared this restaurant "unmissable". You simply have to visit in Christmas before leaving Malta. Open from Monday to Sunday, lunch and dinner, booking is recommended.
(+356) 2258 1535 nenuthebaker nenuthebaker
The Ferris wheel at Santa's City at the entrance to Valletta.
Teatru Manoel. suggests
Words by Heritage Malta
The national agency for museums, conservation practice and cultural heritage, it is the guardian of over 8,000 years of history.
If this is your first visit to the Maltese Islands, you cannot leave without ticking these sites off your list.
The Inquisitor’s Palace
Birgu
The Inquisitor’s Palace is both a historic house museum and the National Museum of Ethnography. Built in the 1530s, it was the powerhouse of the Holy Roman Inquisition that dominated Malta for over 224 years. After the French abolished the Inquisition in Malta upon their arrival in 1798, the building served French and British rules, as well as the Dominican Order for a period of time after World War II. The Inquisitor’s Palace also houses the National Textiles Collection.
The Grand Master’s Palace
Valletta
Newly restored and proudly dominating St George’s Square, the Grand Master’s Palace invites you to wander along its 450-year history as a centre of power and the symbol of a nation. Presently the seat of the Office of the President of Malta, the palace grants visitor access to over 85 per cent of the building’s footprint, including the magnificent Armoury. Its restoration project was partly financed via the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF).
The National Museum of Archaeology
Valletta
With artefacts dating back from Malta’s Neolithic period (5900 – 2500 BC) up till the early Phoenician period (8th – 6th century BC), the National Museum of Archaeology is definitely your first step to understanding the richness of the land you tread on, its people and their ancestors. Its ground floor is dedicated to the Neolithic period, while the upper floor currently houses the Bronze Age and the Phoenician period sections. The museum regularly hosts temporary exhibitions.
Ġgantija Gozo
The Ġgantija Archaeological Park complex is a unique prehistoric monument listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Situated in Xagħra, it consists of two structures built between c.3600 and c.3200 BC. Notwithstanding its age, the monument survives in a considerably good state of preservation. Entrance to the Ġgantija Archaeological Park is through an interpretation centre, which houses a selection of the most significant artefacts discovered at various prehistoric sites in Gozo.
MUŻA – The National Community Art Museum Valletta
The acronym MUŻA refers to the mythological Muses of Classical Antiquity and to the Maltese term for artistic inspiration. Through a varied collection of paintings, sculptures, furniture, silver pieces, works on paper and objets d’art, MUŻA’s main focus is to show artistic developments in Malta impacted by its Mediterranean context, as well as the cultural influences resulting from the governance of the Order of St John (1530 – 1798), the British Empire (1800 – 1964), the post-Independence period (from 1964) and the overall impact of the Church.
The Malta Maritime Museum Birgu
A stroll along the beautiful Birgu waterfront is not quite complete without a visit to the Malta Maritime Museum, housed within the Old Naval Bakery and charting 7,000 years of Malta’s maritime history, from prehistory to the present day. The museum partly reopened its doors in February 2024, having been closed for some years for a major rehaul, partially supported by the EEA Norway Grants. Presently, it houses a one-of-a-kind exhibition titled An Island at the Crossroads.
“Built by gentlemen for gentlemen” in the 1500s on the Sciberras Peninsula under the watchful eye of Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette and named after him, the capital city, Valletta, is known for its baroque landmarks, museums, palaces and grand churches... and now also for a thriving nightlife scene.
BEACHES
Cave
‘Lampuki’ Dolphin Fish
Crystal Lagoon
Popeye Village
Dingli Cliffs
Rabat
Dingli
St Paul’s Bay Mellieħa
Sannat
Sanap Cliffs
Capers
Wild Fennel
‘Luzzu’
‘Qarnita’ Octopus
The Triton Fountain at night.
Republic Street Christmas lights.
The original townhouses on Barbara Bastion. Republic Square and the old Bibliotheca building.
Words by Alexandra Aquilina
Alexandra is an entrepreneur, screen printer, musician and multimedia artist, based between Malta and Berlin.
Berlin in December
Whether you're a family with young kids, or a diehard clubber, Berlin has something unique to offer everyone. With its cosy markets, eclectic art and vibrant culture, the city is a mix of nostalgia, creativity and holiday cheer. Visit it through the eyes of an artist.
Berlin holds a vibrant and turbulent history, drawing in a rich mix of personalities over the years. From David Bowie and Marlene Dietrich to the Brothers Grimm and the avantgarde Peaches, Berlin has long been a city for outcasts, artists and dreamers, earning the nickname "poor but sassy". Whether you're a family with young kids or a diehard clubber, Berlin has something unique to offer everyone.
Narrowing down a list of must-see spots for a city like this is no easy
feat. So, let me – a Maltese creative enchanted by Berlin’s arts scene, soul-warming food and hidden treasures – share a few of my favourite places to explore this December.
As winter sets in and the days get shorter, Berlin’s pace quiets. Many expats head home for the holidays, seeking respite from the frosty winds. For those who crave the brisk air, though, Berlin in winter has a cosy charm – and maybe even a chance for a snowy Christmas.
Brandenburg Gate.
mustard. It is eaten raw as a spread.
03. Rollmops (herring roll)
Rollmops is herring fillet in which a filling of onions and cucumbers is rolled up. The rollmops is held together by two small wooden sticks.
Christmas markets
A classic December tradition in Germany is the Weihnachtsmarkt, or Christmas market, and Berlin celebrates its subcultures through a variety of themed markets.
> Up north, you’ll find the Gendarmenmarkt (held temporarily at Bebelplatz due to construction through 2024), a traditional market known for its beautifully lit Christmas tree, historic buildings and handcrafted goods.
> For a Scandinavian twist, head over to the Lucia Christmas Market at the Kulturbrauerei, a former brewery with historic brick buildings. Here, you’ll find Scandinavian foods like raclette, elk meat and Swedish Glögg to warm you up.
> A unique option with a charitable angle is the Rixdorf Christmas Market, hosted in Neukölln on the second weekend of Advent. This event donates proceeds to the local community and includes a blacksmith workshop, a children’s choir and an appearance from old St Nicholas.
> If you’re after a more rebellious scene, the Berlin Punk Rock Market at Cassiopeia on the RAW Gelände on 15th December is a must. This market, set in a legendary punk club, offers second-hand LPs, clothes and creations from local creatives.
The RAW Gelände, near Warschauer Straße, is an eclectic cultural centre, set on a former Deutsche Bahn site, where remnants of old train tracks can still be found. This space is a hub for exhibitions, clubs, rehearsal spaces, a skate park, a bouldering hall, and even a Sunday flea market.
Not far away is Boxhagener Platz, affectionately known as "Boxi," which comes alive every Sunday with second-hand fashion, jewellery, furniture and quirky finds. The square is surrounded by restaurants and cafés, making it easy to cap off a day of treasure hunting with some well-earned refreshments.
Shopping in Berlin isn’t complete without diving into its vibrant second-hand scene. Berliners are known for their creativity and eye for quirky, quality items, often found at bargain prices in flea markets and charity shops scattered across the city. Vintage enthusiasts can find a treasure trove of unique items at the city’s many vintage stores.
KM Malta Airlines operates regular flights from Malta International Airport (MLA) to Berlin (BER) kmmaltairlines.com
For the art lovers
Art lovers should head to West Berlin for an immersive experience. Start with the Berlinische Galerie, which showcases modern art from 1870 onwards, including Dada, New Objectivity and Eastern European avantgarde pieces. Then hop over to the recently reopened Neue Nationalgalerie, an architectural masterpiece dedicated to 20th-century art.
A short walk away is the Gemäldegalerie, housing one of the world's leading collections of European paintings from the 13th to 18th centuries. For design enthusiasts, the Bauhaus Archive – temporarily relocated but still close by – offers a peek into the pioneering world of modern design.
For art and design shopping, Berlin offers a few standout stores. Modulor at Moritzplatz is ideal for modern art, stationery and architectural supplies, while Boesner is a haven for traditional art supplies like paints, canvases and sculpting tools. The impressive collections at these stores might just inspire you to bring an extra suitcase!
And for a hidden gem, make your way to Neurotitan, a tucked-away graphic novel and comic bookstore in the depths of the alley next to the Hackeschen Höfe – one of Berlin’s most vibrant and artistic courtyards.
After exploring Berlin's markets and art spaces, warm up with some unusual winter activities. Stadtbad Neukölln, a historical indoor heated pool, invites you to swim laps surrounded by elegant neo-classical architecture, with thermal saunas for an added dose of relaxation.
For outdoor fun, head to the ice-skating rink by Tempelhofer Feld – a vast open space that was once an airport. Locals enjoy this park year-round, and in winter, you can skate beneath the trees before indulging in a bratwurst and mulled wine.
Film buffs won’t want to miss Berlin’s historic cinemas. The city’s film scene is steeped in history, as celebrated by events like the Berlinale. Catch a movie at one of Berlin’s historic theatres, where many films are shown in English or with English subtitles (look for OV for original versions or OmU for original versions with German subtitles).
For a unique experience, visit Babylon Kino at RosaLuxemburg-Platz on Saturdays for their free midnight silent film screenings, complete with live organ music. The cinema also hosts classic films with full orchestral accompaniment, such as the iconic Metropolis
Berlin in December is a mix of nostalgia, creativity and holiday cheer, making it an ideal destination for anyone seeking a memorable winter getaway. With its cosy markets, eclectic art and vibrant culture, the city will charm and surprise you, leaving you with a suitcase full of stories – and maybe even a few souvenirs.
Alexandra Aquilina, known for her hand-printing business, Screen Girl Merch, at work.
Bauhaus Archive.
Babylon Kino at Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz.
Scenic panoramic view of Gamla Stan in Stockholm at sunset.
Words by Caroline Paris
Caroline is an e-commerce product manager by day, who moonlights as an Instagrammer and stylist. She loves fashion, travelling and everything in between, always seeking fresh inspiration from the world around her.
Stockholm: A Nordic Gem of History and Modern Design
Compact and efficient, Stockholm is ideal for a short trip, allowing you to explore its beauty, warmth and vibrant design culture with ease. It’s a city where tradition and innovation truly shine.
When it comes to Scandinavian cities, Stockholm is an undeniable frontrunner, where modern style meets rich history. After years of work trips, I’m lucky enough to think of Stockholm as almost a second home. It’s a city I look forward to visiting every time – an elegant, magnetic blend of tradition and Nordic charm.
Beyond its iconic landmarks, Stockholm is a place where design isn’t just seen; it’s experienced, from carefully curated shops to world-renowned restaurants and beautifully crafted homes.
Stockholm is the capital of Scandinavian design, where form and function exist in perfect harmony. Rooted in Swedish ideals of simplicity, sustainability and craftsmanship, Stockholm’s aesthetic combines minimalism with timeless sophistication.
The first area that captured my heart is Gamla Stan (the Old Town). Far from being a tourist trap, it’s one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval quarters. Here, pastel-coloured façades and winding cobblestone streets transport you back in time. A stroll reveals gems like Storkyrkan Cathedral and the Royal Palace, where the changing of the guard attracts crowds. It’s a photographer’s paradise, with charming scenes at every turn.
Next, hop on a scenic ferry to Djurgården Island for a day of iconic sights. The Vasa Museum is a marvel, showcasing a remarkably preserved 17thcentury warship, while Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum, brings Swedish history to life with traditional homes, folk music, and even a zoo with Nordic animals.
You can reach Stockholm via Amsterdam, Berlin, Brussels, Paris or London, connecting on one of KM Malta Airlines partner flights (Air France, KLM or SAS).
Storkyrkan Cathedral.
ABBA The Museum.
Djurgården Island.
Vasa Museum.
Caroline Paris.
The City Hall.
“ Rooted in Swedish ideals of simplicity, sustainability and craftsmanship, Stockholm’s aesthetic combines minimalism with timeless sophistication.”
In winter, Skansen transforms into a Christmas village – a magical wonderland in the snow. If you’re up for a thrill, Gröna Lund is nearby, offering roller coasters and live music all summer. Just next door, ABBA The Museum makes for a fun stop for music fans.
For food lovers, Stockholm won’t disappoint. The city boasts 12 Michelinstarred restaurants, including Frantzén, a three-star culinary icon known for innovative Nordic cuisine.
Even Stockholm’s public spaces embody design, with meticulously maintained areas and artistic touches everywhere, from the subway art installations to the architecture of Stadshuset (City Hall).
Compact and efficient, Stockholm is ideal for a short trip, allowing you to explore its beauty, warmth and vibrant design culture with ease – a city where tradition and innovation truly shine. suggests
When in Stockholm
> For an alternative, Södermalm is filled with vintage shops, independent stores and unique finds at spots like Nitty Gritty and Grandpa. It’s a lively neighbourhood, perfect for those seeking out the city’s artsy edge.
> For breathtaking views, head to Mosebacke Terrace for sunset or Monteliusvägen at sunrise – two unforgettable spots overlooking the city.
> Shopping here is equally enticing. Östermalm is a must for high-end fashion and interior design, with boutiques showcasing iconic Scandinavian brands. Visit Svenskt Tenn, a treasure trove of modern décor, especially known for Josef Frank’s bold patterns.
Don’t leave without trying a – the classic Swedish coffee break. Vete-Katten (cinnamon buns) and other pastries. For something savoury, offers traditional Swedish
Discover a life of luxury at the exclusive Verdala Terraces, Malta’s most sought-after residential haven, nestled in the charming town of Rabat. Located just a short distance from the historic Citadel of Mdina, this lavish collection of residences, duplexes, and penthouses offers an unparalleled level of elegance, all enveloped by the natural beauty of the Maltese countryside.
Words by Thomas Camilleri
Setting the scene
A newly refurbished theatre in the heart of Sliema promises to be not only about performances but also a community space. Kicking off with a bang for its first Christmas, the reborn 116-year-old Teatru Salesjan is staging the traditional pantomime, so brace yourselves for a blast!
The founder of Lazarus Tiles, Thomas's project saves and documents old Maltese cement tiles.
“Come Sunday, all of us Sliema youngsters, we knew where we’d be,” recounts Alan Montanaro, of Maltese Panto fame. “At 2.30pm, all sat down in the Salesian auditorium, watching some tired old movie –usually a musical, a Western, or badly-dubbed kung fu flick. The seats were uncomfortable, the place wasn’t heated, but we were all happy and safe.”
Alan laughs, recounting how “...a weary priest would inevitably appear at some point, shining a torch in our faces when we got too rowdy – it’s something we all remember so well.”
This was a very different time for Teatru Salesjan, though I won’t elaborate on when it was, or Alan will never forgive me. It’s now an exciting time for many at the theatre, with swift winds of change blowing.
Founded over a century ago, this has always been a space for the community. Although a small country, the Maltese tend to drive everywhere, so having a community theatre within Sliema is a blessing for all those within walking distance.
Photos: Justin Mamo.
Actor Alan Montanaro (centre) and the cast of Panto.
After many years of quietly plodding along, more interest from beyond the local community started to grow. The theatre and arts scene in Malta is rich and vibrant and new spaces are always sought after. Following several of the hugely successful Comedy Knights shows, which packed the theatre out for weeks on end, an intensive renovation that was sorely needed kicked off.
The process was not simple. Being a community-run space, there were many superfluous, if well-intended, accretions added on throughout the years. “Thankfully, a number of
photographs from the early days of the theatre had been documented by the Salesian community,” architect Chris Briffa explains.
“We strived to retain most of the auditorium’s internal elements since, to my mind, a successful restoration project needs to be merely a small chapter in the wider story. The new balcony, mainstage, orchestra pit and the fly loft became the main interventions, while the rest was restoration and acoustic cladding.”
No expense was spared back in 1908 when the theatre
was commissioned by the philanthropists Alfons Maria Galea and his father-in-law Joseph John Fatullah Hannah Asphar. Rarely would one find a proscenium arch as beautiful as the one that graces this stage, painted by none other than Giuseppe Calì. Though superbly built, times changed drastically and after two World Wars and several decades following that, the space was ill-equipped for contemporary use.
“We needed a building that would allow us to grow and nurture new ventures. We believe that achieving self-sustainability means
being fully free from public funding to cover our fixed costs – if possible,” says James Spiteri Tanti. He knows this only too well, being one of the five members of the executive committee – a job he carries out voluntarily.
“The café is another aspect of trying to extend the daily life of the theatre, which tended to be mostly active in the evenings with rehearsals and performances. And the planned pedestrianisation of the street outside will also help boost the social aspect, with patrons being able to enjoy a chat and a drink after watching a show here,” James continues.
This Christmas, the first since the re-opening, promises to be an invigorating time for Teatru Salesjan, but not only for them. The Malta Amateur Dramatic Club, famous for its long-running Christmas Pantomime, have chosen to stage their annual marathon of performances here, something Steve Casaletto, chairman of the MADC and director of the Panto, is pretty thrilled about.
“Its central location, long-standing reputation as a beloved theatrical space, and ample seating capacity – all with great visibility – make it an ideal choice for welcoming audiences of all ages. After our initial meeting with the TS team, we were both impressed and excited by the vision they shared for its future.”
It’s not all about big, longer-running productions though. Over the past few years, the RoaringVoices programme was instrumental in providing a space for young, inexperienced actors, who wanted to train in
stagecraft through Shakespeare. The company ambitiously staged Coriolanus in October, transforming the auditorium into a post-apocalyptic wasteland.
It was a project that local actress Polly March dedicated so much time and energy to. She sadly passed away during rehearsals for the show, so she never got to see the final production. But she leaves behind a great host of young actors, who have benefitted immeasurably from all she had to pass on. This is what Teatru Salesjan is all about.
“Hats off to Teatru Salesjan for welcoming us in and to the MADC for taking the plunge,” Alan rounds off, with nervous excitement in his voice. “Bringing the Panto here is a full-circle moment for me, with Sliema being my childhood home. Those lucky enough to get tickets will have a blast, that’s for sure.”
Ebenezer Scrooge! The Panto opens on Boxing Day, and you can follow Teatru Salesjan on social media. Even better, go visit!
Words by
This month’s cultural calendar EVENT SPOTLIGHT
Malta and Gozo come alive at Christmas with a colourful line-up of events for all ages. From uplifting concerts and madcap pantos to inspiring exhibitions and dance performances, the islands offer countless ways to get into the holiday spirit with family and friends. To help you explore the season’s best moments, Inkontru.app has hand-picked a selection of must-see events. Enjoy the magic!
Joseph Calleja Christmas Special
When: 20th December
Where: MFCC, Ta’ Qali
Celebrate the season with Malta’s own world-renowned tenor, Joseph Calleja, in his annual Christmas concert, promising a stirring blend of classical and contemporary operatic excellence. Known for his “golden voice” and a career that spans over two decades, Calleja has performed at some of the world’s most prestigious opera houses and earned multiple Grammy nominations. This year, he’s joined by the celebrated Italian operatic pop trio Il Volo, who will be adding their signature style to the evening. Accompanied by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra under Mro Aurelio Belli and the BOV Joseph Calleja Children’s Choir, this event promises an unforgettable showcase of soaring voices, festive spirit and the timeless beauty of music.
The Magical Illuminated Trail
When: 25th November - 7th January
Where: Verdala Palace, Buskett
Embark on an enchanting after-dark journey as the historic Verdala Palace gardens are transformed by stunning illuminated sculptures, light installations and whimsical displays that will dazzle the whole family.
Visual Arts Exhibition: Anthony Spagnol
When: 3rd December - 8th January
Where: Grand Master’s Palace, Valletta
Head on a visual journey by Valletta Cultural Agency through the works of Maltese artist Anthony Spagnol – from his early figurative pieces to his latest abstracts, all housed within the majestic baroque halls of the Grand Master’s Palace.
Malta International Christmas Choir Festival
When: 6th - 8th December
Where: Various churches around Malta
Embrace the spirit of Christmas with local and international choirs performing carols and festive hymns across Malta’s beautiful churches, bringing a heartwarming soundtrack to the season.
The Italian Tenors
When: 21st December
Where: MCC, Valletta
After a sold-out European tour, The Italian Tenors bring their mix of operatic arias, Neapolitan classics, and ‘popera’ hits to Malta for a highly anticipated performance that promises a few surprises.
Glenn Miller Orchestra
When: 28th December
Where: MCC, Valletta
Swing into the festive season with the legendary Glenn Miller Orchestra, performing big band hits alongside special arrangements of holiday classics for a truly holly jolly Christmas.
The Nutcracker
When: 9th - 12th December
Where: Teatru Manoel, Valletta
Moveo Dance Company presents an original twist on The Nutcracker, blending Tchaikovsky’s classic score with contemporary choreography, reimagining this timeless tale for a new generation.
Con Tempo
When: 12th December
Where: Teatru Manoel, Valletta
An evening of masterful musical exploration as KorMalta, directed by Riccardo Bianchi, performs classical and contemporary pieces spanning from early 20th-century chamber music to modern works.
Rapunzel – A Tangled Panto
When: 22nd December - 5th January
Where: Teatru Manoel, Valletta
Get ready for a hilarious holiday romp as Teatru Manoel’s panto retells the fairytale of Rapunzel with wild slapstick, pop song parodies, and all the glitter and giggles a Christmas show needs.
TRADITIONAL FEASTS & CELEBRATIONS
Religious celebrations like Christmas continue to hold deep significance to the Maltese, reflecting the islands’ long-rooted spiritual heritage. Parishes organise ceremonies and processions, rooted in age-old traditions and passed down through generations, showcasing how faith remains a living part of daily life. These sacred events evoke a sense of nostalgia, connecting communities to their rich history and cultural identity. Be sure to visit Inkontru. app for a comprehensive guide to upcoming religious celebrations and processions across the islands.
Christmas in Malta
With its rich Catholic heritage, Christmas in Malta is filled with cherished traditions and cultural touches, creating a unique holiday experience that is not to be missed.
During Advent, many locals take pride in crafting their own Christmas cribs, known as presepji. These folksy displays, often set up in homes and makeshift exhibition areas, feature lovingly handmade figurines of Joseph and Mary around the manger, attended by the Magi, shepherds, angels and farm animals. Many even add lights and water features. Head to parish centres and keep an eye out for welcoming signs inviting you to view these charming dioramas.
Another age-old Christmas custom is the procession of Il-Bambin (the Christ Child). A few days before Christmas, a chorus of carolsinging children parade through Valletta’s festooned thoroughfares to lay Baby Jesus down in a chosen church or nativity scene.
On Christmas Eve, families gather at parish churches to celebrate Midnight Mass. Churches are dressed up to the nines, featuring Paschal candles, nativity scenes, and festive touches like bright scarlet poinsettias and ġulbiena plants (vetches), which dangle from altars. A beloved tradition during the service is Il-Priedka tatTifel (the child’s sermon), where a young child recites a heartfelt sermon from memory, chronicling the story of Jesus's birth.
Once the priest offers his final festive blessing, the congregation spills out into the night. Many families then treat themselves to a traditional Christmas breakfast, heading to restaurants that stay open to serve this late-night feast. With hearts and tummies content, they finally return home to rest before a packed day of present-giving and feasting.
WORKSHOPS & MASTERCLASSES
Learn a new skill, immerse yourself in traditional crafts, or try your hand at something completely different at these upcoming workshops and masterclasses.
Christmas Mug Painting Workshop
When: 6th & 12th December
Where: Art Academy, Mosta and Żurrieq
Design and paint your own Christmasthemed ceramic mug, using colourful, food-safe glazes. Afterwards, fire it in a kiln for a stunning, gift-ready finish.
Family Workshop: Felt Christmas Ornaments
When: 11th & 17th December
Where: Art Academy, Mosta and Żurrieq
A family-friendly workshop where you’ll learn simple sewing techniques to decorate your own felt creations with buttons, beads and festive details, adding a home-made touch to your holiday décor.
Creativity & Courage
When: 6th - 12th December
Where: Din l-Art Ħelwa, Valletta
Artist Marjolein Jaspers-Caous explores the transformative power of art through hands-on sessions and art coaching, inspiring ways to unlock creativity and empowerment.
Discover and experience more with Inkontru.app, your webbased application, that prioritises functionality and performance, meaning no need to download, seamless updates, no storage space taken and easy sharing.
The Cippi of Malta
THEIR STORY AND VOYAGE
HERITAGE HAPPENINGS
The Feast of Saint Nicholas
Every 6th December, the village of Siġġiewi celebrates the winter feast of Saint Nicholas, a cheerful prelude to Malta’s holiday season. In the morning, young children from the local primary school carry the statue of their patron saint through the village, where they are joined by a marching band as they make their way to the parish church. After an evening Mass, celebrations
including Christmas Eve dinner, Christmas Day lunch, plus NYE dinner, and New Year's Day lunch. With multiple cosy rooms to explore, Marilù’s invites you to feel at home away from home while savouring Maltese cuisine in a warm, welcoming atmosphere, perfect for creating unforgettable holiday memories.
Director of Moveo, Dorian Mallia, offers a peek at what audiences can expect from their contemporary reimagining of enduring Christmas favourite The Nutcracker at Teatru Manoel:
WHAT INSPIRED YOUR CONTEMPORARY APPROACH TO THE NUTCRACKER?
MEET THE ARTIST USE
We are blending the classic story with a modern dance style, where the toys take on a bigger role. Our choreography reimagines traditional ballet moves, using grounded, expressive movements to give it a fresh, new feel.
HOW HAS TCHAIKOVSKY’S ICONIC MUSIC SHAPED YOUR VISION?
Tchaikovsky’s music is the heart of the piece and really guides our choreography. We’re keeping the original score but adding some magical touches to bring more depth to the movement on stage.
WHAT DO YOU HOPE AUDIENCES TAKE AWAY?
I’d love for audiences of all ages, but especially kids, to walk away excited to imagine, play and create their own worlds.
Step into Malta’s scene with Inkontru.app, your personal guide to all the latest art, culture and heritage events in Malta and Gozo. More than just a calendar, this app connects you with exciting events, artists and creators, through exclusive interviews and video features. Easily find event details, get directions and purchase tickets – all in one place. Need a ride? Book a cab effortlessly through the app and share your plans with friends and family with ease.
TRAVEL SMART, TRAVEL IN STYLE
What’s up?
Words by Alexandra Alden
A Maltese singer-songwriter, Alexandra is based in Rotterdam.
December in Malta is where history meets holiday magic and music fills the cooler air. Here’s what’s trending this season:
When winter's gentle embrace reaches the Mediterranean, Malta transforms into an enchanting fusion of festive spirit and timeless charm. Across this small archipelago, baroque churches stand proudly against azure skies, offering unique celebrations that blend centuries-old traditions with contemporary festivities.
From sacred sounds and classical nights to contemporary culture and dance, December turns Malta into a musical wonderland, where grand concerts and intimate performances create a festive symphony across the islands.
At the heart of this celebration stands St John's Co-Cathedral, its ornate baroque interior and Caravaggio masterpieces providing an unforgettable backdrop for the season's sacred sounds. The Cathedral's beloved annual Christmas concert offers a transcendent evening of music, including carols, all enhanced by remarkable acoustics that have captivated audiences for centuries.
Malta's artistic landscape shines particularly bright this winter at MICAS, the island's ground-breaking new contemporary art space in Floriana. Here, a dramatic modern roof sweeps over centuriesold fortress walls, creating an unforgettable silhouette against the winter sky. The terraced galleries become especially magical during the holiday season, as soft Mediterranean light streams through the innovative design, illuminating Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos's monumental installations. Her works, including the awe-inspiring Tree of Life and Garden of Eden, transform everyday materials into extraordinary statements that resonate deeply with the season's themes of home and spiritual reflection.
Evening Notes and Night Rhythms
As day turns to night, Malta's vibrant music scene offers more intimate experiences. In Valletta, the trendy Babel bar hosts nightly live music in a low-key, chic setting, where local artists gather in the narrow Archbishop Street behind the Grand Master's Palace.
Throughout the archipelago, the power-pop sister duo New Victorian's chapel performances blend sacred spaces with contemporary sounds, while jazz enthusiasts find their groove at Storeroom in Ta' Xbiex, or Offbeat Music Bar in Valletta’s Merchants Street.
St John's Co-Cathedral.
Festive Traditions and New Year's Magic
The season pulses with unique local traditions as December draws to a close. After Boxing Day, Pudina tal-Milied at Liquid Club transforms quiet evenings into warm gatherings, where friends share mulled wine and memories. Young locals know to save energy for the After Nanna's Christmas Pudding party, a beloved escape from family teatime traditions.
As the year ends, the historic Grand Harbour becomes a canvas for spectacular fireworks, their reflections dancing across waters that have witnessed centuries of celebrations.
Malta is gearing up for an exciting range of New Year's Eve celebrations to welcome 2025. At Montekristo Estate's Renaissance venue, Glitter NYE 2025 offers a family-friendly nostalgic journey through the decades, with DJ Pierre Cordina spinning classic hits from the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s.
And for those seeking a more sophisticated evening, the historic Phoenicia Malta presents an elegant gala dinner and party, featuring live music in the grandeur of its ballroom. Guests can indulge in an exquisite multi-course feast while enjoying the prestigious hotel's sparkling atmosphere and timeless luxury.
Dance music enthusiasts can head to Aria Complex, where DJ Sue headlines an impressive line-up, featuring local favourites Alex Tonna, Cathy K, Darryl, and Chris Funkytown. The venue's stateof-the-art sound system and mesmerising light shows promise an unforgettable night of house and techno across multiple rooms.
Adding a unique twist to this year's celebrations, Teatru Malta premieres 1881, an innovative immersive theatre experience in Attard. This ground-breaking production, running from NYE until March 2025, combines elements of escape rooms and interactive storytelling. Limited to just 30 audience members per night, participants can explore freely, interact with characters, and make choices that influence the story's ending.
Whether joining festivities in Valletta's bustling streets, St Julian's vibrant scene, or more sophisticated celebrations, visitors can enhance their experience by packing layers for crisp evenings, booking restaurants and events early, and arranging New Year's Eve transportation in advance.
VIP hot spot!
What’s happening and who’s visiting the Maltese Islands… From royalty to yacht racing and fashion events, check out what went down and couldn’t be missed.
A reception to mark the start of the Rolex Middle Sea Race was hosted by Edwards Lowell at the Mediterranean Conference Centre in Valletta.
The Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh were in Malta on a four-day royal visit to mark the 60th anniversary of the country's independence and celebrate its shared heritage with the UK.
Jonathan Borg.
JohnHuber,BaronessJustinePergola, Gabriella Briffa Darmanin and Charlo Briffa.
Photos:
Maltese fashion house Charles & Ron made a splash with their Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Beneath the Waves – a celebration of the vibrant underwater world surrounding the Maltese Islands and in particular the stunning waters of Gozo.
DALMA
MFCC, Ta’ Qali
Dalma Festival returns for a second edition on 6th and 7th December at MFCC, Ta' Qali, for a pulsating techno odyssey. After last year’s much-talkedabout debut, excitement levels for the 2024 event are running high. This year's line-up features Amelie Lens, I Hate Models, Paula Temple B2B SNTS, BLK., Oscar Mulero & DVS1, BIIA, Dave Clarke and many more, making this an unmissable techno celebration.
dalmafestival
dalmafestival.com
ŻFINMADE 2024 – CORPOREALITY
Spazju Kreattiv, Valletta
ŻfinMade is a biennial programme that invites six choreographers from Malta to create a series of solos and duets with the ŻfinMalta company dancers, each responding to the theme ‘Our bodies in a digital world’. ŻfinMade is presented as three works per night, performed over four nights on 5th–8th December.
spazjukreattiv kreattivita.org
Designer duo Charles and Ron Van Maarschalkerweerd Borg.
Photos: Anton Bell. Award-winning fashion influencer Sarah Zerafa.
Photo: Anisa Alsabri. Behind the scenes...
Marisa Grima, Yvonne Desira Buttigieg and Noelene Miggiani.
SPAZJU KREATTIV, MALTA’S NATIONAL CENTRE FOR CREATIVITY
Castille Place, Valletta
Elevate your holiday experience in Valletta with a curated blend of creativity at Spazju Kreattiv. Nestled in the heart of Malta’s capital city, Valletta, Spazju Kreattiv is a cultural hub that celebrates art and creativity through a multidisciplinary programme of events, including visual arts exhibitions, performing arts and the only arthouse cinema in Malta. If you’re in Valletta, drop by and explore its unique spaces that seamlessly blend historical charm with contemporary creativity.
spazjukreattiv kreattivita.org
VALLETTA WATERFRONT
Triq il-Vittmi Furjaniżi tal-Gwerra, Floriana
Stop at the 1752-built Valletta Waterfront, and arrive at a world of festive magic, featuring a towering 35-foot tree, larger-than-life characters, including a 20-foot nutcracker soldier and a jumbo gingerbread man. The Valletta Waterfront presents choirs, marching bands and majorettes, a Baby Jesus procession and more, in a packed calendar of activities. Whether you’re in the mood for a casual bite or a hearty meal, Valletta Waterfront’s variety of cuisines promises something to enjoy on this special journey. Steam into the New Year in style, with a New Year’s Eve filled with live music and fireworks in a warm atmosphere. vallettawaterfront vallettawaterfront.com/christmas
Words by Adriana Bishop
Adriana is a former news journalist and travel PR executive, now a freelance writer based in Switzerland, with her heart and eyes always set on her forever home Malta.
Our home is a piece of history
More than just museums, these heritage homes are a real immersion into the life of a Maltese household over the centuries and across social classes. Meet their current owners, who are busy keeping history alive.
Have you ever played the “who lives there” game, where you try to imagine the kind of person who would reside in a particular house? What stories hide behind those walls? What have those doors and windows witnessed? And how do they keep those brass door knockers so shiny?
Traditional Maltese townhouses and larger palazzos are like jewel boxes, demure on the outside, encasing untold gems within, behind an austere façade and colourful wooden balconies, whose windows are obscured by louvered shutters and lace curtains.
Sometimes, you cannot even guess the true size of the property from the outside as that modest front door might lead down a narrow hallway, opening up onto a mature garden at the back, or a plain entryway in a narrow street could reveal a majestic courtyard, or a home fit for a future queen as in the case of Villa Guardamangia for the then Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip from 1949 to 1951.
DID YOU KNOW?
Maltese houses used to be built with very thick outer walls known as “double walls”, 120cm thick. There would be a gap of around 80cm between the outer and inner walls, filled with a mixture of soil and stone chippings. This thickness made the houses as strong as a fortress. Together with exceptionally high ceilings – often well over 3m – they had very good insulation against the winter cold and summer heat.
CASA BERNARD, RABAT
When teachers Josette and Georges Magri bought Casa Bernard in Rabat in 1993, they knew they were not just acquiring a new family home. They had purchased a significant piece of history, and they had to come to terms with that.
“Living in a heritage home is not easy,” concedes Josette. “You are in a little way a showpiece of Malta, so you try to do it as best as you can with regard to cleanliness, period features and much more.”
Casa Bernard is named after Dr Salvatore Bernard, a Valletta-born French physician, scientist, philosopher and personal doctor to the Grand Master, who lived in the palazzo from the late 1750s until his death in 1806. The Bernards were a family of doctors and continued living in the palazzo till the second quarter of the 20th century.
However, the building is even older than that. Originally a medieval watchtower, built on Roman foundations, it was later extended and remodelled into the double-fronted palazzo we see today, with baroque additions. That’s a lot of history to dust off and exhibit to the public, never mind getting the house ready for the in-laws.
“The house has now been in the family for 36 years and many of the contents for more than five generations,” continues Josette proudly. But being the custodian of
a place with so much history comes with its own “daily challenges”, and we’re not just talking cobwebs.
“We opened the house to the public to share with locals and foreigners the culture, history and art that little/great Malta can offer.”
Casa Bernard has been open to the public for over 20 years, and the Magris live in a private section in an adjacent house, with their own bedrooms and TV room. But there is only one kitchen in the property, so “we are always there”. Yes, palazzo owners use kitchens just like the rest of us.
“Maintaining it is expensive, difficult and challenging. But you either do it well, with constant help, or you just close down,” says Josette. Now retired from their teaching jobs, she and her husband are often on site to guide tours through their very special home, proudly explaining the story behind the building.
But which aspect of the house is their favourite? Like any proud homeowner, Josette cannot commit to just one. “Every item relates a story; every item and every room are to be proud of. So, I cannot pinpoint one closer to my heart than others, be it of great value or of no value at all.”
Casa Bernard, 46 Triq San Pawl, Rabat, is open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm. casabernardmalta.com
Photos: Jonathan Borg. Josette and Georges Magri in Casa Bernard.
Photos: Alex
CASA GOURGION, MDINA
Just a few minutes’ walk away, within the fortifications of Mdina, is another historic house that has only recently been opened to the public for the first time in its 134year history.
Casa Gourgion stands out as a whimsical neo-Gothic folly amid its baroque neighbours – an architectural incongruity that brought its architect Andrea Vassallo much criticism, but has now been accepted as an iconic gem, adorning the square in front of the Mdina Cathedral.
Built in 1890 in the gardens of the adjacent Palazzo Gourgion, it was originally home to Giuseppe De Piro Gourgion, the sixth Baron of Budach. The noble Italian De Piro family, originally from Como, settled in Malta with the Knights of St John in 1530.
Today, Casa Gourgion is owned by the great-grandniece of the Baron, Marian Galea, who inherited it from her mother in 2016. As soon as the last tenants left the property in 2020, Marian kicked off major renovation works in the house.
The project soon became a family affair, with her son Alan and her son-in-law Andrea Vassallo Cesareo appointed as architects, and her other son-in-law, Christian Camilleri, engaged as the project manager. Marian’s daughter Jenny Vassallo Cesareo was the team coordinator and Marian herself, together with two school friends, Angie Manduca and Diane Borg, did the interiors. She also employed a researcher, Nicholas Galea Testaferrata, to assist with the history of the house and the family tree.
“My first inspiration came from the beautiful Casa Rocca Piccola in Valletta, the family home of my cousin Nicholas De Piro. He was very helpful in this project on many levels,” adds Marian.
While she spends most of her time in her residence in St Paul’s Bay, she is often at Casa Gourgion. “I enjoy my time in Mdina tremendously… The early mornings are the best part of the day, when it is really the ‘silent city’,” she enthuses.
But why open the house to the public? “We visited a similar house on the cathedral square of Havana and enjoyed the experience immensely. This inspired us to preserve our heritage for future generations by opening up Casa Gourgion as a house museum. It gives us pleasure to see both locals and tourists enjoying it and its contents,” Marian explains.
When she inherited the house, it was showing its age, and its delicately intricate façade, with its unique gargoyles, was in need of some serious TLC. “The first challenge for the architects was to research the history of the house and to renovate it to its original state. Another big challenge was working with a scheduled building, which meant we had to use a minimal-intervention approach, where all new services remained reversible for maximum preservation and retention of original building fabric.”
If you do pop over, you are quite likely to spot Marian sitting elegantly as ever in the courtyard, her favourite corner. “I enjoy spending many hours there, within the tranquillity of the high walls in the centre of the house, where I get to meet visitors of all nationalities.”
And if you fancy living like a noble person, Casa Gourgion has two rooms on the top floors available for rent. Room 1 is named after Rosa, the former maid of the Casa Gourgion estate, while Room 2 is the Baron’s suite, with its own private terrace overlooking the Cathedral piazza.
Casa Gourgion, 3 Pjazza San Pawl, Mdina, is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm. casagourgion.com
Marian Galea in Casa Gourgion.
BIR MULA, COSPICUA
Heritage homes are not just palazzos. Often, true history is written within the walls of ‘normal’ houses, and there is one such property in the heart of the Three Cities that encapsulates the story of the whole country under one roof.
When Dr John Vella and his mother Lucy went to view the house at No. 79 St Margaret Street, Cospicua, in 1996, they were simply looking for a larger space to accommodate John’s extensive book collection, which had outgrown the small apartment he and his mum resided in at the time. Little did they realise they had stumbled upon a snapshot of Malta’s history and how many secrets the house would reveal as restoration got under way.
John was a postman back then, and when his mother suggested they should check out this property, he thought she was “crazy”.
“All I used to see through the letter box was a dark entrance hall, a TV and a neon light,” he recalls. But after that first viewing, John immediately decided to buy the house. It was later that he would discover his mother had been less convinced and, in fact, she never ended up living in it.
John and his mother immediately set to work on clearing up debris that was blocking access to the cellar. It took them three weeks to reveal the first step leading downstairs, and by that time, they were beginning to have second thoughts about their new home, wondering if it would ever be habitable.
Photos: Jonathan Borg. John Vella in Bir Mula.
It took eight painstaking years of manual restoration to bring the house back to life – eight years that revealed the astonishing true age of the property. For starters, that ‘cellar’ turned out to be a farmhouse, which had been remodelled in the Arab era between 870 and 1091 AD.
Almost 30 years later, John, now a PhD graduate in Mediterranean Studies, specialising in grassroots museums, is still uncovering bits of history in a property that dates back to Paleolithic times and bears the marks of all the eras ever since.
“After I got married, I lived here for several months. We had enough space to convert the hall into a bedroom and kitchen. But when people visited the museum, we could only show them half the space as we were living here and my child was only two years old at the time, so it was tricky.”
Today, John lives about 50 metres up the road, but he spends most of his time at Bir Mula rather than at home.
“Owning a heritage house carries with it a lot of responsibility, not just for the objects or the house itself, but also for the community. A house like this can serve as a place where the community can find or strengthen its self-esteem,” he explains, adding that it is often used for exhibitions or lectures.
Always a history buff, John had dreamt of becoming an archaeologist long before the University of Malta offered the course. He always had the idea of running a small museum, but when he found No. 79, he was just looking for a residence.
Once the house started revealing its historic treasures, it was John’s mother who recognised the potential of the property and the opportunity for her son to realise his dream.
“Mum told me she didn’t look at the property ever becoming her house. She used to spend more time working here on the restoration and she read so much about its history that I was learning from her.”
Today, Bir Mula is an ethnographic and social history museum, representing all the eras that left their mark on the property over the centuries. But John always has his eyes open for any treasures. “The house is still revealing its secrets. It is sustaining the need to rewrite history.”
Bir Mula Heritage Museum, 79 Triq Santa Margerita, Cospicua, is open to visitors by appointment only. Contact John Vella on info@birmula.com or follow Bir Mula Heritage Museum on Facebook.
DISCOVER A WORLD OF ENDLESS SHOPPING OPPORTUNITIES
Words by Passaġġi
On the house!
Get into the holiday spirit and have a drink in a historic home. Be it a palazzo or a villa, these venues are fit for a night of fun of palatial proportions.
Home to some of the chicest bars, historic houses add a touch of class to Malta's nightlife scene. So, whether you are warming up with a classic hot toddy, enjoying your festive tipple, or sipping on a signature cocktail in style, raise a glass to the past as you party into the future.
Colourful cocktails in cool and calm
OKA’s At The Villa is located within an imposing seafront 19thcentury palazzo – what used to be the summer residence of one of Malta’s leading industrialists and one of the oldest buildings in the Balluta area.
Its name, OKA’s, was inspired by the famous oak trees overlooking Balluta Bay, which symbolise strength, wisdom and endurance –and you may need a shot of all these qualities on a big night out.
A destination brasserie, with intimate spaces to meet and eat, OKA’s At The Villa also boasts stunning views of Balluta Bay from its terraces, which can be enjoyed almost year-round thanks to the country’s mild climate.
In the warmer months, guests are invited to savour drinks and dinner on the terrace, where a relaxed bistro-style décor is further enhanced by a modern bar and a charming garden area with old oak trees, all framed by the villa’s elegant architecture. Its grand entrance greets guests with its original, graceful staircase.
As winter sets in, the ambiance shifts to a cosy indoor setting, once one of the main rooms of the house. Here, the atmosphere is warm and inviting, featuring comfortable chairs and benches in soothing teal and blue tones, complemented by playful, artistic wallpaper and vibrant paintings from local artists, creating the backdrop for an intimate experience.
The bar is equipped with the finest wines and spirits, and a range of colourful cocktails are prepared by a talented team, says restaurant manager Keith Farrugia.
Away from, but bordering, the hustle and bustle of St Julian’s, OKA’s offers a tranquil setting, he says.
“In the summer months, Fridays are spiced up with a live DJ set, getting people into the weekend spirit, but at the same time, allowing for a good conversation.
“In winter, OKA’s home-like indoor space gives off more of a relaxed, warm vibe, while keeping the concept of social gatherings alive,” Keith says, adding that the best days to visit are Fridays and Saturdays in the early evening.
The bars signature cocktails are inspired by the various outlets of The Xara Collection, which it forms part of. But if you have a hard time choosing, try OKA’s Last Word – a concoction of spiced rum, Fernet-Branca, Amaro Montenegro, Maraschino and lime juice.
OKA's At The Villa in Balluta.
An idyllic, storied setting
The bar at The Villa Bologna Restaurant exudes timeless Italian elegance, blending classic charm with a touch of sophistication. Think polished glassware, intimate corners and a warm, old-world appeal.
Its menu highlights “beloved cocktails and an exquisite selection of Italian wines”. In summer, frozen margaritas offer a refreshing twist, while winter serves up cosy favourites like warming mulled wine and classic hot toddies – “the perfect way to enjoy the season,” according to its owners.
Villa Bologna itself is a historic treasure, with its baroque architecture and enchanting gardens setting the stage for this bar’s story.
“We’ve crafted a space that honours the spirit of Attard and respects the heritage of Villa Bologna, allowing its tranquillity and beauty to inspire everything we do,” says Sophie Edwards, owner of the family-run trattoria, located within its gardens.
“The restaurant seamlessly integrates with its timeless surroundings, enhancing the villa’s legacy, while offering guests a charming dining experience.”
Outside, a shaded courtyard and pergola are nestled among lemon trees, creating a cool, calm and elegant, year-round retreat, while the inside works in harmony with the Villa Bologna Pottery workshop and outlet next door.
“Patrons are surrounded by the villa’s touches, from the plates on the walls to the tableware, to enjoy the full experience,” Sophie says.
The bar brings a “distinct flavour” to Malta’s nightlife scene, combining an authentic, relaxed atmosphere with the elegance of Villa Bologna’s historical charm. “This unique ambiance offers both locals and visitors a refreshing alternative to experience cocktails and dining in an idyllic, storied setting,” Sophie continues.
The bar is renowned for its expertly crafted negronis and a selection of classic cocktails, and it patrons are usually a vibrant mix, creating a lively atmosphere. Open seven days a week, serving aperitivo, drinks, lunch and dinner, Villa Bologna also welcomes couples drawn to the romantic garden for cocktails and dinner, and families looking for a relaxed, child-friendly setting during the day.
The Villa Bologna Restaurant in Attard.
For luxury and escape
Gracy’s Arts & Supper Club, situated in the heart of historic Valletta, lays claim to a pre-eminent private members club, with its restaurant and bars housed within a Grade 1 listed building, built for the Order of the Knights of St John.
The baroque Palazzo Verdelin, formerly known as the Civil Service Sports Club, underwent major restoration and refurbishment, with attention to detail across all four floors, offering “luxury and escape”.
Located in Archbishop Street, and overlooking St George’s Square and the Grand Master’s Palace, the 17th-century palatial building’s impressive interior comprises a triple-height atrium, with a groundfloor restaurant and whisky and karaoke bar in the vaults below, open to the public.
Tucked away in the cellars is the sound-proofed private karaoke room and a stylish late-night cocktail and whisky bar with DJ booth, where luxurious leather banquettes and handcrafted upholstery seamlessly integrate with intricately carved stone vaulted ceilings for an immersive experience.
In the upper echelons is the private members club, with the first-floor balustraded balcony leading onto the Piano Nobile bar, colonial snooker room – a nod to the building’s sporting heritage – ping-pong and cosy meeting spaces.
Intimate tables on the balcony double up as chess and backgammon. But if it’s not a board game you are after, check out the fin-de-siècle Long Bar and sumptuous furnishing of the spacious clubroom.
From its lavish powder rooms to its stunning rooftop bar and restaurant, with unrivalled views of Valletta’s historic skyline, and a huge internal glass window that allows diners to see into the kitchen, Gracy’s offers guests “a memorable home from home”, says its CEO Danny Drinkwater.
With Malta becoming the hot location ticket for Hollywood blockbusters, don’t be surprised to see some (very) famous faces popping in for a dry martini or a glass of Premier Cru champagne.
Winter sees the return of the long lunches and Friday Drinks. With Gracy's garden terrace having been the focal point during the summer, it has now made the move down to the baroque Grand Salon dining room and the sophisticated Piano Nobile on the members’ floor, where guests can socialise and enjoy signature cocktails and a selection of single malt whiskies and bespoke gins.
As winter seeps in and the festive season follows suit, warmer spirits, such as cognac and whisky, are excellent to use in its signature cocktails, such as Gracy's Manhattan, Danny suggests.
HERE’S HOW TO MAKE GRACY'S MANHATTAN: INGREDIENTS
50ml rye or Canadian whisky, infused with cinnamon stick; 20ml sweet red vermouth; dash Angostura bitters; a small squeeze of fresh mandarin juice for Christmas flavour.
PREPARATION
Stir over ice, strain into a chilled glass, garnish with a cherry, and serve straight up in a cocktail glass.
With so much lush countryside to explore, the choice of walks is impressive. Our recommended walks will guide you through the most scenic routes on the island, plying you with fun facts and vital information all the while.
Words by Passaġġi
RUSTIC, MEDITERRANEAN, FLAVOURFUL
Going to restaurants has its pleasures, but so does having someone cook for you in the comfort of your own home. Private chef Eunice Muscat finds eating in means having a great and stress-free home-made meal, more time to relax and a shared experience that brings people together – the ingredients for a successful culinary celebration.
THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED AND HOW IT TURNED OUT…
The first meal I prepared as a private chef was a minestra (vegetable soup) with xikel tal-majjal (pork shank) and fażola bajda (white butter beans). It went down very well as my boss and his wife enjoy traditional Maltese food.
YOUR ALL-TIME FAVOURITE INGREDIENT AND HOW YOU USE IT BEST…
Jerusalem artichoke. It’s very versatile and has a strong earthy and nutty taste, which goes well with any pasta, or can be used in a side dish mixed with vegetables. It also accompanies fish and meat well.
THE MEAL YOU MAKE TO WIN OVER YOUR DAUGHTER AND PARTNER…
I would say my winning meal is my deep pan pizza.
WHO COOKS AT HOME?
Most of the time, I do, although my daughter likes to cook a plate of pasta for us sometimes. My partner is a head chef, but he rarely cooks at home.
YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD...
Chicken or beef broth, kusksu (a traditional Maltese soup made with broad beans, peas and gigantic couscous) and imqarrun (baked pasta).
WHEN YOU EAT OUT, WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR?
Mostly Asian or Mediterranean cuisine, depending on the day.
OMAKASE OR À LA CARTE? Omakase.
FISH, OR MEAT, OR BOTH? Both!
WINE OR WATER?
Tequila and whisky!
DO YOU PASS ON DESSERT?
Although I do love it, I tend to pass on dessert after a meal.
WHAT WOULD YOU NEVER SAY NO TO (FOODWISE)? Fried chicken and fries.
THE IDEAL CUSTOMER PROFILE…
The ideal client for me is open to new ideas and gives me carte blanche to work and be expressive in my food, without any restrictions.
YOUR TRICK TO SATISFYING DIFFERENT PALATES WITHOUT A MENU OF OPTIONS…
My ‘trick’ is to focus on versatility and balance in each dish. I love creating meals that offer a blend of different flavours and textures. Elements like a touch of acidity, a hint of spice, a mix of fresh herbs, or a squeeze of citrus can elevate any dish.
THAT GO-TO MEAL THAT ALWAYS DOES THE JOB… I would say ftira biż-żejt (bread with oil and tomatoes).
“My love for food and knowledge started at home, with my mum cooking delicious traditional Maltese food.”
HOW DO YOU HANDLE COOKING IN SOMEONE ELSE'S KITCHEN?
It’s all about preparation and adaptability. I like to bring a few key tools I’m comfortable with, and quickly get familiar with the layout. Also, staying organised is a must, especially in a new kitchen.
WHY IS IT BETTER TO EAT AT HOME AND HAVE SOMEONE ELSE DO IT FOR YOU?
Eating at home, with someone else cooking for you, means you get a great and stress-free home-made meal, more time to relax and a shared experience that brings people together.
WHO WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO COOK FOR IN THE WORLD AND WHY?
I would say (actor) Johnny Depp. His favourite food is Mexican and fried chicken, which are both favourites of mine, so I would make him some sort of street-food dish incorporating those two, such as tacos.
BBQS, BRUNCH, PICNICS, TAPAS STYLE, TEATIME? WHAT TYPE OF MEAL TICKLES YOUR TASTE BUDS MOST? BBQs.
COMPLICATED HAUTE CUISINE, OR ALLA BUONA, HOME-COOKING?
Alla buona cooking.
DO YOU LICK THE SPOON?
It’s a must!
WHOM DID LEARN MOST FROM IN THE KITCHEN?
I started to gain more knowledge at Chez Philippe. This was my first job in a restaurant, where I worked for 13 years.
YOUR IDEA OF QUINTESSENTIALLY MALTESE FOOD… It has to be rabbit stew and snails.
YOUR OWN TAKE ON A MALTESE DISH…
I once made roasted local pigeon ramen, with mixed vegetables and ginger for an umami flavour, star anise and wakame, served with soba noodles.
YOUR BEST-KEPT CULINARY SECRET…
I can’t say it if it’s a secret.
WHAT DO YOU SAY TO SOMEONE WITH NO CONFIDENCE IN THE KITCHEN?
I would say get your hands dirty. Find a style you like and start with that. Always use local produce for the best quality; practice and never stop learning. Reading cookery books is also great for inspiration. Start simple, from the basics, but experimenting and expanding your style are key to becoming confident and growing as a chef.
WHERE WOULD YOU TRAVEL TO EAT?
Italy and Spain. Madrid is one of my favourite destinations for food, especially for tapas. Next on my bucket list are Japan and Argentina.
THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE THE MALTESE CULINARY SCENE… Rustic, Mediterranean, flavourful.
Photos:
Jonathan Borg.
Eunice Muscat.
Words by Eunice Muscat
How to make my Braised Local Rabbit in red wine, garlic, rosemary, pomegranate, chestnut and Jerusalem artichoke
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS
600ml red wine
150ml Ruby Port
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 1/4 tbsp sugar
1 medium whole rabbit cut into 8 pieces
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
16 cloves garlic, crushed
6 sprigs rosemary
250g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and roughly chopped
150g chestnuts, peeled and roasted (available from supermarkets ready cooked)
2 tbsp pomegranate molasses
150g fresh pomegranate to garnish at the end
METHOD
Heat oven to 200°C. In a bowl, whisk together wine, vinegar, port and sugar; set red wine mixture aside.
Season the rabbit with salt and pepper to taste. Put flour on a plate. Dredge the rabbit in flour; shake off excess.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook rabbit and Jerusalem artichoke, until browned on all sides, about 6 minutes per side.
Transfer the rabbit to a deep 9" x 13" baking dish. Add garlic to the skillet; cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown, 3-4 minutes. Pour wine mixture into skillet; boil and scrape up browned bits with a spoon; pour sauce over rabbit.
Scatter rosemary and chestnuts over the top. Cover with foil and transfer to oven; braise until tender, about 45 minutes. Uncover, raise heat to 250°C, and continue cooking, basting rabbit until sauce is thickened, about 25 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with baby roasted fennel potatoes and Maltese crusted bread.
Garnish the rabbit with fresh pomegranate!
Words by Adriana Bishop
Imbuljuta tal-Qastan
Fancy some soup this Christmas? Let’s make it chocolatey, of course. This traditional Maltese festive treat combines yummy chestnuts and indulgent cocoa with a hint of tangerine to kickstart your festivities on the right sweet note.
Oh baby, it’s cold outside! Well, as cold as Malta can be, which, if you’re coming from further up north on the Continent, is pretty balmy, I grant you. But anything below 20ºC is chilly for us islanders, and if the mercury hits single digits, our news feed declares a gelid apocalypse has descended upon us.
So, in the few months a year that we get to wear long sleeves, we reach for warming drinks and soups to beat the less-thansummery forecast. And being the gluttons we are, we’ve perfected the most comforting, indulgent, warming drink you can possibly imagine. And it’s nutritious too. No, really.
Let me introduce you to Imbuljuta tal-Qastan, a chestnut and cocoa concoction that is guaranteed to warm the cockles of your heart and put a smile on your face. The word imbuljuta is said to derive from the Italian word bollire, which means to boil. That is because the chestnuts, the key ingredient in this soup, are boiled in the water they would have soaked in for the previous 24 hours before a generous spoonful (or two, I mean it’s Christmas) of pure cocoa powder is added, along with some sugar and thinly sliced tangerine rind, and left to boil for almost an hour.
Yes, it takes a rather long time to prepare, but you’ve been waiting 365 days for Christmas, so what’s another hour or two for a special treat?
Imbuljuta is one of those traditions the origins of which no one seems to know, yet they cannot imagine life without. Chestnuts are not indigenous to Malta, so this is definitely one of those culinary imports that form part of the island’s rich tapestry of history, borrowing from kitchens in neighbouring
countries, adapting and adopting until we made it our very own. Chocolate has been a favourite tipple in Malta since the 17th century, imported via the Knights of St John.
We all have different stories of how our nanna used to prepare it for us to indulge in after Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve – the only night of the year when we absolutely must wear a coat if only to prove it really is winter. It was a sweet reward for staying up so late at night listening to a lengthy sermon in a draughty church and to stave off our impatience as we waited for the green light to tear open our presents.
In recent years, the Imbuljuta tradition has sadly diminished somewhat as many opt to feast on a hearty full-blown breakfast at 1am because Christmas lunch is still 12 hours away and we might starve before then.
One friend who was brought up in Australia said her Maltese mother insisted on preparing it every Christmas even though they celebrated on a sunny beach in 35ºC in Perth. Another remembered how their local church traditionally hosted its parishioners to a little Imbuljuta party after Midnight Mass.
It is also probably one of the most nutritious sweet treats you’re going to have this Christmas as chestnuts are low in fat and excellent sources of vitamins and minerals, especially vitamin C. Second helpings anyone?
Get ready to dive into a festive wonderland of holiday events, sparkling celebrations, and joyful activities that will make your stay truly unforgettable this Christmas season!
As you can imagine, when a recipe is handed down from one generation to the next and accepted as family folklore, the exact ingredients and quantities become a matter of taste. The very basic recipe calls for dried chestnuts, cocoa powder (not drinking chocolate powder), sugar and tangerine rind. But every nanna seems to have spiced it up with her own little twists. Some added cloves; others indulged in a more colourful array of spices, such as cinnamon and mixed spice depending on availability.
But the citrus element is nonnegotiable, although oranges are perfectly acceptable substitutes and even welcome additions to tangerines. Children drink it as it is, but the grownups might fortify it with anisette liqueur or whisky. And as for quantities, well, as nanna would say, “just the right amount”.
In the interest of research (and maybe because I simply couldn’t wait till Christmas), I chose one particularly
miserable night in November to prepare Imbuljuta, following the most traditional of recipes by Helen Caruana Galizia in her book The Food and Cookery of Malta and Gozo, which is considered a standard point of reference for all things culinary.
She does not specify the amount of water needed. I made a ‘small’ batch with just 250g of dried chestnuts, which I soaked in one litre of cold water the night before. When I started the cooking process the next day, I added another half a litre of water, but I realised too late that this was still too little for four greedy chocoholics.
When my 17-year-old son returned home starving after an hour at the gym, he was bowled over by the heady aroma of the chestnuts boiling in water and bounded straight into the kitchen like a starving bear to investigate. “Whatever that smell is, I’m having it for dinner,” he said as he lifted the saucepan lid for a closer sniff.
Do not rush the process. The Imbuljuta needs to be cooked long and slow as this improves the taste. I left the chestnuts whole but breaking them up slightly helps thicken the hot chocolate and makes it easier to drink/eat. This quantity can serve around eight people, depending on how generous the portions are, and the quantity of water used.
How to make it:
Chestnut and chocolate soup/drink
INGREDIENTS
400g-500g good-quality dried chestnuts
1 heaped tbsp cocoa powder
150g caster sugar
Large pieces of tangerine peel, cut into thin strips or finely chopped
METHOD
Wash the chestnuts and discard any faulty ones. Place in a large bowl and cover with water (calculate around 2-3 litres). Leave to soak overnight. The next day, remove any loose pieces of skin. Cook the chestnuts in the soaking water till tender. Add the other ingredients and continue to cook for about half an hour. It should be thickish in 50 minutes but may need longer. Adjust sugar or cocoa to taste. Serve hot in soup bowls.
Would you like to learn more about Imbuljuta? Join a Heritage Malta cookery class on 14th December at the Inquisitor’s Palace in Birgu to learn how to make it, as well as another Maltese teatime favourite, Qagħaq tal-Għasel (honey rings). heritagemalta.mt
Photo: Pierre Balzia
More flavours of Malta
Whet your appetite with a list of restaurants to tickle everyone’s taste buds. Here's some food for thought before you get booking.
OSTRICA
66, Church Street, St Paul’s Bay
Ostrica Restaurant, located on the picturesque coast of St Paul’s Bay, is renowned to be one of the best restaurants in the area for fresh fish and local flavours. Housed within the historic Gillieru Harbour Hotel, a beloved establishment since the 1960s, it offers stunning views of the bay and nearby islands. Otrica delivers an unforgettable culinary journey, blending tradition and innovation in a cosy, seaside atmosphere perfect for a memorable meal.
(+356) 7902 2371 ostrica ostrica
BOTTEGIN PALAZZO XARA
Triq San Pawl, Rabat
Bottegin Palazzo Xara is the perfect place to eat out. A band club and social spot, it offers an authentic local dining experience. The beautiful and inviting courtyard, coupled with outstanding cuisine, ensures a memorable dining experience. Customers on Tripadvisor and Google have raved about the restaurant’s cosy atmosphere and excellence in both food and service, describing it as “one of the best places to eat in Malta”. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to sample some of the finest local cuisine.
The Michelin-recommended Grotto Tavern restaurant offers a unique and unforgettable dining experience in the heart of Rabat. Nestled in a cave, the ambience is enchanting and romantic. Grotto Tavern’s chefs expertly craft tasting menus that showcase their passion for local and seasonal ingredients. Guests can sample innovative dishes by indulging in its five- or seven-course experience. A visit to Grotto Tavern is a must for those seeking fine dining with a twist.
St George’s Bay, St Julian’s Andrew's Bar is a freshly re-opened venue where fun is not optional, good food is compulsory, and building great memories is essential. Steeped in legacy, this is, in fact, Malta's oldest bar! The place is a go-to, and you're simply going to love indulging in the extensive menu, with a great local cuisine focus, serving traditional Maltese and modern dishes, such as pizza or pasta. Ideal for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it is also perfect for a quiet drink or two.
(+356) 2138 8031 info@andrewsbar.com
TA' KOLINA
151, Tower Road, Sliema
Ta’ Kolina is a quaint, family-run restaurant on Tower Road (one of Sliema’s most popular spots). Open since 1974, it is a typical Maltese restaurant with a traditional Maltese interior and décor. A set menu comprising of traditional Maltese food offers a choice of starter, main dish, dessert and coffee for €24 per person. There is also a vibrant à la carte menu and daily display of fresh local fish. Dining here is a true Maltese experience for a reasonable price. Ta' Kolina is open for both lunch and dinner from 12 to 10.30pm.
(+356) 2133 5106 www.takolina.mt
Words by Thomas Camilleri
Merry Shopping and Many Happy New Gifts!
Looking for stocking fillers with a local twist, or a Christmas-related souvenir that is both meaningful and authentic to take back home to family and friends? Here’s a gift guide of all things Made in Malta and a chance to meet their artistic and innovative creators.
Who? Aprille Zammit
Where? aprillezammit.com or 72 Triq Kent, Fgura (by appointment)
What? Aprille is an artist who channels her love for nature and the sea into her artwork. She creates hand-pulled screen printing in her studio. Her recent solo exhibition, Soak in the Sunlight, offers an edition of gradient prints that remind us to pause and appreciate what we always have access to. As an alternative to buying one of her prints, you can also enjoy one of her screen-printing workshops. Book ahead –they’re popular!
Who? Saz Mifsud
Where? sazmifsud.com or 1 St Patrick's Street, Valletta
What? For her latest collection, Cimelio, Saz ventured into Malta's ancient notarial archive, unearthing a trove of exquisite calligraphy, illuminated manuscripts, marbled paper and maritime maps from the 15th century, which she turned into delicate collages that celebrate the past. She digitally printed these collages onto fabric, creating her own form of silken heirloom. The result is a collection of intricately patterned scarves, handbags and clothing, designed to be cherished and passed down through generations. As the brand prepares for the holiday season, it is introducing new, exciting items to the collection, including luscious velvet jackets and versatile slip dresses, for those who want something dressy yet effortless.
Who? Birgu Blue
Where? birgublue.com or 66 Hilda Tabone Street, Birgu
What? Located bang in the heart of Birgu’s historical Collachio district, step into this atelier set inside an ancient building, where a whirlwind of creative projects is constantly under way. Here, you’ll meet Ozzy, the talented leather designer and artisan. His creations are unmistakable and wholly made in Malta, celebrating Maltese creativity and flair. Birgu Blue’s latest venture is BluePrint, and while leather remains their core passion, their deep-rooted sense of Maltese identity has inspired them to explore new horizons, this time through beautifully crafted poster illustrations, capturing the heart and soul of Birgu by acclaimed Maltese illustrator Nadine Noko.
Who? Soap Café Malta
Where? soapcafemalta.com or 65 Triq San Duminku, Sliema
What? Soap Café is a local artisan brand that crafts skincare products with a commitment to natural wellness and authentic Maltese ingredients. Founded in 2008 by beauty therapist and herbalist Charlene ‘Charly’ Mercieca, with her passion for natural remedies, Soap Café is the result of a personal journey towards effective, gentle skincare, using earth-friendly ingredients. The sustainable ethos is central here, with 95 per cent of her products being refillable, and all packaging recyclable, organic and cruelty-free.
Who? THISS Ceramics
Where? thiss.store or 3 St Chris, Abela Street, Rabat
What? Duo Sofia and Matt are both quirky themselves and in what they create. Their funky ceramics have proved to be a hit both locally and internationally, though they’ve only been on the scene for a few years. Their latest objects feature a variety of Christmas baubles in shapes you wouldn’t often find hanging on your tree – think cheese, bread and fish! Shop online or visit their new studio in Rabat.
Who? The Secret Rose
Where? thesecretrose.com
What? An embroidery artist for 15 years, Sarah Muscat Azzopardi launched The Secret Rose after discovering the art of embroidery as a literature student. This year, she launched Paradiso, a collection of stationery and homeware inspired by the rhythms of Mediterranean life. For Christmas, The Secret Rose launches a new collection of her popular hanging tree ornaments every year. Apart from customisable baubles, this Christmas will also bring an exclusive holiday collection of luxurious homeware products and embroidered notebooks. As ever, the pieces are inspired by Sarah’s love of architecture, fashion and literature, as well as her island home, and will feature some recognisable seasonal landmarks in Malta and Gozo.
Who? Stephanie Borg
Where? stephanieborg.com or 33 St Catherine Street, Rabat
What? Stephanie Borg's latest work continues to celebrate Maltese heritage through vibrant, culturally inspired designs. Her new limited-edition silk scarf captures Malta’s rich history with intricate patterns inspired by traditional Maltese doors, tiles and motifs, honouring the nation’s commemorative anniversaries. Other highlights include the ecofriendly Doors of Malta wooden greeting cards, handpainted baubles and fine bone china trinkets. Set within a charming traditional Maltese townhouse, her studio is always worth a visit.
Who? Ta’ Betta Wine Estate Where? tabetta.com or Taż-Żiri off Triq Blat il-Qamar, Girgenti l/o Siġġiewi
What? Located on four hectares of terraced land in Girgenti, Siġġiewi, Ta' Betta Wine Estate offers wine enthusiasts a unique experience. The estate features 15,000 vines, 200 olive trees and indigenous flora, with views of the medieval town of Mdina. Pop by for winetasting (by appointment) and sample their best wines, many named after the Grand Masters of the Knights Hospitaller like Jean Parisot de la Valette or Philippe Villiers.
Who? Luke Azzopardi Studio Where? lukeazzopardi.com or Goldfield House, 4 Triq Dun Karm, Birkirkara
What? Malta’s most exciting fashion house, Luke Azzopardi Studio’s recently opened atelier offers prêt-acouture, bespoke tailoring, silk and leather accessories, as well as fine jewellery. The ethos of Luke Azzopardi Studio is that of being a self-sustainable atelier, embracing conceptbased fashion and deconstruction. The nature of the brand’s work looks to fashion as an art object. Wearable products are presented as a result of investigations into art history, and studio events are designed as immersive cultural experiences.
Who? Rebecca Bonaci Where? rebeccabonaci.com
What? Tattoo artist extraordinaire, Rebecca doesn’t only draw on skin and we’re all so grateful for that. Besides a variety of prints and originals on her webshop, her latest work consists of a series of tattoo vase drawings that will be part of an exhibition titled Body & Vessel. This will be held at the Malta Society of Arts (worth visiting for the building alone) from 7th - 18th December.
Who? Lazarus Tiles Where? lazarustiles.com or
69 Triq San Lwiġi, Msida (by appointment)
What? Founded by actor and creative director Thomas Camilleri, Lazarus Tiles is a project that seeks to rescue and document traditional Maltese cement tiles that are due to be sent to the landfill. These beautiful creations, many hand-made over a century ago, are often discarded during rebuilds or renovations in favour of easier methods of flooring. Once salvaged, these tiles are restored and framed in steel, ready for a new, vertical life as an artwork.
Who? Island of Print
Where? maximiliansaliba.com or Eden, 64 Ta' Said Street, Nadur, Gozo (by appointment)
What? Maximilian Saliba founded Island of Print and is a designer and printmaker working from a studio in Nadur, Gozo. His latest series features Malta’s coastal watchtowers, inspired by their rich history. It highlights five still-standing Knights of St John towers across Gozo and Comino, featured at various stages of light after sunset, from dusk till night.
Who? Sue Mifsud Ceramics
Where? suemifsud.com or 48 S Rosa Street, Rabat (by appointment)
What? A ceramics designer and maker, who works full time from her Rabat studio, Sue creates colourful, hand-made, functional items on the potter's wheel from durable stoneware clay. Objects range from useful everyday items, such as espresso cups and spoon rests, to larger, more unique designs, including heavily textured centrepieces.
Who? il-lokal Where? il-lokal.com or 203 Old Bakery Street, Valletta
What? This perfectly curated shop is like all you’ve read about, but in one location. Founder Karolina Rostkowska brings together a huge variety of Maltesemade gifts and objects that provide a kaleidoscopic vision of the vibrant art scene in Malta.
Words by Hayley Bonnici
The Grand Tour of the Cavalier
Guided by the enigmatic is-Sur Kreattiv, uncover the hidden stories, architectural marvels and breathtaking views of St James Cavalier.
Perched atop Valletta’s highest point, St James Cavalier has stood as a silent sentinel for centuries, bearing witness to Malta’s vibrant history. Now home to Spazju Kreattiv, Malta’s National Centre for Creativity, this 16thcentury fortress opens its doors for a unique experience: The Grand Tour of the Cavalier.
Guided by the enigmatic is-Sur Kreattiv, the tour unveils hidden stories, architectural marvels, and breathtaking views.
Dressed in period-inspired attire, is-Sur Kreattiv is more than a guide – he’s a storyteller who weaves the cavalier’s history into an engaging narrative. Claiming to have seen it all, from the first stone laid by the Knights of St John to its restoration as part of the Millennium Project, his vibrant tales breathe life into the ancient walls.
As you explore the fortress, is-Sur Kreattiv highlights details often overlooked, from the strategic placement of fortifications to hidden carvings revealing the minds of the Order of St John.
His tales transport you to pivotal moments of courage, betrayal and intrigue, offering a new perspective on the cavalier’s history. Seamlessly stepping into the roles of knights,
soldiers and civilians, he immerses visitors into the daily lives of those who once inhabited these walls.
The tour also delves into the cavalier’s more recent history, particularly its role during World War II. Is-Sur Kreattiv recounts stories of resilience and sacrifice, revealing how the fortress transitioned from a defensive stronghold to a sanctuary for the Maltese people.
Beyond the main areas, the tour ventures into secluded chambers and passageways typically closed to the public. These hidden spaces provide a rare glimpse into the cavalier’s past, enriched by is-Sur Kreattiv’s vivid storytelling.
The journey culminates on the rooftop of St James Cavalier, where visitors are treated to a panoramic view of Valletta and the surrounding Mediterranean. As the sun sets, bathing the city’s fortifications in golden hues, it’s a moment to reflect on Malta’s rich heritage.
This isn’t your typical history tour. The Grand Tour of the Cavalier is an immersive experience that blends storytelling, hidden discoveries and unforgettable sights. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious, this tour offers a personal connection to Malta’s past and present. Secure your spot today and uncover the secrets of St James Cavalier.
For bookings, visit kreattivita.org
Is-Sur Kreattiv is more than just a guide.
Words by Isabel Collins
NEW YEAR’S DAY DIP
For many, the joy of swimming transcends the seasons. A winter swim in Malta is, after all, more than just a splash of bravery; it’s a revitalising connection with nature that lifts the spirit. Take the plunge on 1st January and try out this refreshing tradition.
As autumn turns to winter, Malta’s beaches continue to welcome locals and visitors alike, eager to soak in the mild Mediterranean sun and dip in the inviting waters. With sea temperatures lingering between 16°C and 24°C, the island remains a sought-after winter sun destination and entices travellers wishing to take a dip in the milder climate.
Malta’s shoreline, characterised by rocky coves, clay cliffs and sandy beaches, offers a serene escape during the last months of the year. As summer crowds dwindle, these beautiful spots become more tranquil, allowing for a peaceful swimming experience. By late October, many find the beaches surprisingly empty, providing a perfect setting for relaxation and reflection.
As Christmas approaches, the inclination to swim may decrease, yet those who cherish winter swimming remain undeterred. For many, the joy of swimming transcends the seasons. Personally, I find immense pleasure in snorkelling among the vibrant fish that inhabit the crystalclear waters surrounding our island’s shores. The experience is not just refreshing; it’s invigorating, akin to the thrill experienced by northern Europeans diving into ice holes during winter.
Winter swimming increases heart rate and blood flow to protect core organs, boosting heart health, immune function and mental resilience. It also eases joint pain, helps manage stress, builds confidence and brings social benefits and a sense of connection to nature.
Welcoming the New Year with a splash
One date on the calendar that I never cancel is the annual swim on New Year’s Day. Around 17 years ago, I was invited by a group of friends to join this delightful ritual, and over time, I’ve continued the tradition with my son. It’s a wonderful way to embrace the New Year.
Whether with a group of friends or solo, this is an inspiring way to ring in the year, and the memory of the fresh and clear sea will probably last longer than your list of New Year’s resolutions!
Others share my feelings, and the community of year-round swimmers is going strong. “I rarely wake up on 1st January ready for everything a New Year will bring. Generally, I feel a little... groggy. Doing that run and jump into the sea is one of the great things about living in Malta –preferably with a few friends and a hot chocolate after,” says Amanda Holmes from the UK, who enjoys her New Year’s Day dip.
“For me it's not about laps, lengths, or a long swim; it's about the freshness of the colder water giving a boost to body and mind.”
When choosing where to take a dip in January 2025, I recommend my all-time favourite spot on the island, which also attracts others with the same agenda – Golden Bay on the north coast. The feeling of the soft sand under your toes is a bonus, plus you can walk into the sea gently, which is kinder on your senses
A winter swim in Malta offers more than just a splash of bravery; it’s a revitalising connection with nature that lifts the spirit. The Mediterranean, calm and inviting, beckons you to take the plunge. So, grab your swimsuit, rally your friends, and dive into the refreshing sea – you might just find it becomes a habit to be proud of. suggests Swimming in the Mediterranean during winter can be a magical experience, but preparation is key to ensuring enjoyment:
> What to Wear: A wetsuit can provide warmth and buoyancy, making your swim more comfortable. If you prefer not to wear one, a swim cap and rash guard can help retain body heat.
> Warm-up Essentials: Prior to entering the water, warm up your body with light exercises on the beach. This helps you acclimatise to the cooler temperatures.
> Post-Swim Comfort: After your swim, have warm clothes and a hot drink ready to help you transition back to the cooler air comfortably.
> Swimming Precautions: Always be aware of your limits and swim with a buddy. Cold water can be a shock to the system, so listen to your body and exit if you feel too cold. For those new to winter swimming, remember to acclimatise gradually to colder water and always assess sea conditions beforehand. Avoid swimming if the sea is rough to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.
DLĦ is the National Trust of Malta, an NGO founded to safeguard the country's historic, artistic and natural heritage.
Words by Din l-Art Ħelwa
Photo: Maarten van Alkemade. Dwejra Tower.
On the lookout
It is not difficult to see why the Dwejra area is one of the most visited in Gozo. The 17th-century tower on its cliffs is one of the main reasons, apart from Fungus Rock, the Inland Sea and even the Azure Window that once was…
It is hard to choose between the many reasons to visit Dwejra Tower. Apart from the spectacular location of the historic building itself along the rugged Gozitan cliffs, there is the association with the rock at the entrance to the bay, another episode dating back to World War II, and of course, the best story of all: what is missing!
The tower is one of a series built around the coast by Grand Master Lascaris and this restored heritage site has a fascinating backstory. It was completed in 1652 to keep a lookout for any Ottoman fleets in the vicinity, as was the case for the other towers and fortifications built across the centuries.
At 12 square metres, it is much smaller than it looks from the outside since the walls are 3.5 metres thick. Fairly simple in layout, its ground floor (currently used for educational videos and talks) has an arched roof, while the first floor – which is where the external staircase leads to – was used as the main living area for the three guards stationed there. This room has a well head and two niches, as well as a place for a kitchen with a vent above it.
Although many towers have since lost their staircases and use a door to the ground floor, Dwejra Tower is an opportunity to see the original layout, including a small room on the roof, originally a gunpowder store. The tower would have been armed with three six-pounder guns, as well as swivel guns, muskets and bayonets.
It is worth noting that, in spite of its presence, or perhaps because of it, there was never any significant attack on Gozo involving this tower.
The coastline offers another clue into the presence of the tower at this precise spot. Guarding the entrance to the nearby bay, Il-Ġebla tal-Ġeneral (the General’s Rock) hosts a parasitic plant (Cynomorium coccineum) that was thought to have special medicinal powers, curing any type of disease.
The Knights of the Order of St John mistakenly thought it was a fungus, which is why it is known as Fungus Rock. The parasite was highly sought after, even by European royalty, and in the mid-18th century, the sides of the rock were smoothened, allowing access to a wooden box that
ran along two ropes. You can still see the remains of the mechanism at the base of the mainland.
The British took over the tower when they ruled Malta in the 1800s, with the focus more on deterring smuggling and to enforce quarantine regulations. After a few decades, it was handed over to the Royal Malta Fencible Regiment, who kept it till 1873, and during the World Wars, it was used as an observation post.
It was an incident during World War II that the tower commemorates in the roof room: a Royal Air Force pilot, New Zealander Flight Sergeant Percy ‘Bill’ Stratford, crashed into Dwejra Bay in March 1943 and was rescued by Capt. Frank Debono and Carmelo Zahra, who were on duty at the tower. He recovered fully, but the heavily damaged Spitfire was pushed over the cliff edge into the sea shortly after.
Parts of the plane were recovered from the seabed in the mid-1970s, and restoration work began in the UK. The fully restored plane made its first flight in May 2016 and appeared in the 2017 film Dunkirk. The Spitfire is now based in the US.
And last, but not least, the area is famous for what is missing: the Azure Window, an impressive rock arch, formed by wind and waves, which collapsed in 2017. The arch featured in numerous photographs and postcards, not to mention social media posts. Since it fell into the sea, the area is – if anything – even more famous, with visitors coming to gaze in wonder at the fact that such a huge feature could have collapsed without trace.
Of course, there is still the Inland Sea nearby, where the water has carved its way through the cliff inland, creating a lagoon encircled by colourful boathouses. All in all, it is, therefore, not difficult to see why this area is one of the most visited in Gozo!
Din l-Art Ħelwa, the National Trust of Malta, embarked on the tower’s restoration in August 1997, saving it from collapse, thanks to the sponsorship of Galdes and Mamo Ltd as part of their 50th-anniversary celebrations. It was granted guardianship in 2003, and years later, the tower underwent a second thorough restoration thanks to European funds obtained from the Malta Tourism Authority. It reopened to the public in 2023.
Words by Vanessa Macdonald
Vanessa is a former journalist who knows there is still so much more to discover about her country.
More than just a spree
Whether it’s a traditional Christmas market in a village, amid the hustle and bustle of the capital city, selling locally made crafts, or sustainable, eco-friendly items, you’ll certainly find that special stall this festive season.
Did you know that Christmas markets trace their roots back to 13th-century Vienna? In 1296, Duke Albrecht I had allowed two-week fairs to be held in the Austrian capital in the month of December – although they were not related to Christmas. But it was these fairs that eventually became the Christmas markets now celebrated around the world.
Over the centuries, the idea of having a Christmas-themed fair spread from the German-speaking world around Europe, reflecting the traditions that became associated with the holiday, from mulled wine to Christmas trees.
Ask anyone to close their eyes and conjure up an image of Christmas and it is almost always going to have twinkling lights reflecting off the snow, mittened hands keeping warm clutching a hot chocolate, and myriad decorations in every home.
Add to this the centuries-old practice of giving gifts at Christmas (originally on St Nicholas Day) and you can understand why Christmas markets tap into the nostalgia that we all feel around this most important feast.
Malta may not have the icy blasts and snow to create a winter wonderland, but this has not stopped the island from developing its own traditions, dating back to the times of the Order of the Knights of St John in the 16th century.
Since then, the concept has evolved, with markets now cropping up across the islands. Although each one is an opportunity to discover delightful villages, there are some aspects that deserve to be highlighted.
There is no doubt that visitors will be spoiled for choice at the capital city, Valletta. Apart from a traditional market being organised by the Valletta local council on 7th and 8th
December, wooden stalls are also set up along the Floriana Mall through the Malta Tourism Authority. The area around the picturesque Triton Fountain is hosting various activities, many of them aimed at families.
Within the capital, the Valletta Cultural Agency has put together a full programme of small-scale performances – including flash mobs – scattered around the streets throughout December, adding atmosphere for the families that have turned shopping into an annual outing. The events include a rock event in Strait Street on 19th December, and the religious aspect is highlighted by a procession with a statue of the Baby Jesus on the next day.
One important aspect of Christmas markets is the quality of the products on offer, and for 13 years, Malta Artisan Markets has ensured that only locally made crafts are sold. Founder Lisa Grech said this year’s event, being hosted at the sublime Palazzo Parisio on 15th December from 10am till 6pm, will see over 80 booths offering their wares.
“We are very careful to screen applicants to make sure they offer authentic and quality products. It is so satisfying to see how many of those budding artists have since gone on to become well-established names with their own studios,” she says.
“We get so many applications – and the number of visitors just keeps growing!”
Apart from ensuring that standards are maintained, Malta Artisan Markets also makes sure that the range of goods is spread across a wide spectrum, from art and ceramics to jewellery and textiles. However, Lisa is proudest of the artisans who persevere through the onslaught of bureaucracy to produce local foods.
“We are now seeing collaborations, such as a jam maker working with a chocolate maker to come up with new products. That was my original dream – a food market – and this is definitely an area that I want to work on in the future,” Lisa adds.
The markets are not only about local produce, but also an opportunity to promote sustainability. The Woodland Christmas Market, for example, being held at Ta’ Qali National Park from 11th to 15th December, is set in an open space, surrounded by trees, and has a range of events for the family. It is being organised by Eco Markets Malta, whose founder Zen D’Amato Gautam worked with the park administration to come up with an event that celebrates the ecological side.
“There is no plastic in either the products or the packaging, and some of our crafts are made by people totally off the grid! We look at the environmental footprint of what is being sold, as well as the entire supply chain. Around half the food products are plant-based, and we also run activities like yoga sessions for children and upcycling workshops,” Zen says.
An exciting project is aimed at children – the average age is 10 – who are encouraged to sell goods they have made throughout the year, from crochet to jewellery, to carefully curated secondhand items like books, toys and costumes.
“It is an important opportunity as they do not only learn about selling, but also about all that goes into being an entrepreneur,” she continues.
“We started Eco Markets Malta in 2019 with just a dozen or so booths. This year we have 80 and draw in around 800 small businesses!”
While in Malta, whether you opt for a traditional Christmas market in a village, the hustle and bustle of the capital city, locally made crafts or sustainable eco-friendly ones, you will certainly add a special dimension to your visit – even if there is not a snowflake in sight!
“There is no plastic in either the products or the packaging, and some of our crafts are made by people totally off the grid! We look at the environmental footprint of what is being sold, as well as the entire supply chain."
Last
year's Christmas market at Palazzo Parisio.
Words by Charlene Vella
Charlene is Associate Professor in the Department of Art and Art History at the University of Malta and curator.
Art reflects the hearth
From traditional decorations to candle-lit feasts, these paintings radiate the warmth and intimacy of Maltese interiors, offering a uniquely local take on the holiday festivities. Read this review for insight into how Christmastime at home is reflected in art.
Maltese interiors and the spirit and warmth of its festive season are celebrated in a joint exhibition of paintings by artists Kenneth Zammit Tabona and Mariam De Giorgio that “bring the colours of our homes to life”.
The works, exhibited throughout December in Home is Where the Heart Is, at The Phoenicia Malta hotel just outside Valletta, are filled with details that evoke nostalgia and familiarity, capture a slice of local heritage and promise to be heart-warming this holiday season.
Through their series of recently executed paintings in watercolour and acrylic, the artists invite visitors into intimate, charming scenes of Maltese life.
As both an artist and cultural advocate, Kenneth has contributed to Malta’s artistic landscape, using his craft to celebrate the island’s traditions. Known for his expressive
watercolours that capture the essence of Mediterranean culture with finesse and vibrancy, his latest works bring a graceful sensitivity to Maltese interiors, reflecting his dedication to portraying local customs and spaces.
Kenneth’s work often showcases his passion for Maltese heritage, seen in his detailed renderings of local architecture, interiors and landscapes that embody a quintessential charm.
His watercolour palette leans towards delicate, translucent hues that capture the intimacy of Maltese interiors, but it can also be much more intense: bright reds are used to accentuate details such as traditional Maltese tiles, ornate furniture and still-life elements.
Lending a delicate fluidity to his renderings, his watercolours enhance the authenticity of wellloved Maltese interiors, adorned with intricate still lifes and
Paintings by Kenneth Zammit Tabona.
chinoiserie, as well as two black and white cats frolicking around the spaces.
Kenneth’s style balances detail with a looser approach that allows light and shadow to play across the spaces, imbuing them with an inviting atmosphere of timeless beauty.
Equally vibrant are the works of Mariam, who excels in acrylic painting and illustration, bringing her distinctive style to life with a bold use of colour and elaborate detailing. Her art often explores themes close to Maltese identity, depicting scenes filled with traditional décor, familiar household elements and lively gatherings.
Mariam’s palette brings the colours of the Maltese home to life with striking clarity. Her style is more contemporary, with bold brushstrokes laden with paint. But her paintings not only showcase her technical skill; they also evoke a sense of belonging and tradition.
The artist captures the heart of each scene through expressive colour contrasts and dynamic lines, creating a sense of
movement and energy. Her works exude a lively warmth, reinterpreting traditional Maltese interiors with a modern perspective and inviting viewers to celebrate familiar spaces in a fresh and spirited light.
Mariam’s paintings are all based on her recent experiences with friends and loved ones and revolve around her close-knit family, portraying a jovial yet intimate Christmas Eve dinner. They radiate the warmth and intimacy of Maltese interiors, blending nostalgic motifs with a fresh, contemporary approach.
Cherished banquets and lively gatherings feature in her acrylics, with a characteristic boldness that gives life to cosy courtyards, joyful scenes of children and the conviviality of family life around the dinner table.
These holiday-themed pieces evoke the season’s spirit. From traditional decorations to candle-lit feasts, they offer a uniquely Maltese take on the festivities, weaving and spreading Christmas cheer into the exhibition.
Photo: Michaele Zammit. Mariam De Giorgio, Kenneth Zammit Tabona and Charlene Vella.
Paintings by Mariam De Giorgio.
KM Malta Airlines announces a single-type fleet
KM Malta Airlines has proudly completed its strategic transition to a single-type fleet of eight Airbus A320neo aircraft with an average age of just 2.5 years.
This milestone marks the culmination of the airline’s fleet renewal and modernisation journey, which began in March 2024 with a mix of Airbus A320neo and A320ceo models.
The phased approach allowed KM Malta Airlines to maintain broad route coverage across Europe and the Mediterranean while advancing towards a more efficient and environmentally sustainable fleet.
In October 2024, KM Malta Airlines took delivery of its eight A320neo aircraft, achieving its goal of a fully A320neo fleet. The airline's commitment to a modern and eco-efficient fleet reflects its dedication to operational excellence, enhanced passenger experience, and environmental responsibility. The A320neo model, equipped with advanced engines and improved aerodynamics, offers better fuel efficiency, reduced emissions, and
Promoting Passaġġi
Last month, our marketing team launched a creative, out-of-the-box, social-first campaign to introduce the debut issue of Passaġġi. The goal was clear: to spark curiosity, generate interest, and showcase the added value of a carefully curated in-flight magazine for a destination airline.
With its modern format and digestible content, Passaġġi offers passengers a fresh and engaging way to stay informed. The campaign followed the same approach – capturing attention with short, shareable content that resonates with our online audience, while highlighting how the magazine serves as a vibrant guide to the Maltese Islands and beyond. It was designed to
quieter cabins.Operating solely with the A320neo brings several strategic advantages:
> Cost Savings: Standardising the fleet reduces maintenance and operational costs by streamlining parts inventory, technical training, and scheduling.
> Optimised Fleet Utilisation: The A320neo’s versatility enables efficient allocation across various routes, maximising fleet use and cost efficiency.
> Environmental Commitment: The A320neo, powered by the CFMI LEAP engine, is one of the quietest cabins in its class.
> Enhanced Operational Technology: KM Malta Airlines’ A320neo fleet integrates the latest safety and efficiency technologies, including paperless cockpit operations and advanced navigation systems designed for the future.
> Flexible Range and Capacity: The A320neo’s extended range of up to seven hours allows KM Malta Airlines to effectively serve short and medium-haul destinations.
KM Malta Airlines remains committed to a modern, efficient, and environmentally responsible fleet.
draw our online community into the world of Passaġġi.
“It’s fantastic to see how our team’s creativity and fresh ideas have resonated with our audience,” said Head of Marketing Rebecca Millo. “Passaġġi offers real value to our passengers. It’s much more than just in-flight entertainment; it’s a valuable keepsake that can be taken home to continue discovering Malta and beyond. It’s our way of offering something extra –an invitation to rediscover the island long after the flight has ended.”
People and Culture Activities
This October, our employees participated in a Healthy Minds talk with Richmond Foundation – Malta, focusing on mental well-being to empower and support both individual and collective mental health. Organised by the KM Malta Airlines People and Culture team, this initiative offered valuable insights to our employees, benefiting them personally while contributing to a more supportive workplace culture.
The People and Culture team also celebrated Pink October and Movember by sharing treats and encouraging employees to wear Pink October and Movember pins throughout the month. It was delightful to see so many participants joining in and supporting these important causes. All proceeds gathered have been donated to charity.
“Our organisation is proud to promote opportunities for all our employees that encompass awareness about the importance of well-being and a healthy workplace,” said Robert Fenech, Chief of People and Culture.
“The company is committed to spearheading more initiatives of Social Corporate Responsibility. We are pleased to enhance our employee experience and are delighted by the positive outcome.”
A special thanks goes to our KM Malta Airlines People and Culture team for spearheading these initiatives.
The Engineering Team
Last month, our engineers spoke to the Television Malta journalists when the TVM crew visited the KM Malta Airlines hangar and observed one of the hundreds of procedures performed on the aircraft fleet. In this case, it was related to the replacement of fuel nozzles, a small part that ensures the engine operates efficiently and safely.
Leslie Caruana, Safety and Compliance Department Head, spoke about the work of the Engineering Department and about the critical procedures it undertakes.
"There are several checks throughout the maintenance process. When an engineer completes a task, the corresponding paperwork is reviewed to ensure that each task is certified. This is known as CRS – Certificate Release to Service. An aircraft cannot be released for flight without confirming that all necessary work has been completed and verified,” he said.
Engineer Caruana emphasised that the opportunities in this field are extensive for any person considering training in aviation engineering.
“This is not just a job; it's a career. And you can start from an apprenticeship," he continued, highlighting that from routine maintenance to emergency repairs, the primary mission of aircraft engineers is to ensure the safety of passengers and crew during travel.
Introducing KM Rewards – the KM Malta Airlines’ loyalty programme –designed to reward its community on purchases made through the website by earning and spending SkyBux, gaining Status Points and moving through Tiers.
WHAT ARE SkyBux?
SkyBux is the official currency of KM Rewards. You can earn and redeem SkyBux when purchasing flight tickets through the website. They will be automatically earned once the ticket is used.
WHAT ARE STATUS POINTS?
Apart from earning SkyBux to spend, our loyalty programme also allows you to gain Status Points, which will determine the current and future tier membership level.
You have 12 months to earn enough Status Points to maintain your tier, upgrade, or downgrade to another tier. This qualification period starts when you join KM Rewards or earn a new tier.
WHAT ARE TIER LEVELS?
You will begin your journey as a Member and progress through the tiers, from Traveller to Explorer, where the benefits get better. But the ultimate destination? Pioneer status – where you enjoy exclusive rewards and privileges.
DOWNLOAD THE KM REWARDS APP
Dive into your own personalised KM Rewards dashboard, packed with everything you need to know: your Membership number, your SkyBux balance, Tier level, and Status Points earned.
Dalma Festival 2024
Amelie Lens, I Hate Models, DVS1 & Ben Sims, Paula Temple B2B SNTS & BLK among the headliners.
Rising from the enigmatic depths once more, Dalma Festival returns for a second edition on 6th and 7th December for a pulsating techno odyssey on the island of Malta. After last year’s much-talked-about debut, excitement levels for this year's event are running high.
Featuring a blend of living legends, future stars and innovators, this year's line-up is an unmissable techno celebration, meticulously crafted by the Glitch Festival team. Rest assured, attendees from all over the world are in for a memorable journey. With two stages on
offer, each promises a mind-bending, immersive, visual experience for those who dare to delve into the abyss of Dalma.
The second edition of Dalma Festival will take place at the Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre (MFCC), located in Ta' Qali. Don't miss out!
Visit dalmafestival.com to purchase your ticket or for more information.
Amsterdam (AMS) : Berlin (BER) : Brussels (BRU) : Catania (CTA) :
Düsseldorf (DUS) : London (LHR) : London (LGW) : Lyon (LYS) : Madrid (MAD) : Milan (LNT) : Munich (MUC) : Paris (CDG) : Paris (ORY) : Prague (PRG) : Rome (FCO) : Vienna (VIE) : Zurich (ZRH) : 3hr25 2h55 3h05 0h45 2h55 3h40 3h20 2h25 3h00 2h00 2h30 3h00 2h55 2h30 1h35 2h20 2h25
KM MALTA AIRLINES DIRECT FLIGHTS
Paris – Orly
Madrid
Düsseldorf
Catania
Munich
Berlin
Vienna
Prague
Milan – Linate
Zurich
Paris – Charles de Gaulle
Lyon
London – Heathrow
London – Gatwick
Rome – Fuminicio
Brussels
Amsterdam
Malta
FLIGHT AND COMPANY INFORMATION
INFORMAZZJONI DWAR
IT-TITJIRA U L-KUMPANIJA
Welcome on board
KM Malta Airlines
We’re excited to have you with us and want to ensure you have a comfortable and enjoyable flight. Here are a few important tips to keep everything smooth and safe for everyone.
OUR MAIN AIRPORT HUB
Merħba abbord
il-KM Malta Airlines
Aħna ħerqanin li inti tkun magħna, u rridu nkunu żguri li jkollok titjira komda u pjaċevoli. Hawnhekk issib ftit pariri importanti biex jinżamm kollox pinna u sigur għal kulħadd.
IĊ-ĊENTRU EWLIENI TAL-AJRUPORT TAGĦNA
Malta International Airport (MLA), the main hub for KM Malta Airlines, first opened in 1958 as Luqa Airport and has since grown into a modern, world-class facility. Playing a crucial role in connecting the island to hundreds of destinations, MLA supports KM Malta Airlines’ extensive network of flights. Guided by core values, the airport ensures a seamless travel experience for all passengers. By working sustainably and collaboratively with its partners, MLA continues to enhance Malta's connectivity and deliver exceptional service to travellers worldwide.
L-Ajruport Internazzjonali ta’ Malta (MLA), iċ-ċentru ewlieni għall-KM Malta Airlines, fetaħ għall-ewwel darba fl-1958 u minn dakinhar kiber f’faċilità moderna u ta’ klassi dinjija. Bi rwol kruċjali biex jgħaqqad ’il gżiritna ma’ mijiet ta’ destinazzjonijiet, l-MLA jappoġġja x-xibka estensiva tat-titjiriet tal-KM Malta Airlines. Iggwidat minn valuri tal-qalba, l-ajruport jiżgura esperjenza ta’ vjaġġ trankwill għall-passiġġieri kollha. Permezz tal-ħidma sostenibbli u kollaborattiva mal-imsieħba tiegħu, l-MLA jissokta jsaħħaħ l-konnettività ta’ Malta u jagħti servizz eċċezzjonali lill-vjaġġaturi mad-dinja kollha.
OUR FLEET
IL-FLOTTA TAGĦNA
AIRBUS 320NEO
QUANTITY: 8 IN FLEET
NUMBER OF SEATS: 180
ENGINES: CFM LEAP-1A
MAXIMUM TAKE OFF WEIGHT: 73.5 / 77 METRIC TONS
OVERALL LENGTH: 37.57M
WINGSPAN: 35.8M
CRUISING SPEED: MACH 0.78 (450KNOTS, 833KM/HR)
RANGE: 6,500KM, 3,500 NMI, 4,025 SMI
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 1.8 LITRES PER 100KM PER PASSENGER*
* Based on a 1,000NM (1,860KM) journey with 180 pax and bags.
A quick heads-up! Inħejjuk bil-quddiem!
SEATBELT SAFETY
Your seatbelt is here for your protection! Please fasten it whenever the seatbelt sign is on or while the aircraft is moving. For your safety, we recommend keeping it fastened throughout the flight. If you’re travelling with a child under two, they’ll need to be secured on your lap with an infant seatbelt, which our crew will be happy to provide.
ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION
Only alcohol served by our crew is allowed on board, and it’s only for passengers aged 17 and over. Remember, alcohol can have a stronger effect at high altitudes, so please enjoy responsibly. In line with international regulations, we may prevent intoxicated passengers from boarding or continuing their journey.
PHOTOGRAPHY ETIQUETTE
We want everyone to feel comfortable, so please respect your fellow passengers and crew. Please do not take photos or videos on board without their verbal permission.
NO SMOKING ZONE
For the safety and comfort of everyone, smoking –including e-cigarettes – is strictly prohibited at any time when on board the aircraft. If you see anyone smoking, let our crew know immediately.
IS-SIGURTÀ TAĊ-ĊINTURIN
Iċ-ċinturin tiegħek qiegħed għall-protezzjoni tiegħek! Jekk jogħġbok aqflu kull meta s-sinjal taċ-ċinturin ikun mixgħul jew sakemm ikun miexi l-ajruplan. Għas-sigurtà tiegħek, aħna nirrakkomandaw li żżommu maqful matul it-titjira kollha. Jekk qed tivvjaġġa bl-ulied taħt is-sentejn, dawn għandhom jinżammu fuq ħoġrok b’ċinturin għat-trabi li l-ekwipaġġ ikun kuntent li jagħtik.
IL-KONSUM TAL-ALKOĦOL
Abbord huwa permessibbli biss l-alkoħol servut mill-ekwipaġġ tagħna, u dan qiegħed biss għallpassiġġieri li għandhom 17-il sena jew iktar. Ftakar, f’altitudnijiet għolja l-alkoħol jista’ jkollu effetti aqwa, għalhekk, jekk jogħġbok, ħu gost b’mod responsabbli. Skont ir-regolamenti internazzjonali, nistgħu nipprevjenu lill-passiġġieri fis-sakra milli jitilgħu abbord jew milli jissuktaw bil-vjaġġ tagħhom.
L-ETIKETT TAL-FOTOGRAFIJA
Irridu li kulħadd iħossu komdu, għalhekk, jekk jogħġbok, irrispetta lill-passiġġieri ta’ miegħek u lillekwipaġġ. Jekk jogħġbok tiħux ritratti jew filmati abbord mingħajr il-permess verbali tagħhom.
POST LI FIH MA TPEJJIPX
Għas-sigurtà u l-kumdità ta’ kulħadd, it-tipjip –inklużi s-sigaretti elettroniċi – huwa pprojbit f’kull waqt abbord l-ajruplan. Jekk tara lil xi ħadd ipejjep, għarraf lill-ekwipaġġ tagħna minnufih.
USING PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES (PEDs)
L-UŻU TAT-TAGĦMIR
ELETTRONIKU PORTABBLI (PEDs)
PEDs IN FLIGHT MODE
Any devices that can send or receive data by wireless means, such as smartphones, tablets and e-readers must be switched to flight mode before departure and can be used throughout the flight. If data transmission capability cannot be switched off while the device is operating, the device itself must be switched off completely for the duration of the flight. Bluetooth connectivity can be used during all phases of flight.
LARGER DEVICES (LAPTOPS, LARGE TABLETS)
These should be turned off and stowed away during taxi, take-off and landing, but you’re free to use them during the cruise.
Wi-Fi
The use of Wi-Fi with flight mode enabled is allowed on aircraft which are equipped with an in-flight entertainment system. Follow any crew instructions regarding connectivity.
USE OF HEADPHONES
Headphones may be used during all phases of flight, however we ask you to remove them during the safety briefing. Customers sitting in an emergency exit row must refrain from using headphones during taxi, take-off and landing.
DAMAGED OR OVERHEATING DEVICES
If any device is damaged, starts to overheat or produces smoke, is lost or falls into the seat structure, please notify our crew immediately. Do not try to retrieve it yourself if it falls between seats; we’ll take care of it. Carriage of damaged, defective or recalled lithium batteries or devices is prohibited on board our flights.
We kindly ask that all passengers follow these guidelines for the safety and comfort of everyone on board. Have a fantastic flight with KM Malta Airlines!
IL-PEDs FUQ IL-MODALITÀ TAT-TITJIRA
Kwalunkwe tagħmir elettroniku li jista’ jibgħat jew jirċievi d-data mingħajr il-ħtieġa ta’ wajer, bħall-ismartphones, it-tablets u l-e-readers għandhom jinqalbu għall-modalità tat-titjira qabel it-tluq, u hekk jistgħu jintużaw matul ittitjira kollha. Jekk il-funzjoni tat-trasmissjoni tad-data ma tistax tintefa waqt li t-tagħmir elettroniku jkun mixgħul, it-tagħmir innifsu għandu jintefa għalkollox tul it-titjira kollha. Il-konnettività tal-Bluetooth tista’ tintuża tul il-fażijiet kollha tat-titjira.
IT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU TA’ DAQS IKBAR (LAPTOPS, TABLETS KBAR)
Dawn għandhom jintfew u jintrefgħu matul is-sewqan, it-tlugħ u l-inżul, iżda tista’ tużahom b’mod liberu tul il-kruċiera.
IL-Wi-Fi
L-użu tal-Wi-Fi bil-modalità tat-titjira mixgħula huwa permessibbli fuq l-ajruplani mgħammra bis-sistema taddivertiment ta’ matul it-titjira. Segwi kull istruzzjoni talekwipaġġ rigward il-konnettività.
L-UŻU TAL-HEADPHONES
Il-headphones jistgħu jintużaw tul il-fażijiet kollha tat-titjira, madankollu nitolbuk tneħħihom waqt l-ispjegazzjoni tas-sigurtà. Il-klijenti bilqiegħda f’xi filliera tal-ħruġ tal-emerġenza m’għandhomx jużaw ilheadphones matul is-sewqan, it-tlugħ u l-inżul.
IT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU BIL-ĦSARA JEW LI JKUN
SAĦAN IŻŻEJJED
Jekk xi tagħmir elettroniku jkollu l-ħsara, jibda jisħon jew idaħħan, jintilef jew jaqa’ fl-istruttura tal-pultruna, jekk jogħġbok għarraf lill-ekwipaġġ tagħna minnufih. Tippruvax issibu inti jekk jaqa’ bejn il-pultruni; nieħdu ħsiebu aħna. Il-ġarr ta’ batteriji tal-litju jew tagħmir elettroniku bil-ħsara, difettuż jew wieħed li ntalab jinġabar lura huwa pprojbit abbord it-titjiriet tagħna.
Ġentilment nitolbu li l-passiġġieri kollha jsegwu dawn il-linji gwida għas-sigurtà u l-kumdità ta’ kulħadd abbord. Nixtiqulek titjira fantastika mal-KM Malta Airlines!
Pre-order your favourite meal before your next KM Malta Airlines flight and have it delivered straight to your seat. or visit kmmaltairlines.com/inflight-catering
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