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BEARS WITH PERSONALITIES VISIT THE ENCHANTED WORLD OF

CHARLIE BEARS THE BEARHOUSE GALLERY - C O R N WA L L Charlie Bears is an international collectable teddy bear company based in Launceston, Cornwall. The Bearhouse Gallery is a beary special place where all the family can step into the enchanted world of Charlie Bears. It is designed to be a multi-sensory space for everyone to enjoy, not just collectors of Charlie Bears. The gallery has evolved from Charlie’s original design room, which she has developed in to a magical gallery space to enchant and delight visitors. You can easily spend a few hours in the gallery and our bear cubs are always on hand if you have any questions about any of the collections or individual bears. There are lots of surprises along the way and there is a dedicated Charlie Bears store on-site too. Visit www.charliebears.com to find out more and read about our upcoming events at The Bearhouse. We often have bear-themed events during the school holidays including bear hunts, teddy bears picnics and more and these are always bear-illiant fun for all the family to enjoy. We hope to see you beary soon!

Charlie Bears Ltd The Bearhouse | Pipers Close | Pennygillam Ind. Estate | Launceston | Cornwall PL15 7PJ Tel 01566 777 092 Email headbear@charliebears.com www.charliebears.com


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CONTENTS

48 hours

Our weekend favourites in this beautiful region... Page 30

Ten reasons

The reasons we love to visit Cornwall... Page 12

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CONTENTS Welcome...................................................................................... 09 Cornwall is a region like no other!

History all around.......................................................................10 From English Heritage castles to World Heritage mining sites, Cornwall’s history is emblazoned across its diverse landscapes.

Ten reasons to love this region............................................... 12 There are dozens of reasons to love it here – check out a few of our favourites.

Like to shop? You’ll love it here.............................................. 14 Fill your basket with artisan goods inspired by the coastal lifestyle.

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ADOBESTOCK; ANNIE SPRATT/UNSPLASH; MATTHEW JESSOP/VISIT CORNWALL; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

A region at the heart of art....................................................... 24 Immerse yourself in a county that’s crammed with art and culture from the coast to the countryside.

If you’re only here for 48 hours.............................................. 30 You can pack a lot into a couple of days – try this itinerary to make the most of it.

Let’s go there.............................................................................. 34 Whatever the time of year, and whatever the weather, there’s always plenty to do here.

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COME ON OVER AND SEE WHAT’S BEEN BREWING AT THE HOME OF CORNWALL’S FAVOURITE BEERS & PUBS RK I PA FR

St Austell Brewery Co. Ltd., 63 Trevarthian Rd, St Austell, Cornwall PL25 4BY

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For more information please contact: 01726 66022 or www.staustellbrewery.co.uk

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ST AUSTELL BREWERY - ONLY A 5 MINUTE WALK FROM THE TRAIN STATION

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CONTENTS

Property

Finding your dream home couldn’t be easier in Cornwall... Page 70

Nightlife

From cocktails to craft beers, this place has it all... Page 58

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Let’s explore................................................................................ 48 Although you’ll never run out of things to do here, it’s also a great base for exploring the surrounding region.

Our sporting life......................................................................... 50 An immense and sporting playground, Cornwall boasts diverse terrain to try all sorts of activities from surfing to cycling.

A taste of the south west – and the world........................... 52

©VISITBRITAIN/BEN SELWAY; ADOBESTOCK; DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY/RICK STEIN PORTHLEVEN; ING IMAGE; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; VISITENGLAND/EDEN PROJECT

Whether you tuck into seafood flipped from rod to pan or ice cream churned from cow to cone, seaside living has never tasted better.

Welcome to the night............................................................... 58 From its swanky cocktail bars to full-throttle festivals, Cornwall knows how to throw an après beach party.

Ten things you must do........................................................... 62 There are loads of things to do here – make sure you don’t miss these.

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Getting here and getting around............................................ 64 Getting to, and around, this region couldn’t be easier.

We’re open for business........................................................... 68 Cornwall is a county which increasingly works for everyone.

If you’re planning to stay longer............................................ 70 The allure of Cornwall will have you begging for more – which is why more people are relocating and buying second homes here.

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FUN FOR ALL THE FAMILY at Retallack Resort Surf the FlowRider You can surf the perfect wave every day of the year on Cornwall’s only FlowRider. Our instructors will have you standing up in no time and riding the waves like a pro. Riders must be 107cm tall. £25pp or exclusive hire from £150. Open all year.

Aqua Park Jump, splash, bounce and slide your way around our ‘total wipeout’ style inflatables. It’s brilliant fun for all the family! Minimum age 6, Under 11s must be accompanied by an adult. £15pp. Open April - October.

Wake Park Give wakeboarding a try at one of Cornwall’s only Wake Parks! Suitable for beginners or pros and supported by our expert instructors. £20pp for 15 mins. Open April - October.

Stand-up Paddleboards For a change of pace why not glide over the lake on our Stand-up Paddleboards, ideal for all ages! £10pp. Open April - October.

Water Zorbs For something a bit different, walk on water in our tandem Water Zorbs! £8pp. Open April - October. Enjoy 20% off when you quote code FUN20 All activities are available for day-visitors and Resort guests. To book call 01637 882587 or email activities@retallackresort.co.uk W W W . R E T A L L A C K R E S O R T. C O . U K Retallack Resort & Spa | Winnards Perch | St Columb Major | Cornwall | TR9 6DE


WELCOME

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race yourself for beach life, beguiling landscapes, gastronomic delights and world-famous cultural hotspots. Cornwall has shaken off its chintzy, bucketand-spade reputation and replaced it with stylish coastal living. Beyond Caribbean-white sands await Michelin-starred eateries, World Heritage landscapes, beautiful biking trails and a smorgasbord of water sports. So, don a wetsuit and hit the surf, lace up your walking boots to trace the rise and fall of the coast path, or soak up gob-smacking scenery from a swanky seaside bar. No longer reliant on the weather to flaunt its charm, Cornwall boasts an array of attractions for all seasons: Marvel at mega stars like the Eden Project, fall in love with picturesque fishing villages and get under the skin of the Cornish culture through art, literature and legend. l

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“NO LONGER RELIANT ON THE WEATHER TO FLAUNT ITS CHARM, CORNWALL BOASTS AN ARRAY OF ATTRACTIONS FOR ALL SEASONS”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


HISTORY & HERITAGE

HISTORY ALL AROUND! From English Heritage castles to World Heritage mining sites, Cornwall’s history is emblazoned across its diverse landscapes


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long with the Isles of Scilly, West Cornwall is thought to be home to the highest density of prehistoric sites in the UK, and you don’t have to tramp far off the beaten track to come across quoits, standing stones and ancient villages. Stroll inland from Lamorna Cove to the Neolithic stone circle of the Merry Maidens, or strike out across wild moorland above Mounts Bay to discover the remains of Chysauster Ancient Village – one of the finest examples of an Iron Age settlement in the country. One of the most dramatic landmarks spanning Cornwall’s history is Tintagel Castle. It’s long been a crowd puller for its reputation as the place of King Arthur’s magical conception, yet once you cross the footbridge to the sea-lashed ruins you will soon discover that, in fact, this was a prosperous Dark Age settlement and trading port, after which the Earl of Cornwall built his 13th-century fortress here. Whether or not you believe Arthurian legend, nothing can detract from the mystique of the ruins and the eerie Merlin’s Cave hewn through the neck of the island on which they stand. Another English Heritage site that brings history to life is Pendennis Castle, built by Henry VIII to protect the anchorage of the Carrick Roads and the world’s third deepest natural harbour. Perched atop Pendennis Point, this mighty gun fortress was one of the last royalist strongholds to fall in the Civil War. Step inside and discover interactive exhibits, or stand in the bastions to clap eyes on breathtaking sea views and the smaller St Mawes Castle, standing guard on the other side of the River Fal. When Pendennis Castle was built in the 16th century, Falmouth was little more than a fishing village. However, its strategic location and the development of the deep-water harbour led to the town’s transformation into one of the most important packet ship ports in the UK. Visit the National Maritime Museum to delve into the town’s rich seafaring history, and discover more about the booming maritime scene that still underpins every aspect of Falmouth’s cultural identity. From the tall ships moored in Charlestown’s historic harbour to the shipwrecks littering the treacherous rocks off the Lizard Peninsula and Land’s End, Cornwall’s connection to sailing and

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smuggling is evident in every nook and cranny of its corrugated coastline. Walk from Sennen to Land’s End and you can still see the rusty hull of the RMS Mülheim that foundered here in 2003. Discover fascinating artefacts from over 150 foundered ships at the Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre, where you can also learn about the tin, copper and china clay mining history that has given much of Cornwall’s landscape World Heritage status. Paddle past the china clay docks and learn all about the china clay industry on a kayaking expedition with Encounter Cornwall, or witness the iconic cliff-top engine houses on a coastal walk from Chapel Porth to St Agnes. In West Penwith you can discover the remains of a

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once-thriving mining community, witness the sea-lashed engine house at Botallack mine and don a miner’s hat to go underground at Geevor Mine. The National Trust is now at the helm of many historical estates county-wide, such as Lanhydrock’s grand Victorian manor house with its 17th-century gallery, and the Elizabethan Trerice near Newquay, where you can play Kayles (Cornish skittles) and Slapcock (the original badminton). The most famous location to tee up legend and history is the enchanting fortress of St Michael’s Mount, an important pilgrimage destination where a 12th-century church was built by the Benedictine community of Mont St Michel in France. l

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REASONS TO LOVE THIS REGION!

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10 REASONS

[01] CHIC FISHING VILLAGES

ADOBESTOCK; DAN BRECKWOLDT/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; VISITENGLAND/ALEX HARE/EDEN PROJECT/JAMESKERR.CO.UK

When Cornwall’s fishing fleets declined in the 19th century a new wave of holidaymakers made a beeline for Cornwall’s picturesque fishing villages. Now the likes of St Ives, St Mawes and Mousehole have been transformed into stylish seaside destinations that still retain a hint of the traditional fishing villages they once were.

[02] BEACH LIFE While Cornwall isn’t all about beach life and bucket-and-spade days, its 300-plus beaches are still its biggest draw. From surf-lashed sands to secret coves, the county is home to some of the finest beaches in the UK – in fact, St Ives Bay is ranked one of the best in the world.

with music events where you can dance with your feet in the sand. Watch the sunset over the sea and get down to international headliner acts at the Electric Beach Festival, Tunes in the Dunes, the Lusty Glaze Sundowner Sessions and the epic Boardmasters Festival.

[03] GASTRONOMIC BOUNTY Whether you’re into fine dining or foraging, Cornwall is a gastronomes hotspot where talented chefs serve up lip-smacking ingredients grown, reared and plucked from the coast and countryside. Staples include ice cream made from Jersey cows grazing by the ocean, and seafood so fresh it goes straight from rod to pan.

[06] POLDARK Tune into the BBC series Poldark and you’ll be as swept away by the staggering coastal scenery as you will be by the fate of the characters. From the smugglers’ coves to the cliff-top mining landscapes and wild moorland, Poldark has brought the beauty of Cornwall to our TV screens.

[04] MARITIME HERITAGE Who can resist the mystique of smugglers, shipwrecks and seafaring legends? Uncover the county’s maritime past at big-name attractions such as the National Maritime Museum Cornwall and at the Lizard Lighthouse Heritage Centre, seek out smugglers’ caves and shipwrecks, or clap eyes on smuggling artefacts at the Jamaica Inn museum. [05] BEACH PARTIES From rock bands on the beach to full-throttle festivals, Cornwall’s calendar is jam-packed

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[07] WATER SPORTS Beach life isn’t all about surfing – in fact mastering the art of wave riding isn’t as easy as it looks. If you want a fast-track ocean adventure try hand-planing (body-surfing with a mini surfboard strapped to your hand), stand-up paddleboarding or coasteering (swimming, scrambling and cliff jumping your way around the coastline). [08] SUB-TROPICAL GARDENS Aside from the mega-star Eden Project, Cornwall is home to an abundance of garden wonderlands thriving with sub-tropical species

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“FROM SURF-LASHED SANDS TO SECRET COVES, THE COUNTY IS HOME TO SOME OF THE FINEST BEACHES IN THE UK – IN FACT, ST IVES BAY IS RANKED ONE OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD”

gathered by the globetrotting plant hunters of the 19th century. Picnic in carpets of bluebells, tunnel through bamboo jungles, take shelter under giant gunnera or play hide-and-seek in magical woodland. [09] THE LITERARY LANDSCAPE As well as Cornwall’s best-loved author, Daphne du Maurier, countless writers have penned the county’s natural beauty into their tomes. Dylan Thomas dubbed Mousehole ‘the prettiest village in England’; Thomas Hardy fell in love with his first wife in Boscastle; DH Lawrence took up residence in Zennor; Kenneth Grahame took inspiration from the River Fowey, and Virginia Woolf immortalised Godrevy lighthouse. [10] MARINE LIFE From seals and seabirds to sharks and sunfish, Cornwall’s waters are teeming with an incredible array of marine life. Search for starfish and spider crabs on rock-pooling rambles, go snorkelling or surfing with playful seals and dolphins, or watch gannets and terns dive beneath the waves to catch fish. l

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


SHOPPING

LIKE TO SHOP? YOU’LL LOVE IT HERE! Fill your basket with artisan goods inspired by the coastal lifestyle

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If you’re seeking locally-inspired treasures to bring back memories of your holiday, the streets of St Ives are laced with surf shacks, art galleries, independent book stores and gift shops, all just a pebble’s throw from the sea. One of the most unusual shops in town is Kudos, on Fore Street, a tardis crammed with eclectic artefacts and alternative souvenirs – think rope balls, anchors and Amethyst cathedrals alongside antique furniture, flying pigs and musical instruments. If you want to unearth oneoff artisan gems and meet their makers, head to the Sloop Craft Market or Back Road Artworks, where you can get your hands on the likes of stained glass, driftwood sculptures and beach-inspired jewellery. For prints and souvenirs by some of Cornwall’s greatest artists and writers, take a spin around the gift shop at the new Tate St Ives – and while you’re there head up to the roof terrace and take in the views that have inspired artists for centuries. While many visitors stick to the honey pot of St Ives in search of arty purchases, nearby Penzance has its fair share of creative caverns where you can find a piece of Cornwall to take home. p16

hopping in Cornwall is nothing like going shopping in the rest of the country. Forget massive malls and towns stacked with high street names; here shopping is a more leisurely activity, focussed around local craft markets, unique boutiques and independent labels. Whether you’re browsing in a clothing store or a Christmas market, you’ll find that many of the goods on sale are made by local artisans and inspired by the coastal lifestyle. If you love to shop, earmark a day to hit Cornwall’s only city: Truro. Here you’ll find everything from vintage fashion and funky shoe shops to food emporiums and festive pop ups lining cobbled streets in the shadow of the cathedral. Dip into Lemon Street Market for upcycled gifts, organic bread and hand-made jewellery, and follow your nose to the farmers’ market that takes over Lemon Quay every Wednesday and Saturday. If you love stylish interiors, stop in at the Uneeka home and lifestyle market, and if you love dressing up and glam nights out you might spend hours rifling through the racks at Enjoy Clothing.

“IF YOU’RE SEEKING LOCALLY-INSPIRED TREASURES, THE STREETS OF ST IVES ARE LACED WITH SURF SHACKS, ART GALLERIES, INDEPENDENT BOOK STORES AND GIFT SHOPS, ALL JUST A PEBBLE’S THROW FROM THE SEA”

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ADOBESTOCK; MATTHEW JESSOP/VISIT CORNWALL

SHOPPING

In this Bohemian market town you can stroll along the Victorian promenade, take a dip in the Art Deco lido and enjoy a shopping spree in contemporary and classic arty haunts. For vinyl LPs, ‘kitchenalia’ and vintage clothing, check out the quirky Steckfensters on Chapel Street, and for contemporary art, jewellery and sculptures make a beeline for the Lighthouse Gallery. If you’ve got a penchant for design accessories head to Space, where you can find everything from designer lampshades to vintage tea sets, or, if you prefer a mix of high street names and local gems, head for the Wharfside Shopping Centre. Neighbouring Marazion is also well-endowed with galleries and gift shops footsteps from the beach. Browse artwork by some of Cornwall’s greats, including Terry Frost and Kurt Jackson, at Out of the Blue Gallery, or discover a collection of contemporary paintings, jewellery, textiles and ceramics by local artists at Avalon Art. Soak up the gob-smacking scenery of St Michael’s Mount and Mount’s Bay as you make your way around the coastline to Mousehole, where there’s a cluster of galleries around the harbour. Stop in at The Ark and you can meet a local pewter craftsman who hand-makes jewellery and ornaments out of this silver-grey alloy that contains Cornish tin. Within easy reach of St Ives and Mounts Bay, Hayle

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

“HERE YOU CAN MEET A LOCAL PEWTER CRAFTSMAN WHO HAND-MAKES JEWELLERY AND ORNAMENTS OUT OF THIS SILVER-GREY ALLOY THAT CONTAINS CORNISH TIN”

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is getting a reputation as a shopping haven – and not just because of the popular West Cornwall Shopping Park brandishing the likes of M&S, Boots and Next. Bypass the big brands and head into the town proper, where you’ll discover all sorts of independent shops along the foreshore of this estuary town that was one of the world’s most important mining ports during the Industrial Revolution. Glam up with unique fashion items in Dune Boutique, deck yourself out with the latest eco-friendly surfing gear in Down the Line, and discover a thriving community of independent makers, designers and artists in the historic Pratt’s Market where you can find everything from a yarn shop to vintage furniture. Another historic market town with a buzzing shopping scene, this time straddling the River Camel, is Wadebridge. A short distance along the Camel Trail from Padstow it’s little surprise to find an abundance of foodie shops in town – from traditional butchers to artisan bakeries. However, it’s also the array of music shops, fashion boutiques and quirky gift shops interspersed with divine cafés and wine bars that makes shopping here such a joy. For timeless home-wares and lifestyle products take a visit to Coastal Spaces or Rural Urban, and complete your beach-inspired interior with accessories from the Cornwall Rug Company. p19

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visit our galleries in st ives, padstow, fowey, tintagel & launceston

20% off Morwenna Range* when you enter ‘DC20’ at checkout or photograph this advert and present in galleries *Offer runs until end of December 2018

beautiful fused glass interior pieces, handmade at our cornwall studio. bespoke design service available. www.jodowns.com


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contemporary jewellery

Working in gold, silver and a variety of precious gem stones, Mirri Damer’s jewellery is clearly inspired by the Cornish coastline that surrounds her. Mirri’s designs, which are hand-made in her Falmouth shop, are celebrated and coverted for their timeless style and low key luxury look. www.mirridamer.com 01326 619817 8 High Street, Falmouth TR11 2AB

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“ANY SURFER WANNABES WOULD BE FOOLISH TO BYPASS THE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE OF NEWQUAY – HOME TO ONE OF THE LARGEST COLLECTIONS OF SURF SHOPS IN EUROPE”

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Whether you cycle from Wadebridge, hop on the ferry from Rock or park and ride the bus into town, Padstow is possibly one of the most picturesque pit stops for shoppers who want to take home a piece of the chic coastal lifestyle. Stroll along the quayside to peruse Dreya Wharry’s stained-glass seascapes at The Picture House, or get your hands on limited edition prints, unusual ceramics and bespoke patchwork furniture at Quay Art. Rick Stein’s interest in the town doesn’t stop at food; his ex-wife is also at the helm of a wonderful gift shop stacked with jewellery, ceramics and stylish homeware inspired by her travels. And, if you’re in Cornwall on a winter break, the Padstow Christmas Market brings together the best of the county’s food, drink and gifts in one of the most vibrant and bustling events on Cornwall’s festive calendar. Cruise west along the Atlantic Highway and pull over to discover an array of art, food, furniture and trendy interior accessories at the county’s coolest up-and-coming shopping hub, Hawkesfield. Encapsulating the shopping ethos of Cornwall in a single location, here you can don ethical outdoor clothing from Finisterre, stock up on coastalinspired vintage interior accessories from the Goose Shed, deck your pad out with vibrant art rooted in

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nature from Circle Contemporary, and toast your shopping experience with a world-class vintage from Bin Two wine shop. Any surfer wannabes would be foolish to bypass the shopping experience of Newquay – home to one of the largest collections of surf shops in Europe. After one lap of the town you can be dressed up and dapper in the latest surf fashion, or ready to hit the waves with a wetsuit and board. Or, you can simply do a one-stop shop at the Fistral Surf Complex, where there’s a line-up of surfside shops including Ann’s Cottage, Fat Face, Quiksilver and Animal. Style queens should head out of town to Porth Beach, where the ultra-trendy Roo’s Beach boutique is styled on the Cornish coastal life and crammed with designer clothes and accessories for beach babes. Carry on to Mawgan Porth and you’ll find a creative little community huddled by the beach. Original coastal-themed woodwork and crafts can be found in KaranDave studios, where a duo of local artists create laser-cut, hand-painted art inspired by the local environment. Just opposite is the unusual Disco Beads, where you can hand-make your own jewellery using eye-catching beads that glow in the light. However, it’s Married to the Sea that really sews up the vibe of this seaside community p21

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

MATTHEW JESSOP/VISIT CORNWALL; MICHAEL OLSEN/UNSPLASH

SHOPPING


Brewery tours and t

, must book in advance.)

* ** *Number 1 Cask Ale in the UK in volume and value, CGA on trade, MAT to 2 December 2017. **Number 1 Premium bottled ale in the UK in volume and value sales, Nielsen Scantrack, MAT to 30 December 2017.


SHOPPING

in its fashionable beachwear that’s made for every season. If you’re looking for bargain surf togs, scour the racks of Ann’s Cottage discount warehouse nearby in St Columb, where all the off-casts and previous season’s surf gear gets sold off at a snip of its original price. An unlikely, yet rewarding, destination for shoppers is the village of St Agnes, enveloped by some of Cornwall’s World Heritage mining territory. Perched on the cliffs, on the site of the historic Wheal Kitty mine, is the Finisterre workshop – the perfect place to kit yourself out for blustery coast path walks and saltwater adventures. Conceived by a group of cold-water surfers, this award-winning clothing brand produces functional, fashionable and ethically-sourced clothing made for life in the Great Outdoors. Wind your way down into the heart of the village to buy unusual handcrafted gifts, including ceramics and metalwork from Churchtown Arts, and Cornish charm beads, hand-made pendants and hand-blown glass art from the Little Feathers Gallery. In the Jo Polack Studio and Gallery you can watch the textile artist at work creating her felt art, eco sculptures, shimmering mackerel shoals and stitch maps of local towns and villages.

“HERE YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON POTTERY AND PAINTINGS THAT ECHO THE COASTLINE, AS WELL AS HAND-MADE CERAMICS AND AWARD-WINNING PHOTOGRAPHY”

ADAM GIBBARD/VISIT CORNWALL; ADOBESTOCK

If you’re looking for arty souvenirs, there are some unique spaces that bring together the best of Cornish art under one roof. Port Isaac Pottery is a family venture within the walls of a restored Methodist chapel, where you can get your hands on pottery and paintings that echo the coastline, as well as handmade ceramics and award-winning photography. Polperro’s Ebenezer Gallery is a 19th-century chapel housing a huge range of multi-media artwork by members of the East Cornwall Society of Artists. Far out west, on the edge of Sennen Cove, you can dive into the quirky Roundhouse and Capstan Gallery, the flagship location for West of Eden Fine Art and a showcase for local art and crafts inspired by the surrounding scenery. Some of the best places to discover a range of art and unusual gifts are Cornwall’s garden centres. Not just somewhere to pick up your potting compost, you can spend a day browsing, shopping and dining at these sub-tropical spaces. Trevisker Garden Centre, near Padstow, is an emporium of plants p22

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and gifts, as is the Carnon Downs Garden Centre. If you’re at Heligan, the Eden Project, Trebah, or one of the National Trust gardens spanning Cornwall, you’ll find that the gift shops for green-fingered folk harbour some of the best take-home goodies the county has to offer. If you’ve got a penchant for possessions steeped in art, literature and maritime style, the destination to flash your cash is Falmouth. Get here by boat from Truro, or park and ride from Penryn; however you travel, once here you will find one of Cornwall’s most creative and diverse shopping hubs. The famous Beside The Wave gallery is crammed with the work of some of the county’s most established contemporary artists – in fact, the art here has become so sought after that a second gallery space has been opened in London. If words are your passion, you can get captivating literature signed by local authors at the traditional Falmouth Bookseller, or browse wall-to-wall books over a beer at the quirky Beerwolf Books. For an assortment of maritime gifts, from model sailing boats and beach-inspired jewellery to a coastal cookbook or cuddly crabs, you can’t find a better selection than that at the National Maritime Museum Gift Shop. While most visitors head to picturesque Porthleven to take snaps of the much-photographed

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

“IN THIS CLUSTER OF INDEPENDENT SHOPS AND WATERSIDE BOUTIQUES YOU’LL FIND ALL SORTS OF COASTAL-INSPIRED GIFTS FROM HANDMADE JEWELLERY AND LITERARY TREASURES TO GLASSWARE AND BEACH FASHION”

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clock tower or to surf one of the UK’s best reef breaks, this pint-sized harbour town is also something of a secret shopping hotspot. Watch the waves from the harbour wall then step into Waves Surf Art Gallery to clap eyes on images that capture the power, beauty and hues of the ocean. Take home colourful Cornish beach scenes in the form of prints, coasters and placemats from Albatross Art, or, if you like rustic home accessories and hand-crafted gifts, you’ll find everything from driftwood mirrors to striking sea-life wall art at the Stargazey emporium. The Slipway Studio Gallery and Craft Workshop is packed with photography, prints, books and gifts, most of which is produced by a talented hub of local artists and makers. Famous for its chic maritime style, the bustling harbour-side town of Fowey is another fine place to fill your shopping bags. In the cluster of independent shops and waterside boutiques you’ll find all sorts of coastal-inspired gifts from hand-made jewellery and literary treasures to glassware and beach fashion. Dip into the Toe in the Water Gallery for a range of creations by local artists and makers – from hand-made jewellery and fused glass to original prints and paintings. Take a trip out to The Gribbin Gallery on Porthkerris Beach, and browse modern seascapes and glasswork

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ADOBESTOCK; CHARLIE BEARS LTD; FOTOLIA; SOUTH CROFTY COLLECTION

SHOPPING

Stein’s deli is the one-stop shop for delicious local produce and coastal giftware, from Cornish crab sandwiches and local ales to cookbooks and funky platters to serve your seafood on. A short hop up the coast, and close to Port Isaac, is the Trevathan Farm Shop in St Endellion, where you can also stock up on delectable local fare from fresh veg and local preserves to fudge, free-range eggs and Cornish wines. St Ives is hot on the heels of Padstow’s foodie reputation, and here you’ll also find shops piled high with gourmet delights. Pack your picnic hamper with artisan bread, crumbly cheeses and cured meats from The Allotment Deli or The Digey Food Room. Or roll up on a Thursday for a smorgasbord of artisan produce on sale at Gulp – the St Ives Farmers’ Market. Just out of town in Connor Downs is Trevaskis Farm, where you can fill your basket with piles of local goodies from fish and dairy produce to farm-reared meats, just-picked veg and pick-your-own summer fruits. If you think you’ll get peckish on your shopping road trip, Falmouth’s Courtyard Deli and the Cornish Smokehouse in Grampound Road go one step further than providing delectable Cornish produce – they will even pack you a bespoke hamper or lunchbox that you can tuck into on the road. l

on display in the quirky setting of a 17th-century pilchard store. Follow the river inland from Fowey and you’ll eventually reach the small town of Lostwithiel, an ancient stannary town that has become the antiques capital of Cornwall. The pretty 12th-century streets are packed with antique and gift shops, including the eccentric Black Dog Antiques and Interiors emporium housed in Duchy Palace – one of Cornwall’s oldest buildings. Now that Cornwall has a reputation for being one of the UK’s foodie destinations, any shopping trip here is bound to include some tasty treats to take home. If you love chocolate and art, follow your taste buds to The Chocolate Factory and Craft Centre near Mullion (on the Lizard Peninsula), where you can see chocolatiers making mouth-watering morsels, dip into an Aladdin’s cave of gifts and jewellery, sample skincare products made with Cornish honey, discover local artwork and meet the llamas. With Padstow being the town that put the county on the gastronomes’ map, it’s little wonder that the Padstow Farm Shop boasts one of Cornwall’s most impressive arrays of lip-smacking local produce, including fresh pasta made on site and Cornish durum flour that’s favoured by the chefs at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall. In town,

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


ARTS & CULTURE

A REGION AT THE HEART OF ART! Immerse yourself in a county that’s crammed with art and culture from the coast to the countryside


ANNIE SPRATT/UNSPLASH; GREGG BLUNDELL/ VISIT CORNWALL; MATTHEW TYAS/LEACH POTTERY

H

istorically a stronghold for artists, Cornwall is a destination that’s steeped in creativity and culture. Watch captivating theatre productions in sub-tropical settings, capture the seascapes on camera or canvas, or cruise around the stunning scenery that’s been the backdrop of countless books, films and TV series. The most obvious destination to get to the heart of the art scene is St Ives, where you can witness an array of artwork in world-class galleries, or get hands-on with painting, pottery or poetry workshops. Artists have flocked to the town since the 1930s, when they took over the net lofts deserted by fishermen when the pilchard reserves dried up. Inspired by the magical light, wild landscapes and bohemian lifestyle, the likes of Barbara Hepworth, Bernard Leach, Terry Frost and Peter Lanyon laid their roots here. “I have gained very great inspiration from Cornish land- and sea-scape, the horizontal line of the sea and the quality of light and colour”, said Hepworth in 1946. Testimony to the town’s immense art legacy is a littering of galleries including the Tate St Ives, the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, and the Leach Pottery. The Tate St Ives re-opened in 2017 after a huge expansion project, and is now home to a permanent exhibition of some of the region’s greatest 20th-century artists, alongside seasonal displays of contemporary art from around the globe. Not only can you view local landscapes via the exhibitions or from the rooftop garden, you can also take a family art adventure or join an artist-led workshop to create your own souvenir of the scenery. While you’re in town don’t limit yourself to the big-name galleries – there are dozens of lesser known galleries and studios to seek out, such as Back Road Artworks in the Downalong area, where you can meet a community of artists and makers creating multimedia artwork. If you want to get in touch with your own creative side, sign up for a ‘sketch and stroll’ with the St Ives School of Painting, join in all sorts of art and craft activities at the Barnoon Workshop, or learn to throw a pot at the Leach Pottery. Once you’ve seen St Ives and its surrounds, take a short hop across the wild scenery of Penwith to the south coast, where the creative hubs of Penzance and Newlyn snatch a well-earned beam of the artistic spotlight. On the back of the famous Newlyn School art colony of the 1880s, and later, the Forbes School of Painting, the Newlyn School of Art was founded here in 2011, and provides painting, sculpture and

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drawing courses under the tutelage of over 30 of Cornwall’s most respected artists. You can see an extensive exhibition of original Newlyn School art at the Penlee House Gallery and Museum in Penzance, while the more modern Newlyn Art Gallery and its sibling, The Exchange, feature ambitious contemporary projects by today’s local artists. In addition to these arty hotspots that will introduce you to some of the region’s most notable artists and venues, the allure of the county’s art scene also lies in the smaller galleries in more remote locations, and the wave of independent designermakers inspired by the diverse landscapes. Make a pit stop in the old mining village of St Just, home of one of Cornwall’s leading artists, Kurt Jackson, and witness his documentation of the seasons and scenery at the Jackson Foundation Gallery. p27

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“WITNESS AN ARRAY OF ARTWORK IN WORLD-CLASS GALLERIES, OR GET HANDS-ON WITH PAINTING, POTTERY OR POETRY WORKSHOPS”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


One of the most iconic buildings in West Cornwall, this unique circular gallery in the heart of Sennen Cove, has become a magnet for some of the best in Cornish art, jewellery and craft.

Set on two floors, the Capstan Room and Net Loft have two distinct personalities, each a showcase for Cornish excellence. Open daily from Easter until late October, with limited opening during the winter months. Please phone before making a long journey. 01736 871 859 roundhouse.gallery@btconnect.com The Roundhouse and Capstan Gallery, Sennen Cove TR19 7DF

Presenting changing exhibitions of contemporary art by regional, national and international artists newlynartgallery.co.uk

Roundhouse and Capstan Gallery @Capstangallery

www.round-house.co.uk

PHOTOGR APHY

C O R N WA L L P H O T O G R A P H Y WO R K S H O P S It’s true, we’re forever extolling Cornwall’s virtues. But there’s good reason! We challenge you to find anywhere else with golden beaches, rugged cliffs, river inlets and bewitching moorland all within a stone’s throw of each other. No wonder its stunning landscapes and incredible coastline are the muse of many writers, artists and photographers. When Carla Regler moved to Porthleven, she found herself beguiled by the area’s natural beauty, and started photographing the landscape, soon building up a local reputation, before reaching global acclaim for her now widely celebrated shots of the great storms of 2014. Whether visiting or lucky enough to call Cornwall home, there’ll be moments you want to cherish forever. And with Carla’s help, you can improve your photography skills and get those perfect shots too. The award-winning photographer runs a range of relaxed but comprehensive courses, workshops and one-to-one sessions, giving you a solid grounding in photography, both on-location and in post-production. Carla’s workshops are open to photographers of all abilities and she tailors the time around you. She also takes her courses all around the world, so if you fancy trying your photography even further afield, Carla is planning some amazing ventures.

For more information, visit Carla’s website, then get snapping! 01326 354 171

|

gallery@carlaregler.com

1 Chapel Terrace, Porthleven, Cornwall TR13 9HS

LANDSCAPE

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

SEASCAPE

NAT UR E

W W W. C A R L A R E G L E R . C O M

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ADOBESTOCK; FALMOUTH ART GALLERY; JORDAN LAURENCE-JACKSON/BARNOON WORKSHOP; STEVE TANNER PHOTOGRAPHY/NEWLYN ART GALLERY & THE EXCHANGE

ARTS & CULTURE

Pause in the picturesque Lamorna Cove, hunkered on the south coast, and explore in the footsteps of the Post-impressionist artists who gravitated here to work in the early 20th century. Stained-glass artist Dreya Wharry is one of Cornwall’s many independent artists whose creations echo Cornwall’s natural environment. Wharry’s bespoke glasswork – from waves to wildlife – is sold in boutique galleries including The Picture House in Padstow and the Create Gallery at Bedruthan Hotel, Mawgan Porth. With a huge proliferation of art festivals, makers guilds and craft fairs cropping up across the county, you don’t have to hunt high and low to unearth – and commission – artists like Wharry. Organisations such as the Newquay Makers Guild and the Cornwall Crafts Association are brilliant starting blocks for finding unique pieces by talented local artists. One of the biggest art events is undoubtedly the nine-day Open Studios in May, when hundreds of artists across the county throw open the doors to their unusual workspaces, from historic chapels to coastal cottages. Follow the iconic ‘O’ signs scattered across Cornwall to venues where you can meet the creators, sign up for workshops and get your hands

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on unique sculptures, glasswork, ceramics, paintings and textiles. Another celebration to be flagged on any art lovers’ calendar is the St Ives September Festival – a two-week spread of theatre productions, art exhibitions, literary events and live music, celebrating the region’s diverse creative bounty. Falmouth’s three-day Arts Alive festival brings the spotlight to the South Coast art community in June, bringing together the art, theatre and music that underpin the creative culture of this harbour town. Stroll through Falmouth in any season to discover a string of galleries and creative enterprises: the historic venue of The Poly shows classic and contemporary films and exhibitions, while the prestigious Falmouth Art Gallery grants free entry to collections by major British artists including Victorian painters, British Impressionists and leading maritime artists. Home of one of the UK’s leading creative universities (which is its own microcosm of multi-media arts, hosting music nights and literati gatherings), it’s little wonder that Falmouth has become so popular on the art and literary scene. Make a beeline for Beerwolf Books if you want to browse p28

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“SEE COLLECTIONS BY MAJOR BRITISH ARTISTS INCLUDING VICTORIAN PAINTERS, BRITISH IMPRESSIONISTS AND LEADING MARITIME ARTISTS”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


“WILDWORKS HAS BECOME RENOWNED FOR ITS INTERACTIVE PERFORMANCES IN INSPIRATIONAL SETTINGS SUCH AS TRELOWARREN AND HELIGAN”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

wall-to-wall books, meet book- and beer-loving folk, listen to bands, and perhaps bump into the town’s resident authors such as Emily Barr. However, Cornwall’s most notable literary connections should arguably be attributed to Fowey, once home to the region’s best-known author, Daphne du Maurier. The annual Fowey Festival of Arts and Literature, held each May, was launched in honour of du Maurier, and her legacy is still very much at the core of this celebration of words, art and music. However, you don’t have to time your visit with the festival to explore the Fowey Estuary, climb to the daymark atop Gribbin Head and admire the historic Menabilly Estate that inspired some of her work. Du Maurier wasn’t the only author penning Fowey and its surrounds into her novels; hop on a river cruise from Fowey to Lerryn and you’ll be messing around in the scenery that inspired Ratty and Mole’s boat trip in Kenneth Grahame’s Wind in the Willows. Much of the Atlantic-lashed north coast of Cornwall has also stirred the imaginations of writers over the decades. Visit the picturesque harbour village of Boscastle, where Thomas Hardy fell in love with his first wife, or climb the grassy knoll of Brea

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Hill from Daymer Bay, to soak up the scenery that inspired the late Poet Laureate, John Betjeman, taking the diversion to St Enodoc Church where he is buried. Between the two is pretty Port Isaac, well known as the fictional Port Wenn in Doc Martin. As you make your way around the coast from the cliffs near Porthcothan, to the dunes of Holywell Bay and around Land’s End to Porthgwarra and Charlestown, you’ll step foot in many of the coastal nooks and crannies that have starred alongside Ross and Demelza in the BBC hit, Poldark. On the back of Poldark’s success you can join a number of guided tours into Poldark country, including an eight-day cycling tour through the filming locations with Cornish Cycle Tours. Films and TV series aren’t the only performances in which Cornwall’s scenery plays such a vital role: this is a county that boasts an exceptional variety of unique, outdoor theatre settings. Best known on the international stage is the Minack Theatre, an amphitheatre carved into the cliffs at Porthcurno. The life’s work of Rowena Cade, the Minack opened in 1932 with a production of Shakespeare’s The Tempest, and at least one Shakespeare classic features in the annual programme of plays and music in which the Cornish weather, the spectacular ocean

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FOTOLIA; HUFTON+CROW/EDEN PROJECT; IAN KINGSNORTH/VISIT CORNWALL; STEVE TANNER/WILDWORKS; THE LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN

ARTS & CULTURE

backdrop, and sometimes even passing dolphins, play their part. If you don’t catch one of the seasonal performances (April until October), it’s still worth a visit to check out the remarkable setting and sub-tropical terraced gardens. Despite the unpredictable Cornish weather, open-air theatre has become a huge phenomenon here – a result of both the proliferation of talented performing arts organisations and the incredible, crowd-pulling venues. The innovative Miracle Theatre Company have been putting on open-air theatre shows for over 35 years, in an ever-growing programme of venues from historic houses such as Pencarrow and Lanhydrock, to Trebah and Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens. More recently the award-winning Rogue Theatre has made an indelible mark on the scene, with magical productions in the enchanting Tehidy Woods. From the Wild Woodland Summer Ball to the spooky Dead of the Night Dance, there are shows for all ages. Based in Redruth and helmed by award-winning director Bill Mitchell, Wildworks has become renowned for its interactive performances that bring together theatre and landscape in inspirational settings such as Trelowarren and Heligan.

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Contemporary dance has also made a debut on Cornish beaches in recent years, with the mesmerising Shoreline, performed by Simon Birch Dance at the likes of Watergate Bay, Sennen Cove and Kynance Cove. You don’t have to take a punt on the Cornish weather to catch the best of the region’s performing arts. Wherever you’re staying you won’t be far from one of the county’s glam indoor venues showing theatre and live music. Catch regular dance, theatre and music at the Acorn Centre in Penzance, watch international headliners at the Eden Sessions, enjoy world-class musicals and rock concerts at the Hall For Cornwall in Truro, or take a pew in the city’s awe-inspiring cathedral for a classical concert or festive carols. Celebrating the county’s cultural tourism, Cornwall 365 is a network of the county’s key creative players. In a place so packed with art and cultural events and attractions, the endless list of what’s on – and where – can be mind-boggling. So, for a fast-track guide to what’s happening during your holiday, see the Cornwall 365 website or get under the skin of Cornwall’s creative and cultural scene with one of their Find & Seek guides. l

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“CONTEMPORARY DANCE HAS ALSO MADE A DEBUT ON CORNISH BEACHES IN RECENT YEARS AT THE LIKES OF WATERGATE BAY, SENNEN COVE AND KYNANCE COVE”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


48 HOURS

IF YOU’RE ONLY HERE FOR 48 HOURS… You can pack a lot into a couple of days – try this itinerary to make the most of it

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

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9548315445/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ADAM GIBBARD/VISIT CORNWALL; CAMEL VALLEY VINEYARD; TIM WRIGHT/UNSPLASH

W

ith improved transport links it’s quick and easy to get to Cornwall from every corner of the country, which has put the region on the map as a prime short-break destination. Here’s how to spend 48 hours here.

“MAKE TRACKS NORTH TO THE MARKET TOWN OF WADEBRIDGE, PAUSING AT THE CAMEL VALLEY VINEYARD TO SAMPLE AWARD-WINNING VINTAGES”

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DAY ONE Fly directly into Newquay and head straight to the heart of town to check the surf over morning coffee at No.5 Brewhouse. Strike out south along the coast path to the 14th century Huer’s Hut, where you can look out at the coastal panorama from where the ‘huer’ would shout “Heva, Heva”, to alert local fishermen when shoals of pilchards came into the bay. From here it’s only minutes on foot to Fistral Beach for a surf lesson at the UK’s surfing capital. Fuel up with a lazy lunch watching the world-class waves – choose from pizza and cider at The Stable, global cuisine at Rick Stein’s or local seafood at The Fish House. Once you’ve kitted yourself out in surf fashion at the cluster of waterside shops, it’s time to get behind the wheel and make tracks north to the market town of Wadebridge, pausing at the Camel Valley Vineyard to sample award-winning vintages. Then swap four wheels for two and hire a bike from Bridge Bike Hire to freewheel along the Camel Trail to Padstow. Once you’re in Cornwall’s foodie mecca don't waste too much time queuing at Stein’s Fish and Chips – there are plenty more places to stuff yourself

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to the gills in the heart of town and beyond. Instead fill your picnic basket with pasties and sweet treats at Stein’s Patisserie and hop on the Black Tor Ferry to cross the estuary to Rock. Climb the grassy knoll of Brae Hill to capture the scenery that inspired Poet Laureate John Betjeman, and then feel the sand between your toes on beautiful Daymer Bay. Returning via the wonkysteepled St Enodoc Church where Betjeman is buried, quench your thirst with a locally-brewed beer at The Mariners yachtie pub in Rock. It’s up to you whether you hop back on the ferry for dinner in Padstow or press on to Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen in pretty Port Isaac. p33

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


WELCOME TO CORNWALL!

If you’re planning your next visit, or you want some reminders of this one, visit:

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM/CORNWALL To view our full portfolio of visitor guides to the UK and Ireland, visit kingfishervisitorguides.com

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48 HOURS

“FOLLOW THE COAST ROAD TO THE WESTERLY TIP OF MAINLAND BRITAIN TO TAKE A SOUVENIR PHOTO ON LAND’S END”

ADOBESTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; VISITENGLAND/ SOUTH WEST COAST PATH/PAUL MELLING

DAY TWO Treat yourself to breakfast surfside at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen on Watergate Bay, then hotfoot down the A30 to Lelant Saltings and board the coastal railway to St Ives. Soak up the views made famous across the globe via John Miller’s paintings, and disembark beside the pearly sands of Porthminster for lunch at the Michelin-starred Porthminster Beach Café. You’re bound to loiter in the boutiques and arty haunts that line the cobbled streets, but make sure there’s time to admire the monumental sculptures in the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Gardens, and take a spin around the Tate St Ives. Dip into the history of this fishing village turned artists colony at the St Ives Museum (once a pilchard curing cellar) before strolling around ‘the island’, keeping your eyes peeled for dolphins and climb to the tiny St Nicholas Chapel on the way to surf-lashed Porthmeor. While the walk from Porthmeor to Zennor is possibly one of the finest four-hour stretches on the entire South West Coast Path, save time by hopping on the open-topped bus to the wild little place much-loved by DH Lawrence and steeped in tales of a legendary mermaid. After a pint at the traditional Tinners Arms, follow the coast road to the westerly tip of mainland Britain to take a souvenir photo on Land’s End. Instead of getting caught up in the ‘theme park’ attractions here, backtrack a mile or so to Sennen Cove for a sundowner and seafood feast overlooking the crashing waves at Ben Tunnicliffe’s Michelin-starred restaurant. If you want a whirlwind trip around the best of Cornwall in 48 hours, tailor-make a private itinerary with an expert guide at Tour Cornwall. l

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


DAYS OUT

LET’S GO THERE! Whatever the time of year, and whatever the weather, there’s always plenty to do here

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; FOTOLIA

N

ot just famous for its beaches and the allure of bucket-andspade days, Cornwall is crammed with great things to do from its corrugated coastline and sub-tropical landscapes to its vibrant towns and unique indoor attractions. Don a wetsuit and brace yourself for a coasteering or monster SUP adventure, take a spin along cycle routes criss-crossing World Heritage landscapes, cast away by boat and feel the wind in your sails, or walk in the footsteps of pilgrims, artists, writers and film makers. In 2017 the iconic Tate St Ives re-opened to much applaud after an 18-month pause for expansion. Nudging the Atlantic rollers of Porthmeor beach and basking in the crisp light that has drawn artists to West Penwith since the 1930s, Cornwall’s most famous gallery exhibits contemporary art that changes with the seasons, as well as original work by some of the 20th-century artists who brought fame to the town. Within its ground-breaking architecture there is also a roof garden, rooftop café and creative learning spaces. By far the best way to reach to St Ives is on the scenic coastal railway from St Erth, and while you’re in town make time to visit the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, dip a toe in the surf, scour the coastline for dolphins and dine in one of a cluster of award-winning seaside eateries. If it’s the region’s foodie reputation that brings you to Cornwall, you no longer have to make a beeline for hotspots such as Padstow and St Ives to sample the county’s finest produce. Head to St Austell Bay and you’ll find the recently opened Cornucopia, a food hall crammed with delectable p36

“CORNWALL IS CRAMMED WITH GREAT THINGS TO DO FROM ITS CORRUGATED COASTLINE AND SUB-TROPICAL LANDSCAPES TO ITS VIBRANT TOWNS AND UNIQUE INDOOR ATTRACTIONS”

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


DAYS OUT

goods from artisan producers. Once you’re filled to the gills you can take a pasty quiz and find out all about the history of this protected regional food, then hit the multi-zone play area that boasts a skywire, dodgems and skate rink, or roll on into the evening for some live music or comedy. Hand-in-hand with its growing foodie reputation, St Austell is also home to one of Cornwall’s biggest breweries, St Austell Brewery, where you can take an interactive tour into the inner workings of the brew house before sampling some of the beers made here. Emphasising Cornwall’s burgeoning success on the artisan food and drink scene, a number p39

URBANBUZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

“TAKE AN INTERACTIVE TOUR INTO THE INNER WORKINGS OF THE BREW HOUSE BEFORE SAMPLING SOME OF THE BEERS MADE HERE”

ls r 1,000 anima e v o o t r e s Get clo

newquayzoo.org.uk 01637 873342

Registered Charity No. 300923

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

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Live Action Adventure Games for teams of 2-6

The Puzzle Room is a real-life escape game a dventur e. Work as a team to solve a series of puzzles, riddles and hints in order to find the hidden treasure within the 60 minutes time limit. A fun experience to enjoy with your friends, colleagues or family. The game is very challenging but gives you a great sense of achievement and encourages you to work together with your team to solve the puzzles .

CENTRALLY LOCATED IN MID CORNWALL Find out more and book: www.puzzleroomcornwall.co.uk Tel. 01872 560537


ERIK RINGSMUTH/UNSPLASH; MATT JESSOP/VISIT CORNWALL

DAYS OUT

of craft beer makers have cropped up throughout the county in recent years. So why not try a pint of Chocolate Stout or Surf Bum IPA at the Rebel Brewery in Penryn, or take a tractor ride through the orchards where Healey’s Cornish Cyder is produced? The south west’s sub-tropical climate means that it is also making its mark as a wine-producing region, and several vintages made at the Camel Valley Vineyard have won international awards. Cycle along the family-friendly Camel Trail from Wadebridge to Bodmin and you can make a pit-stop at the Camel Valley Vineyard for a refreshing glass of Cornwall ‘Brut’ – the region’s very own bubbly. Not all of Cornwall’s cycle trails are as flat and easy-going as the 18-mile Camel Trail, which follows a disused railway between Padstow and Bodmin Moor. If you’re serious about mountain biking, brace yourself for adrenalin-pumping downhills and the ease of an uplift at Cornwall’s first purpose-built bike park – Woody’s. Intermediate cyclists will enjoy the challenge of the Beast of Bodmin Trail at Cardinham Woods, while the National Trust’s Lanhydrock offers a series of bike trails and skills areas graded for all abilities – from toddlers on tag-a-longs to proficient mountain bikers. You can freewheel through Cornwall’s industrial past on the mineral clay trails;

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“IF YOU’RE SERIOUS ABOUT MOUNTAIN BIKING, BRACE YOURSELF FOR ADRENALIN-PUMPING DOWNHILLS AND THE EASE OF AN UPLIFT AT CORNWALL’S FIRST PURPOSE-BUILT BIKE PARK”

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the most popular of which is the coast-to-coast trail that weaves through World Heritage Mining landscapes between Portreath and Devoran. Instead of donning a cycle helmet to dip into Cornwall’s mining history, why not don a hard hat and head underground at Geevor Tin Mine, or take a tour of Europe’s only remaining tin streaming works at Tolgus Mill? Of course, the BBC’s popular Poldark series has brought Cornish mining scenes to life on our screens, and you can join a plethora of guided tours through the scenery that stars alongside Ross and Demelza – from Porthgwarra and the dunebacked Holywell Bay, to the cliff-tops of West Penwith where engine houses are perched above dramatic seascapes. Despite its foodie magnetism and a smorgasbord of culture and entertainment, it’s Cornwall’s stunning coastal scenery that’s still its star attraction. And there’s no better way to experience the wave-hewn landscapes than at walking pace from the South West Coast Path. Some of the toughest, yet most dramatic, sections of coastline await on the northern fringes of the Atlantic coast between Bude and Morwenstow, where calf-busting climbs etch the rise and fall of dramatic cliffs that collapse onto rocky beaches. p41

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


60 YEARS OF SEAL RESCUE CORNISH GW

E

EK

BOOK ONLINE FOR GREAT SAVINGS www.visitsealife.com/gweek

Established as a riding centre in 1977 by Andy Reeve, St Leonards Equitation Centre, nestling in the beautiful Tamar Valley, has been offering tuition to adults and children, from complete beginners to aspiring competition riders, for over 40 years. St Leonards Equitation Centre has is renowned for its friendly atmosphere and lessons are informal, good fun and progressive offering private lessons, group lessons and hacks.

www.stleonardsequestrian.co.uk

OWN A PONY DAY! from £40.00 on beautifully schooled horses and ponies. Our Own a Pony Days are extremely popular with children of all ages and abilities. Looking after a pony for the day is a memorable experience. A typical day, whilst fully supervised, would include grooming, feeding, a lesson in the morning and join in a gymkhana or show jumping competition in the afternoon – all abilities welcome.

Polson, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 9QR

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

T: +44 (0) 1566 775543

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E: info@stleonardsequestrian.co.uk

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DAYS OUT

©NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN MILLAR/NATIONALTRUST.ORG.UK; FOTOLIA

By contrast, the mile-and-a-half of wellmaintained path between Daymer Bay and surfy Polzeath is easily accessible with a buggy. Also accessible with buggies and wheelchairs is one of most visited destinations in Cornwall – Land’s End. It’s at this most westerly tip of the UK that the mainland peters out into 3,000 miles of ocean rolling all the way to America. However, if you prefer a more rugged hike and want to avoid the camera-wielding crowds, head for nearby Cape Cornwall, where two oceans meet and seabirds swirl around the Brisons Rocks. Between the craggy cliff tops that hem the county, Cornwall’s pockets of pearly sands have lured tourists p45

“IT’S AT THIS MOST WESTERLY TIP OF THE UK THAT THE MAINLAND PETERS OUT INTO 3,000 MILES OF OCEAN ROLLING ALL THE WAY TO AMERICA”

Roskilly’s are quite rightly famous for their lip-smacking ice creams and sorbets, but they are also a fantastically low-key attraction! This place is all natural in the best sense of the word, from the enchanted ponds and the apple orchards to the peaceful woodland walk to the coast. Fact fans will find interesting info boards dotted here and there, in particular one by the reed beds that have been built in order to filter and clean waste water. Oh, and for kids of all ages they have a menagerie of beasts including goats, turkeys, rare breed pigs, quails...

…and best of all, it is free to visit!

www.roskillys.co.uk admin@roskillys.co.uk • 01326 280479 Roskilly’s • Tregellast Barton Farm • St Keverne • TR12 6NX

Free parking

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


Let your little monkeys run wild in 1,700 sq ft of fun. Consisting of slides, tubes, rope bridges, ball pool & climbing frames. Café & seating | Children’s parties | Free WiFi Baby & toddler area | Open 7 days a week

info@junglejacks.co.uk 13 & 14 Treloggan Trade Park | Newquay | Cornwall | TR7 2QL

www.junglejacks.co.uk | 01637 852890

STAY IN CORNWALL Inspiring choices for your next stay in Cornwall

WWW.STAYINCORNWALL.CO.UK

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

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House and Gardens between Bodmin and Wadebridge on the A389  50 acres of tranquil grounds to explore  Fully guided tour of the House providing fascinating

insights into the life of the Molesworth- St Aubyn family  Peacock Café—drinks, cake, light

lunches  Garden and House Trails for kids  Dog friendly—they can run off the lead

in our woodland areas Gardens open daily 1st March—31st October 2018 Café, Shop & House open 25th March—27th Sept 2018 Sunday to Thursday (closed Fridays and Saturdays) Free car parking Children under 16 go free! www.pencarrow.co.uk email: info@pencarrow.co.uk Tel: 01208 841369

The Front Room is a quirky central Penzance cafe & bar. We offer specialty coffee, sumptuous all day breakfasts, filling lunches & amazing cakes or cream teas. All our food is made fresh to order using the best produce from selected passionate, local producers & wholesalers. We offer Vegan & Gluten free options and your dogs are also welcome! We serve our guests from 8am, Monday to Saturday and from 10am on Sundays. Plus selected evenings.

Give us a call : 01736 448681 Come visit : 83 Market Jew Street, Penzance, TR18 2LG Check out our website : www.thefrontroompz.co.uk or find us on Facebook: The Front Room Cafe Bar Pz

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


Newquay's Premier Surf School Novice to Advanced Surf Coaching Hot Showers & Changing Rooms Ocean View Restaurant & Bar Open All Year Round, 7 Days a Week From £25pp with All Equipment 

07810 805624 35 Fore Street, Newquay, TR7 1HD

www.escapesurfschool.co.uk info@escapesurfschool.co.uk

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL

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DAYS OUT

Creek Adventure Park in Wadebridge is a yearround, all-weather attraction, with heated indoor play for the coldest winter days and an array of rides and animal attractions for the whole family. Another unique attraction is the 18-hole Football Golf course through parkland and hillsides near St Austell. In a county so well-endowed with flora and fauna, it’s no wonder that there are so many places where you can enjoy close encounters with wildlife. Watch playful otters at the Tamar Otter and Wildlife Centre, near Launceston, meet rescued seal pups dipping and diving their way to recovery at the Cornish Seal Sanctuary in Gweek, and witness lobsters at different stages of their life cycle at the National Lobster Hatchery in Padstow. A day at Newquay Zoo is always a real crowd-pleaser, where you can stroll from the African Savannah to Madagascar, observing over 100 species of wildlife from lions to poison dart frogs. Both the Screech Owl Sanctuary (near Newquay) and Paradise Park (in Hayle) put on incredible free-flying bird shows, and, in addition to its many species of exotic birds, Paradise Park also has farm animals and a huge soft play barn that lures visitors on even the rainiest days. Of all the county’s garden wonderlands, the Eden Project is still the global mega-star, so its rainforest and Mediterranean biomes rising from Cornwall’s barren clay country need little introduction. p47

“A DAY AT NEWQUAY ZOO IS ALWAYS A REAL CROWD-PLEASER, WHERE YOU CAN STROLL FROM THE AFRICAN SAVANNAH TO MADAGASCAR, OBSERVING OVER 100 SPECIES OF WILDLIFE”

DAVID CHAPMAN/TREBAH GARDEN; MATTHEW JESSOP/ NMMC/VISIT CORNWALL; NEWQUAY ZOO

since the early 1900s – and it’s still these beautiful beaches that attract holidaymakers today. From the Atlantic-lashed Sennen Cove to the sweeping sand and shingle of Sandymouth, there are beaches to suit everyone – from the bucket-and-spade brigades and bathers, to ornithologists and even naturists. At the heart of Cornwall’s beach culture is surfing, and from the Lizard Peninsula to the northern reaches of Bude there is no shortage of surf schools, hire outlets, and surf shops to ensure you are kitted out and ready to ride the waves in any weather. Yet it’s not just the surfing industry that’s booming; there are plenty of other water sports to try. Castaway from Carbis Bay on a Hawaiian canoe with underwater viewers, gather a group of friends for some side-splitting fun on a giant stand-up paddleboard, or brave a power-coasteering adventure from Port Quin. If you don’t want to hit the open water, take a wild swim in Bude’s sea pool or a dip in the revamped Art Deco Jubilee Pool in Penzance. With the Cornish weather being so unpredictable, there are plenty of all-weather attractions, too. If the kids are climbing the walls, let them loose on the walls of Penryn’s Granite Planet or Clip and Climb at Cornwall Services. Dive into the underwater world without getting wet at Newquay’s Blue Reef Aquarium, or discover Cornwall’s seafaring heritage at the National Maritime Museum. The new Camel

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


If the worst happens, I know that Dogs Trust will care for him.

When I’m not here to love him, I know that Dogs Trust will be. Now I’ve got my free Canine Care Card, I have complete peace of mind. It guarantees that Dogs Trust will love and look after my dog if I pass away first. Dogs Trust is the UK’s largest dog welfare charity with 20 rehoming centres nationwide and they never put down a healthy dog.

Apply now for your FREE Canine Care Card.

Call: 020 7837 0006 or email: ccc@dogstrust.org.uk

Please quote “113124”

This service is currently only available for residents of the UK, Ireland, Channel Islands & the Isle of Man.

www.dogstrust.org.uk Reg Charity Nos: 227523 & SC037843


MATTHEW JESSOP/VISIT CORNWALL; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; THE LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN

DAYS OUT

“FROM POLDARK AND DOC MARTIN TOURS TO GARDEN AND WILDLIFE TOURS, YOU CAN WITNESS THE BEST OF CORNWALL IN THE HANDS OF A KNOWLEDGEABLE, LOCAL EXPERT”

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Another firm favourite with families – and dogs, too – is Trebah Garden, where you can wend through colourful foliage to a divine sandy beach perfect for skimming pebbles. One of Cornwall’s most historic gardens is the Lost Gardens of Heligan, where you can tunnel through bamboo, banana palms and gigantic rhubarb plants, to ancient woodlands and water meadows. Other must-see gardens include sub-tropical Glendurgan, which tumbles to the edge of the Helford River, and Trelissick’s stunning 500-acre estate, where you wander along the banks of the River Fal and climb magnificent beech trees before afternoon tea in the courtyard. There are few places more steeped in history than Cornwall’s majestic castles. Wait for low tide to cross the causeway to St Michael’s Mount, walking in the footsteps of pilgrims and a legendary giant as you climb to the turrets of the mighty fortress. Even more beguiling is the remains of Tintagel Castle, a crumbling edifice atop a rocky, sea-lashed

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promontory accessed via a footbridge. Believed by many to be the place where King Arthur was magically conceived, more solid evidence proves that these magnificent 13th-century ruins once belonged to the Earl of Cornwall, before which this was the site of a prosperous Dark Age settlement. If you want to experience the sights and sounds of battle, you’ll love the interactive exhibits at Henry VIII’s iconic Pendennis Castle, which protects the world’s third deepest natural harbour at the entrance to the River Fal. While Falmouth stands out for its rich maritime history, and its scenery is dominated by the comings and goings of boats and cruise ships from the harbour, the town and its surrounding Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty offer a diverse platter of things to do in any season. A creative hub crammed with resident artists, a lively music scene and home to one of the UK’s leading art and media universities, you’ll find a menu of films, theatre productions, exhibitions and creative gatherings at The Poly, as well as a vibrant series of events from sailing regattas to the Falmouth Oyster Festival. From Falmouth it’s easy to ferry hop to the chic waterside villages of St Mawes, Portscatho and Flushing, or take a boat all the way to Truro and browse the many independent boutiques in the shadow of the stunning cathedral. Other scenic ways to hit the shops and galleries include the coastal railway to arty St Ives and the Black Tor ferry from Rock to Padstow. Flummoxed about which sights and attractions to take in on your day out in Cornwall? Why not tailor-make your own itinerary with Tour Cornwall? From Poldark and Doc Martin tours to garden and wildlife tours, you can witness the best of Cornwall on a private, small group tour in the hands of a knowledgeable, local expert. l

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


FURTHER AFIELD

LET’S EXPLORE! Although you’ll never run out of things to do here, it’s also a great base for exploring the surrounding region

ADOBESTOCK; VISITENGLAND/PHIL NICHOLLS/TRESCO ABBEY GARDENS/VISIT PLYMOUTH/GUY CHANNING

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hile Cornwall might seem out on limb from the rest of the UK – and crammed with so much beauty and bounty that you won’t want to escape its embrace – it’s still a divine spot to break out to some other fascinating destinations. Whether you’ve got a day or a week to spare, you can hop on the Scillonian ferry from Penzance, or board the Skybus from Newquay, to the Isles of Scilly. Just 28 miles from the mainland, this timeless, sub-tropical archipelago is as unique and separate as an entirely different country, with a milder climate and cool, emerald seas that lick white-sand beaches and wave-hewn coastlines. The 150 islands and islets, only five of which are inhabited, are a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and home to an abundance of rare flora and wildlife. Cormorants, storm petrels and oystercatchers dance above the waves, warblers and whimbrels pass through on their southerly migrations and the ocean is home to a huge population of Atlantic grey seals as well as dolphins and basking sharks. In a day you can explore the diverse

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landscapes of the main island of St Mary’s – from heathland smattered with ancient archaeology wonders to smugglers’ coves fit for Famous Five adventures. If you’ve got any longer, ferry hop to the off islands to discover the world-famous Tresco Abbey Gardens, pad barefoot along the pristine beaches of St Martins or eat homemade ice cream at Troytown Farm on St Agnes. As a complete contrast to island life, take a trip just over the border of Cornwall to the cosmopolitan city of Plymouth, steeped in maritime culture and buzzing with creative energy. Gen up on the area’s naval history on Plymouth Hoe and climb the 93 steps to watch

“THIS TIMELESS, SUB-TROPICAL ARCHIPELAGO IS AS UNIQUE AND SEPARATE AS AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT COUNTRY, WITH A MILDER CLIMATE AND COOL, EMERALD SEAS THAT LICK WHITE-SAND BEACHES”

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ships come and go from the top of Smeaton’s Tower. This famous lighthouse tower was dismantled and moved from Eddystone Rocks and is now one of the south west’s most iconic landmarks. While the city is well endowed with maritime history, you can dip into the underwater world at the National Marine Aquarium, the UK’s biggest aquarium. In addition to its nautical charms, Plymouth boasts a diverse platter of art and culture including the City Museum and Art Gallery, featuring exhibitions of world cultures and maritime history alongside classic and contemporary art. While this eminent attraction is temporarily closed to be transformed into a ground-breaking, multi-million pound venture, make a beeline for the Peninsula Arts Gallery, the centre for contemporary art and culture that’s housed in Plymouth University. Once you’ve delved into Plymouth’s heritage, arts and shopping, you’ll have no doubt worked up an appetite. Straddling the foodie destinations of Devon and Cornwall it’s no surprise that the gourmet offerings are rich, with restaurants led by some of the UK’s top chefs including the Tanner brothers, Gary Rhodes, Mitch Tonks and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. l

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


SPORT

OUR SPORTING LIFE! An immense and sporting playground, Cornwall boasts diverse terrain to try all sorts of activities from surfing to cycling

ING IMAGE; JULIE MACEY/UNSPLASH

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region hemmed in by the ocean, it’s little surprise that water sports hog the activity limelight. Feel the briny wind in your sails when you launch a dinghy from Mylor or Falmouth, honing your nautical skills in the same place where Olympic gold medallist Ben Ainslie cut his teeth and Dame Ellen MacArthur completed her solo round-the-world expedition. If you’d prefer to explore the coastline under paddle power, why not hire a kayak and potter up the creeks of the River Fal or the Helford, or cast off into the iridescent waters of St Ives Bay? Launch from Carbis Bay on a six-man Hawaiian outrigger canoe, from which you can spot fish, seals and sometimes even basking

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

sharks through the underwater viewers. One of the county’s most historic water sports is gig rowing, which was handed down by 19th century oarsmen who rowed their boats out to incoming ships to compete for the job of piloting them into harbour. You can watch the traditional pilot gig boats being raced in Newquay harbour most Sunday mornings between April and September, or catch the County Gig Championships on the first weekend in September. In more recent years it’s surfing that’s taken over as the county’s most popular ocean sport, with Fistral Beach putting Newquay on the map as the UK’s surfing capital. Travelling surfers come from all over the globe to pull onto the

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perfect peaks of this sandy-bottomed break, and there are plenty of surf schools that will coax even the most novice surfers into wave masters. Prefer to ride the waves without having to get to your feet? Try hand planing – a turbo-charged version of bodysurfing using just fins and a hand-sized surfboard strapped to your palm. It’s quick to learn, and the experts at Watergate Bay’s Extreme Academy will have you zooming shoreward on your belly within minutes. The latest craze to hit the water sports scene is stand-up paddleboarding, which is much easier to get to grips with than surfing and can be enjoyed with or without waves. Get your balance on the flat water of Newquay’s River Gannel or Falmouth’s Gyllyngvase

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Beach, and once you’ve flexed your core muscles you can even try a SUP yoga class. Wild swimming, kite surfing, coasteering, diving – the list of water sports on offer in Cornwall is endless. But step back onto the shore and there are plenty of land-based activities, too. The rugged territory of West Cornwall beckons adventurous souls to rock-climb world-class routes such as Bosigran’s Commando Ridge, but you don’t have to be a rock-climbing expert to enjoy the indoor walls at the new Clip ‘n’ Climb centre at Cornwall Services in Victoria. Cyclists can enjoy white-knuckle downhill tracks or family-friendly woodland trails at Lanhydrock and Cardinham, or opt for the easygoing territory of the Camel Trail or the Mineral Tramways Coast-to-Coast routes. If you want to don your walking boots, you’ll be spoilt for choice from the diverse terrain of the South West Coast Path to the peaks of Bodmin Moor; or perhaps you’d prefer to see if you can score a birdie on some of the most scenic golf courses in Britain? l

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“THE RUGGED TERRITORY OF WEST CORNWALL BECKONS ADVENTUROUS SOULS TO ROCKCLIMB WORLD-CLASS ROUTES”

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


EATING OUT

A TASTE OF THE SOUTH WEST – AND THE WORLD! Whether you tuck into seafood flipped from rod to pan or ice cream churned from cow to cone, seaside living has never tasted better

DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY/RICK STEIN’S FISH

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ot so long ago, the taste of Cornwall was unwrapped from Cornish pasties, fish and chips, and clotted cream ice cream. And while these lip-smacking ingredients are still on menus across the county, a new wave of gastronomy has swept the region. Cornwall’s rich contrast of coast and countryside means that the calibre, and diversity, of the food produced here tops that of almost any other region in the UK. Combine that with a growing number of celebrity chefs and stylish eateries spilling out beside jaw-dropping beaches, and it’s little wonder that Cornwall has bagged a firm spot on the gastronomic map. If you’re keen to conjure up a culinary masterpiece using the abundance of Cornish ingredients you can get your hands on, you’ll find a growing number of cookery schools where you can hone your skills in the kitchen. At Rick Stein’s Cookery School you can learn to prepare seafood, create curries, rustle up tasty tapas and bake your own bread and pastries. Tucked in the sublime scenery of the Roseland Peninsula is the Philleigh Way Cookery School, where you can get to grips with Cornish farmhouse style cooking, using recipes and techniques handed down through generations. With so many dazzling producers, ingredients and styles of food to sample, it’s little wonder that recent years have seen ‘food halls’ rise in popularity. Here, artisan producers come together and showcase p54

“CORNWALL’S RICH CONTRAST OF COAST AND COUNTRYSIDE MEANS THAT THE CALIBRE, AND DIVERSITY, OF THE FOOD PRODUCED HERE TOPS THAT OF ALMOST ANY OTHER REGION IN THE UK”

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“THERE’S NO BETTER WAY TO TASTE MOUTHWATERING CORNISH CUISINE THAN BY EATING OUT IN THE RESTAURANTS OF BIGNAME SUPER CHEFS AND LESSER-KNOWN CULINARY ARTISANS”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

their goods, so your taste buds can take a tour of Cornwall’s foodie treasures under one roof. Sample charcuterie, baked goods and Cornish rum at the Norton Barton Artisan Food Village near Bude, or find the finest coffee, craft beers and flavoursome foods at the brand new Temple near Summerleaze beach. St Austell Bay is fast vying for its place on the foodie radar, where Cornucopia boasts a smorgasbord of regional produce alongside a pasty heritage centre. Whatever time of year you’re visiting Cornwall, you’ll find an array of events celebrating the county’s rich food culture. The Falmouth Oyster Festival in October celebrates the oyster-dredging season in one of the last traditional oyster fisheries while, of all the fish festivals, Newlyn hosts the whopper on August Bank Holiday, in the home of Cornwall’s largest fishing fleet. The biggest annual foodie extravaganza is the Great Cornish Food Festival held in Truro in September. There’s no better way to taste the mouth-watering Cornish cuisine than by eating out in the county’s foodie hotspots – from the restaurants of big-name super chefs to the kitchens of lesser-known culinary artisans. And seeing as ‘Padstein’ sparked Cornwall’s foodie revolution when Rick Stein opened his flagship Seafood Restaurant here in 1975, this picturesque harbour town is a good place to begin.

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While Stein is still a huge name in town and you need to book months ahead to bag a table at the famous Seafood Restaurant, these days there’s much more than the celeb chef ’s empire of eateries to choose from. Most notable amongst the newcomers is Prawn on the Lawn, a seafood bar that serves lobsters, crabs and fish flipped straight off the boats onto the charcoal grill. Arguably the best place to eat is Paul Ainsworth at No.6. Here Ainsworth spins bold, seasonal ingredients – think Porthilly oysters from the Camel Estuary or monkfish fresh off the day boats – into mouth-watering, modern British dishes. More informal – and affordable – is Ainsworth’s Rojano’s in the Square, where you can tuck into the devilish combo of Italian cuisine and Cornish produce. Year-round queues suggest that Stein’s Fish and Chips is still the best chippy in town, and it undoubtedly serves up the widest range of locallylanded fish. Of the rest of the Stein’s stable, the most crowd-pleasing is Stein’s Café, where you can enjoy a reasonably priced menu showcasing local seafood and global flavours. If you’re prepared to depart from the harbour-side hub, seek out the boutique garden centre on the edge of town, where you’ll discover the new Margots at Trevisker – the re-invention of what was one of the most bookedout restaurants in Padstow before it closed its doors a few years ago. North Cornwall’s food scene is by no means relegated to the gastronomic enclave that is Padstow; the surrounding area is also smattered with tasty gems. Topping the list is Nathan Outlaw’s duo of Michelin-starred restaurants in pretty Port Isaac. The menus at both Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen (by the harbour) and Restaurant Nathan Outlaw (at the top of the hill), are driven by what comes in off the fishing boats on the doorstep. If you prefer a more laid-back, beachside venue for a summer’s day, wander the short distance from Port Isaac to neighbouring Port Gaverne to munch on the likes of mussels and mackerel at the waterside Pilchard’s Café. Or, watch the sailing dinghies beside the serene Camel Estuary, where Outlaw has teamed up with Sharp’s Brewery to take the reins of the Mariner’s in Rock. Make a day of it and arrive on the Black Tor ferry from Padstow, before whiling away the afternoon over a crisp Atlantic Pale Ale with Porthilly oysters, lobster, mussels and catch of the day. Emily Scott is somewhat of a local food hero who made her name in Port Isaac before spreading her foodie wings to the nearby village of St Tudy. Here, at the cosy St Tudy Inn, she lures gastronomes from far and wide with ‘simple, seasonal, beautiful’ food. Also on the outskirts of Padstow, Appleton’s at the Vineyard beckons punters passionate about Cornish food and the Cornish lifestyle, to a stunning venue enveloped by vegetable gardens, pastures and Trevibban Mill’s vineyard and orchards. As you cruise down the Atlantic Highway towards the UK’s surf capital – Newquay – it’s easy to zoom

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ADOBESTOCK; DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY/ RICK STEIN’S FISH; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

EATING OUT

past the trendy roadside café that is Strong Adolfos. If you miss it, it’s worth making a U-turn to experience the unique mix of world flavours, motorcycle culture, Cornish ingredients and coastal life. Make a pit stop for coffee and Swedish Fika (sweet treats), fuel up with a hearty breakfast before a surf on one of the nearby beaches, or tuck into big burgers and global dishes from Moroccan stew to Sri Lankan curry. Heading into Newquay, where big names like Rick Stein and Jamie Oliver are behind swanky restaurants nudging the Atlantic rollers, it’s plain to see that this surf town has shed its all-night party image and grown into something of gastronomic honey pot. While you can still enjoy fish and chips or ice creams on the beach, you’re more likely to find yourself ordering delicious gluten-free delicacies, vitamin-packed smoothies and dishes showcasing local ingredients from seafood to samphire. Serving Italian-inspired cuisine overlooking Watergate Bay’s two miles of surf-lashed sands, Jamie Oliver’s restaurant needs little introduction. If you can’t get a table for lunch or dinner try your luck for breakfast, or see if you can bag a last-minute seat at the antipasti bar. If you prefer the sort of place where you can come straight off the beach without shaking the sand from your toes, take a seat downstairs at The Beach Hut, and grab a legendary

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burger, an extreme hot chocolate or seafood-biased bistro favourites. You can travel around the world in Newquay’s platter of eateries, from tacos at trendy Gilmore’s (where you can also enjoy a round of mini golf ), to kangaroo and crocodile at the Aussie-style Bush Pepper. Re-igniting a popular surfers’ hangout of the 1960s, The Slope Bar & Kitchen has recently opened on Great Western Beach, boasting a sustainable ethos and serving freshly ground coffee and food fit for hungry beach goers – think share platters, loaded fries and vegan food. If you want to sample the fruits of the sea, both the unpretentious Boathouse (hunkered beside Newquay Harbour) and the Harbour Fish and Grill (overlooking the harbour) are stunning locations to try the lobsters, crabs and fresh fish landed here. Prefer to eat with your toes in the sand? Head to Gustos and grab a takeaway Med-style food box filled with the likes of falafels, flat breads and smoked meats. Echoing Australian beach life, Newquay’s Fistral Beach has also spawned a huddle of eateries overlooking the world-class waves. Surfer and chef Paul Harwood serves elegant, rustic seafood platters at The Fish House, while Rick Stein’s Fistral serves up Indian specialities alongside fish dishes. Upstairs at The Stable, hand-made pizzas and pies are piled high with regional produce and p56

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accompanied by a vast selection of West Country ciders. Meandering west along Cornwall’s main artery, the A30, there are a few places worth stopping for food and drink. Pause in The Fox’s Revenge at Summercourt, the latest venture from the team behind the food and music venue, The Old Grammar School, in Truro. The Fox is more of a country-pub affair, with great food, a vibrant ambience and crowd-pulling events such as outdoor movies and live music. Detour to Trevaunance Cove in St Agnes and you’ll find Schooners – a beauty of a beachside restaurant that’s just been reopened – to much applaud – by a trio of talented locals who know exactly where to source – and how to cook – the finest artisan ingredients. Tucked in the countryside surrounding Truro is Nancarrow Farm, where organic beef and lamb are reared in lush pastures, and huge feast nights are thrown in the farmhouse kitchen. Heading west, pause on a deckchair by the Hayle Estuary and tuck into crab tacos at the new Black Lobster, before hopping on the coastal railway to St Ives – the arty town that’s fast chasing Padstow for the reputation of Cornwall’s top culinary destination. Here the Porthminster Café boasts a string of accolades, so if you want to soak up the beachside vibes over ingredients plucked from the ocean and the café’s kitchen garden, it’s worth booking ahead. Also from the team behind The Porthminster Café is the newcomer, Porthminster Kitchen, where you can sample a light and creative twist on Cornish cuisine in a chic urban setting overlooking the harbour. Another newbie in the heart of town is Gilmore’s, which – following the success of its Newquay venture – serves burritos and beers in the atmospheric setting of The Old Custom House on the wharf. With so many restaurants along the pretty seafront in St Ives, it’s worth doing some homework to ensure you end up eating out in the best of the line-up. If you want fresh Cornish ingredients fused with the global flavours of Asia and the Med, head to the Porthgwidden Café, a relaxed and intimate setting hunkered on the edge of a white-sand cove. If you’ve been visiting the Tate St Ives or surfing the waves on Porthmeor beach, watch the sun go down over tapas and Mediterranean-inspired dishes at the Porthmeor Café Bar. If you’ve been watching boats come and go in the harbour grab a burger with an ethical twist from the rustic Blas Burger, or don your glad rags and book a table in the upstairs dining room at the stylish Alba – a former lifeboat station where you can enjoy modern British cuisine. Tucked away in

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

the cobbled streets, The Black Rock is a true Cornish gem run by a third-generation fisherman who uses line-caught fish, forages for wild ingredients and keeps his own Galloway cows on the family farm nearby. Beyond St Ives it’s worth seeking out the wild, ends-of-the-earth location of The Gurnard’s Head, a stylish country inn serving seasonal produce plucked from the Cornish larder. It’s far out west that one of Cornwall’s top chefs, Ben Tunnicliffe, has made his mark: First he transformed Newlyn’s Tolcarne Inn into one of the West County’s finest fish restaurants, then he opened Ben Tunnicliffe at Sennen, where he serves his signature dishes overlooking stunning surf-lashed sands. Heading around the tip of Cornwall and into its southern flanks, Porthleven is making a name for itself as an emerging foodie enclave, what with Stein serving his classic seafood by the harbour alongside the likes of Amélies, which has long been famous for its Sunday roasts, seafood and music nights. Lesser known and hidden away from the harbour is the SeaDrift Kitchen Café, flaunting a menu that’s scrawled daily with whatever the local

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“TUCKED AWAY IN THE COBBLED STREETS, THIS TRUE CORNISH GEM IS RUN BY A THIRD-GENERATION FISHERMAN WHO USES LINECAUGHT FISH, FORAGES FOR WILD INGREDIENTS AND KEEPS HIS OWN GALLOWAY COWS ON THE FAMILY FARM NEARBY”

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ADOBESTOCK; DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY/RICK STEIN’S FISH; ING IMAGE; JAMES RAM/ RICK STEIN FISTRAL; KATIE HOPE/THE FRONT ROOM; STEVEN JOYCE/PRAWN ON THE LAWN

EATING OUT

fishermen have caught, as well as Cornishreared steaks. Not forgetting Porthleven’s multi-award winning Kota, renowned for its seafood-biased menu fusing Cornish ingredients with Asian influences. The bigger, more vibrant harbour town of Falmouth is abound with waterside eateries, including the unusual Oliver’s – a stripped back little bistro that’s made its name from serving up exquisite seasonal and foraged foods. Seafood lovers, get your bibs and finger bowls ready for lashings of seafood served in Portuguese cataplanas (cooking pans) at the Wheelhouse Crab and Oyster Bar, or stroll along the coast path to Hooked on the Rocks at Swanpool Beach, where it’s hard to take your eyes off the view, even when a whole Cornish lobster is brought to the table. If you want to dine on the beach of your choice, lay out your rug and Picnic Cornwall will deliver a bespoke hamper stuffed with delicious Cornish goodies from champagne and strawberries to artisan breads and Cornish cheeses. Seek out the historic Pandora Inn tucked up the creek away from the buzz of Falmouth, or hop on a ferry from Falmouth to the Roseland

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Peninsula. Here the Driftwood Hotel, overlooking Gerrans Bay, flaunts a Michelin star for its divine seafood served with sublime views. The secret is long out about the Hidden Hut on the Porthcurnick Beach, where you can enjoy summer salads or seasonal soups at lunchtime, or try your luck for a gold-dust ticket to one of the magical feast nights, when the likes of paella and woodroasted lamb are cooked over the beachside fire-pit. Follow the sailing boats to picturesque Fowey, where sailors come ashore to wine and dine. Savour a plate of Fowey River oysters while watching the boats from the terrace of Q at The Old Quay House Hotel, or enjoy a tipple and tapas at the Spanish Pintxo bar. East Cornwall is sometimes the forgotten corner of a foodie tour, but it’s worth making the effort to discover some of its hidden gems. In the small village of Antony near Torpoint, Emily Watkins (of the Great British Menu), helms the kitchen of the Carew Arms, focussing on seasonal

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ingredients and an innovative play on classic dishes. Graze on simple, modern seafood dishes at The View in Whitsands, and as you look out to Eddystone Lighthouse and the Cornish coastline it’s easy to see where the restaurant got its name. It’s not only Cornwall’s food that’s highly rated on the national menu; with a Cornish gin distillery, an internationally-acclaimed vineyard and local coffee roasters, its drinks are creating a tasty tidal wave, too. The multi award-winning Rebel Brewing Company and the Harbour Brewing Company are amongst a growing number of microbreweries producing specialist craft beers, while Healey’s Cornish Cyder Farm turn the fruits from their orchards into thirstquenching ciders and tangy spirits. Nowhere is better proof of the advantages of the sub-tropical climate for growers than the vine-covered slopes of the Camel Valley, where award-winning wines include the county’s own ‘Cornwall’ Brut sparkling wine. l

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


NIGHTLIFE

WELCOME TO THE NIGHT! From its swanky cocktail bars to full-throttle festivals, Cornwall knows how to throw an après beach party

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beaches. Boogie the night away at the Silent Disco at Fistral Beach Bar, or sip cocktails in the buzzing Chy Bar before the ambience ramps up and neighbouring Koola club spins dance music into the early hours. If you’re looking for somewhere a little more sophisticated, seek out the hip Tom Thumb speak easy, where expert mixologists serve premium cocktails and hold masterclasses and tasting sessions. For cocktails bang on the beach, head for the newly-opened Colonial at Tolcarne Beach, where you can sip a mojito or tuck into a slap-up seafood meal while watching bodyboarders tuck into the famous ‘Wedge’ surf break. Not far out of town, a scenic walk along the valley from wave-pounded Mawgan Porth, you can find one of North Cornwall’s coolest bars tucked in the bohemian setting of a renovated barn. Retorrick Mill, also home to Scott and Babs Wood Fired Food, is the sort of place where you can start the evening with a finger-licking candle-lit dinner and end up dancing on the tables to a full-throttle funk band. If you prefer a more serene setting for a sundowner, you don’t have to stray far from the bright lights of Newquay. Perched on Pentire Headland, at the southern end of Fistral Beach, take a seat on the terrace or warm your p60

hether you’ve been rambling across Bodmin Moor, getting saltwater in your hair or taking a spin around cultural attractions, there are plenty of ways to wind down at the end of a day in Cornwall. Sip a cocktail and watch the sunset over the sea, listen to beats by the beach, cast off in a party boat or hunker by the log fire in a cosy inn. In a county surrounded by ocean, there are plenty of places to enjoy a tipple by the waves as the sun goes down. Arguably the coolest of these is the legendary Blue Bar in Porthtowan, where rolling surf and cracking sunsets are the backdrop to drinking, dining, live music and comedy nights. Also vying for the honour of Cornwall’s best beach bar is The Watering Hole in Perranporth, where you can chill out surfside for the sunset, fight the seagulls for your fish and chips, then dance until the early hours to top British bands and DJs. Newer on the scene is the trendy Surf Den that’s part of Ben Tunnicliffe at Sennen Cove; here you can catch DJ sets and live music in a scenic setting at the water’s edge. If it’s rolling surf and rocking nightlife you’re after, Newquay is well-endowed with lively bars and clubs lined-up beside some world-class surfing

“IN A COUNTY SURROUNDED BY OCEAN, THERE ARE PLENTY OF PLACES TO ENJOY A TIPPLE BY THE WAVES AS THE SUN GOES DOWN. ARGUABLY THE COOLEST OF THESE IS IN PORTHTOWAN, WHERE ROLLING SURF AND CRACKING SUNSETS ARE THE BACKDROP TO DRINKING, DINING AND LIVE MUSIC”

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WELCOME TO CORNWALL


“IF IT’S ROLLING SURF AND ROCKING NIGHTLIFE YOU’RE AFTER, NEWQUAY IS WELL-ENDOWED WITH LIVELY BARS AND CLUBS LINED-UP BESIDE SOME WORLD-CLASS SURFING BEACHES”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL

cockles by the fire at the Lewinnick Lodge. This revamped 18th-century cottage has posed as a smugglers’ den and a lobster hold, and is a sublime spot to see the sunset over the swarms of surfers on Fistral Beach. However, if you are prepared to explore further off the beaten track, wind up The Atlantic Highway to Trebarwith Strand (near Port Isaac), where you can sip local ales while looking out to the rugged coastline from The Port William. Although you don’t get the breath-taking sunset on the south coast, there are plenty of cool hangouts where you can still enjoy beach views. Lounge on the decking at the Gylly Beach Café in Falmouth, where there are also regular music nights with tunes spilling out onto the sand. At the Godolphin Arms in Marazion you can sip fine wines and local lagers while you drool over Mounts Bay and St Michael’s Mount, and since the addition of a huge glassfronted extension, you don’t have to rely on blue skies to soak up the scenery. Skip along the south coast to surfy Praa Sands and follow the footprints from the beach into the trendy Sand Bar, where you can clap eyes on jaw-dropping views from the decking or through the long-drop windows. For music fans who want to dance with their toes in the sand, there is nowhere like Cornwall for its diversity of beachside beats and festivals with international headliners. Lusty Glaze, on the

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outskirts of Newquay, hosts a series of Sundowner Sessions throughout summer, where you can catch big names such as Razorlight, The Kooks and Morcheeba. Come winter the live music heads inside Lusty’s beach bar for cosy woodburner sessions featuring some of Cornwall’s much-loved acoustic acts. The Eden Sessions, at the worldfamous Eden Project, are another annual highlight, attracting international superstars like Blondie, Björk and Massive Attack. If it’s big name acts and surfside action you’re seeking, the main event in Cornwall’s festival calendar is Boardmasters – Europe’s biggest surf, skate and music festival. By day watch a world-class surfing competition, then by night rock out to headliners such as The Chemical Brothers, Jamiroquai and Stormzy. Fast growing in popularity is a smaller, newer surfy fest – Perranporth’s Tunes in the Dunes – where Primal Scream and KT Tunstall have taken to the stage. Not all festivals are focused on partying all night – there are plenty of unique events that twist family-friendly entertainment into the programme. The newest of these is the Great Estate Festival, held in the picturesque grounds of Scorrier House and described as a ‘the most rambunctious garden fête’. What with high tops, camel racing, hot air balloon rides and a silent disco in the woods, it’s a riot of

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ADOBESTOCK; ALEX RAWSON/DAN LANDSBURGH/VISIT CORNWALL; ST AUSTELL BREWERY

NIGHTLIFE

family fun that spins throughout the day and night. Cornwall’s most established garden party with a twist is the Port Eliot Festival – a quirky, fun and creative gathering on the banks of the Tamar, where you can rub shoulders with literary stars, rock stars and foodie wizards, enjoy outdoor cinema, go wild swimming or let your hair down and dance. A much smaller affair is the Rock Oyster Festival, which lures foodies and music fans to a summer party beside the Camel Estuary. Meanwhile the Little Orchard Cyder And Music Festival is not only big on cider and sea shanties, but also hosts some of the best music bands emerging in the UK. Of course, after an active day at the beach or visiting Cornwall’s cultural gems, you might prefer to give the party life a miss and hunker down by the fire in a cosy inn with a pint of local ale for company. Enveloped in the romantic landscape of the Helford Passage, the 300-year-old Ferryboat Inn is one of the most atmospheric waterside pubs to sip locally-brewed beers, dine on farm-to-fork food and watch the boats putter to and fro on the estuary. Equally alluring is the Pandora Inn, tucked away on Restronguet Creek along the River Fal, where you can arrive by boat or road and take a seat on the pontoon – crabbing line in one hand, pint in the other – or find a cosy nook inside the historic 13th-century inn and peek out at the view. If you like a drinking hole with a bit of history, there are plenty in Cornwall to choose from. The Old Inn & Restaurant in St Breward is Cornwall’s highest inn and has been a meeting place for travellers crossing Bodmin Moor since the 11th century, when it provided shelter for monks building the neighbouring church. The 12th-century Victoria Inn, in Perranuthnoe, is one of the oldest pubs in the county, where you can kick back by the log fire or tuck into award-winning food cooked by a Raymond-Blanc trained chef. Another of Cornwall’s oldest pubs is the iconic Sloop Inn in St Ives, which opened its doors in 1312. Take a seat on one of the benches spilling out to the harbour, or find a pew under the low beams and sip one of the cask ales. Hike 10 kilometres along the South West Coast Path and you’ll deserve a pint of real ale under the low granite ceilings at the Tinners Arms in Zennor – a place that DH Lawrence once called home and an idyllic 13thcentury inn far from the trappings of modern life. The Old Success Inn, nudging the pearly sands of Sennen Cove, harks back to the 17th century when fishermen came here to share the profits from their catch. Amidst the sepia prints and nautical memorabilia, these days’ it’s coast path hikers, beach goers, dog walkers and surfers that huddle around the bar to fuel up on hearty pub food and St Austell Brewery beers. Like much of Cornwall, many of the pubs have had a makeover to meet the demands of modern-day tourists. One of Falmouth’s most historic pubs, the quayside Chainlocker, has recently re-opened after a

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multi-million pound makeover, moving the bar and restaurant to the upper level so you can really make the most of the harbour views. A lick of contemporary style hasn’t detracted from the traditional core of The Driftwood Spars in Trevaunance Cove, where exposed beams, log fires and an onsite microbrewery make this one of the most popular places to eat and drink in St Agnes. Similarly, the Queen’s Hotel in St Ives transformed itself from a local boozer to a stylish gastro pub, now bedecked in Cornish art, vintage furniture and comfy sofas, and serving cask ales and fine wines alongside gourmet food sourced from Cornwall’s farms and fishermen. Perhaps the finest example of a drinking den that marries the rustic Cornish lifestyle, chic style and sheer good taste is the Gurnard’s Head, hidden off the beaten track between St Ives and Land’s End. Whether you stomp straight off the coast path with a dog in tow, or arrive in convoy with family and friends, you’ll feel at home in this friendly inn on the cliffs of West Cornwall. You’ll find Cornish ales on tap, plenty of unusual wines and an upmarket menu packed with fish, game and other produce plucked from the surrounding coast and countryside. You can even stay over and rest your head if you drink too much to get home from the ends-of-the-earth location. l

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“FOR MUSIC FANS WHO WANT TO DANCE WITH THEIR TOES IN THE SAND, THERE IS NOWHERE LIKE CORNWALL FOR ITS DIVERSITY OF BEACHSIDE BEATS AND FESTIVALS”

WELCOME TO CORNWALL


10

THINGS YOU MUST DO!

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10 THINGS

[01] EXPERIENCE EDEN

ADOBESTOCK; HUFTON+CROW/EDEN PROJECT; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; VISITENGLAND/ADAM GIBBARD/MATTHEW JESSOP/VISIT CORNWALL

The world-famous biomes of the Eden Project need little introduction. Step into a rainforest, explore the Med, get up-close to nature and enjoy all sorts of family events, trails and activities at this unique all-weather attraction. From storytelling to scrumptious Cornish cuisine, there’s something here for all ages.

“AT LOW TIDE YOU CAN CLIMB DOWN 140-SOMETHING STEPS TO THE RUGGED BEACH – THEN REWARD YOURSELF WITH A CREAM TEA AT CARNEWAS TEA ROOMS AFTER THE CALFACHING WALK BACK UP”

[08] ALL ABOARD ON THE RIVER FAL Hop across to the Roseland Peninsula on the scenic King Harry chain ferry, take a river cruise from Falmouth to Truro, or putter into chic St Mawes. Fal River Links runs a network of ferries on and around the River Fal, and with a Fal Mussel Card you can enjoy unlimited travel on all the services.

[02] GO SURFING AT FISTRAL BEACH Many of Cornwall’s pro surfers cut their teeth on the waves at Fistral, and it’s the beach that put Newquay on the map as the UK’s surfing capital. Home to numerous surfing outlets and expert instructors, there are few better places to get to grips with the art of wave riding and immerse yourself in the county’s surfy lifestyle.

[05] TAKE THE TRAIN TO ST IVES Hop aboard one of the most scenic train lines in Britain and gaze out at gob-smacking coastal landscapes that have lured artists to this fishing village since the 19th century. Disembark beside Porthminster Beach, then take a spin around this arty town, taking in the famous Tate St Ives, Barbara Hepworth’s Sculpture Garden and the Leach Pottery.

[03] PLAY LIGHTHOUSE KEEPER ON THE LIZARD Set foot on the tip of the Lizard Peninsula and you’re on the most southerly point of mainland Britain. As well as witnessing the stunning seascapes where seals and basking sharks often make an appearance, you can also visit the Lizard Lighthouse Heritage Centre to climb the tower, sound a foghorn, track ships and learn Morse Code.

[06] CLIMB CORNWALL’S HIGHEST PEAKS Head to the wild territory of Bodmin Moor to scale Cornwall’s two highest peaks – Rough Tor (400m) and Brown Willy (420m). It’s a relatively easy walk across rolling moorland littered with prehistoric remains, and from the summits you can enjoy far-reaching countryside and coastal views.

[09] CAST AWAY TO ST MICHAEL’S MOUNT Walk in the footsteps of pilgrims and a legendary giant when you cross the causeway to this sea-bound castle. On the island you can hunt for the giant’s stone heart, stand in the firing line of bygone battles and explore sub-tropical gardens. Wait for the tide to come in and hop back to the mainland by boat or amphicraft.

[07] EXPLORE A WORLD HERITAGE LANDSCAPE Cornwall’s rich mining past has won much of its landscape World Heritage status, putting it on a par with the Taj Mahal and the Egyptian pyramids. In West Cornwall you can clap eyes on the Atlantic-lashed engine house at Botallack mine and step into a miner’s shoes with an underground tour at Geevor Tin Mine.

[10] CYCLE FROM COAST TO COAST Freewheel through World Heritage landscapes as you follow 15 miles of disused mineral tramways from coast-to-coast. From Portreath on the Atlantic coast to Devoran in the south, this easy off-road cycle route wends through historic mining, woodland and coastal territory, all the way to the traditional creekside watering hole of Devoran’s Old Quay Inn. l

[04] FEEL DWARFED BY NATURE AT BEDRUTHAN STEPS Britain’s equivalent of Australia’s Twelve Apostles, at wew a row of towering granite stacks rise from the sand. Most visitors take snaps of these rock giants from the cliff tops, but at low tide you can climb down 140-something steps to the rugged beach – then reward yourself with a cream tea at Carnewas Tea Rooms after the calf-aching walk back up.

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TRAVEL

GETTING HERE AND GETTING AROUND! Getting to, and around, this region couldn’t be easier

THOMAS QUACK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

GETTING HERE

easier. The main railway line to Penzance links to a network of branch lines: Hop off at Liskeard to chug along a wooded valley to Looe; at Par to access Newquay’s surf beaches; Truro to reach maritime Falmouth, and St Erth for the scenic coastal railway to St Ives. For train information and timetables contact Great Western Railway. Cornwall can also be reached from the UK’s major cities by a number of bus and coach companies, including National Express and Megabus. Travelling time by coach is around 7-8 hours from London/Birmingham to Truro.

BY CAR Despite being the south-westerly tip of mainland Britain, Cornwall is easy to reach by car – and is less than five hours’ drive from London. The county’s main road is the A30; met by the M5 at Exeter and now dual carriageway almost the entire length of the county. If you’re travelling to south east Cornwall, take the A38 from Exeter instead, arriving via Plymouth and Saltash. For a more a scenic route along Cornwall’s North Coast, take the A39 – accessible from junction 27 on the M5, or via the A395 between Launceston and Camelford. During peak times the routes into Cornwall can become extremely congested, so it’s best to travel overnight or early in the morning.

BY AIR Fly into Newquay Airport on a growing network of flights from London, Ireland, Germany, Spain and Portugal. Onward travel is hassle-free with onsite car hire facilities, an airport-based taxi firm and links to public transport. The airport also offers year-round connections to the Isles of Scilly. For flight routes and timetables check out www.cornwallairportnewquay.com. p67

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT With direct trains from London, Bristol, Bath and Exeter, getting to Cornwall by train couldn’t be

“DESPITE BEING THE SOUTH-WESTERLY TIP OF MAINLAND BRITAIN, CORNWALL IS EASY TO REACH BY CAR – AND IS LESS THAN FIVE HOURS’ DRIVE FROM LONDON”

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A road B road Railway and station City / Town Airport Administrative boundary 0

2

0

4 4

6 8

8 12

10

12 Miles

16

20 Kilometres

Morwenstow

Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2017

Kilkhampton A39

Flexbury

TORRIDGE

STRATTON

BUDE

Cambeak

Week St Mary

Middle Crackington B3263

Boscastle

B3254

Tintagel Head

Tintagel

B3266 A39

Start Point

Delabole Port Isaac Pentire Point

Trevose Head

Polzeath Trevone PADSTOW A389

B3276

NEWQUAY A392

Indian Queens Goonhavern

Perranporth St Agnes

A30(T)

Godrevy Island

Connor Downs

ST IVES Gurnard’s Head B3306

A3071

NEWLYN

A30

Sennen

Land’s End

B3315

Treen

A393

Marazion

PENZANCE Mousehole

Trewithian

St Mawes Nancegollan FALMOUTH Constantine Godolphin Cross A394 Mawnan Smith HELSTON

Porthleven

M o u n t ’ s B a y

PENRYN

B3297

A39

Mawgan St Keverne

A3083 B3293

Mullion

Manacle Point

Coverack

Mullion Cove

Black Head

Lizard Lizard Point

Tregony

Malpas A3078

Troon B3303

A390

TRURO

REDRUTH CAMBORNE

Carbis Bay Hayle

St Just

Illogan

A30(T)

Helland

Mevagissey Gorran Haven Dodman Point

LISKEARD Duloe

B3359

SALTASH

A387

Pelynt

FOWEY Polruan

A388

Landrake

LOSTWITHIEL

Gribbin Head

Callington

A390

Doublebois

A390

ST AUSTELL

B3273

Treburley Bray Shop Kelly Bray

B3254 A38(T)

WEST DEVON

Gunnislake

Upton Cross

Bodmin Moor

Par

Ladock

B3257

BODMIN

Shortlanesend

B3301

Bolventor

C O R N W A L L

A39

Portreath

Michaelstow

St Lawrence Tregonetha A30(T) St Columb Major A391 Bugle Roche

B3275

LAUNCESTON

Tregadillett

Polyphant

B3266

A389

A395

A388

St Endellion

A39

Trenance

Ligger or Perran Bay

Camelford St Teath

WADEBRIDGE

St Merryn Porthcothan

Kelsey Head

B3314

Treblary

Widegates B3247

LOOE Polperro

Looe Island

Crafthole

TORPOINT

Whitsand Bay

Millbrook Rame Head


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TRAVEL

GETTING AROUND BY CAR The easiest way to explore the nooks and crannies of Cornwall is by car. There are car hire outlets countywide – the biggest selection based at Newquay Airport and in Truro. The A30 links the entire length of Cornwall from Launceston to Land’s End, but it’s worth exploring via some of the coastal roads such as the A39 (dubbed the Atlantic Highway). If you want to share lifts to reduce traffic congestion and travel costs, check out Carshare Cornwall. BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT Cornwall’s towns, villages and visitor attractions are linked by an extensive network of buses, most of which are run by First Kernow. A few smaller operators and community buses serve specific areas such as West Penwith. As well as the main train line to Penzance, there are several railway branch lines to Cornwall’s coastal towns including Looe, Falmouth, Newquay and St Ives. For timetables, maps and information check out www.travelinesw.com.

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ALTERNATIVE MEANS If you’re planning to visit Truro, Padstow, St Ives, Falmouth or Looe, ease your journey by using the Park and Ride schemes. Park at Lelant Saltings to enjoy a scenic rail journey to St Ives, or leave the car in Penryn and float to Falmouth on the passenger ferry. The county’s most extensive ferry network is Fal River Ferries, which links a number of coastal towns, villages and attractions from Truro and Falmouth to the Roseland Peninsula. A Fal Mussel Card offers unlimited travel on all services. Other passenger ferries include crossings from Padstow to Rock; Fowey to Polruan ferry; Mevagissey to Fowey; Calstock to Cotehele, and Penzance to the Isles of Scilly. If you prefer to explore on two wheels, hit The Mineral Tramways cycle trails, which include the coast-to-coast route between Portreath and Devoran. Even more popular with cyclists is the Camel Trail, following 18 miles of disused railway from Padstow to Bodmin. The best way to experience the coastal scenery is on foot along over 250 miles of South West Coast Path, which offers sections to suit all levels of walkers. Or why not cross the county on the 27-mile ancient pilgrims’ route of The Saints Way? l

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BUSINESS

WE’RE OPEN FOR BUSINESS! Cornwall is a county which increasingly works for everyone

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In a place where the natural environment is so entwined with the lifestyle, it’s little wonder that the renewables industry is booming in Cornwall. The Wave Hub and Hayle Marine Renewables Business Park aim to drive innovation in energy technology and cement the UK’s position as a global leader in the fast-growing sector of offshore renewable energy. The Wave Hub already operates the world’s largest marine energy test site 10 miles off the north coast of Cornwall. The lynchpin of the county’s economy is still tourism – and business is booming. Cornwall is firmly established as one of the UK’s favourite holiday destinations, making boutique accommodation and well-honed hospitality in demand in every season. Whether you’re a sommelier, chef or hotelier, it’s possible to fund an enjoyable and profitable lifestyle from the increasingly moneyed stream of holidaymakers that flock here year round. If you’re not ready to sever ties to an upcountry career, it’s even possible to marry beach life and city life and have the best of both worlds. A growing number of residents in Cornwall work a four-day week in high-flying city jobs and decamp to the beach life on weekends. If you can do the bulk of your work remotely but need occasional contact with city clients, you can ditch your city base, shake the sand from your toes after a morning surf, fly to London for a lunch meeting and be back in time for a sundowner on the beach. Whatever your job or aspirations, it really is a pleasure doing business in Cornwall. l

ave you ever heard of the word ‘Arbejdsglæde’? It’s a Danish word that basically translates to ‘work joy’. Which, unless you are doing the job of your dreams in perfect harmony with an enviable lifestyle, aren’t often two words that are put together. However, since the advent of super-fast broadband and the flexing of the career landscape to meet the needs of remote working, entrepreneurial spirit and independent businesses, Arbejdsglæde is an entirely possible concept when you live and work in Cornwall. With the help of modern technology, Cornwall has shed the nine-to-five work day and made business mould around beach life. Whether you’re an interior designer, a B&B owner or a builder, you can slip from your wetsuit and your business suit according to the tides and work demands. With businesses in Penryn working with NASA and Hollywood, it’s evident that Cornwall’s location isn’t preventing local enterprises having an impact on the global stage. The growth of Falmouth University has undoubtedly contributed to the intellectual capital of the county. Over £100 million in funding has transformed the campus into one of the UK’s leading creative hubs, with a groundbreaking Innovation Centre that is focused on sustainable design and digital economies. Gylly Computer Services is just one of over 40 businesses that have thrived as a result of relocating to the business acceleration centre. In two years the company has doubled in size and created more high-value jobs that have boosted the local economy.

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PROPERTY

IF YOU’RE PLANNING TO STAY LONGER... The allure of Cornwall will have you begging for more – which is why more people are relocating and buying second homes here

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staycations across the country, with Cornwall repeatedly topping the list of the UK’s best holiday destinations. By all means checkout the seaside hotspots of St Ives, St Mawes and Padstow, but you’ll get more for your money in up-and-coming Hayle, Wadebridge or Newquay, all of which boast the premium Cornish qualities of beaches, foodie credentials and an enviable maritime lifestyle within a pebble’s throw of the more expensive locations. If you’re looking for a property to run as a holiday let, for the best return you want to ensure you choose something with a unique selling point, within easy access of popular attractions and the coast – after all, the beach is still Cornwall’s biggest pulling point. You also need to factor the higher rates of stamp duty for second homes and buy-to-let properties into your budget. But with banks failing to offer investors much in the way of satisfactory returns, buying an income-generating holiday home might be a good alternative. Finding your dream home couldn’t be easier, with a proliferation of expert companies such as Unique Home Stays and Cornish Gems, offering a service to seek out your luxury second home, and run all aspects of it – from the maintenance to fully-managed holiday lettings – in your absence. Which makes owning a second home hassle-free. Whether you fancy a pad for the occasional beach break or to swap your life for a permanent beach break, this is the optimum time to invest in Cornwall. l

t’s no secret that Cornwall is one of the most popular places in the country to buy a second home. Since the advent of super-fast broadband and the freedom to work remotely, plenty of folk have gone the whole hog and swapped their city homes for a permanent dwelling in this land of sandy beaches, vibrant maritime towns and stylish coastal living. And why not, when you can keep in touch with the fast-paced world and enjoy a successful career while keeping your feet firmly by the beach? No longer out on a limb and requiring hours of travel to reach, Cornwall is a cinch to get to by rail, road and air. Hop on a train from Paddington, fly into the heart of Newquay from London or whizz down the widened highway of the A30: whether you want to come down for a weekend break or need to swap your surfboard for an upcountry board meeting, getting to and from Cornwall has never been smoother or faster. The good news is, that while the economy and the property market are somewhat unpredictable, the property forecast in Cornwall is going from strength to strength. Whether you are looking for a holiday property or a family home, a woodland cottage or a coastal apartment, a millionaire mansion or a budget townhouse, the range of properties up for grabs is immense. Demand for holiday accommodation is burgeoning, with terrorism threats and our departure from the EU propelling more and more visitors to swap the Costas for Cornwall. There’s been a boom in self-catering

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www.michaelspiers.co.uk 82 LEMON STREET, TRURO, CORNWALL TR1 2QA TEL: 01872 272 264 THE SOUTH WEST’S LEADING RETAILER OF FINE JEWELLERY AND WATCHES, INCLUDING:

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Welcome to Cornwall  

Unique, beautifully designed, high-quality visitor guide, which is available in leading hotel bedrooms. For those enjoying a break, or stayi...

Welcome to Cornwall  

Unique, beautifully designed, high-quality visitor guide, which is available in leading hotel bedrooms. For those enjoying a break, or stayi...