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Key DRIVERS

T im W a l k e r P ro d u c t I n f l u e n c e T he L o o k C hl o e C o o p e r O ve r v i e w


From life size dolls to flying saucers Tim Walker’s photography props were standing pride of place at Somerset House for Storyteller the imaginative exhibition at Somerset House.

Tim Walker: Storyteller

Walker’s equally mysterious, enticing and imaginative fashion photography has made him world-renowned. He plays with the world of fairy tales and dreams combining them with a considerate approach to couture to create his photographs. The exhibition included some of his finest works for brands and top publishing houses, Mulberry and Condè Nast respectively.

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Storyteller explores the ideas of childhood through his photography, as often the models are small in size compared to the props and surroundings almost in a child-like fashion. The wonder and complexity of the images are cleverly balanced and still simplistic and honest. These themes inspire the Purity phase of the Optivity trend, focusing on the childlike details and muted tones and colours. Styling of the photo shoots is quintessentially British with a traditional and yet contemporary spin with youthful and innocent detailing’s. This quirky wholesome aesthetic is at the heart of the Purity phase of Optivity.

Childhood Fun youth vision Imagination positivity

images:Tim walker-Storyteller (Somerset House) Kimberley Jacobsz

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P R O D U C T I N FLUENCE Happiness through simplicity is the Key Driver for the Purity phase and this is reflected through product design. Combining technology to really simplified design and use in every day life is key. The functions binge on products will be rejected in the future as consumers demand for simpler more efficient products stripped of excess and of unused functions. Products with raw elements and untreated materials combine with technology to create this new style. The pairing down of packaging and referring back to a more pure and honest way of creating and selling a product, this is evident in Gillette’s packaging project. The Victorian style illustrations are used to demonstrate a nod to the past but at the same time remain contemporary with the choice of typeface, captions and alignment. These design flags are being witnessed all over the product world as consumers demand packaging be simple and at a minimum if it isn’t partially of wholly recyclable. Purity supports primarily a lack of frills, with ideas and products that are quirky and make sense… a brilliant idea that works whilst removing any excesses.

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Images from top left row: Wireflow’, a new project by designer Arik Levy for light manufacturer VIBIA; Knot Pendant Lamp by Vitamin; Sitting Chairs by Lucas Maasen; Tax Forms project by FormNation; Birth certificates by IWANT for Icon magazine; Two dip cups by Up in the air somewhere; French Soap via Alder & Co.; Gillette; christina schou christensen, shaping fluid; Fifty Fifty Projects, Eyjafjallajökull.


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Chloe Cooper: Retro Future Chloe Cooper, a fashion BA(Hons) student from Nottingham Trent University, showcased her final collection at Graduate Fashion Week this year. The Final Collection was developed around the idea of the ‘Retro Future: past predictions for our future development. Full of optimism and ambition, the collection has a bright, playful feel, with clean, flirty shapes and relaxed structures. There is a strong focus on innovative stitch development and combination of yarns’. The shapes were youthful and inspired by the sixties with boxy shapes and shift dresses along with the pastel palette. Chloe’s collection is a driver for the Purity phase; even down to the styling with the childlike innocent feel being emphasised with the ankle socks and sandals. Like Purity she keeps it modern with her contemporary use of textiles

and knit, the geometric prints and clashing shapes nod to the future, in Chloe’s words her ‘Retro Future’. Chloe’s collection could almost be considered as being conservative as she has high necklines and loose fit shapes, this supports the ideas of purity and minimalism. Her collection also has a particularly feminine feel to it, not only by the colour palette but also by the emphasis on the dress and the co-ordinating tops and skirts. She also infuses the retro element by having little accompanying jackets to go with the dresses; this again gives it a more 1960’s feel. On the other hand, the outfits could also be compared to a child’s dolls clothes mainly down to the simple shapes, and mix and match styling.

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Colour Story


Images clockwise from top left: Fifty Fifty Projects, Eyjafjallajökull; HHD_FUN with Aaajiao – Xu Wenkai | Embedded Project; PAOLOERRICO | NOT JUST A LABEL; Lucas Maassen; Alberto Campo Baeza, casa guerrero.

Stone Pastel Blue

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Grey Vivid Green


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P h ase O ne P u r i t y : C o l o u r Optivity is a bright and optimistic trend with depth in its values such as learning and a consideration for design. The Purity phase looks at a more traditional and simplistic way of living to create happiness rather than happiness through gain. This is carried through into the colour palette where a more nostalgic palette is adopted through warped and muted summer shades, simple low impact colours such as stone and grey form the base colours, whilst the trend colours- also muted give the palette it’s summer warmth.

product design for the future and by Tim Walkers photography; the muted nostalgic palette is being spotted already in design and will form the structure of the Purity trend. The childlike hues include powder and salmon pink, honey gold shades with washed out dreamy blues and ocean greens.

The palette is inspired by the colour choices in

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PANTONE 7541C

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PANTONE 454C

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PANTONE 9C

PANTONE 407C

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PANTONE 545C

PANTONE 570C

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FABRIC Story


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RANGE PLAN


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Xu Wenkai Aaajiao

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thecreatorsproject.vice.com

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Omelya Atelier A key reference point for Optivity is OMELYA atelier, the up and coming brand of Kostya Omelya a Ukrainian designer. Omelya’s focus is always on dresses, paying particular attention to the feminine silhouette. Oh and did we mention … he loves a hat or two. The collections are distinctly contemporary with a strong use of cut and shape. The SS13 collection takes hold of the quintessential elements of Optivity from the use of a clean colour palette with inspirational flicks of neon’s and blacks, to the functional almost child like shapes and panels. The garments are free of any embellishment and excessive over texturised fabrics, paling back to a simpler aesthetic thus increasing simplicity. Design details are key at Omelya, function and simplicity combined. Pleats and splits are mixed with panels and cut outs to create a sport-max style silhouette. The zips and functional aspects are concealed and the darts sharp and severe. Garments that are not afraid to shout about their construction. In Optivity there is no shying away, clarity

and creativity create a breath of fresh air from ‘fuddy duddy’ draping and excessive applique that the AW12 collections bought. We are heading into a new optic. Did someone say Doll? The advertising campaign has been photographed with a mixture of models and mannequins in expressional poses. The doll like modelling echoes the eccentric youth and fun of the shoot continuing the theme of the collection. Omelya says ‘what the hell’ when it comes to the styling, in this shoot all the rules are broken. Dresses with skirts and trousers, wide leg trousers and slit front dresses it’s all happening within this collection. A kitsch nod comes in the way of neon patent pointed toe stilettos. ‘Boo!’ But wait… the garish shoes clash beautifully with the bold yet simple outfits. Kostya is a new breed of designer taking the doom and gloom out of fashion, that we have seen rearing its ugly head over the past years. A new wave of optimism is coming and Omelya sure is ready… are you?

Image Via omelyaatelier. com/ : SS13 promo shoot


Omelya Atelier

SS13

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Images clockwise from top left: Fifty Fifty Projects, Eyjafjallajökull; HHD_FUN with Aaajiao – Xu Wenkai | Embedded Project; PAOLOERRICO | NOT JUST A LABEL; Lucas Maassen; Alberto Campo Baeza, casa guerrero.

Fashion Forwards Brazil FFW: Fabio Delai & Tavinho Costa


P h ase T wo V i r t u a l : C o l o u r Virtual is the technological arm of Optivity, technology is becoming ever integrated into our lives and as learning comes back to us through Gamification and hacking. Consumers are wanting to customize and hack into their products in the home, technology at one point used to be wooden, it made the leap to the black and silver age and then eventually we were back to black with the plasma screen. Tomorrow is the age of the spectrum, reflected light, clear and glass effects are the way forwards. Flexi screens and outer casing of technology that can have the opacity changed leads the way for a new dimension with regards to technology.

The change in the way we view technology is what influences the colour palette of Virtual, a spectrum of reflected grey shades and glass like blues hues create an almost crystal like palette. The trend accent colours are the bright neon shades of green blue and dusky low glow neon pink that contrasts with the key colour of the trend, which is white. All of the colours are influenced by interfaces and the glow of the screen that is becoming ever more so key to our daily lives.

by taken to another level is that companies are incorporating and examining colour and how they can use this to provide business success. Nike ID recently launched an app that can take a photo of your choice from your Instagram account and then create you a pair of trainers inspired and using the palette from your picture, this is then further customisable. Colour has previously been overlooked but for SS14 it will be a key business opportunity and research about the relationship between the consumer and colour will be integral.

Colour is particularly important to Virtual, as colour is being taken to a new level and interpreted into different areas; this is a driver for this trend. What we mean

B A SE CO LO U R S

PANTONE 7542C

PANTONE 6C

T REND C OL O U R S

PANTONE 657C

PANTONE 5513C

PANTONE 6C

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All images Via Lookbook.nu


Brazil and Luxury Go HANd in hand Brazil, a nation with a population of just under two hundred million is characterized by its rich natural resources and an extraordinary 60% of the Brazilian population are under the tender age of 30. A population with such a large percentage of young people is in no doubt a contributing factor with regards to our increasing obsession with this culturally rich nation.

ENOUGH WITH THE FORMALITIES So what do we know? Brazil is booming…BOOM

BOOM POW As a result of this the middle classes are increasing and make way for the new emerging affluent of Brazil.

This is increasingly effecting the British population… not spotted the start of it yet? Brands are businesses, from high street chain stores to highend beauty lines and where the money is, is where you will find the brands. In order for brands to remain competitive they must cater and adapt themselves to suit the customer. For many centuries the European

and American markets were the brands target market however over the past 20 years the BRIC economies have given way to a new emerging clientele, enter the emerging affluent of Brazil. Has your favourite brand recently become a little spicier? Perhaps its latest advertisement campaign is more colourful? Or features an increasing number of models of different ethnicities? Well you my friend are witnessing the adaption of western brands to cater to the emerging affluent.

* Reader Sighs * Now you see it…

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The key fact that is interesting us about Brazil at this moment in time is that despite growth falling by 4.1% between 2008 and 2010 to 2.2% between 2011 and 2013 in Brazil, that the unemployment rate has also continued to fall. The dismal present does not seem to be affecting its future outlook with companies continuing to hire. Initially suspecting ‘jiggery pokery’ we dug a little deeper and uncovered why this seems to be the case. The key drivers of this phenomenon are the changes in demographics. Brazil’s economy on the street level is doing well, the population is becoming increasingly wealthy, with many watching their wages increase by 10% or more and unemployment is at a record low. Now we know this isn’t reflected currently in the stock exchange so how do they do it? The labour market supply is shifting downwards due to the change in rising premiums for education in Brazil, thus the demand for labour is rising and has already risen considerably. More of the Brazilian population are staying in education or going back to education, say Forbes. There are less people who are able to work; meaning that more jobs are available to the unemployed. The strong labour market is also in itself pushing people into education, as individuals begin to consider the alternatives to working to enable them to ‘move up the ladder’. The Brazilian Institute for Geography and Statistics (IBGE) has collected some astonishing data showing how these shifts have affected the population, with the proportion of those with nine or more years of education compared to those with nine years or less almost doubling in the past decade, from 47.8% in 2004 to 80.8% in 2013. The education premium is clearly keeping the labour supply tight according to Forbes. The other key driver is the fact that Brazil is more so becoming a larger consumer society. Opening up more entry level and mid-level

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roles in retail service jobs, and the general retail and catering sector. The more they consume the more human resources required to serve this growing society of consumers. It is also important to note that at the top end of the labour market engineers are in demand and are able to acquire a higher pay bracket than ever before. With unemployment decreasing it is no wonder that Brazil is giving rise to the emerging affluent but more important is the rise in the middle classes in Brazil. The favelas were once notorious with crime, poverty and occupants had next to no prospects however with unemployment decreasing, more and more of the population are lifting themselves, so to speak, out of the favelas. Their children are staying in education and for the first time, children of the favelas are securing stable jobs, not only in the labour market but also more excitingly as professionals. Ok so more of the Brazilian population are becoming middle class…but what does this mean? And how will it affect consumer trends for Spring 2014? In Britain we are currently facing the squeezed middle pandemic. The recession has launched businesses into re-organising and practising economies of scale as cost saving measures. The middle managers are all but disappearing from the structures of businesses; the workers on the ground and front line are taking on extra roles. So are the employees at the top in order to cap spiralling payrolls that are killing a company’s ability to operate a financially viable and competitive business model. These cost saving measures result in the workers who were previously in comfortable well-paid middle management jobs being made redundant, flooding the country with a wave of professionals who are unable to afford their mortgages and lifestyles, having a huge impact on retail as we know it. It is also important to note that with large numbers of British students graduating every year, the competition for jobs increases year on year


and with proportionally small amounts of new jobs being created every year, Britain is in crisis.

* Reader sheds a tear * Hark…all is not lost. So Britain seems pretty gloomy you’d think for the season of spring summer 2014 however that in fact is not the case. Keep calm and carry on is what sang true in previous times of adversity in Britain and so it will again. This season we look to Brazil for inspiration and look to use it to our advantage, piggy backing on Brazil as it rides the wave of prosperity (Quite a visual). British companies will be looking for ways to cash in on the boom in Brazil. The world cup in Brazil being Britain’s first chance, businesses will be throwing themselves into the Brazilian spirit putting on a brave face and encouraging and influencing us all to join in the celebratory fun. The British consumer was primed in 2012 by the Olympics and the companies know from that, that the British can party (and indeed spend) like they do in Brazil. So you just try to avoid the Brazilian heat on the British streets for 2014… It will get you.

No profession in the world screams ‘I’m filthy rich’ more so than the world of professional football. As 2014 is the year for football there is no doubt that spotlight once again refocuses on luxury, unashamed luxury that is. Hotels, planes, cars, labels, holidays… and watches shall we say. You name it, they’ve got it and that’s just the footballers wives and girlfriends. The new and old money will be in Brazil for the world cup in 2014 and the British media will once again be flooded with our old friends

Dolce & Gabbana. Luxury my friend is back.

‘Hurrrahhhh!’ Scream the millionaires. Britain will do its best to ‘fake it till it makes it’ with a potential increase in what the independent describes as ‘affordable designers’ such as Radley, Ted Baker and Paul Smith. Diffusion lines will be in demand and as we’ve already all ‘cashed our gold’ consumers will be looking for that luxury look product. For what the UK market lack in funds at the present- they make up for in desire for the product.

Back to Brazil The emerging middle classes are fuelling global realignment, in which the middle class centre of gravity is moving eastward. As we discussed before designer labels are now catering to a new market and so it is natural that the goods we buy and that are available to the UK are naturally going to be catering to this emerging market more so than western market. A shift in what the western consumer is used to. This is no more prevalent than in the luxury sector. However it is important to note one key difference… western and eastern culture are two totally different structures. It can be said that the western culture is one of mass. We love that we can go to Mc Donald’s in the UK and get the same meal as we can in the Las Vegas branch, and though we have toyed with the ideas of moving away from the mass and returning to the bespoke its hard for the western world to part with the habit of a lifetime. Literally. The same cannot be said for the Eastern world; there is no such thing as Chindia, (for those slow witted that’s China and India) China, India, Brazil and Russia are all completely different in culture. There is no common link with regards to their

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market tastes apart from the fact that they’re all booming or set to boom. With this in mind, we are seeing an increasing number of companies having to throw away their previous one size fits all policy that they have used for the western market since the beginning of the modern world as we know it. Labels such as Estee Lauder are sinking huge amounts of money into developing products specifically and separately for the Indian, Brazilian and Chinese market. This in itself is a huge undertaking for the brand but it is essential. Brands not willing to adapt to this new market will dry up as there are countless other companies waiting in their shadow to scoop up their business. The western world will see the influence of the East and Brazil increasing rapidly in our dayto-day lives. Embrace it, as the shadow hiding spaces are getting smaller day-by-day.

Global happenings cannot emphasise enough the importance of Brazil in spring summer 2014 and beyond and with the world looking to Brazil over 2014 and then again to 2016. The key thing to take is … Don’t stand by the side-lines, or be a spectator! Jump in, immerse yourself in the Brazilian spirit, the rising Brazilian middle class will effect how and what the UK purchases and wants to purchase so adapt to the Latino vibe and provide your consumer with affordable luxury. Don’t be a bore… be Brazilian- and an affluent one at that!


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S p r i n g _ S u mmer 14 I n s p iration Dolce & Gabbana is at the top of the fashion game alongside the industries notorious big names such as Gucci and Prada. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana as a brand took the world by storm in the 1980’s, which is relatively recent for such an acclaimed fashion house. The Milanese duo first met in 1980 whilst working under Giorgio Correggiari and by 1986 debuted their first collection, which was a roaring success. The pairing, skills wise, combines the strong technical tailoring background of Dolce and Gabbana’s graphic design skills to create highly successful collections year on year, being one of the most commercially successful high end designers brands.


understanding of tailoring. Resulting in the Women want to be seen in Dolce & Gab- brand creating its own modern heritage for bana, it combines artisanship and an un- what it may lack over some of the other big derstanding of the female silhouette to name design houses. create collections with sex appeal whilst empowering females. A tricky balancing Aside from Dolce & Gabbana’s ready-toact that they complete successfully with al- wear focus, they are also enterprising and most every collection. Since the 1980’s the have taken full advantage of their brand flash and fetishism undertones have made name and the luxury price it demands. them a hit with the pop princesses such as You name it… they sell it. Womenswear Kylie Minogue and Beyoncé, they’ve been to menswear and juniorwear to fragrances known to don the clothes both on and off they have extended their brand to cover all the stage and the boys will always remain markets. The youthful diffusion line D&G has also enabled the brand to become their go to designers. more accessible to a new market and to The boys know how to provide flash and introduce the youthful generation to their drama however the brand has transitioned; first taste of the boys. one might even say it has grown up, over the past few years. Dolce & Gabbana are In 2003 the boys ceased their private renow combining sophistication and an im- lationship however have continued their maculate aesthetic showing off their real strong brand name and are continuously

evolving what we know as Dolce & Gabbana. The boys are also dabbling in architecture and the travel industry to watch this space. As the boys never disappoint, their latest ready-to-wear collection was no exception. Domenico and Stefano transpired back to native Sicily for inspiration for this collection. The collection had a grown up resort wear feel, with soft casual tailored dresses, oversized tunics and flowing skirts. The palette was primarily Russian Red emblazoned with Wheat Gold and Pottery Blue but besides the palette were the incredible use of stripes and how they were used to create a sophisticated and yet casual look. The collection was most definitely grown up with no peepholes, straps and buckles and the only gimmick was a flour sack dress.

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This collection embodies how resort wear can become sophisticated and luxurious but still remain vibrant and fun. As we look to Brazil for 2014 the passion of the nation is in no doubt going to heavily influence fashion however you wont see a pineapple or palm tree print in sight. Dolce & Gabbana SS14 combines the luxury and grown up feel and this will be affecting the collections of SS14, we’ve had years of festival and tribal inspired summer wear however the influence of this collection will be pushing us towards the sophisticated aesthetic for 2014.

blouses. The square neckline was used primarily on dresses with slash necklines that gathered at the front for blouses. There were also wide V-necks and crew necks on jackets and tunics. The sleeves were oversized and wide with large openings and often protruded out, this detail stopped the collection from being a total call back to the classic.

The accessories were 1950’s in style with peep toe sling back pumps and raffia wedges, all super commercial styles. Headscarves and oversized bucket bags finished off the super wearable looks with large almost Necklines were one of the key dream catcher style earrings. elements of this collection; all were moderate however the boys used an array of different ones on jackets, dresses and

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The influence of Dolce and Gabbana will be strong for the Luxe-Jet phase of the heat trend and its driven, not by the colour palette but in fact by the shapes and details of the collection and the ability to create grown up sophisticated resort wear that still has the feel good appeal but screams luxury.

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All images Via Lookbook.nu


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