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Discover your parardise onKauai A tropical paradise lying amidst the sparkling blue waters of the Pacific Ocean, Kauai is timeetched mountains, tumbling waterfalls, lush greenery and sun-drenched beaches.

The northernmost of the main Hawaiian Islands, Kauai is just 550 square miles and somewhat circular in shape. Majestic mountain ranges radiate from peaks more than 5,000 feet above sea level in the center of the island. Kauai is known as the Garden Island for is ancient emeraldcloaked mountains, brilliant flowers and greenery of many shades. Mostly rural with no buildings taller than a coconut tree (by law), Kauai’s distinct micro-climates, include hot sandy plains, lush river valleys, temperate foothills, high mountain rainforests and a swamp. While there is plenty to keep even the most active vacationer busy — golfing, surfing,

photo: kerry oda /

hiking, snorkeling and more — Kauai is the low-key and laid back Hawaiian Island. Kauai is the island where Hawaii goes on vacation.



Limahulii Beach / kerry oda

Young humpback whale / kerry oda

c o Jan t e n t s nuary / February 2012


30 publisher

H&S Publishing, LLC Robert M. Self advertising sales

Lori BARRETT 808 635-2415 information systems

Tylar Self

KauaiMagazine Established 1980 KauaiRealEstateMagazine. com is published online h&s archives

12 hanalei to kee beach

like taking a step back in time


22 page kauai farmers markets

An island-wide schedule of farmers markets


Hanalei taro field

westside wonders

sunny skies, sparkling sands and a slow pace

16 kauai farmers markets





Copyright © 2012 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without



of the publisher. Publisher is not responsible for any liability associated with any product or service offered

An island-wide schedule of farmers markets

by advertisers. All editorial

22 splashing in paradise

information is deemed reli-

30 flying in paradise


Kauai’s countless ocean and river experiences.

Discovering Kauai’s hidden wonders from above.

38 touring in paradise

able but not guaranteed. advertising


business offices are located at 4330 Kauai Beach Drive, Suite G21, Lihue, HI 96766.

Experiencing paradise by wheel, hoof, or foot.

Telephone: (808) 212-0100, Facsimile: (808) 822-2312.

44 kauai map

“Printed using recycled paper and environmentally sensitive ink.”

advertiser locator map


January / February 2012

“Invest In Your Dreams”

F. Lee Morey, r,PB (808) 651-6720

Email: Office: (808) 332-7477


GREAT LAND BUYS! MLS 248638 Omao NEW 1.35 acres with privacy. $295,000.

MLS 240279 Stunning Front Row Ocean View Alihi Lani Poipu 2BR/2BA $899,000

MLS 242569 Kalaheo Corner lot, big ocean view. Kekela Makai 11,704 sq.ft. $280,000. MLS 241161 Poipu Estates Halau Rd. #2 29,473 sq. ft. Excellent location. $298,000. MLS 237264 Kalaheo 3.26 acres Puu Rd. Niihau and big ocean views. $550,000. Make an offer. MLS 241157 Poipu Estates Halau Rd. #1 15,177 sq. ft. Excellent location $298,000.


MLS 232325 Kekaha, 8706 Kiowea Rd. Attractive 2BR/2BA in front of the ocean. Build a second house on property, check with county. $595,000

MLS 245093 Poipu, cascading stream into ocean. 4BR/4BA, pool. Ocean views, walk to fine dining. Enchanting. $2,350,000

MLS 216458 Poipu Kapili beautiful ocean views from 1BR/2BA 1,179 sq. ft. $729,000

MLS 248514 Kekaha Gem, 2 story,mother-in-law quarters, 4BR/2.5Ba. Steps to the beach $585,000.

MLS 240474 Poipu, 2231 Pane Rd., 2 homes, 6BR/4BA. Steps to the beach. Vacation Rental. 2,300,000.

MLS 213423 Poipu, Brennecke’s Beach, own a village, 4 homes and a pool. 10BR/6BA 50 yards to the sand. Vacation Rental. $3,800,000

MLS 244104 Omao, 5 minutes to Poipu, gated home on 4 acres with fruit trees, and you can build one more. Check with County. $1,295,000

Photos: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Salt Pond Beach Park

WestSide Wonders Sunny skies, sparkling sands, and a slow pace

On Kauai’s West Side, life seems to move just a little slower. Maybe the pace is leisurely because of the perpetually sunny skies, dry air, the proverbial wideopen spaces, and the small towns that follow an unhurried lifestyle. continued on page 38 8

January / February 2012


808-332-9603 m w

P.O. Box 1197 • Koloa, Hawaii 96756 P

SUNNY WEST SHORE Exceptional home on the bluff above Waimea Town. Striking 180 degree ocean views to Niihau Island and the sunset, also great views of Waimea River. Spacious 4BD/3.5BA tri-level home is open and airy. Redwood siding. Recently painted inside and out. The ground level of the home is ideal for guests with a large living area, bedroom and bath. This peaceful neighborhood consists of only 14 lots and is a 15 minute drive to Kokee Sate Park and Waimea Canyon. $1,350,000.

KAUAI HOME BALI STYLE New 2bd/2ba two story home very well constructed, located in Kalaheo near Kukuiolono Golf Course and Park. The panoramic ocean views are magnificent and the home is on two acres in a private setting. Also, adjacent one acre lot is for sale for $495,000 and home on two acres is $845,000.

TWENTY ACRES OF ESTATE LAND As good as gets on Kauai’s Southland. Very desirable location behind Kukuiolono Golf Course and Park in Kalaheo. Located in a peaceful setting with spectacular ocean view from Poipu Beach to Niihau Island and the sunset. Potential five 4-acre parcels. $3,500,000.

KALAHEO’S BEST Adjacent to the National Tropical Botanical Gardens you will find this 1.46 acre parcel of land in an established neighborhood with large estate homes situated on spacious lots. Architect designed plantation style home plans are included in the sale. Water meter and electrical service to the site. $485,000.

POIPU BEACH DUPLEX One story 2bd duplex in excellent condition. Recently refurbished with an open floor plan, lots of big windows, sliding glass doors, wood and tile floors with large lanais. Beautifully landscaped and maintained 18,000 sq. ft. lot. Two minute walk to Poipu Beach Park. Currently being operated by the owners as a vacation rental. $1,595,000

KAKELA MAKAI OCEAN VIEW Vacant lot with unobstructed ocean and mountain views. Custom building plans by Palmer Architecture are included in the sale. Kakela Makai Subdivision in Kalaheo is located in a desirable location with newer homes, also offers a recreation/fitness center and pool for residences use. $275,000.

continued from page 36

The West Side towns of Hanapepe, Eleele, Kekaha, and Waimea have an old country charm that sets them apart from the rest of the Garden Island of Kauai. The West Side Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

is the place for hiking and camping, bird watching, boating, star searching, and even contemplating the meaning of life. On the West Side, the air is consistently warmer and drier than anywhere else on Kauai. The two major geological features that attract people to the west end of Kauai are the 17-mile long beach that stretches from Waimea to Polihale and the majestic Waimea Canyon in the interior. Where does the West Side really begin? Most agree that the West Side starts at Lawai and Kalaheo, both towns having a decidedly pastoral air. Homes perched on the hillsides possess sweeping views of former sugar cane fields, new coffee groves, and the towns below. Cattle graze in pastures that wrap over and around knolls and gullies. From vantage points in Kalaheo, beyond old cane fields and sugar mills, the endless ocean is visible as are the misty profiles of Lehua and Niihau, privately owned tiny islands located a dozen miles off Kauai’s western shore. continued on page 12 10

January / February 2012

Waimea Canyon

H&S Archives

Far west corner of Poli Hale beach and the rising cliffs of the Napali Coast . continued from page 10 Heading west toward Eleele and Port Allen on Route 50, the road passes through miles of coffee fields, their dark green leaves dotted with fragrant white blossoms or green and red berries, depending on the time of year. Port Allen is home to the marina where most of the fishing and sightseeing boat tours originate. Hanapepe, the self-proclaimed “biggest little town” on Kauai, is a sleepy

hamlet that once bustled with military personnel and plantation workers.Now,the 19th and early 20th century architecture of Hanapepe historic buildings house a number of artist galleries. These and other interesting little shops, boutiques, and restaurants (with hours that vary with the day) are sprinkled along the main street. Don’t miss the swinging footbridge over the Hanapepe River. Friday night is “art night” in Hanapepe. The galleries stay

open late, serving snacks and beverages. Local musicians can often be heard performing. Continuing west, just past Hanapepe, a left turn onto Highway 543 leads to the Salt Pond Beach Park. This spot is popular with picnickers, campers, and windsurfers. Snorkeling is also quite good here. The name of this park comes from the nearby ancient Hawaiian salt beds — once the most productive in the Hawaiian Islands. In the summer, a few families still make salt for home consumption in the traditional way, by evaporation. A natural ridge of rock, which creates an area of relatively calm water, divides the beach. Swimming is usually safe. The ruins of Fort Elizabeth (or “The Russian Fort”) are several miles west of Hanapepe, just past the 22-mile marker. George Scheffer, a German-born doctor working for a Russian company built the fort in 1816. He and King Kaumualii cooked up a scheme to restore the king of Kauai’s kingdom, which he had given to King Kamehameha. Scheffer couldn’t deliver on any of his promises to Kaumualii and was eventually chased off Kauai. Little is left of the fort, but its dirt road leads to the mouth of the Waimea River, where, in 1778, Captain James Cook landed, marking the first contact of the western world with Hawaii. The English explorer was on his way to Alaska in continued on page 14


January / February 2012




goldsmith’s kauai

Beautiful Furniture & Accessories for Your Island Home.

Creating custom designer jewelry on Kauai since 1980.

Home and office furnishings, specialty and name brand appliances. From island, to traditional, to contemporary, to modern, & just everyday furniture … You name it, we’ll find it!

808-822-7766 Open Mon-Sat 9–5:30 • Sun Closed 1624 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa toll free 1-866-OTSUKAS •

Our designers have won numerous statewide competitions and international awards. Sapphires, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, and many other stones combined with exotic Tahitian black pearls. Our designs are created and sold exclusively at our studio.

808 822-4653

dining Bambulei

“On the Road to Adventure”

Bambulei has been selling quality vintage and original clothing side-by-side with Hawaiiana and furniture, since 1996. A favorite of locals and visitors alike, there is something for everyone at Bambulei. We are always adding new items on our website so please bookmark us and check back for more shopping soon!


4-356 Kuhio Highway Kapaa, HI 96746 Closed Sunday; Mon-Sat 10am–5:30pm

4-369D Kuhio Hwy Kapaa HI 96746

Kukui Grove

Verde restaurant

coconut marketplace

Kukui Grove has it all.

Kauai’s first and only New Mexican Restaurant.

A unique open air shopping experience.

An exciting selection of stores, boutiques and eateries. Find a unique island gift or enjoy the best in local entertainment. Hungry? Thirsty? Find what you’re craving at an array of cafés and restaurants. Want to just kick back and surf? Enjoy free wireless Internet access. E Komo Mai! We invite you to experience the best shopping Kauai has to offer. Come see what’s new at Kukui Grove Center, The Place To Be!

Blending authentic New Mexican style food from the Southwest with a twist of Pacific Rim fusion by using local ingredients. Satisfy your Mexican food cravings in a casual local setting.

808 821-1400 Kapa’a Shopping Center 4-1101 Kuhio Hwy, A-3, Kapaa, HI 96746 Open Daily • 11:00am-9:00pm January / February 2012

Discover an array of visitor-oriented shops from island souvenirs to resort apparel, snacks to dinners, pearls to scrimshaw. The atmosphere and people are friendly, helpful and filled with aloha. Come and enjoy free hula shows. On Highway 56 as you enter Kapa’a. Mon-Sat 9am - 9pm and Sun 10am - 6pm. Farmers Open Market Tue and Thurs 9am to 12pm. 13




Poipu shopping village

Jim Saylor jewelers

A touch in Paradise

You’ve found it. And it’s everything you were looking for.

Creators of Unique Fine Jewelry

Quality Bodywork to facilitate healing and relaxation.

Offering a variety of shops, restaurants and retail stores you’ll enjoy. A great place to find gifts, art, clothing or groceries. Hours: 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun. Free Tahitian Dance Shows, Fire Knife Dancing and Live Drumming. Tuesday and Thursday at 5 p.m.

808-742-2831 Complimentary Valet Parking Nightly ursday - Sunday 5:15 p.m. -10:15 p.m.

Designing and creating fine jewelry on Kauai for over 30 years, offering fine custom designs with black pearls, diamonds, and unique settings. An extensive collection of fantastic gemstones and finished jewelry are also available.

Providing both relaxing and therapeutic modalities to soothe the aches and pains caused by long hours of travel, or to relieve the stiffness and soreness that can come from the many activities Kauai has to offer, such as hiking, biking, kayaking and golf.

808 822-3591

(808) 639-0389

Old Kapaa Town 4-1318 Kuhio Highway Kapaa, HI 96746-1656

Serving Kauai for over 20 years. 4-1435 Kuhio Hwy. Ste. 205, Kapaa, HI

continued from page 12 search of a Northwest Passage linking the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans when he stumbled upon Hawaii. Waimea, the next westward town, retains the look and feel of old Hawaii more than any other village on Kauai with its plantation-style homes and quiet streets. Outrigger canoes rest on the beach and anglers fish from the pier with their bamboo poles. The Waimea United Church of Christ, also known as the Waimea Foreign Church, was built in 1846 by missionaries and is one of the oldest churches on the island. The Menehune Ditch is a short distance inland. Early Hawaiians built the ditch to carry water from the river to their taro fields. The rocks for the structure were brought from a quarry six miles distant. The cutting and dressing of the rocks is unusual for Hawaii -- most other rock construction was accomplished by stacking -- indicating that the irrigation ditch was made by Hawaii’s earliest inhabitants who arrived from the Marquesas Islands in about 300 A.D. Waimea is the gateway to Waimea Canyon, the aweinspiring and breath-taking “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” so dubbed by Mark Twain. The canyon is one mile wide, 10 miles long, and over 3,600 feet in depth. The deep gashes in the landscape look like the claw marks of some immense prehistoric creature. Various overlooks are accessible by car and a variety of hikes of differing difficulty await the adventurous. The play of light and shadow on the autumn-hued striated layers of rock is extraordinary. Be sure to continue up Highway 550 two miles past the Kokee Museum to the Kalalau Lookout for an amazing view of 14

the green knife-edge walls of the Na Pali Coast 4,000 feet below. Birds soar on the wind currents over the Kalalau Valley and touring helicopters appear to be little dragonflies in the distance below. Look closely for waterfalls spilling down the sides of the cliffs. Beyond Waimea is the town of Kekaha, the last town on the West Side and the entrance to Polihale, the western most beach on the island. Historians believe that in ancient times this area was heavily populated with grass houses stretching from Waimea to Mana. Mana is a town farther northwest that no longer exists, even though it still appears on some maps. The Pacific Missile Range Facility, a Navy base, houses the last manmade structures on the West Side. From here on, the terrain is nothing but miles and miles of pristine coastline and shimmering white sand beaches. Barking Sands beach, socalled because of the sounds your feet make as you walk along the sand dunes, partially fronts the missile base. The West Side ends at glorious Polihale State Park. When the paved highway ends, a poorly maintained dirt road leads to Polihale Beach. The sand dunes can rise up to 100 feet. Polihale is a favorite of local surfers and fishermen. Be forewarned that there is no lifeguard, so take the utmost care if you dare brave the ocean waters here, because swimming is extremely dangerous due to multiple and much stronger-than-you rip currents. Having come this far, no one should miss the legendary West Side sunset. Watching the melting of the sun into the sea over the island of Niihau in the distance may well be your most romantic and memorable moment on beautiful Kauai. w

January / February 2012

JOANIE STEINER, R, BIC 808 639-7653 (SOLD)

Kauai Farmers Markets


Beautifully remodeled Nihi Kai Villas 2bd/2ba condo with both ocean and mountain views. Just steps from Brennecke’s Beach, this condo has it all, Chef’s Kitchen, Newer Furnishings, over 1,200 sq. ft. of living and more! Offered at $798,000 (FS)


Hanalei Saturday Market Hanalei 9 AM - 1:30 PM Stephanie Struble, (808) 826-1011 PO Box 822, Hanalei, HI


Kauai Community Market (Kauai Community College Campus) front parking lot across from Grove Farm 10 AM - 1 PM Melissa McFerrin (808) 337-9944


Manualoha, 1bd/1ba next to the greenbelt. Short stroll to Grand Hyatt or Brennecke’s Beach. Nice interior. Ready to move in or keep in its current active vacation rental program. Best pool location in Poipu Kai plus plenty of covered parking. $397,000 (FS).


Kekaha Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Elepaio Road, Kekaha - 9 AM Cora Asuncion, Phone: (808) 742-1834


Kukui Grove Shopping Center Lihue 3 PM - KMart parking lot


West Kauai Agricultural Association 8 AM Poipu Road and Cane Haul Road Poipu, HI


Situated on over an acre of land and located within the upscale community of Koloa Estates. This property has it all; Location, Views, Pool, Fabulous Curb Appeal ... and more. Listed for $1,695,000 (FS). Listing Agent is an Owner of the Property.


Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen) (Sunshine Markets) Maluhia Road, Koloa at Noon Branch Harmony, (808) 322-0718


Coconut Marketplace - 9am - noon


Cute 3bd/2ba home on a half acre of land in upcountry Kalaheo. You will love the peace and quiet but you are only about ten minutes to Poipu Beach. Great Opportunity. $499,000 (FS)


Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei Waipa, Hanalei - 2 PM


Kalaheo Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Papalina Road off Kaumualii, Kalaheo - 3 PM Matilda Adams at the site


Kapaa New Town Park (Sunshine Markets) Kahau Road, Kapaa - 3 PM Nancy Blalock, (808) 822-5887


This beach bungalow was built in early 1940 and it has been beautifully updated with Semi-Professional Stove, Stainless Appliances, Wood Flooring and Fully Furnished. A must see!! (Listing Agent is part Owner) Listed for $995,000 (FS)


Hanapepe Park (Sunshine Markets) Old Hanapepe Town 3 PM Cora Asuncion, (808) 742-1834



Kilauea Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Keneke off Lighthouse Road, Kilauea - 4:30 PM Ben Ferris, (808) 822-1712

A home with 3bd/3.5ba, ocean & mountain views. This Koloa Estates property is situated on 1.24 acres of land, 2,456 sq. ft. of living and it comes with transferable rights to the amenities package at Kukui‘ula. Listed for $1,097,000 (FS)


thursday Coconut Marketplace 9am - noon


Vidinha Stadium (Sunshine Markets) Hoolako Road, Lihue 3 PM Cora Asuncion (808) 742-1834

January / February 2012


January / February 2012

Photos: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Splashing in Paradise Splashing Splashing

A trip to the Garden Island of Kauai is not complete without some time spent in, on, or under the water. The Pacific Ocean’s turquoise waters surrounding the island and Kauai’s sparkling clear inland streams and rivers beckon whale watchers, anglers, boaters, divers, surfers, and just beach goers. The dilemma may be what to dive into first.


Kauai's countless ocean and river experiences January / February 2012

Whale-watching cruises give you an up-close and personal encounter with these magnificent mammals ...

January / February 2012 23

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography / H&S Archives photos

Above: Snorkeling and diving around Kauai can hold some fascinating surprises, like this Hawaiian green sea turtle. Below: Kayaking on the Wailua River is one of the most popular activities.


January / February 2012

Photo: chris turner / napali riders

Maybe catching some whale watching will fill your day on Kauai whale-watching cruises A whale-watching ocean tour is an intimate way to experience the awesome Humpback Whale and enjoy the variety of Kauai’s beautiful landscapes from an off-island perspective. Every fall, Humpback Whales leave their Alaskan feeding grounds to journey to the waters of the Hawaiian Islands to sojourn for the winter, mate, birth, and nurse their young. (Whales think that Hawaii is romantic, too!) Whalewatching cruises give you an up-close and personal encounter with these magnificent mammals from about November to March, when Humpbacks are most prevalent. You can choose to whale-watch from aboard catamarans, zippy rubber zodiac rafts, cruise vessels, and sail boats. Some tour companies offer dual-powered (motorized and sailing) catamarans for snorkeling, whale watching, and sunset cruises. Some provide the more extreme rigid-hull zodiac inflatables. Be sure to bring a camera. A waterproof disposable camera is a good idea, as well as a towel and an extra set of dry clothes, because you will get wet. Binoculars will help with closer observation of whale activity. For best viewing with binoculars, use 8x40 or 7x50 magnification. If you don’t have sea legs, consider taking nonprescription or homeopathic motion sickness prevention medication before getting on any ocean craft. Hawaii winter wave swells can be immense and the sea ride can get quite bouncy. Whales abound in the waters all around Kauai, putting on a show 26

with playful behavior such as fin slapping, lobtailing (slapping the tail fluke), and breaching (jumping out of the water). Don’t be surprised to see a school of Spinner dolphins, traveling in parallel pairs along your tour boat, rhythmically leaping out of the sea. Baby dolphins flip themselves into the air with abandon alongside their parents. You may also spot albatross and Boobies (birds which nest and hatch in the caves of the Na Pali cliffs). snorkeling, diving, tubing, and swimming Beneath the kayaks’ paddles, the surfboards’ swooshing fins, and the touring catamarans’ bouncing pontoons, lives a cool, quiet blue world that belongs to Kauai’s abundant sea life. Diving and snorkeling tour operators provide instructions on how to use their equipment and even how to get great photographs and videos of your sea adventures. Some of the best snorkeling locations are: Koloa Landing; Lawai Beach; Poipu Beach Park; Lydgate Park; Tunnels Beach; and Kee Beach. Grab a snorkel, mask, and flippers for an afternoon, and enter Kauai’s enchanted underwater world. “Tubing” is a unique experience. Plan to get wet. Tubing takes you on a guided tour through jungles and tunnels using former sugar plantation irrigation waterways while you “float on air,” relaxed on an inner tube. Tubing is an effortless way to tour some of the island’s otherwise inaccessible areas.

January / February 2012

H&S Archives photos

Poipu Beach Park surfing Surfing, boogie boarding, kite-surfing, and windsurfing are popular water sports on Kauai. If you have a favorite board, you can check it as airline baggage (for an extra fee) or you can rent gear on island. Key spots for surfing include: Polihale; Major’s Bay at Barking Sands; Davidson’s at Kekaha; Pakalas; Poipu Beach; Lawai Beach (also called PKs and Acid Drop); Shipwrecks; Nawiliwili Harbor; Hanalei Bay; Tunnels; and Cannons. Check with local lifeguards and surfers for a report on conditions and be aware of dangerous currents, increasing swells, and rip currents. Windsurfing/kite-surfing spots include: Salt Pond; Mahaulepu; Anini Beach; Hanalei Bay; and Y-Camps (YMCA at Haena). For local wind and surf conditions, call (808) 245-3564 or 245-6001. kayaking Are you ready to dip your paddle in clear fresh water fed by sparkling waterfalls? Or would you rather explore sea caves, cliffs, and waterfalls and then snorkel in a secluded bay or lagoon amid tropical fish? Or both? Then a kayaking tour is the perfect activity for you. Millions of years of erosion and weathering have created more plains and rivers on Kauai than on any other Hawaiian island. Kauai’s six rivers are the only navigable rivers in Hawaii: Waimea; Hanapepe; Huleia; Wailua; Kalihiwai; and Hanalei. Via river kayaking, you can discover tropical rainforests, woods, and swampy jungles amidst a profusion of colorful flowers and butterflies. Most kayak tour operators offer waterfalls tours combining a perfect blend of paddling, hiking, swimming, and picnicking at places like Secret Falls up the Wailua River. fresh-water fishing Anglers may be surprised to learn that freshwater fishing for trout and bass on Kauai’s rivers, ponds, streams, and reservoirs is remarkable. You can trout fish at Kokee State Park (on Kauai’s west side) in designated streams, reservoirs, and “ditches.” Trout fishing season begins with a 16-day period in August and continues on weekends and holidays through September. Large-mouth bass, small-mouth bass, and the exotic South American peacock bass have been caught in Kauai’s 28

reservoirs. Fishing licenses are required and available online at http:// For more information, call the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Aquatic Resources at (808) 274-3344. deep-sea fishing If you are hooked on deep-sea fishing, both exclusive and shared charter trips are available. Shared charters reduce your cost, but fish caught on shared trips are divided among passengers. Excursions can vary from several hours long to up to two-day overnight adventures to remote fishing spots around the island. On these exciting excursions, you fish for ono, billfish, ahi, mahi-mahi, and more. For fishing, kayaking, snorkeling, diving, surfing, sailing, whalewatching, Kauai is happy to bathe you in multiple water sports. Whatever ways you choose to get wet – in, on, or under the water – the experience is bound to be therapeutic in the magical waters surrounding Kauai. W

Experience Kauai by Water through these friendly providers: Blue Dolphin Charters 335-5553 Holo Holo Charters 335-0815 Kauai Sea Tours 335-5309 Kayak Wailua 822-3388 Na Pali Riders 742-6331 Kauai Water & Wave Tour companies online: In the water (diving, snorkeling, surfing, wind surfing): On the water (boating, cruises, fishing charters, kayaking, sailing, whale-watching):

January / February 2012

Photos: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Flying in Paradise Kauai is blessed with wild, untouched natural beauty unlike anywhere else on earth, much completely inaccessible except by air. Ninety percent of the island is not accessible by land vehicle, and 70 percent is inaccessible by foot. Flying tours provide panoramic views of the island’s visual treasures, among them, Manawaipuna Falls, a location for Jurassic Park, the countless cascading falls of Waialeale Crater, and the famous Napali coast, with its verdant, razor-thin cliffs.


Discovering Kauai’s Hidden Wonders from Above

January / February 2012

Left: Hanalei Bay Above: Limahuli Beach

One of the main reasons visitors choose Kauai as their vacation destination is the island’s incomparable natural beauty.

January / February 2012 31

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Tunnels Beach A trip around the island by air helps visitors understand the geography and decide which sides of the island they want to explore further. From the air, a passenger observes that Kauai is a mini-continent with micro-climates ranging from desert on the West Side, to the primeval Alakai Swamp above the emerald Napali cliffs, to the Waimea “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” one of Kauai’s natural wonders. helicopters

You can embark on one of these exciting flightseeing excursions in a number of ways. Helicopter is the most common method with several companies departing from Hanapepe (West Side), Lihue (Central), and Princeville (North Shore). A flight less than an hour in length will feel rushed. Some helicopter tour companies provide noise-canceling headphones with music piped in and narration from the pilot. Some choppers have opening windows so photographers may take pictures without glare. Four and six-passenger helicopters are available. Flights from the Lihue Airport typically start out over Nawiliwili Harbor and the Menehune Fish Pond. According to legend, the pond was built overnight by the Menehune (little

people) who inhabited Kauai before the Polynesians arrived. The helicopters then pass along Haupu Mountain Range, heading inland and westward over Hanapepe Valley, Olokele, and the dramatic Waimea Canyon. Depending on the time of day, the intensity of the sun, and the presence of clouds casting shadows, the variegated colors in the canyon’s layers range from fiery orange and rust red, to glowing copper and bronze, to pastel hues of taupe and terra cotta. The incredible remote valleys of the Napali coast come into view next. Knife-edge ridges separate the lush valleys where the Kalalau, Hanakoa, and Hanakapiai waterfalls plunge hundreds of feet into streams on their way to kissing the ocean. Sea caves and a hanging valley have been carved out of the coastline by the incessant, pounding surf. Leaving Napali, the chopper passes Mt. Makana, the peak portrayed as the island Bali Hai in the movie South Pacific. Below you can see Kee Beach at the end of the road on the North Shore and the beginning of the eleven-mile hiking trail to Kalalau Valley. Kee Beach is also the site of well-known beach scene between Rachel Ward and Richard Chamberlain from the television mini-series the Thorn Birds. The helicopter next soars over Hanalei Valley, the home of rainbows and patchwork quilts of taro fields, passing by more sparkling waterfalls on its way to the center of the island. In the center of Kauai, Mt. Waialeale -- known as “the wettest spot on earth” with over 400 inches of rain annually -- is also the location of Kawaikini Peak, 5,243 feet above sea level and the highest elevation on Kauai. From above, you can spot the “Blue continued on page 34


January / February 2012

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Westside Kauai continued from page 32 Hole,” actually a pool, at the base of Mt. Waialeale, and the result of the convergence of two streams and a waterfall. Flights departing from Princeville soar over the Hanalei Valley, the Napali Coast, and Waimea Canyon. One helicopter company provides tours of the “forbidden” island of Niihau, a private island off the west shores of Kauai (and ancestral home of Hawaiian musician Israel “Iz” Kamakawiwo’ole, known for his medley of “Over the Rainbow” and “What a Wonderful World”). The only other way to see Niihau is by personal invitation. Flights to Niihau leave in the morning from Port Allen in Hanapepe for an excursion to an island untouched by development and crowds. Monk seals laze on the beach where glass balls can still wash up on the shore. Visitors spend a few hours swimming, snorkeling, beachcombing or just relaxing and sunbathing before returning to Kauai. Helicopter tours are operated on a weather-permitting basis and reservations should be made in advance. Some companies will arrange custom tours or photo charters to specific sites. Partly cloudy skies with a little rain shouldn’t keep visitors from taking a flight. A veil of mist behind a pali (cliff) accentuates its razor-sharp edge and, as everyone knows, sun and showers are the ingredients for Kauai’s world-famous rainbows (and sometimes double rainbows).

Experience Kauai by Air through these friendly providers: Island Helicopters 246-0009 Safari Helicopters 246-0136 Kauai Air Tour Companies online: 34

fixed-wing airplanes

A slower, more relaxed adventure by air is via a small, fixedwing airplane or an open cockpit biplane. Fixed-wing air tours are 45 minutes to one hour long and cover the entire island of Kauai. Also available are private charter biplanes, departing from Lihue, which allow customized flights. These planes are built to emulate aircraft from the 1930s and 1940s, but with modern modifications for safety and comfort. Standard, predesigned sightseeing flights of the island from 30 minutes to one hour long are also available.


For those who have dreamed of being able to fly, the Ultralight “Trike” – an open-air two-person engine-powered hang glider -- emulates the experience. The Ultralight is as close to real flying (as in, “I’m a bird!”) as you may ever experience. Combine the thrill of this open-air, wind-in-your-hair ride with Kauai’s spectacular scenery and you have an experience better than any dream. The craft is stable, considered to be safer than hang-gliding, features the latest digital instrumentation and global positioning systems, and is engine-powered. The Ultralight takes off and lands on regular runways and has parachutes onboard for safety. If you’ve seen the movie Fly Away Home, the contraption that Jeff Daniels flies to lead a flock of orphaned Canadian geese home (though not on Kauai) is an Ultralight. For incredible images of Kauai taken from the vantage point of an Ultralight, check out the video, Extreme Kauai, available at

Having traveled to the middle of the Pacific Ocean to find Kauai, experiencing the Garden Island from above can be the literal highlight of a dream Hawaii vacation. x

January / February 2012

These same exquisite landscapes and gorgeous weather are main attractions for non-actors, too. Organized movie

Photos: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Touring in Paradise

tours in mini-busses or a 4x4 off-road van are a great way not only to see the locations of well-known films, but also to experience dramatic parts of the island that would otherwise not be accessible. The more adventurous explorer might choose to chart a path through Kauai’s wilderness in a four-wheel drive or an ATV. If two wheels are your idea of fun, then bicycling down the Waimea Canyon may be your answer. Perhaps a romantic ride on horseback is your fancy. Ecotourism, nature, and culture-based tourism that is ecologically sustainable and supports local communities is gaining in popularity on the island.


Experiencing paradise by wheel, hoof, or foot

January / February 2012

Top left: Wailua Falls Above: Mahalepu coastline

Whatever your mode of transportation, a sightseeing tour of Kauai’s exquisite scenery will be a day to record and remember.

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H&S Archives

Waialeale Crater Kauai is "Gilligan’s Island"? Yes — and Gaynor’s Bali Hai (South Pacific), Jurassic Park’s parkland, George’s jungle, the boss’ "Fantasy Island", Hook’s Neverland, Elvis’ Blue Hawaii, and Ben Stiller’s Tropic Thunder, among others. The island of Kauai has been the setting for dozens of movies and television shows since the early 1930’s — most recently James Cameron’s Avatar. The varied climate and geography provide virtually every type of outdoor scenery imaginable. ON FOOT hiking


Your own two feet are one of the best ways to see the most inaccessible of Kauai’s scenic gems. Dozens of hikes are possible across the island where you’ll enjoy vistas, beaches, waterfalls, and even a swamp that cannot be seen using any other type of 40

transportation. For maps and details covering 34 major hiking trails on Kauai, visit Na Ala Hele, the State of Hawaii Trail and Access Program (administered by the Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Department of Land and Natural Resources) at: http:// Not included on the State’s list (referenced above) is the infamous Kalalau Trail, an 11-mile strenuous coastal walkabout beginning at Kee Beach (at the end of Highway 560) and traveling deep into the Kalalau Valley. Accessible in summer months only, hikers usually take 3-5 days to hike in and out of Kalalau (permit required) which provides unparalleled and stunning views of the Na Pali Coast hanging on the Pacific Ocean. For a shorter, permit-free day trip, trek 2 miles along the coastal Kalalau Trail to the violent surf of Hanakapiai Beach and then another 2 miles inland to the spectacular Hanakapiai Falls, a long, silvery ribbon of water gushing into a large, cool pool, into which you may be happy to throw yourself after the 4-mile fatiguing hike. For permits, call the DLNR at 808 274-3433. After all that trekking, you’ll be famished. The luau, which involves parts of your anatomy other than your feet, is an exotic, South Pacific-style celebration of food, color, style, history, music, and dance. Women in grass skirts, men in face paint, authentic fire dancers (a Samoan convention), and traditional

January / February 2012

H&S Archives

After passing through Poipu, and a dusty, bumpy drive and a short hike, you’ll come to Mahalepu Beach. music showcase the cultures and customs of Polynesia. Many luaus are located on beautiful estates adjacent to beaches with a view of the setting sun over the ocean. A typical luau may begin with a flower lei greeting, followed by a traditional Hawaiian “Imu Ceremony,” the uncovering of the roast Kalua pig from its imu (underground oven). Guests then dine on a delicious feast of Hawaiian-style food. In addition to the pig, luau foods typically include poi (taro), chicken, lomi salmon, haupia or coconut custard, sweet potato, salad, fish, rice and many specialty items, such as laulau (individual packets of fish cooked with the pig) and mahi mahi (a delicate white fish). Of course, no modern luau would be complete without mandatory mai tais. The luau feast is accompanied by an energy-filled, live show of pounding drum rhythms and luau dancers who tell the story of Hawaii through their enchanting hula. Visit www. for the most recent listings of luaus. It’s a good idea to book your reservations well in advance as seating is limited and the most popular luaus sell out early. The luau is an unforgettable experience that tickles the nose with savory scents, entices the palate with delicious flavors, pleases the eyes with colorful entertainment, and bathes the ear in exotic music. Enjoy the enchantment of the luau, Hawaii’s homegrown celebration for a full immersion in Hawaiian culture.

WHEELING movie location tours Five-hour guided and narrated tours trek to many of Kauai’s movie locations. Among them are the remote beach where the pilot for the TV show Gilligan’s Island was shot, the famous, and under-renovation Coco Palms resort, where Elvis’ Blue Hawaii was filmed, and locations for such productions as South Pacific, Raiders of the Lost Ark, Six Days, Seven Nights, and Jurassic Park. Passengers in buses view actual scenes from films and television shows on a TV monitor in surround sound. A nice way to see quite a bit of the island is from the comfort of such a touring van. Tour stops may include Opaekaa Falls, one of Kauai’s many beautiful waterfalls on the East Side of the island. Other sites in the tour include Lydgate Beach Park, the famous Wailua Falls (used in the opening scene of the Fantasy Island TV series), and Hanamaulu Bay, a location for Donovan’s Reef, Voodoo Island, Pagan Love Song, and Six Days, Seven Nights.

4x4 vehicles

Some 4x4 tour companies offer tours in rugged air conditioned off-road vans, while others tour in open-air vehicles. One tour takes you to Kipu Ranch, a spectacular 2,500-acre ranch just south of Lihue, featuring a dramatic grand entrance

January / February 2012 41

lined with majestic Norfolk pines. The ranch has been used repeatedly in Hollywood hits such as Diamond Head and The Hawaiians, both starring Charlton Heston, and Steven Spielberg’s Raiders of the Lost Ark and The Lost World, sequel to Jurassic Park. Other films shot on the Kipu Ranch include Outbreak and the 1997 remake of Mighty Joe Young. Other companies take you on spectacular off-road tours, including to Kokee State Park with panoramic vistas of Waimea Canyon that can only be seen from taking one of these tours.


For those who crave a wilder ride and don’t mind getting dirty and wet, many of the location sites can be toured via ATVs, rolling through streams and into forests over rocks, following the Huleia River, where Indiana Jones took off in his seaplane. ATVs are easy to operate and prior experience isn’t necessary — just a willingness to get splattered from head to toe in Kauai’s classical red dirt. Some providers travel through private estate lands, into the island’s interior, to waterfalls and along mountain ridges. Some trips bounce along old cane roads and tunnels and explore tropical forests and lush jungles.


If pedaling is your preference, you could book a bicycle tour of the Waimea Canyon starting at the crack of dawn. Begin at the rim (elevation, 3,500 feet) of the famed canyon and traverse down 12 miles of winding road skirting this “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” (so dubbed by Mark Twain) all the way to the blue Pacific Ocean. Bikers will experience the gorgeous reds, oranges, and earth tones of the layered canyon walls. Or get off the beaten track with a cruise along the scenic roads of the private Grove Farm Plantation. Pedal past various crops, the now defunct Koloa Sugar Mill, and enjoy some of Kauai’s pristine coastline. There are also several bicycle rental companies for those that wish to explore in a small group or on their own. Maps are available for the best, and safest, places to ride.


Touring Kauai on horseback is a romantic and unique way to see the island’s abundant natural and inner beauty. On the South Shore, saddle-up for a horseback ride along the beautifully sculpted Mahaulepu cliffs. Mosey along sandy white beaches and stop for a swim. On Kauai’s North Shore, take a leisurely horseback ride to gaze upon the majestic emerald mountains of Hanalei (where you just might see “Puff the Magic Dragon”) and the patchwork squares of taro fields in the valley. Then stop for a swim in the pool of a cascading waterfall. No matter how you make the trek — on two wheels, four wheels, two legs or four legs — Kauai’s trails, canyons, cliffs, mountains, beaches, fairways, and rolling hills are waiting for you to put yourself in the picture and explore and capture the inner secrets of the land of the Garden Island. I

Experience Kauai by Land through these friendly providers: Luau

Smith's Tropical Paradise 821-6895 Restaurants

Verde Restaurant 821-1400 Kauai Land Tour Companies online: 42

January / February 2012

Kauai Spotlights Bambulei

Kauai’s number one source for unique collectibles and clothing. A great selection of new and vintage clothing, shoes, jewelry, and accessories, including Hawaiiana, collectibles, art, home decor, and plantationstyle furniture. Phone: 808-823-8641

Blue Dolphin Charters

The highlight of any vacation has to be a Napali Coast sailing tour with Dolphins surfing at the bow of your catamaran, is the ultimate in ecotourism and adventure travel. We also venture to Niihau, The Forbidden Island. Phone: 808-335-5553

An adventure outfitter specializing in premium kayak tours. Explore Kauai’s only navigable river on our fully equipped, stable, comfortable and quality single, double, and/ or triple kayaks. No previous experience is necessary. Phone: (808) 822-3388

Kauai Sea Tours

Voted Best Kauai Boat tours 2004 2007 exploring the Na Pali Coast. Enjoy Dolphins, Whales in season, snorkel sunset tours catamaran or adventure rafts for pure unadulterated fun! Toll Free: (800) 733-7997 Phone: (808) 335-5309

Goldsmith’s Kauai

NaPali Riders

Holo Holo Charters

Safari Helicopters

Island Helicopters

Smith Family Luau

Owned by a team of talented jewelry designers who have created award-winning designs for over 25 years. Sapphires, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, and many other stones combined with exotic Tahitian black pearls. Phone: (808) 822-4653

The memories should last a lifetime, not the trip getting there. We get you to pristine waters and spectacular cliffs of Kauai’s Napali Coast, and the only tour available to the “forbidden island” of Niihau. Toll Free: 1-800-848-6130 Phone: (808) 335-0815

Only Island Helicopters can bring you up close and personal to “Jurassic Falls” on our exclusive 75-85 minute waterfall landing tour. This tour also includes our deluxe circle island tour. Toll Free: (800) 829-5999 Phone: (808) 245-8588

Jim Saylor Jewelers

Designing and creating fine jewelry on Kauai for over 30 years, offering fine custom designs with black pearls, diamonds, and unique settings. An extensive collection of fantastic gemstones and finished jewelry are also available. Phone: (808) 822-3591

Kayak Wailua

January / February 2012

Our raft tour a must do when planning your activities on Kauai. We’re an adventure raft tour company specializing in Zodiac® rafting, snorkeling, and whale watching tours along the Na Pali Coast. We do the whole Na Pali coast. Phone: 808-742-6331

Family owned and operated since 1987 by Preston Myers, retired full commander in the U.S. Navy Reserves. See cascading waterfalls and lush tropical interiors, the Na Pali coast, and Waimea Canyon. Toll Free: (800) 326-3356 Phone: (808) 246-0136

We welcome you to share the traditions of our island home and become part of our ‘ohana. We created our tropical paradise to celebrate the Hawaiian spirit of aloha that he loved and lived by. Phone: 808-821-6895

Verde Restaurant

Kauai’s first and only New Mexican Restaurant. Blending authentic New Mexican style food from the Southwest with a twist of Pacific Rim fusion by using local ingredients. Satisfy your Mexican food cravings in a casual local setting. Phone: 808-821-1400 43

NaPali Riders

The Garden Island


4330 Kauai Beach Drive, Suite G21, Lihue, HI 96766

Fun in Paradise

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