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Inspiration – The Gift (2000) The design concept was inspired by the film ‘The Gift’ (2000, Lakeshore Entertainment). It is a mysterious thriller story about a woman whose gift is fortunetelling. She dreams about the predictions. The atmosphere of these dreams are dark but beautiful, like a fearful fairytale. The trees and their shadows got an important role in the design development just like the colours of these beautiful, double exposure scenes.

The Gift. (2000) Hollywood, USA, Lakeshore Entertainment. 2 March [video:DVD]

Image source. mysticalayna.blogspot.co.uk


Inspiration – Colour Palette The colour palette is based on the hue of the film – The Gift (2000) – when Annie is dreaming. The purples, greys and many shades of blue give a mood that relates to the design concept. The double exposure scenes enable the continous changing of the colours. It creates a melancholic, mistical atmosphere which will reflect on the collection. Sheer fabric would be a good choice; layering, manipulating the textile would give many shades of the orginial colour.

534C

2706C

7447C

8100C

5275C

Image source. mysticalayna.blogspot.co.uk

5265C

276C

James Hare. 8156/41 French dyed chiffon

The Gift. (2000) Hollywood, USA, Lakeshore Entertainment. 2 March [video:DVD]


Inspiration – Moodboard The concept for this project is developed from the initial idea of the film.; the visual atmosphere and the colourways. It inspires the fabric choice, the silhouettes and embellishments. Misty forest photography, double exposure pictures and blurry tree branch patterns are delivering the style to the design development.

Image Source: JNGourley.com, Pinterest.com, Tumblr.com, Flickr.com, Deviantart.com

Image Source: Pinterest.com, Tumblr.com, Flickr.com, Deviantart.com


Inspiration – Micro Trends 21st century romance is an alternative celebration of nature, spirituality, imagination and emotions. It mirrors the revolutionary technologies in the 21st century. Neo-ornamental trend is about organic forms that can be more detailed owing to technological advancements. Fragile beauty is a romantic trend, applied to detailing and trims.

Image source: WGSN.com


Inspiration – Contemporary Ornamental Art Waltraud Janzen: Tree. Hand and machine embroidery on net. Dina Baumane: Nightshades. Leaf skeleton glued and machine embroidered to fabric. Gerda Steiner & JÜrg Lenzlinger: Falling Garden. Carefully constructed installation hanging from the ceiling. HildenDiaz: Forms in Nature. Chandelier creates oversized forest shadows. Sarah Schneider: Augmented Ornamented Realities. 3D printed layered model.

Source. Powerhousemuseum.com, sarah-schneider.blogspot.co.uk

Source. thisiscolossal.com, theartfuldesperado.com


Inspiration – 21st centuryTechnique. 3D Printing 3D printing is a new exciting tool to create unusual, comtemporary designs. The process requires a fairly complicated process and the designing has a couple of different stages. The model can be done by FreeForm, Autodesk 3ds Max or Rhino programmes. Designer, Iris Von Herpen is known for her 3D printed collections.She usually collaborates with architects . There is a wide range of materials used for digital printing, such as nylon (PA), ABS (Lego) or titanium. Shoe designer, Alessio Spinelli’s stilettos are printed from nylon powder, this technique called the sintering process. This method allows to print models with fine details.

Source. Fashionspacegallery.com, alessiospinelli.com, shapeways.com

Source. sarah-schneider.blogspot.co.uk


Inspiration – Couture Techniques Contemporary women1s wear designer Yiqing Yin’s signature is her incredible smocking technique. Her creations are usually described as organic creatures. Madame Grés’ haute couture pleated gowns are a good example of shaping fabric onto the body’s contour. Valentino’s pleating techniques and romantic lace cut outs. Alberta Ferretti’s lace applique on nude colour mesh. Basque and corset structures inspired the collection’s understructure which is mirroring art nouveau’s ornamental lines.

Source. filepmotwary.com, Yiqinyin.com, pinimg.com, froufroufashionista.tumblr.com/

Source. stylebistro.com, bp.blogspot.com


Market positioning – Lingerie as contemporary outerwear The brand and its capsule collection are positioned for the luxury underwear market Platforms for the brand’s introduction is art fashion magazines and websites/blogs, in addition collaborations with other artists and these projects’ promotion. Reaching people with the brand’s signature is the first stage. The brand is a combination of a romantic and a modern technology, hence people react to innovations and to new hypes, like 3d printing. Online promotion is the cheapest and quickest way to reach future customers. Art is an important part of the brand and therefore for its target customers. The phenomenon ‘underwear as outerwear’ is still popular and mix and match it with casual garments are still desired by the modern women,

Source. Weddbook.de

Source. froufroufashionista.tumblr.com


Competitors and Brand positioning The brand and its capsule collection are positioned for the luxury underwear market. The main UK competitors are Agent Provocateur, Bordelle, Lascivious, Amoralle, Nicole de Carle, ID Sarrieri and Marlies Dekkers. Brand’s SWOT analysis: Strenght: contemporary, technologically innovative designs Weakness: start up business without manufacturer Opportunities: contemporary coutue range, innovation in lingerie market Threats: bigger luxury lingerie competition with manufacturers. Gap in the market


Consumer – Contemporary emotional behavior The brand targets modern women who like uniquness and shopping for social events. She likes to pick her lingerie first and match her clothing or even wear underwear as outerwear. t has to be unusual and a twist to it. She like silk and delicate fabrics. She relies on her emotions during shopping She likes art.istic and innovative brands. Her lifestyle allows her to buy

Source. pinimg.com, Harper’s Bazaar (February 2009)


Design Development – Tree branches as ornamental outlines A photo taken of a cherry blossom tree and its branches are traced with Illustrator and by hand. To follow the pattern, the hand drawing was simplified and layered to create embellishment ideas for the garments. The hand drawing was scanned in under a gauze fabric to give an atmosphere.


Design Development – Rapid Prototyping

Spine piece was influenced by tree branches and veins. It is modeled with the use of Bodyscan, Freeform and Autodesk 3DS Max programmes. Collaboration with Tamas Pal Kun graphic designer. The model was printed on a Polyjet printer from nylon powder with the sintering process. .

Process

Collaboration: Tamas Pal Kun


Design Development – Fabric Manipulation Analysing Yiqing Yin smocking and Madame GrÊs pleating techniques. Canadian smocking technique and simple smocking by hand. Delicate fabric such as silk chiffon behaves beautifully when ruched and steamed. Steaming is an important process to create the tight ruched effect. Layering chiffon and lace creates a blurry, misty effect.


Design Development – Corset style no.1


Design Development – Corset style no. 2


Design Development – Corset style no.3


Design Development – Corset style no.4


Design Development – Toiles for organic seam lines

Vein like seams appear on garment. Flat pattern looks like tree branches.

Additional toile development


Design Development – Understructure Art nouveau lines, boning structure Charles Rennie Mackintosh http://archidose.org

Source. archidose.org


Range Plan – Spirit collection


Range Plan – Spirit collection


Final collection


Packaging

Hangers

Woven labels

Boxes

Swing tags

Business cards


Branding The brand name is based on the designer’s first and last name. The font, Liana, is part of the brand’s signature; The promotional flyer reflects he brand’s handwriting and contains contact details for press enquiries. The subtitle for the brand is ’Luxury lingerie c corsetry’ as it makes the brand clear about its products to customers. The photoshoot, the styling and the atmosphere of the brand was created to have an impact on women’s emotions.. The lookbook is bounded in a blackk book with a grosgrain tie to give a romantic touch to it.

Flyer version1

Flyer version 2

Photography. Joanna Natalija Gourley


Lookbook – Front cover

Source: destina-terre.tumblr.com



katalinarady - Spirit collection - A/W2013/14