CONTENTS MISSION VALUES & ACTION DNA (ÂRCHETYPE) DUALITY CATWALK ANALYSIS INVERSION THE DOLL HOUSE THE MATRYOSHKA WALTZ DOPPELGANGER><DOUBLEWALKER INVERTED SPACES SURREALISM (US) ARCHETYPE (THE ANIMA) MASTER PUPETITEERS (TECHNOLOGY) IRONY
KARLA AMADOR CARRERA
From its inception, Viktor & Rolf is best known for the iconoclastic quirkiness and unrestrained, at times brazen, originality of their work. Animated mannequins play with a repertoire of inventive devices- distinctive textures. Pronounced, outsized shapes deconstruct a canvas where everything is bizarre and beautiful. Couture becomes nothing but a field of experimentation where we can lie with our clothes as they create a surrealistic connection between pretense and reality, the ordinary and extraordinary but can Viktor & Rolf continue its love affair with the surreal -- or will it explore more of their unrestrained (fantastical) past?
VALUES-IN-ACTION PAST “Belief in autonomous fashions that value human surrealism through dreams and emotions of irony and joy”
PRESENT “Belief in autonomous fashions that bring hyper-realism to the human through a layered reality that cherishes rough dreams, imagery and emotions”
Fashion for VIKTOR & ROLF is about creating an aura that is romantic but volatile at the same time. The Doll recreates the IDEAL SELF. They are objects constrained and trapped by the culture and times in which they live, as they adjust their behavior to meet societal expectations, the doll takes on our human form. The storybook of Viktor & Rolf tells the story of the doll over and over again. It is easy to understand that the doll is always at the heart of the brand identity system, because she can play with exaggerated and whimsical proportions in miniature sizes. However the doll can be REVERSIBLE, as she can posses more than one character at a time; she can mask FEAR with INNOCENCE,duality with frivolity, etc.
UALITY is an integral concept of VIKTOR & ROLF. The odd juxtaposition between colors, bold textures and oversized shapes are certainly not an accident. Duality becomes part of a magical surrealist poem filled with subliminal verses written in and set to a joyful mood, full of grand gestures and dramatic silhouettes where the rapid mood swings from comedy to farce to vulnerability and violence. Create a genuinely disorienting experience for the spectators and consequently for the (customers), as do the frequent evocations of unreal fantasies and hallucinations behind the concepts, as it is always the unreal that is always more powerful than the real.
IKTOR & ROLF are MARIONETTE PUPPETERS that play with MASKED AND ANONYMOUS fashions, where only intangible ideas, dreams, beliefs, irony and surrealism hide the emphasis on the extreme; the marginal and the violent. However, it is this duality that takes their characters to a final situation where they must face their own original conditions of fear and anxiety, as their characters reach a mirrored end. Where they face a grotesquely exaggerated entity that becomes a prisoner of their own psyche and sentiment pathos
AUTUMN-WINTER 2011 READY TO WEAR SOUNDTRACK: PERCUSSIVE “HURT”SOUNDS KEYWORDS: BLACK BOXES, CRUSADES, STIFF FABRICS, VARIEGATED SHAPES, ROMANTIC SHARPNESS, AGGRESSIVE, CONSTRUCTIVIST, SHARP TAILORING The appetite for disorientation was present in clothes that were made for battle. Red Faced models walked down the runaway as modern Medieval knights wearing suits of origami armor and shields.
SOUNDTRACK: WHITE WEDDING (BILLY IDOL) KEYWORDS: OVERBLOWN TAILORING, CRISP WHITES, PEARLS, OVERSIZED DRESS, GAME OF WHITE SHIRTS, BRIDES, VOLUME
The white simple shirt became the protagonist of the show as the duo over magnified the function and proportion of the basic garment. Elizabethan references were manipulated into many different versions that made a shirt symphony of proportions and inversion.
A Zen garden became the focal point behind the all black Couture Fall 2013 show there was a sense of calmness behind the purity and loneliness of their black tailoring, where balance was the thread that unified the darkness of the fabric with the wholeness of shape.
SOUNDTRACK: MEDITATION OHMS KEYWORDS: MEDITATION, BEING AWAKE, CONTEMPLATION, CONCENTRATION, DEVOTION, NO BEGINNING AND NO END.
AUTUMN- WINTER 2013- 2014 COUTURE
SPRING – SUMMER 2011 READY TO WEAR
Asymmetrical ripples of fabric dominated the catwalk where the doll became the protagonist in subversive world where dashing textures dazzling color dominate, the doll was not a plaything this time as she was allowed play in an ephemeral world where the doll and not the woman always reigns.
SOUNDTRACK: FRENCH POP DUO BRIGITTE KEYWORDS: BLOWN UP STITCHING, BABY DOLLS, NAIVE MOODS, DOLL-LIKE, FRAGILE, GLOSSY,TOY-LIKE QUALITIES, ORNAMENTAL, POWDER PUFF COLORS.
SPRING/SUMMER 2012 READY TO WEAR
SOUNDTRACK: JUNGLE ELECTRONICS KEYWOARDS: CRISIS, STRENGTH, SCULPTURES, STIFFNESS, 3 – D DECORATIONS, THEATRI CAL, CONCRETE TEXTURES, COMPLEX STATUES, CLASSIC BEAUTY. This collection was created as a counter-reaction from the economical fall-down of 2008. The timeless shape and classical beauty of Greco- Roman sculptures took shape in a discreet elegance, where fabric was chiseled as if it was stone through complex geometric shapes, to remind us that we can alway seek refugee in classic designs in times of uncertainty.
SPRING - SUMMER 2010 READY TO WEAR
SOUNDTRACK: BIBLICAL WORDS (SONG OF SOLOMON) KEYWORDS: RED LOCKS, BOUDOIR SHEETS, DREAMY NIGHTS, SOMMNAMBULISM, SOFT DRAPERY, CONTRASTING HUES, NIGHT-WEAR, NIGHT-WORN.
The sleepwalker was the main inspiration behind the collection; she lives in a fantasy world where dreams, ambiguities and realities become one single world.
AUTUMN-WINTER 2002 READY TO WEAR
VOLUME TENSION Viktor & Rolf decided to literally cut ball gowns down as they tried to defy gravity with odd constructions that manipulated delicate tulle, as stone.
KEYWORDS: EXPERIMENTAL, RADIANT, MANHATTAN SKYLINE,CINEMATIC BLUE SCREENS
The duo visualized a blue screen where the inmaterial comes to life with the help of blue garments that
were replaced by images, so that in the end the model became a blue screen sucking in distinctions,
details, and ultimately, consolidating the cosmic power of the inmaterial.
KEYWORDS: SCISSORS, DIMENSIONAL SCULPTURES, CREDIT SHRINKS,MANIPULATION,
SOUNTRACK: HEAVY ELECTRONICS
SOUNDTRACK: HOLD UP YOUR HANDS ROYALITY, DEMON LOVER
AUTUMN – WINTER 2009 READY-TO WEAR
AUTUMN- WINTER 2006 READY TO WEAR
VIKTOR & ROLF have achieved through the years an aesthetic of INVERSION, where BOTTOMS become TOPS, RIGHT becomes LEFT, ENDS become BEGGININGS. These inverted fashions are based on existentialism as, we have to create a NEW MEANING from the CHAOTIC and INAUTHENTIC visual universe they create through fashion. Inviting the wearer to do what they are forbidden to do, through a visual language that does not follow the fashion conventions of our time.
INVERTED STORIES PEO PLE A RE TH AN INCOMPLETE OSE W CIRCLE H THE WANDERE O ASK QU RS AND THEESTIO THIS IS THE NS WARRIORS OF LIGHT MIND SET O RAIN WAS S B N THE BRIGHT AND HOLLOW SKY A M U H E IF TH RSTAND UPSIDE DOWN SIMPLE FOR US TO UNDE WE WO WORLD-IN-BETWEEN ULD NE VER AS PERSONALITY DISORDERS K ANY INTERNAL CONFLICT QUESTIONS AND ALTHOUGH I FEET ON THE AIR HAVE ONLY SEEN BLACK CRO WS HEAD ON THE GROUND IN MY LIFE IT DOES NOT MEAN FIGHTING GRAVITY THAT IN CONTROL SUCH THERE IS NO SECURE A THING REJOICING IN W FLOWERS ITE CRO AS A WH MIRRORS BOWS SHIRTS DECONSTRUCT THE DIMENSIONS SPLIT HEARTS MELT IMAGINATION FINDS A NEW PLACE TO BE OR NOT TO BE THAT HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE QUESTION BECAUSE THE MOST SUBERSIVE
“WHAT MEANS TO YOU, WHAT MEANS TO ME, AND WE WILL MEET AGAIN. RE THO A E L P O PE THE WANDERE RS
AND THE WARRIORS OF LIGHT SO BRAIN WAS N A M U H E H IF T ND E FOR US TO UNDERSTA PL M SI WE WO ULD NE VER AS K ANY QUESTIONS AND ALTHOUGH I HAVE ONLY SE EN BLACK CRO WS IN MY LIFE IT DOES NOT MEAN THAT SUCH THERE IS NO
A THING ITE CRO W
AS A WH
ASK Q SE WHO
RECONSTRUCT MIRRORING OPEN ENDS CLOSED BEGGININGS DEEP MYSTERIES SPLIT- PERSONALITIES EXTREMES BIPOLARITY WRONG LINES STRANGER FRIENDS RINGS ON RINGS OFF DARK SHINE OPPOSITES MANIA LIBERATION INDEPENDENT THOUGHTS INDEPENDENT CLOTHES EXPERIMENTAL INTUITION IIRRITATION SINGLE ENTITIES DISTANCE AND TRASCENDENCE TWISTED PERFORMANCES SELF REFLECTIONS INTERNAL TENSIONS
THE DOLL HOUSE
“We wanted it to be a narrative we chose all the iconic pieces and reworked them in miniature,” Rolf Snoeren
HE UNCANNY is something fearful something frightening, is fright-
ening precisely because it is not known and familiar. Dolls and figures allow people to create whatever world they want at that moment-closely connected with childhood, as it is during our childhood that we cannot distinguish sharply between living and inanimate objects - treating dolls like living entities.
In 2008 the duo created the Viktor & Rolf’s Dollhouse, a concept where they created a huge dollhouse (Three levels) and their most memorable pieces
in doll size. Creating a single entity (THE HOUSE). The cold perfection and
the haunting gaze of the dolls preserves the work, a kind of miniature size
perspective. Each doll is designed to resemble a particular model in Viktor & Rolf’s catwalk shows, and are all meticulously styled right down to their
makeup on porcelain faces, clothes and hairstyles. The duo employs the
psychological artifice of <THE UNCANNY> with success in their fantastic narratives of Victorian dolls.
THE MATRYOS HUMAN LAYERS
Inspired by matryoshka dolls, Viktor & Rolf built a collection based on the subject of DUALITY layering. The conceptual show opened with the model standing on a rotating pedestal wearing a canvas dress that resembles a sack potato, magic unfolded as the show went by. The duo appeared from the darkness to add layers and layers each more elaborated and intricate than the last. The collection grew from a sistematic level from the idea of concealing indentities and feelings.
HKA FLEETING STAGES TRIAL AND ERROR
MULTI - SENSORY PERCEPTION REFLEXES ROBUST
VIKTOR & ROLF HAUTE COUTURE AUTUMN/WINTER 1999-00 RUSSIAN WHO IS THE HEAD, GROUP OR THE HEART?
Sometimes I just donâ€™t want to see you Sometimes I canâ€™t even touch you But there are times that I just want to
Drown you under a scream And forget your image, but I donâ€™t dare...
DOUB LE WAL KER
The doppelganger is the person that we’d rath-
er not be (our shadow). s[h]e offers an outlet to the
weaknesses of the mind: escapism. It plays an im-
portant role in the brand as it merges passions and emotions from the physical and the shadow entities
of the brand. Viktor’s & Rolf doppelganger represents pure freedom and madness because it does not fol-
low traits like rules, oppositions, and restrictions. The doppelganger illuminates and obscures at the same time the image ID of the brand through alterations and images that often play with classical representations
and visual traditions. In doing so, it reveals further
The complements are nothing but a metaphor of
fragments <BLACK-WHITE, LIFE-DEATH, INNOCENCE–CORRUPTION>. Mirrored fragments that offer a glimpse into those internal battles everyone has.
possibilities between body form and moods.
THESITES OPPOTHE BLESDOUIf we consider the brand from a cinematic distance, it The idea of duality portrays the inner psychological
conflicts of the mind. Viktor’s & Rolf fashion focuses on everything around clothes (INNER & OUTER) but not the clothes.
reproduces a hall of mirrors that reflect the world we
live in, as it is the presence of mirrors that changes the way we perceive reality because they seem to make us more self-aware of everything that is untouchable and unreachable, the tangible and the intangible.
INVERTED SPACES THAT PLOT A
REVERSAL OF EMPTINESS AND TRUTH
URREALISMUS Everything starts with a reality, then we build upon it. The brands intricate relationship with surrealism is
no accident, as surrealism allows the duo to construct women as magic objects and scenarios on which to project fantasy worlds. They re-create women as DOLL-LIKE personalities, poised between the worlds of artifice (art) and nature, or the PRIMAL UNCANNY life.”
“THESE ARE THE COLORS OF DREAMS
ARCHETYPE THE ANIMA With it’s delicate form, voluptuous curves, and figure-of-eight silhouette, the violin form has been part of the Viktor & Rolf ’s identity. Without beginning or end, the violin alludes to infinity,romance and freedom.
CAN I MAKE MUSIC LAUGH? In 2007 Viktor & Rolf launched THE HARLEQUIN COLLECTION, paying homage to Marcel Marceau and the exquisite art of mime, the duo created exaggerated Pierrot collars adorned in pink and white violins, paired
up with HARLEQUIN PRINTS creating a romantic and whimsical collection but full of MELANCHOLY underneath.
“When we were young, by coincidence, we both had the same picture of a Pierrot on our walls,” explained Rolf Sno-
eren. “This Pierrot had roses, violins and flying doves, and it was something we wanted to translate through the Wing and Swirl.” The idea was to “play with those very simple clichés of romance,” Viktor Horsting.
T H E
O L I N
Lâ€™arte Della Commedia
MASTERS H C TE
Y DETAILS G O L O N
DISPROPORTIONATE EMPHASIS IMMATERIAL SILHOUETTES
RECONCILE OPPOSITES EPIC PROPORTIONS
WHY ARE YOU SO AFRAID OF? THE TENDERNESS OF
PINK ? THE CALMNESS OF
THE PASSION OF
MAY THE GHOST OF COLOR HAUNT YOU FOREVER...
SURREALISM OWNS JUXTAPOSITION SURREALISM OWNS ITSELF SURREALISM OWNS UPSIDE DOWN SURREALISM OWNS MEMORY SURREALISM OWNS DREAMS SURREALISM OWNS DIMENSIONS SURREALISM OWNS NUMBERS SURREALISM OWNS FLYING SURREALISM OWNS BOWS SURREALISM OWNS SELF-DOUBT SURREALISM OWNS IDEALISM SURREALISM OWNS MANIPULATION SURREALISM OWNS STRANGE PROPORTIONS SURREALISM OWNS BONBON BOXES SURREALISM OWNS OVERBLOWN ELEGANCE SURREALISM OWNS SPECTACLE SURREALISM OWNS DEFLATIONS SURREALISM OWNS CELEBRATION SURREALISM OWNS FORMAL OPPOSITES SURREALISM OWNS CAMEMBERT CHEESE SURREALISM OWNS THE LAVISH SURREALISM OWNS THE BISQUE DOLL SURREALISM OWNS METAPHORS SURREALISM OWNS WRAPPING SURREALISM OWNS STARS SURREALISM OWNS BRIGHT FOG SURREALISM OWNS BELL BELTS SURREALISM OWNS HIDDEN MEANINGS SURREALISM OWNS DREAMY IMAGERY SURREALISM OWNS MINIATURE CRAFTMANSHIP SURREALISM OWNS EMPTY SHAPES SURREALISM OWNS STARDUST SURREALISM OWNS DETAILED EDGES SURREALISM OWNS THE DOPPELGANGER SURREALISM OWNS ECCENTRIC SCAPISM SURREALISM OWNS MURMUR SURREALISM OWNS ALLUSIONS SURREALISM OWNS THE PERSISTENCE OF MEMORY SURREALISM OWNS EXCESSIVE PLEATING SURREALISM OWNS CENTRIPETAL FORCES SURREALISM OWNS BLACK HOLES SURREALISM OWNS EXCESSIVE VOLUMES SURREALISM OWNS FRAGMENTS OF EXISTENCE SURREALISM OWNS INVERTED FANTASIES SURREALISM OWNS THE ODD SURREALISM OWNS ECCENTRIC DETAILING SURREALISM OWNS TORMENT SURREALISM OWNS SUPERFICIALITY SURREALISM OWNS CRUMBLING STRUCTURES SURREALISM OWNS VIVID DREAMS SURREALISM OWNS THE UNCANNY SURREALISM OWNS IMMORTALITY SURREALISM OWNS THE MOTIF SURREALISM OWNS VIKTOR & ROLF
HYPERREALISM OWNS THE TORN HYPERREALISM OWNS EVERYONE HYPERREALISM OWNS TURNTABLES HYPERREALISM OWNS WOUNDS HYPERREALISM OWNS HALLUCINATIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS LAYERS HYPERREALISM OWNS WORDS HYPERREALISM OWNS FALLING HYPERREALISM OWNS KNOTS HYPERREALISM OWNS DETACHMENT HYPERREALISM OWNS MELANCHOLY HYPERREALISM OWNS VULNERABILITY HYPERREALISM OWNS NEGLECTED PROPORTIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS BACKWARDS HYPERREALISM OWNS INVIOLABLE SPACES HYPERREALISM OWNS AGONISING PASSIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS DISTORTION HYPERREALISM OWNS MODERN EXISTENTIALISM HYPERREALISM OWNS CONFRONTATION HYPERREALISM OWNS RAW EMOTION HYPERREALISM OWNS HIDDEN CORNERS HYPERREALISM OWNS VERISIMILITUDE HYPERREALISM OWNS LABYRINTHS HYPERREALISM OWNS DISTORTED REALITIES HYPERREALISM OWNS REPRODUCTION HYPERREALISM OWNS INDISTINGUISHABLE IMITATIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS BLURRED LINES HYPERREALISM OWNS INTENSITY HYPERREALISM OWN TRUTH AND LIES HYPERREALISM OWNS GENERATED WORLDS HYPERREALISM OWNS ACTION REACTION HYPERREALISM OWNS REALISTIC ATMOSPHERA HYPERREALISM OWNS THE AVATAR HYPERREALISM OWNS SENSUAL TECHNO-EMOTIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS INMERSION HYPERREALISM OWNS PSYCHOLOGICAL GROWTH HYPERREALISM OWNS RAW METAPHOR HYPERREALISM OWNS ALL-ROUND STRUCTURES HYPERREALISM OWNS THE UNVEILMENT HYPERREALISM OWNS SIMULACRA HYPERREALISM OWNS MAGNIFICATION HYPERREALISM OWNS COMPLEX LABYRINTHS HYPERREALISM OWNS HYPER TEXTS HYPERREALISM OWNS REMOTE COMMUNICATION HYPERREALISM OWNS DIGITAL HUMANOID SENSATIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS PHANTASMAGORIC EMOTIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS CIRCULAR TIME HYPERREALISM OWNS GRADUALITY HYPERREALISM OWNS HALLUCINATIONS HYPERREALISM OWNS LOST PARADISE HYPERREALISM OWNS THE CONTINUITY OF LIFE HYPERREALISM OWNS MORTALITY HYPERREALISM OWNS ALL ANGLES HYPERREALISM NOWS VIKTOR & ROLF
VIKTOR & ROLD THESIS PART 1 (POLIMODA 2013)