Page 1

JUTE MAGAZINE • 1


XIX

-CONTENTS

PART 1

04

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

05

74

editorial&features

82

“SESSILEE” Lindsay Adler

92

CONTRIBUTORS

06

“KILL YOUR DEMONS” Chellise Michael

14

“NO FIMAGE” Elisabeth Brough

“KALE KOP STORY” Lisa Justine

22

“AIAIÉ” Stefania Pruscino

PG. 142

“FRANCESCA CANTARELLI” Stefania Pruscino

28

“TEMPERANCE” Christopher Zimmerman

38

“EVOLVE” Fabian Tatomirescu

46

“FAINT” Allie Brown

56

“IN HIS HEELS” Michelle Aristocrat

66

(COVER) “CHANTELLE” Paul Fitzgerald

ON THE COVER: photographer PAUL FITZGERALD, stylist CANDICE LEWIN, hair MARY GARRETT-BOND, makeup ANA MAKRIDIS, model CHANTELLE PRICE @ CHADWICK MODELS , styling assistant SOPHIA ROTAR, hair and makeup assistant RACHEL BOLER, top by SOPHIA ROTAR, headpiece by MARY GARRETT-BOND

JUTE MAGAZINE • 2

98

“BOUQUET OF THOUGHTS AND ARTISTRY” Erich Caparas

104

”GEO” Amy Nelson-Blain

110

“DARKER SIDE OF LIGHT” VOIR

116

“DRAMA QUEEN” Tracey Frugoli

124

“COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK” Inez Dawczyk & Stefania Pruscino

144

“DREAMS EMBODIED” Jiajia Tan


JUTE MAGAZINE • 3


-LET TER FROM THE EDITOR

As you may h ave n o t iced, I h ave dec ided to s pli t our M arch issue into t wo p ar ts. We re ce i ve d s o many amazin g sub missio ns this m u c h that I couldn’t h elp want in g to p ubl is h them al l ! Fu r the r more, we h ad t wo ver y dist inc t s t y l es a m ongs t the edito r ials. R at h er t h an m as h them both toge ther, it made a lo t mo re s ens e to pl ay a ccord i ng to t h eir st ren gt h s. S o I fig u red: w hy no t jus t have t w ice t h e f un t h is mo nt h? I n par t o n e o f o ur avant- gard e them e, we explore the dar ker side o f f ash io n . We have pag e a f te r pa ge of in spired co ut ure, n ig htm ar is h f antas y, and e ve n a b rush wit h t h e r isqu é. I t al l m ak es for q u i te the sur real ex per ien ce t hat yo u have to s e e to be li eve. Addi tio n ally, we h ave ch o sen Co penhag en Fa s hi on We ek as o ur premier event this s eas o n. The re are 20 pages o f Feat ures Edi to r Stef ania Pr u s c i no’s h igh light s!

XOXO, Lynzi Editor-in-Chief

JUTE MAGAZINE • 4


contributors

editor-in-chief/designer LYNZI JUDISH

copy editor CHLOE BUNDT

features editor STEFANIA PRUSCINO

marketing director NICOLE SCHAAP

webitorial designer MATTHEW VITA

faces designer MAYA MCCOMAS

web developer DAVE BROWN

contributing photgraphers

ALLIE BROWN AMY NELSON-BLAIN CHELLISE MICHAEL CHRISTOPHER ZIMMERMAN ELISABETH BROUGH ERICH CAPARAS FABIAN TATOMIRESCU INEZ DAWCZYK JIAJIA TAN LINDSAY ADLER LISA JUSTINE MICHELLE ARISTOCRAT PAUL FITZGERALD TRACEY FRUGOLI VOIR

contributing writers

STEFANIA PRUSCINO

featured artists

AIAIÉ FRANCESCA CANTARELLI

JUTE MAGAZINE • 5


SESSILEE photographer: LINDSAY ADLER, stylist: LSC STYLING @ 4SEASON STYLE MANAGEMENT hair/makeup: Griselle Rosario, model: Sessilee Lopez @ Major Model Management

JUTE MAGAZINE • 6


dress FRONT ROW, arm pieces LAURELUXE, necklace, cuffs MARIA FRANCESCO PEPE, ring VITA FEDE, boots LAKIO BUKIA

JUTE MAGAZINE • 7


jacket SKINGRAFT, dress LIE SANG BONG, collar KAREN LONDON, necklace AVANT GARDE, cuffs VERITEE HILL, shoes LIE SANG BONG

JUTE MAGAZINE • 8


dress BASIL SODA, satchel 4S, sash K20 by KAREN KO, neck cuff LAURELUXE, cuffs, ring AVANT GARDE, ring MARIA FRANCESCO PEPE

JUTE MAGAZINE • 9


jacket, belt, gloves NORISOL FERRARI, skirt SKINGRAFT, earrings MISSONI, cuff VITA FEDE, necklace DELPHINE CHARLOTTE PARMENTIER, body chain MARIA FRANCESCO PEPE, ring AVANT GARDE, shoes CESARE PACIOTTI

JUTE MAGAZINE • 10


jacket NORISOL FERRARI, body cage LAURELUXE, pants FRONT ROW, neckpiece, cuff AVANT GARDE, ring JOOMI LIM, boots ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

JUTE MAGAZINE • 11


jacket, pants BASIL SODA, top CECILE, necklaces JOOMI LIM, K20 by KAREN KO, cuff DELFINA DELETTREZ, bracelet MARIA FRANCESCO PEPE, shoes CASADEI

JUTE MAGAZINE • 12


neckpiece PRINCESS PRUNE, dress LIE SANG BONG, necklace DELPHINE CHARLOTTE PARMENTIER, bracelet MARIA FRANCESCO PEPE, cuff AVANT GARDE, rings DELFINA DELETTREZ, MAX & CHLOE, shoes ALEJANDRO INGELMO

JUTE MAGAZINE • 13


JUTE MAGAZINE • 14


Kale Kop Story photographer: LISA JUSTINE, makeup: JENNIFER LÜBKE (visagist Flawless MakeUp) models: Svea-Jill Czech @ KR-Models and Alarah Huppertz, studio: Okerwerk pants by Eldar

Bald Head: Grimas, Kryolan Mastix Makeup: Maybelline Fit Me Foundation Nr. 105 + Pressed Powder Nr. 120 + Concealer Nr. 15, Kryolan Eye Shadow Variety 18 Colors, NYX Jumbo Eyeshadow Pencil in Black Bean, Kryolan Aquacolor Palette 12 Colors SN, Inglot Eyeshadow AMC17 JUTE MAGAZINE • 15


JUTE MAGAZINE • 16


JUTE MAGAZINE • 17


JUTE MAGAZINE • 18


JUTE MAGAZINE • 19


JUTE MAGAZINE • 20


JUTE MAGAZINE • 21


AIAIÉ / SS15 / SHADOWGRAPH by Stefania Pruscino

The European Bauhaus movement inspired the SS15 collection of AIAIÉ / Zsanett Hegedűs. The pieces show the double shadows of the silver age of the 1930’s, saluting the work of Kertész, Moholy-Nagy and Munkácsi. In the first part of the collection, the geometry of light and shadow is associated with the concept and philosophy of architecture; later, shadows become bigger and ornamental and architecture appears and becomes accentuated in shapes and tailoring. Besides the required polyester for digital prints, every piece is made of natural fabrics like wool, silk and cotton satin. Only the special, frosted glass-like fabric is polyester, which is the alter ego of the magnifying disc. We interviewed lead designer Zsuzsanna Benkó to learn more about AIAIÉ / Zsanett Hegedűs and this striking collection, Shadowgraph. Where are you from? I am from the middle of Europe, Hungary. This is where my grandparents, coming from neighboring countries, started their young years and this is where Moholy-Nagy, Kertész, Munkácsi and Brassai were born.

Which artists, living or dead, has most influenced the design aesthetic of the brand?

Where does the design team currently reside?

What other creative fields have influenced the brands aesthetic?

I am the head designer of the brand; it is small company with a small team. We reside in Budapest, Hungary.

Works of cooperation with other designers and fields can sometimes influence the designs, however, AIAIÉ’s aesthetic is pretty much consistent. It is inspired by various mediums of art: digital/techno textiles, new types of tailoring, visual pattern making, the actual development of the fabrics and, of course, cultural impacts as well.

How has the brand changed over time? Men’s bespoke pieces were added to the scope of the brand a few years ago. I make hybrid jackets using different tailoring styles and fabrics that meet men’s demands more accurately. As for the bespoke line, the brand is characterized by a balanced, timeless style for women that reflect clients’ desires sensitively. The concept art: line, tailoring and conceptual contents and stories are becoming more and more accentuated. While this line pays attention to trends, creativity and novelty are more important. What sparked your interest in expressing yourself visually via the Bauhaus movement? The idea of the Bauhaus movement is elementary for a Central European designer. The moment one meets its academic tradition at the university one realizes the founders are from this movement. Not to mention, it’s ever-present in our culture; there are many great examples in the architecture of Budapest. We can say that many European designers were carved out of its mantle. For a long time, I was a big fan of Art Deco, but now this has moved me in the direction of the clearer, more meaningful Bauhaus. Who is the AIAIÉ woman? The AIAIÉ woman does not exist. If it does, she is a multi-faceted, conscious woman who is confident with her personality. Whatever it is, the conceptual line with it novelties, outrageous designs or style, our garments complete her own; she wears everything with elegance.

There are no other designers or artists that influence the brand except for myself.

If you were not a designer, what would you be doing? I was so young when I decided that I wanted to become a garment and textile designer that I knew this was the only path for me. These are the only materials that I can express myself in and in so many ways, and the field is so diverse with many interconnecting industries that I know I am going to learn it forever. The tailoring in this collection is very unique; how can women style these garments for everyday? This is a conceptual collection; everyday wearability was not the primary aim. However, there are occasions that these pieces can be worn for, and I imagine clients or buyers becoming inspired by these pieces and ordering something simpler, based on them. The SHADOWGRAPH collection intends to convey this type of message. What can we expect to see in the future? The success of SHADOWGRAPH proves that the brand needs an inspiring, creative line that reflects sensitivity to the world; a line that is always one step ahead of trends. Therefore, AIAIÉ is going to show a collection of 15-20 pieces each year. Our brand aims at offering the perfect solutions to peoples’ demands. In response to that demand, we have since launched a men’s bespoke line and we’re continuing to improve our versatility by introducing hybrid jackets for a younger, innovative feel that stems from the traditions of classic menswear. The SHADOWGRAPH collection debuted on the runway of Vancouver Fashion Week in September 2014. For further information on the collection and the brand, please follow this link: http://bit.ly/aiaie_ss15_shadowgraph_eng.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 22


JUTE MAGAZINE • 23


JUTE MAGAZINE • 24


JUTE MAGAZINE • 25


JUTE MAGAZINE • 26


“The AIAIÉ woman does not exist. If it does, she is a multi-faceted, conscious woman who is confident with her personality. Whatever it is, the conceptual line with it novelties, outrageous designs or style, our garments complete her own; she wears everything with elegance.”

JUTE MAGAZINE • 27


gown UMA WANG, crown CHROMAT

JUTE MAGAZINE • 28


TEMPERANCE photographer: CHRISTOPHER ZIMMERMAN, stylist: SARAH PRUDHOMME hair/makeup: Tisha Cruse, model: Kalli Keith @ Neal Hamil Agency / Kim Dawson

JUTE MAGAZINE • 29


lingerie BORDELLE, coat DOLCE AND GABBANA, mask CECILIO CASTRILLO JUTE MAGAZINE • 30


dress FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO, harness GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, boots MIU MIU JUTE MAGAZINE • 31


gown NOTTE by MARCHESA, harness FLEET ILYA JUTE MAGAZINE • 32


finger armor FIVE AND DIAMOND JUTE MAGAZINE • 33


bodysuit COSABELLA, body armor CHROMAT JUTE MAGAZINE • 34


gown DONNA KARAN, shoes OSCAR DE LA RENTA, mask CECILIO CASTRILLO JUTE MAGAZINE • 35


bodysuit LA PERLA, chain mail HOUSE OF MALAKAI, shoes CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

JUTE MAGAZINE • 36


JUTE MAGAZINE • 37


EVOLVE photographer/creative director/stylist: FABIAN TATOMIRESCU hair: Mihai Despina, makeup: Irina Cajvaneanu model: Antonia @ Unique Models, photography assistant: Vika Tonu

JUTE MAGAZINE • 38


mask VIKA TONU DESIGN, dress ALEXANDRU NIMURAD JUTE MAGAZINE • 39


shirt ALCHEMY, ring, necklace VIKA TONU, boots IL PASSO DESIGN JUTE MAGAZINE • 40


crown CARRA ACCESSORIES, ring, necklace VIKA TONU DESIGN, top ALEXANDRU NIMURAD JUTE MAGAZINE • 41


crown CARRA ACCESSORIES, rings, necklace VIKA TONU DESIGN, jacket ALCHEMY JUTE MAGAZINE • 42


crown CARRA ACCESSORIES, ring VIKA TONU DESIGN, jacket ZARA, shirt H&M, boots IL PASSO DESIGN JUTE MAGAZINE • 43


crown CARRA ACCESSORIES, necklace VIKA TONU DESIGN, jacket, pants ALCHEMY, boots IL PASSO DESIGN JUTE MAGAZINE • 44


crown CARRA ACCESSORIES, skirt ALEXANDRU NIMURAD, necklace VIKA TONU DESIGN JUTE MAGAZINE • 45


model left: vest NORTON MCNAUGHTON Vaux Vintage, skirt Saint Vintage model right: dress Vaux Vintage JUTE MAGAZINE • 46


Faint

photographer: ALLIE BROWN hair: Dionah Austgen makeup: Mel Akana McIntosh models: Autum, Bryce, Grace @ Wilhelmina Denver photography assistant: Madi Hadel makeup assistant: Hannah Coop clothing provided by Saint Vintage and Vaux Vintage

JUTE MAGAZINE • 47


dress Saint Vintage JUTE MAGAZINE • 48


model left: top Saint Vintage, skirt NEUSETERS Saint Vintage model middle: corset, slip Saint Vintage model right: dress APRIL CORNELL Vaux Vintage

JUTE MAGAZINE • 49


model left: top Vaux Vintage, skirt Saint Vintage model right: nightgown Saint Vintage JUTE MAGAZINE • 50


dress Saint Vintage JUTE MAGAZINE • 51


model left: top Saint Vintage, culottes CAROLE LITTLE Vaux Vintage model right: blouse, dress Vaux Vintage, scarf Saint Vintage model top: skirt Saint Vintage

JUTE MAGAZINE • 52


dress Vaux Vintage

JUTE MAGAZINE • 53


dress Vaux Vintage JUTE MAGAZINE • 54


model left: dress Saint Vintage model middle: dress Vaux Vintage model right: dress Saint Vintage

JUTE MAGAZINE • 55


corset NORTHBOUND, pants DENIS GAGNON JUTE MAGAZINE • 56


IN HIS

HEELS photographer: MICHELLE ARISTOCRAT, stylist: AMANDA FOX hair: Daniel Fortunato , makeup: Charlotte Wolfe model: Seth Atwell @ Plutino

JUTE MAGAZINE • 57


tunic, skirt DIODATI, leggings SEE YOU MONDAY, boots DR. MARTEN JUTE MAGAZINE • 58


tunic, shirt DIODATI, leggings SEE YOU MONDAY, boots BORDELLO

JUTE MAGAZINE • 59


sweater dress DENIS GAGNON, leggings SEE YOU MONDAY, boots BORDELLO JUTE MAGAZINE • 60


shirt JEAN PAUL GAUTIER, pants DIODATI JUTE MAGAZINE • 61


tunic ZARA, leggings SEE YOU MONDAY, boots BORDELLO JUTE MAGAZINE • 62


tunic, overlay DIODATI, leggings SEE YOU MONDAY, boots BORDELLO JUTE MAGAZINE • 63


JUTE MAGAZINE • 64


tank DOLCE AND GABBANA, overalls RUDSAK, boots DR. MARTEN JUTE MAGAZINE • 65


Chantelle photographer: PAUL FITZGERALD, stylist: CANDICE LEWIN hair: Mary Garrett-Bond, makeup: Ana Makridis model: Chantelle Price @ Chadwick Models, styling assistant: Sophia Rotar hair and makeup assistant: Rachel Boler, makeup by MAC Cosmetics

JUTE MAGAZINE • 66


top SOPHIA ROTAR, skirt BOTTEGA VENETA, hair piece MARY GARRETT-BOND JUTE MAGAZINE • 67


headpiece, corset SOPHIA ROTAR JUTE MAGAZINE • 68


hair piece MARY GARRETT-BOND JUTE MAGAZINE • 69


gown, neck piece GWENDOLYNNE, hair piece MARY GARRETT-BOND JUTE MAGAZINE • 70


gown GWENDOLYNNE, hair piece MARY GARRETT-BOND

JUTE MAGAZINE • 71


gown, neckpiece GWENDOLYNNE, hair piece MARY GARRETT-BOND JUTE MAGAZINE • 72


head piece MARY GARRETT-BOND JUTE MAGAZINE • 73


collar FLEET ILYA, underwear H&M

JUTE MAGAZINE • 74


Francesca Cantarelli by Stefania Pruscino

Promising Italian stylist, Francesca Cantarelli’s, recent work entitled Tightlicing: Ropes of the Soul is a thought-provoking series of images that focuses on the social and cultural importance that eroticism has had on the Oriental culture and that influence on the Western World. Cantarelli explains that along with the photographic shooting, which represents the most important part of her work, she also examined the various art forms in the Orient culture including: shunga, photography, cinema, fashion, and how the practice of bondage has influenced designers creations. Shooting in a former psychiatric hospital in which ropes and binding were a common source of suffering, Cantarelli decided to use these objects to create a scene in which the ropes almost caress the model’s body, as to make it become a source of pleasure instead of pain. “The aesthetics of the clothes, the ropes, the poses and the naked body bring back to mind the suffering and the physical pain as well as the solitude and torment experienced by those who were tied and trapped in the cold, damp wards.” Looking at this editorial one can feel the dichotomy of being poised yet broken, liberated and yet still imprisoned. Francesca Cantarelli is a stylist living in Teramo, Italy. Photo Credits: Concept/Stylist: Francesca Cantarelli Photographer: Claudia Petraroli Hair/Makeup: Cristina Di Marco Model: Paula Lingyi Sun Photography Assistant: Valentina Mameli

JUTE MAGAZINE • 75


t-shirt C’N’C’ COSTUME NATIONAL, harness ZADO, accessories DESIRE FASHION

JUTE MAGAZINE • 76


bodysuit LA PERLA, skirt AMERICAN APPAREL

JUTE MAGAZINE • 77


t-shirt C’N’C’ COSTUME NATIONAL, harness ZADO, accessories DESIRE FASHION

JUTE MAGAZINE • 78


JUTE MAGAZINE • 79


JUTE MAGAZINE • 80


dress ZARA, necklace PINKO JUTE MAGAZINE • 81


model left: coat JONATHAN MIRANDA, neckpiece PHILIPP SHCHEKIN model right: headpiece GISLANE MALDONADO, neckpiece PHILIPP SHCHEKIN, dress, leggings SAGA NYC

JUTE MAGAZINE • 82


KILL YOUR DEMONS photographer: CHELLISE MICHAEL, stylist/hair/makeup: ELIAS GURROLA models: Courtney Acomb and Aurélien Nobécourt featured designers: Jonathan Miranda, Gislane Maldonado, Philipp Shchekin,

TOY SYNDROME, SAGA NYC

JUTE MAGAZINE • 83


JUTE MAGAZINE • 84


model left: coat JONATHAN MIRANDA, collar GISLANE MALDONADO, headpiece PHILIPP SHCHEKIN model right: dress JONATHAN MIRANDA, headpiece PHILIPP SHCHEKIN

JUTE MAGAZINE • 85


hoodie GISLANE MALDONADO, t-shirt SAGA NYC

JUTE MAGAZINE • 86


headpiece GISLANE MALDONADO, sweatshirt TOY SYNDROME, leggings SAGA NYC

JUTE MAGAZINE • 87


JUTE MAGAZINE • 88


unitard GISLANE MALDONADO, sweatshirt TOY SYNDROME

JUTE MAGAZINE • 89


gown JONATHAN MIRANDA, heapiece PHILIPP SHCHEKIN

JUTE MAGAZINE • 90


dress JONATHAN MIRANDA, headpiece PHILIPP SHCHEKIN

JUTE MAGAZINE • 91


NO FIMAGE photographer: ELISABETH BROUGH, designer: KAILA POWELL FRASCO hair/makeup: Timothy Willy, model: Emilie Turner

JUTE MAGAZINE • 92


JUTE MAGAZINE • 93


JUTE MAGAZINE • 94


JUTE MAGAZINE • 95


JUTE MAGAZINE • 96


JUTE MAGAZINE • 97


Bouquet of Thougts and

Artistry

photographer: ERICH CAPARAS, designer/art director: FRANCESCA GREENWOOD (HEADDRESS BY FRANCESCA) hair/makeup: Lucrecia Suarez, model: Olga Chulgareva

JUTE MAGAZINE • 98


JUTE MAGAZINE • 99


JUTE MAGAZINE • 100


JUTE MAGAZINE • 101


JUTE MAGAZINE • 102


JUTE MAGAZINE • 103


dress MAJA KOTALA, jewelry MAJIQUE, shoes BRONX

JUTE MAGAZINE • 104


GEO photographer/stylist: AMY NELSON-BLAIN, hair: MELISSA CAUCHI makeup: Amber Adams, model: Tiffany Winteler @ Louisa Models

dress MAJA KOTALA, jewelry MAJIQUE, shoes ELLENKA

JUTE MAGAZINE • 105


shirt, pants ADELE THIEL, jewelry MAJIQUE, shoes BRONX

JUTE MAGAZINE • 106


dress JESSICA HUGHES, jewelry MAJIQUE, shoes BRONX

JUTE MAGAZINE • 107


top LAUREN WEST, jewelry MAJIQUE

JUTE MAGAZINE • 108


jacket, pants GEMMA ANASTASIOU, jewelry MAJIQUE, shoes ELLENKA

JUTE MAGAZINE • 109


JUTE MAGAZINE • 110

photographer/art director: VOIR, designer/stylist: MARINA ZOJ hair/makeup: Melody Konstanti, model: Angelica Kotliar, assistant: Leobardo Trevizo

Darker Side of Light


JUTE MAGAZINE • 111


JUTE MAGAZINE • 112


JUTE MAGAZINE • 113


JUTE MAGAZINE • 114


JUTE MAGAZINE • 115


JUTE MAGAZINE • 116


Drama Queen photographer: TRACEY FRUGOLI, designer (clothing): DANA BALDWIN, designer (jewelry): SARAH JOHNSON hair: Debra Barnard, makeup: Kayla Pritchard using Urban Decay, model: Alexandra James photography assistants: Brittany Wagley, Renie Wheeler, Ed Coleman, hair assistant: Heather Otis

JUTE MAGAZINE • 117


JUTE MAGAZINE • 118


JUTE MAGAZINE • 119


JUTE MAGAZINE • 120


JUTE MAGAZINE • 121


JUTE MAGAZINE • 122


JUTE MAGAZINE • 123


Copenhagen Fashion Week photos by Inez Dawcyk

story by Features Editor Stefania Pruscino Copenhagen fashion week AW15 was a dynamic mix of high street fashion, glamour, and design. From innovative, interactive runways to the more conservative fashion shows we know and love, there was something for everyone this year. I, certainly, was entertained just by looking at the photos taken by our premiere fashion journalist, Inez Dawcyk. While most of the collections were remarkable in presentation, others did not quite live up to expectation. Here is our review of Copenhagen Fashion Week AW ’15.

see more of Inez’s work at inez-dawczyk.tumblr.com JUTE MAGAZINE • 124


JUTE MAGAZINE • 125


JUTE MAGAZINE • 126


Barbara I Gongini (Collection 5&22) “For AW15 Barbara I Gongini researches garment tactility. Layers appear as singular attributes, carefully shaping the structured yet languid silhouette. Apparent tailoring constructions are reassessed without compromising wearability. Boiled thick wool, sleek fur and sturdy leather are paired with breezy jersey, textured linen and graphic silks. A focus on hidden functionality is supported by underplayed colors of shading, here expressed through a sensory deep black, and variations of grey.” My personal favorite anecdotes were the graphics worn by girls and boys that read, “never on my knees,” and “down on my knees.” Something about playing with the idea of sexuality and yet having a collection be asexual really drew in the audience. This collection kept true to the brands aesthetic of experimental patternmaking whilst remaining suitable for both men and women. Bravo.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 127


Asger Juel Larsen (Postwar Collection AW15) The attitude of Asger Juel Larsen esthetic is ambitious, ambiguous, and charged with statements on both visual and emotional levels. He has become known for his adventurous style and conventional rulebreaking of modern menswear. For his AW15 collection he presented a mix of both the past and future, introducing a “quasi-Mad-Men-meets-sci-fi” look to Copenhagen fashion week. The focus of the collection was on the jacket, presented in various lengths, textures, and styles. This clash of ideas and styles plays to Asger’s idea of masculine strength and vulnerability, being both industrial and romantic, and taking the gothic and androgynous to new levels of sophistication and depth.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 128


JUTE MAGAZINE • 129


JUTE MAGAZINE • 130


DESIGNERS REMIX (Racing to the Past) Designer- Charlotte Eskildsen

“The collection is dedicated to the unapologetic free-spirited woman who is ready to race.” The 70´s inspiration is evident in choice of organic soft fabric such as tay rugs, corks, wood, furniture wool and key-styles of the decade such as flared pants, fitted coats, cropped tops, and tie ribbon shirts. Combined with elements from race-wear such as bodysuits, bomber jackets, and different types of quilt and waist belts, Charlotte Eskildsen has consistently catered for the female body. The impression of the collection is a confident woman, who wears a pantsuit by day and a delicate dress by night. She is the ultimate remix.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 131


FONNESBECH (A2 Collection) “ A2 is the second collection from the re-launched brand Fonnesbech. The inspiration for the Fonnesbech AW15 collection arises from a significant period in the Fonnesbech heritage when Anders Fonnesbech II, following the end of the First World War, took over the family business. With new visions for the future, he developed the company into what is now considered its prime. It was a time of transformation: artistically, socially and culturally, and the period became the prelude to functionalism in women´s wear. Women began leading a freer, more active life. Clear cuts, comfort and consciousness in clothing are the look and feel of the second Fonnesbech collection.” The inspiration and colors of the A2 collection can be found in the Cubistic art movement from that time period. Expressions come from an unusual color palette, including the main colors: dark blue, grey and green, with accent colors of purple and orange-red. My personal favorite piece was a long, flowing two-piece dress with slits cut midway up the center of the legs, adding a hint of sexiness to another wise conservative look. If the Fonnesbech DNA is based on high quality, high performance, and elegance, their revitalized launch is off to a great start.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 132


JUTE MAGAZINE • 133


JUTE MAGAZINE • 134


Henrik Vibskov (Messy Message Class Collection) “Welcome to a weird and wonderful world. Stirred up by visions of peculiar mind/body attitudes in the holistic health world, warped sounds pour out of a curtained room; unsetting anonymous hands touch you. Vibskov´s latest macrocosm is nothing short of a blood circulating presentation of outlandish muscle exploration. A 20-meter long mechanical installation has been constructed to hold 400 moving massaging hands where 12 vocalists are being rhythmically treated to an unusual massage. In the comfort of this curtained room, they accompany the music for the show with elegant, appreciative sounds of “AHHH”; a so-called human massage vocalpiano. Models wearing high headpieces with wobbly sweatbands tread through a catwalk maze of unstoppable health-giving hands. Doublefaced jersey is cut up and re-constructed, and 3d knit structures are created out of intricately assembled patterns.” To say this presentation was not dizzying display of structure and symmetry, meets graphics, meets oversized everything; I still found pieces I want and need to wear! It may not have all made sense, it may not have always worked together, but what did work was the quality of craftsmanship he put into each and every garment that walked down the runway. This was by far one of my favorite designers at Copenhagen and I cannot wait to see what he has in store for us next.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 135


FASHION HONGKONG “Three renowned Hong Kong fashion designers, Doris Kath Chan, KOYO William and Seth Yeung took part in the prestigious Copenhagen Fashion Week. Organized by the Hong Kong group show in Copenhagen City Hall, this was the only show presenting Asian designers during CFW.” DORISKATH has been known for its unique and exquisite designs that best capture the essence of the “every lady”. For CFW, Designer Doris Kath Chan presents her collection “Timeless Tale” which delights in its creative blend of modern and classical senses. With each evening gown in this collection, each lady begins her transcendence into becoming an immortalized piece of art that stands against not only against the flow of trends but time itself. The KOYO brand specializes in stylish European street fashion, with an European flair and Gothic Rock as its core design elements. KOYO William’s collection “Gothic Techno” represents new concepts of tailoring, complementing its otherwise hyper-glamorous style, a style that is further contaminated by sporty moods and street influences. Seth Yeung, while focused on heading his own eponymous knitwear and fur label, has consistently produced tight collections with quirky unconventional materials and combinations. His collection “Extracting” will tell us just that: to create is to absorb; extract and destroy; composition follows decomposition. The tension from extraction paves the way for desire, expansion and flair. This slow yet arduous process fabricates movement and line: the source of this collection.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 136


JUTE MAGAZINE • 137


JUTE MAGAZINE • 138


IVAN GRUNDAHL Ivan Grundahl’s latest collection was a mixture between space age, the 70’s, and disaster. The color palette was non-existent, the looks went un-styled, and worst of all: the proportions. One model went down the runway with three scarves, oversized gloves, a latex midi skirt, red tights, and combat boots! It’s not to say that all of the looks were as horrendous, but the entirety of the collection was disconnected at best.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 139


MADS NØRGAARD (Bright and Bold Collection) As said by the designers: “With the casting we were looking for interesting characters: models mixed with real people - regardless of age, ethnicity and gender. We want to put real life on the catwalk rather than putting on a traditional fashion show. Berlin, Bowie and the Bauhaus Archive were the starting point for the collection and as always we had a wish to combine sporty and elegant, relaxed and sharply suited. The question we asked is: how does one look fresh and modern, yet at ease with oneself and world?” My thoughts? “80’s Glam for girls and boys, minus the face paint.”

JUTE MAGAZINE • 140


JUTE MAGAZINE • 141


JUTE MAGAZINE • 142


Veronica B. Vallenes (Black Diamonds) The Veronica B. Vallens Winter 2015 collection, Black Diamonds, combines elegant silhouettes with overarching references of the seventies. The blending of the finest silk and heavy alpaca wool creates an exciting mix of functionality and sensuality, both being important characteristics of the contemporary Scandinavian wardrobe. The collection also boosts a keen eye to the use of proportions and fabrics with each look clean and slender, presented through long dresses, and below-the-knee skirts and silky robes. The restrained color palette and accessories, like the satin scarves and turtlenecks that highlight the neckline, added to the conservative yet luxuriouslooking collection.

JUTE MAGAZINE • 143


JUTE MAGAZINE • 144


DREAMS EMBODIED photographer: JIAJIA TAN, designer: VANESSA XIE hair: Phoenix Ly, makeup: Lidiya Kaplun model: Emma Sawatzky @ Scene Models, assistant: Kevin Leong

JUTE MAGAZINE • 145


JUTE MAGAZINE • 146


JUTE MAGAZINE • 147


JUTE MAGAZINE • 148


JUTE MAGAZINE • 149


FOLLOW US:

SUBMISSIONS:

www.jutefashionmagazine.com

JUTE MAGAZINE • 150

Jute Magazine - Volume XIX Part 1  

Jute magazine celebrates the individual fashionista. It’s about fashion at all levels and finding your own style by mixing and matching. We...

Jute Magazine - Volume XIX Part 1  

Jute magazine celebrates the individual fashionista. It’s about fashion at all levels and finding your own style by mixing and matching. We...