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MAGAZINE PLEASANT SENSE OF FASHION INJECTION
Photographer Jane Minaeva Model Kye Howell Stylist Janet Gomez
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contributors contributors
R h i a n n o n B r a c k p o o l J a n e M i n a e v a J u d i t h S c h i l t z N i c o l a B a c c h i l e g a J O S H U A D A V I D P A Y N E L e e H e y J i Z h a o H o n g J i a n M i c h a e l I v n i t s k y C e l e s t e R u s s o M a l k i e l l a B e n c h a b a t M i a A l e k s a n d r a L u k a Ä? a n d M a t e j a L u k a Ä? H a n a A r d e l e a n & J e n D i o n n e O l g a U s h S u n g H e e M o o n E l e o n o r a d ’ A n g e l o S A M P L E - C M C h o i S u n g w o o k T h i j s i e n a
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this issue
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GOOD MORNING
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SPRAWL ABSENCE
INTERVIEW
LANGUID AEROBICS A BEAUTY SHOP BOTANI
INTERVIEW
MODERN FARM NINJA-SPIRIT M. FICTION
NOTHING ELSE SLEEP TIGHT
LIGHT MY FIRE SWORDFISH INTERVIEW UNTITLED
WAITNIG FOR YOU
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Rhiannon Brackpool
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Jane Minaeva
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Judith Schiltz
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Nicola Bacchilega
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JOSHUA DAVID PAYNE
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Lee Hey Ji
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Zhao HongJian
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Michael Ivnitsky
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Celeste Russo
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Malkiella Benchabat
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Mia Aleksandra and Mateja Lukač
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Hana Ardelean & Jen Dionne
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Olga Ush
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SungHee Moon
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Eleonora d’Angelo
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SAMPLE-CM
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Choi Sungwook
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Thijsiena
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ADV
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & FOUNDER Ekaterina Dokuchaeva ART DIRECTOR Nikita Eliseev EDITORIAL editorial@just-magazine.com ADVERTISING info@just-magazine.com
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May 25, 2018 How many times did you just thought “that’s the thing!” and then it flows away as many other thoughts in five minutes to sleep? Using the colorful monologues with yourself as your personal therapist is not as bad as you might suspect, that’s what we’re doing right now. First of all, you don’t have to catch every possibility, you’d better choose the one you’d really enjoy. Second is your advertisement friendliness and general convictions. Health is not only the beauty itself as it shown us by billboards in every single way by consuming thousands and thousands of stuff. If you’re enjoying the tasteful adverts while going to a dull work maybe you should go into something creative. Oh, I just I just came up with an idea about a sitcom where some man or woman (sorry for being intolerant to other creatures) will be...oh sorry, I lost a thread. To the point of intolerance! Isn’t it make you some kind of freak if you’ve been hired for a job only because of your race or gender? Hey, we needed more of the nonbinary and a trans man immediately! Otherwise, they will sue us, ha-ha. I’ve got a really insane movie scenario for that too. The neural network now is not just a smart Google search. Is it okay to let the robot making calls instead of the people with social anxiety or we should just stop on talking shit emoji? Nobody knows... We’re at the beginning of our century, let’s be honest, it’s not cool this much. Of course, we are not afraid of technology, making progress is always cool. But aren’t we losing ourselves while doing less? Guess not, you’ll decide for yourself next time. Well, hello, can a make a patent for my sculptures of dumplings, please? Сopyrights are just the invisible membrane inside of the egg, while you breaking the shell of your creativity and pour the egg of your soul into the roasted pan of the Internet. The new sport is like the new internet will bring you this and that or maybe not, ow screw you damned hope! Anyway, we should try to go down to the tennis court tho’ and make it up like yeah. Crack your shell and let it out or keep it for yourself, what’s the best way to communicate with your internal beast? What if we took that curiosity and turn into a life energy? In any case, the hardest stone to move is your self-perception. Damn, I should enlarge this text a bit more, maybe for half a thousand symbols. Are paragraphs not separated by any sense? Or maybe not. I don’t care. I can compose a megaenergetic tracklist for you if you want. Imagine you’re having a really desirable glass of wine with the wholehearted kind of cheese at the end of the day. You make the first bite and it’s so incredible. Truly enjoying the process you making another bite and a sip again. Still good. But then comes another bite and you can feel that the taste became some kind of poisonous, you just can’t feel it anymore, the wine is just super sour and cheese is acrid on the taste. Here is you have to stop anytime with anything. It doesn’t make you inconstant, It’s just about enjoying things when we talk about health: mental and physical. In any other cases you’d better be inspired and diligent. You know… Life is easy when you know where exactly to put your ambitions to. Sure, you made an exertion of your will and voilà! Oh, no, hold on, not that easy, buddy. Find a favorite YouTube channel to watch, find a grocery store to shop the healthiest food, find a right friend to chat and the pretty creature to pet, purchase the qualitative humidifier at last! (not a sponsor) The main thing is not to rape your nervous system by forcing yourself to do healthy stuff, it’s not gonna be healthy by all means. So, you’re doing the right things day by day and gaining more and more wholesome goodnesses into your life until you die shortly in some freaky occasion like that rabbit who escaped the cat. But let us suppose here’s another story. And now you are this much beautiful and that much successful, how do you feel? You starting to burst into tears of joy and happiness, now you see, anything is possible. While living the whole life in just two minutes, shaking your eyeballs and holding the pillow tight... and then it starts again. I love you with all your guts and shit. Hope you’ll be the same non-picky. But you’d better go into a sport at least twice a week.
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Creative Director / Set Designer: Rhiannon Brackpool (rhiannonbrackpool.com, @rhiannonbrackpool) Photographer: Jamie Waters (jamie-waters. uk, @jamie_a_waters) Hair Stylist and Make Up Artist: Amber Stack (amberjstack.com, @amberjstack) Stylist: Daniel Gray (danielanthonygray. com, @daniel_a_gray) Styling Assistant: Cerys Law (@cerys_law) Lighting: Gabriel Monteregge (@gabisreal) Models: Joana Bravo (joanabravoart.wixsite. com/portfolio, @theycallmejoana) and Conchur Woods (conchurwoods.com, @conchurwoods)
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JUMPER THOMSON LI
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JUMPER TRAID VINTAGE TROUSERS 1X1
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DRESS IAN RICHARDSON ACCESSORIES CIVILIAN LONDON
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< DRESS IAN RICHARDSON ACCESSORIES CIVILIAN LONDON
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Sprawl Model: Kye Howell @kyehowell Photographer: Jane Minaeva @zhenyaminaeva Stylist: Janet Gomez @janetgomez www.janetdgomez.com Hair/ Makeup: LaQuisha Seams @lnseamsmua www.LaQuishaSeams.com Shoot location:â&#x20AC;¨DTLA
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DRESS @NIKATANGSTUDIOS
SHIRT @NIKATANGDESIGNS PANTS @BRASHYSTUDIOS SHOES @IAMZVELLE
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PANTS SHIRT @NIKATANGDESIGNS SHOES @IAMZVELLE
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DRESS @NIKATANGSTUDIOS SHOES @CALVINKLEIN #205W39NYC EARRINGS VINTAGE
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Photography : Judith Schiltz @judithschiltz Talent : Esther Gomis @Women @esther_gomis Creative direction & Styling : Samuel Bardaji @samuel.bardaji Grooming : Sumiyo Kyoshima @sumiyo_hair_make
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> TOP, STYLIST’S OWN PANTIES, STYLIST’S OWN TIGHTS, FALKE
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TOP, STYLIST’S OWN PANTIES, STYLIST’S OWN GLOVES, GERORGE MORAND TIGHTS, FALKE
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TOP, STYLIST’S OWN PANTIES, STYLIST’S OWN TIGHTS, WOLFORD
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TOP, STYLIST’S OWN PANTIES, STYLIS’S OWN TIGHTS, FALKE SOCK, FALKE GLOVES, GEORGE MORAND
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TOP, STYLIST’S OWN PANTIES, STYLIST’S OWN TIGHTS, WOLFORD SHOES, STYLIST’S OWN
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> TOP, STYLIST’S OWN PANTIES, STYLIST’S OWN TIGHTS, WOLFORD
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BODY, WOLFORD SUSPENDERS, STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OWN TIGHTS, FALKE
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Fashion designer
Borne of a distinguished caliber, Italy’s craftsmanship has long been established within the realms of design, and at the forefront of all that is contemporary; Nicola Bacchilega is consistent in embodying the artisanship synonymous with Italian culture. Since establishing, asymmetrical proportions and femininity have defined Bacchilega’s designs, with his AW18/19 collection revered by innovation and his interest in elevating the modern woman to a deity-worthy status. Bacchilega’s impressive knack for narrative transcends beyond idea development and is prominent in the finalised outcome, with this season’s story centered on ‘Libertas’. Libertas; Latin for Liberty, is the Roman goddess and embodiment of liberty, and a significant reference for Bacchilega’s latest collection, which sees an elevation in his avant-garde approach to deconstructed forms and exaggerated volume. With a golden corset-
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esque harness over a black leather bodice, and armor inspired tops, the collection maintains an irrepressible Goddess-like aesthetic. In every season thus far, Bacchilega has utilised his formative architectural background. Geometric elements run rampant throughout the structured silhouettes, asymmetrical hems and protruding textures. His ability to retain softness whilst using strong, durable materials is a testament to Bacchilega’s fondness for unconventional design. Nicola Bacchilega continues to declare his proclivity for embellishment by experimenting with gold, as seen in previous collections, through a ceramic process pertained to his hometown, Faenza, Italy. As a brand that frequently references the cultural aspects of an environment: whether it be conjuring a Marrakech getaway, or aquatic childhood memories in Faenza, Nicola Bacchilega has centered his sustainable AW 18/19 collection on the use of upcycled
materials. Synonymous to Bacchilega’s brand, structured dresses are heavily embellished, knitwear is severely cropped to deliberately enhance the scantily clad female form, and gold ceramics immerse a floor length overcoat. Bacchilega’s supreme creativity to construct pieces that reflect his most heartfelt influences, and his understanding of shapes, were the undeniable factors to the success of the collection. It is the distinctive pairing of novel thinking, with projecting the archetypal Italian femininity of impeccable tailoring and daring necklines, that propels Nicola Bacchilega to continue flourishing.
Written by Nahuel Contreras
Photographer : Andrea Piffari MUA and hair: Nicoletta Neri Set designer: Stefano Brienza
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COLLECTION AW18/19 LIBERTAS (NOUN FEMININE) LOOKBOOK
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Tell us briefly about yourself and your history as a creative. Do you remember the moment you fell in love with clothing design? I was born and raised in Faenza, Italy, a town that boasts one of the world’s richest heritages in ceramics dating back to ancient Roman times. Growing up in a town that prides itself in having developed a craft into an art form, I developed a keen interest in fashion which allows me to marry my curiosity for different design techniques with my creative vision. I studied sculpture in Turin at the Academy of Fine Arts, where I was experimenting with new shapes that could transform the body. It was then that I realised that my work naturally translated into fashion. Since then, at the time I was 21, my only thought has been to create clothes and experiment with new materials. What is the concept behind your AW18-19 collection and what would you like to tell us about it? The concept behind the collection “Liberates: noun feminine” is a celebration of women’s new found emancipation in the society of
today; it is my way to say thank you to all the women that fight for their rights, who believe in a better future, fashion activists (as I like to call them) who wear sustainable artisanal artworks, a contemporary luxury, a different kind of luxury for a new generation. Refined sensuality against the backdrop of romantic femininity is the theme of this collection that yells a message of empowerment, confidence and self determination. Forms, colours, volumes and embellishment reinforce the concept of a confident modern woman, who is not scared to show off. Each garments has been made with up-cycled materials and sustainable fabrics produced in Italy by experienced Italian women with love, celebrating traditional craftsmanship. Where do you live and how does it influence your work? At the moment I’m working all over the place but luckily receive great support by few fellow artists in Italy and UK that let me work in their studio. La Vie Bohème. I’m moving between London and Italy, which is where things happen. Exhibitions, museums, networking and opportunities to collaborate inspire my
design the most. I want to be able to express myself freely through the art of fashion. I have the desire to travel the world and discover new perspectives which I can then translate into my work. What challenges did you face when designing and producing the latest collection? Timing and cost. I always struggle with times as I change my mind very often and am never happy with the outcomes and budget is never enough when you are trying to emerge and want do more. Is there a type of person you have in mind when designing your clothes? Who would you like to see wearing them? Each collection has been designed for a specific type of woman, in particular AW18 has been imagined for someone that wants to spread a message: WOMAN ARE FUCKING BRILLIANT! In all their facets.
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We already know that fashion is an important means to explore any provocative and activist ideas for you, so how did you do politics with your design and how would you describe your overall aesthetic? There is a hidden message between the fibres that create the shapes of my creations which in a few words are a contemporary interpretation of past traditions, show a reverence for cultural references and give a stylistic representation of alternative romance. Can you talk us through your design process a bit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is it some kind of innovative? My design process has always been a bit unconventional as the way I link idea s together comes from my dreamwork and imagination. Really my collection always relates to a personal journey that transcends the mundane, into a vision of the future, where art and style move to the realms of fantasy. As a recurring homage to Faenza tradition, my designs aspire to sculptural ideals so Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m trying to apply self-made ceramics and experiment with new ways to link these to fashion, which is quite challenging. What fascinates you about the art world today? Which designers or artists have been the most influential to you? Art is becoming performance art and installation nowadays which means experience, so what you see leaves you questioning and think further with room for your own interpretation and I think that is great! My fashion goddess is Iris van Harpen who I find very inspiring but I also admire Roberto Capucci and his sculptural dresses, and how could I forget the Haute Couture of John Galliano and Alexander Mcqueen? Rai Kawakubo, I love dearly, and the master Cristobal Balenciaga is one of my main inspirations.
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Nicola Bacchilega AW17 featured on vogue.it Photographer LUCA ANZALONE Set designer HELLA KECK Set designer assistant AMIE PATERNOSTER Hair DELPHINE BONNET Makeup MATTIE WHITE using @RMK Styling ANDREEA G. RADOI Styling Assistant IGNACIO DE TIEDRA Fashion writer NAHUEL CONTRERAS Model BELLA TILBURY @ IMG MODELS
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How do you think technology changes and social media is affecting fashion nowadays? Fashion is becoming so immediate through IG and people want to see and buy now. The reality is that designer are in the hand of influencers, so the more money you invest the higher the sales. Although the future to me is to create collections linked to instant demand production in order to reduce overproduction but still giving the chance to consumers to buy quality and uniqueness. I hope one day people will take more care of garments and the culture of buying and throwing away will slowly disappears; there is no reason to change your wardrobe all that often if you have style. Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? I’d love to see my work shot by Harley Weir.
I’m also very attracted by how video can express the essence of a concept. I recently had the opportunity to collaborate with Samuel Stephenson for my SS18 fashion film. Samuel is Solve Sundsbo’s video maker, a photographer that admire a lot; I’m definitely flattered to see my work shot by a master photographer. What’s next for you? Your №1 goal in 2018? I’m currently working on a few projects. One of them will involve a collaboration with a performance artist I love but I can’t say anything yet, as I am very superstitious. My 2018 goal is to gain fashion independence and focus just on my collection, now I’m working on SS19 following the motto “In a room full of people, want yourself first” - Grace Jones. I truly believe fashion makes statements and through wearing it you are fighting for who you are we should all be proud of ourselves.
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PHOTOGRAPHER: JOSHUA DAVID PAYNE STYLIST: MEGAN ANN MANDEVILLE HAIR STYLIST :JUNKO HIRAKOSE MAKE UP ARTIST : TAMAYO YAMAMOTO MODEL 1 : ANTONIA BOO @ELITE LONDON MODEL 2 : SIDNEYENGELHARD @ELITELONDON
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ONSIE CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOYFALKE POP SOCK SHOES ISA ARFEN X CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA
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FULL LOOK MULBERRY
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> ONSIE CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY FALKE POP SOCK SHOES ISA ARFEN X CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA
ONSIE CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY FALKE POP SOCK SHOES ISA ARFEN X CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA
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[Photo] [Model]
Lee Hey Ji @mezi.i Amira @aaamira
[Fashion] [Hair]
Choi Eun Nyeong @ann_nyeong Ahn Hyung Gyu @brogyu
[Make-up] [Assistant]
Shin Easy @easyid_ Choi Min Goo @meeingoo / Seo Yeong Hyun @1111seo
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TOP BLUEERROR SCARF BLUEERROR
Photographer Zhao HongJian @hongjianzhao Stylist Liu RuiJia Makeup & Hair Irina Liu @irinaliumakeup Model Ksenia @ksusha_mazan Nastya K Assisstant XinRan Feifei Wardrobe: Blueerror @lizzielly SuperR @welovesuper_r Espiegle @helloespiegle Evenvintage @evenvintage GeorgesSylvia @george_sylviashoesdesign
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Photographer
MICHAEL IVNITSKY www.michaelivnitsky.com
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My father was an avid amateur photographer, I remember loving the smell of his Zenit’s leather case as a kid. I played around with cameras since something like 20, first an old automatic Konica point and shoot and then a pentax k1000, shooting my day to day life. In retrospect the pictures were crap but I had fun. Where do you live and how does it influence your work and how would you describe your personal style? I live in Tel Aviv, it’s a very vibrant and modern city with great seaside, food and nightlife. A lot of people from all over pass through here so I try to get the better looking ones on film. I was born in Russia, and used to live in Ireland for a bit What fascinates you about the art world today and what are your main inspirations? I’m very old fashioned, so I like old stuff, it’s super banal so I’d rather not to go into this. There’s a very nice photography thing going on in Ukraine right now, so I follow the young talent from there, like Kristina Podobed and Vitalik Melnikov off the top of my head.
(Sticks and stones)
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"IM VERY OLD FASHIONED"
Tell us briefly about yourself and your history as a creative. Do you remember the moment you fell in love with photography?
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Michael Ivnitsky
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Can you remember the first photograph you ever took? Unfortunately, no. Many of your photos are set outdoors or people’s apartments. What are some of the most interesting places you have visited? A scary drug dealer’s apartment in Amsterdam, a few artists studios (more or less known) a chicken slaughterhouse, a studio in a turn of a century Moscow apartment with 4m ceiling and newspapers from the twenties used as a base
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to get wallpaper on the walls(from the same period), a dive bar from the thirties with a squat toilet and three generation of owners working the tap the eldest having a concentration camp serial number tattoo on his arm, abandoned movie theatre with 80ies soda ads and torn film in the projection room(the tin drum) and syringes from homeless squatters carpeting the floor. Who are the people in your photographs? What genre of photography do you most involved in?
Models, friends and acquaintances. Sometimes strangers, depends on the situation. I don’t know about genres, but I have a soft spot for naked people. What is the best thing about using a film camera for you? It’s the ones I own so I’m hardly the one to compare to digital.
(Contributor magazine)
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FOR NAKED PEOPLE" 103
Daria Alexandrova (Sticks and stones)
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How do you think technology changes and social media is affecting photography? It helps me get collaborators and publishers, sometimes clients, so I’m all for it What would you like to see more of in the world right now? People not being afraid to have fun Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? Anyone who isn’t stale or just about money, like Balenciaga\Gosha\Vetements is nice, but the hype is so artificial. What’s next for you? Any glorious projects lined up?
Daria Alexandrova (Sticks and stones)
Have a big one I’m working on, and always on the prowl for magazine style stuff and making prints for clients.
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www.michaelivnitsky.com
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MODERN FARM Photography & Retouch: Celeste Russo @cel_russo Stylist: Johy Turek & BelĂŠn Stratta at Weekend Studio @weekendestudio Make Up: Dolores Zuccaro @doloreszuccaromakeup Hair: Pola Amengual for Vardo Management @polaamengual for @vardomanagement Art Direction: Johy Turek & BelĂŠn Stratta at Weekend Studio @weekendestudio Models: Lucila Micaela & Maga Falkowski at Jump Model Management @lu_micaela & @magafalkowski at @jumpmodels Special Thanks to William Kano & Study Store @williamkano & @studystoreph
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JACKET BRUNO GIORDANO SHIRT BELÃ&#x2030;N AMIGO
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DRESS BIORDER NECKLACE & BAG WEEKEND STUDIO
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DRESS BRUNO GIORDANO GLOVE LORENA PERAZZO GLASSES WEEKEND STUDIO
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SKIRT JORGE FASHION & TAILORING ACCESORIES LORENA PERAZZO
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DRESS BIORDER NECKLACE & BAG WEEKEND STUDIO
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JACKET BRUNO GIORDANO SHIRT BELÃ&#x2030;N AMIGO
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JACKET, WAISTCOAT & DRESS WEEKEND STUDIO
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> FACE COVER- PRIVATE COLLECTION NYLON SUITE LINOR KAHLANI BOOTS DOLLS KILL SKI MASK- SHUK HACARMEL SKIRT MUNISA VINYLE STRAPS MUNISA PLATFORMS MUNISA BODY SUITE- ICE T FOR H&M
Photography Malkiella Benchabat @malkiella_b Styling Noy Munis @m_unisa Yuval Lasri @yuvalla Make up and Hair Dana Bracha @dana_dblessing_mua Models Noga Komar @noko____ Lihi Rabinovich @lihi.rabinovich
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MODELS: NOGA KOMAR AND LIHI RABINOVICH SKI MASK- SHUK HACARMEL SKIRT MUNISA VINYLE STRAPS MUNISA PLATFORMS- MUNISA BODY SUITE ICE T FOR H&M FACE COVER PRIVATE COLLECTION NYLON SUITE LINOR KAHLANI BOOTS- DOLLS KILL
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SKI MASK SHUK HACARMELSKIRT MUNISA VINYLE STRAPS MUNISA PLATFORMS MUNISA BODY SUITE ICE T FOR H&M
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FACE COVER PRIVATE COLLECTION NYLON SUITE LINOR KAHLANI
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NYLON SUITE LINOR KAHLANI BOOTS DOLLS KILL
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HAT MUNISA TOP MUNISA CORSET PRIVATE COLLECTION BODY SUIT YUVAL LARSI HAT MUNISA COAT MUNISA
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M. FICTION FASHION FROM SLOVENIA
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PHOTOGRAPHER URŠKA PEČNIK
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PHOTOGRAPHER MARIJO ZUPANOV
Tell us briefly about the brand and your history as a creative. How did you discover an interest in fashion design?
and details. Exploring forms, playing with construction and deconstruction and examining new shapes.
Our names are Mia Aleksandra Lukač and Mateja Lukač, sisters and fashion designers from Slovenia. We work in fashion together and have established our own brand called M. Fiction.
What is the concept behind your SS18 collection and what are your favorite pieces?
After graduating from high school of Economics, we quickly realized that this is not what we want to do with our lives. We wanted a job where you can be more creative, express yourself and enjoy the working lifestyle. Above all we wanted to work together, so this is where our journey began. We both studied fashion in Slovenia and United Kingdom. After that, we decided to start a brand together. Today we create pieces with emphasis on silhouettes, which are refined with fresh and unexpected combinations of materials, colors
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Our collection is based on balance between dreams and reality. Exploring why and what people dream about, how different their dreams are and do they even remember them? The way we act, think, feel and observe in real life reflects in our dreams. It’s all about taking all of the emotions and putting them into something real. Every piece is made with love, so it’s hard to choose your favorite. But maybe we would choose: red lace vinyl trench coat, silver faux leather coat and red faux leather coat. Because they were the hardest to manipulate and it took the most amount of time to create.
What challenges did you face when designing and producing the latest collection? The challenge was about finding good balance between art and practicality, but the biggest challenge was to manipulate the materials. How would you describe your overall aesthetic? As there’s two of you, was it difficult to initially decide on one aesthetic or concept for the brand? More is more! We like to play with different styles, colors and silhouettes! We both have very similar taste and visual language, so there was no problem with aesthetics and the concept. But we are still 2 different individuals, so we do interpret pieces in different way, which is just an extra bonus for our brand!
PHOTOGRAPHER MARIJO ZUPANOV
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Is there a type of person you have in mind when designing your clothes? Who would you like t o see wearing t hem? We always have in mind people who are successful, powerful and independent. They want to make a statement. These are also the people we want to wear our clothes.
Can you talk us through your design process a bit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; what are the key considerations? Our process always starts with a vision, basic idea of the collection. With moodboards we develop ideas, transferring the basic idea to paper in the form of a sketch. But there are always some changes after that. We add many samples while working, where new ideas are born. Throughout the process, we are able to find the best solutions.
After showing your latest collection, what did you learn about your creative process and how do you see your designs evolving? With every collection we always learn something new and grow. You have new experiences, skills, complications and solutions.
PHOTOGRAPHER MARIJO ZUPANOV
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PHOTOGRAPHER URŠKA PREMIK
What fascinates you about the art world today? We love the fact that art world today is very dynamic combination of concepts, methods and subjects. Changing traditional boundaries and making fresh and new definitions. How do you think, fashion is an important means to explore some social and political issues or other big ideas? We definitely see some reflections of that in fashion world. Especially today you can see more and more social and political influences involved. With fashion you can express yourself, no matter what issue it is. You show people your opinion about it in your own creative way.
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Who would you most like to collaborate with from within t he visual arts and fashion spheres? BÄST, Sterling Ruby, Jenny Holzer, Takashi Murakami, Katharina Grosse, Harley Weir … There are some of the artists we would love to collaborate with! What are your plans for the future? Any glorious projects/collabs lined up? We really enjoy doing fashion and we are very flexible. We have some projects and collaborations lined up. We will see what future will bring us!
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PHOTOGRAPHER URŠKA PEČNIK
Photographer.TIGER TIGER Hana Ardelean & Jen Dionne Stylist.Karolyn Pho Make-up Artist.Chanel Cross Hair Stylist.Matthew Cross Assistant.Jaclyn Midori
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Sensation, Emotion, and Texture Softness, comfort, relief, therapy, mental health, self-care, warmth, coziness, interactivity, stimulation, connectivity, people, joy, sadness, resilience, movement, stress, touch, bed, swaddling, covers, mattress, feeling. These are the ideas that feed into the philosophy behind the collection, Sensation, Texture, and Emotion. The collection began as a reaction to the current mental health epidemic and to the sense stress felt by the artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s generation, as she noted a trend toward depression and unhappiness whether rooting from todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s polarizing political climate, environmental instabilities, or the general sense of doom that lurks from a fear of the unknown.
Photographer: Olga Ush (@olgaush.jpg) www.olgaush.com Models: Allegra Preuss (@a_lleg) & Paul Morland (@paulmorland) Designer: Sydney Loew (@sydneyloew) www.sydloew.com Stylists: Elena Lizza (@elenalizza) and Jeffrey Roy (@jroyjr)
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Photographer SungHee Moon @biuti_ful Model Viktoryia Radoshko @kosmyjaaam Stylist MinJi Kim @minjiena Hair & Make up Hwang Ryungkyung @ryungkyungc
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< TOP & SKIRT FOREVER21 SHOES DITOLE
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SWORDFISH Photographer: Eleonora dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Angelo @eleonora__dangelo site: eleonoradangelophoto.tumblr.com Stylist and Art Director: Veronica Carmen Massa @veronicacarmenmassa Hair Stylist: Ornella Bottiglieri @orn_ya Makeup: Federica di Dato @fede.didato Studio: Cross Process Studio @robertolaurent Model: Antonella Iengo at 3mmodels @3mmodels @anto_iengo_model
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JACKET HUMMEL - SHIRT TRUE DECADENCE UK - DRESS GLAMOUROUS UK
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SHIRT GLAMOROU S UK - DENIM NTMB - SHOES STYLIST OWN
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BODY LAVISH ALICE - JACKET FUIR - SHOES GUCCI ARCHIVES
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SAMPLE-CM n i s s a b Ggrand
Grand Bassin* kits by sample-cm Berlin. Emerging as spiritual athletes. Unapologetic humans. Uncompromising experts and offside champions. You claim having a mind of your own. Demanding high quality and cutting edges. You are requesting sharpness. Daring innovation and expecting contrast. You feel impulse. stepping end* and
like getting off the bench. Awakening your Berlin Pooling your skills and riding the punch. You risk into the Grand Bassin fields. Jumping in at the deep joining the team.
Now fitting your equipment. Strapping your gear, modulating your kit and making it your own. You keep strengthening your talent. Mastering your uniqueness and sporting your way. Created in 2015 by Margot Charbonnier, who graduated in sociology and fashion from Central Saint Martins. Sample-cmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grand Bassin* kits are made exclusively in Berlin-NeukĂślln Germany. sample-cm.com @sample.cm
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GRAND BASSIN SS18 BY SAMPLE -CM The SS18 Grand Bassin collection unites equipment and design pieces. Sample-cm is bringing a fresh take to our Berlin sportswear perspective as the collection layers and incorporates functionality into both womenswear and unisex garments.
Pairing, matching, combining. The pieces from the collection are designed to be worn in formation, under and within one another, creating an interactivity that has become a signature of the Grand Bassin philosophy. With this season comes new moves and game strategies for the sporting tribe, both to transform their Grand Bassin pieces and to mobilise them into action.
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Hi Margot, how’s your working process doing? We are trying to talk about sport this time and your brand is really sporty… So, what is your favourite kind of sport for now if any? What is the concept behind your latest collection and how would you describe your brand DNA? Our main line ‘Grand Bassin’ is indeed designed as a multi-sport field questioning the sport beliefs, cultures and potentials of individuality.
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For each collection, we explore a specific sport aesthetic and its practices. We collect material, moods but also gestures, expressions, techniques, drama, rituals. The collection is then designed around a specific gesture and a specific tech detail. For example AW17, about gymnastics, was designed with an interactive piece rolled, wound around the body using satin ribbons. The SS18 about team sports offered small functional equipment and jersey t-shirts built up together as a gear.
Currently for AW18, we have been working on outdoor sports (climbing, trekking, hiking, alpinism…). We have developed clothing and equipment interlaced together using a backpack zigzag cord detail. We have also produced two new scarf designs with patterns of historical climbing trails. So for the last months, I have been kind of immersed in this environment, having been to south of France to meet climbers and mountaineers and designing the collection.
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What does fashion mean to you? I believe sample-cm really has a design-related perspective of fashion, meaning the aesthetic of our pieces is conceptually linked to its ergonomics and its use. This has led me to design clothing as kits and I like to define our designs as radically functional! Furthermore, our main line ‘Grand Bassin’ has been designed as a whole project. None of the collections are completely independent like in traditional fashion, but they are all connected, responding to each other and building up the label as a field. So one of the most important aspect of our fashion is the scale of the whole project. How the campaign, graphic design, web and installations work together to reinforce the identity of the line. Our DNA is based on signature interactive sportswear and lies also in the completeness of our storyline. Can you talk us through your design process a bit – what are the key considerations? After studying and collecting small practices and interactions related to the seasonal sport but also to everyday interactions one can have with clothing, we balance and simplify these bold details with comfortable cuts.‘Grand bassin’ is really about this balance between easy sportswear and bold manifest pieces. We make conceptual ready to wear. Then, we offer the customers the opportunity to interact with the piece. They can unbuild, detach, recombine, or adjust their ‘Grand Bassin’ kits in many ways. Our customers can finally enjoy a kit for its comfortable cut or its strong storyline, or action it, make it their own, add their own singularity to the piece.
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The premium grand bassin kits by sample-cm are exclusively made in berlin, the capital of sportswear. Mounting, interlacing, scaling. The garments and equipment from our aw18 collection are designed to be roped together, creating an interactivity that has become the signature of the grand bassin philosophy. With this season comes new tools and new trails both to combine the grand bassin pieces and to mobilise them into action. Team. Photography. Hubert crabieres. Art direction. Hubert crabieres. Margot charbonnier. Styling. Margot charbonnier. Timothee faraus. Hair. Makeup. Daniela eschabacher. Photo assistant. Todor andreevski. Laetitia lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;heureux. Post production. Mario schimberni. Circus studio with the support of the freaks. Models. Marina. Yannis. Alice. Sophie. Xavier.
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Is there a type of person you have in mind when designing your clothes? Who is your dream client to dress? Our customers are spiritual athletes, reactive to the cultural narrative of the label, people who are somehow fascinated by the sport ideologies without being necessarily sporty themself. They are confident daring women, with strong and defined tastes, demanding in terms of quality and comfort. What has been your biggest achievement so far? We have presented our collections in Paris during the two latest Paris Fashion Weeks. It was a big challenge because we presented them on our own in an independant showroom. I am French but have been quite disconnected from the
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french calendar these last years, being based in Berlin with a London based PR agency. And it was a great experience, it was good to be back home and was a great surprise to see the reactivity of people, demanding difference and being very curious and enthusiastic. Our biggest achievement and satisfaction is to see how fast the label is growing, after starting from scratch and without any significant financial support.I am also very glad we are able to keep producing all of our pieces in Berlin for 6 collections now.
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How do you think technology changes and social media is affecting fashion nowadays? I feel Instagram, ( mostly in )being very visual, has a strong impact on the way fashion has been perceived lately. It might have something to do with the revival of the logomania in streetwear. For many labels, social media and internet are the only ways to be discovered, so I like to see it still as a good democratic tool. Though it has become very competitive, it is also a very good way to learn strategies to stand out from the crowd. What fascinates you about the art world today? Which designers or artists have been the most influential to you? Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? I am very attracted to artists with an interdisciplinary and spatial approach of design. I would love to collaborate with artists like Anne Imhof or with smaller studios such as Dennis Vanderbroeck at some point. What can we expect from you in the future? Your №1 goal in 2018? We are launching the sideline of the label at the end of the month in Berlin ! The line was born out of the idea to produce functional kits for Berliners, as we believe there is a very practical relationship to clothing in this city as well as a strong sportswear history in Germany. Our side line ‘GET YOUR BERLINER KIT’ includes ultra functional, fun and basic pieces related to the everyday practices of Berliners. A bottle bag to carry Club Mate, multi-pocket waist bags, multi-pocket jacket, a convertible biking top… The price range of the line will be also below our main line and available exclusively on our website sample-cm.com this summer. We will also continue the ‘Grand Bassin’ line and I can’t wait to announce the new sport inspiration of the upcoming season !
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UNTITLED
Photographer: Choi Sungwook @ilgusao Assistent photographer: Seok Hanuk @im_han Styling: Lee Kiwoon @_high_cloud Hair & Makeup: Kang Moonjung @moxoxon_ MEN Model: Park Seounheon @_hye0n WOMEN Model: Kim Sodam @damikimi all clothing DEFOND seoul @de_fond.official
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Photographer: @thijsiena_photography Stylist: Danny Muster @dannymusterworks Hair & Makeup: ana buvinic @ana.buvinic.mua Photography assistant: Elena Breuer @elenabreuerphoto Models: Inga @Seedsmanagment @ingajackson Johanna @Fazemodels @scoshannta
FLORAL BLOUSE LEMAGASS VINTAGE BERLIN BRACELET ELODIE CARSTENSEN DRESS LOU DE BETOLY
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SILVER PEARL EARRINGS LEMAGASS VINTAGE BERLIN BLACK/WHITE LATEX TOP LENA VOUTTA PANTS CECILIE GRÃ&#x2DC;NBECK SOCKS ADIDAS SANDALS ELODIE CARSTENSEN PIPE RINGS JMB JEWLLERY
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SILVER STRIPED EARRINGS ELODIE CARSTENSEN SILVER STRIPED EARRINGS USED ON TOP ELODIE CARSTENSEN BLUE SILVER GLITTER LUREX KNIT TOP LENA VOUTTA SPEC NECKLACE JMB JEWLLERY WHITE COAT ESTHER PERBANDT LATEX SHORTS ELODIE CARSTENSEN
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> BRACELET CHANEL BY NIGHTBOUTIQUE SOCKS ADIDAS SEE TROUGH RAIN HEEL BOOTS MIU MIU BY NIGHTBOUTIQUE
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