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fragrance | fashion | beauty

THE

Firuset Iss

Inspired New ways to wear vintage Makeup artists’ must-haves Fragrances: find your one


INSIDE

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Issue 1 The First Issue

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justbemagazine.com

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Upfront 4 6 8

Who We Are From The Editor 10 Things To Do Today

Fragrance 18

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The First Ingredient

How your perfume went from the fields to your dressing table. Scent Of Attraction

Find the perfect fragrance for each stage in your relationship. Scent For Him

This guide will ensure you buy him his next favourite sniff. THE ONE

What fragrance did the most glamorous ladies of Hollywood wear? Fashion 32

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The First Rule Of Fashion

Kellie Hush gives us advice on how to be someone with style. Time For A D&Em

These two girls are changing the fashion scene. Meet Nikki Phillips

You’re gonna love her. We do. At First Light

12 pages of dreamy fashion.

Behind The Screens Fashion

Inside three top bloggers’ wardrobes. Beauty 64 66

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Three Steps To Sexy

Yes, it is true, that’s all it takes. Beauty Pioneers

All kinds of awesome products that change the beauty world forever. Skin Feature

Still suffering pimples? Read this. Napoleon Dynamite

Make-up maestro Napoleon lets us into his world. Hairway To Heaven

Mia Timpano on her signature look.

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Cover Photography: Steven Chee @ DLM Hair & make-up: Victoria Baron for Ellis Faas @ RP Presents Model: Shanay @ Viviens Fashion editor: Gemma McFarland Shanay wears Canturi earrings

fragrance | fashion | beauty

THE

Firuset Iss

Inspired

New ways to wear vintage Makeup artists’ must-haves Fragrances: find your one


At First Light

Photography Steven Chee @ DLM Hair & Make-up Victoria Baron for Ellis Faas @ RP Represents Fashion Editor Gemma McFarland Model Shanay @ Viviens Vintage Madge jewel cardigan, $109. Elle MacPherson knickers, $55. Canturi diamond bracelet, $49,000 (worn throughout). All prices approximate; fashion details last page.


Vintage Madge silk shorts, $78. Harlequin Market

Karen Millen Bra, $149. Karen Millen boyshort, $74.95. Mrs Press sheer gown,

acqua necklace, $895. Stylists own head band.

$XXX. Canturi Regina Diamond and Cabochon Sapphire Ring, POA.


Vintage Madge bed cardigan, $220. Grandma Takes A Trip 1960s floral girdle, POA.


Vintage Madge silk shorts, $78. Harlequin Market necklace, $895. Stylists own head band.


Mrs Press ruffled shirt, $XXX. Grandma Takes A Trip high-waited bikini bottoms, POA. Canturi island lux broach, POA. Bracelet as before. Stylists own scarf worn as belt.

Elegantly Scant camisole, $85. Elegantly Scant briefs, $44. Canturi sphere necklace, POA. Canturi Regina pendant necklace, POA. Zambesi bracelets, POA.


Stockists Canturi canturi.com Elle MacPherson 1800 338 235 Grandma Takes A Trip 02 9356 3322 Harlequin Market 02 9357 4433 Vintage Madge 0404 108 626 Karen Millen karenmillen.com Kylie Hawkes kyliehawkes.com Mrs Press 02 9331 7732 Kylie Hawks dress, $XXX. Mrs Press knickers, $XXX. Bracelet as before.

Zambesi zambesi.co.nz


FIRST INGREDIENT

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The Art of Perfumery Words Jessica Carter

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hen I first saw Sofia Coppola’s Miss Dior Chérie perfume ad I knew, even before I smelt its sweet and fruity scent, that the Chérie was the fragrance for me. The girl flying above Paris on a bunch of colourful balloons, Eiffel Tower in the background, her pink dress floating around her knees: it all just smelt like my very own daydream. I wanted the glamour, adventure and Frenchness one spritz would surely give me. What is it that makes perfume so seductive? It’s almost magical how just one spray can instantly shower you with a fantasy, a feeling, or a memory? One morning, as I splashed myself with Chérie, I paused to wonder: what is the first step in making a perfume? Is the story of a scent quite as magical as the odour itself? The answer is a resounding yes, but the bottles of perfume that we keep on our dressing tables harbour far more secrets than the ones we keep. You see, while the very first ingredient in a bottle of perfume may be the fragrance of a sweet-smelling flower, it takes a lot of hard work to choose, grow and harvest that daydream of perfection. A tiny 30ml bottle of the 1929 classic, Joy by Jean Pateau, uses about 10,000 jasmine flowers, which would take at least three hours to be handpicked by an expert. Quite ironically then, you

could say that the first ingredient of perfume is none other than the antithesis to an alluring fragrance: sweat from good old fashioned hard work. In the beginning The use of perfume dates back to at least 3500 years ago, when it was traditionally connected with religion. The Ancient Egyptians were the first to use perfume, burning scented oils in sacred ceremonies and rituals to worship their gods. Perfume even gets a mention in the Bible when the three wise men bring frankincense and myrrh as a gift to the newborn baby Jesus. Perfume use declined with the fall of the Roman Empire, and re-emerged in France hundreds of years later. Perfume has a long history in France and, after frogs legs, it’s probably the next thing we’re most likely to associate with the land of the tricolore. There’s the Chanel, House of Guerlain, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Molinard, Hermes, Lancome, Christian Lacroix and Christian Dior, to name a few. If France is the nation of the nose, then Grasse is truly her capital. Nestled in the French Riviera, about 15 kilometres from glitzy Cannes, Grasse has been at the centre of perfume production for the world since the 16th century. Grasse and the surrounding areas

My Favourite Perfume

I love the mysterious scent of Narciso Rodriguez. It’s a dark, sexy fragrance that makes me feel empowered – like walking in skyhigh heels. I wear it to face a busy day in the office and as the final touch in completing my evening look. Nikki Hager Director of Peep Toe Shoes, peeptoeshoes. com.au


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My Favourite Perfume

are responsible for processing several million kilograms of flowers each year, worth something in the vicinity of billions of dollars in total. This region of France has emerged as a playground for perfumeries because the sunny climate and rich soils are ideal for growing the countless fields of violets, rosemary, orange blossoms, lavender and many other flowers needed to make the perfume. Prior to being the perfume capital of the world, the main industry in Grasse came from leather and tanning, their specialty being glove production. At the time, leather gloves were highly fashionable but could become quite smelly quite quickly (it wasn’t highly fashionable at the time to take a daily bath). So the people of Grasse seized the opportunity and began to produce sweet smelling gloves scented with a touch of perfume. By the 17th century, perfume was a booming industry and it has continued to grow ever since, uniting generations and nations with a multitude of desires and disguises.

Making scents But not all perfumes are created equal. A good fragrance depends on finding the right combination of notes (top, middle and base), and there are two ways a scent can be created. The traditional method is to source raw materials, like flowers and spices, and use a variety of processes to capture and bottle the aroma. Enfleurage was popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries but is no longer used, mostly because it involves far too much effort. Flowers would be placed on glass and coated in fat, and after three to seven days (though sometimes they could be left for as long as 60 days) the flowers would be removed and the now fragrant fats would be immersed in alcohol. This would produce the perfumes used in cosmetics and soaps. These days, distillation is more common. This involves placing the flowers in machines that produce steam, so the steam becomes scented. The scented steam travels to a cooling section where it becomes condensed by refrigeration. Later, this liquid

I’ve always loved warm, sexy amber and musk scents, because they seem to smell good on my skin. Whether they’re in the form of a body lotion, perfume or oil, they linger around me rather than engulf me. I go through phases of using a small variety of perfumes but always seem to return to Kiehls Original Musk – a scent I’ve been using for over 15 years! I’m actually wearing it right now and still love it after all this time. Gail Elliott Co-founder and designer of Little Joe Woman, LittleJoeNY. com

separates, with the scented oil rising to the surface of the water. The water and oil are separated and, et voila, we have perfume! Today the industry also turns to science for help. For example, perfumers can now clone the scent of blooms from which no oil could be extracted using traditional methods (think Marc Jacobs’ Daisy). Similarly, there’s also the ‘headspace’ method. This technique is particularly useful for highly rare plant species because it does not destroy the flower. Instead, a glass contraption creates a vacuum around the plant that transports the flower’s scent to another glass compartment where the fragrant oil can be collected. Chanel No. 5 was the first fragrance to be created with artificial chemicals when Chanel developed a synthetic musk. While synthetic scents are beneficial (they help give a fragrance ‘staying’ power), the importance of using natural fragrance remains, says Elisabeth de Feydeau, historian and cultural adviser to Chanel. “At Chanel, flowers rule, as the harvests follow each other in succession, providing the ylang-ylang of Comores in April, the roses in May and the jasmine of Grasse in September,” Elisabeth says. “Like a true craftsman, Jacques Polge [the

nose of Chanel] travels the world according to the seasons, choosing flowers ‘au flair’ that achieve a particular olfactive vibration.” The art of perfume Making perfume is like making art, although we don’t often think of it in this way. Perfumers learn how to capture and then compose the best collection of notes so that they can create a beautiful scent. Jean Carles, a French perfumer from last century, once said that a good perfumer is born, not made. “Many will answer the call but few will be chosen because those qualities needed to succeed can’t be taught, nor can the enthusiasm, the joy of living and creating, and the love of a trade,” Jean says. The first ingredient of perfume may indeed be sweat, but surely this only adds to its value. Those clear droplets of oil, extracted from millions of flowers hundreds of kilometres away, magically embody the essence of our fantasies, hopes and memories. But while memories might fade, their fragrances can be captured in a glass bottle. And re-created again and again for your pleasure, thanks to the delicate art of perfumery.

My Favourite Perfume

Philosykos by Diptique. I didn’t think I was a ‘oneperfume-woman’ until I discovered Philosykos about six years ago. I buy it over and over and it still makes me feel like I’m on a tropical holiday every time I wear it! Louise Bell Founder of Table Tonic, tabletonic. com.au

Paying homage to Paris Naming a fragrance after the most romantic city in the world is nothing new…

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Guerlain

Bourjois

Jean Desprez

YSL

Chanel

YSL

Balenciaga

Champs-Elysees

Soir de Paris

Bal à Versailles

Rive Gauche

31 rue Cambon

Parisienne

Paris


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MAKING SCENTS

Love at first waft

1. Vera Wang Glam Princess ($90, 50mL)

From first kiss to first dance, there’s a perfume to take you through every stage

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of your relationship.

If you could bottle ten-out-of-ten flirting, this is what you’d get. Confident top notes like crushed red currant, juicy guava and pear will get you noticed, while the smooth heart notes of liquid honey and vanilla orchid will have him hanging off your every word.

Best First Date perfume

2. Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionnelle ($99, 50mL)

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One whiff of this intoxicating fragrance and he’ll be sold. Lighter than the popular original signature eau de parfum, its aromas of lie de vin, pink pepper and Japanese osmanthus mix together to create a scent that’s like fine lace lingerie: delicate and oh-so seductive.

Best First Weekend Away perfume

3. Issey Miyake A Scent ($119, 50mL) Embrace your sense of adventure with this green fragrance that was inspired by the vastness of exotic Mongolia. It’s not overpowering (a bonus if you’re travelling in confined spaces) just extremely fresh and invigorating with gorgeous bursts of jasmine and musk to finish.

Best Drinks With the Mates perfume

4. Dolce & Gabbana 6 L’Amoureux ($99, 100mL)

The beauty of the D&G Fragrance Anthology line is their unisex appeal. While this is strictly speaking a cologne, it’s soft enough for you to wear, and his mates will love it thanks to the masculine birch leaf, musk and cardamom ingredients.

Best Meet The Parents perfume

5. Chloé Chloé Eau De Parfum ($130, 50mL)

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A lively and very pretty fragrance, Chloé opens with a palate of peony, lychee and freesia. Its base notes of amber and cedarwood balance out the rose, magnolia and lily of the valley. Ultra feminine, it’s guaranteed to appeal to his dad as much as his little sister.

Best Anniversary perfume

6. Jo Malone Blue Agava & Cacao Cologne ($140, 100mL) This fragrance makes you want to smile, perhaps because its chocolate notes are reminiscent of a delectable dessert shared between lovers. Inspired by the clapping and stomping of a fiery flamenco dance, this has plenty of passion and spice to keep things hot.

Best Moving In Together perfume

7. Alberta Ferretti Alberta Ferretti ($178, 75mL) Words HARRIET FARKASH

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Best Notice Me perfume

This perfume was inspired by the sensuality of a woman. With delectable top notes like Sicillian bergamont and freesia, it packs a punch with Casablanca lily, patchoui and amber. It’s a grown up fragrance, perfect for taking a big step in.

Best Marry Me perfume

8. Badgley Mischka Eau De Parfum ($135, 50mL) Badgley Mischka’s eau de parfum is as romantic and feminine as their couture wedding gowns. With a kiss of white peony and osmanthus flower, it fades into a charming mix of suede musk, caramel amber and Indian sandalwood.


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MAKING SCENTS

Scent for him No matter what kind of man you end up with, there’s a cologne out there that matches his personality perfectly.

1. Calvin Klein Euphoria Men ($95, 50mL)

The Sporty Guy

2. Lacoste Red ($84, 75mL) This is the ideal fragrance to toss into a gym bag because it’s a go anywhere, see anyone type of scent. Suitable for work or the pub, it’s fruity with floral hints thanks to patchouli and jasmine. Don’t worry though, icy wood and cedar keep it masculine and tough.

The Hipster

3. Kiton Black ($118, 75mL) You’re unlikely to catch a whiff of this luxurious fragrance on many men, which should make him happy. While the ingredients list the usual suspects like bergamot, cedarwood and vetiver, they ebb and flow, together with tonka bean, lemon violet and leather to create an aroma that’s as individual as him.

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The Intellectual

Like a good book, Euphoria starts off with a captivating introduction thanks to zesty aromas like ginger pepper and raindrop accord. It then takes some interesting turns with black basil and cedar leaf before ending with a cracking conclusion of creamy suede, patchouli, Brazilian redwood and amber.

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The Sophisticated Man

4. Tom Ford Grey Vetiver ($150, 50mL)

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Tom Ford describes Grey Vetiver as “… solid, like the man who wears a custom-made suit or invests in hand-crafted shoes.” Indeed, the deep, woody scent reeks of wealth and rich mahogany, but not in a bad way. Its fresh top notes of orange flower, grapefruit and sage, and its warm amber woods and oakmoss make it earthy and accessible.

The Arty Type

Burberry’s strength is in their design – hey, they’ve managed to make beige plaid desirable! This bottle, designed to look like a hip flask and etched with raised graphite of their signature plaid, is no exception. Inspired by the tunes of Razorlight, the Fratellis, Arctic Monkeys and Kasabian, arty types will appreciate its quirkiness and blokey notes of leather and Bourbon vetiver.

The Surfer

6. Bulgari Aqua Pour Homme ($99, 50mL) With a bottle reminiscent of coral living in the sea, Aqua Pour Homme is like spraying on the scent of the ocean. At first, it’s kinda fruity with orange tree leaves and zesty mandarin, but it’s the addition of Posidonia, an acquatic plant found at the bottom of the sea, that gives it its marine character.

Words HARRIET FARKASH

5. Burberry The Beat ($84, 50mL)

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