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ISSUE 3 NOVEMBER 2017

THE FIRST DIGITAL MAGAZINE JUST FOR DRESSMAKERS

Top tips to help you work with winter fabrics The best coat patterns around

AMY SINBALDI, designer behind Art Gallery Fabric’s first festive fabric collection MIMI GOODWIN, successful blogger and designer for Simplicity Patterns MARIE-EMILIENNE, founder of the French indie pattern company, I AM

Prepare to party Sew for the workplace

PLUS Tips to help you master the PDF sewing pattern!

WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM


Hello Winter With winter well on the way and the days getting shorter, this issue comes to you at a great time when you’re thinking about sewing for the colder weather. We would never have thought that The Pattern Pages was going to be the success story that it has been over the last two issues, so firstly we want to thank all our amazing supporters for this as without them it would not have happened. So here it is, issue 3. What’s in this issue you may ask? We’ve everything you need to update your wardrobe for this season in our winter wardrobe feature! The lovely couture dressmaker Jane White lays out her top tips to working with seasonal fabrics. We also catch up with some great names in dressmaking, Marie-Emiline the creator of I AM, Amy Sinbaldi one of the designers from Art Gallery Fabrics and the successful blogger and pattern designer Mimi G! This time, our sew the look features include party and officewear so we’ve put together some great patterns for you to make, love and show off your sewing skills.

Julie Bonnar

Hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed writing it!

Julie and Em

Emily Bonnar

Julie Bonnar Emily Bonnar

FRONT COVER Our beautiful cover features Simplicity 8439, we love this pattern as it doesn’t matter what size or shape you are as you can make it in sizes up to 28W.

The Pattern Pages is an independent digital dressmaking magazine that’s full of fashion, dressmaking, style and fun things to make

THE PATTERN PAGES

www.thepatternpages.com Twitter: @ThePatternPages Pinterest: www.pinterest/thepatternpages Facebook: www.facebook.com/thepatternpages Instagram: www.instagram.com/thepatternpages

EDITORS

DESIGNER

Julie Bonnar Emily Bonnar julie@thepatternpages.com

Sarah Barnes design@sbarnescreative.co.uk

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CONTENTS REGULARS Winter edit…

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T’is the season to sparkle

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Hooked on books

The best outerwear sewing patterns to up your game this cold spell!

On our radar Things we thought you might like to know….

We heart Christmas gifts What sewing treats would you like this year?

60-minute make Quick and easy weekend handbag

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Silver is a favourite colour for the festive season

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Sewing books that you’re going to want to have on your bookshelf

Pattern preview

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New sewing patterns hot off the press

Hot fabrics

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The latest fabric for this season’s sewing


MEET & GREET Maker’s in the spotlight Marie-Emilienne, the founder of the French indie pattern company, I AM

Designers in the spotlight

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STYLISH SEWING

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Winter wardrobe A look at what’s trending on the high street and ideas to sew

Amy Sinbaldi, designer behind Art Gallery Fabrics first festive fabric collection, Little Town

10 minutes with…. Tatiana Anninskaia from Dressy Talk

Passion to profit

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Sew the look – partywear

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Prepare to party with gorgeous patterns to take you from Christmas into the New Year

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Sew the look – Dressed for the office

Mimi Goodwin from the successful blog MimiStyle.com, and designer for Simplicity patterns

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Make your wardrobe work hard for those days at the office

TECHNICAL TALK Working with winter fabrics 18 Jane White, couture dressmaker, lays out her top tips for working with the most wanted winter fabrics

PDF Patterns 10 tips to start using digital sewing patterns at home

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Sew work chic This lovely doublebreasted full-length jacket is sure to show off all your dressmaking skills. The coat features beautiful topstitching on the lapel and collar, is fully lined, has patch pocket detail and notched collar. What more could you want in a jacket?

Burda Style

Cute ‘N’ Cosy Complete your winter warm look with this cute pom pom hat and mittens.

Oliver Bonas - Wool Blend Pom Pom Hat and mittens

The best coat sewing patterns to up your game this cold spell!

Cooler weather staple

Bell sleeves all the way

Chic and warm all in one. This glamorous coat pattern from Closet Case Files features raglan sleeves and an elegant unstructured A-line silhouette. Pair with some jeans and a pair of ankle boots for a warm winter look. A great coat for keeping warm during just about any occasion.

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Coat pattern 8469 ticks all the boxes with its on-trend bell sleeves. Go bold and make in your favourite wool fabric.

Closet Case Files – Clare Coat www.thepatternpages.com

Simplicity - 8469


SUMMER edit Become a crusader Definitely a pattern on the list to sew this winter. Make Designer Stitch’s Kerry Capelet in a cool check, plaid or in one of the on-trend winter colours.

Fleurine’s version of the Kerry Capelet, from sewmarie.com Kerry Capelet – Designer Stitch Wallis, wallis.co.uk

Simplicity - 8218

Velvet luxe Velvet is showing up everywhere – we love these red velvet ankle boots from Wallis, pair with one of the fab new coats you have made.

Stress-free shearling Sew this beautiful shearling jacket. What is great about this pattern it can be made in two different styles, a gilet or a jacket and it’s not that difficult to make!

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Discover Dressmaking Ideas and Fabric Inspiration

BUY 1 TICKET GET 1 FREE

Visit ichfevents.co.uk

Quote PP3 Save at least £10.00*

Make and Take Workshops • Paper Patterns Fabric • Demonstrations • Shop till you drop

To book visit www.ichfevents.co.uk and use code PP3 when purchasing or call 01425 277 988 for more information Terms and conditions: Phone lines open 9am - 5pm Monday - Thursday, 9am - 4.30pm Friday – standard tariffs apply. This offer is valid until 5pm on 13 November 2017, cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Use code PP3 at check out


On our radar Things we thought you might like to know......

The shirt on your back Liesl + Co has three new sewing patterns. The Recital shirt has pretty princess-seams, and lots of elegant details, such as tower sleeve placket and semi-fitted back with darts to give a great fit. It also includes separate pattern pieces for A/B, C, and D bust cup sizes. The Chai tee may be simple but this stylish pull-on top is much more than a basic tee. It has an easy fit and will become your favourite comfy T-shirt in no time at all. It will bring a touch of style to every day with its shoulder yokes, pleats and shaping. For the men, they’ve also added the All Day shirt, which will become a staple for the guys. This shirt is versatile and features professional details like separate collar, collar band, tower sleeve placket, and collar and cuff facings to make great looking shirts. To find your local stockist click here

Be quick! Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts comes to London!

ALL THE SEWING ESSENTIALS FOR DRESSMAKERS Janome’s 230DC is a sewing machine that grows with your sewing skills – it’s suitable for beginners and more experienced sewers, and is fully computerised. It has 30 stitches, 3 automatic one-step buttonholes and a jam-proof bobbin, as well as an automatic needle threader, maximum speed control, programmable needle up/down and foot pressure adjustment. What we really love about this machine is that, it has an extra wide table and a hard cover making it perfect for sewing on the go! £299, Janome

Christmas is just around the corner, and it’s a season with a lot of crafting, decorating and present-making to be done. The place to prepare for it is Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts at ExCeL London on 16th to 18th November. This show will help you stay top of your Christmas crafting and holiday handmade game. You’ll find top trends, ideas, inspiration and all the fabric, patterns and haberdashery supplies you could dream of. Discover new products, watch demonstrations and take part in workshops on a range of techniques to make sure that your next project truly shines. Use code PP3 to claim your 2 for 1 ticket from ICHF Events.

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AVAILABLE

NOW!

BRAND NEW

FABRIC RANGE

Loving Meadow

BOLT FABRIC & FAT QUARTER BUNDLES AVAILABLE

SEE THE COMPLETE THREADERS RANGE ONLINE AT

WWW.CRAFTERSCOMPANION.CO.UK


Introducing Piers & Palace

Unmistakably Liberty Liberty, of course needs no introduction, being the quintessential picture of British design. Liberty Fabrics has been creating original and inspiring fabrics since 1875. Each season its design studio creates new prints, adding to the vast archive of iconic florals, paisleys, graphic geometrics and colourful conversationals. Famed for its stunning range of lawn cottons, Liberty is now extending its fabric collection to classic craft/quilting weight cotton. While all the designs are new, Liberty is drawing from its library of 47,000 past fabrics, whihc dates back over 160 years. The new English Garden collection is unmistakably Liberty but with a scale that will suit all sorts of projects. It comes in three colourways, and always follows the design theme that one expects from the brand. The launch consists of just one carefully constructed collection of 23 pieces, and there will be a series of accessories, which are all made using fabric from the collection. Further ranges are planned, and the second in the pipeline is The English Cottage. Click here to find your local stockist

Piers & Palace is a brand new indie PDF pattern company with its feet firmly fixed in fashion and head in technique. Pier & Palace was born in Brighton, and their first pattern is a lovely panelled, modern take on the biker jacket. The Kemptown pattern encourages makers to be creative and bold with their choices of fabrics and colour. It features a constructed interlined body, Hong Kong seams, fully-lined sleeves and a faced back neck and front panel. The pattern is aimed at sewers with a good level of experience that want push themselves. It isn’t a quick make, and has true stages of construction, which makes it easy to pick up and put down. Focusing on hours to make versus hours of wear – the jacket is a great investment. Kemptown jacket pattern, £12, Piers & Palace

POP UP AND ROCK THAT FROCK Destiny is the latest pattern from vintage pattern company, Sew La Di Da Vintage, and is the first in its new Heritage collection. It’s a classic off-the-shoulder dress, with a waist seam, lined bodice and skirt lining, and two hem options including a fulllength and a dipped hem. It’s perfect to make in satin, silk, crepe, brocades and damask for special occasions, but can also be made in tartans and linens or why not use lace as an overlay. Sew La Di Da Vintage is offering a special deal of 2 patterns for £35. Click here to buy

Sew La Di Da Vintage is also organising a series of pop up two-day sewing workshops for 2018 through out the UK including the counties of Norfolk, Bath, Kent, and in Wales with more locations to come.

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Vin To tag da e S y’ s S tyl

e es s

iz

Frocks that Rock! • Sewing School • Indie Pattern Designer • Workshops Year-round • Weekly classes • ‘complete beginners’ to ‘rusty returns’ welcome

The Town Mill, Lyme Regis DT7 3PU, T: 01297 443205 www.sewladidavintage.com


Appy new from Maven Patterns It’s all go for Maven Patterns as they launched the new paper patterns at The Great British Sewing Bee Live and now, they’ve just released the Maven App. The app has been developed as a practical and functional tool for sewers. It’s a handy when you’re out and about and want to check on what you need for any of the Maven patterns. Each pattern is listed on the landing page, click the style to see an overview, and continue scrolling to choose your version as well as all the materials you need to sew. To find out more about the app or buy patterns, go to Maven Patterns

ENGLISH COTTAGE GARDEN AND FOX IN THE WOODS These are two of the latest fabric ranges from the brand Threaders. Cottage Garden is a 100% quality cotton-based fabric range, which includes nine designs inspired by beautiful blooms of rose blossom and English country house patterns alongside complementary crosshatch-patterned fabrics. All in a pretty colourway of navy, pink, blue and grey. The other collection will add a whimsical touch to your latest sewing projects. The Fox in the Wood collection features nine fabric designs which you can mix and match including designs with hints of silver and gold foiling to add a luxurious touch to your makes. If you’re looking for project ideas to use the range, sewing expert Lizzy Curtis has produced a CD that walks you through seven wonderful projects to try, inspired by the collection’s fox theme.  Both ranges are perfect for an array of projects, and you can buy it by the metre or as fat quarter packs, it’s also available in a 6in 24-piece charm pack and fabric strip roll plus there’s a matching six-piece thread box to co-ordinate perfectly with each collection. See the full ranges at Crafter’s Companion

Draft your own patterns Fittingly Sew is a programme for people who want to draft their own patterns, and it has some very powerful tools to start you off. It includes a set of basic sloper patterns and templates, which you can use as a starting point for your own designs and you can also draft your own patterns starting from rectangular blocks, just as you would with pencil, paper and ruler. You also have the ability to trace pattern pieces from background images, which may be photos of existing garments, scans of patterns from other sources, or even screen captures of other pattern design software. Fittingly Sew’s emphasis is on freedom to design rather than on readymade garments. The built-in pattern and body blocks in Fittingly Sew are all for women, but you can adapt any of them to use for men or children’s clothes. Download a free demo here

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The English Garden A Quilting Cotton Collection

To find your local stockist visit www.eqsuk.com or call 0116 271 0033

Catching

DREAMS

To find your local stockist visit www.eqsuk.com or call 0116 271 0033


We love this ruffled sweatshirt from Dressy Talk with its raglan long sleeve, round neckline and front and back yokes. The PDF pattern includes an option for sweatshirt and dress, and comes with a size chart, fabric requirements, printing guide, cutting instruction and step-bystep sewing tutorial.

Modelo terry sweatshirt fabric, 150cm wide Find local stockist here

WEARING WINTER

RUFFLES ARE A MUST Jersey fabrics are perfect for showing off your sewing skills, and detail is key for this season such as ruffles. Oliver Bonas has it nailed with the latest winter pastels, oliverbonas.com

The hottest styles on the high street and how you can sew them for your wardrobe EMBELLISH WITH EMBROIDERY Plaids and checks are classic but why not mix them up with some bold embroidery. This tailored coat definitely has the wow factor, missselfridge.com.

Add a hand-embroidered look with this Elegant Expressions multi-coloured embroidered iron-on floral vine and blossom appliqué. It’s great for adding instant colour and style to all sorts of garments. They’re £10 each from Simplicity.

This loose-fitting, open-front Chateau coat pattern from The Sewing Workshop features dolman sleeves, front slit pockets and lap seam construction. Pick a medium to heavyweight no-fray fabrics such as wool melton, felled wool, neoprene, scuba, suede or faux suede, and add your own embroidery or appliqué designs. For UK stockist click here

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QUILTED FABRICS ARE BACK! We love them! New Look is using them not only for outerwear – doesn’t the quilted fabric look great on these skirts, newlook.com.

Quilted cotton fabrics, Fabric-Dreams

This is one of our favourite easy skirt patterns. It’s such as a flattering and gently flared skirt, which sits just below the waistline. Designed by Clothkits in-house designer and pattern expert Maria Pulley.

FAUX FUR GOES TECHNICOLOURED Faux fur will make you feel cosy and luxurious. This multi-coloured jacket is perfect for throwing on for a night out, tkmaxx.com.

Long pile fun furs, CRS Fur Fabrics

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We found this great faux fur jacket tutorial from See Kate Sew which also includes a free pattern download and is perfect for making a fur jacket in the latest multi-coloured furs.

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MAKE A STATEMENT WITH NEW LOOK. IT’S ALL ABOUT SLEEVES THIS SEASON. CREATE YOUR STYLE THE WAY YOU WANT. WHETHER IT’S A D-RING, BELL, BOW, OR FLARED SLEEVE WITH TIES - DRESS PATTERN 6524 HAS IT ALL. ONE SIZE PATTERN REALLY DOES FIT ALL WITH ALL SIZES INCLUDED IN EVERY NEW LOOK SEWING PATTERN!

PATTERN 6524

New Look patterns available nationwide. For local stockist information Tel 0161 480 8734 or browse and buy online at www.simplicitynewlook.com


Working with

WINTER FABRICS Jane White, couture dressmaker, lays out her top tips for working with the most wanted winter fabrics

s orgeou g h c u s so m our There’ choose for y ng i to t work u fabric b g n sewi t winter be a bi t n a c m e si with th . Jane make ng s. daunti top tip r e h h t i easy w

WING TIPS GENERAL SE The machine needle size must match the fabrics: • 70 for fine fabrics • 80 for medium • 90+ for thicker fabrics Use a shorter machine stitch length for fine fabrics, and longer stitch for thicker fabrics. If the thread, needle size and stitch length match the fabric you shouldn’t have to adjust the tension unless using very fine or very thick fabrics. Always do a test sample on the garment fabric. Ask for the fabric care label for the laundry and ironing instructions when buying fabric.

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Use natural sewing thread for natural fabrics, polyester for mixed or synthetic fabrics. Use heavier thread for very thick fabrics, fur and leather. Two threads on the top of the machine threaded through one needle is a good alternative for strength and topstitching.

Use a walking foot or reduce the presser foot pressure for thick, slippery or plaid fabrics. For fabrics with a nap such as corduroy and velvet, use the nap layout instructions on the pattern to prevent shading. Sew napped fabrics in the direction of the pile. Always test and press on the wrong side of the fabric. I know it’s a bit old school but tacking really does help save time and unpicking!


Jacket and coat wools Pre-treat pure wool fabrics by rolling in a damp towel overnight to shrink and lift out natural oils, which can leave hand and iron prints during construction. Use a 80-90 standard point machine needle. Press with a damp cloth and dry iron on the wrong side of the fabric. Leave to dry before handling. Test a range of interlinings and tailoring canvas for strength and support. An underling of Domette will add warmth.

Faux fur fabrics

H BUTTONS IT W D L O B BE

Corduroy and cotton velvet Always cut with the nap going down. Cut out on the wrong side of the fabric to protect the pile.

Pvc and Leather Cut out on a single layer. Pin in the seam allowances or use weights and a rotary cutter.

Choose patterns with simple style lines and no darts. Raglan sleeves work well on thick piles. Cut on a single layer of fabric with a 2.5cm seam allowance Slide the point of the lower scissor blade through the backing only and snip – avoiding cutting through the pile. Use a 90-100 standard or denim needle. Shave off the pile in the seam allowances to reduce bulk and herringbone stitch down. Use fur hooks instead of buttons.

Knitted and jersey fabrics (including PVC, velvet and metallics) 1. Use an overlocker, narrow zigzag stitch or use a built in stretch stitch. 2. Choose a 80-90 ballpoint or jersey needle. 3. Use fusible nylon tricot interlining as it supports but retains flexibility. 4. Select a cover stitch machine or twin needle for the hems. 5. Select a zigzag stitch for elastic casings.

Use a 80-90 standard point machine needle. Press with a velvet board. Use sew-in interlinings.

Matching plaids and checks

Don’t use pins, instead choose paper clips or quilting clips. Use a standard, denim or leather machine needle. Try using a welt seam. PVC is very slippery so use a walking foot, Teflon or roller foot. If the PVC sticks to the machine, cover the base plate with a layer of non-stick cooking liner or use tissue paper under the fabric. Stitch once! Don’t tension or stretch through the machine. Seam allowances can be glued down after stitching but do a test patch first.

Match the seam line rather than the edge of the pattern. Draw the plaid placement onto the pattern pieces. Decide which line you want down the centre front of the garment. The same plaid should be at the centre back as the centre front. Either pin the fabric together matching the check every 10cm or you may find it simpler to cut out each piece separately. Trace off extra pattern pieces. Ensure that the plaid matches horizontally too.

Quilted fabric Use wider seam allowances. Choose a pattern with simple style lines and no darts. Select a longer stitch length and a 90-100 standard or denim needle. Use tissue paper on top when machining, it can help prevent puckering. Tack zips in place with small stitches.

Jane White, City & Guilds Fashion Adv. & Cert Ed. is a couture dressmaker by trade, a qualified teacher by profession, and enjoys teaching dressmaking, pattern cutting and design to sewers of all ages, experience and skill levels. With a particular focus on technique and practical skill, Jane’s own brand of inclusive and supportive tuition has launched as many wardrobe re-vamps as it has professional sewing careers! She can be contacted at jane@janewhitetuition.co.uk or telephone her studio on 01652 662 053.

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Gin and tonic candle

Felt bucket advent calendar £36.50 from Felt So Good Fill this beautiful handmade felt bucket advent calendar with sewing treats to make the lead up to Christmas sew special!

£19.95 from Oundle Candles Create a beautiful atmosphere in your sewing room with this luxury candle, complete with little blue button detailing.

What sewing treat would you like this Christmas? Leave this page open on your iPad and hopefully your family will get the hint!

Mixed button box £6.95 from Annabelle James A handy and cute stocking filler, this lovely tin of mixed buttons is sure to come in useful.

Golden mug £16 from Studio Sophie There’s always time for a tea break when you’re mid-making.

Sew Lets Stitch sewing essentials From £2.95 at Dotcomgiftshop Boxed gifts with sewing essentials make the perfect little stocking fillers for you or your loved ones.

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Ray clutch bag £12 from Neema Crafts This lovely handmade clutch is perfect to keep all your essentials safe whilst celebrating the holidays.

White spool holder €19.90 from KAM Snaps This great spool holder holds 30 reels, and is perfect for keeping your sewing threads in an orderly fashion.

Sewing subscription £20 - £65 from SewHayley Jane Sign up to receive a monthly sewing surprise of fabric, buttons, ribbons, trims and more.

Dressmaking journal £12.95 from Sew Crafty Keep your dressmaking notes stylish in this practical craft journal.

Canvas tool carrier $120AUD from Hands On Workshop We love this crafted tool carrier made in Japan. It’s sure to keep all your dressmaking tools organised and stylish when at workshops.

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I AM We catch up with the creative butterfly, Marie-Emilienne, the founder of the French indie pattern company, I AM Tell us a little bit about your background and how you got into sewing As a kid, I used to stay for hours in my bedroom alone and come out with clothes sewn for my dolls. Since then, I’ve always been interested in making my own garments. When it was time for me to choose a career path, I went on to study on-measure garment making. The school prepared me for French Haute Couture, but I chose to continue learning and went on to study pattern making for the ready-to-wear industry. After graduating, I worked for a few designers. I also went to teach at Shanghai University in China. It was such an amazing experience, and when I came back to Paris, I worked as an academic director in an international fashion school. That’s when I realised that I’d like to share my passion and knowledge of sewing with everyone, and not just with professionals of the fashion industry. It’s important for me that everyone can create their own garments and express their own personality. 

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MAKERS in the spotlight

Tell us about what sewing patterns are currently available? There are currently more than 20 patterns available both in paper and PDF – A4 print at home and A0 to print at a copy shop. The first collection was I AM A GODDESS with six patterns. Then came I AM IN LOVE, I AM A STAR, I AM IN AFRICA and we’ve just launched the new one I AM WILD. The style is modern, casual and chic. I love the idea of making clothes that no one else will have, and are like designer pieces that you can wear every day. I’d love everyone to be able to make their own garments, most of of our sewing patterns are really easy and aimed at beginners, but confident seamstress that like to make nice clothes that are timeless and chic, and easy to wear will love them too. A few other patterns are using more advance techniques. We’re currently updating our website to make sure there’s a step-by-step guide with photos for all our patterns. 

Do you have any favourite pattern you’ve designed and why?

When did you start the I AM patterns brand? I started I AM patterns in 2015, and launched the first collection in autumn/winter of that year. I didn’t expect the huge success it has had, and I’m very thankful for the support I’ve received from the sewing community.

How often do you release new sewing patterns? We’re currently releasing one official collection every autumn/ winter with four to six new patterns. The rest of the year, we release patterns as the creation takes us! So, it could be three new patterns one month or one every two months. But looking to the future, we’d like to release a pattern every month.

Where does your inspiration for each collection come from, and do you have a particular type of style in mind when designing? My biggest inspiration is everyday life. I guess because I see life as a great adventure, and every day is a new one. It can be anything from a painting I saw to a sentence I heard. It comes to me and then it’s stuck in my head until the creation comes alive! Then I work like I’m in a Haute Couture house, this was my training, and I make a muslin (toile) on the mannequin, using traditional French draping methods. If I like it, I continue and make a real garment from it. But if the result of that first toile isn’t as expected, I explore a different way. I don’t have a particular type of style in mind when I create, but it seems that I like loose cuts these days.

It’s funny because the patterns I design for myself turned out to be the one I wear the least. The three patterns I sew and wear the most are Pan, Apoolon, and Hermes. I realised they’re all classics, which I can sew in so many different fabrics and styles. Usually I alter Pan to make the simplest T-shirt from it. It’s too early to say if they’ll become my favourites, but I’m really in love with three from my newest collection – Colibri (meaning hummingbird), Chouette (meaning owl) and Lion. Recently I wear these three designs all the time.

Who do your patterns appeal to? My patterns appeal to a wide range of people, but it seems that modern urban women are the ones who seem to cherish our patterns the most.

t c a t n Co rns patte /en I AM s.fr attern Iamp

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PDF patterns We explain how to start using digital sewing patterns at home We love digital patterns, and there has been a real increase in demand for the PDF sewing pattern over the last few years. These provide sewers with instant access to allsorts of patterns, some of which are only available this way. Digital patterns are often a little cheaper to buy than its paper pattern

version for obvious reasons – there’s no printing or packaging costs Some dressmakers would like to try using digital patterns, but feel intimidated by the number of sheets of paper that have to be stuck together to make up a full-size pattern.

Here are our top 10 tips for printing out, assembling and tracing your sewing pattern downloads: ASSEMBLY START WITH SIMPLE PATTERNS If you’re new to digital patterns, start with a simple pattern that doesn’t have too many pieces and will be easy to put together.

PRINTING Printing your pattern correctly is key. Patterns can be viewed in the Adobe Acrobat Reader.

PDF patterns come with a test square. Print this out first to make sure you have the pattern scale correct. If it isn’t the correct size, go back and check you printed at 100 per cent or actual size.

Trim off any excess blank borders and cut roughly around the pattern pieces. Don’t worry about trimming to size - this is easy to do when pinned to the fabric. Pattern sheets are usually numbered to help you put them together. Use tiny pieces of transparent Sellotape to stick pattern pieces together making sure you put them together as accurately as possible.

Make sure you transfer all the usual notches and other markings in the normal way.

TRACING Ravenna, Straight Stitch Designs

When downloading your pattern, remember to save and store it somewhere safely on your computer. We have a folder on our computer and save by company and pattern name so they are always easy to find.

Some PDF sewing patterns contain overlapped pattern pieces, so tracing is necessary. Go around each pattern piece with a different coloured pen so each piece is easily indentifiable. Burda do a range of gridded papers that can be purchased here Simplicity New Look or you could just use brown paper.

ON THE PLUS SIDE We recommend printing your patterns in draft to save on ink. They’re still readable but print out much quicker and the ink dries sooner too.

PDF sewing patterns will include a pattern layout, illustrating how your printed pattern pieces should fit together – it probably isn’t necessary to print these out as you can refer to them on your iPad or computer.

If you want to make more than once, you can simply print it out again. All the patterns can be stored digitally saving on sewing room! To avoid any guilt, make sure you recycle paper scraps when cutting out. Some PDF patterns are interactive, which means you can choose your size before printing the pattern pieces out.

DISADVANTAGES OF PDFS It does take time to piece together. As there’s no pattern envelope, you need to find ways to store your cut-out patterns. We store in a large brown envelope but if you have a dedicated sewing area, we’ve seen some sewers clip to a coat hanger and store on a rail.

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60-minute make

Quick and easy weekend bag Make this bag in no time at all. All you need to do is throw your purse, phone and a lippy inside, and it’s off to meet a friend for coffee or a spot of fabric shopping!

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60 minute make

Materials

3

6

Repeat this process for the lining. Place the lining fabric inside the main (outer) fabric right sides together. Stitch around the top of the bag, leaving a gap of approx 4cm for turning.

7 8

Turn the bag the right side round, and push the lining into the bag. Press and topstitch around the top of the bag – this helps the lining from moving and closes the opening used for turning.

Main fabric – 2 pieces of 40cm x 30cm sparkly denim Lining fabric - 2 pieces of 40cm x 30cm cotton fabric Scraps of leather fabric Bag handles Matching thread and hand needle

Steps to make

1

Cut out your main and lining fabric. Ours measured a rectangle of 40cm x 30cm but you can make any size you want.

Arrange the 3-layer flowers on one of the main fabric pieces – this will be the front of your bag.

4

Using a leather or jeans needle stitch and secure the flowers from the centre to edge of each petal to create a ‘wheel effect’ with the stitching.

Secure the handles. We cheated and glued them on first, it makes hand stitching the handles must easier and you’re finished!

Where can I buy Lining fabric came from Art Gallery Fabrics For stockist information click here

Bag handles (Clara) were from Prym £11.83 from amazon.co.uk Leather scraps came from Designer Sofas4u, £5.50 for 2kg of scraps, available from Amazon

2

Download a free flower template. Print off the template, cut the shapes out and draw around them on to the back of the leather. Cut out with sharp scissors. We made two 3-layer flowers but you could make more

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With the main fabric right sides together, stitch one of the shorter sides and both long sides. As we used denim, which frays we used pinking shears to neaten the edges. Pinch the bottom corner together, and stitch at right angles to create the corners.

Flower card template from mmmcrafts. You can download it free here

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Get silvery with Simplicity Be sure to make a statement at any event this winter with this gorgeous dress pattern, which features on this issues front cover. Got a formal dinner or dance then look no further. This pattern is available for sizes up to 28W.

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£8.95, Pattern 8439, Simplicity

T’is the season to Silver is a favourite colour for the festive season. Here’s a selection of our favourite accessories for you to buy and try

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Go geo! Get comfy in your sewing room with this lovely geometric print cushion! We love this cushion and probably should make our own but we’re a sucker for silver, and geo patterns.

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These lo vely over sized silver de corative scissors measure a whoppin g 60cm lo ng, and are p erfect for hanging on the w all as a statem ent piece .

Beautiful button Show your love for sewing with this pretty silver button necklace. £145, Silverdashery

£74, Artis anti www.thepatternpages.com

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ISSUE 1 MAY 201

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THE FIRST DIGITAL JUST FOR DRESSM MAGAZINE AKERS

Summer trends

Elevate your sewing skills with tips from Kim Collins from the Ann Normandy label

Fashion-led embro

Must-have mini idery bag Hottest floral fab s rics

THE FIRST DIGITAL MAGAZINE JUST FOR DRESSMAKERS

Simplicity

e h T h t i w Work s e g a P n r Patte Are you an up-and-coming pattern designer, fabric shop or sewing expert? We’d love to hear from you!

Julie@thepatternpages.com

GUST 2017

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The latest sewing books that you’re going to want to have on your sewing room bookshelf

on books

Sewing your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe

Pattern Cutting: The Architecture of Fashion

By Nicole Claire Mallalieu 978-1617453113 Transform garment patterns, one small detail at a time with this book. Add pockets, adjust the neckline, or swap a zipped back for a button front! With step-by-step instructions, clear illustrations and how-to photos, learn to make and sew endless variations on your favourite sewing patterns to a professional finish. Whether you have basic sewing skills or are a confident dressmaker, you can learn how to make the most of your clothes.

By Arianna Cadwaller & Cathy McKinnon 978-0857833938 This book is both inspiring and practical and seamstress Arianna Cadwallader and designer Cathy McKinnon present a set of sewing patterns and instructions for five key pieces that will make up a capsule wardrobe. The patterns include a great shift dress, well-fitting trousers, simple yet stylish skirt, light blouse, and jersey vest. Their focus is on quality and fit, and all patterns can be adapted to suit you perfectly, whether you prefer long, short or cap sleeves, high or low waistbands, and slim, straight or wide-legged trousers. Once you’ve created the garments, you can mix and match them to create a variety of looks and styles. This book is aimed at advanced beginners, and guides you through how to measure yourself and all the techniques you will need.

By Pat Parish 978-1474272384 Not available until the end of the year but well worth pre-ordering. Pattern cutting is an essential yet complex skill for every sewer/designer to master. Pattern Cutting: The Architecture of Fashion demystifies the pattern cutting process and clearly demonstrates pattern fundamentals, enabling you to construct in 2D and 3D, and quickly get to grips with basic blocks, shape, sleeves, collars, trousers, pockets and finishes. This popular and inspirational sourcebook has been updated to reflect new directions in construction design and techniques, and to include more advanced patterns, such as the Magyar sleeve and the jumpsuit. With handy tips, shortcuts and tricks of the trade, the second edition is a must-have sewing room resource.

Where to buy

Where to buy

Where to buy

The Savvy Seamstress

Published by C&T Publishing – available for £24.99 from Amazon.

Published by Kyle Books – available for £13.59 from Amazon.

Published by Bloomsbury Visual Arts – available for £32.99 from Amazon.

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Sew the look It’s time to show off your sewing skills when it comes to special celebrations. Here’s what to sew with this season’s top fabrics.

Prepare to party with gorgeous patterns to take you from Christmas into the New Year

ACCESSORIES Vogue 9249 - sewdirect.com

SILKS AND SATINS Dorothy, Sew La Di Da Vintage sewladidavintage.com What’s not to love with the off-the-shoulder V neckline, figure-skimming bodice and slight fishtail skirt, Dorothy is a vision of ‘40s showgirl glamour. In three-quarter length, Dorothy is perfect for parties and other special events, and silks and light satins will give this dress a soft and light feel.

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Make one of the four beautiful embellished wrap designs from Vogue as a cover up

VELVET 8259, Simplicity - simplicitynewlook.com Velvet is definitely a must-have fabric for this winter. This beautiful button-front dress with full skirt and options to sew a scalloped neckline with half sleeves, or sweetheart neckline with long sleeves will look fabulous in this rich fabric.


KEY STYLE Shirtdress, Dressy Talk From Etsy store

JACQUARD and NOVELTY print

The shirtdress is very popular this season, and this PDF sewing pattern from Dressy Talk features a gorgeous gathered circle skirt and looks stunning in bold colours.

6413, Butterick - sewdirect.com Based on the wiggle dress that Marilyn Monroe wore in the film Niagara, this gathered-front dress with keyhole detailing just under the bust is sure to turn heads!

CHARMEUSE 8413, Simplicity simplicitynewlook.com This pattern pack is a must have for any party wardrobe. It includes this slip dress in two lengths and versatile kimono by designer In K

LACE 4070, Simplicity simplicitynewlook.com Cocktails anyone? We love the lacy look but don’t want to show off too much flesh then this pretty dress with overlay lace will be right up your street.

www.thepatternpages.com

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Pretty

LITTLE THINGS

Amy Sinbaldi is the designer behind Art Gallery Fabrics’ first festive fabric collection Little Town. We talk to Amy about fabric, inspiration and what she likes to sew Tell us a little bit about yourself, and how you became a fabric designer? For more than a decade now I’ve been working with textiles, and I’ve really taught myself as I went along. In fact, with each creation that I’ve made, I learned a new skill from curved binding, appliqué, embroidery stitches, making a quilt, free-motion quilting and simple garments. I’ve enjoyed every step of the way and began working with different fabric houses to help them promote their fabrics. When Pat Bravo from Art Gallery Fabrics approached me, I was so excited! Designing fabric was definitely a goal and Art Gallery Fabrics (AGF) was exactly where I wanted to be, so it was great timing. My first collection was Paperie and I’m now working on my seventh range.

Designed by you, Little Town is the first holiday fabric collection from AGF. The collection features different types of fabric, tell us about them? Yes, Little Town has been printed onto several substrates. Besides quilting cotton, some of the designs are printed onto AGF knit, and the newest substrate, rayon, which truly feels as soft as butter. I’m in love with the rayon!

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What’s it like working on wonderful collections for AGF? Do you work to a brief? I absolutely love working for Art Gallery Fabrics. You know, every house operates differently but I’ve such affinity for the people and the very strong team that backs me every time I release a new collection with them. They do such an amazing job promoting their designers and the collections, which is one of the biggest reasons why I wanted to work with them in the first place.


DESIGNER in the spotlight

‘Pretty little things’ embodies for me a thing of beauty, necessary or not, useful or not, but definitely something that brings someone joy, even if it’s just me! As makers, we enjoy the process more than anything else, right? That’s why it doesn’t actually matter to me if I’ve just created a queen size quilt or a tiny impromptu art quilt that might be hung on the wall or given away. Creating is the most important part. Getting the details right is my favourite goal such as a wellplaced button placket, ruffle or piping in an unexpected colour. From inspiration to finished product… it’s all about the details.

Little Town is unconventional when it comes to the usual festive fabrics. How did you choose the colour palette? I worked very closely with the AGF art directors to come up with a colour palette that suited the collection’s needs. It was a tough one, because we wanted this to be a winter line for sure, but also to be a collection that could be used not only for holiday but all year through. So, one of the colourways is more traditional and the other one is very soft, pastel, and unconventional.

Do you have makes in mind when you design new fabric ranges? Yes! When I design prints I know exactly what I’d like to see made with them. For instance, a small floral, is, in my opinion, perfect for bias binding, and little girl dresses as well as quilts and just about everything. When I created the magnolia prints in my Charleston collection, I was definitely thinking of garments. And for instance, when I created the graphics for Les Petits (a collection of basics) I was working purely on a basis of need such as I need a small check print for binding and I need micro-dots of this size to use with the florals, and I really wanted the stripes on the bias because those look good in any sewing project.

How can this fabric collection work for those who like to make their own clothes? Little Town has so many wonderful prints in it, which are perfect for making garments. I used the rayon Winterberry Pine print to

make a little baby girl dress and soon I’ll be making one for myself. The Winterberry prints in quilting cotton are also great for making dresses, tops and skirts, because AGF’s cotton is so fine, and has the best drape out of all the cottons. Twinkle Stars is fantastic and just about all the prints are so versatile for garments.

If you could collaborate with anyone who would it be? Of course, other than AGF! I’m such a lover of paper goods I’d absolutely love to see my designs printed on stationary. I think Little Town would be amazing as wrapping paper, don’t you think? It would be perfect!

You say you like to make pretty things. What things influence and get your creative juices flowing? I tend to be inspired by the smallest detail of a beautiful object such as the way two colours look next to one another or the tiles on a café floor. I take that inspiration and translate it into whatever it is I’m making.

Contact

Amy Sinibaldi Fabric Designer for Art Gallery Fabrics nanacompany.typepad.com Little Town fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics

www.thepatternpages.com

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10 minutes with... Tatiana Anninskaia from Dressy Talk Tell us a bit about your background and where you’re based? I’ve been passionate about designing and sewing clothes since I can remember. One of my earliest memories is helping cutting out my grandma’s dresses. I’m so lucky to have turned my hobby into the best job I could ever have dreamed of and built a career in fashion industry. I started working in the industry when I was still doing my Bachelor degree in clothing development and production in Saint Petersburg in Russia. After seven years of working in this field designing clothing collections for independent designers to sourcing production overseas for bigger brands, I quit my job and moved with my family to Germany, where I still live with my husband and our nine-month old son. I also did the Master program in fashion management in Germany, and then started my sewing patterns company, Dressy Talk.   How did the idea for Dressy Talk come about, and when did you decide to start selling your PDF designs on Etsy? In 2015, while I was writing my master thesis, I came back to tailoring and started exploring the online sewing community with all its amazing projects, talented people, and useful resources. Shortly after, I realised there was a need for modern digital sewing patterns, and I created my first collection in late 2015, which turned out to be quite successful.   Dressy Talk patterns have an unique style, how would you describe your patterns?

Contact

Dressy Talk dressytalk.com www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ DressyTalkPatterns

I really admire every single pattern, which you can find in the Dressy Talk store. It’s not about the patterns, it’s about the way they make you feel when you wear your own handmade clothes. Of course, I have all the Dressy Talk designs in my own wardrobe in a variety of different colours and fabric, and I want everyone, who sews with my patterns to feel the way I do. Wearing your own clothes gives you a sense of confident, style and an achievement when you sew unique pieces of clothing.   How often do you create new patterns for your collection? I normally create two collections every year, and launch one or two patterns every month. I like to stay in touch with the latest trends, and watch all the fashion shows before I sketch ideas. Creating seasonal collections is something, which comes from my background working in the fashion industry, and I enjoy following this route.   What would you say makes your patterns different from other independents out there? The signature style for Dressy Talk patterns is what I like to call transformables. Each sewing pattern is adaptable so lots of garments can be made from one pattern. It all started with the 4-in-1 coat pattern, which was very successful, and set me on the path to continue creating modern and original designs.   Are there any tips you can share about how sewers can get a professional finish to their makes? Yes, I say never stop learning, and don’t be afraid of challenging projects!

www.thepatternpages.com

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esigner D Stitch

.com

Use th e winter code pa and ge ges10 t all Des 10% off igner S patter titch ns

Designer Stitch design sewing patterns that are stylish, easy-to-wear and on-trend. All patterns are simple to construct, and true to size with a wide range of patterns from trousers and tops to dresses, playsuits and more!


New sewing patterns hot off the press

Lion, I AM

Gemma maxi dress, Named

ROAR! Another great pattern from I AM! The Lion puffed sleeve sweatshirt is sure to go with just about anything in your wardrobe, and its super comfy. Make sure you check out the rest of the I AM Wild collection too!

MIX IT UP This fabulous maxi dress would be perfect for any end of year celebrations. Make with on-trend fabrics like Named in their Earth Science collection to make your garments extra special.

QUIRKY AND CUTE This cute little blouse is perfect for wearing with a skirt and heels for work or dress it up with accessories to take you from day to night. We love version two with its peter pan collar and button placket.

Banksia blouse, Megan Nielsen

www.thepatternpages.com

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Rivermont dress, Cashmerette

Mayberry dress, Jennifer Lauren Handmade

PERFECT FOR ALL OCCASIONS This dress is ideal for making with the latest Scuba/ Neoprene and Ponte fabrics, and is great for just about any occasion. It may look formal, but don’t be fooled –you’ll find yourself wearing it all the time! It comes in fab range of sizes from 12 to 28, and in three bust cup sizes too.

BEAUTIFUL BOHO The Frida pattern is another wonderful pattern for all seasons. Wear it bare legged in summer or team it up with boots and tights for winter. It’s a great opportunity to make your dress your own with cute textiles, trims and embellishments.

CLASSY AND CHIC This fabulous drawstring tie waist dress is great for any season, and the pattern will take your sewing skills to the next level with an off-centre button placket, challenging buttonholes, set-in sleeves and set-in pockets. What’s great about it is, there’s multiple cup sizes ranging from A to D so you don’t need to worry about it gaping or not fitting properly!

Chestnut sweater, Cocowawa Crafts

Frida top/tunic and dress, Designer Stitch

THAT OLD CHESTNUT! There’s nothing better than a comfortable, cosy jumper. Not only is this a relaxed sweatshirt but also a very stylish addition to your handmade wardrobe.

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Pattern Finder

New patterns added every week

Tap or Click

The Very Best Indie Sewing Patterns‌ ďŹ lter by Fabric Type | Garment Type | Brand | Skill Level then choose a stockist to purchase from!


MAD FOR PLAID Mad Plaid is part of Art Gallery Fabrics’ Capsule collection, and is a stunning range of modern plaids in both cotton and knit fabrics. This season, plaids and checks are key fabrics and the ideal fabric option for cooler days. To find out more click here

HOT Fabrics Latest fabric for this season’s sewing

HEART & SOUL Heart & Soul from Blake Riley is a 100 per cent cotton fabric collection, which combines uplifting sentiments with elegant ditsy florals, and has been designed by Deena Rutter. “Since I was a young girl, I’ve always needed a creative outlet to express myself. Much of my inspiration comes from nature, music, and architecture. I’m happy to be making my contribution to the fabric world with my own fabric designs. Fabric is such a versatile medium with the possibilities seeming endless, and I’ve always hoped my designs will inspire creativity in others. I believe we all have a creative spark within us, waiting to be displayed,” says Deena. To view more designs from the collection and find out where you buy click here

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BABY CORD Cloud9 has a wonderful range of baby needlecord fabrics. Spring Quartet by Jessica Jones includes four gorgeous prints, which blend perfectly with the solid needlecord colours also available. Click here to find your nearest stockist of Cloud9 Fabrics

ALL FUR COAT… Faux fur fabrics are fun to wear, and using Jane White’s tips on page 18 aren’t as difficult to sew with as you think! Stone Fabrics has a serious collection of fur fabrics including this gorgeous brown fox long hair (£17.50 per metre) and ochre yellow polyester fur (£11.75 per metre) – all faux of course! To view the full range, visit Stone Fabrics

A SOFT TOUCH Modelo Fabrics has just bought out a beautiful lace range of fabrics, which is perfect for all kinds of garments including lingerie. Made from a combination of viscose and polyester makes this lacy fabric really soft to the touch. What we love about it is that it comes in a great selection of colours to choose from. To find your local Modelo Fabrics stockist click here

www.thepatternpages.com

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Sew the look

DRESSED

for the office Make your wardrobe work hard for those days at the office

Art Gallery Fabric – Spice Fusion

Under wraps

This classic wrap dress is designed to play up to your curves with crossover front, built-in tie and deep V-neck. It’s perfect for wearing to the office. Make it with knits from Art Gallery Fabrics Spice Fusion range suchas Willow Blooms Spices (KF700) or Paparounes Spices (KF-708).

The new neckline This dress is essential for an up-to-date wardrobe. The dress, tunic and top pattern includes cutting lines for petite sizing, and features the trendy choker collar. Styles can be made in long or short sleeves, with a high-low hemline option and added side slits for better look and fit.

Appleton Dress, Cashmerette

Amber pinafore, Named

8425, Simplicity

Envy of the office This pinafore dress from the Earth Science collection from Named features an unusual buckle-fastening racerback that will have colleagues green with envy.

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Serious sleeve options Not yet released in the UK but we had to share with you. These pretty dresses with raglan sleeves and French darts feature four up-to-the-minute sleeve styles that you ‘ll want to put on your list to make. Create the perfect dress for any occasion using fabrics such as crepe, silk, satin, linen, and velvet.

8511, Simplicity, Available later in the autumn from simplicitynewlook.com

Custom-built No self-respecting winter wardrobe will be without a sheath dress. This one from Colette is the newest dress pattern, and includes interchangeable design details that give the sewer the option to create a custom dress. All versions of Claudette contain a fitted, lined bodice and fitted, midi-length skirt. The different sleeves, shaping, and details in each version can be mixed and matched to create a dress that perfectly suits your style.

1552, Vogue

It’s all in the drape Another great pattern if you like to be comfortable while you’ work. This semi-fitted, pullover two-way stretch knit draped dress has collar and sleeves variations that are crying out for a contrasting fabric. We love the shaping, its so flattering and hides all the lumps and bumps!

Claudette, Colette Patterns

Gone are the days of the power suit for the office – thank goodness! Be the talk of the office with a dress that expresses your personal style www.thepatternpages.com

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Passion to profit We’re delighted to catch up with Mimi Goodwin from the successful blog MimiStyle.com, and designer for Simplicity Patterns Most sewers will know you for your sewing blog, and successful online sewing tutorials. Tell us how your hobby suddenly became the international brand it is today? Well that is a lot to explain but in 2013, just a year after starting my blog, I quit my job in film and production, and decided to turn my blog into a full-time business. I wasn’t sure what that was going to be exactly, but I knew that I was growing a following very quickly and that my tutorials and DIY projects were trending so I figured if I could continue building those areas of my blog I could eventually create product and grow it into a sustainable business. In the second year, Simplicity asked me about having my own line of patterns and now I have close to 30 Mimi G Style for Simplicity patterns. In 2016, I started Sew It Academy, which is an online sewing school and I’m also currently working on my fabric collection, book and tour.

Why is the purpose of the MimiStyle.com blog? The purpose of the blog initially was a personal journal. It was a way for me to keep track of what I was making so I could look back on it. When it caught on, I started realised that what I thought was a fashion sewing blog was becoming a vehicle to teach sewing too. Since then I’ve taught thousands of people to sew with my tutorials, projects and of course, through sewitacademy. com. It’s more than just sewing, and Mimi G Style is a safe place for all those looking for inspiration, motivation and

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Although Simplicity does all the heavy lifting, I test all my patterns personally and I also sew the final garment you see on the envelope so that I can make sure they look exactly how I imagined.

Do you have a favourite pattern of all-time that you’ve designed? encouragement to do things that make them happy. It’s the chance to learn a new skill and share it with others who are just as obsessed about sewing as you are!

Yes, whichever one I’m working on at the time, lol! I say that every time, I design something new but if I had to pick I’d say it’s my dress and fall pattern from this season – Simplicity 8451.

Four years ago, you partnered with the Simplicity Creative Group. What sort of sewing patterns are you designing for them? I design clothes, which I like to wear. My patterns have been a hit since I did my first two patterns in 2013. I attribute this to the style and look of my patterns, and also the fact that I design for women with curves!

You’re keen to share your sewing know-how and have set up a sewing academy called Sew It. Explain how it works and who can join? Who in the sewing and/or fashion industry do you most admire, and why? I admire many people for many different reasons, but I have always been a fan of Diane Von Furstenberg for her ability to know exactly what women want. She’s strong and empowering and such an icon. I’m also a fan Nancy Zieman, I had the honour of meeting her recently, and I was blown away at how warm and kind she is. She’s a real trailblazer and I’m proud to follow in her steps.

What sewing patterns are you currently working on? I’m working on summer and early autumn 2018. I just finished sewing up the spring samples that we’ll be photographing for the Simplicity front cover. In a few weeks, I will get the test pattern for summer, and the process begins again!

The Sew It Academy was designed to help anyone learn to sew without having a any experience whatsoever. Each course builds on the last, so it’s not a series of tutorials but more of a curriculum you follow, and each month you get a new course with a new skill. You work at your own pace, and as long as you’re a paid member you have access to the courses. The subscription is $11.97, which makes it very affordable. What’s very special is that we make sure the courses are fun and full of information, and with one course a month, it allows the student to work through the course without being overwhelmed.

Contact Mimi Goodwin MimiStyle.com

www.thepatternpages.com

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