Print and Graphics • Checkmate • Art School • Ethnic Tribe
Menswear • Printed Outerwear • Indigo Denim • The New Camouﬂage
Checkmate. Where has it come from? With the return of the country gentlemen thanks to brands like Barbour and Hunter becoming staple in everyman’s wardrobe, we greet old friends such as tartan, over‐scaled plaids and ‘graph and grid’ like checks, with open arms. Perhaps the most prominent of these sub‐trends is tartan. Tartan has become synonymous with Scotland and ScoMsh history. However, tartan was originally a style of cloth intended to be decoraNve. As tartan comes back this season in the world of high fashion, it’s less about funcNonal highland dress and more about senNmentality, with nods to the naNonalisNc checks being picked out here there and everywhere. But don’t let yourself be lulled into a false sense of nostalgia, there’s nothing retro about it, in fact there’s something about the reinvenNon of tradiNonal tartan that makes this trend that liPle bit rebellious – giving a nod to one of tartan’s closest friends, punk culture.
Where is it going? With designers such as John Galliano, Pringle of Scotland and Moschino all exhibiNng ‘graph and grid’ checks and tradiNonal tartan this season, it is somewhat refreshing to see brands of a completely new caliber developing their own, unique interpretaNon of the paPern. Vans have translated tartan into skate‐Scot with lePering picked out of a tartan skateboard, and other skate style brands have followed suite by neon‐izing the colours. Zoo York have even given tartan a gangster style remake. This Nme tartan is less Balmoral, and more Billy Connolly.
The ‘checkmate’ family have also given birth to patchwork prints. Varying placements, Nling ﬂoral prints and mixing colour blocking with stripes to create a fresh, allover print.
Art School. Where has it come from? As the name suggests, the trend originates from printed pictures, ﬁne art and paint explosions, to large‐scale abstract paPerns, creaNve mixtures and Bauhaus expression. InspiraNon arNst José Lerma, created a mixture of painNng and intricate installaNons combining non‐tradiNonal materials from non‐reﬂecNve fabrics, commercial carpet, thickly layered, and biro pen. Some of these images feature Baroque style portraits of historic, famous French Bankers from 18th Century sporNng over‐exaggerrated sketchy, doodle wigs with distorted and blank faces. It is arNsts like José Lerma who’s Nmeless work has inspired the Art School trend.
Where is it going? In a convergent world where everything is constantly changing and technology is becoming evermore advanced, it’s not hard to see the prints in this trend evolving into digitally enhanced images. The techniques used by arNsts like José Lerma will get lost in factories ﬁlled with digital prinNng. The mix of tradiNonal imagery and technology will no doubt result in more conﬁdent experimentaNon with scale and colour. Conversely, the art school trend will also merge with the patchwork trend to create a unique looking sub‐ trend that incorporates both of these bold looks. Mixing Nled panels of intricately printed, Baroque inspired images, with colour‐blocked panels to create the perfect balance.
Ethnic Tribe. Where has it come from? A truly global trend that sees inspiraNon spanning from every corner of the earth. VariaNons of prints from Indonesia, China and India all have a prominent place within this trend. It mixes bold ethnic imagery such as decorated Indonesian paPerns and and resisted baNk dye designs, with Ikat expressionism and classic baNk paPerns. Many designers have already showcased these ancient ways of dying fabric within their latest collecNons. And it’s fair to say that the cultural diversity of the designers, reﬂects the global diversity of the trend. Vivienne Westwood has been ﬂying the ﬂag of England, while Yohji Yamamoto has for Japan. Other designers also include Henri Vibskov, Missoni and Miharayasuhiro.
Where is it going? As with the art school trend, the ethnic tribe trend will evolve with the aid of technology. The natural techniques that designers have been using will be replaced with mass printed graphics. However, this enables designers to experiment with the idea of scale and colour – potenNally creaNng more abstract designs that sNll take strong inspiraNon from ethnic tribe paPerns. With the use of eco‐friendly fabrics and sustainable fashion on the increase, it is enNrely possible that this trend may sit at the forefront of global sustainability due it’s hugely diverse global inﬂuence.
Printed Outerwear. What is the trend? Think foulard moNfs, and border details. The more clashing the bePer with this trend, as trousers and blazers are adorned with ﬁne prints and moNfs. Suits are given a twist with printed fabrics and small scale geometrics take center stage. Already seen on the catwalk, Burberry Prorusum and Versace have showcased print galore, giving the tailored menswear a well deserved twist. Where has it come from? As the boom of skatewear trend is coming slowly to an end, designers are taking inﬂuence, and making it current. Clashing prints and textures have been printed on tees, adorned trainers and matched skateboards everywhere. This printed outwear trend gives the look a mature edge. Its print‐all grown up. Finer moNfs and simplisNc border details weave their way onto bomber jackets, roll up trousers and blazers.
Where is it going? The clash maybe a bit daring for the high street‐but we predict it’ll be ﬁltered and given a go. Longer shorts and tees will see foulard moNfs, and the classic suit will gain a twist with paPern clashing. Small scale geometrics will be everywhere for retail theatre and graphics.
Indigo Denim. What is the Trend? Denim is a staple, and this season indigo will be the colour of choice. BaNk paPerning and woven indigo Ikats will be create on the classic denim jacket as the indigo clashes. Bleached eﬀects and denim mixes will be teamed together. Already seen by Phillip Limm and Missoni, denim is given a collaged paPern overhaul and indigo blue shades are mixed into every denim garment available. Where has it come from? Every season denim needs an overhaul. A menswear staple needs an on trend update and indigo is this seasons choice. More of a darker shade, this denim reﬂects other trends surrounding. As darker and more mature trends surround autumn | winter ’13, denim garments reﬂect this. Easily used to clash and collage, indigo will be seen as a fresh way to double and even treble up your denim.
Where is it going? Indigo jeans will be produced for high street stores, in their wearable and most sold styles. For high‐end high street, indigo denim texture will be introduced; such as bleached eﬀects and denim mixes.
What is the trend? You would have thought it has been done to death, but the fashion pack can’t get enough, and have re hauled again for Autumn | Winter ’13. Think Camouﬂages and animal skin mixes, with darker, more adventurous shades and ﬂoral accents. It’s a recurring theme, but the trends are deﬁnitely growing up, as camouﬂage appears on tailoring and silk materials. Leading the way, Dries Van Noten and Kenzo both previewed the new camouﬂage. ConcentraNng on repiNve ﬂorals and animal skins. Where has this trend come from? Camouﬂage jackets were on the back of every fesNval goer last summer, taken from the streets of London fashionistas. The trend was picked up by high street stores worn by the UK’s hipsters. The trend was simple to copy and not very adventurous, then along comes the NEW. The fashion pack have not forgoPen about the fast growing mini trend, and have given it their own twist.
The New Camouflage.
Where is it going? Wearable and easily customized, high street stores will jump on this trend as soon as it hits. Come Autumn | Winter ’13, this trend will feature on garments through darker colurs, and clashing animal and ﬂoral repiNve prints. Camouﬂage jackets will be modernized and given a suited mix of colour and texture.
Introducing Trend to George @ Asda Who Are they as a brand? Created in 1990, George at Asda is one of the most successful supermarket clothing ranges, worth an esNmated £1.75billion. The clothing range is aimed at the ‘average’ customer. CreaNng clothing ranges spreading from menswear, womenswear, beachwear, sportswear, children’s wear and even wedding dresses, George @ Asda promises to oﬀer something for everyone. Wearable clothes at aﬀordable prices. Although not know or its trend following fashion, George @ Asda sNll likes to pride its brand on being fashionable, even though not necessarily innovaNve. Therefore we thought George @ Asda would be a perfect brand to ﬁlter and dilute one of the upcoming trends of Autumn | Winter ’13.
Why Ethnic Tribal? Bold graphics and cultural inﬂuences, this trend is a statement in itself. Worn in print and through accessorized inﬂuences, ethnic tribal is classic trend meets fashion expression. We thought this trend is easily recognizable, wearable and has to potenNal to be dilouted into a supermarket brand.
How can this be used? Through garment graphics and adverNsing campaigns, even to in‐store environments, the tribal trend has the potenNal to cover all of the bases for the supermarket brand. Ethnic imagery could be used on both menswear and womenswear and mixing paPerns could be added to wearable pieces. AdverNsing campaigns for George currently focus on a family ideal, highlighNng the wear ability of their clothes for everyone at any occasion. A campaign could take inﬂuences from the tribal trend, focusing on atmospheres and scenarios. For example using ethnic tribal inspired party dresses, for the Christmas party dress range they produce each year.