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Now–July 15 oNly •

The Dallas Morning News

Section E

Wednesday, July 11, 2012 CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK


CAN-DO Home canning is catching on with a new generation of cooks



Special Contributor

verything old is new again, as home canning catches fire beyond the farm. “Home canning is this huge trend,” says Atlanta cookbook author Virginia Willis. “There’s great satisfaction in putting up a pickle.” Her refrigerated Pickled Cherry Tomatoes is a mainstay in one of Dallas Central Market’s popular classes on the topic.

More tips and recipes, 5E, 10E

“Not only is there more interest in the easy refrigerator preserving, pickling and making jam,” says Karen Cassady, manager of Central Market Cooking Schools, “but also the more involved canning by water bath.” Yes, the once dreaded boilingwater, heat-process method, generally considered too time-consuming for the Rachael Ray set. No more: Today’s luscious ends justify the more complicated means. You just have to carefully follow directions to avoid spoilage and

File/Staff Photo

Craft opened in 2006 in the W Dallas Victory Hotel.

prevent food poisoning. Homecanning kits and supplies are widely available. Williams-Sonoma joined the fray this year with its Agrarian collection, which includes gear for urban farming activities from gardening to raising chickens. The website offers canning supplies and jars that are an artisan step up from the Ball brand carried in grocery stores and even at home improvement stores. A trip to Spain inspired graphic designer Jeremy Gilbert’s first canning project last year: mouth-puckering, smoky-flavored Spicy Pickled

Craft, W hotel to part By LESLIE BRENNER

Restaurant Critic

See HOME Page 10E

Don’t let that produce go to waste. Spicy Pickled Okra, Pickled Cherry Tomatoes, Spiced Pickled Peaches and Fig Jam are a few of the tasty preserves you can make. Evans Caglage/Staff Photographer; styling by Tonia Lyle/Special Contributor and Lisa Veigel/Staff Designer

After a bit of a rocky start, Tim Bevins, chef de cuisine at Craft Dallas, has lately shown himself to be quite the fine cook. A dinner last weekend in the dining room at the W Dallas Victory hotel featured silky cured hamachi paired with tiny cubes of delicate champagne grape gelée; spot-on mezzaluna pasta filled with spinach and accented with preserved lemon; a superbly succulent heritage pork chop festooned with smoked bacon. But Bevins might soon be looking for a job: W Dallas plans to close the restaurant sometime next month; Ghostbar will close at the end of July. The hotel has signed an agreement with Culinary Concepts Hospitality Group, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s New York-based restaurant group, to develop a new restaurant for the Craft space. Cook Hall, as it will be called, will be a gastropub featuring American regional cooking and handcrafted cocktails. “The name was designed to let the guests know that they’re in a chef ’s gathering place,” says W general manager Tom Caramucci. A chef has not yet been hired, but “we are looking for someone local,” Caramucci says. As for Bevins’ next move, it has not been decided. The W hotel has not yet announced plans for the Ghostbar space, either. According to Tom Colicchio, founder of six-year-old Craft Dallas (and all the Craft restaurants), the contract between the restaurant and the hotel was up for renewal, and both parties decided to walk away. “It wasn’t working out for us or for them,” Colicchio says, “and for us, having a restaurant only busy on See CRAFT Page 3E


Asian film festival genres stretch imaginations By CHRIS VOGNAR

Movie Critic

The idea of an Asian film festival seems unwieldy, almost impossible. A continent of more than 4.2 billion inhabitants, with some cultures having more in common with the United States than with each other, Asia comes nowhere close to claiming a homogenous or easily categorized unified film scene. But such festivals have never been more widespread, and the Asian Film Festival of Dallas, which kicks off its 11th year Thursday and runs for a week at the Magnolia, remains a rock of programming and organization. The diversity of work on display — films from numerous countries, everything from

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apocalyptic fantasy and romantic comedy to classic samurai epics — speaks to the vastness of the land. Opening night brings the latest from one of the most visceral filmmakers on the international scene. Japan’s Takashi Miike has long been known as a bad boy shockmeister of world cinema, as fans of Ichi the Killer and Audition can attest. Miike appears to be mellowing just a little with age. Last year’s 13 Assassins, among my favorite films of 2011, was a fevered reimagining of Kurosawa’s Seven Samurai. Now he’s back with Ace Attorney, 8:30 p.m. Thursday and 9:30 p.m. July 19. Based on a video game, the film focuses on a murder trial decided in a Japanese legal system

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A white robot believes he is Buddha in Doomsday Book’s second piece, “Heavenly Creatures.”

so overworked that verdicts must be delivered within three days. Ace Attorney, in which characters wear hairdos that would look sporty in The Hunger Games, fits right into a thread of dystopian, dysfunctional societies driven to drastic measures in Japanese cinema. See Kinji Fukasaku’s Battle Royale. End days needn’t be dark, however. The festival’s closing night film, South Korea’s Doomsday Book, 7 p.m. July 19, contains a trilogy of stories about the end of the world. The surprise: All three short films are, in their own way, quite funny. The first, “A Cool New World,” presents a romantic zombie apocaSee LAST Page 3E

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The Dallas Morning News



Craft, Ghostbar to close

Payton hops on Green’s tour bus


y any measure, it’s been a challenging year for suspended New Orleans Saints head coach Sean Payton, who just split with his wife of nearly 20 years, Beth Payton. It’s one of those times when a man goes to the horse races, or if he has famous musician friends, he climbs aboard the tour bus. If he’s Sean Payton, he does both. When singer Pat Green’s bus rolled into Lone Star Park at Grand Prairie last week for a concert to close the racing season, Payton was on the bus. The Super Bowl-winning coach had a backstage seat for Green’s postrace concert. To recap, the NFL suspended Payton as coach of the Saints for the 2012 season when an investigation revealed that the team had a bounty system to pay players for injury-causing hits on key opposing players. A former assistant coach with the Dallas Cowboys, Payton and his wife and their two kids moved last year to a lavish home in the Westlake golf community of Vaquero (home to Mother and Father Jonas Brothers and youngest Jonas, Frankie). Sean has decamped from the Vaquero property since the couple filed competing divorce petitions last month in Tarrant County. (According to ESPN, he filed first, citing “discord and conflict of personalities,” and she filed second, seeking primary custody of the children.)

Payton’s oceanfront property Over on Candy’s Dirt, ace real estate blogger Candy Evans alerts us to the fact that the real tussle might be over custody of the Paytons’ Gulf Coast house on Watercolor Beach near Panama City, Fla. Candy says the home is a regular destination for football celebs, including Candice and Tony Romo, and there are occasional games of touch football on the beach amongst the pro players.

Gables’ reality check More news on 23-year-old Clark Gable, grandson of actor Clark Gable, who’s been spending time in Dallas shooting scenes for the syndicated reality series Cheaters. When the Dallas-based show unveils its 13th season in September, Gable will be the new host. The word is that he and other, as-yet-unknown Gable grandchildren are shopping a family reality show called Gone With the Gables. (Watch out Khloe, Kim and Kourtney.) Reality-show big wheel John Ferriter with Octagon Entertainment, formerly head of nonscripted television at the William Morris Agency, is repping the show. If you’re looking to spot the handsome young Gable in Dallas, try hanging at the Jean-Philippe Salon on Lovers Lane.

Kaplan is back Sometime Dallasite Gabe Kaplan turned up Monday night for dinner at Morton’s Steakhouse in Uptown. When the Welcome Back, Kotter star sat down, he was greeted by Morton’s manager Brian Perry with, “Welcome back.” (Rim shot!) Last year, Kaplan bought a penthouse at the nearby RitzCarlton residences.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

File/Staff Photo

Patrons at Ghostbar have drinks at the bar’s VIP reception area. In addition to Craft’s closing, the W hotel also will be closing Ghostbar. Continued from Page 1E

weekends … .” Well, clearly it wasn’t ideal. Craft and Ghostbar were able to hold on in Victory Park even after N9NE Steakhouse and Nove Italiano closed. But Craft was slow even last Saturday night, when I

happened to have dinner there with friends. There were diners tucked into the round booths on one edge of the dining room, but the center was largely empty. As my friends and I shared starters — Bevins’ fresh take on rabbit rillettes paired with sweet, house-pickled carrots and onions; chunks of well-

seared pork belly with ripe blackberries; and that lovely cured hamachi — I couldn’t help but feel sad that such accomplished cooking was going largely unappreciated. While his skill has not reached the level of his predecessor, Jeff Harris, now executive chef at Bolsa, Bevins is cooking much more confi-

dently, with a surer command of flavor, than he was a year ago; he’s definitely a chef to watch. The restaurant still has four stars, earned from my July 2009 review, when Harris was in charge. For the new restaurant, Caramucci says, the hotel will be building a bar — something Craft Dallas lacked, and perhaps suffered for. Unless it was at least somewhat busy, which in my experience it rarely was, Craft’s dining room didn’t exactly feel like a fun night out. Bringing a bar into the equation should probably help avoid that; Cook Hall will also flow openly into the Living Room (the lobby bar) as well. Plans are for Cook Hall to be less expensive than Craft Dallas, with prices expected to be about $45 per person for food and beverage, according to Caramucci. Cook Hall will be developed by Culinary Concepts in partnership with Starwood Hotels and Resorts, which owns W Dallas. Culinary Concepts operates Spice Market (New York and Atlanta), J&G Steakhouse (Washington, D.C., and Scottsdale, Ariz.), J&G Grill (Bal Harbour, Fla., and Park City, Utah) and more, all created by Vongerichten. Staff writers Robert Wilonsky and Karen Robinson-Jacobs contributed to this report. On Twitter: @lesbren

Last films embody world’s end Continued from Page 1E

lypse brought on not by bath salts but bad and vividly grotesque meat. You might want to go vegan after this one. The second, and most substantial, “Heavenly Creatures,” gives us a shiny white robot that claims to be Buddha. Existential anxiety ensues. Finally, in “Happy

Birthday,” a little girl orders a billiard ball for her father and gets more than she bargained for on the Internet. Doomsday Book, directed by Kim Ji-woon and Yim Pil-sung, is guided by a canny instinct for media satire, with TV talking heads serving as a clueless Greek chorus. If that sounds a little too now for you, the festival will

also present Blu-ray screenings of a couple of vintage samurai films: Akira Kurosawa’s Sanjuro (1962), a partner of sorts to Kurosawa’s great Yojimbo; and Masaki Kobayashi’s Hara Kiri (1962), a spooky tale of an old-samurai and a young samurai awaiting their fates. On Twitter: @chris vognar

Plan your life The Asian Film Festival of Dallas runs Thursday through July 19 at the Magnolia, 3699 McKinney Ave. Tickets $10; $7 for students and seniors; $12.50 for special events. All access VIP passes $159; $139 AFFD members.; 214-620-0885.



Univision wins with 18-49 set NEW YORK — While fireworks and barbecues enticed many television viewers away from their sets last week, Univision fans remained relatively loyal. The leading Spanishlanguage network beat all of its English-language counterparts in the Nielsen ratings last week among viewers ages 18 to 49, the chief demographic for advertising sales. The Fourth of July week generally stands as the leastwatched week of television all year, with good weather, family activities and an absence of fresh programming keeping people out of their living rooms. Univision is airing new episodes of its telenovelas, however, and its viewers are particularly keyed into La Que No Podia Amar (The One Who Couldn’t Love). Univision has topped the 18-to-49 viewership rankings twice before, on the weeks before Labor Day weekend in 2011 and 2010. The network has never won among all viewers. Only one program — Monday’s edition of NBC’s America’s Got Talent —

topped the 10 million mark in viewers last week, according to the Nielsen Co. CBS led among all prime-time viewers with an average of 5.3 million viewers last week, while NBC had 4.9 million. ABC averaged 4 million viewers, Fox had 3.5 million, Ion Television had 1.1 million and the CW had 590,000. The Associated Press

Top broadcasts

File 2011/The Associated Press

Here are the top 10 broadcast television shows for the week of July 2-8. Numbers are in millions. 1. America’s Got Talent (Mon.)/NBC 2. America’s Got Talent (Tues.)/NBC 3. The Big Bang Theory (Thurs., 8:30 p.m.)/ CBS

10.4 9.32 9.05

4. The Big Bang Theory 8.32 (Thurs., 8 p.m.)/CBS 5. NCIS/CBS 8.17 6. Person of Interest/ 8.121 CBS 7. Macy’s 4th of July 8.116 Fireworks/NBC 8. The Bachelorette/ ABC 9. 60 Minutes/CBS 10. U.S. Olympic Trials (Mon., 8 p.m.)/NBC

7.5 7.49 7.41

SOURCE: Nielsen Co.

Kris Humphries and Kim Kardashian attended a photo op.

Together and not ■ Now that Katie Holmes and Tom Cruise have settled their divorce quickly and civilly, the tabloids can focus on Hollywood’s slowest divorce. Kim Kardashian has been accused of being fame hungry before, but RadarOnline reports the reality star took measures to ensure she was in the spotlight during the short time she was with her soon-to-be ex-husband, Kris Humphries. She allegedly ordered the 6-foot-9-inch basketball player to get out of the way of photo ops at red carpet events so that photographers would be able to get as many photos of her in her “stylish outfits” as possible. As petty as this sounds, it’s meant to help Humphries build his case against Kardashian; Humphries claims the 72-day marriage was a fraud and that she married him only for publicity and profit. ■ Sara Ramirez (ABC’s Grey’s Anatomy) got married to banker Ryan Debolt on the Fourth of July in New York City, her rep tells the Huffington Post. CONTRIBUTORS:,



Pair of Russian masters



Moments musicaux, Op. 16; Études tableaux, Op. 33; Corelli Variations, Op. 42. Wang (Chandos)



Partita, Op. 54; Sonatina, Op. 49; Sonata No. 4, Op. 56. Franzetti (Grand Piano)

By SCOTT CANTRELL Classical Music Critic

Born two generations apart, Sergei Rachmaninoff and Mieczyslaw Weinberg represent two very different strands of 20th-century Russian music. The former, of course, could be called the last of the grand romantics; the latter, Polish-born but mostly resident in the Soviet Union, followed in the more modernist steps of Prokofiev and Shostakovich. Trained at the Shanghai Conservatory and the Manhattan School of Music, Xiayin Wang seems to have Rachmaninoff ’s lush, warmly expressive music in her blood. With dazzling and apparently effortless virtuosity, she has a natural feeling for the music’s ebb and flow, its great surges and longing sighs. She plays with quite generous rubato, but it seems to come out of the music itself rather than being imposed on it. What wonderful music this is: the “character pieces” of the Moments musicaux and Études tableaux, the Corelli Variations proving that a nominally abstract form can be imbued with such charm. The recorded sound is certainly vivid, although one wishes for a bit more bass resonance. Weinberg, who lived from 1919 to 1996, has been utterly overshadowed by the older Prokofiev and Shostakovich. The latter, by the way, was a real advocate of Weinberg, and actually helped secure Weinberg’s release when he was jailed on trumped-up “Jewish bourgeois nationalism” charges at the end of Stalin’s reign. His reputation probably hasn’t been helped by the various transliterations of his name, including Moishei Vainberg and Moyssey Vaynberg. Recordings in recent years have revealed an appealing compositional voice. This second disc in Allison Brewster Franzetti’s survey of Weinberg’s piano music will have a ring of familiarity to anyone who knows Prokofiev’s piano sonatas and Visions fugitives. In part reflecting shifting Soviet attitudes toward the arts, the music alternates between gentle piquancy and mordant drive. Wouldn’t it be nice if one of the Cliburn Competition contestants played some of these pieces for a change? A product of the Manhattan School and Juilliard, Franzetti plays ably and thoughtfully, in natural sonics.

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