JEANSWEAR & CONTEMPORARY FASHION
FOllOW ME! Influencer marketIng 2018 CASuAl COOl megatrend streetwear ANYTHINg gOES 25 pages of denIm styles
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No 68 /2-2017
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right on track
Zooming in on Denim anD Streetwear the new Look & FeeL oF J'n'C
Wherever materials, techniques or trends are concerned, our fast-moving times and the rapid development of technology are constantly challenging us to be curious, try new things and explore new avenues. As the new editor-in-chief of J’N’C, I also want to tread new paths: my aim is to give the magazine a bolder, fresher and younger feel. With a clear focus on denim and streetwear, my team and I are looking forward to keeping you updated on the latest developments in the fashion industry. At the centre of this current issue is our denim special, in which we are reporting on the latest trends in terms of fit, fabric and function. We are putting the spotlight on the emerging baggy trend, showcasing the coolest new pieces with the help of London band Blaenavon and taking you with us on our visits to a denim weaving mill and a manufacturer in Turkey. Another focus is the burgeoning industry trend of influencer marketing, a subject that David Eicher, managing director of the Munich-based digital agency Territory webguerillas, has a very clear opinion on.
Björn Lüdtke JoURNaLIst after graduating with a Business studies degree and a Ba in fashion Design technology from the London College of fashion, Björn Lüdtke now works as a freelance editor and journalist with a focus on fashion and lifestyle, as well as branding and marketing. he also writes regular posts and talks to the industry’s important movers and shakers for his blog howfashionticks.com. for us, Lüdtke conducted an exclusive interview in Istanbul with hamit Yenici, the Ceo of Calik and, together with photographer Christoph Mack, he visited the jeans manufacturer Baykanlar in Malatya where he got to see the latest technologies in action.
Suzana Holtgrave photogRapheR Croatian photographer suzana holtgrave lives and works in Berlin. she loves daylight, great styling and good music – especially rock’n’roll. she was overjoyed when we asked her to take on the cover shoot with UK newcomer band Blaenavon. suzana invited the entire team – after previous night's gig at Columbiahalle – to drop by her Berlin flat and set the scene for the cosy seventies-style shoot. It turned out to be a chilled afternoon – the lads posed, laughed, played music and danced.
The tracksuit top is one of the stars of our street style shoots, which perfectly convey the on-trend urban look. We have also examined the comeback of brands like Ellesse, Fila and Champion and interviewed the founder of Homeboy, Jürgen Wolf, who is breaking new ground with his cult brand in terms of marketing and trends. Not to be missed, of course, is our tradeshow preview, which contains all the information and developments you need to know at a glance. Prepare to be inspired by news, trends and our current favourite pieces, which we’re presenting to you in our new “Most Wanted” section.
David Eicher MaRKetINg expeRt
We hope you enjoy this issue! Thorsten Osterberger
David eicher is the founder of webguerillas, germany’s leading agency for alternative forms of advertising and influencer marketing. In october 2016, the agency was acquired by territory, europe’s market leader for content communication. he also lectures on guerrilla and viral marketing at the University of applied Management in erding, the academy of the german Book trade and the Macromedia University for Media and Communications. In a personal essay for J’N’C, the expert shared important strategies and his forecast for influencer marketing in 2018 from a customer point of view.
BITS & PIECES
COMEBACK OF STREETWEAR PIONEERS
SERVICE FEATURE: MY HELPDESK
tradeshoWs PREVIEW SS2018
Publisher EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Liesegangstraße 16 40211 Düsseldorf Germany
editorial dePartment Chausseestraße 116 10115 Berlin Germany editor-in-Chief Thorsten Osterberger firstname.lastname@example.org
Tel. +49 (0)211.830 30 Fax +49 (0)211.830 32 00 email@example.com www.jnc-net.de
art direCtor Ivo Wojcik
Publishing management Nikola Köster
Chief subeditor Cloat Gerold
assoCiate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta
editor Cheryll Mühlen
editing assistant Nils Jürgens Contributors Andres Damm (NYC correspondent), Siems Luckwaldt, Björn Lüdtke, David Eicher PhotograPhy Nikolaus Brade, Alexandra Kinga Fekete, Suzana Holtgrave, Christoph Mack, Patrick Viebranz translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de
fashion modern sPortsWear 10 QUESTIONS: PROJECT DELRAY
advertising direCtor Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211.830 31 51 firstname.lastname@example.org CoPy editors Cloat Gerold, Galina Green logotyPe design Martin Steinigen/chewing the sun
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JULY 4 â€“ 6, BERLIN
BITS & pIECES
BITS & pIECES
NORDIC BY NATURE With finland we associate lonely landscapes, fjords, forests and lakes – even their design style is influenced by nature. That goes some way towards explaining why there is no contradiction between the concepts of design and sustainability for finnish label frenn: their products are designed in Helsinki and, adhering to fair trade guidelines, manufactured in northern europe using high-quality and ecological european materials. The design is keeping with the typical finnish understatement and composure. Muted greys and shades of blue dominate the minimalist tailoring of the collection by designers Antti Laitinen and Jarkko Kallio. Colour-coordinated checked patterns add subdued accents, giving the contemporary men’s line a downto-earth, relaxed attitude. And for the autumn/winter 2018 lookbook, the tone in-tone-designs have been simply and effortlessly showcased against a backdrop of minimalist architecture with a typically nordic feel. fRENNCOmpANY.COm BroSBI
mADE WITH LOvE p.e nATIon
WORk IT OUT p.e nation is definitely a reflection of me,” says fashion veteran pip edwards – an eighties child through and through. She loves everything to do with sports, fitness and retro. Together with designer Claire Tregoning, she is bringing the energetic brand to life with a women’s collection that combines technological expertise and old-school designs in a modern way. figure-hugging sexy tops and leggings dominate the range. Combined with shorts and bomber jackets, the look exudes an air of self-confidence. The highquality items ensure the perfect fit, and are a stylish alternative for everyday life.
founded in 2012, brothers dennis and Yves-oliver Wilke sell Brosbi sweaters (photo below), accessories and stationery items in their online shop. Brosbi has meanwhile become a brand that primarily reinterprets men’s classics with a nod to contemporary urban wear. With slogans and icons, they make unique pieces that are enjoying popularity beyond europe’s borders. BROSBI.COm
eMMA MuLHoLLAnd pE-NATION.COm
THE WHOLE WORLD IS A CIRCUS
fragrance designer oliver valverde has been causing a stir on the perfume market since 2009. His essences are considered the pinnacle of avant-garde perfume concepts of the 21st century. The series comes in a harmonious overall concept of design and olfactory creation and would enrich the range of any modern concept store.
ever since Kanye West ordered a backpack by emma Mulholland, the hype surrounding the designer hasn’t stopped – meanwhile stars like M.I.A., Azealia Banks and Grimes have also fallen in love with her outfits. original embellishments and macramé textures are the hallmark features of the collection. Season highlight: the denim ensemble with sparkly appliqué diamonds – a modern Harlequin look that will make you shine bright.
oLIver & Co.
BREATH Of fRESHNESS
th e m a r ke tpl a ce for fashion and lifestyle
4 â€“ 6 J U LY 2 0 1 7
W W W. PA N O R A M A- B E RL I N .C O M
Bits & pieces
easy does it “Young” is such a hackneyed term in the fashion industry. But when it comes to describing womenswear label pinko, there’s simply no getting around it if you want to convey the fresh, dynamic design style that makes the brand so unique. And the choice of colours also proves that they’re all about standing out: pinko wants you to shine bright! Vibrant turquoise, juicy yellow and an intense pink run through the collection just as much as the omnipresent denim, which, in a plain and simple wash, doesn’t distract from the design details. As well as the basic trio – hoody, sweater and jeans – pinko is also offering extravagant knitwear in preparation for the coming winter. The combination options are endless. opulent lace gives the designs a sensually feminine touch, while the use of leather and tweed adds a cool, masculine contrast. But our personal highlights are the trendy patent leather looks in rich colours with tight-fitting trousers, as well as the bold graphic cut-outs on shirts and coats. pinko.com
pop art pics At the 2017 consumer Electronics Show in las Vegas, polaroid is launching a new product for its 80-year anniversary: the polaroid pop. And it’s sure to set pola lovers’ hearts racing because the traditional format (3x4") is back and set to revive the cult surrounding the quick pics. “what better way to start this special year than to introduce a new digital instant camera with the polaroid pop?” said a delighted Scott w. hardy, president and cEo of polaroid. An innovative feature is the integrated printer with ink-free printing technology; in addition to the instant photo function, the pop features all the functions we have become accustomed to in modern digital cameras. A 20-megapixel sensor and a dual-lEd flash are nifty features in addition to the cool video function of this handy gadget. The model will be launched at the end of 2017 and will no doubt help the brand do a roaring christmas trade. poLaroid.com
Showroom EinS zwEi zwEi EinS
perfect matcH mr porTEr X crAiG GrEEn
coop coup mr porter, the global online retail portal for men stocks over 180 fashionable brands and supplies its customers with editorial content on a weekly basis. Their latest coup is a collaboration with the award-winning young designer craig Green who is creating an exclusive collection for the company. in 2012, after graduating with a master’s in Fashion from the renowned central Saint martins college in london, Green established his eponymous fashion label. And even though he’s known for the dramatic and deeply emotive qualities of his designs, the roots of his work lie firmly in down-to-earth key pieces. The best example is the worker Jacket, which frequently makes an appearance in his collections and will be available from 2 may 2017, exclusively from mr porter. mrporter.com woolrich
into tHe WiLd outerwear label woolrich has partnered up with Vibram, a manufacturer of the highest quality soles, to make a foray into the world of shoes. Two designs will be available for the autumn/winter season: a traditional mountain boot that has been adapted to the needs of the urban traveller, and – inspired by classic running shoes – a high-tech model, made with finest leather. WooLricH.eu
Together with nils von weissenfluh, boutique owner and distributor of the sustainable label knowledge cotton Apparel, fashion enthusiast Severin Steiner has founded the fashion agency Showroom Eins zwei zwei Eins (which is German for Showroom one Two Two one). Their idea is to introduce the people of zurich to original ladies’ and menswear from the premium segment. Their carefully selected portfolio of brands represents the zeitgeist, variety, mainstream and sustainability. with pragmatism, creativity and an eye for the latest trends, the aim is to establish labels including 7 For All mankind, Blauer USA, Aglini, Ecoalf, wood’d, ravn, Articles of Society and dilly Socks on the Swiss fashion market.
contemporary fashion trade show
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BITS & PIECES
HIGH FIVE In the fashion world, skatewear is a reliable gauge for future trends. As a rule of thumb, they make their ﬁrst appearance in the skatepark before being spotted on the streets. Which is why some fave skater labels are considered to be the real authorities in the fashion industry. One such brand is the Californian label Supra: with its high-top Skytop sneaker, the brand has created a real cult model – the high shaft provides stability, ensuring comfort whether you’re on your board or pounding the pavements. The latest generation, the Skytop V model, is wowing design lovers with its futuristic look in monochrome on-trend colourways.
Brands to watch
HERBERT HOFMANN HEAD OF BUYING & CREATIVE DIRECTOR VOO STORE
SUPRAFOOTWEAR.COM Herbert Hofmann curates the concept store Voo Store in Berlin-Kreuzberg, which has long since become an institution in terms of lifestyle trends. For J’N’C he reveals his new favourite newcomer labels.
SAMSØE & SAMSØE
SCANDINAVIAN SURPRISE Samsøe & Samsøe’s active streetwear blurs the boundaries between urban everyday apparel and nightlife-inspired clubwear. The Danish label goes with the ﬂow in terms of cut, resulting in a truly streamlined look. A colour scheme that focuses on natural tones and lots of blue reﬂects the typical Scandinavian understatement associated with Samsøe & Samsøe ever since it was founded in 1990. In almost every piece of the collection, a basic sportiness is combined with a surprising design twist. The width of the cargo pants for men, for example, can rival that of baggy pants, but their high waist gives them a nostalgic, elegant look. SAMSOE.COM
CUTTING EDGE Up until a while ago, Germany wasn’t really associated with elegant silhouettes. The label Drykorn was instrumental in bringing slim cut, elegantly tailored men’s suits into German stores and wardrobes. It’s exactly this skill that they’re celebrating in their autumn/winter womenswear collection 2017. A masculine double-breasted jacket with foppishly broad lapels and a slim ﬁt is sure to turn heads while sophisticated materials with interesting structures and styles like college and track-suit jackets break up the formality of the business collection. The items can be easily mix-andmatched without looking underdressed. DRYKORN.COM
The Berlin collective is doing everything right. The small, strong collection has the feel of party and everyday life while featuring complex cuts.
Daniel w. Fletchter
Concerning materials and cuts the Central Saint Martins graduate shows a mix of English heritage and sportswear inﬂuences. At the same time, he is politically active and makes a strong contribution to a united Europe.
Y / Project
Glenn Marten’s collections, which are inspired by various subcultural trends, demonstrate fashion construction at its best: they may look weird on a hanger, but they are so much more than the sum of their parts. His over-length 2-metre jeans for example, need a lot of pulling on, but once on it all makes sense.
most wanted J'N'C PreseNts
EYECATCHER IT-PIECES MUST-HAVES FAVoURITES
wHen Less Is moRe
sneakeRs zsp4 HGH, zespà aIx-en-pRovence
text ThorsTen osTerberger
these slick sneakers really cut the mustard – fine Dijon mustard in this case, because the minimal two-coloured model comes from the south of France. Zespà Aix-en-Provence is all about understatement, which explains why they have deliberately left off their logo. thanks to the striking rubber sole, these plain and simple lace-ups feel just as comfortable when worn on the deck of a yacht as they do on the dancefloor. top materials and a timeless design for him and her make them a real must-have classic.
PhotogrAPhy nikolaus brade & ivo Wojcik
IntERnAtIonAL fAsHIon tRADE sHow
EvEnInG & oCCAsIon
July 22 – 24, 2017
AREAL BÖHLER HAnsAALLEE / DüssELDoRf
dYnamIc dUo foR URban tRack & fIeLd
Jacket “GUILL ame”, tRack pants “JUan”, kInGs of IndIGo
sportswear’s influence is set to continue this upcoming season. All eyes will be on tracksuits, preferably in red or blue and in the designs of the early eighties, paired, of course, with the classic Adidas “superstars”. Denim label Kings of Indigo from Amsterdam is picking up on this trend and presenting an ensemble that can also be mixed and matched, made with 66 percent sustainable Lenzing Modal. sustainability, fair trade and quality are essential criteria for the Dutch brand. the dark blue “guillame” jacket, which will set you back around 200 euros, has two patch pockets on the front and the matching “Juan” track pants (around 150 euros) – with convenient draw cord – have a practical back pocket. the side stripe on both pieces adds a dash of retro charm. kInGsofIndIGo.com
somewHeRe oveR tHe RaInbow
RaInbow sweateR, wRanGLeR
If you didn’t wear jeans with the legendary leather patch and an embroidered “W” on the back pockets in the seventies, you were definitely out. But the history of American label Wrangler dates back a lot further and saw jeans progress from rodeo favourite to functional hiking clothing and must-have hippie outfit. the cult brand is commemorating its 70th birthday with a new collection recalling the label’s heyday and the optimistic youth culture of the early seventies. stone washes and lighter shades of blue are setting the tone this coming autumn/winter season, not to mention flares and pin-up shorts, combined with logo t-shirts or sweaters. our favourite is the re-released rainbow sweater – the ultimate classic from the seventies, which we’re sure one or two of you will remember fondly! wRanGLeR.com
tHe vIntaGe vIbe of beRLIn HanGoUts Berlin-based eyewear specialist Framers is acknowledging its roots by naming its new models after well-known Berlin squares. And the entire collection is as unadorned, chaotic and loud as the german capital itself. the “Boxi” model (220 euros) is named after the locals’ nickname for Boxhagener Platz in the trendy neighbourhood of Friedrichshain and perfectly reflects the whole Berlin vibe. All Framers glasses are made with a hard coating, are scratch-resistant, have an anti-reflective coating on the reverse of the lenses and the plain-coloured models are polarised. A perfect match for the actual “Boxi”, home not only to a weekly food and flea market, but also the scene of many a demo and concert. the bold eyewear named after this vibrant Berlin meeting place oozes vintage charm.
sUnGLasses “boxI”, fRameRs
URban spaceman’s best bUddY
daYpack RUcksack, eppeRson moUntaIneeRInG
epperson Mountaineering was born in 1972 in California – and all because Marc epperson, an avid mountaineer, couldn’t find the right rucksack. so he decided to design his own. the product range by the Montana brand is synonymous with robustness, durability and authenticity. to this day, the models are based on the original designs, with the exception of the Daypack rucksack with NAsA patches – our absolute favourite for a cool, individual look. Functionality, innovation and materials like hard-wearing nylon (Denier Cordura) and yKK zippers make this trusty companion indestructible and also more than justify its rather steep price of 250 euros. the models are meanwhile available from trendy online stores like hhv.de and also from Colette in Paris. eppeRsonmoUntaIneeRInG.com
17+18 JULY 17 AU T U M N .W I N T E R 1 8 /1 9
FA B R I C S | A D D I T I O N A L S | D E N I M & S P O RT S W E A R | D E S I G N S T U D I O S VIEWMUNICH.COM
make ameRIca GReat aGaIn!
GIGI HadId caRdIGan, tommY x GIGI
College parties, Coachella, California dreaming: supermodel of the moment gigi hadid has released a collection with tommy hilfiger that is transporting fashionistas to the West Coast of America. the tommy x gigi capsule collection impresses with details that convey the casualness of the sunshine state and beach vibes aplenty. It also features extras like rugby stripes, casual silhouettes, badges and patches. the collection’s showpiece is without a doubt the college-style openwork cardigan in off-white: as part of the “see now, buy now” sales show, the versatile piece became clickbait within seconds. the cardigan, which looks just as good at a beach barbecue as it does at an open-air festival, was an instant success, especially among influencers. tommY.com
XXV / JULY 4â€“6, 2017 BRIGHTTRADESHOW.COM
Invasion of the influencers: Dolce & Gabbana filled its runway for the fall/winter show 2017 with celebrity offspring and popular bloggers
new model army e s s ay
The growing Trend of influencer markeTing
Influencers are gaining ground. It all started with fashion bloggers squeezing their way into the coveted front row at major fashion events; now they’ve even made it onto the catwalk itself. And this is just the beginning. In the future, this new form of marketing will dominate the mainstream and help identify new gaps in the market, says David Eicher, CEO of the Munich-based digital agency Territory webguerillas.
maker being transformed into a star. Influencers have become hot commodities in the European fashion industry, which sees them as a highly desirable alternative to the usual catwalk names. Stefanie Giesinger, who appeared in the TV show “Germany’s Next Top Model”, is currently posing for Krüger; sport and fashion star Pamela Reif is modelling for established Munich fashion house Lodenfrey, and Farina Opoku aka Nova Lana Love can currently be seen working her magic for NA-KD, a global online fashion and beauty store. Over the past few years, we’ve seen fashionistas become not only the new face of commercial advertising, but also the new darlings of the celebrity-loving media. In the USA, this phenomenon has been around for quite a few years already. Well-known fashion influencers have even started to replace big Hollywood stars in those “Get the Look” articles in glamorous fashion magazines. One of the most talked-about is Alexa Chung, a 33-year-old style icon from the UK who has experienced a meteoric rise to influencer fame in recent years. Her outfits, known for their mix of styles, are now subject to the same kind of critical attention as those of film
Do you remember Calzedonia’s eye-popping campaign from last year, the one that starred Adriana Lima? Their ads, which showed the stunning model wearing just a tiny bikini, caused a sensation in Germany. There’s no doubt that the glamorous Victoria’s Secret Angel made for an eye-catching poster, and the campaign almost certainly led to an increase in the popularity – and most likely also the profits – of the Italian fashion label. But the fashion industry lives from change like no other, and this year, for its new tights campaign, Calzedonia has gambled on a completely different strategy. Rather than an exotic catwalk beauty, it’s German fashion blogger Caro Daur smiling down on us from the billboards and posters. From now on, Calzedonia is going to be relying on the allure of a social media star to market its brand. And in doing so, it’s simply following the latest trend. Daur has also been snapped up by Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana, who even sent her down the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week in January. It seems that influencer marketing is now very much prêta-porter. But business and economics student Daur is not the only opinion-
TExT DaviD EichEr
stars like Emma Watson or Jennifer Lawrence. So it comes as no surprise that talented Alexa also makes the ideal partner for companies looking for someone to help them roll out an entire collection. The British fashion
their marketing strategies. Bloggers who up to now were politely treated as quasi-journalists have now become the advertising faces of brands. It can be compared to the editor-in-chief of a respected car review magazine
German blogger Caro Daur posing for the new Calzedonia campaign
discipline, and the opportunity to prove itself as a more attractive alternative to traditional advertising is lost. Which is a real shame. a personal Tip can Be worTh more Than a million-dollar campaign The mere accumulation of contacts as a way of measuring the success of a campaign is an outdated concept. Even commercial television is moving away from this now, and it has no relevance at all for influencer marketing. Yes, audience numbers are easy to measure so they are often used to indicate success. But the new marketing is not about reaching as many people as possible. It’s about reaching the right people. Using influencer marketing means taking a much closer look at the people who really do
The new marketing is not about reaching as many people as possible. It's about reaching the right people.
retailer Marks & Spencer, for example, employed Alexa last year, not only to design their new collection, but also to star in its campaign. The result was a fashion frenzy as consumers rushed to purchase the now legendary ruffled “Harry” blouse from the Archive by Alexa collection. And at the same time around 8000 pictures appeared on Instagram under the same hashtag (#archivebyalexa). In the circus that is the fashion industry, however, this is not the only area where the influencers are taking over roles traditionally assigned to others. For some years, fashion bloggers have routinely occupied the best spots at major fashion shows, using social media to communicate back to their followers. Their assets are potentially huge target audiences (with sometimes more than two million followers, for example on Instagram or YouTube), plus huge levels of credibility. A phenomenon that started off as a hobby enjoyed by a few fashion-conscious kids has now become serious competition for the international fashion publications. Big audiences = Big Backlashes? For advertisers, this means factoring in a whole new aspect to
suddenly being asked to offer their support to a particular make of car. Could you ask for a more persuasive testimonial? But in practice, things aren’t quite that simple. In traditional marketing, it was all about how many people you could reach. Nowadays, it’s about relevance. The two factors are not always compatible so it’s important to understand which influencer is going to be useful in achieving which goal. Let me explain. While at first glance the enormous potential audience of famous influencers may seem tempting, the very size of their audience often turns out to have a backlash effect, especially for marketing companies. A typical example would be an Instagram post that Naomi Campbell – who might be assumed to know her way around the industry – mistakenly placed for adidas. Rather than offer her own personal thoughts, the catwalk queen accidentally posted the endorsement with the exact words that adidas had suggested under her photograph, and included their instructions along with it. Fails like this reflect badly on influencer marketing, turning it into nothing more than another way of getting celebrities to provide worthless testimonials. This degrades its potential as a new
influence a brand’s success: core fans, long-term employees, niche bloggers and fashion experts who are close to the brand and who communicate their knowledge on social media or at conferences, events and forums. It can also be about what’s happening at the micro-level – influencers who share their knowledge with their family, like teenagers or twentysomethings who advise their parents on what to wear. This kind of personal trust can be really important. According to a Nielsen study from 2015, consumers are far more likely to trust a personal recommendation than any other kind of advertising. The future of marketing is therefore soon going to see a huge rise in the importance of micro-influencers. I believe that for the fashion industry this is likely to be important in three completely separate market segments: for new niche products, mainstream fashion and also new, smaller designer labels. One such niche with definite potential is organic clothing. Credible opinion-makers could contribute substantially to a breakthrough in this promising sector. Here, evidently, it’s not just about fashion bloggers; experts in sustainability are needed. Experts (online, at conferences or with friends and family) who are able to communicate the positive results of making the change to ecologically produced fashion. It’s about communicating sustainability as
a way of life. And influencer marketing is going to become more important at the other end of the spectrum too. Take discount stores, for example. Brands like Takko, KiK, Ernsting’s Family and so on have long been looking for a way to change their image, partly by using celebrity testimonials. But this time it wouldn’t be unreliable celebrities pushing their brand, but opinion formers, who are far more likely to have a direct impact on their target audiences. There are plenty of ways this could be done. Why not make the most of ever-popular shop-at-home parties and dress their hostesses in your latest collection? And last but not least, smaller businesses could work with influencers. For example, independent labels have up to now relied on Facebook marketing and overpriced showrooms to access the relevant set of their local target group. Influencer marketing could be the ideal catalyst for them to become better known, perhaps by helping them connect with local young talents who could grow with them. So why wait? There’s plenty of proof that influencer marketing works. 40% of all marketing leaders say that they have accessed new audiences via influencer marketing, according to a study by the Macromedia University of Applied Sciences in Germany. 32% describe their interaction with the target audience as a major success, and 29% describe it as a way of rejuvenating their brand. It doesn’t always have to be Naomi Campbell. Sometimes, Farina, Caro, Stefanie and Pamela can create just as much of a buzz – and bring you just as much success.
david eicher In 2000, David Eicher founded webguerillas, Germany’s leading agency for alternative advertising and influencer marketing. Since 2016 the agency has been part of the Territory group, Europe’s market leader for content communication. In addition to influencer marketing, the key areas of business for the Territory webguerillas are social media, mobile marketing, guerrilla marketing and blogs. The agency’s clients include Deutsche Telekom, Google, Siemens Home Appliances, Hornbach, Mini, PayPal and Saturn. They currently employ around 160 people at their offices in Munich, Berlin, Hamburg and Cologne.
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VARIATION OF RED
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TREND REPORT FW 2017
VA R I A T I O N S O F R E D
THE COLOUR OF LOVE
S E LV E D G E RU N
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A C C R E D I TAT I O N AT W W W. S E LV E D G E RU N .C O M
OUT OF PROPORTION
OU T OF P ROP ORT ION
OVER THE TOP
TREND REPORT FW 2017
EM A NNE KR A M
5 1 RICK OWENS
2 Y/PROJECT 3 BALENCIAGA 4 COMME DES GARÃ‡ONS
1 PERRET SCHAAD 2 VIVETTA 3 LIEBESKIND 4 ACNE STUDIOS 5 ANERKJENDT
THE POWER OF SOFT
V E LV E T UNDE RG RO UND
GLOW AND TRANSPARENCY
GLOW AND T R ANSPAREN C Y
TREND REPORT FW 2017
1 BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
2 MALAIKARAISS 3 PERRET SCHAAD 4 UNISA 5 DIESEL 6 CALVIN KLEIN
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PA R I S â€¢ E V E N T C E N T E R
denim special J'N'C speCial
trend report â€“ Fit, Form, Fabric, Function british band blaenavon rocks the latest denim styles the Future oF denim production â€“ a visit in turkey
the big blue denim special
teXt THORSTEN OSTERBERGER
High-tech versus old-school, reconstruction meets sports, nineties flashbacks, the seventies vintage vibe, and the comeback of cargo and baggy jeans — these are the eclectic top trends for winter 2017
the current Calvin Klein campaign for summer 2017 (top photo) is a tribute to american classics that takes pieces from the Calvin Klein denim archive and juxtaposes them with great works of art from the second half of the 20th century. Fashion design enters into a dialogue with art — in the spirit of New York’s pop art heyday on the streets of greenwich Village or the dance floor of studio 54. the models are posing in iconic Calvin Klein designs in front of vibrant artworks by sterling ruby, richard prince and dan Flavin. For us, the campaign carries a clear message: all styles are currently in and anything goes. We are curious to see which direction designer raf simons takes in his new role at Calvin Klein Jeans. after a celebrated prêt-à-porter show and his redesign of the logo, we’re sure there’s still a lot more to come...
Women are reclaiming their space this season with accentuated shoulders that are set to be big again in the summer. oversized jackets with shoulder pads, boxy cuts and puffy legof-mutton sleeves were all over the runways at the Balenciaga, Céline, Kenzo and stella McCartney shows. and apC is also opting for expansive styles for their autumn/winter collection, as well as flying the flag for overalls, baggies and all-over denim creations — preferably in rugged raw denim fabrics. the look is a little reminiscent of the XXl denim jackets that were en vogue in the early nineties. our favourite is this apC jacket (right-hand photo), which definitely has what it takes to become a wardrobe staple. thanks to the raw fabric, the material fades over time, letting life’s adventures leave their mark. top marks for authenticity!
if you take a look at the young designers or allow yourself to become inspired by current street styles, you will see that designs with cargo-like features are becoming a mini trend. Cargo pants were first worn in the United states as part of the military uniform in the 1940s; the patch pockets on
inspired by the sport and reconstruction trends, the label dawn perfectly demonstrates how sporting elements can be skilfully blended with denim. What at first glance seems like a pair of athletic leggings (see photo) is actually a sophisticated mix of materials. alongside functional elements like reflective prints and strips, classic cuts and panel seams from the sportswear sector are transposed onto classic denim styles. Fringing, open seams and hems are also important style elements of the collection. the styles appear deconstructed and newly combined while the silhouette varies from narrow to larger loose fits with the focus remaining on the waist. skinnies are translated as high-waist denim jeans with twisted, reconstructed side seams and split seams, or as functional wear with contrasting colour blocking. the shorter leg length is here to stay and different shades like black and white are used as contrasts. and another fact that speaks in its favour is that the dawn collection is produced sustainably and responsibly.
Fit — Function — Fabric
the side enabled easy access to ammunition and radios, which have been replaced in the urban jungle of today with everyday items like smartphones and wallets. the two young designers sanne schepers and anne Bosman have dedicated themselves to precisely this look. in 2011 they both graduated cum laude from the arteZ institute of the arts in arnhem. Bosman also completed an Ma in Menswear Fashion design at Central saint Martins College in london in 2014 and won the “2012 Netherlands H&M design award”; schepers was awarded the “lichting 2011 g-star raw talent award”. another hot label with a baggies and cargo concept to watch out for is the World is Your oyster from Hong Kong.
those of us who had to wear their big brother’s hand-me-down jeans probably have quite a bit of experience experimenting with scissors. and the resulting side effect, the fraying, popular on flared jeans in the 1970s, just happens to be cool too. in the 80s, the jeans were cut off once more and thus transformed into hotpants with sexy short fringing that barely covered your behind. Both looks will be celebrating their comeback this season. Have you grown out of your favourite trousers from the eighties? No problem as the trend has also been picked up by the much-hyped label Vêtements whose design deconstructs jeans of different lengths and fringing and puts them back together again in a new look. and the classic denim labels are now following suit: a modern interpretation of the trend, for example, is being offered by popular amsterdam label Kings of indigo with extra long fringing of 15 cm on 7/8-length drainpipes (see photo). another label on the fringe trip is Marques’ almeida from london. kingsoFindigo.com
scotch & soda’s designers find their inspiration all around the globe and in the uniqueness that surrounds us – this time the amsterdam locals struck gold in argentina. For autumn/winter 2017 the label has been experimenting with heavy materials and extreme washes in a worn look (right-hand photo) under the motto “gaucho roulette” in the context of the denim collection “la prairie d’ Hydrus”. these denim designs can withstand high stress as well as extreme weather conditions – vintage, worn out, stone-washed and layered elements make the styles look as if they were aged in the wind of the pampas and tanned by the sun over many years. Casual cuts combined with intentionally dusty-looking materials and patches in the gaucho-blanket style exude the authentic desert look.
team peter stigter
Fit — Function — Fabric
Brands to watch
daniel Werner BUYer UrBaN aNd deNiM tHe KadeWe groUp sKiNNY
tokyo style Martin Höfeler and anton Jurina from Cologne have been shaking up the market since 2007. they make fashion that is not only beautiful but also fair trade and organic. With a team of sixty employees, and four collections a year, armedangels is one of the largest fair fashion labels in germany. the new “Urban Citizen” collection by the eco-pioneers combines denim and classic workwear elements with asian styles and fabrics. Casual wearability combined with highquality recycled and raw denim fabrics set the tone. the collection includes cropped pants, denim coats and skirts, but is definitely dominated by skinny jeans. Conclusion: in spite of the increasing baggy trend, drainpipes are here to stay!
daniel Werner is a frequent traveller to the world's fashion hotspots. Here are his top tips concerning up-and-coming denim labels.
rain and shine
Camel active’s functional travel wear is the answer to the changing demands of urban customers. life in the city has become extremely active, meaning that functional everyday wear is essential. the FtW denim (bottom photo) has a long-lasting waterrepellent surface as well as being breathable, supporting the wearer in their daily active life in the city. rainwater simply runs off the trousers while cycling and bonded and taped zippers guarantee protection down to the very last detail. the impregnation idea originated in the outdoor jacket sector: in a high temperature process the fabric is irreversibly bonded with the hydrophobic particles. “We applied the technology to denim, developing it together with the product development and the Wash/r&d departments of our licensing partner Bültel Worldwide Fashion,” explains guido Johnen, Creative director of Camel active.
at dr. denim — especially in the women’s collection — the current trend is for jeans made of 100% cotton. on these models, the tendency inevitably veers toward styles with loose, wide cuts with plenty of legroom. Flares are also making a comeback. “More than ever,” says alexander graah, co-founder of dr. denim, “all kinds of individual and experimental styles are in demand. secondhand materials or new items in the used look are hot right now.” the highlight of the season: stonewashed, high-waisted jeans with 1990s influences (top photo). the slightly shabby style can be perfectly paired with streetwear brands, creating an authentic and understated look. drdenimjeans.com
Julian Prince Dash
talking about the new denim generation this creative denim artisan– part of the Holy stitch denim school in san Francisco – is one of my favourites. Whether he will continue doing amazing customised stuff for denim lovers, founding his own label or become one of the leading influencers of one of the big ol´ denim players – you should definitely keep this name in mind!
the young child of l.a. denim brand Citizens of Humanity is bringing lean jeans back and a fashion-savvy WestCoast denim feel to the clued-up urban crowd. Well done!
Benzak Denim Developers
Clean contemporary design, wide cuts, sustainable design, meaning durable and long lasting, both quality and style wise. that´s what one of my favourite small denim brands is all about. plus it has an entry price range for our denim rookies!
c o l u m n b y s i e m s l u c k wa l d t
How low can you go? Our author Siems Luckwaldt is mulling over the revival of the trend for baggy jeans. Although he isn’t actually a fan of the baggy look, he does think that the style has a lot more to offer in terms of diversity and cool factor than the term itself would have us believe — all thanks to denim! This trend sits deep. It’s wide, hangs down over your sneakers, sometimes raw and sometimes stone-washed with faded areas on the thighs. It boasts large belt loops that you can casually hook your fingers through, or check the position of your vitals to see if your baggy jeans aren’t revealing more than they should be. The highlight of the cargo style is the legroom, which allows you to stow away essential purchases while giving the impression that your skinny thighs are actually shredded and muscly.
As you can tell, I am not a fervent fan of the whole baggy style and as I’m pushing 40, I’m definitely not in the appropriate age bracket to wear them anyway. But to my defence, nor am I a fan of the Slimane-esque drainpipe look, which I suspect might be putting future generations at risk with their ball-busting tight fits. And so I have to admit that extremely loose indigo trews are in the process of hooking me in and inspiring a desire that even my sceptical self can’t quite resist: revised cuts, archaic selvedge fabrics, innovative material combinations and colour nuances, not to mention the flood of Instagram photos extolling their virtues. With the reservation that we should agree that the “crown-jewel check” patting movement, inextricably linked to the baggy look, is idiotic and may well get you in trouble if you wander around certain US neighbourhoods.
Of course I wanted to strut around like “Marky” Mark Wahlberg, New Kids on the Block and MC Hammer when I was a kid. Their jeans often loosely enveloped their steeled physiques, emphasising their dancing skills and John Wayne swagger, which was cool at the time. In my mind, pop, rap and hip-hop would be stylistically inconcievable without the complimentary baggy look of the late eighties and entire nineties. It was a time to let it all hang out. Like no other piece of clothing, denim at half mast says: “I can get away with this much textile sex appeal because I have the body for it. My
butt is so damn tight that it even looks peachy in baggy jeans.” And in the event that a nasty gust of wind might make them fall down to my knees, I wouldn’t even break out in a sweat. Let them sit back and enjoy the view, just like the unforgettable sight of Marilyn Monroe standing over that famous subway vent. Anyone wearing baggies exudes selfconfidence and the ultimate coolness and has no qualms about rearranging their crown jewels every now and again. After all, “only losers wear suits”. Critics of the retro wave, which is also bringing these low-rise, extra-wide jeans back onto the shelves, will say it’s high time for us to finally step out of the “everything comes around again” cycle for good, i.e. the constant rehashing of past decades and their trends. The same principle also applies to old-school pop bands who feel the need to return to the spotlight and go on tour again after decades in the wilderness. Yes, I mean you, Take That! On the other hand, sequels like “T2 Trainspotting” do bring with them the urge to revisit low-slung combat pants and dig our BMX bikes out of the cellar, as reminders of a time when the world was simpler, better and we were all younger and less wise. Meanwhile, the Millennials and their successors are zapping themselves irreverently through fashion’s trend history and clicking their favourite styles directly into their wardrobes with a quick “like”. Well, why not? The only question that remains is whether there are any limits to the baggy look. And the answer is yes! Wide outfits usually only look sexy because the bodies they are draped on simply don’t need that much volume. Let’s not forget that low slung = revealing. So it’s time to think about what you really want to reveal: is it your CK waistband, your navel piercing, or your muffin top/beer belly curves? Another ultra-cool look is the clownishly wide style, cinched above (!) the waist with a belt or draw cord and gathered at the ankle with elasticated cuffs. Leaving you with enough freedom of movement to do your thing. Go low but with the flow, so to speak!
Proof of the baggy trend: fashionistas sPotted in florence, Milan, london, stockholM and new york
Blouson Diesel, Jeans Bally
sTyLing BoDo ernle @ nina Klein agency
phoTogrAphy suzana Holtgrave
producTion tHorsten osterBerger hAir And mAkeup tony lĂźnDstrom @ Blossom management phoTo AssisTAnT Paul langmeaD
21 Century st
A Berlin afternoon in a laid-back seventies mood: The freshest current jeans styles, shapes and fabrics, as worn by the up-andcoming London based band Blaenavon
Cape Benu Berlin, Jeans levi's
shirt Diesel, Jeans DenHam
JaCket cross Jeans, Jeans citizens of Humanity shoes converse
top vivienne WestWooD, Jeans g-star raW
pullover ricHert Beil, Jeans rePlay, hat Bally
pullover Bally, Jeans g-star raW, shoes Bally
JaCket asos, shirt & Corduroy trousers leviâ€™s vintage clotHing, Belt Model's own
Jeans Dr. Denim
leather vest leviâ€™s vintage clotHing, Jeans cHeaP monDay
“suited. i n t e r v i e w w i t h B e n g r e g o r y, B l a e n a v o n
TexT/inTervieW cloat gerolD phoTogrAphy suzana Holtgrave
Booted. kissed By Cupid.
Burberry invited gregory's band Blaenavon into the studio to do a session for their youTube playlist “Burberry Acoustic” and gregory starred in a campaign for the label in 2016. By choosing to work with the British band, which was still fairly unknown at the time, the label has proven they have a good radar for the next big thing — Blaenavon is meanwhile filling big venues like scala in London. Their energetic guitar sound with poetic lyrics, which tends towards melancholic and slightly gothic moods, can be heard on their debut album “That’s your Lot”, which was released on 7 April. We spoke to Ben gregory about music, fashion, influencers — and of course about jeans.
you modelled for Burberry’s ss16 campaign — how did that come about? our record label Transgressive have made some pretty solid connections with people that share their desire to spread the sounds of the young and inspired. Burberry were one of those. We met and spoke about our music and they thought i would fit well with that campaign. We recorded a session together too, which i feel is some of our best work. Would you have done that for any label or do you like Burberry, as a very traditional British label, in particular? you have to be very careful about what you want to represent in both the music and the fashion industries. once you stumble upon a collaboration that works for both parties, it's fantastic. Burberry is undoubtedly timeless. i liked that. They have a clear class to their brand and i think they felt the same about our music. it worked as a pairing. Do you wear your private clothes on stage or do you prefere to create a different stage persona/image? i want to paint the most extreme picture of myself on stage. you can be ridiculous and it's brilliant. The things you want to wear at the post office but you're too afraid. The stage is just the madman's post office.
our recent issue is all about jeans. Do you like to wear jeans and what do you associate with the fabric? What’s your favourite cut, do you prefer any labels? i wear jeans when i want my legs to feel cool. it's work. it's leisure. it's pleasure. you can rock jeans with anything. i've got two pairs that get widely recycled. one are Burberry — boyfriend jeans vibe. The others are nudie. proper bootcut badboys. Wear those to the supermarket and see what happens. diggin' it. today it’s all about influencer marketing. Do you consider yourself an influencer? if our music inspires others to pick up an instrument and express themselves then that's amazing. We all started doing this because our attention has been captured by something remarkable. people message us sometimes saying they've started a band because of us and that feels pretty awesome. With regards to fashion, it's good fun to put the most dramatic version of yourself on display and see if it takes off. How would you describe your personal style? suited. Booted. kissed by cupid.
fashion loves MusiC On-trend 2017: Musicians and artists are currently in high demand for cross-promotions
Big sean The award-winning rapper and kanye West’s buddy is Puma’s new brand ambassador and set to design an exclusive collection. release date: spring 2018.
BoBBy gillespie The songwriter and lead singer of primal scream is the first in a line of artists to be presented by Gucci and gQ as part of the video series "The performers".
cross-marketing between fashion brands and musicians — labels like Ben sherman and converse have been showing us how it’s done for quite a while now. And during his time at saint Laurent, hedi slimane even turned the discipline into an art form. But the focus certainly doesn’t have to be on superstars — these days it’s much cooler to work with newcomers from various subcultures. our J’n’c cover model Ben gregory summarises the win-win situation of this marketing concept perfectly: for both sides, the cooperation between fashion labels and young musicians is “a chance to reach an audience otherwise unattainable.”
Do you think the fashion industry can have a positive effect on a musician’s career by inviting band members to feature in their campaigns and for example by posting songs and videos, as Burberry did in your case? it certainly can. it's an outlet. A chance to reach an audience otherwise unattainable.
pete wentz on the runway of this year's first nyFW the songwriter and bass player of alternative rock band Fall out Boy cut a fine figure in designs by Philipp Plein.
After a very relaxed fashion shoot in photographer suzana holtgrave's cosy seventies themed Berlin flat, Blaenavon singer and guitarist Ben gregory took the time to have a little chat with us.
Baykanlar F e aT u r e B ay k a n l a r
The FuTure oF denim producTion
orhan Baykan, general manager Baykanlar
text Björn Lüdtke
today’s markets are moving fast and customer demands can be confusing. they want speed — but they also want sustainability. and the market for denim is no exception. But how can both these needs be met? orhan Baykan of turkish denim manufacturer Baykanlar knows how to read the signs of the times. We accepted his invitation to take a look around their factory in eastern anatolia — where the future of denim production has already begun.
PhotograPhy Christoph MaCk
he world is changing. this is nothing new to people who work in the textile and fashion industries, as change is inherent to our work. one thing that currently drives and accelerates this change is technology. the example might be overused, but it’s the best proof: just look around you, in cafés, on the streets, even in meetings – how many people do you spot with their heads bowed over their smartphones?
When you talk to orhan Baykan about technology, his eyes light up: “In the 21st century, everything is about technology. Look at your phone and how it helps you to solve problems – and how quickly! you have to stay up to
speed. Without technology, you won’t be able to improve your business.” Denim manufacturer Baykanlar was founded in 1998 by three brothers, one of whom is orhan, the general manager. “Back then, everybody wore denim and we think they always will. We wanted to explore the european markets, so we started the company. after a year or two, we established a small factory in Istanbul.” to begin with, they took on orders to produce what the designers and labels would ask for. Now their role is a more integrated one, sometimes it is even reversed. It is not rare for designers to consult Baykanlar on up-and-coming trends. “our designers, washing experts, fab-
ric buyers and sales team visit the key markets and trade fairs all over the world for inspiration,” and because of that, the manufacturer now develops 5000 unique styles per year for their customers. “the process has turned into a collaboration. gone are the days when our clients would send us through their designs and our role was to simply produce them. you need to collaborate if you want to be quick enough.” and quick is exactly what you need to be on today’s challenging market. the competition has become global. as a denim producer, you’re no longer competing on a european level: China, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh are
meanwhile also in the picture. Not to mention a new kid on the block: africa is emerging as an important manufacturing player too. Customers’ demands are becoming increasingly confusing. on the one hand, they want new products every four weeks, while on the other they are demanding that these products are sustainable. and on top of all that, there is no longer that one trend that all stakeholders – from designer, to supplier, to end consumer – can rely on. everything is possible, from skinny to the wider legged mom style. only suppliers who can react to the changing demands of their customers have a chance of surviving. entrepreneurs always had to be visionary and the successful ones are those who manage to adapt quickly to a changing business environment. at today’s pace, that is only possible with the use of technology. Which doesn’t necessarily mean that your product or production process needs to be technological. the actual assembly of clothes is still done by hand – and will continue to be for a while yet. those of you who have ever tried to fit a sleeve into a tailored jacket will know, as it has more width at its opening than the arm hole of the jacket’s body – which basically means that you have to fit something bigger into something smaller. It’s like trying to get toothpaste back into the tube and that demands an enormous amount of intuitive skill, a skill that robots don’t yet have. even on jeans, only a few seams can be done by robots, and only if they are straight. and you’d have to re-programme robots for every single style. 350 of the 1500 employees who work at the sites in Istanbul and Malatya work on the sewing floor. however, in order to be able to keep up, you need to check at which point in the value chain technology it might be useful to be more efficient, quicker and more adequate to meet the demands of your clients. “We’re always looking where we can implement technology in our business. this could be in any department. We are continually looking for new technologies,” says orhan Baykan. the goal is a data-driven factory where all internal and external activities are connected through the same information platform, where customers, designers and operators can share information on everything from initial concepts, to installation, to performance feedback throughout
ation chain you’ll find technology. It starts with the pattern design and cutting and doesn’t end with robotic ironing. one innovation orhan Baykan is particularly proud of is “his” oB 48 (oB being his initials). It’s a robotic machine that sprays dye onto denim trousers. this is a process that used to be done manually. Now, the workers merely place the trousers on the machine, which rotates the trousers to a cabin where the spraying is done by robot arms. “our employees are very important to us. We want to protect them. that’s what we explained to the engineers and this is the machine we came up with together.” Its design is adapted from the automotive industry. Since the application of the colour is now automated, less paint is used and surplus chemicals are caught by a kind of waterfall system, which significantly decreases the exposure to chemicals. and the trousers now all look
identical, which means less risk of failing potential quality checks. technology also helps with another concern that is close to Baykan’s heart: sustainability. It is not something that all his clients ask for. But, “We follow what is going on in the markets very closely and in many of them, organic, sustainability and eco labels are important topics. We want to be ready for the growing demand.” In 2016, the manufacturer turned out 8.5 million units, a number that is expected to increase. In 2017, one million of those units will have the Nordic Swan ecolabel. “reduce, reuse, recycle, renew and repair” is the motto. however, that is “nothing new” at Baykanlar. that is not to say that every unit that leaves the factory meets sustainable standards, but they could if the customer demanded it. their washing machines use less water and ozone and lasers can be used to bleach and fade. other options
include the use of organic cotton, Fairtrade cotton or recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. So what comes next? “transparency is the new green,” Baykan tells us. Customers increasingly want to know where the raw materials for their products come from, who puts them together and in what conditions. as we have seen, the Baykans don’t hesitate too long once a market development has been identified. the company is audited by a member of SeDex, a collaborative platform for sharing responsible sourcing data on supply chains. and they seem to be taking it seriously. after we finish our guided tour of the factory and the interview, our photographer is free to roam and take pictures. transparency at its best.
the lifecycle of a product. Where operators will be able to access materials on demand, collaborate with robots and rely on virtual work instructions presented at the point of use. that’s the vision. Let’s have a look at what is happening already: Baykanlar operates two sites. the headquarters are in Istanbul, while the factory is located in an industrial zone outside Malatya, a city with a population of around 400,000 in eastern anatolia. the denim manufacturer is the second biggest employer in town, after a call centre. When approaching Malatya by plane, you fly over endless orchards of apricot trees. the dried apricots from the area are renowned throughout turkey and the rest of the world. It is the end of winter and there is something desertlike to the landscape. When approaching the factory, nothing indicates that the future of denim production starts here. at many points of the value cre-
Baykanlar — a state-of-theart factory ready for each and every demand: “there is no one single trend anymore. today, the rich and the poor want to look the same. europe is becoming increasingly egalitarian. however, people don’t want to wear the same clothes for too long. they want endless choice at the same time as safe and ecological options,” says general manager orhan Baykan.
calik denim denim special 68 62
This year, Calik Denim celebrate their 30th anniversary. Reason enough for us to drop by their headquarters in Istanbul and have a chat with the Turkish manufacturerâ€™s managing director Hamit Yenici. He tells us why Turkey is a good destination for everything denim, why competition is beneficial if you want to stay on top of your game and why green could well be the new blue.
PHOTOgRAPHY CHRisTopH MaCk
you need to be the innovator
Where does the competition come from? In Italy they have lost a lot of mills but the country still has a good name. Asia is challenging us. Especially Pakistan, India and China. Ten years ago they were happy to make the more basic products but that’s no longer enough for them now. They are starting to do their own R&D and hiring talents with experience of working in Italy. And they are learning fast. As yet, Africa is not a big threat but it is being tested by the labels. It is fresh and new but not very strong at the moment. However, that might change over the next ten years – as it has with Asia. So here in Turkey we need to be different. If you simply do what everybody else is doing, then it’s the money that does the talking. You need to be the innovator, the first in the market. There is only one way to survive and that is to do it right.
What are Turkey’s strengths? The entire industry of a country has to be in good shape, from sourcing the cotton to the finishing of a garment. If you don’t have the raw materials, you need to import them, which might be difficult. Spinning, weaving, dyeing. We are extremely strong in garment manufacturing. Our cotton supplier is only 200 or 300 kilometres away from our plant in Malatya. If you get the cotton from the US, it takes between four and five weeks. Of course, you can plan it but it involves risks. Will you order enough or not? Will it arrive in time? If you do it all in Turkey, it requires a lot less risk management. Some of the manufacturers are only a five minute drive away from our factory. We finish a fabric, ten minutes later they can cut it. In Turkey, we can cover the entire chain. Our main market is Europe. It takes three hours to get here from Berlin, four from London. We are kind of in the same time zone, which is very important. If you have a six-hour difference, they’re ending the day when you start it. If you have any problems, you might have to wait an entire day until you get an answer. And of course the proximity to Europe makes our delivery times faster than, let’s say, from Bangladesh. If one of your products sells really well, we can react quickly. It has always been difficult to forecast how many garments you are going to sell. Imagine you have 10,000 items in the stores but the demand is for 13,000. If you can’t get those extra 3000 units into the stores at the right time, your competitor
will. You might also end up selling only 8000 of those units. If you produce in Turkey, we can create a flow and produce according to demand, rather than having to order in bulk. How important is it to do your own R&D? As I mentioned before, we need to be different and we need to do it right if we want to survive in today’s challenging markets. You don’t want to be a follower. You want to be a company with its own ideas. You have to feel future trends and adapt your product to those trends. You have to be extremely open-minded, your eyes and ears need to be everywhere. Not just in the denim industry, also on social media, in the chemical industry, electronics, whatever’s important to the customers needs to be important to us too. It’s not just about cotton, yarn and indigo. It’s not that simple anymore. The best denim colour is of no use if your end consumer insists on a sustainable product and you pollute the world with it. That’s why R&D is such an important element. What role does sustainability play? It is one of the key elements for proper denim. If you don’t care about sustainability, your value chain won’t be complete. This is becoming more and more important, especially for younger generations. We have made a very good investment. Each and every one of our machines has their own energy consumption meter. We are monitoring each step and each
machine, as well as how much energy and water we consume. We are in a position to be able to tell our customer how much we use for one particular style. For each step we have annual targets. How can we make reductions? Indigo will always be blue but we want to make sure that our blue will become greener. Even if the customers don’t care about it now – we know that they will eventually and then we’ll be ready. Does the innovation come from you, the supplier, or the designers? I would say it’s a loop. One of the best sources for new ideas is our customers. You might think you had the best idea but you need to listen to your customers and what they want. Then you need to adapt. If you’re in that loop, you’ll do good business. If you’re not, it becomes difficult. I couldn’t say that we are the starting point. Sometimes a very simple tip from the customer could be the beginning. Finding out what our customers need is the best source for new ideas. There is no clear beginning or end when it comes to research. What’s new from the labs? There’s a look that is more vintage. Originally, back in the day, it used to be rigid material, 14.5 or 15 oz. But people no longer want to sacrifice comfort for looks so we are combining vintage looks with modern comfort. With bi-stretch for example. Nobody wants to sit in the bathtub to shrink their jeans anymore!
Turkey is facing global competition when it comes to the production of denim. How is Calik Denim positioned? I’d say we are in an extremely advantageous position. The international competition gives you a huge push to be better. There were three denim fabric suppliers in Turkey twenty years ago. Now there are more than twenty. Competition is the reason why we are gaining a better positioning. Not only in denim production, but also in garment producing and finishing. The level of quality has risen. These days there are are a lot of people in Turkey who know how to make a good denim product.
in t ervie w wi t h hami t yenici, cal ik denim
TExT BjöRn LüDTke
Jacket Woolrich, Shirt Diesel, t-Shirt only & sons, ShortS Diesel, Belt leviÂ´s Accessories, SneakerS ADiDAs faShion
photography AlexAnDrA kinGA FAkete @cosmopolA production & styling BoDo ernle @ ninA klein hair and makeup steFAn kehl @ FAme AGency
neW kidS on the Block
headBand lAcoste, Jacket vAlentine GAuthier, WindBreaker nike, Skirt lAcoste, ShoeS clArks
models chArly @meGA moDels, sven GerAets@m4
Jacket Diesel, Shirt WeekDAy, troUSerS cheAp monDAy, SneakerS nike faShion
BomBer Jacket G-lAB, Jacket sAmsØe & sAmsØe, PoloShirt lAcoste, hot PantS Diesel, SneakerS nike
dreSS lAcoste, WriStBand nike, ShoeS ZiGn faShion
SWeatShirt ADiDAs, Shirt lAcoste, hot PantS WrAnGler, SneakerS ADiDAs
stefan kehl using chanel & ShU UemUra art of hair
Jacket lAcoste, Shirt Antony morAto, ShortS leviÂ´S mADe & crAFteD faShion
BloUSon stein rohner, Jacket ADiDAs, Skirt lAcoste
INTErvIEW CHeryll müHlen
i n t e r v i e w j ü r g e n w o l f, h o m e b o y f o u n d e r
welcome to the club
Back in the nineties, it was the hottest bands, skaters and snowboarders who helped the Homeboy brand achieve huge popularity. Coinciding with the return of the streetwear trend, the label is now making a comeback with a new concept under the name Club Homeboy.
Jürgen Wolf kept a close eye on the market and reacted in the right place at the right time. His brand Homeboy came to an end in the early 2000s, but around one decade later his savvy radar noticed the growing potential and increasing demand for streetwear. So around two years ago, he launched the quiet yet perfectly timed comeback of the label under the name Club Homeboy. The “Club” addition to the name isn’t just there for the sake of it, but should be taken literally. It signifies a new strategy
– a new, modern way of doing business. Jürgen Wolf no longer believes in “the old system”. He has learned from his mistakes, and those of others. Checking the collection, production, delivery and timing – these tasks are all down to him. There are no warehouse, no sales reps, no official headquarters. Just Jürgen Wolf, his team and Club Homeboy. Jürgen, before we talk about the present day, let’s delve briefly into the past. Why did you establish Homeboy?
I started out with self designed T-shirts in a surf store in 1985. Two years later I ended up at Airwalk. And when I wanted to import Stüssy in 1988, and they turned me down, I developed Homeboy to avoid standing there empty handed. I was clutching at straws. Can you explain that in more detail? After having clarified all the details regarding distribution for Germany, I flew to Stüssy in Los Angeles. I wanted to take the complete collection back with me, apart from the silk shirts. When they asked me why, I told them that silk shirts weren’t relevant for Germany. And their response couldn’t have been clearer: “If you don’t understand the silk shirts, you don’t understand Stüssy so you’re out.” I was 28 years old at the time and was asking myself: “What do they mean, out?”
And then what happened? Was Homeboy your plan B? You could say that. I listened to a lot of hip-hop around that time and the word “homeboy” would crop up a lot in the songs. When I flew back to Germany, I created a few visuals, had them printed in Frankfurt and explained to my representatives that things hadn’t worked out with Stüssy, but that I’d had time to fly to New York, where I had met a few guys from the skate, BMX and hip-hop scene in the Lower East Side, who had a brand called Homeboy. So you made the whole story up? Yes. (laughing) It was completely made up. And I only got away with it because there wasn’t any internet back then. (laughing) But it worked. Yes, they thought it was all awesome. Shortly afterwards
Cool story, but it could have gone very wrong. Why take the risk? Back then a streetwear brand from Germany wouldn’t have gone down as well as one from the USA. But it just goes to show how you could start something with such simple means back then. Speaking of simple means: since your Homeboy comeback, you haven’t felt the need to set up any classic headquarters. Yes, as you can see, there is no office. When I started with Club Homeboy I knew for sure that I didn’t want to do things like I had in the past.
Surfer offspring and Club Homeboy associate Julian Wolf (below) hangin' loose
Which means? I didn’t want to fall back into the old way of doing things. That would mean I’d be back in exactly the same situation as the rest of the industry – especially the way the market is at the moment.
Overall, you seem very unhappy with the current market situation. My son Julian has had to grow up in a time in which the Tom Tailors/Jack & Jones of this world were opening up one shop-inshop after another. I’ve totally been ignoring it all, waiting for it to pass. I’ve always said that the growing market conformity that is imposed on everybody is responsible for wiping out any individuality among consumers and therefore for the entire retail sector. The unrealistic delivery times also really annoy me. Don’t come asking me for a down jacket in July! Along the lines of: “the early bird catches the worm”. But the early bird can only catch the worm if it pops its head out of the soil early. But not enough of them are doing that. Why should I sacrifice the solid business I’ve established for that? you certainly don’t mince your words. Yes, but now my children and perhaps many others of the same generation are hungry for something more than what they already know. The enthusiasm for smartphones has meanwhile waned. But the Apple phenomenon has at least shown young people what a brand means. And now, suddenly all over the world they’re noticing: Oh, there’s something beyond that that is really cool. And by this I mean streetwear, in the form of Supreme, Palace or as far as I’m concerned also Nike, Adidas or Puma. It’s all slotting together like Tetris blocks and streetwear fits exactly into that space. The perfect time to make a comeback with Homeboy? It was more of a classic “day X”. I suddenly felt like making clothes again – but for an older audience. For those lost souls on the menswear market who just don’t feel at home there. I’d already finished the first designs that I wanted to launch under my own name. But one night I woke up and thought to myself: are you crazy? Why bother with all that stress with the trademark rights; I already have a brand with an incredible level of awareness and its name is Homeboy. But Homeboy isn’t necessarily going to speak to the style of older people in the classic sense… That’s right, one year after deciding to get back into fashion, my son came home with a Homeboy shirt and went out partying in it. The next day he told me how many people had asked him
about it. Two weeks later one of my daughter’s friends from Berlin called and told me that her mates were buying Homeboy clothing on Ebay. So I got them all to come to my house in Frankfurt. I had a gang of 23-year-old boys and girls sitting there who knew so much about Homeboy and they all thought it was really cool. My son just sat there next to me grinning and said: “Hey dad, I told you so! You have to bring it back.” The birth of Club Homeboy? I didn’t want to go out and find sales reps, open an office etc. All that’s in the past now. And then while I was surfing I came up with the idea for Club Homeboy in about half a second. What’s the concept behind it? It was clear to me that I had to do things differently. After that I called up a few people from the old days and sat down with them. I wanted to work with them, eye to eye, so we could each support each other. The core issue was fast delivery. Why should I rent out a warehouse when they all have one? I could import the items, repack them and pass them on. We don’t need to meet at tradeshows, but could get together at my house. In return the retailers get a higher margin. A brand new and efficient system. And the concept took off. What is the current comeback of streetwear bringing with it? Within the streetwear market – this may not be new, but it’s the only megatrend I can see in the next ten years – there is the steady menswear aspect, which basically remains consistent throughout. Streetwear is a small self-contained cosmos that has more subtle rules than say, a Tom Tailor-style world. And what would they be? Concerning streetwear, there are people who just have a feeling for whether something is really cool or not. They don’t seem to care about cool in other fashion retail sectors because every four weeks they have new items carted into their stores that the type of person who doesn’t care either will buy anyway. It’s just about selling clothes. But with streetwear it’s different. And we shouldn’t forget, and that’s the new thing about the whole story, that concerning streetwear in the nineties, you were considered old when you were 28. Today it’s the other way around. We value people who value values.
Homeboy was presented at the ISPO and the Cologne tradeshow, with exactly the same story. But six months after that I did reveal the truth during a meeting. And when the press gradually found out about it years later, no one was interested anymore anyway.
What do you think about the triumphal comeback and
and he would still look cool. But only one in a thousand people are like him. So even if I have something awesome in my collection, I may only be able to sell it to one out of a thousand potential customers. So it makes no sense to stock it. There aren’t enough cool guys like Pharrell Williams around here.
rapper Cro wearing a jacket by Homeboy
the whole hype surrounding streetwear? People always want to be at the top. And that’s also where streetwear belongs. It had been at the tip of the pyramid all along. But then it gradually dropped to the bottom. And now we are seeing all kinds of companies suddenly noticing that the nineties and logo shirts are on-trend again. So they’re wasting no time in dragging the trend down to the bottom - by paying 100 bloggers to wear their logo shirt and knocking it out for 12.95 euros a piece.
What do you think about bloggers and influencers? In principle I think they’re cool. They’re part and parcel of the present day, but we shouldn’t be relying on any old people who only ever blog about the freebies they’ve been sent. What kind of a message is that? If a brand gets 100 top bloggers on board and dresses them in their shirts, then that’s not a trend. What we need is a stronger, clear message for the end consumer. And that only works if we all take the same line – the trade press included.
Do you ever have the feeling that retailers are already shunning trends before they’ve even had the chance to reveal their full potential? Absolutely. But I’ve been seeing this for 30 years: to start with no one believes in anything. But then in the long run they end up holding onto things for too long. If the industry has only just understood that the logo trend is coming,
someone else will come along and predict that the very same trend will be over by autumn. Is that a typical German phenomenon? Yes. In other markets they’re happily exploring new paths. A trend builds up over three to four years, until it’s really established itself. And then once it’s there, it’s the hot new property and then it suddenly falls out of favour. But streetwear is something bigger. Something for the soul – for everyone from the 20-yearold to the well-informed 50-yearold. I’d even be prepared to put my neck on the line and say that the current streetwear trend will be around for at least another ten years. The problem at the moment is that it’s not being seen as the streetwear trend, but only as a logo trend. But that’s just one part of the picture that helps prepare the ground for the rest. So what can we expect? I can’t say yet, but we started working on what we’re doing today five years ago. Which makes it all the more gratifying that streetwear has also developed in the direction it has. It remains to be seen whether that was down to luck or expertise. But you could say that we already have a plan for the next five years. And what does that entail? retailers are getting “the catch of the day” regularly thrust under their noses by the press, either weekly or even daily, meaning that they’re totally losing sight of what the real catch is. The media
don’t just want to sell a certain number of items, they want to create an added value for the retailer. We’re all sitting in the same boat called Germany – by far the largest European market.
So the problem with the Germans isn’t their lack of daring, but a question of personality and style? More or less, but that’s the advantage of streetwear. Even at its most fashionable, it isn’t particularly extravagant. Most of the items we offer are basics. The collections we make are easy to understand and the majority of our target group can wear our stuff. And that’s precisely where the opportunity for the retailers lies. I can say that the streetwear trend enables me to reach a really large mass of end consumers. Selling a logo in the streetwear sector isn’t an easy task, and not everyone will succeed. But Homeboy is the third oldest streetwear brand in the world. Our designs have been worn by the WuTang Clan, Fanta vier, Cypress Hill, the whole lot. You wouldn’t be able to afford that these days. The brand foundations are in place which is why we’ve gained acceptance. Authenticity at its best. Yes, exactly. There’s a demand for it. And the retailers really want to sell Club Homeboy too. They want to be handed a story they can tell their customers.
The current streetwear trend will be around for at least another ten years. We need to start taking our destiny into our own hands and stop believing we can’t do anything except make cars. Aren’t the buyers also responsible for being more daring and confident when it comes to fashion and therefore setting an example to the end consumers? The problem at the top of the fashion industry isn’t necessarily the lack of understanding or daring, but a question of the type of person. Someone like Pharrell Williams can wear a potato sack
What do you think the future holds for Homeboy? The triumphal comeback of the baggy is definitely on the horizon and who better than us to ring in the start of this new era? The new Homeboy trouser collection not only includes baggy jeans, but also baggy chinos. Just like back in the day; we’re bringing forgotten styles back to people’s minds. No doubt most people will be saying: “Are you for real? This looks crap!” And that’s precisely why we will win the day! The rebellion continues. Basically, I’m really happy about what’s happening right now. We, the Homeboy team, are so much on the same page, and that’s an incredible feeling. After all, unity is what makes you.
return of the chAmPionS
REFRESH! REVITALISE! REGROUP! THE REMARKABLE STREET STYLE REVIVAL
EST. IN 1919 BY THE FEINBLOOM BrOTHErS, USA
What should you do when you can’t find the skiwear you’re looking for? It’s simple: just make your own. That’s what Leonardo Servadio was doing when he established Ellesse in Perugia, Italy in 1959. But his major success came later on in the 1970s and 80s with the revolutionary ski trousers with integrated knee pads and when noteworthy sports stars like Boris Becker started wearing Ellesse on court. Fast forward to 2017 and the company is staying true to carrying its heritage into the next century. Fun facts: Ellesse was the first label to prominently feature its logo on clothing. And incidentally, it doesn’t actually depict a shell, but the tips of two skis in combination with a tennis ball. And the name? That comes from Leonardo Servadio’s initials, L.S. You learn something new every day!
EST. IN 1877 BY HELLY JUELL HANSEN, NOrWAY
helly hAnSen EST. IN 1911 BY THE FILA BrOTHErS, ITALY
filA Fila’s headquarters were moved to South Korea in 2007, but the history of the former underwear company began more than a century ago with the Fila brothers in Italy. Enrico Frachey was appointed managing director in 1974 and promptly started producing sportswear. Which turned out to be a smart move. The brand’s success has a lot to do with tennis player Björn Borg, who liked to wear outfits by the Italian label for his tournaments. That paved the way for their success in the 90s. Talented russian designer Gosha rubchinskiy is being credited with the brand’s present-day comeback. With the use of Cyrillic lettering, he has helped the logo achieve a new cult status. And Fila’s growing popularity can also be attributed to its countless collaborations, with Urban Outfitters and En route for example.
Those oversized jackets are the first thing that springs to mind whenever we see the two Hs. But could you ever have imagined that the history of the brand, which became a surprise hit on the hip hop scene, actually dates as far back as the 19th century? Under the name Helly J. Hansens Oljeklædefabrik, the company started out producing oilskin apparel for sailors. But its real heyday came with the arrival of the new century: in the 1920s they produced synthetic fabrics for the first time, before moving on to mainly PvC. This was followed in the 70s by high-quality workwear and survival clothing, which opened the door to the company’s expansion into the outdoor and sportswear sector – and subsequently the world of streetwear. And the rest, as we know, is history.
EST. IN 1959 BY LEONArDO SErvADIO, ITALY
American brand Champion was one of the first labels to celebrate a big streetwear comeback. Whether sported by influencers, models or profashionals, last year’s Fashion Week street styles were very much dominated by Champion and its logo – whether emblazoned on a large scale or in its more understated version. Which is hardly surprising because the brand is a pioneer when it comes to sweatshirts, which it first produced in the 1930s. In the 50s the label came up with the innovative ‘reverse Weave’, before going on to invent the hoodie in the 70s. Although Champion isn’t showcasing any revolutionary inventions for the current winter/spring 2017 season, it does have plenty of classic items up its sleeve that are sure to rekindle feelings of nostalgia.
KnoWledGe IS poWer TEXT CHERYLL MÃœHLEN
brand StaGInG & product preSentatIon
The Dfrost team: managing directors Christoph Stelzer,Nadine Frommer and Fabian Stelzer
SaleS & cuStomer SerVIce
can you help me? And that’s exactly where Dfrost comes in with “My Helpdesk”, a form of “edutainment” with the aim of turning this weakness into a strength. And it goes without saying that it takes a very digital approach. “My Helpdesk” is a digital knowledge, inspiration and training platform for sales assistants, which primarily stands out with its easy-to-watch tutorials. Pages and pages of verbose, incomprehensible text and outdated design in the form of visual merchandising manuals could soon become a thing of the past. After all, efficiency and profit generation aren’t just about the perfect supply chain. Even the most professionally selected product ranges are no guarantee for good sales figures. And neither are performance indicators or positioning models. Fashion is in flux. Retail not so
much. That needs to change. And it isn’t just the perennial bad guy, the internet, who is to blame – according to the digital platform Buying Show, almost 60 percent of Germans prefer bricks and mortar retail – but also bemoan the dwindling service and its declining quality. “More than ever before, selling is dependent on factors beyond the product, i.e. less via the goods themselves and much more via the emotions and experiences associated with them,” adds Frommer. “It’s about the positive atmosphere that invites the consumer to spend time in the stores and speaks to their sensory stimuli in an emotional way.” So, in addition to the tempting assortment, inspiring Instagram accounts and engaging Facebook posts, the store atmosphere, and above all the customer service, need to follow a customer-oriented code with a professionally implemented approach. Leaving people to buy rather than selling is the idea – but in a new carefully conceived and reviewed form. The antiquated system of seasonally changing and hard-to-digest guidelines at the POS just doesn’t cut it anymore. The knowledge that needs to be shared is getting lost on the way to the shop floor. Knowhow? Think again. “These days, sales assistants are not being trained adequately. That means they don’t have an overview of the range and don’t know, for example, how key items could be best combined and presented. Or they don’t understand the idea behind the campaign or can’t answer questions about where the materials come from,” explains Christoph Stelzer, also managing director and co-founder of Dfrost. Simply keeping the cash desk tidy and folding the goods away on the shelves is no longer enough for the discerning, well-informed customer of today. But how are sales assistants supposed to
advise them if they already know what they want and what they’re buying as soon as they enter the store? The answer to that is another question: does the customer really know what they want? SaleS Staff aS brand ambaSSadorS As an interface, “My Helpdesk” helps to train the staff on the shop floor so they become qualified brand ambassadors and style advisors. They should be able to recognise the wishes of the end consumer and also fulfil them with their extensive background knowledge. After all, trust and satisfaction create loyalty – in an ideal case, long term. The multilingual platform should therefore be adapted to each company. “As every brand has its own needs, we’ve built a tool into `My Helpdesk´ that can be individually customised to the requirements and wishes of the client,” says
More than ever before, selling is dependent on factors beyond the product. NADINE FROMMER
Nadine Frommer. “Ultimately, we see this platform, which is the result of a procedural, intensive cooperation, as a sort of brand intranet – but without being too technologically overwhelming. It’s all very intuitive and can be very simply used wherever you happen to be on a tablet or smartphone.” Sales staff can literally receive step-by-step training with inspiring style guides, short, concise videos and explanations that are easy to replicate and understand. Knowledge about the collection, campaign launches, promotions,
company and brand philosophy, retail space concepts, capacity planning, zoning of the shop floor and even tips and guidelines on the handling of orders and returns can be accessed easily at any time. And that’s not all. Streaming the latest fashion show? A film about the designer? General care instructions? Fulfilling customer wishes? All of this, and more, is now possible. the human factor The service offer of “My Helpdesk” should, in a nutshell, include inspiration, training, coaching and monitoring. According to Dfrost, there are virtually no limits to its possibilities and it represents a highly promising solution for the POS and retail trade. It’s a modern tool that enables retailers to anticipate their customers’ needs and ensure long-term loyalty. And that is only possible with the most valuable currency you’ll find in retail at the moment: emotions. But despite all the talk of technology, the person behind the brand ambassador is still the most important variable in this equation, which isn’t really rocket science. Because if the sales assistants aren’t right for the job, “My Helpdesk” can’t work miracles either. But it still remains to be seen whether the retail vision by the Stuttgart company leads to a positive change. Dfrost is already gaining its first experience in this respect with the Leica brand and is hoping to launch “My Helpdesk” by the end of the year. But one thing is already certain: companies are investing a lot of time and money to reach their customers. So it only seems logical that they should be giving their own staff the same amount of attention. 68
Emotions are the driving force of consumerism. “The emotional ‘want’ replaces the factual ‘need’, says Nadine Frommer, CEO and co-founder of the Stuttgart Agency for Retail Identity Dfrost, perfectly summarising the actual problem. While countless companies are working on the DNA of their brand, repositioning themselves, presenting themselves in new ways and give people a glimpse behind the scenes on all conceivable channels, the consumer is curiously watching and learning. And what makes it so ironic: the store’s staff on the shop floor rarely gets similar levels of information, let alone real in-depth knowledge. They’re simply being left out of the equation. And this is having a negative effect on the quality of the brand and product presentation. After all, what’s the point of an informed, emotionally involved customer if the sales assistants at the point of sale can’t keep up?
Stationary retailers secretly blanch at the thought of the informed customer who knows their stuff because, without any malicious intention, they inadvertently expose the weaknesses of the sales assistants. And the reason for this is very simple: because they’re in the know. The consequence is declining customer loyalty. The new “My Helpdesk” system by DFROST aims to remedy this situation. How? By training staff quickly and competently wherever they are – all via digital media. Definitely a model with potential.
SPRING /SuMMeR 2018
TexT cheryll mühlen
PREMIUM 4 — 6 JUly 2017 USP: Brand Power and lifeStyle STATION BERlIN lUCKENWAldER STRASSE 4-6 10963 BERlIN
PREMIUM POWER PACKAGE
The Premium Group is very much ahead of the game on the German tradeshow market, which is mainly down to its impressive manpower. After all, Premium enjoys the privilege of sharing in the success of its sister tradeshows Seek, Bright and now also Show&Order. And it’s not just the fair itself that profits from this, but, above all, its visitors. On a total area of 33,000 m², including the Kühlhaus venue next door, visitors are guaranteed to find all the seasonal inspiration and information they could possibly need – provided by just under 1000 exhibitors and 1800
collections. The segments are just as varied and leave no wish unfulfilled: men’s, ladies’ and sportswear will be gracing the halls with its presence. It was only in January 2017 that the hosts reorganised the outdoor area to meet the needs of the retailers. The themes of activewear and healthy living are also given a stage at Premium, not to mention the fashion favourite denim. Shoes and accessories complement the event’s extensive offer. But in view of its growing brand and segment diversity, which is certainly a long-term reaction caused by the demise of Bread & Butter, the
name ‘Premium’ might be a little outdated. ‘Advanced Contemporary Fashion’, as Premium describes its fashion focus, would be more apt. Additional arguments in favour of this are the segments Young Designers & Newcomers, Modern Contemporary Retail Power Brands and Trend Fashion Brands. Whether Premium can build on the success of its winter edition, which reported a seven percent increase in visitors, remains to be seen this July. But whatever happens, Premium will continue to exude an air of stability and reliability during these uncertain times.
BRIGhT 4 — 6 JUly 2017 USP: Streetwear meetS SkateBoarding meetS BoardSPortS ARENA BERlIN AM FlUTGRABEN 12435 BERlIN BRIGhT TRAdEShOW.COM
If you visit Seek, you’ll no doubt also visit Bright. Which isn’t just down to the fact that these neighbouring tradeshows are just a stone’s throw away from each other with a marvellous location on the Spree River – where the crowds love to flock in the summer – but also because Bright is so completely different to the other fairs.
BRIGhT VIBES IN TOWN Street & Skate and since this January also the extended areas Accessorize on around 400 m² and Bright urban. The latter was initiated to present the mix of exciting collaborations, creative ideas, international microbrand avant-garde and established hip-hop fashion companies in the Glashaus venue in a fitting way. The tradeshow
SEEK 4 — 6 JUly 2017 USP: catchy SloganS, Selected BrandS, contemPorary trendS ARENA BERlIN EIChENSTRASSE 4 12435 BERlIN SEEKExhIBITIONS.COM
You can’t help but get classic songs stuck in your head when you’re in the shuttle on your way to Arena Berlin. All thanks to Seek’s firmly established advertising placards, which feature plays on the lyrics of catchy songs. But there’s a whole lot more to Seek than just wit and fashion. The tradeshow, which also belongs to the Premium Group, primarily sees itself as an inspiring platform that reaches beyond the borders of the fashion world, which is why the portfolio recently grew beyond the dominating menswear sector. On an area of 6000 m², Seek’s professional visitors, 80 percent of whom are international, can look forward to a wide selection of 250 brands, ranging from high-end streetwear to elevated
organisers wanted to retain the character of Bright but still allow it to naturally develop in order to meet the needs of the average total of 15,000 visitors in the future. Incidentally: Bright also organises countless skateboard contests, as well as art and music events. So it’s worth staying clued-up on everything they have to offer.
hOW SEEK IS yOUR lOVE sportswear down to womenswear, sneakers and accessories, as well as beauty products, home accessories and lifestyle gadgets. What was once ‘men only’ is now a creative pool for all those who, despite the normcore mentality, want to preserve their individuality and reinvent themselves without forgetting their roots. The keyword is quite simply: zeitgeist. After all, Seek is progressive, high profile and curated, which is precisely what makes it a true highlight during Berlin’s Fashion Weeks. The lifestyle of the fashion industry can be felt here more than anywhere else. It’s not businesspeople who meet at Seek, but rather friends, colleagues and old acquaintances who share common interests and visions and come here to exchange news, views and experiences in their natural habitat.
streetwear – with a spectrum of around 600 carefully selected brands made up of established, international market players as well as aspiring, young labels, with a split of around 70 percent menswear and 30 percent unisex collections. They are spread over a total area of 6000 m² and the four key segments: Outdoor Aesthetics,
And in this case, different means cool and laid back. Not that Seek isn’t also cool and laid-back, but Bright lives and breathes a completely different lifestyle to the other tradeshows. even though streetwear makes up a large part of the show, which was founded in 2005 by Marco Aslim and Thomas Martin, its vibe is very much about skating and boardsports. And even the takeover by the Premium Group in the year before last hasn’t changed this. Bright still occupies its position as europe’s leading fair for skateboard, boardsport and
A PANORAMIC VIEW OF FAShION
PANORAMA 4 — 6 JUly 2017
USP: the market Place for faShion & lifeStyle
MESSE BERlIN JAFFéSTRASSE 14055 BERlIN PANORAMA-BERlIN.COM
The motto for the spring/summer 2018 season of Panorama Berlin is ‘united’, which is shouting out a clear message to the national and international profashionals. But ‘united’ could also be interpreted as ‘only together are we strong’. An important theme, which for the tenth edition of the tradeshow, is being supported by numerous events and new segments and forms of presentation. Considering that the Panorama halls cover an impressive area of 45,000 m² at Messe Berlin, you’d be excused for forgetting that it only opened its doors for the first time around four years
ago. And now, for its meanwhile tenth edition, the organisers are concentrating on optimising its existing segments, which includes renaming the lingerie hall Bodylicious, paving the way for presentations of swimwear in hall 7C. Also new: the innovative Panorama Digital project that is giving Panorama, as the world’s first fashion fair that can also be visited from afar thanks to the virtual 360° experience, a unique standing. But amidst all of these planned changes, the tradeshow is also focusing its attentions on the heart of Panorama: “In the spring/summer 2018 season we are celebrating our exhibi-
tors and visitors,” according to a statement by the organisers, which brings us back to the whole ‘united’ theme. Along the lines everyone has to work together if we want to counteract the fraught situation in the fashion retail trade – last year the entire industry ended on a minus. So for its upcoming event, Panorama will be celebrating approximately 800 exhibitors, with a share of 50 percent womenswear, 30 percent menswear and 20 percent shoes and accessories, and an average of 50,000 visitors. “We’re optimistic that the current market situation will reinforce communication be-
“We´re concentrating on optimising the segments, updating the Panorama Digital project and celebrating our exhibitors and visitors.” the autumn/winter 2017/2018 season in January the tradeshow attracted a record-breaking 51,500 visitors over three days (previous year: 50,800). And the
SElVEdGE RUN 4 — 6 JUly 2017 KUlTURBRAUEREI BERlIN SChöNhAUSER AllE 36 10435 BERlIN SElVEdGERUN.COM
Selvedge Run is still the hottest tradeshow newcomer on the scene – this may be attributed to the fact that it presents a meticulously selected portfolio of brands that can’t be found anywhere else at Berlin Fashion Week. This is one of the many reasons why Selvedge Run is growing from a total area of 2000 to 2700 m² for its fifth edition. In January that co-founder Shane Brandenburg launched The Makers Yard, which is home to five different product groups: Home, Mobility, Outdoor, Food and Men’s Grooming. They don’t just want to offer denim and heritage at Selvedge Run, but also an all-round lifestyle portfolio. But you’ll be looking for fast fashion here in vain. The organisers have deliberately chosen to distance themselves from that. Instead, they’re setting great store by longevity and transparency, as
dIRK SChöNBERGER CReATIVe DIReCTOR ADIDAS
ANdREAS MURKUdIS I love to drop by Andreas Murkudis’ store. He knows how to dress you well, and always has some nice furniture on offer. You should also check out The Corner, Voo Store and The Store at Soho House.
GRIll ROyAl The gourmet restaurant has been around for ten years and it is getting better and better. It's always my first stop when I arrive in Berlin.
hERITAGE MATTERS well as craftsmanship and passion: “We’re looking for character. A strong DNA in a brand, its history and a specific point of view should be clear. Whether it’s a certain traditional production method or a cultural cue:
heritage matters to us.” If that makes you think Selvedge Run isn’t about innovations, you’d be sorely mistaken: They celebrate heritage brands while showcasing almost an equal share of contemporary fashion.
KIN dEE This place opened in February and it already made it onto my list of favourite places. Incredibly good Thai food - not what you would expect - but I always want more and more of it.
USP: Br andS with char acter
WAlThER KöNIG I love buying art books at Walther König’s, where I spent a lot of time when I was younger in my hometown Cologne. I used to blow all the money I had there!
tween visitors and exhibitors and thereby boost the whole community spirit,” said Jörg Wichmann, CeO of Panorama Berlin, at the beginning of the year. But a community can only be successful if the parties involved also understand their dependency on each other. So it’s a smart move to put the spotlight on something as obvious and self-evident as the exhibitors and visitors themselves. But whatever happens, a very goal-oriented Panorama is now moving forward with a whole host of well thought-out changes. For
organiser is expecting similar results this July. With room for growth, obviously. Panorama is, after all, more than positive about its future. And why not? After all, it’s optimism, not pessimism that leads to progress. So it seems like 2017 will be a promising year for Panorama and hopefully also the retail trade. The foundation stones for this were already laid in January, for example with the restructuring of the shoes and accessories areas in halls 5 and 6, the extension of the plus-size segment Hipstar and the abovementioned lingerie area. All very well received concepts that are bringing a breath of fresh air to the event. Because if there’s anything the industry needs to avoid, then it’s stagnation. In order to keep heading in the right direction, Panorama is open to constructive criticism. Like in the case of the Nova Concept hall, the fair’s most progressive area, which, due to the division of its space and position, received some unsatisfactory feedback. But changes are, after all, a testimony to improvements, which in turn sometimes need one or two test runs before they function perfectly in the long term. We’re looking forward to seeing where Panorama takes us this summer and where the journey is headed.
MUNICh — düSSEldORF — OFFENBACh
MUNICh FABRIC START / BlUEZONE 5 — 7 SEPTEMBER 2017 USP: one of the BiggeSt textile tradeShowS ZENITh hAllE & KESSElhAUS lIlIENThAlAllEE 29 80939 MUNICh MUNIChFABRICSTART.COM
Demand determines supply. Munich Fabric Start is meanwhile spread over seven halls and three floors with a total area of 42,500 m² so it’s easy for visitors to lose sight of the bigger picture. But to ensure that doesn’t happen, the tradeshow is deliberately focusing on sharpening its profile and offering clearly structured areas. And these are: Fabrics, Additionals, Showrooms, Asia Salon, Design Studios, Organicselection as well as Bluezone and Keyhouse. The latter was only introduced in September 2016, along with the additional Bluezone area
CONTINUITy ANd GROWTh
Catalyzer in order to meet the increasing demand of the denim area. And the success is continuing unabated. Which means that the area could well be extended again in the future because the Fabrics and Additionals halls have never been booked up as early as they were this year. The same goes for Bluezone, also fully booked and continuing to enjoy an increased demand, meaning that the next show will once again have a strong portfolio of exhibitors. The denim and sportswear mecca of the tradeshow with over 100 established denim brands has always
been progressive and is meanwhile perfectly enhanced by the lifestyle product presentations in the Catalyzer area. A lot of attention is paid to ensuring the visitors receive product-specific trend information and relevant fora. Countless seminars, workshops and round tables therefore play an important role in the comprehensive line-up of accompanying events. And that’s something that is appreciated by the 20,000 professional visitors from the textile and clothing industry, as well as the 800 suppliers who know that their 1700 collections are in good hands.
After all, Munich Fabric Start stands for continuity and growth. For 2017, this means the further development of Keyhouse as a future-proof format, the continuation of Catalyzer as a creative pool with the established Bluezone and the focus on supporting measures in the important areas of digitalisation, process management and the procurement of resources. Speaking of resources: visitors can look forward to a free lunch and free coffee across the entire exhibition grounds to ensure they stay full of energy. Service at its best.
AMédéE TIll DJ, GASTRONOMe, INFLueNCeR
A hip crowd flocks to the bar in the Turkish district around the corner from Munich’s main train station for Cocktails and exotic shots.
I have never stayed at the Hotel in the hip Glockenbach area myself, but I often recommend it to friends. They never complain and always come back.
The newly opened 4th floor is dedicated to design and living – a perfect place to find a nice gift. From the rooftop you have a beautiful view over Munich.
A very cool concept store in the luxurious Luitpoldblock shopping mall featuring labels like A Kind Of Guise, Comme de Garçons and MSGM.
USP: gloBal Shoe fair with a long tradition and a new concePt AREAl BöhlER hANSAAllEE 321 40549 düSSEldORF GAllERy-ShOES.COM
In February, GDS took place for the last time under the management of Messe Düsseldorf. Now it’s down to Igedo Company to help the ailing shoe fair back to glory – starting with a new name. Time for a system reboot. With a new location and a different choice of days, for example. The first edition of Gallery Shoes is taking place from Sunday until Tuesday 27 – 29 August, 2017 at the Düsseldorf venue Areal Böhler, maintaining the 60-year heritage of the internationally renowned trade fair location of Düsseldorf. To take the tradition into the future, the Gallery Shoes concept is closely
MUNICh — düSSEldORF — OFFENBACh
GAllERy 22 — 24 JUly 2017 USP: an international hUB in düSSeldorf dUring the cPd order AREAl BöhlER hANSAAllEE 321 40549 düSSEldORF GAllERy-dUESSEldORF.dE
The fourth edition of Gallery at the Areal Böhler venue is taking place under a lucky star. And it’s not only thanks to the launch of Gallery Shoes that new opportunities are opening up. The feedback last season was positive, particularly for the newly launched three-day scheduling from Saturday to Monday, as well as the extended opening hours, which will be continued in July. “We look forward to ensuring that
FAShION TURNSTylE Düsseldorf remains a vital hub for the international fashion industry, bolstered by our presence on the grounds of Areal Böhler with Gallery,” explains ulrike Kähler, Project Director of Gallery. “The various segments we are offering, combined with a new mix of highquality brands and new collections are what makes Gallery so appealing.” Around 6000 visitors are expected to attend and they will be able to browse the collections of around 750 brands.
I.l.M OFFENBACh 2 — 4 SEPTEMBER 2017 USP: trade fair for leather goodS, travel itemS, BagS & acceSSorieS MESSE OFFENBACh KAISERSTRASSE 108-112 63065 OFFENBACh IlM-OFFENBACh.dE
According to the German leather goods retail institution BLe, the leatherware market grew in 2016. Ideal prospects for the I.L.M Offenbach, which was fully booked in March. And the 2017 Summer Styles presentation will no doubt build on that success. Thanks to its special combination of tradition and zeitgeist, I.L.M Offenbach is considered a firm fixture on the retailers’ calendar and enjoys a high standing among the approximately 6000 visitors and nearly 300 exhibitors. In addition to the well-established order platform for bags and accessories, I.L.M has also become an important global port of call for the luggage sector. The share of international exhibitors has already grown for the 2017 Winter
FUll hOUSE Styles edition and accounted for half the exhibitors. Similar results are expected in September. The organisers clearly know how to keep things exciting and relevant – I.L.M has been going for over 60 years. The exhibition space of approximately 13,500 m² showcases bags, small leather goods, suitcases, travel and leisure bags as well as business and school items, umbrellas, gloves, belts and accessories. “We are seeing that many of our exhibitors are investing in new stands and conveying a modern image. For me that’s a clear sign that it’s worth investing in both the location and I.L.M,” summarised Arnd Hindrich Kappe, Managing Director of Messe Offenbach.
GAllERy ShOES 27 — 29 AUGUST 2017
aligned to that of its fashion sister, Gallery, and will be offering “international tradeshow business in a curated, modern, contemporary atmosphere with presentation options that meet the needs and budgets of its exhibitors.” On a total area of 10,500 m², with an additional 2000 m² lightweight constructed tent, around 500 brands will be divided into the categories ‘Premium’, ‘Contemporary’, ‘urban’, ‘Comfort’ and ‘Kids’ to present their wares. exhibitors can choose between individually designed stands of up to 150 m² or concept stands on areas of up to 35 m². especially in the limited context of the Areal Böhler the trade fair management sees this as an opportunity to create a highly focused platform for up to 10,000 international visitors from North, Central and eastern europe. “I am confident that the industry will react positively to this new concept in the exciting location of the Areal Böhler. With ulrike Kähler, we also have an experienced project manager on board who can handle the great challenge of creating a new concept shoe exhibition. After all, she has already proven with Gallery Fashion how well an order fair can work in the Areal Böhler,” says a confident Philipp Kronen, Managing Partner of Igedo Company.
IT’S TIME TO RESET
AMSTERdAM — COPENhAGEN
INTeRVIeW thorSten oSterBerger
19 — 20 APRIl 2017 USP: STRICTly CURATEd ANd VERy INFORMATIVE dENIM TRAdEShOW WESTERGASFABRIEK KlöNNEPlEIN 1 1014 dd AMSTERdAM KINGPINSShOW.COM
We spoke to Andrew Olah, CeO and majority owner of Olah Inc., and founder of the Kingpins Show about the origins of his convention and the role of trade fairs in the denim industry.
what is the importance of the kingpins Show for the european market? We have no idea. All we know is that our attendance to the show continually grows and the interest in exhibiting exceeds our ability to provide space.
what are the outstanding achievements of which you are retrospectively proud? We are proud of our show because it’s beautiful, because our exhibitors are happy with us and continue exhibiting show after show with us, and our attendees keep coming. We are proud of the relationship with House of Denim with
AMSTERdAM BURNS BlUE whom we share many values and dreams and are continually inspired by what we can all achieve together to bring a brighter blue to the global jeans industry. 3. how do you select your visitors / exhibitors? Our exhibitors are the major players in the global denim world with a few exceptions because some excellent amazing companies don’t exhibit at Kingpins or anywhere for that matter. But we wish to bring the best-inclass to our show. The visitors are either buyers for apparel or retail brands, press or academia. We try as best we can to invite only these groups of visitors to avoid “networking” as being a major element of the show. what makes amsterdam different from other european locations? . The essential component is very simple — the people from Amsterdam love denim and accept it as a endearing element of their life. And it’s because of this fundamental love that the foundation House of Denim was
created and from which grew the Jeans School, Blue Lab and Denim Days. Amsterdam burns blue. how do you see today's standing of your trade fair and what do you expect for the future? We are in a very interesting period where no one really knows what the future holds in apparel distribution. In the uSA, internet sales of apparel is so strong it’s puncturing historical and reliable retail outlets. I think without giving away too many secrets Denim Days – a B2C event – is a very good model of the future. with the global denim awards you promote the linking of talents within the industry. what does your support look like? We have finished three years of Global Denim Awards and are pleased with the results and the process. Putting on such an elaborate event is not easy to do, and we need to consider it as super important to us. So far to this day our support on all levels, from mills, designers and e3 sponsorship has been amazing. We are lucky and count our blessings.
your trade fair also takes place in hong kong and new york. how is the exchange between the continents at the amsterdam site? We also have a City Tour Show annually in China where Kingpins shows up in three cities in five days. This is a new model introducing our exhibitors to brands throughout China. We think each show is different, as each market is different. My ideal explanation is that each show is like a child, all from the same parents but with entirely different personalities. what do you think about the key changes that the fashion industry will face in the coming years? I think the gauntlet has been thrown. The race to meet and deal with the consumer directly is “ON”. concerning your personal style: baggy, skinny or straight? Skinny & straight Stonewashed or raw? Not a big lover of washed jeans.
MOdEFABRIEK 9 — 10 JUly 2017 USP: inSPiring creative Pool for the mid to high-end faShion market in a relaxed atmoSPhere
ROBERT GRAUWEN SALeS MANAGeR, AMSTeRDAM DeNIM DAYS
RAI AMSTERdAM EUROPAPlEIN 24 1078 GZ AMSTERdAM
The denim expert of the Amsterdam Denim Days shares his event tips with us.
It’s not always necessary to make changes on a visible level. Sometimes it’s enough to just feel them. And that’s exactly what Modefabriek manages to do: they are sticking with their ‘Districts’ system, with a total of 600 brands divided up as usual into the areas A, B, C and D. In ‘District A’ you’ll find fast-moving
REVOlVER 9 — 11 AUGUST 2017 USP: ProgreSSive, contemPorary faShion laBelS from Scandinavia in the mix with gloBal BrandS REVOlVER VIllAGE hAlMTORVET 11 dK-1700 COPENhAGEN V REVOlVER.dK
fashion for men and women; the heart of ‘District B’ is still beating blue, presenting global denim and streetwear, while in ‘District C’ contemporary classics for style-savvy men and women are showcased. Last but not least ‘District D’ is showing “more than fashion”. And that’s exactly the crucial element that distinguishes Modefabriek from other tradeshows. Because their slogan ‘more than fashion’ is to be taken literally: the trade fair on the RAI exhibition and Convention Centre is also a place to learn, eat and shop. Meaning, they don’t just succeed in keeping the 18,000 visitors happy over the two days, but also inspire
them, above and beyond the topic of fashion. In their own words, ever since it was launched in 1996, it has been “Modefabriek’s mission to be an innovative and distinctive business-to-business trade event for labels that distinguish themselves by uniqueness, quality and continuity, with an individualist vision of fashion in the mid and high-end segment of the fashion market.” And they succeed in that thanks to a harmonious mash-up of brand presentation, fashion shows, expos, talks, stores, food and drinks, and of course music. Modefabriek could even be described as a “B2B fun park” that’s always worth a visit.
SCANdINAVIAN ATTRIBUTES The latest contemporary Scandinavian fashion is showcased under one roof twice a year at Revolver in Copenhagen. Anyone who’s ever been at Revolver in beautiful Copenhagen knows that there’s nothing comparable in the Scandinavian
countries. Why? Because at Revolver Village, in the Meatpacking District, which is just 100 metres from the central train station and right in the centre of Copenhagen, the most progressive, design-driven brands in Scandinavia are invited and presented along with like-minded brands from around the world. It is beyond compare. But even a keenly curated selection of brands is not always enough, as the Revolver organisers well know. That’s why they rely on a precise division of their 4500 m² Revolver Village that aims, above all, to make the buyers’ lives easier. ‘Business’, ‘discover’ and ‘network’ are some of the keywords at Revolver. Not forgetting ‘efficiency’ and ‘inspiration’ – fundamentally Scandinavian attributes – which are giving the founders Christian Maibom and Jan Carlsen a decent head start on their competitors.
dENIM MARKET The Blueprint Festival Denim Market will be bigger and bolder than ever with special collections by exclusive indie brands like Benzak Denim Developers and Atelier de l’Armee.
dENIM lECTURE Godfather of denim Adriano Goldschmied talks about “Sustainability & Innovation” as part of the Future of Denim project at the Ketelhuis (22 April).
ExClUSIVE SWEATER We’ve created a limited edition sweater with Scotch & Soda. It’s a one-off and so cool that you’ll have to run fast to get your hands on one of these at Blueprint and the A’dam S&S stores.
Keeping both feet firmly on the ground is very important for Amsterdam’s Modefabriek – despite the fact that it’s one of the most innovative and creative shows currently on the market. But to stay true to its intention of keeping things fresh, the right timing for changes is an absolute must.
IN-STORE EVENT Levi’s and Tenue de Nîmes (elandsgracht) host a small get-together with drinks, DJ and food, where they give away special edition vinyl and vintage dyed bandanas (20 April).
Asger Mortensen for GABBA
AMSTERdAM — COPENhAGEN
PARIS — lONdON — FlORENCE
dENIM PREMIèRE VISION 26 — 27 APRIl 2017 USP: one of the toP eUroPean denim tradeShowS PARIS EVENT CENTER (PEC) 20 AVENUE dE lA PORTE dE lA VIllETTE 75019 PARIS
dENIM OF TOMORROW
Denim Première Vision has and is everything you could possibly need for your denim collection – from the concept to the creation. That’s why the Paris fair is an absolute must for any professional denim enthusiast. At the end of April up to 3000 visitors usually flock to the Paris event Center to get the lowdown on the latest trends and technologies. But before ‘Denim PV’ celebrates its tenth anniversary in November, this ‘R-evolution’
edition is concentrating on new creative processes, the latest innovations and providing inspiration on how the future of denim can be redefined and shaped. Because if there is one thing we all know, it’s that the industry needs to change. So this ‘Denim R-evolution’ edition is taking the ‘denim revolution’ into the next round. With collaborative solutions to the long-term problems in the denim industry, digital innovations, exclusive trends, inspiring designs, selected col-
lections and interactive master classes, as well as the first Denim Hackathon. The Hackathon is inviting fashion colleges, technology experts and creative professionals to brainstorm new forward-looking visions and specific solutions to persistent problems that are acting as a barrier to the jeans of the future. To this end, five teams of five people, composed of three students and two industry experts, will be putting their heads together for the twoday Hackathon. The results will
be presented in a special show. What’s also new is the ‘Denim Trends Area’ where the real world meets the virtual world and provides visitors with an inspiring insight into the autumn/winter-2018/19 trends. Thanks to QR codes on the fabric samples, with the help of the Denim Première Vision smartphone app you can download descriptions and images of the products and locate the exhibitors, helping you to structure your visit as individually and efficiently as possible.
MElINA GARNIER PR-MANAGeR/ SILK ReLATIONS, PARIS
A great expo, if you like airport flair. 19 artists show theirs visions of airport life – photos, poetry and also installations. You’ll feel like boarding a plane in the middle of Paris (runs till 21 May at La Gaîté lyrique).
CENTRE COMMERCIAl I love the cool location close to the Canal Saint Martin. Here I can find Veja – the best sneakers around. Also great are the coats by Suzie Winkle and Jumpsuits by Margaux Lonnberg.
lE BARON ROUGE You have to visit this bar in the early evening, because you will not be the only guest who wants to see the eiffel Tower by night while sipping a fine wine. My favourites: Côte du Rhône and Bourgueil.
lES CAVES SAINTS GIllES One of my favorite places since I moved to Paris. In the heart of Le Marais, the wine and the tapas are as excellent as is the service. And you absolutely have to try the jamon.
PARIS — lONdON — FlORENCE
JACKET REqUIREd 26 — 27 JUly 2017 USP: a Strong menSwear Brand Selection in a SimPle Set-UP ThE Old TRUMAN BREWERy hANBURy STREET lONdON, E1 6ql JACKET-REqUIREd.COM
Nowhere else – except at Pitti – is menswear celebrated quite as passionately as at Jacket Required – but in an altogether different way. The London menswear show at The Old Truman Brewery is proving itself once again with the latest edition.
ThIS IS A MAN’S WORld! Required needs to be a closed book for everyone else. For spring/summer 2018 the team is planning to invite new relevant stores, national as well as international, to keep the brand mix of approximately 250 collections up to date and provide some exciting inspiration for the visitors. After all, the idea of the plat-
form, created in 2011, is based on a strong line up of premium menswear, ranging from casual sportswear to tailored clothes and streetwear. And after the positive response to this year's Massimo Osti Archive exhibition, the organisers have similar projects in the pipeline.
PITTI UOMO 13 — 16 JUNE 2017 USP: the world’S leading trade Show for menSwear FORTEZZA dA BASSO VIAlE FIlIPPO STROZZI 1 FlORENCE PIT TIMMAGINE.COM
The most stylish street style looks most likely come from Florence. usually when the fashion elite gathers in the small Italian town to browse the latest menswear trends. And there’s no better place to do that than at the world's most important menswear fair: Pitti uomo. The motto of the 92nd edition: ‘Boom, Pitti Blooms’. What does that mean? Well, the June edition marks a further step into the future of Pitti uomo’s development, which it is mastering with flying colours as per usual: capturing the vibe of fashion and translating it into market-relevant, original projects. And the highlights they have in store are only increasing the anticipation of the 30,000 visitors expected to flock to the event from all over the globe. The event will be kicked off on 13 June by the exhibition ‘Il Museo ef-
BOOM, PITTI BlOOMS fimero della Moda’ in the Palazzo Pitti, curated by Olivier Saillard and sponsored by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana, as well as the Gallerie degli uffizi. On the following day the programme continues to live up to expectations with special guest J.W. Anderson presenting his spring/summer 2018 menswear collection. You’ll also have the opportunity of seeing the OffWhite c/o Virgil Abloh spring/ summer 2018 menswear collection presented by the guest designer on 15 June, as well as part of the womenswear precollection. Not to be missed! Nor are the 1200 brands exhibiting at Pitti on an area of 60,000 m². But if, despite this attractive line-up, you won’t be able to make it to Florence, with a simple login code you still have the opportunity to visit an online version of the show for a few days.
see only the buyers and press that are appropriate to their business,” Jacket Required’s founders Craig Ford and Mark Batista candidly admit. ‘Appropriate’ are for example Dover Street Market, The Goodhood Store, Mr Porter and Berlin’s KaDeWe department store. But that doesn’t mean that Jacket
The finely curated men’s world covers two floors in six rooms, which accommodate around 250 collections. Jacket Required relies on a simple format. The advantage of this simplicity? enough space for the most important element of the trade fair: the menswear. The ‘by invitation only’ show doesn’t rely on thousands of visitors; instead, it sets great store by quality over quantity. “We feel our exhibitors benefit hugely from a stricter door policy and
Greta shirt and trousers GmbH, jacket Helly Hansen Enrico shirt and trousers GmbH
day trip PhotograPhy Patrick ViEbranz Styling LorEna Maza hair & MakeuP EVa DiEckHoff
MoDelS GrEta @ MuGÃ£ Enrico @ tHE SquirE
art Direction HannaH WiLD
Greta jacket ami, Enrico jacket Satisfy, trousers GmbH
tracksuit adidas, gilet Vladimir karaleev
Longsleeved top and jacket nike, trousers Vladimir karaleev, sneakers new balance
pullover Gina Laumann
fashion 68 94
pullover acne, shorts Dickies, sneakers nike, socks modelâ€™s own
Longsleeved top asos, jacket Vladimir karaleev
PhotoaSSiStant LarS H. PoSt ProDuction bLink-iMaGinG.DE
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The specialist for goodyear welted and norwegian sewn footwear.
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our brand portfolio. We detected a gap in the market and are trying to fill it as best as possible — with high aspirations in terms of design and marketing. But neither of us would ever have dreamed we would get this far in such a short time — so in that respect, we’ve already developed and fulfilled our dream.
Which tradeshows are relevant for you and why? Duki: With Project Delray, we’re getting to know a tradeshow scene and culture that is new to us, which is very exciting. We received great feedback on our brand at GDS in Dusseldorf, for example. At Micam in Milan we also made some important contacts. For the upcoming season, we want to test Panorama in Berlin and Magic in Las Vegas.
Where’s the best place to sell innovative fashion nowadays? Online or in a store? Fu: We are pretty old-school and still like to go home with a bag. I hope that cool stores and specialist retailers will continue to exist and thrive for a long while yet. Duki: But of course online stores make our life so much easier when it comes to design research.
Chris “Fu” BoszCzyk Dusan “Duki”CvetkoviC
Once you’ve decided on the design aspects, what is the ultimate wearability test? Fu: When it comes to our new sneakers, that’s pretty easy. The heaviest person in the office has to wear the new model barefoot for three weeks – if it hasn’t exploded by then, it’s ready to hit the shelves!
to party together, we really let loose so the only truly inspiring conversation is the one with the taxi driver on the way home. So in that case I would have to say on the street!
Why are you founding a new label instead of simply extending your existing portfolio? Fu: New markets, new opportunities, new partners. Project Delray is our first footwear label so of course it’s all extremely exciting. Most of all we’re stoked to be getting to know a completely new sector — classic shoe retail. I have to say that the streetwear scene can be somewhat incestuous after a while — that’s why we like to look beyond our own backyard.
Where do you find inspiration? On the street or in the clubs? Duki: To be honest, we hardly ever go to clubs these days — and when we do have the chance
So do you work with new high-tech materials or prefer to rely on tried and tested ones? Fu: It’s very important to us that we use innovative material mixes for our shoes. But that’s more for aesthetic reasons. High-tech materials don’t really fit in with the Project Delray brand philosophy. The fact that they’re lightweight and comfortable are important, which can be implemented perfectly without those kinds of materials. And of course we are also limited to a certain extent when it comes to sourcing, due to our extremely fair retail prices.
Duki & Fu are well-known for their brands Beastin and Cayler & Sons as well as for the streetstyle shop BSTN. Now the designers from Munich have launched a new label called Project Delray.
What’s more important to you: design or function? Duki: It depends on the product. With Project Delray, we first made sure that the last is perfect and the shoe is really comfortable to wear — only then did we concentrate on fine-tuning the design.
Does demand dictate your design or are you just fulfilling your dreams? Fu: In terms of Beastin, it’s 100% a passion project. We’ve rejected several very lucrative offers in the past and would always make the same decision again. Project Delray is a strategic extension of
Influencers, events, print or online ads? What are the marketing approaches that work best for you? Duki: We have an in-house social media team. That’s extremely important for us as it has become an art in itself. We no longer do classic print campaigns, but still set great store by high-quality photo shoots and lookbooks, which we like to print and distribute to our customers. Fu: Influencer marketing is a whole topic of its own. The people who like to call themselves ‘influencers’ and opinion-makers and the kind of content that’s created is really borderline in some cases. But that's the ‘new world’ and you have to learn to deal with it, whether you like it or not. Especially for commerciallyoriented brands like Project Delray, it’s important to cooperate with the right big names in social media.
Are you going for a sporty design because that’s what’s on-trend right now, or because the whole sporting aspect is really important to you? Fu: I think our sneakers manage to bridge the gap between ‘sporty’ and ‘casual’ very well. It’s important to speak to the broadest buyer audience possible. My mum loves the kicks and so does my 13-year-old neighbour — which is exactly what we want.
L’ORIGINAL LÉGÈRETÉ #LAISSERFAIRE Made in France
Espadrij l’originale®, Fichtenstraße 70, 40233 Düsseldorf, Germany firstname.lastname@example.org, +49(0)211-30212626, www.espadrij.com