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www.jewishnews.co.uk

19 JULY 2018

Dining & Family Days Supplement

Edited by Brigit Grant


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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining / Sharing is caring

The art of SHARING

Why pick one dish when you can try everything? Our diners gave it a go…… The Golds shared at MELISSA How often do you wish you’d ordered someone else’s meal? That sizzling, tasty dish on the opposite side of the table that looks so much better than your own? To avoid having to a) ask for a bite or b) a straight swap, why not choose a place where sharing is always on the menu – and I don’t mean your parents’ house.

I’m talking about a place such as Melissa, in Edgware, where owner Cetin Kgygusuz is at his happiest when a table of 20 is tucking into his food. The more the merrier is a mantra in many Turkish homes and it extends to the restaurants that have no issue catering for large sharing groups. Cetin is typical of his countrymen, serving generous sharing portions of familiar but delicious appetisers such as cacik, tarama and hummus with billowing pitta. At Melissa, having a vegetarian in your party isn’t a problem either because the meze can be enjoyed by everyone and there are

enough meat-free mains like Patlican Salata (grilled aubergines and peppers with yogurt and butter); falafel and vegetarian kebabs to share. Meat-sharing is a must, notably Cetin’s lamb, which has the most memorable marinade, the ingredients of which is the only thing Cetin isn’t willing to share in the restaurant that is named after his daughter, Melissa. On Facebook, Cetin endlessly shares photos of family and friends enjoying his food and he is just as hospitable when it comes to diners, many of whom have favourite dishes he has committed to memory. When he isn’t at Melissa, Cetin is catering for parties at which he sets up huge charcoal grills and serves up kebabs no one wants to share. His Jewish clients wouldn’t think of hosting a party without him and many have known him since he arrived from Istanbul and worked in Sami’s in Golders Green. “I like to see everyone eating together,” says Cetin, who will randomly sit down at a table and share his own meal. What a host! melissarestaurant.co.uk t: 020 8951 5252

The Sanfords

shared at

PANORAMA

There are many ways to say ‘share’ in Greek, but they are all acceptable at the Panorama, a relatively new family owned restaurant, located in Whetstone at the site of what was previously a tired and rundown Indian restaurant. The new owners have completely refurbished the premises and turned Panorama into a clean and modern dining establishment offering table service and takeaway, and our welcome on arrival from the owner Maria was genuinely warm and inviting. Once seated, the sharing began immediately with pitta bread and olives. We then ordered the house fish mezze, which enabled us to sample almost everything from the extensive menu. A vast selection of cold starters swiftly arrived, (the freshly home-made taramasalata and tzatziki were mouthwatering) and then an array of hot

dishes before the fish course with salads and the house speciality – Cyprus chips. On and on went the serving to a point where we had to be selective because we were so full. The sheer quantity would be a challenge for even the heartiest eater, but while Panorama has stayed faithful to the archetypal Greek restaurant, serving best known favourites with the freshest ingredients, the quality of the food is exceptional. It’s rare to say you’ve had an unrivalled eating experience in a local Greek restaurant, but that was the case. The warm welcome, great service and food that we could have shared with our entire family, such was the quantity may well have turned Panorama into our favourite restaurant. panoramarestaurant.co.uk t: 020 8446 6444


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Sharing is caring/ Summer Dining

The Jacobs

shared at

IZAGARA

Izagara. The word may sound like a mystical place in Tales of the Arabian Nights, but it actually means grilled, grate or broiler in Turkish. The true definition is no reflection of the stylishly refurbished Turkish restaurant in Edgware, where the whole family gets to share. We’re talking children, friends, everyone huddled at a big round table tucking into a mountain of perfectly-presented food. The waiters know a challenge when they see one and, rather than mess about with individual orders, suggested the sharing platter. Good idea and one that took shape fast enough to stop the kids from whingeing and, although they don’t like sharing their toys, they will dip together and, armed with pitta bread, got stuck into the hot and cold starters.

Along came another tray filled with halloumi cheese for the vegetarians, and falafel and spicy sausage for the meat eaters. Be warned though as an enormous plate of meat will follow, and it includes lamb chops, chicken wings, lamb and chicken shish, chicken breast and kofte. A mountainous serving of fresh salad kept the healthy eaters happy, but then so did the amazing fries. The sharing aspect was a novelty for the four children (aged three to six), and they loved the lamb chops in a way they fail to appreciate chicken nuggets at home – it was a pleasure to watch! In Turkey, children eat late with their parents, which is not something we’d do, but they were made to feel so welcome at Izagara, we may even send them on their own one day. Until then, we’re happy to share. izgararestaurant.co.uk t: 020 8951 4460

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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining / Sharing is caring

Even kosher restaurants are jumping on the ‘it’s good to share’ wagon, says Louisa Walters

ZEST

DELICATESSEN DELICATESSEN in Hampstead is sandwiched between two other restaurants and is easily the finest of the three. An ode to the casual eateries of Tel Aviv, it offers Middle Eastern food that is bold, colourful, inventive and interesting, with daring flavour and texture combinations that never fail to excite. I love the rough plaster walls, the rustic tables, the pretty Moroccan glasses and the eclectic mix of metal, copper and china plates and bowls. It’s a sharing concept, and as much as I didn’t want to give any of mine away, I couldn’t resist trying those of my dining partners. Portions are large, so it would seem very greedy to refuse to share! Lambshuka leaps out of the menu for obvious reasons – and is so good it almost leaps off the plate too. Meltingly tender pulled lamb and herbs on a bed of tahini is a great way to start a meal. We also shared the tanned aubergine with tahini, fig and mixed nuts, a golden cauliflower with smoked chilli (and more tahini!) and a lovely light sea bream carpaccio with tomato seeds, green chilli and black truffles – what a great dish. A Yemenite kubaneh (that’s bread to you and me) was just the thing for

mopping all that tahini and all those flavours. The signature dish is a seared duck breast with celeriac purée and carrots – it’s stunning. It’s the sort of dish you would expect in a seriously top restaurant in the West End. My vegan friend went for a wheat broth with burnt vegetables and harissa, which was essentially a huge platter of glorious crunchy market vegetables all roasted to perfection. We also loved the spring chicken with sumac, za’atar and rose petals. We didn’t have the bone marrow and rib eye burger with mustard mayo pulled chips, but the guy at the next table did and he was salivating! Moroccan cigars filled with nuts and spices were just the sweet finish we needed with mint tea.

ZEST at JW3 has had a sexy refurb and is now offering a meaty menu, meaning it is totally a destination restaurant, rather than just a place you pop into when you’re at JW3. Low hanging lights and an enormous fig tree make it warmer and more intimate than before, while retaining the airy, spacious feel. Smart casual, sophisticated yet informal – a perfect combination. A note on the menu advises that plates come out when they are ready and are designed to share, so you need to dispense with the ‘starter/ main’ concept – get ordering and enjoy! This menu also featured the little loaf known as kubaneh, and it came with lamb fat to dip it in. You know how you dip your challah in your chicken soup on a Friday night…. it’s kind of like that but better! We enjoyed lovely fresh purple asparagus with a cured egg yolk and orange – a really pretty summery plate. Chicken with date molasses and almond was our favourite dish, and we also loved the lamb koftas with

peanut salsa. Ras el hanout-marinated salt beef is a great take on a traditional item and comes with a superb potato salad. Serious carnivores have to try the deep-fried steak with cinnamon and tomato salsa, although purists might prefer a simple rib eye steak for two. Watermelon and peach sorbet with summer fruits is the perfect light dessert after a meaty meal, but we couldn’t resist the challah bread pudding too. Zest has a compact but carefullychosen wine list. We shared a bottle of Israeli Tishbi (Cabernet Sauvignon) to complement our meaty meal (also available as a Sauvignon Blanc by the glass). zestatjw3.co.uk t: 020 7433 8955 Zest has also opened a meaty restaurant at Bevis Marks, open Monday – Thursday, lunchtime only.

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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining/ Med Perfect

Home and away food

When you head off to the Med, it’s good to know you can recapture the cuisine when you return Debbie Colton took her family to RIZO’S

Bearing in mind the level of competition for Mediterranean cuisine in Whetstone, Rizo’s holds its own. Arriving for an early Sunday evening family meal, the doors were open onto the pavement seating area, allowing patrons to enjoy the rare but stunning weather currently being enjoyed in London.

The light and airy décor is reminiscent of the couple of years we lived in Athens, where these family-run ‘taverna’ style restaurants are the norm. The simple but effective wood décor creates a lovely ‘Med’ feeling, which is matched by the friendly and warm welcome from the staff. The menu flits from Greece to France past Spain and onto Italy with the majority leaning towards the latter. Up until 5pm, you can choose from the daytime menu, which includes all day breakfast options alongside some tempting looking crêpe dishes. The evening menu offers a good range of pastas, fish, meat and salads as well as slightly pricier steak dishes. There is an interesting drinks menu, which includes a plethora of home-made lemonade flavours, which were greeted with a thumbs-up all round. We started with mozzarella batons, chicken wings and zucchini fritters, all a hit, especially with the children, but who doesn’t like some fried cheese? They have a small but decent kids’ menu. My picky eight-year-old hoovered up the chicken burger, which was

grilled chicken breast in a brioche bun, with a good size portion of chips and salad. Pasta dishes were tasty but enormous and not even my rather ravenous brood could finish their portion (they did offer to wrap it to go, which was a nice touch). My salt cod was tasty if a little oily and my husband’s lemon and herb chicken salad was fresh and plentiful. Despite saying we were stuffed, the enticing dessert menu of home-made Italian delicacies looked too good to resist. The boys tucked into chocolate ice cream, while the rest of us shared a tiramisu. This really is the speciality of the house, being a secret recipe of the owner Pierre, who according to our charming waitress comes in to make it himself as he won’t even tell the chef how to make it. It is exceptionally good and the portion easily fed three! Overall, Rizo’s offers a true flavour of the Med, fresh ingredients, beautifully presented and served with a smile and a sense that they know and care about their food and their customers. www.rizos.london t: 020 8445 4024

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Med perfect/ Summer Dining Beatrice Sayers dined at

AL FRESCO

The welcome at Al Fresco in Whetstone was as warm as the late June evening we visited, and the chance to sit outdoors was too good to miss. We walked past the restaurant’s busy pizza chef, through the vibrant indoor area, – its walls hung with Italian-themed prints and framed mirrors – and admired the large garden at the rear, but eventually chose to sit in the conservatory at the front. Choice was the theme of the menu, too: to start, soups in the form of cream of pumpkin or Italian vegetable, or a large range of antipasti. We ordered focaccia with rosemary and olive oil thinking we might have to wait (the restaurant was busy) but in no time my partner’s Portobello mushroom baked with goat’s cheese, chilli and garlic served with rocket and my Minestrone Casalingo arrived. Both were delicious. For the main course, I somehow found room for a huge grilled fillet of salmon, liberally overlaid with balsamic vinegar, while my companion enjoyed steak “con pepe”, in a creamy sauce studded with green peppercorns. Carne and pesce come with either a selection of vegetables or a mixed salad, and the portions are as generous as they are Italian. The pasta menu is huge, too. After two piatti, you might try skipping dessert, but you would miss another mouthwatering choice: three types of torta (apple, chocolate and lemon cream) are on offer, as well as fresh fruit (Fragole festa or Macedonia) and ice cream (affogato, gelato artiginale or Coppa Pistachio e Crema), crème

brulee, cheesecake, tiramisu and panna cotta. All in ample portions, and all well priced at £4-£5. Discreetly attentive service and – no surprise – rich-tasting coffee mean that lovers of Italian food won’t say no to Al Fresco. www.alfresco.restaurant t: 020 8445 8880

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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining/ Overnight stays

Room at the inn

If you love eating out – especially out of London – why not extend the experience with an overnight stay? The Restaurant Club founder Louisa Walters recommends these... THE VILLAGE PUB (Cotswolds)

tastes like nothing I have ever tried. Delectably tangy on the tongue. After the kind of deep sleep you only get when away from home in a hotel bed, breakfast offered a simple buffet with fruit, yoghurt, bread and croissants, and a few dishes to order such as smoked salmon and scrambled eggs or avo on toast. We visited the nearby village of Bibury, home to the famous Arlington Row cottages – a picture of which is printed in your passport – to work up an appetite for lunch at Barnsley House (below). A table outside overlooking the beautiful gardens designed by the legendary

Not just any village pub… this is The Village Pub. Not just any village, either, but Barnsley, home to the gorgeous Barnsley House hotel and spa, which is just across the road. But I digress. With the late afternoon sun beating down on the glorious golden Cotswold stone of the building, our tyres crunched on the gravel as we pulled up at this charming inn. To all intents, it’s very much a village pub – a watering hole at the heart of the tiny village – but it’s also a posh pub with six rooms. Ours was cool, calm and very peaceful, cream with touches of smoky blue, contemporary décor with traditional charm in the form of sloping ceilings and cute retro accessories. Huge comfy bed, snuggly lambswool throw, a bath as well as a shower, and lots of yummy snacks in the mini bar. It was warm enough to eat outside in the pretty courtyard and, as the temperature dropped, flame patio heaters were lit. Eating by firelight under an inky black sky in the heart of the Cotswolds… what could be better? The menu changes monthly and reflects the seasons. As it was summer, there was asparagus with hollandaise, Caribbean-style chicken, Cotswold lamb, and wonderful vegetables grown across the road at Barnsley House. A twice-baked Cheddar cheese soufflé was as dreamy and creamy as it sounds, a pan-fried cod on a bed of sundried tomatoes as tangy and punchy, and the only thing heartier than the tender steak were the fantastic chunky chips that came with it. Who could say no to Bailey’s cheesecake with berry compote? (We shared.) Best of all was the discovery of a local wine – Poulton Hill Estate is a mere four miles away. The Phoenix is a Sauvignon-like blend and

THE MASH INN (Buckinghamshire)

No stranger to running a pub, having owned a few in London, three years ago, Nick Mash bought one that’s nearly 300 years old, lovingly restored it and put the open kitchen with its wood-fired grill centre stage. The eponymous Mash Inn is a bijou place with a cosy bar, just 32 covers in the dining room, six pretty bedrooms

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Rosemary Verey, a light chicken breast on a bed of chunky tomatoes and pesto, a glass of Whispering Angel and a miniature rhubarb drizzle cake with rhubarb sorbet to finish off. Summer dining at its best. thevillagepub.co.uk barnsleyhouse.com

and a kitchen garden. However, the views of the majestic Chilterns hills are anything but bijou – this is the English countryside at its glorious best, and the kind of place you certainly don’t want to leave straight after dinner (if at all). Rustic floors and beautiful bespoke white oak tables and chairs, including a 14-seater communal table, lend themselves to this most informal of dining rooms, where guests are positively encouraged to wander over to the kitchen and chat to chef Jon Parry (formerly of the Bull & Last). Everything is open and on display, and Jon is chopping, turning, grilling and plating up while he chats happily about what he’s doing. Quirky artworks (including a few pieces by Nick’s son)


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Overnight stays / Summer Dining

add a touch of colour. We had the six-course daily menu and it was superb – from the grilled English garden peas with rapeseed oil and hay mayonnaise that make edamame seem dry, dull and passé, right through to the chocolate cremosa with lovage granita that appeared by surprise as a ‘pre’ pudding. You hear the term ‘open flames’ and you immediately think of meat, but this method of cooking is fantastic for vegetable and fish dishes, and even bread… the charred flatbread with shaved pecorino, burnt leek with ‘bog’ butter, turbot with kohlrabi and broad beans set our taste buds tingling every bit as much as the two lamb dishes – one with courgette and smoked tomato, the other with Marie Rose sauce. The most innovative dish of all was a tomato consommé – a clear pink soup that tastes exactly like a gazpacho, a feat of excel-

lence that is executed by draining tomatoes for hours. We enjoyed a delicious English sparkling wine before venturing into more familiar territory with a Rioja and an Albariño. The bedrooms are simply furnished with black and white décor, huge Hypnos beds and the deepest hip bath I’ve ever seen or sat in! Breakfast, served in the room (an indulgent treat!) comes on a pretty tray with homemade granola, buttermilk yoghurt, puffy buttery croissants, a little pot of marmalade, frothy coffee and ginger beer, which made us feel very ‘Famous Five’! It was hard to leave such a beautiful spot, a home from home, but Benjamin Disraeli’s former country residence Hughenden Manor, filled with artefacts and fascinating history, is a 15-minute drive away and is well worth a visit. themashinn.com

THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS AT PILSELEY (Derbyshire)

truffles to nibble on from the must-visit Chatsworth farm shop two minutes’ walk away (it’s like Borough Market, Whole Foods and Harrods/Selfridges Foodhall in one). And so to dinner. There were some ‘fancy restaurant’ dishes on the menu but we steered well clear. Salmon kebabs from the aforementioned farm shop followed by beer battered haddock with chips and mushy peas for me. Smoked salmon paté followed by sirloin steak, chips, onion rings and salad for him. Simple pub grub, tasty and satisfying (huge portions). A decent Malbec by the glass and a delicious creamy unoaked Chardonnay, both at really reasonable prices. No room for

dessert but I can never say no to sticky toffee pudding and this was a really good one. So, too, was the chocolate mousse my husband was persuaded to have (because I wanted to taste it). The kitchen is run by two friendly chefs who came out to see if we enjoyed our meal and were chatty despite having done a 19-hour shift! We should never forget how hard these guys work. They were back on duty for breakfast, which was a simple buffet with cheese, croissants, yoghurt, etc, plus hot dishes from the kitchen – we both had creamy scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. This set us up for a four-hour tour of the simply magnificent Chatsworth House and gardens and kept us going until tea time – unfortunately we couldn’t get in to the tea rooms at Chatsworth for Wedgwood afternoon tea, but it looked gorgeous and if you’re ever going there, it would be worth booking. We headed to the Chatsworth Farm café for Bakewell pudding with custard instead (I know, I know, but we hadn’t had lunch and it does originate from the area, so it was kind of required). devonshirepilsley.co.uk

B E T L A S BAR EF

THE

Salt beef specialist in a casual restaurant/deli with booth seating in Golders Green.

“Quite literally lip-smackingly delightful.” 2 Monkville Parade Temple Fortune NW11 0AL Opening hours: 10:30am–8:30pm

I am a total convert to the concept of the gastro pub, but I also love ‘real’ pubs. With real pub food. Especially in the countryside. So when my husband suggested a weekend visit to Chatsworth House, I immediately googled ‘traditional pubs Baslow/Beeley/ Pilsley’ (the nearest villages) and discovered The Devonshire Arms in Pilsley, which is a traditional pub with rooms. Double whammy. We ambled up there mid-afternoon, enjoying the magnificent views of the Derbyshire Dales in glorious summer sunshine. The pub is in a village on the Chatsworth estate and is owned by the Duke and Duchess

of Devonshire, as are all the surrounding cottages and buildings; they all feature the blue paint that is ubiquitous in the area on everything from front doors to signage. It gives a lovely uniform and distinctive look to an incredibly picturesque area. The pub is not totally traditional (no flocked carpet) but no ‘let’s pretend we’re a fancy restaurant’ either, and no ode to Farrow and Ball in the décor. We had a gorgeous room with four-poster bed (so high it had steps to get up to it!), pretty chintz fabrics, lots of antique furniture from the coffers of Chatsworth House and a beautiful bathroom. There were yummy biscuits and salted caramel

020 8731 7375 [N]


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Summer Dining / Sumptuous sleepover

A night at the prime minister’s place...

Hampton Manor was once the home of Sir Robert Peel

Zuzana Kasparova has a sleepover suggestion for Theresa May

T Summer Holiday for Kids at HarroWall!

Climbing activities for kids and adults at UK’s largest indoor climbing centre. * Krazy Climb fun for Kids * Europe’s Longest Indoor Cave! * Birthday parties and one-off sessions available * Summer Holiday sessions for a climbing child * Europe’s longest indoor caving system * Lots of activities for climbing adults too!

here’s nothing wrong with Birmingham, but the fact that Hampton Manor is only a stone’s throw from the city might surprise you. This property may not be far from the bustle of Brum, but it doesn’t feel like that in the quiet village of Hampton-in-Arden. It was here at Hampton Manor that Sir Robert Peel –who was twice Tory prime minister – lived, and it would have been the perfect place to go after the madness of Parliament. Theresa May take note. This beautiful manor house is now a family-run hotel and home to Peel’s Restaurant, which holds four AA rosettes and a coveted Michelin star thanks to the culinary talents of head chef, Rob Palmer. On arrival at the property, my friend Lejla and I were shown to one of the 15 beautiful Arts and Crafts bedrooms – each one a celebration of original décor with beautiful stylish touches. I loved that the room blended history with contemporary charm and was particularly taken with an old gramophone in one corner and in the other, a coffee bean hand grinder that allowed us to make our own fresh coffee. Our room (named after previous owner Peel) also had a stunning view on the manor’s manicured grounds and the historical clock tower. Before dinner, we were ushered into a spacious purple and cream drawing room with large windows looking onto the garden, and served cucumber water while perusing the menu. Then the canapés arrived – smoked hummus on fresh crackers and mushroom tartar on crisp bread with a selection of fresh

Find out more at www.harrowall.co.uk/kids An Arts and Crafts bedroom with gramaphone

olives – which were delicious and I loved the original idea of serving them on flat stones. The dining room (check out the handpainted wallpaper) has various seating options, including a stylish long wooden table in the centre for bigger parties. Our seven-course vegetarian taster menu started with roast potato valuate with thyme oil, sprinkled with potato puffs and a generous serving of fresh homebaked Polish bread with delicious crust and butter. Delicious! We moved onto the heritage tomatoes, burrata cheese and fermented ketchup, followed by beautifully presented mouth-watering dishes of kohlrabi with tofu and miso sprinkled with kohlrabi sauce, leek and spring onion seasoned with vinegar. Our main dish was rich in flavour: a combination of grilled onion with green peas and green pea mash with a hint of garlic. As I have a sweet tooth I could not wait to see what the chef had prepared for dessert and was delighted to see we had not one, but three including a pre-dessert of passion fruit, vanilla and buttermilk with few drops of honey. My favourite dessert was the soft honey cake, with fennel sorbet and fennel cream – a combination of tastes that was mind-blowing. When we thought we could not possibly eat another morsel, we were brought a final and equally mouth-watering dessert of chocolate and cherry and vanilla and honey ice cream. Turns out there is always room if it’s sublime. The restaurant is the main feature of Hampton Manor, which is also available for weddings and open for afternoon tea, but there are also pamper rooms and a clinic where you can completely unwind and treat yourself to an amazing bespoke aromatherapy massage, facial, reflexology or aesthetic treatments. With its gourmet food, excellent décor and super attentive staff, our current PM should think about following in Sir Robert Peel’s footsteps and head there after a crazy week at Westminster. I sincerely recommend it. Details: 01675 446 080 hamptonmanor.com


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Local eats / Summer Dining

Locally delicious It wouldn’t be her usual choice, but Chana Levy was won over by Cartons CARTONS is a friendly and homely café

in Stanmore founded by local legend, Ben Carton. I was introduced to the Cypriotowned café by his lovely team of staff who share his passion for pleasing customers. My friend and I popped to Cartons this week and although it isn’t the sort of café I would normally frequent because I’m vegan, I still had a delicious meal as they catered to our dietary requirements, which was highly appreciated. Regular and vegetarian diners can also enjoy a menu that offers a variety of meaty, as well as vegetarian options, from salads and sandwiches to heartier pasta and jacket potatoes with a wide choice of fillings. Ben doesn’t mind making dish alterations to keep customers happy – and he does. As one wrote on Trip Advisor: “I was going to Caffè Nero then saw Cartons.

First impressions, a typical English tea room rarely found in London. Ordered a toasted sandwich, choice of three bread types. Staff friendly and welcoming and service swift. Superb sandwich and nice chips, huge bowl for sharing. All reasonably priced. Pot of tea was great, two tea bags per pot. I was full or would have tried one of their delicious cakes.” I did and the reviewer was right. 40 The Broadway, Stanmore HA7 4DU 020 8954 3955 /@cartonsboulangerie


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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining / Creative cooking

POP goes the menu!

It seems like everyone is opening eateries these days, says Louisa Walters of The Restaurant Club – spotlighting two caterers and a shul This summer, new ground has been broken in the food world. Famed caterers Tony Page, and David Swann at Food Story, ran restaurantstyle pop-ups in north London and both were brilliant. Tony Page fed 150 people over two nights in Tony Page June at the iconic Jack Straw’s Castle in Hampstead. The pop-up came about when his creative director, Judith Fine and team of chefs approached him with the idea. “Tony was reluctant at first, but we really wanted to do it,” explains Judith. “He told us that if we wowed him with

the menu, he would think about it.” The idea was to create dishes that the Tony Page team do not normally serve at functions. “We wanted to be creative and showcase food that is innovative and modern,” says Judith. “When people think of Tony Page, they think of it as being quite formal. The pop-up was intended to go beyond people’s comfort zone by pushing them to be experimental with food. For example, instead of the rack of lamb we usually serve, we offered unique dishes such as tongue and cheek, which everyone loved!” The feedback was great and described as “very Heston Blumenthal”, but don’t get excited. “There is definitely a gap in the market for a kosher fine dining restaurant, however we are not going down that route,” says Tony. Food Story’s head chef David Swann is always being asked to open a David Swann

Ristorante Italiano

Traditional rustic Italian cooking using only freshly sourced ingredients in a friendly and lively atmosphere which we Italians are renowned for!

We provide extensive choices of food including pizza, pasta, meat and fresh fish specialities making Al Fresco the destination for all the family and for every occasion.

We are now able to offer dishes suitable for gluten-free and vegan diners.

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a seven-course summer tasting menu. Dishes included yellowtail sashimi with shiso tempura and short rib of beef with bone marrow and ruffled potatoes, plus two desserts and wines to match. “When we do a function, the menu choices are to a large extent driven by the client,” says David. “We guide them with our suggestions, but the ultimate decision lies with the event host. At a pop-up, we have the opportunity to show what we are about – to design, create and execute a menu entirely of our own choosing,” he says. “It’s very exciting.”

EDINBURGH POP-UP THIS SUMMER If you are heading to Edinburgh festival this summer and in search of kosher food, Edinburgh Hebrew Congregation is opening a pop-up kosher diner in its community centre for the second year running. Open for lunch on Tuesdays throughout the festival, with food supplied by Mark’s Deli in Glasgow, expect traditional Jewish deli off erings such as chicken soup, hot dogs, salt beef sandwiches, gefilte fish and a falafel platter. There will be atmospheric klezmer music playing and the opportunity to look around the beautiful shul too. John Danzig, chair of the shul, says: “We tried out the concept last year for the first time and had great feedback. Edinburgh totally comes to life during the festival, and the diner brought people into the shul complex who had never visited before, and some who had never had the chance to eat kosher food before either.” Booking is recommended ehc.enquiry@gmail.com

NEW OPENINGS... TISH OPENS ON 29 JULY at 196 Haverstock Hill, London NW3 2AG. Fronted by head chef John Ellison of Bob Bob Ricard, the 160 cover kosher restaurant will be serving “heritage classics”, opening from 7am to 12.30am, including a Friday night dinner. World-renowned sushi master ENDO KAZUTOSHI is preparing a 15-course menu at The Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. Available in two sittings Thursday – Saturday only until 31 August.

CARACTÈRE OPENS IN OCTOBER at 209 Westbourne Park Road, W11 1EA, with Emily Roux (of the Roux family) and Diego Ferrari combining their French and Italian cookery expertise.

GARDEN NOW OPEN FOR ALFRESCO DINING

Monday - Saturday: 12pm to 11pm Sunday: 12pm to 10pm

restaurant. “It’s become an ongoing joke,” he says. “I do think there is a gap for a restaurant at the kind of level that we have become known for, and I have always liked the idea of cooking kosher food for people who haven’t had the opportunity to attend an event we have catered.” Food Story ran a two-night pop up called ‘Social’ this month at its headquarters in Colindale. Its stylish, modern dining room, where menu tastings are held, was set up in a restaurant format, with guests enjoying canapés and drinks on arrival, followed by

1327 High Road, Whetstone, N20 9HR whetstone@alfresco.restaurant 020 8445 8880

www.alfresco.restaurant

THE BELROSE is a new beer and pizza Belsize Parkstyle pub at 94 Haverstock Hill, London NW3 2BD. Open for brunch, lunch, pizza or charcuterie, it has a south-facing beer garden.

MARIAGE FRÈRES, France’s oldest tea emporium has been operating in Paris since 1854 and now it is opening in a five storey Georgian townhouse in Covent Garden. The luxury tea house will be at 38 King Street, London WC2E.


19 July 2018 Jewish News

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Summer special

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Well-being / Summer Dining

There are new dishes to try and well-being discussions to be had at Jami’s café There is nothing like an Israeli breakfast at any time of year, but the colour and variety of the spread conjures up sunshine. So whether it’s breakfast, brunch or lunch that you fancy, it’s available at Head Room Café in Golders Green. The café, supported by the Maurice Wohl Charitable Foundation, is a social enterprise by Jami, the Jewish community’s mental health service and, just in time for summer, chef Or Golan has come up with a highly-awaited new drinks menu that features wines, beers and cocktails, and an exciting new menu of fresh, seasonal Mediterranean-style dishes. Popular new dishes include an array of summer salads and small plates, but the café is keeping its staple favourite dishes, such as the copper pan shakshuka, ensuring regulars come back time and time again. The fresh salad choices have been further extended; the grilled salmon teriyaki and quinoa salad is quickly becoming a firm favourite, competing alongside the muchrequested haloumi salad. The children’s menu has been revamped, and all tastes are catered for. Spaghetti and

cheese and scrambled eggs on toast are on offer, as are falafel with broccoli, peas and tahini for those with a more adventurous appetite. The monthly well-being menu also has some well-received new additions, such as the new monthly carers group ‘Time for Carers’, which is a drop-in session

for carers where they can take some time for themselves, meet other mental health carers and chat with Naomi, Jami’s carer coordinator. As an added bonus, if your physical and mental appetite are still unsatisfied, you can further indulge in some retail therapy at Head Room’s quirky vintage boutique at the back of the café. You will find Heads Up workers in the café who are easily identifiable in their blue T-shirts. Their role is to facilitate the well-being sessions and to be there for anyone who wants to drop in and have a chat about their own mental health or how to support others. They are there as a first point of contact and to signpost people to appropriate resources. By combining great food and drink with a well-being project, the Head Room Café is a social enterprise that is quite literally bringing a mental health focus to the high street. For more details, visit: jamiuk.org/head-room-cafe


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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining / Very Vegan

Living on the VEG

Chana Levy is 17, vegan and proud. Here she tells us why, and suggests vegan places we can all enjoy Veganism is the fastest growing lifestyle activist movement in the world – and there’s a reason why! Having been vegan for almost six months, I can truly say it has changed my lifestyle, health, conscience and the general impact I’m making in the world. I’ve always loved animals and had been vegetarian for two years, but then I transitioned to veganism. Before doing my research into cutting all animal products from my diet, I was completely naïve about the food industry and how it damages not only animals, but also our own health and enviroment. Raised in a kosher home as a meat-eater, I enjoyed it at the time without question. But as I got older, I started thinking that if food is such a big part of our life, we should know how it gets to our plate. And that’s how it

happened. The common misconception about vegans is that we’re all young, angry and desperate to make everyone adopt our radical dietary demands. There are jokes about us – and we’re willing to be the butt of them, but only after you hear us out. Most people don’t realise that we are indoctrinated to eat all animal products. Walking down the street billboards glorify meat and we don’t realise this invites torture, slaughter houses, mass production of sentient beings, CO2 and methane emissions, as well as severe health problems. There, I’ve said it and, tough as it is to hear, red and processed meat, as well as dairy account for one in four deaths in the US every year! I was once sceptical about veganism and believed the myths about a lack of protein, the cost of organic produce

and the inconvenience, yet these arguments aren’t valid when truly examined. I’m sure that if people took a short time researching veganism it would drastically change their opinion and put them in the company of

celebrity vegans Natalie Portman and Alicia Silverstone, who are fine examples of the biblical plant diet. Even Lord Jonathan Sacks is a vegetarian and hopefully he will eventually join me at one of the many vegan restaurants.

On a biblical diet

GO VEGAN ZEN BUDDHA (FORMERLY LOVING HUT)

Offering a unique setting for your next event, within the beautiful setting of Regent’s Park, ZSL London Zoo has a range of versatile spaces for all occasions.

This purely vegan Asian influenced restaurant in Edgware has a diverse and vast menu to appeal to everyone. Even carnivores will enjoy eating the meat replacements that include everything from tofu, to veggie chicken, mock duck and even fish and prawns! The restaurant has a regular menu, an allyou-can-eat buffet and set menus for groups and offers take away or home delivery. The quality of the food is incredible and Zen Buddha is an up and coming place for all ages – notably younger diners who will no doubt be taken with owner Zhong’s new ice cream and candyfloss machine. t: 020 8905 3033, zen-buddha.co.uk

PIZOYO

Why opt for the norm when you can host your drinks reception with our Humboldt penguins at Penguin Beach or nibble on our delicious canapes on the sophisticated Mappin Terrace, overlooking the wallabies? With two suites licensed for wedding ceremonies, a range of iconic animal houses and event spaces for groups of 20-700 guests, let us create a bespoke package just for you. With outstanding catering provided by CH&CO, we offer a range of seasonal and responsibly resourced menus. Please contact us on VenueHire@zsl.org

Whiteribbons Photography

The new hybrid of two of the best milky kosher restaurants, Pizaza and Soyo has been open for almost two months in Borehamwood. Known for its wide selection of pizza, pasta, salads and breakfasts, there are many options for vegans. Pizoyo offers vegan cheese on their famous pizzas, to which a variety of toppings can be added, and other vegan options include a rice noodle stir fry, the vegan sandwich, as well as the vegan breakfast. Expect a lively and energetic atmosphere as it’s always busy because of the amazing food, glorious pizza oven and kids’ menu. Definitely book during peak times to be safe! t: 020 3637 2288, pizoyo.com

MOOSHIES Being a purely vegan burger bar, Mooshies appeals to those who don’t eat meat but still crave the hearty feel of a full, messy burger. However, this is definitely somewhere to take a meat-eating friend who wants to try a plant-based alternative to what they would usually eat. Mooshies, in Brick Lane, offers a range of burgers including pulled jackfruit – a dish becoming increasingly popular throughout the vegan community, which is usually considered an alternative to pulled pork. Rather than try to imitate meat, it cleverly uses substitutes with patties made of plants such as quinoa and chickpeas. This is a great choice if you enjoy junk-type food, but with far fewer consequences because of the much healthier option that it offers. t: 07931 842458, veganburger.org


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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining / Barbecue recipes

Smoke & Glory Josh Katz will be familiar to many as the former Zest chef trained by Ottolenghi. He opened Berber & Q in Haggerston in 2015, pairing Middle Eastern and North African dishes with barbecue techniques and another two restaurants followed. Here are two recipes from his new cookbook, Berber & Q (Ebury Press, £25)

CAULIFLOWER SHWARMA with pomegranate, pine nuts SERVES 4-6 & rose SHAWARMA-SPICED BUTTER 40g unsalted butter, softened to room temperature Juice of 1 lemon 1 garlic clove, minced 1½ tbsp finely chopped coriander 1 tbsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp ground sumac 1½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground allspice pinch of ground nutmeg pinch of ground cardamom CAULIFLOWER 1 whole cauliflower TAHINA SAUCE (makes about 220g) 100g tahini paste 1 tbsp lemon juice (optional) 1 garlic clove, minced (optional) 100ml iced water GARNISH 4 tbsp tahina sauce 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses 1½ tbsp pine nuts, toasted 1 small green chilli, finely chopped 2 tbsp pomegranate seeds 1 tsp dried rose petals 1 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley extra virgin olive oil (optional)

FOR THE SHAWARMA-SPICED BUTTER Combine all the ingredients in a stand mixer and mix using the paddle attachment. In the absence of a mixer, whisk in a large bowl until thoroughly incorporated. The butter should be aerated, slightly stiff and one colour (as opposed to streaked). Set aside until needed. It can be kept in the fridge for several weeks, but must be brought to room temperature before being used.

FOR THE CAULIFLOWER Trim some of the outer cauliflower leaves, but leave some stragglers left behind– they taste delicious and look great when burnt and crisped. Set a large saucepan of salted water on high heat and cover with a lid so as to bring the water up to the boil. Once the water is boiling, gently lower the cauliflower into the pan, being careful not to let it drop from a height and thereby avoiding the potential of burning yourself with the splash-back of boiling water, which nobody wants, least of all you. Bring the water back to the boil, then turn the heat down to medium so the water has a gentle roll. The intention is to par-cook the cauliflower before finishing it in the oven or on the barbecue. It should be removed from the water when tender to a knife, yet retain some resistance – ‘al dente’, as they say. It’s important not to overcook the cauliflower. Much like pasta or a lovely piece of steak, cauliflower doesn’t like being cooked for too long. We’ve found it to take 7 minutes from when the water comes back to the boil.

Set the cauliflower on a cooling rack over a roasting tray and allow to drip-dry. Brush liberally all over with the spiced butter, and where possible, try and get beneath the floret canopy to reach the inner sections. Retain some of the butter for brushing at a later stage. Season generously with salt and pepper.

TO FINISH THE CAULIFLOWER Preheat the oven to its highest setting (240°C/220°C Fan/Gas mark 9) and blast the cauliflower for five to seven minutes, until blackened all over. (You want it to lightly char, not to form an acrid burnt crust.) Once sufficiently oven-roasted, transfer it to finish on the barbecue for a few minutes (if you have one going) for a final hit of smokiness, basting it periodically with any leftover butter.

TAHINA SAUCE Pour the tahini paste into a bowl and add the lemon juice and garlic (if using). Gradually whisk in the iced water, bit by bit, as you pour. The tahini will thicken at first to a very coarse paste, but will loosen to form a thick sauce with the consistency of honey as you add more of the iced water. Season with salt to taste. Alternatively, you can blitz the tahini in a food processor or whisk together using a stand mixer, adding the water gradually to combine.

TO GARNISH AND SERVE Transfer to a serving plate. Spoon over the tahina sauce and pomegranate molasses, and finish by sprinkling over the pine nuts, green chilli, pomegranate seeds, rose petals and parsley. A drizzle of olive oil adds a nice glossy finish. Serve immediately – the cauliflower tastes so much better when hot.


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Barbecue recipes / Summer Dining

BERBER&Q HUMMUS 250g dried chickpeas ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 onion, cut in half 1 carrot, peeled and cut into two 6 garlic cloves, 4 peeled and left whole, 2 peeled and finely chopped or grated 200g tahini paste 40ml lemon juice 1 tsp ground cumin 2–3 tbsp tahina sauce* 50ml extra virgin olive oil few pinches of sweet paprika and za’atar 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley warm pita bread, to serve 1 egg, hard-boiled and cut into 1cm thick slices (optional) *See previous page

SERVES 4-6

Soak the chickpeas in a large pot of water overnight or for up to six hours. Drain once soaked and return to the pot, covered comfortably with more water. Set the pot over a high heat on the stove and bring to the boil, removing any scum that rises to the surface. Add the bicarbonate of soda – the chickpeas will bubble and froth almost instantly. Skim the surface froth, lower the heat to a gentle simmer, add the onion, carrot and whole garlic cloves, and cook, skimming the surface scum periodically, until the chickpeas have completely softened and are all but falling apart. This can take up to two hours and sometimes longer. Keep an eye on the water level, and top up if needs be. Be patient – the chickpeas need to be completely soft and fall apart easily with the lightest of pressure. Once cooked, turn off the heat, season with ½ tablespoon of salt and set aside for 30 minutes or so. Drain the chickpeas, reserving the cooking liquor for later use. Pick out the carrot and onion halves; transfer all but a few tablespoons of the chickpeas to a food processor (reserving those for garnish), add the tahini, lemon juice, grated garlic and cumin and blitz, ladling the liquid back into the processor gradually until the desired consistency is achieved. Bear in mind that the hummus will thicken considerably once cooled and refrigerated. Taste for seasoning – it may need some more salt or lemon juice. Transfer the hummus to a serving plate and spread around its perimeter using the back of a spoon. Spoon the tahini sauce in the middle, topped with the reserved chickpeas, dressed in olive oil and seasoned. Dot the paprika and za’atar around the plate as you deem fit. Sprinkle parsley on top and finish with a very generous drizzle of the best olive oil you can buy. Serve with warmed pita, or other bread. Some Yemenite hot sauce wouldn’t go amiss. I like to add a sliced hard-boiled egg, but it’s not for everyone.

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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining/ What to do

SUMMER STUFF TO SEE… Brigit Grant has ways for you to fill the days when the kids aren’t at camp – and most have a tenuous Jewish connection AT THE CINEMA Fancy a summer film with a big Jewish CAST? Then it has to be HOTEL TRANSYLVANIA 3: A MONSTER VACATION (out 27 July) Directed by the Russian-born Jewish animator Genndy Tartakovsky, it stars Adam Sandler reprising his vocal role as the daddy vampire, Dracula along with Andy Samberg, Asher Blinkoff, David Spade, Fran Drescher and Mel Brooks. Also heard but not seen are Adam’s little daughters Sadie and Sunny Sandler. NEXT UP…..ANT MAN AND THE WASP (out 3 August) which has Paul Rudd playing both dad and super hero in yet another Marvel adventure. More interesting than the film is the fact that Rudd’s late father ( originally Rudnitsky) was born in Edgware and his mum, a Goldstein, in Surbiton. Could he be north west London’s first Superhero? Michael Douglas also appears as scientist Dr Hank Pym. SGT. STUBBY: AN UNLIKELY HERO (out 10 August) is a very cute animated film based on the real life story of a Boston Terrier who became a World War 1 hero. Our connection to the tale is actress Helena Bonham Carter and Logan Lerman, the Jewish American star of all the Percy Jackson films.

ON STAGE DINOSAUR WORLD LIVE AT REGENTS PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE (August 4-Sept 9) is an interactive new show for all the family that sees an intrepid explorer discovering a pre-historic world of astonishing (and remarkably life-like) dinosaurs. And yes there is a T Rex. ALIENS LOVE UNDERPANTS Of every shape and size But there are no underpants in space So here’s a big surprise! This play at the Spiegeltent in Jubilee Gardens on Southbank (14 August - 30 Sept) is based on the best-selling children’s book is wonderfully brought to life on stage for the very first time. With stunning effects, madcap action, original music (and lots of aliens of course!). And then there’s HEATHERS the musical which starts previews in September at the Theatre Royal Haymarket. Based on the 1988 film of the same name which is about a group of four teenage girls – three of whom share the first name Heather – it starred Winona Ryder (formerly Horowitz) and gained cult status. @Heathersmusical.

AND AT THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL THERE’S…. ARI SHAFFIR turned his last Fringe show into a Netflix special called Double Negative. This year, he returns to tackle his Orthodox Jewish upbringing and questions things rabbis never wanted him to, such as Why do Hassidim dress like Johnny Cash fans? (The Big Cave 2-12 August) On the flipside ASHLEY BLAKER is making a career out of being Orthodox. Fresh from his off-Broadway run in New York where he was the first frum comic to be reviewed by the mainstream, he is now at the Festival making his faith funny. (Underbelly, Bristol Square Aug 1-23 with Shabbat breaks) With a face that shouts ‘Xmas’ but a soul that screams ‘chanukah’, RACHEL CREEGER has always felt like she has a foot in two worlds. She’s lived in Essex and Israel, been a dental nurse, singer and social worker. Now she performs, writes and directs comedy and her show is called No Job For A Nice Jewish Girl (PQA Venues at Riddles Court for the duration)

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IVOR DEMBINA returns in the festival’s longest running show – Old Jewish Jokes – performing ancient Kosher favourites as he analyses the journey of the Jewish comedian. (check out Venue 170 and 101 as he appears in multiple locations)


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Kids’ days out / Summer Dining

AT KIDZANIA your kids get the chance to travel at any time of year If you have decided to stay on the island this summer and leave the foreign travel to those with energy, you should definitely take the children to Kidzania at Westfield Shopping Centre. For starters it is one of the few places where you can have a holiday too, as it is safe to leave the kids as they all wear security bracelets and can’t exit the mini city without you. Your children will also get the chance to try out as many different jobs as they can, including and perhaps most importantly – flying as a pilot for British Airways. They never actually take off, but as a cadet at Kidzania’s Aviation Academy, they will use a state-of-the-art flight simulator – based on an actual A-319 plane. For those who don’t fancy the cockpit there is a chance to try out as cabin crew and learn all about the importance of safety and service and how to communicate important

information to everyone on board. Hand signalling for the emergency exits and demonstrating breathing masks and life jackets is all part of an experience that even includes serving drinks and snacks to the passengers. If airborne travel doesn’t suit there are plenty of other professions to try including firefighters, actors, radio presenters,chocolate makers, doctors, journalists, drummers, bell-ringers, hairdressers and postal workers. Kidzania is also the perfect place to go if you have visitors with children in town as there is only one in the UK and anyone aged 4-14 will enjoy the 60 real-life entertaining activities. And while you are there you can shop, have lunch or just sit still and enjoy the summer. www.kidzania. co.uk or call 0330 131 3333


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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining / Flip Out!

Do you feel like flipping? Summer looms large, ideas for entertainment are needed and Flip Out at Staples Corner is calling! Unlike the hideous soft play years where parents were forced to crawl

through spaces built for toddlers in an attempt to retrieve their child (or in the worse-case scenario a nappy), bouncing has at least brought hygiene and health benefits to indoor play time. What is more, it’s no longer purely the domain of the kids, as I discovered when I headed with my three bouncing balls to Flip Out at Staples Corner. Promised ninja courses, adult zones and only the usual risk of breaking limbs we took on board the safety briefing and headed in. I was immediately impressed with the lockers that didn’t require money of any sort thereby removing the usual hunt through pockets and bags for that elusive trolley coin. Had my offspring been a little on the smaller side you could take advantage of the

mini flipper sessions between 9am and 3pm where an adult can flip for free for £10.95 with an under 5. As we head into the delights of the school holidays they offer extremely competitive priced day summer camp for 6-14 year olds, with no risk of sunburn and daily flip time included alongside lots of arts, drama and don’t tell your kids; but booster classes for school subjects too! If you do happen to be a little more on the adventurous side – ie gymnast, trickster, parkour, stunt performer or trampoline enthusiast – then you can join the Tuesday Takeover at 7-9pm where some of the best UK free runners show off their skills and inspire

you to think big when you flip. All in all, Flip Out has managed to up the bouncing game, it’s well run and pretty clean as well as having lots of games to suit all ages and abilities. Now they are aiming to help you bounce your way happily through the school holidays too, and that is what you want. Book online at FlipOut.co.uk

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We’re going to the zoo/ Summer Dining

Pure animal magic

It’s been a long time since Debbie Colton went to the zoo, but it was the worth the wait

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aving not been to London Zoo for many years I was expecting a wander down memory lane and a chance to entertain my boys, Max, eight and Ed, six. More than four hours later, as we dragged our weary legs back home I marvelled at just how much more than that we got for our money. Not a cheap outing at over £20 a ticket, but the more time you spend reading about the work that ZSL are doing to save species all over the world and chatt to the charming (without exception) keepers and volunteers at the park, it feels like money well spent. Max with his encyclopaedic knowledge of animals (turns out TV isn’t all bad – check out Wild Kratts if you have a kid into animal info!) had spent the journey to the zoo regaling us with a fact file on a range of species he was hoping to encounter. After a delightful wander down Camden Lock in the sunshine we arrived at the zoo at 10am and as there were no big queues and armed with our map we set off to do it all. The boys were mesmerised by the varied contents of the tanks in the impressive aquarium with information alongside that is balanced to be both interesting but brief enough for a reluctant 8-year-old reader to take in. From the sea life we headed to the reptile house and while Ed practiced his parseltongue (one for the Harry Potter fans) Max and I were both intrigued and shocked at how many of the snakes were endangered

due to destruction of their habitat. The very non-English like summer we are experiencing does mean that many of the bigger animals especially the mighty Gorillas and the big cats are in a rather lazy mood and doing very little. I guess if I was sporting an immovable fur coat in 30 degrees I might do the same. We were lucky to catch one of the daily shows where a couple of keepers presented some of the tricks ferrets, meerkats and armadillos get up to in their habitats. The amphitheatre is big enough, but smaller kids will have trouble seeing much if not at the front. Stopping for lunch at the main Terrace Restaurant was another tick. A large airy, glassed building with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating offers an excellent range of food to please all. I had the salad bar while the boys had pizza, at £7.50 for a good sized freshly made on-site margherita we were all happy. However, you can take picnics and there are loads of areas to sit in and enjoy the beauty of the Regents Park area. As we were there at the weekend, on a lovely sunny day with England no longer in the football I had expected it to feel crowded but it didn’t. We visited the penguins, Max’s favourite and then headed to the only bit of the zoo I clearly remember from being a child, the giraffe house. Impressive as ever and despite the lack of elephants, which were relocated some years ago to Whipsnade, it’s incredible to see these giants so close up. Butterflies, monkeys, bugs and birds followed. We could have ‘wild’ away even longer but the Wimbledon Final called and even a fabulous family outing can’t compete with that! So home we went. The boys said it was a “mind-exploding” day out and I would have to agree. We had learned a lot and realise more than ever that if we don’t change how we behave more species will die out. The only blip to our otherwise fantastic day was discovering that to be a keeper for the day (at £280 I’m guessing it’s a pretty hands-on experience!) you have to be 16. As Max’s ninth birthday is coming up, he was not amused by this. Only seven years to wait. Think we might be back to visit before then. From next week the Zoo is running a summer campaign called “Superhero Takeover’. Aimed at kids, it focuses on all the incredible superpowers the animals in the zoo have. For more info and to book tickets go to www.zsl.org MK180096 - Jewish News - 1/4 Ad.indd 1

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Summer Dining/ Who let the dogs in?

DOG GONE DAYS (And nights)

There are pooch perfect places to stay across the UK. Brigit Grant took the Tibetan to Devon via Bath

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race yourself for some troubling news. Your dog doesn’t like it when you go on holiday. Just the appearance of a suitcase in the hallway is enough to send the most complacent of canines into a state of misery and confusion. My husband says I read too much into the hangdog expression of our Tibetan Terrier when we go away – particularly as he gets an over-indulged stay at my mother’s house. But rather than risk upsetting him again, we decided to take Dumbledore with on a recent road-trip to Devon and I’ve never seen him look happier. And with good reason. With careful planning everywhere we stayed was a top dog destination and he was treated as a VIP (very important pup).

No 15 Great Pulteney

Thrown off the scent by wee and water breaks at M3 service stations Dumbledore could not have anticipated the welcome he would get at our first stop : No.15 Great Pulteney in Bath - and neither for that matter could we. The boutique property set inside three honeyed stone Grade I listed Georgian townhouses opened in 2016 and is almost indescribable in its uniqueness. Remarkably it manages to feel bright and airy, while displaying the kind of quirky art collections normally displayed within dark galleries. The art is everywhere and wandering

the maze of halls and staircases reveals antique evening bags under glass; giant perfume bottles on plinths and a chandelier dressed with costume jewellery donated by friends and guests. Even the room keys are kept inside a giant dolls house and one could host a soiree in the decadent ladies bathroom it’s so fabulous. With his limited art knowledge Dumbledore was really only interested in the welcome Woof box on the fur rug in our deluxe double room. Set beside a bowl marked ‘hello gorgeous’ was a carton of Lily’s Kitchen food, biscuits and a ball that we would later throw for him in nearby Henrietta Park. With an expression that I read as “Is this seriously for me?” things only got better for Dumbledore as he was allowed to join us by the table for dinner in Bar 15 where he clocked an attractive white Westie by the window. Renowned for its’ brunch, Café 15 is the proper restaurant in the basement, but the menu featuring everything from smoked

Art-filled bedroom and the inviting coolness of Bar 15 in Bath

salmon sandwiches to fish cakes and paillard of chicken did the trick and is also the place for cocktails. To say the service was good belies the staff ’s attentiveness and geniality and this

extends to the therapists in Spa 15, where I had the best back and neck massage and an organic radiance facial before trying the barrel-shaped sauna. While I was spoilt, Dumbledore hit the cobbled streets of Bath which made us want to move there, as did he after discovering the Pug & Puffin pet shop (7, Northumberland Place) which has a dog photo booth more suited to the size of a Jack Russell than a hefty Tibetan. That didn’t stop him. Leaving No.15 Great Pulteney without the jewelled chandelier or the staff wasn’t easy, but for there not to be another visit is unthinkable. Rooms start at £134 per night and there is a £15 charge for the dog no15greatpulteney.co.uk Tel: 01225- 807015

NEXT STOP DEVON…

For a dog who is largely confined to walking north west London parks, lolloping through the rolling valley beyond Soar Mill Cove must have made him feel like a racehorse. Founded

by the Makepeace family and still run with enormous heart by the adult children, the Soar Mill Cove hotel has a panoramic view of the Devonshire countryside that belongs in movies. Remote and peaceful, but for the baah of a lost sheep, I will go there to write my novel some day and be fed by the head chef Ian Macdonald. Ian made the dinner we devoured sitting on the terrace


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Who let the dogs in?/ Summer Dining

A family room at Soar Mill Cove and Ian Macdonals’s fish dish from straight out of the sea.

FINALLY TO BABBACOMBE

just beyond our family room and with the sea just over the hill, he made an unforgettable Salcombe cracked crab claw linguini with chili, parsley and lemon for me and pan roasted sea bass for the husband. There is a pleasing kids menu and an indoor pool, but this is a place for children to ditch the iPad and bomb it down the beach path with the dog. Ahh, yes the dog. Well, Dumbledore got another goodie box packed with treats, sat with us at meal times and was the first to wake the next morning and look longingly out the window. The Makepeace family took a former army cinema and turned it into a hotel that welcomes back regulars and hooks in first timers with the setting, spa and food. Audrey Hepburn visited many times, mainly to hang out in the kitchen and watch Norma Makepeace bake cakes. You can buy Norma’s book at Soar Mill Cove and the excellent Jens gin which is distilled and bottled on site, but the view is only available to rent. Dumbledore was disappointed. Room prices with optional breakfast and dinner inclusive vary according to the time of year. £10 per night for dogs. soarmillcove.co.uk Tel: 01548 561566

Dumbledore didn’t see the virtual tour online for the Cary Arms and Spa in Babbacome Bay or ‘Inn on the Beach’ as it is also known.. If he had, our Tibetan would have been as excited as me at the prospect of staying in a Peter de Savary property on the south Devon coast. As it turned out he was pretty chuffed to find yet more treats and a luxury dog cushion by the cutesy door of Pebble Suite, our cottage which looked like fairy dell from the outside. On the inside it was a snazzy split-level two bedroom apartment with a lounge and dining room complete with open fireplace, a stocked kitchen and a slipper bath looking out to sea. A soak in that tub should be on everyone’s bucket list along with a night at one of the brand new beach huts which are picture-book perfect. Set on a cliff perch overlooking the bay, the higgledy hotel is named after the Cary family who moved to Torquay in 1662 . Queen Victoria visited twice and painted the scenery from a rowing boat in 1852, but as he’s not much of a historian Dumbledore wasn’t fussed about this or the fact that Agatha Christie was born nearby. Only the free doggie bar snacks in the main dining-room were of interest and the fact that he could sit with us for every meal and be petted by the staff who were jolly marvellous. It’s tempting to eat fish and chips every day when its as good as Ben Kingdon makes it, but a talented chef also wants you to try his wild mushroom and sun blushed tomato risotto or

Goats Cheese mousse, so we did. Yum. There’s lots to do around the area, what with the steam train, horse-riding and Torquay, but moving about seems unnecessary when there is a Thalgo spa, a Jacuzzi swimming pool and extra fluffy scones at the cream tea. All of this is served up in a setting reminiscent of the France Riviera with fringed rocks from Thailand and water safe enough for all to paddle or swim. Open all year the Cary Arms is a sun trap in August and magical in December, but as long as they have bar snacks Dumbledore will visit any time. Not without us, he won’t. Deluxe rooms start from £245, Beach Huts from £375 and Beach Suites from £475 per room per night B&B. Cottages from £425 per night. www.caryarms.co.uk / enquiries@caryarms.co.uk / 01803 327110.


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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining/ Who let the dogs out?

What JEWISH DOGS do We asked our furry pals for recommendations… Ozzy Sanford, a Labrador Collie. “I like to go to the Bull n Bush in Hampstead, but not the Freemasons Arms as I was a naughty boy there. Also like Adam & Eve in Mill Hill. There is no better park than Edgwarebury, where I found a bullet and was famous.”

Marley Pena “I’m actually moving to Portugal where I hope I will find a park as nice as Oakhill in East Barnet. I love football and I know the Portuguese are good at it, so that could be good.”

Bugsy Segal the poodle “ I hang out on the couch with Martin and watch cycling, especially the Tour de France. Love it when Bracha ben Avraham comes with her Israel guide dog Labrador, Dinka as we get to go to the park on Shakespeare Drive.”

Charlie Spender, a Beagle “I like the Bull n Bush and Café Toulouse where I like the sausages. I like to walk on the Heath Extension as I can roll around and see my friends.

Barney Elmaleh “My owner is the founder of Waggingtons in Mill Hill and we always have other dogs to stay. I am 91 in dog years, but still love my walks on Arandene with my pals. I also love snow.” Biscuit, a very friendly cockerpoo “I’m very partial to chicken. So anywhere I can go for chicken and, cuddles.” Salsa Bogen, Labrador age 11 “I love Trent Park and swimming anywhere”

Oscar, Golden Doodle “I love Whippendale wood in Watford where I can clear the park of dandelions. Delicious!!”

George Golberg, Cockerpoo “My favourite places to eat... La Dinette, North&Ten and Bob’s are in Muswell Hill, then its Greenberry in Primrose Hill and Red Lion & Sun in Highgate Also go to Nati’s on Priory Hill and Ginger & White in Hampstead which is not really dog friendly , but they let me clean up the crumbs in the entrance. As for walking, you’ll catch me in Highgate Woods or Waterlow Park.” Eileen, a French Bull Dog “I love watermelon and blue berries and going round Hampstead Heath. My family will be surprised to see me in the paper.”

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Summer Dining/ Wine tour

A FINE WINE TIME After a family summer, there is grown-up fun to be had on a tour of Piedmont, says Maria Trkulja

I

would never have believed anyone who said red wine was capable of seduction, but that was before I tasted Barolo. Described by the Italians as the “wine of kings” it tastes even better when sipped in the village of Barolo, looking out over a landscape that is – according to the locals full of endlessly fermenting passion. The Marchesi Di Barolo estate produces 1.5 million bottles a year, so it’s an essential stop on a wine-tasting tour of Piedmont. I love drinking wine, but knowing how to use a bottle opener is where my knowledge stops, so I spent much of the tour following the lead of someone, anyone, who swirled the wine around the glass and then sniffed it before taking a gulp. The first bottle opened at the estate was a Barolo 2013 (£28). I was told I should be tasting roses, violets, a little red fruit, and spicy flowers, and I’m amazed when I do. I can also taste the plum, spices, and smoky flavours in the Barolo di Barolo (£38), but wasn’t sure about the tobacco or leather in the Barolo Reserva 2010 (£44) as I tasted the coffee and jam. When travelling around Piedmont, Northern Italy A bottle sampling wines, the most of the best important thing to do is Barolo pace oneself as you get to try quite a few. The vineyard landscapes of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato areas are so outstandingly beautiful they’ve been awarded UNESCO heritage status and the ancient castles and manor houses host wine-tastings and gourmet dining experiences. Piedmont is a foodie paradise and home to the Alba white truffle which is prized around the world. The area has 44 Michelin starred restaurants as well as tiny villages making delicious artisan cheeses, meats, and honey.

The breathtaking view from the Villa d’Amelia

Turin, the capital of Piedmont, is a city of royal palaces, imposing Baroque architecture, grand squares, and miles of arcades, sheltering cafes and ice-cream parlours. It’s the home of car giant, Fiat, and the Turin Shroud, which is stored in the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. The city also boasts Europe’s largest open-air market. Turin’s chocolate-makers are also worldrenowned. Peyrano Chocolates produces 60 varieties and over 100 tonnes of chocolate a year. The stacks of awards on their dresser is proof of their talent, though it is more obviously displayed by the trays of beautiful white, milk and dark chocolates and fruit jellies. If you have to choose, go for the Giandujotti, a mouth-melting truffle and the Grappino, a dark chocolate Schnapps liqueur to die for. The village of Gavi, an hour’s drive south, is home to only 4,000 people, but it has 92 wine producers, turning out 12 million bottles a year. The biggest is Villa Sparina, a former royal hunting lodge, lovingly transformed into a wine estate and elegant hotel. Non-residents can book for lunch and a wine tasting at its restaurant, La Gallina, and enjoy the stunning, panoramic views from the terrace. At the restaurant our host is Alfonso who expertly opens a white, sparkling Villa Sparina (£24) while explaining that ‘terroir’, literally translated, means the earth or

The Marchesa Di Barolo estate produces 1.5 million bottles of fine wine a year

soil in which the grapes were grown, but it also means a sense of place. Few wines are as connected to their villages as Gavi, he says. Next stop is Asti, the town that gave us Asti Spumante in the 1970s. Steeped in history, with towers, palaces, and museums, it draws massive crowds every September for the Palio, a horse race in the centre of the city. Sweet wine is only served with dessert, so we try reds. The Barbera Superior (from £15) is ‘good with aged products like hard cheese and stews.’ And the Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (£10) ‘with its rose and pepper aromas is a favourite with ladies.’ In nearby Canelli, Coppo Wine, runs wine-tastings and tours of its historic cellars, built in the 1880s, they too have been awarded UNESCO status. A favourite is the Spumante Riserva Coppa 2010, which is dry, delicious, and perfect as an ‘aperitivo.’ On the road to Alba we pass forests of hazelnut trees, oak, and poplar. This is where the Alba white truffle hides out, prized for its unique, pungent, musky, nutty, garlicky smell, and its ability to stir something primal in anyone tasting it. I get a taste of black truffle at the Terra Cooking School, where chef Giovanni is showing us how to make Agnolotti del Plin, a beef ravioli with butter and sage – white truffle is only available from September to January. He shaves it over the pasta. The smell hits me instantly. The taste is sublime. The Villa d’Amelia hotel, with breathtaking views as far as the Alps, is a beautiful base from which to explore this area, and its

Alba truffles make you feel primal

Michelin starred restaurant, the Damiano Nigro, produces exquisite dishes that look like works of art. Nearby, 11th century, Grinzane Castle attracts international bidders and celebrities to its annual Alba White Truffle Auction. It’s also home to the Truffle Knights, who travel the world promoting the area’s food and wine. By fluke, we find them in their chainmail and tights, looking more like flag-throwing Morris dancers, but more tanned and handsome. A girl’s head could be turned by a Truffle Knight, but when it comes to seduction, the wine in Piedmont has the edge.

THE JEWISH CONNECTION The symbol of Turin, the Mole Antonelliana, a tower that soars over the city, was originally commissioned as a synagogue, by the Jewish community in Turin after they were granted freedom of worship in 1848. As building costs became too expensive they withdrew from the project and built a smaller synagogue 15 minutes away on the Piazzetta Primo Levi, which you can visit today. The tower now houses the National Cinema Museum. Primo Levi is buried in the Jewish Section of the Monumental Cemetery in the centre of Turin. CONTACTS: Marchesi di Barolo wine-tasting and tour £20: marchesibarolo.com Peyrano chocolates: peyrano.com Villa Sparina hotel, restaurant, and winery: villasparinaresort.it Coppo Wine tastings and tours from £20-40: coppo.it Terra Cooking School three-course classes from £140: en.terra.academy


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Jewish News 19 July 2018

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Frui Course/ Summer Dining

Time for you After spending most or all of the summer with the children (lovely as they are), you might want to reward yourself with some me-time. What better way to do that than to connect with nature or culture – or both? On its website, Frui describes itself as the “world’s largest specialist in handcrafted creative holidays and courses”, offering cookery, painting, drawing and photography courses led by “exceptional tutors and local guides”. It is a company for solo travellers looking to combine great locations with creativity and their courses include gastronomy in Puglia, Morocco and Kerala, photography in Jerusalem, Iceland and Myanmar, and painting in

Cooking in Puglia

Sardinia, Lisbon and Puglia. Founder and CEO of Frui, James Lockett, says the company aims to help its clients – many of whom are repeat customers – gain interesting perspectives on the world. As the groups are small – a maximum of 10 people – people bond easily. And, unlike other companies offering creative trips, Frui, which is in its tenth year, does not only target the retired market. “We get a real mix of people on our holidays,” affirms James, who has a background in teaching art and photography. “On our recent Botswana trip, for example, we had people in their midthirties to mid-sixties, and they all tend to be good fun. Some of them have been away with us on more than eight trips... We talk about the ‘Frui family vibe’.” So why would people choose to come on Frui holidays on their own, I ask James. “Our clients are solo travellers – it might be that their other half is not that interested in photography, or they want to have a break where they’re not being hurried along, or it could be that they’ve got some money but their friends have got families and they want to go

Painting in Lisbon

on holiday with like-minded creative people,” he explains. The trips – lasting a long weekend (from £599) or up to two weeks (from £3,000) – are

Photography in Namibia

suitable for complete beginners, James assures. “We cover the basics but after that we do creative projects where you focus on a few technical aspects so it’s not like you’re being bombarded by technical knowhow. It’s more about how you enjoy the location by engaging with it more creatively than you would if you were sitting by the pool.” If you do want to learn, or reacquaint yourself with some of the basics before you go, Frui also runs day courses in London, Bristol, Leeds and Brighton. However, it might be hard to narrow down which type of holiday or which location to choose! www.frui.co.uk

WIN £100 TO SPEND WITH FRUI! Jewish News and Frui have teamed up to offer two lucky readers £100 to spend on holidays and courses! FRUI is a small, family-run company with big ideas. Founded 10 years ago, it offers an amazing portfolio of creative holidays, consisting of everything from short weekend breaks in Europe to extended holidays in locations like Namibia, Botswana and Mongolia, along with photography, painting or gastronomy holidays in Italy, France and Portugal. Closer to home, Frui runs exciting photography courses in and outside London. Frui’s philosophy is to deliver holidays with an unobtrusive, fun learning element. Above all, they try to immerse guests in local culture - from the hotels to the meals and places visited. Frui holidays operate through small groups of six to 10 guests. There are no single supplements or hidden costs, plus Frui sends one of its regular UK

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Jewish News 19 July 2018

Summer Dining / Gardening

Get a GREAT Garden When the outside space looks shabby, it’s all about the three G’s says Brigit Grant

H

ow many times have you sat in the garden over the past few weeks and felt disappointed? Sure it’s sunny and yes, the rose bushes did survive the winter, but now the lawn lacks lustre, the patio is tired and drab and your plans to plant blooms before the summer came to nothing. To avoid feeling let down next spring and potentially end this year with a garden that makes you smile, you need to invite Russell and Son landscapers over for a rethink. We did that, just as the heat wave started and within a week they had sorted the fences and cleaned-up the patio and it isn’t going to end there. At our request they gave an honest assessment of what was needed to make our outdoor space sparkle, and over time we will be getting a new fountain in the pond, decking on the patio and a larger, useful shed in a shade of Med blue. We needed the advice because unlike redecorating the living room, there’s more to gardening than brushstrokes of magnolia. Based in Essex, the family-run Russell and Son has the expertise and the easy manner of the workers makes them good to have around. Their impressive reputation and glowing references are for their inventive garden designs and bespoke solutions for the most awkward outdoor space. When it comes to decking they are never floored no matter what the size or gradient of the landscape. And if you are short on space indoors, then extend with a deck and patio heaters for the autumn and wait for spring in your new garden. Russell & Son: 07736 670 531 / russellandson.com


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Gardening / Summer Dining

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Jewish News 19 July 2018

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Summer dining  

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