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October 2011


DSM (P acific) Pty . Ltd. Suite 909-910, Trust Building, 155, King Street, Sydney, NSW 2000. Australia.

Tel.: (61-2) 9232 1410/1415 Fax: (61-2) 9232 1412 Email: info@dsmpacific.com W ebsite: www .dsmpacific.com


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jewellers trade - October 2011

inside... COVER:

Ellani Collections www.ellanicollections.com.au jewellers trade magazine ABN: 41 143 385 895 PO Box 69, Camden NSW 2570 Tel: 0431 844 903 Fax: (02) 8078 4722 Subscription enquires: www.jewellerstrade.com.au Enquires: info@jewellerstrade.com.au Web: www.jewellerstrade.com.au Managing Director Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903 jeremy@jewellerstrade.com.au Editor Jo Thompson 0408 468 512 editor@jewellerstrade.com.au Contributing Writers Sharm Aboosally Cheryl Harty Elizabeth Hoy Michael Rees Art design@jewellerstrade.com.au Advertising Sales Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903 sales@jewellerstrade.com.au

DISCLAIMER: This publication may not be reproduced in whole or part without the written permission of the Publisher. Articles express the opinions of the authors and are not necessarily those of the Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or service in this magazine does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. All information is copyright.

regulars

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News 6 Bits and Pieces 16 On the Road 18 Rocking with MIE 20 Tools of the Trade 22 John’s Watch 24 DDCA News 26 Diary 57

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features JAA Fair Report 14 New Zealand News 28 Zag Watches 34 ASJA Awards 36 The Battle over Bridal Bling 38 Selling the Hardest Substance 40 Season of Silver 44 Tipping in New York 46 Be Luscious 50 Elegant Individualism 54

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The Sydney trade fair seems to have been light on the feet this year, which can only mean there are a lot of retailers yet to make that important decision of what dress the windows with this Christmas. This month’s issue of jewellers trade is full of options for you to ponder - some lovely traditional gear, and some exciting niche styles. The financial reports have recorded high personal savings of late, and the time fast approaches when people dig deep into their pockets. Christmas is just around the corner - don’t leave your buying too late. We have had an influx of subscribers this month from New Zealand mainly due to JANZ recommending jewellers trade to their members as a great source of information. Thank you for the compliment. We will endeavour to keep you all informed. With the World Cup on, the atmosphere must be electric in New Zealand and many hoteliers will have made a buck or three. Let’s hope when it’s all over you too get the cents rolling in over the Christmas period. Our new monthly articles ‘Tools of the Trade’ and ‘John’s Watch’ are there to help inform and educate so take the time to have a gander. Please let us know what you think. We value your comments, and our contributors are just as interested to learn what you’d like to read about. We’re committed to ensuring our mag is packed with information that is up to date and helpful to the trade. Drop us a note at editor@jewellerstrade.com.au.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

News Rio Tinto Board Appointment

In Gold We Trust

September saw Chris Lynch join the Boards of Rio Tinto PLC and Rio Tinto Limited as a non-executive director.

The gold price will keep rising and possibly approach $5,000 an ounce in the next decade, according to a new report published by Standard Chartered Bank.

Chris Lynch has had an extensive career in the mining and metals industry, including seven years at BHP Billiton, where he was chief financial officer and then executive director and group president - Carbon Steel Materials.  Prior to this he spent 20 years with Alcoa Inc. He is currently chief executive officer of Transurban Group and is also a commissioner of the Australian Football League. Rio Tinto chairman Jan du Plessis said “I am delighted that Chris Lynch is joining the Boards. He has nearly 30 years of tremendous experience acquired in the mining and metals industry. In addition, Chris is a leading figure in the Australian business community and his appointment reflects the significance of Australia to Rio Tinto’s global operations. He brings with him considerable international experience gained from other global businesses from which we also stand to benefit.”

“Our research takes a bullish view on gold,” the report said. “The gold market will be under deficit for the next five years.” As with similar outlooks for the diamond industry, the Bank argued that the growing desire for gold, particularly “insatiable” demand from China and India, will likely outstrip supply in the coming years. It noted that the mining industry “has done little” to bring on new gold mines and that the metal’s production is likely to grow only 3 percent over the next few years. “Gold growth will be limited, which will continue to fuel the gold cycle,” the report concluded. “We believe demand will be driven by continued growth in per capita GDP in China and India, a weak U.S. dollar and high inflation, which have fuelled doubt in the creditability of paper currency.”


Original

Fantasy Collection

www.ioion.com.au

The Vault Jewellery Distributors Pty Ltd Ph 03 9526 8690 sales@vaultjewellery.com.au www.vaultjewellery.com.au

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CO LO UR YO UR LIFE

October 2011 - jewellers trade


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jewellers trade - October 2011

News Big Pink A 21.73-carat light pink diamond that recently came through the New York laboratory of the Gemological Institute of America was identified as being treated using the highpressure, high-temperature (HPHT) process. The marquise brilliant cut diamond is one of the largest HPHTtreated pinks ever identified by the GIA. The GIA reported that HPHT annealing has become common in recent years as advances in technology have enabled colour enhancing in larger and larger stones. Labs with the proper equipment are able to detect when diamonds have treated. Various laser excitations carried out at liquid nitrogen temperatures will produce photoluminescence spectra which can reveal HPHT annealing in a diamond.

Petra Aquires Finsch Diamond Mine Petra Diamonds has completed its acquisition $132 million of the Finsch diamond mine in South Africa from De Beers Consolidated Mines which was first announced on 21 January. The Finsch mine is expected to more than double Petra’s annual production, contributing more than 1.5 million carats a year. It will become the eighth producing diamond mine in Petra’s portfolio joining the Cullinan and Kimberley mines, both based in South Africa and purchased from De Beers in 2007.

JAA Golf Day The annual NSW/ACT Jewellers Charity Golf Day will be held on Tuesday, 25 October 2011 at Kogarah Golf Club, Arncliffe NSW. It’s bound to be a fun day on the green, and a great opportunity to network and catch up with friends and colleagues.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

News Marange’s Largest Mine Mbada Mines (Pvt) Ltd, which operates in Zimbabwe’s Marange diamond area, is producing more than 150,000 carats a month, surpassing Rio Tinto’s Murowa mine as the country’s largest diamond producer, according to the firm’s chairman, Robert Mhlanga. Rio Tinto’s Murowa diamond mine produced 178,000 carats in 2010 and 125,000 in the first half of 2011. “Our vision is to be the leading gem producer globally,” Mhlanga told Bloomberg in Harare, where the company is based. Mbada is one of four companies currently mining diamonds in Marange. While Mhlanga declined to tell the news source how many diamonds are currently being produced at the Marange fields, Mines Minister Obert Mpofu has said publicly that annual income from Marange could rise to US$2 billion if the country is allowed to export gems freely.

Social Media A recent report by digital think tank L2 slammed the watch and jewellery industry for being behind when it comes to embracing the digital world, including social media. Of the six watch and jewellery brands included in the study only one, Tiffany & Co., was lauded for its digital efforts while the other brands ranked as average or below average.


October 2011 - jewellers trade

News Trollbeads Names New US CEO

Trollbeads United States has named Michael J. Belleveau, the former president and chief executive officer of Baccarat, as its new CEO. Belleveau takes over the job on September 19 having spent the last eight years at Baccarat, with roles at Cartier, Victorinox/Swiss Army and Bulgari before that. In the US Trollbeads has ten concept stores, as well as over 1,000 retail shops carrying its range. Trollbeads has been much in the news this year since its parent company took over distribution of the product from Lund Trading who had long managed the line in the United States.

Sell More Platinum Customers are more likely to consider buying platinum if the store’s inventory levels of platinum bridal are 25 percent or higher, according to a study done by Platinum Guild International. The results suggest that as inventory levels rise, sales associates become more confident in selling the metal. Although it seems too obvious to say so, you can’t sell platinum unless you stock platinum. However, the study seems to suggest there’s a ‘wow’ level that must be achieved in a store’s display to induce customers to buy. Of course, with the price of gold, there’s also less price resistance from customers when they’re presented with platinum.

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Diamond Planet A team of astronomers, headed by Matthew Bailes of Swinburne University of Technology in Melbourne, has discovered a planet 4,000 light years away estimated to be composed entirely of diamond. The planet is known as PSR J1719-1438, is five times the size of Earth and is located in the constellation Serpens. Rotating around a spinning star known as a pulsar, the planet is believed to be the remains of another once-massive star which has collapsed, causing the carbon within it to crystallise into diamond. Diamond dealers who might be worried about what this discovery will mean for the price of diamonds can relax. The absolutely enormous distance between Earth and the diamond planet makes recovery utterly impossible. Besides, no one here on Earth has a showroom large enough. However, diamond is believed to be common out there in space. Carbon is the fourth most abundant element in the universe, and with the right temperature and a little pressure, a diamond is the likely result. We can dream of a diamond asteroid landing in our back garden, but as a few wits on Twitter have remarked, perhaps we should be looking for an asteroid composed of gold. That might be the only way to bring gold prices back down to earth.

Doggy Does It Again A jeweller’s pet in the US state of Georgia recently chowed down on a $10,000 snack. The furry fiend belonged to Chuck Roberts of John Ross Jewelers who had been working at his desk with four plastic bags of loose diamonds. Roberts left his desk to attend to a client and was robbed by his own puppy, Honey Bun. When Roberts returned he was stunned to find only three bags of diamonds and a toothmarked plastic baggy on the floor. It wasn’t hard to guess the culprit. Honey Bun was taken to be x-rayed, but to no avail, as carbon doesn’t show up on x-rays. The wait began. The following afternoon, after Honey Bun laboured a little over a diamond studded surprise, there was much relief all round. The stones were steam cleaned and retuned to the supplier, who may or may not have been pleased to get them back.


Gold Rush Jewellers and gold dealers around the world have reported a growing trend as individuals in the US, Europe, Asia and Australia sell their jewellery. With gold buyers setting up kiosks in almost every suburban shopping mall, many people are taking advantage of the rising gold price and cashing in their bling. Bullion traders and refiners are working at full capacity to convert the recycled gold into bars to meet the demands of gold investors seeking a safe haven from otherwise wildly fluctuating markets. There are concerns that the trend could lead to an eventual shortage of quality antique and vintage jewellery. Such wide-spread recycling of gold hasn’t been seen since the early 80s when gold roared up a similar bull market. At that time, gold had been hovering around US$40 per ounce in the 1970s, and peaked at US$850 per ounce in January 1980s. By the mid 80s the price had fallen to around US$250 per ounce where it stayed until 9/11, but has recently zoomed skyward once more passing the US$1900 mark.

Recycled gold made up two-fifths of total annual gold supplies last year. The World Gold Council estimates that the supply of recycled gold was 1,645 tonnes last year with the numbers for this year looking similar. However, gold’s big price spike has happened in the third quarter, and after a bullion refining and production time-lag we can expect to see a sharp rise in recycled gold rates for this half of the year. Many financial advisors believe gold is overdue for a correction, but global concerns about the US dollar, shaky European economies and low interests is likely to continue to encourage investors to buy gold. According to the World Gold Council, the jewellery industry consumed 48 per cent of total global gold consumption last year, but the industry remains worried as jewellery consumers feel the pinch. With Christmas coming there’s the very real risk that shoppers will scale back their jewellery purchases or shift to cheaper items with less gold. One thing is sure. Gold will continue to confound the forecasters for a long time to come.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

JAA Fair

Industry Development By Elizabeth Hoy

The International Jewellery Fair (IJF), held at Sydney’s Darling Harbour convention centre over three days in August, celebrated their 20th anniversary. Also reaching milestones were buying groups Nationwide and Showcase – 20 and 30 years respectively – and precious metals dealers Palloys whose 60th birthday cupcakes were a hit with exhibitors and visitors alike. Once again, the fair hosted trade associations and educational organisations in a jewellery support services hub. Over 21 per cent of exhibitors were new to the fair, and this year the Jewellers Association of New Zealand (JANZ) joined their local counterparts, allowing for greater networking opportunities. Organisers Expertise Events have signed on for another five years, which will allow the Jewellers Association of Australia (JAA) to provide funding for new initiatives, including an enquiry into apprenticeships and training schemes.

Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia (GSGA)

The GSGA stand featured an active jeweller’s workstation, where President Chris Sherwin and other members demonstrated skills such as hand carving to fair visitors. Chris is pleased that students, established jewellers, valuers and retailers return to the stand each year to ask questions, access information about the Guild and its members, and also join up. The Guild sees the fair as an excellent opportunity to promote their precious metal marking system to the wider trade, and for members to give feedback on the scheme. GSGA members are required to follow the Australian Standards in metal quality assurance, and apply the Guild stamp (a kangaroo’s head) along with their maker’s mark. A date stamp is optional. “It is important to network with our colleagues in the ‘educational’ arm of the industry including valuers, GAA members and the GJI,” said Chris. “The Sydney trade fair is a good focal point for the trade each year and as an organisation we are an important part of the jewellery industry.” One of the aims of the Guild is to assist young jewellers, and it sponsors apprenticeship awards in WA, Queensland, NSW and Victoria, the ‘Buda’ silversmithing awards, and Workskills Australia.

Past president Graeme Kellett spruiked the Australian Overseas Foundation, which enables young Australians from all trades and professions to study and further their careers overseas. Three jewellers have received funding in the last five years, and Graeme encourages more to apply. The Guild held a dinner for members, family and representatives from other associations, at Darling Harbour. Tracy Kelly was recognised for her work in producing the Touchplate magazine.

National Council of Jewellery Valuers (NCJV)

The NCJV exhibit at the trade fair as a service to their members, according to Education Officer Graham Easy. The trade can also ask questions about becoming a member of the association, which offers several options apart from being a practising valuer. Some businesses qualify as affiliate members, and shops which only use registered valuers can apply to be sponsored members. Students who wish to embark on the learning process can join the NCJV, however they cannot issue valuations, and retired valuers can still receive information including The Valuer magazine. The NCJV is in the final stages of gaining accreditation for their course, the Diploma of Applied Gemmology (Valuation), which is a prerequisite to being a registered valuer. Valuers are also required to update their education each year, and keep up with market trends. Over 100 members were given a short lesson at the stall, learning about newgeneration lead-filled rubies and how to spot fake brandname watches, for which they received education update points.

Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA)

Publicity Officer Kathryn Wyatt thinks the trade fair is a “good way to get in front of a lot of people” and this year the GAA had several initiatives to promote to fair-goers.


October 2011 - jewellers trade The Fred Storch scholarship will be available annually for Diploma of Diamond Technology students. “It’s a fantastic contribution to honour Fred,” said Kathryn. Application forms are available on the GAA’s updated website. Gemmology students can now apply to be an “international rock star” by sitting additional exams for the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Gem-A Diploma. An update course has been developed as an opportunity for rusty gemmologists to refresh their knowledge and upgrade their qualifications. Online courses, in conjunction with the JAA, will be available soon. Designed to help retail consultants sell coloured gems, diamonds and jewellery with confidence, they will give students “a good, basic standing upon which to grow”. The GAA has produced a limited edition of gold and silver gem-set supporter pins, cufflinks and pendants, which are available to members. Federal President Terry Coldham was presented with the GSGA’s Tony Kean award at the fair. “It’s wonderful to see another association appreciate how much work Terry has put into the industry, not just for the good of the GAA but the industry as a whole”, said Kathryn.

Gem and Jewellery Institute of Australasia (GJI)

Queensland-based GJI are a registered training organisation (RTO) providing accredited vocational training courses to the jewellery and allied trades, as well as a range of gem-testing equipment. Courses included the face-to face Gem-A Diploma and the online Certificate IV in Retail Management which can be undertaken in modules or in full. Director Marilyn Healy said the courses have a “broad appeal”. Earlier this year GJI signed on to be the RTO for the NCJV’s diploma course. GJI have a booth at the fair to “network with industry representatives at all levels, buyers and wholesalers”, and to build and reinforce their “brand” of education. “The fair exceeded our expectations. The interest shown was genuine and enthusiastic, and demonstrated to us that GJI has a very bright future”, said Marilyn.

Top-Bottom: • Marilyn Healy, Helen Levonis, Bob Sneyd of GJI. • Graeme Kellet, Chris Sherwin of GSGA • Bill Sechos, Sheila Catterall of GGA • The Industry Development Hub in action. Left: Terry Coldham received the Tony Kean Award from the GSGA for his contribution to the jewellery industry.

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jewellers trade - October 2011

Bits and Pieces By Michael Rees With India leading the way in jewellery and in particular gold items it might be interesting to see how they get their message out to the masses. Gitanjali Gems is one of the big wheelers and dealers and have domestic yearly sales of US $1.2b and Bollywood super star Katrina Kaif plays a huge part in their success. She has been recently ranked as the most visible celebrity on television. This helps no end with her role as ambassador for their Nakshatra brand. Katrina has put her image to good use - she has also been voted the sexiest woman in Asia of the past four years.

Now onto crime of a different sort. The US Jewellers Security Alliance has reported on how brazen some thieves can get. It seems that ‘Gypsy’ type thefts are on the increase. This is where crooks enter the shop and just grab whatever they can and take off. A couple of crooks have been using this technique with some success and reports have come through that they have hit businesses in Maryland, Missouri, Texas and New York. But this is where the twist comes in. They knocked off about $15,000 worth of jewellery in one heist. The owner put up a reward for information. You guessed it the crooks tried to supply the cops with some drum and claim the reward. But it all came unstuck when the police traced the hot goods to a pawn shop and collared the husband and wife team. This takes the meaning of double dipping to a whole new level.

While speaking about superstars, Leonardo DiCaprio had a recent stay in Sydney. He went looking for a necklace for his mother accompanied by two bulky bodyguards and wearing the favoured dress for people in his line of work, a hood and sunglasses. Leo spotted a shop in the Sydney CBD and went into the jewellers to have a look. But the sales girl took one look at them and decided, with good reason, that she was about to be robbed. She quickly called out for the boss who entered the fray. It was resolved very quickly but unfortunately for the jeweller Leo left without making a purchase. You just can’t bet bad luck.

Pam Danzier is a recognized expert in the field of luxury consumerism. She is the president of Unity

Marketing and addressed a crowd of retailers from the jewellery industry recently in the U.S. So it might be interesting to have a look at some of her more memorial quotes. “The saying goes that men wounded on the battlefield call out for their mothers. So spending on Mum will generally surpass that for Dad.” And on the big retail end of town: “Jewellery has become an affordable luxury for fashionforward women and men, as well as a favourite gift item in all price ranges. The jewellery market is becoming more democratic in the past decade as good quality and high design jewellery is now available at a much wider range of retailers. After all, Wal-Mart stores with more than US$2b in jewellery sales in 2000 is now the nation’s largest jewellery retailer.” I wonder if on-line sales have put a dent in this. But she gives real encouragement to retailers: “People will really stretch (to buy) jewellery”. There you have it.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

On The Road

with Colin Berger

Is It a True Clean Up? How often have we heard … a lot of jewellers will close after this Christmas as they can no longer compete or survive … ? Is this true? Does it happen, and is it a fair assumption? In reality, yes this does happen and there are jewellery stores closing. Unfortunately, most of the time it is ‘good’ jewellery stores that are forced to close ones that have traded well and done right not only by their customers, but by suppliers as well. I feel it is very sad when stores that have given customers loyal service, good product over many years, and built relationships with customers and suppliers have to stop trading while the shonky stores (as I call them) remain. As we know there are many factors effecting all businesses today - things are tough and we are in a luxury item business. There is a lot of doom and gloom out there and plenty negativity, and I accept things are tough, BUT does negativity help or change things? NO. We know it doesn’t! Making assumptions and just letting things continue the way they are does not change things or make them better. Does anything ever happen to the jeweller who does not do the right thing, the store selling under caratage, the retailer selling stones with incorrect or no certification? What are we doing as an industry to change this? What happens to the jeweller who did wrong by a customer? Their customer tells their friends... but that is it... and they keep trading. What happens to the jeweller who has always done right by their customer, and has only ever given fantastic service? They hope their customer tells their friends. It is human nature to tell people about bad incidents and experiences, rather than good ones, but this does not help clean up the industry in the right way.

us stop and wonder if the owners are ok, or if there anything we can do to assist? Did they close the business because they really wanted to? It is very different when a business closes because the owners want to retire, enjoy and reap the rewards of their hard work, compared with others that can no longer continue for other reasons. To me, a business that closes after many years of trade is always a sad event. People have put many years of love and time into building their business, reputation and relationships. How many wholesalers have supplied goods time after time, when they have known the retailer already owes them money? I believe we need to be there for our customers to help and support them, but they also need to do ‘the right thing’ by us. Helping customers in difficult times, and being there to support them is not always an easy decision to make, as there are risks involved, and we like to believe the customers will do the right thing at the end of the day, but often it is out of their hands when liquidators take over. Chatting to people all over I keep hearing stories of jewellers who did bad by a customer, or messed up an item, swapped a stone etc. We often hear about the ‘bad eggs’ in the industry, so how come it is not those stores that are closing down, but rather the ones doing the ‘right things’. I have met overseas suppliers who come to Australia and leave goods on consignment with retailers with whom they have never dealt and then hear them complaining how they cannot get their money or goods back. No one deserves this, but then I ask the question what would make you deal with these customers and why would you leave goods on consignment? We all like to deal with customers opening a second or third store, or extending their existing store. They are obviously operating and trading well, and good luck and well done to them, BUT how many wholesalers supply the ‘bad eggs’ as long as they pay their accounts on time. Is this the way to grow our industry and clean it up?

What is our reaction when we hear of a jewellery store that has closed its doors? I guarantee the first thought or question is ‘do they owe us money?’ I accept that we are all in business for the same reason, but we are also all humans. How many of

I would never tell anyone how to run their business or who to deal with, but I strongly believe we need to put time and effort into assisting good loyal customers rather than growing the ‘bad eggs’.


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Obituary Jack Townsend BSc FGAA 1945 - 2011 It is with great regret that we mark the passing of one of the GAA’s most esteemed members, Jack Townsend. Jack was held in high regard by all who met him, and shall be long remembered for his generosity, outstanding achievements, and his friendship. Serving the GAA in South Australia for many years, Jack held the positions of President, Federal Director, Editor of the Crystal Gazette (GAA’s South Australian division newsletter) and was a valuable member, teacher, mentor and much more. Jack’s contribution to the GAA over many years was formally recognised this year when he was awarded an honorary life membership. He accepted the award acknowledging it was as much in recognition of his wife Jenny’s support for him as it was for his own service to the Association he dearly loved. Jack is survived by his wife Jenny and their two sons. A memorial service for Jack will be held in Adelaide on the 17th of October.


October 2011 - jewellers trade

Eye of the

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“Rocking with MIE Creations”

Pietersite

Storm

Named after its founder, Sid Pieters, in 1962 when it was first discovered in Namibia, then later in the Hunan Province of China in 1993, Pietersite is known for its whimsical, thunderous patterns and a spectacular visual effect known to gemmologists as chatoyancy. Pietersite’s main constituent is a blue, gold and/or red mineral called Crocidolite, a pseudomorph that is also responsible for the golden silky gemstone Tiger Eye. A pseudomorph refers to a substitution from one mineral to another whilst retaining the original appearance and dimensions. In the case of Crocidolite, a form of asbestos, quartz (silica) replaces the fibrous mineral remaining true to its fine, dense needle-like structure.

The parallel arrangement of the silicified asbestos fibres creates a distinctive sheen known as chatoyancy, where the silky play of light reflects from beneath the stones’ surface. Bunny Bedi, owner and Creative Director of Made In Earth Creations, explains how this effect is best captured when cutting. “In order to see the chatoyancy at its most brilliant our cutters need to be vigilant to ensure the biggest areas of fibres are parallel to the base of the cabochon.” Bunny continues, “Safety must also be considered in case areas of unadulterated rock create airborne fibres of asbestos - for this reason a mask should be worn whilst polishing Pietersite or any mineral containing Crocidolite.”

By Stacey Florescu Creative and Marketing Manager Made In Earth Creations

“Although Pietersite can come in a small variety of colours and combinations, the blue hues from a light grey tone through to a deep midnight navy, that are mined from Namibia, are most prized and desired by our customers”, Bunny explains. “When found with patches of golden brown the contrast can be a stunning display which visually increases the intensity of the blue.” The golden colour in Pietersite is due to the oxidization of Crocidolite during its formation with the presence of iron. Although it has the chatoyancy of Tiger Eye, Pietersite is not usually found with a constant directional structure of bands and fibres but rather in swirls, swathes and segments. Crystallizing in masses, this mineral has been stressed, folded, fractured and broken apart during the earth’s geological process. The fibrous materials have been reformed and naturally re-cemented together by quartz and occasionally with parts of jasper - a cryptocrystalline variety of quartz. This formation creates a brecciated aggregate with a rather chaotic pattern of bold, multi-directional strokes of fibres giving it its reputation of a ferocious, thunder bound sky.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Article submitted by Selwyn Brandt “House Of Jewellery”

Tools of the Trade PUK3s High Frequency Welder High frequency (HF) pulse welding for silver To keep products on the cutting edge of technology, there have been further developments to the unique PUK welding system. As part of this extensive update, the popular PUK 3 precision welder has been fitted with a series of improved features. The most important of these, is the introduction of high frequency pulse welding. Here the welding impulses are overlaid with high frequency pulses, so that the characteristics of the welding arc are positively influenced. By using this method, it has been possible to better respond to the requirements of individual alloys, and influence their welding behaviour. PUK fine welding devices The PUK fine welding devices are compact and versatile TIG impulse welders with which fine and minute welds can be carried out under a welding microscope. The operating principles and spectrum of possible applications are very close to those of laser welding. This similarity means that the exact positioning of small stable welds, in hard to get to or deep lying positions, poses no problem. In contrast to soldering, the area of the work piece that is affected by heat is very small when working with the PUK 3s, so small in fact, that problem free welds adjacent to precious stones and pearls can be handled with ease. Generally speaking, all metals or alloys that is suitable for TIG welding or laser welding, are also suitable for welding with the PUK 3s. Amongst these are precious metals and precious alloys as well as many types of Steel, Titanium, Nickel and Tin alloys (costume jewellery). Advantages of the PUK3s Arc welding with impulse modelling maximises the benefits of TIG impulse welding. In the “Standard” mode, welding impulses of the PUK3s have been specially modified and modelled to produce optimum results on most alloys and special metals. With HF pulse welding the high frequency pulse welding combines several useful attributes. Using this process, welding impulses that have already been modelled, are overlaid with a high frequency oscillation of 5 kHz. This process greatly improves the welding performance especially on alloys with very high heat conductivity. With Gap Mode high frequency pulse welding is also used to positively influence the form of the arc and the arc force. The Gap mode uses a particularly rigid arc to optimise performance when faced with acute angles and deep lying welding areas. Micro Mode finely tunes welding impulses and pulse

lengths allowing micro welds of sheet material only 0.10mm in thickness and 0,25mm wire thickness! PUK convincing features, real benefits Low heat The work piece only heats up in the immediate area of the weld, allowing welds in heat-sensitive areas such as, next to stones, pearls or spring elements. Repair with ease Position precise and accurate welds and welded seams in hard to get to places and on thin materials. This prevents “total write-offs / total losses” and avoids the need for the time consuming construction of new items.

Cufflink backs are easily attached.

A foot switch is now included as standard.

Save time when soldering Set a few quick welding-spots before soldering instead of the time-consuming wire binding. Save time on repairs After welding is completed, it is only necessary to clean the work piece directly at the welding area. Outside of the welding area, the surface texture, polish, and the surface of plated work pieces remains unaffected by the welding process; gemstones can be left in their settings in most cases. Easy to use, learn how in minutes Simple to operate, enables a straightforward and intuitive configuration of the parameters.

Ring resizing made easy.

Extremely low running costs PUK machines have very low gas consumption, and the life expectancy of an electrode is around 2000 welds. Maintenance free No additional servicing charges or costs. Needs only Argon gas and electrodes. Small and manageable - Fits in any workshop.

Replacing earring posts is easy, even with stones still in place!

3 Year Guarantee Supplied with a full 3 year guarantee “Clean” welds with minimum gas consumption The “flooding” of the welding area with protective gas is automatically controlled and monitored helping to minimise gas consumption. Quality “made in Germany” Machines carry the CE – mark and have the “GS” safety standards certification.

Little heat is generated. You can hold the piece you’re welding.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

John’s Watch

The

Lost ofArt

Selling Watches Over the past few years, I’ve had a lot of retailers tell me that “watches are really hard work”, “they just don’t sell anymore”, “everyone has a mobile phone, so why do they need a watch to tell the time?” etc.   I am here to tell you that this is rubbish. For every retailer who claims that watches don’t sell anymore, I can give you one who has increased sales. As for telling the time, since when was a watch bought so as to tell the time? Watches are, and always have been, a statement about the wearer or an item of beauty that makes the wearer feel good. They just happen to also tell the time!   I used to work for a watch company with products retailing from $1,000 to $70,000. We used to say (and I’ll bet the people in this company and their competitors still say) “no one buys a $10,000 watch to tell the time”. They are clearly able to afford any number of expensive things, but if all they wanted was to tell the time, they could use their mobile or a cheap $20 watch from the local market.   The same applies to fashion watches from $50 to $400 and for ‘traditional’ brands that sell above that. I have never heard anyone say that they want to go and buy a watch because they need it to tell them the time. What you do hear people saying is ”oh, look at that beautiful watch, I’d love it on my wrist”, or “that’s so cute, it would go so well with my pink dress”, or “that would look great with my suit when I’m presenting to the board next week”.   What this means, is that watches must firstly be presented well in the store. If a window position is available, then that would be the ideal spot, as all brands have great display material to get the attention of the consumer and draw them to the watches. The watches and the display must be spotless. Dust, dead flies, watches on their side or upside down do nothing to inspire the consumer that the product is worth buying, if that’s how the retailer treats them.

  A really good look is to use gloves when handling the watches and a soft tray. This reinforces to the customer that the watch is something that should be handled with respect.   Watches should be grouped in a logical manner, whether it be by design, function, gold, steel, etc. as long as there is some system. This helps the consumer to narrow down the selection. Most consumers will be interested in trying on a few watches and this is where the problems really begin in some stores and the reason why the comment at the start of this article is heard “watches are really hard work”.   As I mentioned in last month’s article, there has been a significant loss in knowledge and expertise in watches in our industry over the last 10 years and where once the person behind the counter could easily explain the various differences between a chronometer and a chronograph, a quartz and an automatic movement or the meaning of ‘10 ATM’, etc. this is not the case so much today.   Watches may be complicated on the inside, after all, they represent some of the most incredible developments of miniaturisation man has ever achieved, but they are not complicated to sell. A basic understanding of the various features will reap big dividends when a consumer asks a question, as they admire the watch on their wrist. From there, a jeweller should apply exactly the same principles they do when selling jewellery and it doesn’t hurt to say things like “that suits you so well and it will go with so many different items of clothing”, or “this watch will look good for many years to come” or “it comes with a 3 year warranty”, or “not only does it look good, but you could use it to time little Johnny’s sprints on the track during training using the stop-watch function”, or “sir, for your needs, I’d recommend this one, it costs a little more, but will last longer if you are using it for diving” etc.   In the next article, we’ll explore some of the terminology used in watches and how the various functions can be explained simply to a consumer.   In the meantime, don’t be afraid to pick up some of the watches in your store, have a close look at them. Read some of the material the supplier has given you and the next time a consumer asks to try a watch on, you will find that selling a watch can be the easiest thing in the world.

John Papaioannou of Time-Essentials


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jewellers trade - October 2011

DDCA News

The WFDB Asian Summit By Rami Baron

On 18 September I attended the Asian Summit in Hong Kong for two purposes - to understand first hand what is happening in our region particularly in China and to take the project of the Retail Mark as the marketing tool of the WFDB to the next stage.

Clarity from the RJC

Prior to leaving Sydney I spoke with Michael Rae, the CEO of the Responsible Jewellery Council, who in light of my recent article which was published on the WFDB website, contacted me to explain a number of aspects of the RJC and its goals, which I had expressed in the article I needed clarity on. This discussion provided me with a clear appreciation of the goals and of the RJC, and more importantly the necessity to achieve the high standards it promotes particularly on the issue of ‘chain of ownership’. This concept is about each entity being able to prove to the next in the chain that the goods that they are selling are not coming from a conflict region, or one which is based on the abuse of its indigenous or poverty stricken population. The fundamentals of the RJC are that through strict auditing procedures members are than qualified to show that they are operating ethically, and in no way exposing themselves to possible money laundering, financing of terrorist activity or other unethical and unacceptable business practices. Interestingly, the membership is open to the largest and the smallest in the jewellery trade and it is not specific to diamonds but to all jewellery, precious stones, metals and timepieces. Because the RJC is still in its infancy, the matter of having one’s business audited in a country like Australia could be a costly exercise at this point in time, as it requires an independent auditor such as Deloitte . I am sure, as Michael Rae assured me,

that it is not the RJC’s intention or desire for audits to be costly and they have a number ideas on how such costs could be amortized by bringing on more registered auditors. I personally applaud this initiative and having briefly discussed our Retail Mark initiative with Michael, they too would support a diamond marketing initiative which reaches out to retailers and underlines the importance of striving for the standards set out in the RJC.

Back to the Asian Summit

The numbers from Asia are staggering when you compare them to Oz. In China, between January 2011 and August 2011, diamond transactions reached $2.722 billion - a 57% increase on the same period last year. Twelve million couples got married in China in 2010. According to De Beers online survey, in the big cities like Shanghai and Beijing 8 out of 10 couples purchase a diamond ring. The Bangkok jewellery industry has grown 9.8% with a strong push to maintain Thailand as the focal point for the coloured gemstone trade. Diamonds play a major role in Thailand as clearly the presence of a GIA lab in Bangkok shows. Hong Kong ... wow, wait for it ... the diamond trade in Hong Kong went from $4.8billion in 2000 to $23.5billion in 2010. A 387% increase. Amazing! Japan is still recovering from all the natural disasters.

Retail Mark

The Retail Mark team, currently being driven by the president of the Sinagpore diamond exchange Suresh Hathiranani, Alex Popov president of the Russian diamond exchange, Nicolas Chretien our strategic advisor from Bank of Change and myself, presented the next stage of our project to the

executive of the WFDB. It was well received and we are now embarking on the next critical stage of forming its structure as a entity owned and controlled by the WFDB but with its own mandate and operations to achieve its goals, I am very excited to be working with such a committed team and through the use of Skype and collaborative Google Docs the world is a very small place. A new development in the the trade is the launching of the Idex price list. This is the first real alternative to Rapport. Having personally spoken with Udi Cohen, the CEO of Idex, it is really impressive to see that they have taken such an initiative and that the price list is being driven on transactional data feed from the Idex site. Already at the Hong Kong trade show I saw a number of the price lists on tables and there was a general consensus that it was very very accurate - which of course is what you would expect from a live data feed. The Hong Kong show is a true barometer of the market and although we have seen swinging prices I see the insatiable demand from China and India driving prices up but hopefully in a more gradual manner . Big swings cause the market to pause and lose confidence, which gets felt down the line. For a commodity, which is what diamonds are, we punch well above our weight in terms of visibility in the eyes of consumers. The need to communicate to the consumer trust, confidence and accountability is more pressing than ever before if we want to grow our segment of the luxury market. When we launch the Retail Mark in the near future we will have added two additional tenants - Responsibility and Unity. The Retail Mark will unify all segments of the diamond trade because it is essential, it is in everyone’s interest and in simple terms, it makes sense.

Trade well, Rami Baron.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

New Zealand News Russell Sinclair, Executive Director JANZ and Northern Regional Manager NZRA, visited the JAA Fair in Sydney in September. He shares his experience at the Fair and his thoughts on the industry in New Zealand.

Having never attended an international jewellery show I was keen to take up the offer from Expertise Events to have a Jewellers Association of New Zealand (JANZ) booth and Kiwi lounge at the 2011 JAA International Jewellery Fair in Sydney. The venue, the Sydney Exhibition Centre on Darling Harbour, is a magnificent facility as well as being very central for conferences, conventions, trade shows and the like. Set up day on Saturday was an experience in itself with the security, the sheer size of the Fair and the hive of activity that was taking place with all manner of machinery creating displays. Arriving on the Sunday ready to do business, the transformation was amazing and once again I found the sheer size of the Trade Show almost overwhelming. The Fair was significant in that it was the 20th anniversary of the Fair and the Nationwide Group in Australia and the 30th anniversary of the Showcase Group. The JANZ booth was located adjacent to four other Australian jewellery trade associations in the professional development area. This I thought was an excellent idea and from my point of view made it easy to meet with and discuss with the various associations their involvement and current issues facing the industry. The associations included the Gem and Jewellery Institute, National Council of Jewellery Valuers, the Gold and Silversmith Guild and the Gemmological Association of Australia. The JAA booth was separate and adjacent to the main entrance. At the end of day one, I realised that industry politics is alive and well in Australia and not just unique to New Zealand. The Fair itself, with approximately 240 exhibitors, is very professionally organised and run with excellent service facilities. Many of the suppliers go to extreme lengths to build the most impressive displays but there are also those at the lower end of the market with basic booth and table displays. It is not just a jewellery show but a good mix of service providers as well as fashion shows and seminars. All in all, whether you are in a buying group or not, it is a onestop-shop for all within the many sectors of the industry. So in terms of what JANZ and I gained from the visit it is fair to say that I can count the number of Kiwis that

visited the JANZ stand on two hands. The real benefit came in talking with other trade associations, Australian suppliers and retailers, and buying groups which has provided new and valuable links, opportunities and information that we can build on for the benefit of the New Zealand jewellery industry at large. On the final day of the Fair it was announced that the JAA had signed a new five year agreement with Expertise Events. The funding from this arrangement is significant and JAA has announced some of this money will be used to fund new JAA initiatives for the industry including an enquiry into the apprenticeship and sales training schemes currently offered to the jewellery industry throughout Australia. I also found out there is a Jewellers Trade magazine that is independent of any buying groups, associations or lobby groups. There is also a national body for the industry called the Australian Jewellery and Gemstone Industry Council (AJGIC) which meets twice per year and is primarily a lobby group. Since returning to New Zealand, it has been announced that there is to be a jewellery fair run in competition with the Sydney JAA Fair in 2012. What this trip has really achieved for me is a reinforcement that we are on the right track in the decisions to date made unanimously by the JANZ executive that we work towards the establishment of a non-incorporated national body for the whole industry and all New Zealand jewellery associations. We need to continue to work toward the establishment of a trade fair in New Zealand which is open to all jewellery associations. I like the idea of all New Zealand jewellery associations having a booth in a professional services area at a trade fair. These things will take time but ultimately I can see we will end up with a New Zealand solution that will unite the industry.


Time’s Up for Tiffany and Swatch

The Swatch Group Ltd announced in September that it is terminating its contracts with Tiffany & Co. - and the split looks to be far from agreeable. Both sides have claimed that the other failed to live up to the terms of the partnership deal established in 2008, which was to be responsible for the development and production of Tiffany & Co. branded watches. Swatch released a statement revealing their action is due to Tiffany & Co.’s “systematic efforts to block and delay development of the business.” But Tiffany fired back just a few hours later insisting “Tiffany has honoured its obligations under the agreement and insists that Swatch honour its own obligations, particularly its obligation to respect Tiffany’s rights regarding brand-management and product design”. The partnership, which according to news reports, aimed for $500 million in sales in the medium term, will have two years to wind down its business. Swatch Group will press claims for damages against Tiffany & Co. in compensation for the loss of planned long-term future business. Some commentators feel the relationship was doomed from the start as Swatch has traditionally aimed for an upper-mid tier distribution while Tiffany & Co. view their brand as highend luxury. Arbitration is pending in the case.

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11/09/2011 10:28:17 PM


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Advertising Feature

Beauty Rich and Rare The JAA International Jewellery Fair 2011 saw the launch of Pretty Pink, a new and refreshing range of jewellery ready to entice customers through retailers’ doors with a piece of Australia this Christmas.

With Australia suppling over 90% of pink diamonds in the world, it was only right that Australia produced an affordable range of jewellery at some stage and show the world the best Australia has to offer. Pretty Pink is set to hit the world jewellery market with the signature of the Aus­tralian pinks - a most desirable diamond that every girl dreams of owning. Now this rare beauty has been set in contemporary designs at an affordable price, bringing that dream closer to a reality. A consistent rise in the price of gold has led silver to be more accepted, and although much admired, the cost of pink diamonds was seen by many consumers to be prohibitive; but incorporating pink diamonds, rose gold and sterling silver this range of exquisite jewellery is definitely a more realistic purchase.

Pretty Pink has been in the making for the past 18 months and is designed in Australia. The range of natural pink diamond jewels are now available with a full package for retailers including display stands, boxes and authenticity cards. Pretty Pink is surging forward into the jewellery market with the words quality and detail firmly imprinted in their business philosophy. The range includes heart shaped drop earrings, leaf bracelet and bezel-set studs which are proving to be popular choices, as the designs cater for all across the board. An elegant solitaire ring and crossover design ring with two pink diamonds bezel-set in rose gold complete the first set. Pretty Pink will be expanding the range in the early months of 2012. Although only currently available in Australia, Pretty Pink has contacts to expand overseas. The US and UK are next on the list.


October 2011 - jewellers trade

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jewellers trade - October 2011

Where Time Becomes an Art By Sharm Aboosally

A third-generation family business which has its roots in Alexandria, Egypt in 1940, is now expanding its watch and clock range into Perth, a city a whole ocean and almost a world away. Zag Watches is a watch retailer and wholesaler based in Perth – and its owner, Dr Hessan Zaghloul, is a member of this Egyptian family, who specialised in watches and clocks. The family remains active in the business in Egypt – a brother owns and operates six stores in Alexandra, a city of 5 million people, and is one of the largest chains in that area. Dr Zaghloul is a structural engineer who has practised engineering in Australia, Canada, Singapore, Qatar and Egypt and who has found his way, years later, back into the family business.

Zag Watches retails and wholesales CASIO G Shock, Baby G and Edifice and a unique range of wall and desk clocks. In addition, Zag Watches has recently launched a new brand called Zerone, which is designed by Japanese artists and manufactured in Japan, with a high degree of quality and reliability. All watches come with a two-year warranty and are aimed at Generation X and Y. Zag Watches is the exclusive distributor of Zerone watches in Australia and New Zealand. Zag Watches will be sold from kiosks in large shopping malls – the first store will be in Carousel Westfield right across from the Myers entrance, said Dr Zaghloul. The chain targets Generation X and Y customers, he said. “Our products are carefully selected using our experience from around the world to provide Australian shoppers with the most unique, elegant and reasonably priced items in watch fashion. We import watch and clock models that are not distributed in Australia – they are unique and reflect the best selling models around the world.” Through its deep connections in the trade, the company has strong links with wholesalers and can source the most successful products from a large number of countries, he said. “We offer unique products that no other retailers have access to.” The company does not advertise but rather the marketing strategy is to place Zerone in as many outlets as possible and allow the look and design to market itself. “We have tried selling Zerone in our city store and it is by far the best selling watch. I feel the market has been waiting for some thing fresh and exciting like Zerone,” Dr Zaghloul said. Commenting on the retail market in Perth, Dr Zaghloul says that while everyone believes the retail market is stagnant his view is that it’s because prices are high and there is not a lot of variety in design in the market. “Customers see the same thing all over town, from one shopping centre to the next. The market is tired of seeing the same thing - hence, my approach is to expose consumers to a new range at reasonable prices and they will buy. We have tested this theory in our city store and it works. When we introduced Zerone, it was clear that the market is looking for something unique at a good price.”


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jewellers trade - October 2011

AJSA Awards The AJSA Awards on Sunday 28th August at the Loft Rooms in Darling Harbour saw the delight of the winners receiving their prizes of $1000 (donated by The Palloy’s Group), medal and certificate. The competition was close with only six points separating the first and last place for the overall winner’s trophy and a trip to the Hong Kong fair in March 2012 donated by Leading Edge, Euromounts, O’Neils Affiliated and Devino. Thanks must also go to Sherman Opals, Omnia Diamonds and Q Report for their generosity in supporting the awards. With a tear in her eye Ella was shocked to find that she had won the overall competition. It was a delight to see the enthusiasm of our up-and-coming designers who said “we love the competitions and do all we can to get involved - even if it costs us money”.

Top right: Overall winner Ella Van Baalen. Below: An estatic Kirrilly Halvorsen won the Gem category, presented by Brendan McCreesh of O’Neils Affiliated and Jeremy Keight of jewellers trade.

Right middle: David Marshall winning the Pearl category. Bottom: Braydon Mosk winning the Opal and Gold categories pictured with Peter Keep of Central TAFE WA (Recently appointed JAA board member) and Jeremy Keight of jewellers trade.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

The

Battle over Bridal Bling If you’ve spent any time online in the jewellery world recently you can’t help but have noticed two major campaigns vying for your attention. The first to kick off was Palladium Alliance International’s “Tough. Sexy. Sensitive.” campaign. Enlisting the help of celebrities Pamela Anderson, Rose McGowan and Kelly Osbourne palladium now has its own Facebook page with the droll title ‘I’m so over heavy metal.’

research shows men ‘settling’ for tungsten, while their brides choose a ring of gold. “Tungsten is the leader in contemporary metals, and our strongest competition is the ignorance we’ve created. The enemy is apathy, and not knowing the story of gold and its history. Roman bands have been discovered that are over 2,000 years old; we have under-marketed a fantastic story: the notion of gold as the ultimate high-performance metal. We need to restore the voice of the meaning of gold, and not just be focused on the price,” says Lamb.

Promising that palladium will help release your inner diva, the PAI’s focus seems to be on the popularity of the metal amongst the glitterati. As they say on their website, “Palladium is all the rage. It is strutted down the red carpet at celebrity galas. It is chatted about on your favourite TV shows. It is raved about in your favourite magazines and gossiped about in blogs.”

Meanwhile, a UK study conducted by insurance firm LV has found that British men are cutting back on what they spend on an engagement ring. Traditionally, an engagement ring has cost approximately three months’ salary, but now many grooms-to-be are devoting only three weeks’ income to the crucial purchase.

In contrast, the World Gold Council’s latest campaign is designed to support gold in bridal jewellery and their focus is on the permanency and the symbolic significance of gold. The campaign features a series of amusing ads with text like ‘Convincing your bridesmaids they’ll be able to wear the dress again makes it a wedding. Gold makes it a marriage.” David Lamb, managing director of jewellery for the World Gold Council, admits that the GFC has had a big effect on bridal gold. However, he believes that retailers need to join the WGC in the fight to convince consumers that gold represents value over a lifetime. “The one thing the recession has done is to make people question their priorities. The cost of gold is challenging but wedding rings are a symbol of the importance of the marriage,” he says. In the bridal category, much ground has been lost to contemporary metals like tungsten and palladium, particularly in men’s bands. David Lamb thinks the

Given the worldwide effects of the GFC, this is a trend that is likely to be repeated here in Australia, and one that retailers have probably already observed. It’s not surprising that couples are tightening their belts in these tough economic times. At the same time, a US study by TheKnot.com reveals that the most popular wedding band metal is white gold (70% for brides, 34% for grooms), with 27% of grooms choosing tungsten and 13% choosing titanium.

David Lamb of the WGC getting heavy with contemporary metals.

Lastly, brides aren’t the only ones with engagement rings nowadays. Five percent of grooms now wear “man-gagement” rings.


Phone: (03) 9500 2777 Fax: (03) 9500 2788 email: sales@amimports.com


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Selling the

Hardest Substance With the holiday season approaching, jewellers need to play the diamond card to win.

One thing the online mega-store Amazon is good for is revealing the top-selling trends in products across the board, and with Christmas coming up it’s clear the big items are still iPads, entertainment consoles, GPS gadgets and big screen TVs. Even in these times of recession, the holiday season encourages some big luxury spending, however spending on jewellery is often eclipsed by other luxury goods such as electronics, designer footwear and handbags. As retailers, jewellers need to work on positive marketing messages to help bring the luxury status of jewellery back to the front of consumer’s minds this Christmas. Despite the popularity of big ticket electronic goods few products can match luxury jewellery, and diamonds in particular, for status and desirability. Diamonds are the jewellery industry’s strongest contenders against competition products, yet all too often jewellers struggle to get the cashed-up crowds through their doors during the holiday season. The electronics industry has no such trouble. Their massive marketing campaigns continually push the benefit, the convenience, the ‘coolness’ their devices bring to their customer’s lives. But jewellers are a little less vocal, concentrating on the emotional reasons for buying a glittering rock, and that can often be a much harder sell.

Sweet Spots

There are generally five big sweets spots when it comes to emotional justification for a luxury jewellery purchase, and your sales staff should be able to help your customers hit them. Keep them in mind: Status – shows off success, power, style, taste. Celebrate or confirm a relationship – displays the bond between a couple, feels romantic. Glamour – makes him or her feel attractive, gets attention and turns heads. Splurge – self reward, marks an accomplishment. Be the Hero – his chance to be romantic and demonstrate his love.

Value

But another big part of the equation, especially at this time of the year, is the concept of value. Quite often, a consumer will see value in electronic products simply because their marketing is so effective. It’s a form of brainwashing. We think, ‘I know she doesn’t have one...’ and often that’s reason enough to make the purchase. Rarely does the gift-giver stop to wonder that maybe she doesn’t have one because she doesn’t want one, because she’s got enough gadgets, because she couldn’t be bothered learning how to use it. We see the ‘value’ in a camera – do we see the same value in a diamond? Top: TWM - Middle: A Weiner & Company - Lower: Vina


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jewellers trade - October 2011

...Selling the Hardest Substance

Be careful not to assume the value in fine jewellery is merely in its price-tag. There is an art to convincing the consumer that the value of the piece is greater than just that. Consider some interesting research that shows people feel the need to display success via luxury goods, but at the same time different factors in our society or our economy make it uncomfortable for us to revel our status symbols without justifying them with a kind of functionality. How often have you heard comments like ‘I bought my Louis Vuitton bag because it wears better. We needed a plasma TV because of its better picture quality. We chose the BMW because of its safety features. I had to get this Armani suit because I’m so hard to fit.” The ‘functional’ attributes of diamond jewellery – the quality of the diamonds, the craftsmanship in the unique design, the longevity of the product – should always be pointed out to the customer. Combine that pitch with the relevant emotional triggers and a sale is very likely.

Looking Unique

Individuality is a another key factor that fine jewellery can provide that electronics cannot. The holiday season is a time when everything can start looking the same to a stressed out and emotionally exhausted Christmas-shopper fighting her way through the mall. Customised jewellery is the perfect answer for someone who really wants to find something unique. And on the subject of uniqueness, many consumers complain that jewellery stores look numbingly similar, and the merchandise seems to be the same from store to store. With both consumers and shopowners facing tough financial times, many retailers choose to play it safe promoting traditional items and sticking with ranges with proven

track records. It’s a good strategy for ensuring you’re not left with unsold stock after the holiday season, but it may not generate the excitement you want to see in your store at Christmas time. This might be the time to consider pushing some niche categories in your store – men’s diamond jewellery, contemporary metals, diamonds on watches. Diamonds may be the hardest substance in the world, but convincing the customer of their value shouldn’t be so tough. Parting your clients from their discretionary dollars this season will be best achieved by convincing them that diamonds are a gift that not only has lasting value, but emotional and sentimental value like none other.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Season of Silver With the price of gold slowing down gold sales in jewellery stores across the world, silver has forged ahead as a stylish best seller with new designs, new lines and super sales.

The Silver Promotion Service (SPS) is loving the change and the company’s director, Michael Barlerin is looking forward to a silvery Christmas. “Based on the sales results I’ve seen throughout the year, I’d call holiday 2011 the season of silver,” Barlerin said. “It continues to be the fastest growing merchandise category, and continues to give retailers the best maintained margins.” The SPS offers some excellent advice to retailers on how to carry the silver buying trend through to the Christmas period. Maximising silver sales over the holiday season will make everyone jolly.

Get Aggressive

Retailers should merchandise silver more aggressively by carrying large assortments of silver jewellery. “Shoppers know that certain retailers are carrying plenty of diamonds, watches and gold, but they may not know about an assortment of silver that store may have,” Barlerin said. “Communicating to customers that they are a silver retailer is a very good starting point.”

High End and Budget

Be sure to offer an array of price points for silver jewellery. Silver is no longer being seen as the cheap option compared to gold. Consumers are more than happy to pay top dollar for fine silver jewellery – a trend we would never have seen a decade ago. “One of the things happening in the market is a breadth of price points that are increasingly being sold,” Barlerin said. “Merchandising with an array of prices would be very important for a silver retailer, as higher price points are doing well.”

Add Gems

A silver showcase should include a selection of gem-set sterling silver and silver with treated finishes as well as plain silver designs. Designers have

certainly taken the opportunity to push silver design to new levels, and consumers may not be aware of the stunning pieces being created with silver these days. Be sure to educate them! “One of the things making silver so buoyant right now is the diversity of the looks,” Barlerin said, “so retailers should be capturing the fact that silver jewellery is available now, not just in exquisitely designed plain silver, but with colored stoned and treated finishes.”

Show It Off

It makes things very easy for jewellers that silver is a traditional ‘Christmas colour’. Overhauling the shop window display is very important at this time of year, so take the time to show off your silver range. “Silver lends itself to a themed window better than other merchandising classifications,” Barlerin said. “If it’s the season of silver, a great window display with good silver jewellery product and silver ornaments or bowls will look good.”

Silver Signs

Continue educating and informing your customers inside the shop with increased signage. Most customers will be eager to learn about the changes that have taken place in the silver world. Remember, a great deal of the cachet with a new jewellery purchase is telling your friends all about it. Silver carries prestige these days. Give your customers the tools to wear it well. Overall, the SPS believes we can all look forward to the results of a special year for silver, which will build the foundation for continued growth in 2012. “The surge in silver sales is not just linked to the gold price,” says Barlerin. “There’s been a seat change in the role that silver plays.”


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Tipping in

New York

Michael Rees visits the Big Apple and survives the NY jewellery hub - and the cab drivers!

New York has a vibrant jewellery, gold and diamond industry - the hub is located on the block of West 47th between Fifth Avenue and Avenue of the Americas in Midtown Manhattan. There are mini-malls with jewellers occupying stalls. There are also plenty of hawkers keeping a watchful eye out for potential customers to herd into their employer’s shops. Some walk around with signs around their necks: ‘We buy gold’. Some get about $100 a day for touting the wares of their jewellers. This industry is a big earner with an estimated US$24b exchanged each year. The American economy isn’t setting the world on fire right now and many people living in the ‘burbs’ are making the trip into the big smoke to sell off the family jewellery, particularly gold with the price going through the roof. It seems odd that this type of business is going on just a hop, step and a jump from prestige establishments like De-Beers, Christies and Bloomberg but that is New York - just about anything to turn a buck. This attitude can be seen just about anywhere. The storm clouds were building and as the first drop of rain started to fall there were many hustlers out selling umbrellas for $5.00 a pop. Where so many people got so many umbrellas from in such a short time, who knows? But by the time the heavens opened up they were doing a brisk business.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

But there are more types of gold in New York than umbrellas and jewellery. Yellow colored cabs are a delight. They are everywhere and eager to get your business. When you get in one hold onto your hat because these blokes go about one million miles an hour and hardly any of them speak English. Tipping is the name of the trade and they let you know if they think the tip is not big enough. Some are not shy about taking you for a ‘ride’. On a recent trip to the Big Apple I had a couple of experiences with taxi drivers and tipping. The spouse and I wanted to go from uptown New York to China Town. We got in a cab and asked to be taken to this well known area of the city. The taxi driver didn’t seem too happy for some reason and drove around for about five minutes and then announced in broken English, ‘Chinatown’. Not knowing any better we got out and even tipped this bloke. Much to our surprise we didn’t see any restaurants, no Chinese lingo, no dead ducks hanging upside down or any of that other stuff. The cab driver dumped us and we tipped him but the best was yet to come. On eventually getting to the Hop Kee in Mott Street we enjoyed an average meal and when we went to pay with the reliable credit card we were told that it was a cash only establishment. We started emptying pockets and turning purses upside down but we came up $8.00 short. I asked the savvy maître d’ where I could find the nearest ATM and he pointed me down the road. We could have taken off and forgot about the $8.00 which is exactly what he thought we would do. But no, we returned and I handed over a $20.00 note. I waited and waited and waited for the change. But alas no change. I asked him for the $12.00 and

he just replied, ‘Tip.’ I don’t know what I tipped him for but that was the end of that. I spoke to one tourist who told me that he kept his restaurant dining down to a bare minimum because he found the whole experience of tipping far too stressful. Another lady told me she would rather walk 15 blocks than get a cab and have to worry about tipping. So there you have it, a city that deals in billions of dollars in big business but the thought of tipping a few dollars is too stressful for many tourists. If you are going to New York spend a lot of time in Central Park - it is the best place in the joint and nobody asks for a tip, not even the hot dog sellers.


Weighty men’s jewellery in 9ct gold and sterling silver.

D J D DESIGN

PO Box 975 Springwood Qld 4127 Phone: 07 3208 3566 Mobile: 0410 473 250 Email: jon.mack@optusnet.net.au We b : w w w. d o u b l e j d e s i g n . c o


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Be Luscious By Sharm Aboosally

A new silver jewellery range, Starborn Creations, with handcrafted, unique silver jewellery set with natural gemstones with designs inspired by nature was launched at the Reed Gift Fairs Melbourne in August by B Luscious. The collection is set with gemstones such as moldavite, druzy, laimar, amber, meteorites and aquamarine. Silver jewellery sold by the company includes sterling silver jewellery in rings, earrings, bracelets, neck pieces and pendants ranging in wholesale prices from $15 to over $1,000 as well as 14-carat gold jewellery. The company has a wide array of stock including children’s jewellery, charms, gemstone jewellery, beads and men’s jewellery and accessories in 14-carat gold jewellery as well as sterling silver. Brands carried include MiB which is silver and diamond clip-on charms; and Silverado, which is a range of 14-carat gold and sterling silver charms featuring Murano glass and gemstones. Another range is the Story Tales which is with sterling silver and gemstones. At Reed Gift Fairs Melbourne in August, the company said that buyers were cautious but at the same time, looking for new products to the ranges they have in stock. The buyers said that consumers were looking for good quality items that are different to the large volumes of mass produced jewellery which is found online and in chain stores. In the remainder of 2011, the company will exhibit at the Sydney Mind Body and Spirit and the Melbourne Mind Body and Spirit Festivals.

B-Luscious 13 Riverside Dr Riverside NSW 2444 Phone: 02 6584 4520 Mobile: 0419 416 424


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Order of Australia Awarded to an Industry Gem Sheila Catterall, President of the NSW branch of the Gemmological Association of Australia, was presented with an Order of Australia Medal (OAM) by Governor Marie Bashir during an elegant function at Government House in September. The award, part of the Queen’s Birthday Honours List announced by the Governor-General Quentin Bryce in June, recognises Sheila’s services to the Jewish community, particularly in the areas of education and charity, and to the GAA. Sheila is “equally proud as both are my passions” and thought the event was “very exciting”. “I was just overcome because it was such a beautiful ceremony,” she said. However, it was long-awaited. Sheila was notified of the honour in March, “but I wasn’t allowed to tell anybody”. Sheila pictured at Government House with her proud daughters.


Elegant Individualism By Cheryl Harty French born designer Francoise Esterhazy has found inspiration on her travels to Nepal and India for her distinctive neck jewellery collection. Francoise Esterhazy began designing womenswear in 1984 and travels to India four times a year to do her sampling, sourcing of fabrics and to check sampling and production.   She began to create some jewellery pieces for herself and later, took embellishment one step further and started to design pieces to compliment her womenswear collection.

“I designed some jewellery at the beginning for myself and very quickly I started to design pieces to compliment my collection. For 13 years I lived in Nepal, India and the Himalayan region and collected antique tribal jewellery as well as antique textiles – it was a big source of inspiration for my garments and the jewellery,” she explained. Ms Esterhazy started to add jewellery to her collection of day and evening wear 12 years ago and in 2007, turned her design focus to the creation of interesting necklaces.   “The latest collection is quite bold and instead of having embroidery on the garment, I thought an intricate necklace would be all you would need to go with a very simple sheaf or even a smart T shirt. I like to wear these garments in a relaxed way ... a nice pair of jeans, a plain shirt, for instance. A statement neck piece can really add an interesting touch.  

“It was the way I was wearing this neck piece in the south of France in July that prompted quite a few ladies asked me where I found this ‘incredible piece.’ I was very proud to answer they are available in Australia!”   The designer works around the philosophy of elegant individualism when it comes to clothing and jewellery and recently moved from Sydney to Queensland, where she has a store based in Clear Waters.   She chooses jewellery to match her entire collection and will hand pick beads and gems to create individual pieces of jewellery whose colours compliment the exact tone and style of the garments.   Stones, metals, shells, and other materials for the statement neckpieces are sourced in India and Thailand. The pieces are then assembled in a small workshop in Thailand. Ms Esterhazy describes her customers as 30+. discerning women who like to be different. She has discovered that a story attached to the piece is always appreciated by the customer.   “A few years back, I had some quite big necklaces with silver pieces I found in the desert of Rajashtan, and some Turkhoman pieces as well that I mixed with semi precious stones. Every piece was strikingly different.”  The latest Francois Esterhazy neckpiece collection is comprised of mostly crystal,

fresh water pearls and agate. No silver or gold is used in these pieces as it is a fashion jewellery range, Ms Esterhazy pointed out.   “Every piece is unique. We can reproduce the same look and repeat them in bigger quantities, but with a slight difference according to the stones we find. It is what I like to do with the clothing collection - customers like the idea they are getting a unique piece.”   Myriad colour tones appear in the neck jewellery, many which have been provided by nature. One of the pieces presents as a waterfall of stones with crystal and agate in different shade of green and brown. Another is comprised of different sized fresh water pearls in a soft pink/beige tones.   “A most amazing piece is all in crystal silver grey with flowers in agate highlighted with zircon. The wholesale price is between $290 to $660,” she said. “I also do some different ones out of jaipur in silver gold plating with semi precious stones. At the moment I do not have a big collection of these....maybe next time.” ”My customers of many years expect something unusual from me, either in clothing or jewellery. I have been doing large pieces of jewellery for a long time and I think statement pieces will always be there. They will be always in demand by women who love something different. If there is a story attached to the piece it is even better as you feel special to have such a unique piece,” she said.   www.francoisesterhazy.com.au   ph +617 5575 3338 francoise@francoiseesterhazy.com.au


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Press Release - Expertise Events

20th Sydney Fair 20th JAA International Jewellery Fair proves to be the perfect place to sell, meet and network all things jewellery.

From humble beginnings in 1992 to the three hall spectacle today, the JAA International Jewellery Fair this year celebrated 20 years of unparalleled excellence serving the needs of the jewellery industry. The industry again entered the Fair with optimism. While the feedback varied with each exhibitor - on the whole, reports were positive with many expecting follow-up business over the coming weeks to be quite strong. Gary Fitz-Roy, Managing Director of Fair organiser Expertise Events said “We are very pleased with the support the Fair received from the industry, as we know both exhibitors and visitors alike are facing many challenges at present. The degree of optimism evident on the Fair floor is a testament to the resilience of the industry as a whole.” Comments from exhibitors on their results at the fair were positive; “The team at Pretty Pink Jewellery were very pleased with their first Jewellery Trade Fair and the response from the retailers. We are looking forward to the future and working together to succeed with our new product.” Antonio Kelzi, Pretty Pink Jewellery. “We had a very positive “vibe” before the fair within our team and an excitement for our new position and what we have achieved after 10 years in Australia. After a slow start on Sunday we achieved what we aimed for so the end result was great! “ Heidi Plentinger, Mark Milton Australia/New Zealand. “Great event and very well organised. It was encouraging to see a high degree of optimism amongst the majority of business owners.” Alex Bonnet, Stones and Silver. “Overall on our part we believe it has been the most successful fair in the last 3 years! We look forward to participating again next year.” Vina Lambert, Vina Jewellery. “Thank you for an excellent trade Fair” Karin Adcock, Pandora A touch of glamour and live interaction was introduced to the Fair with the Collection Preview Live fashion parades. Many visitors commented positively that seeing the exhibitors’ products on live models gave a new dimension to their perspective on the products and it was an excellent chance

to see jewellery in a new way to assist them with the buying decision process. A highlight in the finale at selected parades was the inclusion of Nationwide’s Tolkowsky tiara. Some of the exhibitors participating in Collection Preview Live commented; “The new initiative of the Collection Preview Live, showcased some of our new products, and increased the number of visitors to our stand. Overall a successful Fair.” Arthur Pike, Cashelle Fine Jewellery. “Once again, Expertise Events put on a great show this year. It was exciting to be part of the new fashion parade and I’m sure this concept will grow in popularity in the coming years. Despite the economic conditions we found our surrounding exhibitors, like us, were upbeat and positive about the future of the industry and this was reflected in the quality of retailers interested in our products. “ Adam Simpson, Uberkate. “The introduction of the fashion parade is great new feature and one that we will again make use of at the next fair. Overall we felt a great vibe throughout the fair and upbeat attitude from suppliers and retailers alike…” Helen Hagerty, Tuskc. Expertise Events and Peter W Beck joined forces to conduct a $20,000 product giveaway to celebrate the 20th year of the Fair. The package of Peter W Beck merchandise was won by Ridge Jewellers in Springwood Queensland. Visitors and exhibitors were treated to free hot chocolate with marshmallow chocolate paddle sticks and cupcakes. This was just a little way for Expertise Events to thank visitors and exhibitors for supporting the Fair. The registration experience was streamlined for visitors to the Fair with colour-coded lanes providing streamlined access to the Fair floor.


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jewellers trade - October 2011

Relaxing... Most people have got a few plastic stacker chairs at their place. You know, the plastic ones that have the little splits in the seat. What you probably don’t realise is that when you sit on them, those splits open up, cos that’s happenin’ underneath ya bum and you don’t see, and when you stand up they close up again. But they can be a bit tricky those chairs. And I’ve written this poem about a person who got into a bit of strife with a plastic stacker chair and I’ve called the poem ‘Entrapment’. And the expanded title is ‘The Terrifying But Tragically True Tale Of Trevor’s Trapped Testicle’.

Trevor’s on a mission, to Consumer Affairs, Trying to get a total ban on plastic stacker chairs. He reckons that they’re dangerous, a serious threat to life. Cos it was through a plastic chair that he got into strife. It was at the Tamworth Festival, a concert in the park, Trev and Ken were there with gear to last them until dark. An esky full of coldies, Trev was without a care, Stubbies, thongs and T-shirt, on his plastic stacker chair.

But as he stretched his legs out, his left crown jewel rolled free, And dropped straight through the chair seat, a real catastrophe. But Trevor remained unaware of his dire situation, Until they gave the singer a big standing ovation. As Trevor came up to his feet he gave a fearsome yell, Cos tethered to his testicle, the chair came up as well. He grabbed the chair with both hands as they crashed back to the ground, But the errant family jewel was firmly stuck, he quickly found. He tried to extract the enclosed clod, but he began to curse, Cos nothing he did seemed to work, it only made things worse. Trev’s mate Ken was laughing, fit to go right off his brain, Ken’s tears were from laughter but Trevor’s were from pain. Ken produced a Stanley knife, and Trevor’s mouth went dry, He said, “I’ll only cut the chair,” but Trevor wouldn’t let him try. Well, Ken climbed under and tried to poke things through, It’s times like this you find out what ya mates will really do. They pulled and poked and prodded, but all efforts were in vain, Trevor’s nut was red and raw, and giving heaps of pain. All this unwanted attention was no good you realise, Trevor’s tortured testicle swelled up to twice it’s size. Well, the word spread quickly through the park about the situation, And people tried to get a glimpse of Trevor’s threatened castration. Mums and Dads and kids and dogs, of every shape and age, Trev got more attention then the singer on the stage. Little kids were pointing, dogs were trying to have a smell, and Trevor, trying to cover up, said, “Go get bloody help!” “Poor bloke needs an icepack,” was the only good advice, They sat Trev over his esky with his agate in the ice. Someone called an ambulance, and they drove through the crowd, Trev was drinking Bundy Rum and swearing very loud. When they both stopped laughing, they carted Trev away, To the hospital where he became the highlight of the day. But Trevor’s near recovered, with both crown jewels in place, Don’t offer him a plastic chair if you value your face. But next year at the carnival, Trevor will be there, Wearing tight undies, long trousers, on his canvas fold-out chair. By Bill Kearns


Diary OCTOBER October 4-8 MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show Sharjah Expo Centre, Sharjah, United Arab Emirates www.mideastjewellery.com October 7-10 Malaysia Jewelry Festival Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC), Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.mij.com October 13-16 Istanbul Jewelry Show October   Istanbul Fair Center(CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.rotaforte.com October 14-16 Calgary Gem & Mineral Show Calgary Chinese Cultural Centre, Calgary, Alberta, Canada calgarygemshow.com October 14-16 Jewellery Industry Tradeshow of India Chennai Trade & Convention Centre, Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India October 14-23 Singapore JewelFest Ngee Ann City Civic Plaza, Singapore www.singaporejewelfest.com October 17-21 Abu Dhabi International Jewellery & Watch Show Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates www.jewellery.reedexpo.com October 23-25 JA New York Special Delivery Show Jacob K Javits Convention Center New York, United States www.ja-newyork.com

October 30-1 November JA Chicago Special Delivery Show McCormick Place Chicago, United States www.ja-newyork.com

NOVEMBER    November 3-6 International Jewellery & Watch Vietnam Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam www.vietnamjeweleryshow.com   November 10-13 International Exhibition of Jewellery & Watch ‘Sjaj’ Novi Sad, Serbia www.sajam.net   November 16-19 Jewellery Expo Kyiv, Ukraine www.jeweleryexpo.kiev.ua   November 22-26 International Jewellery and Watch Show Abu Dhabi, UAE www.reedexpo.com   November 22-26 Jewellery Arabia Manama, Bahrain www.jewelleryarabia.com   November 24-27 JMA Hong Kong Hong Kong, China www.jewelleryshows.org   November 26-27 Gemmins Athens, Greece www.jewelleryshows.org


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Jewellers Trade - 10 October 2011