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November 2011

DSM (P acific) Pty . Ltd. Suite 909-910, Trust Building, 155, King Street, Sydney, NSW 2000. Australia.

Tel.: (61-2) 9232 1410/1415 Fax: (61-2) 9232 1412 Email: W ebsite: www


jewellers trade - November 2011

inside... regulars COVER:

Hamilton Hall jewellers trade magazine ABN: 41 143 385 895 PO Box 69, Camden NSW 2570 Tel: 0431 844 903 Fax: (02) 8078 4722 Subscription enquires: Enquires: Web: Managing Director Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903 Editor Jo Thompson 0408 468 512 Contributing Writers Sharm Aboosally Cheryl Harty Elizabeth Hoy Michael Rees

News 6 DDCA News 14 Tools of the Trade 18 Rocking with MIE 20 John’s Watch 26 On the Road 28 NZ News 46

30 14


features Christmas Predictions 12 Gold in the Arab Spring 16 Profile : Urban Steel 30 Jewels of the Orient 34 Curse of the Purple Sapphire 38 Wonderful Windows 40 Tourism and Jewellery 42 Profile: Inspired by Nature 50 The Cup 56

50 28

Art Advertising Sales Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903

DISCLAIMER: This publication may not be reproduced in whole or part without the written permission of the Publisher. Articles express the opinions of the authors and are not necessarily those of the Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or service in this magazine does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. All information is copyright.

Christmas is drawing ever closer. The shops are already filled with glitter and sparkle - mercifully, no carols playing yet! Hopefully, many of you are starting to see some Christmas sales as people get into their present-buying early. Perhaps here in Australia the lead up to Christmas is a little too long. In the States, they still have Halloween and Thanksgiving, not to mention Black Friday and Cyber Monday, to gear up for first. Does our long lead up to Christmas result in more sales, or a bit of consumer fatigue? I’d be interested in your thoughts. Meanwhile, we’re happy to welcome a load of New Zealand readers to our pages. It’s been a busy month at Jewellers Trade as both our subscription list has swelled and we’ve seen an increase in the number of advertisers who are keen to develop relationships with customers on both sides of the ditch. By the time this reaches your hands the Melbourne Cup will probably be over for another year. Were you lucky? It’s the race that stops not one nation but two, as New Zealand culture has embraced the great race with as much affection as Australians. And no wonder. Of the last 50 Melbourne Cup races over half of them were won by New Zealand-bred horses. This month we’ve taken a quick look at the history of the Melbourne Cup trophy itself. There’s a lot of gold in this year’s cup! Always keen to hear from you -

Silver Design

Breuning Jewellery Australia OSJAG PTY LTD po box 4420 north rocks nsw 2151 | phone: 612 9630 6619 | fax: 612 9630 6679 | e-mail:


jewellers trade - November 2011

News Awesome Argyle

Michael Hill’s 3Q Sales Up 7%

Two WA children had the opportunity to visit the Argyle diamond mine in the Kimberley as part of the Perth-based Channel 7 Little Telethon Stars program which raises money for children’s health charities.

Michael Hill reported that total global sales rose 6.5 percent year on year to $80.77 million during the three months that ended September 30, 2011.

This year’s Little Telethon Stars, Kununurra girl Savanna Addis, 10, and Perth boy Ben Popham 11, visited the remote Rio Tinto mine, 170km south of Kununurra, to see firsthand the source of gems to be used in a piece of jewellery the pair have designed for the annual charity event.

Sales in Australia, which is the retailer’s largest market, increased 7.2 percent to $54.8 million (NZD 68.75 million), while sales in New Zealand grew 1 percent to $20.93 million (NZD 16.69 million).

Perth jeweller Solid Gold used drawings by Ben and Savanna to create a piece which would be auctioned on the Telethon weekend of October 15-16. The pendant includes white, champagne and rare pink diamonds donated by the Argyle mine, along with yellow, white and rose gold.

Sales at Michael Hill’s Canada operations rose 11.3 percent to $7.52 million (NZD 9.43 million), and in the U.S., the smallest market for Michael Hill, sales rose 18.4  percent to $1.82 million (NZD 2.28 million).

Ben summed up his visit to the massive open pit mine with its 180 tonne-capacity trucks in typical boyish fashion. “It was awesome,” he said. The mine’s underground team raised $12,500 for the event.


Fantasy Collection

The Vault Jewellery Distributors Pty Ltd Ph 03 9526 8690



November 2011 - jewellers trade


jewellers trade - November 2011

News Paul McCartney ‘s Wedding Rings Former Beatle Sir Paul McCartney and his new bride Nancy Shevell gave each other Neil Lane wedding rings when they exchanged vows in front of a handful of family and friends at a short ceremony in London in October. The bride received a Neil Lane vintage-style diamond eternity band with 5 carats of square-cut diamonds set in platinum while McCartney, who is now married for the third time, was seen showing off a simple gold wedding band. McCartney’s thumbs up was important to celebrity jeweller Lane, who says, “Paul is an artist. When we worked on the engagement ring, he took it seriously and was into the stones, shapes and styles — like a kid in a candy store.”

Ambermart Amber tradeshow Ambermart which took place in Gdansk, Poland, drew nearly 3,000 visitors from 28 countries this year, with more than 133 Polish and international companies exhibiting their products. Exhibitors seemed optimistic about the fair with trade visitors from Asia forming the largest percentage of attendees, mainly those hailing from China and Korea. The fair also featured the amber laboratory, where visitors had their amber identified by experts from the International Amber Association, with the researchers of the Museum of the Earth of Polish Academy of Sciences and the Gdansk University of Technology.

Saint Mary MacKillop Pendants Since 1996 CHARMOUR has been producing Mary MacKillop pendants for The Sisters Of Saint Joseph, the order which Mary MacKillop founded in 1867. With her canonisation last year Saint Mary MacKillop became Australia’s first and only saint. Since then she has become an important part of Catholic life in this country. In celebration of Saint Mary MacKillop’s canonisation and in conjunction with The Sisters of Saint Joseph, CHARMOUR has created an exclusive collection of Saint Mary MacKillop Pendants designed to fill this brand new niche in religious pendants in Australia For more information on CHARMOUR’S Saint Mary MacKillop pendants please visit our website

Telephone +61 (0)3 5968 9855 web


jewellers trade - November 2011

News Wallis Simpson’s Costume Jewels A collection of costume jewellery designed by Alexis Kirk that once belonged to Wallis Simpson has sold at auction in London for thousands of pounds. Simpson was an infamous jewellery magpie and built up a collection of fine and fashion jewels. It seems her influence still holds sway in the auction room. Simpson was once famously quoted as saying: “I hate to admit it, but I am absolutely fascinated by fake jewellery at the moment. I think it is so good.” It was Kirk’s family who brought the five-piece collection to sale. The designer had bought back the pieces that he had designed for Simpson at a Sotheby’s sale in 1998 to keep in his private collection.

South Africa Breaks Marange Embargo According to an NGO active in the Kimberley Process, South Africa has been recently importing diamonds from the Marange region of Zimbabwe. Alan Martin of Partnership Africa Canada believes it’s “pretty clear that South Africa is taking in those diamonds.” The Kimberley Process has struggled for two years now to come to an agreement that would allow Marange stones to be exported. Most governments have agreed not to touch Marange stones until a consensus is reached. South Africa stands alone on this issue, but it’s not the first time the country has been accused of importing Marange diamonds. In June this year they faced similar allegations. Things continue to look dire for the future of the Kimberley Process.

November 2011 - jewellers trade

News World Gold Council Appoints New Regional Director for Japan On 3 October the World Gold Council appointed Takahiro Morita as Regional Director for Japan. Takahiro joined the World Gold Council in 2010 and has over 25 years of experience in financial markets most recently with Moody’s Investors Service in Japan as managing director and head of its corporate rating group. “Takahiro brings a wealth of experience and knowledge to the role and will be integral to developing our activities in Japan and informing the organisation’s strategy across the wider region,” said Albert Cheng, WGC managing director for the Far East, in a statement. Takahiro is replacing Jeff Toshima, who has been at the World Gold Council since 1985 and is retiring.

Sun Drop Diamond The world’s largest known pear-shaped yellow diamond goes up for auction at Sotheby’s Geneva on 15 November. With a purity of WS1, the 110.3 ct. rock was discovered in South Africa last year and was recently exhibited at London’s Natural History Museum after being cut and polished by Cora International. Expecting to collect a trifling $11million to $15million at auction next month, the stone is truly stunning.



jewellers trade - November 2011

Christmas Predictions

We asked our favourite designers and suppliers for their hot tips for Christmas. Here are some wonderful things to fill shop windows, and more importantly, Christmas stockings, this festive season.

After a very enthusiastic response from retailers, the Breuning “Silver Gold” collection is just hitting the shelves and just in time for Christmas. It is the tremendous acceptance by retailers that has encouraged Craig Symons from Osjag. “There is no doubt that the combination of gold and diamonds with silver is being seen as an answer to the high price of gold jewellery and we’re confident that consumers will vote with their wallets too!”.

Osjag - - 02 9630 6619 Color, style and inspiration … these gorgeous Disney Couture bangles are the perfect Christmas present. Designed by some of the world’s leading jewellery designers and made by Disney, these bangles are enscripted with some of Disney’s famous inspirational quotes such as ‘have faith in your dreams’ and ‘whistle while you work’. Each bangle retails for $60, together with a Disney Couture gift pouch and are featured in some of Australia’s most popular fashion magazines.

Disney Couture - au - 02 9687 6665

Disney Corporation and Ingersoll, the company that made the very first Mickey Mouse watch back in 1933, have partnered up again to bring back the magic of yesteryear. The original Ingersoll Mickey Mouse watch is back, produced in two collections, one being the very first four Mickey Mouse watches ever produced, faithfully reproduced in every detail, even the packaging. Recommended retail prices ranges from $79.00 to $99.00. What better Christmas present is there for your children or grand children - or perhaps you would like one just for you?

Ingersoll - - 1300 765 990

The Vina Jewellery brand is best known for its revolutionary designs which see a collaboration of cubic zirconia and white and grey pearl, black onyx and blue turquoise to create stunning jewellery. Vina’s Christmas predictions demonstrate their distinct style with each piece capturing the magic and enchantment of Christmas. This range is all about beauty and charm and is certain to be very popular this season.

Vina Jewellery - 02 9713 5486

The hottest selling items for Christmas at LiLaBeads are their new range of pendant charms. Introduced last month along with their ‘Celebration Charms’ these pendant charms are exclusive to LiLaBeads and enjoying huge interest. Pendant charms are slightly wider in diameter than beads and will fit most chains or leathers. LiLaBead’s Christmas Charms will be released in November. These are made from the Swarovski Zirconia, Swarovski Corundum and Alphinite. Christmas Charms retail from $60-$65. Pendant Charms retail from $43-$45 making them an affordable gift for Christmas.

LiLaBeads - - 0413 024 334

November 2011 - jewellers trade

Get set for a magical Christmas with this sterling silver and enamel owl brooch – hand set with Swarovski marcasite. The owl is a universal symbol of wisdom and a perfect companion for an owl enthusiast or Harry Potter fan! This is just one of the latest editions to the AM Imports marcasite collection which features a menagerie of gorgeous animal designs as well as the ever popular classics. Would you like something different to inspire your customers? – ask to become a stockist today.

AM Imports - - 03 9500 2777


Pearls - ‘Daughters Of the Sea’ - evoke desire and recall the birth of Aphrodite who sprang to life from the sea. Hamilton Hall have combined sterling silver with irregular natural pearls adding an ageless modern twist. Summer’s most exciting stand-alone accessory, their beautiful shephard’s hook earrings, suit young to old with no boundaries. Hamilton Hall offer display and packaging, the option to brand or not to brand, and no minimum orders.

Hamilton Hall - 07 3843 2444

At A. Wiener and Company, diamond stud earrings and matching solitaire pendants are strong sellers this Christmas season. The standard range includes round brilliant and princess cut diamonds in sizes from 2=0.10ct to 2=1.00ct in G-H SI3 and OW SI3 quality. Sizes ranging from 2=2.00ct to 2=5.00ct are also available in certified and non-certified round diamonds. Settings include claw & bezel, 9ct and 18ct, yellow and white gold. Stock is available for immediate delivery, or on order to replenish after Christmas sales.

A.Wiener and Company - www.wiener. - 1800 337 400

From the Bulova Amboise Collection: Featuring eight diamonds individually hand-set on a patterned white or black enamel dial, this captivating design defines modern sport/dress style (98P126). In stainless steel or black and white ceramic, with domed crystal, luminous hands, screw-back case, deployment buckle and water resistance to 30 metres. Or, the 98P125, fashionably oversized.

Time Essentials - - 1800 303 209



jewellers trade - November 2011


The Year That Flew By By Rami Baron

Were you the pilot?

How many times do you hear yourself saying this: ‘I can’t believe it’s already the end of the day. Where did the week go? Where did the year go?’

You notice that I pose the question were you the pilot? Did your business just plod along this year? Did you drive it? Did you set a goal at the start of the year? Did you achieve it? Do you set goals at all and do you commit them to paper?

Setting Goals Who keeps you honest, other than your creditors? I have a good friend who asks me around June what my target is for December. He goes quiet for a second then gets up out of his chair and writes the number down. He takes enormous pleasure every month reminding me of that number, and it puts a smile on my face when I am on target. So now I challenge you. It’s only a few months to the end of the year. Have you set your number, have you written it down and is everybody in your business acutely aware of the target? Think about it like this. People only watch sports because they want to see results. It doesn’t matter whether it’s football, cricket, rugby, soccer or darts. If there wasn’t a score no one would be watching. Each and every one of us needs goals. So the next question, assuming we have set them is, how do we achieve them? I was having a conversation with David Brown from the Edge Academy. He used a superb analogy: “how can you run your business if you don’t have a GPS - at some point you’re going to go off the road or take a wrong turn.” In other words you need a plan, and the plan needs targets.

Another article I read by one of the gurus of franchising, Michael Sherlock, talks about the roadmap. Michael uses the statement “If you fail to plan, than you plan to fail.” Michael talks about historical data, i.e. last year’s figures. Balance sheets are great, but if you’ll have difficulty getting to your destination if you are obsessed with your rear view mirror, which in essence is what your historical figures are yesterday’s numbers.

Measuring your marketing dollar How much of your marketing dollar can you measure in terms of results? The best money you can spend is touching your existing customers, between now and Christmas. Time and time again every successful business will tell you it’s about engaging with your existing clientele. You want to make sales , and I don’t care what business you are in, pick up the phone and speak to your customers. I guarantee one out of three calls will bring a sale.

Google in our world? In my last article I was discussing the Hong Kong fair and how I attended a DeBeers fund raising dinner. As usual we were discussing the internet and the power of its reach. We were also talking about a fascinating book which I recommend you all called Google: What Would They Do? by John Jarvis.

November 2011 - jewellers trade

In essence it is about the next generation, how business has, and will continue to change, and how can you apply this to yourself and what you do . The book made an interesting point. Entrepreneurs are getting younger. The average age is now early 20s. But think about it, this is a generation of youngsters that don’t read paper newspapers and are not overly interested in TV and magazines. They are the ‘digital natives’ - a generation who grew up in chat rooms, and went to school with a Facebook login. I quote from the book: “The principal asset a young tech entrepreneur has is that they don’t know a lot of things. In almost every other circumstance this would be a disadvantage, but not here and not now. The world really has changed overnight when wild new things are possible if you don’t have any sense of how things used to be. If you just arrived then you are not limited in your thoughts as to what is or what could be possible - this is the true catalyst for creative thought.” Challenging, huh? Consider for a moment that the most valuable real estate on the internet would have to be the Google homepage and yet there is not one ad on it. Why? Because Google’s research tells them their customers don’t want it. Every brand expert or marketing guru tells you to maintain the image consistency. So lets explore and challenge ourselves. What would Google do in the jewellery business? Google would build forums for designers of jewellery, great pictures and a blog for all to comment on, they would create an auction to get the best price for the seller and buyer (just

like Google ads) with plenty of ads for the highest bidder. Google would create a environment where other companies who saw opportunities for add-ons would flourish. Companies in related fields would suddenly have the chance to connect and find a whole new market. Apps would be developed allowing the lay person to create their own unique ring online. Designers and jewellers from around the world could then bid on the chance to make it. It’s all about doing things differently. It’s about thinking broadly and doing things in ways they’ve never been done before. I leave you with this thought: if Google wanted to sell diamond rings the public would trust it 100% just like we trust gmail. Fortunately, Google isn’t interested in selling diamond rings but they are always building platforms with this sort of trading in mind. Google injects its google-juice and suddenly the way business is done changes. Speak to your kids. Ask them what would they do with your business if they had a free hand. They might just come up with the next Google. Where your experience comes in is helping them achieve their dreams, helping them plan and set goals. Maybe it’s their time to be the pilot.

Trade well, Rami Baron.



jewellers trade - November 2011

Gold and Diamonds in the Arab Spring Dubai is all set to reinforce its position as the world’s third largest diamond trading hub with the value of 2011 trading set to surpass the $35 billion mark achieved in 2010, according to Ahmed bin Sulayem, executive chairman of Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC). As per the latest available data from the Dubai Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Dubai Diamond Exchange reported 128 per cent growth in polished diamond exports, valued at $14.6 billion, even as $41.3 billion worth of gold was traded in Dubai in 2010, an increase of 18 per cent on the previous year. From $20 billion in 2009, the value of Dubai’s vibrant diamond trade rose to $35 billion in 2010, and this year it is poised to scale new heights, Bin Sulayem said at a press briefing. Fuelling this growth in diamond trading is the Dubai Diamond Exchange, a subsidiary of the DMCC, and a leading global diamond trading platform. Bin Sulayem said Dubai’s gold and diamond trading remains on a growth trajectory given that the UAE is the highest per capita jewellery consumption destination in the world. He said the DMCC, set up in 2002 as a strategic initiative to enhance commodity trade flows by providing the physical and financial infrastructure, is committed to support industry initiatives that are in line with its vision. Alison Burns, Head of Precious Metals, Standard Bank MENA, said while speculative and ETF investment demand has been a major driving factor in gold’s recent bullish trend, Dubai remains a major regional hub for physical distribution. All this is despite Dubai’s more modest approach to business these days. It’s been two years since Dubai was forced to go cap in hand to it’s neighbour Abu Dhabi for a bailout, but after forcing banks to bolster reserves, ringfencing valuable assets and deferring debt maturities, Dubai’s dreams of being a top financial centre are still alive. Luck certainly seems to be in its favor: the Gulf emirate has proven an oasis of calm amid the chaos of the Arab Spring, which saw rebellion in countries as far apart as Tunisia and Syria and, crucially, rival Bahrain. “In Dubai 2.0 we’re likely to see what we didn’t see earlier - more Arab traffic and more Arab business,” said Florence Eid, CEO at research firm Arabia Monitor. “There’s going to

be more regionalisation of the region. They used to send petrodollars to the U.S. and Europe and some people used to go to Asia. Now we’re seeing Arabs investing in other Arab countries - Dubai epitomizes all of that, even more than ever now, as a locus for this activity.” Dubai’s malls are teeming with visitors from the region. In particular, there is a weekend spike in Saudi visitors, who earlier probably used to make the much shorter drive to Bahrain. With bulging designer wallets, Kuwaiti and Saudi visitors come to spend thousands of dollars on scarves, diamonds and gold. Jewellery shops in Dubai, from souk to glittery malls, are stocking up on bullion to meet the higher demand. The recent volatility in gold prices has disrupted traditional buying patterns in Dubai. Earlier, people would buy gold in the form of jewellery, but a renewed focus of the yellow metal’s investment potential is seeing a growing trend in the purchase of coins and bullion. According to Bin Sulayem, those who are looking to invest in gold now are “those who don’t have gold in their portfolios; people who think that in addition to having a bank account, they need to have gold.” The World Gold Council says demand for physical bars and coins in the United Arab Emirates - the grouping of seven emirates that includes Dubai - rose 6% in the second quarter of 2011 from a year earlier, while demand for jewellery was down 1% in the same period. Gold certificates are also increasingly popular. Demand for local bank Emirates NBD’s Gold Certificates, which can be redeemed either in cash or physical gold bars, has risen fivefold in August and September from the beginning of the year, Gerhard Schubert, head of precious metals, at Emirates NBD said. “There’s been unprecedented buying from the moment of the market opening till close,” he said adding that many of the certificate buyers are fresh buyers. However street wisdom holds that there’s a marked preference for physical gold in Dubai. “Unlike in the West where people are happy to invest in gold certificates and exchange traded funds, here they like to handle gold; it’s a cultural difference,” said an analyst.


jewellers trade - November 2011

Tools of the Trade Trevor Wright of House of Jewellery shares a few tips for sucking up the savings. I’ve sold tools in the jewellery industry for over 20 years and have seen a number of ups and downs in this time. In the ‘good times’ I’ve sold products that have improved the speed of production like GRS Tools, and when we’ve been seeking better quality in the end product of my speciality area, which is casting, I’ve sought out better casting machines such as Yasui from Japan. In today’s more challenging times, I’m often told “my customers are squeezing me for better prices, how can I compete?” Often gram prices are cut, just to retain customers, but little or nothing is done to off-set these price cuts. This begins a downward spiral in the business’ takings, leading to cash flow problems and preventing it buying much needed resources. In recent times I hear jewellers talk every day about the high price of gold and how they can’t afford to buy what they need. Well, it’s not just about buying, but also about saving that can make the difference. When I came to work for House of Jewellery in July 2000 gold was at AUD461/oz with an exchange rate of 60 cents Aussie. Today, gold is around AUD1750/oz and our dollar is just about at parity. That’s an increase of around 280%! Now you’re not going to be able to discount that kind of deal for any of your customers. So what to do? Well, among the agencies I brought with me to House of Jewellery was one called Vaniman. They build a brilliant range of dust collectors. For around the price of an ounce of gold you can enter the world of savings, and saving big time. The Vaniman Voyager recovers around 97% of all gold lost in filing, emerying, and polishing, whether it’s with rubber wheel or polishing machine. The Voyager is basically made up of 3 components, the motor box, a vortex accumulator and a collection point accessory. Vaniman produce a number of these accessories, such as the Jet Port with Comfort Zone and the new Downdraft that attach or sit on your bench for filing, emery and rubber wheel work. The Splash Guard with its own in built light and face guard is used for polishing machines. From these, the dust travels to the Accumulator, essentially a vortex system that generates a whirlwind effect inside which separates the heavier dust into a pot at the bottom. This is where 95% of the dust is collected. From here the remainder, which is the very light residue is taken into the motor box and gathered in a filter bag collecting the remaining 2%. This process allows you to regain the majority of your loss immediately, rather than waiting to fill the bag and send it off for refining (with its own set of problems!) If you have allergies, the Vaniman Voyager can even have a HEPA filter added (High Efficiency Particulate Air Filter) capable of removing things like pollen down to a size as small as 0.3 micron. As a comparison a human hair is around 80 microns, so you can see that the filtering abilities of the

Vaniman Voyager are exceptional. All manufacturing jewellers solder and use acid: the Vaniman Voyager can be fitted with a charcoal filter to filter these fumes too. It’s also a part of the jeweller’s life that there is noise in the workshop, hammering, flexi motors etc and you don’t need extra noise from things like dust extractors. Well there’s good news here too, because the Voyager has a low 55db noise level which means that as the motor control box generally sits beside your bench its noise won’t drive you crazy. It will also service two benches or a bench and a polishing machine. In my experience, I’ve found that the cost of the Vaniman Voyager Dust Collector and any accessories is generally recouped within the first 2 years of operation, after this any dust collected is like money in the bank! Obviously price is important to most people, but when an understanding of product function and long term cost is taken into consideration, the importance of a lower up-front price wanes while the sweet taste of long term savings endures. With Vaniman you get more suck for your buck! If you need further assistance or wish to buy Vaniman Dust Collectors please contact House of Jewellery offices in Brisbane and Sydney on 1800 810 147

Phone: (03) 9500 2777 Fax: (03) 9500 2788 email:


jewellers trade - November 2011


“Rocking with MIE Creations”

A Transformation Through Time By Stacey Florescu Creative and Marketing Manager Made In Earth Creations Malachite is one of the oldest known minerals with mining of the vividly green mineral by the ancient Egyptians dating back as far as 4000BC. First used as pigments for eye shadows, paints and the dying of cloth, it then led to the search of metallic ores and to the development of metallurgy. The name malachite is thought to be derived from its resemblance to the leaves of the mallow plant or possibly from “malakos”, the Greek word for soft. Even with a low ranking of 3.5 – 4 on MOH’s scale of hardness, when polished malachite may still achieve a vitreous lustre similar to quartz. Its surface may become dull from abrasion over time from fine quartz particles that circulate in the atmosphere and general wear-and-tear. This copper carbonate can be expressed by the formula Cu2Co3(OH)2 which is almost identical to that of the deep blue copper mineral azurite and the two often occur together. Malachite is referred to ‘the stone of transformation’ and is also known to be a pseudomorph of azurite, which refers to a substitution from one mineral to another whilst retaining the original appearance and dimensions. In the case of malachite it is the prismatic crystals and clusters of azurite that it imitates so frequently. The opaque green mineral, which crystallizes in the monoclinic crystal system, is rarely seen in single crystal form but most often as botryoidal, fibrous or stalagmitic masses. It is formed from the weathering of copper ores

by water over time and the copper is redeposited in cavities of copper rich host rocks. The concentric banding of light and dark shades of green are a reflection of the concentration levels of copper and the subtle changes in the oxidation states of the surrounding pore waters. Bunny Bedi, owner and creative director of Made In Earth Creations, discusses some of the finer points of cutting from some of these growth forms. “A lot of the rough malachite that we cut our cabochons from is a botryoidal aggregate. This growth formation is one where the mineral has a globular external form resembling a bunch of grapes. From this external characteristic we can determine the direction and pattern of banding contained beneath the surface. In each piece we try to capture the most exciting and vividly contrasting patterns that in turn display what malachite is so loved for,” Bunny explains. “Over the years it has become an increasingly difficult stone to find in a high quantity and quality as industrial mining of the copper ore has exhausted many large commercial deposits. Matching cabochons for earrings and bracelets has always been a challenge, as with any patterned stone, but especially now with supplies running low.” Appreciated for thousands of years, malachite has truly transformed from a source of colour to an amulet of beauty. How many more years this beloved velvety green gemstone wil be available for the jewellery industry is unknown - like many limited sources of nature.

JENADOR beauty from within...

Each design is Australian-made and created from up to 1 carat in weight hand-carved gem opal, with 24 carat gold signature designs set in stirling silver. To become an authorised Jenador retailer, please contact us. Any profit from online sales will be attributed to the nearest retailer.


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jewellers trade - November 2011

Men’s Jewellery Interest in and sales of men’s jewellery are on the rise worldwide, especially in markets where jewellery for men has been a normal practice, said Euromonitor International, a market analyst based in the United Kingdom. Men’s jewellery sales in India are expected to increase by 59 percent to $194.4 million in 2011. This is not surprising in a country where kings and maharajas owned some of the most beautiful jewellery pieces in the world and even today, men’s jewellery is a traditional staple, making the transition to modern men’s jewellery a natural progression. India is expected to be the third largest jewellery market for men following China and the United Kingdom. Euromonitor estimates sales of men’s luxury jewellery rose 8.7 percent in 2010 and 3.8 percent in 2009. The forecast in 2011 is about double the gain seen for women’s high-end jewellery and men’s luxury watches. China remains the largest market for men’s luxury jewellery this year and jewellery sales in that market are predicted to rise by 14 percent. While most assume that men’s jewellery is all about wedding and engagement bands, there is an opportunity to develop the market for other forms of jewellery. In fact, the ring itself can also come in the form of a signet ring symbolising wealth, power and status. Men’s jewellery comes in gold, silver and platinum but gold and platinum with diamonds has been a firm design favourite. Titanium and tungsten are also potential choices. Photos: Top - Blacksmith & Co. Bottom - Chandon Lucien


jewellers trade - November 2011

Sotheby’s Important Watches Tracing the development of watchmaking from 1574 to the present day, Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watch sale includes important pieces from pivotal moments in horological history, from very fine examples of Renaissance watches to highly complicated modern wristwatches, through luxurious pocket watches made for the Chinese, Ottoman, India and Hispanic markets in the 19th century. The sale, with 270 lots estimated in excess of CHF 8 million, also includes a large selection of rare vintage and modern wristwatches by the most prestigious watchmakers of the 20th and 21st centuries. The star lot of the sale is the Patek Philippe “Clarin Mustad 1518” - a unique reference 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph. Made on special request in 1944, this watch with attached 18ct pink gold brick link bracelet, moon-phases and French calendar on a specially made pink dial was dedicated to Clarin Mustad (1871-1948), a Norwegian industrialist who contributed to the emergence of the car industry in Europe. Produced between 1941 and 1954, the Reference 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to be manufactured in a series by any firm in the world. Fortyseven pink-gold examples are known to exist, and the “Clarin Mustad 1518” is the only one known with such a bracelet and lugs. Two Rolex pieces that belonged to world leaders will also be offered. The first is an exceptionally rare Rolex Oyster Perpetual, dating from circa 1948, and possibly offered to the first President of the Republic of India, Dr. Rajendra Prasad on the occasion of the inauguration of the Indian Republic on January 26, 1950. The second historical Rolex is an 18ct yellow gold automatic center seconds “Datejust” wristwatch presented to the first Chancellor of the Federal Republic of Germany, Konrad Adenauer in 1955. The sale will take place on Sunday November 13 at 8 p.m. at the Beau-Rivage Hotel, Geneva.

1,091,473 moulds & counting When Felix Parry started Australia’s first Jewellery Casting House in 1951, The Palloys Mould Library was born. Today, with over 1 million moulds, Palloys has the largest Proprietary & Customer Mould Library in Australia. Coupled with our state-of-the-art CAD CAM Facility (Australia’s largest Supersmooth™ Printing Capacity & our team of jewellery trained Drawers) & we are sure that you’ll find the design you need. AUSTRALIA WIDE


1300 886 108 Passionate about Casting & CAD CAM


John’s Watch

jewellers trade - November 2011



Last week, I conducted training for one of our retailers who carries a Swiss brand we distribute. The account is one of our best and so when I planned for the training, I designed the program to be more about the selling techniques that should be used when selling a Swiss watch.   I always start these presentations with a few basic questions about various features and technical attributes about a Swiss watch, so we can establish the general level of knowledge and then adapt the presentation to suit. I took for granted that the staff would have a reasonably good level of knowledge about the key features of a Swiss watch, but it soon became apparent after the presentation started, that this was not the case.    After a couple of basic questions, I realised that I had to change the focus of the presentation to be more about the basic workings of a Swiss watch and the terminology used, as this is important when selling to a customer who either has done some research or is a watch enthusiast. If the person selling the watch comes across as having little or no knowledge about the product, then these customers tend to go elsewhere, as they lose confidence in the retailer.   Of course, there are customers who will spend thousands of dollars on something that just looks nice, including a diamondencrusted Swiss watch. However, even these customers need to be told a few basic things about the care of the watch. If the watch is an automatic, all the more important that the customer be given some advice and instruction.   For instance and contrary to popular opinion, an automatic watch is not wound by shaking it from side to side! Yes, this will result in the second hand starting to move, but the mainspring will not be wound sufficiently to ensure the movement operates within its design specifications and the result will be a watch that keeps poor time, leading to the customer coming back in and

complaining that their watch is not working properly. To make sure that the watch keeps good time, the crown must be wound first. About a dozen or so turns should be enough to wind the spring up. After that, if the watch is being worn, the natural movement of the customer will keep the spring wound. Winding the watch every couple of days is also recommended to ensure consistent operation.   It appears to me that the main reason why customers are not given such basic information is either that the salesperson does not themselves know it, or the salesperson is afraid of losing the sale. If the salesperson has a good level of understanding of the product and is prepared to confidently explain to the customer the basics of care and operation, then this actually enhances the sale process and the customer is more likely to purchase.   The other benefit is that the customer can now make an informed decision. If they are buying the watch because it “looks nice”, then they may decide against the automatic and instead, purchase a quartz watch will keep better time and not require the same level of after sales service as the automatic. Surely, it’s best to find this out when the customer is in the store, rather than afterwards?   There are very good retailers out there who still employ the basics of selling, which are; find out as much as is practical about the customer and this either reinforces their choice or prompts you to suggest something more suitable. The end result is a satisfied customer who won’t come back to complain, but one who comes back for more of that great service and the products sold in that store.   The day after the training (and I swear I did not orchestrate this, but maybe I should in future!) a gentleman came

into the store and asked about a specific watch which the retailer had in the display. As it turns out, the watch was an automatic with the famous Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. It was obvious that the customer had done some research, because he asked about the movement and how it compared to others. To cut a long story short, the sale was made 10 minutes later and was worth over $2,000 at retail. The retailer called me up afterwards to say the pizzas the night before had been paid for! Within two days, the same retailer, but a different staff member to the one who sold the automatic chronograph and who had also attended the training, sold a watch, this time valued at well over $4,000 and was over the moon. What proportion of your weekly sales would almost $7,000 represent? The combined time to sell these watches was less than 30 minutes.    I repeatedly get told it’s difficult to sell watches, but what I know is this; it’s impossible when you don’t know anything about the product. If your staff are knowledgeable and confident and your attitude is positive, then not only will you sell watches well, but you will do excellent business   Nothing in this article should be revolutionary, but sometimes, we need a revolution to remember what works.   The old saying that “retail is detail” is just as relevant today as it ever was, if not more so. When you are selling expensive items that are not “needed” as much as “wanted’ you need to invest some of your time to ensure you have the skills in the store to get the sale. Training is one of those things that you should have set at the start of the year into your calendar and stick to it. The return on investment pays for itself very quickly.

John Papaioannou of Time-Essentials

BULOVA CLOCKS Throughout the 1980’s, while continuing to introduce new attributes to its wristwatch lines, Bulova also maintained innovative, exciting work on its highly regarded clocks. Once the core of Joseph Bulova’s small shop on Maiden Lane, clocks always accounted for a sizable portion of Bulova’s business, whether in the defence sector, where they were used aboard cutting-edge aircraft, or with NASA, where Bulova clocks performed many functions, including the measurement of distance between the Earth and the Moon, and the changes to that distance over time. In the home environment, Bulova clocks also continued to flourish, and in 1983, the Bulova Dimension entered the market as the world’s thinnest wall clock, measuring just five-eighths of an inch thick. Easily identifiable as a work of both pioneering technology and fashionable simplicity, the Bulova Dimension quickly became a desired favourite in homes across America. In addition to the minimalisation of clock width, in 1986 Bulova minimised the entire clock altogether with the launch of Bulova Miniatures, a sophisticated and classically stylish selection of solid brass miniature collectable clocks. Bulova clocks are now available in Australia across Mantel, Tabletop, Alarm, Wall, Picture Frame, Executive and Maritime Collections. Priced From RRP $30 - $300

Customer Service: Phone:1800 303 209 Website:


jewellers trade - November 2011

On The Road

with Colin Berger

Surprising Service Good customer service shouldn’t be a surprise.

Unfortunately these days many customers are surprised when they walk into a store and find good service and a pleasant sales person with product knowledge. But isn’t that how it should be? No business can exist without customers, and in our world of boundless choice, instant gratification and information at our fingertips, not only do customers today want courteous and attentive service but they also want detailed product information. This is the age of technology and Google can give them the answer at the mere press of a button. Your customer service has to compete with that. Why is customer service so important to a successful business? Educating the customer is more important today than almost anything else. When a customer is impressed by a company’s product knowledge and ability to promptly and accurately answer queries, their confidence in that company grows. Customers have more options than ever before and are less loyal than they have been in previous generations. Today’s shopper and new “internet customer” wants the product they are after for the best price and with the least amount of fuss, and salespeople have only one chance at making the best impression and closing that sale. Average customer service doesn’t cut the cloth any longer. Blow your customer away with unexpected amazing service, and they won’t feel like shopping around any further. I have seen so many different scenarios – and not only in jewellery stores – where a customer has had such a bad experience that they will not return to the store, and worse, will also bad mouth the store. Remember: word of mouth is the most effective marketing tool known. Look what happened to Gerald Ratner - a one-off joke in a press conference finished his business. So, how can we monitor whether or not we are offering brilliant “blow away” service to our customers? The best way is to become a customer yourself. Drop into another town where no one knows your face, and wander into a competitor’s store to see how they do it. What works? What do their staff do to make you feel comfortable and confident and likely to buy? Now return to your own shop and look around with fresh eyes. How do you compare? Big companies employ the “mystery shopper” which can be an expensive process, but often worth the money. Finding

out what is happening in your own business when you are not there is not easy. You probably have CCTV. If the mystery shopper gig won’t work for you, why not take a gander at your CCTV footage and see what’s gone on when you’re not there. Body language tells us a lot. Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) sound like a whole lot of business-speak mumbo jumbo, but they’re an excellent way for you and staff to measure your customer service achievements. Take some time and sit down with your staff and work out how you can measure some key areas of customer service. Just this exercise itself will do a lot to focus your attention on your overall strategy. Consider things like product knowledge, body language and communication and anticipating customer’s needs. Don’t forget the ‘feel good factor’. This is one of the most important areas of customer service. If you can not only help the customer have a good experience, but offer them an experience that exceeds their expectations, then you have them in your hand. When did your store last look at lead times on orders, repairs or work in the workshop? Look at any areas within the business that you can improve upon. Retail service is a different service to any other environment, as customers make a decision on the spot, whether comfortable or not. When ordering over the internet you can click out of any sale that isn’t to your satisfaction. When you put your car in for a service, you won’t know if work was satisfactory until after its done. But in retail you are likely to be face to face with the customer the moment they make the decision to either go with that sale or shop around. Remember, any mistakes made in sales technique are immediate, and cannot be covered up at a later stage. Right now there are many reasons for slow sales, and we all experience a slump in sales at some time, but can your sales people improve sales? I believe excellent customer service can be the key to increasing sales. Listen to your customer to understand their needs and wants. Educate them about the products, and finally, let the customer know you appreciate their business. Leave them with the ‘feel good factor’ and they’ll be back for more.

140+ chain designs available from stock Up to 20 lengths available Next day shipping Contact us for a catalogue

Silver Chain & Jewellery Wholesaler Ph: 02 9380 4742 | Fax: 02 8580 6168 | Email: Preferred supplier to Nationwide


jewellers trade - November 2011 Supplier Profile

Urban Steel By Sharm Aboosally

A surprise best-seller in steel jewellery for the newly launched collection, Tuskc, is its collection for women, which accounts for 70 percent of its product range.

“It’s a common perception that steel jewellery is mainly for men,” said operations manager at Tuskc, Helen Hagerty. “Our retailers are amazed at the response from their female clientele. The high price of gold and silver has made steel jewellery a viable alternative as an accessory for both men and women.” Based in New South Wales, Tuskc is a unisex brand specialising in steel jewellery and created in response to a gap in the market for an all-encompassing steel jewellery brand. Tuskc is founded by Dave and Jacquie Randall. Jacquie is the great grand-daughter of Alick Buckle, who founded the iconic “Buckle” brand in 1922. Buckle manufacture men’s and women’s belts for more than 2000 retailers across Australian and New Zealand, as well as major corporate clients. The brand’s main clientele is consumers between 18 and 25, both men and women although it targets consumers from 16 to 60. The brand has three collections – Urban, Men’s and Women’s and all three collections retail from $20 to $499. Some designs are set with white diamonds from 0.5 points of a carat to 3 points of a carat. Other products used include the Swarovski Elements brand; Onyx; and clay, which was developed by Swarovski and can be made in many different colours to match the colour of the stones hand set into it. Also used are Swarovski Crystal pearls 5810 which combine a pearl coating over a drilled crystal to make it look natural. “The inspiration for our designs comes from a desire to merge the latest fashion trends with timeless lines and all day


jewellers trade - November 2011

wearability,” said Ms Hagerty. New designs are launched twice a year, generally February/March and August, and there are an average of 3.5 stock turns per year. The brand is carried by 185 stock lists throughout Australia and in April 2011, the company launched the product in Wellington, Auckland and Hamilton in New Zealand. “We exhibited at the JAA Sydney Fair and there was strong interest from many retailers in New Zealand,” said Ms Hagerty. The company advertises through print advertising and focuses on in-flight magazines, which targets both male and female consumers equally. “Our target audience is balanced between men and women and in-flight magazines do cater to both these segments equally.” Each piece comes with its own packaging and code and the company provides its retailers with in-store, point-of-sale and other store advertising. A contribution is also made for local and regional advertising. In addition, VIP events hosted by the retailer are supported by the company which will ensure attendance at the event by a Tuskc Sales Representative, provision of Tuskc postcards, a product giveaway and Tuskc banners at the store. Products are manufactured by a company in China. The manufacturer has designed a new stone setting which will further secure the stone in the piece. Tuskc is also considering investing in its manufacturing partner. Products are manufactured from 316L surgical grade stainless steel and some 304 grade stainless steel, Ms Hagerty said. “We primarily use surgical grade stainless steel as is does not stain, corrode or rust like ordinary steel does. 316L surgical grade stainless steel differs from carbon steel by the amount of chromium and molybdenum present. The chromium prevents corrosion and also gives the metal greater scratch resistance and the molybdenum gives greater hardness which increases the durability of the jewellery structure, and provides a smooth and polished finish.”

Standard mill finishes can be applied to 316L stainless steel directly by mechanical abrasives. After the 316L rolls or tubes are created and the protective layer is created on the surface a variety of finishes can be applied to achieve the desired appearance, including: brushed finish, matte finish, reflective finish, sand blast finish, heat coloured finish (PVD). All Tuskc jewellery has a twelve month warranty against defects in manufacture or materials. Warranty cards are provided which can be given to the customer. Care for steel jewellery is surprisingly simple – just wash with warm water and liquid dish washing soap and then rinsed thoroughly in warm water to ensure no soap residue remains.

Suite 1202, 227 Collins Street Melbourne Victoria Australia ph: +61 3 9654 1550 fax: +61 3 9654 0631 email:

november& decmeber 2011

We wish everyone a safe, happy festive season & a prosperous New Year.

Zircon is the birthstone for December. It is available in the popular champagne and cognac colours as well as blues, yellows and greens. Its outstanding brilliance makes it a great alternative to coloured diamond.

Hamid Bros will close at 12pm Friday 23rd December and reopen Monday 16th January 2012 Blue Zircon 6.91ct 10.3 x 11mm

Christmas is fast approaching after another interesting year. The trend we have seen is still toward fine quality gems. Our customers are enjoying selling individual coloured gems which their clients cannot find at a discounted price elsewhere or on the internet. If you need to add some colour to you stock for Christmas but don’t have time to have them made up, we have a selected range of jewellery made in Australia by members of the Gold and Silversmiths Guild.

Champagne Zircon 3.07ct 8.9 x 6.5mm

A Natural Emerald

Blue Sapphire


Yellow Zircon 5.60ct 11.6 x 8.7mm

Green Zircon 5.77ct 12 x 9.6mm

Blue Zircon 4.50ct 8.6 x 8mm

Yellow Zircon 3.24ct 9.2 x 7.8mm

Cognac zircon 11.83ct 13.6 x 11.7mm

smAll sAmple of speciAl new stones

Spessartite Garnet

Chrome Tourmaline 3.42ct 12.4 x 7.2mm

Aquamarine 12.96ct 17.5 x

Tanzanite 5.34ct 11.2mm

Burmese Spinel 3.50ct 10.6 x 7.6mm

Yellow Sapphire 4.19ct 10.5 x 8.1mm

Padparadscha Sapphire 2.65ct 8.2 x 7.8mm

Amethyst 16.64ct 20 x 14.8mm

Peridot 10.32ct 13.5 x 10.5mm

Pink Sapphire

Donations to charities This year we will be donating to Vic Dog Rescue and other charities instead of sending Christmas Cards. Boots (pictured below), the latest addition to Debi’s family is living proof of the great work Vic Dog Rescue does for homeless animals.

Purple Sapphire 4.56ct 11.7 x 9.1mm

Pink Sapphire 1.82ct 7.4 x 5.6mm

Sapphire 4.07ct 10.2 x 7.4mm

Pink Spinel 3.60ct 12 x 7.5mm

Jewels of the Orient Brendan McCreesh of O’Neils Affiliated is a regular visitor to gem markets across Asia. On his recent trip he kept a diary of his adventures...

A gem buying trip covering four countries over three weeks is always an exciting, if not daunting prospect, but this time I have the added pleasure of being accompanied by my 12 year old son, Aidan. From Jaipur to Hong Kong to China to Bangkok we experienced weird, wonderful and exotic foods, sights and people as well as crazy rides on tuk-tuks, rickshaws and elephants. For the first time I decided to record the journey in the form a blog and upload photographs along the way, all available to view at our website.


Our first stop is Jaipur, in India’s Rajasthan and we split our six days into near equal measures of work and holiday. Being mindful of not boring my son to death by dragging him from office to office the whole time, we broke up the trip with small sightseeing trips that were really worthwhile. We even squeezed in a Bollywood blockbuster. The main purpose of the Jaipur visit was to discuss cutting and supply issues with a number of suppliers rather than to select individual stones, even so I pick up some unexpected surprises along the way. Email and international telephone calls are wonderful communication tools, but there’s no substitute for face-to-face meetings for both parties to know and understand each other’s everyday problems. I make arrangements to get sample ranges of top quality calibrated emeralds, chrome tourmalines and tsarvorite garnets

as well as examples of fancy cuts not often seen in Australia. I plan to upload film of these more unusual cuts to our website so that customers are aware of the many possibilities. Everywhere I go I am also shown beads, beads and more beads. If the beads are something different and high quality I take a keen interest, but I avoid the seemingly limitless amount of run-of-the-mill and low quality strands. Moving from office to office around the Jaipur streets is an assault on the senses - lots of dirt and dust and sweat in the never ending beep-beep of horns and vehicles of every kind - cars, trucks, rickshaws, motorbikes, scooters, bicycles and wooden carts pulled by men, horses, donkeys, camels and yes, elephants. Everywhere there are colourful street stalls selling amazing fruits, vegetables, nuts, grains, spices and all kinds of cooked fare. There are huge, black iron pans called Kadhais (like woks) full of boiling oil perched on bricks just inches from passing pedestrians. Incredibly there is a sense of calm in all of this and no-one seems to get flustered in the crazy criss-cross of vehicles, pedestrians and beasts. To us it is a mad, confusing, frenzy … but not a bother to them. I love it and hate it at the same time.

Hong Kong

We were delighted to arrive in Hong Kong, as busy as Jaipur but oh so very different. There’ll be no holiday component on this leg but I think it’s the part we both enjoy the most. I find I can never tire of the dazzling


jewellers trade - November 2011

neon of the shops and restaurants of Tsim Sha Tsui and the panoramic view of sky-scrapers across the harbour to Hong Kong Island ... wonderful. With electronics and gismo stores at every turn Aidan is in his element. We meet Kasie from our Melbourne office to lend her expert eye to carving, bead and pearl selection and to attend the trade fair. I can’t hide how delighted I am with the quality and variety of the extraordinary range she selects. We’re excited and enthusiastic to get this back to Australia and on display.


During the week we take a detour into China to visit some carving and beads suppliers. The results are not as fruitful as previous visits but we do find a fantastic range of banded agate strands. On this particular occasion our time would have been better spent staying in Hong Kong, but you live and learn. Overall though, we are very happy with what we have achieved. Kasie heads back to Melbourne while Aidan and I are off to Bangkok for another mix of work and holiday with the added bonus of meeting my wife and younger son.


The buying plan for the Bangkok leg of this trip is to hand select stones known to be in demand during the Christmas trading period, the busiest of the year. My plan is to be careful and conservative, which is not as easy as it may seem. Beautiful gemstones are inherently intoxicating and it’s easy to convince yourself that one magnificent stone is better than ten more practical ones for the same money … occasionally yes, but more often no. I visit a succession of suppliers and view thousands upon thousands of stones, and with every stone I see I am faced with a dilemma that is a little more

complicated than simply ‘which one to buy?’ The root of the dilemma is the vast majority of gemstones are not cut for the Australian market. Most gemstones are cut to be sold already set in jewellery, not loose, and are generally cut shallow to obtain maximum spread for minimum weight. Shallow stones, of course, are inherently cheaper and the impact of the undesirable window in a shallow stone is hidden by clever setting design. The world market for this type of jewellery is huge, and also an attractive proposition for some Australian jewellery retailers. However if the retailer (or the customer) were to see these stones loose I guarantee they would pass them over. When purchasing a loose stone they’re looking for a wellcut stone with good colour, proportions and no unattractive inclusions - they are after all looking for something beautiful. However, this beautiful stone simply must cost more than the shallow one in the ring - there’s no way around it. The problem arises when the time comes to find a replacement stone. Are they going to replace it with a comparable shallow stone or a beautiful one? Either way, they expect to be given the choice, but buying lower grade stones is actually more difficult than buying beautiful ones. From four days of selection I have ticked nearly every item on my special orders and Christmas stock lists with a few bonus surprise stones for good measure. We round off the journey with a few quiet days at the beach town of Hua Hin, south of Bangkok. My wife confiscates my laptop for good measure. It was a long, busy and enormously satisfying trip - maybe next time I’ll take son number two. Read more »


jewellers trade - November 2011



Curse of the

By Kevin Robertson

Delhi Purple Sapphire

There are many legends, myths and curses associated with gems - the Hope Diamond, the Koh-i-Diamond and even the Blue Waters Diamond that caused so much trouble for Beau Geste and his brothers.

“This stone is trebly accursed and is stained with the blood and dishonour of everyone who has ever owned it.”

So what is fact and what is fiction?

Jewellers Trade Magazine is launching an ongoing investigation and is committed to getting the truth about these famous and infamous stones. The first ‘curse’ to be investigated belongs to The Delhi Purple Sapphire currently lodged in the London Museum of Natural History. The curse was brought back into the spotlight by an article appearing in the London Times in 2007. The story, as told by The Times, started in 1857 when the rock was confiscated from its native India by a Colonel W. Ferris of the Bengal Lancers. The Colonel served during the mutiny in Kanpur and the sapphire was pinched from the temple during the melee. The good Colonel returned to England and nothing but bad luck and ill health dogged him for the rest of his life. He lost the family fortune and died stone cold broke. The stone went to his son who didn’t do much better.

Cast it into the Sea It was next off-loaded to Edward Heron-Allen, a prominent lawyer, scientist, and musician. He was also a good mate of Oscar Wilde. But none of this saved him from the curse and he was followed by bad luck and misfortune. It got so bad that he even tried to pass the troublesome stone to a couple of friends. One of these acquaintances was a singer who promptly lost her voice after receiving the gift. Mr. Heron-Allen ditched the stone into the Thames but alas even this didn’t work because, believe it or not, it was returned to him. In a final act of desperation he wrapped the rock in seven layers of paper and sent it off to the London Museum of Natural History with the accompanying

note: “This stone is trebly accursed and is stained with the blood and dishonour of everyone who has ever owned it.” He went on, “Whoever shall open it shall first read out this warning and then do as he or she pleases with the jewel. My advice is to cast it into the sea.” This remained a mystery until about 30 years ago when a young chap working at the museum found this funny little package and opened it up. He found the stone and read the note, but fear of ridicule prevented the scientist from revealing his unusual find. But as is the way with these types of curses, the story got out and now the sapphire is on display for all who dare to go and have a look.

Ferris Wheels and Cheetah Girls Now it’s time to take a close look at the facts and the obvious place to start is with the people involved. The only Colonel W. Ferris that we could turn up lived in California, and as far as we could determine never set foot in India. His claim to fame was that he invented an amusement ride that became popular all over the world. The “Ferris Wheel”. Work that one out. Edward Heron-Allen (1861-1943) is a different kettle of fish. One of his many talents was writing horror stories. They were even considered to be a bit risqué for the times. He used the pseudonym of Christopher Blayne and wrote a number of novels and short stories. In the 1990’s there was some renewed interest in his work and the “Collected Strange Papers of Christopher Blayne” hit the book shelves. Lisa Dumond, who is a horror writer herself and former editor of Mad Magazine got the job of doing a review. Just to put you in the picture one of the

stories was titled “The Cheetah Girl”. Apparently Mr. Blayne was not above giving a bit of stick to Victorian England. “He wasn’t averse to making a joke at any icon’s expense,” said Lisa in her review. So maybe we are starting to see some cracks in the curse story.

Gross Indecency But the next person who gets a mention in this investigation is Oscar Wilde, a friend of Edward’s. There is no specific evidence that Mr. Wilde had any thing to do with the stone but if he had it might explain some very sad facts about the great writer’s misfortune. Oscar was very successful in the 1890’s and was the toast of London with his plays, poetry and novels. He married the beautiful Constance Lloyd and had two sons. But it all came unstuck when his “friendship” with the son of the Marquess of Queensbury became public. The Marquess had charges of gross indecency brought against Oscar who was put on trial, convicted and imprisoned. Oscar died at the age of 46 a broken man. And the bad luck didn’t end there. Constance died at the age of 39 after falling down a flight of stairs injuring her back. An operation was performed but she died on the table. Their son Cyril, who was a gallant and brave solider, was killed by a German sniper in 1915 during WWI.

Beautiful crafted Silver jewellery incorporating coloured gemstones and the purest mabe and white south sea pearls. We are pleased to launch the elegant “Masai Collection”, featuring Tanzanite. Our collections inspire young hearts and capture precious memories.

Case Closed? So, there you have the evidence and on the balance you could probably say the curse is a load of rubbish. But take a look at the life of Oscar Wilde and you could be forgiven for thinking that maybe there just might be something in it. The jury is still out.

Right: Edward Heron-Allen Below: Oscar, Constance and their son Cyril. 08 9324 1326

Wonderful Windows

There is no doubt that windows are a powerful selling tool, if they are eye catching and innovative. By Jennifer Slaney

Windows are a retail outlet’s major marketing tool, and one you do not pay for because they are part of the store’s architecture.

wonderful imagery of brides, honeymoons, or beautiful bouquets of flowers to highlight the engagement ring section.

Make the most of your windows. Keep them fresh! Consider that a person passes your window every day on the way to and from work - that’s 30 times in three working weeks!

Your challenge is to plant a seed of emotion, and use that three second opportunity to stop a passerby and get them to engage in your display. Nine times out of ten, once you stop them, you will hold them for another three minutes, and some of those shoppers will convert the opportunity to a sale, or a revisit when they have time, all based on the instant attraction.

This is why it’s so important to: - change your windows regularly, - clean them twice a day, - plan your themes in a calendar, - re-use your props, and - mix and match your themes. A well dressed window enforces a brand image, giving the shopper an insight into what is available in your store. Lighting can either make or break a window scheme. It can have very effective results and can be achieved with inexpensive equipment, transforming the mood of a window with wash colour. The most important thing about lighting is the maintenance. Always ensure you have spare globes so you don’t need to wait for an electrician to service, resulting in window display down time. Window decals are very now! Look at the various retailers within shopping centres - all the windows have them. Jewellery stores could hop on this latest trend too, using

Another point I’d like to make to so many store owners is ’Less is best’. Resist putting every product in the window at one time. It gets too confusing for the eye to take everything in. Use less product, add the props or themes, and continue to showcase through your stock using your calendar for window planning. Get creative with those windows - go on try it! See the impact it can have, measure the sales increase. Most of all have some fun. Jennifer Slaney is Managing Director of Double Impact Displays



jewellers trade - November 2011


Jewellery Michael Rees visited America’s historic triangle, and checked out ... the jewellery shops.

Tourism and jewellery go together like ham and eggs, bread and butter, and barbeques and beer. Just to prove my point lets look at a couple of American tourist hot spots. Firstly, Williamsburg Virginia. This place has got a very long history. It kicked off in the late 17th century when the new settlers pushed the natives further back into the bush. What made Williamsburg a bit different to the other early townships was that it was not built on a river. In those days the best way of getting around was by boat.

The Birthplace of American Democracy

Williamsburg helps to make up the historic triangle in the north eastern corner of the United States. This area includes Jamestown and Yorktown. They are famous for battles in the American Revolution and the creation of modern politics. Jamestown was the first capital of the new colony of America but after a fire destroyed the town the capital was moved to Williamsburg - the residents had been looking for an excuse to get out of Jamestown anyway because of the plague-like numbers of mosquitoes. Williamsburg went alright for a while. The William and Mary College was established and is still a top notch learning institution. However a number of factors combined to see Williamsburg fall from grace and the lack of a river was the biggy - it made it pretty hard for people to get there. The capital was moved to Richmond and finally to Washington DC. Williamsburg settled into a quiet sort of existence with not many people. They seemed pretty happy to let the world pass them by. There is a famous story about the residents when it came to an election day. They forgot to put out the ballot boxes, they forget to get the rolls up to date, and the candidates forgot to campaign. They just forgot about the elections altogether. Maybe they were telling us something.

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jewellers trade - November 2011

The town was dying a slow death but the few that remained didn’t seem to care. But it did lead the way in a couple of things. It had a world class learning institution and in the 1770’s was the first place in America to have a hospital dedicated to treating mental illness. Maybe the quiet idyllic life is not the way to go. In the 1920’s there was hardly anybody living at Williamsburg but there were a lot of original buildings still standing. So a couple of bright sparks got together and decided to make the place a tourist attraction. It started off slowly but is now the mecca for tourists in the United States. The restored historic area is about 1.5miles long and about 1mile wide. There are about 80 original buildings still standing and 80 families live on site. It is a true step backwards in time. But as you walk down the main drag your attention is drawn to a small store about half way along. It was doing a booming business. You guessed it - a jewellery shop. With the assistants dressed in historical garb they were selling everything from silver and gold to pewter ware. The shop was literally jammed packed. The tourists wanted a reminder of their visit to Williamsburg.

Amish Country

As you travel through Virginia and then into Pennsylvania you come into the Amish part of the world. This is the cult where all the blokes wear beards and big hats and the women wear white aprons and black dresses. They don’t believe in TV or motor cars, (but tractors are alright), they get around by horses, there’s no modern education. and farming is the main business. They also frown upon anyone marrying outside of the religion. A town found in the heart of Amish Country is Intercourse Pennsylvania. This is a small bustling area that has to put up with many jokes about its name, and there would be no doubt that the locals have heard every single one of them at least twice, but it does get the tourists in. The Kitchen Kettle Village in Intercourse has many shops including clothing, quilts and furniture. But the busiest of the lot was the Brighton Collectible. This place specializes in the Brighton brand of jewellery. One lady tourist was buying plenty of merchandise. “It is a charming little town and although I am not really into bling and rhinestones I went into the shop and one hour later I came out with three watches, two necklaces, and two sets of earrings smothered in bling. In one shop I got all my presents for my family and friends,” she said. So there it is, start a jewellery shop in a town with a sexually explicit or suggestive name and you will be in like Flynn.


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jewellers trade - November 2011

New Zealand News The Changing Retail Environment Supporting retailers and building strength in challenging times.

Like every other developed country, New Zealand retail is going through a major change driven by the changing needs and values of customers, mobile technology, social media and online shopping. The jewellery industry in New Zealand is also impacted by other factors including new trends in jewellery and the price of precious metals and gemstones. At JANZ, we are conscious of the need to keep our members abreast of these changes and build our benefits and services to

ensure we are providing the right information and support to our members to help them grow and be more profitable. We are also conscious of the need to provide education and qualifications for those working in the jewellery retail industry. To this end we have been working with the Retail Institute in New Zealand to provide a certificate designed for a retail jewellery salesperson. This course is linked with the National Certificate in Retail and is NZQA registered. It is a very comprehensive and reasonably priced training course that provides the salesperson with the knowledge of retail practices, but more importantly specific information and technical knowledge on jewellery materials and practices. JANZ believes that this certificate is essential for jewellery retailers to provide excellence in customer service, improve sales and to encourage young people into the jewellery retail industry as a career choice for the future of the industry. Some may even decide to become qualified jewellers in the future. JANZ and the Retail Institute are currently working together to promote this course to the industry and hope that all jewellery retailers get in behind it. Ideally we would like a sponsor to provide a scholarship fund that could be used to supplement our JANZ members’ cost of putting a staff member on the course. For further information contact the Retail Institute on 0800 486 738 or phone Brenda at JANZ on 09 845 3564 or go to

Russell Sinclair Executive Director JANZ Northern Regional Manager New Zealand Retailers Association


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Inspired by Nature By Elizabeth Hoy

New Zealand’s Amanda Kruszona returns to the jewellery industry inspired by the beauty and elegance of niobium.

Thirty years ago, Californian university graduates Holly Hosterman and Paul “Yashi” Lubitz combined their talents and ideas to create a jewellery design business, Holly Yashi. They transformed their one-car garage into a workshop, and designed pieces from their kitchen table. Initially working in brass and silver, Holly discovered niobium and her imagination was sparked by the vibrant colours which the seemingly dull grey metal can produce. Inspired by nature, her designs are intricate and distinctive, and the company is renowned for the development of colouring and embossing techniques. The Holly Yashi range now includes around 1000 styles of necklaces, earrings and bracelets, all handmade in small batches from their now warehouse-sized studio in Redwood Coast town Arcata. Just over a year ago, half a world away in New Zealand’s north island, Amanda Kruszona was contemplating making her own jewellery line and surfing the internet for inspiration. She came across some Holly Yashi earrings and was hooked. After contacting Holly Yashi, she was granted exclusive distribution rights for Australia and New Zealand, and formed Amakris. Now she shares more than a passion for jewellery with Holly and Paul, starting with her company’s joint name. “The name came from my husband. My name is Amanda and his is Kris,” she explained. Amanda first joined the jewellery industry 15 years ago, when she and Kris opened the first of five jewellery shops. She was also a part-time special needs teacher’s aide, but has given this away to concentrate on building the Holly Yashi distribution network. “I stock this as it is very different to what is on the market, and it is a well made product,” said Amanda. “Holly and Paul, the owners, have a great flair for colour and design and do it very well.” Amakris launched Holly Yashi in Australia by exhibiting at the JAA trade fair in Sydney. “I had five stores here in New Zealand and came home with 17 stores in Australia, and this has now grown,” said Amanda.


jewellers trade - November 2011

Amanda and Kris’s two teenagers pitched in to “make it happen”. “My husband and I designed all the stands at the show, then he made all the boards to display the product on. It took us a good six months from start to finish to get it right. Amazing what you can do in your kitchen.” Amanda is confident that the Holly Yashi brand of niobium jewellery will be as well known locally as it is in the USA, particularly the popular earring ranges as “they are so different and look fantastic, and are at a great price point. This product sells itself”. She also believes Amakris will continue to go from strength to strength as “we run on honesty and will try any way we can to help and be flexible with clients”. Add to this their motto “bite off more than you can chew, and chew really fast”, and it appears Amakris have hit upon the formula for success.

What is niobium? Niobium is a lightweight grey metal with a chequered history. Discovered in 1801 by an English chemist, it was originally named columbium, and confused for many years with the chemically similar tantalum. In 1846, an element was named after Niobe, the Greek goddess of tears and daughter of Tantalus. Two decades later a series of tests confirmed that niobium and columbium were the same thing, and distinct from tantalum. However the two names were used interchangeably for nearly a century, until niobium was officially adopted and given the chemical symbol Nb. Niobium is a rare transition metal, found together with tantalum in minerals from which it needs extracting. It is mainly mined in Minas Gerais, Brazil, and Canada. In Australia, niobium is a by-product of tantalum mining. From the early 20th century, it has been used commercially, mostly in alloys. A small amount improves the strength of steel, which is used for gas pipelines and jet engines. Other applications are MRI scanners, medical devices, electronics, and numismatics (coins). Niobium’s main advantages for jewellery making are its low toxicity, meaning it is hypo-allergenic, and its ability to be coloured by anodisation. It is also lightweight, durable, and corrosion resistant. Anodising produces a transparent oxide film on the surface of the metal, which generates interference colours. The process - dipping the piece in an electrically charged bath - is similar to that used on titanium but is easier and more predictable. The thickness of the oxide layer determines the resulting colours. The colours are chemically stable and will not change, but will eventually wear off. The coating can be applied to the whole piece of jewellery and buffed to remove colour from the higher areas, or sections can be masked to produce patterns and designs. With a melting point of nearly 2500 degrees Celsius, niobium cannot be soldered using conventional jewellery manufacturing equipment. It can, however, be drilled, riveted, drawn into wire, and textured.


jewellers trade - November 2011

Antique Attraction Much has been made of the increased interest in diamonds despite the tough economic times. Sotheby’s Australia’s most recent jewel auctions have demonstrated the trend with very impressive results. Their June and September auctions, held in Sydney and Melbourne respectively, both broke the million dollar mark, showing that diamonds really are forever.

was surrounded by two European cut diamonds combining to 1.4 carats. It sold for $8400.

The Important Jewels auction held in Melbourne in September not only raked in $1.2million with some stunning Bulgari diamond pieces included in the lots, but also some beautifully crafted vintage and antique pieces that were the focus of some very determined bidding battles.

Fashion goes round as it always does and the trend at the moment seems to be toward the 1880s. A selection of rose gold and black enamel foliate motif bangles from the Victorian period faced a battle from several international bidders. They sold for between $1320 and $1680.

Sotheby’s Head of Jewels Hamish Sharma said that many people are adding diamonds and jewels to their investment portfolios. “Jewellery has now become a secure place to park their funds,” he said, but the growing interest in antique jewels attracts a different kind of buyer.

Some elaborately beautiful gentleman’s fob watches from the mid 18th century held their own along side the more modern Rolex and Cartier watches which all fetched prices at the top end of their estimates.

Antique jewellery at the Sotheby’s sale ranged from the 1850s up to the 1970s and buyers seemed to be attracted to bold designs as well as interesting gems. An emerald and diamond ring dating from the early 20th century was a heavily contested prize with seven phone bidders vying for the sale. The octagonal cut emerald weighed approximately three carats and

While many of the larger diamonds are probably destined for dark vaults, the antique and vintage pieces are more likely to be purchased for their style.

Sotheby’s next Important Jewels sale is scheduled for 6 December in Sydney.

Phone: (03) 9500 2777 Fax: (03) 9500 2788 email:


jewellers trade - November 2011

The Cup The 1888 Melbourne Cup was made in Birmingham and bears the maker’s mark of Frederick Elkington.

For some it’s the frocks and the fascinators, for others it’s the fillies and a flutter, for some it’s just a boozy afternoon off work, but for the team at Hardy Brothers Jewellers, the Melbourne Cup represents over 250 hours of skilled craftsmanship.

In 1891 the prize changed to being a 15-inchhigh trophy showing a Victory figure offering an olive wreath to a jockey. From 1899 the trophy was in the form of silver galloping horse embossed on a 3-foot-long plaque, although it was said to look more like a greyhound by some people.

The first Tuesday in November is a date etched in the national psyche. The Melbourne Cup is the richest “two-mile” handicap in the world, and one of the richest turf races anywhere, and the entire country stops to watch it. And that’s always been the case. The first race was held in 1861 before a crowd of 4000 people. Just a few years later the Melbourne newspaper Argus reported on 3 November 1865, “Owing to the races, little business was transacted in the city yesterday after the hour of noon. The banks closed at half past twelve o’clock and the law courts rose at two.” The first trophy awarded in 1861 was a gold watch, along with some ‘modest prize money’. In 1865 a silver bowl was manufactured in England, with two ornate handles with a horse and rider on top. The following year an ornate silver cup depicting Alexander taming the horse was presented. There was then a period of depression years when a trophy wasn’t presented, until 1876 when Edward Fischer, an immigrant from Austria, produced the first Australian-made gold trophy. It had two handles and an engraving of a horse race set at Flemington.

The last Melbourne Cup trophy manufactured in England was made for the 1914 event. It was a chalice centred on a long base which had a horse at each end. A large rose bowl trophy was presented 1915–1918 and the current loving cup design was introduced in 1919. These days the purse is the richest prize in Australian sport ($6million in 2010). The 2011 Emirates Melbourne Cup trophy is created from 2,340 grams of solid Australian 18ct yellow gold and is valued at over $175,000. Since 1973 the winning trainer and jockey have also received miniature replicas of the cup which increases the value of the trophy prize.

Trophies through time, from the top: 1865, 1888 and 2010.

Hardy Brothers Jewellers CEO Stuart Bishop and his team of craftsmen are proud to be the official makers of the Cup for yet another year. Their own business has a history slightly longer than the race itself, with their first store opening its doors in Sydney in 1854.


November 3-6 International Jewellery & Watch Vietnam Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam   November 10-13 International Exhibition of Jewellery & Watch ‘Sjaj’ Novi Sad, Serbia   November 16-19 Jewellery Expo Kyiv, Ukraine   November 22-26 International Jewellery and Watch Show Abu Dhabi, UAE   November 22-26 Jewellery Arabia Manama, Bahrain   November 24-27 JMA Hong Kong Hong Kong, China   November 26-27 Gemmins Athens, Greece


December 1-4 Bijoux Expo Turkey Istanbul, Turkey   December 2-5 China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair Shanghai, China   December 9-11 Mumbai Jewellery & Gem Fair Mumbai, India   December 23-26 Jaipur Jewellery Show Jaipur, India


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Relaxing ... The Lone Ranger and Tonto went camping in the desert. After they got their tent all set up, both men fell sound asleep. Some hours later, Tonto wakes the Lone Ranger and says, ‘Kemo Sabe, look towards sky. What you see?’ ‘The Lone Ranger replies, ‘I see millions of stars.’ ‘What that tell you?’ asked Tonto. The Lone Ranger ponders for a minute then says, ‘Astronomically speaking, it tells me there are millions of galaxies and potentially billions of planets. Astrologically, it tells me that Saturn is in Leo. Time wise, it appears to be approximately a quarter past three in the morning. Theologically, the Lord is all-powerful and we are small and insignificant. Meteorologically, it seems we will have a beautiful day tomorrow. What’s it tell you, Tonto?’ ‘You dumber than buffalo dung. It means someone stole the tent.’

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Jewellers Trade - 11 November 2011  
Jewellers Trade - 11 November 2011  

Jewellers Trade Magazine - November 2011