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March 2012

V I N A C A P T I V AT E

www.vinajeweller y.com.au


DSM (P acific) Pty . Ltd. Suite 909-910, Trust Building, 155, King Street, Sydney, NSW 2000. Australia.

Tel.: (61-2) 9232 1410/1415 Fax: (61-2) 9232 1412 Email: info@dsmpacific.com W ebsite: www .dsmpacific.com


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jewellers trade - March 2012

inside... 32

regulars News

COVER:

Vina Jewellery www.vinajewellery.com.au jewellers trade magazine ABN: 41 143 385 895 PO Box 69, Camden NSW 2570

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Bits and Pieces New Products DDCA News

Rocking with Made in Earth On the Road

Enquires: info@jewellerstrade.com.au Web: www.jewellerstrade.com.au

features

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Tools of the Trade Diary

Editor Jo Thompson 0408 468 512 editor@jewellerstrade.com.au

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Tel: 0431 844 903 Fax: (02) 8078 4722 Subscription enquires: www.jewellerstrade.com.au

Managing Director Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903 jeremy@jewellerstrade.com.au

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Directory

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Washed up in the Waves GAA News On Show

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Maine Tourmaline Computer Crime

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Contributing Writers Sharm Aboosally Cheryl Harty Elizabeth Hoy Michael Rees Art design@jewellerstrade.com.au Advertising Sales Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903 sales@jewellerstrade.com.au

DISCLAIMER: This publication may not be reproduced in whole or part without the written permission of the Publisher. Articles express the opinions of the authors and are not necessarily those of the Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or service in this magazine does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. All information is copyright.

The year is just begun and already it is busy. The Hong Kong show opened with strong traffic and a record number of exhibitors. Asian demand for gold and diamonds continues to top all the trends. Baselworld kicks off soon, and this month sees two fairs in Australia – the Melbourne and Brisbane fairs. It will be interesting to see if the footfall in both those fairs has an impact on the number of fairs that will grace the eastern states next year. This year take a look at technology to reduce your overheads and make sure you’re running at the best possible cost. We have a new advertiser - Unifier 2 - who can reduce the cost of fax line rental and make business on the move a much smoother (and cheaper) experience with a service that can send both voice messages and faxes to email. No paper, no ink costs, no fax machine or answering machine to repair and all straight to your inbox. For those who have email to direct to your smartphone it’s an absolute breeze. (It’s working really well in our office!) It’s worth a look and with a free trial, who could argue? To those who are losing the Pandora brand, we’d love to hear your thoughts on the matter. Give us a call or an email (editor@jewellerstrade.com.au) with any comment or question you’d like to ask of Pandora. We’ve sent the company a long list of questions of our own and will be sharing their response with you next month. In the meanwhile, focus on the strengths within your own business, and remember, there are many other fine brands to replace them!


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jewellers trade - March 2012

News 8 Carat Cupcake

Only in America. A gourmet cupcake bakery in Pennsylvania approached a local jeweller with the notion of designing a $55,000 red velvet cupcake topped with an 8 carat diamond ring for Valentine’s Day. Jeweller Barry Maglin said, “We decided the 8ct diamond would be the perfect accessory for the promotion. You don’t see a diamond like that everyday.” And you certainly don’t see them popping out of cakes too often. A Texan man sprang for the sparkling snack a few days before Valentine’s Day with plans of giving it to his wife with some roses. The store only designed one bejewelled cupcake for this year’s Valentine’s Day, but they plan on offering more options for the future. Maglin added, “We’re looking at developing ideas for more affordable diamond cupcakes next year.”

Profits Up

Last month jewellery maker and retailer Michael Hill International posted an 11.5 per cent increase in interim net profit with improved sales at its New Zealand, Australian and Canadian outlets, although US operations still lagged. The company reported a net profit of $26.3 million for the six months to December 31, up from $23.6m in the same period a year ago. Operating revenues came in at $288.8m, up 7.3 per cent on last year. The jeweller said revenue from its New Zealand operations was NZ$60.9m, up 8.5 per cent compared with last year, with same store sales up 9.2 per cent. Australian stores saw sales rise 4.4 per cent to A$147.1m ($188.6m), although on a same store basis sales fell 1.5 per cent compared with last year, with one outlet closing and four new ones opening.


Phone: (03) 9500 2777 Fax: (03) 9500 2788 email: sales@amimports.com


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jewellers trade - March 2012

News China and India go for Gold

The World Gold Council reported last month that China’s gold demand last year reached 769.8 tons. That’s 20% up on the previous year. The leap has been driven by an increasing need for jewellery and investment. China’s jewellery demand grew in every quarter last year, and the country’s jewellery market became the biggest in the world for the second half of 2011. The report also said that the global demand for gold in 2011 reached just over 4,067 tons. That’s about $205billion - the first time the planet has spent over $200billion for bullion in a year. China and India topped the market, generating 55% of global jewellery demand and 49% of global demand. Europe also showed a strong surge in demand. Germany and Switzerland were the main drivers in the trend as the eurozone remains in turmoil and asset protection continued to be a priority.

You want sauce with that?

The NCJV reports on a security issue for reps and others out on the road. In a style very reminiscent of the eastern European thief gangs, a Sydney man was accosted in the CBD as he walked from one wholesaler to another. Tapped on the shoulder by a very well dressed European gentleman who seemed quite concerned and persistant, our hero was asked what was wrong with his back. Ducking into a building to get away the man discovered his back had been covered with tomato sauce. It’s most likely the sauce and the concerned gentleman were a distraction, and another member of the team was standing by to snatch whatever valuables he was carrying. It’s a technique that is well known to anyone who has worked in Europe, however it is a new twist on a familiar theme here in Australia. Safety and security are important issues for all of us, and sharing these stories helps build awareness.


Preferred Supplier

www.ellanicollections.com.au 02 9899 1525 Rhodium plated 925 sterling silver set with cubic zirconias


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jewellers trade - March 2012

News Mother of Pearl Thermometer

Nacre – or mother of pearl – as artisans and scientists know, is one of nature’s amazing materials. Composed mostly of the mineral aragonite, nacre is 3,000 times more fracture resistant than aragonite itself due to nacre’s internal crystal architecture. A new report from the University of Wisconsin-Madison shows that nacre can also be deployed in the interest of science as a hard-wired thermometer revealing both the temperature and ocean depth at which the material formed. The study was conducted using mother of pearl from modern molluscs but nacre is widespread in the fossil record going back 450 million years. If the science holds true, mother of pearl will become a paleo-thermometer capable of revealing important data about the temperature of oceans past and present.

Thieves at the Fair

Two people were arrested on the opening day of the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show after trying to steal a 5.5-carat, HK$1.5 million diamond. The men, from mainland China, aged 33 and 39, were nabbed as they were about to leave the convention and exhibition center, Wan Chai, after staff became suspicious of their behavior. Police said they found the real diamond and a fake on the men, who entered the fair 45 minutes after it opened and managed to make exhibitors suspicious within moments. A record 3,100 exhibitors from 48 countries took part in the show this year.


R U O Y K SIN O T N I H TEET

Y R E L L JEWE

ES

URS O C E N I W ONL

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The GAA in conjunction with the JAA bring you new online courses, designed to introduce you to the fascinating world of gemstones and jewellery anywhere and anytime

have fun, learn and explore For more information and the Online Courses go to http://www.gem.org.au and follow the Education link Online Courses Available: Introduction to Diamonds - Introduction to Coloured Gemstones Introduction to Daily Jewellery Retail Business - Introduction to Jewellery

Passionately educating the industry and consumers about gemstones

www.gem.org.au


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jewellers trade - March 2012

Bits and Pieces By Michael Rees The UK Telegraph reports on a novel approach to crime fighting. The head of the English National Crime Authority (NCA) Keith Bristow wants to go after low value items such as motor vehicles and pieces of jewellery that are worn by crooks. He reckons that these trinkets stand out as an advertisement to younger people that crime pays. He also feels that it gives the mistaken belief to the community as a whole that these bad guys are bullet proof from the law. Taking away these items, even though many of them would not be of much value, could have the desired effect. “The impact on very young people who can sometimes be seduced into idolising these people would be very, very important.”

While on the subject of law enforcement, the JSA in America has put out warnings to their members about the dangers of the so called “Gypsy Gangs” who have been ripping off jewellers all over the USA. They use scams such as crowd scenes where up to ten people will go into a shop, distract the staff, then help themselves to the merchandise. The JSA warns storekeepers to be particularly vigilant, do not leave safes open, keep keys out of reach and do not allow any person to go to the rear of the shop. Women involved usually wear long free following dresses and have scarves around their faces acting as a disguise. The other MO is far more sinister with well-organised gangs staking out target addresses and using weapons to get their loot. They target up-market establishments and they do their homework. The gangs are highly organised and have been known to operate at jewellery conventions and fairs. Australia is not exempt from this type of crime with reports of similar gangs operating but they are more into the con type crime with the elderly a favoured target. Recent events indicate that these gangs could be venturing into the drug trade. Lets hope that they do not expand into the jewellery business.

More on crime, this time from my favourite comedian Rita Rudner. “My husband gave me a necklace. It’s fake. I requested fake. Maybe I’m paranoid but in this day and age, I don’t want something around my neck that’s worth more than my head.”

Quotes from the real world: Rapaport Trade Wire published a gem this month that might just about sum up the economic woes of the USA. “When gold was $300 to $400 an ounce, nobody was buying yellow gold. Now that it is over $1700 an ounce yellow is really sought after. People talk about the wealth gap and boy have I seen it here. Fifteen years ago, my customers had $500 bucks to buy their wife a nice present. They don’t have that anymore. And the guys who had $5,000 to spend have $50,000 now,” said Tom Dixon, Schwanke-Koster Jewelers, Wisconsin. It sounds like Tom is right on the money when it comes to the division of wealth in America. But are we seeing those trends DownUnder too?


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jewellers trade - March 2012

New Products Trends, brands and designers you don’t want to miss.

Hamilton Hall www.hamiltonhall.com.au - 07 3843 2444

Trollbeads Spring Collection www.scanlanandco.com.au - 03 9553 4033

Breuning Jewellery Australia www.osjag.com.au - 02 9630 6619

Vina Jewellery www.vinajewellery.com.au - 02 9713 5486

GUESS Watches www.designa.com.au - 02 8543 4600


Suite 1202, 227 Collins Street Melbourne Victoria Australia ph: +61 3 9654 1550 fax: +61 3 9654 0631 email: hamid@vicnet.net.au

march 2012 2012 has been hectic already, with consistent sales of fine gems. We have just returned from a buying trip and are excited about the range and quality of the new stock.

Sapphire 3.55ct

Hamid Bros can supply in-house certificates on gems purchased from us. This provides a lasting record and assurance to you and your clients with their purchase.

8.1 x 8.0mm

This Sapphire is a bright, fine blue in a square radiant cut. A popular size, shape and colour, this gem won’t be in stock long.

Pink Sapphire 2.26ct

certificate of

8.4 x 6.0mm

An affordable alternative to pink diamond, this Sapphire is exceptionally clean and bright; the design possibilities are endless.

Peridot 9.72ct

12.9 x 11.4mm certificate no: s113

This beautiful gem from Burma is rare in large sizes and this is a fine specimen.

Aquamarine 13.31ct

12.9 x 11.4mm

A fine colour and loupe clean this magnificent gem will make an eye catching statement for any design.

identification:

Natural Sapphire (Unheated)

origin:

Sri Lanka

weight:

6.52 carats

shape:

Cushion

dimensions:

10.34 x 9.90 x 7.09mm

colour decription: Bright light pink.

Ruby 2.33ct

8.3 x 6.3mm

This Ruby glows! It is a rare and sought after size in an attractive colour with blinding brilliance.

Purple Sapphire 2.77ct

cut:

Well cut, good proportions.

clarity:

Fine feathers, tiny crystal and needle inclusions under 10x magnification. No indication of heat treatment.

7.7 x 7.1mm

Beautifully faceted, this Sapphire is unheated and is a wonderful rich purple colour and together with its soft cushion shape you can’t go wrong. suite 1202, 227 collins street melbourne australia phone 03 9654 1550 facsimile 03 9654 0631

Garnet & Diamond Ring A striking set of Spessartite Garnets accented with diamonds and set in 18ct gold.

Tanzanite 11.51ct

15.6 x 12.0mm

A rich vibrant gem, this Tanzanite will make a grand statement for the wearer.

not actual size

authorised signatures

Grant Hamid FGAA. Dip DT,

date: 30 January 2012

Emerald 1.00ct

8.2 x 6.1mm

Bright, clean and a beautiful colour, what more could you ask for?

supplied by:

Deborah Hamid FGAA. Dip DT


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DDCA News By Rami Baron

What’s happening in the world of diamonds?

When I look across the diamond industry, I see three segments: the rough market, the diamond wholesalers, and the diamond retailers. Let me give you a summary of each of these sectors.

The rough diamond market

The sale of rough diamonds has increased by 25% plus. In terms of diamond caratage that was produced, we are talking close to 100,000,000 carats. In dollar terms this is somewhere around the $20 billion mark! There was definitely a shortfall in rough diamond supply against the increasing demand on a consumer level. Logic leads one to believe that prices would be firmer, and yet this did not pan out. For those who read my previous article about DeBeers and the Oppenheimer family, it’s interesting to see that the big Australian - BHP - are looking to exit the diamond sector. In their case, it is logical. Their diamonds mines are worth 300 to 5000 million dollars, but require the same commitment as their other mining interests. The difference is that with iron ore copper and coal they have values in the 100’s of billions - in fact they are planning to spend 80 billion just on the development of theses sites over the next 5 years.

The international wholesale market

One of the problems that emerged early this year was a fraud investigation which hit the diamond exchange in Israel. The flow on effect was incredible to the point that within the three diamond buildings, which are normally a hive of activity, the trading floor was like a morgue. The leaders of the diamond exchange are in full support of stopping any and all criminal activity of those involved . With the start of Chinese new year diamond houses were very confident that big stones would move. This was not the case and has left a number of major suppliers having to tighten their belts. There was a expectation that the diamond industry would see continual 30% plus growth, which in real terms is unsustainable with the problems that we see happening in Europe. Although actual figures do not exist, anecdotal evidence from my discussions with numerous diamond dealers is that there was a drop in the volume of diamonds imported into Australia in the last 12 months.

The diamond ring store

A new concept diamond jewellery store in the US spent considerable time and money analysing the key ingredients necessary to create the ideal retail environment. The results

are somewhat as expected. Most people still like to buy engagement rings in a beautiful physical environment, as opposed to online. Trust is the number one factor, which is easily achieved by selling well known brands .This is interesting in contrast to Australia where the majority of retailers want to create their own brand, but in reality have little understanding what is involved, and the sort of financial commitment required. A interesting statistic that has come to light is that in the USA is that couples spent $12 billion on engagement rings and wedding bands in 2010, and of that $1.4billion was online sales. The growth and impact of this market segment is staggering. Something for us all to think about, as we tend to parallel the same figures in Australia just divided by 10. We are becoming increasingly aware that often couples are older or going through their second marriage. Current figures suggest that $5200 is the average spend for a diamond ring There is some really positive news. Close to 40% of couples purchased their engagement ring from local and independent jewellers, and they spent on average spend $4000 more than they would from a chain store. The next time a bride-to-be comes into your store and asks about that engagement ring, and you roll your eyes “here we go again ...just looking,” know that an estimated 50% of brides shop for or purchase their engagement rings, and approximately 35% give their partners precise directions on what they want. The moral to the story is that women are telling like it is, and have without doubt the majority influence in the purchase of the engagement ring. Did you know that it is not uncommon for a couple to spend up to 3 months looking for a engagement ring? They may visit 4-6 stores and look at 20-30 rings before they make a decision. Oh, and did I forget the obvious? 80% look online before,during and after purchase. The research suggests that in the US branded mounts without centre stones are the preferred style. In Australia there is a stronger desire for a customized ring, even its just the buyer’s perception that they had some artistic input, as the majority still choose from no more than half a dozen popular designs. Well, that’s a snap shot of where we are as we start the year.

Trade well, Rami Baron.


Gold Price: The New Greek Drama On a world scale, their economy is not a significant one. But it seems that the first item on the agenda in any economic discussion is Greece. You see, in plain terms Greece is bankrupt. For months, the Greeks have been negotiating with the IMF, European Union, European Central Bank (ECB) and private creditors to negotiate a bailout package. Apparently, they have one. But don’t be fooled. This is a short term solution and no amount of austerity measures is going to prevent the inevitable. At the moment, they’ve borrowed from Peter to pay Paul. But at some point, Peter won’t want to lend Greece any more money and won’t grant Greece any more time to repay. Add to that the reality that the Greek economy is shrinking and has been cut off from world capital markets. So, the general consensus is that pretty soon, Greece will default on its debts. So what, you say? A small economy by world standards, will it matter if Greece eventually defaults? The problem is that Greece is just the tip of the economic iceberg. Other European economies continue to deteriorate and the reality is that the fundamentals of the US economy and banking sector aren’t in much better shape. Most world economies have official interest rates that are at or are approaching 0%. So, to avoid a stampede of defaults by the major world economies, the world’s central banks will have only one more credible method to prevent bankruptcy - flood the system with newly printed paper money. The result will be a big push on inflation. Does this mean the end? Should we all pack our bags and escape to the country? Not really. History tells us that life will go on – put simply the world’s governments haven’t got a choice except to make sure that the wheels keep on turning. But what it does mean is that people will turn to gold as a method of protecting their wealth from the ravages of inflation. In economic terms, increased demand for gold means an increased gold price. And for the Aussie jeweller, this presents an opportunity. Gold and other precious metals made into jewellery represent a way of satisfying the need to preserve an inflation resistant “nest egg” while at the same time also satisfying the desires to consume, display wealth and “feel good”. You need look no further than traditional Indian and Chinese culture to see how such an opportunity has manifested itself for the benefit of the local jeweller.

Visit our family at the Melbourne & Brisbane Jewellery Fairs Melbourne 4-5 March Stand A16 Brisbane 25-26 March Stand E32

CASTING & CAD CAM AUSTRALIA WIDE

1300 886 108 www.palloys.com.au

METALS WEDDERS REFINING AUSTRALIA WIDE

1300 883 061 www.agsmetals.com.au www.pjwilliams.com.au

Tap into this logic and see how a troubled world economy can help your business.

Andrew Cochineas

Managing Director Palloys Group (Palloys, AGS Metals, P.J.Williams, Regentco & Goldenage International)

FINDINGS AUSTRALIA WIDE

1300 879 899 www.regentco.com.au


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By Stacey Florescu Creative and Marketing Manager / Gemmologist Made in Earth Creations

Out of this World Gibeon Meteorite Meteorites are among some of the oldest and most rare materials on our earth and have been falling from the sky for eons. Believed to have begun their life as part of the asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter, meteorites are a natural material that has been knocked out of orbit by colliding with other objects. These pieces of celestial debris plummet towards earth at tremendous speeds reaching up to 28,000km per hour, transforming into an intensely burning meteor, or shooting star, for a short moment in time before colliding with the earth. Although there are a large number of sub-types, the three main classifications of meteorites are: Stony Meteorites, Iron Meteorites and Stony-Iron Meteorites. All meteorites contain a large amount of extra-terrestrial nickel and iron and by studying the amount of these metals, as well as visual characteristics, they can be separated into these types. Known as the ‘stone for endurance’ iron meteorites are amongst the densest materials on earth and were once part the hot core of a long vanished planet. With an iron content of 90 - 95% these meteorites are much heavier than any earth rocks. An important iron meteorite to note is the Gibeon Meteorite from a large region of what is present day Namibia, Africa. Although it was used by the Nama people of Gibeon for spear points and tools for thousands of years it was first officially reported in 1838 by Captain J.E Alexander who collected samples for analysis which lead to the discovery of its extraterrestrial nature. By studying the external characteristics and spread of its strewn-field (120km wide and 390km long) it is suggested that the Gibeon meteorite was a single large meteorite that burst high in the atmosphere catapulting fragments in all directions. With chemical constituents of 90% iron, 8% nickel, 0.4% cobalt and 0.04% phosphorus, kamecite and taenite are the two component iron-nickel alloys that exist within the meteorite’s composition and by studying them the structural classes can be determined. One intriguing phenomena of

iron meteorites is an amazing internal structure formed by these two alloys, first described by Count Alois Von Beckh Widmanstätten in the 19th century, as a complex interlocking crystalline pattern and aptly named the Widmanstätten Pattern. Crystallising in an octahedral form the two alloys form a cross-hatching of triangular shapes which vary depending on the direction the meteorite is cut. In order to reveal this remarkable metallic grid the iron meteorite must be cut into a slab, polished and etched in a nitric acid solution. Bunny Bedi, owner and creative director of Made In Earth Creations, shares some of his experiences working with the ancient space rock. “Having a composition of over 90% iron, not only it this one of our heaviest stones but it is also subject to rusting. Not only is each piece etched but the surface must also be protected with a transparent coating.” This additional treatment stops oxygen from contacting the meteorite’s surface and therefore from allowing rust to cover the beautiful patterned surface. Once it has rusted the slice of meteorite must be re-polished and go through the etching process again. Bunny continues, “For this reason it is a delicate process setting these slices without tampering with the coating. Although these meteorites are very hard and strong we must still urge our clients to be careful and treat them no differently to any other piece of jewellery.” Unique to meteorites, the Widmanstätten pattern is formed by the extremely slow cooling of the molten metal alloys at a rate of approximately 1 degree per thousand years. The presence of these patterns is evidence that the heavy iron material is of extraterrestrial origin, as these conditions cannot be reproduced in a laboratory. The Gibeon Meteorite is the perfect example of a fine octahedrite Widmanstätten pattern and although estimated to have collided with the earth’s crust some thirty thousand years ago radiometric dating places the age of crystallisation of the iron-nickel metal at 4 billion years! “Meteorites have become very popular recently and we’ve answered this calling by adding the Gibeon meteorite, Sikhote-alin Meteorite and Libyan Desert Glass to our range in the last twelve months,” says Bunny. “Meteorites portray a masculine quality and have certainly piqued the interest of our clients that stock M.I.E Creation’s men’s jewellery. ” Meteorites are certainly unique and a change from earth created minerals that are most frequently used in jewellery. The universe has always intrigued mankind; its infinite size is more than most of us can comprehend. Occasionally a small fragment of this enormous celestial world zooms into our atmosphere challenging what we know is possible and providing things of beauty that are truly out of this world.


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jewellers trade - March 2012

On The Road

with Colin Berger

Making everyone accountable It is quite clear that much has changed in our industry. In the past most jewellery stores were run by craftspeople - jewellers or watchmakers. Nowadays, there are just as many stores are run by entrepreneurs who have entered the trade without a design or manufacturing background. In times gone by, ‘handmade’ meant hand-crafted in the back room of the shop. These days the same term can mean ‘made in China’. Not only have the industry and the jewellery stores changed but so have the customers and the way in which they shop. Obviously the internet has had a large impact on customer attitudes, but so have many of the typical marketing ploys used by jewellers everywhere. I remember a time when jewellery was considered a luxury purchase, when beautiful pieces of jewellery were presented to the customer on rolls of velvet laid across the counter. People saved their pennies and eyed a piece in the window for months before coming into the store to make the purchase. Fine jewellery carried an aura of luxury and prestige. It is possible that we in the industry have damaged this image. We see today how many jewellery stores continuously offer discounted product, and how customers have been taught that stores must ‘do a deal’ or ‘give a discount’ before they’ll make a purchase. As store owners we know the stress this places on our profit margins, but even customers are becoming aware that this constant bargain offering cannot be genuine. Do buyers really believe those ‘50% off’ tags? Or have they just come to expect them? I was reading an article this morning on the plane about a large retailer with many stores across Australia and it stated that “shoppers have become tired of retailers constantly hanging out their sale banners.” A genuine sale where stores marked down old goods they wanted to clear was always a true sale. Ten years ago when the large department stores had a sale, people lined up at the doors to buy goods. Today customers no longer rush to these sales. Why ? Because they know if they miss this sale there will be another next week. If our industry as a whole stopped the compulsive discounting we see all the time we could lift the image of our product and

change the way the customers view the jewellery industry. I talk to many people whilst on the road, and great discussions often bring great ideas. A client and I were discussing many of the above issues and the following suggestion appeared, using tools we already have in different ways. Imagine all jewellery manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers belonged to an organisation whereby each business is given a membership number. I know this is something the JAA already do, but hear me out. This number becomes a controlling factor in an accreditation system designed to bring honesty, integrity and most importantly accountability back into the jewellery industry. Retailers, wholesalers and manufactures would all be required to display this number at every point in their business. Imagine if customers looked for jewellers with this membership number because they understood those jewellers have met all standards set by the industry. Once they understood these requirements why would they shop at a jeweller that was not a member? I believe it’s all about becoming accountable and offering confidence rather than discounts. Advertise the fact that your membership number appears on all your documents and that you stand by your product. Advertise the fact that even if you have goods in your store that were bought in from wholesalers, manufacturers or even overseas suppliers, your number is still the one on the till slip and your store is therefore still the one to honour and stand by these goods. You will also in turn have the confidence and comfort knowing your local suppliers have also met all standards. The only way this can all work is obviously having set guidelines and rules that need to be met and a penalty system for those who do not meet these requirements either in the form of fines or loss of membership. Let’s clean up our industry and not only make everyone accountable, but also make everything transparent. Is there still an opportunity to make a difference and bring back to the jewellery industry the image and prestige it once enjoyed? I think so. Tell me what you think.


Fantasy Collection

www.ioion.com.au

The Vault Jewellery Distributors Pty Ltd Ph 03 9526 8690 sales@vaultjewellery.com.au www.vaultjewellery.com.au

CO LO UR YO UR LIFE

Original


Washed Up in the Waves By Delia Rothnie-Jones

Did you know that an expensive platinum ring sounds almost the same as a bottle top to a metal detector? Delia Rothnie-Jones talks to the guys who find the jewellery we lose on the beach.

While platinum sounds like beach junk, a silver ring delivers a nice clear sound that the detector guys can recognise easily. As for gold, the higher carat the gold, the clearer the ping. Non-metallic jewellery, be however beautiful it is, doesn’t stand much chance at all. All part of the knowledge of the scattered breed of treasure hunters who you will see plodding slowly up and down beaches all over the world with their weirdly pinging metal detectors, finding lost valuables, special mementoes and of course lots of junk – bottle tops, picnic cutlery, old coins, keys, batteries... Chad and Anna were on honeymoon in the Turks and Caicos Islands in the Caribbean a couple of years ago. On their very first day they lost their wedding ring in the sea. A week later they were about to leave and still hadn’t found it. That’s when they ran into a man with a long white beard at the local bar – and to their amazement and delight, he produced their ring – slightly scratched from the sand but otherwise intact. And he didn’t even ask for any money. The bearded Santa figure was David Stone, one of the most successful of the treasure hunters. It’s a hobby, although once people know the guys who do it, they approach them for their skills. The smaller operators might keep their haul in their front room as a trophy cabinet they can take pleasure from, whilst those who have done it for years make it a point of pride to return the jewellery to the owners if they can. David Stone has accumulated enough valuables over his 20 years to make it worth keeping his finds in a bank vault. He has a website where he showcases his finds and invites people to reclaim lost items if they can ID it properly (www.ilostmyjewellery.com). Amongst the lost jewellery – bracelets, earrings, necklaces, medallions, rings – the most common loss is rings – wedding rings, engagement rings, anniversary rings, valuable rings, sentimental rings, heirlooms – you name it, people lose it. You might wonder why people wear their most valuable possessions in the sea, but many of us have a ring that we never take off.

Top: David Stone hard at work in Turks and Caicos Islands (Picture: Lynn Robinson.) Below: A good day’s detecting for David.


We have a sentimental belief that it represents an eternal never-to-be-disturbed bond … but King Neptune is a wily old soul and his watery claws grip those rings, shrink our fingers and slip it over our knuckles with not even a whisper in the surf. The key to finding it is time and the back story. The quicker the loss is discovered the more chance the detectors have of turning it up. And the more exact the descriptions of how it was lost, the more they can turn sleuth and retrace the process. A New Zealand hunter recalls the time he tracked down a woman’s lost wedding ring in her back garden: “She had lost it at night while trying to catch her cat. I got her to walk through the previous night’s dramas - at one point the cat had gone beneath a child’s play house - not much room - the lady actually put her hands on the ground showing me how she had looked under it. I turned the detector on and literally 5 seconds later - one gold ring returned! Quite a lot of this ring finding thing is getting info out of people. I could have spent all day checking this person’s whole garden.” Interestingly, men are far more likely to lose stuff than women, and far less likely to know where. David Stone describes his searches: “Knowing what someone was doing when they lost it, how deep they were, what date and time, their height, ring details such as metal and weight, all factor into where it would be. And women seem to know exactly where they lost it – men just seem to think they lost it where they happen to be at the time they realise it is missing – and that is not usually in the same place. I find a woman’s ring in a third of the time it takes to find a man’s ring.” And another detector reckons that just occasionally it’s not quite above board: “Jewellery lost in people’s gardens is usually pretty straight forward unless it’s an “insurance job”and I suspect some are. The genuine person will follow your every move. Where I feel it’s a bit dodgy is where they don’t watch.” As for Chad and Anna, they remain deeply grateful to David – and even value the scratch marks left on the ring as a reminder of what might have been lost were it not for that marvellous detector.

Right: Brett Thom of Auckland keeps his stash in a display case. www.theringfinders.com/Brett.Thom Below: Wesley Bauerle of www.goldbuddies.com sells a selection of his monthly find to fund his car repairs.

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jewellers trade - March 2012

Tools of the Trade The Changing Face of Polishing Compounds in the Jewellery Industry

Keiran Simpson takes a look at grit, grease, friction and mess, and how technology has provided today’s jeweller with sophisticated choices for polishing.

Friction and heat Many jewellers during their apprenticeship and into the early years in the trade will have used the staples for polishing gold and silver jewellery: pre-polishing with Tripoli and final polishing with Rouge. These grease based compounds and the specialist mops used with them produced an acceptable and consistent result. Jewellers, apprentices and hobbyists today have a much broader choice in the polishing process with final results regularly better than that achieved using the limited older style compounds. Today, the jewellery trade has access to synthetic and emulsion style polishes in addition to the traditional grease based compounds. Also there is a larger variety of pre-polishing and polishing mops, brushes and buffs many of which have been designed specifically for single metals such as the very difficult platinum or palladium compounds.

Most of the grease based compounds use a natural grit, for example, rouge uses finely ground iron oxide as the polishing media. These traditional grease based compounds required heat from friction to melt and transfer compound from the bar to the buff. Once on the buff, pressure of the work piece against the rotating buff generates enough heat to release and spread the grit on the buff enabling it to do its work. A major problem using these grease based compounds is the mess created in applying it to the buff as well as the residue left on the work from polishing. Also these traditional polishing compounds required a reasonable amount of contact and pressure of the work piece to the buff for polishing to occur with the buff doing almost as much of the work as the compound. The high speed required to generate the heat to release the grit means that using them with a flexible shaft or a micromotor


March 2012 - jewellers trade

is not only messy but also flings compound chemicals close to the face of the jeweller requiring the use of specialised personal protective equipment (face masks, eye protection, etc.), more frequent laundering of protective clothing and very hot water with aggressive solvents to remove the residue from the work piece. All of which have their down side.

Synthetic grits

Synthetic grits can be manufactured to a consistent and very fine size enabling a higher final polish to be achieved. Synthetic carrier compounds that do not require heat or melting to adhere to the buff or to release the grit for polishing also means less pressure is needed when using the buff, less compound is used, less mess is left on the buff, less cleaning of the work piece after polishing, and a slower speed can be used when using the flexible-shaft, micromotor, or bench lathe to polish the piece. Additionally, these compounds are developed to meet the strict safety requirements necessary for use in the jewellery, dental and medical industries. This means that most are a lot safer to use when polishing. As both the grit and the carrier medium are synthetic, manufacturers are now able to make combinations that can produce an exceptional polish on specific metals and materials used in jewellery such as titanium, platinum, acrylic, stainless steel, gold and silver. Some synthetic compounds now readily available are the Luxor range, Polistar range, Polinum and Blue Hubble.

Emulsion based polish

One of the very latest additions to the polishing ensemble is the emulsion based polish. Carrying the grit in an emulsion provides for the use of even finer grit size, application of

much smaller amounts of compound for each job and the ability to use very light pressure all of which allows you to achieve a mirror finish. You save by using less compound, your buff lasts longer and work pieces stay cleaner, there is very little fly off from the buff reducing the laundering requirements and while personal protective equipment should still be used it also benefits from less wear and tear. The grit is immediately available on the buff to produce a mirror finish time after time. Emulsions are well suited to polishing with a flexible shaft or micromotor. For the individual handmade article you can achieve that point of difference that separates mass production from artisan. The synthetic compounds and the emulsions work particularly well using mounted buffs in the fexible-shaft or micromotor, enabling the discerning jeweller to do more preparation and polishing work from the bench.

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jewellers trade - March 2012

GAA Conference and Post Conference GAA Tour The GAA conference will be held 16th – 20th of May. The Saturday Seminars include talks by leading Australian gemologists Gayle Sutherland, Tony Smallwood, Rossario Autare and Internationally famous gemologists Vincent Pardieu, Jack Ogden and Robert Coenraads. The seminars will be followed by a Gala dinner for the Diploma Graduates.  

Field Trip

The post conference field trip (21st to 26th May 2012) to New South Wales’ New England region is being organised to explore a treasure-trove of gemstones such as sapphire, zircon, rhodonite, nephirite, serpentine, prase, jasper plus gold and other metal ores. The tour will include plenty of opportunities to fossick as well as a visit to the largest operating sapphire mine in Australia.   The 200km long Devonian Carboniferous Peel Fault formed when a massive portion of eastern Australia collided with the then existent coastline in the Tamworth area. A huge area of deep sea floor chert and limestone beds were crushed between the colliding continents and pushed into a Himalaya-style mountain range, which has long since eroded away. Today semi-precious and ornamental gemstones abound in the area.   Later, Tertiary Hawaiian-style shield volcanoes punched through the east Australian crust along the entire length of the Great Divide erupting explosive tuffs and breccias as well as basalt lavas. These rocks, rich in sapphires, zircons and spinels, shed their gemstones into ancient rivers draining the volcanoes. The Central Province volcano in the New England was one of the most important of these, giving birth to the Australian sapphire industry.  

Are You Interested in Coming?

If so please send an email expressing your interest to nsw@gem.org.au with the subject field marked “New England tour” and you will be advised of further details when they come to hand.   See www.gem.org.au for full details. Tour Organizers Robert Coenraads & Terry Coldham.

Pirates and Pearls Gala It’s on again! Following a sell out event last year, the Victorian Division of the GAA will be hosting the 2012 Pirates and Pearls Gala Dinner on Friday, March 23rd at Waterfront Venues Docklands. Over 100 lucky guests attended last years Gala with many saying it was the best industry event they had attended in a long, long time! The event will see the Victorian 2011 GAA graduates presented with their Diplomas and offers an opportunity to acknowledge and celebrate the hard work they’ve put into their studies. In addition to recognising the efforts of our students, including several of Australia’s top ranked graduates, the Victorian GAA is proud to be supporting the Yalari Foundation. Yalari offers educational opportunities to many of the brightest young indigenous students from remote communities across the country and we are glad to have been able to donate over $7000 following last year’s Gala. Booking forms available online at www.gem.org.au For details on sponsorship packages and ticket sales please contact: Anna Navarro GAA (VIC) Office Manager E vic@gem.org.au T 03 9326 6160


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jewellers trade - March 2012

On Show By Elizabeth Hoy

Anna Davern Contemporary jeweller and artist Anna Davern showcased her talents at Studio 20/17 in Sydney’s Danks St art precinct, in February. Her solo exhibition, titled Fe Au, features breastplates made from rusted steel and gold, in the shape of Australia, a map of Tasmania neckpiece, and several rings. Anna’s work explores the concept of Australian identity, and the role jewellery has to play in its expression. The pieces are inspired by the landscapes from which the materials originate – the red centre and the golden sands of the continent’s edges. She explains that gold and steel are both tied to cultural myths and how Australians define themselves: the egalitarian heritage that can be traced back to the opportunities of the Gold Rush, and the distrust of authority represented by Ned Kelly’s armour. The designs include the outline of a picket fence to represent the darker side of the suburban ideal, Western Australia separated from the other states by a gold spiral, and a patchwork depicting dwellings pieced together from available materials. Anna has a degree in Jewellery and Object Design from Sydney College of the Arts, and a master’s degree from the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology. She currently works in Melbourne, and regularly exhibits in galleries around Australia.

Anna Davern: Iron Australia pendants. Photos: Elizabeth Hoy


Hannah Carlyle: Facet Pendant - hand pigmented resin, sterling silver Facet Necklace - hand pigmented resin, sterling silver, oxidised, rope Facet Earrings - hand pigmented resin, sterling silver. Photos: Kara Growden

Hannah Carlyle Designer Hannah Carlyle aims to elevate plastic into the realm of the artistic and precious, in her new exhibition “Rare Little Gem” which opens in March. Working from Adelaide’s JamFactory studios and galleries, Hannah draws her inspiration from the Art Deco period and bakelite jewellery. “I want to change people’s ideas about plastic jewellery, what it stands for and what it should look like. Plastic is perceived as a non-precious and throw-away commodity”. Hannah’s unique hand-pigmented resin pieces are shaped as faceted gems, and are reminiscent of geological rock strata or even a “delicious layered cake”. She has only partial control over the layers and patterns of colour, unable to predict the exact outcome. After completing a Bachelor of Visual Arts and Applied Design degree, Hannah joined JamFactory, a South Australian Government initiative which supports and promotes talented craftspeople and designers.

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jewellers trade - March 2012

The Silvermist Express

By Elizabeth Hoy

Tasmanian jeweller Dean Walker is one of three Australians whose award-winning creations will be on show for the world to see at the 2012 Academy Awards in February. Rio Tinto Diamonds announced the winners of their inaugural Global Design Competition in November, giving them just over two months to turn the drawings they submitted into spectacular finished jewels. Contestants from the USA, Canada, Hong Kong, China, India and Australia vied for the top gongs across four categories using Rio Tinto Diamond’s products, with a Master Craftsman and Rising Star level in each category. Sydney designer Nadia Neuman took out the Sustainable Jewellery master craftsman honour, for “Tyger, Tyger”, a functioning fan made from sustainable materials to “remind users of the need to care for the Earth”. Stacey Lindsell, from Western Australia, was the Champagne Diamonds rising star winner. Her bracelet, “Sturt’s Desert Rose”, features diamonds graduating in colour set into gold petals and leaves. Dean Walker received the accolade as a master craftsman in the Silvermist Diamonds section, for his “Silvermist Express” bangle – a pave-set train which moves around a track. A jeweller for 20 years, Dean entered the competition so he could “be more creative”. Not expecting to win, he “jumped for joy and drank champagne all day” after being notified. Dean describes his bangle as “a futuristic train” which was inspired by 20th Century comic book artists who “in tough times looked to the future”. Although meticulously planned, Dean said the bangle “tells me how it wants to be made. It’s taken me on the journey instead.” He made a cardboard model of the piece to calculate the amount of gold he needed to order. Refiners Morris and Watson supplied over 1300 grams of their standard nickel-free 18 carat white gold in four 0.8mm thick sheets, which the components for the train and rails were cut from. “A lot came back,” said Morris and Watson’s national manager, Ray Mooney, perhaps an understatement as the finished bangle weighs around 240 grams. Rare earth magnets allow the train to stay on top of the bangle unless the wearer wants it to move, and an internal cuff keeps it in place on the wrist. Around 700 Silvermist diamonds, weighing a total of 17 carats, are incorporated into the train. Named for their natural silvergrey colour, these diamonds are primarily mined in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia. Dean, who is “very happy” with the final result of his hard work and late nights, is hoping that sharing the spotlight with celebrities at the glittering Academy Awards will result in media exposure for his business, and even a sale.


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Maine

Tourmaline A Niche Marketing Success Story While collectors and hobbyists had long prized tourmaline for its variety of colour (including bicolour and dichroic specimens) nobody in an industry determined to sell diamonds, rubies, and sapphires really understood how to market the gem.

By Robert Palmer

However, in recent years as the jewellery industry has expanded to target a broader audience, tourmaline has gained acceptance and has helped savvy jewellers carve out a profitable niche. So, how do you sell stones your customers know very little about?

Create a Market Where None Exists The state of Maine is one small corner of the United States, roughly one-third the size of New Zealand with a total population just shy of Auckland’s. The state is remote, its retail businesses survive on seasonal sales, and its jewellers have learned a powerful lesson about niche marketing. Maine’s first tourmaline strike was in 1820 on a mountain near the small town of Paris. However, at the time nobody (other than a few hobbyists) really cared. Then, in 1971, the state adopted the gem as its official mineral. Shortly thereafter (1974) the “mother lode” of tourmaline was discovered in another mountain in the western Maine town of Newry. Tourmaline, formerly less-than-desirable and relegated to the roadside tourist traps or junk shops that dot the scenic byways, took on a new importance. An injection of advertising dollars from an active business development program at the state level coincided with this interest and “genuine” jewellery shops began to cash in. How? The entire region is a destination location. Summer months see a drastic influx of people from all over the world. It’s the perfect place to emphasise the “local” appeal of tourmaline. And that’s what they did. Roadside signs, television and radio commercials, store displays – they all helped turn tourmaline into a sort of mineral mascot.

Pyramid Studios, a family owned shop operated by brothers Dave and Don Herrington, has benefited from the rise of tourmaline. The storefront has been located in historic downtown Ellsworth since 1982. While tourmaline is far from the only stone Pyramid Studios sells, they always include it in any marketing materials or promotions they create because it is so iconic in Maine. For Dave and Don tourmaline fills a gap in their product line. While higher end pearls, sapphires, and diamonds feature as their big ticket pieces, tourmaline “offers a nice price point,” according to Don. A sort of “middle ground” option for customers looking to buy a nice piece at an affordable price. In fact, the semi-precious stone is really a “one-two punch.” Not only is the pricing comfortable for most budgets, the variety of colours means the stone is very versatile.


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jewellers trade - March 2012 From pinks and greens down through the reds, browns, yellows, and bicolour variants of them all, tourmaline’s pallet is as varied as one might need. Unfortunately, therein lay one of the problems. “Finding matched pairs of stones is frustrating, at times,” Don said, pointing to a display of tourmaline earrings. Because of the stone’s dichroic properties, it’s necessary to examine each pair under multiple light sources to ensure a match. “It’s much easier for a customer to buy a pair of earrings and match a pendant later than the other way around.” And colour is a main driving factor behind pricing and availability as well. “Ten or fifteen years ago, the pinks were the hot colour,” Don said when asked about historical trends. However, the market has shifted and now greens or bicolour “watermelon” tourmaline is the hot ticket. However, reserves of genuine Maine Tourmaline are dwindling. Other than a recent discovery of Eureka Blue tourmaline (a difficult to cut deep blue stone) “most of the stones being sold today are from that 1974 strike.” This shortage in local stones has led some jewellers to look elsewhere. Roughly a third the cost of Maine tourmaline, Brazilian stones come in larger quantities and a wider array of colours and cuts. This discrepancy is temptation enough for some shops to misrepresent their stones as genuine Maine tourmaline when they are actually sourced elsewhere. These unscrupulous jewellers identify the tourmaline as “Maine’s official stone” thereby enhancing the connection without advertising the origin. Unfortunately, there is little anyone can do to verify the source of an individual stone. While different regions produce unique colour variants – the brilliant blue Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline, for example – chemical analysis leads to inconclusive results at best. Still, Pyramid Studios and other Maine jewellers have continued to thrive, marketing genuine local tourmaline as “a piece of Maine.” Appealing to seasonal residents, visitors, and locals alike, this image of tourmaline as a glittering shard of Maine real estate is the reason for its success. It reminds tourists of happy leisure time escapes and Mainers of home no matter where they may be. By equating the stone with the state, a sense of being, or an instance in the buyer’s life, jewellers in Maine have been able to elevate tourmaline from a forgotten stone to a semi-precious forget-me-not.

Tourmaline – from the Singhalese “thurmali” or “stone of mixed colours.”

A crystallised boron silicate, it’s mined in various locations: Brazil, Africa, Afghanistan, Sri Lanka, and even the United States (Maine and California exclusively). Tourmaline registers at 7-7.5 on the Mohs scale but is brittle and prone to inclusions, microfractures, and visible defects. Colours are determined by the compounded elements in individual crystals and it is common to find multiple colours within one crystal. Iron-rich tourmaline produces black, bluish-black, or deep brown stones whereas magnesium-rich tourmaline produces brown to yellow hues. The most commercially successful of all tourmalines are the lithium-rich crystals which come in various colours from green to blue and even reds or pinks. An estimated 95% of the world’s tourmaline is schorl – a species of tourmaline which is black or deep brown.

Tourmaline Colour Break Down

Rubelite – red to pink Indicolite – blues Verdelite – greens Anchroite – colourless (not commercially valuable) Watermelon – technically bicolour pink and green though often marketed separately


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jewellers trade - March 2012

By Michael Rees

Computer Crime » » Down on the Farm We live our lives online more and more these days, and we are encouraged to do business online too. Here is a cautionary tale about some oversized farm animals, the dangers of the interwebs, and some advice on how not to run your ecommerce startup.

Cyber crime is what is going to keep police forces around the world busy for generations to come. It seems that every time the police look like getting on top of things the hackers and fraudsters find new ways of ripping off the unsuspecting.

Former heavy weight Australian Judo Champion, Dean, his wife Mirella and daughter Sam moved into their new digs about 16 months ago and have built up a menagerie with a bit of a difference.

A cyber crook in New Zealand was recently convicted of ripping off a local city councillor for jewellery, cash and gold bars. His other crimes were very simple: promise to deliver something, take the cash and then nothing. He was sentenced to six months periodic detention.

Mini Pig

Many people would believe that cyber crime is all brand new - not so. There are parts of the world where lese majeste is still a crime. Lese majeste these days means something like rubbishing the monarchy or head of government, stirring up the masses, encouraging people to take up arms - something like we have seen recently in the Middle East. This brings to mind the power of Facebook, Twitter and the other social networks.

Salami Attack

My favourite type of cyber crime has to be the “Salami Attack”. The term is derived from the way people eat salami, they shave off little bits at a time. Internet thieves have devised methods where they only shave off very small insignificant sums of money that most people or organisations would not miss. But you take 10 cents from about one million accounts each day or week, by hacking the Internet banking systems, and it soon adds up. Now we come to a most heinous crime committed on the internet where shysters ripped off an unsuspecting family. The Leighton family went in search of the quiet life in rural Thirlmere, about 80 kilometers south west of Sydney, and to get closer to nature. But there were a few surprises in store along the way.

This is where the internet scam comes in. Sam wanted a miniature pig and after mum and dad gave the OK she started searching the internet. She came across a site that sold miniature Hamlets. Sam contacted the company and they sent her brochures, photos and other information about miniature pigs. She sent off $800 and in due course she was told that the pig was on his way and to collect him from Sydney airport. The pig was traveling to Brisbane, then to Sydney. But there was a mix up and he went to Canberra, so after about a two-hour flight he landed in Sydney in a kitten cage. You could hold him in the palm of your hand.


He was taken home and he began growing. He had a ring through his nose and the vet was called to remove it. Sam told the vet it was a miniature pig. When the vet asked if she had only papers to confirm this, Sam realised she didn’t. The bad news: her miniature pig was a wild Queensland boar. She had been duped. She could have bought the same pig at the local auctions for $30.00.

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“Rusty,” as the pig became known, soon settled into the family and the miniature pig now weighs 200 kilos and is still growing. Sam tired to contact the company via their website but you won’t be surprised to learn there was no response. Is there nothing these cyber thieves will stop at to earn a dishonest dollar?

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Tallest Horse on the Planet

But Rusty is not the only animal in this household with a story. Sam’s horse died during the equine flu outbreak and after getting over the loss Sam went in search of a new horse. She spotted an ad in a newspaper and in due course a new horse came into her life but as you would expect he was a little bit different. “Strider” comes from the “Shires” breed and he stands at 18.2 hands and weighs in at over a ton. He is only three years old and has a chance of becoming a contender for the title of the tallest horse on the planet with the current world record being 20.5 hands. “He still has a few years of growth and he might get somewhere near the mark”, said Sam. UNIQUE DESIGNS

maDE IN aUStralIa

Strider is a real part of the family and follows just about everyone around the fiveacre property. “There are only about 100 horses like Strider in Australia. He has done very well at the Camden Show and the Berry Show. They are usually very expensive to buy. We got him when he was about three months old after his mother had died of the equine flu. The owner saw the connection with us and reduced the price. He really has become a part of the family”, added Sam.

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So there you have it. I suppose the moral of the story is trust the ads you see in the newspaper but go carefully with the internet - especially if they are selling pigs.

The Leighton Family plus menagerie. Left: Mirella, Rusty and friend. Top: Dean and the not-somini mini-pig. Right: Sam and Strider.

A u s t r A l i A


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Rotary Watches & Instyle Rotary Watches, the family-run Swiss watchmaker, recently announced that it has signed a distribution agreement with Instyle, the wholesale watch distributor in Australia and New Zealand. This agreement brings to 40 the number of countries in which Rotary watches are now sold. Following a very strong year in 2011, Rotary is well-positioned to expand on its already significant international profile in the coming year. Rotary Watches, as part of The Dreyfuss Group, is the oldest Swiss family-run watch manufacturer that is owned and managed by direct descendants of the founding family. Now celebrating its 117th year, the Group has three major brands within its portfolio and has achieved international award-winning status, as well as receiving the prestigious Superbrand commendation (www.superbrands.uk.com) for three consecutive years. Instyle is a wholly-owned family business established in 1950, importing, manufacturing and distributing watches in Australia, New Zealand and Oceania. With over 700 outlets across Australia, Instyle is Australia’s leading supplier of high profile watch brands. Victoria Campbell, Managing Director of Rotary Watches, commented: “We grew Group sales by 19% in 2011. Growth came from every sector last year which means that the brand is well placed to build on this strength through 2012.”

I’m A Believer

RepHopper

With the tough economic climate that we’ve recently experienced and many businesses closing their doors, it’s great to hear that Believe Advertising, a boutique advertising and PR agency that specialises in doing PR for jewellery and accessories, is celebrating its 10th birthday next month.

Jewellery Agents and Reps, can now carry less samples and take more orders.

Adrian Falk, Director of Believe Advertising, started the agency after returning from New York where he was working in advertising and publicity. “I started Believe Advertising after returning from New York as I believe that I can offer better services and PR strategies than other companies” Falk says. Armed with a little black book of media contacts and a lot of enthusiasm, Adrian quickly gathered a great stable of clients and generated for them priceless PR coverage in no time. Over the years, Believe Advertising has done PR for many international accessory brands as well as helped launched many local ones too. After working 15 years in the industry, Adrian’s expertise is second to none. “PR is such a great way for manufacturers and suppliers to distinguish themselves against their competitors.” Adrian prides himself on not just getting editorial placements for brands but also offering clients marketing and business advice on how they can improve their sales “It’s a total one stop shop service.” With 10 years already under his belt, what’s next for Believe Advertising? “I’m never one to take on 200 PR clients and having 40 people working for me - at the end of the day, I’m all about providing excellent personalised service to all my clients while also generating amazing press coverage. “ www.believeadvertising.com

The Australian software publisher Rephopper.com have just released their latest version of Salemaker app for iPad. Salemaker is for professional jewellery sales agents and representatives. It replaces the old customer list, sample range, price list and order book. Using a unique upload and sync process invented by rephopper, transferring one’s business information to your ipad is as easy as using facebook, and as safe as banking. According to Bee Jewellery director Steven Sesselmann, “It’s great. We have reduced our sample ranges, improved order accuracy and shaved a whole day off our delivery times.” Salemaker is now finding popularity with Canadian and U.S. jewellery wholesalers too. A free demo version of the latest Salemaker can be found at www. rephopper.com and the full version can be downloaded from the app store for only $5.50.


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jewellers trade - March 2012

Golden Tattoos Nano technology has brought the world so many marvellous things, and now it brings us jewellery. Italy’s Genefinity has combined biomedical nano technology and printed electronics with fashion and come up with pure gold (silver, platinum or palladium) tattoos.

Titanic Jewellery While it’s not unusual for commemorative events to spark a marketing frenzy, the 100th anniversary of the Titanic’s sinking is inspiring a wide range of unusual and varied business ventures. From memorial cruises to commemorative collectibles, businesses are making the most of the marketing opportunity.

Worn directly on the skin, and easily applied by the wearer, these Gold Sin Jewels come in a range of different patterns designed for the arms and back - floral motifs, Celtic, Japanese and Arabic influenced designs. Brand new collections can be created and customised very easily due to the innovative printing technique. Peak selling periods are expected for the wedding season, Christmas and summer. The pure gold designs last on the skin for up to seven days. Gold Sin Jewels are created on paper support that functions with hydro-soluable molecules that allow the skin to breath.

Cruises, perhaps the most obvious – or the most bizarre, depending on your perspective – are among those looking to cash in. Several companies are offering trips that mirror the infamous ocean liner’s route in an effort to give adventurists a feel for the Titanic’s journey. Around the world organisations are putting together a gala events for those looking to commemorate the event without heading to sea. Most of these are costume events, where revelers will get decked out in their best 1900s-inspired attire while enjoying a night of fine food and dancing. Instead of hosting an event, one US TV jeweller is angling for a more lasting commemoration by releasing its own line of Titanic jewellery. US broadcast shopping network Jewelry Television unveiled its new Titanic Jewelry Collection this month, ahead of the official anniversary of the famed ship’s maiden journey. Created in partnership with Titanic Museum Attractions, the Titanic Jewelry Collection, which features pieces in the art nouveau and Edwardian styles typical of that era. “Our purpose in bringing this collection to the public is to honor and celebrate the fashionable women onboard the Titanic, several of whom were international style icons,” said Pat Bryant, chief marketing officer for JTV. Among the pieces is a gold-tone red-and-white crystal rose brooch inspired by then 22-year-old movie star Dorothy Gibson, and a chandelier necklace inspired by the Victorianera journalist Edith Rosenbaum, both of whom survived the Titanic’s sinking. The jewellery line is absent the giant Heart of the Ocean necklace made famous in the blockbuster “Titanic” film, but does have a similar piece – a blue resin pendant surrounded by white crystals and inspired by survivor Lucile Carter. Perhaps the anniversary will see an increase in the popularity of vintage jewellery in general.

A thin 24 carat gold film, or other precious metals or alloys, are laid under a bio-compatible resin layer that guarantees adherence to skin. All materials are regularly used in the medical industry and are completely safe. The temporary two dimensional jewellery is water resistant. Due to its uniqueness, its innovative nature and to its low selling costs, the product has high potential impact on the fashion and jewellery market at a global level. Gold Sin Jewels are already distributed in Egypt and Lebanon, and in Canada, whereas in Italy they have been marketed exclusive by a main jewellery Italian brand, Stroili Oro, which holds exclusive commercial rights also for China and Russia. Genefinity is currently looking for distributors and local companies to develop partnerships and launch the product on other leading marketplaces. www.goldsinjewels.com


Diary MARCH March 4-5 JAA Melbourne Jewellery Fair Melbourne, Victoria www.autumnjewelleryfair.com.au   March 8-15 Baselworld Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com   March 11-13 MJSA Expo New York New York, USA www.mjsa.org March 14-17 International Baltic Jewellery Show Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com   March 21-24 Amberif Gdansk, Poland www.amberif.pl March 22-25 Istanbul Jewellery Show Istanbul, Turkey www.istanbuljewelryshow.com March 24-27 Oro Arezzo Arezzo, Italy www.oroarezzo.it   March 25-26 JAA Brisbane Jewellery Fair Brisbane, Australia www.australianjewelleryfair.com.au  

APRIL

  April 19-22 Jewellery Fair Korea Seoul, Korea www.jewelfair.com April 20-23 Malaysia International Jewellery Festival Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.mij.com.my April 23-24 Coober Pedy Gem Trade Show Coober Pedy, South Australia www.cooberpedygemtradeshow.com.au April 23-28 Kuwait International Gold & Jewellery Exhibition Mishref, Kuwait www.kif.net


chains

brazing and soldering ADELA IMPORTS

Silver Chain & Jewellery Wholesaler

We supply over 140 styles of silver chain with up to 20 lengths available from stock. Silver Jewellery Plain or set with semi precious stones.

www.adelaimports.com P: 02 9380 4742 Catalogue available

tools

for sale

BUSINESS FOR SALE

BRISBANE RETAIL & TRADE WATCH & JEWELLERY REPAIRS

• Strategically located in Brisbane’s Queen St Mall; • Enviable reputation with a strong and loyal client base that continues to grow; • Well known retail and trade watch and jewellery repairs; • Currently servicing several retail inner city shops; • Fully fitted workshop and retail sales area; • Staff and systems in place; • Affordable rental; • Fantastic opportunity to start your own business; • Owner retiring; • $40k will consider offers

employment

gemstones

DIAMOND SETTER Sydney based diamond setter. All styles of setting at competitive rates. Pick up and delivery available to some areas. Interstate and rural clients welcome. Ryan - 0417 776 956

for sale For Sale: Maxi Display Stand for Trollbeads - As New (Cost $2200) Price $1200 includes freight within NSW. Contact siagta@tpg.com.au

Inspections strictly by appointment Phone owner: 0411 706 990

Relaxing ... Three Affairs The 1st Affair A married man was having an affair with his secretary. One day they went to her place and made love all afternoon. Exhausted, they fell asleep and woke up at 8pm. The man hurriedly dressed and told his lover to take his shoes outside and rub them in the grass and dirt. He put on his shoes and drove home. ‘Where have you been?’ his wife demanded. ‘I can’t lie to you,’ he replied, ‘I’m having an affair with my secretary. We had sex all afternoon.’ She looked down at his shoes and said, ‘You liar! You’ve been playing golf!’ The 2nd Affair A middle-aged couple had two beautiful daughters but always talked about having a son. They decided to try one last time for the son they always wanted. The wife soon became pregnant and delivered a healthy baby boy. The joyful father

rushed to the nursery to see his new son. He was horrified at the ugliest child he had ever seen. He told his wife, ‘There’s no way I can be the father of this baby. Look at the two beautiful daughters I fathered! Have you been fooling around behind my back?’ His wife smiled sweetly and replied, ‘No, not this time!’ The 3rd Affair A woman was in bed with her lover when she heard her husband opening the front door. ‘Hurry,’ she said, ‘stand in the corner.’ She rubbed baby oil all over him, then dusted him with talcum powder. ‘Don’t move until I tell you,’ she said. ‘Pretend you’re a statue.’ ‘What’s this?’ the husband inquired as he entered the room. ‘Oh it’s a statue,’ she replied. ‘The Smiths bought one and I liked it so I got one for us, too.’ No more was said, not even when they went to bed. Around 2am the husband got up, went to the kitchen and returned with a sandwich and a beer. ‘Here,’ he said to the statue, ‘have this. I stood like that for two days at the Smiths and nobody offered me a damned thing.’


All Shapes All Sizes The Finest Cutting GIA Triple X H&A The Finest Diamonds The Finest Jewellery

Level 10, 227 Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 Tel (03) 9654 1766 Fax (03) 9650 9930 Toll Free 1800 337 400 diamonds@wiener.com.au

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BRISBANE ph (07) 3211 2666 SYDNEY ph (02) 9233 8900 MELBOURNE ph (03) 9654 5200 For gemstone video, images, information and blog go to oneilsaffiliated.com


March 2012