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Jeweller the

Jan/Feb 2013

£7.50

The Voice of The Industry

The Jewellery Show Look Book • Wedding market report Tucson gem shows guide in Gems & Jewellery preview


W he n the p u re , co o l b e a ut y of t h e A rct ic is b l e n d e d w i th the si m p l e e l e g an ce of D a n is h d e s ig n , a n e w e ra d a w n s :

It’s Bering-Time .

BERING SLI M CER A M IC . £ 249,F lat Hig hTe ch-Cer amic S cr atch Re sist ant S apphire C r y st al 3-Ye ar International Warr ant y

inspired by arctic beauty Visit BERING at The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International at the NEC to see the full collec tion and exciting new designs.

To see the full BERING collection please visit: www.beringtime.com or contact Henrik Leth Møller (hlm@beringtime.com or 07938 705688 ) for details on how to become a B ERING stockist.


Jeweller

Contents & Contacts |

the

The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J A N / F E B

13

Keeping the romance alive

30

Communiqué

4

Editor’s Letter

7

Industry News

8

NAG News

19

Member of the Month

22

Education & Training

24

IRV Review

26

Security

52

Ahead of The Jeweller’s forthcoming union with Gem-A’s

Feature: Posh Pawn

72

Gems & Jewellery magazine – a taster of things to come

Insurance Matters

75

with comment from its chief executive James Riley

Brand Profile: Bouton

76

Feature: Business Finance

78

Feature: Cut in Clerkenwell

78

Antique Jewellery

82

Notebook

86

Display Cabinet

88

The Last Word

90

The wedding jewellery market is as buoyant as ever – provided you can create the best possible experience, reports Belinda Morris

Gems & Jewellery

43

and a preview of the Tucson gem shows

Ethical silver has landed!

50

Cred Jewellery brings the first Fairtrade Fairmind silver to the UK

Showbound!

56

A Look Book of stunning new launches as well as the complete low-down on events at

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

The Jewellery Show 2013

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Cover Image In conjunction with Clogau

The National Association

Publishing Enquiries/

of Goldsmiths

Classified Advertising:

78a Luke Street,

Neil Oakford

London EC2A 4XG

neil@jewellers-online.org

Tel: 020 7613 4445

Tel: 020 7864 1504

www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris Tel: 01692 538007

Tel: 0845 606 88 77 www.clogau.com

bmorris@colony.co.uk Sales Director: Ian Francis

Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org Tel: 020 7864 1503 Contributors:

Tel: 020 7613 4445

Griselda Bear,

Fax: 020 7729 0143

Miles Hoare, Amy Oliver,

ian@jewellers-online.org

Helen Serras-Herman

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3


| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

NAG CEO Michael Hoare reflects on the state of the high street as reports of Christmas trading emerge and is reminded of how different jewellery-related crime might be if owning firearms were the norm here.

Out with the old, and in with the new? It’s probably a little late to wish you happy New Year, but here goes anyway! I hope Christmas trading put a smile on your face, as frankly something had to after the bumpy old year we’ve just experienced. In early January, as I write, the results are coming in from all over the retail universe, and I think ‘patchy’ best describes them; from excellent increases, notably from John Lewis, to the frankly dismal that will sign the final death notice for some operators. Mind you, some were clinging on by their finger-tips even before the festive season! Some miserable formats haven’t helped much either. For more than a decade rampant consumerism disguised some shoddy retail offerings that were frankly undeserving of loyal support. Plus a bloated property market fuelled speculative shop building to the point where we simply have too many for these straightened economic times. Shops in the wrong places, the wrong size, built as a sop to planners, or for ego’s sake. In short, shops that nobody wants, needs, supports, or values! Is it any wonder that there’s been an inexorable rise in internet shopping – accounting for something like 12 per cent of activity – with

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even more people professing to be ready, willing and able to shop using tablets, smart phones, and other mobile devices? The results for Christmas trading online will be a revelation, the effect on the high street lasting! So much for the wider universe, how was it for jewellers, and what does the future hold? Two quotes lifted from our recent trading poll on LinkedIn are revelatory. One contributor put it thus: ‘Is it possible that for years we all took it for granted that people bought jewellery for Christmas… and now the truth is that they (mostly) don’t… the challenge is for the jewellery trade is to get back the Christmas market share’. While another commented, ‘For us value of sales was a little better than we expected, what was disappointing is what we were selling, and the almost complete lack of valuable jewellery going out the door. Thank goodness for the branded product and the public’s determination to own it’. Both are prescient comments, neatly describing on the one hand the way jewellery has lost ground to other gifts – like tablets, smartphones etc. – as the Christmas must-haves. The other illustrates the inexorable growth of brands in consumer consciousness. Neither should be a surprise, but both come as a bitter pill for

jewellers who have invested time and money in quality, variety, and expertise. The sad truth is that notwithstanding Mary Portas and all the other initiatives, now that landlords and banks are taking a hit, things will begin to change in the retail firmament. There will be a shakeout in the property market, shoddy retailers will go to the wall, and town centres will polarise into those worth investment or not. But realistic rents

As for the high street’s slow death by internet shopping? Humans are social animals that actively seek out company, warmth, bright lights and glitter. It’s down to the high street to provide it. will also open up opportunities for innovators; those with a good idea; the energy to use social media to grow their community of interest; and provide proper customer service. These days you can display the characteristics of a national brand with just a handful of show rooms and a good transactional website!


Comment | As for the high street’s slow death by internet shopping? I pin a lot of hope on the fact that humans are social animals that actively seek out company, warmth, bright lights and glitter. It’s down to the high street to provide it. Next year, will I really do all my festive shopping on line? Well, I might research on line – maybe even buy commodities – but when it comes to a shopping ‘experience’, I am a social animal, and it’s got to be the high street for me every time. Your task, if you choose to accept it, is to convince the public!

Bang, bang, he shot me down! A little later in this issue I’ve summarised recent SaferGems activity and in particular noted the relative rarity of incidents involving firearms. We’ve come to dread the periodic gun-related atrocities that plague America, and receiving regular bulletins from the Jewellers Security Alliance, I can confirm the frequency with which guns feature in jewel robberies there. By contrast, Sweden always looks like a relatively safe and law abiding place, but still one where police officers are routinely armed. However, a robber was recently left fighting for his life after Swedish police shot him in the head during an armed heist. The 26year-old man and three accomplices armed with AK47 assault rifles robbed a small jewellery shop in a shopping centre located just 200 meters from the local police station. When the gang made a dash for their getaway car they were surprised by plain clothes police and engaged in a shoot-out in front of shocked bystanders on the high street in Sodertalje, 22 miles south of the Swedish capital Stockholm. Video footage posted on YouTube shows the dramatic events as the rest of the gang escape in a getaway car leaving their accomplice motionless on the pedestrian precinct. How very different to our own country! Few will forget 71 year old ‘super-gran’ Ann Timson, who was caught on camera setting about five men with her handbag as they attempted to escape on motorcycles having robbed Michael Jones Jewellers, Northampton, in 2011. Or, indeed, remember the ‘have-a-go heroes’ who apprehended one robber and unmasked another in a bungled raid on a Banbury jeweller in 2012! Thankfully, ours is not a society where ordinary citizens yet feel the need to protect their ‘rights’ by carrying guns, nor are our police routinely armed. The debate over whether they should be, or whether that would simply raise the stakes among the criminal fraternity, continues in some quarters. For my own part I confess to some base feelings of satisfaction in seeing a gun-wielding thug get his comeuppance, but on balance I think I’d rather have summary justice meted out by handbag-wielding pensioners, than dodge police bullets.

Summertime and the living is easy Forget the gloom for a moment and imagine summer weather – no, not lashing rain – but sunshine, manicured grass, and the distant drone of lawn mowers. Well now reach for your diary, and pencil in the details of the NAG’s AGM. The date is Wednesday 26th June, and the location Hampton Court Palace. Feeling better yet?

The Voice of the Industry 5


Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“The certified diamond business is a volume business – you have to sell them by the bucket load to realise a good profit…”

Happy New Year! As it’s still January – by the skin of its teeth – I think it’s just about okay to start with this greeting. Goodness, but 2013’s got a lot to live up to after the buzz of the last twelve months, wouldn’t you say? What is there to look forward to? Well, we think that we’re getting things off to a cracking start with this bumper double issue and we’ve got some exciting news to kick things off… This month marks the beginning of a new collaboration for The Jeweller as we welcome on board Gems & Jewellery, the august publication of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (or Gem A as we all know it). In this issue we’re teasing you with an eight-page taster

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of things to come but, from March onwards, the fully-formed 24-page package of gem-related news, features and information will be a must-read, bound-in supplement in every edition. Of course, this being the first issue of the new year, we’re also heralding The Jewellery Show which is just around the corner. Our round-up of what to watch out for and a ‘Look Book’ of bright and beautiful new collections being launched at the NEC, should whet your appetite for four days of trend-gathering, new-talent-hunting, order-placing, chit-chatting and general bonhomie (p56). But wait, there’s more… now is also a good time to think about wedding jewellery. It’s a tough market out there, but thankfully we’re still a nation of old romantics and it doesn’t appear that the notion of getting hitched – with a couple of rings to mark the event properly – is about to disappear anytime soon. The trick of course is to make sure that it’s you the couples come to when they’re ready to purchase said bands. Our bridal jewellery feature

“What is important… is the friendships that you develop, the dealers that you come back to see again and again, the camaraderie with fellow artists, the knowledge gained…”

(p30) not only highlights some of the beautiful new pieces from key brands and designers, but looks at how bricks and mortar retailers in particular can stay ahead of the game (of love). Which is, of course, the aim of every issue of The Jeweller – whether it’s keeping you upto-date with security matters, financial concerns or ethical issues. Regarding the latter, be sure to read about the just-announced arrival of Fairtrade Fairmind silver – an eagerly-awaited addition to the ethical jewellery arsenal (p50). I told you things were getting off to a good start!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

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The Voice of the Industry 7


| Industry News

Christmas trading – more ho-hum than ho ho ho!

ith UK retailers across all sectors having posted a somewhat indifferent set of sales figures for the Christmas 2012 period – values were up 0.3 per cent on a likefor-like basis from December 2011 – the jewellery industry has also reported rather less-than-scintillating results. “Festive sales were a little up but not as good as the year as a whole. I think we will have to get used to this as the internet continues to have an impact on high street Christmas shopping,” says Andrew Hinds of F Hinds. “We also believe that the wet weather in November impacted high street sales (yet helped internet sales). Watches were the strongest category. Overall (that is, across all categories) the average spend was up on last year but footfall was marginally down,” he added. To gauge how NAG members fared over the festive period, we conducted a survey of our own and from the 70 respondees (who we thank for their time) came a patchy image.

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“Trends have been hard to find among the generality of retailers on the high street this year, and the results of this survey tend to confirm that while trading was broadly acceptable it hasn’t set any records,” says the NAG’s Michael Hoare. Around a third of retailers found that trading was as they had expected it to be and another third said that it was worse (ranging from ‘slightly’ to ‘much’ worse). Far and away the best-seller of the period was silver jewellery (60 per cent) with watches and diamond set jewellery coming in joint second place. Interestingly, beads and charms accounted for the lowest sales (16 per cent). Many of the respondees noted that pre-owned and vintage jewellery sold well. Looking ahead to 2013 Hinds explains that he is cautiously optimistic but not downbeat. “There are customers who are still willing to spend if they are happy they are receiving value for money but there are no easy sales out there,” he warns.

There was more positive news within the industry. Aurum Holdings, whose portfolio includes Mappin & Webb, Watches of Switzerland, and Goldsmiths, announced that ‘despite the difficult retail climate’, sales for the eight weeks to January 13th 2013 were up nine per cent on a like for like basis. The company reports strong performance across all key watch brands and continued dominance of the watch category saw a total sales increase of nine per cent over the period. The strength of the Christmas period was also driven by improved product availability and growth of online which continued to perform well with ‘Click and Collect’ services remaining popular with consumers. “A flat end to a flat year,” is how David McCorquodale, head of retail at KPMG, has described the UK’s Christmas 2012 trading. “Despite mild, albeit wet, weather for the whole of the last quarter and an extra full weekend immediately prior to Christmas, the final quarter saw total sales rise only 1.5 per cent on the previous year and likefor-likes rise by only 0.2 per cent – both rises lower than inflation,” he said. According to BRC figures, UK retail sales values were up 0.3 per cent on a like-for-like basis from December 2011. On a total basis, sales were up 1.5 per cent, against a 4.1 per cent rise in December 2011. Online sales were up 17.8 per cent, the fastest growth since December 2011, when they had risen by 18.5 per cent. Helen Dickinson, director general, BRC, said: “Against the relentlessly tough economic backdrop and low expectations, these results are no cause for celebration, but not a disaster either. Total growth for December hasn’t beaten inflation and is only on a par with December 2010, when severe weather put sales volumes on ice for much of the month. Online was the stand-out performer, showing its highest rate of growth this year. Shoppers increasingly take advantage of the convenience that online shopping offers at every customer stage, from comparing prices to reserving and collecting in-store.”


Industry News |

Gem-A’s Gems & Jewellery joins The Jeweller s from March 2013 Gems & Jewellery, the publication of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) will form a 24 page supplement within The Jeweller magazine which will now be distributed to all Gem-A members in the UK and overseas (as well as existing NAG members) giving the publication a circulation of well over 6,000. An eight-page teaser of what’s to come is to be found on page 43. Gems & Jewellery in forthcoming issues will maintain its own cover and identity within The Jeweller and will give readers a great insight into the fascinating world of gemmology and gemstones. Previously published quarterly, this important section of the magazine will give a much greater exposure to the fascinating subject of gemstones and NAG members are guaranteed to enjoy reading and learning about their more technical aspects. Likewise, Gem-A members will now get the opportunity to read about all other aspects of the jewellery industry on a more regular basis – something The Jeweller is already renowned for. “We’ve been aware for some time that Gems & Jewellery and The Jeweller had a lot of readers in common so it made complete sense to distribute the two magazines as one package,” explains NAG CEO Michael Hoare. “Members of both organisations take their work seriously and like to have authoritative information – be that on gemstones or standards – at their finger-tips. But they also like to share ideas across the extended jewellery community, so we think this exciting development will extend professionalism and feed the imagination!” “I am delighted that the NAG and Gem-A are working closely together on this publication. With our shared history it is a natural fit and I believe the two will complement each other to the benefit of the members of both associations,” adds James Riley, Gem-A’s chief executive. Each issue will now include features from key industry gemmologists including Harry Levy, Gary Roskin and Dr Jack Ogden, which will help maintain The Jeweller’s reputation as the authoritative trade publication and reinforce its position as ‘The Voice of the Industry’. If you are not an NAG or Gem-A member and would like to subscribe to the magazine please email Amanda White at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org for more details.

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Rox loses £1m in armed robbery olice in Edinburgh were appealing for information after George Street jeweller Rox was attacked by robbers on 15th January. At around 5.15pm two men walked into the shop wearing hooded jumpers. After smashing up the glass jewellery display cabinets with an axe, one of the men – who appeared to have a firearm – grabbed a shop assistant and forced her to open a window display at the front of the shop. A spokesperson for ROX said: “Staff are badly shaken but thankfully no-one was hurt. Initial estimates suggest that £1m worth of stock has been taken including diamond necklaces and engagements rings, worth upwards of £100,000 each, and luxury watches from brands including Hublot and Corum. Girard-Perregaux watches were also taken during the raid. However the rare Opera 2 timepiece worth £500,000 has not been in the store since Christmas”. The men made off on a motorcycle which was later found abandoned. Anyone with any information is asked to contact Lothian and Borders Police on 0131 311 3131 or Crimestoppers in complete confidence on 0800 555 111.

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S N I P P E T S Swag customer wins honeymoon competition The winner of Brown & Newirth London’s Seychelles honeymoon competition is a customer from Swag jewellers in Bromley, Kent. The bespoke wedding and commitment rings brand launched the competition with selected retail partners to win a 5* honeymoon package to the Seychelles, worth up to £10,000 in July 2012. Student award short list Three female students – Joanna Gordon, Claudia Noble and Roxanne Moznabi – have been shortlisted in the design competition staged annually by Birmingham casting house and rapid prototyping company, Weston Beamor, in conjunction with the School of Jewellery at Birmingham City University. The winner will be announced on the WB stand at The Jewellery Show next month. New gold-plated test Niton UK has developed AuDIT™, a proprietary gold plating test and detection system that has been specifically developed for, and is only available on Niton XRF precious metal analysers. Several independent methods in the software work in tandem to alert the user to the probability that an item is plated. Visit: www.nitonuk.co.uk Honours for jewellery designers Orkney-based jewellery designer Sheila Fleet was awarded an OBE in the Queen’s New Year’s Honours list – one of four British jewellery designers to be recognised. Stephen Webster and design duo Rosie Wolfenden and Harriet Vine of Tatty Devine all received MBEs. Fleet was given her award for services to the industry she has worked in for 44 years. She left school at 15 without qualifications, but through her passion for art and design gained entry to Edinburgh Art School.

The Voice of the Industry 9


| Industry News

Industry mourns loss of Simon Cupitt and James Maxwell t is with very great sadness that we announce that Simon Cupitt passed away on Friday 11th January. The Bromsgrove-based jewellery retailer and NAG member, who was just 43, was diagnosed with an aggressive form of motor neuron disease at the end of 2011. Also mourned is the shocking and untimely death at 35 of James Maxwell, who was managing director of the CMJ’s own diamond brand Mastercut Diamonds – he died on 10th January following complications arising from pneumonia. Very memorably, Simon’s fight against his illness included a motorcycle ride from John O’Groats and Lands End, which was organised and shared by industry friends including John Henn of TA Henn and Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives. “Simon's untimely death has been one of life's devastating blows that his family will struggle with for the rest of their lives. It is now for us to support Åsa and the children. The trade has lost a true gentleman and skilled craftsman in his prime,” said Henn. “Initially I came to know Simon through him being a member of the Executive Development Forum,” said McGraw. “Then I came to respect and like him, not solely as a jeweller, but as a thoughtful, gentle and thoroughly likeable man. He will be missed by many, not least of all by me.” Simon leaves a wife, Åsa, and children Ollie and Ella. James Maxwell worked in the jewellery and watch industry for many years, working first for the Swatch Group before moving on to work with Jean-Paul Tolkowsky and Exelco. CMJ CEO Willie Hamilton paid tribute to James saying: “James was a pleasure to work with. He had a tremendous amount of drive and threw himself into anything he did with 100 per cent commitment and energy, whether that was his work or his family. He was one of the jewellery industry's most well-known characters and will be sorely missed by the many, many people he worked with.” James leaves a wife, Kate, and sons Hugo and Rupert. The March issue of The Jeweller will include fuller tributes to Simon and James.

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Main picture: Simon Cupitt (centre) and friends on the motorcycle ride from John O’Groats to Lands End Inset: James Maxwell (right) with Jean-Paul Tolkowsky

S N I P P E T S CIBJO launches new website CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has announced the launch of its new website. The new design – reminiscent of its earlier website – provides a wealth of information about CIBJO and its activities, links to its national association and commercial members from around the world. It also enables the immediate download of its sets of industry standards and nomenclature, known as the Blue Book, as well as a series of industry guides. Tivon celebrates big birthday Founded in 1963 by Israel Tivon in 1963 the fine gem-set jewellery company Tivon celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. The milestone will be marked by the release of many new one-off couture creations and the brand has already aligned itself to major gemstone companies such as Gemfields, in order to “bring greater quality and more traceable-source gemstones to market,” says sales and marketing director Ariel Tivon. Award for Boyes Turner Boyes Turner, the NAG’s solicitor and regular columnist for The Jeweller has won the UK Regional Law Firm category at The Legal Week-sponsored British Legal Awards (the legal industry equivalent of the ‘Oscars’). This is the most competitive class and open to all UK’s law firms that are not based in the City or foreign parented. This is the second time in three years that Boyes Turner has won the award, with criteria including strategic vision and client care. Craft Skills Award launches Applications are open for nominations for the Craft Skills Award, which has been created with the aim of passing on craft skills. Individuals, companies, groups and organisations can apply or be nominated for £2,5000 prizes in four categories – encouraging craft skills: in the workplace; in an educational setting and in other settings and also for engaging new and diverse audiences in craft skills. Applications can be completed, by 15th February, online, or by post and any age or sub-sector of craft may apply. Visit: www.craftskillsawards.org.uk

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| Industry News

Gemfields to buy Fabergé he acquisition of Fabergé by the gemstone mining and marketing company Gemfields is to go ahead, following a General Meeting of the company on the 7th January 2013, during which resolutions proposed were duly passed. “The successful outcome of today’s General Meeting concludes the major outstanding conditions precedent for the acquisition of Fabergé and is clearly indicative of the fact that our vision to transform the coloured gemstone sector is well understood and supported by our shareholders,” said Ian Harbottle, CEO of Gemfields. “With Fabergé we have the opportunity now to become increasingly recognised as the leading coloured gemstone company within a far shorter space of time and deliver significant value, growth and diversification opportunities for the company. This is a milestone moment not only for the Fabergé brand but also the coloured gemstone industry and it sets the stage for accelerating delivery of our long-standing vision.” Gemfields announced the proposed acquisition of Fabergé on 21st November 2012 with a view to creating a globally

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Katharina Flohr, Managing and Creative Director Faberge (left) and Ian Harebottle, CEO Gemfields

recognised coloured gemstone champion. Fabergé will provide Gemfields with direct control over a high-end luxury goods platform

IJL’s KickStart scheme opens for 2013 entries nternational Jewellery London’s initiative KickStart has opened for 2013 entries, with the deadline extended until Friday 15th March 2013. This year, for the first time, one of the winning designers will be voted for by members of the industry. Now in its fifth year, KickStart provides a way for retailers and buyers to discover outstanding new designers as they launch. The bursary scheme is run by IJL and supported by the BJA, and the winning designers are selected as talent of the future. Ten KickStarters are selected each year to take part in the mentoring programme. By opening up one of these 10 places and allowing retailers and the industry to vote for their favourite, IJL will continue to ensure the UK leads the way in terms of recognising the best and most innovative new jewellery stars. The launch of the KickStart People’s Choice award voting in March 2013 will coincide with the launch of three new online voting options. Twitter users can Tweet the name of the KickStarter they’d like to vote for and tag #KickStartVote. Similarly, Instagram users can post a picture of their favourite KickStarter with the same hashtag to cast their vote. Facebook users will be able to cast votes via the IJL Facebook page. Voters may also cast their votes directly at jewellerylondon.com

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and a global brand with exceptional heritage. The Proposed Acquisition is expected to be completed on or around 28th January 2013.

Azza Fahmy opens Cairo design studio nternationally acclaimed Egyptian designer jeweller, Azza Fahmy, has announced the launch of the Azza Fahmy Design Studio, which will open in Cairo on 15th February 2013. In collaboration with Alchimia School of Contemporary Design in Florence, Italy, the studio will be the first contemporary jewellery design establishment of its kind in Egypt. The Studio’s courses will provide a comprehensive curriculum and lecturers will deliver a full time three year academic programme together with part-time courses – with three month or one year options – for students and up-and-coming entrepreneur designer talents seeking training in jewellery design and manufacturing.

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Industry News |

BJA announces winners of 2013 Jewellery Show Award he silver jewellery company, Lucy Q and the fashion jewellery supplier Pautinka are the joint winners of the British Jewellers’ Association’s annual design competition organised in conjunction with The Jewellery Show. This year’s Awards were for the best of the best in chokers and chunky neckwear. Lucy Q scooped the precious jewellery category of the competition with its ‘Short Multi-Drip’ necklace in sterling silver (below left). This unusual, fluid design with articulated, solid silver ‘drips’ is based on organic, natural shapes and can be worn at a variety of lengths. Pautinka, the brainchild of designer Svetlana Marshall, won the non-precious catwalk category of the competition for its ‘Goldie Necklace Shawl with five Moveable Pins’ (below right). This highly unusual gold-plated base metal piece, like all Pautinka’s jewellery, is designed to be worn in a variety of different ways allowing the wearer to achieve a number of very different looks from just one piece. “We were delighted with the quantity and quality of the entries to this year’s competition. Statement neckwear is very much in fashion at the moment and both of these designs are undoubtedly at the cutting edge of the trend and are worthy winners,” says the BJA’s PR and marketing manager, Lindsey Straughton. The runner up in the catwalk category was Cabinet of Somerset for its ‘Eulithis’ panel necklace. Jewellery student Rui Bao, who is currently studying at the Royal College of Art, was runner up in the precious metal category. Thanks to the sponsorship of The Jewellery Show’s organisers i2i, the two winning companies will each receive £500 towards the cost of a stand in Birmingham in 2013. All four winning designs will be shown three times daily as part of the fashion shows to be staged at The Catwalk Café. A presentation will be made to the winning companies on The BJA’s stand (18 H74) on Monday 4th February at 4.00pm.

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S N I P P E T S Cavalieri outlines CSR doctrine Speaking at the International Gem & Jewellery Conference GIT 2012 in Bangkok, CIBJO president Gaetano Cavalieri outlined a doctrine for CSR. Three basic rules of practice must be followed, he said: “To defend the industry from the various challenges that could threaten our reputation and integrity; function as a positive influence, serving as a means for sustainable economic and social development in the communities and countries in which we are active; and to be fully transparent in the way we operate our businesses and about what we sell.” Retail Trust fund-raiser success Scotland’s retail community rallied in Glasgow in December to raise £137,790 at the James Bond themed Retail Trust Grand Scottish Ball. Scotland’s retail and business communityturned out in force at the at Hilton, Glasgow. All funds raised will go towards financing the Retail Trust Retirement Estate in Crookfur and services offered through the Retail Trust. LA10 appoints new designer East-Kilbride-based luxury hand-made jewellery brand LA10 has appointed Jane Fleming as designer of the family-run company. The ex-manager of The Ringmaker, Fleming has over 20 years of experience working with precious metals and gemstones, designing one-off commissions for clients and valuing jewellery that will help to add the new strings to the LA10 bow. Chisholm Hunter’s 19th store

Coin-system jewellery line launch nique Jewelry has added a new brand to its growing portfolio of fashion jewellery names. Set to be revealed at The Jewellery Show next month, My iMenso – a new take on the personalised jewellery trend which is currently big on the Continent – is a coin-based system that allows customers to create their own pendants and bracelets. They can select every detail, whether it’s a bracelet or necklace, beaded or leather, the size of the pendant, whether it is stone set and also to place up to four coins within the pendant. The range is made entirely from rhodium-plated 925 sterling silver and pieces are also available with yellow or rose gold plating. Natural stone, zirconia set, engraved and lattice styles are among the 600 plus design options, with the additional possibility of photos or names added.

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Family-owned business and NAG member Chisholm Hunter opened its latest store last month. The new branch – in the Glasgow Fort – comes just weeks after the launch of the flagship store in Bluewater, Kent. Over the next six months the expansion plans continue with further locations being sought in Scotland and the rest of the UK. This month Chisholm Hunter was announced as the lead sponsor of the Scottish Spina Bifida Association’s 22nd Burns Supper for which it will also be donating an exclusive diamond jewellery piece for the charity raffle and guest goody bags.

The Voice of the Industry 13


| Industry News

Goldsmiths’ events for the year ahead he Goldsmiths’ Company has announced its calendar of exhibitions for 2013, which begins with Studio Silver Today – in collaboration with the National Trust – which opens on Saturday 9th March at Erddig House, near Wrexham, North Wales. The exhibition tells the story of the Company and focuses on the work of Wales-based silversmith Rauni Higson who will present talks to visitors on specified Saturday’s throughout the duration of the show. On 11th March until 13th April at Goldsmiths’ Hall, Growing Talent will demonstrate the work of jewellers and silversmiths nurtured by Goldsmiths’ with early as well as recent pieces from participants being shown. “It is fascinating to see how all these young craftspeople are developing,” said curator Mary La Trobe-Bateman. “And what is even more encouraging is the fact that they are constantly honing their skills, pushing the boundaries and continuing to thrive in what is a challenging climate”. Those with high profile and thriving businesses include Tomasz Donocik, Milly Swire, Regina Aredesian, Kate Smith, Ruth Tomlinson, Rachel Galley, Sue Lane, while jewellers David McCaul, Kamilla Ruberg and Mikala Djorup all have their own London galleries cum workshops. This is followed by the Festival of Silver: furniture and silver (8th – 13th April); the Goldsmiths Pavilion at Somerset House (26th – 30th June); Ultra Vanities: bejewelled boxes (31st May – 20th July); Festival of Silver: makers and dealers at the Goldsmiths’ Centre (8th – 13th July) and finally Goldsmiths’ Fair for two weeks starting on 23rd September.

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Ortak completes refurbishment of Meadowhall store K jewellery retailer and manufacturer Ortak has invested £45,000 in a major refurbishment programme to revamp its Sheffield store in Meadowhall shopping centre. The refurbishment was carried out by IWM shopfitters and took six days to complete. The new look store has been given a completely new window display system with brighter lighting which showcases the products from top to bottom while creating a sense of space and a welcoming atmosphere for customers. The topical colour scheme ‘Shades of Grey’ (which was selected long before the book!) complements the American Oak and the real slate detail in the shop front and throughout the store’s colour scheme. In addition to Ortak’s own collections of contemporary and classic jewellery, the Meadowhall store also stocks Nomination, Skagen and Radley watches as well as an extensive range of gifts.

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Georg Jensen launches ad campaign he leading Danish luxury brand Georg Jensen has unveiled its latest advertising campaign which features Danish singer Oh Land and has been shot by renowned fashion photographer Tim Walker. The near-naked blonde shares the (typically for Walker) surreal image with ballet dancers, a swan and a Viking – along with a selection of Georg Jensen homeware and jewellery pieces. In November last year Georg Jensen was sold by its owners Axcel to Investcorp, which has extensive experience in building luxury brands having previously owned Gucci and Tiffany. Founded in 1904 has over 100 stores in 12 countries and its original range of silver hollowware and jewellery has been extended to include gold, platinum and diamond jewellery, watches and design items.

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Citizen MD retires fter 12 years of successfully leading Citizen Watch UK, managing director Alan Mace has chosen to retire from the award winning watch brand at the end of February 2013. It has been announced that current brand director Mark Robinson will take over the role effective 1st March. Involved in many aspects of the company’s UK operation, Robinson brings a wealth of experience and knowledge to the position. A pivotal part of the product development team he will continue to broaden the reach of the Citizen brand to a wider consumer audience.

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14 The Jeweller Feb 2013


| Industry News Accurist appoints new CEO onathan Crocker has been appointed CEO of Accurist Watches. This appointment has been made as part of a major investment plan in the brand to develop its domestic and international business as well as drive the next stage in the 66 year old company’s history. Chairman and owner Andrew Loftus said: “Coming from a successful background of working with branded goods and a specific expertise in strategy, marketing and business development makes Jonathan a perfect choice for this role. This marks the next stage of brand evolution for Accurist and we are delighted to have Jonathan on board.” Crocker said of his appointment: “I look forward to the challenges that such a role presents – Accurist has an amazing heritage and a long standing pivotal role in the UK watch industry. We are planning to work very closely with our customers to ensure that our offer is both relevant and engaging for today’s consumers. A series of brand developments are planned and we will be working very hard to make Accurist rise to even greater heights in the months and years to come.”

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New showroom for WE Clark of Lewes AG member WE Clark & Sons which has operated two stores in Lewes in East Sussex, has created an extensive and completely revamped showroom from the larger of the two premises. The work was completed in time to take advantage of Christmas trading. “The showroom spans a vast area on two levels, including a magnificent mezzanine level with customer seating,” explains MD David Clark. “The main part of the building is grade two listed with the rear portion an entirely new two story extension, designed specifically to house our ranges including our own jewellery range.” WE Clark now has an exclusive room in which wedding rings can be selected in comfort, and a second room which showcases the Clark Jewellery Collection. In total there are nine separate areas for customers to sit and relax, including a Design Area, where customers can see their ring being designed.

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Relaunch for Hockley Mint fter a year of gathering feedback from retailers, Hockley Mint is preparing to re-launch its well-established range of plain wedding rings. It will come in the form of a collection of 127 ring samples presented in customisable display cases, which is designed to work alongside the soon-to-launch online ordering facility, which will allow instant quoting, at the request of retailers who require prices outside of office hours. Hockley Mint has invested in its wedding ring collections to enable it to stock all 18 popular profile shapes, in all finger sizes, hallmarked and ready for dispatch on the day of order. This removes the need to size rings and ensures uniformity throughout the range. Marketing manager, Sam Stevens said: “Over the past 12 months we have become more aware of the ever growing demands of the public when it comes to buying wedding rings. Consumers are becoming more knowledgeable about the amount of different options available. Because of this we have been putting together a support package for our customers to help them please their customers, without having to increase their stock levels.”

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16 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

Hot Diamonds introduces new concept he Jewellery Show next month will see the launch of a new addition to the Hot Diamond’s portfolio of collections. The Emozioni concept comprises sterling silver and diamond ‘coin-keeper’ pendants that are designed to hold interchangeable coins. The range will include a ‘vibrant array’ of these coins, allowing the customer to build up a personal collection. Visit Hot Diamond stand (18L40/M41) for the full reveal.

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WWW.BASELWORLD.COM


The National Association of Goldsmiths launches a new brand new member benefit

THE NAG DESIGN SERVICE Exclusive to N.A.G. members N.A.G. members can take advantage of this fantastic benefit and offer the N.A.G. Design Service in their shops from February 2013. Customers can bring in any items of jewellery or stones and have a brand new piece of jewellery designed and created exclusively for them.

The benefits of offering the NAG Design Service in your store...  A truly unique and individual design service to excite your existing customers and attract new ones  Your customers can have a stunning new item of jewellery designed and made using gold and stones from their old and worn items of jewellery  Your customers can have new items of bespoke jewellery designed to create pieces exclusively for them  Beautiful bespoke engagement and wedding rings can be designed to sit perfectly together  Once the design has been made the item is accompanied by an insurance valuation prepared by a member of the Institute of Registered Valuers If you would like to find out more about the NAG Design Service or register to offer the service in you shop please contact the N.A.G. Membership Department and speak with Amy, our Membership Administrator T: 020 7613 4445 (Ext 2) E: amy.oliver@jewellers-online.org

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS Representing Jewellery Retailers since 1894


NAG News |

NAG activities at The Jewellery Show

A new benefit for our members – the NAG Design Service his exciting new service is exclusive to NAG members and launches at the show. Our members will be able to take advantage of this fantastic benefit in their stores from that date onwards. The NAG Design Service is a service which will allow retailers’ customers to bring in items of jewellery or stones into a shop and have a brand new bespoke piece of jewellery designed and created exclusively for them by the special service. Once the design is made the item is accompanied by an insurance valuation by a member of the Institute of Registered Valuers. This is a unique and individual design service intended to excite your existing customers and, we hope, attract new ones. If you would like to find out more about the NAG Design Service or register to offer the service in you shop please contact the NAG Membership Department and speak to Amy, the NAG’s Membership Administrator on tel: 020 7613 4445 (ext 2) or email: amy.oliver@jewellers-online.org

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s always, the NAG will be exhibiting at The Jewellery Show at the Spring Fair, NEC Birmingham (3rd–7th February). Located in hall 17 (stand W51) we will be launching a brand new member benefit – the NAG Design Service – along with the NAG Seminar Programme 2013, a new look Education Prospectus 2013 complete with brand new JETPlus and CAT courses as well as a refreshed Membership Benefits and Services booklet featuring brand new services. It doesn’t stop there, Loughborough 2013 information will be available and you’ll be able to book onto our second NAG Retail Security Conference 2013. On Thursday 7th at 11am in the Catwalk Café we will be hosting a seminar with the Ethics Committee to introduce the brand new Gold Paper report, copies of which will be available on the day. The report details the sectors of the jewellery industry involved with the trade of gold and aims to help attendees understand and appreciate the range of initiatives attempting to keep gold clean. The NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare will be hosting the seminar and will be around afterwards to answer any burning questions you may have. If all that doesn’t tempt you, we will be luring you with delicious chocolate treats on the NAG stand… first come first served!

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London launch of the NAG Gold Standard ecember saw the NAG’s ‘Gold Standard’ take an important leap forward as the Metropolitan Police launched its first pilot of the scheme in the nation’s capital. The scheme was officially unveiled in the presence of local council members and dignitaries at Minar Jewellers in Tooting on Tuesday 4th December 2012. For the first time the scheme sees jewellers, goldsmiths and pawnbrokers encouraged to demand key information about the origin of the gold and the integrity of the seller. NAG chairman and owner of Minar Jewellers Pravin Pattni was the first to sign up to the scheme and is urging others to follow suit. He said: “The price of gold has increased significantly in the last few years. Gold theft has also increased in this time so thieves need to dispose of the stolen gold somewhere. Hopefully this scheme will make it very difficult to sell.” Members who sign up will receive a window sticker and posters to demonstrate their membership to the public and to deter criminals looking to dispose of stolen gold and other valuables. To find out more about The Gold Standard please contact the NAG Information Department on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: nag@jewellers-online.org

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New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Lydell Jewellery Services Ltd, East Wittering, Chichester

Allied Applications Essex Safety Glass Limited, Witham, Essex

Alumni Associate Applications Stephanie Longhurst, Blanford Forum, Dorset Christopher Shirtcliffe, Reading, Berkshire Michelle Heal, Bridgewater, Somerset Sarah Willett, East Grinstead, West Sussex

Alumni Fellow Applications Karra Willmott, Shirley, Surrey

The Voice of the Industry 19


| NAG News

New courses announced for NAG Seminar Programme 2013 he NAG provides members and nonmembers with a series of short courses to enhance skills, develop business potential and stimulate growth. The selection of seminars planned for 2013 covers a wide range of areas designed to help you, your employees and your businesses to develop going forwards and increase revenue. These include: • Advanced Selling • Developing Selling Performance • Selling to Chinese Customers • Gold Buying and Precious Metal Testing • Introduction to Diamonds and Diamond Grading • Diamonds and Diamond Grading – Intermediate • Essential Display • Strategic Visual Merchandising • Social Media

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New for this year – two Diamonds and Diamond Grading seminars, introductory and intermediate seminars, held in London and delivered by leading diamond grading tutor Eric Emms. The first seminar is an introduction to the field of diamonds and grading and the second is the next step up where delegates will build upon and refresh their knowledge at a more advanced level. Eric has been identifying and grading diamonds for 30 years and is well-known in the diamond and precious stone industry through his many years working at the Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain and the London Precious Stone Laboratory. In 1980 he established the CIBJO diamond grading service at the Laboratory. In 1989, with further grading experience in New York, Eric started the GIA diamond report service in London. During his career he has had

the privilege of examining some of the most famous and largest gems, including the M o g h u l Emerald, the Cullinan I and Cullinan II, the Koh-i-Noor and the Agra diamonds. Attendance at either or both of these seminars will count towards IRV CPD points. To request a copy of the NAG Seminar Programme 2013 and price list or to book onto courses please contact NAG Seminar Coordinator Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

NAG Membership Survey 2012 results revealed

AGM will be held in style at RHS Hampton Court Palace

ust before Christmas we sent out the Membership Survey 2012 to investigate what you really think about your Association and its benefits. The survey received a great response which has given the NAG an invaluable insight. These findings and perceptions will be very significant when it comes to our plans in 2013. The survey revealed major strengths and improvement areas in supporting members further into the future. From the survey we will be looking closely at services and benefits offered exclusively to NAG members to better position retailers in the marketplace. The NAG was glad to see that so many of you are completely happy with all that we do and it is implicitly clear that the NAG acts as the mark of quality and integrity to set you apart from those retailers who are non-members. Additionally suggestions have been noted and we look to incorporate many of them in the year ahead. Michael Hoare said: “Because we believe that membership of the NAG represents a public statement about the integrity of your business, it was particularly pleasing for me to hear that so many of you value the advocacy work we do on your behalf, giving you a powerful voice, and guarding your interests. As one respondent so pithily put it, ‘It represents the UK jewellery industry. It’s important to be involved!’ You might hardly be surprised to know that I agree wholeheartedly with those sentiments. Added to that, we were delighted to know just how many members value The Jeweller magazine, and have derived benefit or reassurance from the SaferGems initiative. No doubt 2013 is going to be tough, and as another respondent put it ‘everybody needs a friend in business’.”

his year’s NAG AGM will be held at Hampton Court Palace on Wednesday 26th June. The board and CEO, Michael Hoare will be talking about today’s complex challenges and how the NAG will support jewellery retailers to overcome them. For more information about the AGM please contact Ritu Verma on tel: 020 7613 4445 (ext. 2) or email: rituv@jewellers-online.org

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20 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

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| NAG News

NAG Member of the Month In the first Member of the Month for 2013, Amy Oliver speaks to Carol Clarke-Ng of Designer Jewellery Ltd in Dublin. A member of the Institute of Registered Valuers and an alumni (Associate) member of the NAG Carol’s journey through the jewellery trade has been an unusual and very interesting one… How did you start in the jewellery trade? I have always loved art, designing and painting, so I went to the College of Art here in Dublin with the aim of becoming a dress designer. However an apprenticeship fell through so I decided to follow my second biggest passion which was the Far East. I had 14 pen-friends in Thailand and so went to visit them all for four months. However, as soon as I arrived I felt like I was at home and ended up staying for years. While there I taught English, and a lot of my students had jewellery factories so I became very interested in jewellery and gemstones. I ended up studying jewellery design at the Bangkok Jewellery Institute, gems at the Asian Institute of Gemmology, and trained as a goldsmith in a factory in Bangkok. Equipped with all this knowledge I designed my first collection of jewellery and decided to go home and marry my Chinese boyfriend who I had left waiting in Dublin. You opened your own shop 25 years ago; what made you want to start your own business? When I came home I showed my jewellery to all the retailers in Ireland and received a very negative response – too unusual, too weird, not commercial! So I decided to show my jewellery at fairs etc., to which I got the opposite response. The public liked it. I knew then that I would have to sell directly to the public and open my own shop if I An example of Carol’s recent work

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wanted to design and make jewellery… so that’s what I did. I’m also not good at taking orders so I knew I would have to work for myself and wanted to be free to use my own artistic talents. Apart from your own work, what kind of products do you stock and why? I used to design and make all my own gold and platinum jewellery, but found it was very slow going so I decided to buy in some jewellery to complement my own stock and to give a bit more variety. I tend to buy single unusual pieces. I do not like brands as I think the market is saturated with them. Usually the brands dictate on everything from display to price, which I do not like. Also, many of the pieces are badly made and overpriced. Today it seems everyone from a footballer’s wife to a singer is a ‘jewellery designer’ – mad when you think about it! I am an old fashioned jeweller but I believe there is still a niche for what I do so I buy lots of gemstones and spend the year designing and making up different pieces of jewellery. I love the more unusual stones. I feel there are too many people selling jewellery who actually know very little about what they are selling or how it is made. However, I would not mind being an agent for a good diamond ring company that wanted to set up in Ireland. You are a member of the IRV; why did you decide to join? Yes, I am very privileged to be the first Irish female to have been elected to the IRV. As with all I do, I like to do it to the best of my ability and to give my customers the best service that I can. I have always carried out valuations, but about five years ago I decided that I wanted to offer my customers a first-class valuation service, so I contacted the NAG and they put me in touch with the late Brian Dunn. Over the years I trained with Brian and I have to say that he was a

brilliant teacher. I loved his straight forward, down-to-earth logic and his desire to share his knowledge with people like me. I really miss him as a mentor and a friend. I also like the idea of being part of an organisation that strives for perfection and has so many experts in its midst. There are so many people doing bad jewellery valuations that I wanted to set myself apart from them. Has being a member of the Institute enhanced your business? Yes, I would say that being a member of the Institute has enhanced my business, although unfortunately in Ireland (unlike England), the insurance companies do not push their clients to furnish them with ‘professional valuations’. This means there are numerous people doing very bad valuations, very cheaply, and I would not even try to begin to compete with them. So it is an uphill battle to try to get the insurance companies to change their ideas over here. Finally, do you have a memorable moment from your time in the trade? I remember back in the very early days when I knew nothing about gemstones I had a lovely three carat ruby that I paid quite a lot of money for. However, I was not mad about the colour and wanted it to be a little darker. I remember my Thai friends telling me about ‘heat treatment’, and I thought I could maybe do this in the microwave! So I put the ruby in and waited. The microwave started sparking and nearly blew up! I opened the door only to find my beautiful ruby splattered all around the sides of the microwave! Luckily for me it was just my ruby and not a customer’s. Never try that at home. I guess the ruby had been glass filled and exploded. If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, write in and tell us why! Please send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org


The Voice of the Industry 23


| NAG News: Education & Training

Double celebration as two winners of the Bransom Award are announced o kick off the new year in sparkling form, we’re celebrating not one but two winners of the hotly fought-after Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award. The triumphant student for the October 2012 award is Muhammad Syed of Harvey & Thompson in Stratford, London, while November’s winner is Rachel Longstaffe of Ogden’s in Harrogate. In conjunction with the NAG’s friends at Bransom Retail Systems, each month the Education Department enters all JET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘best project’, with the final winners chosen by the external moderators. Chris Garland, managing director of Bransom, says: “As sponsors of the JET1 Awards since June 2010 we have been really impressed with the professionalism and enthusiasm of students on the courses. Education and training has long been recognised as being integral to the success of any business and never more so than in difficult trading times. Businesses which have invested in their staff are best placed to ride out any recession and we are proud to contribute towards the industry’s ‘Investment in people’ schemes." Muhammad’s tutor, Mark Houghton was unsurprised at his student’s success: “From the outset Muhammad set a very high standard with his JET 1 coursework. Each assignment was always well researched and referenced throughout. It was soon obvious that he had made good use of the extra reading in order to gain additional marks,” he explained. Mark “A great deal of care was also given to both the layout and presentation of assignments, making them both easy to read and mark. I was delighted to see that his hard work has been recognised by winning the October Bransom award – he has shown that greater effort does reap greater reward!” When we spoke with the project moderator to discover why they selected Muhammad’s project, they commented, “this is one of the most comprehensive answers received in

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24 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

answer to the final piece of Project work on the JET 1 online course. The inclusion of fluorescence and diamond treatments added to this piece of quality work. Detailed coverage of the numerous types of inclusions that may be found in diamonds, was an unusual but relevant and valuable contribution to the project. Muhammad Syed is a very worthy winner of the JET 1 Bransom Award for the month of October 2012.” The Jeweller briefly caught up with Muhammad to ask how it felt to win the award. “Really good. I mean, really really really good.” Says Muhammad “I didn’t know about the award until I finished my fourth assignment and my tutor told me the next one would go up for an award. I knew I was confident with the material so I definitely put my all into the last assignment.” “I’d been working in the industry for about two years when I started JET 1 and the course has been invaluable in enhancing the practical experience I already have. It’s really going to help me a lot. I’d like to thank my manager for having trust in me and putting me through the course. I would also like to thank to Mark Houghton, as he really helped build up my morale and pushed me to go for the award.” Rachel Longstaffe, our November award winner produced a project that was much

Rachel Longstaffe

Muhammad Syed

praised by her tutor Cathryn Richardson. “Rachel was a student who worked hard throughout her course, getting her assignments in on time and showing she had a good understanding of the subject matter. Her assignments were interesting and very informative, showing her confidence and knowledge of dealing with customers in her place of work. Congratulations Rachel!” The project moderator who selected Rachel’s project from the dozens entered, added: “The content was such a pleasure to read because the reader was given a guided pathway through the piece of work, in an interesting and informative way. The professional manner in which the assignment was presented was very impressive. Rachel’s entry for Section B – ‘How the technical information related to diamonds can be used in a selling situation’ – was the very best it has been my pleasure to read and mark. The final part of the exercise related to the diamond ring was outstandingly excellent.”


NAG News: Education & Training | On hearing the news, Rachel herself said, “it’s amazing. I’m quite shocked, a very good feeling. Very exciting. It’s a really nice surprise to have won. I’d been working at Ogdens for 18 months and doing a lot of study on the side. I have a history degree and with Odgen’s dealing with antique jewellery, it really sparked my interest in the history of the trade. As I was so eager to study, Ogden’s offered to put me on the JET course. “I found it cements all the knowledge you gain when coming into the trade and really builds your confidence up on the shop floor.

It’s not only boosted my sales, but increased the knowledge I have and the way that I use it with customers. As JET 1 touches on the whole range of services offered by jewellers, it really resonated with what we do at Ogden’s – because we don’t just sell jewellery. In that way, for me, it was the perfect course!� As a reward for their hard work, the selected students take a trip to London’s prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall for the presentation of their certificate at our annual award ceremony. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard

Future developments in education t’s been non-stop for the Education Department over the last few years. Not only have we seen the NAG’s flagship JET 1 & 2 go online, 2012 also saw the launch of our new advanced business development course JET Pro and the IRV’s Certificate of Appraisal Theory taking major strides in development. Over past few years the education provision from the NAG has taken on a whole updated nature, tailor made following responses from many previous students. However, it doesn’t end there. In 2013 the Education Department will be focusing on the relaunch of our Management Diploma which has been extensively reviewed and updated and is now known as JETPlus.

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So what exactly is JETPlus? Who takes it? And why? The Jeweller spoke course tutor David Greenway to find out. “This innovative distance learning course has its origins in JET Management, but it has been completely revised and updated into a refreshing new format with new content applicable to today’s business climate,� Greenway explains. “JETPlus has been designed for those appointed to their first management position, but is also ideal for team leaders and supervisors. It’s ideally aimed at equipping those with the aspirations to move into management with the skills they need to manage effectively.� Greenway went on to say, “Over the course of 12 months students will cover topics

are awarded a JET 1 certificate and are entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. The Education Department would like to congratulate both candidates on their hard work, and wish for them continued success in their work and future studies. For more information on the JET courses, go to www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). To learn more about Bransom visit: www.bransom.co.uk

relating to self and team management, leadership, how to get the right people and develop their team’s skills. The course includes a Learning Guide and is presented in six modules, split into 12 units, with six Work Based Assignments to aid the transfer of learning back in to the workplace. On successful completion of the course participants leave with the Professional Jewellers’ Management Diploma – a well known and industry-recognised qualification.� JETPlus is an ideal follow-on from JET 1 & 2. I am unaware of any other product in the market specifically targeted at retail jewellery management. This is one thing that makes JETPlus unique,� he concluded. For more information on JETPlus or any other NAG education offerings, please contact the Education Department via 020 7613 4445 or jet@jewellers-online.org.

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ DIPLOMA

BOOST STAFF CONFIDENCE AND IMPROVE SALES 

The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma is packed with information on effective selling designed       Get all the practical skills that a jeweller needs in two bite-sized online assessment chunks (known as JET 1 and JET 2  product knowledge and selling skills, customer service, hallmarking, gemstones, metals (gold, platinum, palladium and silver),

the programmes also cover: JET 1 Online: New designers, personal development, rings, silverware and gifts. JET 2 Online: Alternative shopping,       

 

           

Invest in staff training and get ahead of the competition by contacting the NAG now on: tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email jet@jewellers-online.org or visit www.jewellers-online.org The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

The Voice of the Industry 25


| NAG News: IRV Review

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NAG Valuation Days – good for your customers, good for you and good for the Institute The long-awaited NAG Valuation Days organised by the IRV are finally here! Sandra Page explains all. uring 2013 the Institute will be heavily promoting NAG Valuation Days through its website and media coverage with the aim of getting more IRV valuations out there. Whether you are a retailer looking to increase your valuation business or a trade valuer wishing to enjoy the one-to-one appointments with clients, we have developed the tools to help you get the most out of NAG Valuation Days.

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Why hold a Valuation Day? There are a few good reasons: with the increase in metal, diamond and gemstone prices, valuations as recent as two years old are out-of-date and ‘not fit for purpose’; burglaries are on the increase, and more and more insurance companies are insisting on valuations carried out by NAG IRVs. Footfall has declined in some areas with the price of jewellery soaring; by offering the opportunity for customers to ‘Meet the Valuer’ and have their items valued in-store while they wait, you will build on existing client relationships and forge bonds with new ones – an ideal opportunity to promote your business and increase your client base. Many clients are unwilling to have their items sent away even briefly, so an NAG Valuation Day offers the client peace of mind; they are able to stay with their jewellery and talk to the valuer about the history or design of their jewellery on a one-to-one basis. Building a strong valuation business generates additional repair business, remodelling opportunities and add-on sales.

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Preparation is the key to success As with most things in life the key to success is in the planning and preparation. The Institute will provide you with a range of material to help you on your way. Whether you have your own in-house valuer or plan to use the services of an independent trade valuer, we have posters and leaflets to suit your needs – available on request. Start to plan at least two months ahead, talk to the valuer to ascertain what their requirements are and how they wish to work. NAG Valuation Days can be tailored to suit your business, the valuer and the client. Decide if you want to limit the type of valuation carried out on the day to insurance valuations only or whether you and the valuer would be happy to carry out probate or other types of valuations. Whatever you decide training staff on the different types of valuation is important if they are to advise clients correctly. The valuer may also wish to contribute to the staff training – an excellent way to build lasting working relationships. Once you have a date in the diary and the staff are ready; start by sending letters to existing clients in your database (we can supply a template ‘letter for retailer to send to customer database’). When a client calls to book, follow up with a confirmation letter (a template is available).

Try and tell every customer about the wonderful opportunity to ‘Meet the Valuer’ and give them a leaflet (template available). Your valuer should supply a sample valuation to show the client what they can expect – this will greatly increase your bookings and, of course, the more people you tell the more bookings you will get! We have designed posters to advertise your special day (shown below); available for using an in-house IRV or trade IRV. You can also submit your Valuation Day details to me (the IRV Co-ordinator) for inclusion on the dedicated NAG Valuation Day webpage – a free-of-charge service specially designed to help your Valuation Day online presence. Advertising the day need not be expensive – we have designed an advertorial template, which you can adapt to suit your business and area. Other ways to advertise include: • local village/town newsletters • your website • the town or county local website • local post office, doctor or dentist surgery etc. • local radio station – short interview public interest story All the above listed options are relatively cheap or even free! Finally, decide whether you are going to charge a deposit at the time of booking –


NAG News: IRV Review |

remember if a person fails to attend, the time could be used as ‘catch-up’ or staff training time so all will not be lost, but discussions with your valuer will help you decide what is best for your business. To help the retailer we have compiled ‘A Retailers’ Introduction to Holding an In-store NAG Valuation Day’ and similarly to help the independent/trade valuer we have the ‘Valuers Guide’. We have kept the process as simple and as effective as possible with the option to adapt the material to ensure your Valuation Day is as unique and individual as you are.

Making appointments Now you are ready to start taking bookings – the appointment sheet (template available) has been designed to allow 15 minutes per item with two half hour breaks for the valuer to have lunch or catch up. The sheet may be adapted to suit your opening hours and the valuer’s requirements – discuss with them and alter the sheet accordingly.

We suggest 15 minutes per item to give the valuer enough time to carry out a thorough appraisal, record the details and have dialogue with the client. Please bear in mind that some items will require more time to appraise, such as items with many stones, complex antique pieces, etc. Discuss the items to be valued at the time of booking so you can advise the client whether this may be the case. Don’t stop talking about your day just because it is full! Keep a separate list of clients who could not be accommodated so you can call them if there is a cancellation. Some clients might even like to leave their jewellery with you for the valuer to do if time allows throughout the day or after the day itself. Suggest the client comes in 15 minutes early for their appointment so you can clean their jewellery if necessary before they sit down with the valuer. It is also a good idea to have a member of staff available to help the valuer during the day if required and to show the clients

anything that ‘catches their eye’ – this all adds to the personal service which will set you apart from the rest. If facilities allow you may like to offer refreshments such as coffee and biscuits during the appointment.

The paperwork The paperwork will be sent to the store within five to seven working days for collection; this allows the valuer time for the necessary research and, of course, the client loves the special attention their pieces are given. We hope NAG Valuation Days will be very popular with our members and that you will consider holding one. If you are an IRV or have one on your staff, contact me on 029 2081 3615 or email: irv@jewellers-online.org for the templates (and don’t forget to let me know the dates of your Valuation Day so I can promote them on the IRV website). For those members without an IRV of their own please ask for a list of trade IRVs who are available to run Valuation Days.

The Voice of the Industry 27


| NAG News: IRV Review

Crash test dummies Pilot scheme student Alan Wetherall talks CAT to Miles Hoare ince early last year the NAG has been sounding off about the brand new Certificate of Appraisal Theory. The new programme, affectionately known as CAT, will form part of an extensive training package for those seeking to become a member of the NAG Institute of Registered Valuers. This new pre-requisite of IRV membership has been a long time coming but with a recently completed pilot run it seems that the start of CAT is just upon the horizon. With this in mind, The Jeweller spoke to CAT Pilot Scheme student Alan Wetherall of Cellini Jewellers in Cambridge to find out what it is really like, what questions the pilot posed, and what students can expect from the IRV’s new offering.

S

Alan, please tell us about yourself… I have been working in the trade for 10 years at Cellini Jewellers, an independent jeweller in Cambridge. During this time I have been working with our internal valuer and preparing work for our external valuer and therefore it has been a natural progression that I would learn the craft myself. So I’ve been working towards that end; after taking the basic trade courses I progressed to take the FGA and DGA courses and I am a regular attendee at the Loughborough Conference. CAT is the final piece of the jigsaw in preparation to join the IRV. What was your general impression of CAT? This is a very good programme, and will be of great use to the aspiring valuer. To my knowledge there is no other certificate like this in the UK and this is a great step forward for both the NAG and IRV. Initially I found it quite text heavy – however, it’s broken up into sections and each section is in turn broken down into bite size chunks making it easy on the eye and easy to follow. The programme modules are presented on a memory stick and I found it difficult to read on the computer screen for long periods of time. However, I resolved this by printing a hard copy and I found this much more convenient and easier to use. However, for those who want to learn on the go and take their notes everywhere, it would be really useful. How useful did you find CAT’s content and modules? I have been moving towards becoming a valuer for some time and modules will be extremely useful to the aspiring valuer.

28 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

I discovered that there were gaps in my knowledge and gained a lot of new information in the process. These notes will be of benefit to aspiring valuers not only for completing the programme but also in future years as a point of reference. Although experienced valuers are probably aware of most of the information contained within the modules, I am sure that even these experts would find the notes very useful as a reference manual and to act as a refresher for any gaps in their knowledge. What did you get from the pilot? I gained a much greater understanding of what is known as ‘valuation science’. The programme is very thorough and takes you step by step through the process of carrying out a valuation. I am confident in most aspects of valuations for insurance purposes.

of its type in the UK and it should become the norm that valuers should be expected to attain qualifications to show they have reached high levels/standards of skill and professionalism. It’s expected in other industries – so why not valuations? Had you not been involved in the pilot would you have taken CAT? Would you take it now, knowing what you know? I would definitely have applied to take CAT. I had previously applied to take the original JET Valuations course and it was disbanded around the time my application arrived at the NAG. I would still take the course knowing what I know now. This is a great programme and one which the NAG/IRV should be proud of! I know that a lot of time and effort has gone into producing CAT and everybody involved should be congratulated.

Valuers should… attain qualifications to show they have reached high levels/standards of skill and professionalism. It’s expected in other industries – so why not valuations? However, CAT explains the theory of all other types of valuation, probate, family division etc, and this is where my knowledge was greatly expanded. It was particularly interesting to learn how auctioneers calculate their values and how this can then help a valuer – this was explained in module two.

Only good can come from it – it shows that the IRV is a professional body committed to raising the standards of valuing in the UK. I would just like to say thank you for the opportunity to take part and hope that my input as a pilot student will have assisted in getting CAT off to a successful start.

What do you think CAT will bring to the IRV and the jewellery industry at large? CAT is one of the pre-requisites for joining the IRV and therefore if you are hoping to attain IRV status you need to complete and pass the CAT exam. This is the first scheme

CAT is undergoing a post pilot review. For those who have already applied CAT is likely to be available in March. If interested in the Programme, or in the IRV contact Sandra Page on: 029 20813 615, irv@jewellers-online.org or visit: www.jewelleryvaluers.org.


Your Career Will Sparkle At Princess Cruises Your career in jewelry will shimmer-sparkle-and-shine at Princess Cruises, known worldwide as The Consummate Host®. If you’re an experienced fine jewelry sales professional who truly understands the strength of delivering unparalleled customer service when selling fine jewelry, then consider joining our dynamic onboard sales team. In fact, Princess has the only “in-house” retail jewelry operation at sea, making for a fast-paced environment with a great chance for career advancement. And best of all, our employees have the best base salary in the industry with additional bonus potential. Successful candidates will experience a progressive company that achieves ongoing high standards by focusing on innovation, integrity, accountability, and above all customer service. You must be creative, hard working, and you must embrace retail jewelry sales with a passion. We offer a wide range of exquisite precious and semi-precious jewelry featured exclusively to our discriminating passengers. Positions for Fine Jewelry Sales Associates ˜ G][b]¾WUbhYldYf]YbWY]b¾bY^YkY`fmfYhU]`gU`Yg`UbXcfgYU ˜ 9l\]V]hghfcb[diV`]WgdYU_]b[g_]``g ˜ CáYfUdfcZYgg]cbU`XYaYUbcfh\UhXYacbghfUhYg\cbYghm]bhY[f]hm ˜ 5V]`]hmhcgiWWYYX]bUhfiYhYUaYbj]fcbaYbh ˜ =bgh]bWh]jYVY`]YZh\UhWighcaYfgYfj]WY]g^cVbiaVYfcbY See the world… experience great cultures… and grow professionally with one of the most successful cruise lines in the world. Take advantage of the best employee lifestyle at sea, including in-cabin wifi, onboard crew store, healthy dining choices, onboard specialty trainers, and we offer great 6-month contract terms. If you want to take advantage of this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, please apply at www.princess. com or send your CV to princess.recruitment@princesscruises.co.uk. At Princess, we do it right. LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR THE WRONG JOB. THAT’S WHY AT PRINCESS WE DO IT RIGHT.

Named “Best Onboard Shopping” by Portholes Magazine for 4 Years Running (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 Readers’ Choice Awards)


o, what’s the big issue facing retailers of wedding jewellery these days? The rising cost of gold? Fierce competition from on-line sellers? Increasingly clued-up customers? The decreasing disposable income of a recession-hit public? Fewer weddings…? Well, clearly it’s all of the above – to a greater or lesser extent depending on who you ask. At the risk of over-stating the case (and I’m already getting bored by my own platitudes when it comes to this subject) one of the most insistent threats as far as diamond rings are concerned – simple solitaires in particular – is the internet-only trader. Call me an old-fashioned old sentimentalist, but personally I see nothing romantic about trawling the net for the ring of my dreams, but that’s only part of the story of course. “The internet is educating customers about the prices – they then use this knowledge as a negotiating tool. The margins used by on-line retailers for solitaires are often very low, so it’s tricky for the retailer to compete,” says Ed Adams of EW Adams. Elaborating on the situation further Lee Rubens of Gemex agrees. “With a certificated stone there is a benchmark for every single criteria – colour, clarity, cut grade, symmetry, polish, size, table depth, florescence etc etc and it’s very easy to compare like with like,” he says. “All it takes is half an hour of a novice’s time to find out if they’re getting a good deal or not. For those wary of purchasing a high value item on the internet, they can always take the information they’ve found directly to the retailer and force them to compete. So, even if the retailer does end up winning the business, they’ll often find that their margins have been squeezed just to get it.”

S

Domino

R

keeping the

omance alive...

If love is in the air seize the moment with a marriage of beautiful designs, amazing choice, exemplary service and a personal touch that turns wedding jewellery shopping into an experience, says Belinda Morris

30 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

Gemex


Feature |

Clogau Gold

The on-line versus bricks and mortar issue can also work in a reverse manner – with the traditional retailer still losing out as Vivian Watson of PJ Watson explains. “A potential customer who chooses to buy on-line is an opportunity lost for a long-term relationship,” he says. “One of the problems the retailer has to address is how to handle the type

internet sellers are working on a five to ten per cent margin and because they don’t have the overheads of a brick and mortar business, they are more likely to get away with it.” An obvious – if unpalatable – solution lies with margins. “The internet has been steadily taking its share of our retail shop customers,” says Gary Sinclair of PH Rings, “and fighting back means accepting your bottom line in profitability.” Vivian Watson agrees: “Lower margins are necessary if the

“On the internet, all it takes is half an hour of a novice’s time to find out if they’re getting a good deal or not…”

Foundation Jewellery

of shopper who is just there to collect information. A careful and sensitive approach has to be made to help the enquirer see the benefits of dealing with a local company.”

Fighting back

jeweller is to remain competitive. In most cases people will buy on line because they believe there is a price advantage.” Ed Adams has also noticed some jewellers beating the e-tailers at their own game.

Stubbs & Co

“Some independent retailers have launched their own on-line collection of diamonds, which they have priced very competitively. This collection is also available in-store, offering the customer the added benefit of trying rings on in a very luxurious retail environment,” he explains. “This has proved a very useful strategy for winning new customers and showing the consumer that their prices are very competitive.” The right product at the right price has proved to be a successful formula for Glasgow-based Tankel. “The UK diamond and jewellery market has never been more price sensitive and our customers are able to sell diamonds as long as their customers believe that they have been offered excellent value for money,” says Tony Tankel. The company’s major success last year was in sales of its one carat brilliant cut single stone ring, he says and although not clean, any marks are slight and the non-treated, nonlasered stones look white and lively.

Service and a smile While the internet is clearly having an effect, it’s also obvious that a high street jeweller can offer many things that can’t be had on-line. “This is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase and the majority of people still prefer to touch and feel,” says a spokesperson at Corona.

Charles Green

Not an easy one. When it comes to the aforementioned single certified stone set in a plain engagement ring mount, the traditional retailer can’t fight back according to Ruben. “The problem is that the certified diamond business is a volume business – you have to sell them by the bucket load to realise a good profit,” he argues. “Some

The Voice of the Industry 31




| Feature PH Wedding Rings

“The intimacy of a one-to-one sale for such a personal purchase is still important. Retailers can fight back by making the purchase a pleasurable experience.” Sinclair agrees. “What retailers do have is human expertise, flexibility, bespoke creativity and honesty – these traits need to be honed to perfection. And they should be coupled with offering repairs and other services at nominal prices to keep the shop at the front of the mind for future visits and referrals.”

Diamonfire

Warming to the theme, Watson adds that a visit to a shop must be made into an experience and this can be achieved by hospitality both at the time of the visit and later. “A commitment to after sales can be a huge advantage. Free cleaning may cost a little but the benefits are huge,” he says. “Not only could it tip the scales, but it will ensure that the customers keep coming back. There are bound to be other occasions when they want to buy jewellery.” Changing the approach to sales would also help the retailer to fight back says David Shem-Tov of Stubbs & Co. “Instead of trying

32 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

to merely present a selection from which their customers can choose, they should look at transforming the sales experience into a consultative one. For example, they can show their customers how they can customise their engagement ring and how this initial acquisition will look with the wedding ring and perhaps eternity rings they would look to acquire later,” he explains. “Service, knowledge, quality and choice – they’re all important and it is also imperative that the consumer is offered a shopping experience second to none,” adds John Ball of Brown & Newirth. “As a manufacturer we are able to offer our retailers flexibility and choice with an unrivalled portfolio and

“…the certified diamond business is a volume business – you have to sell them by the bucket load to realise a good profit…”

bespoke service that is not immediately available on-line.” Jez Banks of Alfred Terry explains that the company is working hard on its 1909 Origins collection and developing a concept that aims to enable the retailer to give their customer a greater level of service and choice. “It means are rings are bought for their beauty and desirability rather than for their commodity value,” he says.

Tankel

Ringing the changes Another obvious response to the problem of not being able to compete on the simple, classic styles… is don’t try. “Margins can be maintained or improved by adding value,” says Watson. “A design other than a solitaire offers more and a coloured stone is less

Molly B Couture




BEAUTIFUL STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY Hall 18 Stand L61 sales@bouton.co.uk +44 (0) 8445 220 012 Norfolk Place, Paddington, London, W2 1QJ


Feature | Bringing love stories to life…

Brown & Newirth

sensitive to price comparison. There has also been a demand for larger diamonds of all shapes, supported by smaller diamonds in a micro-pavé setting.” Ed Adams also feels that the answer lies in offering variety. “Stocking more unusual engagement rings such as micro-pavé set rings with fancy shape centre diamonds, or coloured stone engagement rings – both of which always look great value – offer the customer something exceptional and are harder to price-compare,” he explains. “We are offering our customers a great selection of fancy shape diamond rings, in milgrain or mirco-pavé settings, along with collection of fine coloured stone engagement rings. We are working very hard to produce these rings at very competitive prices, and we are working on tighter margins too.”

LA10

While classics may be popular, wedding jewellery is undoubtedly subject to fashion. “To keep ahead of their competitors retailers need to keep their offer fresh and pertinent,” says Domino’s Andrew Sollitt. “To help them to do this our bridal collection is constantly updated and its in-house designers ensure that even the most classic rings have a contemporary twist.

Last November Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design opened its Jewellery Centre – now proving to be a hit with loved-up couples. Kelsall explains the idea behind the move: “When we were coming up with the concepts one theme we kept returning to was how we bring love stories to life. When couples make their design appointment, it’s a very big deal for them and us – they’re not just turning up to pick a ring out and have it re-sized, they’re talking to our designers to produce arguably the most important piece of jewellery they will ever own – one that will symbolise their love for each other and what makes them unique as a couple. “So it was really important that the new Jewellery Centre has a romantic, calm and pleasant atmosphere and we didn’t want it to be intimidating or over the top. A common myth with bespoke jewellery is that it’s super expensive when actually one of its advantages is that it can be designed to suit almost any budget. “Some couples know exactly what they want and have their heart set on a certain stone, setting and metal whereas others are starting from a completely blank canvas. In this case, we use certain tools to help them work out what they do and don’t like. We might show them rings from our ready to wear collection and look at what they’re drawn to in terms of colour, stones and settings. We might also show them some gemstones to inspire them – perhaps something they’ve never seen before. “Because we are designers, we also ask them what they do for a living, and if they have hobbies or interests, so we can make recommendations based on practical aspects, but also begin to delve deeper into their personalities as this has an impact on the design. At a certain point the designer will start to get a picture in his or her head of a design and be able to sketch this out in front of the customer. It’s not just an art form but really valuable to the customer as they can start to see a design coming to life.”

“We also give retailers an edge by giving their customers the chance to choose a ring that’s perfect for them. With a new guaranteed carat weight specific range, ranging from 0.15ct to 1.0ct in a choice of HSI or GVS diamonds, this new collection offers a wedding ring for all budgets and occasions. Plus, for 2013 there is a wider range of profiles in a choice of heavy, medium or light and a range of attractive finishes. Domino can now also work from scratch to create a truly oneoff design,” he adds. Which is another key to trumping the internet seller. “Offering a bespoke service is

central to gaining more sales,” says jewellery designer Alexis Dove. “It’s about offering unique design and choices so that the ring becomes custom made, as well as unique or unusual gemstones and excellent customer service. We specialise in fancy coloured sapphires and cinnamon diamonds for instance.” Similarly, Alexander Davis finds that his customers come to him specifically for his designs – and that is his point of difference. And as he works with customers to choose their stones specifically and innovation is key to his designs, the end results are not going to be available online.

Corona

The Voice of the Industry 35




| Feature

Accepting a helping hand In fact jewellery retailers would be wise to accept all the help on offer from their suppliers. Domino for instance supports its latest wedding ring collection with both a new trade brochure and a glossy, consumerfacing catalogue which can be personalised for each retailer’s individual store. As well as its point-of-sale material and catalogues, PH Rings offers some (or even all) of its

E W Adams

Brand awareness “Building a brand is the key to survival,” insists Gemex’s Ruben. “When a brand is powerful, the consumer will pay, no matter what it takes, just to ensure that they own a piece of it. We receive between 40 and 50 enquiries a week from brides and prospective customers looking for a Raphael Collection ring they've seen on our website. They refer to the collection by name and you can tell that they associate the brand with luxury quality and don't want to compromise. We in turn recommend these prospective buyers to our retail partners across the UK and Ireland and help them convert these customers into sales. Just arrived on the wedding jewellery scene is the first ever bridal collection from Georg Jensen – a sought-after brand if ever there was one. Introduced first into its Bond Street store, the aim is for it to be generally available later this year. Typical of the Danish brand’s contemporary style, the rings come in platinum, 18 carat white or yellow gold with one style featuring a single solitaire

Alexis Dove

36 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

suspended in a striking setting and a wedding band encrusted with pavé set diamonds. Having a brand that offers something special also helps. “Communicating the unique brand position of using a touch of rare Welsh gold in our jewellery is absolutely key to the brands long term success,” says Sonia Menezes of Clogau. “We offer every Clogau retailer a web site, tailored to meet every question they may have about the brand. Information about each piece of jewellery from design concept to diamond specification is available to all retailers. We also offer branded customer events, bespoke point of sale and parity across web and in-store promotions,” she adds.

“What retailers do have is human expertise, flexibility, bespoke creativity and honesty – these traits need to be honed to perfection”

Alexander Davis

range in Argentium silver, which will allow retailers to ‘coat windows and display areas for a nominal cost.” At Charles Green on-line help is at hand with up-to-the-minute prices and its own selling tool jewelleryinstore.com, as well as a bespoke service. And at Stubbs & Co there’s the innovative Configuring, a software tool that works on tablets enabling retailers to demonstrate to customers how the engagement ring they have chosen can be customised by using different diamond sizes or alloys and how that would look with matching engagement and wedding ring. “This kind of experience can only be delivered in a retail shop environment and cannot be replicated by a website as the images of the application draw their power and credibility from the ring the consumer is holding,” explains Shem-Tov. It may be a tough call, but Ruben feels that Gemex’s Raphael Collection has a solution




| Feature Retailer views on the jewellery market: “Customers are generally playing it safe with off-the-shelf diamond set classics and on the whole it is men shopping alone that we see.” Peter Wong, Wongs, Liverpool “Without a doubt it’s a growing trend for men to have a ring. They’d actually be quite happy not to have one, but their partner wants them to. It’s quite funny.” Nick Fitch, Nicholas James, Hatton Garden “We have seen a large rise in sales of our antique and period jewellery. I think people are prepared to pay for quality but they know they get a little bit more for their money buying a second hand item. White gold and platinum are the mainstay but we have seen a marked rise in people asking for yellow gold.” Brian Turner, Grey-Harris & Co, Bristol “Recently, we have noticed an increase in the popularity of clusters for engagement rings and also twist rings.” Harriet Kelsall, Hertfordshire and Cambridge “The average spend on an engagement ring has remained pretty consistent over the past few years at around £2,000 and we are seeing lots of customers come in with jewellery that they'd like to reuse – a really lovely and effective way of incorporating jewellery that adds sentimental value to a new piece,” Harriet Kelsall, Hertfordshire and Cambridge “We sell a contemporary engagement ring, but very much with a commercial mindset behind it. People enjoy seeing the weird and the wacky – but not enough to buy it. On a scale of one to ten, they go up to five to feel comfortable.” Nick Fitch, Nicholas James “No we don’t get asked about ethical diamonds anymore and neither have we been asked about dirty gold. We have however trained our staff regarding the Kimberley process.” Peter Wong, Wongs, Liverpool

Carat

to help retailers with their certificated diamond sales. “We’re investing over £1,200,000 in an exciting, innovative new range of finished and semi-set engagement rings called Cherish which emulates the pure magic of our eternity rings and wedding bands,” he explains. “All our rings have a flush-fit profile meaning they sit snug with any wedding band or eternity ring. It's ultimately due to our design, quality, aesthetics and innovation that will win the certificated diamond sales

“The large emerald cut seems to be very popular at the moment, for both diamonds and coloured stones, and we are also designing lots of rings featuring aquamarine and blue stones in an art deco style.” Harriet Kelsall, Hertfordshire and Cambridge “I think in general people are a little bit more relaxed about what colour suits them, and we have seen a small trend towards the young wanting yellow gold, both to be different, but driven also by romantic, sentimental reasons. Yellow gold offers both tradition and heritage in these unpredictable times.” Jon Dibben, Cranleigh, Surrey

Georg Jensen

for our traditional retail partners… because we don't supply internet-only businesses. I think design will win it for the retailer every time.”

Something for the boys… Mounir

38 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

The same rule should surely apply to men’s wedding jewellery. “Our groom-to-be market has flourished in recent years. This is due to two factors, one is the rise in palladium,




Feature | Selling platinum as a wedding jewellery metal Platinum Guild International offers the following words of wisdom to aid sales of the most popular of precious metals for wedding jewellery: • Offer platinum first – give the consumer the option to choose the best • Don’t make assumptions – deciding that a customer couldn’t afford platinum before speaking to them means you are far less likely to get a platinum sale • Speak to the customer about wedding rings when they are looking at engagement rings – the engagement ring is likely to be the first purchase from the wedding budget, you have the opportunity to secure a platinum ring sale before the budget is allocated on other things!

Lily & Lotti

which we offer for all of our designs and have spent time and money promoting. The other is that we have invested in new designs and collections for men in our latest ranges,” says Phillip Beale of Charles Green. At Domino, while plain bands are still far and away the most popular option, the brand has recently introduced two new designs which can be set with either diamonds or black sapphires. There are also optional finishes available to add a personal touch to a classic band. Men’s rings are buoyant too at PH Rings, with widths of seven to 17mm still very strong. “There has been an increase in laser patterns over the last 18 months but, while she buys 18ct, we’ve noticed a tendency for his ring to be in 9ct,” reports Sinclair. And for those looking for an alternative wedding ring, Alfred Terry is introducing REVV, a men’s range

… and a few key messages PGI presents around platinum’s unique properties: • Pure: Platinum’s naturally white lustre helps reflect the true radiance of diamonds Platinum does not fade or tarnish, but keeps its pure white colour for a lifetime • Rare: If all the platinum ever mined was poured into an Olympic swimming pool, it would scarcely cover your ankles. The world’s gold would fill more than three pools • Eternal: Platinum will last for generations, a fitting tribute to an enduring relationship and an heirloom to hand on • Due to its superior strength when drawn into fine jewellery settings platinum is the most secure way to hold diamonds • Platinum has a substantial weight to it – you can feel the difference when wearing a platinum ring • By choosing platinum you ensure your wedding bands will look as good on your diamond wedding anniversary as on the day you were married

D for Diamond

of jewellery and rings in mixed materials such as titanium, tungsten, ceramic and carbon fibre, as well as gold and silver.

… and finally, something extra for the girls

Alfred Terry

The subject of bridal jewellery wouldn’t be complete without mention of all the extra pieces that could amount to potential sales. Traditional wedding dresses (ivory, cream, champagne…) require something that the bride-to-be may well be looking for, and

nine times out of ten that means pearls. Forgetting ‘something borrowed’ for a moment (let that be a garter) it would be wise to have a comprehensive selection of pretty, as well as contemporary, pearl (or pale stone) earrings and necklaces to wow them with. For gifts for the bridesmaids and flower girls think sugar pastel pearls as well as cute hearts and flower style charms. Carat, Molly B Couture, LA 10, Lily & Lotty, Mounir and D for Diamond are among the many brands (who happen also to be exhibiting at The Jewellery Show) who offer the perfect solutions for the Big Day. 

The Voice of the Industry 41


The Scottish Gemmological Association

Conference 2013 3rd to 6th May 2013 at the Hydro, Peebles

‘Tanzanite, Spinel, Colombian Emeralds, Coloured Stone Trends, Gem Cutting History, Ethiopian Opals, Pearls under the Hammer‘ Hands-on workshops and a gala Ceilidh Dinner too! Speakers : Chris Smith, Clare Blatherwick, Claudio Milisenda, Jack Ogden, James Riley, Ron Ringsrud, Stuart Robertson Workshops : David Callaghan, Rheanan Henderson, Alan Hodgkinson, Cigdem Lule, Claudio Milisenda, Jack Ogden, Ron Ringsrud, Stuart Robertson Field Trip : Peter Dallas

Details and online booking at www.scotgem.co.uk/SGAConference2013


The Gemmological Association of Great Britain

Gems & Jewellery in The Jeweller magazine An introduction by James Riley of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) Readers of The Jeweller may be a little surprised to be both reading an article by me but also to see some pages from Gem-A’s Gems & Jewellery (G&J) in your magazine. As has been mentioned in the news pages, this is the start of a joint operation between our two organisations reflecting our mutual history and future cooperation. For those of you who are retailers and are not familiar with G&J, I hope you will find it both informative and useful as it combines history with relevant gem information on things happening now. If you want to know the latest on glass-filled rubies or synthetic diamonds – and you should with the public becoming more familiar with them – or if you haven’t come across cobalt glass-filled sapphire, we will have the low-down! The new year represents a landmark for the NAG and Gem-A as it is the 100th anniversary of the first gemmological exams. Diploma number 1 (shown below) awarded to Samuel Barnett hangs in

Michael Hoare’s office. It is also the 50th anniversary of the Diamond Diploma – one of the first group to take the course was past NAG chairman and president Richard Peplow. I mention these anniversaries because they are not just part of Gem-A’s history but also that of the NAG and it is only right that they should be celebrated together. I hope many of you will be able to join us at the Gem-A anniversary conference at Goldsmiths’ Hall in November. In the following few pages you will find a taster of the sort of articles that appear in G&J. Amongst these is a review of the 60th anniversary conference of the Midlands Branch of Gem-A. Brainchild of NAG stalwart and chairman Norman Harper, it is a true survivor at a local level, much like the NAG Yorkshire section. These local branches deserve all the encouragement they can get and if you have one near you, do support it. There is also a report on the upcoming Tucson Gem Shows, regarded as being the finest in the world. Helen Serras-Herman advises on the must-sees, and dos and don’ts, at this remarkable event. Much of the information is relevant to the Rock and Gem Fair here in the UK and there are some pointers for those of you involved in buying loose gems or gem-set jewellery. This sort of sums up what Gem-A is about… It exists to promote gemmological knowledge specific to the jewellery trade. It is there to help you if you are a sole trader through to a multiple retailer,

gem hobbyist through to international trader. There are numerous courses available (see page 48) which complement rather than compete with the NAG education programme, with special rates on some courses for NAG members. Shortly our new Gem Basics course will be available through the NAG as a stepping stone between Jet 2 and the Gem-A Foundation course. It could be a stepping stone all the way to our Diploma which recently was granted Level 6 status by Ofqual (equivalent to an undergraduate degree). These courses are not only available in London but also in Birmingham. In addition, we can offer a bespoke service, tailoring a course to your particular needs. In the meantime, I wish you all a most prosperous 2013.

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Gems&Jewellery / Jan/Feb 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

Tucson Gem Shows 2013 The Tucson gem shows are the largest and most important gem shows in the world. Anyone who is anyone makes the annual pilgrimage to find the most obscure stones priced from a few cents to hundreds of thousands of dollars. Here Helen Serras-Herman MFA FGA offers a guide of dos and don’ts and what you might see. If you’re not going this year, it might whet your appetite for 2014. Every February the world’s most respected researchers, gemmologists, authors, artists, miners and trade companies from all over the world come together in Tucson for the gem shows, the annual conferences of the industry’s associations and for lecture presentations. Tucson is located in scenic southern Arizona, at the northern part of the Sonora desert, completely surrounded by mountains. For the veteran Tucson gem show buyers — those who have been attending these shows for many years and have their routes and dealer relationships established — many of the following points are part of their daily routine. Their past visits have trained them how to allocate time and money throughout their annual trek to the world’s biggest gem, jewellery, mineral and fossil show. They may add a new experience or tweak their itinerary, but they know what to expect and come prepared. The experience is most enjoyable but for first-time attendees it can be truly overwhelming.

The Tucson Convention Center, located in the heart of downtown, is the centre of the Tucson gems shows, with two venues held there back-to-back.

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Pearls and beads are piled up high on the tables at many shows. If you are buying one item, one stone or one strand, cherry-picking from a pile of rough, or high-grading gemstones, expect to pay list price.

The 2013 shows will run from Friday 1 to Sunday 17 February and there will be about 40 show venues held all over the city. Two shows take place at the Convention Center within two consecutive weeks, while others fill huge tents. Many shows take place at hotels, packing exhibition halls, ballrooms, courtyards, and ground floor hotel rooms with their immediate outside patio spaces. Some venues are local rock shops and galleries, while even vacant lot spaces fill up with vendors. A few shows are thematic, such as bead or mineral shows; others are known for good lapidary rough materials or cut gemstones, and many shows have a wide variety. Some shows are outside where dust covers everything, and when it rains the ‘rivers’ run through the tents, and there are puddles and mud everywhere.

But, when the sun is out, it is most enjoyable to stroll through the aisles or sit and take a break. There are a number of shows that span the entire two weeks, including the very first weekend before the main wholesale shows open, known as the ‘jump start’ shows. A core of wholesale shows exhibit almost concurrently during the first week. The American Gem Trade Association AGTA GemFair™ with about 300 participating exhibitors will be held at the Tucson Convention Center from Tuesday 5 to Sunday 10 February. It is the world’s premier collection of high-end gems and luxury jewellery. The Gem & Jewelry Exchange (GJX) sets up two large fully carpeted and climate-controlled tents with over 700 booths across from the Convention Center.


Gems&Jewellery / Jan/Feb 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

The show is well known for lapidary rough, opals, high-end gems and jewellery. The Intergem/GLDA show is located at the beautiful Marriott Star Pass Resort, six miles west of the Convention Center at the picturesque foothills of the Tucson Mountains. The Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers (GL&W) show is held at the Holiday Inn/Holidome and at Gem Mall show on the south side of town. Another popular ‘jump start’ show is JOGS Gem & Jewelry, held at the Tucson Expo Center. There is something for everyone at these shows: rough gem materials, slabs, cabs, beads, pearls, jewellery findings and finished jewellery. More gem shows are held in hotels along Interstate I - 10, or the ‘strip’ as it is known. They are open for wholesale buyers, but the public walks through. There are additional mineral and fossil oriented shows, bead shows, the Tucson Showplace, as well as the ever-growing Rock Show at Kino Sports Complex (formerly the Tucson Electric Park Show), free and open to the public.

Helen Serras-Herman with AM geodes. Large amethyst cathedral geodes from Brazil are popular items that attract a lot of attention from buyers.

‘Desert Pantheon’ necklace by the author who says: “Gems and jewellery ‘made-in America’ are recently enjoying a newly-found favouritism. My ‘Desert Pantheon’ necklace celebrates the Arizona gems — gem silica, drusy azurite, chrome pyrope ‘anthill’ garnets and azuritemalachite as well as fire opals from Mexico.

The Tucson Gem & Mineral Society (TGMS) will sponsor its 59th Annual Tucson Gem & Mineral Show™ (or the Main Event show as it is known) from Thursday 14 to Sunday 17 February. This was the original show that started it all back in the 1950s, as a modest venue, but the mild desert climate made it almost an instant success with people flocking in from other parts of the country and the world wanting to get out of the cold and the snow. The TGMS show is held at the Tucson Convention Center and is open to the public with an admission ticket. About 250 retail dealers and fabulous displays from museums world-wide and individuals fill the halls. These guest exhibit cases are one of the strong features of this show setting it apart from other shows. Every year when I display a guest exhibit case, it amazes me how the public lines up in front of these cases to admire it all. The 2013 show theme is Fluorite — Colors of the Rainbow and some breath-taking specimens will be on display.

Twenty tips to get the most from the shows Now that you have a better understanding of the depth and timeline of the shows, let’s talk about what is important to know that will help you navigate the shows: • Pick up copies of the show guides or go online for the Tucson Show Guide at www.jewelryshowguide.com, or a Tucson EZ-Guide at www.xpopress.com, and map your route for the shows. Make a plan and take it easy. It is virtually impossible to see everything.

Tables full of quartz crystals for every dollar amount wait for buyers.

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Gems&Jewellery / Jan/Feb 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

• Sometimes it is convenient to park your own car in one location and walk or use the shuttles to go around the shows. Other times, in spite of its cost, it is truly handy to have the car nearby, especially when you are carrying heavy packages. Park at the show venues very early in the morning or later in the day when buyers start leaving. If you rely on the shuttles, try to leave the shows at least one hour before closing time, as the shuttle queues can get really long. • Pre-register online to all wholesale shows that require a trade licence, and you will receive your badge(s) in the mail or by e-mail. That will truly save you a lot of time and energy from standing in long queues. • Bring along several copies of your Business Licence or Tax ID Certificate, and make sure you also have your driver’s licence, passport or other photo ID. • Bring along many business cards. They are part of your credentials. • Bring money in different forms, such as credit cards, cash, business cheques or traveller’s cheques, Several enormous azuritemalachite specimens were on display at the 2012 Tucson Electric Park show.

as you may encounter different demands and deals. • Is it wholesale or retail? Please keep in mind that, if you are buying one item, one stone or one strand, cherry-picking from a pile of rough or high-grading gemstones, expect to pay list price. The best way of reducing the price is by buying quantity, which means many items, many pounds of rough, a whole parcel of stones, many flats of minerals, or the entire hank of bead strands. • What is probably the most important tip is to keep detailed notes — which show, what item, what price, which dealer, what booth number, what day. At the end of the day or after a few days, it all becomes a blur. • Probably the biggest dilemma you will come across is whether to buy it now or later, or not at all. Here, of course, is where experience comes in, knowing the value of the items. For small purchases that may not be worth the effort to return, go ahead and buy them when you find them. But for larger purchases the best practice is to go around comparing quality and prices while

You can find great decorative furniture pieces like this wooden side table with polished slabs of mookaite (or mooka jasper) from Australia.

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taking good notes. That of course has the risk that when you come back your item it is not there anymore. But don’t panic, as long as you have money in your pocket there is always another good deal out there! Carry tools that you may need, such as a loupe, flashlight, tweezers, black light, books and extra tote bags for those unexpected heavy purchases. Have your camera on hand, but please, always be courteous and ask for permission before you take a photo of booths, merchandise or vendors. Some shows completely forbid photography. Wear comfortable shoes, hat and sunscreen for outdoor shows, and carry water as you can get tired and dehydrated very easy. Don’t be afraid to ask the dealers questions about the materials, their origin and treatments. The vendor will usually have an answer for you. A very important element of the Tucson gem shows is the educational side. Classes are offered for a fee on


Gems&Jewellery / Jan/Feb 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

jewellery-making, beading or gemmology, while there are many free lectures on gems, mining, treatments, photography, etc. • Another educational venue is the Galleria, the entry hall of the Tucson Convention Center, where during both shows, information booths are lined up. Gemmological and appraisers’ associations (GIA, Gem-A, NAJA), and the United States Geological Survey (USGS), just to name a few, are eager to give out information and flyers about their organisations. A number of national magazines may give out free copies, or offer special subscription rates. The Galleria is also the best place for networking, meeting fellow artists, lapidaries, authors and gemmologists. There are some very well-known people of the trade walking those aisles, and you may want to meet and talk to them. • Another key industry present at the Tucson shows is the equipment and tool dealers. All major lapidary companies have tents at the Tucson Electric Park show, including Diamond Pacific, Graves and Crystallite, where you can go and see and even try out some of the lapidary machines. Highly specialized diamond carving tools are also available. Gem testing equipment, scales, display stands and gift packaging items are offered at several shows.

Fabulous displays from museums worldwide and individuals fill the halls at the Tucson Gem & Mineral Show™ sponsored by the Tucson Gem & Mineral Society. This was the author’s Rhapsody in Blue past exhibit.

• Buy what you think is reasonable, what you can afford, and what you have to have. Buy some new material, new technology, or new tools. Buy something you don’t already have, or some more of what you have and like. Make a list of what you need to replace or replenish, but don’t stick to that list! Be open to surprises. Remember, that is why you are attending the shows. • Sit down often and rest, while jotting down your notes, have a drink or lunch, and you may make some new friends or hear about new materials or bargains.

back to see again and again, the camaraderie with fellow artists, the knowledge gained from a discussion or a lecture, the motivation for creation that you will gain from all the styles, shapes, colours and rocks that you will come across, and the inspiration from the desert landscapes, the rich native cultures, the bold food flavours and the spectacular sunsets. Let all that become the essence of the Tucson gem shows that will make you nostalgic for a return visit. Beautiful, colossal mineral specimens become part of artistic metal sculptures such as this fish sculpture, next to an old ore mining cart.

• While planning your trip, try making the Tucson gem show the excuse to tour Arizona’s copper and gold mines, celebrated national parks and rugged landscapes that made the West famous. Plan a visit to the renowned Arizona Desert Museum in Tucson, the Bisbee Historical Museum, or the Superstition Mountain Museum near Phoenix. • Above all, even though you are primarily shopping for your business and time and money are limited, remember what is important at the end. It is the friendships that you develop, the dealers that you come

All photos by Helen Serras-Herman and Andrew Herman

Helen Serras-Herman is an award-winning gem sculptor with 30 years of experience in unique gem sculpture and jewellery art. She was inducted in the National Lapidary Hall of Fame in 2003. She is a frequent article contributor to Rock & Gem Magazine and will be exhibiting at the AGTA GemFair Booth #1621 in the Gem Hall, and at the Tucson Gem & Mineral (TGMS) show Booth # 1606-1608. See her work at: www.gemartcenter.com

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Gems&Jewellery / Jan/Feb 2013

Recent Events

Diamond Jubilee dinner for the Midlands Gem-A It wasn’t just Her Majesty the Queen who celebrated 60 years in 2012. The Midlands branch of Gem-A also celebrated its Diamond Jubilee and marked the occasion with a dinner and conference at the Strathallan Hotel in Birmingham. Attendees were treated to a cross section of speakers who spoke on subjects that ranged from rock formations in the Auvergne – given by Davina Dryland – to a lifetime in the diamond business, by Evelyne Stern. Regular attendees at the IRV’s Loughborough Conference will be familiar with the excellent repartee of Stephen Whittaker, Alan Hodgkinson and David Callaghan, who all addressed this Gem-A audience. In addition and highly relevant to current practices in the diamond market, was a lecture by former Gem-A president and chairman, Professor Alan Collins, on causes of colour in diamond and how treatments affect the chemical structure and hence the colour. In what is a very technical area Alan simply and concisely explained exactly what was happening in such a way that even the most basic gemmologist could easily understand. The conference was attended by almost 100 delegates – which for a Sunday in December is highly commendable. Congratulations to Paul Phillips, Georgina Kettle and the committee of the Midlands branch for putting on such a good event.

Midlands branch President Doug Morgan explains gemmology in Black Country speak!

Gem-A Workshops: The Perfect One-day Introduction to Gemmology These practical one-day workshops will provide you with the perfect introduction to the fascinating world of gemmology and gemstones. No previous gemmological knowledge is necessary and with all equipment provided these workshops are suitable for everyone, from novice upwards. Whichever course you decide upon our tutor-guided practical sessions will enable participants to obtain a good basic understanding of the subject matter and become competent in the use of gemmological equipment. Fantastic value – one day workshops £100, or £80 for Gem-A, NAG or BJA members

Workshops in London Understanding Gemstones Friday 22 February, 10:00 – 16:30 Understanding Diamond Grading Friday 1 March, 10:00 – 16:30 Understanding Practical Gemmology Friday 15 March, 10:00 – 16:30 Understanding Diamond Simulants Friday 22 March, 10:00 – 16:30

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For further information visit our website: http://www.gem-a.com/news-events/ workshops.aspx To book directly please email: events@gem-a.com

Workshops in Birmingham Understanding practical gemmology Thursday 21 February, 10:00 – 16:30 BJA Headquarters Understanding diamond grading Friday 22 February, 10:00 – 16:30 BJA Headquarters

£80

Specia l of f NAG a er for all Gem nd B -A, (norma JA members l cost £100)


Gem-A Gemmology and Diamond Courses

Achieve your potential A strong knowledge of gemstones and diamonds will increase customer confidence and boost your sales. Gain that knowledge by studying with the world’s longest established educator in gemmology. Graduates may apply for election to Fellowship or Diamond membership of the Association enabling them to use the initials FGA or DGA after their name.

Open Distance Learning (Access to a computer with an internet connection is essential) Gemmology Foundation ODL Commencing 11 March 2013, duration nine months. Fee: £1,820 (or £2,150 including three-day London practical lab class) Gemmology Diploma ODL Commencing 18 March 2013, duration nine months. Fee: £2,050 (or £2,650 including five-day London practical)

On-Site Learning at Gem-A’s London headquarters Gemmology Foundation Commencing 11 February 2013, duration four months (evening course, two evenings a week). Fee: £1,600 Gemmology Diploma Commencing 14 February 2013, duration one year (evening course, two evenings a week). Fee: £2,650 Gemmology Foundation and Diploma (Special price for booking Foundation and Diploma courses at the same time)

Commencing 11 February 2013, duration 16 months (evening course, two evenings a week). Fee: £4,200 Commencing 1 May 2013, duration eight months (blended learning course). Fee: £6,950

Full details at www.gem-a.com/education.aspx or call +44 (0)20 7404 3334, email education@gem-a.com

Understanding gems 27 Greville Street (Saffron Hill entrance), London EC1N 8TN tel: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 fax: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 email:i nformation@gem-a.com UK Registered Charity No. 1109555


| Ethical Jeweller Alan Frampton of Cred Jewellery with the newly-arrived Fairtrade & Fairmined silver

Ethical silver has landed!

The world’s first Fairtrade & Fairmined silver arrives in UK red Jewellery, the fair trade jewellery pioneer, announced this month that it has brought the world’s first Fairtrade & Fairmined silver to the UK. As the industry approaches the two year anniversary of the launch of the mark for gold, and following 10 years of pioneering work on behalf of Cred – which saw the trading of fairly traded gold directly from miners to the consumer – the arrival of certified silver marks a significant turning point in the future of ethical jewellery. The first certified silver, which the company brought back from Peru in December, comes from the Sotrami mine, one of the mines certified as Fairtrade & Fairmined. The silver is found in small quantities alongside the deposits of gold, and so receives the same mark and is now available for wholesale from Cred Jewellery. While the jeweller will be using it for some of its own work, 2kgs have been earmarked for immediate sale. Cred anticipates access

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50 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

to 10kgs a month and therefore around 120kg in the first year – particularly as new mining areas come on line. “For the launch we will be producing some special ingots on chains. As the season develops we will be releasing collections produced by our existing producers in Nepal,” explains Alan Frampton, director of Cred. “By next Christmas all our jewellery will be made using Fairtrade metals.” Compared to its existing ranges it is expecting a price uplift of around five per cent at retail for the Fairtrade silver products. For some jewellery designers this move could not have come soon enough. “This is absolutely fantastic news – a great start to the new year!” says ethical jeweller Ute Decker. “I already use recycled silver and in terms of how I work and the pieces I make this will make no difference, but psychologically it’s a big hooray. I like to know the provenance of metal I use – it’s very important and

Fairtrade & Fairmined silver will make a big difference on the ground,” she adds. “With the Fairtrade & Fairmined premium I am expecting that this silver will lead to a mark-up of around 15 per cent on my pieces – which is fine – but I am waiting to see how prices generally will pan out. The main concern will be shipping. I would like to see a group of designers getting together to bring over a large batch to help bring the costs down. Anyone interested should do as I have done and get in touch with the refiners Capella as well as Cred.” “It is so exciting to have silver now join gold in this certification, made possible through the increasing demand from consumers for ethical metals,” says Frampton. “There are 51 licencee members of Fairtrade, however we expect a much bigger uptake for the silver due to the cheaper nature of the metal.” Since 2003 Cred Jewellery (founded by fair trade campaigner Greg Valerio) has been working directly with miners, developing standards to ensure safe working practices and a fair wage for the miners, to develop their communities, protect the environment, and ensure a transparent supply chain for the gold. These standards became the foundation of the Fairtrade and Fairmined certification for gold mines that was launched on Valentine’s Day 2011. There is more Fairtrade & Fairmined gold being sold year on year, with Cred in particular seeing sales of Fairtrade & Fairmined wedding and engagement rings up by 86 percent from 2011 to 2012. The company has now contributed over $100,000 in Fairtrade premiums to the mining communities in Peru, Bolivia & Colombia. As well as providing miners with good working conditions and a steady and fair income, the real story, says Cred, is of the impact the 10 per cent Fairtrade premium is making to the local communities, investing in socioeconomic areas. Receiving the Fairtrade & Fairmined standard means that the miners: • Have developed democratic and accountable organisations and formalised all their operations • Are using safe working practices including the management of toxic chemicals, such as mercury and cyanide, used in the gold recovery process • Are respectful with their environment • Recognise the rights of women miners www.credjewellery.com


J

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www.j-jaz.com Visit us at The Jewellery Show 2013 3rd - 7th February 2013, NEC Birmingham Hall 17 | Stand R10-S11 85 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8JR Tel: +44 (0)20 7831 6170

FEBRUARY 22 – 25, 2013 MESSE MÜNCHEN INTERNATIONAL INHORGENTA.COM CONTACT: PATTERN (TRADE FAIRS) LTD. TEL.: 020 3375 8230 INFO@PATTERN.CO.UK

The Voice of the Industry 51


| Security

A clear view on security Scott Sinden, MD of Essex Safety Glass explains how the latest developments in glass manufacturing can keep criminals at bay. t is alarming to see just how easy it is for thieves to break through glass in organised ‘smash and grab’ raids. Remarkably, gangs of repeat offenders scouring the UK are not necessarily using sophisticated weaponry. This was unfortunately the case for Fraser Hart of Brent Cross Shopping Centre, when on 6th November 2012, six criminals on three motorbikes reportedly stormed the jewellers mid-morning. Armed with bats and pickaxes they quickly seized high value watches and jewellery by smashing into glass cases. This followed just a matter of weeks after Selfridges’ in Manchester suffered a similar

I

Testing security glass with a drill

52 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

fate during opening hours when thieves managed steal a reported £1 million worth of designer watches within minutes. Of course, we don’t want to unnecessarily alarm owners but as the Metropolitan Police reports in its document Jewellers Personal Safety and Security Guide for Robbery, “Windows are an area of considerable vulnerability; in London a great many of the attacks against jewellers have taken the form of ‘smash and grab’ raids” with glass viewing cabinets at equal risk”. In particular, the Met’s report, which is fully supported by the NAG, states that: “Various tools, including pick axes and sledgehammers have been used by numerous offenders to attack the windows, doors and even display areas… For this reason the standards relating to shop front glass are highly recommended.” To a certain extent the industry is responding to calls from NAG, which is proactively encouraging jewellers to in turn respond to the increasing tenacity of today’s criminal. It was particularly encouraging to see NAG’s first Retail Security Conference at The BRE in Watford last October, which was a resounding success. Above all jewellers must focus on the time delay factor; how long they can keep criminals at bay until the emergency services arrive. Analyse the perceived threat Taking an integrated approach to ensure that your security glass works as part of the overall security system is crucial. In particular, consideration must be given to the window surround and rebates to ensure they are of a suitable standard to securely hold the glazing units during at attack. The same will apply for any glass display areas. Most importantly though careful thought must be given to the perceived level of

threat. As the Met reports: “the better the glass the longer it takes the offenders to access items.” As the Met adds, tested in accordance with European Standard BS EN 356:2000 (glass in building, security glazing, testing and classification of resistance against manual attack) EN 356 offers varying levels of security against manual attack. However, by far the most comprehensive is EN356 P7B and P8B. Standard 1:

BS EN356 P5A provides protection against attacks 3x3 in a triangle.

Standard 2:

BS EN 356 P6B provides protection against 31-50 blows from a sledge hammer or axe.

Standard 3:

BS EN 356 P7B provides protection against 51-70 blows from a sledge hammer or axe

Source: The Metropolitan Police report in its document on ‘Jewellers Personal Safety and Security Guide for Robbery’ 2011-12, Pg 14 Of course there will be premises requiring higher levels of security against intruder attack. This was shown at the NAG’s Conference where LPS 1270 was demonstrated, a standard recently introduced by BRE’s Loss Prevention Certificate Board (LPCB). The standard aids specifiers determining whether a security glazing unit’s intruder resistance is commensurate with security standard LPS 1175 used for jeweller’s doors, shutters, grilles and other related facade systems. LPS 1270 confirms the glazing’s


Security |

THE crime prevention initiative to get involved with... Brought to you by the N.A.G. and T.H. March SaferGems is a major initiative against crime in the jewellery, antiques and fine art trades The SaferGems team has links to all the UK police forces The team co-ordinate data from the trade on incidents and suspicious activities and send alerts to members of the NAG, BJA and TH March SaferGems ultimately helps the police to identify and convict criminals

get involved... www.safergems.org.uk 0845 272 7802

T 020 7613 4445 E nag@jewellers-online.org W www.jewellers-online.org

resistance to the creation of three different sized holes. These represent varying risks ranging from small slots enabling criminals to access panic hardware to large holes through which jewellery may be stolen when on display, or even complete access in which an intruder may climb through. Distraction Although frequently regarded as an aesthetic property, for those looking for the highest level of security, switchable privacy glass offers a clever way of masking vulnerable areas by depriving the potential assailant of any view of the intended target. Most importantly though, it is now entirely possible for privacy glass to be combined with a broad range of security glass products, including EN356 and LPS1270 rated glass. Certification Almost any glass manufacturer can provide ‘self-assessed’ assurances up until 1st July 2013 when compulsory CE marking will come into place. Until that happens, apply caution. Any product that is ‘self-assured’

can quickly reduce traceability and may result in products being installed that are ineffective against a perceived threat. Proof of certification is key; in much the same way as a customer would expect a Certificate of Authentication with their purchase. It is advisable to opt for a supplier that is already conversant with Third Party approved products and CE marking in line with the impending regulations.

Summary It can be a daunting prospect as a jeweller deciding which type of security glass to opt for; there is a broad range of options available and not all are applicable to every location. However, there are useful impartial third-party resources you can tap into. For example, The Met’s latest guidance can be found at: www.met.police.uk/crimeprevention/docs/ jewellers_personal_safety.pdf

Switchable privacy glass can be used to deny robbers their view of their potential haul.

The Voice of the Industry 53


| Security

Here’s to a safe New Year!

Michael Hoare emphasises the need for vigilance and the value of intuition when it comes to beating criminals at their own game. embers studying the December issue of the SaferGems Bulletin will notice that robbery, smash and grab and domestic burglary feature among the incidents reported, with a number of suspicious incidents thrown in for good measure. Sledgehammers crop up with monotonous regularity, but thankfully recourse to firearms is relatively rare – and long may that remain the case – but one Scottish incident did feature a sword! Reading that summary you might doubt the possibility of having a safe new year! But my purpose in mentioning these incidents is not to scare you but to alert readers to the unusual and downright bizarre things that criminals get up to. After all, forewarned is forearmed, or so they say. And, after all, one of the fundamentals of SaferGems is to encourage vigilance. Therefore our mission for 2013 is to encourage you to report all suspicious incidents and behaviour, as well as criminal activity. That way we can help prevent crime and help the police build evidence against offenders. When you’ve worked in a shop for long enough you develop a kind of sixth sense that tells you when things aren’t right, or a person is acting suspiciously. It is so often the case that, after an incident has taken place, a member of staff will say “I had a funny feeling about those people when they came in last week”, and sure enough, after a trawl through the CCTV footage, there they are casing the premises a week earlier. An incident in Chesterfield, reported in the same bulletin, is a great example of staff acting on this ‘sixth sense’. Nothing out of the ordinary, you might think, but one Wednesday in December two women of Eastern European origin entered a member’s store and asked to view a gold necklace.

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54 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

When staff refused to produce the item, they asked to look at, and purchase, a silver bracelet. When informed by staff that the item would have to be ordered in, they lost interest and left the store. Now these ladies may just be avid jewellery buyers, but it is believed that the same women have previously visited stores in Wroxham, Norfolk and Eccleshall, Staffordshire. Coincidence? It may be a suspicious car that keeps cruising past; individuals ‘browsing’ with no obvious intent to buy; or those wearing strange or inappropriate clothing or headgear that spark interest. Consider for example the two incidents of alleged ‘cross dressing’ offenders involved in violent East London incidents. Or perhaps you or your staff have been followed home or felt under observation during security procedures like locking cabinets or doors. All may have some significance or feature in incidents already known to SaferGems. So, in addition to reporting to police, we would request you inform SaferGems either by telephone on 0845 272 7802, by email at: intel@safergems.org.uk, or via our website: www. safergems.org.uk Finally, here is yet another example of the benefits of SaferGems intelligence gathering. At Lincoln Crown Court on Thursday 20th December 2012, David Sydney Stephenson was sentenced to five years and three months imprisonment for seven jewellery thefts that he had committed around the UK. His haul had netted him just short of half a million pounds at retail values. What lies behind this simple news item is a story of vigilance and attention to detail, not just on the part of SaferGems analysts, but also on the part of an eagle-eyed jeweller. The saga began on 11th September 2012 when Lincolnshire Police received a report

of the theft of a gold and diamond necklace valued at £20,000 from a store in Lincoln, and Stephenson’s luck began to run out. Posing as a customer he had entered the store asking to look at rings on the lower shelves of the window display. Having selected the necklace and taken it, along with his wallet, to the counter to pay he declared that he needed to speak to his wife outside, and promptly left the shop. His suspicions aroused, the sales assistant consulted his manager who checked the CCTV and confirmed their worst fears. The necklace had gone! Unfortunately for Stephenson, the investigating officer sent the CCTV images to SaferGems, who not only identified him as a suspect in a series of similar offences around the UK, but also disseminated the images throughout the national network. With pictures of the suspect in at least five other locations, including Beverley, Beeston, Bicester, Blackpool, and Chichester, identification soon followed, and on 13th October Stephenson was spotted by a SaferGems member at a store in the Jewellery Quarter, Birmingham. A quick phone call to the police led to his arrest and the discovery of three fake diamond rings in his pocket thought likely to have been used in a distraction theft. The NAG and SaferGems wish all members a happy, profitable and above all safe 2013

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The Voice of the Industry 55


| The Jewellery Show Preview

Nomination

New and improved product areas, first-time exhibitors, new launches and latest collections revealed – this year’s Jewellery Show promises to be bigger and better than ever.

t’s just days away now! The Jewellery Show, at the NEC Birmingham on 3rd-7th February 2013, will bring together all of the leading names in the jewellery and watch sectors, from leading young designers to manufacturers of fine jewellery. Over 21,000 visitors from more than 70 countries look set to attend this most glamorous of events for jewellery buyers, where, across the two halls, they will be able to visit top UK and international brands launching new designs and collections of precious jewellery, platinum, gold, palladium, loose diamonds and coloured stones. In fact this year there will be a brand new dedicated ‘Loose Gems’ area with exhibitors including Marcia Lanyon, Starborn Creations, Rohm, CHQ and MW Edelstein. Visitors will also discover an impressive selection of new ranges from renowned jewellery brands – both modern and classic designs in silver – as well as jewellery accessories. While the Time area – sponsored by Bering – will feature brands such as Storm, the Condor Group, Sellmoor and Lambretta watches… as well as Bering Time of course!

I

56 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

Very importantly, this year’s Jewellery Show will see a doubling in size of the new ‘Design Quarter’ – a destination area for buyers looking to source inspirational and one-off collections from top designer makers and brands. Fantastic designers to the show for the first time at the 2013 event include Alex Monroe, Laura Gravestock, Cabinet Studios and Danila Tarcinale. There are also several new European designers who are showing in the UK for the first time, including Eva Schreuder and Anja K Designs. The Houlden Group is again supporting the Design Quarter and has found its new ‘Gems’ to compete for the Designs of Excellence Award for 2013. The chosen designer will be selected from: Alex Monroe, Alexis Dove, Anja K Design, Arabel Lebrusan, Babette Wasserman, Button & Co, Catherine Budd, Erica Sharpe, Laura Gravestock, Rachel Galley Jewellery Design and Zelia Horsley Jewellery. The panel will also select outstanding pieces of jewellery from the winner and the other designers’ collections to form a travelling collection which will tour Houlden members’ retail stores throughout the UK and Ireland during 2013.

The show will also feature special runway presentations each day in the Catwalk Café – showcasing the latest trends and buying ideas in association with Adorn Insight. The Catwalk Café will also host a full seminar programme providing practical and essential advice to retailers on how to run successful jewellery businesses. Among the key speakers will be Michael Allchin of The Birmingham Assay Office, Helen Dimmick of Green + Benz, designer Dinny Hall and Michael Hoare (NAG) and Neil McFarlane (TH March) of SaferGems.

…a massive selection of new ranges from renowned jewellery brands – both modern and classic designs in silver – as well as jewellery accessories. The winners of The Houlden Group’s Designer of Excellence Award and the CMJ’s Best New Collection Award, representing just some of the outstanding new talent to be found at the show will be presented at the Catwalk Café. As will the winners of the BJA’s 2013 Jewellery Show Award. The silver jewellery company, Lucy Q and the fashion jewellery supplier Pautinka are the joint winners of this annual design competition organised in conjunction with The Jewellery Show. This year’s competition aimed to uncover the best of the best in chokers and chunky neckwear.


The Jewellery Show Preview |

The Jewellery Show highlights There will be countless new launches and special events taking place over the course of the Show, but here are a few that we should draw your attention to. Ti Sento will be introducing Portofino, a collection inspired by the fashionable Italian resort in particular and La Dolce Vita in general. Fresh and surprising designs include pieces that combine rose and yellow gold plated details, with a wide selection of mix and match possibilities. There’s jewellery that reflects the colours of the port’s bay and the bright houses, while another line – Champagne – provides a sense of luxury, such as bracelets set with hundreds of pave stones. Statement pieces are a feature of the jet Set range, with strong greens and pinks being the key colours. (17 W30) White Pine Trading, one of the largest global recycled diamond companies, will be offering visitors who have accumulated diamonds they are looking to sell, the chance to discover the sales channels available to them, the factors that affect pricing and how to achieve maximum profits when selling. White Pine, which was founded in the USA in 2010, and now has offices in Birmingham and Barcelona, will be handing out a new, free, pocket-size booklet it has produced especially for the show. How to Maximise

Weston Beamor

the Value of your Recycled Diamonds deals with many different aspects of this growing international trade. “The leaflet looks at how best to remove stones from unwanted jewellery to avoid damaging them; the impact that size, shape and colour have on recycled values and explains just how easy and profitable it can be to begin to recycle diamonds of any size and quality. It also elucidates the various sales channels available and makes clear which one is applicable to each visitor’s particular business,” says Tim Philips, European Director for White Pine. The White Pine Team, which includes highly qualified diamondgrading specialists, will be available throughout TJS to discuss visitors’ own personal diamond recycling requirements. (17 W39) Weston Beamor the casting house, rapid prototyping and bespoke jewellery making company will be giving away cute, threedimensional resin chimpanzees to those who visit its stand. However if you want to own one there are conditions attached – you must be prepared not only to ‘like’ WB on the company’s newly created Facebook page, but must also take a photograph of your new simian friend and upload to the Weston Beamor Facebook page.

Elements Gold by Gecko

A special folder will house pictures of the chimps so that people can vote for their favourite and the competition will run until September, 2013 when the winners will be announced at IJL. The winner will receive a Samsung Galaxy Camera and the runner-up a pair of sterling silver chimp cufflinks. The resin chimps were created using WB’s very latest high-tech equipment including a 3D scanner which will be making its first appearance on the stand. Having scanned an original and much larger chimp, the scan was then turned into a CAD file and manipulated in the software before being turned into perfect, but smaller replicas. (17 P44/Q45) Brown & Newirth will be unveiling its exclusive alloyed pink gold collection of wedding and engagement rings – aptly called Pink Champagne. These new diamondset wedding rings are complemented by a beautifully romantic matching engagement ring collection, with white diamonds hand-set into Pink Champagne gold. Visitors to the show will be the very first in the UK to see this innovative new collection. Other new ring collections to be launched will be shaped diamond-set wedding and eternity bands in a variety of carat weights. For men, there will be a range of new masculine hand-textured finished wedding bands in a variety of different profiles. (17 R28/S29) Italian composable jewellery company Nomination will be using The Jewellery Show as a platform to launch MyBonBons, a major new collection for the brand.

The Voice of the Industry 57




The Jewellery Show Preview | It combines colourful leather bracelets with necklaces, earrings and rings featuring the brands signature letters and symbols in 18ct gold. Nomination will also be revealing several new lines including Allegra, a colourful and delicate collection with rose gold; new season colours for the YouCool collection and new Vintage Edition links which bring a fresh new look to the iconic composable bracelet. (18 K14) Alexis Dove celebrates sunshine and the colours of the Greek islands in her new Helios jewellery collection to be unveiled at the show. In ancient Greek mythology, Helios is the god of the sun and this new collection features hammered golden vermeil discs set into pendants and cascading earrings and is inspired by the sun and the colours of a summery aquamarine sea. (18 DQ51) By way of something a little different, innovative design brand Flash Jordan will be doing live art on their stand during the show. They are introducing their new diffusion range of Britton Bespoke cufflinks in collaboration with Subism street and graffiti artists. They will have four artists creating the art, which will be turned into cufflink designs. Visitors have the chance to win the first pair of cufflinks made. The winners will be announced on the catwalk at the end of each day. (18 DQ15)

First timers at the show As always The Jewellery Show is an opportunity to discover new brands, designers and launches and this year will be like every other is this respect with a number of firsttimers exhibiting. For instance, a collective of up-and-coming jewellers from Birmingham will launch their debut collections to visitors at this year’s show. The 12 designer makers on this year’s Design Space scheme will Ti Sento

Jessica Nam

exhibit as part of the Design Quarter at the The Jewellery Show. Attendance at the fair is a key part of the business support offered to designer makers on the scheme, which is funded by Birmingham City Council and the European Regional Development Fund. Kerry O’Connor, a former Design Space graduate who now mentors participants, said: “The Jewellery Show is one of the biggest events in the jewellery and giftware calendar and offers a great opportunity for the Design Space exhibitors to showcase their talents and start building relationships with crucial trade buyers. Jessica Nam, one of the Design Space participants said: “Launching our collections to buyers at The Jewellery Show is a fantastic opportunity and we’re all really excited at the prospect. Running a pop-up shop in Birmingham’s Great Western Arcade in the run up to Christmas gave us an invaluable opportunity to start building relationships with customers and learn more about what works commercially. Since then, we’ve been adapting and building on our collections. The 12 designer makers launching their collections are Tom Asquith, Elizabeth Boyd, Karen Collis, Lana Crabb, Joanna Fronczak, Chloe Hurn, Steve Kukla, Amy Logan, Sarah Manterfield, Jessica Nam, Amanda Trimmer and Rosie White. (18, DQ62) Unique Jewelry will be adding to its evergrowing portfolio of collections the watch brand, Lotus which is well known worldwide for combining aesthetics and functionality. Elegant yet young, exclusive and on trend,

it speaks to a modern audience with a desire for something special. The latest collection, inspired by motorcycling, has a sporty style with an edge. Brand ambassador Marc Marquez was 2012 World Champion at the Moto2 and has also inspired a limited edition watch to add to the already successful Marc Marquez collection. Active, dynamic and technologically innovative are all words that equally describe the collection and Marc’s motorcycle team. (17 N14/P15) Meanwhile, jewellery technology company Gemvision will be hailing the UK launch of its strategic partner and premier global jewellery manufacturer Stuller. Stuller’s arrival in the UK consolidates the Gemvision and Stuller partnership, bringing technology and fulfilment capabilities to the independent jewellery industry. As a DTC Sightholder Stuller is the largest supplier of coloured gemstones in the USA. Its UK launch at the fair sees it showcasing its global expertise in tools, coloured stones, precious metals and contemporary metal wedding bands. In particular, Stuller’s UK account holders will have exclusive access to an online retail showcase feature – individual images of gemstones, grading reports and the ability allow retail customers to select their own stones, with profit margins pre-selected in advance by the retailer. As precious metal suppliers, Stuller will also be presenting ‘Sterlium Plus’ to UK manufacturers, a tarnish resistant, sterling silver alloy that retains its bright white colour with the strength of 14ct, making it ideal for gem setting. (17 P28/Q29)

The Voice of the Industry 59




| The Jewellery Show Preview

Jewellery Show 2013 Lookbook

Catherine Budd



Catherine Budd’s 18ct white gold and diamond ‘Crown Collection’ will be one of her key collections at the Jewellery Show. Inspired by the vintage tiara it was created to mark the celebration of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. The collection features an engagement ring, a choice of wedding rings and an eternity ring, which fit together perfectly. Also on show will be Catherine’s other collections – Clover and Lumière. Stand 18DQ53

Corona



Sponsor of the Tour de France for 20 years and last year’s sponsor of the Tour of Britain, Festina offers an affordable extensive range of watches that encompasses sport chronos as well as fashionable models. With the exception of the titanium collection, all styles are in stainless steel and all use Miyota movements. Stand 17 N14/P15

Corona will be presenting a fabulous range of diamond set jewellery using Canadian Certified Gold. The brands are Maple Leaf Diamonds and I AM Canadian, traceable to source diamonds. Stand 17 R04/S05

Goldmajor

Missoma

Among the new pieces being shown by amber specialist Goldmajor is this pendant set against a gold-plated disc backdrop. Also featuring a gold plated disc is a teardropshaped pendant and earring set with a centred freshwater pearl, as well as distinctive heart-shaped cherry amber pendant. Stand 18 M14/N15 

Following the popularity of the Maiya gold vermeil range, this season Missoma will introduce Maiya Silver pieces, including earrings, rings and pendants featuring coloured stones. In addition, a complete departure for the brand comes in the form of a fashion jewellery line using nappa, metallic and fake reptile skin leathers, in a range of strong colours and featuring Swarovski crystals. Stand 17 R30/S31

60 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013





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| The Jewellery Show Preview

Troll Beads



Unique Mens



A new designer is introduced this year: bead maker Scott Bouwens from the US has created six very different pieces for the Rocky Beach kit, inspired by nature and earth’s minerals. A colourful contrast is added with Happy Summer of bright beach shades including pink, strawberry, blue and coral, while on an ocean theme there are also dolphins, seahorses, sea urchins and mermaids. Stand 18 L44/M45

The new men’s collection uses braided leather in combination with stainless steel elements and special clasps to create a masculine and fashionable look. Also new this season is a range of cufflinks which also have a young urban young feel. Stand 17 N14/P15



The silver and diamond brand is continuing its successful theme of romantic heart styles with 25 new designs this season. These have also been inspired by the natural world (flowers, butterflies and dragonflies) as well as stars and moons – which will all be launched at the show. Each piece comes with a plush satin pouch, polishing cloth, ribbon-tied gift box and a gift bag. Stand 18 F18



PH Wedding Rings

Lily & Lotty

New designs in all metals promise to create excitement on PH’s stand at the show, with the introduction of Palladium 500, Argentium Silver and fashion-led titanium rings. Styles featuring a mix of metals as well as others with floral motifs also feature in the new collections, which can be seen on the company’s new, fully interactive website. Stand 17 Q12

Hot Diamonds



Shooting Stars, Micro Letters, Extravagance and Angel are among the new collections being launched by Hot Diamonds for 2013. The latter two are the key hero statement lines, with strong, design-led pieces, such as Angel Heart which features a magma red crystal heart embraced by sterling silver angel wings – perfect for Valentine’s Day. Stand 18 L40/M41

62 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013




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The Jewellery Show Preview |

Gemma J



Silver jewellery brand Gemma J is introducing its new Pebbled Bracelet collection at the show. In both silver and gold vermeil, the styles will be available in seven colours and children’s sizes will be in black, pink, purple and navy. Also in the collectible range are rings and earrings. Stand 18 G14

Lucy Q



Mirri Damer

First time exhibitor Mirri Damer will showcase her new Star range of rings, pendants and earrings which has been designed and created in silver and gold set with the new innovative ‘lotus’ cut diamond. She will also be revealing her highly collectable, stackable ‘Bud’ rings with new additions being launched at the show. Inspired by her surroundings, Mirri Damer’s jewellery is hand crafted in her studio in Cornwall. Stand 18 DQ 52

Organic shapes have always provided a source of inspiration for designer Lucy Q and this season Clouds have joined earlier Drips of Water, Splats and Insects. In sterling silver, some stand alone while others feature delicate drops of rain. Also new is a collection inspired by her childhood obsession with Cleopatra – including a spinning ring etched with good-fortune hieroglyphics. Stand 18 DQ 38

Dower & Hall

Budhha to Buddha



Renowned for its sterling silver bracelets – aimed at both men and women – there is an emphasis on combining the precious metal with leather, for an ever-expanding line of jewellery styles. Rings, earrings, necklaces as well as bracelets are all individually hand-crafted by artisans on Bali. Stand 18 L44/M45

64 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013





The free-spirited Nomad collection follows the natural shapes and patterns that are found all over the earth, from washed-up pebbles to forms seen in an arid desert. In yellow or rose gold, as well as silver the soft, simple jewellery includes necklaces, bracelets and earrings. All things feathered are also on-trend this season and Dower & Hall is featuring hand-carved feathers as the focus of another collection. Stand 18 F30


The Jewellery Show Preview | 

Royal London (Condor Group)

Royal London has launched a range of automatic wrist watches for gentlemen, which offer precision Miyota automatic movements at value price-points. With seven individual designs and twenty eight stainless steel models, some with gold plating, watches in the range include the day and date, incorporating skeleton movements. A multi-function power reserve model will also be added to the range following this initial launch. Stand 18 J30/K31

Fiorelli by Gecko



Inspired by the international fashion catwalks, Fiorelli is embracing colour in a big way for Spring/Summer 2013. Strong, saturated tones, bordering on fluorescent, are mixed with a more earthy palette, in particular for bracelets and bangles using geometric shapes, animal skin looks and gold highlights. Stand 18 K30/L31

Newcomers to the show, Bouton will unveil a collection of sterling silver jewellery set with cubic zirconia crystals that have been created using micro pavé techniques. Included in the line are celebratory and stacker rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets, charms, cufflinks and statement necklaces. Stand 18 L61



Carat

Art Deco, Pavé and Power Pearls are three of the more glamorous, glittering collections being shown by Carat – the latter, featuring faux pearls (a first for the brand) and the trademark man-made diamond-colour gemstones. Also new will be the Chelsea Bracelet collection which offers a younger, edgier look in sterling silver with platinum vermeil and 18ct yellow gold vermeil, featuring charms of stars, hearts, lips, guns, rockets and flip flops. Stand 18 J28/K29



Bouton

Chavin



Now in its second year of creating ‘style with a conscience’, Chavin – which has an official affiliation with the charity SOS Children – is launching a line of micro-stacking chain bracelets and stacking necklaces. The original Chavin jaguar symbol is still a key feature, along with flower, star and circular forms crafted from sterling silver and rose gold vermeil with blue sapphires, amethyst, orange sapphires and rubies. Stand 18 DQ 01

The Voice of the Industry 65




| The Jewellery Show Preview

Rachel Galley



Created using her signature lattice texture, Rachel Galley has introduced a new Love Heart collection in sterling silver. The pieces include single and linked double hearts for rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets. Stand 18 DQ 41

Giorgio Martello Amore

Pomegranate



Pomegranate will be expanding its range of rock crystal and diamond slice earrings, necklaces, bangles and rings. The combination of sparkle and delicate wirework settings proved popular in 2012, and more wearable, everyday pieces will be in the collection, as well as a broader range of elegantly proportioned statement styles. Stand 18 F54

This trend-led collection combines colourful leather with stainless steel clasps, some of which are also gold plated and have different charms such as fresh water pearl drops or crystal balls to give them an even more elegant look. Stand 17 N14/P15

66 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

Amore’s branded Argento Silver collection is made up of modern designs set with coloured stones and CZs and is all rhodium plated. This complements the more extensive Oro Gold collection which is created as a bespoke order in either 9ct or 18ct white or yellow gold and to the customer’s own specified stone colour combinations. Stand: 18 C12

The rhodium plated sterling silver collection featuring colourful cubic zirconia stones derives inspiration from Italian fashion trends, lifestyle and architecture. Glamorous and vibrant, it is accompanied by strong POS material in the form of displays, packaging and leaflets. Stand 17 N14/P15

Pandora 

UniqueJewelry







Cherry blossom, ‘love and romance’ and fairytales are the key themes of the new and very feminine collection from Pandora. In 18 carat gold and sterling silver, the pieces are set with pavé stones as well as pastel enamel and glass – from heart and bouquets, to frogs, castles and crowns. Stand 18 M70/P17




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The Voice of the Industry 67


Jessica Flinn



| The Jewellery Show Preview Sheffield-based designer Flinn prides herself on keeping her business local and this starts with the choice of Sheffield stainless steel for her jewellery – which she launched in September last year. In contrast to the metal are lace details on her pieces, which for 2013 include pastel tones. Also new this season is a children’s line – Little Flinn and for the first 25 buyers who view the collection at the show there will be a ‘VIP gift’! Stand 18 DQ 70

Bold statement pieces as well as pretty, delicate jewellery form the basis of Azuni’s new hand-crafted, 24ct gold-plated collection. Beaded tribal chokers, disc earrings, sculptured cuffs, single coloured stone pendants, gemstone drop earrings (as seen here) and stacking rings are just some of the strong, fashionable looks on offer. Stand 18 G67

Martick



Domino





Azuni

Looking ahead to Valentine’s Day gift ideas, these pieces follow on from Martick’s natureinspired theme of 2012. The key trend revolves around trees and woodland, in particular Ygggdrasil – the tree of life. All are delicately executed in sterling silver. Stand 18 D30/E31

Wedding bands are the big story for Domino this year, with over 40 new designs being launched at the show. With a wide choice of profiles, in a variety of widths and weights, it now offers its core wedding bands in a choice of light, medium and heavy weight profiles. Also new to its classic range of profiles is a new collection of bi-colour wedding bands. Offering a unique twist to the traditional, plain profile, these bands are available in 18ct white with a subtle layer of 18ct yellow or rose gold inside the band. Stand 17 P44/Q45

Deakin & Francis



As well as these new silver and 18ct gold cufflinks set with silver (as part of an extensive new collection), Deakin & Francis will be revealing its revamped website with an array of innovative features designed to make the buying experience as pain-free and simple as possible for retailers. There is also the option to place a ‘quick order’ for buyers who know what they want to order before they visit the site, as well as a ‘wish-list’ feature. Stand 17 T04

68 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013


The Jewellery Show Preview | 

Babette Wasserman

It might be delicate, but Babette Wasserman’s new Poison necklace has its more sinister edge, with a small skull cladding the necklace chain that holds the opening capsule pendant. Also new in the collection is the Cloud Ring, to complement necklaces, hoops and stud earrings. All come in silver, gold and pink gold, with Swarovski crystal adornment. Stand 18 DQ11

Gemex



Taking inspiration from its range of eternity rings and wedding bands, Gemex has created an exciting new collection of finished and semi-set engagement rings called Cherish. All have a flush fit profile, allowing them to sit snuggly with any wedding or eternity band in the line. Stand 17 S04/T05



Charlotte Lowe

First time exhibitor Charlotte whose handcrafted, photo-etched pieces that evoke shared memories and travel, have been joined by a range of sea shell jewellery and framed hearts. For each shell sold, 15 per cent is donated to the RNLI, while the same percentage goes to the British Heart Foundation from sales of the ‘Hearts of Gold’ collection. Stand 18 DQ 27

Tresor Paris



Watches are a key element of the Tresor Paris story and the new ISL Watch Collection comes in a range of 13 colours and each model set with a diamond at the 12 o’clock position. Each watch is waterproof up to 100 meters and features a faceted glass face to replicate the sparkle of a diamond and an interchangeable silicone strap. Stand 17 U04/V05

Kleshna



Staying true to the glam design ethos of Kleshna Jewellery is this Hepburn Necklace – a hero piece for the spring/summer collection and a celebration of the iconic silver screen glamour of the 1950s. The classic look has a contemporary edge with sleek glass pearls interspersed with gold bead-laden stems, tipped with glass pearls and framed by crystal encrusted vintage roundels. Stand 18 G41

The Voice of the Industry 69




| The Jewellery Show Preview

Mounir



Mounir is launching its new Sunflower Collection to complement existing collections of Rose Buds, Cascading Flowers, Daises and Pansies. Inspiration is taken from the designer’s love of favourite flowers, their colour, shape and specific look. The collection is featured in sterling silver and gold plated with large round cut faceted, translucent gemstones. Stand 18 DQ 02

Clogau’s new Fairytale campaign is inspired by the storytelling theme that inspires every piece of Clogau jewellery. The campaign brings together the unique elements that set Clogau apart from all other jewellery brands – the royal connection and the rarity of Welsh gold. There will be two new collections launched at this year’s show. Stand 17 R28

Arabel Lebrusan



A combined love of movements such as Art Nouveau and Bauhaus and natural, organic forms has informed the 2013 collection from Rogers & Rogers. In particular colours taken from the palette of Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s early water colours have provided calming inspiration for the stoneset jewellery. Stand 18 E15



A fresh new look is given to one of Arabel’s classic designs – the filigree friendship bracelet. Each one is adorned with either a fairtrade sapphire, garnet or smoky quartz and have been created in plated 18ct gold and rose gold as well as sterling silver. Stand 18 DQ 40

PJ Watson

These yellow gold earrings set with rubies and diamonds (together with a matching pendant) are based on a previous top selling design. Renowned for their ability to source rare stones at affordable prices, PJ Watson will also be showing a natural pink diamond, surrounded by a single row of G colour, VS pear shaped diamonds. Stand 17 R25

70 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013





Rogers & Rogers

Clogau




A

D

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All that glisters ... After many successful years providing a valuable service without fanfare Allied Gold will be revealing its new and existing products and services at The Jewellery Show next month. t’s probably true to say that every industry has its unsung heroes and the jewellery business is no exception. One particularly good example is Allied Gold, which has been the hidden creator and manufacturer behind many of the leading wedding ring ranges sold across the UK for the past 30 years. The company has concentrated on ways to improve efficiency in its production processes by automating many of the manufacturing procedures – when others have simply looked to outsource rather than invest. This strong foundation of in-house investment and technical innovation has ensured that Allied Gold offers its diverse customer base a speedy and reliable chain of supply at affordable prices, while still maintaining product quality. Building on this strong foundation the company has started to offer its client base an ever-increasing range of services and products, all backed by a UK team of designers, craftsmen and production processes; from design to CAD and through to finished product Allied offer stampings, castings and several other production services.

I

No longer simply supplying wedding rings blanks, the company’s portfolio is expanding to meet the changing demands of both retailers and consumers.

Allied has taken on exclusive UK distribution rights for Argentium silver and is now broadening the offering from just raw material to components and a dedicated solder paste through to finished wedding bands. Argentium is brighter and whiter than traditional 925 sterling silver and offers consumers a far greater resistance to tarnishing than standard silver, making it an ideal choice for today’s busy retailer and consumers’ lifestyles. This February the company will be making its first-ever exhibition appearance at The Jewellery Show at the NEC, Birmingham, and will be showcasing some of these new product lines and materials. Old and new customers are invited to visit the team and discuss their changing requirements.

Also being showcased at The Jewellery Show will be the internationally acclaimed stone Moissanite, a patented jewel with unrivalled fire and brilliance for which Allied will now be acting as exclusive UK distributor. The company is delighted to be taking on this distributorship and working with Charles and Colvard to develop the brand in the UK market. Initially Allied will be offering loose stones but this will be extended into exciting ranges in the coming month. Also being introduced at the fair will be a small collection of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold wedding rings in response to growing consumer interest in Fair Trade materials. Visit Allied at The Jewellery Show (Hall 17 Stand Q58) to discuss what they can do for your business. You can also visit their website at: www.alliedgoldltd.com

Allied Gold


| Feature

Posh Pawn As increasing numbers of jewellers add pawnbroking to their long list of customer services, this first in a series of features dispels some of the myths surrounding this most ancient of trades. lame Dickens… or Defoe… or even Dostoevsky if you like, but there’s no doubt that the business of pawnbroking has suffered from its fair share of bad press over the years. A memorable line in Moll Flanders has a pawnbroker in a roll-call that includes such ne’er-do-wells as ‘a childtaker, receiver of thieves, whore and bawd’ – which is surely a little harsh, even for those lawless times. At best pawnbroking was regarded back then as a rather disreputable trade. Today such negative connotations are about as outmoded and far from reality as it’s possible to be. So much so in fact that the last few years have witnessed increasing numbers of jewellers integrating pawnbroking into their businesses and the perception of this service is shifting from negative to positive.

B

“This is a lucrative business and we often laugh at the snobbery sometimes shown to us by old ‘county style’ jewellers who turn their noses up at the thought of it. And that’s because service – a very upmarket one at that – is what it is all about. “These days pawnbroking occupies an important place in the financial services sector, having largely shaken off its somewhat down-at-heel ‘blue collar’ image,” agrees NAG CEO Michael Hoare. “With banks putting short term business loans and overdrafts out of reach, or tying them up in red tape, more business people are turning to pawnbroking to bridge cash flow needs. They might pledge a watch collection to cover an unexpected tax demand, or to meet their wage bill until their invoices get paid at the end of the month; pawnbroking joins the ranks of crowd finance and peer-to-peer

72 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

lending in the pantheon of new era finance without a bank in sight.” Hayward Milton, director of Miltons pawnbroking shops in Chester, Liverpool and Wirral and who sits on the council of the National Pawnbrokers Association, has witnessed a dramatic increase in the number of pawnbrokers in recent years. “But most of those are expansions of existing businesses or refugees from the troubled world of cheque cashing,” he explains. “There are a number of entirely new pawnbrokers starting up, and yes, there are some existing jewellers who are seeing the attractions of pawnbroking and trying it. It amazes me that so few have done it before. “This is a lucrative business, increasingly so as one offers a better pawnbroking service, and we often laugh at the snobbery sometimes shown to us by old ‘county style’ jewellers who turn their noses up at the thought of it. Profits or pride – which keeps a business going? As it happens, we make a profit and take great pride in doing an extremely professional job,” he adds. As well they should. Miltons’ stores enjoy some impressive high street sites – the shop in the middle of Chester, next to the famous clock, Boodles and the five star

‘Hard times’ or ‘At the pawnbroker’s’ Thomas Reynolds Lamont, 1859

Grosvenor Hotel, especially raises its profile. “Our secondhand windows there are like no others I have ever seen; a sea of top end pieces from Rolex, Cartier, Boodles, Tiffany, Bulgari, Chopard and the like,” explains Milton. Evidence that the market is changing might be anecdotal currently, but certainly Bransom Retail Systems has seen a substantial growth in demand for its pawnbroking system – including an increase in upmarket trading. “Jewellers should be at the forefront of this,” says MD Chris Garland. “Middle and high class people with quality jewellery, want to deal with upmarket staff in upmarket surroundings and when a client is looking to secure a loan against a cherished item of jewellery, they would prefer to deal with a professional that recognises the true value of such a piece. When it comes to providing realistic valuations of clients’ jewellery – and thus higher value loans – most retail jewellers are much more able to do so than the general pawnbroking chains.”

A few questions answered Q. A.

Q. A.

Q. A. Q. A.

What type of clientele will I attract? Pawnbroking is subject to market forces and marketing positioning, as with any other business. It is unlikely that anyone would go into a jewellers to pawn anything other than watches or jewellery. Will offering a pawnbroking service upset my current client base? Pawnbrokers have become the entrepreneur’s lender of choice and in doing so this has inadvertently broken down the taboos that recently surrounded this market sector. Will I need to employ extra staff? Probably not – most jewellers are not capitalising on the expertise already to hand. How much capital will I need? Pawnbroking has generally proven to be a ‘slow burn’ in terms of income and as it gains momentum it actually becomes self-funding. Therefore, while ‘big bucks’ might not materialise immediately, neither will substantial outlay be required upfront.


| Insurance Matters

INSURANCE

Q&A

In this first of a new occasional feature, Neil McFarlane, MD of chartered insurance brokers TH March, answers some frequently raised, jewellery trade-related insurance queries. How can I address the thorny issue of my customers being sent by their insurance companies to other jewellers whenever they make a claim for jewellery repairs or replacements? This is a problem for independent jewellers in particular because most insurers will have negotiated terms with ‘preferred suppliers’. In effect it means that the customer is given no choice over where to go for repairs or replacements when they make a personal jewellery insurance claim. At THM we provide a simple insurance scheme – March Insurance Solutions (MIS) – which helps to ensure customers return to their own jeweller whenever possible when repairs or replacements are needed. This scheme can also earn jewellers commission. When a customer is referred to MIS and takes out a policy, the referring jeweller will earn commission. If the customer then makes an MIS insurance claim they will be sent back whenever possible to that jeweller. Claims

74 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

cheques are sent direct to the jeweller concerned, TH March doing all administration and providing promotional material. For smaller ticket items we also offer ‘March Guard’, a self-issue certificate scheme. For more details contact John Watson or Nicola Blagdon on: 01822 855 555. What is Business Interruption Cover? Imagine you can’t open for business as you’ve been flooded! Clearly your business insurance policy will cover flood damage to premises and stock (see question below). If you also have business interruption cover, which I believe to be vital, additional costs such as hiring temporary premises will be met. This means you’ll be able to continue trading during the subsequent repair and clean-up period enabling you to maintain cash flow and retain customers. Such cover will also replace any loss of profit sustained during the period that your trading is interrupted by an insured risk such as flood.

Business interruption cover can save your business. It is a fact that firms who don’t have such cover often cease trading within 12 months of a major incident. Many people who have been flooded want to know if their premiums will automatically go up. The answer to this isn’t simple. However, if your business is located in an area that is not normally at risk and you have simply fallen foul of the unusual weather conditions this year: you may experience only a temporary increase in premiums. Each case is highly individual and this is where a good broker will be your most valuable asset because we will be acting on your behalf, fighting your corner to achieve the best possible outcome for you and your business. I am becoming increasingly worried about the threat of flooding. How best do I protect my business and income? Clearly there is a lot you can do beforehand if there is the threat of flooding: • Keep yourself informed by checking: www.environment-agency.gov.uk or via the local media • Move whatever you can safely and securely to upper floors or higher storage areas (stock, paperwork, electrical equipment etc.) • Take whatever preventative measures you can (sandbag areas of potential water ingress such as doors, drains etc.) • Have emergency numbers in a safe waterproof place where they can be easily reached. Include in this list your insurers, local authority, utility companies and other useful contact numbers If the worst does happen, whether or not you are prepared: • Contact your insurer as soon as possible. (Brokers to the NAG, TH March would take over handling the claim for you at this point) • Record the damage. Photographs will definitely help • Take reasonable action to prevent the damage from worsening once the flood has receded • Arrange temporary repairs where necessary • Don’t dispose of any damaged items unless they pose a danger to health • ALWAYS keep receipts for any work you have had to carry out www.thmarch.co.uk


Over 6,000 good reasons to target the key industry decision makers with The Jeweller As of the March issue The Jeweller magazine will

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| Feature

Brand Profile BOUTON As silver jewellery brands continue to grow in popularity, one new name is successfully bringing more than a touch of high-end glamour to this market. hen Adrian Buckley first launched Bouton last year, he naturally showed it to a few customers of his existing costume jewellery collections – high street fashion stores and prestigious travel retail businesses among them. They pointed out to him that in contrast to the Buckley London brand, Bouton was ‘so much like fine jewellery’ that it’s true place was very definitely in a jewellery shop. Which must have been music to his ears, as this was indeed the thinking behind the line’s creation. Bouton was conceived as a premium sterling silver brand, the pieces ‘beautifully executed’ and hand set with cubic zirconia crystals and micro pavé detailing. To the eye of the consumer (and to quite a few visitors to IJL last September, who passed

W

One of photographer Kristian Schuller’s fantasy photos for the brand

76 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

the Bouton stand), it appears for all the world to be gem set platinum jewellery. “The rhodium plated finish and the accuracy of the spacing speaks of such high quality that people assume that it’s fine jewellery,” says brand director Sam McDermid. “There is little competition of the type of product that we do in the market place and I believe ours has the edge on what there is right now,” says Buckley. “Silver is increasing in popularity [among jewellery retailers] and a classic, understated look is trending at the moment.” Classic and understated maybe, but also – it must be said – glamorous, glittering and with its own particular point of difference. French for ‘button’ (but you knew that already of course) Bouton uses the little fastener as

its source of inspiration. As an aside, the Guild of Button Makers was founded in Paris in the 13th Century (bet you didn’t know that) and Parisian chic is a key focus of the brand’s aspirational aims. “Our USP is the tiny micro pavé button that features on a number of our designs and we plan to make this an iconic symbol of Bouton,” explains Buckley. “The button is key to helping us to achieve and develop a brand,” adds McDermid. “There are a lot of jewellery companies out there doing silver ranges, but not so many ‘true’ brands that market themselves well. There are some who do it exceptionally well – Pandora is an absolute machine marketing-wise – but the woman in the street would be hard-pressed to mention five jewellery ‘names’. We’re very ambitious about developing the brand well,” she says. Hence the very great attention to detail – not just in the product itself, but in its tone of voice, which comes across through the creative campaign, the packaging and the display and point of sale material. Nothing has been left to chance. “We have developed very beautiful display equipment and it is a criteria – with very few exceptions – that we want our products to be merchandised in our own display tanks,” says Buckley. “This shows the product off to its best and will ensure the best sell-through of the brand. We will provide these free-ofcharge and want to work with our partners to create a branded environment within their locations.” Providing just the right mood is obviously critical when creating and positioning a new brand and Buckley has spared no resources when it comes to Bouton’s photography. Employing the skills of Romanian-born, Paris-based photographer Kristian Schuller has resulted in a set of extremely distinctive,


Feature | aspirational, fantasy shots that lend a suitably haute couture demeanour to the brand. Furthermore, the vision and style has been brought to life with a video which will be available for retailers to show as part of their window display (check out http://vimeo.com/39341175 for the full dreamlike, provocative effect). Feeling that ‘the world is awash with jewellery advertising that has pretty photography’, Buckley was determined to come up with something that would really differentiate his brand from the rest and ‘not fade into a glitzy middle-of the-road blur’. The packaging also aims to leave an impression. Boxes and bags in a very deep purple with silver foil lettering create a suitable feeling of luxury (along with the silvery-grey silk ribbons) and research tells the marketeers at Bouton that all shades of purple are popular with young girls, which hopefully augers well. Not that the young woman is Bouton’s key target customer. It’s more a question of attitude, with 18 to 80 year olds looking for ‘effortless style’ being the rather more broad market that Buckley and his team have in mind. The look of the jewellery, while definitely feminine and with a touch of decadent, old-school glamour, is not fashionable per se – so, by definition, it’s

A brief history of Buckley and Bouton • Yorkshire-born Adrian Buckley leaves school at 16 to join the family news agency business • At 20 he goes to work for Cadbury’s and then leaves to work for the gold and diamond jewellery company Abbeycrest. The fact that he had the ability to spot a winning product was confirmed by the chairman’s assertion that he had ‘tam’ – good taste • In 1989 he starts his own company, Buckley Jewellery, one of the UK’s most successful fashion jewellery businesses. Multi-award-winning, it is available in-flight with over 100 airlines and stocked at over 200 retail locations (including 60 international airports) worldwide • In 2001 Buckley Jewellery buys the high profile costume jewellery business Attwood & Sawyer (established 1956) and the authentic vintage label is re-launched in 2010. The ultra glamorous line is predominantly targeted at the Asian market • September 2012 sees the introduction of Bouton – largely inspired by Buckley’s knowledge of micro pavé manufacturing and design

not going to go out of fashion. However, McDermid and Christina Lenihan – who heads product development – are coaxing Buckley out of his glittering comfort zone with a new collection that will have a more casual, ‘everyday’ feel. “Our look is classic at the moment, but this will evolve – while remaining in keeping with the Bouton look,” explains McDermid. A new low-key direction notwithstanding, what is probably certain is that rings will remain the core product with the Bouton stable. “Rings account for about a third of our business,” says McDermid and this is

Giving something back Charitable work is important to Adrian Buckley. To date Buckley London has raised close to £2 million in aid of the Royal British Legion through the sale of the jewelled, gold plated Buckley Poppy. 2012 marks the third year of this donation, with total sales (rather than a percentage) going to the charity. Last year also saw Buckley set up the Adrian Buckley Charitable Trust, with the aim of helping those less fortunate than others. The first project – now well underway – is an orphanage in Uganda. More details at: www.abctrust.co.uk

probably helped by our great ring display unit which allows rings – that would normally be kept under glass – to be tried on, thanks to the elastic loop and wire cord they are attached to with chandelier crystals beneath the display.” The colour palette of the jewellery revolves around clear stones, alongside the shades of yellow and pink diamonds plus rubies and sapphires – to keep as close as possible to the colours of natural stones. In addition to the rings, pendants, earrings, necklaces, collars and bracelets, the collection includes stud earrings, cufflinks and a tennis bracelet featuring the Bouton buttons as a micro pavé centrepiece. Starting at £35 for a charm, retail prices rise to £495 for the most statementmaking, jewel-encrusted collar. Whatever the budget though, Buckley’s aim is to convey the sense of lasting craftsmanship that he has always strived for. “I am hoping that the Bouton wearer will be constantly reminded that she is wearing a timeless and precious piece of jewellery,” he says.

The Voice of the Industry 77


| Feature

Alternative business finance for retailers Where can hard-pressed retailers turn to when in need of funding? The NAG’s membership administrator Amy Oliver has researched some alternative lending schemes, and here’s what she’s unearthed… t hardly needs to be reiterated, but the current access to business finance from the banks here in the UK is woefully lacking. The Government’s ‘Funding for Lending’ scheme is at best crawling along at a snail’s pace, with banks still very unwilling to extend credit to even established SMEs.

I

Peer-to-Business Funding Peer-to-Business funding is still a relatively new activity in the financial sector, but there are already a few key players such as Zopa, Funding Circle and RateSetter. The concept is pretty simple: lots of small investors (individuals) pay in funds which are then loaned to businesses. It’s appealing to investors and borrowers alike for a number of reasons: • For Businesses: new funds are available other than from banks and, although the Peer-to-Peer (P2P) companies have stringent credit checks, they’re still more lenient than the banks. The amount that can be borrowed ranges from £1,000 to £500,000, and can be repaid over one to five years. The rates of APR are also often lower than those offered by more traditional lenders. • For investors: the minimum amount needed to invest is very low, often only £10 to £20, and the yields of interest are higher than if the money was simply put into a savings account. There are, of course, downsides. The industry isn’t yet properly regulated, though the Treasury and the Financial Conduct Authority are working towards a new regulatory framework according to the newly established P2P Finance Association. There’s also the matter of the terms of the loan, which can be difficult when there are

78 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

multiple lenders; large debts in particular may be ‘sold’ to a group of investors, in which case each part of the loan may have different terms (be sure to read ALL the small print!)

Invoice Financing Invoice financing has been around a while, and the basic principle is that when you need some capital, you can use invoices as assets to drum up cash from a lender. There are two means of doing this: • The lender gives you the amount due from your invoice. It is then up to you to chase the invoice and reconcile with the lender in a set amount of time • The lender gives you the amount due from the invoice. The lender then collects the invoice money from your client themselves (after warning them first of course) Invoice financing can be a great way of plugging a capital gap, especially for rapidly growing businesses. There are any number of lenders offering this service too, so more

chance of getting a deal you’re happy with. However, invoice financing is only a shortterm solution, and depending on the sizes of your invoices, may not be enough.

Community Finance This is the finance solution with a conscience! Community Development Finance Institutions (CDFIs) provide finance to businesses – specifically SMEs, start-ups and microbusinesses – to support the development of their community and local economy. There are a number of different CDFIs around the UK, and each will have different lending terms. The CDFIs offer low-interest, or even interest-free loans to borrowers in need. Funding starts at £50 and can go up to £1 million. The big downside is that there are currently only six CDFI regions in the country, so you’ll need to check the Association’s website – www.cdfa.org.uk – to see if there’s one in your area.

Angel Investors You may or may not be familiar with certain companies – such as Angel Capital Group – promoting ‘angel’ investors. These are simply high net worth people willing to fund businesses (usually start-ups, but not always) for a share in the business. There are, as with all of the tools in this article, pros and cons. • Pros: You can access finance if turned down by the bank and some even provide business advice • Cons: The criteria are quite strict as the investors are individuals or small groups who do not wish to take very high risks. There’s also the issue of handing over equity in your business to these angels, which may cause problems in the future All, none, or just one of these alternative financial vehicles may be of use to retailers struggling to gain much needed finance. Hopefully this feature has shone some light – however fleeting – on the issue. References • www.businesszone.co.uk/blogs/ marketinvoice/marketinvoice-blog/ 5-alternatives-traditional-bank-finance • tangled.co/2012/07/finance-for-smes/ • voices.yahoo.com/pros-cons-peerpeer-lending-borrowers-1032225.html • www.p2pfinanceassociation.org.uk • www.cdfa.org.uk


| Feature

Cut in...

Clerkenwell A forthcoming Hand Engravers Association project will create a new national archive of 20th Century hand engravers and their work, as project manager Griselda Bear explains.

Angus McFadyen

nder the banner Cut in Clerkenwell the EGA is assembling the history of hand engraving from 1900 to the present day. When we started out on the project in July last year we knew of only about 70 hand engravers. We had heard fascinating stories from some of our members about important commissions they had undertaken, their teachers and apprenticeships, but we felt sure that there was much more to be discovered. We wanted to move back in time and wider around the UK. Also we wanted to find out who had taught the present generation and where those people had learnt their skills at the start of the twentieth century. Hand engravers are largely unknown and unsung as their highly skilled and artistic work usually falls under the name of a jewellery brand or other craftsperson. This makes our detective work harder but with our members’ help, talking to people who have worked in jewellery businesses, the V & A archives and the Goldsmiths’ Library, and the hand engravers whom our volunteers are interviewing we are gradually piecing together the picture.

Sheila McDonald

Exhibition showed a wide range of the styles and techniques used by 26 current engravers. Each engraver was invited to work a small square of silver which we then mounted onto wood to display them all similarly. We are aiming to reach 40 examples by March, so offers to work a square from hand engravers reading this would be most welcome. The final collection will be on permanent display at the Clockmakers’ Museum in the City of London. The continuous daily programme of workshops at Craft Central was given by our members for students and the public. Over two weeks hundreds of people came, some just to see the exhibition, but many stayed longer to sample the approach of different engravers and to learn about different kinds of engraving. These events also attracted many hand engravers who came to meet and discuss ideas and techniques with others working in similar fields. We have had fantastically good feedback from the participants and as a result several people have got new jobs or placements as

George Lukes

In this part of London they are near to specialist tool shops like Walsh & Sons, the many jewellery businesses in Hatton Garden and long established craft galleries for the sale of work – all of which help to bring customers to the area. To start to spread the word more widely about hand engravers and their work we organised Cut in Clerkenwell at Craft Central over two weeks last July. This was both an exhibition and workshops and the whole programme was designed to attract potential hand engravers and related professionals as well as the public. The Paperweights

Peter Fox

U

80 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

We now know of over 200 hand engravers from Scotland, Wales and all over England including, very importantly, Clerkenwell in the City of London which has traditionally been a focal point for these craftspeople. Hand engravers have had workshops in and around the area for hundreds of years and nowadays there are many in the Craft Central buildings and the new Goldsmiths’ Centre.


Feature | Geoff Caspard, George Friend, Harry Graham, Harry Keels, George Turner and others. We would like to hear from those who have anecdotes or stories to tell about these hand engravers or any others they have known or worked with. Please send your reminiscences and names of those you have known to Griselda Bear at: office@griselda.freeserve.co.uk.

hand engravers and, very importantly, two colleges are reinstating courses and training. We are now learning of many new practitioners both current and in the past. We’re also hearing about key teachers who have helped to pass the techniques and skills onto the current generation. From this we are beginning to find master to pupil chains stretching back through the last century taking in the names of great engravers such as Bill Bennett, Fred Fryer, Robert Campbell-Legg,

Once all the personal histories, photographs of work and other memorabilia is assembled and catalogued it will be available for free public access in The Guildhall Library. In addition the Paperweights Exhibition will be on view in the Clockmakers’ Museum. This will be the first archive of hand engraving certainly in this country – possibly anywhere. None of this would be possible without a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund which also gave us very helpful contacts and encouragement to create a permanent archive of this kind. We have also been very fortunate to have essential financial support from Craft Central, The Goldsmiths’ Company, The Clockmakers’ Company and Ernest Cook Trust.

Phil Barnes

Jeweller the

Gems&Jewellery

%

If you have any information about hand engravers or engraving or would like to contribute an example of your work as a Paperweight please get in touch as soon as you read this. We hope that all will be ready for the archive by the end of February and will let you know through The Jeweller when the new archive is open.

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The Voice of the Industry 81


| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY Jewels of the Nile

Amulet of Taweret

Ancient Egypt has always fascinated Westerners. From tales of the expeditions of Lord Carnarvon and Howard Carter, to the more fantastical movies about mummies rising from tombs, Egypt stories (true or false) have captured our imaginations. The Ancient Egyptian gallery remains the most popular exhibition ever to have graced the British Museum. Amy Oliver reveals the myth, culture and history surrounding the jewellery of this time.

Interesting Pieces The jewellery of Ancient Egypt was jampacked with meaning, myth and symbolism. Everything about a piece of jewellery contained significance – the colour, material, imagery, and purpose and it was worn by both genders, and by all levels of society. The types of jewellery worn included all the usual pieces; bead-strung necklaces, pendants, earrings, rings, bracelets and bangles etc. Pectoral of a winged scarab

Egyptian amulets were especially important, as will be explained later. However, there were some stranger pieces which we today may not recognise so easily. One of these, the pectoral, was a large ornamental piece which lay on the chest and was suspended by a chain around the neck. These are most commonly associated with mummies, being laid on top for protection in the afterlife. The pectoral often

depicted images of gods or their associated animals; for example a falcon for Horus, the national deity of Egypt and god of the sky and the hunt. Quite often the hieroglyph names of royalty or high ranking individuals were detailed. One of the most recognisable designs for a pectoral was the scarab beetle, which represented the rebirth or renewal of life. Another type of jewellery which was only found in Ancient Egypt was the gorgerine; a hefty piece made from interlocking metal discs (usually electrum or gold) laid over the chest and tied at the back, forming a kind of decorative cover. Whether they count as jewellery or not, the death masks are one of the most wellknown of all images relating to Ancient Egypt, particularly the death mask of the young pharaoh Tutankhamen. They were ornately decorated with precious stones, and often covered in gold. The highly wrought masks were created for the mummies of royalty and courtiers, and also high ranking officials. The masks had an extremely important role to play in religious mythology; when a person died and was mummified, the Ancient Egyptians believed that their soul and body travelled to the afterlife. The death masks were actually a way of helping the disembodied soul find the right body to inhabit in the afterlife!

Material Meaning Gold was a prolifically used precious metal for jewellery in Ancient Egypt. There were some very good reasons for gold being used perhaps more than any other precious metal. Firstly, it was considered a sacred metal imbibed with divine powers; it did not

82 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013


Antique Jewellery | rust or tarnish; it was reusable and malleable, and it shone like the sun so was associated with the great sun god Ra. It was also considered to be the ‘skin’ of the gods. On a more practical level, gold was readily available from nearby sources such as Nubia. Much jewellery was in fact goldplated bronze, as this would have been more cost-effective but just as striking. Silver was also considered a sacred metal, often used to represent the moon. It was, unlike in many other cultures, even more valuable than gold due to its rarity (it could only be obtained by long-distance trade, not being native to Egypt or its neighbours). Often, a combination of the two metals (electrum) was used in the production of high end jewellery. Electrum was more readily available than silver and could be found in nearby Lydia. Copper was used for magical amulets, and associated particularly with Hathor, the goddess of fertility. The type and colour of gemstones also had great significance. For example, green gemstones – such as beryl, jasper or green feldspar – symbolised plant-life, which the Ancient Egyptians associated with prosperity (unsurprising from an agricultural civilisation). Cornelian, which had a blood-like colour, was used for body-part amulets, as well as stringed bracelets and necklaces. Blue was a highly sort-after colour, especially deep and striking blues as they represented the sky, the heavens and lifegiving water. Lapis lazuli and turquoise were in high demand, and often used for creating

King Tut Death Mask

Hippos presented a great danger to fishermen and merchants working on the river as they have always been one of the most aggressive animals in Africa. The amulet was meant to protect them against such attacks.

Bes

the hair and face for statues of Egyptian gods. Many beads and amulets were also made from pottery, which was then glazed specifically in blue. This would have been due to the rarity and expense of these gemstones in Egypt. As in Mesopotamia, the Egyptians had to import many of their gemstones, such as their favoured lapis lazuli from Afghanistan. Glass beads were often used for the same reason, and because colours could be mixed and patterned for preference. Glass was also much easier to

work with than gemstones, saving time and money for the ancient jeweller.

Amulets & Imagery Amulets were an incredibly popular item of jewellery in Ancient Egypt and provided a range of functions; not only were they beautifully decorative, but it was believed that each amulet held the power to protect its wearer from varying types of evil; be it demons from the underworld, malignant illness or pestilence, or just plain bad luck.

The Voice of the Industry 83




| Antique Jewellery Amulets could also be worn to exert positive influences on the wearer, such as prosperity or good health. Today, we generally tend to think of amulets as pendants, but amulets actually come in many forms. In Ancient Egypt they could be rings, bracelets, necklaces, and diadems (headdresses). Amulet imagery varied greatly, but the earliest types (from 4000 BC) were in the shapes of animals; either as protection against the animal or as a way of gaining the animal’s attributes. A common example would be amulets depicting hippopotami, or rather their heads. They were worn especially by those working on and by the river Nile. Hippos presented a great danger to fishermen and merchants working on the river as they have always been one of the most aggressive animals in Africa. The amulet was meant to protect them against such attacks. Hieroglyph-shaped amulets were in use from about 2650 BC onwards, such as the Sa sign which represented protection in all forms. Amulets shaped like human body parts were also popular. Common forms were hands, feet, arms and legs. People would wear them either to protect the area or to enhance its performance. From 2030 BC to 712 BC amulets shaped like the Ancient Egyptian gods became very popular – usually part human, part-animal. There would have been amulets for every

Blue glazed fiance Amulets strung as a necklace, with both gods and djed pillars

the animal to their advantage. Unsurprisingly, there was another god-amulet used as protection in childbirth and of mothers and infants, though much stranger than that of Taweret. Bes was a dwarf-god; he wore a feathered-headdress and sported a lion’s tail, ears, and mane. His image was incredibly popular as he was also a guardian of the home. Apparently, the Egyptians believed that Bes watched over the family and drove evil away by playing music and waving knives around! Both Bes and Taweret were often shown holding the Sa sign. Amulets weren’t solely for the living though. Large numbers have been found in tombs of the dead, particularly placed between

Wedjat Eye of Horus amulet in blue glazed fiance

conceivable god in the Ancient Egyptian pantheon, so I’ll just give a few of the more interesting examples. Unlike the amulet of the aforementioned hippo’s head amulets depicting the hippopotamus goddess – Taweret – were worn to protect women in childbirth, and newborn babies. The Ancient Egyptians probably gave Taweret these attributes as female hippos are incredibly protective of their young – so the Egyptians thought they were using the aggression of

84 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

the bandage wrappings of mummies. The Ancient Egyptian had a very strong belief that once someone was dead and buried, they took not only their soul but an imitation of their body to the afterlife, and would therefore need the same things there as they did in the world of the living. This is why the dead were buried with things like food, ceramics, clothing, furniture and jewellery (some of the early pharaohs even had their servants killed and buried with them to serve

them in the afterlife!). The most common amulets to be buried with the dead were the ‘djed’ pillar, which symbolised endurance and stability. The djed pillar originally seems to have symbolised the water reeds or a tree, but a later myth developed that it was a representation of the spine or Osiris; hence the stability connotations. The ‘wedjat’ eye of Horus was also popular as it symbolised regeneration and protection. According to mythology, the desert god Seth gouged out the eye of Horus but it was later restored to Horus by Thoth, a healing god. Prayers from the famous Egyptian ‘Book of the Dead’ also featured on amulets for mummies. The cultural significance of jewellery from Ancient Egypt has been whizzed through here – space won’t allow otherwise. But there are endless books, articles, academic papers, blogs and other works dedicated to the jewellery of Ancient Egypt. I have aimed to pick some of the more interesting aspects to fire your imagination; I strongly advise you to take a trip to a museum and have a look at some Ancient Egyptian jewellery – who knows what inspiration you may find? References • 7,000 Years of Jewellery, Hugh Tait, The British Museum Press (1996) • www.britishmuseum.org • www.metmuseum.org • www.king-tut.org.uk/egyptian-mummies/ egyptian-masks.htm • www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Clothing_in_ancient_Egypt • www.allaboutgemstones.com/ jewelry_history_egyptian.html • www.birthdaygems.org/jewelry/ ancient-egyptian-jewelry.htm




The gold standard in sales, stock monitoring and management software www.pursuit.co.uk

The new point of sale. PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE FOURTH AVENUE JEWELLERY LOUNGE, NORWICH

In Fourth Avenue’s new Norwich fashion jewellery lounge, the point of sale is a sofa, armchairs, or anywhere else in the retail space. How? Pursuit’s LIFESTYLE technology provided the perfect solution. With LIFESTYLE, the till functions and complete stock records are on each staff member’s iPad. LIFESTYLE increases sales – details and images of suppliers’ product ranges are instantly accessed and wish lists and wedding lists quickly compiled.

LIFESTYLE increases customer retention – an individual customer’s buying history and past preferences can be rapidly looked up. LIFESTYLE creates a till-free environment – it avoids customers queuing at the counter, selling space is increased, hardware costs are reduced and customers can be closely engaged in a relaxed environment. Take the first step to increased sales. Contact Pursuit now and arrange a live demonstration.

The stock and the till, in every staff member’s hands.

Add Stand 17P60 to your Jewellery Show/Spring Fair itinerary. To book a live demonstration in advance, contact Pursuit now. Telephone +44 (0)1603 263800 or email Lifestyle@Pursuit.co.uk


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Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see… Jewellery Design – From Fashion to Fine Jewellery by Elizabeth Galton (£23.99 Ava Publishing) The former creative director of Links of London and now a director at Aurum Holdings, jewellery designer Galton has drawn on her top notch experience and contact list to put together a comprehensive insight into the life of a jewellery designer, jewellery design best practice and the design process. Part of the Basic Fashion Design series, it offers an inspiring tool for anyone interested in exploring this avenue. There are interviews with and profiles on

names such as Erickson Beamon, Pippa Small and Stephen Webster and topics covered vary from creating a lookbook, materials and sourcing and how to price designs.

Sales & Exhibitions

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

February Until March: Unexpected Pleasures, Design Museum, London SE1 A celebration of the work of contemporary jewellers who have challenged the conventions of jewellery design, re-evaluating what we regard as precious and how jewellery can be worn. www.designmuseum.org

January 13th-14th: Trophex, NEC, Birmingham The exhibition dedicated to trophies, awards and personalised products and incorporates all aspects including giftware, glass, crystal, pins, badges, engraving machines and materials. www.trophex.com

March 9th-14th July: Treasures of the Royal Courts, V&A A major exhibition of around 150 objects that reveal the majesty of the courts of the Tudors and Stuarts, as well of those of Ivan the Terrible and the early Romanovs. Includes jewellery and luxury goods and chronicles the close relationship between our monarchy and the Russian Tsars. www.vam.ac.uk

86 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

Contemporary Jewellers by Roberta Bernabei (£25, Berg Publishers) Conceived as a research tool for those interested in European contemporary jewellery, the author has interviewed 25 jewellers who she considers to be outstanding. Each jeweller expresses themselves directly – there is no analysis from Bernabei – revealing their creative, conceptual and working practices.

27th-29th: Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, Diamond Bourse of Antwerp, Belgium This exclusive, invitation-only fair will feature a further 10 exhibitors this year, bringing the total number to 70, showing diamond jewellery as well as rough and polished stones. www.antwerpdiamondfair.com February 3rd-7th: The Jewellery Show, Birmingham NEC See page 56 for our full preview of this major UK fair offering a comprehensive mix of fine and fashion jewellery, watches, designer collections, jewellery-related products, catwalk shows and seminars. www.jewelleryshow.com

She does however preface the interviews with an introduction that puts contemporary jewellery into historical context. Among the artists featured are Manfred Bischoff, Ted Noten and Wendy Ramshaw. All in Good Time – Reflections of a Watchmaker by George Daniels (£25, Philip Wilson Publishers) This updated autobiography marks the first anniversary of the death of George Daniels, of the twentieth century. The story of the inventor of the revolutionary co-axial escapement is all the more remarkable given the abject poverty that he grow up in – recounted in the early section of the book without any trace of self-pity. Instead, his determination to raise himself out of those circumstances and his passion for watches and watchmaking shine though (that and his second obsession – classic cars). An inspiring read.

22nd-25th: Inhorgenta Europe, Messe Munchen, Munich, Germany For the jewellery and watch fair’s 40th anniversary, a raft of enhancements have been planned, including a strengthening of the Contemporary Design hall. www.inhorgenta.com 26th-1st March: China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair, Shenzhen, China Jewellery, diamonds, jade, pearls, gems, watches and jewellery-related products and technology. www.chinaexhibition.com March 5th-9th: Hong Kong International Jewellery Fair, Hong Kong Convention Centre The 30th show with about 3000 exhibitors from 48 countries, offering everything from international brands, fine jewellery, designer ranges, silver and fashion jewellery and loose stones to pearls. www.hktdc.com 20th-23rd: Amberif, Gdansk, Poland The 20th anniversary of this show devoted to amber, jewellery and gemstones will see around 450 companies. www.amberif.pl


Senior Service and Repairs Manager George Pragnell, one of the largest and most prestigious jewellers outside London, is renowned for its service and traditional values. We are based in Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire, right in the heart of England and close to the Cotswolds.

SOUTH DEVON JEWELLERS, NEWTON ABBOTT + + + + +

We are seeking an experienced individual, ideally with knowledge of both jewellery and watches, to be responsible for the coordination of all the work that we carry out in our workshops.

Renowned town centre jewellers Sales c. ÂŁ375,381. Gross margin 49.1% Net profit c. ÂŁ66,046. Fully staff-run Prominent 3-storey building New lease option available

This job means that you will need to: t 6TFZPVSFYQFSJFODFUPXSJUFVQBOEEFUBJMUIFXPSLSFRVJSFEGPSFBDIJUFN t &OTVSFUIBUUIBUFWFSZKPCHPFTUPUIFBQQSPQSJBUFXPSLTIPQ t 1SPWJEFÄ•OBMRVBMJUZDPOUSPMDIFDLT

ÂŁ440,000 Freehold/ÂŁ95,000 Leasehold For further information, please contact: Paul Heather, Exeter Office Kings Wharf, The Quay Exeter EX2 4AN T: 01392 330254 E: paul.heather@christie.com

*OSFUVSO XFXJMMQSPWJEFBDPNQFUJUJWFTBMBSZ CPOVTBOECFOFÄ•UT*GZPVBSF interested, please send your CV, covering letter and salary details to:

Calls may be recorded for quality or training purposes Ref 32/16966/S

The key skills we are looking for are: t (PPEBUUFOUJPOUPEFUBJM t "CMFUPDPNNVOJDBUFDPOÄ•EFOUMZVTJOHUIFUFMFQIPOFBOEFNBJMBTXFMMBT on a one-to-one basis. t 4FMGNPUJWBUFEBOEBCMFUPXPSLVOTVQFSWJTFE

www.christie.com

Paul Sanders, George Pragnell Ltd, 5&6 Wood Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6JA or e-mail to paul.sanders@pragnell.co.uk by the closing date of 15th February 2013.

The Voice of the Industry 87


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Tel: 0161 773 0000 www.donnsjewellery.co.uk

Gemstones

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Traditional hand engraving service at its best. Competitive price structure with fast delivery and turnaround.

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Jewellery Repairs

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@TalbotsGroup www.talbotsgroup.co.uk sales@talbotsgroup.co.uk 0121 333 3544


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PRESMAN MASTERMELT The oldest ‘Trade Only’ Counter (est. 1945)

Jewellery Scrap Buyers

La Sella Resort – Denia Spain Enjoy a fantastic holiday on the Costa Blanca Golf • Tennis • Horse Riding • Spa Modern 3 bedroom townhouse for hire throughout the year on the splendid 'La Sella Golf' complex, close to the coastal towns of Denia and Javea. For more details visit www.golf-lasella.co.uk or call Toni Steele 07534 892124

Try our Free Post service Lemel & Workshop Waste Processing Integrity Transparency & Efficiency (What more do you want?) For daily scrap prices or more info 020 7400 3400 / mastermelts.co.uk 56 Hatton Garden, Mon-Fri 9.00am-4.00pm

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To learn more or to make a booking in the Jeweller display Cabinet email Neil Oakford at: sales@kennettbrand.com

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The

Last Word Fittingly, we are kicking off 2013’s Last Word feature with jeweller Peter Jackson who was awarded an MBE in the 2012 Queen’s Birthday Honours for his work to charity. Personal Profile Peter Jackson the Jeweller was founded in 1982 in Preston and since then four further stores have opened, in Blackburn, Southport, Carlisle and Bury – the last in the portfolio having been added in 2010. Peter is the managing director of the family-owned and run business, which has won a number of awards over the years, culminating in Peter’s MBE. Among the many charities that benefit from the company’s support are The Roy Castle Lung Cancer Foundation, The Prince’s Trust, North West Air Ambulance and Child Action North West.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life? In my personal life it is my wife Shannon. But in my business life, it was my grandfather, Percy Brown, who inspired me to go into the jewellery trade. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? In my view – determined, loyal and caring; according to others – pedantic, unpredictable, chocoholic (or, possibly OCD!)

who seem to forget this and don't treat their customers with the respect that they should. Was receiving the MBE really a surprise? Not even an inkling? You can tell us now! What does receiving it mean to you and your business? It was completely unexpected. To me it is the ultimate recognition for me and everyone who has helped me with all the charity work I have done over the years. For the business, it has generated a huge amount of publicity and further added to our reputation.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Nothing – I have been in the jewellery business for over 30 years and I have enjoyed (almost) every minute of it. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? There are many wonderful people in the trade, but we all owe our jobs to the people who pay our wages – our customers. I think that across the business world, there are people working for big, successful companies

90 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2013

If not the jewellery industry, what might your alternative career have been? I would love to done something artistic but never had the skill or the patience!

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!) Why? Toronto – I love the vibrancy, multiculturalism and attitude to customer service. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? I don’t have a favourite; the world is an amazing place and I want to see as much of it as I possibly can. Tell us something not many people know about you… I always wanted to be a pilot. I did have flying lessons, but never moved on. What was the last film you saw at the cinema? Seven Psychopaths – a very dark comedy, but an excellent film. What is your chosen form of exercise? Probably chasing my children, although I do go to the gym whenever I can. Do you Tweet? Occasionally Quick Fire • Red or white wine? Red • Diamonds or coloured stones? Diamonds • White or yellow metal? Love them both • TV or radio? Both in moderation • Jewellery on men? If they wish to wear it, yes • Delegator or control freak? Control freak • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles • Paperback or e-reader? Paperback


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