Womanswear designer specialising in nightwear
Contents Chapter 1
Persnal Design DNA What is the collection about? understanding the issue Design fabric sourcing
p. 16- 26
p. 26- 31
Emotional attachment theory
p. 31-33 Exploration
trend story board fabric sourcing Development and observation Range plan
Chapter Persnal Design DNA What is the collection about? understanding the issue Design fabric sourcing
â€œThis collection specialises in luxury nightwear combined with daywear garments, with the focus on the trend underwear as outerwear; mixing high quality silks with fine tulle and jersey to bring out a contemporary edge, incorporating new technology such as laser cutting.â€? Jessica Eccleston
Jesscia Rose Eccleston Persnal Design DNA â€œDriven towards designing and producing luxury nightwear for women with the intend to make them feel special and enhance their sensual side, the use of high quality fabrics that feel silky and soft on the skin will embrace their inner beauty and shine through on the outside. â€œ
(Fig.1,2 & 3. Jessica Eccleston 2015)
What is the collection about?
Lady Noir shows high craftsmanship of beautifully constructed nightwear pieces that interprets glamour, sensuality and refined elegance. This sensual nightwear collection is inspired by the shapes and silhouettes of the 1940s, bringing provocative luxury back into the bedroom. Paying attention to detail focusing on the female form regaining femininity in women, with deep black tones, transparent fabrics and delicate laser cut appliquĂŠ creating a lace effect. By contrasting jersey with soft chiffon and silk it crosses the boundaries between loungewear and lingerie;
(Fig. 4 & 5. Jessica Eccleston 2015)
blurring the border that separates evening attire from seductive nightwear this collection demonstrates how some looks can be teamed with day wear pieces to create a sophisticated daytime and evening look. The collection combines fine detailing and craftsmanship to design and construct timeless and luxurious garments. Fabrics used throughout the collection includes, silk satin, silk chiffon, fine tulle, scuba jersey, spandex, power mesh and neoprene. The combination of natural and stretch fabrics adds a contemporary and current feel to the essence of the collection.
“I consider lace to be one of the prettiest imitations ever made of the fantasy of nature; lace always evokes for me those incomparable designs which the branches and leaves of trees embroider across the sky, and I do not think that any invention of the human spirit could have a more graceful or precise origin.” Coco Chanel, April 29, 1939
understanding the issue The issue was identified as an opportunity to address and explore through this project, solved through artistic development and an outcome of an 8 look collection.
The lingerie and nightwear market is expanding with seeing a rise in demand due to the underwear as outerwear trend; people are experimenting with undergarments and taking more risks when it comes to showing what’s Specialising in nightwear researching the underneath. The luxury lingerie market has stayed nightwear and lingerie industry is vital to stable when the recession hit due to new designs, understand what is current and going on in the trends and up and coming brands contributing to industry. In 2010 the entire lingerie market was customers purchasing lingerie and nightwear as an estimated a worth of £2.93bn, increasing by 17.8% indulgence during times of financial difficulty. over a 5 year period, predicting to reach £3.51bn this year (2015).
encouraging structured daywear pieces
Design Re-Renovating luxury lingerie and nightwear in combination with daywear pieces to form a versatile collection; teaming new technology such as laser cutting with traditional lace to form an innovative way of embellishing the garments. These timeless well crafted pieces will enhance the female form, producing garments that will make women feel empowered and special, creating an emotional connection with these beautiful feminine pieces. Design inspiration was drawn from a variety of visuals, 1940’s fashion, nightwear and loungewear with the combination of modern day lingerie and nightwear is established throughout. Figure forming shapes arise embracing the natural female form, contrasted with structural elements from old Hollywood glamour accentuating the waist line; crafted to fit and sculpt the figure. The collection has developed into a wearable wardrobe for the modern woman for use during the day or night. Designing to fulfil a fantasy dream, making women feel special and confident wearing luxurious seductive garments. Balancing a mix between 1940’s film noir and the modern woman was important to develop a wearable collection that would fit into today’s market. Hints of 1940’s silhouettes against the more soft looser fit of contemporary loungewear with figure hugging high waisted knickers and modern triangle bras to form a young modern provoking image. Sketching, moulage and toiling were conducted to aid design and new ideas, inspired from the imagery taken from lace, 1940’s fashion and film noir movies.
fabric sourcing Fabrics used throughout the collection includes, silk satin, silk chiffon, fine tulle, scuba jersey, spandex, power mesh and neoprene. The combination of natural and stretch fabrics adds a contemporary and current feel to the essence of the collection.
Chapter concept theme Muse
‘Lingerie is not about seducing men, it’s about embracing womanhood’ Dita Von Teese
laser cutting samples
concept Inspired by lace and the femininity of floral shapes, experiments with lace appliquĂŠ were conducted, developing further into laser cutting researcher-designed lace styles; exploring solid shapes to laser cut and appliquĂŠ onto the garments. Working with fine mesh tulle the black on black and white on white appliquĂŠ worked effectively keeping in with the black and white colour palette. After exploring multiple methods to secure the laser cutting onto the fabric it was finalised with using a double sided bonding adhesive which was laser cut at the same time as the fabric and heat pressed into place, finishing off with beading embellishment onto the flowers. Influenced by designers such as Francesco Scognamiglio an Italian luxury couture womanswear designer who is knows for his high fashion and experimentation with alternative fabrics with bold shapes and lines, keeping in tunes with the sensuality of the contemporary woman. Truly inspired by some of the garments shown through his spring 2015 ready-to-wear collection, experimentation was tested to aid developmentation and design. Underlining the purpose of the collection throughout the design and development process was key to continuingly concentrate on the message in order for it to translate thorough in the garments. Creating a combination of nightwear and daywear for the young modern women channelling her inner beauty, garments beautifully designed with fine detailing to make women feel special. This was the message that was referred to throughout the process.
(Fig.6&7. Francesco scognamiglio. 2015)
theme To capsulate this collection great influence has came from 1940’s with a focus on the strong glamorous women from the classic period of American film noir which was a key stage from the early 40’s through to late 50’s. Film Nior is associated with low-key black and white visual style; the term film noir is French for ‘black film’ which accompanies the collection in colour and style. The women who starred in these films played strong characters discarding the stereotypical loving wife and mother to act very independent and seductively powerful, often presented as desirable objects for the men. Manipulating men by using her sexual attractiveness in order to gain power, independence or money; in the end her misbehaviour leads to her own destruction and the destruction of the men who are attracted to her as a way of escaping from the male character. Exploring the female role and her seductive mannerisms to influence this collection; telling a story similar to the crime drams of film noir.
The mystery and allure of a femme fatale role is captured throughout the collection, she finds marriage to be confiding, sexless, loveless and dull; to gain her own independence and power she uses her sexual attractiveness and cunning ways. Remaining strong and independent even when she has caused her own destruction, in spite of her predictable death leaving behind the strong and exciting image of this unrepentant women who defies the control of men and discards the institution of the family. Feeling trapped by husbands who treat and see them as objects referring to them as “standard equipment” (I wake up screaming 1941) the woman’s lack of happiness and status in a marriage is what leads them to destruction. (J.Blaser 2008) This collection is made to make women feel empowered and seductive, strong and beautiful. Exploring 1940’s fashion as a whole as well as looking into nightwear and lingerie from that time provides a wider insight into the shapes, silhouette and style of the garments, paying close attention to the detailing from the decade. Ejecting the film noir period with modernised design gave this collection a contemporary style, simultaneously generating timeless everlasting garments
“Mrs. Elsa Bannister: I don’t know how to shoot. Michael O’Hara: It’s easy, you just pull the trigger.” The Lady From Shanghai
the lady from shanghai 1948
(Fig.8&13. The Lady from Shanghai. allposters. 1948)
Rita Hayworth Rita Hayworth was a 1940 and 1950’s American icon who was best known for starring in the films ‘the lady from shanghai’ and ‘Gilda’ in the 40’s and later becoming one of the 50’s star pin up girls. Using Hayworth as a muse by bringing her into the 21st century with a modern look this collection will capture her as a femme fatale. The strong seductive persona and glamorous image Hayworth had will portray in the Noir collection, empowering women with their sexuality. Investigating a current muse to align this collection with a modern woman of today, Rita Ora has style and an image which will sit well within this collection.
(Fig.14 Rita Hayworth, Theguardian 1948)
â€œI think all women have a certain elegance about them which is destroyed when they take off their clothes.â€? Rita Hayworth (the love goddess)
Chapter Market Cliente History
market Aimed at the higher end and luxury sectors this collection could be seen for sale in well known department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges. Sitting alongside and competing against the more recognised brands such as La Perla and Agent provocateur.
competitors La Perla- Founded in 1954 an Italian luxury womanswear clothing company specialising in lingerie, expanding to swimwear in 1971 and perfume in 1993. Agent Provocateur – founded in 1994, an iconic British lingerie and nightwear brand with around 60 stand alone stores worldwide, they differentiate themselves from other retailers from the products they sell and how they promote the brand. “Lingerie designed to identify life’s pleasures and unlock your innermost desire”, (Amy Chapman 2011) Victoria secrets- founded in 1977 Victoria Secrets is the largest lingerie retailer in America making sales of $6.12 billion in 2012, by 2006 they had 1,000 stores across the US and are beginning to open stores globally, in 2012 the first store was open in the UK in London and since then there have been stores opening up across the UK in the larger cities; retailing lingerie, nightwear, loungewear, swimwear and a perfume and beauty sector.
why am i intrested in this market? Developing a passion for nightwear and lingerie over the past few years has come from the initial introduction through a live project with Panache during the second year of study. Gaining a wider insight into the industry, undergoing a work placement at Jane Woolrich designs, a prestigious luxury nightwear and lingerie company based in the midlands was where the passion sparked. Completing a mini design project consisting of 4 garments, designed and constructed; finding this experience to be a true inspiration which ignited an excitement for this industry.
Captivating the sewing skills, fabric knowledge and pattern drafting gained, this was injected into the collection to showcase work as a nightwear designer. Driven towards this specialism the aim is to explore this industry after study, this collection will showcase the label as a designer to prepare for the future. Aiming to please women and fulfil their femininity with beautiful hand crafted nightwear which will bring out their inner confidence.
â€˜I am proud that we have developed a reputation for producing beautiful nightwear, lingerie and corsetry for over 25 years. Each of the designs are individually hand made to order in the heart of the English countryside by specialists.â€™ Jane Woolrich
internship at 24th March- 21st April 2014
Garments made on placement
Who Lady Noir is aimed at young modern women aged around 21-45 who wear designer labels in the day, they are self-confident, strong and passionate with a provocative attitude. They enjoy the finer things in life and have a refined taste for luxury products. They will enjoy Lady Noir as it a fashion nightwear range, creating a fantasy feel, every woman dreams to own such beautiful pieces, like jewellery for the body, they will buy into the collection to be a part of the lifestyle that comes with it. They will also buy into the products on the strength of the craftsmanship, quality and detailing such as French seams and silk trimmings.
modern muse- rita ora
(Fig.15 Rita Ora, Dailymail, 2014)
Lady Noir sees classic designs and detailing with a modern twist to cater for a wider market we have shot the collection in a high fashion shoot to appeal to the younger clients as they will be interested in the whole package. This collection explores the trend underwear as outwear which has been creeping in and out of fashion since the 80â€™s, teaming nightwear and daywear for a risquĂŠ look that can be worn out in public.
aged around 21-45
History Development through the collection by experimenting with more structural pieces by pulling inspiration from corsetry and stomachers, this gave the collection more body and substance. Corsets first became admired in the sixteenth-century, seeing the Victorian ere reaching it highest popularity. Designed to be worn under garments to cinch in the waist line, however there have been occasions seen where the corset is worn as an outer-garment. http://www.marquise. de/en/themes/korsett/korsett.shtml The corset has seen dramatic development over time, first being very stiff and commonly made out of layered fabric stiffened with glue and tightly laced, this changed in the eighteenth century when women started riding bicycles and the corsets were worn so tight it was almost impossible and very impractical to ride. The corset became a lot softer and less harsh on the body meaning women could do a lot more and they became more active. Combining the corsetry craft with a modern twist by using contemporary fabrics such as neoprene, with the use of panelling to form that corset like effect. Worn over garments instead of hidden underneath also modernises the look.
Waist Trainer A current trend that has hit the media is the waist trainer, seeing celebrities such as Kim Kardashion and holly Hogan post pictures on their social media sites. By using a waist-cinching corset it gradually reduces the waist and is known as waist training. Unlike when they became popular during Victorian times they would be worn as an undergarment, waist trainers are worn just to train The waist and not as an item of clothing to wear out.
Experimentation with corset like piece
Chapter literature research Craftsmanship Emotional attachment theory
When I think of â€˜Made in Britainâ€™ I immediately think of our iconic luxury British brands that design and manufacture their collections here in the UK, in turn supporting our home-grown design talent, textile producers, UK ateliers and factories. Helen David -General Merchandise Manager - Harrods
Craftsmanship Through the development of time and technology fashion has lost the traditional craftsmanship which has been replaced by machinery, quicker techniques and cheaper manufacture; translating into wasteful consumption and meaningless garments. This project highlights new technology combined with high quality crafted pieces to construct a well designed and thought out garment. Made by one human with thought, care and attention for another is a rarity in the day we live in. Having a strong focus on traditional craftsmanship highlighting the values and what the product represents. In time hoping customers experience a connection with the brand as well as the product creating an emotional involvement and attachment. (Claire.B 2011)
â€˜Impeccable craftsmanship is the essence of haute couture, and it begins long before the fabric is cut.â€™ Coture Sewing Techniques p.11
â€œItâ€™s time to slow down and consider the true cost of choosing quantity over quality.â€? Kate Fletcher
Emotional attachment theory Being emotionally attached to an item of clothing is becoming less common with the ease of fast fashion and neglect of sustainability; we buy a cheap garment to wear once which gets thrown in the wardrobe on top of a heap of clothing. Paying fine attention to detail and care into designing and constructing a garment will come across in the final outcome, along with the use of some high quality natural fabrics, generating a long bond with the garment which will be treasured and treated with care.
Chapter creative research Exploration
Exploration Exploration and experimentation of laser cutting throughout this project, primarily learning how to navigate a new piece of machinery before testing out various designs and fabrics on the laser cutters. Successfully achieving a means of attaching the laser cutting onto the fabrics was a necessity in effectively creating the correct design of the garments.
Chapter trend story board fabric sourcing Development and observation Range plan
trend From the outset the aims were to achieve a purely nightwear based collection, this has evolved into a combination of nightwear and daywear with the focus on the trend underwear as outerwear giving more options when styling a look making the collection more diverse and versatile. The trend has been seen from high fashion to mainstream, Madonna was one of the first to popularise the trend during the 80â€™s by wearing the cone bra and girdles over her clothing. Today we see style icons and artists in what is seen as lingerie and intimate apparel, seen performing on stage or to exclusive events. Designers who have been influenced by the trend include: Jean Paul Gaultier who was brought to the front of fashion by the likes of Madonna; Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, and Dolce & Gabbana are all high end designers who have embraced the trend.
â€œA desire to blur the line between lingerie and outwear. Slips in the place of dresses and bustiers instead of T-shirts.â€? La Perla-2014
story board Mood boards and story boards were compiled throughout the process to aid design development, detailing and styling, selecting key images that best highlight the collection in concept and style. Studying the concept and theme through image analysis displaying creativity with drawings and design through sketchbook work shows documented ideas and thoughts throughout the project. As well as fabric sampling, toiling and laser cutting experimentation all add to the final outcomes of the collection process. 38
Development and observation
Seeing the collection for the first time on live models during the critiques allows a clear vision of what it all looks like when pulled together and is easier to spot where something dose not look right or needs re-working. During the first critique the advise given was three looks need re working as the remaining 5 looked like a strong collection. With the main focus being on the high neckline this was a success and to bring it into more of the garments to create a tighter collection. Balancing the contrasting black and white in the collection is another feature that could be evaluated seeing where the colours would work when spread out across the 8 looks. Paying closer attention to 1940â€™s loungewear detailing to ensure the era was captured in the collection well will be a focus. Witnessing the transition and development of the collection over the past weeks shows how far the collection has come come as well as the designer and taking on board comments and feedback.
Range plan Through design development, sampling and testing a range of 8 looks were designed and manufactured, with the option to form several combinations from the range of 22 pieces. The silhouettes and shapes are inspired by 1940â€™s film noir contrasted with modern nightwear.
Chapter reflective analysis pHOTOSHOOT bibliography
Reflecting on the process and progression of the collection it has developed through experimentation and risk taking; trialling contrasting fabrics and more structured options it has seen to have been successful. With a focus on the nightwear and lingerie market taking inspiration from 1940â€™s film noir.
By using the techniques and skills learnt during work placement it has enabled the adaptation to these garments, applying the knowledge of fabric and construction to achieve a high standard outcome. The concept and aims of the project were met by an outcome of an 8 outfit collection and many other combinations mixing the 23 garments. Creating a film Taking on board feedback from tutors and having an noir feel to the essence of the collection, a wearable collection combining nightwear and daywear pieces. It open mind to suggestions and experimentation has seen the collection develop and evolve into a strong has sparked an interest with young women who desire solid assortment of garments and a balanced collection. to wear such delicate and intricate garments.
‘lady Noir’ Spring/Summer 2016 Final Collection
Designer & styling. Jessica Eccleston Photographer. Jason Holzer Model. Kerry-Ann MUA & Hair. Laura Taff
Silk flowers individually laser cut and applied onto fine tulle with hand beading embellishment.
Claire B Shaeffer (2011). Coture Sewing Techniques. USA: The Taunton Press. p11. John J. Blaser and Stephanie L.M. Blaser.. (2008). The Femme Fatale. Available: http://www.filmnoirstudies.com/essays/ no_place5.asp. Last accessed 01/05/2015. Lisa Wang. (2013). UK Luxury Market Set to Double Over the Next 5 Years, Says Study. Available: http://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/uk-luxury-market-set-to-double-over-the-next-5-years. Last accessed 30th January 2014. Mary Lynn Stewart with Nancy Janovicek. (2001). Slimming the Female Body?: Re-evaluating Dress, Corsets, and Physical Culture in France, 1890sâ€“1930s. In: Mary.L Fashion Theory volume 5. UK: Berg. 173-194.
Image list Jessica Eccleston Jason Holzer- Photographer Pintrest Tumblr WGSN Blogspot Style.com
MDes Fashion Design final collection reflective log, communicating research, development & resolution of the project
Published on May 19, 2015
MDes Fashion Design final collection reflective log, communicating research, development & resolution of the project