Designer File Jess Huber
Table of Contents 3 DVF 4 Alexander McQueen 5 Carolina Herrera 6 Delpozo 7 Balenciaga 8 Balmain 9 Stella McCartney 10 Marc Jacobs 11 Zac Posen 12 Valentino
DVF Jonathan Saunders moved to New York from London for the chief creative officer role at DVF. He made prints a centerpiece in his own collection, and has an exceptional eye for color. He put all of this into play in the Spring collection. Saunders used asymmetry throughout the collection, The collection encompasses outerwear, including cotton and leather trenches, paired with a detachable fox fur collar, as well as ribbed knits and striped ribbon detailing. He said he expects knits to become a more important part of the business.
Alexander McQueen Sarah Burton flew her team up to the Shetland Isles, far north of mainland Scotland, to gather research last summer. They researched the traditions carried out by the crofters, a tiny community which has knitted wool lace shawls for hundreds of years. When they returned to London, they were inspired to make a show from what they had seen. The collection consisted of dresses knitted from wool lace, clinging tight to a tiny, high bodice, and flaring hankerchief-point skirts. It also consisted of sheer dresses with the embroideries of wild flowers, and blue thistle prints on cotton. Checked black-and-white plaid pantsuits wiht punk-refernenced kilts also made an appearance.
Carolina Herrera This year marks Carolina Herrera’s 35th anniversary in business. Her Spring collection is a smart and metered mix of the then and now. She took cues and highlights from her experience and refreshed them for “the women of today.” The most memorable things in Herrera’s collection were her evening gowns. She created a shoukderless dress, wrapped at the bust, in a graphic black-and-white scheme. Metallic brocades were paper thin and crinkly; denim dresses were washed to a medium-grade indigo, and despite their volume, these items looked easygoing. Herrera also suggested knits, tulleskirts, and one knockout off-white lace gown with a halter neck over a chiffon polo shirt. As rooted as the show was in the past, it felt very current.
Delpozo Josep Font ascribed his ongoing love affair with bubble-like volumes to his training in architecture. Font took his inspiration from the Spanish Impressionist Joaquin Sorolla and contemporary artist Soo Sunny Park. Sorolla led Font to use deep periwinkle for his opening looks, while Park set Font thinking about handcraft and luminosity. The collection constisted of metallic floral jacquard, trousers nipped at the waist and full through the hip and thigh, and a series of crocheted open knits. The collection was undeniably modern.
Balenciaga Balenciaga designer, Demna Gvasalia, took a huge risk with the use of spandex in his Spring collection. He encased the entire lower body, pointy stilettos to hip, in single colors and bright, retro florals. He inserted a whalebone rod across the shoulders of the trenchcoats and boxy jackets. The show ended with latex and patent leather capes.
Balmain Olivier Rousteingâ€™s Spring collection featured cut-outs on bodices, revealing a good amount of underboob, slits extended way up the front of both thighs, and provactively placed sheer bits. Instead of embroideries, he let color do the talking. After desert tones and cargo greens, he showed a jungleâ€™s worth of brights: in solids, mismatched snakeskin prints, and graphic stripes.
Stella McCartney Stella McCartney has always created clothes that work for real life. She is a long time vegetarian, who wears neither leather or fur, nor makes her label in them. Her collection consisted of oversized tees, dresses, and all-inones. She sent out a couple of stretchy lace evening looks embroidered with positive messaging. She made use of corsetry detailing, without looking constricting, due to the cotton fabric she used, as well as the volume from rounded shoulders in jackets, and the proporttions of her paper bag-waist trousers. Overall, her collection was very relaxed.
Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobsâ€™ models sported candy-colored dreadlocks and platforms. There was sparkle, satin, and snakeskin along with doese of denim and camouflage. His collection consited of A-line coats in rainbow-patterned holographic sequins, and a crocheted cardigan sprouting feathers at the shoulders. The showâ€™s stand out piece was a silver snakeskin coat with a Julie Verhoeven design on the back.
Zac Posen Zac Posen decided to start his new lineup from a fundamental inspiration point- his customers. He took feedback from his retailers into account. His collection was a supersaturated, topographical concoction of both day and nightwear.
Valentino Pierpaolo Piccioli is an avid researcher and a fan of the Renaissance. The collection was based on the triptych, “The Garden of Earthly Delights”. He was also fascinated by the work of Zandra Rhodes, a British fashion designer of the ‘70’s and ‘80’s, known for her hand-drawn prints and floaty, hippy dresses. The collection featured hankerchief-hemmed dresses, delicately printed or embroidered with patterns of birds and fantasy vegetation. It also featured a brocade coat in plush pink, and coral and poison-green patterned boy-cut trousers, both paired with white shirts, making them look completely modern.