THE WORLDâ€™S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
Enter the ESTETICA digital world. The future is now!
An exclusive interview with John Paul DeJoria, the man at the helm of John Paul Mitchell Systems
Schwarzkopf Professional brought their worldwide charity initiative, Shaping Futures, to South Africa
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Stylists share their favourite products, preferred styling tools and secret product cocktails
SOCIAL MEDIA www.twitter.com/ @Estetica_SA
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a head of its time tri-zone™ technology
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editorial Embracing change There is nothing like ‘change’ to stir things up and ruffle a few feathers. It has a unique AFRICA way of pushing us out of our comfort zone and into the unknown. It forces us to do things differently and to think out of the box. For some, this is an extremely daunting task. I however, love and embrace the idea of change. Like a breath of fresh air when it Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas Photo: Babak
is needed most. As you indulge in this edition of ESTETICA SA you will notice the transformation that our magazine has recently gone through; new and exciting design layouts, bold and enticing fonts, colourful and eye catching imagery. It’s a visual emporium. Someone who is changing the business of hairdressing and is not afraid of doing things differently, is the man at the helm of John Paul Mitchell Systems. In an exclusive interview, page 78-81, ESTETICA speaks to John Paul Dejoria about the past, present and future of this one-of-a kind company. Schwarzkopf Professional is changing people’s lives with their worldwide charity initiative, Shaping Futures. They have partnered with leading non-profit organisation
Cindy Horton Editor ESTETICA South Africa firstname.lastname@example.org
SOS Children’s Villages and volunteer hairdressers, in order to introduce disadvantaged youth to the craft of hairdressing. Shaping Futures, page 82-83, brought the charity initiative to South Africa, where volunteers trained 30 students in the SOS Children’s Village Ennerdale, Johannesburg.
We at ESTETICA SA have welcomed our recent change and are excited to share our new ‘look’ with you. As the saying goes, ‘change is as good as a holiday’.
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D ED I C AT ED T O C O L O R P ERF EC T IO N .
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ESTETICA SOUTH AFRICA n. 22/2013
contents Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy CEO Ralf Fletcher PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Van Fletcher email@example.com EDITOR Cindy Horton firstname.lastname@example.org CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jayne Macé email@example.com LICENSING EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Erika Marchese firstname.lastname@example.org BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER & ADVERTISING Lizel Jonker email@example.com SUBSCRIPTION Ingrid Johnstone firstname.lastname@example.org IMAGES www.shutterstock.com PRINTERS Paarl Media Paarl PUBLISHED BY Topco Media 2nd Floor Bree Street Studios 17 New Church Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: email@example.com Website: www.estetica.co.za
Creativity Looks Trends Photo Shoot Beauty Beauty Beauty Icons Vision
Border Crossing Daily Divas Giddy-up a go-go Free-style Stylemakers Accessories Women Men Hair by Beckham Timeless Collection
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Hair becomes an architectual challenge. Stretching the limits of design.
MODA: INTERNATIONAL TRENDS Collection
Feature Tool Savvy 65 Dossier Styling Assists 66 Business Trusted Tools 70 Discussion Hero Stylers 73 Photo Shoot Melodic Maelstrom 76 Interview John Paul DeJoria 78 Education Shaping Futures 82 Editorial Rock ‘n Ride 84 Events President’s Night 2013 86 Editorial Grant Payments 88 News Report 90 Product Reviews 92 Ad Index 94 Subscriptions 95 Stockists 96
Hair as a musical beat, with bespoke melodies.
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Border Crossing link
With electronic memes and digital technology moving at the speed of a touchpad, inspiration may arrive from near or far, past, present or future.
ART IS HAIR AND HAIR IS ART
Thomas Dunkin, Sebastian Professional stylist, cites “the architectural shine of Shanghai and the rebellious texture of Berlin” are influences in Sebastian Professionals Urban Explorers Collection. “Just because you can do something weird doesn’t always mean you Courtesy of Ernesto Artillo
Courtesy of Mo Gerngross
Lucie Doughty for Paul Mitchell Systems
hanks to digital technology, style news is made and shared at the speed of a retweet. Instant icons flash from cellphone to cellphone, across oceans and continents in seconds. The most electrifying inspirations for fashion-forward hair come from the heart of global cities: gravity-defying buildings, the synthetic pulse of neon.
should,” cautions Ammon Carver, Matrix Artistic Designer. Many stylists suggest trying out radical crayon-box colours with extensions before committing. Stylists report that clients’ tastes are changing because everyone’s horizons are being broadened. Even a day at the office or a casual cocktail party becomes an opportunity to step out of the comfort-zone of the basic blow-out or flat-ironed 'skinny' into something more adventurous. Colour blocks in Lucie Doughty's disconnected bob or Leonel Rodriquez's water colour wash seem to mimic expressionist paintings by Mo Gerngross, while portrait artists like Ernesto Artillo and hair artists like Jason Stanton seem to find common ground in a theme of disconnected identities. Michael Hansmeyer uses algorithms and laser cutting technology to create intricately carved columns that seem to be echoed in astounding avant garde hair sculptures. Hairdressing can even take on light installations in stunning digital mixed media. Perhaps, most fascinating is the fusion of the future with the ancient past.
Colour blocks and disconnection are trending in art and hair fashion.
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Leonel Rodriquez for Farouk Systems
Julian Macias for Farouk Systems
Nick Stenson for Matrix
Courtesy of Michael Hansmeyer
Architecture and art are closely related in both worlds.
The future is an â€œeveryoneâ€?look.
Patrick McIvor, Goldwell/KMS
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Hair: Christine Doerge. Photo: Eric Fisher
Brian & Sandra Smith, Matrix Artistic Directors. Photo: David Byun
Going back in time for a darkly sensual approach to braids, twists, waves and textures
Courtesy of HBO
Julian Macias for Farouk Systems
Twirl Around to keep wavy tresses from frizzing, for a softly tousled look and feel. Game of Thrones character Daenerys Targaryen, Mother of Dragons, played by Emilia Clark, rocks a coif which centres on a cap of tight corn-rowing at the back of the head, releasing into multiple plaits down the back. A plus: undo the braids and you’ve got a flowy, longlasting natural crimp. Once confined to the Renaissance Faire costume circuit, today's woman presents her stylist with requests via cell-phone imagery of Byzantine, Romanesque, Viking and Druid-inspired dos. Matrix's Ammon Carver observes, “Fantasy and fictional stories aren’t just for kids anymore.”
Courtesy of HBO
Courtesy of HBO
Acid-bright colours and hard-lined futuristic forms are not every woman’s fantasy, and the lush production values of television series like HBO’s Game of Thrones may bring out your dragon-loving medieval princess. Hair evoking the world lit only by fire is all about texture: long and lived-in. This hair evokes the feel of an amulet or talisman, braided, woven, twisted and knotted for magical powers. Stephanie Kocielski for JPMS recommends Full-Circle Leave-In Treatment and Curls
Lush hair inspired by fire-lit ancient worlds.
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“Scientists predict that in the future, there will be no natural blondes,” says Patrick McIvor, Artistic and Techniculture Director for Goldwell/KMS. Blondes have always been rare, and now they are an endangered species. Claudio Lazo comments, “We say ‘tall, dark and handsome’ to describe a good – looking man, suggesting ruggedness and masculinity. Blonde has the opposite effect.” The new crop of formulation breakthroughs means that anyone can enter the blonde zone, whether lightening up just for the summer or even for a night with clip-in extensions. Once you've attained your Malibu – or Memphis – inspired hue, translucent pastel tints can suggest delicate petals to offset the amber waves of grain, evoking the heartland blonde, or textured styling can evoke anything from ocean breakers to cornsilk.
Amelia Fuggitt/Paul Mitchell
The colours of nature and landscapes have always inspired art and fashion.
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During her 8-year career, Siobhan McCallum, now a Los Angeles resident, has been a runway and celebrity stylist who has adopted OYA as her new favourite professional only colour line, taking on the position of Product Development Manager.
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I love the warm, rich hair tone with her amber eyes and hazelnut complexion. She absolutely needs shorter layers and â€“ ladies, please ditch the middle parting! Both suggestions would help her face from appearing too long. Shorter layers also create a tousled, but polished beachy look. With her natural hair texture, she could achieve a beautiful style with minimal effort. If she had more highlights at her roots, the colour would seem more natural. OYA's Demi Permanent Clear (with no pigment) would help give those split ends a new lease on shine. The poppy colour of her V-neck outfit elongates her neckline and intensifies her beautiful skin, which is a winning combination. Photos: Getty Images
Maria is the girl next door and vivacious vixen all rolled into one perfect lady! vip look USA 2 13.indd 2
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Balance is key to great hair. The right warm highlights and lowlights would better enhance her complexion. The coppery took-foiloff-too-soon shade at the front hairline is a big no-no for making blondes look natural. Avoid going too chunky with lowlights, so 1990! You can achieve depth and dimension without having such a huge contrast between highs and lows as well as giving off the appearance of being born with it. Ash shades give depth and yellows can lend brightness. She needs more layers to resuscitate some life back into her hair. Layers are essential in framing the face correctly. Too long, they make her round face look elongated and saggy. The gold dress complements her gorgeous blush skin. Now, please pair them up with some much needed hair therapy.
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Oâ€™Dell is a reporter and anchor, actress, hostess, emcee... and simply fab. looks
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I love how bold she is. Once her natural hair grows in a little, I would like to see her hair texture and give her an awesome haircut to accentuate it. Think softer and feminine cut, a la Halle Berry. This would help move the focus on her complete presentation, as opposed to the severity of style. OYA has a dramatic Mahogany shade series that would compliment her nutmeg skin tone and brighten those captivating eyes. Imagine a medium chocolate brown blended with a red velvet undertone. Creamy, rich, yet balanced throughout. A vivid and deep colour would help yield to an overall complete style. Ladies, never matchymatchy makeup with dress and accessories… too much! The sapphire blue looks great with her skin tone, but pick one and go with it! She would be better with a subtler, natural cat eye and bold lips. It’s ok to be bold, just choose your best attributes to do so.
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Athlete, reporter and TV host... is there anything she can’t do? looks
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Giddy-up a go-go
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Extensions lend length, as well as extreme hues. “The rainbow trend is getting stronger each season—women want real colour!”-Leonel Rodriguez and Julian Macias, Farouk Systems IMAXTree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
best-behaved specimen strains to break its tether and run free and wild. When the ponytail moves into the womanly realm, it takes on a playful glamour that can lighten up any look. The career girl in a fierce business suit seems hipper and more confident with a ponytail, ready to confront any glass ceiling. The ponytail can keep fashions which verge on the matronly, a full-on sequin diva evening drag, for instance, feeling young and even downright sassy. The modern pony is more than just a generic pull-back with an elastic band. To keep your pony fashion-forward, try mixing it up, front to back. Backcomb a bit to build height at the crown, and consider a fringe – either straight, asymmetric or side-swept – versus a simple flat parting. Stephanie Kocielski for John Paul Mitchell Systems suggests JPMS Sculpting Foam and Extra-Body Finishing Spray
Ponytails rock from haute to hip-hop and are a hair wardrobe classic, regardless of the length of your natural locks. Are you ever too grown-up for a pony? Hope not.
he ponytail is a perennial, always fresh. It’s perhaps one of the most versatile of do’s, whether DIY or salon-styled. For women with long, monolength hair, a pony can begin as an act of desperation (bad-hair-day, crazy-busy, over-scheduled) but then transcend into a sublime style statement with just a few slick moves. For a woman with shorter locks, a clip-on pony can switch it up for new versatility in a flash. The magic of the ponytail is its mixed message of chic self-control. It is, first and foremost, the coif of the schoolgirl, suggesting the restraint of nubile unruliness. Like all ponies, even the
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a flat-iron, like the FHI Heat EPS Black Diamond Digital Ceramic Styling Iron and sweep back into a coated band. For an elegant evening out, add gloss with shine drops. If it's a touch of Texas you're lookng for, give it a little giddy-up with just a touch of backcombing at the centre-back. Another decisive style element is whether the tail itself is worn forward, cascading over one shoulder, or centred back between the shoulder-blades. Texture it up or sculpt a glam curl. Experiment with a transparent colour swatch in the centre of the tail for a sophisticated switch, and play with different effects for the ends, from a blunt-cut to girly ringlets. It’s feminine and flirty, but never fussy. Happy trails. Today’s ponytail is more than just a functional work-horse. Voluptuous waves approaching 'faux-hawk' status add body and drama above the tousled, herringbone-braided pony.
Alice + Olivia
Altitude always equals attitude when styling a ponytail.
to create body and lift. Claudio Lazo’s ponytail forecast for summer through the end of 2013 embraces the two opposite ends of the spectrum: one is the casual, sand and sun inspired fishtail or herringbone-braided ponytail. A second option is the more polished, city-girl 'high-tail' pony which – according to the rules of dressage – is anchored using the tops of the ears as a reference point. To create a boho braid, run a hairbrush lightly over the length to loosen and soften the look, and, for glam, mousse the top for added height. The new generation of mousse formulas, developed to be used with a blow dryer, avoid the crispy-crunchy 'mousse abuse' of air-drying mousse circa 1990 – think Bon Jovi! The 'high-tail' is the upbeat pony at its bounciest and perkiest, because it’s set high in the saddle for a youthful high-energy feel. For a moodier, more relaxed vibe, anchor a low-down pony at the nape of your neck. Create a silken finish by first smoothing hair from roots to ends with
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Free-style Stylemakers As part of their commitment to discover and nurture up-and-coming talent, ghd hosted a pop-up shoot to celebrate the launch of the fantastic ghd eclipse, its new generation styler. ghd UK 2 13.indd 2
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The freestyle pop-up shoot by ghd is the first of its kind in the UK.
Moodboards created by stylists displayed on the free-style 'inspiration wall'.
o celebrate the launch of eclipse, the revolutionary new styler, ghd hosted a unique 'free-style' pop-up shoot for talented young stylists from around the UK. The shoot took place at the Village Underground Warehouse in Shoreditch, East London, a dramatially raw urban space in the heart of one of the capitals most design-led districts. Called 'ghd eclipse: exposed,' the team behind the brand invited thirty young hairdressers, or ‘stylemakers’ to discover and celebrate the launch of its new ghd eclipse styler. With a backstage buzz and hype that could easily have been mistaken for London or New York Fashion Week, the studio was fully equipped with a team of professional make-up artists and an ‘inspiration wall’.
Music DJ Dom Cheung ensured that stylists remained in the rhythm-zone and their catering and refreshment needs were fully met courtesy of Meat Liquor, London. Each of the stylists was challenged to create a truly transformational look using ghd eclipse on a model they had brought along. Support was on hand from session styling mentors and a team of make-up artists to complete the look. Then each of their models were captured by a leading on-site fashion photographer. Session stylist and ghd creative director Zoe Irwin was joined by Kenna and the ghd art team, who, as well as working on their own models, ensured that guest stylists had all the support they needed. “I’ve never seen anything like this in the industry before,” said Zoe. “What a great way to harness emerging talent. The vibe was high-energy and very exciting. The guys really appreciated the chance to completely do their own thing with eclipse and will really benefit from the profileraising opportunities of getting their work published.”
Stylists also got an insight into the technical aspects of post-production.
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Wicked Glam The latest Guess sunglasses recently launched from Vision Optometrists. Inglot Freedom System Single Mirror Eyeshadow Palette, Eyeshadow 354, will add instant glamour and sparkle to your eyes. Get irresistible lips with the Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Instinct lipstick. WeWood watches, available from Smacs.co.za are made out of 100 percent wood, lightweight and hypo-allergenic. Dedicated to all Coco Mademoiselle fragrance lovers, the iconic Chanel bottle is now available in a 200 milliliter spray bottle. Choose your mood with O.P.I Nail Lacquer in shades Black Onix and Pink Friday. Giorgio Armani SĂŒ combines an inflection of three accords; blackcurrant nectar, modern chypre and light musk. Create a smokey effect on the eye using Stila Jewel Eye Shadow in Black Diamond. Catwalk: http://afi.sdr.co.za/Grapevine
Goth or glamorous?
Soft pink or jet black. Thereâ€™s a colour and fragrance to suite every mood. accessories
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the new natural
Wella Professionals celebrates the 1st anniversary of IllumIna Color by delivering the next generation of 11 new luminous sheer shades. With colour so real, it‘s the new natural! more details in the trade soon.
it’s a fact: 8 out of 10 stylists agree that IllumIna Color gives them the most natural-looking colour results they’ve ever seen.* /wellasouthafrica
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* Based on survey with 218 hairdressers using IllumIna Color in Europe, fielded in January 2013.
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Use the Dermalogica Skinperfect Primer SPF 30 to smooth away fine lines, brighten and prime for flawless skin and to prepare for make-up application. The Payot Elixir oil repairs, nourishes, softens and beautifies the body, face and hair, while ensuring long lasting protection against drying and dehydration. Yves Rocher Global Anti-Ageing Day Cream promotes firmer, smoother and radiant skin. Smooth and tone the skin while reducing the appearance of wrinkles with Perricone MD Formula 15 Face Firming Activator. Skin Ceuticals Phloretin CFâ„˘ represents a new class of preventive and corrective topical antioxidant treatment with patent pending breakthrough technology combining the broad-range power of phloretin with vitamin C and ferulic acid. A cleanser and toner in one product, the Skin Regimen Duo Cleanser is formulated to maximise the sense of comfort, moisture and protection. Skin Regimen Night Renewing Gel is an intensive exfoliating night gel mask to reduce wrinkles and maximise the action of boosters and creams. Continue the sense-awakening experience with Chanel Coco Noir Moisturizing Body Lotion.
Beat the hand of time with these anti-aging potions and face firming favourites. 23
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Deep-cleanse and purify oily skin with the Dermal Clay cleanser from Dermalogica. The non-foaming, fragrance free Paula’s Choice Close Comfort Shave Gel creates a smooth shave and protects skin from razor burn. Paula’s Choice Lip and Body Treatment Balm soothes dry, chapped skin and lips. The Decléor Soothing Aftershave Fluid is an ultra-light, non-greasy aftershave care with essential oils to soothe razor burn, eliminate feelings of discomfort due to shaving and rebalance the skin by reducing excess sebum. The new Bleu de Chanel Deodorant Stick provides instant freshness, lasting protection and leaves an intense scent on the skin. Carolina Herrera 212 Men NYC is an addictive woody, floral and musk fragrance. A modernised take on the Eau de Cologne, the Armani/Privé Eau de Jade bursts with aromatic scents of citrus and Calabrian Bergamot. Restore very dry skin to a moderate level of moisture with the Elemis S.O.S Survival Cream.
A body care routine to soothe shaving irritation and promote a smooth complexion while smelling irresistible. 25
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The ultimate male style icon of our times, Saint David’s hairography has been as versatile as his left foot. The jury is still out on which is his best creation… Gary Kelly
he man who has defined the link between fashion and football has announced his retirement from the professional soccer scene. His footballing career has ran in tandem with this profile as a fashionista crowned by his two decades of chameleon-like hair transformations. From long, glossy, blonde locks to the most severe of number one buzz-cuts, David has experimented with just about every style, often driving forward the popularity of certain men’s hair trends that would perhaps otherwise have stayed hidden in the wings. Maybe the most controversial was those braids, especially when one poor lad got excluded from school for copying his footballing hero! Anna Chapman from Trevor Sorbie
still can’t understand what all the fuss was about: “That was and still is a great look for guys. It has a real street/tribal feel to it. This is just one of Beckham’s many styles that show that guys can really experiment with their looks while remaining masculine.” Much earlier in his career, back in the 90s, David opted for the overgrown disconnected fringe, nicknamed 'The Curtains', which is enjoying something of a revival at the moment. Although Rae Palmer likes the look, she does feel there are some recommendations to consider: “Nowadays, only the very young and trendy can pull off this look, and then only as an ironic nod to the 90s. Layering needs to be fairly grown out for the look really to work.” Always in touch with his metrosexual side, David was never afraid to experiment with
Hair by Beckham
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styles that might have been dubbed as overly feminine. As a colour specialist, Karine Jackson has an opinion on that sun-kissed “love it or hate it” Goldilocks look: “It may be a bit high-maintenance for some fellas, but blonde is always great for summer. David went a bit too blonde in my opinion. He should have stayed within 3 shades of his natural colour to get a more credible effect.” One of many on the professional football field to opt for the Mohawk, David evidently maintained the advantage of ensuring that his was always professionally tweaked: “Although this is probably the Beckham look which is most lowmaintenance, the risk is always that clients will give themselves the DIY treatment to try and keep it in shape,” explains Ken Picton. David’s professional footballing career may have come to an end, but there’s no doubt that his second job as an international fashion icon is set to continue for the foreseeable future.
Beckham retires over 20 years after playing his first professional match with Manchester United in 1992: two decades that have seen him rise through the ranks of football stardom. On the way, he achieved the phenomenal success of being the first English player to help bring his team to victory through winning the league title in no fewer than four countries. He gained his first English cap in 1996 by playing for his national team at the age of just 21, then going on to remain England captain for over six years.
Never one to shy away from the spotlight, David Beckham has also been experimental in his ideas about his hair, popularising styles which may otherwise have passed us by.
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Timeless Collection Trevor Sorbie teamed up with London based hairstylist Adam Szabo to create a colourful and daring collection.
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â€œThe collection was inspired by everything beautiful around me, things that I see every day.â€?
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“Sharp, blunt and clean cuts mixed with classic techniques and modern flicks achieve timeless looks.”
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Bold and striking colours of red, pink and white make these styles dramatically eye catching. Hair: Adam Szabo Photography: Orsolya Luca Fashion Stylist: Andrea Gonczy Make-up Artists: Bernadett Titkos and Caroline Sims
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Hair becomes an architectural challenge. Stretching the limits of design, couture stunts. Objective: creativity, moulded forms, marbled weaving, textured materials. The tendency is suppleness, the concept is contemporary. Dazzling research: ArtHairdressing. Capelli come sfida architettonica. Nuovo confine del design, acrobazia couture. Obiettivo creatività. Forme plastiche, intrecci marmorei, texture materiche. L’indole è duttile, l’idea contemporanea. Ricerca folgorante: ArtHairdressing. Haare als architektonische Herausforderung. Neue Design-Grenzen und Couture-Akrobatik. Kreativität ist das Ziel. Plastische Formen, marmorierte Zöpfe, substanzielle Textur. Geschmeidiges Wesen und eine zeitgenössische Idee. Schillernde Forschung: ArtHairdressing. Des cheveux tels des défis architecturaux. La nouvelle frontière du design, de l’acrobatie faite couture. Objectif créativité. Des formes statuaires, des tresses marbrées, des textures de matières. Le caractère est ductile, l’idée est contemporaine. Recherche fulgurante : ArtHairdressing. Cabellos como desafío arquitectónico. Nueva frontera del design, acrobacia couture. Objetivo creatividad. Formas plásticas, entrelazados marmóreos, texturas matéricas. La índole es dúctil, la idea contemporánea. Búsqueda deslumbrante: ArtHairdressing
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Hair: Brian & Sandra Smith/Photo: David Byun/Make-up: Aeriel Dâ€™andrea/Styling: Rod Novoa
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2013/08/13 9:12 AM
Hair: Richard Ashforth and Saco Creative Team/Photo: David Oldham/Make-up: Maxine Leonard/Styling: Serena Gill
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Movie Coiffure. Effetti scenici. Allure cinematografica, disconnessioni 3D. I volumi si scompongono, l’impatto è avanguardista. Nuova programmazione. Film-Coiffure. Szenische Effekte. Kino-Stil. 3-D Trennungen. Die Volumen brechen, die Wirkung ist Avantgarde. Es muss neu programmiert werden. Hair: Richard Ashforth and Saco Creative Team/Photo: David Oldham/Make-up: Maxine Leonard/Styling: Serena Gill
Movie Coiffure.Theatrical effects. Cinematographic
allure, 3D disconnections.Volumes are deconstructed,
the impact is avant garde. New designs. Movie Coiffure. Effets de scène. Looks de grand écran et déstructurations 3D. Les volumes se décomposent, l’impact se veut avant-gardiste. Nouvelle programmation. Movie Coiffure. Efectos escénicos. Allure cinematográfico, desconexiones 3D. Los volúmenes se descomponen, el impacto es vanguardista. Nueva programación.
Hair: Richard Ashforth and Saco Creative Team/Photo: David Oldham/Make-up: Maxine Leonard/Styling: Serena Gill
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Hair: Nadege Faverais @ Robert Masciave Art Team/Photo: Irena Eastington/Make-up: Bella Simonsen
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Hair and photo: Jake Thompson - 2013 Naha Avant Garde finalist
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2013/09/17 3:18 PM
Hair: Brian & Sandra Smith/Photo: David Byun/Make-up: Aeriel Dâ€™andrea/Styling: Rod Novoa
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Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas - 2013 Naha Master Hairstylist of the Year finalist/Photo: Babak
moda design 436 OK.indd 8
2013/09/17 10:09 AM
Hair: Alexander Callegari Gavidia - Peru â€“ The Style Master 2013 International Contest finalist
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Hair: Bree Davie & Alfie Booth @ Trevor Sorbie/Photo: Russ Burton/Make-up: Rene Metcalfe/Styling: Charlie Robinson & Lily Winiarska
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2013/08/13 9:15 AM
Donne-replicanti, Bladerunner 2013. La verità è nei capelli, in versione originale. Linguaggio alternativo, colore coraggioso. Rosso riflettente o nero underground. Anatomia di forme. Frauen-Roboter, Bladerunner 2013. Die Wahrheit steckt in den Haaren, in der ursprünglichen Version. Alternative Sprache und mutige Farbe. Reflektierendes Rot oder schwarzer Untergrund. Anatomie der Formen. Femmes-cyborg,
Bladerunner 2013. La vérité est dans les cheveux, en version originale. Le langage est alternatif, la couleur courageuse. Roux réfléchissant ou noir subway. L’anatomie des formes. Mujeres-replicantes, Bladerunner 2013. La verdad está en el cabello, en versión original. Lenguaje alternativo, color audaz. Rojo reflectante o negro underground. Anatomías de formas.
Women-androids, Bladerunner 2013.The truth lies in the hair, in its original version. Alternative language. Courageous colour. Reflecting red or underground black.The anatomy of forms.
Hair: Frank Apostolopoulos @ Biba/Photo: Andrew O’Toole/Make-up: Kylie O’Toole/Styling: Leticia Dare
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Purity Hair: Jo Bellamy/Photo: Karla Majnaric/Make-up: Isabella Schimid/Styling: Alicia Doust
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2013/08/13 9:15 AM
Hair: Ludovic Beckers and the SankĂŠ Artistic Team/Photo: Giel Domen
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45 2013/08/13 9:16 AM
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Hair: Cliff Chun Kit Cheung - Hong Kong â€“ The Style Master 2013 International Contest finalist
Mary Shelley revival.An undercurrent of agitation and severe
harshness in the ashen make-up. Perfectly matching the nun-like austere bob. Hair that lets underlying passio.
Hair: Christophe Gaillet/Photo: Eric Ouaknine/Make-up: Anne Arnold/Styling: Etienne Jeanson
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Glowing effect. Colour that flows, absorbs, highlights. Totalising or geometric brushstrokes.
Always super-brilliant. Flashy trends.
Hair: Caterina Di Biase for Heading Out/Photo: Andrew O’Toole/Make-up: Kylie O’Toole/Styling: Andrew Zumbo
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Glowing effect. Colore che scivola, accoglie, evidenzia. Pennellate totalizzanti o geometriche, comunque iperbrilliant. Lampi di tendenza. Glühender Effekt. Eine Farbe die fließt, strahlt und betont. Totalisierende oder geometrische Pinselstriche, immer super brillant. Ein erleuchtender Trend. Effet éclatant. La couleur glisse, accueille, souligne. Des traits de pinceau totalisateurs ou géométriques, dans tous les cas, hyper brillants. Des éclairs de tendance. Glowing effect. Color que resbala, acoge, destaca. Pinceladas totalizadoras o geométricas, en cualquier caso hiperbrillantes. Destellos de tendencia.
Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional/Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Global Ambassadors: Tyler Johnston and Lesley Lawson (Colour)/Photo: Sabine Liewald/Make-up: Loni Bauer/Styling: Ingo Nahrwold
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Ar chi te c tu re
Hair: Anne Veck for Anne Veck Salons/Photo: Barry Jeffery/Make-up: Ewa Pietra/Styling: Kate Jeffery
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2013/09/17 10:11 AM
Hair: John Gillespie and Catherine Scobie Photo: Jack Eames/Make-up: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith/Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
Hair: Christophe Gaillet/Photo: Eric Ouaknine Make-up: Anne Arnold/Styling: Etienne Jeanson
Hair: Alexander Callegari Gavidia - Peru â€“ The Style Master 2013 International Contest finalist
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Hair: Kevin Kahan/Photo: Andrew Oâ€™Toole/Make-up: Victoria Baron/Styling: DesirĂŠe Lederer
moda design 436 OK.indd 20
2013/08/13 9:19 AM
Crochet Hair: Janer Stewart @ Angels/Photo: Andrew Oâ€™Toole/Make-up: Victoria Baron/Styling: Clare Frith
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Hair: Sharon Blain/Photo: Israel Rivera/Make-up: Rachel Montgomery/Styling: Emma Cotterill/Products: Goldwell
moda design 436 OK.indd 22
2013/08/13 9:20 AM
Like a tattoo. Cangiante nel movimento. Personalità multipla, dinamismo décor. Tra le linee, altre forme. Sorpresa modaiola, libertà prospettica. Wie ein Tattoo. Changierend in der Bewegung. Multiple Persönlichkeit, Dynamik-Kulisse. Zwischen den Linien existieren andere Formen. Trendige Überraschung, perspektivische Freiheit. Comme un tatou. Changeant dans le mouvement. Une personnalité multiple, un dynamisme décoratif. Entre les lignes, d’autres formes. Une surprise fashionista, une liberté en perspective. Like a tattoo. Cambiante en el movimiento. Personalidad múltiple, dinamismo decor. Entre líneas, otras formas. Sorpresa a la moda, libertad de perspectiva.
Like a tattoo. Iridescent in its movement. Split personality, dynamic décor. Other forms between the lines. Fashionista surprise. Perspective freedom.
Hair: Jakub Ziemirski - Poland/Finalist, The Style Master 2013 International Contest
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Hair: Anne Veck for Anne Veck Salons/Photo: Barry Jeffery/Make-up: Ewa Pietra/Styling: Kate Jeffery
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2013/08/13 9:20 AM
Above and below Hair: Nicholas French - 2013 Naha Avant Garde finalist Photo: Roberto Ligresti
Hair: Franรงois Mazeau/Photo: Jules Egger
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Coiffure-grattacielo. Unisex alternativo. Capelli come accenti musicali, melodie personalizzabili. Si sale nella scala dei valori, si orchestra il nuovo. Coiffure-Wolkenkratzer. Alternativer Unisex. Haar als musikalische Akzente, anpassbare Melodien. Man steigt in der Werteskala nach oben, dirigiert das Neue. Coiffure-gratte-ciel. Unisexe original. Des cheveux tels des signes musicaux, des mélodies personnalisables. On monte dans l’échelle des valeurs, l’on réorchestre. Coiffure-rascacielos. Unisex alternativo. Cabellos como acentos musicales, melodías personalizables. Se sube en la escala de valores, se prepara lo nuevo.
Hair: Ceri Cushen @ Robert Masciave Art Team/Photo: Irena Eastington/Make-up: Bella Simonsen
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Skyscraper-coiffure. Unisex alternative. Hair as a musical beat, with bespoke melodies. The pitch of values rises, orchestrating something new.
Hair: Kieran Harris for Heading Out Hair & Beauty/Photo: Karla Majnaric/Make-up: Naomi Manning/Styling: Elaine Marshall
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Hair: Charlie Price - 2013 Naha Master Hairstylist of the Year finalist/Photo: Melanie Watson
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dualism Hair: Janer Stewart @ Angels/Photo: Andrew Oâ€™Toole/Make-up: Victoria Baron/Styling: Clare Frith
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Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas - 2013 Naha Master Hairstylist of the Year finalist/Photo: Babak
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2013/08/13 9:23 AM
Hair: X-Presion/Photo: Gustavo L贸pez Ma帽as/Make-up: Laura Del Muro/Styling: Carol Gamarra
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e x c l u s i v e ly at y o u r l ' o r ĂŠ a l p r o f e s s i o n n e l h a i r d r e s s e r
2013/08/13 9:28 AM
Tool Savvy With the impressive innovation in technology there is no shortage of styling products and tools that perform better than ever. Local and international stylists share their favourite products, preferred styling tools and reveal their secret product cocktails.
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as sists link
With creativity running rampant, inspiration around every corner, and increasingly savvy clients, there is no shortage of styling products that perform better than ever! Marie Scarano
airdressers obviously have many skills. They are colourists, who have truly come into their glory with the development of innovative, safe, and easier to use hair colour products with spectacular palettes and techniques. The cutters often set trends with celebrities – like Mia Farrow, Farrah Fawcett, or Jennifer Aniston – that can define up to a decade. Lastly, there are the stylists who bring it all together, breathing life into the colour and cut. Often the salon professional does it all, and must bring together a game plan that ties in colour and cut, for the soccer mom, red carpet celebrity, or model in his or her chair. We asked some top stylists to reveal their favourite go-to products for a variety of styles.
Apparently, many of the top stylists we talked to are absolute lushes when it comes to styling products, blending, mixing and talking about layering as if they were concocting Tequila Sunrises! It seems styling product cocktails also loosen tongues, as Leonel Rodriquez and Julian Macias from Farouk System reveal their once 'secret cocktail' of Biosilk Glazing Gel and CHI Straight Guard, because it leaves hair shining brightly with no frizz. Even L'Oréal Professionnel Artist Pepper Pastor imbibes now and again. “I
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Patrick Kallo for Farouk Systems
TEXTURE AND EXTREMES
Texture is perhaps the most spectacular trend in editorial and avant garde hairdressing. Allen Ruiz resorts to a cocktail of Aveda Pure Abundance Style Prep for a weightless foundation, followed by Aveda Volumizing Tonic for added control and texture. He then finishes with Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion on top for a roughed-up finish. When it comes to cutting-edge texture, Diane Stevens says her go-to product is Sebastian Molding Mud for smoothing frizz or Sebastian Microweb Fiber for a messy yet defined short crop. Extreme ends call for extreme measures, so Diane uses Sebastian Liquid Steel for an off-the-charts Mohawk. Stephanie Kolcielski crosses the gender gap for extreme styling, “Paul Mitchell's Mitch Hardwired can take hair to new levels you never
“Choose the right styling products to get that bespoke look for your client.” knew existed.” Style Sexy Hair Play Dirty gives Nadirah Volpe's the versatile she craves. “I can use it for control to get hair sleek and smooth, to piece out hair, polish ends or for texture.” When on stage, Simon Miller takes KMS California's gravitydefying Hairstay dry extreme® to lock any style into place!
STRAIGHT INTO STYLE ColorProof
Goldwell Photo: Babak
love combining L'Oréal Professionnel Fresh Dust and L'Oréal Professionnel True Grip, in that order,” she enthuses, “this combo absorbs any oil and gives hair crazy lift and volume.” John Simpson also has a tried and tested recipe for Goldwell® StyleSign® Hair Care Cocktails to add life and volume to fine or limp strands.
Diane Stevens of the Nioxin Design Team suggests Nioxin Rejuvenating Elixir for smoothing fine hair while allowing natural movement. Stephanie Kolcielski jump-starts straight hair in the dossier
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wash house with Super Skinny Daily Shampoo and Treatments to tame coarse and rebellious hair. Others make protecting hair a priority, especially when resorting to heated tools. Farouk Systems CHI 44 Iron Guard and CHI Keratin Silk Infusion protects hair to leave it shining. Heggy Gonzalez claims, “Aveda Smooth Infusion Style Prep and Smooth Infusion Glossing Straightener are great for blowing out the hair.” KMS California National Technical Trainer Simon Miller advises, “Tamefrizz® de frizz oil and Tamefrizz® smoothing lotion are musts because they keep hair from getting frizzy and take away the need to follow up with a flat iron.”
Short or long, up or down, elaborate or simple, natural or sculpted – any combination or all of these – the possibilities are endless.
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UPDOS AND DON'TS
Farouk Systems' Leonel Rodriquez and Julian Macias, hairdressers to beauty queens, share trade secrets, saying, “We just can't live without Biosilk Spritz Spray to prep hair, CHI Pliable Polish to define the shapes, CHI Royal Treatment Ultimate Control Spray for the ultimate long-lasting staying power, finishing with CHI Rapid Shine and our CHI Digital 1 Curling Iron, which lets us create any shape we want.” Nadirah Volpe says, “Big Sexy
Hair Powder Play volumises and texturises, while completely disappearing into hair, giving instant lift and texture, and eliminates the need for backcombing.” A real advantage! Although 'messy updos' are the top trend now, classic looks will always be requested. This is why Pepper Pastor keeps L'Oréal Professionnel Perfect Shimmer on hand for preventing flyaway hairs and Maurice den Exter turns to CHI Pliable Polish for shine and a finishing touch.
Everyone would agree that curls and waves are perhaps hair's very raison d'etre, whether they be long, sexy tresses, intricate updos, or bubbly bobs. Hollywood blockbusters, like The Great Gatsby, have put glamorous vintage finger waves back in style. All these styles are open to interpretation, but generally curly hair requires some taming and the keyword is definition. In fact, JPMS VP of Education Stephanie Kolcielski swears by the Full Circle Leave-In Treatment to both hydrate and detangle, followed by Curls Twirl Around to eliminate notorious frizz. “I'm obsessed with Matrix Design Pulse Loosely
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Defined,” confesses Ammon Carver, “you get the curl definition and separation of a gel, but the touchability and softness of a cream. Amazing!” Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Styling Allen Ruiz and Heggy M. Gonzalez, Aveda Hair Colour Purefessional agree on Aveda Be Curly Style Prep for frizz-free, shiny, touchable hair. You should also consider the BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl Machine to create smooth curls with direction control, time and temperature settings. Waves trending now are either beachy or vintage, but perhaps beachy is more versatile. Sexy Hair Master Artist, Nadirah Volpe, opts for Healthy Sexy Hair Soy Renewal Beach Spray, as the sea salt gives hair perfect separation and enhances waves, while the Argan Oil keeps hair soft and moisturised. KMS California's Simon Miller opts for Curlup wave foam, followed by a spritz of Hairplay sea salt spray to create 'an amazing lived-in look'.
MAKE IT LAST
You and your client both want to keep your creation looking good for as long as possible. Each professional hairspray formula targets a specific need. Do you really need the strongest hold available or will a softer long-lasting hold do? If you live in Arizona or New Mexico, chances are you can forego humidity resistance properties. Think length and look. Manga or Sofia Vergara? Matte or glossy? Concoct your own cocktail. The important thing is that you are in charge. You are
“Curls,straight, texture, updo, extreme, find what you need.”
1 Matrix Opti Effects It is a collection that offers an advanced portfolio with a wave to fit every client’s needs. Opti.smooth, Opti.care, Opti.color, Opti.curl, Opti.thermic – there is something for everybody with tousled waves, frizz free curls, and even smooth blow outs! 2 Rusk Being Sexy What started out as Being Sexy Hair Spray is now a full-range of hair care and styling products, each of which features a unique blend of ingredients to deliver voluptuous volume, tousled texture and seductive shine for 'uninhibited hair'. Choose among the Shampoo and Conditioner, the Gel, Argan Oil (for extra shine), Hairspray, Mousse (for defining waves and curls), and Cream (for sexy texture). 3 Paul Mitchell Extra-Body Finishing Spray No ordinary hair spray, this product fights frizz, adds shine and secures even hard-to-hold hair. The added value is that it provides a bodifying boost so hair looks and feels thicker, thanks to panthenol and hydrolysed wheat protein in the formula. Used as a finishing touch, it also dries instantly without flaking or stickiness. 4 ColorProof PowerSculptTM Hard Hold Gel Remarkably, here is a stretchable hard hold gel designed exclusively for colour treated hair, delivering long-lasting hold, phenomenal strength and unstoppable style definition to allow you to create and maintain your style all day. Chromoveil™ and Heliogenol™ also absorb UVA/UVB rays to inhibit photooxidation and keep colour from fading. 5 Moroccanoil Frizz Control This innovative product contains a special, weightless blend of climate control factors that act as a unique shield, protecting hair under any weather condition while keeping it beautifully smooth, calm and controllable. It also counteracts the negative effects of chemical processing, heat styling and excessive brushing, which can leave hair damaged and full of kinks. 6 Aveda Control Force This hair spray offers long-lasting hold and up to 24 hours of defense from humidity for all hair types. Moreover, this finishing touch is fast-drying and nonflaking, so hair always looks its best. Plus, UV filters, antioxidants, and organic essential oils of Bulgarian lavender, bergamot, palmarosa, and vetiver give it a calming aroma. 7 TIGI BedHead On The Rebound TIGI's latest Bed Head relaunch of Recharge™ and Elasticate™ Shampoos and Conditioners also included superstylers. Straighten Out™ Straightening Cream and the product featured here, On The Rebound™, supercharges even the limpest curls with innovative curl recall technology, while providing thermal protection, fighting frizz, and moisturising hair to create serious shine. 8 Nioxin Bodifying Foam One of the seven styling products launched as part of the revolutionary NIOXIN® Volumizing Reflectives™ Professional Styling Line to help amp up the volume, texture and strength of fine hair. This extra-hold styling foam adds dimension and curl definition while adding shine, but with no product build-up. Sunscreens help prevent sun damage as well.
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Your clients rely on your professionalism, so you wouldn’t dream of relying on anything but some of the best professional tools available today.
hile a poor tradesman blames his tools, it is often true that 'a tradesman is only as good as his tools'. So, to attain the ultimate inspiration and professional results while ensuring the comfort, well-being and obviously, satisfaction of your clients, it really is necessary to make some basic investments in the best hairdressing tools the market can offer. Keep in mind brand names, quality materials, the latest technology. Sometimes spending money can save you money as well as time and client loyalty in the long run. Start with the basics, like the Kevin Murphy Texture.Comb. With its wide teeth and robust design, this gem is designed to keep texture and movement in hair, but with you calling the shots. It is perfect for use on unruly, curly hair and for styling dry hair. Paddle brushes are another staple in the hairdresser's drawer of tricks. Make sure it's nice and wide to help build body, like the Paul Mitchell Pro Tools 427 model. The ball-tipped bristles do a great job of detangling and massaging the scalp while the air-cushioned pad helps eliminate pull, making it more comfortable for whoever is sitting in your chair. Aiming for something that accents your green salon? Try Aveda's Wooden Paddle Brush made
of sustainably sourced wood. It even comes with a reusable hardshell case to help keep it clean and in good condition. Of course, part of keeping hair healthy is keeping it moisturised and protected from heat damage. So FHI Heat came up with black diamond infusion technology. When the innovative black diamond and ceramics interact, static electricity is eliminated and moisture is sealed in. The result is a highly-polished look in half the time. Less time means less heat, adding up to less damage to hair and happier clients!
THE CUTTING EDGE
Japanese forged steel is the secret ingredient in Cricket's Koi Professional Sheers. The ergonomic design also features a Hamaguri convex edge for precise cutting techniques and a tension knob to adjust the shears to all hair textures. The quiet comfort stopper also silences the shear and softens the cut to keep your snip-shy clients relaxed. We asked Rusk Educator Don Wyatt about the latest VG-10 Shears. He makes it sound so simple: “Straight blades are for cutting a straight line.” So far, so good! All the others? He explains, “Each texturising blade give a different effect: Alpha Blades gives hair a chunky texture on any hair type, Gamma Blades gives hair a soft, velvety texture, and Beta Blades are great for removing hair and texturising at the same time, especially on coarse, curly hair.” Don continues, “The beauty of using different texturising blades is that you can do the exact same cut and give it a completely different look and feel. When you have options, you become much more creative in your work.” That's the bottom line, isn't it? Options and creativity!
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Quality tools are your best allies behind the chair. 3
1. Aveda Wooden Paddle Brush: with extended bristles for comfort. 2. Rusk VG-Shears: five models for all your cutting needs. 3. Cricket Koi Shears: better balance and control. 4. Kevin.Murphy Texture Comb: for frizz-free freedom. 5. FHI Heat EPS速 Black Diamond Styling Iron: to moisturise and protect hair while styling. 6 Paul Mitchell Pro Tools Paddle Brush: detangles and massages the scalp.
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NEW SP STYLING
ULTRA MODERN AND SOPHISTICATED
Take your clientsâ€™ hair to a new level of flawless style with six precise, style-enhancing products for personalised, polished looks. www.wella.com
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2013/08/13 2013/06/28 9:27 4:08 AM PM
very stylist has that secret ‘potion’ or ‘magic wand’ that allows them to achieve wondrous things with their client’s hair. Johannesburg based stylists, Sean Cox and Annie Philippeos share their most loved products and tools to create gorgeous salon professional hair.
Two local stylists reveal their tricks of the trade, favourite products and tools they just can’t live without.
What are your preferred styling tools? Annie Philippeos, Pulse Brand Owner, Johannesburg A stylist is not a stylist without their tools. My number one tool has to be my hands, but my hairdryer comes in at a very close second, you name it and it can be created with a hair dryer. Sean Cox, Swept Salon Owner, Johannesburg I like the Veaudry Curling Wand because of its consistent curling capabilities and high quality chip that heats the blade of the tong all the way through. Parlux is my hairdryer of choice for even blowing power and heat that doesn't burn. I don't use straightening irons. Pin curl setting pins are an all-round winner for tonging, blow drying and sectioning.
Pulse Brand Owner, Johannesburg.
Name your favourite hairdryer of all time and why? Annie Philippeos, Pulse Brand Owner, Johannesburg The Parlux 3800 is my absolute favourite hairdryer. Its eco-friendly, ionic and ceramic and it also makes blow drying fast and easy. Sean Cox, Swept Salon Owner, Johannesburg The Parlux Power Light 385 hairdryer is the lightest, most powerful, yet smallest dryer I have ever worked with. It also has two different sized nozzles. The longer, narrower one allows me to be the fastest hair drier I know.
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COMING SOON! In depth step-by-step instructions on how to create the hottest cuts, styles and colours of the moment. Colour & Technique 2013 album is the MUST-HAVE business tool for every salon and hair professional. bc&t-advert.indd 1
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If you could design your perfect pair of scissors what elements would be important? Annie Philippeos, Pulse Brand Owner, Johannesburg The perfect pair of scissors would undoubtedly be rose gold plated with handles encrusted with diamonds. More realistically, they should be made from Japanese folded steel (carbon steel) and have balance, as well as a comfortable handle. Sean Cox, Swept Salon Owner, Johannesburg The quality of metal must obviously be of the highest grade to allow for sharpness of blade and many years of durability. I like a longer blade that allows me to be more precise in my cutting and able to cut larger sections in one slice, which gives a cleaner cut and allows it to last longer. I am not fussy about off-set or on-set, as long as the finger positioning doesn't cause undue stress on the wrist joint and thumb. What products do you rely on most? Annie Philippeos, Pulse Brand Owner, Johannesburg Styling aids are extremely important. They help make the hair more pliable and easy to work with. More importantly though is a professional shampoo and conditioner. Remember that you want your hair to shine. Nobody likes matte, flat and greasy looking hair. Sean Cox, Swept Salon Owner, Johannesburg I mostly rely on the Kérastase Nectar Thermique range and Elixir Ultime Oil. When styling, these two products allow for maximum heat protection, moisturising and manageability of hair. Healthy hair is manageable hair.
Can you reveal your secret product cocktails? Annie Philippeos, Pulse Brand Owner, Johannesburg Men; mix your favourite wax with a tiny bit of a harder gel to give you the hold you want, but maintain a look of soft texture. Ladies; never underestimate the power of a heat protector, mix it with a gloss to give shine, as well as much needed protection. Now, that’s all I’m willing to give away. A girl has to have some secrets. Sean Cox, Swept Salon Owner, Johannesburg I mix the Kérastase Elixir Ultime Oil with most of my men’s waxes. It gives the best finish to any gents cut. The others are a secret for a reason.
Swept Salon Owner, Johannesburg.
What do you think has been the most revolutionary product innovation? Annie Philippeos, Pulse Brand Owner, Johannesburg I’m completely blown away by the Reflection range from Kérastase. A Nobel Science Prize was awarded to the man who placed a positive and negative charge in one molecule. They have taken this technology and used it in hair care, which is amazing. Of course, we cannot forget the fastest growing hair care brand in the world at the moment, Moroccanoil, built by word of mouth. You can only be impressed by this luxurious range. Sean Cox, Swept Salon Owner, Johannesburg The new Micronized Polymer technology of the Kérastase Couture styling range is truly revolutionary. It allows for maximum duration of style with no greasiness, stickiness or flopping throughout the day.
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ESTETICA’S exclusive glimpse backstage in Milan, where the 2012 Wella ITVA winners brought 2013 trends to life.
Above: Fusion, just one of the 2013 trends announced at the 2012 Wella Professionals ITVA Awards, below.
ith the International Trend Vision Awards (ITVA), Wella Professionals continues in its quest to discover talented hairdressers and colourists of course, but also what truly inspires such creativity by taking the visual, and tactile aspects of hair fashion to the next level. What is it that transformed, which most likely originated in the human species as mere preening, to absolute art in more recent times. In fact, hairdressing today is a reflection of culture and time, hedonistically touching upon all our senses, but mostly upon that ever elusive sense of beauty.
THE SOUND OF COLOUR
The very music we hear evokes a mood within us through the media of melody (shape), timbre (colour), and arrangement (texture). So, what better theme could Wella Professionals have chosen as the theme of the 2013 edition of ITVA? Wella Professionals Global Creative Directors Eugene Souleiman for Care and Styling, and Josh Wood for Colour accepted the challenge of defining four characters who are all rooted in the world of music and for whom colour and sound are inextricably linked: Fusion and Decibel for SS 2013 and Echo and Allegra for AW 2013. As Wella Creative Director Reiner Sauter says, “I love seeing talent from all over the world. You give them a theme and they create their own interpretation of a style.” When the 2012 ITVA Young Talent Award winner Zhangjian Wang from China and Colour Award Winner Philip Ferreira from Canada met in Milan to work together on the photo shoot in cooperation with ESTETICA, it seemed obvious that Fusion – the trend embodying 'East meets West' – was destined to become their common ground.
Backstage shots of Philip Ferreira (above) and Zhangjian Wang (below) at the Wella-ESTETICA photo shoot in Milan.
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GEISHA COIF MEETS WESTERN COUTURE
Yet the concept of 'Fusion' brings to mind several connotations, like in music, where strains of jazz and rock came together to form hybrid sounds. Or in metallurgy, where two or more metals are melted to form a third more durable alloy. Or the concept of nuclear fusion, which generates an explosive energy. The ambitious team of Philip Ferreira and Zhangjian Wang came ready to take them all on, joining forces as the very personification of 'East meets West' as the ideas start to flow and 'fuse'. The mood boards speak of creating a new sophisticated and creative femininity, where Asian heritage journeys to the future to attain a timeless aesthetic: structured yet sexy, with intense pastels against a subtle foundation, deliberate yet random. Eclectic cultures clash in a maelstrom of creativity, twisting Eastern harmony and Western rhythms to set a new wave of energy into motion. The models and looks begin to take on a global edge. Inspiration is originally drawn from a traditional Geisha coif that is playfully coloured with peony pink, constructed and deconstructed, only to be reconstructed in an even more complex form with a loopy fringe. Another time the same classic look is totally undone and dip-dyed with turquoise before being shaped into a surprisingly symmetrical and textured mane. The couture is Western, simple and sophisticated, serving as a blank medium, reminiscent of white rice paper ready to absorb the elegant and impromptu strokes of Oriental ink drawings, with contours flowing graciously to evoke an urban vibe. The shoot revels in the creativity of two great artists from different corners of the globe who met halfway in Milan to share in this incredible experience. A North American colourist and a Chinese hair stylist coming together to share, learn, teach, and create new trends that combine futurism and folklore, traditional luxury and classic refinement. Fusion is now.
Above: Philip Ferreira, ITVA 2012 Colour Winner, is playfully reeled in by one of the models.
Asian experimental spirit and Western haute couture. Zhangjian Wang poses happily with a 'deconstructed' geisha in couture garb.
Hair: Zhangjian Wang and Philip Ferreira for Wella Professionals Photo: Nancy Fina Make-up: Jo Sanna @ HM Battaglia Styling: Paola Tamburelli Products: Wella Professionals Coordination: PMS by ESTETICA
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John Paul DeJoria
An exclusive interview in Los Angeles with John Paul DeJoria, the man at the helm of John Paul Mitchell Systems, about the past, present and future of this oneof-a kind company. Sergi Bancells
ctive, intense and committed to the hairdressing industry and the planet. Magnetic and accessible as ever, John Paul welcomes ESTETICA during a high-point in the history of his company. Many say your story is that of the 'American Dream'. What is it like thinking back to the beginning? When I think back to the 1980s, starting the business with $700 when our backer pulled out, it's amazing that we did it. However, in those days we had a conviction; meaning that we thought our products were different, one shampoo instead of two, a leave-in conditioner, and later, sculpting lotion – that if we told enough people about it, we would be in the re-order business. I didn't want to go in the selling business. A lot of people say, “I want to sell something.” My concept was to be good enough and unique enough that, if we could just last, people would like it and want to re-order because we had no advertising money and that's what happened. We were very lucky that we thought that way and it worked very well. Looking back over the past 30 years, which projects give you the greatest pleasure still today? Well, the first one is that we made it, starting a company with $700. Another high point that I remember was when we had been in business just two years and we were able to pay our bills on time for the first time. That was a huge turning point in our business – huge! Another one was when we did a major beauty show, in fact it was a big show that Paul was invited to do, and it was in London: the Alternative Hair Show. Now, you are not only a businessman, but also a philanthropist and a government adviser. In which role do you feel most comfortable these days? A combination of all of them. All three, philanthropy, business and helping governments in the world make it happen. So, in reality, my lifestyle is all three. For example, a few years ago when I went to Africa, I had a meeting with Nelson Mandela to discuss removing land mines. While I was there, I immediately had a meeting with the Paul Mitchell distributor and all the beauty salons. We did a big
Cyril, the name behind the name
During our interview, John Paul shared with ESTETICA a curious story about Paul Mitchell: “His name was Cyril T. Mitchell. Not Paul. When he was in England, before he came to the USA, a fellow he worked with suggested, 'Cyril isn't a great hairdressing name. Why don't you make your hairdressing name Paul?' So, he used Paul Mitchell as a hairdressing name. By the way, till the day he died, his legal name was always Cyril T. Mitchell.”
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show while we were there. Then I went with my wife and son into the jungle and did a photo shoot. I brought in orphans for the photo shoot from an orphanage that we have there, where we take care of all of them. So, I took care of philanthropy, the photo shoot for Paul Mitchell, and met with our Patron distributor while we were there, so it all worked out just fine. I never say that during these hours I do business. During these hours I do philanthropy, because it's all part of my lifestyle, with my family, my businesses, and my philanthropy all together. So, it tends to be difficult to organise your travels. Actually, it's kind of easy, because Paul Mitchell is in 90 countries throughout the world. Patron is in 120, and my philanthropy is in many of the countries I go to. So, when I'm there, I try and do it all. Like on my last trip, when I met you in Spain, I had already been to London. In both places we held press conferences about never testing on animals. So, that's a kind of philanthropy and we did business at the same time. Are you happy with the image of Paul Mitchell today, in the countries it's in, the salons, turnover? I'm very happy with what we're doing. Our business is growing every year, and so do our schools. We're very, very excited, and next year, we'll really make a giant leap. A huge leap. We're going into tools for the industry that are the next generation of tools â€“ like dryers and irons, not the ones we have today. We're working on that and aggressively going after hair colour, the best hair colour in the world. We never were quite there before, and now we are. So, we continue to have double-digit growth this year and the years to come, meaning somewhere between 10 percent and 100 percent. How should the global reach of the brand be balanced when the company is so big and how can it remain close to the hairdresser? Well, we do balance that out. The way we balance it out is that we have a reputation for being only in the professional beauty industry forever. How can it be forever? I put my shares in a trust that lasts 360 years. I have 352 years left on it. It will always stay as one and it can never leave the professional beauty industry with the Paul Mitchell name. That's how I set it up. So, we're here forever and to hairdressers, that means a lot. As you said in Madrid, it's not only committed to hairdressers, it's committed to animals. That's correct. We are committed to non-animal testing. We have never tested on animals and we never will. When we got bigger, we had enough clout and we had enough buying power to be in a position to ask all the people that we buy from not to test on animals, and give us that in writing. So, at
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least we can control that much, which is quite a bit. It's us and the next level. Can we control the levels after that? Of course not. Nobody can, but we can control the people we buy from. That we can do. What was the reaction of the Chinese government when you decided not to sell Paul Mitchell in China until they changed their animal testing regulations? Well, at first they couldn't believe it, because we're taking their money. So, they found it hard to believe that people do business this way. Yes, because we believe in it. I don't think the Chinese government meant to hurt. I think they were trying to save their own people, thinking it was necessary. It took them a long time to come to that conclusion and change the regulations. They couldn't be changed in two minutes. However we're committed to staying and working with the Chinese government, which we're doing right now, to try to get them to see that other types of testing â€“ chemical and in vitro testing machines â€“ are more accurate than testing on animals for the health of humans. We continue to work together with them. Is that more expensive or not? I don't think that would be more expensive, because you buy the machine just once. Animals have to be taken care of all the time. Even if it is a little more expensive in the beginning, in the long run it will be less expensive and more accurate. John Paul shines in his spacious and bright office at Century Park, Los Angeles.
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What has been the reaction of the Chinese – in terms of society, distributors…? We were there for over ten years. The salons we were selling to were very upset because they couldn't get Paul Mitchell any more, but they understood that we have to stand up for what we believe in. We are going to open up – more than likely – a school in China so we can at least have our products in the school, because if you have a school, you can bring products in. All the products will be made in the USA and they won't be tested because they're for a school, but we can't sell it to the people, because then they would have to test it on animals. We're going to do that while we try to change their thinking on animal testing. I think eventually we will succeed. The other point of interest is Europe, where it has been announced that the laws are changing. I think that's great. It's a fabulous thing, a great step in the right direction. Now, if they could take it one step further, that they don't test on animals and whoever you buy from doesn't test on animals like we do, that would be wonderful. If they can, it's two steps in the right direction, but this is a good step. It makes a statement. So, what is your stand on product testing? Any product that comes out I will test on myself. Other than of course a permanent wave I'm not going to test on myself. Those are chemicals, it's a slightly different story. Anything other than the chemicals, any other hair care product, I immediately test it on myself. Are you still involved in the development of new products? Yeah. I meet with our marketing department and our product development department to go over all the new products we're coming out with and what we're working on. As they develop them, they put them into my hands so I can test them. So, I'm very much involved, not just with the product, but also with the fragrances. I am the Chief Executive Officer of the company and I'm very involved. Will everything remain eco-sustainable, with products manufactured in the USA and recyclable packaging? We 're looking into possibly doing some manufacturing in Europe. We are looking at that right now, but mainly it's the United States of America for all of our wet products. Not curling irons and blow dryers. We get that overseas.
What about emerging markets like Russia and eventually Brazil, where many companies have already moved? Right now, we can ship from the United States to Brazil. Now, if it turns out that our business grows in South America in the years to come, we could always consider that. What I like about the United States is that we can control it. We can control the quality of the product right here, and we own some of the laboratories that we make it in. Let's talk about your partner Angus. How does his commitment with hairdressing education fit into corporate strategies? Well, when Paul and I started this company, Paul was a hairdresser, Paul Mitchell. He didn't do business, I didn't do hair. It was a perfect match. Even though I was in the beauty industry, I wasn't a hairdresser. Just the right combination to go into something together. His son grew up around a hairdresser and liked it. So, his son decided he
“Any Paul Mitchell product will be tested on me first.”
John Paul & Paul, two friends and a story that has left its mark in the history of hairdressing.
wanted to be a hairdresser. He went to all the best schools of hairdressing and advanced training and became not only a hairdresser, but a really great hairdresser, so that's what he contributes. Now Angus, because he is the second owner of the company, is on our board of directors. He provides his point of view as a hairdresser and that works out wonderfully. It all blends beautifully. In our Paul Mitchell Schools, the whole concept is to teach how to be a real good haircutter, hair colourist and hair stylist at the same time, but also about running a sound business. How important is it to have people like Angus, Robert, Takashi and Stephanie in the company? It's very important because we are in the hairdressing industry. So, why not have some of the greatest, most innovative hairdressers working with us? It just makes sense. We're a company that supports hair stylists, and grows with hairstylists, so it makes all the sense in the world to have hair stylists working close to us. It's important for them to be part of what we're doing. There on the inside and the outside, which is perfect. Hairdressers around the world need new ideas to develop their business. What are you proposing through the 'I'm Possible' concept? It's very easy. If you know that you are possible, it means that no matter what is going on, you'll
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figure a way around it. I'll give you an example. Maybe your business is down a little bit and you don't have as much money to spend on advertising. Well, you're possible. You can make it happen. Maybe you'll have to go out and get a flyer, a piece of paper that talks about your salon and your service and how good it is. Maybe the staff have to get a hundred of them each and go hand them to people on the street or put them on a car... there's a way to get around it. Maybe you have to talk to your customers more about, “Hey, we want to build our business. If you bring in somebody, you'll get 25 percent off on your next service”. By you being possible and knowing that there are other ways to do things, it means that no matter what happens, you're not going to suffer the consequences, you're going to be the cause. Most people say, “Well, that happened, there was nothing I could do about it”. Well, there is something you can do about it. Change your way of thinking. How else can you do it? Sharing information and looking around to see what's happening elsewhere... Yes! Sharing is the key. When we have our seminars, we share ideas that other salons have used to become successful. How do you get new customers? How do you get free advertising? How do you get local newspapers to come in an cover your salon for nothing, to do an editorial? We share all this information. History often shows us how great difficulty becomes great opportunity... like the brilliant story of Paul Mitchell's black and white bottles. Indeed! When we started the company, we could not afford colour. Black and white to screen a bottle was 2 cents a bottle; colour was 6 and a half, 7 cents. We didn't have the money so we went with black and white, and it turned out to be really great. Now we have a little bit of colour on our bottles, but it's predominantly black and white. So, this restriction turned out to be positive by making us unisex, out of necessity. We didn't have the money, and our black and white bottles appealed to men and women alike. It also turns out that black and white just jumps out at you and all because we didn't have any money! So, sometimes not having any money is good! Now, let's talk a little bit about the other businesses you are in. Well, one of them is Patron. It's all over the world in 120 countries and growing quickly in Europe. It's becoming very popular now. I started the company in 1989. It's a fabulous company, we have fun, and it's known as the number one premium tequila in the world. Like Paul Mitchell, we are proud of ownership: highest quality, environmentally friendly. Every Patron bottle
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Above: John Paul pitches black & white packaging.
– we do 25 million bottles a year – is recycled glass that we produce here, and we use as much recycled paper as we can in our packaging. So, it's like what we do with Paul Mitchell. John Paul Pet is another one. However John Paul Pet not only does not test on animals, it says on the bottle “Tested on humans first”. They test the product on me first. One example is flea and tick shampoo. It's tea tree flea and tick shampoo. We test on me first and I don't have any fleas or ticks. So, it must work! (Laughs). Other businesses that I'm in, whether it's the boating business, communication business, or energy businesses, they all follow the same thing and are very ecologically minded. I try to get involved in businesses that I can have pride in and that also gives back. Last but not least, ESTETICA would like you to share a message about the future for hairdressers around the world. Well, I look at this industry as growing and becoming better. If you look at the average salon, for example, in the United States, and in Europe as well, or in Asia, other countries in the world, there are more salons now that are classy salons, meaning that they look good and are learning how to run their businesses better. I see that more and more often. Let's take Europe for example, as well as obviously the United States, where they have had some real economic problems during the last couple of years. So, what do salon owners do? They learn how to run a better salon, how to be better business people, develop better business tactics, watch their dollars more closely, and do things to get other customers coming in. What people must realise is people did not stop coming to beauty salons. Very few people stopped. Which means the industry will always be here.
John Paul with ESTETICA publisher Roberto Pissimiglia and Michelle Thew, President of Cruelty Free International.
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Fu I tu res
“Education is the most powerful weapon to change the world” – Nelson Mandela.
SOS Children's Villages operates in 132 countries worlwide, helping 70 000 children across 208 villages and 533 different schools and education centres.
n November 2010, Schwarzkopf Professional started Shaping Futures, a worldwide charity initiative that sees Schwarzkopf Professional partnering with leading non-profit organisation SOS Children’s Villages and volunteer hairdressers, in order to introduce disadvantaged youth to the craft of hairdressing. Today, the programme is present in India, Latvia, Morocco, Peru, Brazil, Columbia and Vietnam. From the 12th of August to the 8th of September 2013, Shaping Futures took place in South Africa. Volunteers from Belgium, the Netherlands and South Africa trained 30 students in the SOS Children’s Village Ennerdale, Johannesburg. Shaping Futures believes that education and knowledge provide the best opportunity for a secure future. Hairdressing volunteers train underprivileged young adults in basic hairdressing skills. In the six week period these trainers taught the participating students a set of guidelines, developed together with Schwarzkopf Professional’s top partners, containing four modules: cutting, dressing, colour and form. At the end of the training each trainee got an official certificate as well as a start-up salon tool bag, including the basic hairdressing equipment and a start-up package of products. To further assist the students pave their way to a brighter future, they are given the opportunity to meet local salon owners taking them one step closer to their desire of securing a job in a salon. Simon Ellis, Director of the Global Professional Partner Services by Schwarzkopf Professional: “With our global network of hair professionals, our emphasis on training, and our pool of resources, we are in an ideal position to offer skills that can make a difference to the lives of aspiring hairdressers, whatever their backgrounds are. By teaching disadvantaged young adults in underdeveloped countries how to cut hair, we want to give them a new start in life and a lasting future.” “The strength of Shaping Futures is the cooperation between SOS Children’s Villages, Schwarzkopf Professional volunteers and local salons who create new employment
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oppurtunities”, says Nadja Malak, SOS Global Partner. SOS Children’s Villages as the world’s largest orphan charity and international nongovernmental social development organisation, has been active in the field of children’s rights, and committed to their needs and concerns since 1949. SOS Children’s Villages operates in 132 countries worldwide, helping 70 000 children across 208 villages and 533 different schools and education centres. The success of Shaping Furtures is already evident in countries such as Morocco, Peru, Brazil and Latvia. Many young women and men in undeveloped countries are now skilled in hairdressing and have the opportunity to live an independent life away from hardship. Shaping Furtures wants to roll out to more countries around the globe.
Trainers teach students a set of guidelines containing four modules: cutting, dressing, colour and form.
“The success of Shaping Furtures is already evident in countries such as Morocco, Peru, Brazil and Latvia.” shaping future.indd 3
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'nRide Rusk South Africa and ESTETICA SA supports Jason Hartman and the Rock â€˜n Ride 4 Rhino team on their quest to educate, and inform the nation on the plight of the rhino.
Rusk South Africa sponsored Jason Hartman and guests at the gala evening with generous hair product hampers.
ock â€™n Ride 4 Rhino is an ambitious conservation, community and communications project created by 2009 co-winner of Idols South Africa, Jason Hartman. Other members include Damien Mander, a former Australian Army Special Operations Sniper and founding director of the International AntiPoaching Foundation, and Dave Estment, ex-professional superbike racer, professional wildlife photographer and videographer, and founding trustee of the Wild Imaging Trust. The project entails an epic 15 000 kilometre motorcycle adventure around Southern Africa from April to September 2013. The purpose is to educate and inform, mobilise united action and raise R20 million to help fund the extensive equipment, manpower, resources and communication channels required to effectively combat the poaching scourge that is threatening our wildlife and our planet. As well as to support the upliftment of communities specifically in areas impacted by poaching and to provide a powerful communications mechanism via video, still images and internet platforms.
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“The brutal slaughter of our rhino makes this an indicator species to highlight the plight of lesser-known, but equally threatened species. ” Their goal is to create a culture of conservation and raise awareness of the fact that everything is inter-connected and that the collapse of one species can lead to the collapse of an ecosystem. The brutal slaughter of our rhino makes this an indicator species to highlight the plight of lesser-known, but equally threatened species. Together, the three partner organisation forms a holistic approach towards conservation and humanitarian projects, the two of which must go hand in hand if they are to be successful. To raise funds for their heroic journey, Rock ‘n Ride 4 Rhino hosted a gala event at the Maximillien restaurant in the Da Vinci Hotel, Sandton. Entertainment was provided by ‘The Jason Hartman Band’ and proceeds from the ticket sales assisted in alleviating the extensive
The Rock 'n Ride 4 Rhino team on their many visits to schools and venues around the country.
costs involved in educating and informing the nation. Rusk was eager to get involved and hosted a competition on the night where generous hair product hampers were won. Guests were also treated to Style Source magazines. Rusk and ESTETICA SA admire the efforts and contributions that Jason Hartman and his team are making to fight this battle and they have our full support.
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In association with industry charity HABB, The Fellowship For British Hairdressing returned to The Dorchester Hotel in London for one of the most important events of the hair industry’s calendar.
his is an event for which two major influences in British hairdressing join forces to celebrate their achievements while looking to the future to establish new goals, in an atmosphere of opulence and elegance at The Dorchester Hotel in London’s Park Lane. The Fellowship For British Hairdressing dedicated a part of the evening of its President’s Night to The Hair and Beauty Benevolent (HABB), the British industry’s most well known and hightly supported charity. Outgoing President, Mark Creed, warmly welcomed members and guests before going on to lead a presentation that promoted the importance of HABB and underlined the importance of its work. HABB President, Linda Evans, showcased the charity’s excellent work throughout the past year, before highlighting the fact that the work HABB does can benefit industry people of all ages and backgrounds and from all walks of life. “The importance of having a truly benevolent force in our industry needs to be instilled in the hearts and minds of everyone. In particular, we
President’s Night 2013 Distinguished guests from British hairdressing joined forces with industry supporters and manufacturers for the 2013 event.
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need to be engaging more with our up-and -coming young hairdressing stars if we are to continue to succeed in our work. They are the future of hairdressing, and so the future of HABB rests in their hands,” she said. Members and guests were invited to enter an interactive prize draw and play an entertaining version of ‘heads and tails’ which resulted in Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year and Fellowship Senior Vice President, Bruno Marc Giamattei, winning a year’s supply of champagne, which he kindly donated. Neville Hairdressing went on to win an iPad mini and Alan Howard, a runner-up prize. Through ticket donations and the raffle, Fellowship members managed to raise an additional £2 800. An excellent four-course dinner was followed by the ceremonial part of HABB’s proceedings, in which awards were given to those people who have made an outstanding contribution to the work of the charity. The Humanitarian Award was presented to Anthony and Pat Mascolo in recognition of the incredibly generous, on-going support they have given to HABB over many years. Two further awards were handed out this year: The President’s Award was presented to The Sassoon International Creative Team for their continued support and fundraising efforts and The Fundraising Award went to Alan d Hairdressing for their continued dedication to not only performing huge fundraising campaigns for HABB, but also for continuing to help raise awareness for the charity. The entertainment
began with magician and all-round funny man, Brian Jolly (right) who staged an outstanding performance of magic tricks, illusions and ‘psychic’ brainteasers. Before handing over his presidential chains of office to the new Fellowship President Errol Douglas MBE, Mark Creed expressed his gratitude to the Fellowship Council, extending thanks to each and every member for their input in taking the Fellowship’s brands to new limits. After introducing Errol Dougas MBE as ‘a hair supremo who has the Fellowship running through his veins,’ Chairman, David Drew invited Errol to the stage. Errol said: “Becoming President is just like growing up for me. I’m going to do my best to ensure that hairdressing created in this country is recognised on a global level. As an industry we need to focus on new talent and I am here to ensure that we do this. I’ve got a great future with the support of my two amazing Vice Presidents and, of course, all The Fellowship Council who work tirelessly to ensure that this organisation continues to enjoy the prestige and standing in our industry that it has enjoyed for so many years.”
Time to enjoy
... but also an opportunity to remember and support those people in our industry who need our help. This is why The Fellowship works in such close association with HABB.
The Fellowship stays in the top spot for creative excellence thanks to members.
The Fellowship President’s Night is particlarly cherished for being an evening of contrasts formalities, serious moments of reflection, recognition of achievements and lots of fun and entertainment!
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me nts The Services SETA will be paying out over R1 billion in grants to address scarce and critical skills during 2013, says Dr Sihle Moon, the SETA Administrator. SETA-article 2_option 2.indd 2
his budget is added to the R600 million allocated in 2012 for programmes commencing this year, bringing the total expenditure that the Services SETA will be spending to R1.6 billion. This is almost double the annual amount in previous years. Part of the reason for the increase in funds is that the SETA Grant Regulations, published in 2012 and which came into effect on 1 April 2013, increases the amount available by some R200 million. Another reason is the extensive work that had to be undertaken in order to align policies, systems, processes and procedures at the Services SETA with the new mandate, National Skills Development Strategy III (NSDSIII). This has, admittedly, contributed to some measure of delay in actual service delivery and our stakeholders, especially, levy paying member companies who have rightly expressed concerns at the delay. Our recent road show, throughout South Africa, seems to suggest that there is broad acceptance and support for the direction that the Services SETA is taking. There is also increased acceptance of the role and responsibility of employers as active participants in the skills production process in South Africa. Without active employer participation, we will never be able to accurately define skills demand in the various industries and sub-sectors. Of course, on our part, the Services SETA must enhance service delivery and ensure that we fund skills demand in our sector, including scarce, critical and priority skills needs. Grants are being allocated in a number of different ways, to reach as many of the SETA’s 150 000 member companies as possible. There will be: • Direct grants to employers who submitted workplace skills plans and training reports by 30 June 2013. If an employer offers to run learnerships and internships that address skills in short supply, we will be partnering with them to fund and implement such programmes. We are determined to ensure that the flow of funds to employers engaged in workplace training is not reduced, but rather increased. • There is also a funding window that was opened
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in February to all employers in the sector, regardless of whether they submit plans and reports. Applications received in March are now being assessed and money will start to flow in the next month or so. We are particularly concerned to reach small and micro enterprises. A lot of resources will be put into supporting training for small businesses, including cooperatives and non-profit structures in the sector. • Funding is also being channelled into 16 projects directed at specific sub-sectors or industries. There will be a sizable sum of money allocated to the real estate industry, to communications and marketing companies, and to hairdresser training. We believe that such targeting interventions, implemented with the industry representatives concerned, are going to achieve expanded employment and growth. • There are also projects aimed at building training and work experience opportunities in a number of rural districts. We have identified six rural districts in the Eastern Cape, KwaZulu Natal, Free State and Limpopo, and are developing partnerships with local universities and Further Education and Training (FET) colleges to address local skills needs and offer young people work and training opportunities. These are not just six and twelve month programmes, but multi-year commitments, aimed at really stimulating local economic growth. We want to be able to measure impact over time and really make a difference. • We have identified twelve further education and training colleges that we shall be working with. The idea is to build capacity, connect colleges to business and help FETs to offer relevant qualifications that respond to local economic needs. • Disability is also a critical area of focus. In the Services SETA, a disability task team advises and guides the SETAs interventions in the sector. This helps in keeping our expenditure focused, relevant and responsive to the needs of the disability sector. The Services SETA, like other SETAs, has found it
difficult making adjustments required by the Minister of Higher Education and Training. The NSDSIII and the new SETA Grant Regulations are not easy to implement. They require a change from chasing numerical targets to focused projects where the desired outcomes and impact are spelt out from the outset and can be measured. This is not easy and has taken time, but we are getting there. 2013 is an exciting year.
“Without active employer participation, we will never be able to accurately define skills demand in the various industries and subsectors. ” editorial
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New Talent Category winner Salame de Wet and Creative Colourist Category winner Heidi-Helena van de Berg produced skillfully constructed designs.
Color Zoom Challenge
Goldwell’s Color Zoom Collection for 2013 is Beautify: a worldwide movement aimed at making our environment more beautiful to ultimately enhance the quality of our lives. The ‘creative human touch’ becomes the source of inspiration for unconventional styles that are bursting with colour. Eclectic mix-and-match – new combinations of colours, materials and patterns – become the most important design elements in re-defining conventional styling. The Color Zoom Challenge 2013 invites stylists from around the world to create their interpretation of Beautify by competing in a local competition. Goldwell has announced the talented South African winners. New Talent Category; gold winner, Salome de Wet, Fusion Living Pretoria, silver winner, Angelique de Villiers, Headcandy Port Elizabeth and bronze went to Samantha Retief, La Tome Outshoorn. Creative Colorist Category; gold winner, Heidi-Helena van de Berg, Fusion Living Pretoria, silver winner Connie de Sousa, C jay’s Louis Trichard and bronze went to Lindie van Tonder, Rednot Wilderness. The gold winners and their models will represent South Africa at the world finals held in Los Angeles in October.
Philip Kingsley sponsored G8 Summit
Philip Kingsley was proud to announce that his range of healthy hair products had been selected for use at the G8 Summit. Each leader in attendance was gifted with Philips bestselling Jet Set Kit containing a Moisture Balancing Shampoo and Conditioner, plus Philip’s award winning Elasticizer deep conditioning mask, originally created for Audrey Hepburn. Philip Kingsley commented on how thrilled he was to contribute his award winning range to the G8 leaders, "Multi Award winning, with a heritage spanning 50 years; I am delighted to have provided product for the G8 leaders." The Soft & Shiny Jet Set Kit, as used at the G8 Summit, is a perfect introduction to healthy hair and ideal for travel.
Leaders at the G8 Summit were gifted with the Soft Shiny Jet Set Kit.
Christilene Erasmus wins World Style Contest
Christilene Erasmus, owner of Head Candy in Port Elizabeth, beat nine other contestants from around the world at the World Style Contest, hosted by the Davines World Wide Hair Tour on 28 May 2013. Davines brought together its international community to Paris to create a unique event to promote beauty and creativity. International stylists had the opportunity to take part in the event, discover new trends, share ideas and projects, and experience the very essence of beauty. Erasmus won the 9th edition of Davines South African national World Style Contest in January this year with the 'Urban Beauty' hairstyle modelled by Port Elizabeth fashion designer, Natalie Creed. This unique and trendy hairstyle was Christilene and Natalie’s ticket to the finals. "I really wanted to celebrate the independence, elegance and beauty of the city of Paris," explains Erasmus. "My theme style is a strong curvy haircut with bold lines and subtle elegant pastel colours." Davines South Africa has never been this proud, as this exhibits the talent and creative potential local stylists have at an international level.
Chistilene scooped first place with her doll-inspired look.
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2013/08/29 11:01 AM
Modern hair introduces Nioxin into their portfolio of brands.
Modern Hair acquires Nioxin
Modern Hair, the licensed distributors of the full range of P&G Salon Professional brands in SA including Wella Professionals, System Professional, Kadus Professional and Sebastian Professional, recently hosted a high tea at the Table Bay Hotel. Modern Hair Managing Director, Chris Stofberg introduced the latest addition to their portfolio, Salon Professional – Nioxin, innovative hair care products formulated to help those with thinning hair achieve thicker, denser looking hair. “The Nioxin brand is now a part of the P&G Salon Professional portfolio which was taken over by Modern Hair in January 2013,” says Chris Stofberg. “This completes the brand offer which we have for our salons, and ensures that they can cater to each client’s specific needs. In addition to representing the number one ranked salon colour in South Africa we now also have the number one ranked thinning hair care brand. Thinning hair and hair loss is a very controversial topic with a lot of unfounded claims being made and we thought it prudent to bring the experts straight to our clients to clear up a lot of confusion surrounding this common condition.” Dermatological Spokesperson for Salon Professional Nioxin, Dr Bianca Maria Piraccini, accompanied by Senior P&G Scientist, Scalp and Hair Expert for Nioxin, Dr. René C Rust, shared their extensive knowledge regarding the problem of hair thinning with the audience as well as provided the audience with academic insight into hair and scalp needs. Nioxin system collections can be found in select salons nationwide.
For every ghd V pink diamond set sold R100 of the proceeds will be donated to CANSA.
ghd V pink diamond set in support of CANSA
Look good and feel amazing with the limited edition ghd V styler set making its debut for Breast Cancer Awareness month. For every ghd V pink diamond set sold until 31 October 2013, R100 of the proceeds will be donated to CANSA. More than R100 million has already been raised in aid of breast cancer charities worldwide through the sales of the coveted ghd pink stylers. For 2013, ghd’s pink diamond set looks set to give that figure a further boost. The ghd V pink diamond set is part of the beautiful jewel collection and features a ghd V professional styler in a rich pink metallic finish, glossy black plates with a hint of sparkle, and comes with a matching ghd paddle brush.
L’Oréal Professional African Salon Institute
L’Oréal South Africa, in partnership with Mizani and L’Oréal Professional, has proudly launched the L’Oréal Professional African Salon Institute in Johannesburg. The purpose of the institute is to train the next generation of hairdressers. The institute offers a part-time course, run over 16 months and a full-time course for eight months. At the end of each course, students will be certified as a L’Oréal Professional Certified Stylist. In order to enrol, students must be 16 years or older, have a passion for hairdressing and no previous qualification is needed.
The L’Oréal Professional African Salon Institute will train the next generation of hairdressers.
2013/08/29 11:03 AM
1 CREATE GUM The Biosense Create range is enriched with silk Amino Acids which are water soluble, non-animal proteins that penetrate and strengthen hair. The range adds softness and body while protecting against heat elements without weighing down the hair. The Gum, which is suitable for shorter styles, creates an unkept, grunge or sleek look and can be applied to wet or dry hair. Using a very small amount, rub onto finger tips and tap into palms to activate the fibres.
2 N°13 MAT FORMING GROUND FOR WIZARDS from Davines is a matte clay with a dry effect, gives extra grip and a ‘rough’ sensation to the hair. Created with the latest generation resins, the clay gives immediate strong hold and definition. Mat Forming Ground provides lots of structure and body to hair, and easy separation of hair strands. 3 GRAND CRU ELIXIR ULTIMATE replenishing and beautifying scented oil for damaged hair from Kérastase, is known as the ‘Tree of life’. The light textured formula contains Oléo-complexe and Immortal Moringa concentrates intense levels of vitamins and nutrients. This unique formula restores hair to its optimal condition, making it look smooth and soft to the touch. The woody oriental and citrus fragranced oil leaves the hair feeling replenished and nourished.
“Restores hair to its optimal condition, making it look smooth and soft to touch.”
4 GHD JEWEL COLLECTION has made its sparkling appearance and now ghd gives you a few limited edition options in amethyst, sapphire or emerald. The collection’s palette is inspired by the opulent tones and fabric finishes seen on the Spring/Summer 2013 catwalks with rich metallic finishes. The collection contains a ghd V gold classic styler and paddle brush set and the ghd air professional hairdryer. Each hairdryer has a high-shine metallic trim in amethyst, sapphire or emerald.
5 INITIALISTE The Kérastase Initialiste, Fundamental Concentrate with native plant cells is a formula designed like a skincare serum to enhance hair beauty. Enriched with Regenerator Complex, it optimises the quality of hair growth at its source to make it grow more beautifully, reducing breakage, increased hair matter, shine and elasticity. The leave-in formula, ultra-light serum texture and refined fragrance makes it a beauty ritual for all hair types. In salons or at home, Initialiste can be applied directly to the scalp after each shampoo, two or three times a week. Separate towel dried hair strand by strand with the pipette and apply the Advanced Concentrate. After applying, delicately massage the serum with the finger tips to evenly distribute the serum over the whole scalp.
2013/08/29 11:05 AM
6 BC OIL MIRACLE VOLUME AMPLIFIER 5 Schwarzkopf Professional continues the BC Oil Miracle range by launching the new BC Oil Miracle Volume Amplifier 5, which nourishes the hair with a combination of five different oils. The formula with Argan, Marula, Almond, Macadamia and Jojoba oil gives shine and suppleness while providing the hair with instant grip and volume. The milky elixir includes glitter particles and helps to protect the hair from blow dry heat and further negative effects. The BC Oil Miracle Volume Amplifier 5 is a leave-in product and is suitable for all hair types. 7 LUMINOUS HAIRSPRAY Luminous Hairspray Medium blends Moroccanoil’s proprietary argan oil-infused formula into a product that produces strong, manageable and touchable hold with a healthy-looking shine. Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Medium also features the signature Moroccanoil fragrance. The hairspray locks in desired styles, and maintains fun ponytails, flirty waves and tousled hairstyles without compromising shine or luminosity. Hair is left weightless, free-flowing, glistening and touchable without a sticky buildup, and can be easily brushed out. For extra volume, spray the product onto the roots before styling.
“Keratin Protection provides instant and long lasting smoothness.” 8 FOREVER BLONDE RANGE FROM PAUL MITCHELL The sulphate-free Shampoo
gently cleanses and keeps blonde hair light, bright and healthy, while the Conditioner is the perfect hydrator for everyday use. The Dramatic Repair is a lightweight yet powerful multitasking corrector with added Macadamia nut oil to assist in smoothing, strengthening and replenishing depleted hair. Brighten blonde, grey and white hair, and banish brassiness with the Platinum Blonde Shampoo. The violet-tinted shampoo for natural and colour-treated blondes soften strands and add shine.
9 LUXE OIL The Wella System Protect Luxe Oil uses reconstructive Transform Technology that benefits hair inside and out, while protecting it from damage. Keratin Protection provides instant and long lasting smoothness, leaving hair looking healthy and naturally beautiful, while the light weight formula makes the hair easy to style. Use on wet hair to smooth, soften and protect the hair and to add definition to curl, and on dry hair for moisture, illumination and reconditioning.
10 SÉRIE EXPERT PRO-KERATIN REFILL range from L'Oréal Professionnel is designed to leave your hair feeling nourished and protected against external aggressors. Helping to strengthen weak, damaged hair, the deeply nourishing formula contains active ingredients Pro-Keratin and Incell, which works to leave hair feeling better than before and more resistant to breakage.
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ESTETICA SOUTH AFRICA n. 22/2013
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This is what you receive:
magazines + Additional newsletters + Colour & Technique Supplement
ESTETICA AFRO magazines
ESTETICA SA is the essential business tool for every salon, creative mind and industry professional. To subscribe to ESTETICA SA or renew your current subscription log onto our website or contact Ingrid on 086 000 9590. 4
N° 2/12 EDITION
An exclusive interview with John Paul DeJoria, the man at the helm of John Paul Mitchell Systems.
Schwarzkopf Professional brought their worldwide charity initiative, Shaping Futures, to South Africa.
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
The importance of preparing your hair before a relaxer
INTERVIEW Toya Delazy on the phenomenal success she has achieved
C o l o u r & Te c h n i q u e 2 0 1 2
Stylists share their favourite products, preferred styling tools and secret product cocktails.
4 RD E D I T I O N 2 0 1 2
The Mizani style exclusive client evening
With the impressive innovation in technology there is no shortage of styling products and tools that perform better than ever. Local and international stylists share their favourite products, preferred styling tools and reveal their secret product cocktails.
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w w w . e s t e t i c a . c o . z a
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ESTETICA SA is the world’s leading hair, beauty and fashion magazine. Over 96 pages dedicated to the best in local and international talent, trends and news.
FEATURES dedicated to informing readers about industry topics, trends and relevant business and product information. MIZANI ESTETICA OBC.indd 1
2013/06/10 3:25 PM
ESTETICA AFRO is an authentic top quality magazine with the main objective to inspire and educate, while showcasing relevant ethnic hair and beauty trends.
2012/07/20 1:21 PM
COLOUR & TECHNIQUE supplement presents flexible looks, dynamic colours and the technical details on how to create the looks in step-by-step illustrations.
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2013/08/29 11:43 AM
ESTETICA SOUTH AFRICA n. 22/2013
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2013/08/21 9:10 AM
TINTA A COLO COLOR L R LO
D I V E R S I T Y ALL HAIR SOLUTIONS
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