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SUMMER 2019

ISSUE NO. 1

£3.00

URBANE

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS With up and coming models Alphonso Brown, Lucy Samuels and more

ALL ABOUT THE ARTISTRY OF FASHION GET BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY


URBANE | SUMMER 2019

EDITOR’S LETTER

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ello and welcome to URBANE’s Summer Issue. It’s time for a new approach to the fashion industry, not only taking in the tips, tricks and styles of fashion, but also getting behind the scenes with models, stylists, fashion designers and more. We get to know not only big industry proffesionals, but small local businesses and the influencers to watch out for. With this magazine, we’ve come together as a team with our shared passion. We decided we wanted to take fashion magazines a step further, and create one that enables readers to take a step into the business behind fashion, or to enhance the knowledge they already have. With this being our first issue, we hope to continue to explore what the fashion industry has to offer- but also grow ourselves in terms of sourcing, styling and design. If all goes well- we hope to produce a second. If any readers would like to get in touch- please contact any of our writers via their socials on the opposite page. Personally, fashion has always been a hobby of mine - with my style changing over time. I get inspiration from Instagram - which is crazy as it all started with my first magazine when I was young. That being said, print is not dying, with this magazine being proof! Magazines are also expanding with digital versions being available online. If you would love to also have this copy on your digital device- search for us on Issuu.com. I would like to give a special thankyou, to all the models and contributors of this magazine for their time and amazing skills behind the camera. Many of our models are starting out into the industry, but with their ability to work the camera - you would never have thought so! Here at URBANE, we don’t just talk to models, we also get to know up and coming fashion designers- and get to know what it takes to get their style out into the world. We also don’t just portray ‘mainstream’ fashion, we try and get creative with everything in the industry. There is even a section dedicated towards susatinable alternatives to the ever growing force which we call fashion. Anyway, sit down and grab a cuppa with our mag, and enjoy what we have to offer! Jasmine Butler - Designer and part Editor @JazzyMariee22


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URBANE EDITOR

ABBY DAVIES @this_girl_can

SUB-EDITOR

CONNIE CRIBB

@conniecribb

FEATURES EDITOR HOLLIE MANLOW

@holliemanlow

PHOTOGRAPHY

CONTENTS

ABBY DAVIES

DESIGN AND ART DIRECTOR JASMINE BUTLER

@jazzymariee22

DESIGN ASSISTANT BINKY THE CAT

MODELS

LUCY SAMUELS ALPHONSO BROWN KATE STEPHENS MARIA BLAKE

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DATES FOR YOUR DIARY A what’s on in fashion

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BREAKING INTO THE INDUSTRY With model Lucy Samuels

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TEXTILES AND FASHION Starting up a home business.

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THIS MONTHS FEATURED BODY ART With Maria Blake

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TOP INFLUENCERS TO WATCH Different styles to follow on insta

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INTERVIEW WITH ALPHONSO BROWN Front Cover Image By Abby Davies

Our front cover model


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THE ART BEHIND DRAG FASHION Enter the world of Drag

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DRAG MAKEUP

What’s hot... what’s not.

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LADY SHAKIRA Who are they?

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SUSTAINABLE FASHION Did you know?

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FABRICS AND TEXTILES

What fabrics are in this season

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A timeline of sex appeal

Can fashion be influential?

SEX IN FASHION

FASHION AND CHANGE

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What it takes to be a fashion designer

Important stuff in the fashion world

DESIGNERS AT KAMO

INFLUENCES THROUGHOUT

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At one with nature

New trends and styles

KATE STEPHENS

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK / BRIDAL


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s e t a D

New York Fashion Week (Mens) June 4th - June 6th 2019

for your Diary

Milan Fashion Week (Mens) June 14th - June 17th 2019

Miami Fashion Week May 29th - June 2nd 2019

London Fashion Week (Mens) June 8th - June 10th 2019

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London Fashion Week September 13th - September 17th 2019 Paris Fashion Week September 23rd - October 1st 2019

Paris Fashion Week (Mens) June 18th - June 23rd 2019

Paris Haute Couture June 30th - July 4th 2019

Milan Fashion Week September 17th - September 23rd 2019

Art Basel Miami Beach December 4th - December 8th 2019 Sourced By Connie Cribb

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B Into

reaking

The industry with dancer and model Lucy samuels

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I don’t always like the elitism that can come with ‘high’ fashion. Essentially, you can buy the same product but one is a pound and the other is a thousand if there’s a big brand label on it. I dont think money should equal fashion. I believe in experiences over possessions, so I’d rather travel than own an expensive handbag. If I like the outfit I’m buying it, no matter who it is made by. However big brands do have an appeal, you can’t deny that if you wear expensive labels then people tend view you differently. This is hard for me; I am trying to get into the fashion industry and as an aspiring model I would like to wear big names, rather than high street ones, to give a good impression. These are the companies I would like to work for after all. My career as a dancer started really with my nose pressed up against the glass watching my brother in ballet class. We would watch my brother in various shows and I would end up running down the aisle of the theatre trying to get on the stage. When I was two and a half, I was finally allowed to join my first class and I’ve never looked back. Dance has opened many doors for me, from being involved in music videos for new artists, to competing in National competitions. My career in modelling started when I modelled for an International Dancewear Brand. The photographer said I had ‘million dollar legs’ which was quite the compliment, and an affirmation that I could really make this a career. So what’ next for me? Next year, I plan to train at Laine Theatre Arts in London to prepare me for this crazy journey ahead. I hope to get lead roles in the west end such as Elphaba in Wicked, Christine Daaé in Phantom, and the list goes on. I’m so excited for the future and have my Mum and Dad to thank for all the major support throughout my life and career so far. I have also got to give a massive dedication to Pollyanna Buckingham who has trained me all these years and made me the dancer I am today. If ever you want to learn to sing, dance, act anything Pollyanna Buckingham is the one... remember the name! I also want to thank ‘Nana Pat’ for always travelling across England with us to watch me compete. I can always count on Nana Pat to be there, standing up ready to shout “Woohoo!” whichmakes everything seem worthwhile.

y favourite thing about being in front of the camera? To me it’s like performing, selling it to the lense so you get a true, confident image. I am a performer, that’s what I do. I treat the camera as my audience and the whole time I am working it 100%. Before getting to a shoot, I don’t normally need to plan too much because the photographer knows what they’re looking for, and they’ll let me know what to do. If I am asked to freestyle then I know how to immediately strike several poses. When getting ready for work I plan and pack any outfits from my wardrobe that I think are going to vibe with the feeling of that week. I have a few confidence secrets - especially when wearing various revealing outfits, a bronze glow goes a long way to help give me self-assuredness. But I think it mostly comes from within, diffidence translates terribly in modelling. To me it just never feels awkward, no matter what I’m wearing or asked to do. I have a laid back personality so that probably helps. But, being easy-going does not mean that I don’t aim high. I would love to one day be on a big brand catwalk, you know, who doesn’t want to be on the cover of Vogue? Whenever I’m in front of any camera I almost pretend I’m there already! I am also a singer, actress and dancer so I use all of that experience in my work. I’ve been performing all my life, so now it comes quite naturally to me. Modelling is a hard industry to get into, but I think my dance background has taught me how to be tough, face criticism and keep improving day in day out. Fashion is crucial to me as a performer. A lot of what I wear has been predetermined, as in, part of my dance outfits, or what I am asked to wear for a shoot. In my personal life, my dress sense changes with the mood I’m in. I’m going to describe my style as sash-cash, which is sassy casual. I’ll often be seen wearing matching trackies for comfort and style during the day. This helps with work and travelling. Plus, I live in England so the weather plays quite a big part in my outfits being super adaptable. By night the heels are whipped out and I mean business. I love planning a whole outfit, hair and accessories. “I don’t think I’ve made that many fashion faux pas. When I was a toddler I always wanted long hair so I used to waltz around the house with nothing but tights on my head and a vibrant pink feather boa... I get nearly as flamboyant on nights out these days.”

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Photography by Abby Davies

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andFASHION

TEXTILES H

ome start-up businesses are becoming increasingly prominent in a time when people utilise their hidden talents and passions, and manage that with the desire to work for themselves. Creativity can be lost within the scale mass produce where everything needs to be focused on cost effectiveness and appealing to the lowest common denominator. Social media is giving these self-employers new abilities through advertising, which may have been near impossible in years gone. The craft behind running a business is an intricate and demanding process. One that requires patience, determination and resourcefulness. However, if successful, the business can thrive and eveolve. Holly is a 23 year old business owner in the South West: I run a business called ‘Holly Edwards Textiles’ - My products are all handmade, personalised keepsakes and gifts. My product range is still ever growing. 98% of the products are made to order and I always take on custom makes. My business began when I was 14, from my little box bedroom whilst studying my GCSE’s. It contunied through school and eventually led to studying textiles at university. Since graduating in 2017, I changed the name to ‘Holly Edwards Textiles’ and like to say I work on my business more seriously. I started working with textiles when I was 13. It started with diary covers and pin cushions and I would use second hand teacups and saucers to make sewing kits. My social media is increasingly expanding and Instagram is something I have built over many years and Facebook is something I utilised when I graduated. My Instagram followers are a constant support network.I would post what I was making online and I even tried a few crafts fairs when I was really young. It was as a business demonstration, just as a young girl having had made some bits. It was that reception that made me think that I could actually make some money out of this. I suppose it was the comments what made me think I could do this then knowing I could myself and having that self belief to drive things forward. The hardest thing about running a business is to keep going.

By Abby Davies

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Being self employed is hard. I am at the moment, self employed and employed. My employment is my ‘cushion.’ The self employment is what gives me the reason to get up everyday and how I can make a difference through my talents. Comparison is something else I, and many other makers, struggle with. Knowing what makes you different is important to keep your head high and to keep going in what you believe in. What inspires the things that I create is my customers. As I said, most of my items are made to order therefore I personalise the items with anything my customers like - I love the stories behind the personalisation and the reason for gifting. My favourite thing to make changes very regularly because lots of my customers message me and it starts like ‘Holly, I’ve got this idea and I’m wondering if you can help me and bring it to life’. That is why I do what I do, I love helping to bring these ideas to life and to see the reactions my products give. I love making the memory cushions. They are handmade cushions made from your loved one’s clothing. Each cushion is different depending on the clothing you choose. The clothing holds so many memories and I am so touched when I’m asked to make these special pieces. My favourite type of fabric is cotton, I use a lot of cotton or poly cotton with my products and I love all the different prints. Felt is another fabric I am constantly ordering more of. All my free motion embroidery is stitched onto felt. Easy to manipulate and stitch into but it makes underneath the sewing machine so fluffy. The thing

I love about textiles has got to be how everyone interprets it. As well as having an online business and making items to order, I also teach sewing in my workshops. I love teaching beginners and there is a moment when it just clicks and if they’ve never used a machine before they are able to do it all. Then I know I’ve done my job. I also teach children, which is lovely to be a part of their sewing journeys! Some fabrics are a nightmare to work with, though. Faux leathers and mirrors canvas are the worst. Both beautiful fabrics, however once they are stitched you can’t go back - the fibres are tightly bound so when the needle goes through them it creates the holes which can’t be reversed. You have got to make sure you don’t use pins and each stitch goes exactly where you want it to go Working independently means that when you have that light bulb moment, and moment of creativeness, the end product may be slightly mad and until I post it online I don’t know. However, being aware of your customer base is important and something I have got to know after many years. I’d like to think I know what my customers want - sometimes I don’t get it quite right. As my items are made to order, it is easier as I don’t hold much stock at all. I’ve been sewing for 10 years now and the items I have made for a long time, I have my own ways of making them making it super efficient so most items don’t take me that long to make. A standard square name cushion will take me about 30 or 45 minutes but

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then something like a lampshade or memory cushion will take me most of the day. I rely heavily on social media to boost my business. A lot of my customers prefer messaging me directly to place their orders which is absolutely fine. Social media is another job entirely. I make sure I post a couple times a week at least and I use Instagram stories as a way to document my days so my customers get to see Holly, the real person behind the business.

If you fancy taking a look at some of Holly’s work, you can find her on Instagram @HollyEdwardsTextiles or website hollyedwardstextiles.com/shop


URBANE | SUMMER 2019

This Month’s Featured Body Art @MariaBlake

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Top Influencers URBANE | SUMMER 2019

Chic

@emmahill

@jesshunt2

@emilyshak

Boho

@ropesofholland

@maryellendimauro

@mariallavorialemany

@costureroreal

@anxmute

Alternative

@samkat_

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to Watch URBANE | SUMMER 2019

Jasmine Butler

Over 50

@iconaccidental

@greceghanem

@botticelliinblack

Retro

@aesthetiic._.s

@mmeburdette

@fannyrosie

Minimilist

@thebeckseffect

@rosalindblundell

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@beatrice.gutu


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Alphonso Brown

You’ve done a bit of modelling work now, what’s your favourite thing about being in front of the camera?

The freedom. Some get in front of the camera and feel limited or self conscious; thankfully I get liberation. This shoot was just a spontaneous proposition, but we were able to execute it because we were all willing to explore.

How do you make yourself feel camera ready/prepare for a shoot?

In the days building up to a shoot; I clean up my eating a bit and consume a lot more water. On the shoot day, I treat it as I would an audition, the photographer wants to enjoy themselves and get the best shot(s) and I want the same, so I go in positively and open-minded. I also try to think of my own ideas prior to the shoot so I am able to contribute in other ways.

Talk us through your personal style/ dress sense.

I need to find a term, but I can’t yet describe my style, but I have recently enjoyed going to a charity shop with a cool £10 and leaving with some niche jumpers/shirts that would suit my Grandad a lot more than me.

Who inspires you and why?

Currently, Oliver Greaves (@TailorFitted), definitely one of the coldest out there in the fashion game; I say him because he has been consistently growing his own brand and developing his style along the way. Growing up however, my eldest brother was my main influence- he had some mad garments- and whenever I could, I would take and wear outfits I had seen him wear; even if it meant squeezing my size 9s into his size 7s x

What’s your most embarrassing outfit/look from the past?

I was going to front like I never had any, but Facebook paints a thousand pictures. I remember one mufti-day(wear your own clothes) I came in with a light blue jumper, blue church shirt and blue dip-dye jeans. I remember putting it together the night before feeling like a g, but 8+ years on, it’s more of a repressed memory.

Primark or Gucci, do labels matter to you, and why?

Not a massive label guy at all, can only think of one major major brand I have in my wardrobe. I prefer to find unbranded clothes and put them in an outfit. In saying that, wearing just one label piece, even something small like a belt can really complete an outfit.

If you could make one thing fashionable again - what would it be? Has to be those Kanye West sunglasses. Elite and ahead of their time

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@alphonsoxiv


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Age 21 Location: Croydon Profession: Actor/Model/Blogger

Photography by Abby Davies

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Drag fashion

AND THE ART BEHIND IT 22


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By Hollie Manlow

Sashay, shaunty, panthers on the runway! With open arms the world is BEGGING for some more crazy inspiring looks that leaves the fashion world’s jaws left right open.

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together polished outfits that can capture an audience immediately. There are so many styles of drag out there, but back in the 80’s and 90’s, the club kid style was introduced. This style of drag included extreme forms of fashion that went above and beyond. The club scene was a popular era for Drag Queens to come out and express themselves under the moonlight, but it was also the era for when famous drag queens, Rupaul and Lady Bunny had begun their drag journeys. A club drag queen is still performed today, but has added more mixture of high fashion to the mix that people still love and strive for to see today. Now turning towards the more dark side of drag, the ‘goth’ queen looks to showcase their styles by adding a dark edge to their fashion and going beyond the extreme to stand out from the rest of the crowd. Famous names such as Sharon Needles and Vander Von Odd represent wacky goth drag at its finest but its a style of drag audiences out there want to see more of. Bring us some crazy drag please! “Need help packin?” Now what queen may instantly come to your mind when this particular saying is blurted out of their mouths. Bianca Del Rio is the definition of a camp drag queen who loves to use the form of comedy as their style of drag. Referring to the humour form of drag, camp queens like to dress up with silly references and metaphors, so drag queen Bianca Del Rio style is looking like a clown and acting like one. Camp drag queens usually have a lot of experience under their belt from performing for many years; they originate from the early days of drag where performance was key and the main purpose was to entertain audiences no matter how silly they may have looked. Lady Bunny in particular is a household name in the community because she does camp, and is a very well put together queen. Last but definitely not least on our list, and is one of the upcoming trends of drag - is the style of a Trans Drag Queen. It pretty much says it in the name, but similar to a fish queen a Trans queen is a queen who likes to perfect their appearance, but is also in the middle, or has undergone a gender transition from male to female. You don’t have to be fully transitioned to be labelled a trans drag queen, but some drag artists like to take small steps in order to make themselves more feminine. These could consist of breast implants, or plastic surgery to feminise the face further. To name a few, drag queens such as Sonique and Gia Gunn have all undergone a transition from male to female, and don’t they look great? It’s amazing to see so many different styles of drag out there that anyone can be a part of. Drag has opened up so many doors for people to express themselves, and it’s a community that’s growing everyday which has challenged the fashion industry, by presenting talented queens who know how to design and work a catwalk. With the help of social media nowadays, drag queens can promote themselves through profiles online that really showcase who they are and what they can do as a drag performer. The art of drag has blossomed, and will continue too as more queens are daring to challenge the fashion world with its contour designs and epic looks.

he house of drag with its contemporary art has become a huge phenomenon, with thanks to the Emmy award winning show Rupaul’s Drag Race. We’ve seen over a decade daring queens that have hit the catwalk to challenge the fashion industry with its extreme sense of fashion, sprinkled with some humour and metaphors. And now is the perfect time to explore the different types of drag there are out there, and why the fashion industry is changing from the ever growing popularity of what these drag queens are coming up with. There has been a huge range of different fashion lines out there we can obsess over, but there’s something about the art of drag that really stands out in the fashion industry. The term ‘drag’ itself has come far and wide throughout the years, and so many different people have interpreted it in many different ways. You get the fashion artists, the comedians, performers, makeup artists and LGBT activists that all work together to create a community that is fighting to fit in with the rest of the world. Drag is a great way to express yourself in what you enjoy doing most. Let’s get right to it then. The first style of drag I want to go into, and it would be least of what you expected for a first reference, but it’s great to see the female gender challenging the definition of what drag is. The term ‘faux queen’ is used to describe a drag queen who is a biological female. Females who tend to participate in the art of drag enjoy the extreme styles they can create, and it’s always a bonus that they’ve got the female parts already. Faux queens can paint talented faceand completely transform themselves into whatever they want as a form of drag. Not as common as the male drag queen, but since the popularity of drag is growing, so is the number of female drag queens joining the scene. Now rather than just sticking to one particular gender, why can’t an artist interpret both genders with the use of stereotypes and exposed body features? Another style of drag which is known as the ‘genderfuck’ style is a way of interpreting two genders in the art of fashion. Milk, a famous drag artist who likes to mix up the way he is represented in drag, once said “I love to piss people off, make people question what they’re seeing and how what I’m visually doing relates to being a drag queen. A phrase such as this pretty much defines the style of what a genderfuck queen is, but people who perform it also like to challenge the way society thinks a person should dress depending on their gender and age. “You’re beautiful, you look like Linda Evangelista…”. Drag artist Valentina, defines the perfect fish queen who knows what they’re doing when it comes to looking like a glamorous female model, head to toe. Another popular style in the art of drag is the fish queen. A fish queen tries to look as close to a woman as possible, by including every inch of female features as possible. From padding to a perfectly cinched waist, fish queens take their drag very seriously and like to represent drag as a glamourous unique form of beauty. There are popular for putting

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Drag Makeup Part of being a successful Drag Queen is knowing how to paint your face well and have your own sense of style.

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rag Queens around have become more established in 2019, that they can completely transform themselves and hide that masculinity that’s under all that clothing and makeup. Now it is time to explore the makeup artistry of these seekful successful entertainers. Drag makeup is a particular artform that takes time and effort to master beautifully. Lots of people within the drag community and outside are fascinated with the ideas and contribution that goes into drag makeup and writers here at Urbane want to find out more about this amazing skillful talent. With the development of technology, it can be pretty easy to learn new skills and gain ideas from an alter ego an individual is creating. In terms of the drag world a few years back, drag queens would have to rely on pictures of women or other professionals to gain the skills they needed to paint. But now most information is online and is easy access for most. People can share their ideas around and be inspired to create their own designs or how they would like to look as a drag artist. Makeup on a drag queen is the first impression so therefore, the artist has got to make it right to show their chosen identity. Various examples of makeup can really show the difference of what that drag artist is trying to interpret in their own unique way. Famous for their makeup in particular, drag queens such as Kim Chi and Aquaria can pull off almost any look with their unique approaches, but the two drag artists are very far apart in their styles. Kim Chi creates an abstract form which almost looks non human, and Aquaria can create a realness illusion of a style that individuals can almost forget that it is Aquaria. It is safe to say that drag queens can fall under certain umbrellas in the drag world, but every single individual has their own style and interprets it all in a different way. If you wanted to learn the ropes and gain ideas of what you could do to your own face, there are plenty of ways to learn and create through the use of online. YouTube in particular holds great videos of drag makeup, such as World of Wonders “Mug” which is run by Kim Chi and drag queen Naomi Smalls. They critique and give ideas on their expertise of makeup based around the show Rupaul’s Drag Race. If you have watched the show from the beginning of season 1 to season 11 , over time you will see the improvement of drag queen makeup and how the popularity of drag has reached a point where it is easy to access and explore. Ideas are shared and styles are created. Anyone can paint a face and decide what style they want to be. Choose your own path and showcase who you are as an individual or drag artist. By Hollie Manlow

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Lady Shakira From the clubs of burlesque to mainstream drag, Lady Shakira Diamond shares her life as a drag artist and how the interpretations of drag can differ from what people want to see out of the drag scene now in 2019.

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rom first starting out in the cabaret circuit with burlesquers, the drag scene back then for Lady Shakira Diamond was quite separate. It began when Diamond’s burlesque mother inspired him to start performing in shows which also lead himself further on down the line to becoming a drag artist and performer. At the time, Lady Shakira was going through a tough time dealing with depression and trying to connect a strong bond with his family which wasn’t working. Performing in shows really helped his mood and helped him step away from the current problems he was dealing with. Drag helped Diamond transform himself into a new figure that presented love and entertainment from whenever he showcased his artistry. One day, and how the start of Kieran’s journey began, burlesque mother Nancy Norte invited him to take part in a charity show in which the theme was Arkham Asylum, where he would dress up as the character Two Face. From this performance onwards, Diamond discovered his feminine side which seemed to always come out on stage where he was at his best. During this process of discovering who Kieran could be, he wanted to build an alter ego for himself whilst performing on stage; which positioned him to pursue and develop a character in the form of a drag artist, and later found love with fashion. This helped contribute to his interpretation of what drag is for him and his burlesque past. Choosing a name for his personer, Kieran thought of his childhood, and early references which could help him decide what defined him as a performer. He states: Unlike America, with their crazy thought-out names and feminine personas, I wanted to follow the british trend of adding tongue and cheek humour and a name to remember in the region I’m performing in.

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You get British drag queens that have been struggling for years and years and they are the ones who represent the undying spirit that is drag to me. Because its about being resolute and finding that ambition and aiming for that goal no matter what it costs. If it means ripping up all the bin bags you’ve got in your house and you’ve got to make a dress out of that to wear to a show that night. Alexander Mcqueen, one of the best drag queens I’ve ever known; before he became a famous fashion designer, him and his mates used to go out of a night and wear garbage couture. There was no going out and putting a show on like the drag world does but that’s where fashion comes from. Because it’s that British nac of being able to turn something on its head within such a short space of time and then pulling off a show. At the start of where drag was growing, which to say is probably around the early 90’s, the main factor was to entertain. The show Rupaul’s Drag Race for example has done wonders for the LGBT community, and I feel that because people only know the show, and there’s been no contextual documentaries that showcases the different interpretations of drag out there and around the world, all people only understand is the reality show and believe that to do drag well, you need to be able to complete two challenges and create a runway each week. There is so much more to drag that people can interpret in different ways. Drag queens have open arms to the different styles people present, and as a community, us performers want to encourage queens out there- that are beginning to understand who they there and what they want to showcase as their own unique talent to the world. I am, as a drag queen, still learning the ropes, there is no perfection as a drag artist; you can become close but reach a point where you are happy with yourself and love the style and performance you bring to every time you transform yourself. If you can create a realness illusion and bring a smile to people’s faces and you’re happy with what you do then that’s all that matters in the drag world. Freedom of style and purpose is something drag will always represent in its community forever and always.

I took Shakira as a drag name due to the fact that everyone in my secondary school called me Shakira, from one dance class in which the teacher played Shakira hips don’t lie - and believe it or not I was the only white person in the room with a hip that moved! So that’s why I formed and chose the name Lady Shakira Diamond. Burlesque is my style of drag, but I would word it more as a drag queen who does burlesque looks and acts. Violet Chachki is a great drag artist that shows her persona as a fashion icon that challenges feminine beauty, even though people can easily forget that she is actually a man performing fish and faux queen realness. The great thing about doing drag, is that I can stand on a stage and present my artwork, my creations, and my ideas of what I think a show should be and what the audience want to gain from seeing Lady Shakira perform. What’s good is how people can get used to my kind of style and what I am thinking, it really helps to connect with the audience which makes the performances so much more successful as well. It’s an amazing sensation to stand on stage, bare your soul artistically and have so many people feed you love in return. There’s an old phrase in broadway; a costume can set a story and tell you the front line but not tell you the show, and I very much believe that. When you walk into a room, how you present yourself, how you compare yourself and how much you put into a look says a lot about the person you were then, and I believe you should always walk into a room and make a statement for yourself. I want to walk into the room, hear the gasps and feel as if I have every eye on me until I sit down. When I get into drag, it feels like a form of escapism, I can be whatever I want to be, but you don’t recognise its me, It’s Kieron.

'I don't want to ,I look like a woman want to feel like a goddess''!”

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By Hollie Manlow

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SEX APPEAL IN FASHION By Hollie Manlow

Urbane takes it’s time machine to the past, to explore how sex appeal has changed throughout the years, and what trends we have kept until now or just keep bringing back. The sex appeal of an individual has always been important to woman across every decade.It has adapted to new trends and styles people have invented and have kept the spirit of sex appeal. We’ve gone through corsets, to shoulder pads and even crop tops that are just about big enough to cover our breasts, but here at Urbane we would like to take a look back on the most popular sex appeal trends that has contributed to the design of fashion in our 21st century today.

1900s

Starting back in the 1900’s, women were beginning to add sex appeal to their clothing. Each generation of fashion become relaxed and set in their own ways and trends. The importance of corsets were very much worn by most women. Women were attracted to corsets from their use in shaping a female’s body tremendously well. Their waists would shrink and their breasts would be pushed up to create a sexual appearance. Corsets were also useful for posture and to ensure that women would stand up straight and look presentable at all times.

1910s

Entering the 1910’s was a revolution for fashion and women. The invention of makeup by cosmetic brand Max Factor became huge, and was worn by many actresses in Hollywood. But during this period, wearing makeup was still frowned upon by others, so therefore women were very discreet in how much they would wear in public. Big names such as Rimmel and Maybelline came soon after and the cosmetic world exploded towards the end of the 1910’s. Fun Fact: Rimmel invented the mascara. Now could you tell us that you really knew that?

1920s

The Jazz age began with women really stepping out and being broad with their appearances. Curves were in full swing as women used to gatsby their way through the 1920’s with bold makeup that also featured pale skin; a new popular trend in this particular era, but of course curves were a popular courtesy. A new type of sex appeal would appear and show up in later decades; the boyish figure became a popular appearance in which women would try and flatten their breasts down to create a more straight looking look.

1930s and 19 40s

Now the 1930’s and 40’s were pretty similar in terms of how women would interpret sex appeal into their appearances. The boyish figure look would continue into this era from the 1920’s, but a few amendments were added to spice up the look for this particular generation of women. Icon Joan Crawford introduced shoulder pads to the scene with a strong silhouette, creating a more classy formal look for women without revealing too much skin. Hollywood icons were and still are huge influences in the way sex appeal works in fashion for women. Inspirations such as Crawford and other actresses such as Audrey Hepburn really defined a look that was sexy but also extremely classy and powerful. Fun Fact: Designer Frederick Mellinger invented the padded bra, which was a godsend for women all over the world. It made women’s breasts look more plumped, but it also helped bring back the curvy figure, which fits well when the breasts are exposed.

1950s

Finding its way back from the early 1900’s, curves were back in and the sex appeal of women really blossomed in the fashion industry. Role models who stunned the industry were actresses such as Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly who really defined the era with their two different approaches. Monroe exposed a lot of skin, as for Kelly it was more calm and classy.

19 60s

A popular era of fashion was of course the swinging 60’s. This legendary era of music and acting really excelled in the fashion industry too. Legs had finally earned their spotlight, and women were getting them out left, right and center especially when the summer months arrived. Skirts were a popular sex appeal theme, but of course we are missing a major element of this era. Model Twiggy really stood out in the fashion world and rocked a skinny appearance that left a mark on the 60’s and other generations left to come.

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1970s

2000s

Big hair was in and wearing the bra was out. Thanks to legend Farrah Fawcett, the starlet rocked a whole new look, leaving women wanting to follow in her footsteps throughout the rest of the 70’s. Well done to you Fawcett.

The 2000’s was a whole new level when it came to revealing skin. We have reached a point in the timeline, where women revealing skin made it the most attractive part in their sex appeal of fashion. In this era, females would like to wear short crop tops to show off their toned tanned stomachs, but with also some jeans or a nice fashionable skirt to create the overall piece.

1980s

A whole new style of sex appeal was yet to arrive for women in the 80’s. It was attractive for women to wear fitness gear and be active in this fun era. If you were toned, and liked to show off a lot of skin like Pamela Anderson, then men and women around the world would define you as very sexy!

2010s +

Finally coming to a close of our timeline, we have reached the current decade. As you may have been aware, curves have been brought back and have been popular for a while now. The hour glass figure shape defines a great sex appeal look, and role models such as Kate Upton and Beyonce show an intense attractive side.

1990s

There were so many looks rocked in the 90’s that women could take their pick for almost anything. Icons such as Britney Spears, Kate Moss and Pamela Anderson all had different styles that defined pretty much what an iconic era the 90’s really was for fashion.

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KAMO

Starting from the bottom, the highly anticipated but stylish new fashion line KAM0 will start to turn heads as it starts to rise here in the UK. “Street style clothing with a refined edge”, the new and upcoming fashion line Kam0 is starting to make it big here in the UK. Couple Josh Silvester and Hannah Joce both found the love of designing fashion, and wanted to showcase their creativity together through the enjoyment of designing clothing and creating a business. Talking to Urbane in an exclusive interview, the couple share their journey and where they first began, in making this successful fashion line, and what’s to come next for Kam0.

Where did you first find a love for fashion?

Fashion is a platform for people to use and create a visual statement, somewhere to be heard, in an everyday piece of art. We work with fashion because of this, to create for the individual, something of our own.

And how did you go about in setting up your own fashion business?

We wanted to create something of our own, something we can be passionate about and grow. It is difficult to have your own creative freedom in the fashion industry when working for others, this way we can dictate what the designs will be. We began working on the brand together as a project and then it just made sense, strive to do exactly what we want for our careers, to be designers and grow a business together.

So in terms of who your business is aimed at to start with, are you based in a certain location or has Kam0 been made nationwide?

Kam0 first started in Plymouth and this is where we are based, however, we are looking to be a national brand coming from a local background. We are still in the process of developing Kam0, but we are also trying to become more popular and aware in Devon, before we tackle the beast of everywhere else in the UK.

Now with all fashion businesses, there must have been some significant highs and lows for the pair of you, what were the ones that stood out the most in terms of developing your fashion line? There has been many highs and lows, often they are the same thing. From hosting a kick ass event to launching our brand, the lows in all this made the highs better. We strive each day to make our business better, and we learn from the mistakes we made and thrive to improve our line everyday.

So what’s currently happening with Kam0 at the moment? We’ve learnt about the pair of you and what made you want to start this business, but here at Urbane we would love to know the latest news of the fashion line. We are currently working on our second collection to launch hopefully around May time for Spring Summer 19. We want to establish ourselves more in the fashion industry, grow our following and ultimately see our designs from the runway into peoples wardrobes.

Looking towards the fashion industry as a whole, what has been the most challenging thing for you, in terms of succeeding, and getting people to carry on purchasing your clothing?

Defining our values, getting what was in our heads out to the world. By speaking with other creatives from different industries, gaining insights, market research, and working with a mentor and definitely some self criticism we were able to overcome this.

Last but not least, do you have any advice for people who want to start their own fashion company in the future?

Establish your unique selling point from the start, strongly brand yourself to stand out from the sea of fashion brand, find your niche. Talk to people who are in the industry, especially those who have just moved up from the level you are at as it will be fresh in their minds, we cannot stress enough how important it is to talk to and surround yourself with motivated, creative minds. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to just get it out there and try it, learn from your own mistakes. If you like the look of Kam0,you can find their clothing online at www.kam0.co.uk , on Facebook @kam0clothing and Instagram @kam0clothing.

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‘‘Fashion is a platform for people to use and create a visual statement, somewhere to be heard, in an everyday piece of art.’’

Written by Hollie Manlow

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“It’s that little element of escapism that I enjoy so much. Wearing something that maybe wouldn’t be suitable for a trip to the supermarket, doing your makeup in ways you wouldn’t dare try out on any other occasion.’’


Katie Stephens URBANE | SUMMER 2019

Katie caught my eye on her instagram page back in 2018. It’s her erstwhile style and off piste presence that draws me to her. Congenial by nature, she was up for most things which makes my life ten times more exciting. On a 3 degree day she willingly hopped waist deep into a freezing river to get the right shot.

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caught up with Katie a few days after the shoot to ask her about life as an aspiring model and discuss how fashion has shaped her life. Any tips on how to prepare for a photoshoot? I’m pretty simple in terms of preparation, and this applies to my life in general as well as photo shoots. As long as I have freshly washed hair, I feel like my best self. I love looking through fashion magazines for inspiration, but ultimately it’s kind of nice to not be overly prepared because I find that if things are too ‘scripted’ you can miss out on the ad-hoc shots that are your winning frames. How would you describe your style? Music is really important to me, so I never want to ditch that rocker edge as I enter into full blown adulthood. If you follow me in instagram you’ll probably notice I’m a mash up of a Gossip Girl/LA Girl and someone who never left her inner emo behind. Do you ever look back at your past styles for inspiration? Sure, when I look back to when I was at college, I cringe sometimes. I knew who I was stylistically, but I didn’t always know how to achieve it. I often looked a hot mess. I used to go very overboard with layering, and nothing was off limits in terms of strange coloured tights. Girls in that age bracket now look so put together. But, as a creative person, I can see that time was really valuable because it was a learning curve. What is the biggest thing you’ve learnt over the years? As I’ve grown, high street fashion has been a staple for me - but also, at 5”8 I find some clothes don’t have the best fit. Labels set the tone, but I’m not in a position to deck myself out daily in outfits that cost thousands of pounds. Even if I was, I would still like to mix things up because it keeps you creative. I’ve actually become quite good at finding designer items in charity shops and for peanuts online, so there’s my little silver lining. What do you see for the future of fashion? I’m not sure that anything really fully goes out of fashion now, because people enjoy referencing the past and we all love a bit of nostalgia. Thatsaid, I would love to be able to wear a full out 1920s flapper look, and for it to be considered socially acceptable as I buy my groceries.

“I think of my style as a reflection of who I was, who I am, and who I want to be.’’ Photography and words by Abby Davies

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Sustainable Fashion

By Connie Cribb

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espite brands claiming to become 100 per cent circular by 2030, this industry is one of the largest polluting in the world. A large number of materials that are most common today are resource intensive. Cotton, for instance, requires a staggering amount of water and synthetic material, which are made from nonrenewable resources. Materials like viscose, lead to deforestation when used on a large scale, and endangering species. It is crucial that there is research being done to develop sustainable material. Not only for this industry, but the planet. Sustainable fashion has never been a quick fix or a trend that will pass. It requires commitment and dedication, and that is what Stella McCartney is taking on. McCartney is working alongside worldwide director of sustainability, Claire Bergkemp. She is visiting the farms and factories, meets start-ups that are using sustainable fashion and consults with experts. They are both sharing their philosophy to businesses and showing them a modern, solution-based approach. The focus is to act alongside others who are working to sincerely develop and promote change. The incorporation of being commited to the planet and maintaining a profitable brand is not clear cut. The rejection of fur in her designs has lost McCartney jobs and using certain materials. For example, sequins are inconceivable because she has to find a new environmentally friendly alternative of production, while counterbalancing the energy this development requires. “We are finding ways to go beyond just reducing our impact to actually having a positive impact – embracing things like regenerative agriculture and fighting climate change within the supply chain itself.� Claire Bergkemp.

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Currently, only one per cent of textiles are recycled. The fashion industry as a whole, has the ability to help the existential threat of climate change, by addressing its unsustainable practices.

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Seasonal Fabrics

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SPRING

For spring time, the winter cold is thawing, and summer is in sight. The transition between these two seasons may make it difficult to determine what materials and fabrics are the best for spring days. The natural fibre of cotton is a fabric that combines adaptability and comfort. Cotton allows the skin to breathe but does not retain the moisture and heat to the body. Its lightweight nature makes it an ideal, affordable choice for the spring.

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SUMMER The heat of the summer days can be uncomfortable and unbearable. During those summer days, breathable fabrics like cotton or linen are most appropriate. They are cool and water absorbent. The thin fabrics allows the skin to breathe easily and reduces irritability when it is humid. Look at the Ancient Egyptians, they wore linen tunics to survive the heat. Natural materials are best for controlling your temperature and are better against your skin. The materials to avoid are synthetic fibres, polyesters and polyester blends. These tend to be water repellent and adds to the discomfort when you perspire. Silk works the same way, despite the soft and smooth texture, it again repels water and creates a moist feeling, which then holds onto body odour. Nylon is another synthetic fibre that can be troublesome . This water-resistant material makes skin prone to chafing when you perspire, which is all too common during the summer.


URBANE | SUMMER 2019

AUTUMN Much like spring, autumn is an in-between season. Edging away from those summer evenings, to the dull, dark evenings of winter. Autumn is the season to implement thicker fabrics within clothing, such as corduroy or flannel. Corduroy acts as thicker form of cotton, with ‘wales’ imbedded into the fabric. Corduroy is best managed as a layering item combined with a lightweight fabric overtop. Flannel is a woven cloth, soft in nature, and mainly used in shirt form. Again, best used as a layering piece. Layering items of clothing is ideal for the Autumn season, as one can never know the weather direction of mother nature.

WINTER During the winter, you will need fabrics that retain the heat and creates a barrier against moisture. Fabrics like cotton and linen are too thin to preserve heat. Instead, choose materials like wool act as a perfect insulator. This thick fabric holds onto the heat whilst absorbing all the moisture, preventing you from getting cold. Unlike the summer season, synthetic, water resistant materials are most beneficial. The aspect to focus on is insulation; to block out the cold, dreary weather that our British winters consist of. Polyester is a material that is commonly found in the outermost layer of winter clothing because it does not have direct contact the skin and cause irritation, but still keeps the cold out.

By Connie Cribb

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FASHION

e g n d n a h A C 38


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ashion is more than the style, fit or trend. Over the years it has helped create who we are in the world and society. Fashion is a tool to be used when it comes to political and cultural changes as it can express modernity and often symbolises the current status of the times.

From the personal perspective fashion has been there to portray your personality and express who you are as an individual. It can be symbolic to your beliefs or can reflect your mood entirely. This of course is not the same for every person out there, but everyone has at some point been influenced, changed or even inspired by the fashion industry! Aside from how we choose to dress now, historically fashion was there to serve the classes and what level of society you were, from being only allowed to wear certain colours to only wearing what you can afford. This can sometimes be seen in fashion today – with the race of cheap disposable fashion against the expensive big labels. However, I do believe society have moved on from this slightly and prefers to be more accepting of people’s individual dress sense, rather than focusing on what a person can afford. Fashion not only evokes change within ourselves (sometimes seen by changing our persona or style) but it evokes change politically and culturally. Recently international women’s day has shown this, by reflecting on how far women have come in history. As women have become more liberated from stereotypes, the fashion has changed with it. Adopting shorter skirt lengths, being able to wear androgynous fashion, and celebrating who we are and what we represent. Furthermore, with the red carpet for the Golden Globes 2018 being walked by many celebrities, many of them used fashion- wearing all blackto show their solidarity and views on sexual harassment and assault, to try and influence change - politically and culturally - by the ‘Times Up’ movement. There are many cases similar to this, where fashion was used as a tool to advocate – Slogan Tees, Berets, peace symbols all included, which still remain in our trends today, and still continue to advocate the campaign in which they started from. With this rise, Fashion is being used more and each time to a different purpose, belief and identity. Fashion is constantly changing in itself through styles and trends. Although Fashion changes political, cultural and economic ways of the world. It’s a circle. Politics, culture and economy also influence fashion. Just like fashion, these factors never stay the same. With all that said, take some time to reflect on how your fashion has evolved over the years. I’m sure the majority of you will be able to say that you too have changed! Perhaps some of you will also be able to say you assisted political change- for example- with the help of slogan tees or how you dress! With this change, there is more to come!

Photography and words by Jasmine Butler

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F Fashion

is a versatile subject, understood and embraced by many. The modification and influence fashion has seen in decades past, has been formidable. Year after year, trends have taken over pop culture and inspired style icons of that time. Fashion and the evolution over the years has been a form of expression for some and a mode of stature for others. To be stylish or fashionable in preceding years, was a correlation to one’s wealth. As the 1920’s began, and the mind takes you to the Great Gatsby and Jazz era of music and parties, fashion became liberated. Coco Chanel introduced pivotal trends that are still popular today; the little black dress, espadrilles and costume jewellery. She was also a significant component to the liberation movement, from removing corsets as casual attire to normalising trousers for women. This androgynous trend of dressing saw its way into the 1940’s, furthered by Katherine Hepburn’s style of ‘masculine shirt’ and loose-fitting trousers. Ten years later, Christian Dior had introduced one of fashion’s staple pieces, the pencil skirt. An item donned by First Lady of the time, Jackie Kennedy. The 1960’s became an era of rebellion and upheaval within the fashion industry. Something not yet seen in previous decades. The mini skirt came into fruition, mod fashion, with its bright colours and psychedelic prints, was introduced by Emilio Pucci. The 1960’s allowed individuals to experiment with fashion and not conform to certain societal expectations. Trends from the 1970’s have taken a cyclical journey. The trends of tighter, longer trousers, ankle length loose skirts, and embroidery pieces are becoming recognised again, with thanks to stores like Biba and Laura Ashley, 40 years on. When one thinks of the 1980’s, trends like platform shoes and disco pants come to mind. Distressed denim and leather jackets marked with spikes and studs. Vivienne Westwood took fashion into the punk era and delved into the experimental practice of style. The power from clothing was evident, not just from the potentially harmful accessorises attached to them, but the freedom for women to don oversized blazers and big shoulder pads. Music was even an influential agent in fashion, from the Sex Pistols to Madonna. This was further put into action in the 90’s, with artists like Nirvana and Marilyn Manson, who popularised what it was to dress gothic. The minimalistic, baggy jeans with bold hairstyles was just not enough for some individuals. Most trends come and go, they reappear and disappear in an instant. The need to hold a sense of originality is infiltrating the fashion choices we make, but it is safe to say, what we wear would have been popular or fashionable of one time. Much like every other decision we make, style changes with age. What we discover we like or are comfortable in isn’t a science. Fashion understands that, fashion is constantly allowing us to be safe, controversial, original or creative. By Connie Cribb

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New York Fashion URBANE | SUMMER 2019

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Week Bridal Wear URBANE | SUMMER 2019

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ooking for inspiration for weddings on pinterest or Instagram? Look no further for wedding dress trends than New York Fashion Week. Packed full of a variety of styles that will suit any bride. For 2019 we have some classic styles coming back - with many designers taking inspiration from Megan Markles royal wedding. Clean lines and simple silouhettes make a striking statement. With previous years having a lead on lace, satin is back to take the spotlight. Satin dresses are easily adaptable for any trend or style of wedding, and can be paired with any shoes or accessories of choice. You can dress down with simple earings or dress for royalty with diamond belt and shoes. As well as the simple satin style, we also have boho vibes with shorteR and light flowing dresses. This is perfect for any beach or outdoor weddings as it can keep you feeling light and refreshed throughout the big day.

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Profile for Jasmine Butler

URBANE - Summer Issue 2019  

URBANE magazine, all about the artistry of Fashion. Get behind the scenes of the fashion industry, with exclusive interviews with up and com...

URBANE - Summer Issue 2019  

URBANE magazine, all about the artistry of Fashion. Get behind the scenes of the fashion industry, with exclusive interviews with up and com...

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