ISSUE 3 | SUMMER 2015
SUMMER WINES BURSTING WITH FRUITY FLAVOURS EASY PEASY HOME COCKTAILS
A TOUCH OF LUXURY
CLASSIC WINES REVIEWED
OUR EXPERT GUIDE TO PARTY WINE
THIS SUMMER’S FAVOURITE ARTISAN BEERS
WIN A TRIP TO AN ITALIAN VINEYARD! FAIR VERONA IS WAITING FOR YOU AS A GUEST OF MONDO DEL VINO
000 Uncorked_Summer_Covers_v11_KJ.indd 13
WELCOME TO THE BAROSSA VALLEY
From a name that proudly symbolises the Barossa Valley, our wines capture the distinctive elegance, finesse and vibrant fruit flavours of one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions.
Experience the wines that made the Barossa great.
E X P E R I E N C E B A R O S S A VA L L E Y E S TAT E SHIRAZ
GRE NACHE SHIR A Z MOURVÈ DRE w w w. b a r o s s a va l l eye s ta te. c o m DEL4876
he summer is upon us and for some curious reason many people switch to drinking white wines, as they consider red wine to be a winter drink. I can understand the appeal of a cool glass of Abellio Albariño on a sunny day, and Kevin O’Callaghan has come up with some delightful matches for white wine and fish on page 27, but don’t abandon red altogether. As the sun dips below the horizon, blessedly late this far north, and the embers of your barbecue gently crackle, there’s nothing quite like a slowly sipped glass of Amarone from Italy. Check out our mini tour of Italy on page 3 and our visit to the Italian wine producers Mondo del Vino on page 31. We have plenty of ideas for a luxury treat on page 22, some chillaxing artisan beers on page 18 and the last word in quirky summer cocktails on page 13. All we need now is the sun.
MONDO DEL VINO
Ross Golden-Bannon shows why Italian
Business Post, talks to a family
wines are an ideal starting point to explore
company who are bringing Italy’s
diverse wines to our shelves.
SPECIAL OCCASION WINES
WIN A TRIP TO AN ITALIAN VINEYARD
Tomás Clancy, of the Sunday
Whether it’s a big birthday bash or a BBQ,
Mondo del Vino will be your host
wine expert Raymond Blake shares his top
on a weekend trip and a tour of
picks for special parties.
one of their best vineyards.
CHIC & EASY COCKTAILS
Q&A WITH KEVIN O’CALLAGHAN
Expert mixologist Oisin Davis serves up a
SuperValu wine expert Kevin
summery selection of cocktails that can be
O’Callaghan answers the most
made in advance.
popular questions he gets on SuperValu’s social media.
ROSS GOLDEN-BANNON Editor, Uncorked PS Please remember to drink responsibly. You only need a little of a very good wine. Follow us on
BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO CRAFT BEER Do you know your ABV from your IBU? Sláinte author Kristin Jensen gives you an A to Z primer of craft beer terms.
Editor Ross Golden-Bannon Sub-editor Kristin Jensen Designer Jane Mulholland Cover Photography Harry Weir Photographer’s Assistant Brian Clarke SuperValu Food Leadership Brand Manager Caitriona Hayes Assistant Brand Manager Yvonne O’Brien Published by Musgrave Retail Partners Ireland, Tramore Road, Cork. © Musgrave Ltd
TREAT YOURSELF Renowned wine writer Marilyn Bright extols the virtues of a really good wine treat and suggests some indulgent food
You’ll find the Specially Sourced label on over 320 of our wines. That means we’ve met the winemakers, we particularly loved their wines and they also match our principles of products of integrity. The wines are exclusive to us, so you won’t find them anywhere else either. Note: Some of the wines featured in this magazine are only available in selected stores.
WINE & FISH We’ve picked our favourite seafood Prices correct at time of going to print. Offers available in participating stores only, while stocks last. Customer quotas may apply.
Keep an eye out for this symbol!
dishes and matched them with some star-studded wines.
Look for our promotions throughout the summer. Taste them now so you can stock up when they’re on offer!
he first wines I tasted with any real understanding of flavour and provenance were classic French wines and the odd German one. Back when people ordered Claret and Hock, I was lucky enough to be a waiter in a little bistro in Malahide where two Irish sisters served classic regional French food with classic French wine. I had my first thoughtful tastes of wine back then. Italian wines were a later discovery for me, and if I loved French classics, then I lusted after Italian reds. Wine journeys that start in France will give you an understanding of how much the French love to classify. But gird your loins for crossing the border to Italy, where youâ€™ll find an equally refined wine culture. Indeed, Italy boasts the widest variety of indigenous grapes of any wine-producing country in the world. The climate and terroir are diverse and the wine
The diversity of Italian wines make them an ideal starting point for those wishing to explore new flavours, says Ross Golden-Bannon. SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 3
003 Uncorked_Summer 2015_Italian Wine_KJ_V9.indd 3
styles outstrip their Gallic neighbours by far. But then it gets messy. The diversity of labelling and local regulations are bewildering, with many producers only offering an obscure regional name as a clue of where the wine comes from. That said, there is a labelling system that will help you work out the expected quality of the wine (see the panel below), from the highest level of DOCG and DOC quality to more everyday wines found under the IGT and Vino da Tavola labels. Then there’s the language of grapes as a guide. Few countries offer such an exciting diversity and uniqueness of flavours as Italy does. Italy has long been famous for its quality red wines, and lovers of reds will have seen an evolving culture that now places more emphasis on quality than quantity. Their reputation for white wine production began to change in the 1960s, with more modern white wines entering the fray. These crisp and fresh wines have been finessed over the years to the point where the likes of Soave and Verdicchio are jostling with many other quality white wine producers. There are delights everywhere in Italy. Your only problem will be where to start. I’ve listed some suggestions here and of course there’s more to explore on the shelves of your local SuperValu.
DOCG Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita controlled designation of origin guaranteed Wines with this label are considered to be amongst Italy’s best.
Prosecco is Italy’s favourite sparkler. It should be drunk young and is generally a dry tipple that’s ideal as an apéritif, though Italians are happy for it to appear at all occasions. The name comes from the little village of Prosecco near Trieste, where the drink originated.
Sicily BEHIND THE LABELS DOC Denominazione di Origine Controllata controlled designation of origin
IGT Indicazione Geografica Tipica indication of typical locality
Wines whose production methods and origin are strictly controlled for quality. Often very traditional wines.
This is essentially like a French Vin de Pays: wines from a designated region but with higher yields.
Vino da Tavola table wine This is Italy’s everyday wine category.
4 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
003 Uncorked_Summer 2015_Italian Wine_KJ_V9.indd 4
Try This with
Porter house steak
Piccini Bianco Toscana 2013 €9.99
Terrazze Della Luna, Pinot Grigio, 2013, Trentino DOC €17.99
Sartori, Valpolicella Ripasso, Superiore 2012 €14.99
Piantaferro Primitivo di Manduria DOC €13.99
To be enjoyed young and with friends in the summer, this wine has a light and pleasing citrus-herby flavour with a gentle acidic frame and smooth mouthfeel. An ideal apéritif.
Refreshing acidity, with lime notes and minerality. A good quaffing wine but even better with food to cut through buttery fish sauces and creamy pasta dishes.
If you like the big, rich, cherry velvet flavours of Amarone but feel the budget doesn’t stretch, then Ripasso is your only man. There’s a magic balance of bitter, sweet and savoury. One to savour as the sun sets with some robust beef dishes, a plate of cured meats or even strongly flavoured cheeses.
A first taste of this treat immediately reveals a burst of plum flavours that give away to a gentle heat of some spicing. Elegant tannins subtly frame a rich darkness that will work well with barbecued steak or a rich tomato sauced dish.
SUMMER SPECIALS LOOK FOR OUR PROMOTIONS THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER. TASTE THEM NOW SO YOU CAN STOCK UP WHEN THEY’RE ON OFFER!
A GEOGRAPHY LESSON
Besides the more obvious advantage of all that sunshine, Italy is blessed with other geographical characteristics ideal for wine growing. The country stretches from the Alps in the north to within sight of Africa. This means grapes that flourish in either searing heat or cooler climates can be cultivated. Italy is a peninsula, so the majority of its borders are shoreline, which helps cool the coastal winegrowing regions. The complexity of mountain ranges, valleys and foothills means grapes can be grown in a wide variety of altitudes and soil conditions. Historical regional pride has preserved numerous local grape varieties.
Masi Amarone €37.99 The famous Masi house has been making Amarone to the highest standards for generations, and this is no exception. The complex and rich flavours of baked fruits, spices, cherry and much more are cut through with a high alcohol content, so this is one for long chats and gentle sipping as our late northern summer sun dips below the horizon.
Piccini Toscana Chianti DOCG €12.99 Sometimes when you taste a wine, a scene springs to mind. For this dried fruitflavoured Chianti with soft tannins, I’m sitting with a thin-crust pizza topped with cured meats. It isn’t clear if I’m actually sharing these classic Chianti flavours with anybody else.
Try This with Serrano pizza
The village of Fontia with the cooling Apennine Mountains in the background.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 5
003 Uncorked_Summer 2015_Italian Wine_KJ_V9.indd 5
IS IT A GRAPE
OR A WINE?
QUICK GUIDE Who are the Super Tuscans?
With every great brand comes the hipster alternative, and Super Tuscans are just that. They are the big reds, mostly fromTuscany, that have ignored the traditional local regulations of the DOCG. The traditional wines from the region must agree to use particular methods and grapes, and once you step outside those rules, you lose the DOCG label. The problem for the wine maker is that it means their creativity can be stifled. In the 1950s wine makers began to step outside the strict rules to experiment with new grapes as well as parcels of land outside the required zones. However, as they were producing premium-quality wines, they needed to distinguish themselves from the simpler Vino da Tavola, or table wine producers, so they called themselves Super Tuscans.
Valpolicella is a wine-producing region in Verona, east of Lake Garda. The red wine called Valpolicella is made from the indigenous Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara red wine grapes. Corvina struts the stage in Valpolicella, making up to 75 per cent of the blend and giving it the distinctive sour cherry notes. Rondinella gives depth and some herby notes and the Molinara gives some spice and the all-important acidity. The Amarone and Recioto styles of wine also come from this region (see the panel).
Vineyards in Valpolicella, Verona, Italy.
Try This with a big bowl of mussels
There are different styles of Pinot Grigio, but lovers of the dry, savoury version as opposed to the more fruity ones of, say, France or Sicily will find plenty to explore in northern Italy. The high mountains and cooler climate of the north ensure a high acidity and lip-smacking mineral refreshment. Ideally matched with a sunny sky and a big bowl of chowder or mussels.
The combination of dried grapes and a rich, robust red makes Amarone very distinctive, especially in the aromatics. Think of a kaleidoscope that slides from prune, date and black walnut to more savoury elements like soy sauce, meaty black pepper flavours and everything in between. The best Amarones age like a charm and it is often paired with heavy, robust dishes.
Many Valpolicella wines are lighter red wines, drunk while still young, but in the 1950s an unusual method of wine making was rediscovered and finessed. Ripasso, which means repassed, uses the leftover seeds and grape skins from the Recioto and Amarone fermentation and is combined with grapes from the Valpolicella region to create wines of greater complexity and depth. If you love Amarone, a Ripasso wine will give you some of those flavours but at a much lower price.
The village of Barolo, Langhe, Piedmont.
Barolo, Barbaresco and Nebbiolo
Sometimes a grape is also the name of a wine. Nebbiolo is just such a wine from Piedmont, where youâ€™ll find two wine regions called Barolo and Barbaresco whose wines are made from the Nebbiolo grape. Descriptions of the grapeâ€™s characteristics may stretch incredulity for wine beginners, but once the wine matures they really can express an extraordinary array of notes and flavours, from roses, tar, violets, herbs, cherries and raspberries to prunes, tobacco and truffles.
Drying grapes for Amarone at Masi vineyard, Gargagnano, Veneto.
Amarone and Recioto are the epitome of the wine styles made in the Valpolicella region. Corvina and Rondinella grapes, along with others, are dried off the vine, usually on straw. The drying concentrates the sweetness, giving the wines a distinctive raisin flavour. Recioto is the sweet version, while Amarone is allowed to ferment until all almost all the sugars are turned to alcohol. Amarone is a magisterially flavoured wine with a grand sweep of flavours from figs and raisins through to earthy chocolate, almost tipping at the door of a port.
6 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
003 Uncorked_Summer 2015_Italian Wine_KJ_V9.indd 6
Special Occasion WINES
Raymond Blake, author of Breakfast in Burgundy, shares his top picks for special parties. As a member of the Circle of Wine Writers and a Chevalier du Tastevin in Burgundy, he knows a thing or two about vino. 8 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
08-10 Uncorked Summer_Raymond Blake_KJ_v11.indd 8
Nugan Estate, Vision Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 14%, €11.99
Where the flavours of our Portuguese Pair are light and tingly, these Nugan wines are richer and fuller and more suited to a sit-down meal with a smaller number of guests. For some years now it has been all the rage to affect pseudo sophistication by refusing to drink Chardonnay, which simply leaves more of this tropical fruit and gentle touchof-spice treat for the rest of us. Then move on to the vigorous flavours of the Cabernet: dark fruit, some oaky notes, appealing concentration and good length.
Nugan Estate, Vision Chardonnay 2012 14%, €11.99
SUMMER SPECIALS LOOK FOR OUR PROMOTIONS THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER. TASTE THEM NOW SO YOU CAN STOCK UP WHEN THEY’RE ON OFFER!
Portugal is an ancient and varied wine-producing nation, yet in this country we continue to ignore the extraordinary range of wine made there, often from grapes that are almost unheard of elsewhere. This pair come from the Lisbon region and share much in common: tingling fruit, juicy freshness and a commendably light hit of alcohol, which makes them perfect for casual sipping.
Coreto Branco 2013 11.5%, €9.99
Coreto Tinto 2011 11.5%, €9.99
ome entertaining comes in many guises: a significant birthday, a christening, an engagement or even, for the bravest of hosts, a wedding. Choosing wine for such an occasion doesn’t need to be a trial, so long as one simple precept is adhered to: stay away from that funky little number you’re simply dying to introduce your friends to. Broad appeal is what you’re after. The wines shouldn’t be too ‘serious’ either. Wines for home entertaining (unless the occasion is very special, with only a small number of guests) need to have some youthful bounce and exuberance to them – their place is in the chorus, not centre stage. And with summer upon us, there’s also the barbecue. Smoky, charred flavours need to be taken into account when selecting wines. They need to have some vivacity on the palate, either in the form of juicy acid for the whites or crisp tannins for the reds. With all of that in mind, here are five versatile pairs that won’t let you down when you open your doors to family and friends in the coming months.
Rare Vineyards, Marsanne Viognier 2013 12.5%, €12.99
You’re tired of the beaten path, the middle of the road, the usual suspects. You want to be adventurous yet safe at the same time. You want to ring the changes but you’re not sure how. Here’s how. Head south in France to the Pays d’Oc (formerly Vin de Pays d’Oc) in search of wines such as these. The Marsanne Viognier blend is replete with luscious tropical fruits enhanced by some floral hints that will charm your guests’ taste buds. Malbec is best known as the signature red grape of Argentina, but its origins are French and this one boasts oodles of ripe fruit in a robust, full-flavoured package.
Rare Vineyards, Malbec 2013 13%, €12.99
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 9
08-10 Uncorked Summer_Raymond Blake_KJ_v11.indd 9
Armas de Guerra, Mencia 2013 13%, €11.99
Where some wines major on sumptuous, rich flavours, often derived from super-ripe grapes and lashings of oak, the Armas de Guerra sings a different song. It hails from Bierzo in northwest Spain and is made from the Mencia grape, which is noted for its chiselled, precise flavour. As a wake-up call for a jaded palate, it could hardly be bettered. The Rioja, on the other hand, delivers the traditional taste of Spain: savoury warm fruit, soft texture and lingering flavour on the finish.
There’s hardly a grape more suited to, and more associated with, outdoor summer drinking than Sauvignon Blanc. A zippy, sherbet freshness is its calling card, and when the sun comes calling a chilled glass of Sauvignon in the garden is just the ticket. Try this one with a summer salad, or better still, a baked goat’s cheese tart with salad on the side. Its sibling, Cabernet, is lighter in style and structure than the Nugan. If you’re serving it outdoors and the sun is splitting the stones, don’t be afraid to serve it a little cool – not cold, just cool.
Finca Labarca, Rioja Crianza 2010 14%, €11.99
Aresti, Sauvignon Blanc 2013 12.5%, €10.99
Aresti, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 13%, €10.99
TOP TIP TO SAVE ON ANY PARTY EMBARRASSMENT IT’S BEST TO OVER ORDER AND BUY YOUR WINE ON A SALE OR RETURN BASIS. ASK INSTORE FOR MORE DETAILS.
Unless you’re planning to invite Our Lord, whose party trick at the wedding feast at Cana 2,000 years ago is still being talked about, it’s better to have too much rather than too little wine. The old rule of thumb when calculating quantities of wine for a large group was half a bottle per head, but recent experience suggests that this may be a little on the modest side. Bear in mind that the format of the event will influence the amount required. A sit-down lunch with a structured menu won’t need as much wine as an openended event such as a barbecue where, if the weather obliges, the celebrations can continue, long and liquid, well into the evening. A batting average of a bottle per head could easily be reached on such an occasion.
Time was when screwcaps were greeted with screwed-up faces and looks of disdain, and no self-respecting host would dare serve a screwcapped wine to valued family and friends. Not any more. Screwcaps are now mainstream and oh so handy, especially when entertaining a large group at home. Eight of the 10 wines recommended here are sealed with a screwcap, so now there is plenty of choice where once it was quite limited. Just think, in the middle of your party there will be no more “Who took the corkscrew?” or “Where did I leave the corkscrew?” or, worse still, “Who broke the corkscrew?”
10 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
08-10 Uncorked Summer_Raymond Blake_KJ_v11.indd 10
PARTY TIPS FIRST THINGS FIRST: GET ORGANISED. SET A BUDGET, MAKE AN INVITATION LIST, PLAN THE MENU AND DECIDE ON A THEME IF YOU’RE HAVING ONE. YOU CAN EVEN DO THINGS LIKE PLAN THE MUSIC PLAYLIST AND YOUR OUTFIT IN ADVANCE.
In the age of e-mail, there’s nothing like an old-fashioned invitation sent in the post to lend a sense of occasion to a party.
Delegate and outsource whatever you can. This might be just the excuse you need to hire some professional cleaners to give the house a good going over.
Don’t forget your younger guests! Why not cover a table in butcher’s paper and set out jam jars of crayons at each place setting to let kids create a DIY tablecloth? Or if the weather is good, hire a bouncy castle.
It’s worth making an extra effort for a special homemade main course, but snacks, starters and desserts could be bought in. But you might be surprised at how many recipes can be made ahead, like Kevin Dundon’s orange chocolate pots in our summer Fresh magazine.
TAKE ADVANTAGE OF ALL YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY BEING IN THE SAME PLACE AT THE SAME TIME AND HIRE A PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER, EITHER TO TAKE SOME SNAPS AT THE PARTY ITSELF OR FOR A MORE FORMAL FAMILY PORTRAIT ON A DIFFERENT DAY.
Little things can make a big difference when you host a party at home. Make your special occasion extra special with our top tips. IF YOU’RE THROWING A BIG BASH AT HOME, LET YOUR NEIGHBOURS KNOW IN ADVANCE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU THINK THE PARTY IS LIKELY TO BE LOUD OR IF PARKING MAY POSE A PROBLEM.
Paper plates and plastic cutlery are perfectly fine for a casual barbecue, but a special occasion calls for something more refined. If you don’t have enough delph, check out the homeware section of your local SuperValu for extra plates or stemware.
Start the party on the right foot by welcoming your guests with a celebratory glass of bubbly. After that, you could set up a well-stocked selfservice bar for guests to help themselves. Or if you really want to push the boat out, consider hiring a cocktail bartender, who might even create a signature drink for your event.
Do as much as you can ahead of time, from setting the table and decorating to prepping and cooking whatever can be made in advance. And after all your hard work, don’t forget to relax and enjoy yourself on the day. A happy host will help make sure the guests have a good time too.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 11
08-10 Uncorked Summer_Raymond Blake_KJ_v11.indd 11
Try a & tonic
The TANQUERAY TANQUERAY words and associated logos are trade marks. ÂŠ Diageo 2015.
TANQ_MSG.indd 1 Untitled-4 1
01/05/2015 04/05/2015 16:09 19:23
We love cocktails, but we don’t love expensive ingredients that linger in the cupboard long after the party is over. We asked expert mixologist Oisin Davis to come up with some party-friendly cocktails. He didn’t disappoint us with this summery selection that can be made in advance and served from a jug. Easy. POMEGRANATE PUNCH SERVES 10 1 litre pomegranate juice 350ml clear rum 4 SuperValu limes, sliced and cut into quarters 50g SuperValu fresh ginger, washed and cut into matchsticks 250ml ginger ale 1 SuperValu pomegranate, seeds only
Pour the juice and rum into a large bowl or pot and stir. Add the sliced limes and fresh ginger. Cover and let it sit overnight in the fridge. When ready to serve, pour into a jug with some ice. Stir in the ginger ale and garnish with the fresh pomegranate seeds.
INTE! SLÁ If you want extra spice with this drink, throw in a few star anise. They add some lovely depth.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 13
013 Uncorked_Summer_Cocktails_KJ_V13.indd 13
NEW YORK BLOODY MARY
Oisin Davis Oisin Davis’ s work in the drinks industry is as varied as his cocktail knowledge. He’s commissioned by drinks brands to work on new products and he travels around the world teaching bartenders how to make cocktails with Irish whiskey. Back in his hometown of Dublin, he’s established a run of city-wide festivals, such as Dublin Gin & Tonic Fest, and he even finds time to write several cocktail columns. If you tune in to Tom Dunne on Newstalk every Thursday night, you’ll hear him mixing cocktails and sharing recipes between the mellow tunes. www.facebook.com/GreatIrishBeverages
SERVES 7 1 litre SuperValu Tomato Juice 250ml vodka 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon SuperValu Horseradish Sauce 1 tablespoon SuperValu Caster Sugar 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce 1 teaspoon SuperValu coarsely ground black pepper ½ teaspoon Sharwoods Celery Salt
Place the tomato juice, vodka, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish, sugar, Tabasco, pepper and celery salt in a jug. Blitz for about 20 seconds with a handheld blender. You can make this the night before and place it in the fridge without ice. You can prep your garnish in advance too (see below). If making for arriving guests, add some ice and stir with a spoon to chill it all down. For each serving, place some ice in a long glass and pour in the drink. Garnish each drink by taking a bamboo skewer and placing a celery slice, a cherry tomato and a cooked prawn on it. Place the skewer in the drink along with a lemon slice.
h Bl o o d y M s i n ar Spa ADD HALF A SHOT OF TÍO PEPE TO THE BLOODY MARY MIX. IT GIVES A SOPHISTICATED, DEEPER, SMOKY NOTE TO THE FLAVOURS.
Ma k ea
celery slices, cherry tomatoes, cooked prawns and lemon slices, to garnish
INTE! SLÁ If you want to give your Bloody Mary a little extra attitude, try using the habanero or chipotle varieties of Tabasco sauce. Spicy, but delish.
14 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
013 Uncorked_Summer_Cocktails_KJ_V13.indd 14
200ml dry gin
1 litre SuperValu Pineapple Juice 350ml clear rum 250ml coconut water 4 SuperValu limes, juice only 2 SuperValu limes, sliced and cut into quarters ½ SuperValu fresh pineapple, cut into bite-size pieces
25ml dry martini 1 stick of SuperValu rhubarb, sliced 1 SuperValu lemon, sliced 1 tablespoon SuperValu Caster Sugar 1 x 750ml bottle SuperValu Signature Tastes Sicilian Lemonade
Place all the ingredients into a jug or bowl with lots of ice and stir to chill.
Place the gin, martini, rhubarb, lemon and sugar in a jug with a lid or in a Kilner jar. Add a fistful of ice, seal the jug or jar and shake it for about 20 seconds. Chill in the fridge for a few hours to let all the flavours infuse. When ready to serve, add the lemonade.
INTE! SLÁ The citrus in the gin and the tartness from the rhubarb mean this drink pairs well with light chicken or fish dishes.
CUCUMBER COLLINS SERVES 4 50ml elderflower cordial 1 ½ SuperValu lemons, juice only 3 tablespoons SuperValu Caster Sugar ½ SuperValu cucumber, sliced ½ SuperValu lemon, sliced, to garnish 150ml dry gin 750ml SuperValu Sparkling Water
Pour the elderflower cordial into a deep bowl with the lemon juice and sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Place half of the sliced cucumbers into the bowl. Using a potato masher, crush the cucumbers into the mix for about 1 minute. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain all the liquid into a punch bowl. Stir in the gin with plenty of ice and top up with sparkling water. Garnish with the lemon slices and the rest of the cucumbers.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 15
013 Uncorked_Summer_Cocktails_KJ_V13.indd 15
If you’ve got a big BBQ or summer party on, you can easily increase the amounts here and store them overnight in a pot in your fridge. The flavours in this drink pair beautifully with seasonal pork dishes. Just remember to leave the ice to the last minute.
SERVES 6 1 stick of SuperValu rhubarb, sliced 1 litre SuperValu Pressed Apple Juice 200ml Irish whiskey 2 SuperValu lemons 4 tablespoons SuperValu Honey
Place half of the rhubarb in a deep bowl along with the apple juice, whiskey, the juice from 1 ½ lemons and the honey. Slice the remaining lemon half and set aside. Using a handheld blender, blitz everything in the bowl for about 10 seconds. Strain with a finemesh sieve and pour it into a jug or punch bowl with the rest of the rhubarb and the lemon slices. Drop in some ice and stir to chill.
2 3 PIMM’S & GINGER SERVES 8 750ml SuperValu Ginger Ale 250ml Pimm’s 10 SuperValu fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped
6 SuperValu strawberries, topped and sliced ½ SuperValu lemon, sliced and cut into small pieces ½ SuperValu orange, sliced and cut into small pieces ½ SuperValu cucumber, diced
Place all the ingredients in a jug with ice and stir. Pour into an iced glass.
If you’re feeling a little bold and naughty, a wee shot of gin will take this up a notch! Pimm’s itself is made with gin, so it pairs very well with it.
16 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
013 Uncorked_Summer_Cocktails_KJ_V13.indd 16
RASPBERRY RUM FIZZ
4 SuperValu limes, juice only 4 tablespoons SuperValu Caster Sugar 2 punnets SuperValu fresh raspberries 200ml clear rum 750ml SuperValu Signature Tastes Sicilian Lemonade 1 SuperValu lime, sliced, to garnish
Pour the lime juice into a deep bowl with the sugar. Stir to make a paste. Rinse the raspberries and place half of them in the bowl. Using a potato masher, crush them until all the juice has been released.
Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain the mix into a jug. Pour in the rum and stir with plenty of ice before topping up with the lemonade. Garnish with the remaining raspberries and the sliced limes.
ELDERFLOWER ROYALE SERVES 1 1 tablespoon elderflower cordial 100ml Prosecco
INTE! SLÁ You don’t have to make these individually. Feel free to pour the whole bottle of Prosecco into a long jug with the cordial to make a bigger batch, but do this at the last minute or you’ll lose all your bubbles.
1 slice SuperValu lemon, to garnish
Chill your glass in the fridge with some ice in it. When ready to serve, remove the ice, pour the cordial into the glass and top up with the Prosecco. Garnish with a lemon slice.
INTE! SLÁ If you fancy something a little richer, replace the caster sugar with golden sugar for a more intense taste.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 17
013 Uncorked_Summer_Cocktails_KJ_V13.indd 17
Beginner’s guide to
Do you know your ABV from your IBU? Kristin Jensen, co-author of Sláinte, gives you an A to Z primer of craft beer.
ust 10 years ago there was only a handful of microbreweries in Ireland, which struggled to establish a foothold in the market. Now there are almost 50 craft breweries, and the only struggle is the struggle to meet demand. If you’ve found yourself standing in the off-licence wondering where to start or what to make of all the new craft beers crowding the shelves, here’s a quick guide to some of the most common terms used when talking about beer.
18 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
18-21 Uncorked Summerr_Beer_KJ_v5.indd 18
This stands for alcohol by volume and is a measurement of how much alcohol is in a drink. Most beers come in at around 5% ABV.
Bottle-conditioned beer undergoes an additional fermentation and conditioning in the bottle, resulting in a naturally carbonated beer. You’ll often see a thin layer of yeast sediment at the bottom of the bottle.
ADDING HOPS TO THE BEER AT A LOW TEMPERATURE TOWARDS THE END OF THE FERMENTATION PROCESS, WHEN THEY ARE LEFT TO INFUSE THE BEER FOR SEVERAL DAYS OR WEEKS, BOOSTS HOP AROMA AND FLAVOUR BUT WITHOUT THE BITTERNESS THAT’S DRAWN OUT BY HEAT.
h I Hops
The female flowers of the hop plant give beer its bitterness and give ales and IPAs their trademark piney, citrusy and floral flavours and aromas. Bitter hops also counterbalance the sweetness of the malt.
THE BUBBLES IN BEER ARE PRODUCED BY CARBON DIOXIDE. CARBONATION IS WHAT GIVES BEER ITS ‘SCRUBBING BUBBLES’ PROPERTY THAT REFRESHES YOUR PALATE WHEN YOU DRINK BEER WITH A MEAL.
This stands for international bitterness units. It’s a scale that measures the bitterness of a beer. In general, a beer with a low IBU, like a lager, will taste less bitter than a beer with a high IBU, like an IPA.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 19
18-21 Uncorked Summerr_Beer_KJ_v5.indd 19
HAVE YOU EVER NOTICED THE FOAM THAT CLINGS TO THE SIDES OF THE GLASS AS YOU CONTINUE TO SIP YOUR BEER? THAT’S WHAT LACING IS.
The rich, creamy head and smooth mouthfeel of mainstream stouts come from the nitrogen gas used in the carbonation process. Nitrogenation isn’t widely used by microbreweries, so don’t expect to get that same thick, lingering head on a craft beer.
YOU’VE HEARD OF CORKED WINE: SKUNKED BEER IS THE EQUIVALENT THE MORE TECHNICAL TERM IS LIGHT STRIKE. WHEN UV LIGHT REACTS WITH HOP COMPOUNDS IT PRODUCES CATTY OR SKUNKY FLAVOURS OR AROMAS, SO STORE YOUR BEER AWAY FROM SUNLIGHT.
The microbe magicians that turn sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. All beer is divided into one of two categories depending on which type of yeast is used: ale yeast or lager yeast.
20 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
18-21 Uncorked Summerr_Beer_KJ_v5.indd 20
Malt is the backbone of beer. Malt is cereal grains, usually barley, that are soaked in water, then heated and dried (malted) to develop the desired characteristics, from the bready flavours of pale malts used in lagers to the chocolate or roasted coffee flavours of the dark malts used in stouts.
A fancy term for the things that make beer smell. The head on a beer catches delicate volatiles in its net of bubbles, which is one of the reasons why you should always pour beer into a glass instead of drinking it from the bottle so that you can better appreciate the aroma.
THIS IS ONE FOR THE PUB QUIZ OR TO IMPRESS YOUR SCRABBLE OPPONENTS. IT MEANS THE ART OF FERMENTATION, AS IN BREWING BEER, MAKING WINE OR DISTILLING.
Cloughmore Granite Lager
Underneath the standard biscuity, yeasty aroma of a lager, you might detect a little green apple too. Crisp and refreshing, this is the perfect crowdpleasing lager for your next BBQ.
Brewdog Five AM Red Ale
If you think you know red ale, this one will surprise you. The aroma is a heady mix of cedar and orange citrus, while the flavour is of roses, grapefruit and more of a bitter, hoppy bite than you might be expecting. It’s like an IPA masquerading as a red ale.
Blacks of Kinsale Black IPA
It can be disconcerting to raise a glass of what looks like stout to your nose and get a blast of piney hops and orange citrus. The hoppy bitterness is counterbalanced by the flavour of dark roasted malts with a hint of coffee. Think of it as a hoppy porter.
Did you know there are over 80 different styles of beer? Don’t be afraid to experiment – there’s a whole world of flavour out there. Here’s a taste of what you can expect from some of the most popular summertime styles.
Lager Lagers should be bready and biscuity, not bland. Good lagers have a sparkling gold colour and a dry, crisp, refreshing flavour. The quintessential summer beer.
IPA India pale ale developed during
the days of the British Empire in the 1700s, when beer had to be brewed with extra hops and at a high alcohol level to survive the six-month ocean voyage to India. These days, IPAs let brewers play with a palette of hops and it’s one of the most popular craft beer styles.
Franciscan Well Friar Weisse Wheat Beer
This has all the hallmarks of a classic wheat beer: a sweet, yeasty, ripe pear aroma and a flavour that’s chock full of bananas and toffee, with a lemony spritz to keep it from being too cloying and barely any bitterness.
Sierra Nevada Torpedo Extra IPA
Another dry-hopped beer, the initial citrus aroma leads to a little bit of celery with a zesty flavour of lemon peel and tangerines and a nicely balanced bitterness. Just keep an eye on the ABV – at 7.2%, it could sneak up on you! One for the hop lovers.
An unusually exotic, dry-hopped lager, with mango and passion fruit aromas that lead on to a tropical fruit flavour with a touch of brown sugar too. It’s lager, but not as you know it.
Pale ale This is a broad style,
ranging from India pale ale to American, British or Belgian pale ales. Look for a golden colour with citrus and floral notes and a hop bitterness that can be anything from moderate to high while remaining refreshingly drinkable.
Red ale This traditional Irish style
ranges in colour from amber to a striking ruby red. The hallmark aromas and flavours are of toasty, caramel malt balanced with a little hop bitterness to counteract the sweetness.
Wheat beer As the name suggests, these pale beers are brewed with a lot of wheat and a special yeast that gives them their signature banana, clove and even bubblegum flavours. Drink properly chilled on a hot summer’s day for best effect.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 21
18-21 Uncorked Summerr_Beer_KJ_v5.indd 21
Treat Yourself Author, food consultant and contributor to such august publications as Food & Wine Magazine, Licensing World and Bon AppĂŠtit, renowned wine writer Marilyn Bright extols the virtues of a really good wine treat and suggests some indulgent food matches too. 22 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
22-25 Uncorked Summer_Luxury Wines_KJ_v15.indd 22
Château Latour, Pauillac, Médoc, Bordeaux.
ignificant moments are made all the more enjoyable with a few indulgent treats that ensure the boat is well and truly pushed out. When it comes to special occasion food and drink, it’s quality that counts and we’ve all learned lately that austerity isn’t what it’s cracked up to be. A satisfying top-of-the-range tipple, whether shared with just one other or a roomful of favourite people, sets the stage for happy occasions. Best bottles can reach the pinnacle of perfection with good food matches, which can range from a few salted almonds to a master chef star main course. Happily, there’s no right or wrong these days when it comes to food matching. Sommeliers no longer throw themselves on their knives if you fancy a glass of red with your seafood. The convention only arose because some red wines taste metallic with fishy flavours. You might favour a powerhouse Australian Shiraz with your rare beef or an elegant French Burgundy. Or ten-year-old port with ginger biscuits and Gorgonzola one day and chocolate pudding the next. A little bit of what you fancy … after all, it’s a treat.
Louis Latour Chablis Premier Cru 2013 l3% €33.99
Fresh Irish oysters and a glass of Louis Latour Chablis Premier Cru is an indulgent treat.
selected stores only
Chablis and seafood go together like Fred and Ginger, and this smooth premier cru from one of the region’s oldest wine houses pairs flintiness with honeyed overtones that open out in the poured glass. A perfect partner for a few oysters, a seafood platter or buttery sole meunière, served just cool rather than icy cold.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 23
22-25 Uncorked Summer_Luxury Wines_KJ_v15.indd 23
e p e r fe c t p a r t n e r fo r
ld b e a sp eci al pic nic
e p ie
a nd t he N ug a n Al
Lou is L
at o u
is t h
in er t
Louis Latour Gevrey Chambertin 2011 13.5% €47.99
selected stores only
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2014
A famous Edwardian bon viveur once said, “I don’t remember the place and I forget the name of the woman, but the wine was Chambertain.” Made in a centuries-old tradition, this Burgundy continues to charm with characteristic berry fruits on the nose and flavours of cherry and strawberry, while avoiding the heaviness of some Pinot Noir styles. A perfect partner for summery chicken tarragon and a real treat to enjoy with a post-theatre croque monsieur of toasted sourdough bread layered with baked ham and melting cheese.
selected stores only
Zesty and more-ish defines this New Zealand white with tangy grapefruit and gooseberry flavours. Hailed as the wine that made Sauvignon Blanc universally chic and conferred status on the once-scorned screwcap, this stylish New World award-winner is crafted to be drunk when young and fresh, combining crisp, aromatic fruit with enough bite to make brilliant matches with rich fish dishes or apéritif bites like anchovy-laced cheese straws and olives.
u r ag
t he B a
nfi Bru n ello d
You might expect a wine made from raisins to end up as a dessert wine, but the Nugan Estate has used grapes dried on racks to intensify and concentrate dark berry flavours and smooth tannins to an elegant mid-dry finish. Handcrafted and matured in oak for 12 months, this unique limited release wine is one to try with some rare beef or cold game pie for a special picnic.
Full-bodied and muscular describe this Super Tuscan produced in the hilltop zone of Montalcini exclusively using the Brunello grape, which must be known elsewhere as Sangiovese. Big spicy and figgy flavours give this long-lived wine the weight and character to complement roasts and chargrills, and is heaven-sent for a proper slow-cooked Italian ragu enriched with chicken livers and served over fresh pasta.
selected stores only
selected stores only
of marinated oli
a fi r e o Montalcini 2009
a Tr y
éritif n ap
Nugan Alfredo Dried Grape Shiraz 2012
u d y B ay S a u v i g n o n B l a
i n h e a ve
24 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
22-25 Uncorked Summer_Luxury Wines_KJ_v15.indd 24
b e s t p âté o r m e l t
f t he
C h a m p a gn e gr a p e h
k p ic
r e ta
t is t
k e d w i t h h e r b s.
h e tra ditio nal dish se
Tr y t
Château Musar 2004
Champagne Charles Mignon Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Gru
selected stores only
Nugan Estate Matriarch Shiraz 2006
Amazingly produced in the Bekaa Valley in the midst of conflict, this skilfully crafted wine will please lovers of the classic Rhone Valley style. Years can vary according to conditions and availability, but the Hochar family fashion their wine for long life, only releasing it after five years. This 2004 Musar is drinking at its peak now, with smoky, spicy fruits balanced by tannins that smooth and open in the poured glass. Pair this with your best pâté or a melting shoulder of lamb slow-cooked with herbs and garlic.
selected stores only
Made in a myriad of styles, Shiraz is Australia’s leading red wine. This handcrafted example from the distinguished McLaren Vale district is matured in new oak for an impressive 24 months, with only the best barrels selected for the final blend. Dark cherry, plum and peppery tones blend with smooth, almost chocolaty tannins to make a full-bodied wine perfect for the big flavours of game and smoky barbecued meats. For maximum pleasure, sip this wine slowly with just a few good friends, some toasted almonds and perhaps a platter of the best charcuterie. e i s a m a g i c m atc h s e e fo r l ch t he n ta
Taylor’s 10-Year-Old Tawny Port
selected stores only
Any time, anywhere is the official drinking advice for the sparkling wine that turns any occasion into a celebration. A fine mousse of foamy bubbles and a mingled scent of green apples and pale flowers announce this top-of-therange champagne as it is poured. Cellared for three years, flavours of sun-baked fruit are balanced with a crisp lemon edge to give an elegant finish that’s perfect as an apéritif or throughout a special meal. At vendage time in Champagne they serve this with a fine tart of ripe grapes steeped in Cognac on an almond base.
selected stores only
Port has cast off its fusty men’sclub-and-cigars image and is returning to dinner party tables as guests linger over enticing arrays of Irish farmhouse cheeses and delicious gossip. Taylor’s tawny port is aged in seasoned oak to produce mouth-filling dried fruit flavours with warm, nutty tones and a long finish that complements mellow cheese and talk. Modern trendies are also pairing tawny port with desserts, especially dark chocolate or the Michelin-smart finish of Crozier Blue cheese drizzled with truffled honey.
err l y, p
r t is a classi c
um a nd p
e p p e r y to n e s o f th e
Nu g an
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 25
22-25 Uncorked Summer_Luxury Wines_KJ_v15.indd 25
LINDEMAN’S wines contain the spirit and passion of its founder, Dr. Henry J. Lindeman, whose philosophy was to craft wines for everyday enjoyment. The LINDEMAN’S Bin Range is internationally recognised as one of the best value-for-money wines ranges available throughout the world. Check out the new Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc which is now available in store, this reliable Sauvignon Blanc delivers a brilliant balance of refreshing fruit ﬂavours and aromas.
Enjoy ALCOHOL Sensibly. Visit TWE Lindemans Sainsburys Mag Ad 200x287_02.indd 1 Untitled-3 1
Subject to availability – in selected stores
10/04/2015 15:09 10:57 01/05/2015
PAN-FRIED PLAICE WITH POTATO BLINIS
Kevin O’Callaghan’s avour e s and wine a es or easy su er entertaining.
SERVES 4 4 SuperValu fresh plaice fillets 100g SuperValu Baby Salad Leaves, to serve SuperValu lemon or lime wedges FOR THE BLINIS 100g mashed potatoes 2 SuperValu eggs 3 tablespoons SuperValu Plain Flour 2 level tablespoons SuperValu Crème Fraîche SuperValu Salt and Pepper 2 to 3 tablespoons SuperValu Olive Oil
1 2 3
Place the mashed potatoes in a bowl. Add one whole egg, one egg yolk (reserve the white), flour, crème fraîche and some salt and pepper. Combine with a whisk. In a second clean, dry bowl, whisk the egg white until stiff, then gently fold it into the mashed potatoes. Heat the oil in a non-stick sauté pan over a medium heat. Drop a few tablespoons of the blini mixture into the pan, spaced 1 or 2cm apart, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until set. Flip them over and cook on the other side for 2 to 3 minutes more, until both sides are lightly browned. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil. Repeat until all the blini mixture has been used up. Depending on size, you should make 12 blinis (three per person). In the same pan and still on a medium heat, pan-fry the plaice for 2 minutes on each side, until cooked through. Cut each fillet into three portions. Top the blinis with the plaice and a few salad leaves. Serve immediately with lemon or lime wedges to squeeze over the salad leaves.
THE MAGIC OF
Wine & FISH
OC NATURA PINOT SYRAH ROSÉ €12.99 I challenge you with a dry rosé giving a touch of texture with summer fruits. SuperValu’s Oc Natura Pinot Syrah Rosé is ideal with pan-fried flavours and potato blinis.
u er r n s a nee or s ple flavours an res as n w nes, so we ve p e our avour e sea oo s es an a e e w so e s ar s u e w nes SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 27
027 Uncorked_Summer_Fish_KJ_V11.indd 27
SuperValu Salmon with Asparagus, Lemon and Dill
DOMAINE CRISTIA GRENACHE BLANC €14.99 The asparagus dominates this salmon dish, so a cool bottle of Domaine Cristia Grenache Blanc will make an ideal match.
SALMON AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE SOUP SERVES 4 30g SuperValu Butter Prepared by our Fishmonger SuperValu Salmon with Fresh Asparagus, Lemon and Dill €7
1 SuperValu onion, sliced 2 SuperValu garlic cloves, crushed 4 SuperValu Rooster potatoes, peeled and diced 300g SuperValu fresh salmon fillets, skinned and diced 400ml vegetable stock 100ml white wine
Prepared by our Fishmonger SuperValu Hake Wrapped in Serrano Ham with Lemon, Pepper and Garlic €6
SuperValu Hake Wrapped in Serrano Ham with Lemon, Pepper and Garlic
LONE KAURI MARLBOROUGH RESERVE RIESLING €14.99 Look for a Riesling, which is great with ham and fish, the Lone Kauri Marlborough Reserve Riesling is a sublime match.
3 tablespoons SuperValu Crème Fraîche 1 tablespoon chopped SuperValu fresh dill 1 SuperValu lime, zest and juice SuperValu Salt and Pepper
Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 2 minutes, until the onion is just starting to soften. Add the potatoes and salmon. Pour in the vegetable stock and white wine and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, until the potatoes have softened. Blitz the soup until smooth with a hand-held blender. Stir in the crème fraîche and dill and season with the lime juice and some salt and pepper. Just before serving, stir in the lime zest.
28 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
027 Uncorked_Summer_Fish_KJ_V11.indd 28
ABELLIO ALBARIÑO €13.99 The creamy salmon and crème fraîche soup is fresh-tasting with a pronounced flavour, so look for our Abellio Albariño, a wonderful match. €13.99
SUMMER SPECIALS LOOK FOR OUR PROMOTIONS THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER. TASTE THEM NOW SO YOU CAN STOCK UP WHEN THEY’RE ON OFFER!
TOP TIP DON’T FORGET TO LOG ON TO WWW.SUPERVALU.IE FOR LOTS MORE FISH RECIPES. SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 29
027 Uncorked_Summer_Fish_KJ_V11.indd 29
Prepared by our Fishmonger SuperValu Seafood Kebabs with Chunks of Salmon and White Fish Kebabs Delicately Spiced with Sweet Curry Marinade €6
SuperValu Salmon and White Fish Kebabs
TOP TIP LOOK FOR OUR PREPARED BY OUR FISHMONGER RANGE IN-STORE.
LORGERIL LES TERRASSES VIOGNIER €13.99 These big-flavoured fish kebabs are easier to match than you’d think. It’s the curry you need to match, so go for something fragrant and crisp, like Lorgeril Les Terrasses Viognier.
TOP TIP DON’T FORGET! THERE’S A WEEKLY OFFER AT THE SUPERVALU FISH COUNTER IN-STORE EVERY FRIDAY.
SuperValu Prawn and Vegetable Skewers
VINA DE ALBALI RUEDA VERDEJO €13.49 The sweet, smoky flavours of these prawn skewers mean you need to look for a Spanish Verdejo with a touch of weight and tropical fruit. Our Viña de Albali Rueda Verdejo would be ideal.
Prepared by our Fishmonger SuperValu Prawn Skewers Made with Tiger Prawns & Sweet Veg in an AmericanStyle Sweet, Smoky Mustard Rub €5
30 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
027 Uncorked_Summer_Fish_KJ_V11.indd 30
risorgimento Tomás Clancy is the wine correspondent for the Sunday Business Post, co-host of the weekly Intermezzo show on RTÉ Lyric FM and wine columnist on Newstalk’s Seán Moncrieff Show. So he’s the ideal person to tell the story of an Italian family business, Mondo del Vino, that is working to bring Italy’s vast regional wine diversity to our shelves.
Harvest time Emilia-Romagna.
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 31
031 Uncorked_Summer 2015 Italian Wine_KJ_v15.indd 31
Wine isn’t milk. You cannot experiment with it every day; you only get one chance in a vintage.
t first glance it can be hard to pinpoint exactly why Italian wine is such a fragmented and tricky business, but anyone involved in the GAA will understand immediately. Italy, while being nation proud, is also entirely county obsessed. Every neighbouring wine region isn’t just a sporting competitor across the county line. For hundreds of years, it was very often a military and economic enemy too. For example, Tuscany, home of Chianti, was part of France for much of the nineteenth century and before that was a principality of Austria. Piedmont, home of Barolo, was part of the kingdom of Savoy and later France, while Sicily, home of the great Nero d’Avola, was Spanish for five centuries, until Napoleon arrived and it became Bourbon, a French royal possession. The same story crops up time and time again across Italy. We only started to get a real sense of Italian wine rather than Chianti, Amarone or Barolo after the country’s unification in 1871.
The great wine estates and great wine names in Italy tend to be locally based, no matter how large they become. There’s no real tradition of helping or talking up other wine regions, as there is in Spain or France. But one family company set out to change all that in 1992 when they began the slow process of trying to unite wineries and wine producers from every major wine region across Italy. You might not have heard of that company yet, but you may well have drunk their wines. ‘We want to share the
real expertise and passion of each region, the diversity and inquisitiveness, the experiment and enthusiasm of each and every winery, with the world’s wine consumers. That passion, that genius, is part of the story of wine in every part of Italy and we want to get this across to people today,’ says Marco Martini, commercial director of MGM Mondo del Vino. Marco Martini is the second generation of his family to help run the MGM Mondo del Vino Group. His father, Alfeo Martini,
32 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
031 Uncorked_Summer 2015 Italian Wine_KJ_v15.indd 32
Italy, while being nation proud, is also entirely county obsessed.
BACK TO THE ROOTS
Poderi dal Nespoli, Fico Grande, Sangiovese di Romagna DOC 2014 €11.99
Barone Montalto Vineyard, Sicily
along with Roger Gabb and Christoph Mack, founded the group with a desire to put regional barriers behind them and embrace the brilliance of Italian wine from every region with as much passion as they had for their own region. They also had a clear mission: to bring consumers the lost wines of Italy that they were not able to find easily at affordable prices. While the wealthy star wineries in each region might be able to find a place on the shelves at a high price, the vast majority of Italy’s wine regions were made up of tiny wineries without the money or the contacts to break out of local sales. In a wine version of The Magnificent Seven, MGM moved out of its base near Bologna to join forces with wineries not in their native Emilia-Romagna, which is what large firms had previously tended to do, but rather across county lines. They formed partnerships here and bought wineries there. The group now contains over two dozen separately run, centrally administered, centrally
supported and marketed wineries. Marco Martini, a trained oenologist, or winemaker, is also a passionate entrepreneur. He balances wide-eyed enthusiasm for cutting-edge wines, new techniques and groundbreaking innovations with a deep-rooted desire for authenticity and history. Martini has taken on the role of general manager in several of the wineries, such as Poderi dal Nespoli, the makers of Fico Grande. ‘We want Italian wine to think and act globally,’ says Martini of his and MGM Mondo del Vino’s plans to offer one underlying brand name that wine lovers can trust as their route to the heart of Italy’s vast regional and stylistic diversity in Barone Montalto Vineyard, Sicily
wine. ‘I think the Wine Intelligence technical group we have established is one of the keys ways to understand what we want to offer wine consumers,’ says Marco Martini. ‘This group is made up of winemakers from across our group throughout Italy. Wine isn’t milk. You cannot experiment with it every day; you only get one chance in a vintage. But in our technical group we can share resources so that we can run experiments with low alcohol, with SO2-free wines and with sustainable practices such as water recovery. We can elaborate vegan wines, green wines and organics as well
This ground-breaking and award-winning Sangiovese isn’t from Chianti, but rather from the Romagna DOC on Italy’s Adriatic eastern side. This wine isn’t a break with tradition; it’s a revival. It comes with the huge technical expertise of a wine even older than Chianti, Sangiovese di Romagna, but now with a dab of Merlot. When Tuscany and Romagna were rivals, this Sangiovese was misunderstood as Chianti. But now we can see it for the fig and cherry delight it is, bursting with violets and a savoury, lightly tannic finish. A typical and delicious lighter-bodied wine begging for grilled chicken and strong cheese.
as investigate bringing techniques from one region to another if they make sense and work.’ This kind of R&D isn’t possible for a small winery, nor is it particularly useful within just one region. But the technical group can experiment with using appassimento, the technique for making Amarone, in many different regions, and if it’s a success it can be developed into an innovative commercial wine.
MONDO DEL VINO WINES NOW FORM PART OF OUR SPECIALLY SOURCED RANGE, SO YOU’LL ONLY FIND THEM IN SUPERVALU. SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 33
031 Uncorked_Summer 2015 Italian Wine_KJ_v15.indd 33
NEW Barone Montalto Vineyard, Sicily
Ricossa Antica Casa, Barbera d’Asti DOCG 2013 €11.99 Many writers like to describe Barbera d’Asti as a younger sibling to its meatier fellow Piedmont red wines, but this isn’t a useful comparison these days. Contemporary Barbera has worked to establish its own taste profile, with a much shorter barrel ageing and of course because it’s made from Barbera rather than Nebbiolo. It’s a more forward wine, fruitier and fresher with fine acidity and a more luscious finish.
Villa Pani, Toscana Rosso, Toscana IGT 2013 €11.99 Meanwhile, just over the border from EmiliaRomagna, the home of MGM Mondo del Vino, is Tuscany, the other great powerhouse of Sangiovese. Here we have a light, cool, mediumbodied take with cherry tones and the kind of cut that demands pairing with a light summer salad.
Barone Montalto, Nero d’Avola, Collezione di Famiglia Appassimento 2013 €13.99
Barone Montalto, Ammasso, Rosso Terre Siciliane IGT 2013 €18.99
Innovation and tradition go hand in hand, so here a straight Nero d’Avola is allowed to wither on the vine in the traditional manner, giving a similar effect to Amarone’s techniques. This creates a more rustic, beefy wine at around 15% alcohol that benefits from decanting. It can be served a little chilled too. This is the kind of wine that might previously have been available just to locals, as the ordinary Nero d’Avola wasn’t believed to be what other wine lovers might want. But Martini and MGM Mondo del Vino are anxious to offer all aspects of each region. Of course, while exploration and novelty are fascinating and exciting, we all want access to the classics, but ideally without paying the classically high price that comes with scarcity and luxury marketing. Here again, Martini and MGM Mondo del Vino offer a route to some very fine wines by joining forces with smaller wineries, which now enjoy the scale to reach Irish shelves thanks to their inclusion in this all-Italian enterprise.
Ammasso is a refinement of a local technique that echoes the structures of appassimento. The technique, which uses partially dried grapes, just like in the making of Amarone, is used in the island of Sicily, using local grapes and the best parcels in the estate. The result is a sort of southern Italian Amarone, a plush, opulent wine with a huge, dense fruit profile of dark crushed berries and touches of sweet caramel and molasses. The luscious and complex blend of Sicily’s Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon produces a 14.5% blockbuster. It can benefit from being decanted for a couple of hours and is made for a special occasion. Chargrilled or roasted beef with the richest of sauces will be a happy match here.
Ricossa Antica Casa, Barolo DOCG 2011 €22.99
This is a rather profound and gorgeous wine that shows the other side of MGM Mondo del Vino. Founded by Lorenzo Ricossa at the end of the nineteenth century primarily as a distillery, the family business soon evolved into a Barolo wine hub. Every drop of the Barolo DOCG sells for premium prices, and now that the vineyards of Barolo have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, prices are set to rocket and availability plummet. Happily, working with meticulously sourced fruit from all the main vineyard sites, this mature Nebbiolo, aged for three years in barrels, is a garnet-coloured, super-smooth, robust delight at a privileged price.
34 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
031 Uncorked_Summer 2015 Italian Wine_KJ_v15.indd 34
Exclusively Sourced by our SuperValu Wine Experts We have travelled the world tasting wines, selected the best from the best winemakers, these are easily identified with a Specially Sourced label so you can enjoy them too, exclusively at SuperValu.
Building on our principles of delivering the highest quality wines we have developed a Signature Range which represents the finest wines within our Specially Sourced range.
SV Wines Specially Sourced_Jane_V5.indd 1 Untitled-4 1
07/11/2014 04/05/2015 16:12 19:25
WHAT DO I WIN?
trip TO AN Italian VINEYARD
A weekend for two as guests of Mondo del Vino in Verona, which will include a tour of the renowned Poderi dal Nespoli vineyard. For almost a century wine-making has set the rhythm of their lives, so their chief winemaker has some expert stories and expert wines to share with the lucky winner. You’ll also be treated to a traditional lunch at the vineyard. You’ll spend a night in fair Verona exploring its culinary delights too. There will be a tour of the magnificent Emilia-Romagna region as well as a visit to the Verona Arena, a Roman amphitheatre, and not forgetting a visit to the famous Romeo and Juliet balcony. Flights included, natch.
Our friends at Mondo del Vino will host you on a weekend trip to fair Verona for an exclusive tour of one of their most celebrated vineyards and their beautiful city.
HOW CAN I WIN?
Simply complete this phrase in 20 words or less:
“ I like to buy SuperValu Specially Sourced wines because...”
HOW DO I ENTER?
Log on to SuperValu.ie/real-people/competitions The winning entry will be chosen by a panel made up of SuperValu wine buyer Kevin O’Callaghan and editor of UNCORKED, Ross Golden-Bannon. Judges’ decision is final. Deadline for entries is midnight on 31 August 2015.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The famed Romeo and Juliet balcony; harvest time in Veneto; the old city of Verona.
Terms and conditions apply You must be over 18 years of age to avail of this prize and in possession of a valid passport entitling you to travel to Italy. The prize is non-transferable. Travel times may be restricted. Competition closes at midnight on 31 August 2015. By entering this competition you may be contacted by SuperValu.
037 Uncorked_Summer_Competition_KJ_v9.indd 37
SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 37
f you were to suggest three different wines to cover a wide range of occasions and different people’s tastes that you could have in the house in case friends or family called over or you had forgotten to buy wine (highly unlikely!), what would they be and why?”
“Brilliant question, Sarah. Where do I start? The party lubricant, a crowd pleaser, would be Finca Labarca Rioja Crianza. Its black fruits and soft texture match well with most meals. For a weekend favourite in a white, look for Villa Maria when it’s on offer. It’s a brilliant white with a great concentration of fruit flavours. The touch of class would be Aresti Trisquel Syrah, which is a wine big on flavours but with a velvety smooth texture and brilliant elegance.”
PHILIP ASKS “How many calories are in a bottle of wine and is it different for red and white?”
Any questions? Loads of answers!
KEVIN SAYS “Wines can vary, but typically a bottle of wine at 13% ABV would be about 600 calories.”
ANN ASKS “How long can you keep wine once it has been opened?” KEVIN SAYS “White in the fridge lasts longer than red wine in general. For me, 48 hours is the max life of a wine once opened, in general terms.”
Resident SuperValu wine expert Kevin O’Callaghan gives us a round-up of the most popular questions he gets on the SuperValu Facebook page and social media.
Kevin O'Callaghan, the SuperValu Wine Buyer.
38 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
038 Uncorked_Summer 2015 Kevin_New_KJ_v12.indd 38
SUE ASKS “I have to say I do enjoy the ritual of peeling back the foil, uncorking the bottle and hearing the pop before pouring the wine. With the screwcap it just isn’t the same. Does the way the wine is sealed affect the flavour and body of the wine? And is the screwcap the way of the future in the wine industry or will the cork survive too?”
KEVIN SAYS “To give one answer, screwcap is better. I agree that the whole passion and romance of opening a wine is lost somewhat, but at least you have more guaranteed quality, so it keeps the wine in the condition that the wine maker expected you to enjoy.”
JOSEPHINE ASKS “I always enjoy a bottle of red Faustino or Campo Viejo wine with my meal. A Rioja is always the first thing I ask for. Can you advise me on what wines I should be having with different dishes?”
KEVIN SAYS “Rioja is a great ‘go to’ wine for food, as it tends to have a more velvety texture. This comes from using American oak barrels, which give more vanilla flavours to the wine. It’s great with all grilled meats, lamb, duck and tapas. For something new, try Ribera del Duero, also from Spain, or Condado de Oriza, which is in a similar style. Or try bigger Australian Merlots, like Nugan Gold Label Merlot, which will be a bit different but great with rich foods. You can also look for different levels of Rioja, like Reserva and Gran Reserva, which have even more matured flavours.”
DEBORAH ASKS “What Cabernet Sauvignon would you recommend? I seem to be going off Merlot. Why is this?”
KEVIN SAYS “I’m guessing Merlot is, or was, your favourite grape and maybe you stuck to the same couple of wines of that variety. If so, what’s probably happening is that your palate is starting to mature and is craving new flavours. It happens with foods too, like cheese. People get more adventurous and search out new sensations and tastes, not always consciously, so lucky you, I say! Try a bottle of Aresti Estate Cabernet, which is nice and soft, or a blended Merlot Cabernet like Michel Lynch Barrel Select. But if you’re craving something new, try Pablo Old Vine Garnacha. Trust me!”
s it necessary to swirl wine in the glass before you taste it? And why?”
It’s not necessary but it’s good practice, as this lifts the aromas in the glass, allowing you to fully engage all your senses when tasting the wine. Plus it looks good!
“Is it true that no matter what the price is for a bottle of wine, if there is a hollow on the bottom of the bottle it’s a nicer wine than if there is no hollow on the bottom?”
KEVIN SAYS “It might surprise you to know that this is one of the more frequently asked questions I get. There are many reasons for the hollow. In the early days of glass blowing, it was used to strengthen the bottle, as thicker glass bottles were needed to give more stability as well as adding weight to the base of taller wine bottles to ground them more. But the same wine can also be put into environmentally friendly bottles that are lighter and have little or no punt (or hollow), a direction the wine world is increasingly moving in. So the answer is no, not always, but there are exceptions to everything.” SUMMER 2015 UNCORKED | 39
038 Uncorked_Summer 2015 Kevin_New_KJ_v12.indd 39
W Kevin says
hat is the best wine to drink with chocolate?”
“Ann, you’re a woman after my own heart. There’s no better combo. I was at a tasting where we had chilli-flavoured chocolate with a Shiraz, which was really amazing. Shiraz has a little spice and even a bit of pepper, which worked well. It depends on the chocolate too. I like Italian wine, especially Ripasso or Amarone, as there is a certain sweet combo there and they are deeply flavoured wines that cleanse the chocolate from your palate to give the next bit an all-new feel. Thanks, Ann – you’ve convinced me to pick one up on the way home!”
SIOBHAN ASKS “Why is there no expiry date on wine and which keeps longer: red, white or rosé?”
KEVIN SAYS “Wine ages, which improves some but not others. Wine doesn’t actually expire but it can lose all flavour and become flat, with nothing left but alcohol. In the main, reds last longer than whites. Most whites need to be drunk in their youth, within two to three years, but there are exceptions. Reds last longer as they have extra long-life components like tannin.”
SHARON ASKS “Does the type of glass you drink wine from affect the taste?”
MARIE ASKS “I just discovered the Malbec grape and I love it! Could you name a few good affordable ones?”
KEVIN SAYS “Look for the Rare Vineyards Malbec when it’s on offer, it’s brilliant value for money. For a treat, look for the Doña Paula Los Cardos Malbec, which has deeper favours.”
TONY ASKS “How do you make rosé?”
KEVIN SAYS “The contact with the red grape skins is cut short versus that of full red wines, which means less colour is imparted. All grape juice is clear – it’s the level of contact with the skins that gives wine its colour.”
KEVIN SAYS “For me, yes. It’s a very debatable topic, but I love red wine from bigger glasses, and the thinner the glass, the better on the lips. Drink white wine from smaller glasses – I hate it when people pour me large white wines. For me, white should be little and often so you have it chilled all the time.”
40 | UNCORKED SUMMER 2015
038 Uncorked_Summer 2015 Kevin_New_KJ_v12.indd 40
Showstopping Special Occasion
Imagine a tiered tower of Artisan cheeses, selected to create a perfectly balanced cheeseboard creating a fabulous centrepiece with a difference for your next celebration.
Whether it’s a wedding, birthday, christening, communion or confirmation we’ve got a fantastic range of Irish and European cheeses to suit every taste and budget.
TO ORDER OR FIND OUT MORE JUST POP INTO YOUR LOCAL SUPERVALU STORE
Enjoy TIO PEPE Sensibly Visit Enjoy TIO PEPE Sensibly Visit Enjoy TIO PEPE Sensibly Visit
Enjoy TIO PEPE Sensibly Visit Tio Pepe FP Untitled-4 1 Uncorked Mag May 2015.indd 1
01/05/2015 19:25 14:17 04/05/2015