CHEESE & DAIRY
Next-gen inspiration Having worked in some of Italy’s most respected kitchens, chef Andrea Ruszel’s star is on the rise in the UK. Here’s his take on the importance of ingredient tradition and regional variety.
Cheese is obviously the heartbeat of pizza. How do you approach its use? It’s not just an ingredient – it’s a storyteller. Growing up in Sicily, I learned that cheese gives a dish depth, balance and identity. In pizza especially, it plays a crucial role, bringing saltiness, richness and that essential umami element. I pick cheeses that speak the language of authentic Italian tradition. From the creaminess of burrata to the delicate sweetness of a high-quality Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, the structure and complexity of Parmigiano Reggiano and aged pecorino, right through to the bold, rich character of gorgonzola. With pasta and pizza, cheese must be selected and paired according to other elements on the plate. Sometimes it’s interesting to explore fondue-style preparations, creams or sauces, bringing innovation and modernity to a traditional dish, while still respecting its roots.
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Authenticity is everything in Italian cooking. How do you deliver on this? It starts with knowledge and respect for tradition – understanding how cheeses have historically been produced across the regions and using them in harmony with seasonal, quality ingredients. Guaranteeing authenticity is not always easy. Demand is high and the market is full of imitations. However, there are clear indicators to help identify the real thing. Italy’s most important cheeses are protected by official quality marks, often stamped directly onto the rind or clearly displayed on packaging. For example, Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP is protected by a specific consortium. It is one of the most
“GUARANTEEING AUTHENTICITY IS NOT ALWAYS EASY. DEMAND IS HIGH AND THE MARKET IS FULL OF IMMITATIONS.”
counterfeited cheeses in the world, so look for an official logo – a sun-inspired symbol in the colours of the Italian flag, with a buffalo head at its centre. From a consumer perspective, are expectations around cheese changing? Absolutely. People are more informed and demanding than ever. They want
authenticity but are open to innovation – cheeses with a clear provenance and story, alongside new textures, pairings and modern interpretations. There is a growing appreciation for artisanal Italian cheese and how it can fit into modern lifestyles and global flavour influences. My approach is always to honour tradition, while staying open to the natural evolution of contemporary taste. In your experience, which are the finest Italian cheeses? They are as diverse as the regions they come from. In Sicily, you find intense, sun-driven flavours that pair beautifully with citrus and aromatic herbs. One of the island’s most iconic protected cheeses is Piacentino Ennese DOP – a unique sheep’s milk cheese made with saffron pistils and black peppercorns. It has a deep golden colour and saffron aroma. In northern Italy, you discover aged cow’s milk cheeses and mountain varieties with complex notes. In Emilia-Romagna, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP needs little introduction – one of the most imitated cheeses in the world, with over a thousand years of history, yet only one true original. In Sardinia, Pecorino Romano is produced – a fundamental ingredient in Italian cuisine, essential for iconic dishes such as carbonara, pesto and many others. I truly believe that every Italian region has a signature cheese that reflects www.pizzapastamagazine.co.uk 13/02/2026 11:17