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Dec 08/ Jan 09
60 hassle-free meals to get you through the winter
Tried & tested
48 hours in stockholm
what’s new in Jamie’s World Party feasts, curry nights, stir-fries, roast veg & Ministry of Food staples
chance to buy Jamie’s Christmas ham on page 11
Exclusive Brad Pitt on steak,
Angelina’s cereal obsession and New Orleans restaurants
Dec 08/ Jan 09
“I’ve had enough of the same-old same-old – it doesn’t get anyone anywhere”
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Jamie making this delicious jerk
Jamie’s jerk Ham
You can have this ham hot or cold. We love it cold with fried eggs, in sandwiches and in salads. 3kg leg of ham 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns 1 onion, peeled and cut into wedges 1 bouquet garni (leek, celery, bay leaves, thyme) Jerk seasoning 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped 5 scotch bonnet peppers, deseeded, then chopped 4 red shallots, peeled and diced 1 bunch chives, chopped 1 tbsp caster sugar 12 sprigs fresh thyme 3 fresh bay leaves 2 tbsp each ground allspice, ground nutmeg, ground cloves, sea salt 125ml golden rum 125ml malt vinegar Glaze 3 tbsp marmalade 250ml orange juice 125ml golden rum
1 Preheat the oven to 160˚C/gas 3. Place the ham in a roasting pan and add the peppercorns, onion and bouquet garni. Add water until it comes halfway up the side of the pan. Cover the ham with foil (making a tent to allow steam to circulate). Bake for 1½ hours or until pink and cooked through, then remove from the oven and cool for 30 minutes, remaining covered. While it’s still warm, you will need to carefully remove the skin, keeping the fat attached to the ham. With a sharp knife, score the ham by making diagonal cuts across the leg. 2 To make jerk seasoning, blend all the ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Rub the jerk seasoning all over the ham and scored fat. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or for 24 hours. 3 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/gas 4. Combine glaze ingredients in a bowl. Remove ham from the fridge, scrape off excess seasoning and bake for an hour. Remove from oven, brush with glaze, then continue cooking the ham for another 30–40 minutes, basting with glaze every 10 minutes until crisp, golden and sticky.
Potato & Green Bean Salad
Serves 8 1kg baby red potatoes 1kg chat potatoes 500g haricot beans 1 small handful of basil, mint and parsley, roughly chopped 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 Cook the potatoes in a large pot of boiling salted water for 30 minutes or until tender and cooked through. Drain and cover to keep warm. Cook beans in a large pot of boiling salted water for 3–5 minutes, drain and cover to keep warm. 2 Place olive oil in a bowl with vinegar and herbs, season with salt and pepper and whisk with a fork to combine. Toss the potatoes and green beans with herb dressing and place in a large bowl to serve.
“This year-round dish needs to come with a warning – it may make you very sexy!” says Jamie Mango Jam
You can use papayas if you prefer. 3 ripe mangoes, seed removed, flesh cut into 2cm cubes 225g brown sugar 1 cinnamon stick 1 Place all ingredients in a saucepan with 250ml of water and cook over a medium heat for 25–30 minutes until the sugar has dissolved and the sauce begins to thicken. Allow to cool. Place in a jar and store in the refrigerator for up to a week.
jerk ham, potato & green bean salad, and mango jam Jerk seasoning will keep for a week in the fridge. Use leftover seasoning to spice up roast veg, rice dishes and grilled pork or lamb chops. Itâ€™s best of all rubbed over a chicken before roasting.
spirited resistance Alex Nicol is a distiller who has taken on the corporations to rescue two much-loved whiskies from the brink of extinction Words Paul Dring Photography Simon Wheeler
had just turned 50,” says Alex Nicol. “I’d worked in whisky for years but had always wanted to make it myself because I knew I could do a good job. I thought, if I leave it any longer I’ll be too old, I won’t have the will. So I said, ‘Sod it. I’ll do it now!’” That was three years ago. Since then, the blended malts Alex produces, both much-loved brands that he rescued from the verge of extinction, are finding new friends. His flagship brand, Sheep Dip, was developed in 1974 by Gloucestershire publican MJ Dowdeswell, who originally served it at his pub in the village of Oldbury-on-Severn. Pig’s Nose was launched three years later, as a stablemate for Sheep Dip. From their high points in the 1970s – at one stage, Sheep Dip was the bestselling brand in Harrods – both fell on hard times, tossed from one firm to the next as the spirits business went takeover crazy during the 1990s. “Now, there are only four big players left,” explains Alex. “It’s like feral fish. They’ve all eaten one another.” The brands ended up at Whyte & Mackay, where Alex was a director. “They were being taken off the market, which I thought was wrong because they had a bit of heritage. People liked them.” He persuaded his colleagues to let him take them on – for a price – and so Sheep Dip and Pig’s Nose were granted a new lease of life, though for much of the first year it felt merely like a stay of execution. “It was terrifying,” recalls Alex. “I remember waking up one night
thinking, ‘I’ve got 6,000 cases of whisky I haven’t sold. Each week, I’m being sent a £3,000 bill for storage. What am I going to do?’” Sheep Dip HQ is Spencerfield House in Fife, the 16th-century, four-storey farmhouse that Alex and his wife, Jane, call home. Their office is out the back, in the converted tack room of the stables that house Alex’s two racehorses. Out front, Doug the patterdale terrier frolics in fields that fall away from the house, tumbling down to the Firth of Forth. This happy scene is watched over by the Forth Rail Bridge, a triumph of Victorian engineering and an iconic structure long before Robert Donat dangled over the side of it in Hitchcock’s 1935 film The 39 Steps. Aptly enough, whisky plays a role in the farmhouse’s long history. In 1651, after Oliver Cromwell’s troops had exacted bloody retribution on Fife’s remaining Royalists at the Battle of Inverkeithing, they were billeted at the house, where they toasted their success with a dram or two of the whisky distilled next door. Alas, the celebrations got rather out of hand and, before they knew it, the soliders had torched their gunpowder kegs, blowing off the east wing of the house. This tradition of destructive revelry is, it seems, being proudly upheld by Hannah, the Nicols’ teenage daughter, who took advantage of her parents’ absence one evening a few summers ago to invite round 300 of her closest friends, a soirée that resulted in the wholesale destruction of the greenhouse in the kitchen garden. Spencerfield was also the wellspring of the US bourbon industry. “In 1791, a man called James Anderson farmed here,” says Alex. “His crops
The iconic Forth Rail Bridge. Spring water (top right) goes into making the single-malts â€“ usually aged in first-fill American oak barrels (right) â€“ from which Sheep Dip is crafted. The original 1970s look (above).
Hix oyster & chop house Words Jamie Oliver Recipes Mark Hix Photography David Loftus
With a few friends in tow, I went to Hix Oyster & Chop House, near London’s Smithfield Market, at noon on a weekday and managed to beat the crowds – just. Mark Hix is a great British cook, and he’s riding high right now. Over the past 12 years, I’ve enjoyed his food at nearly all the restaurants he’s worked at. So for him to open his own place this year is really exciting. Mr Hix is one of the too-few British chefs who have managed to move into the big league of cooking by looking inside Britain, rather than overseas. I admire that. Most of my experience has been with the cuisines of Italy and mainland
Europe rather than that of my own country and, if I’m being honest, I feel a bit guilty about it. Mark spent his early days in the kitchen working around the likes of Anton Edelmann and Vaughan Archer at the Grosvenor House hotel, and Anton Mosimann at the Dorchester – chefs who really started to transform the reputation of food in the UK back in the 1980s. These days, he is about as executive as any executive chef can get, having worked in and been head of some of London’s most prestigious restaurants, including The Ivy and Le Caprice. His new restaurant is quite a small place, and it buzzes. There’s a great bar where you can prop yourself up and have a couple of drinks: they’ve got a wonderful selection of British ales, lagers and some particularly wonderful ciders. I felt it was my job to try lots of things, so I tasted a lot of the beers and even tried a few of the ciders. I especially loved the bar’s collection of old-style mugs. My nan and granddad used to run a pub, and they’d serve water at the tables in things like whisky water jugs and other memorabilia. I think little touches like this go a long way towards not making this feel like an off-the-peg restaurant. The menu changes daily, with stuff that’s perfectly in season – which reminded me of my time with Rose Gray and Ruthie Rogers at the River Café. They always wrote the best menus: no bullshit, just honest and simple – and every line would make me drool. Mark is one of the few male chefs that can write in this vein. What I love about his menu here is the way he goes from old-school dishes like jellied ham hock with piccalilli to something quite sexy like Stuart Tattersall (opposite) and team deliver appetisers of native oysters (top left) and crackling with parsnip crisps (centre); starters of ham hock with piccalilli (middle right); and mains such as grilled puffball with wild mushrooms (top centre) and steamed cockles with cider (bottom).
well rounded Shallow bowl in American oak; ÂŁ45
Get back to nature with this beautiful collection of stylish wooden serving bowls and chopping boards Photography David Loftus Styling Megan Morton
twin set ‘Tablet’ chopping/ serving board
5 things to do with…
in American oak; small, £18; large, £35
A board or shallow bowl is a great way to present a platter of fruit at an informal supper. At lunch, serve a loaf of homemade bread on a wooden board or tray. Leave the bread unsliced so guests can help themselves. Cheese was made to be served on wood, with a few grapes. Nothing else comes close. To complement a curry, use a wooden board to serve a pile of poppadoms alongside a bowl of lime pickle. End a meal with a pile of unshelled nuts, served on a rustic board. Don’t forget the nutcrackers.
3 4 5
tray bien Rolled-edge serving tray in American oak; £45
A wooden chopping board has that wonderfully organic, grainy feel, and it will last for years, ageing beautifully 48
natural beauty ‘Bark’ presentation board in solid English oak; medium, £60
Go to jmecollection.coM
for more details
A classic ProvenĂ§al recipe, some vegetables and roasts â€“ what an elegant way to bring a little Mediterranean sunshine to a family feast this winter Recipes and food styling Andy Harris Photography David Loftus
it all starts with mayonnaise
Coco dinner plate, £40 (set
Garlicky mayo (right) is just
of 4); curved very tiny bowl,
aïoli. Add vegetables, eggs
£15; pestle and mortar,
and meats and you've got
£35. Opposite: small Flo
a grand aïoli – a meal for
grinder, £30; pestle and
many that can be as simple
mortar, £35. All Jme
or elaborate as you like.
Collection; see page 114
the vegetable course
Coco cereal bowl, £28 (set
Of a Grand aioli
of 4); Flo grinder medium,
From left: Coco side plate,
£40, and small, £30; pestle
£35 (set of 4); Coco dinner
and mortar, £35; curved
plate, £40 (set of 4); rolled
very tiny bowl, £15. All Jme
edge serving tray, £65;
Collection; see page 114
jamie’s diary Words and photography Jamie Oliver
frid♦y night p ker things are pretty busy at the moment, which makes stealing a bit of time with the boys tough. But every five or six weeks, when things get cancelled at the last moment, me and a small army of ‘elite poker players’ gather at the lovely Dexter Fletcher’s house for a nice little poker night (ah yes, Dexter! Baby Face in Bugsy Malone). One of the other regulars is Jason Flemyng (ah yes, Jason! Brad in Spice World). So, it’s usually the three of us and whichever other reprobates turn up. It’s not serious poker but it is a nice opportunity for us boys to eat some good food, drink some nice wine and just generally talk a load of rubbish. We’re all settled now and, understandably, the women in our lives don’t like us being bloody idiots all the time, but I have to admit there’s still a part of me that enjoys it every now and then. Dexter, being a bit of a poker impresario, runs the cards; I’ll often bring the starter or main course, and Jason will bring the cakes! If you think it seems a bit funny that a fully grown man loves making pretty cakes so much, I have to say, I agree. But, we all enjoy eating them and I must admit he’s pretty good at them! At the last poker night I made a pork loin wrapped in cured ham with a gorgeous, thick gravy of red wine, stock and jam. Lovely! And, of course, Jason made a cake, a delicious citrus and pistachio one that − as you can see − he was very proud of!
Jason Flemyng’s Citrus and Pistachio Cake
Serves 8–10 200g butter 250g caster sugar 3 eggs, preferably free-range or organic 100g shelled pistachio nuts 100g ground almonds Zest of 1 lemon 1 tsp rosewater 60g self-raising flour Icing 100g unrefined icing sugar Juice of ½ a lemon Edible flowers, to decorate (optional) 1 Preheat oven to 180°C/gas 4. Line the base of a 23cm-diameter cake tin with baking parchment. 2 In a bowl, cream the butter and sugar together until white and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring in between. Using a pestle, bash the pistachios up in a mortar, then add them, the ground almonds and the lemon zest to the creamed butter mixture. Fold in the flour. 3 Spoon the mixture into the cake tin and bake for 25–30 minutes. Remove when done and let cool. 4 In a bowl, mix the icing with half the juice and spread this over the cake when cool, then add some flowers to decorate, and serve.
Most of these pics are of our boys' nights but the ones of Dexter and me (centre, right) and Mark Owen (top, right) are from Jason's stag night. Poker is more casual; at our last one, I did pork loin and we had Jason's cake (you should use edible flowers if you make this).
FROM india to the east end and back again Recipes Deep Mohan Singh Arneja Photography Tara Fisher Words Paul Dring
HOME From home Indian chef Deep Mohan Singh Arneja sizes up the sugar cane on sale at Brick Lane supermarket Taj Stores.
“You can find the same basic curry anywhere in India,” says Deep, “but the moment you add the ginger and fennel, it becomes Kashmiri.” Serves 4–6 4 cloves of garlic, peeled 1 thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled 1 whole leg of lamb, boned and cut into 3cm cubes 100ml mustard oil 3 green cardamom pods 2 sticks of cinnamon 2–3 blades of mace 3 red onions, chopped 1½ tbsp ground coriander 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder 6 fresh tomatoes ¼ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground fennel seeds 1 In a pestle and mortar, mash the garlic and ginger to a paste and put to one side. 2 Heat a saucepan on a medium heat. Add the oil, cardamom, cinnamon, mace and onion and fry gently until golden. Add the lamb. Fry, stirring, until browned on all sides. Season with salt and add the ginger and garlic paste. Fry, stirring, for 15 minutes, or until everything is dark brown and aromatic. Add the coriander and chilli powder. 3 Whizz the tomatoes in a blender and add to the pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5-20 minutes until the lamb is cooked through and the tomatoes have reduced to a lovely, rich brown sauce. Add a little water to adjust the consistency if you like. 4 To finish, stir in the ground ginger and fennel.
mango and lime cooler
Actually pinkish in colour, black salt is a mineral-rich salt added to drinks for its cooling properties. Serves 4 2 green mangoes, peeled, stoned and roughly chopped 90ml lime juice 3 tbsp caster sugar ½ tsp black salt ½ tsp cumin powder 1 small bunch mint, leaves picked 4 green cardamom pods, seeds only 1 Bring a pan of water to the boil. Add the mango and simmer for 20 minutes, until soft. Drain and cool. 2 Put in a blender with 1 litre water, a pinch of freshly ground black pepper and all the other ingredients and blitz. Serve over ice with lime.
Serves 4 ½ tsp salt ½ tsp chilli powder 1½ tsp ground coriander ½ tbsp ground turmeric ½ tsp dried mango powder (amchoor) 500g okra, washed and wiped dry 75ml mustard oil 1 red onion, thickly sliced 1 small green mango, peeled, stoned and thinly sliced 1 thumb-sized piece of root ginger, cut into thin matchsticks 1 Mix the salt and spices in a bowl. Using a paring knife, trim the tops of the okra. Make lengthways slits down the middle of each, then, with the blade of the knife, pick up a little spice mix and sprinkle it inside. 2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan or wok on a medium heat. Add the onion, cook gently for a minute or two, then add the okra and mango,
and any remaining spice mixture. Cover and cook on a low heat, stirring occasionally, until the okra softens. Add the ginger and cook with the lid off for 15-20 minutes or until soft, sticky and caramelised.
These stuffed potato patties are a popular Indian street food. Makes 6 pieces 200g urad dal (small white lentils) 500g potatoes, peeled 500ml groundnut oil ½ tsp root ginger, grated 1 small green chilli, finely sliced ½ tsp chilli powder ¼ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground coriander 1 tbsp dried mango powder (amchoor) 1 tbsp sultanas 30g frozen peas 1 Put the dal in a bowl and cover with cold water. Rinse well with
“These are the foods that when you come to India you simply can’t afford to miss”
Stall order Dahi papri chat (top) is a popular Indian street food, as is aloo tikki (left) served with fresh green chutney. Leftover chutney is good in shop-bought puris (top left).
STOCKHOLM The reputation for cool design is deserved, but Swedenâ€™s capital surprises with its accessibility, relaxed vibe and fantastic, fresh food Words Andy Harris Photography & illustration David Loftus
Photography David Loftus Styling Megan Morgan
ISLAND HOP Some of the small ferries and pleasure boats that regularly criss-cross between Stockholmâ€™s inner-city islands.
swedish Design classics Head to Modernity for vintage ceramics such as (middle) a rare 1960s statuette with raised arms by Hertha Hillfon. (Is that an Ikea Expedit unit they're stored in?)
Design stores Swedish design can lead to a dangerous, expensive addiction. You start off with lovable, utilitarian IKEA, then acquire a lifelong, Bergmanesque obsession with the more elusive, brooding masters of Scandinavian design. I’m still thinking about some covetable Arne Jacobsen, Alvar Aalto and Verner Panton chairs, Axel Salto ceramics and Berndt Friberg pots on view at Modernity, just one of the many inspirational design stores around town. Andrew Duncanson (right) made the canny move to Stockholm from Scotland in 1998 to open this store which has quickly become a mecca for fans of ‘Scandinavian mid-century modern’. At another institution, Svenskt Tenn, going strong since the 1920s, houses timeless furniture and textiles from a coterie of classic designers, including founder Estrid Ericson and her long-time collaborator Josef Frank. Here you’ll find more than 160 of Franks’ sensual botanical wallpaper and fabric prints. I also loved Skansen Hemslöjd’s soothing mix of homely linen and delicate Lapp bark baskets and the nearby Party Store devoted to paper products, with some gloriously tacky ephemera for that other national obsession, kräftskiva (crayfish parties).
modern master Andrew Duncanson (above), owner of Modernity (top left, top right). Colourful products from Skansen Hemslojd (above right, left, below) and Party Store (below right).
Photography David Loftus Styling Megan Morgan
black magic Beef in stout with celery and tarragon, before and after (opposite)
Love me tender Take it slow... They take an age to cook but rich, comforting braises are well worth the wait Recipes Pete Begg Photography William Meppem Food styling Hannah Dodds
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