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JADE BARLTROP N0356527


CONTENTS

{ } 1. Introduction 2. Methodology 3. SWOT Analysis 4. Consumer Profile 5. Collaborations 6. Sportswear 7. Digital Trends 8. Conclusion 9. Recommendations 10. List of Illustrations 11. Reference List 12.Bibliography 13. Appendix

P. 1-4 P. 5-10 P. 11-12 P. 13-16 P. 17-26 P. 27-34 P. 35-46 P. 47-48 P. 49-60 P. 61-64 P. 65-68 P. 69-72 P. 73-108


P. 1

INTRODUCTION

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Fig 2, Universalworkbobblehats, 2012.


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The aim of this report is to look at the current fashion market, particularly menswear with a focus on the brand Universal Works (UW). 2012 has been a good year for men’s fashion with the first ever launch of a Fashion Menswear committee which was formed by the British Fashion Council (BFC), who are predominantly known for London Fashion Week. LFW is ‘one of the highest profile fashion events in the world and one of the ‘big four’ international catwalk influencers.’ (BFC, 2013: Online) Mintel explains how the committee aims to raise importance of men’s fashion in the hope of sparking international interest in British menswear designers in order to increase the number of sales in this category (2012: Online). In June 2013 BFC are giving established and up and coming designers, some being competitors to Universal Works, the chance to showcase their talent in order to attract buyers from around the world, broadening the men’s market.

‘it was called Universal Works because the products do work.’ (Keyte, 2012: Lecture).

David recently opened his first store in September 2012 on Lamb’s Conduit Street London and shortly following he launched a fully functioning website which shows how new the brand is.

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Being aware of fashion events such as these and the impact they have on the industry, ‘it cannot be denied that menswear is becoming stronger than ever’ (Pringle, 2012: Online) the brief for this project, which has been set by Universal Works a newly formed menswear brand established in 2008, is to design an innovative way of supporting and expanding the brand to expand its retail presence and increase sales. UW originated from Nottingham but has been well received in other fashion capitals such as London, New York and Berlin. Its clothing aims to mix British heritage with a modern and international twist in order to provide sustainable and wearable items. David Keyte the manger of UW spoke about the brand explaining

Fig 3, Universalworkphotoframes, 2012.

Working in a group with fellow students, Natasha Arnold and Sophie Boyd the path that was chosen for this report was product expansion and brand narrative in order to create a recommendation that would be most beneficial for UW in the foreseeable future. This report will focus on men’s lifestyle habits, trends and mainly male fashion brands in order to produce the best possible outcomes for UW.


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METHODOLOGY To gain an in depth understanding of the men’s fashion market and the male consumer’s shopping habits and attitudes towards fashion; research was carried out in various methods.

Fig 4, Ipadquestionnaire, 2012.

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DATE METHOD 25/10/12 Lecture

2.1

PRIMARY RESEARCH

Primary research took place throughout the research of this report which allowed us to gain insightful information from store brand managers and assistants to understand the men’s fashion market, how it impacts their brand and where they see it going in the future. With this is mind, interviews and shop visits were conducted. Fig 5 identifies these people and why they were chosen.

To gain an understanding of consumer profiles and their behavior, input from the general public was considered. This research was collected in the form of online surveys and consumer interviews.

Oct 2012- Lecture Jan 2013 Online Survey

26/11/12 Interview

SAMPLE David Keyte (Brand Manager)

PURPOSE & EVALUATION David gave an initial lecture about the brand discussing where it originated from, where it is in the market and where he would ideally like to see it going in the future. He spoke about how certain elements of the brief could be tackled in order to create a successful outcome. Overall the lecture provided insightful and direct information from the most valuable source possible 70 males The survey was sent out through online aged from platforms: Email, Facebook and Twitter. It 21-36 was used to get initial feedback on male lifestyle trends, how they interact with technology and their views on certain concepts in the fashion industry. This was to establish potential ways in which UW could adapt their products or online platforms. With 43.4% stating their favourite type of product was footwear followed by 25.0% stating sportswear shows this could be a space in the market for UW to go down. Taking the idea of product expansion Store Managers/ further meant primary research was Assistants necessary. Visiting UW influential London competitors took place whereby interviews were filmed by a group member whilst another interviewed sales assistants and managers’ asking them what their most popular item sold in store was. They were also asked what their views on collaborations were, if the store had done any and their success. This research gave some industry perspective on past collaborations with the understanding that there is still a market for them, but that it needs innovating. The research also concluded that not many stores were aware of Universal Works, so it needs to create more brand awareness, potentially in the form of digital innovations.

APPENDIX 13.3

13.4

13.5


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3/12/12

Email Interview

13/01/13 Email Interview

David Holden (Store Manager)

David is a not only sales assistant for UW, he is also a consumer. The email that was sent to David included several questions about his personal interests outside of fashion so that the UW consumer could be understood in a bit more detail, for example knowing his hobbies and general interests.

13.7

Martin Gill (Buyer of UW)

The email was sent to Martin with the intention of finding out his personal views on collaborations, the sportswear market and the menswear market as a whole. His feedback was promising in that he feels there is still a market for collaborations. He also spoke of some interesting collaborations that he felt did not work for example Nike and RedWings.

13.8

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Fig 5, Methodologytable, 2013.

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18/12/12 Interview

PURPOSE & EVALUATION APPENDIX Store environment is essential for a brand 13.5 and the way it is viewed by consumers. Taking primary imagery allowed for the stores to be compared with UW in order to understand how their products are marketed. Using an iPad the questions asked were 13.6 10 males aged from relating to the consumers lifestyle choices. To establish if there was a trend anywhere 20-41 in Shoreditch that could be picked up on and applied to London the outcome for UW. The questions asked the consumers of their shopping habits and views on fashion concepts. 7 out of the 10 male interviewees said they shopped online at their favorite brand as well as in store. We also took group photos of these consumers.

2.2

SECONDARY RESEARCH

The starting point of research was to look into Universal Works to gain an understanding of how the brand was established, where it lies in the market and who its consumers are.

The next step was to research a variety of sources to gain a deeper understanding of fashion, lifestyle and digital trends. WGSN and Stylus are vital trend publications that were looked at throughout the research of this report. Their up to date information provided on trend reports that helped in the process of identifying Universal Works target consumer and potential final ideas to ensure they would sit well in the current market. Mintel was also used a lot within this report for its figures on the digital trends market, and for looking at how portable devices are changing the impact of consumer shopping habits.

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Fig 6, Universalworksbusinesscards, 2012.

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DATE METHOD SAMPLE 26/11/12 Photography Competitor storesLondon


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SWOT ANALYSIS

Fig 7, Universalworksscarf, 2012.

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{WEAKNESSES

-UW have a journal with appealing interests outside of fashion however it has room to improve in content -More flagships would provide an opportunity for physical sales to an international market -The website could be further improved with interactive features and video content -Narrative could be strengthened throughout the brand: ideas of provenance, real, modern, understated, quirky.

{OPPORTUNITIES

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-Limited stockists both online and instore: therefore UW are losing out on sales -Only one flagship with limited space which means the brand has difficulty stocking items such as footwear -Online presence does not have a consistent layout- giving off a poor brand image -Limited budget.

-Competitors with a similar brand ethos such as Folk present an ongoing threat to the success of Universal Works -Traditional values clash with a brand that is so new to its market. Stockists such as Present favor heritage brands such as Wolsey -Competitors offer a wider range of products including footwear, grooming, homewear and collaborations -Compared to other competitors, UW limits their social presence, lack of brand awareness and opportunity to attract a wider audience.

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THREATS

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-Founded in 2008: the brand is still new, there is room for improvement and expansion -Garment ethically hand tailored: stocked in small numbers and made by 10 to 15 manufacturers -Accessible: although a niche brand, the design is simple, functional and timeless. Has the potential to appeal to a wider audience -Brand background adds depth to the overall brand perception.

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CONSUMER PROFILE:

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THE URBAN ACTIVE MAN

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To ensure that Universal Works continues with its success, David designed the garments to have an ‘ageless approach’ (Keyte, 2012: Lecture) so that the products would keep selling. By targeting the products at people of all ages to ensure a certain consumer demographic wasn’t missed out. Focusing on males over the age of 20, UW store assistants are people of a higher age, allowing customers to relate and communicate with them. Interviewing David Holden, the store manager and a key consumer of UW gave insightful information of the consumer profile. The main points that were picked up were his interests outside of fashion, running as a hobby and being part of the Nike ‘run dem crew’. David explained how the brand does not use well-known models in their campaigns and lookbooks, but ‘real’ people instead. The reason for this being that UW wants the clothes to be about the wearer and their relationship with the product with each customer feeling valued. Aware that the garments are designed for men in everyday settings at home and in work, further research was carried out in order to narrow down Universal Works’ target consumer. UW is a lifestyle brand that wants to know about the consumers’ active interests outside of fashion, and tries to communicate this through their online journal. Speaking and discussing daily hobbies as well as interests in music, cuisine, art and history. The UW consumer is open minded, culturally aware and intrigued by new things. They have a relationship with fashion but don’t act slavishly towards it by following the latest trends.

It came to the attention of the group that Universal Works’ identified consumer is therefore the Urban Active Man: the inner city upwardly mobile consumersthose actively requiring outdoor performance wear. ‘Active wear is entering a new era for urban consumers, combining innovative technical fabrics with contemporary looks.’ (Stylus, 2011: Online) Aware of their interests in fashion and functional clothing, further research was carried out. Interviews in Shoreditch, London, took place in order to find out consumers’ views on this type of product. 6 out of 10 people interviewed said that they shopped more for fashion as opposed to function, showing just how close in hand the design goes. Aware of the demand for this, David wants the Universal consumer to have a real need for and relationship with the product.


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DAVID HOLDEN

Fig 14, Levis, 2011.

Fig 8, TheGuardian, 2010.

Fig 11, Whiteflatcoffee, 2013.

Fig 9, NewYorkCity, 2012.

Fig 12, Standardhotel, 2012.

Fig 15, Inventorymagazine, 2013.

Fig 10, TheHives, 2013.

Fig 13, Menssneakers, 2011.

Fig 16, Liquorbar, 2010.

Newspaper: The Guardian Magazine: Inventory Musicians: The Hives Activity: Running City: New York Place to eat: Schillers Liquor Store NYC Place to drink: Roof of the Standard Hotel Non Alcoholic Drink: Coffee (Flat White) Alcoholic Drink: Guinness Sportswear/Casual wear brand: Adidas / Levi Vintage Formal wear brand: Double RL


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COLLABORATIONS

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Fig 17, UniversalworksxMillican, 2012.


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Taking the idea of product expansion, research was undergone to see what type would work best within the current fashion market. David showed a major dislike to the idea of opening up a womenswear range for UW stating that ‘women shop around for the cheapest products, proving it is a difficult market to tackle. Men however are either very lazy or loyal to a brand. They find one and continue buying from it.’ (Keyte, 2012: Lecture) He spoke of Universal Works’ past collaborations with brands such as Millican and the success of them, which led the group to further research of the collaboration market.

‘Collaborations have become an integral part of fashion collections, creating excitement around a brand, and providing space for a creative conversation.’ (Stylus, 2011: Online)

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They offer designers and brands the opportunity to exchange ideas, open up to a broader market and create brand awareness. Kyle Stewart, the co-founder of Goodhood, talks of their projects saying,

‘collaborations with our suppliers is a tried and tested way to create a point of difference. It can be a challenge but it’s ultimately beneficial for all parties.’ (Stewart, 2012: Online)

UW needs to work on its brand awareness and reach out to more people. However, if a collaboration was going to be implemented and applied to UW, it must not alienate their target customer by collaborating with a brand that doesn’t relate to Universal Works in any way, there would need to be a mutual benefit. Looking at this further, case studies were researched to understand how each brand/designer brought something to the collaboration. This is shown and spoken about in the following visuals.


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MARTINE ROSE x CATERPILLAR

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SUNSPEL x DR MARTENS

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“CAT saw the functionality and innovative comfort in Martine Rose’s clothes”

‘The collaboration is a celebration of British manufacturing and iconic style.’

DazedDigital, 2012: Online

Sunspel, 2013: Online

Fig 19, SunspelxDrMartens.2013.

Fig 18, MartinerosexCat, 2012.

CAT - durable quality - commercial brand but is global - heritage

MARTINE ROSE - functional and comfortable - fashion led - fabric brings luxury element

SUNSPEL - essential polo shirt - q14 cellular luxury fabric - elegant, stylish & comfortable design

DR MARTENS - 1460 style boots - iconic oxblood red - commercial success


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As a group, a trip was made to London to carry out primary research. Visiting influential and competitor stores, interviews were conducted to see their opinions on collaborations, if they had done one or are looking to in the future. The researched showed that each store had either done one or more collaboration and spoke of them very highly. The most obvious being Goodhood, who having done every type of collaboration, has decided to open up their gallery space into another shop to sell homeware. Further information about these visits and interviews is shown in these visuals.

INTERVIEW Name: Natalie

Store: Goodhood

Fig 20, Goodhood workshop, 2012.

What is the most popular item sold in store? The Norse sweaters

Have you done any collaborations? Yes. We have done all kinds of collaborations and will continue doing them. We use both the store and the gallery space which is across the road to exhibit the collaborations. For the Goodhood’s five year anniversary we did a collaboration with Knight Mills rugs. Due to the popularity of our home wear, the gallery is now becoming an extension to sell our home wear range. Do you sell much through your online store? Yes. A lot of our products are sold online as we ship everywhere.

Fig 21, Goodhood instore, 2012.


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INTERVIEW Store: Present Name: Billie

So what would you say is the most popular item sold in store? Do you know what, we sell a lot of knitwear. As I’m sure you can tell we have a lot of knitwear in stock. Year or year we probably sell more and more. We then also sell a lot of bits and bobs as it is not just clothing we sell. So we do well with bags because we are a menswear shop we have a lot of women come in. How do your grooming products sell? We offer lots of bits and bobs such as carmex, tea bags, tiger balm rulers. They sell well. However they are seasonal though, Christmas is when they really take off so during the summer it is not worth having them.

Do you do many collaborations at your store? Yep, we try to, it is always good. Although were at the climate now where collaborations are being done all the time and its getting a bit silly but it is nice to work with new designers, it brings a new element to what we do. We then have an in house brand called William Fox as well who were going forward and having collaborations with. So yeah we do try to do collaborations. What sort of collaborations do you find most popular? To be honest I think clothing because it is usually made in limited numbers and I think there’s still an appeal in having something others don’t have especially having something that in the future you won’t be able to get again.

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Fig 22, PresntInstore, 2012.

What’s your favourite brand personally? My favourite brand is a Japanese work wear brand based in New York but unfortunately due to problems they had last year, they couldn’t deliver but we should be getting their stuff back in in the next couple of weeks. It has got quite a heritage feel but it is very wearable. That’s it thank you Not a problem


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SPORTSWEAR

Fig 23, GoodhoodInstore, 2012.

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‘The casualwear and sportswear sector is shifting significantly for both menswear and womenswear, with a more dressed-up style evolving in the market.’ (Stylus, 2012: Online)

There has been a demand for clothing that can be worn across a number of different activities.

With the increase of urban activities such as cycling, consumers are more demanding about garments than ever before. The consumer interviews backs this up with 6 out of the 10 men interviewed all having an interest in a sport or outdoors hobby. They want a design that is both fashionable and functional to allow them to move from an outdoor activity to a city scene; however style will inform their final purchasing decision. Brands are focusing on technical and traditional fabric combinations with functional details to create sportswear garments. It is a niche market that is growing and will continue to do so. Elin Mohlander the export manager of Filippa K attended Bread & Butter Berlin 2012 and noticed that, ‘consumers want more from their clothes. They think more about quality and sustainability. They want to have a story behind the brand,’ (Mohlander, 2012: Online) this is what UW provides in its clothing, it just needs to be executed better. All of their garments are sustainably made in small, skilled factories, mostly in the UK, creating timeless and honest menswear that can be worn for any purpose.

Within the sportswear market more brands are using quality fabrics with a more dressed up style. Nike is one of the top two global leaders in the world for both active and fashion sports clothing and footwear. (Fashionmag, 2011: Online) Their release of Nike Flyknit in 2012 ‘revolutionizes sustainability in performance product.’ Nike’s aim was ‘to create garments to provide superior athletic power and lower environmental impact.’ (NIKEINC, 2011: Online) Not so much focusing on the fashion side of things but more on the function of the garment, Nike created a racer and trainer using reusable materials. Nike believes that, ‘to design for the future, we need to create products in a completely new way today.’ (NIKEINC, 2011: Online)

Pushing boundaries and introducing new ranges of clothes, which is what UW needs to do in order to expand its audience and brand awareness.

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Aware of the current trend in menswear clothing for form over function, with technical fabrics being applied to fashion designs led to research of the sportswear market.

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FIG 24, NikeFlyKnit, 2013.


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MARGARET HOWELL x GORE -TEX The application of a funcitonal fabric to a brand

MARGARET HOWELL - simple design - authentic - un branded

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GORE-TEX - functional design - light weight fabric - outdoor activity proof

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Fig 25, Gore-texCollaboration, 2009.


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INTERVIEW Store: Albam Name: Nigel

What is the most popular item sold in store? I’d say our denim. Just because we’re kind of known for our denim. We started with Japanese denim materials. It comes from Japan on tree’s and we get it woven there and then we craft it in our studios in Nottingham. So, our denim is the most important thing to the brand, then our cottons and our jerseys. Denim is second to none. How did you gain your brand awareness and get known for denim? I think we kind of gave the man a regular fit whether it be slim or fit. We gave a really comfortable alternative and it was at a really good price point for raw denim.

Have you done any collaborations at your store? We have done. I think our most common known one would be our Granson one, we did a footwear collaboration with them. We also did Aiguille rucksacks. They are a company based in Cumbria and they focus on technical luggage like backpacks and stuff. They went well with our brand ethos and the idea of climbing and biking. Its getting into the line between casual wear and technical wear. They were a really good brand to work with as we were able to make it more lifestyle from the technical side and make it appeal to the London man.

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Fig 26, MidiBackpack, 2010.

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What other brands do you think are good to collaborate with for the functional side? For example were looking at Gortex... For footwear I’d probably say New Balance. There a really good track shoe but they are also an everyday shoe. I think for us it’s more about the versatility between lifestyle and function.


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DIGITAL TRENDS

Fig 27, NikeFuelband, 2012.

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There is a demand and increase in online shopping, and Mintel estimates that

‘over the next four years the online fashion market will grow 86% to almost reach £9.4 billion in 2016.’ (Mintel fashion online, 2012: Online)

It is a vital selling platform for any new brand entering the market. Interviewing consumers, some of the questions asked were what technology devices they owned, and if they purchased clothing from online websites. All 10 of the men interviewed owned a smart phone and for some many more portable devices. This was an important method of research as it is these consumers that are buying from websites and competitors of UW. It was vital to identify their buying habits to be able to take forward pointers that may help UW with their online marketing. At present UW offers consumers the opportunity to buy from their flagship store, their online site, several other online stores such as ASOS and other retailers such as Urban Outfitters.

Men are more confident than ever before to shop and are consciously aware of their appearance. Mintel found that ‘men continue to spend more time on the internet compared to women and those aged 25 – 34 are most likely to purchase clothing from online stores such as ASOS,’ (Mintel digital trends, 2012: Online). This highlights the importance of ecommerce in menswear. Men are very tech savvy and smartphones are a common purchase that will continue to grow with, ‘48% of internet users having accessed the internet using their smartphones in the last three months,’ (Mintel digital trends 2012: Online) Users are spending more of their time blogging, researching and reviewing products on portable devices, highlighting the trend and importance of wanting technology on the move. Applications tailored to technology devices are becoming a must have for fashion brands. It is vital for brands to eventually introduce mobile or technology in some way. (Mintel fashion online, 2012: Online)

INTERVIEW Fig 28, Matt, 2012.

Name: Matt Age: 35 Occupation: Music producer Which area do you live in: South East What do you do in your spare time: Watch/play football, travel, Xbox What are your top 5 belongings: MacBook, Woolrich artic parka, Nike runners, acoustic guitar Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, smart phone, gaming device What are your top shops: Albam, Ebay, Nike but mostly vintage Do you visit their online website: Yes


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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Fig 29, Faz, 2012. Name: Faz Age: 38 Occupation: Menswear buyer Which area do you live in: Yorkshire What do you do in your spare time: Explore What are your top 5 belongings: Phone, laptop, tools, for work, car Which portable devices do you own: Tablet device, personal computer, smartTv, smart phone, eReader What are your top shops: Present, Blood Brother Do you visit their online website: I work for an online business, but don’t buy online

Fig 30, Dan, 2012. Name: Dan Age: 29 Occupation: Assistant manager at Barbour Which area do you live in: Lewisham What do you do in your spare time: Portrait work, build bikes What are your top 5 belongings: Necklace from my grandma, bike, jacket, Xbox Which portable devices do you own: Gaming device, smart phone What are your top shops: Vintage stalls, shops and markets Brands: Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Levis Do you visit their online website: Sometimes


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Due to fast moving trends in technology and the use of mobile apps, it is apparent that brands need to keep consumers enticed by the design of their main website. Mobile can have an effect on a brand’s perception and potential consumer loyalty. This is because app services need to capture consumer attention quickly to make them continue using it. There needs to be a consistent layout from portable devices websites which work equally as well across multiple devices; laptop, smartphone, tablet etc.

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‘a retail space like no other designed for today’s digitally enabled athlete. Featuring a seamless mix of innovative digital services and physical consumer experiences, the store is set to re-define the retail landscape forever.’ (Deezen, 2012: Online)

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Fig 31, NikeApp, 2012.

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NIKE FUEL STATION


Fig 32, NikePhone, 2012.


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People are drawn to visuals, ‘it is visual content that is proving the most successful for consumer engagement’ (Arthur, 2013: Online) with sites such as Pinterest, Tumblr and Instagram driving sales for brands and building relationships. Looking into the trend of visuals the group researched into fashion brands such as the Patrick Ervell website, a well-designed layout using moving imagery. When entering the website, ‘you’re faced with three rows of action-figure-size making the sort of gestures that are more commonly seen in the dressing-room mirror.’ (Macdonell, 2010: Online) The design is an exciting and visual way to view clothes, providing the customer with a different experience.

Fig 33, PatrikErvell, 2010.

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There is however a downfall to the trend in digital as consumers still want printed objects; they appreciate the handmade which online magazines cannot provide. There is no physical object. (Bilboa, 2012: Online) In WGSN’s 2012 marketing trends they noticed the need for greater creativity in video with the hope that in 2013 there will be an increased focus of video sharing. (Arthur, 2013: Online) Currently ‘digital music is more popular than digital video, though this is likely due to the age of the former market’ but with the older consumer becoming more fashion aware, ’preferring classic garments, whose longevity is not limited to the lifespan of the current ‘on-trend’ style’ (Mintel men’s fashion lifestyles, 2012: online) it proves there is a market for it to work.


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CONCLUSION

In conclusion this report has discovered the most vital trends that are going to happen within the fashion market, specifically in menswear. Having identified that, ‘fashion is becoming more important for menswear and men are paying a lot more attention to their clothing’ (Stevens, 2012: Online) is a promising point for Universal Works, who itself is a newly formed brand. Martin stated that

‘the market sector Universal Works sits in will fare quite well in 2013. There is a definite growth in interest in style for men; and men are prepared to spend on desirable product’ (Gill, 2013: Email interview)

with 24% of men investing in quality garments (Mintel Men’s Fashion Lifestyle, 2012: Online). Looking at the demand and vast range of collaborations, as well as the sportswear market shows there is a potential interlink here for functional fabrics, which sits in comfortably with Universal Works’ contemporary, utilitarian and accessible brand essence.

Discovering the latest trends in technology and aware that people are turning to portable devices, especially men, to browse or purchase clothes online shows that this is a possible recommendation to take forward in to the next semester.


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RECOMMENDATIONS

Fig 34, UniversalWorks clothes, 2012.

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Insightful information from store visits proved that there is still demand for collaborations. However, because it’s a saturated market brands need to be clever in the sense that they steer away from the obvious solution. This is because if nothing new or of importance was brought to either of the brands, it would mean the expense of the collaboration would be a waste and it could jeopardise the brands’ reputation. To ensure this isn’t the case, we have researched Universal’s main consumer who requires stylish active performance wear, a potential idea would be to collaborate with a brand whose products have a functional purpose in order to fulfill the urban active man’s needs. Inspired by the brands ethos in creating functional products that are built to last, as a group an initial idea put forward was to focus on a footwear range, specifically a walking boot or running shoe as this would sit comfortably amongst UW products. David initially said that he had approached New Balance for a collaboration, which shows he is keen in moving into this sector. The 2013 current trends in footwear are influenced by the sportswear market, ‘rugged outdoors story. Boots are a key item here.’ (WGSN, 2013: Online) However having visited Universal Works’ flagship store, it came to our attention that there is not enough storage space for this to be viable. Emailing Martin proved this point further as in reply to asking him if UW would open up to another collection he said, ‘yes, you would need another outlet for that collection given the store’s limited space. Online would provide an obvious solution to that problem and you can create a unique environment for the collection to sit in too. I would also consider opening up the distribution internationally to other key retailers in their relevant territories.’ (2013: Email interview).

Taking this into consideration and through further research of the sportswear market and the demand of practical clothing, a potential idea would be for UW to collaborate with a technical fabric rather than simply going for something obvious brand on brand like APC x Carhartt. Not stating this collaboration has not done well, as in its third year it continues to grow, it would just not be beneficial for UW, as being such a new brand it needs to find its own needs first.

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Fig 35, APCxCarhartt, 2008.

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As Universal Works is such a new brand, through research we found that there is more than one recommendation beneficial for the brand. Unsure of which will be taken forward and implemented, all will be discussed in this section and the final idea will later be decided and explored further in the second stage of this project.

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However, collaborating with a technical fabric does not change the style of the clothes, as it would provide what the urban active consumer requires; clothing built to last but with a sense of style. It would produce items of clothing that serve a purpose as well being aesthetically pleasing. A potential idea would be for UW to collaborate with a brand such as Gore-tex.


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The Anatomy of the: URBAN ACTIVE MAN

The main trend that has been seen within the digital market is the increased use of portable devices as they are a more convenient and flexible way of purchasing online. With consumers spending more time online and men being more techsavvy a group, an evaluation of Universal Works’ website was carried out. The conclusion was that it is somewhat lacking in digital innovations and consistency compared with other brands and there is therefore a need for it to be updated. Universal Works needs to make its website more visually stimulating in order to excite the consumer. With technology trends constantly evolving in retail, UW needs to be on top of its game. The group felt an idea could be to redesign the website to ensure it works just as well across multiple devises. A way in which this could potentially be approached is to use the example of Patrik Ervell and incorporate moving imagery into the Universal Works lookbook, as it is currently inconsistent and uses a range of imagery. The newly formed digital lookbook would clearly showcase the products in an interactive way to drive the number of sales.

Fig 37, Gore-tex, 2012.

Fig 36, ScoutAnorak, 2013.

UNIVERSAL WORKS - modern - universal - contemporary - quality

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GORE-TEX - high perfromance textile - waterproof protection - functional - un branded

Another way of getting people to understand the brand and what its history is about would be to use digital in another format. The design of UW garments relies heavily on the background of the brand. The task of the group was to make the brand narrative more apparent and through the research of digital trends an idea would be to introduce the use of film to show this. Moving away from the use of digital and appreciating the use and response of craft, the film that could potentially be created would be tailored to UW brand ethos. In order to create a quality product that has value and meaning which consumers can believe and relate to.


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Here are some visuals of what we imagine the film to look like. Using the Sunspel ‘Repton Boxing Club’ by Alasdair Mclellan as an example of kind of aesthetic/ camera being used in the industry. The film would showcase Universal Works garments but this would not be the main focus of creating it. The idea behind the film is to put forward the mood and narrative of the brand to create authenticity. With this in mind it would be shot in both a rural and city location to show the roots of the brand. It would be filmed on a Super 16 film as it is in line with the brand essence of: craft, honest, traditional, soul etc. David Keyte also said in the first lecture that he likes the use of ‘old mediums as print is dying out.’

‘Film would be the most exciting outcome as it is cheap and accessible.’

Fig 38, Sunspelreptonboxingclub1, 2011.

(2012: Lecture)

Fig 39, Sunspelreptonboxingclub2, 2011.

Fig 40, Sunspelreptonboxingclub3, 2011.


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{ RURAL VS CITY }

Fig 41, IDMagazine fresh and wild, 2012.

Fig 43, PurpleManchesterdivision, 2012.

Fig 44, Nikebridgerunners1, 2013.

Fig 45, Nikebridgerunners2, 2013. Fig 42, JWAnderson, 2012.


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Through further findings and changes in the menswear and digital market, the recommendation will be chosen in the next semester to ensure it is the most current and beneficial for Universal Works, to ensure it does eventually increase the brands awareness and sales.

Fig 46, UniversalGarments, 2012.


Fig 1, 2012. Klein, L., Glass Jar. Lineklein [online]. Available at: http://lineklein.blogspot.jp/ [Accessed 22 January 2013]. Fig 1, Group photo. 2012. Universal Works hat [photograph]. Fig 2, Group photo. 2012. Universal Works bobble hats [photograph]. Fig 3, Group photo. 2012. Universal Works photoframes [photograph]. Fig 4, Group photo 2012. Ipad questionnaire [photograph]. Fig 5, Barltrop, J., 2013. Methodology table [table].

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Fig 6, Group photo. 2012. Universal Works business cards [photograph]. Fig 7, Group photo. 2012. Universal Works scarf [photograph]. Fig 8, 2010. The Guardian. Kiosko [online]. Available at: http://en.kiosko.net/uk/2010-0505/np/guardian.html [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 9, 2012. New York City. Sfexaminer. [online]. Available at: http://www.sfexaminer.com/news/2012/12/city-issues-meningitis-health-advisory-gay-mentraveling-new-york [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 10, 2013. The Hives. Fanpop. [online]. Available at: http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/thehives/images/25137782/title/hives-wallpaper [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 11, 2013. White flat coffee. Pinterest [online]. Available at: http://pinterest.com/pin/281897257895593636/[Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 12, 2012. Standard Hotel. Losfornia. [online]. Available at: http://losfornia.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/standard-hotel-rooftop-bar.html [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 13, 2011. Mens sneakers. Sneakerflies. [online]. Available at: http://sneakerflies.com/ [22 November 2012]. Fig 14, Plonka, k., 2011. Levis. 14oz-berlin. [online]. Available at: http://14ozberlin.blogspot.co.uk/2011_07_01_archive.html [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 15, Nicholas. 2013. Inventory Magazine. Incipeindustries. [online]. Available at: http://blog.incipeindustries.com/inventory-magazine [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 16, Julie. 2010. Liquor Bar. Remodelista. [online]. Available at: http://remodelista.com/posts/hotels-lodging-restaurants-schillers-liquor-bar-in-new-york [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 17, Group photo. 2012. Universal Works x Millican [photograph].


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Fig 18, Hellqvist, D., 2012. Martine Rose x Cat. DazedDigital. [online]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/10861/1/martine-rose-x-cat-boots [Accessed 22 November 2012].

Fig 37, 2012. Gore-tex. Taunton Leisure. [online]. Available at: http://blog.tauntonleisure.com/2012/02/gore-tex-jackets-buyers-guide.html [Accessed 28 January 2013].

Fig 19, 2013. Sunspel x Dr Martens. Sunspel. [online]. Available at: http://www.sunspel.com/info/drmartens [Accessed 22 November 2012].

Fig 38, 2011. Sunspel repton boxing club 1.Ftape. [online]. Available at: http://ftape.com/media/?p=21410 [Accessed 28 January 2013].

Fig 20, Group photo. 2012. Goodhood workshop [photograph].

Fig 39, 2011. Sunspel repton boxing club 2.Ftape. [online]. Available at: http://ftape.com/media/?p=21410 [Accessed 28 January 2013].

Fig 21, Group photo. 2012. Goodhood instore [photograph]. Fig 22, Group photo. 2012. Present instore [photograph]. Fig 23, Group photo. 2012. Goodhood instore [photograph]. Fig 24, 2013. Nike Flyknit. Nike. [online]. Available at: http://www.nike.com/gb/en_gb/c/running/nikeflyknit?ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.co.uk%2F [Accessed 27 January 2013]. Fig 25, 2009. Gore-tex Collaboration. MargaretHowell. [online]. Available at: http://news.margarethowell.co.uk/gore-tex-collaboration/ [Accessed 22 November 2012]. Fig 26, 2010. Albam x Aiguille midi backpack. The DailyStreet. [online]. Available at: http://www.thedailystreet.co.uk/2010/10/albam-x-aiguille-midi-backpack/ [Accessed 27 January 2013]. Fig 27, Group photo. 2012. Nike fuelband [photograph]. Fig 28, Group photo. 2012. Matt [photograph]. Fig 29, Group photo. 2012. Faz [photograph]. Fig 30, Group photo. 2012. Dan [photograph]. Fig 31, Group photo. 2012. Nike App [photograph]. Fig 32, Group photo. 2012. Nike phone [photograph]. Fig 33, 2010. Patrik Ervell. Tmagazine. [online]. Available at: http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/20/now-online-patrik-ervell/ [Accessed 22 November 2012]. Fig 34, Group photo. 2012. Universal Works clothes [photograph]. Fig 35, 2008. APC x Carhartt. End Clothing. [online]. Available at: http://www.endclothing.co.uk/blog/a-p-c-x-carhartt-aw12-collection/ [Accessed 22 November 2012]. Fig 36, 2013. Scout Anorak. Universal Works. [online]. Available at: http://www.universalworks.co.uk/jackets-and-waistcoats [Accessed 28 January 2013].

Fig 40, 2011. Sunspel repton boxing club 3.Ftape. [online]. Available at: http://ftape.com/media/?p=21410 [Accessed 28 January 2013]. Fig 41, 2012. ID Magazine fresh andwild. Artpartner. [online]. Available at: http://www.artpartner.com/artists/image/alasdair-mclellan/ [Accessed 29 January 2013]. Fig 42, 2012. JWAnderson. MAPltd. [online]. Available at: http://www.mapltd.com/post/jamiehawkesworth/collaborateswithjwandersonfortopsho/ [Accessed 29 January 2013]. Fig 43, 2012. Purple Manchester division. Artpartner. [online]. Available at: http://www.artpartner.com/artists/image/alasdair-mclellan/ [Accessed 29 January 2013]. Fig 44, 2013. Nike bridge runners1. Tim-Barber. [online]. Available at: http://www.timbarber.com/albums/nike---bridge-runners [Accessed 29 January 2013]. Fig 45, 2013. Nike bridge runners1. Tim-Barber. [online]. Available at: http://www.timbarber.com/albums/nike---bridge-runners [Accessed 29 January 2013]. Fig 46, Barltrop, J., 2012. Universal garments. [photograph].


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REFERENCE LIST

ARTHUR, R., 2013. 2013 in marketing top trends. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 26 January 2013]. BFC, 2013. About London fashion week [online]. Available at: http://www. britishfashioncouncil.com/content/1143/London-Fashion-Week [Accessed on 23 January 2013]. BILBOA, K., 2012. Physical media isn’t going away [online]. Available at: http://monocle.com/ monocolumn/affairs/physical-media-isn-t-going-away/ [Accessed 20 January 2013]. DAZEDDIGITAL, 2012. Martine Rose x Cat boots [online]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/10861/1/martine-rose-x-cat-boots [Accessed 20 November 2012]. DEZEEN, 2012. Nike fuel station at Boxpark [online]. Available at: http://www.dezeen. com/2012/03/12/nike-fuelstation-at-boxpark/ [Accessed 20 December 2012]. FASHIONMAG, 2011. UK sportswear market value to grow 8.6% by 2015 [online]. Available at: http://uk.fashionmag.com/news-168456-UK-sportswear-market-value-to-grow-8-6-by-2015#. UQG7Ob9FWAg [Accessed 24 January 2013]. GILL, M., (martin@momagency.com), 2013. Some Q’s. 13 January. Email to: Natasha Arnold (studio@natashaarnold.co.uk).


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KEYTE, D., 2012. Universal Works. [Lecturer to Fashion Communication & Promotion, Nottingham Trent University]. 25 October 2012. MACDONELL, N., 2012. Now online Patrik Ervell [online]. Available at: http://tmagazine. blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/20/now-online-patrik-ervell/ [Accessed 29 October 2012]. MINTEL, 2012. Fashion Online. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 29 October 2012].

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PRINGLE, T., 2012. Suit Up [online]. Available at: http://itslavida.com/2012/11/suit-up [Accessed 30 October 2012]. STEVENS, A., 2012. Tablets help drive first rise in menswear sales in five years. Drapers [online], 30 August. Available at: http://www.drapersonline.com/tablets-help-drive-first-risein-menswear-sales-for-five-years/5040170.article [Accessed 26 January 2013].

MINTEL, 2012. Digital trends. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 29 October 2012].

STEWART, K., 2012. Ideas illustrated. [online]. Available via: Illustrated people [Accessed 20 January 2013].

MINTEL, 2012. Men’s fashion lifestyles. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 23 January 2013].

SUNSPEL, 2013. Sunspel x dr.martens [online]. Available at: http://www.sunspel.com/info/ dr-martens [Accessed 18 November 2012].

MOHLANDER, E., 2012. Sportswear market trades up. [online]. Available via: Stylus [Accessed 18 November].

STYLUS, 2011. Urban Active Man. [online]. Available via: Stylus [Accessed 18 November 2012].

NIKEINC, 2011. NIKE INC [online]. Available at: http://nikeinc.com/news/nike-better-world [Accessed 4 December 2013].

STYLUS, 2012. Sportswear market trades up. [online]. Available via: Stylus [Accessed 18 November 2012]. WGSN, 2013. A/W 13/14 London men’s catwalks: footwear top 5. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 25 January 2013].


ANON, 2013. Gore-Tex: waterproof [online]. Available at: http://www.thenorthface.com/ en_US/innovation/product-technology/gore-tex/ [Accessed 20 January 2013]. ARTHUR, R., 2013. 2013 in marketing top trends. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 26 January 2013].

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

BFC, 2013. About London fashion week [online]. Available at: http://www. britishfashioncouncil.com/content/1143/London-Fashion-Week [Accessed on 23 January 2013]. BFC, 2013. About NEWGEN men [online]. Available at: http://www.britishfashioncouncil. com/content/1143/London-Fashion-Week [Accessed on 23 January 2013]. BILBOA, K., 2012. Physical media isn’t going away [online]. Available at: http://monocle. com/monocolumn/affairs/physical-media-isn-t-going-away/ [Accessed 20 January 2013]. DAZEDDIGITAL, 2012. Martine Rose x Cat boots [online]. Available at: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/10861/1/martine-rose-x-cat-boots [Accessed 20 November 2012]. DEZEEN, 2012. Nike fuel station at Boxpark [online]. Available at: http://www.dezeen. com/2012/03/12/nike-fuelstation-at-boxpark/ [Accessed 20 December 2012]. FASHIONMAG, 2011. UK sportswear market value to grow 8.6% by 2015 [online]. Available at: http://uk.fashionmag.com/news-168456-UK-sportswear-market-value-to-grow-8-6by-2015#.UQG7Ob9FWAg [Accessed 24 January 2013]. FTAPE, 2011. Sunspel Repton Boxing Club Film [online]. Available at: http://ftape.com/ media/?p=21410 [Accessed 28 November 2012]. GILBEY, D and STURCH, K., 2013. A/W 13/14: Pitti Uomo trend analysis. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 25 January 2013]. GILL, M., (martin@momagency.com), 2013. Some Q’s. 13 January. Email to: Natasha Arnold (studio@natashaarnold.co.uk).


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HOLDEN, D, (davidholden@universalworks.co.uk), 2013. UW. 4 December. Email to: Natasha Arnold (studio@natashaarnold.co.uk). HOWELL, M., 2013. Gore-tex collaboration [online]. Available at: http://news. margarethowell.co.uk/gore-tex-collaboration/ [Accessed 20 October 2012]. KEYTE, D., 2013. Our Story [online]. Available at: http://www.universalworks.co.uk/about/ [Accessed on 23 January 2013].

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PATRIKERVELL, 2012. Patrik Ervell [online]. Available at: http://patrikervell.com/ [Accessed 7 November 2012]. PRESTON, LJ., 2012. Instagram-driven purchases: digital youth consumer. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 25 January 2013]. PRINGLE, T., 2012. Suit Up [online]. Available at: http://itslavida.com/2012/11/suit-up [Accessed 30 October 2012].

KEYTE, D., 2012. Universal Works. [Lecturer to Fashion Communication & Promotion, Nottingham Trent University]. 25 October 2012.

STEVENS, A., 2012. Tablets help drive first rise in menswear sales in five years. Drapers [online], 30 August. Available at: http://www.drapersonline.com/tablets-help-drive-first-risein-menswear-sales-for-five-years/5040170.article [Accessed 26 January 2013].

MACDONELL, N., 2012. Now online Patrik Ervell [online]. Available at: http://tmagazine. blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/20/now-online-patrik-ervell/ [Accessed 29 October 2012].

STEWART, K., 2012. Ideas illustrated. [online]. Available via: Illustrated people [Accessed 20 January 2013].

MASHABLE, 2012. Why Burberry wants to bring the online experience to stores, and not vice versa [online]. Available at: http://mashable.com/2012/09/24/burberry-regent-streetchristopher-bailey/ [Accessed 28 November 2012].

SUNSPEL, 2013. Sunspel x dr.martens [online]. Available at: http://www.sunspel.com/info/ dr-martens [Accessed 18 November 2012].

MINTEL, 2012. Men’s fashion lifestyles. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 23 January 2013]. MINTEL, 2012. Fashion Online. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 29 October 2012]. MINTEL, 2012. Clothing Retailing. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 29 October 2012]. MINTEL, 2012. Footwear Retailing. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 29 October 2012]. MINTEL, 2012. Digital trends. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 29 October 2012].

Sunspel Repton Boxing Club Film, 2011. dir. McLellan, A. STYLUS, 2011. Urban Active Man. [online]. Available via: Stylus [Accessed 18 November 2012]. STYLUS, 2011. Menswear x Collaborations. [online]. Available via: Stylus [Accessed 18 November 2012]. STYLUS, 2012. Sportswear market trades up. [online]. Available via: Stylus [Accessed 18 November 2012]. SYNAMATIX, 2010. ALBAM X AIGUILLE MIDI BACKPACk [online]. Available at: http://www.

MOHLANDER, E., 2012. Sportswear market trades up. [online]. Available via: Stylus [Accessed 18 November].

thedailystreet.co.uk/2010/10/albam-x-aiguille-midi-backpack/ [Accessed 20 November 2012].

NIKEINC, 2011. NIKE INC [online]. Available at: http://nikeinc.com/news/nike-better-world [Accessed 4 December 2013].

VANGROVE, J., 2012. Nearly 20% of facebook users skip the website all together [online]. Available at: http://venturebeat.com/2012/07/31/facebook-mobile-maus/ [Accessed 23 January 2013].

OIPOLLOLI, 2013. Universal works [online]. Available at: http://www.oipolloi.com/shop/ brand/universal-works [Accessed 15 November 2012]. PATEL, D., 2013. Luxury retailers leading the way with in-store technology. The Guardian [online], 15 January. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/ search?q=tech+savvy&section= [Accessed: 26 January 2013].

WGSN, 2013. A/W 13/14 London men’s catwalks: footwear top 5. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 25 January 2013]. WGSN, 2012. Sportswear brands: digital ranking. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 25 January 2013].


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APPENDIX

{ } 13.1 Declaration 13.2 Ethical clearance checklist 13.3 Lecture: David Keyte 13.4 Online Survey 13.5 Store interviews 13.6 Consumer interviews 13.7 Email interview: David Holden 13.8 Email interview: Martin Gill 13.9 Team minutes 13.10 Critical path 13.11 Team blog 13.12 Pinterest (collection of image research)

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13.2: ETHICAL CLEARANCE CHECKLIST

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Nottingham Trent University School of Art and Design

Ethical Clearance Checklist for individual student projects To be completed by the student for an individual project that involves the collection of primary data this includes images, drawings, photographs, questionnaires and interviews. Please complete this document following the guidance in the School of Art and Design Ethical Guidelines and Framework for Research and Practice Undertaken by Students. Section A: About the research

13.1: DECLARATION FORM

School of Art & Design ba

fcp3

Name: Programme of Study: Module Title and Reference Number:

Declaration Form 2012/13 Module: Negotiated Project Stage 1 Module Leader: Tim Rundle Ref. no: FASH30001

I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.

Name of module leader/supervisor responsible for the management of the project Duration of project Project title

Jade Barltrop Fashion Communication & Promotion FASH3001: Negotiated Project Stage 1 201213 Half Year 1 Tim Rundle 5 months Universal Works

Section B: Training and experience Have you had previous experience of or been trained in the methods employed to collect data, and/or discussed with your supervisor? Have you been informed, given guidance, had issues outlined in relation to research ethics and consideration in relation to your project?

[ yes W [ iW n Section C: Methodology/Practice/Procedures i d n Does your proposed study involve procedures which are likely to cause physical, psychological, social or emotional distress to yes o participants or yourself? d w Does your proposed study involve the use of hazardous materials, other than those currently covered by the School Health yes o and Safety procedures?

This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed.

Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook.

signed ............................................................................................................

01/02/2013

date ...............................................................................................................

yes

Section D: Ethical checklist Does your project involve observing/questioning/the use of people in any way? Yes Please complete the remainder of the form [ No Go straight to Compliance with ethical principles and Declaration W your study involve vulnerable participants as described in the Student Ethical Toolkit? Does Does i your study involve observation and/or recording of identifiable participants without their knowledge? Will n participants give informed consent freely and be fully informed of the study and of the use of any data collected? Will participants be informed of their right to withdraw from the study? d all information on participants be treated as confidential and not identifiable unless agreed otherwise in advance Will and o subject to legal requirements? Will any recordings of participants be securely kept and not released for use by third parties? w Will storage data comply with the Data Protection Act 1998?

yes yes yes yes yes yes yes

w T iT ti lt noe l no ]e

no no] noM

iM

no c noi

no no

No

[ noW [ i W n i d n o d w o n/a w n/a T n/a i n/a T n/a t i lt n/a e n/a l ]e

rc IfTyou have selected an answer shaded in grey, you must submit a full application to the Subject REC or modify the project. A fullosubmission r raised to the Subject PREC comprises of: this form, a project proposal, an additional statement of up to 500 words outlining the ethical issues ]M i so by the project and the proposed approach to deal with these. iM t o s Compliance with Ethical Principles c l f If you have completed the checklist to the best of your knowledge without selecting an answer shaded in grey, the research is odeemedi to r e tf conform with the ethical checkpoints and you do not need to seek formal approval from the Subject PREC. c Please sign the declaration below, and lodge the completed checklist with your supervisor. o ] r t s W o Declaration M o I have read the Ethical Guidelines and Framework for Research and Practice Undertaken by Students. I confirm that the above iW named s i investigation complies with published codes of conduct, ethical principles and guidelines of professional bodies associated with the research f n o i discipline. c tf d n Jade Barltrop r of student: ……………………………………………………………………………… Name Signature of student ………………………………………………………………………………. o t d o W w Signature of supervisor/module leader ……………………………………………..…………………………..………. Date ……………………………………………………………….. o s iW sw o Form reviewed October 2011, final copy 14.10.11 n i s f d n t o d [ w o M [ W s


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13.3 LECTURE: DAVID KEYTE Lecture Lecturer: David Keyte Date: 25.10.12 Title: Introduction to Universal Works -The brand started in November 2008 -There is a collection of 40 garments and sold to retailers -He worked alone for a year -S/S and A/W show collection to boutiques and to large retailers at trade fairs and show rooms -100 stores now buy the collection -Increased members of staff due to the new website and need of accounts and production team -10/15 manufacturers -9weeks ago they opened a store in London and 2weeks ago launched a website Internet changed fashion dramatically- get your vision out. -Product, called universal works because it works

Strategy was to target brands that have websites -initially UK companies -Oil-Polloi Manchester has a certain look which has become world wide -design a product that would suit the buyers needs -Oki-ni, don’t like the showroom as opposed to product

-Their clothes may not sell but it gives the brand a certain image -Urban Outfitters offers a better brand list, not because it sells- certain place to be in the market -Smaller stores bought to look cool but also buy products in bulk numbers to make a profit -Well-designed products can be commercial -Not cheap like highstreet stores such as Topshop and H&M but not high end designer -Affordable clothes that reasonably stylish for boys -Special pieces they sell more to clients Role of agent-Martin Gill -Sell to shops he knew would sell for Universal such as Oliver Spencer and Margret Howell

Selling: Sales team- direct to retail/ trade stands Agent- takes commission to sell stuff Martin’s brands attracted a certain retailer -Good/ bad thing for Universal. Similar clothes but also back ups There are 5 agents across the world: -Berlin, Paris, New York, London, Tokyo, Copenhagen

Agent- sells the product and takes commission on the sale

Distributor- he pays the guy and gets money from shirts. Makes less money but bigger orders Agents in: -UK, Scandinavia, New York, North America, Belgium Distributor in: -Japan, Germany, Switzerland

Seeks how at Bread and Butter -Korean, Canadian, Swedish, English stores -None for Germany, hence looking for agent

Inspiration: -less revolution, more evolution in menswear -20% of what you can do with womenswear, SHAPES -Universal Works needs to be commercial, understandable menswear- the ability to wear in a pub -classic mens shape -made designs relevant to now, be aware of current surroundings -both worked in fashion industry before- referencing/ influences/ back catalogue of fashion ideas and references -Stores may latch on because other people have bought it -Said no to ASOS for 3 seasons but finally said yes- personal issue because their reason to exist was to make cheap copy of things -Anti the bigger clients. Not run by people interested in garments. Do for money reasons and not enjoyment -Driven by profit margin. Have to give discount -Smaller companies more interesting and exciting -ASOS buy a lot of certain pieces -Make less money but a necessity -Favours, no one really wants to make their product


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-Manufactures 10/15 across the world- but people he’s worked with for a long time -British brand therefore need to make clothes in Britain -Ethical factory from start to finish Womenswear: -Time -Steph (wife) doesn’t want to do it all -Difficult market -Men either lazy or very loyal. Find a brand they like and keep buying from it -Women shop around for the cheapest product Development: -Marketing the biggest area? Priority yes!

-If the product doesn’t last people won’t buy again -Good product means people will come back and buy -Sell enough men’s to make it less hard then start on womens/ shoes etc. -Old medium is dying out, print is dead -Film most exciting, it’s cheap and accessible

Make the product age less -market at people of all ages. 20 + -don’t use models in their campaign, want to keep it real -not restricted to young people -style of the wearer -older people more money? Focus range at them? -keep breadth of appeal a broad as possible -understand motivation of 45-55 year olds Marketing: -the people working in the shop (older than 20) -consumers relate to them -do exciting things to tell the brand story Brand ethos- ageing/ fresh

Product endorsement- biggest marketing tool -Universal doesn’t want it to be about a person but the product -a real consumers relationship to product

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Website: -talks about music, fishing etc -social media usage- normal people e.g. shirt, fishing, what their eating et. -interaction and communication e.g. what’s the weather like where you are? -Let them buy things through interest, don’t want to shove/ sell it at them -Shop in Bloomsburg, a residential area (in 5 years will be a big street?) -4 blogs on the website, 1 through enjoyment with no money involved Be realistic, bigger strategy means more staff needs to be employed Product extension, interesting design -brand collaboration -co branding E.g. Millican bags, J shoes, Smedley knitwear New Balance? NOT shoes but also sportswear clothing Events: -not alone based company -want to make it work in London -Northern English blue collar. Utilitarian clothing -roots are in Nottingham Had a kidswear store several years ago Pop up store has been done Competiotrs: -Folk -YMC -Nors -Our Legacy

German standard store for Japan -clothes for women XS/S/M -low budget so be creative Collection: -shapes -utility -design Clothes: -wearable -sustainable -affordable


13.4 ONLINE SURVEY


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13.5: STORE INTERVIEWS INTERVIEW ONE- Seen in the body of the report. Store: Present Name: Billie INTERVIEW TWO Store: Article Name: Billy

What is the most popular item sold in store? Um, well we’ve got loads of Vans, so everyone always comes in for a pair of Vans but I couldn’t say a specific item.

Has there been any collaborations at your store so far? Yeah, we do Grenson and Barbour and I think we have some more coming up but i’m not entirely sure. Has there been a favourite collaboration yet? The Grenson and Barbour ones are really nice. I really like the Grenson shirt. Anything with Grenson in is pretty nice to be honest.

So what line of collaborations would you like to see in the future? I think we are planning to do more accessories and stuff were going to start getting more prints in, anything like that with t-shirt print might be quite good. Do you personally have any favourite brands? Um me, I quite like the Native Youth we just got in recently. I also really like Berlin based brands they make really nice clothes. Ok that’s all, thank you No worries


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INTERVIEW THREE

INTERVIEW FOUR

Store: Nike ID Name: Matt

Store: Folk Name: Russell Barratt

So do you think there is a demand for your product? Yeah I would say so. I mean you can have your name on the shoe.

Do you do many collaborations in store? We have done in the past but we haven’t done many for a while. We’ve got a big one coming up next year but i’m not allowed to say. Then we’ve got a couple more in the pipe line for next year but that’s got to stay top secret until next year.

How popular do you find the most personalised trainer? We get loads of people coming in and browsing but not too many are actually aware of Nike ID but yeah I think it’s actually getting more popular. ?? Do you think having such a unique experience is good for Nike as a brand? It is definitely good because you can also do it online but online you don’t get the actual swatches. Here you can see the actual colours and texture, which helps you visualise the shoe better. It also really helps promote Nike as a brand. What Nike collaboration has been your favourite? The latest Stussy collaboration was pretty nice, they did some nice shoes. Properly for me, one they did back in the day with Mister Cartoon and the Nike food trail.

What’s the most popular item sold in store? Probably our boom bomber, the reversible jacket is probably the best seller from this season.

What sort of collaborations do you like yourself? Probably clothing to be honest. I do like home wear now that I’m getting a bit older so a bit of both.

What’s your favourite brand personally? After Folk, I love Margret Howell. I really like the stuff she does, she nails it every season. I also like Buzz Rickson and a couple of Japanese brands as well. But Folk as well obviously because I work here, it is a great place to work and the stuff is really good. In the terms of store of experience, how important do you think that is for the customer? I think the customer wants to know that the guys that are serving them know about the brand. Me and Stevie have both worked here with Folk from the first season. Its eleven years old this year and we’ve been fans of it since it first started. We both used to buy it from the shop we worked at in Birmingham where we both come from so we have always been fans of it. We know the brand, what it is about and its roots. I think most customers want to know that you understand the clothes and you’re not just selling to them you like wearing them too, which we all do. That’s it Thank You!  


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INTERVIEW FIVE

INTERVIEW SIX

Store: Murdock Name: Store Manager

Store: Wolsey Name: William

What sort of customer would you say you get coming into the store? We get a lot of guys coming in because we cater to an audience who want the traditional barber experience but they want it a little bit more updated. It’s a lot of guys who like the look, feel, aesthetics but they have a little bit more of a higher standard. It’s not a £10 hair cut its a little bit more luxurious than that, its not just a shave. So we get guys that want that.

How important do you think it is that it’s a northern brand? Its more midlands, its not that northern

Are your products sold anywhere else other than in your store? We do stock our products in places like John Lewis but I know there are some independent boutiques that stock them more up north but were exclusively only available in England right now.

What’s the most popular item you sell? Depends on what barber your talking to. I think the shave cream, it’s got an fresh aroma so its fresh citrusy and a lot of moisturiser to it. Its good, it’s what guys want. Could you see yourselves doing a collaboration with a fashion brand? Yes i could definitely see that. I think it would have to be carefully planned out. I’m not really sure what you could do in terms of shaving creams with fashion labels but I’m sure there’s something there to be explored.

What’s your favourite fashion brand personally? Off the top of my head the first thing that comes to mind is Comme De Garcons but in terms of everyday wear, my boss hates it but I love Fred Perry, everything Fred Perry as far as I’m concerned. I think you can wear that pair of jeans and be sorted.

Please can you tell us a little bit about the brand? The brand has been rebranded its a 26 year old brand. It started in Leicester and was named after Cardinal Wolsey. 4 or 5 years ago was brought out by the Hargreaves family who own Matalan. They have put a lot of money into the brand to republish the brand. This is the 2nd winter season we’ve had. The store has been here one year. It’s been focused around functionality, less about throw away fashion. So it’s really great functional clothing. We are trying to rebuild the industrial revolution into the clothing. Do you do any collaborations? No, not at the moment. Depends on the creative director, we’ve got a new one starting this time next year. So he could take it down that road, but at the moment we’re not sure. It’s still early days. Do you personally think collaborations would work? Definitely I think most especially men’s brands do well collaborating. APC x CARHARTT. Using the same manufactures but joining designers is really nice. What sort of collaboration would you like to see? (clothing, accessories, grooming, home wear) All the above, any collaborations are quite nice to see. I like seeing different teams working together.

What’s your favourite brand personally? Probably Carhartt just because that has the work wear history. I lived in Canada for a bit and they don’t treat the brand the way we do its used very differently it’s still very much a work wear brand.


INTERVIEW SEVEN Store: Albam Name: Nigel

What is the most popular item sold in store? I’d say our denim. Just because we’re kind of known for our denim. We started with Japanese denim materials. It comes from Japan on tree’s and we get it woven there and then we craft it in our studios in Nottingham. So, our denim is the most important thing to the brand, then our cottons and our jerseys. Denim is second to none. How did you gain your brand awareness and get known for denim? I think we kind of gave the man a regular fit whether it be slim or fit. We gave a really comfortable alternative and it was at a really good price point for raw denim.

Have you done any collaborations at your store? We have done. I think our most common known one would be our Granson one, we did a footwear collaboration with them. We also did Aiguille rucksacks. They are a company based in Cumbria and they focus on technical luggage like backpacks and stuff. They went well with our brand ethos and the idea of climbing and biking. Its getting into the line between casual wear and technical wear. They were a really good brand to work with as we were able to make it more lifestyle from the technical side and make it appeal to the London man. What other brands do you think are good to collaborate with for the functional side? For example were looking at Gortex... For footwear I’d probably say New Balance. There a really good track shoe but they are also an everyday shoe. I think for us it’s more about the versatility between lifestyle and function.

Are we right in thinking you’ve just started doing homewear? Yes, the fixtures we’ve got here in store are part of the homewear stuff that we do. They are interchangeable fixtures that we do. We’ve got a desk version at the Arcle Street store, so they are the basic templates of what we offer. They all get moved around so there is as much versatility as possible with a really simple aesthetic so it is not too loud but the quality is in the craftsmanship, which is something that we try and stick to. So customers are available to buy these fittings? Yes they are they just have to get in contact via our contact details and then we go from there. We like to be personable with our customers, so it would get sorted through a one to one basis.

What collaborations would you personally like to see Albam do? Personally, we always get a lot of brands funnily asking for underwear from us. We do really good Egyptian cotton tshirts which are our classics. A lot of men ask for underwear and socks in the same fabric. We do things in small runs and then people want more than it. We did some rucksacks a few seasons ago which have been asked for again. I would say hats as well. What’s your favourite brand outside Albam? Albam. Then outside Ralph Lauren. I’m really into the preppy American league style.

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INTERVIEW EIGHT Name: Natalie Store: Goodhood

What is the most popular item sold in store? The Norse sweaters

Have you done any collaborations? Yes. We have done all kinds of collaborations and will continue doing them. We use both the store and the gallery space which is across the road to exhibit the collaborations. For the Goodhood’s five year anniversary we did a collaboration with Knight Mills rugs. Due to the popularity of our home wear, the gallery is now becoming an extension to sell our home wear range. Do you sell much through your online store? Yes. A lot of our products are sold online as we ship everywhere.


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13.6: CONSUMER INTERVIEWS INTERVIEW ONE

INTERVIEW THREE

Name: Dougie Age: 32 Occupation: Photographer Which area do you live in: Shoreditch What do you do in your spare time: Photography, travel, swim, cinema What are your top 5 belongings: Watch, camera, laptop, phone, screen Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, smart phone, tablet device What are your top shops: Topman general, Barbour, Urban Oufitters Do you visit their online website: Yes How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 5 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 5 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Accessory range (bags, hats, belts, scarves) INTERVIEW TWO

Name: Janvier Age: 20 Occupation: Student and film director Which area do you live in: Camden What do you do in your spare time: Film, exploring What are your top 5 belongings: Laptop, camera, trainers Which portable devices do you own: Tablet device, personal computer, smart phone, gaming device What are your top shops: All Saints, Cheap Mondays, Office, Vintage shops Do you visit their online website: Yes How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 5 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 3 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Clothing range, Shoe range

Name: Max Age: 28 Occupation: Graphic designer Which area do you live in: Mile End What do you do in your spare time: Football, cinema, socialising What are your top 5 belongings: Boots, phone, computer, dog Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, smart phone, gaming device What are your top shops: Levis, Uniqlo Do you visit their online website: Yes How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 5 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 4 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Shoe range, grooming

Name: Faz Age: 38 Occupation: Menswear buyer Which area do you live in: Yorkshire What do you do in your spare time: Explore What are your top 5 belongings: Phone, laptop, tools, for work, car Which portable devices do you own: Tablet device, personal computer, smartTv, smart phone, eReader What are your top shops: Present, Blood Brother Do you visit their online website: Work for an online business, but don’t buy How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 9 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 5 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Clothing range, shoe range, accessory range (bags, hats, belts, scarves)

INTERVIEW FOUR


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INTERVIEW FIVE

INTERVIEW SEVEN

Name: Dan Age: 29 Occupation: Assistant manager at Barbour Which area do you live in: Lewisham What do you do in your spare time: Portrait work, build bikes What are your top 5 belongings: Necklace from my grandma, bike, jacket, Xbox Which portable devices do you own: Gaming device, smart phone What are your top shops: Vintage stalls, shops and markets Brands: Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Levis Do you visit their online website: Sometimes How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 5 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 5 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Shoe range

Name: Ben Age: 22 Occupation: Own a cafe Which area do you live in: Brentwood What do you do in your spare time: Play basketball, photography, party What are your top 5 belongings: Trainers, toothbrush, camera, jacket, telephone Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, tablet device, smart phone, eReader What are your top shops: Mr Porter, Ebay Brands: Nike, Diesel Do you visit their online website: Online provides more choice and it is more exclusive How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 7 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 7 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Shoe range

INTERVIEW SIX

Name: Matt Age: 35 Occupation: Music producer Which area do you live in: South East What do you do in your spare time: Watch/play football, travel, Xbox What are your top 5 belongings: MacBook, Woolrich artic parka, Nike runners, acoustic guitar Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, smart phone, gaming device What are your top shops: Albam, Ebay, Nike but mostly vintage Do you visit their online website: Yes How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 7 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 2 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Clothing range

INTERVIEW EIGHT

Name: Phil Age: 32 Occupation: Producer Which area do you live in: Gypsy Hill What do you do in your spare time: Musician What are your top 5 belongings: Laptop, guitar, boots, ucalaly Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, smart phone, eReader What are your top shops: Carhartt Do you visit their online website: Occasionally How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 5 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 4 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Clothing range


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INTERVIEW NINE Name: John Age: 41 Occupation: Vintage clothes seller Which area do you live in: Hackney What do you do in your spare time: Listen to gospel music What are your top 5 belongings: Car, computer, telephone, fridge, home Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, smart phone What are your top shops: Farmers market, vintage clothing Do you visit their online website: Occasionally clothing How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 0 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 9 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Accessory range (bags, hats, belts, scarves) INTERVIEW TEN

Name: Steven Age: 21 Occupation: Animator Which area do you live in: Brixton What do you do in your spare time: Pub, socialise What are your top 5 belongings: Laptop, coat Which portable devices do you own: Personal computer, smart phone, smartTv What are your top shops: OK OK Brands: Gant, Ben Sherman, Levis Do you visit their online website: Yes How would you rate yourself from 0 (high street) to 10 (designer): 5 Out of 0 (function) to 10 (fashion), how would you rate your reason for purchase: 5 What type of collaboration ranges are you most interested in: Shoe range

13.7: EMAIL INTERVIEW: DAVID HOLDEN From: Natasha Arnold <studio@natashaarnold.co.uk> Subject: Re: UW Date: 3 December 2012 16:31 To: David Holden <davidholden@universalworks.co.uk>

Hi David Thanks for all your help and advice - sorry to bombard your store over this past month! I’m just working on developing my consumer profile for the project, it would be interesting to hear more about your interests. If you get a spare moment I’d really appreciate if you could fill out the following: Name one (or more) of your favourite… Newspaper: Magazine: Musicians: Activity: City: Place to eat: Place to drink: Non Alcoholic Drink: Alcoholic Drink: Sportswear/Casual wear brand: Formal wear brand: All the best, Natasha From: David Holden <davidholden@universalworks.co.uk> Subject: Re: UW Date: 3 December 2012 13:28:11 GMT To: Natasha Arnold <studio@natashaarnold.co.uk>

Hey Natasha,

I hope this helps. Name one (or more) of your favourite… Newspaper: The Guardian Magazine: Inventory Musicians: The Hives Activity: Running City: New York Place to eat: Schillers Liquor Store NYC Place to drink: Roof of the Standard Hotel Non Alcoholic Drink: Coffee (Flat White) Alcoholic Drink: Guinness Sportswear/Casual wear brand: Adidas / Levi Vintage Formal wear brand: Double RL Regards David


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13.8: EMAIL INTERVIEW: MARTIN GILL From: Natasha Arnold <studio@natashaarnold.co.uk> Subject: Re: Some Q’s Date: 13 January 2013 11:48 To: Martin Gill <martin@momagency.com> Hi Martin,

I hope you’re well. As briefly spoken on Thursday - I was wondering whether you would be able to take part in a short interview (by email) for the Universal Works live project? It would be interesting to hear your opinion of where you think the menswear market is going. If you have a moment, here’s some questions: Q: Do you think there’s still a demand for collaborations in menswear? Absolutely! It’s a well-trodden and much abused path but in the right hands it can generate some really great product. I think companies and designers generally misuse the opportunity and simply stick some new branding on an old product. In fact I was sat opposite a guy on the train this morning with a very basic stripe beanie hat made out of the cheapest synthetic yarn with a Nike x Redwing label stuck on the front. I think Nike often churn out expensively priced but ‘cheap and nasty’ product; that in itself isn’t suprising. This particular product however, has nothing to do with Redwings at all and I feel it compromises the Redwing brand totally. I can only guess that Nike has bought Redwings and is churning out some crap to make money, Rant over! I still think that co-labs can work Q: Do you think there’s a market for a sportswear capsule collection by Universal Works which uses technical fabrics? (Think an extension of Margaret Howell’s Goretex jacket...) I would love to think so, but I don’t think Universal Works has enough brand equity just yet to diversify in this way. But over time it could be great to have defined collections under the overall label and in theory opens you up to a new consumer who values performance over style but the style aspect would be strong influence in the consumer’s purchase decision.

Q: Due to limited space in the UW flagship store, do you think the collection would work better as a limited stock sold exclusively online? If you are talking about a sportswear capsule collection then yes you would need another outlet for that collection given the store’s limited space. On-line would provide an obvious solution to that problem and you can create a unique environment for the collection to sit in too. I would also consider opening up the distribution internationally to other key retailers in their relevant territories.

Q: How do you think menswear will fare in 2013? I think the market sector that Universal Works sits in will fare quite well in 2013. There is a definite growth in interest in style for men; and men are prepared to spend on desirable product. However the current economic climate will supress the revenue from the growth in interest. Fundamentally the growth will be limited but it will be growth nevertheless, for the ‘right’ product. Middle market multi-brand retailing will be the hardest hit, (Bank, Republic, USC and House of Fraser) as own label product (Topman, River Island, Primark, Zara etc…) improves its design offer. In conjunction with smarter more effective marketing and retailing from the premium producers. This combined effect will further squeeze the middle. Also some more ‘ traditional Men’s retailers will struggle as they are left behind in the style stakes. There really is no margin for error and buying the ‘right’ product in for your store is difficult to predict. Sorry this is so late I thought I’d sent it days ago but it’s been sitting there as a draft. Regards Martin


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13.9: TEAM MINUTES Date: 25.10.12 Time: 15.00 – 15.45 Location: Newton building Members present: All Agenda: Review David Keytes initial briefing

Met as a group to share our initial thoughts to Universal Works and discuss the main points from David Keytes lecture. We concluded as a team we were not interested in pursuing womenswear brand extension as an idea. Date: 29.10.12 Time: 12.00 – 15.00 Location: Boots library Members present: All

Agenda: Initial ideas / Brainstorming session

Brainstorm initial ideas as a team. We ran through several concepts such as collaborations. Explored a walking boot or running shoe and spoke of examples such as Red Wings, Clarks, Timberland, CAT and Nike Freeruns. Selected themes for our research and delegated to each team member. This included digital trends, retail and men’s lifestyle. Main focus was Mintel reports to get a general feel for the market. Created a critical path to follow. Date: 31.10.12 Time: 12.00 – 14.00 Location: Boots library Members present: All

Agenda: Review Universal Works current website

Look over Mintel’s research as a team and brainstorm further ideas. We ran through several concepts influenced by the digital trends report such as redesigning the website and social presence. Created our own team blog; Tumblr for written notes and a Pinterest for visual notes. Aimed to make 3 blog posts each a week.

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Date: 18.11.12 Time: 13.00 – 15.00 Location: Designer Forum Members present: Sophie & Jade Visited designer forum to further research our initial findings. Focused on the consumer. Date: 18.11.12 Time: 16.00 – 17.00 Location: London Members present: Natasha

Agenda: Universal Works flagship visit

Made an initial visit to the Universal Works flagship to see the store layout, branding, collection and where the store was situated. This was fed back to the group the next time we met. Date: 20.11.12 Time: 12.00 – 18.00 Location: Boots library Members present: All

Agenda: Organise London visit

Organised London visit and prepared store research to carry out on the trip. Created a questionnaire for the group, researched stores to visit based on Universal Works competitors. Contacted store manager of Universal Works to let him know we would be stopping by. Collected essential equipment to take with us such as iPad and video recorder. Date: 26.11.12 Time: 12.00 – 18.00 Location: London Members present: All

Agenda: London visit - competitor research

Visited 33 competitors of Universal Works in areas around Covent Garden, Shoreditch and Holborn. Filmed interviews with store assistants and managers. Photographed in store layout and location. Carried out some questionnaires.


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Date: 29.11.12 Time: 12.00 – 15.00 Location: Boots library Members present: All Agenda: Create research presentation

Discussed our findings from the trip to London. Organised the photos and went through the filmed interviews to narrow down findings. Created a structure and layout for presentation. Date: 01.12.12 Time: 1.00 – 15.00 Location: Boots library Members present: All

Agenda: Practiced research presentation

Book a study room in the library. Designated slides for the presentation and ran through it to ensure we didn’t over or under run on time. Date: 04.12.12 Time: 14.00 – 17.00 Location: Boots library Members present: All

Agenda: Present research presentation to David Keytes and tutorial group

Presented our 10minute research presentation and gathered feedback from the tutors and peers. Date: 18.12.12 Time: 12.00 – 19.00 Location: London Members present: All

Agenda: London visit – consumer research

Carried out research in various areas of London such as Shoreditch. Filmed interviews and took street style photos. Conducted a questionnaire on iPad.

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Date: 09.01.13 Time: 13.30 – 17.00 Location: Boots Library Members present: All Agenda: Map out a structure for the report.

Put together research findings to see what further research was needed. Created chapter headings for the reports structure. Discussed a general outline of what was going to be written in the report. Date: 13.01.13 Time: 11.00 – 18.00 Location: Boots Library Members present: All

Agenda: Conclude our research as a team in preparation to write the report individually

Transcribed interviews, discussed points that would go in our SWOT, scanned in consent forms, tidied up our Pinterest and checked our research.


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13.10: CRITICAL PATH

CRITICAL PLAN

WORK TO BE CARRIED OUT Competitor Research Questionnaire (consumer + store) General Primary research in London Mintel/Style forum/WGSN research London visit Go over primary and secondary research Formulate a structure for report Gather all research and make themes Fialise pitch idea Make presentation Interim presentation Chapter headings Research into the sportswear market Gather info on case studies London visit Write introduction, aims and objectives Write consumer, market, competitors and trends Write case studies Decide on print shop Create layout for report Proof print/read- make amendments Print document Jade hand in Hand in

DATE 19th Nov

26th Nov 3rd Dec

10th Dec- 6th Jan

7th Jan 14th Jan 21st Jan 28th Jan 4th Feb


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13.11: TEAM BLOG

{

http://www.universal-fcp.tumblr.com/

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}

13.12: PINTEREST (collection of image research)



Universal Works