HARVEST Blue Mountains + Beyond

FIRED UP Meet the talented folk fuelling our regional food & wine industry

Travel with us on a journey along the food and wine trails that criss-cross the Blue Mountains – from the banks of the mighty HawkesburyNepean river to the highlands and plains of the Central West – and discover a region of unmatched natural beauty and bounty on the outskirts of Australia’s largest city.

EDITORIAL Editor Lisa Doust Features Editor Jacqueline Forster Art Director Lisa Reidy Advertising Sales Ruby Wolffs Zoe Wood Cover image of Joe Campbell, owner/chef at Fumo in Blackheath, by Asia Upward.

HARVEST Blue Mountains + Beyond is printed in Australia on an environmentally responsible paper manufactured under the environmental system ISO 14001, using Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp sourced from sustainable forests.

ENQUIRIES lisa@justpressed.com.au

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MAKERS OF AWARD WINNING

This first edition of HARVEST introduces you to some of the passionate people behind our finest regional restaurants, along with cool-climate wine and cider makers, providores, a local coffee producer and a well-known foodie and author.

We invite you to take your time exploring our beautiful corner of the world. You may never want to leave.

Illustration: Melanie Vugich.

We acknowledge the traditional custodians of the Blue Mountains, the Darug and Gundungurra peoples, where this magazine is created.

We pay our respects to their elders, past and present.

black magic in the Blue Mountains

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e: info@theliilecoeeco.com.au

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LEURA WHISK

THE PERSONAL TOUCH Our kitchens are where we provide sustenance for ourselves and our family, and perfect harvest produce deserves the benefit of quality kitchen tools and accessories. Leura Whisk has been part of the Blue Mountains community for 16 years, so call in and let the experienced team show you the best in sustainable and innovative kitchen products for a healthier future.

LEURA WHISK I SHOP 1/166 THE MALL I LEURA NSW 2780 02 4784 3412 I info@leurawhisk.com.au

leurawhisk.com.au

DINING EAT

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PLAYING WITH FIRE WHERE THERE’S SMOKE THERE’S CULINARY FIRE AT THIS LANDMARK BLACKHEATH EATERY. Words: Jacqueline Forster. Photos: Asia Upward.

Joe Campbell has come full circle. Since serving his apprenticeship and a 10-year stint as second in charge at Philip Searle’s legendary restaurant Vulcan’s, the chef is home to roost in familiar Blackheath surroundings.

“I always wanted to own this space,” says Joe, who bided his time at his popular Leura café Red Door before seizing the opportunity to purchase the property when it came on the market in 2017.

Renamed Fumo, Italian for ‘smoke’, and reinvigorated with a lick of paint, Joe’s intimate knowledge of the workings of the kitchen and its century-old wood-fired oven, coupled with a fresh approach to Asian-influenced comfort food, has breathed new life into the establishment.

Earthy and produce-driven, the small but perfectly formed menu at Fumo earned Joe a prestigious Australian Good Food Guide Chef Hat in 2018, cementing a return to the upper echelons of regional dining for the venue.

Drawing inspiration from his travels – a love of snowboarding has taken Campbell from Japan to Kashmir and everywhere in between – and time spent at Martin Boetz’s seminal Thai-fusion restaurant Longrain,

Joe’s signature dish of Sake Steamed Mussels with Kimchi Butter is a Fumo staple.

“Sake Steamed Mussels was the first dish I made at Fumo and it has never left the menu,” he explains. “It was one of those dishes where the idea in my head turned out to be perfect when it was made. I didn’t have to adjust or finetune anything, it was just one of those amazing moments.”

Subtle but punchy flavours abound, the combination of shiso, kombu, ponzu and house-made kimchi butter making a sauce perfect for mopping up with crusty, freshly baked sourdough bread.

Everything is made from scratch here, including the hand-churned butter and fermented foods. “I found that a small chamber of the oven, which is actually a viewing hole, is the perfect temperature to ferment things,” says Joe. “We make our own yoghurt and sour cream, and all the spice blends are roasted in the oven before being ground for pastes.”

And nothing goes to waste. The buttermilk left over from the butter-making process goes into another sauce for Fumo’s main fish dish. | 55

ASIAN ACCENTS While Japanese influences are easy to see, both in the décor and on the menu, other Asian flavours meld ingredients in Campbell’s intricate style. The Sri Lankaninspired dosa is a crispy fermented rice pancake stuffed with cashew nut curry and served with three sambals and crisp curry leaves.

Vegan and gluten-free, this dish doesn’t skimp on flavour.

“In the old days you didn’t have to cater for dietary needs but now it’s important to,” Joe says. “This just happens to be the perfect package for vegans and people with coeliac disease, and it’s probably one of the harder dishes to make and the most flavour-intensive as well.

“I like to think it rocks their world because they’re being shown some love and are not just an afterthought on the menu.”

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To make the traditional Sri Lankan dosa batter, Joe ferments a mix of rice and black urad dhal overnight.

The delicate and light dosa is cooked pancake style, filled with cashew nut curry and finished with a trio of sambals – seeni (onion), pol (coconut) and a Searle/Campbell creation of peanut sesame sambal, which is cooked for 12 hours in the wood-fired oven.

“This dish has evolved since I first started making it,” says Joe. “I thought, ‘Anyone can make rice’, so I pushed it a bit further by making the crispy pancake with everything hidden inside so it’s a revelation in more ways than one.”

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“At Fumo it’s all about the oven: the smokiness, the slow cooking and the depth of flavour it produces.”

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Fumo’s dessert menu sees a continuation of a Vulcan’s tradition – the Bombe Icecream Slice. Changing weekly, depending on which produce Joe can get his hands on, the bombe is a firm favourite with long-time fans. This one (pictured on page 21) features a combination of Sake Lees ice-cream, spiced ginger & coconut ice-cream, orange ice-cream, smoked blackberry sorbet, raspberry sorbet and walnut macaroon.

“The bombe pays homage to my mentor Philip for his foresight and talent,” says Joe. “I change the flavour combinations because I love working with suppliers and using what’s in season or abundant – it gets your creativity going.”

Joe sources locally grown organic produce from Epicurean Harvest in the Kanimbla Valley, and makes the most of foraged seasonal ingredients such as saffron milk cap and slippery jack mushrooms in autumn, supplementing local produce with excursions to Asian markets in Bankstown.

Fumo’s international wine list also places an emphasis on local, with regional varieties from Orange, Bathurst and the Megalong Valley featuring. There’s even a hyper-local inclusion that hails from just down the road, where artisan vintner Bob Colman stomps grapes in his Blackheath shed.

“I like supporting local winemakers, but I wouldn’t have it on the menu if it wasn’t good,” says Joe of the local drop.

The small, close-knit team at Fumo includes chef Tony Hogan, who worked alongside Joe at Red Door for seven years, and Amanda Baldoni, who presides over front of house and is another trusted colleague from Vulcan’s days.

“I wouldn’t have opened Fumo without Amanda,” says Joe. “I spoke to her before I was going to buy it and asked if she was in, because if she wasn’t in, I wasn’t going to do it.”

Luckily for mountains diners Amanda said yes.

The cosy 35-seat restaurant is open Friday to Sunday for lunch and dinner, with two dinner seatings – at 6pm and 8pm. Diners can expect attentive, informed service, a warm glow from Fumo’s ambience and the generous servings of Joe’s creative cuisine.

“There are no rules, I love to combine flavours and ingredients and I love this kitchen,” Joe adds. “At Fumo it’s all about the oven: the smokiness, the slow cooking and the depth of flavour it produces.”

fumo.com.au

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EAT

HOME GROWN AT CHARRED KITCHEN & BAR, LOCAL SUPPLIERS, A SKILFUL TEAM AND THE DISTINCT SEASONS OF THE CENTRAL WEST KEEP LIAM O’BRIEN’S PASSION FOR INNOVATIVE CUISINE FUELLED. Words: Lisa Doust. Photos: Emma Lois.

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Freshly picked carrots had a role to play in luring chef Liam O’Brien and his wife Samihla back from the Thai city of Chiang Mai to the Central West of New South Wales.

“Three years ago, we were in Orange on a family holiday and one afternoon my Dad picked some Dutch carrots from a friend’s garden and threw them on the fire,” Liam recalls. “Samihla was pregnant back then and as we sat in the garden with our family eating seasonal produce straight from the fire, something clicked and we both decided it was time for us to make the move back to Australia.”

Although the pair arrived at their decision quickly, the seed for change had initially been planted when Liam found himself having to use carrots imported from China while cooking in Thailand. “It’s just wasn’t natural to be importing produce, plus I was really missing having four seasons,” adds Liam, who was born in Orange but grew up in Bathurst and developed an interest in fresh produce by watching his agronomist father, Peter, teaching people to grow potatoes.

Despite the move, Liam’s connection to Thailand will always be strong. As well as Samihla being Thai, Liam first lived in Chiang Mai at the age of 14. His family had moved there so his father could share his agronomy skills.

“I literally got a taste for Thailand’s sweet, salty and sour food flavours, and knew pretty quickly that I wanted to cook,” explains Liam, who undertook his apprenticeship back in Australia with French chef Philippe Legall, who has since converted his former restaurant on Bathurst’s Keppel Street into the renowned Legall Patisserie Café.

After completing his apprenticeship, Liam worked with several outstanding Australian chefs, including David Thompson, globally lauded for his Thai cuisine expertise, and Brent Savage of Bentley Restaurant + Bar, who is widely admired for his experimental approach to food.

“David taught me a lot about balancing flavours, and Brent really encouraged me to think completely outside the box,” says Liam. “I have learned so much from everyone I’ve worked with.” | 61

TEAM WORK Having opened the doors to Charred Kitchen & Bar in Orange two-and-a-half years ago, Liam is now able to bring all the elements gathered from his training and global travels under one roof.

“At Charred the menu is constantly changing and is dependent on what’s growing directly around me,” he says.

“This week it’s mostly French or English with twists, but next week I could be inspired by Moroccan or Thai flavours.

I never fuse cuisines but what ties everything together is the charring, smoking and grilling.”

Bijay Kunwar is in charge of controlling ‘Lucifer’, a wood and charcoal fire oven that measures two-by-one metres and serves as the heart of the restaurant. As well as inspiring the restaurant’s moniker, this multi-purpose fire box allows meat, fish and fresh produce to be smoked, charred and dry grilled to perfection.

“Kunwar brings amazing skills from his homeland of Nepal, which are needed when you’re dealing with something as temperamental as Lucifer,” says Liam. “We put anything and everything in the fire box – we bake eggs, smoke chilli, fire-roast seafood stews and char everything from sirloin and lamb rump to corn, eggplant, mushrooms and flatbread.”

Charred’s inventive desserts are courtesy of Korean-born pastry chef Hyeonju (Ju) Jeon, who spent 10 years working in Brisbane before seeking out a more relaxed lifestyle in Orange. “Ironically, Ju is probably busier than she’s ever been,” says Liam. “She is extremely talented and creative and has free run when it comes to the dessert menu.

We always talk concepts but the rest up to her.”

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Liam is now able to bring all the elements gathered from his training and global travels under one roof.

The beverage menu is in equally capable hands, with Sommelier & Restaurant Manager David Collins showcasing the artistry of local producers while also sourcing fine wines, beers and spirits from around the country.

“Thanks to David being passionate about both wine and beer, we won the Gourmet Traveller WINE ‘Best Beer List’ in the country during our first year and were the runnersup in 2018,” says Liam.

THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS Dining at Charred sends your tastebuds on a regional tour – meat and produce is sourced from as nearby as possible and Liam delights in working closely with his suppliers.

“Greg Kocanda at Block 11 Organics is a third-generation farmer and an amazingly knowledgeable seasonal grower,” says Liam. “He grows a lot of certified organic produce for the Sydney market but I am lucky enough to get first pick.”

Other local and regional food heroes Liam relies on include Aunty Rinn’s Free Range Eggs, Millthorpe Saffron, Farmer Doug’s Gourmet Potatoes, Fourjay Farms, Thornbrook Orchard, Morganics Farm, Robanco Wholesale Meats and The Second Mouse Cheese Company.

“It’s very inspiring to be so close to all of our suppliers and to our local winemakers,” says Liam. “Having those supportive relationships makes all the difference when you’re running a restaurant in a regional centre – it’s hard to beat the generosity and warm-heartedness that you get in the Central West!”

charred.com.au

INGREDIENTS 2 cups chick peas, soaked overnight 150ml quality olive oil 100ml grapeseed oil 6-8 cloves organic garlic Ground cumin, to taste Lemon juice and zest, to taste 100g of sucuk 3-4 guindillas

Charred’s Hummus with Sucuk & Guandillias When making hummus, Liam uses the finest-quality chickpeas and olive available. He recommends using either organic or good-quality garlic and says to avoid pre-peeled garlic. Sucuk (Turkish sausage) and guindillas (pickled long green chillies) are placed on top for extra flavour and texture.

METHOD 1. Discard the water the chick peas have been soaking in then place in a pot and cover with fresh water until covered by an inch or so. Bring to the boil then simmer for an hour, or until chick peas are completely tender.

2. Strain chick peas into a blender and keep the water they were cooked in. Pour some of the liquid into the blender until chick peas are half covered.

3. Blend until quite fine then add the garlic, cumin, lemon juice and zest. While the blender is still going, slowly pour in the olive oil and grapeseed oil – just like making a mayonnaise, this is the process of getting it smooth.

4. Check seasoning then place broken and cooked sucuk and guandillas on top. Serve with flatbread. | 63

PROVEDORE

HEART & SOUL SISTERS JACINTA AND ADELINA CARMICHAEL-PARISSI FOLLOWED THEIR DREAMS TO CREATE A HOMESTEADING HUB IN A LAWSON LANDMARK. HERE JACINTA TAKES US BEHIND THE SCENES OF THEIR HEARTFELT PROJECT. Interview: Jacqueline Forster.

Photos by Nick McKinlay, Cameron Bryce and Luisa Brimble.

What was the original concept behind Lyttleton Stores Co-operative?

Adelina and I opened Lyttleton Stores in December 2015 with the support and help of our family, friends and the local community. The concept had been a long-time dream of mine. As a teenager growing up in the Blue Mountains, I realised it was not only important to follow one’s passions and interests but to contribute to the community and have a positive impact on the environment in which we all live.

The idea was to have a multifaceted business that could be an evolving example of sustainable living that included the arts and a learning space alongside healthy organic produce and a garden.

Working within a non-hierarchical management structure that operated upon principles of equality, sharing both responsibility and opportunity for everyone involved, our plan was to become a co-operative as soon as the business was able to support itself [Lyttleton Stores officially became a co-operative in early 2019 with help from crowdfunding].

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What were you and Adelina doing before opening the store?

I spent 12 years trying to build this project by travelling, learning and living the life of community sufficiency in rural Tasmania, growing food and cooking with homesteading skills such as preserving, baking and making everything from scratch. I kept trying to find a home for the project, but it wasn’t until I moved back to the Blue Mountains that the business found a shopfront – in Lawson’s original store on Badgerys Crescent. Adelina had recently finished her studies in art and design at Sydney College of the Arts and moved back to the Blue Mountains to continue her jewellery design practice. During her uni years, she worked at an organic growers’ market, learning about and making connections with local growers. The skills, knowledge and connections we had made independently came together when we reunited in the Blue Mountains, which was an unplanned synchronicity.

history of Lawson and preserve its character. When I found out it was for sale, I could see clearly that it was finally time to bring this project to life. Our family purchased the building in August 2015 and renovated it in keeping with the heritage of the place. After four months we were ready to open the doors.

How important are the gardens?

The former owner was a gardener who fed her family from the backyard. When she became ill the garden continued to thrive on its own, with many perennial herbs, flowers, fruits, nuts and vegetables creating an edible jungle.

What is special about the Lyttleton Stores building?

With the help of family and friends, my Papa and I fenced off and re-established the vegie garden, keeping all the existing plants but taming them to fit in even more heritage varieties of annuals. There was continuity with the history of the building, having previously been a produce and general store in both the 1890s and 1940s.

The building, originally constructed in 1884, was an old antique shop owned by family friends who wanted to pass on the space to people who would continue the living

To cope with demand for fresh produce in the store and supplement what we couldn’t grow ourselves, we devised a Backyard Gardeners Registry. People who follow organic | 65

growing practices can bring in their surplus produce to swap for store credit that can be spent on things they can’t grow, like chocolate or toilet paper.

The idea was to connect backyard growers throughout the mountains and create food security in our area. We’ve now gone one step further with the Farm it Forward project, which matches landholders with young farmers to grow even more food.

How has Lyttleton Stores Co-operative become a community hub and what do you and your members gain from this experience?

Sugo Di Pomodoro Makes approx. 6 jars

We continuously providing a space for people to connect in authentic and traditional ways. Since opening Lyttleton Stores the team has grown into a collective of exceptional people who have contributed their skills and knowledge while continuing to learn and share together.

INGREDIENTS 2kg tomatoes, chopped 100ml olive oil 2tsp sea salt 1tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 bulb garlic 1 medium onion Home-dried herbs of oregano, rosemary, sage and parsley

The community of workers, makers, growers, teachers, customers and supporters grew to the extent that the business became ready to expand beyond a family business into the wider ‘family’ of the Blue Mountains as a community owned and operated co-operative.

METHOD 1. Warm the oil in a heavy based saucepan. Slice onions into half circles and put into medium-heated oil so you can hear it gently sizzling. Dice or mash the garlic with a sprinkle of salt to help absorb the oils and put into the pot once the onions are translucent. Add salt, pepper and herbs when the onions and garlic have just started to become golden brown, stirring regularly.

Our members are invited to be involved through meetings and informational sessions, becoming volunteers, backyard growers, makers, teachers and committee members, as well as having one vote per membership and 10% off all purchases from produce to workshops.

We currently have a team of five co-ordinators from various backgrounds and skill sets and we offer regular courses in all things gardening, cooking, art, craft, health and wellbeing.

What do you think is great about Lawson?

There has always been a strong community in this town and being able to become caretakers of the original shop and continue Lawson’s story through living conservation has been rewarding. Watching and supporting other businesses breathe life and energy back into the town has also been inspiring. That sense of belonging to a place and people never leaves you if you are lucky enough to have it where you started.

lyttletonstores.com.au 66 |

2. Have tomatoes chopped and ready to add to the pot by the time the herbs are all mixed in, so the oil is a little dry from being soaked up into the onion, garlic, herbs and spice. Put chopped tomatoes into the pot so they sizzle and release their juices, making sure the pot isn’t so hot that the tomatoes burn or stick – lower the flame if you are concerned about the heat.

3. Once all the tomatoes are in and have released their juices by heat and stirring, turn flame to a simmer and leave for up to 8 hours. Stir occasionally and adjust the heat throughout the day to make sure the sauce isn’t sticking to the bottom of the pot. Add salt to taste throughout, a little at a time, aiming for a sweet and deeply rich flavour rather than fresh and acidic. To achieve this, keep cooking and adding salt and even a little water if you want to give it longer on the flame.

4. The oils floating on top should be a vibrant red. Take a little out every now and then to taste by dipping in a crust of bread, making sure you get a little sauce and lots of red oil.

To ‘hot fill’ jars 1. Sterilise each jar, one at a time, in a boiling pot of water, making sure the lid isn’t in long enough to damage the rubber seal (We like to have two jars and one lid being sterilised at a time).

2. Wearing washed or new rubber gloves (so you can use your hands without scalding them) take a jar out of boiling water and place onto a wooden surface or a tea towel so the cold of the surface doesn’t shock the hot jar and make it crack.

3. Using sterilised equipment, ladle simmering contents into a glass measuring jug and pour into the jar, taking the lid out last and making sure it threads well and tight.

Pear Syrup Makes approx. 10 jars INGREDIENTS 5kg pears 4kg sugar 50g cinnamon 5 lemons METHOD 1. Peel and dice pears. Juice lemons. Put all ingredients together and let sit until the juices come out of the pears. Bring to the boil and turn back down to a simmer until the pears are cooked.

2. Use a slotted spoon to remove the pears from the syrup and put aside for a cake. Continue to simmer the syrup until thick on a cold plate test.

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SUSTAINABILITY

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SUSTAINABILITY

ECO LOGIC

COMMITTED TO TAKING IT EASY ON THE PLANET, ONE BLUE MOUNTAINS RESTAURANT IS LEADING THE WAY WITH ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES THAT TAKE A JOURNEY FROM PADDOCK TO PLATE AND BACK AGAIN. Words: Lisa Doust. Photos: Leura Garage.

Since the day Leura Garage opened its doors back in 2011, James Howarth has been seeking out ways to ensure his buzzy restaurant is run as sustainably as possible. “We have always waged war against waste and constantly strive to find systems, processes and equipment to reduce our carbon footprint and ensure we are as environmentally friendly as possible,” he explains.

Located in the heart of Leura village, in the Upper Blue Mountains, Leura Garage has multiple eco-friendly initiatives firmly in place. For starters, chefs adhere to a philosophy that focuses on locally grown produce and is consistent with the restaurant’s ‘fun dining concept’.

Wherever possible, locally grown, seasonal produce is delivered by nearby growers and the winemakers drop off their small-batch vintages wearing the Akubras that shaded the sun that touched their vines just hours before.

In addition, the roof is covered in solar panels and also harvests rainwater, which is fed through copper piping under the floor and, in turn, heats up the concrete slab and helps to warm the restaurant. The rainwater is then triple filtered and served to customers.

Taking their strong eco stance to the next level, Leura Garage has now invested in ‘CLOey’ – a super composter capable of composting all of the restaurant’s organic waste.

“With CLOey we are making dining more sustainable and have moved one step closer to ‘closing the loop’,” says James (pictured left with Federal Member for Macquarie, Susan Templeman, and Luca Postiglione, of Lupo Marketing).

Developed and made in Australia by Closed Loop Recycling, a leader in sustainability and landfill diversion,

CLOey uses microbial technology to reduce 20 kilograms of food waste by up 90% in 24 hours, creating a nutrientrich end product that can be reused in garden plots and paddocks. At present, only a handful of innovative restaurants across the globe are utilising this innovative technology, including Danish culinary mecca Noma.

There are also financial benefits, with CLOey decreasing disposal costs. Overall, Leura Garage’s sustainable business practices saving the restaurant up to $13,500 in utilities each year. “We save thousands a year on power by using solar on the roof, which feeds back to the grid, and our underfloor pipes help us to save on heating costs.

And now CLOey is allowing us to cut our waste-disposal costs,” explains James.

“For most family owned restaurants and businesses, waste management is often someone else’s problem, but we are very focused on sustainability, regionality and community,” says James. “With CLOey taking the driver’s seat on organic-waste management, we hope to set the standard for both Leura village and the whole Blue Mountains region.”

James and the team at Leura Garage are hoping to help inspire other local businesses around sustainability.

“We invite anybody who is interested in what we have done at the restaurant to ask us questions,” he adds.

“We want to spread the word and help to educate local industry, communities, schools and councils on how we can implement modes of sustainability across the greater Blue Mountains region by working together and using eco innovations such as CLOey.” leuragarage.com.au | 69

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PRODUCER

SHE’LL BE APPLES YOUNG FARMERS SAM EDWARDS AND ASIA UPWARD HAVE REVITALISED A CENTURY-OLD BLACKHEATH APPLE ORCHARD. ASIA TOOK TIME OUT FROM FARM CHORES TO TELL US ABOUT THEIR JOURNEY. Interview: Jacqueline Forster. Photos: Willow & Co.

How did you come to be growing apples on the Shipley Plateau in Blackheath?

Sam came to Blackheath to climb around eight years ago as that was his passion back then. He used to drive past Logan Brae Orchard on the way to a friend’s place and loved the look of it because it reminded him of Tasmania, where he grew up. When he found out Graeme (the owner) was thinking of selling, he knocked on the door and introduced himself. They hit it off straight away and Graeme still lives next door. They are constantly sharing stories and keeping each other up to date with what is going on around the orchard. It really feels like we are an extended family.

What is the history of the farm?

Logan Brae has been around since 1919. The Jackson family started it back then and besides growing apples they had a wood mill on site. Life on the orchard in the early 1900s was hard – land had to be cleared by hand and everything was burned as they went. They started out as a Loganberry farm (hence the name) but a failed attempt at canning the berries ended that venture, so they turned the berry farm into an apple orchard.

Our cottage used to be a guest house and tea rooms that served hot scones, clotted cream and loganberry jam. It had six bedrooms for guests to stay in and a jersey cow that was milked twice a day to make the cream.

The whole of the Shipley Plateau was planted with orchards back then but, unfortunately, they suffered from fires and hail and after a time ended up shutting down. Some of our older customers remember living off the apples from Logan Brae during the Great Depression. They recall walking for kilometres out to the orchard every couple of days just for the apples. Those customers now bring their grandchildren into the store to buy apples from us.

What changes have you made to Logan Brae?

When Sam took over the orchard, he changed a lot of the growing techniques and modernised it. The blocks we pick from now have been planted in rows and grow like Christmas trees on wires. This allows for easy picking and increased light on to the fruit, which creates better fruit quality with less problems from disease. We now net our trees to protect them from hail and birds, although we are seeing an increase in birds working out how to get under the nets! It seems nothing is foolproof and it’s all a constant learning curve with apples. | 71

When did you and baby Grace join the family?

Tell us about the apple shed.

I had been living in the mountains for about a year working as a commercial photographer when I was booked to shoot the Blackheath School Cookbook, Nourish.

I travelled with Jody Lee, who was organising local producers for the shoots, to pick up some produce for the front cover because I was keen to hand-pick some apples with leaves on them.

Our little shed is the property’s original apple shed. This is where the apples have always been sold. It’s not perfect but we love its character and wouldn’t want to change it. During the season, usually from February to July, we open to the public on weekends to sell apples by the kilo, bottled apple juice which we cold-press on site, hot homemade apple pies, warm spiced apple juice, apple jelly, apple butter, seasonal jams, toffee apples and free rangeeggs. There are families who have been coming to Logan Brae for generations and it’s so lovely to catch up with them season after season.

Logan Brae was our first stop, and let’s just say I was pleasantly surprised to find Sam here. There was an instant spark between us, and Jody still jokes that it was like she wasn’t even in the room. Sam walked us around the orchard and handed me a mountain of apples. He even picked me some with the leaves on, which I am not allowed to do now. I was blown away by his work ethic and the fact he was there doing it all on his own. I had never met anyone with such drive and passion. I fell for him then and there. We became inseparable and it wasn’t long before Grace was born. Now all three of us are here and it’s once again a family-run business.

What are your future plans for Logan Brae?

The future is bright, beautiful and diverse. With last year’s drought and small apple-growing season, we realised it’s really important to diversify the business so our family has some financial security. I think all farmers are realising that you need to have a few things on the go rather than just relying on one crop to keep farms alive.

We hold a small number of weddings each year on our lookout and I think we’ll be constantly tweaking the business to make sure it is viable well into the future.

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The worst thing for us is the thought of having to close the last remaining apple orchard on the plateau and the rich history that would disappear with it.

I have also published two children’s books, both set on the farm and part of the Loveable Lottie series. With the farm’s centenary we have two big reasons to celebrate this year and we’re planning on combining them into one big, fun, family-friendly event.

What is special about Shipley Plateau?

Our community up here is just gold. Everyone is really supportive of Logan Brae and what we are doing. The mountains is such an incredible place and, being so close to Sydney, it’s the perfect weekend getaway for people who want to escape the craziness of the city. Not only do we have beautiful views and hikes but there are such great restaurants and cafés plus fantastic wineries close by in the Megalong Valley. It’s a great place to live.

loganbrae.com.au

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Spitzenburg Apple & Rosemary Tarte Tatin INGREDIENTS ¾ cup caster sugar ¼ cup water 25g unsalted butter 7 Spitzenburg apples (you can also use Pink Lady apples), the more you can fit in the pan, the better 2 sheets of puff pastry 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, roughly chopped Fresh cream, to serve

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METHOD 1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Press the two pastry sheets together to make one thicker sheet. Slice the apples into slices, removing the core but leaving the skin.

2. Using a non-stick frying pan with a metal handle, melt the sugar and water together. It’s important to stir the sugar occasionally to dissolve it but stop stirring once dissolved.

Once the sugar is going a light golden colour, add the butter and stir through until melted.

3. Remove sugar and butter mix from heat and start to arrange the apple slices around the pan in circles. Recook for a few minutes then sprinkle on the rosemary.

4. Trim the pastry to fit the pan and carefully lay it over the apples. Make three small cuts in the centre of the pastry then pop back in the oven until the pastry turns a goldenbrown colour.

5. Remove from oven and let cool for a few minutes. Loosen the sides of the pastry with a knife then place a large, flat plate over the pan and carefully flip it all upside down so the tart comes out on the plate. Serve with fresh cream.

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PRODUCER

RAW TALENT THINK CHEESEMAKING AND THE CENTRAL WEST OF NEW SOUTH WALES DOESN’T AUTOMATICALLY SPRING TO MIND, BUT THAT’S EXACTLY WHERE JANNEI GOAT DAIRY PRODUCES ITS AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN CHEESES. Words: Ellen Hill. Photos: David Hill.

The thing about goats is they are what they eat. And the thing about goat cheese is that the flavour comes down to cleanliness. “It all starts and ends with hygiene – it’s pretty well that basic,” confirms goat-cheese fromagerie, Neil Watson.

Since 1995, Neil and his wife Janette have operated Jannei Goat Dairy on a 40-acre property at Lidsdale, west of Lithgow, starting out by selling raw milk to the Sydney market.

A former agriculture teacher, Neil was raised on a dairy farm in Wauchope, in the Mid North Coast region of New South Wales. He then earned a degree in Rural Science before teaching himself cheesemaking. Janette, a graphic designer who studied fine art, developed the Jannei brand and look and has been helping Neil to manage the dairy and refine the brand’s products ever since.

The dairy is renowned for its rich, crisp flavours, influenced by the golden fields, indigo skies and fragrance of eucalypt trees populating the surrounding area.

Although Neil offhandedly dismisses cheesemaking as technically simple, the awards Jannei has stacked up prove there’s a tad more to becoming a bona fide artisan. This brings us back to hygiene.

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Jannei’s 200-strong herd of Swiss purebred Saanen goats, described by Neil as “Quite finicky and susceptible to parasites and disease”, are the first-line sanitary test for Jannei. These inquisitive yet docile creatures respond well to Neil and Janette’s sustainable and chemical and hormone-free farming practices, producing an average two litres of milk each day.

Janette says Jannei’s unpasteurised (or raw) milk is also influenced by what the goats are fed – natural concentrates, locally-sourced lucerne hay, oats/barley, copra meal and pollard, with other oil grains added in during the winter months.

“We work with the farm and within its limits – we don’t push it,” Janette adds. “But we also have persistence and are open to change and trying new things.”

Naturally homogenised with smaller fat globules than cow milk, thus easier for humans to digest, goat milk is collected and cooled twice daily on the farm. Raw milk for distribution is quickly bottled, with no chemicals or preservatives added.

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CREATING CURDS & WHEY Cheese is made when a vegetable-based rennet (a set of enzymes produced in the stomachs of ruminant mammals such as goats) is added to milk for cheesemaking. Rennet’s job is to curdle the milk and separate it into solid curds.

The curds are then pressed and washed – very gently.

They are not shaken, beaten or whipped but stirred.

They might then be reheated, pressed and washed further to produce firmer cheese, with natural cultures introduced to develop stronger flavours.

Soft cheeses are kept moist to allow living enzymes to grow and develop flavours, while harder cheeses such as cheddar are kept dry. The liquid (whey) left after the milk has been coagulated for cheese or yogurt is drained and strained further through cloth, to draw out different properties.

Jannei Goat Dairy produces 11 cheese varieties, including a soft-spreading fresh curd, natural yoghurt and ricotta, an aged cheddar, a firm to crumbly aged cheese and a mellow, camembert-style cheese known as Prairie Cream.

Named after Bent Backs, a book by late Lidsdale local Jim Brown about the coal miners of Lithgow, Jannei’s signature cheese is its Bent Back Chèvre. This ode to the Central West is a white-mould cheese with characteristic blue undertones and can be eaten fresh or aged until gooey with a robust flavour. The first award Bent Back Chévre received was back in 2004, when it was named Sydney Australian Specialty Cheese Association Awards champion and soon became a 17-time gold award-winner in its range.

Since 1998, Jannei has won more than 30 gold and numerous silver specialist-cheese awards and has been Sydney Royal Easter Show’s most successful exhibitor in the goat-milk class three times.

Jannei’s hygiene standards are so high, it’s the only dairy in New South Wales – and one of only six in Australia – listed by the Australian Raw Milk Movement as holding a license to sell raw goat milk. “There is lots of testing and many hoops to jump through,” says Neil with regards to going through the licensing process. The results are clearly worth the effort. While some goat cheese can have pungent flavours and aromas, Jannei is renowned for its mild-tasting fresh and semi-hard products.

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Personally, Neil prefers the sweet and creamy subtlety of fresh milk to the barnyard funk of older milk and products made from milk during breeding season, when strongsmelling hormones affect the flavour of the females’ milk.

“Goat milk spoils really quickly if your utensils and milking machines aren’t kept clean, and it takes on a ‘goaty’ flavour,’” he explains, again bringing Jannei’s ongoing success back to good practices.

It is Neil and Janette’s attention to hygiene and detail that keeps customers coming back. Their cheese is used in several Sydney restaurants and is sold at a number of select retail outlets in Sydney and the Blue Mountains.

Cheese lovers can also visit the Jannei farm gate shop throughout the year, and pre-booked guided tours are available for groups.

Jannei Goat Cheese Frittata Serves 2 Healthy and versatile, goat milk cheese is delicious in salads, tarts, sandwiches and wraps. It’s also ideal on baked vegetables, pizza, savoury crackers and sourdough bread with relish and pickled vegetable. Jannei Goat Dairy’s Lidsdale and Bent Back connoisseur cheeses hold their own with red wine and spicy relish, while the fresh Prairie Cream white-mould cheese and Miette pressed curd are perfectly paired with white wine and Merlot.

INGREDIENTS 6 eggs ½ cup milk Salt and cayenne pepper, to season 1 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, chopped Handful of mushrooms, sliced 100-150g Jannei Goat Dairy Fresh Goat Curd or Bûche Blanc Jannei Goat Dairy Lidsdale cheese 2 large kale leaves, finely shredded, plus extra to serve METHOD 1. Lightly whisk eggs. Add milk and seasoning then whisk together.

2. Heat olive oil in fry pan. Fry onion and mushrooms for 2 minutes.

3. Pour in egg mixture and turn heat down. Add dobs of fresh curd or Bûche Blanc. Cover and cook for 10-15 minutes.

4. Sprinkle shredded kale over the frittata and top with grated Lidsdale cheese. Cover for 2 minutes.

5. Turn frittata into the kale. Allow some steam to escape for 1 minute, then replace lid and turn heat off.

6. Allow frittata to sit in pan while plates are gathered. Serve with extra kale.

These inquisitive yet docile creatures respond well to Neil and Janette’s sustainable farming practices.

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STAY

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ROMANTIC IDYLL

SOAK AWAY THE STRESSES OF CITY LIFE IN THE MOST DREAMILY LOCATED BATH IN THE MOUNTAINS. Words: Jacqueline Forster. Photos: Kookawood.

Horticulturist Fiona Bruyn and husband Michael Schenko, a landscaper and photographer, always wanted to own a historic home but when they couldn’t find one in their preferred location, the village of Rydal, they decided to build their own ‘old’ house.

While insulation doesn’t generally illicit wow factor, there’s plenty of wow both inside and outside this idyllic getaway.

The cosy interiors are filled with unique items collected over a long period of time, and Fiona’s own artwork features throughout. Then there’s the outdoor bathtub.

Using recycled materials from pubs, other houses and even a bridge, the couple designed and lovingly built their dream home, which they now share with guests as a holiday let.

“We purchased the land in 2000 and built the house over an eight-year period,” Fiona explains. Sourcing materials such as reclaimed ironbark beams from a variety of locations, their hands-on approach proved timeconsuming but rewarding for the couple, who were able to achieve the homely and eclectic look they sought.

“When we installed the bathtub outside, my mother thought I was crazy,” says Fiona. “But it’s just beautiful lying there surrounded by bubbles and flowers, overlooking the most magnificent view of the Blue Mountains.

Almost every guest uses it, even if it’s just for a great photo opportunity.”

“We built all the stone walls by hand,” says Fiona. “I laid the stone while Michael mixed the mortar; a painstaking task but so worth it.” All the granite used in the house was collected from the property and local stone was also utilised in the garden, where Fiona put her horticultural skills to good use.

The upside to a new build was the opportunity to install a few modern luxuries. Large, open-plan living, dining and kitchen areas and big bedrooms make for comfortable entertaining and relaxing. Underfloor heating in the bathroom and mud room, reverse cycle air-conditioning and well-insulated walls help to keep the house cool in summer and warm in winter.

NATURE’S GIFTS The Instagram-worthy tub is just one of the many drawcards at Kookawood. Abundant wildlife, amazing views, the convivial fireplace and outdoor fire pit, plus the chance of snow in winter, draw visitors from far and wide.

“We get a lot of repeat visitors who bring overseas friends and family because we have so much wildlife here,” says Fiona. “Kangaroos graze on the front lawn and wombats are a common sight, along with our resident kookaburra family and a large variety of birds.” The property is popular with twitchers.

Originally city dwellers, Fiona and Michael know how hectic urban life can be. “Kookawood is a complete contrast and antidote to the stress of city living, and it’s an easy two-and-a-half-hour drive from Sydney.” | 81

Abundant wildlife, amazing views, the convivial fireplace and outdoor fire pit, plus the chance of snow in winter, draw visitors from far and wide.

Guests can choose to unwind in the peaceful surrounds or take advantage of the many great attractions nearby.

Jenolan Caves, Mayfield Gardens and Lake Lyell are all in the vicinity and the major Blue Mountains sights are just 35 minutes away.

Lithgow town is a 20-minute drive, which is handy if you need provisions, and there are lots of great country pubs, farmer markets, restaurants, vineyards and cafés in the mountains and surrounding area.

Children aren’t allowed at Kookawood due to the large amount of irreplaceable collectables and the proximity of the dam and pond to the house, but fur babies are welcome provided they are well behaved and won’t chase the wildlife. The rear garden is fenced, and the house has a doggie door.

It’s worth noting that the large property is extremely private. Guests can explore the valley and nearby pine forest via walking trails and say ‘Hi’ to the friendly inhabitants. “We have two miniature horses, a couple of cows and a large horse who is known to pop his head into open car windows if you stop to say hello,” says Fiona.

Her tip: “Bring carrots or he won’t let you pass!”

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DRINK

STEEPED IN HISTORY SET ALONG THE HISTORIC BELLS LINE OF ROAD, THE BILPIN CIDER CO. SITS IN THE HEART OF TRADITIONAL APPLE-GROWING COUNTRY AND HONOURS THE REGION’S FOUNDING FAMILY WITH A SPECIALTY BREW. COMPANY CREATOR SEAN PRENDERGAST TELLS US MORE. Interview: Lisa Doust. Photos: Bilpin Cider Co.

When was the Bilpin Cider Co. founded?

After spending 20 years working for some of the world’s most famous beer brands, including Foster’s, Corona, Stella Artois and Beck’s, the inspiration for founding the Bilpin Cider Co. came in early 2011. The growth of the cider category was in its embryonic stage, and while driving up Bells Line of Road one day I was greeted by the ‘Welcome to Bilpin – Land of the Mountain Apple’ poster.

It was this sign that spurred the creation of the company.

Why is Bilpin such a perfect place for producing cider?

Bilpin is a well-established boutique apple-growing region tucked away in the heart of the World Heritage Listed Blue Mountains. The region’s fertile soil, mountain elevation and cool climate present the perfect conditions for apple growing. Apples, of course, provide the juice that is fermented and turned into cider. The creation of a craft brand with the eponymous name from the region was clearly an exciting proposition.

How is the history of Bilpin woven into the Bilpin Cider Co. range?

As a recently created brand that has its roots in Bilpin’s history as an apple-growing region, we have embraced the anachronistic view of the village’s apple-growing traditions with a contemporary insight into the popularity of cider today. To this end we have created a variety called Bilpin Archibald, which acknowledges the founder of this area – Archibald Bell.

Tell us about Archibald Bell.

Archibald Bell was the son of Archibald Bell Senior, a revered figure in the government of the day who got caught up in the Rum Rebellion of 1808 – the only successful armed takeover of government in Australian history. The Bells owned extensive land in the Richmond area and, as a young man in 1823, Archibald, with the help of help of Indigenous trackers, founded what we know today as Bells Line of Road – an alternate route through the Blue Mountains to the Central Tablelands region.

Several local landmarks are named after him, including the village of Bell and Bell Mountain. The history of Bilpin is also inextricably linked to Archibald. Originally named Bell’s Pin – as in the ‘pinnacle of Bell’ – over time it was abbreviated to Bilpin.

What can visitors expect from a visit to the Bilpin Cider cellar door?

Following the formation of the Bilpin Cider Co., I purchased an old apple orchard on the corner of Bells Line of Road and Kurts Road. This had been one of the premium orchards in Bilpin during the 1960s and 1970s, but like many orchards in region it had been run down.

Since re-establishing the farm as an orchard, over 1200 young trees have been planted and the Bilpin Cider Co. is thriving as a new business with an old soul. Our visitors love to relax in the grounds and sample our ciders.

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DRINK

WELL GROUNDED

DEDICATED TO SEEKING OUT THE WORLD’S BEST-QUALITY BEANS, THE LITTLE COFFEE CO. IS EQUALLY COMMITTED TO REMAINING SMALL AND COMMUNITY MINDED. Words: Lisa Doust. Photos: Jennifer Leahy, Silversalt Photography.

As a boutique coffee producer, Darren Gersbach understands that the partnerships he develops with farmers directly impacts on the flavour of every product that falls under The Little Coffee Co. banner.

“I’ve been in the coffee industry for over 20 years,” says Darren, who has focused on the specialty sector.

“In that time, I’ve travelled to well over 100 plantations to meet the coffee farmers, work with the pickers and gain knowledge of the processing and fermentation stages.

It’s all about wanting to supply high-quality beans by connecting with the people that grow them.”

The beans selected by The Little Coffee Co. have been ethically sourced from traditional coffee-producing countries such as Ethiopia, Sumatra, Brazil, Panama and Papua New Guinea. The company’s specialty singleorigin coffees are complemented by a decadent new range of blends that have been available in local retail outlets since June of this year.

“The quality of the beans should be tasted in the cup,” says Darren. “We roast in small batches and have the patience required to develop blends that deliver flavour consistency and embody the regions in which the coffee beans are grown.”

From a philosophical point of view, Darren and his team find it important to connect with the local community and support local festivals. “We don’t want to be a giant coffee

company – we’re interested in keeping things small and working with quality partners, cafés and retailers.”

During each year you’ll find The Little Coffee Co.’s cart at two events – Winter Magic Festival, held in Katoomba in June; and the Mid Mountains Festival, which will take place in Lawson on 16 November.

“We are also an ongoing sponsor of the annual Blue Mountains Music Festival,” Darren adds. “Being in a beautiful environment and working within a supportive community makes you want to give back.”

thelittlecoffeeco.com.au

FOLLOW THE AROMA Coffee lovers seeking out ethically sourced blends can purchase The Little Coffee Co. beans at the following Blue Mountains outlets: • Blue Mountains Food Co-op, Hapenny Lane, Katoomba • Leura Gourmet, 159 Leura Mall, Leura • Lyttleton Stores Co-operative, 1/2 Badgery Crescent, Lawson • Pure Health Foods, 6/28-30 Station Street, Wentworth Falls • Scenic World, Cliff Drive, Katoomba • This Little Piggy, 238 Great Western Highway, Blackheath | 85

DRINK

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COOL CHANGE DEEP IN THE MEGALONG VALLEY, THREE BOUTIQUE WINERIES HAVE BEEN QUIETLY GETTING ON WITH THE JOB OF PRODUCING FINE COOL-CLIMATE VARIETALS THAT ARE COVETED BY WINE LOVERS ACROSS THE REGION. DEBRA WYLDE TAKES US ON A TOUR. Words & Photos: Debra Wylde.

With its serene rural landscapes, towering sandstone escarpments and native forests, the Megalong Valley is a place of extraordinary beauty. An Aboriginal word meaning ‘valley under the rock’, the Megalong is part of the Gundungurra First Nation territory and is rich in Aboriginal history and heritage.

Europeans first settled in the valley in 1838, grazing cattle, undertaking agricultural pursuits and later mining shale.

At its height, the Megalong township was home to 200 people – you can still see the town ruins if you walk along the Six Foot Track towards Katoomba.

In recent years, the Megalong Valley has emerged as the epicentre of an exciting new Blue Mountains industry – winemaking. The valley is now home to three outstanding cool-climate wineries – Darragh Wines, Dryridge Estate and Megalong Creek Estate. All three are renowned for their passionate and innovative approach to winemaking, resulting in excellent varietals that reflect the valley’s minerality, bracing climate and short growing season.

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DARRAGH WINES Inspired by traditional French winemaking techniques, Jon Darragh makes high-quality, small-batch artisan wines from his family property in the Megalong Valley. Jon’s approach is simple: he selects the best possible grapes from the regions he favours and applies great attention to detail to every stage of the process.

Producing both reds and whites, Jon uses French oak barrels to store his wines and a hand basket press for bottling. His expressive and complex wines reflect the fact that the grapes are tended by hand and nothing is rushed.

Jon has been passionate about wine and the processes behind it for as long as he can remember.

His career started in earnest 20 years ago, when he began working on vineyards in the Hunter, Orange and Mudgee wine regions. Winemaking was the direction he was heading in, and in 2002 he started a degree in oenology.

The scholarship that followed allowed Jon to travel overseas and broaden his knowledge of winemaking in the French tradition.

Deciding to bring his knowledge to the Blue Mountains, with a plan to create outstanding cool-climate varietals, Jon released his first Darragh Wines vintage in 2015 to local and regional acclaim. His small range of six wines – which includes a 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011 Shiraz and 2016 Pinot Noir – can be found in local bottle shops or purchased online. Treat yourself! darraghwines.com.au

DRYRIDGE ESTATE Founded by Bob and Barbara Tyrrell in 2000, Dryridge Estate proved to be a challenging growing environment, with the couple struggling against drought for many years.

Their persistence eventually paid off, as the pink-granite soil the vineyard was grown on added a distinct and crisp minerality to their varietals, the first commercial wines to come out of the Megalong Valley.

Emma MacMahon and Simon Doyle took the business over in July 2015, bringing a fresh determination to build on Bob and Barbara’s hard work by producing the best cool-climate wines possible from their grapes. Their strategy included engaging award-winning winemaker William Rikard-Bell of Rikard Wines, who honed his skills by undertaking stints in the Hunter Valley, Yarra Valley, Orange and the famed French wine-growing region of Bordeaux.

The combination of high-altitude, premium small-parcel fruit and traditional winemaking techniques delivers flavour, complexity, balance, texture and length – traits associated with all 12 wines in the Dryridge Estate range.

Nestled deep in the valley, Dryridge Estate has become a destination winery, where wine tastings, weddings and events take place on a regular basis. Emma and Simon’s hospitality ensures that your winery experience will be exceptional – after wining and dining at the Cellar Door and taking a wander around the beautiful grounds, you can extend the serenity by staying at the property’s 4.5-star accommodation. It’s a glorious way to spend a weekend. dryridge.com.au

MEGALONG CREEK ESTATE Established in 2002, Megalong Creek Estate is a family owned and run vineyard where father and daughter Mike and Kim Draguns are committed to producing Single Estate wines (wines made entirely from grapes owned by the winery).

They have been growing Pinot Grigio, Viognier and Shiraz from the start, and in 2018 diversified the vineyard by planting Pinot, Grenache and Mourvèdre varieties.

Once the grapes grown on the property have been harvested by hand, they are transported to Mudgee and turned into wine by highly regarded third-generation winemaker Jacob Stein, of Robert Stein Winery & Vineyard.

A visit to the Megalong Creek Estate cellar door gives you the chance to sample the small but perfectly formed wine list and enjoy a grazing platter while Mike and Kim regale you with the collective wine knowledge they have gathered from around the world. You can try their latest addition, Prozzante (a 2018 light and sparkling Prosseco-style dessert wine) and hear about plans to create a new cellar door ideal for larger groups and celebrating special occasions.

As you sit back and soak up the beautiful escarpment views, the younger family members can feed the alpacas and take a run around the paddock. They may never want to leave! megalongcreekestate.com

BOTTLED UP If you can’t make it to the Megalong Valley in the near future, Debra suggests that you seek out the following wines at your nearest bottle shop: • Darragh Wines 2016 Chardonnay: Easy on the palate now and destined to age to perfection, this complex drop features refreshing hints of nectarine and lemon, and a gentle, creamy texture.

• Darragh Wines 2011 Shiraz: Spicy and peppery with restrained, powdery Mudgee tannins, this Shiraz has been produced in the complex Rhône Valley style.

• Dryridge Estate 2017 ‘Alexander’ Pinot Noir: Gorgeously light, this delicate and perfumed wine boasts scents of earth, spice, cherries, strawberries, herbs and raspberries. It is destined to keep developing for up to seven years.

• Dryridge Estate 2017 ‘Isabelle’ Riesling: Pale with lifted floral and grassy aromas resulting from the Megalong Valley’s shorter growing season, this fruity wine has been crafted in the classic Alsation style.

• Megalong Creek Estate Viognier: Light and crispy, this dry white wine has apricot and lime characteristics and pairs perfectly with spicy food.

• Megalong Creek Estate Pinot Grigio: This late-harvest dessert wine is smooth and full in body and flavor with crisp and fruity notes of apple, pear, vanilla and orange peel. | 89

ARTISAN

SWEET DREAMS WITH HER FORWARD VISION AND PASSIONATE APPROACH TO HER CRAFT, CHOCOLATIER EXTRAORDINAIRE JODIE VAN DER VELDEN HAS PUT THE BLUE MOUNTAINS ON THE NATIONAL CHOCOLATE MAP. Words: Lisa Doust. Photos: Josophan’s Fine Chocolates.

It’s fitting that Jodie Van Der Velden opened her first store on an Easter weekend back in 2005. Having moved to the Upper Blue Mountains village of Leura not long before, the self-taught chocolatier had noticed a gap in the local market for high-end fine chocolates.

Jodie went on to sign up for a couple of short chocolatemaking courses in Melbourne before taking her first trip to Paris in 2007 to explore artisan chocolateries and visit the Salon du Chocolat Professionnel, a trade show dedicated to the chocolate and cocoa industry.

“Josophan’s Fine Chocolates was born out of a desire to create a small business that would allow me the flexibility to raise my two daughters while doing something I loved,” recalls Jodie. “The name is an amalgam of my name and those of my daughters, Sophie and Hannah.”

“The show really opened my eyes to what was happening on a global scale, and I felt a connection with those tiny French boutique chocolateries and what I was trying to achieve,” she says. “Patrick Roger, the artisan chocolatier and chocolate sculptor, became an inspiration, and visiting his production facility and spending time chatting with him was definitely inspirational.”

Keen to thoroughly master the craft of chocolate making, Jodie began to dig deeper. “I became aware of the process from bean to bar and respecting the ingredient,” she explains. “I was looking at how I could take the theory and science of working with chocolate to a new level, and as I created fillings and flavours that enhanced the chocolate, essentially I started to understand it could be an art form.”

Chantel Coady, founder of the globally renowned British company Rococo Chocolates, was a source of inspiration for Jodie in the early days. “Chantel raised my awareness of the source of the cacao beans and the process which impacted on the final product,” she says.

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In the years since, Jodie has returned to France to undertake training at Le Cordon Bleu, LeNotré and The Ritz Hotel Escoffier school: “I continued to hand-pick my training all over the world and made it a priority to visit cacao plantations in Central America, the Caribbean, the Pacific Islands and Africa to understand first-hand the process of growing and harvesting the cacao bean.

“I’ve always believed that to have integrity in what I did, it was important to immerse myself in the process of understanding every aspect of the industry, and the ethics surrounding the plantations came first and foremost.”

“Many of our chocolates have a very short shelf life, as we refuse to use preservatives or artificial flavours.�

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PURE INDULGENCE

PLATING UP

In keeping with her commitment to ethics, Jodie chooses to use Fair Trade certified chocolate and single origin/single plantation chocolate, where the exchange is transparent.

While her daughters have now grown up and found their own paths, Jodie remains as driven as ever and has made a significant contribution to the Blue Mountains food scene.

As well as Josophan’s, Jodie owns and operates Café Madeleine (also in Leura, on the original Josophan’s site) and the Gingerbread House, in the neighbouring village of Katoomba.

“My commitment to quality has underpinned everything I have done with Josophan’s, and sets us apart from others in our market,” she says. “Searching for the pure flavours and treating ingredients with respect has been paramount.”

Step into the store, at the top of Leura Mall, and you are likely to be a little overwhelmed by choice. The selection of Fine Chocolates is infused with everything from Passionfruit, Tahitian Vanilla Bean and Orange & Fresh Mint Leaf to Mayan Chilli and Honey & Saffron.

Along with a comprehensive range of chocolates, cakes and desserts, the Gingerbread House serves up breakfast and lunch menus that highlight local ingredients.

The Truffle range is equally tempting (Chai, Orange and Butterscotch truffles are all on offer), as are the Rocky Road options and chunky slabs of Milk Chocolate and Dark Chocolate.

“This was a really fun project to put together,” Jodie explains. “I fell in love with the old church building, which is over 100 years old and had just undergone a beautiful renovation. I knew it needed something characterful to do the space justice and felt there was a gap in the market for an accessible and large café environment where all demographics were welcome.”

“We choose not to use artificial ingredients and opt for fresh, natural flavour infusions,” says Jodie. “Many of our chocolates have a very short shelf life, as we refuse to use preservatives or artificial flavours. The chocolates are almost more like a patisserie product.”

At the same time as she was bringing the Gingerbread House into being, Jodie started talking to her great foodie friend Pam Seaborn about how desperately the profile of the Blue Mountains as a food and wine destination needed to be raised.

Using pure flavour infusions was almost unheard of in the Australian chocolate industry when Jodie founded her business, with many saying it would not be feasible.

“I think I’ve proved the naysayers wrong, as 14 years, millions of chocolates and many happy customers later, we’re still producing beautiful chocolates,” she adds.

“Pam and I set about creating Plate Up, a local food and wine advisory group. With other likeminded people in the Blue Mountains food and tourism industry, we look at initiatives where we have an opportunity to include a food and wine component,” says Jodie.

The annual Leura Harvest Festival is a perfect example of Plate Up in action. Each year Jodie and Pam organise a ‘Chef’s Table’, where the region’s finest chefs have the chance to connect directly with the community by creating and serving up tasting plates for just $7.50.

“The mountains encourages creativity, and I think you’re seeing that these days in the vibrancy of our restaurants, cafés and food producers,” says Jodie. “For visitors to our region, there’s an enormous choice of wining and dining experiences condensed into a relatively small area and surrounded by incredible natural beauty. It’s an exhilarating place to live and work.”

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EAT

FOOD FOR THOUGHT DESIGNED TO INSPIRE GIVING AND GATHERING, SOPHIE HANSEN’S NEW BOOK – A BASKET BY THE DOOR – SHOWCASES HER LOVE OF SIMPLE, TASTY DISHES THAT HONOUR THE SEASONS. Words: Lisa Doust. Photos: Sophie Hansen.

When Sophie Hansen discovered a generously filled basket at her door on the day she brought her newborn daughter home 11 years ago, the lovely gesture stayed with her.

beautiful fruit and produce,” Sophie explains. “I know it’s not always easy or possible to get seasonal ingredients and that cooking is a muscle that needs to be regularly exercised, but I’ve always found it’s worth the effort.”

“The basket was filled with a tray of lamb shanks, an apple cake, wine and other treats put together by a girlfriend,” says Sophie, a freelance food writer who lives in Orange with her farmer husband Tim and their two children.

“It was the most thoughtful thing, and that’s when the idea for A Basket by the Door started simmering away.”

Along with her delight at being surrounded by fresh produce, Sophie takes advantage of the fact that her husband Tim runs Mandagery Creek – a venison farm that adheres to holistic practices and supplies over 50 Australian restaurants, along with servicing the export market.

This beautiful, heartfelt cookbook has given Sophie the opportunity to bring all that she has learned about seasonal ingredients, wholesome cooking and sharing food together.

“The deer are moved through small paddocks on a regular basis, the idea being to get healthy soil and ground cover,” she explains. “The meat is beautifully tender, and I love cooking with it. Once people try it, they are always impressed.”

“There are 130 recipes in the book and to me they are all for giving and for gathering,” says Sophie. “I love the idea of spending half a day cooking because it gives me the chance to show family and friends they are worth my time.”

Easy to follow and focusing on flavour, the recipes are organised into the four seasons. “We do live in a bit of a bubble here in Orange, as we have easy access to so much 94 |

Sophie’s artist mother, Annie Herron, is another constant source of inspiration. “Mum is a fabulous cook and artist – her aesthetics and approach to colour has been a big influence on me all of my life,” says Sophie. “Mum taught me that loving what you do and where you live are key ingredients for happiness.”

“I love the idea of spending half a day cooking because it gives me the chance to show family and friends they are worth my time.�

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Venison Shepherd’s Pie Like all good, simple fare, this pie’s deliciousness is all thanks to the sum of its parts – a base of tasty soffritto, good-quality meat minced by hand and a light, fluffy potato topping. You could speed it up by skipping the long slow soffritto step and just sweating the onion, carrot and celery for 10 minutes or until soft and translucent. And you could also just buy pre-minced meat. The end result will still be lovely.

I am of course biased because we produce venison here on our farm, but truly this is the most wonderful of meats. Lean, full of delicate flavour and so easy to cook, please do try it whenever you get the opportunity. Here, venison brings an extra level of luxury to this simple, wonderful pie, but you could also stick with tradition and make this with minced lamb, or even minced beef (which is known as a cottage pie). Serves 6–8

Raw Raspberry, Orange & Cashew Slice A pretty and super-delicious slice, this makes a great present and is very easy to put together. Keep it in the freezer and transport in a cool box or chiller bag with an ice pack or it will soften and lose shape.

This is a filling treat, so serve in small squares. Makes 12-18 pieces INGREDIENTS Base 1½ cups (225g) pitted dates ½ cup (110g) ‘no-sugar’ crystallised ginger 3 cups (480g) almonds ½ cup (125g) coconut oil ½ tsp sea salt Middle and top 4½ cups (700g) raw cashews, soaked overnight in cold water 1 cup (250g) coconut cream ½ cup (175g) honey Grated zest and juice of 1 orange 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 1 drop orange essential oil (optional) 2 cups (250g) raspberries, plus an extra handful Dried rose petals, to garnish (optional) METHOD Line a 20cm square spring-form cake tin with baking paper. Mix all the base ingredients in a food processor until smooth; stop and scrape down the side every now and then. Press into the tin and pop in the freezer for 20 minutes.

For the middle and top layers, clean out the food processor, then tip in the drained cashews, coconut cream and honey. Blitz until smooth. Add the orange zest, orange juice, vanilla and orange oil, if using. Spoon half of the mixture over the base and return to the freezer for another 20 minutes.

Combine the raspberries and remaining cashew mixture and blitz until smooth. Spread over the middle layer. Top with the extra raspberries, then return to the freezer for at least 4 hours before cutting. Store in the freezer, allowing it to soften a little before serving with rose petals, if using.

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INGREDIENTS 3 brown onions, diced 2 carrots, peeled and diced 2 celery stalks ¼ cup (60ml) olive oil 700g venison topside or rump 150g butter 1 tbsp thyme leaves 400ml beef stock 1 tbsp cornflour 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp tomato paste (concentrated purée) 1kg floury potatoes ¼ cup (60ml) milk METHOD First start the soffritto. Combine the onion, carrot, celery and olive oil in a saucepan over low heat. Cook for 2 hours, stirring every now and then, until the mixture is a thick, dark-brown paste.

Meanwhile, cut the venison into small, pea-sized pieces. Doing this by hand takes about 10 minutes, but you could ask your butcher or use a food processor or mincer if you have one.

Melt 20g of the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium–high heat. Add the venison and thyme and cook, stirring often, until the venison is browned all over. Whisk together the beef stock and cornflour and add to the venison with the soffritto, Worcestershire sauce and tomato paste. Stir well, bring to a simmer and cook over low heat for 40 minutes. Season to taste.

While the meat is cooking, peel and cut the potatoes into small cubes. Place in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Cook over high heat until the potato is completely tender when pierced with a fork. Drain and mash with 50g of the butter and the milk.

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Transfer the meat mixture to an ovenproof dish and top with the mashed potato (I sometimes add it in clumps, which seems to help it crunch up during baking). Dot the top with the remaining butter and bake for 45 minutes or until the potato is golden and the meat is bubbling. Serve with a simple green salad.

(See image on middle bottom row page 45)

Images and recipes from A Basket by the Door by Sophie Hansen, Murdoch Books, RRP $39.99. Photography: Sophie Hansen, except page 249, by Lina Hayes.

Beetroot, Walnut & Pomegranate Dip This dip is great with pickled or fresh vegetables and crackers, served alongside barbecued meats, used as a base for a quinoa salad bowl or spread across toasted sourdough and topped with a little feta and rocket (arugula). Makes about 2½ cups INGREDIENTS 4 beetroot (about 700g), trimmed 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 cup (115g) walnuts, toasted 1 handful dill Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses, or to taste ½ tsp sea salt and a good grinding of black pepper, or to taste ¼ cup (70g) Greek-style yoghurt

METHOD Preheat the oven to 180°C. Cut the beetroot into quarters, place on a baking tray and drizzle with a little olive oil. Roast for 35 minutes, then tip the walnuts onto another baking tray and add them to the oven for 10 minutes or until they’re just turning golden and smelling lovely and aromatic, at which point remove them from the oven. Check that the beetroot is cooked (it’ll be tender right through when pierced with a knife) and remove it from the oven as well.

Put the beetroot and walnuts in the bowl of a food processor and add the dill, lemon zest, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon olive oil, pomegranate molasses, salt and pepper. Blitz until you have a smooth-ish purée, then add the yoghurt a little at a time until the dip reaches the desired consistency. Season to taste before serving.

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