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Danny Bourke // Photography: Joe Earley

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Miyake is considered the first Asian fashion designer to gain renown worldwide. Known for blending the flowing fabrics and textile designs of the East with modern technology and production methods of the West, he experimented with natural and synthetic fibers and advanced textile science. The winner of nearly every fashion award, he is known to dislike the title “fashion designer” and prefers to be considered an artist whose medium is fabric. Two of Miyake’s most popular lines are the Pleats Please prints that are permanently pleated yet flexible, and A-POC (A Piece of Cloth), a single, ready-to-wear piece of clothing. The Issey Miyake label also appears on numerous non-clothing items, including perfume, hosiery, and home furnishings. Miyake was born in 1938, in Hiroshima, Japan, and was seven years old when the atomic bomb was dropped on that city during World War II. His mother, a teacher, was badly burned by the bombing and died four years later of complications. In an illness unrelated to the bomb, Miyake suffered from a bone-marrow disease at age ten. Ironically, it was the American occupation in Japan that gave Miyake an introduction to western culture.Miyake’s interests turned to the artistic even as a child, and with dreams of being a dancer and an artist, he took an interest in the pictures of fashions in his sister’s glamour magazines. Admiring the way clothes could drape the human body to make a statement, he decided

M I Y A K E “

By the way, Marilyn Monroe was a size 14

“I don’t know much about you,” says Peter Greenaway, sipping his mint tea, “but I do know two things. You were conceived, two people did fuck, and I’m very sorry but you’re going to die. Everything else about you is negotiable.” Negligible, too. For Greenaway, there’s sex and there’s death and “what else is there to talk about?” He believes, he continues, as relaxed as if predicting rain tomorrow, “that all religion is about death and art’s about life. Religion is there to say: hey, you don’t have to worry – there’s an afterlife. Culture represents the opposite of that – sex. A very stupid Freudian way of looking at it, but one is positive and one is negative. Especially against people like you. All religions have always hated females.” Steam billows up from the cup into his face. He looks half David Attenborough, breath fogging the lens as he explores



Peter reenaway


I don’t want to be remembered as a person w

I want to

with Aids,

o be remembered as a person with ideas.

Leigh Bowery

26.03.61 - 31.12.94

Leigh Bowery (1961-1994), undoubtedly one of the most

of Margaret Thatcher (1979-1990), the birth of MTV

controversial and avant-garde personalities of the 80’s.

(1981), the fall of the Berlin wall (1989), the release of Like

“About Leigh Bowery” aims to be a photographic cross-

a Virgin (1984) and other music hits like Thriller (1982).

section of the deeds of the artist, performer, fashion

Moreover, with tv, and especially with the promotional use

designer, aspiring pop star and object of art that Leigh

of music videos, visual impact becomes essential for every

Bowery has been. Though almost unknown in Italy, he has

artist willing to enter the commercial circuit. Fergus Greer

changed the visual language of fashion, and his personality

and Johnny Rozsa met Bowery and collaborated with him



from 1986 to 1994,

like Lucian Freud,




away because of






series of portraits,

David LaChapelle,

both photographers

who all have shared

give to those who






his ideas.







him a real visual

For his ability to



Bowery and all he


Leigh Bowery can be considered as an







own image. Johnny

authentic witness of

Rozsa collaborates

the protest against

with Bowery in a



and conservatism,

for the creation of







With an unusually

of every life that








view fashion

rules of conduct

photog rapher,

or appearance, in a



pure new-romantic



style, bringing out the individual with the expressive

transformism, which sacrifices the wearability of the dress

freedom of genius. Bowery offers himself in an image

in favour of the show. As well as actively collaborating

that - in a transgender vision - goes beyond the separation

with him, Fergus Greer is also a dear friend of Bowery’s:

of masculine and feminine appearances and behaviour by

he released the “Leigh Bowery Looks” book, with

means of the body and clothes, originating new concepts

previously unreleased photos. It is Wexactly with this

of glamour and beauty. Leigh Bowery is one of the most

visual account that the more intimate acquaintance

extreme interpreters of the historical context he lives in:

between the two emerges. Greer captures al the profound

the one of the abolition of every limitation in favour of

and hard work that Bowery carries on around his body.

complete experimentation and contamination among the

“I try to have the best possible image thanks to my

languages of music, art, fashion and design. It is the decade

individuality and expressiveness”. (Leigh Bowery)v


He was an astounding innovator who changed the course of art. He was also a bit of a prophet. In honor of his passing, we revisit a 1990 interview full of insights that still sparkle today.

Up until May 12, 2008, if you polled the cognoscenti as to who was the world’s greatest living artist, the winner would undoubtedly have been Robert Rauschenberg. But on that date, Rauschenberg moved into another category of greatness. And though his physical heart finally gave out after he chose to remove himself from life support, his spiritual heart beats on in his generous body of work and in the charities he foundedincluding Change, Inc., which has provided emergency funds for artists in distress for more than 30 years, and the Robert Rauschenberg Foundation, a nonprofit devoted to raising awareness of the many issues with which he was involved.

While Andy Warhol may be more associated with Pop art, Rauschenberg was the prime mover of Pop and an enormous

Words like ‘important’ and ‘controversial’ inevitably surface when you examine the lengthy career of German composer Karlheinz Stockhausen. A few facts to kick off. He pioneered electronic music in “variable form”. He has written graphical scores that can be read from any direction. Inspired by dreams of flying, he has written works for a string quartet where each participant performs from their own helicopter hovering aWbove the concert hall. In short, he does things none of us really understand but sound really quite impressive.




wan Lake is a beautiful, tragic story. The delicate art of ballet sensitively describes both the joy and turmoil

of its main characters. Tchaikovsky’s accomplished composition of music expressed through dance tells of the love between a prince and a cursed princess, who is bound to an evil sorcerer. In their fight to free her from her captor, they realise that their only escape is to leap to their deaths.

When, in Darren Aronofsky’s Black Swan, the artistic director of a New York ballet school announces that Swan Lake will be the season’s title performance, whispers begin to circulate amongst the dancers. Who will win the role of the white swan and its black counterpart? One of those dancers is Nina Sayers (Natalie Portman), a shy, innocent ballerina who lives under the strict watch of her troubled mother. Erica Sayers (Barbara Hershey) was once a ballerina, but sacrificed her career to have Nina. Bitter and twisted, she now lives her life vicariously through Nina’s experiences, and maintains an unhealthy influence over her daughter.

Director Thomas Leroy (Vincent Cassel)

obsessive dancer. Black Swan explores

finally settles on Nina to play the lead, and

the lengths to which someone will go to

challenges her to release her inhibitions

achieve their ambition. Hungry to refine

in order to play both swan roles. ‘When

her talent, Nina embraces self-inflicted

I look at you, all I see is the white swan,’

‘the only person standing in your way is you.’

he says. ‘I never see you lose yourself . . . perfection is not just about control, it’s about letting go.’ And so begins Nina’s harrowing descent into madness, as her yearning for perfection begins to take a consuming, strangling hold on her mind. Natalie



performance as the tormented ballerina is certainly award-worthy. It is with her that we delve deep into the psyche of an

physical and mental pain. Her simple existence is dominated by ballet. She lives in a bubble of strict regime, where her days consist of little more than practice and preparation for routines. Her mother ensures that nothing

to suicide attempts and self-harming, spends the majority of the film in hospital. But Nina believes that Beth is ‘perfect.’ She aspires to be like her idol, disregarding her mental state.

comes between her daughter and her art. The childlike décor of Nina’s bedroom, and her infantile relationship with her mother indicates that she is a woman who has not yet grown up. ‘He picked me, Mommy,’ delight.





with has

breathless no


as her little girl. When their already shaky

Both Thomas and another dancer, Lily

relationship begins to dissolve, we see

(Mila Kunis), seek to bring out the darker,

glimpses of disturbing behaviour in Erica,

sensual side of Nina. Lily introduces Nina

who stands in the dark waiting for Nina to

to partying, alcohol, drugs and men. She is

return home, and watches her sleep. Erica

Nina’s main dancing rival and a more suitable

“...perfection is not just about control, it’s about letting go”

friends, and any interaction with her peers at the ballet school is distanced and strained.

becomes an uncomfortable, suffocating

Isolated from full adulthood and all that it offers,

matriarch. Beth Macintyre (Winona Ryder) is

the lack of stable, reliable relationships in Nina’s

Nina’s role model, and is loved by many at the

life lends itself to the ease with which she falls.

ballet school. When forced to retire due to her

Erica maintains parental control, preserving Nina

age, Beth begins to unravel and, now prone

black swan according to Thomas. She is ‘imprecise but effortless.’ She knows how to let go without being emotionally affected, unlike Nina. Thomas’s inappropriately sexual teaching methods at first evoke an angered reaction from Nina – to Thomas’s delight – since he can see that Nina has fire within her.

Art Directed: Jack Sanders Photography: Cicely-Grace Ellison

I’m human, I’m not perfect.


Many people strive for ‘perfection’ in their life,

and neutral neutrons do everything they can

is a little bit more negative than positive (with

through their work, their family, and their love

to balance out in any and every situation

their thoughts and actions), that there will be

lives. All the time we hear about, or are even

imaginable. By that logic, all of our faults

another person in the world who is a little

called ‘perfectionists’, and usually in a negative

and imperfections exist inherently as part

bit more positive than negative. If more of

context. There have been many great humans

of our perfection. How could we ever do

humanity is positive than negative, maybe the

throughout history that we choose to revere

the most important work in life (learning

balance of energies could show up elsewhere,

and respect because of their virtuous deeds,

to love), if we already know everything?


Everyday we go to work and we do our utmost

The point of this article is to get you to

to do the best job possible. We want things to

question your desire for a perfect life.

Nobody’s Perfect is a cool motto that

be perfect. Supposedly no circle ever drawn

Maybe it already is. Maybe you are already

appeared on Lisa Simpson’s hat when TV’s ‘The

has been perfectly round. I believe it’s the same

aware of it. If life was all happiness and joy

Simpsons’ (you had better know who they are)

with people.You might now be asking, ‘If we are

we wouldn’t know what happiness and joy

family went to Australia . Could imperfections

all inherently flawed and have no possibility of

were, as we’d have nothing to compare them

be paradoxically perfect in themselves? If you

attaining a perfect state, what’s the use in even

to. If we never made mistakes, how would

look close enough at all of the great names

trying? The answer is as simple as two Hydrogen

we know we were even learning anything?

in recorded history you will see that besides

atoms coming together with one Oxygen

What would a life be without the experience

their crowning achievements they also carried

atom to make a single molecule of water.

of learning? What would it amount to?

average person. John Lennon beat his first

We may always have faults, but if we do our

There’s no need to try and be perfect. Either

wife, Martin Luther King Jr. had extramarital

best with altruistic intention driving us forward,

you already are perfect, or you will never

affairs…Gandhi, Nelson Mandela, Einstein, and

we will make the world a better place. You

achieve perfection.There is a point in doing the

even Mother Theresa must have done things

may still obsessively eat chocolate but if you

best you can everyday, even if today that simply

that were socially or morally unacceptable.

write up the achievable ‘2050 Plan for World Peace’, people are going to forgive you. On the

ever lived had doubted their abilities because

So, is striving for perfection a pipe-dream when

other hand, if you sit at home hating yourself

they had faults, nothing great would ever have

we realize that no matter what our lives are

to be

means getting out of bed. If everyone who

because of your chocolate addiction, you

been done. If everyone compared themselves

destined to become, there will always be a

aren’t going to help the world, and in essence

to people who have already come and gone

balance of negative influence in our actions?

you’re not going to achieve the balance of

and achieved greatness, then no one would

What about the Buddha? Buddha means

energy (both positive and negative) that

‘perfect one’, and when he supposedly achieved

you require to attain satisfaction in your life.

but were they perfect? It probably comes down to how you look at it, ‘it’ being perfection.







with them the faults and mistakes of the


‘enlightenment’ he no longer had imperfections.


But look at what he had to go through to get

Within paradox there is always the other

to that feeling/awareness. Was his life up to that

side of the coin and so I have to suggest

have had the courage to follow their dreams,

point flawless? No way. If you asked the Buddha

yet another perspective. If everything in the

goals, and purposes. If Einstein had compared

about his life I’m sure he’d say right away that

Universe is already balanced then doesn’t that

himself to Da Vinci, and subsequently been

he only learnt what he did by making mistakes.

imply that no matter what we do, good or bad,

scared into inaction, we would never have

we will balance out evenly? It depends upon

gained the knowledge that he shared with

Could it be that we are all already perfect?

what size picture you’re analyzing. If you’re

the rest of us. Einstein wasn’t perfect. My bet

Everything in the Universe is scientifically

looking at human society as a whole you might

is he probably had a few problems with his

balanced. Negative electrons, positive protons,

choose to believe that for every person that

personal hygiene, you know, cutting his nostril



A Magazine dedicated to artists that push things and do something different