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Slow Food Master Italian Cooking News, no. 1, year IV, Ottobre 2005

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- news 2005

SCHOOL OF ITALIAN REGIONAL COOKING Jesi • Italy


Provincia di Vercelli

Terre d’acqua

Enormi distese di terra ed acqua nella piana vercellese. Il riso, la sua coltivazione, la sua lavorazione, Provincia di Vercelli Assessorato Agricoltura www.provincia.vercelli.it

la sua trasformazione. Il mercato piÚ importante d’Europa.


contents

Does food still come from the soil? Gianfranco Mancini

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Biodiversity in an Orchard Carla Ranicki

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Our Daily Work

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Master Italian Cooking News MAGAZINE OF THE ISTITUTO SUPERIORE DI GASTRONOMIA

In Vercelli: among the rice paddies

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Editorial Director Gianfranco Mancini

Buffalo Milk Mozzarella

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To quote our Students...

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Regional Dishes: Arancini di riso

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General Program

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Weekly Work Plan

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La Pasta

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Taste of Italy: the authentic San Marzano tomato

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Amazing Friuli Hospitality

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Lacrima di Morro d’Alba

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To Convivium Leaders

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Rosso Conero Wine

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Editorial Staff Paolo Bellini, Paolo Costantini, Anna Maria D’Eusanio, Marco Epifani, Armando Gambera, Carlo Gazzarrini, Marisa Gigliotti, Corrado Maiorca, Piergiorgio Oliveti, Federico Piemonte, Pasquale Porcelli, Gilberto Venturini. Editorial Co-ordination Arduino Tassi Translations Martha Huber Scavone Graphics and page layout GEI Gruppo Editoriale Informazione Elisabetta Carletti Printing Arti Grafiche Jesine - Jesi Advertising and administration Associazione Ital. Cook. via F. Conti n. 5 – 60035 JESI (AN) Italy Tel. ++39.0731.56400 Fax ++39.0731.59623 Web: www.italcook.it E.mail: info@italcook.it Recorded in the Tribunal of Ancona no. 433/02, 22.02.2002 Editor-in-chief: Dino Mogianesi

ASSOCIAZIONE ITAL.COOK. Founded by Slow Food and the Town Council of Jesi Board of Directors Ferdinando Avenali, Silvio Barbero, Katia Mammoli. Reviser Board Giuliano Cerioni, Sabrina Rotatori, Angelo Vico.

Cover: Natura morta con anguria tagliata a metà, frutta, zucca tagliata, peperoni verdi, oliera e sporta in paglia Sebastiano Ceccarini (Fano, 1703 - 1783)

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Does food still come from the soil?

Biodiversity in an Orchard

Il cibo viene dalla terra o è prodotto dall’industria? Forse conviene tornare a riflettere su questa semplice domanda se vogliamo assicurare a noi stessi piacere e benessere.

For many of us who have had a childhood spent living close to the country, or actually living on a piece of land, in the midst of cultivated fields which changed colors and scents each season, this question leaves no doubt. But what about young people, and especially our children, are they sure of the answer? When they only see food go from a supermarket display case to the refrigerator at home and then onto our plate, perhaps some have forgotten where food originates. The food we eat on a daily basis is often so completely transformed by industry that it seems to have lost any relationship to the soil. It is a fact that industry transforms the products of the land, but that transformation has become so drastic and generalized that the true origin of the products seems to have been overlooked. Perhaps it is time for everyone to think again about where food comes from and it is a good thing for educators of primary school children, in the United States as well as in Italy, to dig

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a vegetable garden next to the school and teach the children to plant a seed, watch it sprout and see the plant grow to finally appreciate the flavour and aroma of the final product. I was thinking of these things when, a few months ago in the Springtime, I was with a group of Students from our Masters Course and together we went out to find a beautiful green field, at the foothills of a mountain and far from any chemical products of any kind, to look for wild greens and herbs. Going back to natural herbs, going back to the land, means learning to recognize those herbs that once were commonly used to flavor salads, soups, risottos and egg dishes. Then we became “modern” and learned to flavor our dishes with broth cubes: lovely progress, is it not?

In our School we put great emphasis on the education of the senses, on tasting techniques, on using fresh ingredients, on using products from traditional processing methods. It is a daily commitment which requires a serious effort, to first observe carefully, then inhale deeply of the aroma and finally, taste slowly. But it is worth it; the game becomes delight as the senses are reawakened, as the mind becomes critical again and eating is no longer a mechanical gesture! It is at this point that daily food, even the simplest item, can be considered in terms of its relationship with the land and thus, we can appreciate a growing sense of pleasure and wellbeing within ourselves. The Director Gianfranco Mancini

Carla Ranicki

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concetto di Biodiversità è al centro di ogni riflessione sul futuro del cibo. Carla racconta la visita dei nostri corsisti ad un frutteto dove sono state piantate quasi 150 varietà locali di mela, tutte diverse. Grazie all’Università Politecnica delle Marche, Facoltà di Agraria, abbiamo potuto toccare con mano ed assaggiare tanti tipi di mela. La Biodiversità non è solo un concetto ma anche colori, profumi e sapori.

All we’d heard about the field trip was that it was to learn about apple varieties at Ancona University. Expecting a dry lecture in a dusty classroom, we were thrilled when, a short bus ride out of Jesi, we found ourselves in an orchard. As we walked up long lanes of apple trees, we picked and tasted ancient, indigenous varieties of apples full of flavor. The orchard belongs to the Azienda Agraria Sperimentale of the Università Politecnica delle Marche, located in the small village of Agugliano. Their stone farmhouse looks out over a valley where the researchers, led by Prof. Rodolfo Santilocchi, cultivate local varieties of fruits, vegetables and livestock that have been lost to consumers due to the food industry and globalization. We learned that just four kinds of apple make up 90 percent of the world market. As well as providing little choice for shoppers, it also means that the genetic pool available for cros-

ses is small. With the 150 varieties grown at the Azienda Agraria, it’s possible to breed apple trees that are naturally resistant to disease and pests, and so don’t need to be treated with fungicides and pesticides. Part of the orchard that contains the center’s decade-old collection of apple trees (all native to the Marche) has never been treated with chemicals. The difference between the flourishing local varieties and the stunted and leafless Golden Delicious

trees was striking. Prof. Santilocchi was also eager to impress on us that the advantages of biodiversity go beyond benefits to the environment and our health. Every apple variety has a different taste, texture, acidity and sugar level. In the kitchen, it’s important to use the right kind of apple to complement the dish. Back at the farmhouse after visiting the orchard, this was brought home as we sampled a dozen different apple cultivars: red, pink, orange, yellow and green, striped, spotted and splotched. Limoncella, a straw-yellow with greenish tinges, had a distinct lemony flavor, while the pinkishyellow Gelata was very firm and sweet. Not only can these diverse tastes add an extra dimension to an apple dish, but chefs can also help promote biodiversity by using local produce varieties and naming them on menus. In this way people can learn that there’s more to apples than Golden Delicious. 3


OUR DAILY WORK Il corso è molto intenso; sono settimane di studio e di lavoro. Ogni giorno esperienze nuove, un patrimonio di conoscenze da conservare come un tesoro. Making bread is an art but it is also a passion. In every course there is a Student who becomes fascinated by and falls in love with bread baking. It starts with working with natural yeast, then

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experimenting with different flours, getting to know the oven personally. . . and finally, trying to make bread! It usually doesn't turn out perfectly on the first try and so then each day, you try and try again. Sitting down to table and having a fresh, hot, fragrant roll is a delight for every customer and one of the things that truly makes eating a pleasurable experience.

*** If we could only know all of the herbs that are good to cook with and are good for our health than we would be richer than any king. If you happen by a field in the Springtime and taste the good fresh herbs, you will experience new, clean, satisfying flavours. Only then can you understand how chemicals, used so heavily in industrial food production, have forever altered our taste buds.

*** In order to make a good Parmigiano cheese, for starters, good fodder and a “happy� cow are essential ingredients. Then comes the rest: the milk, the expertise of the dairyman, the ageing. . . An exciting day spent in the country near Reggio Emilia to taste a product unlike any other in the world, made today the same way it has been for centuries, with knowledge and skill.

*** Say pizza and you think Italy. And so here we are with a pizza maker to learn all about the dough, the rising, the timing, the oven, the right heat. . . did you think it was a simple task to make a good pizza? It isn't indeed, seeing is believing.

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In Vercelli: among the rice paddies

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fter two days of work on Tuscan recipes, we left at dawn, to head for Piemonte. Vercelli

is far, they say it will take six hours, so some people listen to music, others sleep. Once we leave the Adriatic sea, which appears occasionally on our right, blue and tranquil, we cross all of Emilia Romagna. Around midday we begin to see the first rice paddies, many of which are already flooded, ready for the new rice season. We read that in the past, women came from far away to plant the rice and to weed the paddies by hand, but now all of

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the work is done with new cultivating techniques. Even the fish, which once used to be allowed to live in the rice fields and were a source of food, have disappeared, a thing of the past. After a brief lecture on the origins of rice cultivation in this Province, which dates back to the 1500’s, we learn about the different varieties of rice that are selected and grown here. Then we go to visit a rice mill, where the rice is processed and we can observe firsthand all of the different phases from the husking, to the polishing to the packaging. It was also very interesting to see the different varieties and colors of aromatic rice. But what was really fascinating was the visit to the Old Mill in Fontanetto Po. At one time, back in the late 1400’s, it had been a flour mill for grinding wheat, but then for 400 years it was used for processing rice. A canal brings water from the nearby Po River and sets all of the machinery in

motion. As we explored this three-story building it was like taking a walk back through the centuries to relive the past. In the modern rice mill, where the machines are run by electric energy, it is incredibly noisy, whereas here, in the old mill, dozens and dozens of belts seem to move effortlessly and the sound is almost like music. Italy produces over half of all the rice grown in Europe and the Province of Vercelli lies in the very heart of this production area. Here is where research is done, where the different cultivars are selected and where new growing techniques are tried. After our full immersion in the world of rice… it was off to the restaurant, to enjoy a meal based on a sampling of local

traditional dishes. Our host greeted us on the doorstep, wearing a large hat on his head (perhaps it is the same kind of hat people used to wear when they worked in the rice paddies); we could say, so broad was his hat and so broad was his welcome.

Italian language courses for Ital.Cook. students Courses held at The British Centre A – INTENSIVE COURSE

B – REGULAR COURSE

(before the Master’s Course)

(during the Master’s Course)

- Minimum duration: 1 month - 3 hours per day (2 hours in the morning/1 hour in the afternoon) - 15 hours per week, Monday through Friday only - Ital.Cook makes available an apartment with kitchen priviledges, food not included - Cost: € 1.500,00 per person

- Duration: 1 month or more - 3 hours per week - 1 hour per day, from 7 to 8 p.m., Monday through Friday. - Cost: € 300,00 per month, per person.

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Buffalo Milk Mozzarella

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edere con i propri occhi come nasce una lucida e morbida mozzarella ci aiuta a capire quanta manualità e quante antiche conoscenze vi sono racchiuse.

To obtain a good mozzarella cheese one must start from the water buffalo itself and so our tour of the farm began at the barn. Giulia accompanied us and many were surprised at how she showed a sentiment akin to fondness for those animals as she talked about their gentle and docile nature. It certainly is true then, that to make a good product, any product that we eat, one must put in passion and love. If you don’t know how to pet your buffalo cow, how can your mozzarella be very good? Then it was on to the dairy lab where some steps of the operation had already been completed. Rennet had been added to the milk which had coagulated to make curds. These were then broken up manually, just like it used to always be done when people used a pointed wooden implement. Nowadays almost everything is made of stainless steel. After a few hours, during which time the curds mature, purge and acidify, the product is ready to be pulled. At this point we were eagerly waiting to see the last phases in the cheesemaking process. 8

The mass of curds is immersed in near-boiling 95°C water and is slowly stirred so that some of the water is incorporated and a homogeneous mass is obtained. The cheese mass is removed then and it looks like a great ball, smooth and glossy, with a very thin skin. Here is where the demonstration becomes fascinating as each mozzarella is twisted off by hand. The process requires two people: one holds the mass of cheese, the other uses both hands to pull and cut off small amounts of cheese, using forefinger and thumb, to make the mozzarella we enjoy on our tables. The name derives from the Italian verb “mozzare” – to cut off. Of course we couldn’t leave without tasting: the freshly made cheese had an elastic texture and was quite dense when chewed. The palate detected an overall sweetness in taste, with a light saltiness and a barely perceptible acidulous note. When given the opportunity to taste a real mozzarella, literally made before your very eyes, it is difficult to go back to eating the industrially-produced versions which are already several weeks old!


To quote our Students... My experiences at Ital.Cook in Jesi were amazing. The location is great, the facilities very professional and the brigade very warm and friendly. We studied a lot of regional and classical dishes. I highly encourage anyone interested in learning about Italian food to enrol at the Ital.Cook School. Ore The chefs were good and we were able to learn many things. We would have needed much more time. I am leaving now for my internship to learn pizzamaking. I’m very happy. Thankyou so much. Shozo I liked the lessons on wine very much and the other cooking lessons very much. Unfortunately, I do not know the Italian language very well and this was difficult; it is a good idea to study Italian before taking the course. It was great to live with the others; we 10

got to know each other and I was able to understand the culture of students from other countries, what a joy! Takayuki This school offers two other important things besides the cooking classes: the lessons on wine, oil, cheese, etc and the field trips to producers in the various regions. Thank-you for accepting me to this school. I will never forget the days spent here. Burdun The opportunity to learn firsthand about traditional products was one of the most important and interesting aspects of the program. It was wonderful to be able to compare artisan and industrial differences and it was fascinating to taste so many of these products. Katherine

I want to say thank-you for allowing me to attend this school. For me this course is an introduction to Italian regional cooking that I will spend the rest of my life researching. It’s just been an incredible amount of information. The Friuli trip surpassed everyone’s expectations, it was a fantastic trip! The parmigiano and balsamico trip was also excellent. My apartment worked out fine for me. I look forward to seeing all of you again and again! Judith I have understood that in order to know Italian cooking it is very important to learn about regional cooking. For me, the lessons on wine, oil and bread were very interesting. I will spend a year in Italy and I want to study pasta, bread and pastry. Kotomi

I really enjoyed all the lessons we had on wine, oil, cheese, salumi and bread. The olive oil lesson was extremely interesting to me and I learned a lot. The field trips were wonderful. The program was above and beyond my expectations. Roslyn The chefs brought many products from their region and we were able to taste the quality. Through these lessons I really got a feeling for which region is best for me and the cuisine I will be cooking in Canada. The trips were well organized: it is very important to see, taste and feel the different regions. I was very impressed with the organization of staff at school in helping the students and meeting all our needs and concerns. Adam

have learned to taste products using the right technique. I have gained precious experience and I saw many things with my own eyes. Over the next few months I want to learn more about Sicilian cooking. Daisuke The lessons in the kitchen were fantastic and I am truly amazed by the number of dishes we prepared during the past ten weeks. The weekend trips were also enjoyable. Jason

The Monday classes were interesting despite the difficulty with the language. I tasted many things and now I 11


Arancini di riso Fried rice balls

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li Arabi introdussero in Sicilia prima gli agrumi e poi il riso attorno al Mille. Gli arancini (o arancine) di riso dell’arancia hanno solo la forma e il colore poiché si tratta di riso farcito con carne e formaggio, fatto a piccola palla e fritto. È un piatto simbolo della Sicilia, si può mangiare freddo, come cibo di strada.

The Arabs first introduced citrus fruits and rice to Sicily around the year 1000. The name “arancini” means little oranges but the only connection is the shape because they are made of rice with meat and cheese, formed into small balls and fried. This is a typical Sicilian dish and can also be eaten cold, like street food. Ingredients: 2 broth cubes 300g rice for risotto 150 ground beef 75g ground pork 50g tomato paste 1 large onion 2 carrots 2 celery stalks salt and pepper 100g grated parmigiano 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp butter 1 glass red wine 1 dose of saffron (little bag)

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Preparation: Prepare the broth in a pot. When ready, add the rice and the saffron. Cook over low heat for about 12 minutes. When the rice is cooked, add the ragù, the parmigiano and the butter. Let it cook in a wide dish. When cool, form small balls. Roll them first in flour, then in beaten egg and last, in fine bread crumbs. Fry in plenty of hot oil and remove when they are nicely browned. For the ragù: In a medium-size skillet with oil, sauté the onion, carrot and celery,

finely chopped. Cook until very soft. Add the ground meat, blend well and cook over medium-high heat. Let the meat brown well, add salt, pepper and the tomato paste. Add the red wine, let evaporate, add a little water, cover and let simmer for about an hour.

General Program Course Dates 2006

Course Dates 2007

7 January - 9 March 22 March - 25 May 7 June - 10 August 4 October - 7 December

8 January - 9 March 21 March - 25 May 6 June - 9 August 8 October - 13 December 13


Il Programma

zione di vino, olio di oliva, pasta, formaggi, salumi tipici e tradizionali selezionati tra i migliori produttori di tutto il territorio nazionale. Nel tempo libero ciascun corsista avrà la possibilità di approfondire le proprie conoscenze con studio individuale presso la biblioteca dell’Istituto. 5 Le lezioni si terranno nei giorni di martedì, mercoledì, giovedì e venerdì, con orario pieno. Dopo una breve presentazione storicogeografico della Regione con le sue tradizioni enogastronomiche e con le sue particolarità ambientali, si passerà allo studio concreto dei piatti tipici del territorio. L’insegnamento non sarà teorico, ma principalmente pratico ed individuale. I docenti e le materie prime provengono dalle singole regioni e cambiano ogni settimana. A volte, il venerdì sera la scuola apre le porte alla città e presenta i piatti più interessanti della settimana. 6 Il sabato e la domenica sono riservati allo studio individuale e alla conoscenza di aziende, produttori, prodotti tipici nei vari settori alimentari. Alcuni produttori verranno direttamente presso la Scuola per presentare i loro prodotti con prova di assaggio, in altri casi gli chef usciranno sul territorio per conoscere le singole aziende e i produttori in tutte le regioni d’Italia. Alcuni fine settimana sono dedicati alla visita delle città d’arte. 7 Il numero massimo di partecipanti è di quindici corsisti, ai quali si garantisce anche vitto e alloggio in appartamenti in palazzi storici, nel centro della città, a pochi passi dalla Scuola. Il costo del corso, compreso vitto e alloggio, divise di lavoro, è di diecimila euro, più duemila euro di iscrizione. 8 Alla fine del corso viene rilasciato ufficialmente un Master con il riconoscimento della Regione Marche e del Ministero del Lavoro.

1 The courses are designed for chefs working outside Italy who wish to widen and improve their knowledge of Italian cuisine. In particular we are addressing cooks who have completed their training and have worked alongside established chefs for some time. Our aim is to provide a wideranging frame of reference with plenty of in-depth detail that will enable cooks to interpret Italian cuisine to the highest standards throughout the world. Those wishing to take this Master's should thus be familiar with basic culinary techniques. 2 The courses are held at the Institute, which is located in Palazzo Balleani, n. 5 via F. Conti in Jesi, a city of 40,000 inhabitants in the central Italian region of the Marche. Each course lasts for ten weeks, and those taking part will all be able to further their experience by specializing for a few months or even a year with restaurants associated with Slow Food throughout Italy. They will thus come into direct contact with restaurateurs specialized in meat or fish dishes, from North to South, comprising a whole range of particular regional specialties. 3 Every week the cuisine of a particular Region of Italy will be the object of a special focus, such that by the end of the course the cooks will be familiar with Italian cooking in its foremost regional expressions: from the traditional rural dishes of Tuscany to the fish preparations of the Adriatic; from the cheeses of Piedmont to the tortellini of Emilia Romagna; from the vegetable dishes of Puglia to the sweets of Sicily; from the cuisine of the Alpine valleys to that of the Mediterranean coast. Italy is a complex mosaic of history and products, dishes and traditions, scents and savors. Every "festa" is indeed a feast, which means a particular dish and a celebration of life. 4 One day a week, preferably Monday, will be devoted to short single-topic courses with tastings of wine, olive oil, pasta, cheese

and cured meats selected from the country's foremost producers. During their free time, the participants will have access to the Institute Library, where they will be able to do more research on subjects of special interest to them. 5 Lessons will be held all day on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Following a brief historical and geographical introduction to the Region, its environmental features and its food and wine heritage, students will move on to the preparation of typical regional dishes. These will be practical, hands-on lessons taught by regional specialists using specific regional ingredients that will change from week to week. On some Fridays the School will open its doors to a select public, presenting the most interesting dishes of the week's endeavor for their evaluation. 6 Saturdays and Sundays will be devoted to individual study and getting to know a wide range of producers and their products. Some producers will present their products at the school, where tasting sessions will also be arranged. Others will welcome chefs to their premises throughout the country for weekend visits. Other weekend activities may include visiting Italy's art cities. 7 Each course will be attended by no more than fifteen participants, who will also receive board and lodging in apartments in the center of the city, not far from the School. The cost of the course, including board, lodging, work uniforms etc. is ten thousand euro, plus two thousand euro registration fee. 8 At the end of the course all participants will receive an official Master's certificate under the aegis of the Marche Region and the Italian Ministry of Labor.

The Program

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1 I corsi sono riservati a cuochi che operano all’estero e vogliono acquisire una conoscenza approfondita della cucina italiana. Ci rivolgiamo in particolare a cuochi che abbiano già terminato il loro curriculum scolastico o che abbiano lavorato per qualche tempo accanto ad altri chef di cucina. Noi desideriamo dare una conoscenza ampia e rigorosa, con metodo organico e preciso a coloro che desiderano fare cucina italiana nel mondo in modo professionale. Pertanto chi desidera partecipare al nostro Master deve già conoscere le fondamentali tecniche di lavoro in cucina. 2 I corsi si svolgono presso la sede dell’Istituto in via F. Conti, 5 nel Palazzo Balleani, a Jesi, cittadina di 40.000 abitanti, nelle Marche, nell’Italia Centrale. I corsi hanno una durata di dieci settimane. Tutti coloro che frequenteranno il Master avranno la possibilità di continuare la loro esperienza per alcuni mesi o un anno presso i ristoranti della catena Slow Food in tutt’Italia, da nord a sud, specializzandosi sia in carne che pesce, nelle Regioni che ciascuno preferisce. 3 Ogni settimana viene presentata, studiata ed elaborata la cucina di una Regione d’Italia. Alla fine del corso ogni professionista conoscerà la cucina italiana nelle più elevate espressioni regionali: dalla cucina tradizionale e contadina della Toscana al pesce dell’Adriatico, dai formaggi del Piemonte ai tortellini dell’Emilia Romagna, dalle verdure della Puglia ai dolci della Sicilia, dalla cucina delle valli alpine a quella mediterranea. L’Italia è un mosaico infinito di storie e di prodotti, di piatti e di tradizione, di profumi e di sapori in ogni terra. Da noi per ogni festa c’è un piatto e per ogni piatto c’è una festa! 4 Un giorno a settimana, di preferenza il lunedì, è dedicato a corsi brevi, monotematici con degusta-

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Weekly Work Plan MONDAY THEMED TASTING AT THE REGIONAL ENOTECA 1. Wine Getting to know the principal vines and wines of Italy • The vine, the grape, different vinifications: white, red, rosè • The production of sparkling and dessert wines • Wine tasting: Visual, Olfactory and Taste examination • Italy: the grapes and the wines of northern, central and southern Italy • Principles of food and wine pairing 2. Extra Virgin Olive Oil Recognizing excellent products • Understanding the oil-making process • Taste-testing for qualities and defects • Appreciating oils from various regions and the islands 3. Cheese Appreciating Italian cheeses • Cheese-making methods • Ageing and refining • Typical regional products from North to South

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4. Charcuterie Products Discovering regional traditions • Salumi- cooked and raw; ground paste or whole meat • Salami and ciauscolo • Cured pork- coppa, lonza, lonzino • Prized cuts- prosciutto, culatello, fiocco • Mortadella and bresaola 5. Bread Working with leavened dough • Different flours and yeasts • Common, whole wheat and seasoned varieties • Breadsticks and holiday breads

TUESDAY-FRIDAY COOKING COURSE WITH DIFFERENT REGIONAL DISHES EACH WEEK Timetable: from 8:30a.m. to 5:30p.m. Workshop for the senses At the beginning of each week the Region is introduced with a brief overview of its history and geography. Then each day the lesson starts with a presentation of the prime ingredients: their characteristics, quality, zone of origin and the companies that produce them.

Regional Enoteca of Jesi

This is our “tasting laboratory” and lasts for about an hour.

base dishes will be studied. Work ends at 5:30p.m.

Transfer to the teaching kitchen The Instructor explains the recipes for the day and prepares each dish right along with the Students who follow the process and also prepare the dishes themselves. All the operations are carefully observed and guided by the expert Chef. The work will not be rushed, but done with precision in the time required. When the cooking is finished, the dishes are taken to the table to be tasted, checked and compared.

Friday evening highlights At the close of a week’s work on some Friday evenings the School is open to a select public. In the Pergolesi Hall a dinner-tasting will be offered to 20 to 25 people with a series of dishes jointly prepared by teachers and students, each recipe according to the traditions of their region of origin. Top quality prime ingredients and wines will be used from the School’s sponsor companies and those chosen by Slow Food from among the best at national level.

WEEKEND Weekends are dedicated to getting to know the regions and their products by direct contact with the producers. Some weeks the producers will come to Jesi to present their companies and products with a guided tasting session. At other times the Students will travel to various Regions and visit the producers on site. The work done on the weekends is very important because it is the most direct way for the Students to learn about the products, how to use them, where to find them in their place of origin and how to introduce them in a future workplace.

Collective discussion The daily teaching program is reviewed and eventual variations on the base dish discussed, proposed or critiqued. Every day several

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n the 15th century the historical center of Jesi went though a phase of great development. Right in the heart of the old city, near the beautiful Palazzo della Signoria, is the Palazzo Balleani, a building that belonged to a family who owned a large amount of land outside of the town walls. All the great land-owning families had large cellars beneath their homes where they gathered grapes to make their supply of wine for the winter. Palazzo Balleani, where our School is located, also houses the Regional Enoteca (Wine-Cellar) of Jesi. This Enoteca is managed by Assivip, an association of wine producers who organize wine tasting courses. Not only do they present wine, but also other high-quality products from local producers: extra virgin olive oil, cheeses, salami, pasta. On Mondays the Enoteca is available to our School, where we hold our themed courses on wine, olive oil, bread, salumi and cheese. The collaboration with the Enoteca continues on Friday evenings with the conclusion of the teaching program of the week. Our School is open to the public for an evening of tasting with a presentation of the dishes studied during the week. 17


Programmi di cucina regionale PIEMONTE

PUGLIA

TOSCANA

CALABRIA

FRIULI

Vitello della razza piemontese: l’insalata di carne cruda, il vitello tonnato, il bollito misto, il brasato al barolo. La cucina di pianura: grano, patata e riso. Tajarin, agnolotti, gnocchi. La cucina di montagna. Le verdure. La bagna caoda. Formaggi e dolci.

Il grano per il pane e la pasta. Il grano arso ed il grano stumpato. Orecchiette e cavatelli. Legumi e verdure: cime di rapa e lampascioni. Latticini: fiordilatte, provola, scamorza, burrata. Formaggi: caciocavallo e canestrato.

La cucina rustica: panzanella e fettunta, acquacotta, pappa al pomodoro e ribollita. Le carni: vitello e maiale. La fiorentina ed i salumi. Sughi di carne e crostini. La cucina rinascimentale: anatra alla frutta, piccione alle mandorle, il biancomangiare con cioccolata calda aromatizzata alle spezie.

Paste tradizionali e carni: tonnarelli, scilatelle, lagane e ceci, a tiana, u morzheddu. Le verdure, le erbe, le spezie: cottura sotto la cenere, conservazione sott’olio. Il mare: tonno e pesce spada. Le minoranze etniche: albanesi, occitani e grecani.

La tradizione ebraica e l’oca come alternativa al maiale. I vari modi di preparazione: il fegato grasso, i ciccioli d’oca, oca arrosto all’antica. Il pesce: la trota nelle sue preparazioni tradizionali e moderne. L’anatra. Il prosciutto di San Daniele.

EMILIA ROMAGNA Pasta all’uovo e paste ripiene. I vari formati: tagliatelle, tagliolini, tortellini di Bologna, cappelletti di Ferrara, anolini di Parma. Pasta al forno: lasagne e cannelloni.

MARCHE La cucina della costa: il brodetto di pesce, stoccafisso all’anconetana. La cucina di collina: farro, lenticchia e cicerchia. Vincisgrassi, stracciatella e passatelli. Il coniglio in porchetta. I formaggi ed il tartufo. 18

CAMPANIA La pasta e la cucina della domenica: ziti al ragù, paccheri alla genovese, il sartù di riso, il timballo. Legumi e verdure: minestra di broccoli, minestra maritata, fagioli alla maruzzara. Le carni: panzetta di agnello, costine con papacelle, coniglio all’Ischitana. Il pesce ed i frutti di mare.

LOMBARDIA Il riso: storia, varietà, metodi di cottura. Risotto alla milanese, risotto alla pilota, risotto al radicchio, risotto al vino rosso, risotto con il pesce fritto. La pasta: tortelli di zucca alla mantovana, pizzoccheri della Valtellina. Analisi comparata di cottura di pasta secca.

UMBRIA Gli antipasti: bruschette, crostini e pizze. Le zuppe rustiche: minestra di ceci, di farro e di fagioli. La pasta: tagliolini, quadrucci, umbrichelli. Il tartufo nero di Norcia e di Spoleto. La porchetta e le carni grigliate.

ABRUZZO VENETO Il baccalà: alla vicentina, alla veneziana, mantecato. La polenta e la pasta: i bigoi in salsa. Le verdure: radicchio rosso di Treviso, variegato di Castelfranco, gli asparagi. Cucina tradizionale veneta: il saor. La gallina padovana e la polverara.

Piatti tradizionali con l’agnello: agnello con le erbe, ragù d’agnello, minestra d’agnello con lo zafferano, agnello cac ’e ove, cosciotto d’agnello in porchetta. La pasta fresca: i maccheroncini alla chitarra, gli anellini alla pecoraia, la pasta del mugnaio, tacconi con ceci e baccalà, cordicelle mezz’acqua e mezz’ove con sugo di ventricina.

TRENTINO Le minestre: orzetto, brò brusà, canederli. Gli gnocchi e gli strangolapreti. I salumi: la lucanica e la carne salada. Le carni: tonco de pontesel, cervo e capriolo. I funghi e i frutti di bosco. I formaggi di malga. La mela trentina.

SICILIA L’influenza araba. Il pesce marinato, il couscous, la caponata e preparazioni in agro-dolce. Legumi e formaggi. Timballo e ravioli di ricotta, coniglio alla stemperata. I dolci: la cassata, i cannoli, i sorbetti e le granite. 19


La Pasta U

n mondo ricco e misterioso, pieno di tradizioni secolari e di segreti custoditi gelosamente. E quando qualcuno in giro per il mondo vorrebbe imporre una dieta senza pasta gli italiani si arrabbiano. I nostri studenti l'hanno capito subito. Who invented pasta? We don't know for sure, but Italians have been eating pasta for two thousand years. Water and flour are the two main ingredients but then from there imagination and passion for food take over. Just think of how much creativity has been unleashed over the centuries. In each region, in different ways, depending on the environment, on the conditions of poverty or wealth of the family, on changing tastes, a thousand shapes, a thousand sauces, a thousand flavors have evolved. In the Veneto region they invented a small press to use in the home and produce “bigoli”, in Abruzzo they use a “guitar” box to cut their guitar-string pasta, in Calabria they use a knitting needle to roll the “scilatelle” and in Puglia they make “orecchiette” with their finger tips. Then we can ask ourselves, do we make pasta with or without egg? Filled like “ravioli” or simply cut like “tagliatelle”? With a 20

rich sauce like “lasagne” or humble like the “maltagliati”, served with beans? Long like “spaghetti” or short like the “paccheri”? Do you prefer a red sauce or one without any tomato? Finally, lets talk about the cooking and on this topic there have been endless volumes written and cultural associations founded. By now you will have understood that to enter into the world of pasta means to enter into a rich and mysterious world where there is always something new to learn and where each Chef jealously guards his own secrets. And perhaps, you will also understand why Italians become so irate when someone, somewhere in the world, tries to suggest taking pasta out of our diet!

Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia Denominazione di Origine Protetta GARANTITO DAL MINISTERO DELLE POLITICHE AGRICOLE E FORESTALI AI SENSI DELL’ ARTICOLO 10 DEL REG. CEE 2081/92

Prodotto disciplinato dal D.M. 3/3/1987 e da Regolamento della Comunità Europea n°813 / 2000 del 17/4/2000 che sanciscono tra l’ altro : “ …Si ottiene tramite la fermentazione zuccherina e acetica di mosto cotto, previo ottimale invecchiamento in ogni caso NON INFERIORE a 12 ANNI” ..” E’ consentito utilizzare la qualifica EXTRA VECCHIO nella presentazione del prodotto che abbia avuto un invecchiamento NON INFERIORE AI 25 ANNI”

Per informazioni telefonare a: Consorzio fra produttori di Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia tel e fax 0039 / 0522/ 796294 www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it e-mail abtre@re.camcom.it


T

ast

y e o f It al

The authentic San Marzano tomato The tomato is probably the most common ingredient in Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. However, it isn’t enough to simply say “tomato” because there are so many different varieties, not to mention the dozens of hybrids and crossbreeds. We, however wish to speak of the famous San Marzano, the tomato which has always been used in its peeled, canned version. Oblong in shape, with fleshy pulp and few seeds, it is harvested ripe; the thin outer skin is removed and it is then canned. Is that all? Not quite. The majority of San Marzano tomatoes on the market today are actually hybrids, obtained from years of cross-breeding. Nevertheless, the old-fashioned, original San Marzano is now making a come-back, thanks to seed selection and the work of a few farmers, along with Slow Food and is Presidium program which sustains and promotes

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the renewed production. The authentic San Marzano tomato is a very delicate product; it must be picked when fully ripe and this means going back over the same plant several times, going out at the end of a sunny day, ideally, at sunset. The fruits are washed and then canned, with no preservatives added. This guarantees a good product which will conserve all of the flavors of the garden and the aroma of a fresh-picked tomato. Its sweetness and slight acid note will come out when used in the kitchen, either on a pizza or even better, on a dish of pasta. It used to be, in the past, that sauces and ragus were cooked for hours and hours. Nowadays, the opposite is true; people prefer light, quick cooking and this is the reason why the tomato itself must be of excellent quality.

SOLANIA s.r.l Via Provinciale, 36 84010 SAN VALENTINO TORIO (SA) - ITALY Tel. +39 081 937 1027 - Fax +39 081 937 1889 www.solaniasrl.it - email: info@solaniasrl.it


Amazing Friuli Hospitality Judith Singler

W

hat an amazing trip we have had. The first word that comes to mind is hospitality, a most genuine, sincere, pleasure in sharing the wine, the food and simply the beautiful countryside. Thursday morning we were up at 6 a.m., ready for our bus ride north. At around 11:30 we rolled into our first stop in Friuli. Now picture this: after five and a half hours of winding around and around on country roads that rolled over the spring countryside, we pile out of the bus and find that we have landed in a gorgeous vineyard. The sun is shining, the sky is blue and that yellow house right over there is the last house in Italy. We are literally a stone's throw from the Slovenia border. Mr. Edi Keber gave us a brief history of the area and then we started our tour of the vineyard, where we were encouraged to feel the strange soil. Il looks like shale until you pick it up and it literally crumbles in your hand. Then we moved on to his impressive cantina, part of which was an old stone pozzo (well) and here he regaled us with stories of his treasured moulds, the muffa which makes it special. Who can resist that yeasty smell of a dank cantina? Not I. There followed a wine tasting 24

lunch that was simple and wonderful. We started with the Tokai which is a light, fresh, summery wine. Then on to the more complex Collio which is a blended white wine. Along with this came home baked breads, cheeses, local salumi and a delicious soup made with barley. And then it was time to move on. We looped around some more roads, crossing right near the Slovenia border with our cell phones picking up the Slovene network, and headed to La Subida where the cooking part of our day would begin. La Subida calls itself a “trattoria” but don't be fooled, it is very fine dining. Nestled down in the

woods, it is the very definition of bucolic. Just inside the front door, there was a large and welcome fire in the fireplace and a huge pot of boiling water hanging there. Within moments we were being given instructions on polenta making. The large cast iron pot had a metal paddle in it that was attached to a crank. Corn meal was poured into the boiling water as the crank turned the paddle to keep stirring the polenta. We were served some delicious hot coffee and then ushered downstairs to begin our Friulian cooking lesson. It had been arranged to have four chefs come to demonstrate

their cooking. The first chef deftly boned an entire goose in under three minutes - the guy was amazing! Chunks of goose meat were seared and a sauce begun. When the fireplace polenta was ready it was served to us on a thick round board and “cut” into portions with string. This polenta was chewy, fireplacesmoky and absolutely delicious. At this point the goose was done in a luscious red sauce and we had our spoons all ready! Our next chef could be defined “a magician with herbs”, for a more convivial, warm, lively guide to herbs and Friuli you could not find. Her restaurant is called “Sale e Pepe. La Cucina d'Teresa”. She has an amazing way of balancing flavors. We had another polenta, this time a “black”, rough-cut polenta served with grated fresh horseradish and grated apple. It was superb. Then came a tasty herb frittata, in a savory version and a sweet version. Most of the dishes were sampled outdoors, under the budding tree, overlooking the horse barn, the flowering rosemary and the sun-dappled tennis court. Bliss! Then we were invited to dinner. Can you imagine, after all we had tasted and sampled, it was now dinner time? In the private residence of the proprietor, no less. So up the stairs we went, onto a magnificent outdoor porch overlooking this picture

perfect countryside. Here began an amazing, amazing feast which opened with delicious fricò fried cheese treats, thinlysliced prosciutto and large white asparagus with a spiral crust, all accompanied by a delightful Collio. Truly, we felt as if we had died and gone to chef heaven. The dinner then began in earnest and I honestly lost count of the courses. With each course came a new wine to taste. Somewhere among some fantastic venison and succulent roast pork there was a honeysuckle sorbetto intermezzo that was the embodiment of that delicate flower. There was a tortello nut-filled dessert, a sort of wanton, herb-filled fried ravioli resting on a whipped honeysuckle cream served with two dessert wines. We were all just overwhelmed with the generosity of our hosts. And then the

parting “goody bags” filled with grappa, goose paté, goose prosciutto, cheeses - all made for a stunning, stunning evening. The next morning we were watching Adriatic scampi and clams being pulverized into fragments the size of the risotto grains they were joining in the pan. We were shown the intricacies of making a particular pepper brodetto with Gilt-head orata that was completely and totally divine. We nearly licked the pot clean. The next chef made some more polenta, this time with a luscious rich sauce of local cheeses. And on and on it went… until it was time to leave our most generous host at La Subida and go to taste some wine. My notes get a little fuzzy here after a few cantinas: Collavini, Polencic, Pascolo… all memorable experiences. Then just as we groaned at the idea of another cantina, we pulled into Skok. Here is a name to watch. The vineyard is run by a young couple who currently have a very small production of only 3,000 bottles. But, the wine is simply outstanding. I can honestly say that, for me, this was the best red wine of the trip: a lovely Merlot. And here again, our hosts were charming, with yummy “nibbles” and sausages, adorable dogs and beautiful gardens to enjoy. This was truly an amazing trip from start to finish; a part of the world worth exploring. 25


Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Un vino rosso molto particolare, con profumi di rosa Un vino fatto rinascere dall’Azienda di Stefano Mancinelli

Azienda Agricola STEFANO MANCINELLI Via Roma 62 Morro D’Alba (AN) TEL 0731-63021 FAX 0731-63521 E-MAIL manvin@tin.it

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Morro d’Alba, a small hill town enclosed in ancient walls, lies just a few kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, nestled in the heart of the Marche, not far from Jesi which is known as Verdicchio country. For centuries the Lacrima vine has been cultivated on the beautiful hillsides of Morro and in the surrounding countryside. This wine has always been considered wine to be drunk early, its heady bouquet spilling out of the casks as early as the beginning of November to celebrate the Feast Day of St. Martin and which goes so well with roasted chestnuts. There followed then a long period of decline, when the vines were uprooted and the rootstock came very near to extinction. It was the Mancinelli winery which took this indigenous vine and began to experiment with new winemaking techniques and

a g e i n g methods and which then proposed new versions of the wine, spanning the gamut from a passito to a grappa. We have mentioned that it is an unusual wine; from the very first sip, some forsake it but many fall in love with it forever. It is a wine to become acquainted with because its character and originality speak of a territory. Purplish hues, low tannins, a surprising aromatic intensity and a rich palate of red fruits. Generally is is drunk young, but can also be aged for a few years. Stefano Mancinelli uses only the grapes from his own vineyards for winemaking. He is ever looking towards the future and constantly experimenting because he is convinced that his Lacrima holds great and yet unexpressed potential. His business includes an olive oil mill and the oil with the Mancinelli label has always been of excellent quality. In the past decade a distillery (the first in the region) has also been added.


SAPS is a non-profit cultural association, a research center dedicated to supplying information to chefs, students of Hotel Management Schools and even amateurs who wish to learn more about cooking utensils, like pots and pans. It is important to know their shape and the materials with which they are made, how they are conceived and what characteristics they must have for optimal results in the kitchen. The SAPS’s facilities consist of a study and research area with a professionally equipped kitchen as well as a dining hall which seats over 60 guests. Moreover there is also a very special historical museum dedicated to cooking vessels and implements which faithfully reproduces an early 1900’s workshop with original antique machines and period pieces. The association offers courses which are part theory, on history and correct usage of kitchen implements and part practical, taught by its own highly qualified teachers: Federico Coria and Giuseppe Maffioli. It was the aim of its founders that SAPS safeguard and pass on its rich heritage of know-how on the subject of cooking utensils and become a place to meet, to have fun, to learn, available to all cooking enthusiasts who care about the culinary arts, the rich traditions of gastronomy and the pleasures of “eating well”.

www.sapsitalia.com info@sapsitalia.com

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To Convivium Leaders Dear friends, Our School began its first courses at the beginning of 2003 and is enjoying great success. In Jesi, a town in the Marches Region of central Italy, the courses are in full swing and we can foresee having as many as fifty foreign chefs graduate each year with the “Slow Food- Master Italian Cooking” Diploma. Our Master’s Course requires an intense amount of study and hard work from our Students who also learn about numerous producers and their products in the search for the authentic roots of Italian regional cooking. With this new initiative, Slow Food Italy aims to give valid support to professional chefs from abroad who wish to learn about Italian cooking in a thorough way, focusing on each region. Italy is a country in which the recipes are strongly linked to the traditions, history and people. It is because of the differences between regions that Italian cuisine is so rich and varied. This Slow Food cooking course in Italy will also allow new contacts to be made at an international level and will continue to expand in the future at the University of Pollenzo. To all of you, dear Convivium Leaders, we send you this message along with the names and addresses of those who represent and follow our organizational activities and who can be contacted for further information.

United States of America: Francesco Tonelli Consulting & Digital Food Photography 46 Riverview- Port Ewen 12466-5104 New York, NY USA francesco@francescotonelli.com

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Japan: Rieko Uchiyama HIDE UCHIYAMA Ltd 2-13-22 Shìmouma, Setagaya-ku Tokyo-JAPAN info@jps.it

Nederland: Stevin Van Laatum Westerdoksdijk t/o 20 1013 AE Amsterdam stevinvanlaatum@wanadoo.nl

Australia: Michele Usci P.O Box 211 Bullen 3105 Victoria-Australia usci@optusnet.com.au

Canada: Mara Jernigan Fairburn Farm 3310 Jackson Road Duncan B.C. V9L 6N7 Tel. (01) 250.743-4267 Fax (01) 250.743-8367 fairburnfarm@telus.net


che

An i de

a of t h e M ar

Rosso Conero Wine

Un vino rosso che nasce attorno a uno splendido promontorio, sul mare. Vigneti curatissimi tra campi di lavanda ed oliveti, accanto a un parco naturale dove cresce una macchia mediterranea secolare. Monte Conero is a promontory which rises 572 meters above sea level in the mid-section of the Adriatic Sea, just south of Ancona, and which juts right out to the sea. It is one of the most beautiful natural parks in Italy, a marvellous green lung which still is the natural habitat of an infinite variety of Mediterranean flora and fauna, attracting travellers and tourists from every country of the world to its breathtaking landscapes. For centuries, on the slopes of this mountain which falls abruptly to the sea below, vineyards dedicated to Montepulciano grapes in particular, have been cultivated here. In recent decades, winegrowing has become ever more specialized and several winemakers have produced a red wine which is both strong and

32

smooth, highly sought after on the domestic market as well as abroad. It is the Rosso Conero. Here in this growing area, the microclimate is unique in that the nearby presence of the sea tempers the extreme temperatures that characterize this land in the winter months and protects the vineyards from the blasts of frigid wind that sweep down from the North-East. The soil is calcareous and it is this feature which allows the Montepulciano vine a subtlety of expression impossible to find elsewhere. Thus, it is understandable how, in this case, the terroir is more important than the technique. Because of their position, either clinging to steep ridges or filing down softer inclines, exposed daily to the gentle sea breezes, the vines yield fruit of singular quality which become wines that are of an intense violet-red

color when young to become a deep garnet-red when mature, with a taste which is full, dry and tannic and with a good structure. Generally, the wine is left to mature for over a year in stainless steel or wood and for over two years in the Riserva version. Rosso Conero goes very nicely with succulent foods and firstcourse pasta dishes with red sauces (particularly suitable for typical local dishes such as Vincesgrassi or Stoccafisso all'Anconetana). A more aged version that is more rounded is paired well with red meats.


Half a teaspoon of Varnelli in an espresso coffee or in barley coffee: this is the most widespread and traditional way to enjoy Varnelli. A habit, that of "caffe al Varnelli", which originated in the hinterland of The Marches (production zone) and gradually spread throughout Italy and also abroad as the company enlarged its zone of commercial influence. In fact, Varnelli is the ideal addition to espresso coffee and barley, the only one that does not alter their taste but completes it, making them better. Varnelli is not sweet, but dry and its fresh and intense flavour makes small amounts of it sufficient to give more flavour even to the best coffee. The moderate amount makes it economical and with a bottle of Varnelli many "additions" can be made. Therefore it's a product that "makes" and qualifies its user.

VARNELLI PARFAIT

PARFAIT AL “VARNELLI”

Ingredients: 1 liter whipping cream 8 whole eggs 300g sugar Varnelli, to taste

Ingredienti: 1 litro di panna da montare 8 uova intere 300g zucchero Varnelli a piacere

Preparation: Use rectangular stainless steel moulds and line them with aluminum foil. Whip the cream and keep refrigerated. Separate the eggs and beat the egg whites with the sugar to stiff peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the beaten egg whites, add the Varnelli and the egg yolks, blend gently and pour into the moulds. Place in the freezer for several hours and slice to serve; garnish with chocolate shavings.

Preparazione: Prendete degli stampi d’acciaio rettangolari e foderateli di carta stagnola. Montate la panna e tenetela in frigo. Rompete le uova, mettete i rossi da parte e montate i bianchi a neve ferma con lo zucchero. Mescolate la panna montata coi bianchi montati, aggiungete il Varnelli e i rossi d’uovo; mescolate il tutto e versate negli stampi. Mettete in freezer per qualche ora e poi servite a fette con scaglie di cioccolato.

(Beppe Barbero - Piemonte)


A course designed to teach the taste of Italy, region by region. A course reserved for chefs from all over the world who prepare Italian food. A course that looks at the historical roots of the regional cooking of Italy: from the Alps to the Mediterranean and from the Tyrrhenian to the Adriatic Sea. A course to know the producers of quality food (pasta, wine, cheese, olive oil, meat products...) and the gastronomic culture of each region. A diploma that requires hard work and study, with the chance to do a specialty internship in one or several Regions at the end of the Course.

Italcook Magazine N. 6  

Italcook Magazine N. 6

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