Page 1

Slow Food Master Italian Cooking News, no. 1, year III, Giugno 2004




M aste r

d king

Fo o

ow l S

lia n


- news 2004


Energia. Piacere. Respira.

Elica Collection. Concave.

è essenziale proprio come

Benessere. Immagina di

Perché non è una cappa

l'aria. Ed è tutto più puro,

andare oltre. Oltre

da cucina. È un'altra vita.

più armonioso, più

l'efficienza. Oltre il design.

Una vita in cui la qualità

perfetto. Anche le emozioni.

La Nuova Agenzia di Michael Göttsche.

w w w. e l i c a . c o m

numero verde 800.23.11.22



Master Italian Cooking News MAGAZINE OF THE ISTITUTO SUPERIORE DI GASTRONOMIA Editorial Director Gianfranco Mancini Editorial Staff Paolo Bellini, Stefania Cavallini, Cingolani Alessio, Concas Angelo, Anna Maria D’Eusanio, Alberto Fabbri, Armando Gambera, Carlo Gazzarrini, Marisa Gigliotti, Piergiorgio Oliveti, Francesco Pensovecchio, Federico Piemonte, Pasquale Porcelli, Vito Puglia, Gilberto Venturini. Editorial Co-ordination Arduino Tassi Translations Martha Huber Scavone

Educate the palate? Yes, and the head, too. Gianfranco Mancini


Work in the kitchen


Two of our students share their impressions


La burrata


Sagrantino di Montefalco Wine and the Caprai Estates


Taste of Italy: Lake Trasimeno Bean


General Program


Weekly Work Plan


Regional dishes: Traditional Canederli in broth


The Triunph of Herbs


Learning continues in every region of Italy


Graphics and page layout GEI Gruppo Editoriale Informazione Elisabetta Carletti

Diploma night


Printing Arti Grafiche Jesine - Jesi

Plunge into an ocean of chocolate


To Convivium Leaders


A different breed of cattle


Advertising and administration Associazione Ital. Cook. via F. Conti n. 5 – 60035 JESI (AN) Italy Tel. ++39.0731.56400 Fax ++39.0731.221224 Web: E.mail: Recorded in the Tribunal of Ancona no. 433/02, 22.02.2002 Editor-in-chief: Dino Mogianesi

ASSOCIAZIONE ITAL.COOK. Founded by Slow Food and the Town Council of Jesi Board of Directors Nicola Silveri, Giovanni Mancia, Simona Romagnoli. Reviser Board Giuliano Cerioni, Sergio Moretti, Sabrina Rotatori.

Cover: Natura morta con pesci, cipolle novelle, sporta con rape e sporta piccola con pesci Sebastiano Ceccarini (Fano, 1703-1783)


Educate the palate? Yes, and the head, too Every time we talk about food we should remember that mankind is divided into two parts in this world. We are on one side, part of the rich and even opulent society for whom the approach to food is almost a philosophic exercise in taste and in some cases, an aesthetic gesture. On the other side there are those who make up better than half the world population and who wake up each morning not knowing if they will find enough food to eat that day. We like to talk about taste and it is a good thing that we go to restaurants, that we learn from famous chefs, that we perfect our sensorial capabilities but we must never forget that other half of the world. We must not forget that the future of food will also depend on systems of production that will be adapted to or perhaps imposed on the less developed countries. We say this from the standpoint of people working in a school of Italian cooking, very much part of that world where the problem is no longer hunger but rather, obesity and over-eating. This is becoming a topic of debate which concerns governments and health authorities, and both are working to combat this issue. There is no denying


it, we eat too much and, almost always, eat poorly! So then people open gyms and fitness centers and we all run to slim down our bellies and hips and tone our muscles, trying to keep our body shape within the limits of decency. And what about diets? Doctors and dieticians also try to carve out a piece of the action for themselves by promoting a diet and open specialized centers and make money. The food industry presents another facet, ever more controlled by a handful of players monopolystyle, guaranteeing sales and income by using publicity to bombard children and adults, families and entire populations, without any limit whatsoever, either of law or common sense. When you take a close look, it isn’t a pretty picture and the world seems decidedly askew. Within our Slow Food Movement we had started, a few year back, to define this state of affairs as a condition of “The Flood” in the biblical sense. An exaggeration? I do not think so. And this School, our Master Italian Cooking, aims

to provide answers to those who have come to the bitter awareness that the future of food could hold unpleasant surprises for everyone. Italy has the good fortune of being in an excellent geographic position and of having exceptionally good natural products, rich in taste and widely varied in flavour. On this natural inheritance an enviable gastronomic wealth and great tradition has been built over the centuries. The Master’s candidates, no matter where they come from, are immediately aware of this difference and gradually, almost unconsciously, they immerse themselves in an ocean of everchanging taste sensations. Week after week they discover that behind every regional tradition there lies the reality of herbs, fruit, condiments, cheeses, meats and salumi that are truly unique. And yet, while we work at the stove and as we sample and discuss different tastes we cannot and must not forget the world we are in, where we came from and where we are going. Educating the palate is fine, but we must also use our head. The Director Gianfranco Mancini

School of Italian Regional Cooking

Palazzo Balleani • Jesi • Italia 3

Work in the kitchen If

you were little gnats and could hover around a chef during a day’s work in the kitchen, you would understand how he moves, how he thinks and how he uses his senses. A little (bit) of a philosopher and a little artist, the best chef brings complexity into harmony and exalts simplicity.



time for work in the kitchen is the most important part of a lesson. A chef’s thoughts are always running along the lines of concrete experience, of which ingredients to use, of the dish that is coming into being. In the kitchen, aromas and tastes are not abstract concepts, but rather concrete elements that belong to the food that is on the plate.


aking pasta is an art. Each region in Italy has different kinds of pasta. Water and flour alone? Or should we also add egg? Do you want to use a small torque like they do in Veneto or a chitarra like they do in Abruzzo?


romatic herbs: here lies the future of food culture and the future, in many respects, is a return to the past. Fewer fats, fewer meats, less protein in our diet. And flavour is added with aromatic herbs: the most intense aromas already exist in nature. How lucky the chef who knows how to use aromatic herbs!


ontent comes before form. Goodness and freshness of the ingredients come first and foremost. Then the chef will call on his sensitivity to create an eye-pleasing form to delight the diner.


Two of our students share their impressions

open to teaching us and preparing it with us. I am looking forward to the next weeks and I know a busy time awaits us as many of the weekends are also full, spent outside of Jesi, visiting producers in other areas (oil mills, wineries, dairies, etc.).

Joao Bellini 30 years old, from Brasil

I have worked in hotels and restaurants for five years and have also taught at three universities in my country. I decided to apply to the School of Italian Cooking in Jesi for several reasons: specifically to Stevin Van Laatum 41 years old, from Holland

I’ve been working in this field for twenty-four years and for the last five years, have been particularly interested in Italian cooking. I’ve been a member of the International Slow Food Movement since 1998 and in 2000 I first heard about the School of Italian Cooking at the Salone del Gusto event in Turin. I would have liked to sign up immediately, but unfortunately I couldn’t leave my work commitments and so I had to wait four more years. Now I am finally here and this is first time that I’m actually enjoying studying and going to school!


I hope to learn as much as possible regarding the “how” and “why” of Italian food culture. After just a few weeks, I can say that it is much more than I expected. The chefs change continually as they all come from the specific region being taught and they are all very knowledgeable. In addition, the staff working inside the school help us much more than what would be normal. The program is rich and varied, very stimulating and presented in such a way as to allow us to gain a deep understanding. Often we get to know particular products, practically unknown elsewhere, with distinguishing tastes, that Slow Food has worked to safeguard through the institution of “Presidia”. Also, if one of us is especially interested in a certain dish the chefs are very

get to know regional Italian cooking, learn new techniques and become familiar with the Slow Food philosophy so as to apply it in Brasil. By now we are better than halfway through the course and my experience has been very gratifying. Seeing that this School bases its teaching on regional products that always arrive fresh, on chefs that come from the different regions each week, bringing their typical specialties with them, is already a lesson in itself. Another important aspect, and here they all insist on this, is respect for the seasonality of the products. These are essential principles for someone who wants to work in a kitchen, people often talk about these things, but one must live by

and practice these rules to fully understand how it can change our thinking. The weeks go by quickly but the impressions of Puglia, Campania and Emilia Romagna are wellengrained in my memory and part of the reason is that the chefs spend time with us, live with us and often impart lessons in life as well as cooking. As soon as we have completed the Master, I hope to deepen my knowledge of some aspects of regional cooking; I will remain in Italy for several more months and I am particularly interested in anything that concerns fish. I am looking forward to the time when I’ll return to my country with the hope of being able to transmit this experience to others and share the tastes of these dishes with my clients.

Italian language courses for Ital.Cook. students Courses held at The British Centre A – INTENSIVE COURSE


(before the Master’s Course)

(during the Master’s Course)

- Minimum duration: 1 month - 3 hours per day (2 hours in the morning/1 hour in the afternoon) - 15 hours per week, Monday through Friday only - Ital.Cook makes available an apartment with kitchen priviledges, food not included - Cost: € 1.200,00 per person

- Duration: 1 month or more - 3 hours per week - 1 hour per day, from 7 to 8 p.m., Monday through Friday. - Cost: € 300,00 per month, per person.



La burrata Paolo Costantini


uglia is a region which could be defined, in terms of nature’s bounty, as astronomically rich, its wealth comprised of fish, vegetables, olive oil, wine. And cheese. Of the lovely array of cheeses, perhaps the most representative is the Cacioricotta, bearing similarities to both ricotta and to

goat’s milk cheese. Also worthy of mention are the Canestrato, Caciocavallo podalico, Fiordilatte and Scamorza. Whether fresh or aged, made from raw milk or pasteurized, from cow’s milk or sheep’s milk, the variety of cheeses and dairy products coming from both small artisanal dairies or large industrial plants is seemingly endless in this generous land.


La Burrata is a typical specialty of Puglia, born of a simple but brilliant idea. About seventy years ago on a farm in the area near Castel del Monte, Lorenzo Chieppa created a sort of flask made from string mozzarella-like cheese and he filled it with creamy whey and strings of milky mozzarella (the “stracciatella” – “shreds”). Once this mouth-watering combination was prepared, the sacklike flask was tied securely shut and immersed, first in scalding hot water and then in cold running water to make it become firm. Today as in the past, the technique remains unchanged. The process is completed with a brief soaking in a salt brine and then the last phase allows for the excess moisture to drip off. At this point, the burrata is ready to eat. Traditionally, it is wrapped in asphodel leaves. Although this product is made throughout the entire province of Bari, the quality of the burrata from Andria is generally recognized as unequivocally superior.

Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia Denominazione di Origine Protetta GARANTITO DAL MINISTERO DELLE POLITICHE AGRICOLE E FORESTALI AI SENSI DELL’ ARTICOLO 10 DEL REG. CEE 2081/92

Prodotto disciplinato dal D.M. 3/3/1987 e da Regolamento della Comunità Europea n°813 / 2000 del 17/4/2000 che sanciscono tra l’ altro : “ …Si ottiene tramite la fermentazione zuccherina e acetica di mosto cotto, previo ottimale invecchiamento in ogni caso NON INFERIORE a 12 ANNI” ..” E’ consentito utilizzare la qualifica EXTRA VECCHIO nella presentazione del prodotto che abbia avuto un invecchiamento NON INFERIORE AI 25 ANNI”

Per informazioni telefonare a: Consorzio fra produttori di Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia tel e fax 0039 / 0522/ 796294 e-mail

Sagrantino di Montefalco Wine and the Caprai Estates

managerial style would place it among Italy’s best in just a few years. “It’s close to Perugia... It’s near Torgiano... We make red wines... We have a grape called Sagrantino... Not just sweet wines…”. In the late Eighties it was an arduous task to explain to

the right kinds of wood and the perfect ageing. Following a parallel path, the quality of the wine steadily increased and in 1996, to celebrate the winery’s first Jubilee, the 1993 Selection of Montefalco Sagrantino 25 Anni was bottled and it immediately won the

the world where Montefalco was and convince people of the potential the area held. And yet, just over twenty years of age, Marco Caprai did just that, with incredible grit and determination. From day one, Marco started working on an experimentation and research program, having very definite goals in mind. His objective was to produce a great wine that would be the very expression of the Montefalco area using the Sagrantino, the vine that would symbolize this territory because it is found only here. He began then, continuing to this day, to collaborate with oenologist Attilio Pagli and with Prof. Valenti from the University of Milano. Starting in 1991 the Caprai Estates undertook a major task of huge proportions for technological modernization, expansion, experimentation, buying new vineyards, studying old and new clones, zoning. Research is ongoing to find the best growing methods, the best clones, the most appropriate fermentations,

“Three Glasses” classification for the Wine Guide Vini d’Italia. Thus, a legend was born and a label sanctioned. Pure power, along with elegance, clean fruitiness and phenomenal ageing potential – these were the features of this wine, characteristics destined to repeat themselves harvest after harvest. The consistently high quality of each year the 25 Anni was produced has given it an enviable position among many of the most famous Italian wines. Looking at the years 1993, 1995 or the recent 2000 which were all particularly good in terms of climate, we can define those wines as nothing less than sensational. The “Collepiano”, with the same denomination, is a beautiful wine also, barely inferior to the Selection, whereas the Passito, sold in 375ml bottles, is a wine that deftly combines the force and the richness of the grape with a concentration and sophistication which puts it, without a doubt, in the well-deserved category of “meditation wine”.

The Grapevine, the Wine and its History

The Grapevine, the Wine and its History The Sagrantino grapevine has been cultivated in the Montefalco area ever since Antiquity. Some believe that it derives from the Itriola grape, as described by Pliny the Elder and other theories abound as to its origins. However, it can be said with certainty that the Sagrantino vine is at least four hundred years old and in fact, was first mentioned in a 1598 historical document. In the past, cultivation was not widespread and actually, quite limited because it is a difficult, low-yield variety. The grape is small, has a thick skin, and grows in small bunches. However, it is rich in color, tannins, acids, extract and sugars. It is these very characteristics which made it a little-used grape in the past. The powerful phenol content combined with an archaic vinification process made the wine overly aggressive and bitter. On the other hand, its thick skin was suitable for prolonged, gradual drying and therefore, wine-making allowed for this drying process for the production of a wine with a considerable residual sugar content. The sensation of sweetness tempered the roughness and bitterness of the tannins.


Now, thanks to modern winemaking techniques, the Montefalco Sagrantino (or Sagrantino di Montefalco) is enjoying a second youth; it is a DOCG wine produced with 100% Sagrantino grapes and made the same way as any other dry red wine. It is of an intense red, tannic and very powerful, easily going over 13% alcohol by volume - the perfect accompaniment to game meats and especially flavorful dishes.

The Wine and the Winery Very few vineyards and wineries in Italy can boast a history and reputation which make the history of a territory that are anywhere near comparable to that of the Caprai-Val di Maggio in the area of Montefalco. It was a closely tied connection, intricately woven in a relatively brief period of time, which gave rise to an estate, a wine, a new denomination of origin.

But just how did it all come about? In 1971 Arnaldo Caprai, successful entrepreneur in the textile industry, decided to purchase 45 hectares of land in the area of Montefalco, following a lifetime dream of founding a wine-growing estate and winery to produce a top quality wine. The first years were difficult, seeing as the name Sagrantino, which identified both wine and grapevine, was archaic and known only locally and thus, anything but famous. It was still being grown, yes, but few knew it well and no grower had been able to bring it to the attention of the world of oenology. It was one of many glorious names which, although part of the Italian tradition and history of wine-making, was practically forgotten and the few wineries that were still making it chose the route of a sweet wine for tourists and for the local market. The turning point came in 1988 when Marco Caprai, Amaldo’s son, took charge of the winery and with a modern outlook and

The present day The Caprai holding has grown to a 150-hectare estate, 90 of which are vineyards. All of the newly planted portions have a density of 8,000 vines per hectare which, as historical texts will verify, is the same density as that prevalent in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Similarly, the use of “small woods” is true to the tradition in the area which dates back to the 1500’s, when wine was put into “barriques” or small wooden casks called carrate from the word carro, so called because they were small enough to be transported on carts. The winery uses medium-toasted French barriques; for the 25 Anni 85% new barriques are used and for the Collepiano it is 60%. The primary grape varieties cultivated are Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds and Grechetto and Chardonnay Sauvignon for the whites. In the field of communications, the Web has also been an area where the Caprai Estates have invested considerable time and effort. Their site, is diligently kept up-to-date with all the most current news regarding the winery, its wines and upcoming events. In addition, the wine “Nero Outsider”, made from Pinot Noir grapes, has been the first example in Italy of a wine sold exclusively via Internet.


Lake Trasimeno Bean

Tiny and white, hardly bigger than a grain of rice, tender and buttery. We are talking about a bean, an extraordinary product, on the list of Slow Food Presidia. This little bean grows in certain areas near towns located on the shores of Lake Trasimeno, in Umbria. The cultivar had all but died out because it hasn’t been grown since the fifties. It’s easy to see why the practice was abandoned as the process is long and tiresome and must be done manually, from sowing to harvesting. Furthermore, the beans mature at different rates and therefore harvesting must be done progressively. Imagine what it must be like to go out each morning and bend over each plant to pick only the ripe pods, leaving the others for


another day or week. And when the beans are hulled, only a few meagre kilograms are ever garnered… wouldn’t it be more worthwhile to grow a bean with a higher yield that is easier to grow and harvest? And yet… a few farmers kept right on growing this very bean for their own personal use because it is so tender and thus, thanks to Slow Food, it has been resurrected and is once more in production (seven to eight hundred kilograms per year!). If you should be so lucky as to come across the Trasimeno Lake bean (a word of caution: carefully check that it is not just a similar type) do not miss the opportunity to purchase it. The best way to prepare them? simply boiled and eaten with very little salt and a spoonful of extra virgin olive oil.

General Program Course Dates 2005

Course Dates 2006

7 January - 11 March 22 March - 27 May 7 June - 12 August 4 October - 9 December

7 January - 9 March 22 March - 25 May 7 June - 10 August 4 October - 7 December 13

Il Programma

zione di vino, olio di oliva, pasta, formaggi, salumi tipici e tradizionali selezionati tra i migliori produttori di tutto il territorio nazionale. Nel tempo libero ciascun corsista avrà la possibilità di approfondire le proprie conoscenze con studio individuale presso la biblioteca dell’Istituto. 5 Le lezioni si terranno nei giorni di martedì, mercoledì, giovedì e venerdì, con orario pieno. Dopo una breve presentazione storicogeografico della Regione con le sue tradizioni enogastronomiche e con le sue particolarità ambientali, si passerà allo studio concreto dei piatti tipici del territorio. L’insegnamento non sarà teorico, ma principalmente pratico ed individuale. I docenti e le materie prime provengono dalle singole regioni e cambiano ogni settimana. A volte, il venerdì sera la scuola apre le porte alla città e presenta i piatti più interessanti della settimana. 6 Il sabato e la domenica sono riservati allo studio individuale e alla conoscenza di aziende, produttori, prodotti tipici nei vari settori alimentari. Alcuni produttori verranno direttamente presso la Scuola per presentare i loro prodotti con prova di assaggio, in altri casi gli chef usciranno sul territorio per conoscere le singole aziende e i produttori in tutte le regioni d’Italia. Alcuni fine settimana sono dedicati alla visita delle città d’arte. 7 Il numero massimo di partecipanti è di quindici corsisti, ai quali si garantisce anche vitto e alloggio in appartamenti in palazzi storici, nel centro della città, a pochi passi dalla Scuola. Il costo del corso, compreso vitto e alloggio, divise di lavoro, è di diecimila euro, più duemila euro di iscrizione. 8 Alla fine del corso viene rilasciato ufficialmente un Master con il riconoscimento della Regione Marche e del Ministero del Lavoro.

1 The courses are designed for chefs working outside Italy who wish to widen and improve their knowledge of Italian cuisine. In particular we are addressing cooks who have completed their training and have worked alongside established chefs for some time. Our aim is to provide a wideranging frame of reference with plenty of in-depth detail that will enable cooks to interpret Italian cuisine to the highest standards throughout the world. Those wishing to take this Master's should thus be familiar with basic culinary techniques. 2 The courses are held at the Institute, which is located in Palazzo Balleani, n. 5 via F. Conti in Jesi, a city of 40,000 inhabitants in the central Italian region of the Marche. Each course lasts for ten weeks, and those taking part will all be able to further their experience by specializing for a few months or even a year with restaurants associated with Slow Food throughout Italy. They will thus come into direct contact with restaurateurs specialized in meat or fish dishes, from North to South, comprising a whole range of particular regional specialties. 3 Every week the cuisine of a particular Region of Italy will be the object of a special focus, such that by the end of the course the cooks will be familiar with Italian cooking in its foremost regional expressions: from the traditional rural dishes of Tuscany to the fish preparations of the Adriatic; from the cheeses of Piedmont to the tortellini of Emilia Romagna; from the vegetable dishes of Puglia to the sweets of Sicily; from the cuisine of the Alpine valleys to that of the Mediterranean coast. Italy is a complex mosaic of history and products, dishes and traditions, scents and savors. Every "festa" is indeed a feast, which means a particular dish and a celebration of life. 4 One day a week, preferably Monday, will be devoted to short single-topic courses with tastings of wine, olive oil, pasta, cheese

and cured meats selected from the country's foremost producers. During their free time, the participants will have access to the Institute Library, where they will be able to do more research on subjects of special interest to them. 5 Lessons will be held all day on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Following a brief historical and geographical introduction to the Region, its environmental features and its food and wine heritage, students will move on to the preparation of typical regional dishes. These will be practical, hands-on lessons taught by regional specialists using specific regional ingredients that will change from week to week. On some Fridays the School will open its doors to a select public, presenting the most interesting dishes of the week's endeavor for their evaluation. 6 Saturdays and Sundays will be devoted to individual study and getting to know a wide range of producers and their products. Some producers will present their products at the school, where tasting sessions will also be arranged. Others will welcome chefs to their premises throughout the country for weekend visits. Other weekend activities may include visiting Italy's art cities. 7 Each course will be attended by no more than fifteen participants, who will also receive board and lodging in apartments in the center of the city, not far from the School. The cost of the course, including board, lodging, work uniforms etc. is ten thousand euro, plus two thousand euro registration fee. 8 At the end of the course all participants will receive an official Master's certificate under the aegis of the Marche Region and the Italian Ministry of Labor.

The Program


1 I corsi sono riservati a cuochi che operano all’estero e vogliono acquisire una conoscenza approfondita della cucina italiana. Ci rivolgiamo in particolare a cuochi che abbiano già terminato il loro curriculum scolastico o che abbiano lavorato per qualche tempo accanto ad altri chef di cucina. Noi desideriamo dare una conoscenza ampia e rigorosa, con metodo organico e preciso a coloro che desiderano fare cucina italiana nel mondo in modo professionale. Pertanto chi desidera partecipare al nostro Master deve già conoscere le fondamentali tecniche di lavoro in cucina. 2 I corsi si svolgono presso la sede dell’Istituto in via F. Conti, 5 nel Palazzo Balleani, a Jesi, cittadina di 40.000 abitanti, nelle Marche, nell’Italia Centrale. I corsi hanno una durata di dieci settimane. Tutti coloro che frequenteranno il Master avranno la possibilità di continuare la loro esperienza per alcuni mesi o un anno presso i ristoranti della catena Slow Food in tutt’Italia, da nord a sud, specializzandosi sia in carne che pesce, nelle Regioni che ciascuno preferisce. 3 Ogni settimana viene presentata, studiata ed elaborata la cucina di una Regione d’Italia. Alla fine del corso ogni professionista conoscerà la cucina italiana nelle più elevate espressioni regionali: dalla cucina tradizionale e contadina della Toscana al pesce dell’Adriatico, dai formaggi del Piemonte ai tortellini dell’Emilia Romagna, dalle verdure della Puglia ai dolci della Sicilia, dalla cucina delle valli alpine a quella mediterranea. L’Italia è un mosaico infinito di storie e di prodotti, di piatti e di tradizione, di profumi e di sapori in ogni terra. Da noi per ogni festa c’è un piatto e per ogni piatto c’è una festa! 4 Un giorno a settimana, di preferenza il lunedì, è dedicato a corsi brevi, monotematici con degusta-


Weekly Work Plan MONDAY THEMED TASTING AT THE REGIONAL ENOTECA 1. Wine Getting to know the principal vines and wines of Italy • The vine, the grape, different vinifications: white, red, rosé the production of sparkling and dessert wines • Wine tasting: Visual and Olfactory examination • Wine tasting: Taste examination – scoring a wine • The grapes and wines of northern and central Italy • The grapes and wines of central and southern Italy • Principles of food and wine matching 2. Extra Virgin Olive Oil Recognizing excellent products • Understanding the oil-making process • Taste-testing for qualities and defects • Appreciating oils from various regions and the islands 3. Cheese Appreciating Italian cheeses • Cheese-making methods • Ageing and refining • Typical regional products from North to South


4. Charcuterie Products Discovering regional traditions • Salumi- cooked and raw; ground paste or whole meat • Salami and ciauscolo • Cured pork- coppa, lonza, lonzino • Prized cuts- prosciutto, culatello, fiocco • Mortadella and bresaola 5. Bread Working with leavened dough • Different flours and yeasts • Common, whole wheat and seasoned varieties • Breadsticks and holiday breads

TUESDAY-FRIDAY COOKING COURSE WITH DIFFERENT REGIONAL DISHES EACH WEEK Timetable: from 8:30a.m. to 5:30p.m. Workshop for the senses At the beginning of each week the Region is introduced with a brief overview of its history and geography. Then each day the lesson starts with a presentation of the prime ingredients: their characteristics, quality, zone of origin and the companies that produce them.

Regional Enoteca of Jesi

This is our “tasting laboratory” and lasts for about an hour.

base dishes will be studied. Work ends at 5:30p.m.


Transfer to the teaching kitchen The Instructor explains the recipes for the day and prepares each dish right along with the Students who follow the process and also prepare the dishes themselves. All the operations are carefully observed and guided by the expert Chef. The work will not be rushed, but done with precision in the time required. When the cooking is finished, the dishes are taken to the table to be tasted, checked and compared.

Friday evening highlights At the close of a week’s work on some Friday evenings the School is open to a select public. In the Pergolesi Hall a dinner-tasting will be offered to 20 to 25 people with a series of dishes jointly prepared by teachers and students, each recipe according to the traditions of their region of origin. Top quality prime ingredients and wines will be used from the School’s sponsor companies and those chosen by Slow Food from among the best at national level.

Saturdays and Sundays are dedicated to getting to know the regions and their products by direct contact with the producers. Some weeks the producers will come to Jesi to present their companies and products with a guided tasting session. At other times the Students will travel to various Regions and visit the producers on site. The work done on the weekends is very important because it is the most direct way for the Students to learn about the products, how to use them, where to find them in their place of origin and how to introduce them in a future workplace.

Collective discussion The daily teaching program is reviewed and eventual variations on the base dish discussed, proposed or critiqued. Every day several


n the 15th century the historical center of Jesi went though a phase of great development. Right in the heart of the old city, near the beautiful Palazzo della Signoria, is the Palazzo Balleani, a building that belonged to a family who owned a large amount of land outside of the town walls. All the great land-owning families had large cellars beneath their homes where they gathered grapes to make their supply of wine for the winter. Palazzo Balleani, where our School is located, also houses the Regional Enoteca (Wine-Cellar) of Jesi. This Enoteca is managed by Assivip, an association of wine producers who organize wine tasting courses. Not only do they present wine, but also other high-quality products from local producers: extra virgin olive oil, cheeses, salami, pasta. On Mondays the Enoteca is available to our School, where we hold our themed courses on wine, olive oil, bread, salumi and cheese. The collaboration with the Enoteca continues on Friday evenings with the conclusion of the teaching program of the week. Our School is open to the public for an evening of tasting with a presentation of the dishes studied during the week. 17

Programmi di cucina regionale PIEMONTE





Vitello della razza piemontese: l’insalata di carne cruda, il vitello tonnato, il bollito misto, il brasato al barolo. La cucina di pianura: grano, patata e riso. Tajarin, agnolotti, gnocchi. La cucina di montagna. Le verdure. La bagna caoda. Formaggi e dolci.

Il grano per il pane e la pasta. Il grano arso ed il grano stumpato. Orecchiette e cavatelli. Legumi e verdure: cime di rapa e lampascioni. Latticini: fiordilatte, provola, scamorza, burrata. Formaggi: caciocavallo e canestrato.

La cucina rustica: panzanella e fettunta, acquacotta, pappa al pomodoro e ribollita. Le carni: vitello e maiale. La fiorentina ed i salumi. Sughi di carne e crostini. La cucina rinascimentale: anatra alla frutta, piccione alle mandorle, il biancomangiare con cioccolata calda aromatizzata alle spezie.

Paste tradizionali e carni: tonnarelli, scilatelle, lagane e ceci, a tiana, u morzheddu. Le verdure, le erbe, le spezie: cottura sotto la cenere, conservazione sott’olio. Il mare: tonno e pesce spada. Le minoranze etniche: albanesi, occitani e grecani.

La tradizione ebraica e l’oca come alternativa al maiale. I vari modi di preparazione: il fegato grasso, i ciccioli d’oca, oca arrosto all’antica. Il pesce: la trota nelle sue preparazioni tradizionali e moderne. L’anatra. Il prosciutto di San Daniele.

EMILIA ROMAGNA Pasta all’uovo e paste ripiene. I vari formati: tagliatelle, tagliolini, tortellini di Bologna, cappelletti di Ferrara, anolini di Parma. Pasta al forno: lasagne e cannelloni.

MARCHE La cucina della costa: il brodetto di pesce, stoccafisso all’anconetana. La cucina di collina: farro, lenticchia e cicerchia. Vincisgrassi, stracciatella e passatelli. Il coniglio in porchetta. I formaggi ed il tartufo. 18

CAMPANIA La pasta e la cucina della domenica: ziti al ragù, paccheri alla genovese, il sartù di riso, il timballo. Legumi e verdure: minestra di broccoli, minestra maritata, fagioli alla maruzzara. Le carni: panzetta di agnello, costine con papacelle, coniglio all’Ischitana. Il pesce ed i frutti di mare.

LOMBARDIA Il riso: storia, varietà, metodi di cottura. Risotto alla milanese, risotto alla pilota, risotto al radicchio, risotto al vino rosso, risotto con il pesce fritto. La pasta: tortelli di zucca alla mantovana, pizzoccheri della Valtellina. Analisi comparata di cottura di pasta secca.

UMBRIA Gli antipasti: bruschette, crostini e pizze. Le zuppe rustiche: minestra di ceci, di farro e di fagioli. La pasta: tagliolini, quadrucci, umbrichelli. Il tartufo nero di Norcia e di Spoleto. La porchetta e le carni grigliate.

ABRUZZO VENETO Il baccalà: alla vicentina, alla veneziana, mantecato. La polenta e la pasta: i bigoi in salsa. Le verdure: radicchio rosso di Treviso, variegato di Castelfranco, gli asparagi. Cucina tradizionale veneta: il saor. La gallina padovana e la polverara.

Piatti tradizionali con l’agnello: agnello con le erbe, ragù d’agnello, minestra d’agnello con lo zafferano, agnello cac ’e ove, cosciotto d’agnello in porchetta. La pasta fresca: i maccheroncini alla chitarra, gli anellini alla pecoraia, la pasta del mugnaio, tacconi con ceci e baccalà, cordicelle mezz’acqua e mezz’ove con sugo di ventricina.

TRENTINO Le minestre: orzetto, brò brusà, canederli. Gli gnocchi e gli strangolapreti. I salumi: la lucanica e la carne salada. Le carni: tonco de pontesel, cervo e capriolo. I funghi e i frutti di bosco. I formaggi di malga. La mela trentina.

SICILIA L’influenza araba. Il pesce marinato, il couscous, la caponata e preparazioni in agro-dolce. Legumi e formaggi. Timballo e ravioli di ricotta, coniglio alla stemperata. I dolci: la cassata, i cannoli, i sorbetti e le granite. 19

Traditional Canederli in broth A symbol of the old middle-European cuisine, “canederliâ€? (from the German, KnĂśdl), are widely used in the typical cuisine of the Trentino region. In all probability, the custom derived from the need to find a use for stale bread and leftovers. Someone has actually researched and classified 36 variations, from the broth version to the pasta-like version, from eating them as a salad to a first course.

Ingredients: 300g. day-old bread 150g. fresh lucanica sausage 50g. onion 2 eggs 2 glasses milk 2 Tbsp flour 3 Tbsp chopped parsley 1 bunch chives 1 Tbsp (or more) butter 170g. liter meat stock salt and pepper


Preparation: Cut the bread into cubes and put in a bowl. Crumble the lucanica and add to the bread. Pare and finely chop the onion and brown in butter. Beat the eggs with some of the milk, add the parsley and pour onto the bread. Set aside for a halfhour. Then add the flour, salt, cooked onion and, if necessary, some more milk. With wet hands, take portions of the mixture and make balls about the size of billiard balls or slightly smaller and drop into a pot of boiling salted water and cook over medium heat for approximately 15 minutes. They should be served in dishes of broth and sprinkled with chives.

On the first attempts, it is sometimes advisable to cook one dumpling first, to test whether it holds together or not. If necessary, add a little flour to the mixture. One can also cook the dumplings directly in the broth. If the canederli come out right, they will retain their shape, but be light and tender. Variation: Canederli can also be served without broth, with melted butter and cheese, or as an accompaniment to Trentino gulash or with sauerkraut.

The Triumph of Herbs


return to the use of herbs, cooking with herbs, flavouring a dish with herbs‌ In our opulent society it has become a pervading necessity to eliminate from our diet fats and sugars in excess. In Mediterranean culture herbs have always played a major role. Thus, it is truly unforgettable


experience, especially in the Spring, to go out into the fields to forage for fresh herbs, learn to recognize them, gather them and use them in the simplest of ways, in omelettes, soups, or risotto. Once again, we have seen confirmation that real flavours are born of genuine ingredients that are fresh and do not require any elaborate preparation.

Learning continues in every region of Italy TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE LOMBARDIA





Restaurants affiliated with our School


SAPS is a non-profit cultural association, a research center dedicated to supplying information to chefs, students of Hotel Management Schools and even amateurs who wish to learn more about cooking utensils, like pots and pans. It is important to know their shape and the materials with which they are made, how they are conceived and what characteristics they must have for optimal results in the kitchen.


Attending the Master Italian Cooking Course in Jesi means becoming immersed in the variety of traditions and food cultures germaine to the various regions of Italy. In Jesi the students learn of the typical dishes of Sicily and Apulia, of Tuscany and Piedmont, of the Marches and Campania. Every day brings new recipes and different tastes; this is the history of our country. Thus, during the Course, ideas and desires are born: why not learn more about cooking with fish? Or about the use of fresh herbs in Mediterranean cuisine? Or what about all the different salumi- how are they made? And if we perfected our knowledge of cheese and cheese-making? Some like the idea of getting to






The SAPS’s facilities consist of a study and research area with a professionally equipped kitchen as well as a dining hall which seats over 60 guests. Moreover there is also a very special historical museum dedicated to cooking vessels and implements which faithfully reproduces an early 1900’s workshop with original antique machines and period pieces.

The association offers courses which are part theory, on history and correct usage of kitchen implements and part practical, taught by its own highly qualified teachers: Federico Coria and Giuseppe Maffioli. It was the aim of its founders that SAPS safeguard and pass on its rich heritage of know-how on the subject of cooking utensils and become a place to meet, to have fun, to learn, available to all cooking enthusiasts who care about the culinary arts, the rich traditions of gastronomy and the pleasures of “eating well”.


know more about pasta, others wish to have a chance to experience bread or pizza making. For everyone there are opportu-

nities to learn and improve at restaurants that are in in line with Slow Food culture, in every region of Italy.


At the conclusion of the Course, on occasion of the official dinner held in Pergolesi Hall, the diplomas are awarded, in the presence of Authorities, friends and supporters of our School. Each Chef is presented with the gold Slow Food snail pin, a symbol of what is both slow and wise.


Diploma night

Plunge into an ocean of chocolate Within the Master’s Course program there is one day dedicated to learning about and working with that most sublime food:


Maurizio di Mario, from Orvieto, is the young and impassioned teacher who guides our Students through the intricacies and subtleties of flavour for an entire day. First some information on the three main species (Creole, Forastero, Trinity) of the cocoa plant and then it’s to the work table to learn the various preparation phases. Egg yolks, flour, toasted almonds, sugar, spices, butter: all laid out in a splendid array and everything begins. Someone beats the eggs and sugar, someone else melts the chocolate and butter in a double


boiler. While one beats the egg whites, another butters the moulds and pre-heats the oven. No one knows why, but on Chocolate Day there is always an especially festive atmosphere in the kitchen, a gaiety riding on a wave of mouth-watering aromas. Any self-respecting chef naturally dips a finger into various preparations to taste for correct seasoning and balance of flavours in a dish. This is even more frequent when there is chocolate as the main ingredient and then the passer-by

hears lip-smacking and sighs of pleasure which testify to the deep gratification of the taster. When the recipes are ready, the creations are brought to the table: semifreddo, tortino, panpepato and crescionda. Silence. As each spoon is dipped in each guest concentrates on the fullness of the taste. And suddenly a problem arises: what wine shall we drink? We wonder which wine will go best with chocolate? There is always a solution and, at any rate, it’s a good topic for discussion and a good excuse to taste it all once more. Cheers!

To Convivium Leaders Nederland: Stevin Van Laatum Westerdoksdijk t/o 20 1013 AE Amsterdam

Dear friends, Our School began its first courses at the beginning of 2003 and is enjoying great success. In Jesi, a town in the Marches Region of central Italy, the courses are in full swing and we can foresee having as many as fifty foreign chefs graduate each year with the “Slow Food- Master Italian Cooking” Diploma. Our Master’s Course requires an intense amount of study and hard work from our Students who also learn about numerous producers and their products in the search for the authentic roots of Italian regional cooking. With this new initiative, Slow Food Italy aims to give valid support to professional chefs from abroad who wish to learn about Italian cooking in a thorough way, focusing on each region. Italy is a country in which the recipes are strongly linked to the traditions, history and people. It is because of the differences between regions that Italian cuisine is so rich and varied. This Slow Food cooking course in Italy will also allow new contacts to be made at an international level and will continue to expand in the future at the University of Pollenzo. To all of you, dear Convivium Leaders, we send you this message along with the names and addresses of those who represent and follow our organizational activities and who can be contacted for further information.

Korea: Chin-wha Kim (President/CEO, Media International Organization) 3-102 Hyundai Ville, Yonhee Dong 45-23, SoDaiMonn, Seoul Korea 120-823

Great Britain and Ireland: Wendy Fogarty 40c Strawberry Hill Road Strawberry Hill Twickenham MIDDX TW1 4PU United Kingdom

United States of America: Francesco Tonelli (Associate Professor, The Culinary Institute of America) 46 Riverview- Port Ewen 12466-5104 New York, NY USA


Japan: Tokyo Office HIDE UCHIYAMA Ltd (Ms. Rieko Uchiyama) 2-13-22 Shìmouma, Setagaya-ku Tokyo-JAPAN

Canada Mara Jernigan 4255 Trans Canada Hwy, RR1 Cobble Hill B.C. VOR ILO CANADA Tel. (01) 250.743-4267 Fax (01) 250.743-8367

A different breed of cattle In the 6th century A.D. new barbarian populations arrived in Italy and with them the “big-horned bovines”. Virtually all of the existing breeds present in the various regions of Italy today descend in some way from this stock. razza marchigiana, breed of the Marche region, is one of the most famous in Italy. It first appeared around the mid-1800’s when the Marche cattle ranchers cross-bred their podolica cows with chianina bulls so as to produce work animals that also had good meat. This first hybrid was very muscular, had a pale coat, short horns and a small head. It was excellent for meat but too large to be well-suited to working hilly lands and sub-Apennine terrain. Then, in the early 1900’s another cross-breeding was attempted with the romagnola breed in the hopes of reducing the size of the animal and improving the overall performance. The breeding continued for decades until 1932. At that point the decision was made to proceed by internal selection only, within the bovine population, according to specific criteria in



order to establish a geneology. The marchigiana breed as we know it today, is characteristically well-developed in its posterior, has an elongated body, a smooth coat and a powerful head, but not overly large. The males have a massive neck and thick, muscular thighs, with short, muscular legs. In the overall body mass there is little fat, considerable muscle, excellent quality meat and a low percentage of bone. A two yearold male must weigh at least 850

kilograms in order to qualify for inclusion in a family tree. In recent decades as agriculture has become more highly mechanized, the marchigiana breed is sought out primarily for its meat which is prized for its excellent consistency, its fine texture and rich pink color. This breed is also raised in the U.S.A., in Canada and in South America; it easily adapts to difficult climactic conditions and generally adverse situations.

The use of liqueurs in cooking is an old tradition. The choice of Varnelli to cook with originates from the conviction, confirmed by all the most famous chefs, that only a product of high quality can make a speciality dish better by enriching it with its essential flavour after the alcohol has evaporated. During cooking, “Varnelli”, with its dry and refined taste, proves to be ideal for the most varied recipes: a light flavour for fish dishes, robust with meat and game, excellent in sauces for many pasta dishes. “Varnelli” is also great on ice-cream and in pastries, where all of the other Varnelli liqueurs can be widely used. With the “Varnelli Grand Gourmet” line, the company offers a range of products and recipes for simple but high quality cooking. Cooking to be proud of.

COFFEE AND ANICE-FLAVORED TAGLIATELLE WITH BROCCOLI AND PRAWNS Ingredients for the pasta: 300g flour 2 whole eggs + 1 egg yolk 10g Varnelli anice liqueur 20g expresso coffee

Ingredients for the sauce: 200g broccoli florets 16 prawns 1 small shallot 100g fish stock (or clam juice) extra virgin olive oil (regular or orange-flavored) fresh thyme salt

Preparation: Combine and blend the flour and eggs, adding the Varnelli anice and the coffee; prepare an egg dough following the usual procedure. Cook the broccoli in water or in a steam oven. Chop the shallot and thyme and sauté in a pan with the oil; add the peeled prawns and add the fish stock, simmering gently until done. Add the broccoli florets and salt to taste. Cook the pasta in plenty of salted boiling water, drain and add to the sauce. Add a little orange-flavored olive oil and toss to coat. (Enea Barbanera – Umbria)

A course designed to teach the taste of Italy, region by region. A course reserved for chefs from all over the world who prepare Italian food. A course that looks at the historical roots of the regional cooking of Italy: from the Alps to the Mediterranean and from the Tyrrhenian to the Adriatic Sea. A course to know the producers of quality food (pasta, wine, cheese, olive oil, meat products...) and the gastronomic culture of each region. A diploma that requires hard work and study, with the chance to do a specialty internship in one or several Regions at the end of the Course.

Italcook Magazine N. 5  

Italcook Magazine N. 5