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NEW! Burgers and kebabs with a twist

TASTE OF FRANCE Magic flavours to re-create at home Why red wine isn’t as healthy as you thought



Tomato, ricotta & honey tart with thyme pastry


Welcome to



It’s that full-of-light time of year when

proper sunshine comes into play – or it should do, anyway. Are you a morning or evening person? I’m naturally the latter, but on weekdays I force myself to get up early to enjoy the relative solitude of misty mornings when London is at its most still and quiet, before the heat of the day. Everything seems possible then – even if over-ambitious hopes and plans crumble slightly later. Weekends are a time to relish the feel of cool grass underfoot and a grabbed moment at end of day when it’s gloriously okay to enjoy a glass of something chilled as the sun dips down. But how do you feel about eating outside? At home it’s easy – as long as there’s shade to be had to stop drinks warming in five minutes and salad looking limp in less. When you’re out and about, though, and need to cart everything with you while keeping things cool, it’s more of a challenge. Serious planning is required. Are you in food writer Brontë Aurell’s camp, where you actively plan to eat outside at every opportunity? If so, embrace that Scandi feeling and turn to her recipes on p32 without delay! If you’re less convinced, you’ll be amused by Debora Robertson’s take on the rigours of living up to the perfect picnic – see her rant on the back page. We do make ourselves work unnecessarily hard sometimes, don’t we? My mantra is to keep food simple whenever possible: maximum impact; minimum effort (as the late, great chef Antonio Carluccio always said). With that in mind, my recipes of the month are our cover-star tomato tart on p88 (a new candidate for number one sunshine dish) and the orange blossom almond cake laden with rosé-drenched berries (p70), both of which look and taste like a summer’s day. That’s what the most enjoyable seasonal eating is about, after all: giving the best ingredients a stage on which to shine… Cut a slice, pour a glass and enjoy!


Follow Karen on Twitter @deliciouseditor

and on Instagram @editorkarenb

DON’T MISS OUT! Turn to p76 for our special offer. Subscribe to delicious. magazine and get two years for the price of one.



1 Critical mass

Regular readers will know delicious. has long supported the charity Action Against Hunger, and 8 July sees the return of its Too Many Critics event at Neil Rankin’s Temper City restaurant in London. Food writers will be manning the kitchens – as opposed to writing about what comes out of them. On the team in previous years have been Jay Rayner and Bill Knott, and this year the cooks will be joined by delicious. team member Hugh Thompson. There’s just time for you to buy a ticket and enjoy the meal alongside some of the best chefs and restaurateurs. Tickets £120 each. Visit

2 The good book

Bake for Syria comes hot on the heels of the success of Cook For Syria, both books produced in their entirety through people donating their recipes and time – and all profits go to UNICEF’s Children of Syria Appeal. There are contributions from Jamie Oliver and Yotam Ottolenghi, as well as traditional dessert recipes donated by Syrian families. Even if you never bake cakes, this is a book to buy – or give as a gift. £25 from major booksellers, including Waterstones, and on Amazon

Five quick things to make with… Courgettes The 10-minute lunch Courgette & buttermilk salad Whisk 100ml buttermilk, ½ small crushed garlic clove, the grated zest and juice of ½ lemon, a small bunch of chopped fresh mint and 2 tsp poppy seeds in a bowl, then season. Peel 2 courgettes into ribbons with a Y-shape peeler, toss in the dressing and serve sprinkled with crumbled goat’s cheese and a few fresh basil leaves.


Herby side dish

Slice 2 courgettes into 1cm discs, spread out on a baking tray, drizzle with oil, season with salt and pepper and roast for 10 minutes at 200°C/ 180°C fan/gas 6. Arrange on a platter, sprinkle with chopped fresh dill and mint, then crumble over some feta.


Summer ribbons

Cook 300g linguine according to the pack instructions (save half a mugful of the cooking water). Toss in a hot frying

pan with 4 courgettes, peeled into ribbons with a Y-shaped peeler, a drizzle of good olive oil and the reserved water. Season and stir in chopped fresh parsley and plenty of grated pecorino.


Pea green soup

Gently fry 500g sliced courgettes in a knob of butter until golden. Pour in 1 litre vegetable stock, add 300g diced maris piper potatoes, then simmer for 15-20 minutes. Stir in 200g frozen peas, a handful of fresh basil and 50g grated parmesan, cook for 2-3 minutes, then whizz with a stick blender until smooth.


Fritter dippers

Mix 3 diced courgettes with 60ml soda water, 60g plain flour, 3 large free-range beaten eggs, a handful of chopped fresh coriander and some salt and pepper, then beat until smooth. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a frying pan and fry spoonfuls of the batter until golden and crisp. Serve with lime mayo for dipping.

delicious moments.

3 A moveable feast

Sunday 15 July, Monday 13 August and Monday 10 September are the dates for the low-tide feasts held between the islands of Tresco and Bryher on the Isles of Scilly. Those are days when the tide gets so low that a sandbar is revealed joining the two islands, and there’s a window of time when benches and firepits can be carried through the shallows and set up at super-quick speed. As soon as the water recedes enough, the cooking begins and guests can walk and join in, eat and feast. Cash only for the food – and no lingering or you’ll get wet! Visit and click on Events; all are welcome.

4 Glasgow is hot!


Scotland’s biggest Indian food festival takes place in Glasgow on 14-15 July. The Grade A-listed Briggait, once the city’s fish market, is getting a makeover as an Indian food bazaar. Imagine vibrant colour and evocative music, plus a huge variety of dishes from all over India to taste. There’s lots for children to see and do, too. Admission free; visit for updates

5 The artist and the chef

Mexican artist and political activist Frida Kahlo was famous for her striking self portraits and has become a feminist icon since her death in 1954. There’s a fascinating exhibition of her artefacts on at London’s V&A museum. What has all this to do with food? Well, Mexican chef and restaurateur Martha Ortiz (right) is inspired by Kahlo’s work, and she talks about it on the delicious. podcast this month; find it via the iTunes app. Martha’s restaurant is Ella Canta at London’s InterContinental hotel ( Exhibition details at exhibitions 5




28 JULY 2018




74 TASTES LIKE HOME Peter Gordon’s Mum was a fusion pioneer with her mo-yo biscuits

22 ALWAYS A WINNER: BARBECUED SKEWERS Three top-notch ways to get grilling

26 ROAST OF THE MONTH Cook a beautiful whole plaice with an Italian twist

28 RECIPE HALL OF FAME Reinvigorate the suppertime favourite: fishcakes

TOMATO, THYME AND RICOTTA TART, p88 Recipe & food styling Jen Bedloe Photograph Toby Scott Styling Davina Perkins

32 SUMMER SCANDI-STYLE Balanced, simple

100 IN THE delicious. KITCHEN Tips, tricks and know-how from our experts

104 WEEKEND PROJECT Posh strawberry tarts 107 CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Vegetarian Turkish-

cooking from northern climes

style pizzas from the chef behind Oklava

38 THE RESIDENCY Food writer Felicity Cloake saddles up for a culinary Tour de France

50 CHERRIES, WE SALUTE YOU! Debbie Major’s sweet ode to a glorious British fruit

56 STAR OF THE SEASON: BROAD BEANS Clever ideas with for the tender, vibrant pods

61 GILL MELLER The River Cottage chef works his country magic with smoked trout

64 THE BRING-AND-SHARE BOOK LOVERS’ FEAST A sumptuous Middle-Eastern menu

72 BEST SUMMER BURGER North African spices are the secret to this winning patty 6


RE AD ALL ABOUT IT 9 10 12 15

INBOX What’s on your mind this month? FOR STARTERS Events, trends and news WISH LIST The best things to buy now A SLICE OF MY LIFE Monica Galetti’s kitchen inspiration from Samoa to London

16 FOOD HERO H Forman & Son’s salmon is a traditional taste of London

21 WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT... Kay PlunkettHogge on supporting local restaurants


delicious. PROMISE



recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, using state-of-the-art Fisher & Paykel ovens and hobs, so you can be confident they work every time.

INGREDIENTS We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ingredients and/or what to substitute them with.


We use higher-welfare meat for testing, supplied by The Ginger Pig (


✪ This symbol next to an ingredient means there are more ideas for using it on our Loose Ends page.


47 FOOD FOR THOUGHT All your niggling food-related questions answered

78 DRINKS Susy Atkins’ best summer wines and refreshing cocktails

110 TEST REPORT On trial: a Cotswold cooking class, new cookbooks and a nifty smoker

116 HUNGRY TRAVELLER A trip to Canada’s New Brunswick is a raw but tasty experience

121 delicious. ON THE ROAD Join us at some of the UK’s best summer food festivals

122 BITE-SIZE BREAK Leeds’ thriving hotspots 130 RANT Let’s pull the rug out from under picnics

19 PAGES with no fads or false health claims, just nutritious recipes and informed know-how 80 MIDWEEK COOKING Start the clock. These fab recipes are ready in just 15 minutes

84 QUICK-FIX MEAL FOR ONE Easy veggie pasta 85 BUDGET RECIPE Oriental-style aubergines


86 THE 5:2 RECIPE Protein-packed omelette

71 READER EVENT Join chef Peter Gordon for

87 SOUP OF THE MONTH Fresh chilled pea soup

dinner at The Providores, London

76 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Save 50%! Get two years of delicious. for the price of one

98 106 114 115 128 129

LOOSE ENDS Use up this month’s leftovers JUST FOR YOU Win a luxury two-night stay COOK THE COVER and win a baking course COMING NEXT MONTH FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD RECIPE INDEX

88 FRIDAY NIGHT MEAL Prep-ahead tomato tart 89 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Better-for-you coleslaw 90 TAKE A PACK OF OLIVES... for a quartet of Med-inspired big-on-flavour dishes

92 THE SANE VIEW Is red wine good for you? 94 WHY IT’S THE BEST TIME TO TRY THAI Meat-free dishes packed full of spice and fresh herbs

Unlike many magazines, our timings include prep such as chopping. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. Indicates a vegetarian recipe. Indicates a vegan recipe. Indicates a gluten-free recipe. Whenever you see

KNOW- this symbol, you’ll HOW

find useful extra information about the recipe.

This symbol means you’ll find an option to make part or all of the recipe in advance. MAKE AHEAD

Indicates you can freeze all or most of the recipe. Unless stated, freeze the finished dish for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Recipes are analysed for nutritional content by an expert nutritionist. They’re calculated with precision but may vary, depending on the ingredients used. Calculations include only listed ingredients.

PRICES are correct at time of going to press.

have your say.

Tell us what you think of delicious. (good and bad) or send your tips, pictures and queries to:

info@delicious Or write to us at:

delicious. magazine, Eye to Eye Media Ltd, Axe & Bottle Court, 70 Newcomen Street, London SE1 1YT See what other delicious. fans are talking about at deliciousmagazineuk Follow us at deliciousmag Follow us at instagram. com/deliciousmag


THIS MONTH’S STAR PRIZE* Our exclusive prize from Australian wine producer Nepenthe is a case of Petraea sauvignon blanc from its Pinnacle range, a collection of premium boutique wines made with the best-quality grapes. Renowned for producing top-drawer sauvignon blancs, Nepenthe embodies a modern Australian style that reflects the cooler climate of the Adelaide Hills.; available at, RRP £19.99


Great recipes need great ingredients. For your chance to win £50 of Sainsbury’s vouchers, solve the cryptic clue on the magazine spine, then email your answer, with your name, full UK mainland address and phone number, to info@deliciousmagazine. Competition entry closes 31 July 2018. Vouchers can be used in stores only (see p129 for Ts&Cs). May’s cryptic clue solution: radish



subject: Veal of approval from: Ceri Mortimer


delicious. is the only food magazine I buy these days and I get ridiculously excited in anticipation towards the end of the month. That said, I’m disappointed you aren’t showing support for British dairy farming’s efforts to launch rose veal as a by-product of milk production. Rather than destroying male milk-herd calves, they are being reared humanely to produce rose veal. I’ve struggled to find recipes using veal in the magazine. In the June issue, for example, the meatball recipe (p84) could be improved by using some veal. Rose veal is sweet, tender and adds a depth of flavour to any recipe calling for beef. I make a ‘mother of all meat ragùs’ (my homage to bolognese) using five types of meat – rose veal being one of them – and boy, is it tasty! Please look to include recipes with this fine British product, and help sideline imports from Europe (where crate production still widely exists).

REPLIES We agree that it’s important to support Britishraised rose veal and we need to do it more, but it’s vital to make sure you’re buying the right thing so check the packaging or with the butcher every time to make sure the meat is British high-welfare. Researching the topic for the magazine in the past, I’ve spoken to farmers about creating a market for these humanely reared animals. And, yes, the meat tastes great. Thank you for the encouragement to feature it more.

subject: More than just recipes... from : Pamela Hughson

subject: Shortsighted from : Inger Tweedie

seasonal eating

Our interest was piqued by editor Karen’s recommendation of the Roth Bar and Grill in Bruton, Somerset (June issue, p5), so we made our way there on the second bank holiday in May. What a find! The sculpture exhibition (recently at the Guggenheim Museum in New York City) was fantastic, the large outside space to enjoy the weather was welcome, and the bar and restaurant were superb. The menu of nibbles, meat from animals reared on the farm and mouthwatering desserts was really wonderful. Top score, delicious. – we wouldn’t have known about it without you!

I have just finished Emma Sturgess’ article about seasonal eating (May issue, p32) and can relate to its many and complex arguments. I lived in Zimbabwe for most of my life, and saw first-hand how rural families relied on the export of produce – entire communities were built around it. What YOU’VE been making this month... I live in the Wye Valley now and enjoy our gorgeous asparagus and strawberries, but I would never turn away from produce from the rest of the Aubergine al forno Cheddar and nutmeg Cauliflower Eton mess globe – those farmers with ’nduja custard tart shawarma traybake Kate Ailey @BullyBeefBill depend on us. Luci Gosling Marky Stapes 9




CROWDFUND A COW Leftover veg can be transformed into soup and chicken carcasses into stock – but how do you minimise food waste when it comes to butchered meat? Order a box of beef at and you’re buying a percentage of a specific cow from a small British farm. Only when 100 per cent of each beast has been bought is it butchered, and nothing is wasted. Everything from nose to tail is sold and used to create steaks, stir-fry strips and burgers (offal and pâté are available too), which are delivered to you. ‘Crowdbutchers’ are kept updated via email, and the serial number on each freezer-friendly meat box matches the ear tag from your chosen cow, making the journey from pasture to plate fully traceable. Small meat box £54.95 for 3.5kg, large meat box £89.95 for 6.7kg;

1806 Michael Keens

presented the Keens Seedling strawberry variety to The Royal Horticultural Society on 3 July. It was one of the first large-fruit strawberries marketed, and many modern cultivars can be traced back to this variety.


Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw was born in Dublin on 26 July. He went on to write the drama Man and Superman that featured the timeless line “There is no love sincerer than the love of food.”

LISTEN TO THE delicious. PODCASTÉ This month, author James Whetlor argues that zero grazing is the way to go for the billy goat market, plus chef Ramael Scully talks about striking out on his own after working in the Ottolenghi kitchens. We’ve been getting about a bit, too: to California to meet Gina Gallo, granddaughter of US wine pioneers Ernest and Julio Gallo, and we’ve been foraging in the Swiss Alps. Every week, the delicious. podcast brings you the best stories from the world of food – search for it on iTunes or wherever you find your podcasts.

announced the arrival of Dolly the sheep, the first successfully cloned mammal, on 5 July. Named after Dolly Parton, she was born to a Scottish Blackface surrogate mother and had six lambs before her death in 2003.

We’re a nation of cocoa addicts, it seems. Researchers recently polled 2,000 UK adults and found that, on average, they will each tuck into a whopping (and shocking) 1.5 tons of chocolate in their lifetime. Here’s how that dark stuff stacks up…






The town of Bundanoon in New South Wales became the world’s first to ban the sale of bottled water on 8 July.

WHO KNEW…? Fortnum & Mason, purveyor of posh picnic food, first focused on al fresco comestibles in 1738 when the company created the scotch egg for travellers.



How much chocolate do YOU eat?


1996 Scottish scientists

in the know.


TR ENDWAT CH Instagram-ready dishes



Restaurateur James Ramsden Pretty as a picture at Lyle’s takes a snapshot of the capital’s most photogenic dishes Earlier this year chef Ollie Dabbous opened a restaurant in Mayfair called Hide ( Among other noteworthy gambits – car lift into the private dining room, USB ports at each table – was the revelation that the lighting had been designed specifically to be Instagram-friendly. These days, if you’re not snapping your lunch for social media you may as well not bother, and operators are taking notice. Lists abound of the most Instagrammable restaurants in London. Here are a few also worth visiting for the food… In Fitzrovia, Portland (portlandrestaurant. – and its sister restaurant Clipstone ( – both have exceedingly pretty dining rooms and plates that include the likes of heritage carrots with

goats’ curd and roasted quail with sweetbreads. For a chef whose personal aesthetic is Hell’s Angel, Andrew Clarke’s food at the ravishing Brunswick House ( in Vauxhall is always beautifully composed and begging for the ’gram. More stripped back but no less pretty is Margot Henderson’s food at Rochelle Canteen ( in Shoreditch, where you’ll rarely find more than three deeply harmonious ingredients on a plate. A similar aesthetic is found nearby at Lyle’s ( whose Michelin star is a reminder that just because food looks simple (if stunning) it doesn’t mean it’s easy. So, yeah. We do eat with our eyes first, but immediately after that, out come the phones. Just don’t let the food get cold.

The ultimate First World problem Ordering a takeaway could be less of a treat than you think. Researchers at the University of Wolverhampton used heart monitors to measure the stress of having a pizza delivered. They found the excitement of ordering raised the average heart rate from 70 to 87 beats per minute. Five minutes later, people entered the fidgety stage, followed by the anxiety stage. Further delays can result in the irate stage and huge spikes in heart rates. These stressful moments have been dubbed Takeaway Trauma by behavioural expert Darren Stanton, who says: “People order a takeaway to reward themselves after a week at work and to enjoy a relaxing night in. The study suggests the stress it causes can be the opposite of this.” All the more reason to cook delicious. recipes, we say.

BEST WAY TO LOSE WEIGHT? Seventy per cent of us start a health kick 53 days before we go on holiday, with the intention of shedding 10lbs. How do we do it? The most common approaches are to give up takeaways, go teetotal and eat healthier meals. We also increase the amount of exercise we do, spending an average 33 hours 7 minutes getting into shape ahead of a summer break. Maybe we should all jet off to the sun more often.

1-31 Hampshire Food Festival A month-long calendar of cross-county events, such as farm/vineyard/distillery tours and pop-up dinners hosted by chefs, including MasterChef winner Jane Devonshire. Prices vary; 14-15 Pommery Dorset Seafood Festival, Weymouth Grilled lobsters, garlic mussels, fresh crab… Tuck into a seafood feast in this quaint harbour town, with a glass or two of champagne. Chefs Sophie Michell and Neil Rankin, seafood supremo CJ Jackson (see p103) and others will share their fishy wisdom. Free; 25-29 Edinburgh Food Festival Scotland’s larder will be on proud display in the capital’s George Square Gardens. Expect a vibrant street food market offering dumplings, gelato and more, plus a series of interesting talks. Free; 28-29 Hatfield Food Festival, Hertfordshire Watch cookery superstars Rosemary Shrager, 2017 GBBO winner Sophie Faldo and River Cottage’s John Wright in action, before joining free masterclasses for adults and kids. Don’t miss appliance expert Fisher & Paykel’s Social Kitchen. Tickets from £9; 11

These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval. KAREN BARNES, EDITOR


SAVE THE PLANET Cookery assistant Olivia told me about the brilliant products from Weaver Green, which she spotted at the Chelsea Flower Show. This tote bag looks and feels as though it’s made from sturdy wool but it’s handwoven from recycled plastic bottles – the plastic is combed, then woven into a durable, soft fabric. How clever is that? The bags are at the top of my lust list. Look out too for the picnic blankets, rugs and cushions – all for indooroutdoor use. Tote bags, £45,

For working hands

Edible flowers have become The Thing, their pretty colours giving a striking finish to summer salads, drinks, desserts and (very Harry & Meghan) cakes. Embrace the trend with sprinklings of violas, fuchsias, begonias and daisies from Sainsbury’s for £3 a punnet… So beautiful, so fresh.

Carole Bamford, the mastermind behind Daylesford Organic Farm in Gloucestershire, is known for her commitment to sustainability and fine ingredients. That ethos is present in these new soaps and creams, rich in botanical extracts that have a noticeable softening effect on the skin (they’ve been thoroughly tested here). The bitter orange scented one recalls the freshness of a grove in bloom, but the rosemary is lovely, too. Hand balm, £10 for 75ml; hand wash, £19 for 300ml,

THEY’VE CRACKED IT Magnum have cleverly translated their crisp-shell lollies into tub form, and the chocolate & hazelnut praliné is a winner. Squeeze the tub to crack the thick chocolate into shards, then dive in with a spoon. £3.85 for 440ml, widely available 12



Chocolate, peanut butter, caramelised peanuts and peanut ice cream – this new flavour from Häagen-Dazs is almost dangerous, it’s so good. You have been warned. Oh, and it comes in lollies, too. £5.35 for 460ml from Asda, Tesco & Sainsbury’s

Made with coconut milk, Miiro lollies more than hit the spot for those who can’t eat cream or milk – and for those who can. Available in peanut butter, choc-hazelnut or salted caramel flavours. £2.49 each or £5.49 for 3 x 70ml lollies from Holland & Barrett, Ocado and Amazon



in the know.

Healthy snack

Abakus hickory nuts are just as they sound: nuts from the hickory tree. They’ve been baked, which gives the nuts a buttery, butterscotch taste that’s almost Daim-bar-like – even though there’s no butter or chocolate involved. They’re rich in the essential nutrient manganese, too. Try them; they’re good. £1.99 for a resealable 20g bag, (save 10% if you buy 10 bags)

JERSEY COMPETITION When I was growing up, my grandma’s cooking was a highlight whenever we headed southwest (which was often). In early summer we all looked forward to the arrival of Cornish new potatoes which, to my mind, are every bit as wonderful as jersey royals. They taste as if they have butter on them, even before you’ve added a dollop – and don’t forget the showering of fresh mint, too. The potatoes have just gone on shop shelves in Tesco, but get them before they go as the season is short.


GOOD GRILLING There’s all manner of fancy marinated meat on shop shelves at this time of year. For something even more chi-chi than our skewer recipes on p22, order this 900g 32-day dry-aged heritage breed côte de boeuf. We’ve tested it and the meat is outstanding. Farmison has created a special box for delicious. readers (£29.75, plus p&p) including a packet of Salt House Hawaiian pink salt and a pot of (v good) horseradish and mustard sauce*. Visit to order READER or call 01765 601 226 and quote OFFER ‘delicious offer’

This month I’m drinking…

A DIFFERENT TYPE OF NORDIC NOIR The gin craze continues, and it’s not just the UK that’s feeling the love. This distinctive black-bottled gin from Norwegian craft distiller Stig Bareksten has a clean aroma with invigorating whiffs of pine, spice and woodland. At 46 per cent alcohol it can stand up to ice and tonic – and will add a Nordic air to your martinis. Bareksten Botanical Gin, from £42 (70cl), mastersofmalt. com, Gerry’s Wines & Spirits and Amazon

And also…

A NEW KIND OF TEA Have you discovered kombucha yet? It’s a fermented tea drink so it has a gentle sparkle to it and a slightly sour taste. You might not be sold on it at first taste, but trust me: you will be (plus it’s only 50 calories a bottle). I love it for its lack of sweetness – plus (trend alert) it’s fantastic for your microbiome (gut health). Real Kombucha, £26.99 for a mixed case of 12, 13


At the heart of Fisher & Paykel refrigerators is the ability to sense and respond to daily use in an intelligent way. The combination of temperature sensors with smart electronics and variable speed fans creates a controlled environment and optimum



better food care. We call it ActiveSmart™ Technology. Model shown RF540ADUX4 08000 886 601





where Monica grew up among livestock and tropical orchards, eating chop suey; her mum passed on skills; love blossomed at Le Gavroche; just the one, please…

The restaurateur, chef and MasterChef: The Professionals judge on climbing papaya trees, being a parent and following her dreams

CHILDHOOD FREEDOMS I grew up in Samoa with my aunties until I was eight, before I moved to New Zealand to live with my parents. I ran barefoot in the plantations and was a tomboy. We’d get papaya off the trees or cocoa fruit to make our own hot chocolate. There were always chickens and livestock around. Nothing came in a packet; we grew or killed it.

KITCHEN GOSSIP We were taught to cook very young. I loved being in the kitchen with my mum and aunties, all the gossip. We had chop suey; fish with coconut milk, tomatoes, spring onions and lime; and lots of taro, a starchy root veg. Those are the dishes I crave when I think of my family.


MY BIGGEST SUPPORT When I felt nervous after getting my first promotion at Le Gavroche in London, I phoned my mother and she just said: “You will be fine.” I didn’t understand how brave it was of her to encourage me to leave home and follow my dream until I was a mother myself. My daughter Anais is 12 now and loves to cook. It’s important she knows she can fend for herself.

A FAMILY BUSINESS My husband David and I opened our restaurant, Mere, last year. It’s the French word for mother and also my mother’s name, pronounced “Mary” in Samoan. David and I met at Le Gavroche, where he was the sommelier.

DRINK OF CHOICE At the end of the week I look forward to a glass of wine – just the one, sometimes champagne. I am not great on beer. It makes me burp – is that too much information?!

MY WORK MANTRAS When I’m busy at the restaurant I find myself muttering one of two things: “We are getting there,” and “One day at a time, dear Jesus.” I sing it to myself. 15


“WE’VE SURVIVED FIRE, FLOOD – AND THE 2012 OLYMPIC STADIUM” A trinity of disasters saw London’s oldest smokehouse, H Forman & Son, threatened with extinction. Its indefatigable proprietor explains how traditional values helped its survival WORDS PHOEBE STONE PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID CHARBIT



“Royal fillet is sashimilike, with a buttery yet firm texture. This is so fresh and simple, the delicate flavour of the salmon shines through. Wonderful stuff” 16

ver the past 40 years, smoked salmon has gone from a luxury artisan product to supermarket sandwich filler, and not without sacrifices to quality and confusion over its origins. Who better to dispel the myths and show us how it should be done than H Forman & Son, a company with over 100 years’ experience in salmon-smoking? “Smoked salmon should not really taste of smoke,” fourth-generation fish-smoker Lance Forman says adamantly when I meet him at his vast East London smokehouse, on the appropriately named Fish Island. “The point of the smoke was to preserve the fish in the days when refrigeration was basic. The smoke is like a fine dust particle – it sticks to the outside and creates a seal, and no bacteria can get through.” When this outer crust, called the pellicle, is removed, what lies beneath is salmon with a remarkable concentrated flavour and a mild smokiness. “The smoke should never overpower it – if you have a beautiful fresh fish, why would you want it to taste like an ashtray?” asks Lance.

THE TASTE OF TRADITION Today H Forman & Son smoke their fish in much the same way as Lance’s greatgrandfather Aaron ‘Harry’ Forman and his son Louis, the company’s namesakes, did when they established the business in 1905. A Jewish immigrant from Eastern Europe, Harry was one of many who set up shop smoking fish in London’s East

End in the early 20th century. Today H Forman & Son is the last of this old guard. At first, fish was imported from the Baltic, brined and in barrels, before smokehouses caught wind of fresh salmon arriving from Scotland at nearby Billingsgate Market. “A lot of people think it’s an ancient Scottish tradition,” explains Lance. “But it was the fish that was Scottish, not the smoking.” The company still use Scottish salmon today because of its superior quality – both farmed and wild Scottish salmon have Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) within the EU. All the farmed salmon H Forman uses is RSPCA-assured, and Lance has a strict buying policy: every fish must reach them within 48 hours of leaving the water, which rules out using Norwegian salmon popular with other producers. “It’s crucial, not only in terms of taste but also nutritional value,” says Lance. “I laugh when I read on other people’s smoked salmon packaging: ‘After we smoke our salmon we leave it to mature for three days before we carve it.’ Fish does not mature – it just goes off. With fish, it’s all about the freshness.”

THIS IS HOW THEY DO IT… The transformation begins in the early morning, when a new arrival of gleaming, silvery salmon is filleted by hand. The rib and pin bones are left in the fillets to give more flavour to the fish when smoked, and two circular patches are cut out of the skin to ensure even smoke penetration. The

meet the producer.

“Smoked salmon is part of the great heritage of London’s food culture”


H Forman & Son’s new complex; salting the fillets; royal fillet, the 2017 delicious. Produce Award Editor’s Choice; freshly smoked fillets in the kiln; Lance Forman (opposite page)


All Forman’s smoked salmon is sliced by hand

lot more – you’re chopping down four times as many trees.” The entire process takes roughly four days, and the result is in consumers’ hands the same day it leaves the kiln. “Smoking the fish slows down its deterioration rate, but the salmon stills tastes best the day after it’s smoked,” says Lance.


fillets are laid out under a snowy blanket of rock salt to cure; over the next 24 hours they’ll lose 10 per cent of their water content. They’re rinsed, then put in the kiln to gently air-dry and lose more moisture, then smoked for 12-24 hours, depending on the quantity and size of the fish. The salmon is cold-smoked at a temperature of 28-30°C by frictionburning solid oak logs. This method is one of the company’s few concessions to modern technology and provides greater control and improved purity compared to burning sawdust. “When you buy a bag of sawdust, you don’t know what you’re buying,” says Lance. This process is more environmentally friendly, too. “Because it’s a solid piece of oak, it’s dense, so you use less of it. To produce the same amount of smoke with loose sawdust you’d need a

WHERE TO BUY All of H Forman & Son’s products are made fresh to order. Buy at selected retailers, including Sainsbury’s and Waitrose, and via formanandfield. com or 18

It’s this distinctively simple London Cure that is H Forman & Son’s jewel in the crown, and in 2017 it was awarded PGI status after a four-year campaign by Lance, in recognition of its significance to the local area. No other food or drink in the capital has been granted it to date, including London gin. “We’re proud of that,” nods Lance. “We think every restaurant in London worth its salt should use London Cure smoked salmon. If you went to the Champagne region of France there’s not a hope in hell they’d serve prosecco! It’s part of the heritage of London’s food culture.” The business regularly runs tours and windows into the factory area give an overview of the whole process. “There’s nothing complicated about what we do,” confides Lance. “The hard thing is being able to do it consistently, day after day, for 100 years. That’s the challenge.”

FIRE AND FLOOD A challenge it has been. Soon after Lance took the reins from father Marcel in the 1990s, a trio of tragedies struck. In 1998 a fire gutted the factory, where the business had been based for the previous 40 years; just 18 months later the refurbished site was flooded. New premises were built nearby, but within two years Lance learned that the land was wanted for the 2012 Olympic Stadium, and 350 businesses in the area were issued with compulsory purchase orders. Thorny negotiations ensued (about which Lance penned a tell-all book) and the result in 2007 was a new complex for the business, which includes a restaurant, art gallery, venue space and facilities for a fine food retail arm, Forman & Field. It’s clear Lance is a shrewd businessman – he has brought Forman's smoked salmon to consumers via the web and supplying supermarkets – and he isn’t shy about singing his product’s praises. He reels off myriad reasons why mass-produced smoked salmon is inferior, from the use of

heavy smoke or sugar to mask less-thanfresh fish, to improper curing. Or the use of liquid smoke and brine to minimise the weight lost. “In our view it has completely devalued and ruined the good name of smoked salmon,” says Lance. “A lot of people don’t like smoked salmon and I don’t blame them – a lot of it’s pretty unpleasant, smoky and slimy.” A common commercial practice is to keep the protective pellicle, which takes the brunt of the smoke, on the fish and slice the entire fillet mechanically (look for telltale brown edges on slivers of smoked salmon – an inferior product in Lance’s eyes). H Forman repurposes its pellicle for pâté and also sells it as jerky.

DOING IT ROYALLY Salmon has fatty and lean cuts, a fact that Forman’s is keen to highlight, and you can choose which you want when ordering through their website. “If you roast a chicken, everyone knows to ask, ‘Do you want the leg or the breast?’” says Lance. “It’s the same thing.” The royal fillet, our 2017 Produce Awards Editor’s Choice, is cut from the leanest part of the smoked fillet. “It’s the fillet steak of smoked salmon,” Lance says proudly, offering me a slice. It glistens like a ruby and melts in the mouth with a clean salmon flavour and just a hint of smoke. A product of undeniable quality, heritage and skill, it’s not just worth its salt, but also its weight in gold.

meet the producer.

Salmon poke bowl



We meet Wross the Forager


Use any of your favourite vegetables in this poke bowl. We like edamame beans, sliced radish and mango, too. FOOD TEAM’S TIP

• 225g short grain rice • ½ cucumber • 1 carrot • 2 tbsp brown rice vinegar • ½ ripe avocado, sliced • 2 tbsp arame seaweed, soaked in a bowl of cold water for 15 minutes (we used Clearspring from – optional • 1 tsp chilli flakes to serve (optional) FOR THE SALMON DRESSING


• 1 tbsp each black and white sesame seeds • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil • ½ tbsp brown rice vinegar • Squeeze lemon juice • 2 slices green chilli, chopped • 200g H Forman & Son’s royal fillet salmon • ½ ripe avocado, cubed 1 Soak the rice in cold water for 5 minutes, then rinse twice to remove any excess starch. Put in a saucepan with a lid, add 350ml water and bring to the boil. When boiling, cover with the lid and turn down the heat to very low. Cook for 15 minutes, then remove from the heat. 2 Meanwhile, for the dressing, toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan until fragrant. Put in a bowl with the soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, lemon juice and chilli. Chop the salmon into 1cm cubes and toss into the dressing with the cubed avocado. 3 Finely slice the cucumber and shave the carrot into thin strips using a Y-shaped vegetable peeler. 4 Remove the lid from the rice. Sprinkle with the 2 tbsp rice vinegar, fluff with a fork, then spoon into deep bowls. Top with the cucumber, carrot, sliced avocado and arame (if

using), then the salmon and avocado mixture, giving each its own space on top of the rice. Scatter with chilli flakes if you like. PER SERVING 491kcals, 22.6g fat (4.2g saturated), 19g protein, 49.7g carbs (4.1g sugars), 1.2g salt, 6.5g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A New Zealand sauvignon blanc has the bright fruitiness to take on the fish and green chilli here. For more ways to use arame seaweed, see Loose Ends

Regional rounds of judging continue this month for the 2018 delicious. Produce Awards, taking place live at food festivals across the UK. Produce from Eastern England will be assessed at the Essex Festival of Food & Drink (14-15 July) and from the South West at Taste of the South (21-22 July). Visit to view the all the shortlisted contenders.

SUMMER TREATS As the temperature rises, so does the appetite for cooling treats – and Fisher & Paykel’s CoolDrawer is here to help keep everything fresh


electable food and drink goes hand in hand with summer entertaining, whether you’re holding a full-on barbecue, an al fresco dinner party or simply treating the family to a fruity sorbet in the garden. Fisher & Paykel has developed a versatile appliance that makes cooking and entertaining in the warmer months a breeze. Need ice for that pitcher of Pimm’s or want to marinate some ribs overnight? The CoolDrawer is a fridge, freezer, wine chiller and pantry all in one – a touch of a button is all it takes to navigate between these modes. The appliance is built around the concept of distributed refrigeration, combining Fisher & Paykel’s cutting-edge ActiveSmart Foodcare technology with a sophisticated drawer-based design. It’s easy to integrate the stylish CoolDrawer into your cabinetry, but you can always use Fisher & Paykel’s stainless steel drawer panel to match it with other kitchen appliances. It doesn’t even have to stay in the kitchen – you could install it in your entertainment area for easy access to a lovely chilled bottle of something sparkly.

KEEPING IT COOL The CoolDrawer comes equipped with a compact storage tray and storage bins, so there’s plenty of space to comfortably store everything from fruit and veg to cooling drinks. The panel control allows you to switch between the five temperature settings so you have

complete flexibility over how you’d like to use it. Plus, in freezer mode it has a handy Bottle Chill function, which sets off an alarm to let you know when your drink is perfectly chilled so it doesn’t turn to ice. Smart, stylish and multi-functional, the CoolDrawer is summer’s must-have appliance.

For more information, visit, call 0800 088 6601 or email

food for thought.

WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT... Our regular columnist is down with the big-city restaurant scene, but when it comes to a good feed in a friendly spot she likes to keep it local

LOCAL HEROES It cannot have escaped your notice that all is not well in the restaurant business. Costs are up, it’s almost impossible to find staff and all kinds of places, especially chains, are closing branches like crazy. Now, I love a cheeky Nando’s as much as the next person. And I enjoy a good burger. But I’m not worried about the chains. They’re big businesses. They will ebb and flow from the high street like the tide. And somehow all will be well. No. I worry about proper local restaurants, the family-run places that I love best of all. I’m lucky to live in a neighbourhood with several such places, three of which I visit regularly. Gazette has three branches in southwest London, all of which offer classic cuisine from across France. I adore this kind of cooking, and Sara Calas at the Putney branch is one

of the best cooks I know outside of a restaurant with serious name recognition. Ingredient-led fortnightly menus make this place stand out – from morel fortnight to potée Bretonne (that region’s special stew). I’m salivating just thinking about it. Isola del Sole serves Italian food with a Sardinian bent. I’ve been going here for a good 10 years, and the owners have become good friends. I especially look forward to those moments when Marcin, the head chef, pokes his head into the

dining room to tell me that ingredient X just came in, and could he do something a little different for me. Yes, please. And then there’s Kashmir. Rohit and Shweta Razdan came from Singapore, where Kashmir was a top restaurant. Now it’s based in… Putney, offering proper Kashmiri food which, they say, you won’t find anywhere else. Rohit’s cooking is astounding, better even than central London’s Benares and The Cinnamon Club. Neighbourhood restaurants like these rely on us. They know our likes and dislikes. We learn their stories. They become our friends. We share with them our special occasions, our family treats. They are the ribbons that tie our communities together. So this month, if there’s a local place you like, especially if you haven’t been in for a while, go. As the old saying goes – use ’em or lose ’em.




NEW BELAZU FLAVOURED OLIVE OILS. The Fig Leaf is heavenly, subtle, almondy and fresh, especially drizzled over ripe tomatoes with sea salt and black olives, crusty bread and a glass of Mirabeau rosé on the side. Hello, sunshine!


LONG, COOL CAMPARI SODAS with plenty of ice and a wedge of orange or grapefruit. I’ll sip this, imagining I’m back in the 1930s at the bar in Milan’s Il Camparino, the spiritual home of this iconic herbal bitters.


ANT-MAN AND THE WASP. Does this movie have anything to do with food? No. Wasps won’t even be bothering picnickers for another month or two. But I LOVE Paul Rudd and this one is pure summer entertainment. 21


Chimichurri chicken wings with spiced rice salad, p24


Skewers for the barbecue Whether you’re cooking in the kitchen or out on the barbie, summer’s the time to get grilling and create a feast with an outdoor vibe. These three kebab recipes are guaranteed to put smiles on faces



Glazed beef kebabs with iceberg slaw, p24


Chimichurri chicken wings with spiced rice salad SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN (OR 1 HOUR IF NO FOOD PROCESSOR)

Make up to the end of step 2, MAKE cover and chill in the fridge AHEAD until ready to cook. Make the salad just before serving. The chimichurri packs FOOD TEAM’S a hefty chilli punch. If you TIPS prefer less spicy food, add only ¼-½ red chilli. Chimichurri is a great sauce for other grilled meats and steak. • 1.5kg free-range chicken wings, tips removed, halved through the joint • 20g sea salt flakes • 2 x 250g pouches microwaveable rice – or 500g freshly cooked long grain rice • 250g cherry tomatoes, halved • ½ red onion, finely chopped • ½ bunch each fresh parsley and coriander, finely chopped, plus extra coriander leaves to serve • 1 large ripe avocado, peeled, stoned and cut in wedges • Lemon wedges to serve FOR THE CHIMICHURRI

• 1 long red chilli, chopped (see tips) • 1½ tbsp each dried oregano and smoked paprika • ½ bunch each parsley and coriander, leaves and stalks chopped • ½ red onion, chopped • 125ml olive oil • 80ml clear honey • 60ml red wine vinegar YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 6 long metal skewers (or wooden skewers soaked in water for at least 30 minutes)

NEXT MONTH Three fab ways with ice cream

1 Put the chicken wings and the salt in a large saucepan, cover with water and put over a high heat. Bring to the boil, then drain immediately and transfer to a tray to cool completely. When cool enough


to handle, thread the chicken wings onto skewers (make sure each piece sits flat to ensure even cooking). Set aside. 2 Meanwhile, for the chimichurri, put all the ingredients in a small food processor and whizz until smooth (or finely chop the chilli, herbs and onion by hand, then mix with the liquids in a bowl). Transfer one quarter of the chimichurri to a bowl and set aside. Brush the remaining chimichurri over the chicken. 3 Heat a griddle pan or gas barbecue to medium-high or light a coal barbecue and wait for the coals to glow white. Grill the skewers, turning frequently, for 12 minutes or until cooked through. 4 To make the rice salad, microwave the rice according to the packet instructions (if using). Toss the rice, tomatoes, onion and herbs with the reserved chimichurri. Put the salad in a serving bowl and top with the sliced avocado and cooked chicken skewers. Serve with lemon wedges and extra coriander. PER SERVING 568kcals, 28.6g fat (5.4g saturated), 40.5g protein, 34.8g carbs (12.8g sugars), 1.1g salt, 4.8g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chimichurri needs a white with bright juicy flavours to stand up to it – go for a South African chenin blanc.

Glazed beef kebabs with iceberg slaw SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

Make the barbecue sauce MAKE AHEAD 24 hours ahead and keep covered in the fridge. Fillet steak is a pricey FOOD TEAM’S option for larger numbers, TIP so we recommend using rump or rib-eye instead – look for meat with good fat marbling for extra flavour and tenderness. • 650g British beef fillet (or see tip), cut into 5cm pieces • 2 tbsp olive oil • 100g shop-bought aïoli (we used Maille brand)

• 70g dill pickled cucumber, finely chopped (or use gherkins) • ½ iceberg lettuce, finely shredded • 1 carrot, shredded or grated (we used a julienne peeler) • 1 green apple, cut into long matchsticks • 1 banana shallot, thinly sliced FOR THE STICKY BARBECUE SAUCE

• 250ml ready-made barbecue sauce • 60ml maple syrup • 1 garlic clove, finely grated • 2 tsp each ground allspice and ground coriander YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 4 long metal skewers (or wooden skewers soaked in water for at least 30 minutes) 1 For the barbecue sauce, put all the sauce ingredients in a saucepan over a medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4-6 minutes or until reduced slightly. Transfer one third to a bowl and set aside to serve later. 2 Heat a griddle pan or gas barbecue to medium-high heat or light a coal barbecue and wait for the coals to glow white. Thread the beef onto the skewers and brush with oil. Put the skewers directly on the griddle or grill, brush with the remaining barbecue sauce and grill, turning frequently and brushing with more sauce, for about 12 minutes for medium-rare or until cooked to your liking. 3 To make the iceberg slaw, combine the aïoli, pickled cucumber and 2 tbsp water in a large bowl. Add the lettuce, carrot, apple and banana shallot and toss to coat. 4 Put the cooked skewers on a platter and serve with the slaw and remaining barbecue sauce. PER SERVING 616kcals, 37.7g fat (8.6g saturated), 36.2g protein, 31.6g carbs (25.9g sugars), 0.8g salt, 3.2g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE It’s hard to beat a soft, ripe, easy-going Aussie red like a shiraz or a cabernet sauvignon with these skewers.




Choose the largest prawns you can find as they're easier to cook on a barbecue.

• 160g laksa paste (available from large supermarkets) • 125ml coconut milk, plus extra to serve • 60ml sunflower oil • 24 sustainable raw king prawns, peeled, but with heads and tails intact (see tip) • Fresh mint leaves, crispy fried shallots or onions (you can get excellent ready-made ones from Sainsbury's and Waitrose) and roti bread to serve YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 8 long metal skewers (or wooden skewers soaked in water for at least 30 minutes) 1 Mix the laksa paste, coconut milk and oil in a bowl. Transfer half the laksa mixture to a separate bowl. Add the prawns and toss to coat. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes or overnight to marinate. 2 Put the remaining laksa mixture in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over a medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes. 3 Heat a griddle pan or gas barbecue to a high heat or light a coal barbecue and wait for the coals to glow white. Thread the marinated prawns onto the skewers and grill, brushing regularly with the warm laksa paste mix, for 2 minutes each side or until just cooked through. 4 Transfer the prawns to a serving platter. Drizzle with extra coconut milk and scatter with mint and shallots or onions. Serve with roti bread and any remaining coconut milk. PER SERVING 216kcals, 16.7g fat (6.1g saturated), 10.9g protein, 5.5g carbs (4.5g sugars), 2.6g salt, 0.1g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chill a bottle of dry but aromatic riesling from New Zealand, Australia or Chile.



A whole plaice makes a spectacular roast, so bring the roasting tin to the table for maximum effect. Sea vegetables are available from some supermarkets in season (which is now), but if you can I’d recommend a trip to the salt marshes to go foraging for sea beet, samphire and sea aster. It’s worth it just to experience the beauty of these unique coastal ecosystems, but coming home with a bag of sea veg, packed with their salty, umami tang, is a bonus. OLIVIA SPURRELL, COOKERY ASSISTANT

NEXT MONTH Mediterranean roast chicken the MasterChef way 26

Whole roast plaice with anchovy & sage butter, new potatoes and sea vegetables SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 50-55 MIN

Sea vegetables are available in Waitrose and Sainsbury’s and from finefoodspecialist. We used samphire and sea aster, but if you can’t find any you can use spinach instead. FOOD TEAM’S TIP

• 500g new potatoes, cut into 1cm rounds • Olive oil to drizzle • Sea salt flakes • 2 lemons, 1 thinly sliced, ½ juiced and ½ cut into wedges to serve • 75g butter, plus an extra knob for frying • 3 fresh sage sprigs, leaves finely chopped, a few reserved whole • 5 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and chopped • 160g mixed sea vegetables (see tip) • 1 large sustainable whole plaice 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Toss the potatoes in a large roasting tin with a good drizzle of oil and season with sea salt and black pepper. Nestle the lemon slices among the potatoes, then roast for 40 minutes, turning halfway through, until golden and crisp. 2 Meanwhile, melt the 75g butter in a sauté pan over a low-medium heat

and fry the reserved whole sage leaves until crisp, then drain on kitchen paper and set aside. Gently heat the butter in the pan until it begins to brown and smell nutty (don’t let it burn). Add a little lemon juice (be careful as it may spit), then stir in the anchovies and chopped sage. Cook for another minute or so until the anchovies start to break down and the sage turns crisp, then transfer to a bowl and keep warm. Don’t wash the pan. 3 Once the potatoes are crisp, lay the whole plaice on top and drizzle with a tablespoon of the anchovy butter. Bake for 10-15 minutes until the fish is just cooked. When you insert a small knife, the delicate flesh should be opaque and flaky. 4 Heat a small knob of butter in the sauté pan and add the sea vegetables. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes until wilted, then season with salt and lemon juice. 5 Once the plaice is cooked, arrange the sea veg around the fish, scatter with the fried sage leaves and drizzle with the remaining anchovy butter. Serve with lemon wedges. PER SERVING 763kcals, 51g fat (25.6g saturated), 33g protein, 40.7g carbs (4.3g sugars), 3.7g salt, 4.5g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Savoury, salty flavours here suit a lighty oaked, slightly smoky white such as a fine Graves bordeaux blanc.


The combination of anchovy and sage is known in Italy as ‘il tartufo di pescatore’ or ‘the fisherman’s truffle’. Add a beautiful buttery whole roast plaice along with waxy new potatoes and salty sea vegetables, and you have a real catch on your hands

weekend highlight.

The recipe hall of fame


Fishcakes are all about thrift, says Debbie Major. They evolved during times when expensive fish needed to be padded out with cheaper ingredients to make money go further. As with many recipes borne out of frugality, they have timeless appeal, making them more than worthy of a slot in our recipe hall of fame THE MASTER RECIPE Cod and parsley fishcakes MAKES 8 FISHCAKES. HANDS-ON TIME

• 150g breadcrumbs, made from day-old white bread (see The Essential Ingredients, right)


Once shaped, the fishcakes MAKE will keep, covered in the AHEAD fridge, for up to 3 days. Fry just before serving, or cool the cooked fishcakes, chill in the fridge, then reheat in a hot oven until piping hot. The tartare sauce will keep for several days in the fridge, covered.

• 150g good quality or homemade mayonnaise • 1½ tsp English mustard • 1 tbsp each finely chopped green olives and gherkins or cornichons • 1 tbsp each finely chopped fresh chives and curly parsley

• 800g floury main crop potatoes, such as king edwards • 800g cod fillet (skin-on) • 25g unsalted butter, melted • 20g fresh curly parsley, leaves chopped • Sunflower oil for deep-frying • 50g plain flour, seasoned, plus extra for coating your hands • 2 medium free-range eggs, beaten

• Digital probe thermometer, potato ricer



1 Combine the tartare sauce ingredients in a small bowl, cover and chill until needed. 2 Peel the potatoes and cut them into large chunks. Put in a pan of well salted cold water (1 tsp salt per 600ml water). Bring to the boil, then cook for 20 minutes until tender. 3 Meanwhile, bring another wide, shallow pan of water to the boil, add the cod fillet and simmer for 8 minutes. Lift the fish onto a plate and, when cool enough to handle, drain away any excess water from the plate, then break fish into flakes, discarding the skin and any bones. 4 Drain the potatoes well and put them back in the pan until the steam has died down and they're quite dry. Pass them through a potato ricer back into the dry pan or tip them back into the pan and mash until smooth. Leave to cool slightly, then

gently stir in the flaked fish, melted butter, chopped parsley and some salt and pepper to taste. 5 Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions. With lightly floured hands, shape the mixture into 8 fishcakes measuring about 8cm across and 2.5cm deep. Carefully transfer to a tray lined with cling film, cover and chill for at least 1 hour to firm up. 6 Heat a large deep pan with oil (no more than half-full) for deep-frying until 180°C (or a cube of breads turns golden in 30-40 seconds). Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/gas 2. Line a baking tray with kitchen paper. 7 Put the seasoned flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs into 3 separate shallow bowls or trays. Coat the fishcakes, one at a time, in the flour, then the beaten egg and finally the breadcrumbs. Deep-fry 2 fishcakes at a time for about 7 minutes, turning them halfway through, until crisp and golden. Transfer to the paper-lined tray and keep hot in the oven while you cook the remaining fishcakes. Serve the fish cakes with the tartare sauce. PER FISHCAKE 337kcals, 10.6g fat (2.9g saturated), 16.2g protein, 23.7g carbs (1.3g sugars), 0.5g salt, 1.8g fibre TARTARE SAUCE (FOR 8) 148kcals, 16.2g fat (2.4g saturated), 0.5g protein, 0.2g carbs (0.2g sugars), 0.2g salt, 0.1g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Pick a subtle French wine, such as a Bordeaux sauvignon blanc or picpoul de pinet.


THE DEFINING CHARACTERSITICS The perfect fishcake should have a soft, fluffy interior studded with plenty of fish, and flavoured with freshly chopped herbs. An even, not-too-thick layer of crisp breadcrumbs and a zingy tartare sauce provide the perfect texture and flavour contrast.

THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS POTATOES A floury main crop potato, such as king edward or maris piper, produces a light, fluffy texture when mashed. Waxy-textured main crop or new potatoes will turn gluey. FISH Good quality fish that’s gently poached and flaked into small bite-size pieces. BREADCRUMBS Use fresh crumbs, ideally made from day-old white bread with the crusts removed. This will give the fishcakes that essential golden, crisp exterior when cooked.


DEBBIE’S TIPS FOR SUCCESS • For dry, fluffy potatoes, drain the cooked potatoes well and leave them just long enough for the steam to disappear before mashing. • Don’t be tempted to add milk to the mash as it will make the mixture too wet and difficult to shape. Butter adds flavour without making the mixture soggy; you could add a little beaten egg instead to help bind the mixture together. • Flake the fish into small chunky flakes, then gently fold them into the potato so they don’t break up. You’re looking for texture, not mush.

HOW TO JAZZ THEM UP • Try pre-soaked fresh or dried salted cod (bacalhau) – just go easy on the seasoning or they will end up being too salty. • For a touch of luxury, add chopped, cooked and peeled North Atlantic prawns, crabmeat, diced lobster or chopped hardboiled egg and capers to the fish and potato mix. • Add a bit of curry powder or a mixture of ground cardamom, turmeric and coriander for a bhaji-like flavour. Or try finely chopped lemongrass, ginger, chilli and fresh coriander. • Go cheesy. Add 75-100g grated cheese to the mashed potato before folding in the fish.

Turn the page for a twist on fishcakes →


Recipe with a twist Smoked haddock and watercress fishcakes MAKES 8 FISHCAKES. HANDS-ON TIME

• 2 medium free-range eggs, beaten • 150g breadcrumbs, made from day-old white bread


Follow the Make Ahead MAKE instructions for the master AHEAD fishcake recipe, p28. If you prefer, you can omit FOOD TEAM’S the crunchy breadcrumb TIP coating and shallow-fry the fishcakes. Make to the end of step 4. Dust in flour and fry 4 in a large nonstick frying pan in a little oil for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden brown and heated through. Keep warm while you fry the rest. • 800g floury main crop potatoes, such as maris piper • 400g undyed smoked haddock fillet • 400g haddock fillet (skin-on) • 3 x 150g bunches fresh watercress • 25g butter • 50g plain flour, seasoned, plus extra for dusting your hands • Sunflower oil for deep-frying

NEXT MONTH Quiche lorraine takes a bow 30

• 150g good quality mayonnaise • 1½ tsp dijon mustard • 1 medium free-range egg, hardboiled, peeled and finely chopped • 1 tbsp each drained, finely chopped gherkins and capers • 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley 1 Combine the ingredients for the gribiche mayonnaise in a small bowl, cover and chill until needed. 2 Cook the potatoes and mash, then poach and flake the fish as in the master recipe, p28. 3 Break off the larger stalks from the watercress (use for soup) and roughly chop the leaves. Melt the butter in a large pan over a mediumhigh heat. Add the watercress and stir for about 1 minute until wilted. Lightly stir into the potatoes with the flaked fish and plenty of seasoning

to taste. Leave the mixture to cool. 4 Divide the mixture and, with lightly floured hands, shape into 8 evensize fishcakes. Put on a tray lined with cling film, cover and chill for at least 1 hour to firm up. 5 Heat the oil for deep-frying as in the master recipe, p28 (or see tip). Put the 50g flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs in 3 separate shallow bowls. Coat the fishcakes one at a time in flour, beaten egg, then breadcrumbs. Deep-fry, 2 at a time, for about 7 minutes, turning halfway through, until crisp and golden. Serve with the gribiche mayonnaise. PER FISHCAKE 361kcals, 11.1g fat (3.1 saturated), 28.2g protein, 35.4g carbs (1.9g sugars), 0.9g salt, 3.4g fibre GRIBICHE MAYO (FOR 8) 151kcals, 15.9g fat (2.3 saturated), 1.5g protein, 0.3g carbs (0.2g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.3g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Try a lightly oaked wine, such as barrel-aged white bordeaux or rioja blanco.

Danish breakfast buns, p36


Long bright days, fresh air, great food on the table, chats and laughter, candles lit as twilight falls and blankets are draped around shoulders… The Scandinavian way of life has a certain aura about it. It’s all about balance, and when summer arrives this food from northern climes bursts into big, bold, colourful life. Mix and match these new recipes from Brontë Aurell and let the sun shine inside as well as out PHOTOGRAPHS PETER CASSIDY FOOD STYLING KATHY KORDALIS STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON

book of the month.

Scandinavians do summer food so well. It’s wholesome, flavoursome, simple to make and naturally beautiful to look at – perfect for enjoying outdoors in a relaxed setting. Whether you’re in the garden with friends or on a family picnic, sharing delicious food outside in the warm weather helps to evoke a magical sense of summer. BRONTË AURELL

Smoked mackerel rillettes with rye crisps SERVES 4 AS A GENEROUS STARTER OR LIGHT LUNCH. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 10-20 MIN

“This is a super-easy dish. Rillettes are spread on toast and are similar to a coarse pâté. They’re usually made with fatty pork (or duck), but I love making rillettes with fish. This recipe also works well with smoked salmon.” Bake the rye crisps several days MAKE AHEAD ahead and store in an airtight container. The mackerel rillettes will keep for 2 days, covered in the fridge. If making your own rye crisps (step BRONTË’S 1), slice the bread very thinly or TIPS they will be too hard to eat once

baked. You may need extra toast as there's a lot of rillettes. Don’t add any salt until you've combined all the ingredients (step 2) as smoked mackerel can be salty. • 8-12 very thinly sliced pieces of rye bread (see tips) or store-bought rye crisps • 200ml crème fraîche • 2 tsp dijon mustard • 3 tbsp chopped fresh chives • Squeeze fresh lime juice • ½ tsp horseradish sauce (optional) • 300g smoked mackerel fillets TO SERVE

• ¼ small fennel bulb • ½ apple • Freshly squeezed lemon juice • Fresh pea shoots


• 4 individual serving glasses or small jars 1 If using rye bread, heat the oven to 140°C/ 120°C fan/gas 1. Bake the rye slices on a baking tray (see tips) for 10-20 minutes until completely dry (see Make Ahead). 2 Mix the crème fraîche with the mustard, chives, lime juice and horseradish (if using). Remove and discard the skin from the mackerel and flake the fish into the crème fraîche mixture. Stir just until mixed (I like my rillettes with chunky bits) or mix a while longer until smoother. Check for seasoning and add black pepper to taste (see tips). Spoon into the serving glasses/jars and chill until ready to serve (see Make Ahead). 3 When ready to serve, slice the fennel and apple very thinly, ideally using a mandoline. Add a squeeze of lemon juice to stop the apple going brown, then mix well. Serve the apple and fennel salad with pea shoots, the mackerel rillettes and the rye toast. PER SERVING 527kcals, 39.2g fat (17.5g saturated), 21.4g protein, 20.7g carbs (3.7g sugars), 2.2g salt, 3.2g fibre → 33

BRONTË’S STORY Londoners know this Danish-born cook,

author, entrepreneur and restaurateur for her renowned café ScandiKitchen in Fitzrovia, which she runs with her Swedish husband Jonas. They’re also getting the Scandi food message out to a bigger audience via an online food shop ( The couple have two young daughters, and this is Brontë’s fourth book.

Warm dill pesto potatoes

(‘grandmother food’). It’s the taste of long summer days at her house in the countryside and all the love that never went away.” The cucumber salad will MAKE keep for 4-5 days, covered AHEAD in the fridge. Add a little Marmite or yeast FOOD TEAM’S extract to the gravy instead TIP of gravy browning for colour, but taste before seasoning as this will add a salty element too. • 1 large bunch fresh flatleaf parsley • 1.5-1.7kg free-range chicken • Coarse sea salt for rubbing • 75g butter • 1 onion, roughly chopped • 2-3 bay leaves • 10-12 black peppercorns • Warm dill pesto potatoes (see recipe, right) and summer greens (optional) to serve FOR THE SOUSED CUCUMBER SALAD

Pot roast chicken with parsley SERVES 4-5. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN,

• 60g caster sugar • 100ml white wine vinegar • 2-3 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill (optional) • 1 cucumber, thinly sliced (use a mandoline if you have one)


“This is an old Danish chicken dish that's traditionally served with baked or new potatoes and agurkesalat (soused cucumber salad). It’s the sort of food known in Denmark as mormormad

• 350-400ml fresh chicken stock, reserved from cooking the chicken • 2 tbsp butter • 1 tbsp plain flour • 150ml single cream • 1 tsp sugar (optional) • Dash gravy browning (optional; see tip) 1 Stuff the entire bunch of parsley (reserving a few sprigs for decoration) into the chicken cavity. Rub the chicken skin all over with the coarse sea salt. Melt the butter in a very large lidded pan or casserole (with enough room for the chicken and then some), then brown the chicken skin all over. Fill the pan with water two thirds of the way up. Add the onion, bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring to the boil, cover with the lid and leave to simmer for

20-25 minutes. Turn the chicken over and cook for another 10-15 minutes (the cooking time depends on the size of the chicken – check that the juices run clear when the thickest point of the thigh is pierced with a skewer). When the chicken is cooked, remove it from the water and transfer to a board to keep warm under foil. Keep the liquid the chicken was cooked in – this will be the stock for your gravy. 2 Meanwhile, make the soused cucumber salad. Put the sugar, vinegar and dill (if using) in a small saucepan along with 100ml cold water and bring to a simmer. When the sugar has dissolved, take off the heat and season generously with salt and pepper. Put the cucumber slices in a heatproof bowl and pour over the liquid. Leave for at least 30 minutes then drain. If it’s too sour, add more sugar. If it’s too sweet, add a dash of vinegar (see Make Ahead). 3 To make the gravy, bring the pan of reserved chicken stock to a full boil and leave to reduce for 10 minutes, uncovered. Strain, measure 400ml, then set aside in a jug. In a smaller saucepan, melt the butter, then stir in the flour over a medium-high heat to make a roux. Gradually stir in the chicken stock as you bring the mixture to the boil (the gravy should be quite thin but you may not need all the stock), then simmer for 5-10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then add the cream – and sugar, if needed. If you prefer a darker gravy, add a few drops of gravy browning (see tip). 4 If you prefer your chicken skin crisper, put it under the grill for a few minutes before serving. Carve the chicken and serve with the parsley, if you wish, along with the soused cucumber salad, gravy, pesto potatoes and summer greens. PER SERVING (FOR 5) 546kcals, 30.6g fat (16.7g saturated), 46.6g protein, 20.3g carbs (17.4g sugars), 1.4g salt, 1.5g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A white with crisp acidity and tangy fruit for the cucumber salad; South African sauvignon blanc is spot on.

book of the month.

Warm dill pesto potatoes SERVES 4 AS A SIDE. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN

“This variation on pesto is super-easy to make and there will be leftovers to use in sandwiches. You can also use it as a topping for salmon fillets before you bake them in the oven. These potatoes work well as part of a barbecue spread too.” Make up to 24 hours ahead, MAKE cover and chill. Bring to AHEAD room temperature to serve. You can keep leftover pesto in the fridge, the surface covered in oil, for up to 1 week. If you don’t have a food FOOD TEAM’S processor, chop the herbs, TIP garlic and walnuts, pound to a paste in a pestle and mortar with the cheese, then mix in the olive oil. • 500g cooked skin-on new potatoes, cooled slightly FOR THE DILL PESTO

• 1 large bunch fresh dill • 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley • ½ garlic clove • 75g shelled walnuts • 50g grated västerbotten cheese (or any hard cheese with a deep flavour, such as mature cheddar) • 50-100ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 In a food processor combine the dill, parsley, garlic and walnuts, then pulse to roughly chop. Add most of the grated cheese and 50ml of the oil and pulse again until you have a finely chopped paste (see tip). 2 Taste and add the rest of the cheese (if needed) and more oil until you have a pesto consistency (not too runny, but liquid enough to use as a dressing). Taste and season. 3 Put the cooked potatoes and a few tablespoons of the pesto in a bowl. Mix until the potatoes are well coated, then serve. PER SERVING 381kcals, 28.6g fat (6.8g saturated), 10.5g protein, 18.6g carbs (1.9g sugars), 0.4g salt, 3.6g fibre →

Pot roast chicken with parsley


READER OFFER You can buy a copy of Brontë’s wonderful book ScandiKitchen Summer (Ryland Peters Small £16.99) for the special price of £11.99 including UK postage & packaging. Call Macmillan Direct on 01256 302699 and quote the code NS4.

“On Sunday mornings in Denmark, someone will usually do the bakery run to pick up fresh bread. We eat a lot of buns, called rundstykker – literally meaning ‘round pieces’, and most bakeries offer many varieties. These ones with poppy seeds are my version of the most popular kind, but you can vary them by using different seeds or mixing in different flours.” The baked buns will keep MAKE AHEAD for up to 2 days in an airtight container. If you want to prove these BRONTË’S buns overnight, use cold TIP liquids and leave overnight in a cool place, then bake first thing in the morning. This mixture is particularly FOOD TEAM’S sticky so to knead the dough TIP properly you'll need to use a stand mixer to achieve the right texture for the baked buns. • 25g fresh yeast or 2½ tsp active dried yeast • 250ml, plus 1 tbsp lukewarm water (35-37°C) • 100ml, plus 1 tbsp lukewarm whole milk (as above) • 2 tbsp caster sugar • 1 tsp salt • 450g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 large free-range egg, beaten, to glaze • Black poppy seeds to sprinkle • Butter, strong cheese and cloudberry jam to serve YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

NEXT MONTH Mary Berry’s best summer bakes

• Stand mixer • 2 baking sheets lined with non-stick baking paper 1 If using fresh yeast, put the lukewarm water, milk and sugar in


the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment (see Food Team’s tip). Add the yeast and let it dissolve. If using active dried yeast, follow the instructions on the packet (usually you whisk the lukewarm liquid and yeast together in a bowl and leave in a warm place for 15 minutes to activate and become frothy before using). Once activated and frothy, pour the mixture into the bowl of the stand mixer, then stir in the sugar until dissolved. 2 Mix the salt into the flour, then add to the stand mixer. Add the oil and mix on a low speed for about 5 minutes, then turn the speed up to high and mix well for about 3 minutes more. The dough will be quite sticky – you can add a little more flour, if needed, to bring it together. Pull off and stretch out a small piece of dough into a square. If it becomes translucent without breaking, then the gluten is well developed and your dough is ready. If not, mix for a little longer. 3 When the dough is ready, cover the bowl with cling film and set aside to rise for at least an hour in a warm place until doubled in size. Dust the work surface with flour, then turn out the dough and knead again briefly. Cut into 12 equal pieces and roll each piece into a neat round bun. Space out evenly on the lined baking sheets, cover with a damp kitchen cloth and leave to prove for an hour (see Brontë’s tip). 4 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Brush each bun with beaten egg and sprinkle with plenty of poppy seeds. Put a roasting tin containing 1 litre water in the bottom of the oven (the steam it creates will help the buns to develop a proper crust). Bake the buns for 8-10 minutes until golden and baked through – you may need to turn the trays halfway through. Let the buns cool a little, then serve warm with butter, strong cheese and a dollop of cloudberry jam. PER BUN 189kcals, 4g fat (0.9g saturated), 6.4g protein, 31.2g carbs (3.1g sugars), 0.5g salt, 1.2g fibre


“This was inspired by my parents-in-law, who live near Gothenburg and have lots of gooseberries in their garden. ” The pastry cream topping MAKE will keep covered in the AHEAD fridge for up to 3 days. This recipe makes more topping than you need; freeze leftovers in a labelled food bag for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge, then put in a stand mixer and use the paddle attachment on a low speed to make it smooth. If you can’t get hold of fresh FOOD TEAM’S gooseberries use a goodTIPS quality ready-made compote or make one with other seasonal berries – but add less sugar and a splash of lemon juice to keep it tart. Use leftover egg yolks to make mayonnaise, or mix with a pinch of salt and freeze in a food bag marked with the number of yolks and the date – use within 3 months. FOR THE PASTRY CREAM TOPPING

• 1 free-range medium egg, plus 1 egg yolk • 30g cornflour • 80g caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp • ¼ tsp salt • 500ml whole milk, plus 2 tbsp • Seeds from 1 vanilla pod • 25g unsalted butter • 300ml whipping/double cream FOR THE MERINGUE LAYER

• 6 free-range egg whites (see tips) • 350g caster sugar • 1 tsp vanilla sugar or the vanilla seeds from 1 pod • 2 tsp cornflour • A few drops vinegar FOR THE GOOSEBERRY COMPOTE

• 300g fresh gooseberries, plus extra to garnish • 2-3 tbsp caster sugar (or to taste) 1 For the pastry cream, whisk the egg and egg yolk in a heatproof bowl with the cornflour, 80g sugar and

book of the month.

salt until well combined, then set aside. Heat the 500ml milk and vanilla seeds in a saucepan until just boiling. Slowly pour one third of the milk into the egg/cornflour mixture, whisking vigorously to combine. Pour the egg/milk mixture back into the pan with the rest of the milk. Whisk continuously and bring to the boil again for around 30 seconds until thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until melted. Pour into a bowl and leave to cool with a layer of baking paper/cling film on top to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate, ideally for a few hours, before using (see Make Ahead). 2 Heat the oven to 120°C/100°C fan/ gas ½. To make the meringue, whisk the egg whites in a very clean bowl using a stand mixer or electric hand mixer until soft peaks form. Slowly whisk in the 350g sugar and vanilla sugar/seeds, bit by bit, then whisk at high speed for 4-5 minutes until the meringue is stiff and glossy and the mixture feels smooth (no crystals) when rubbed between thumb and forefinger. Fold in the cornflour and vinegar using a large metal spoon. 3 Line a baking sheet with non-stick baking paper. Pile the meringue onto the baking sheet in a rough rectangle shape. Bake for 1½ hours or until crisp on the outside. Turn off the oven but leave the meringue inside to cool if you can, with the door propped open with a wooden spoon. 4 Top and tail the gooseberries, then put into a pan with the sugar and a splash of water. Bring to the boil and cook for 3 minutes until the berries are soft. Mash lightly with a fork and taste – they might need more sugar but don’t add too much. Let the compote cool, then chill until needed. 5 Whip the cream and fold into the pastry cream. Put the meringue on a serving plate and pile half the pastry cream mixture on top (see Make Ahead). Top with the gooseberry compote and extra fresh gooseberries to garnish. PER SERVING 504kcals, 21.6g fat (13g saturated), 7.3g protein, 69.3g carbs (64.9g sugars), 0.4g salt, 1.2g fibre

Gooseberry pavlova

THE GREAT FRENCH CYCLING ADVENTURE (with fine food along the way)

In the second part of her delicious. residency, Felicity Cloake travels across La Manche and takes a two-wheeled tour from the Alps to the Atlantic, then serves up un petit menu of seasonal Gallic dishes to entice you into the wonderful taste of France



Food writer in residence No 7

the residency.

Savoyarde bilberry tart, p42


July is, for me, traditionally a month to spend indoors, curtains drawn tightly against the sun, watching a pack of skinny cyclists battle their way up mountains and down the Champs-Elyseés in pursuit of a yolk-yellow Lycra jersey. This perhaps unlikely interest in the Tour de France can be partly attributed to too much time spent hanging around campsite bars as a child, but I’d be lying if I said my passion was purely sporting. Tour champions come and go: the country itself is the real star. I’ve long been in love with France in that clichéd British fashion, its mighty Alpine peaks and wide Atlantic beaches, the lush hydrangeas of Brittany and dark forests of the Ardennes, its style and silly sense of humour, and most of all its food, fiercely regional and treated with a refreshing reverence from Calais to Cassis. Much has been written about the decline in France’s famous culinary culture, and it’s true that you can buy microwaveable burgers as easily as a jambon-beurre these days – but, after numerous, rather more leisurely two-wheeled expeditions of my own, I’m happy to report the provincial restaurant, serving an unfussy three-course menu for less than the price of a London main course, is alive, well and open for business – to everyone from local workmen to hungry cyclists. Sometimes, of course, it’s tempting to bypass them, pack the panniers with ripe fruit sticky with juice, charcuterie and cheese, and have an even cheaper roadside feast instead, but the indulgence of a long lunch is rarely regretted. Here are a few of my favourite discoveries from my very own ‘tour de France’.


This bistro favourite conforms to the unwritten French rule that all salads require copious quantities of either meat or cheese to qualify as such. Salade Lyonnaise is traditionally made with dandelion greens but bitter frisée lettuce makes a good substitute, as does chicory, or indeed a bag of crunchy mixed leaves. Poach the eggs ahead and MAKE AHEAD keep in a bowl of cold water in the fridge. Reheat in a pan of simmering water to serve. • ½ thin baguette • Olive oil • 1 garlic clove, cut in half • 2 curly endive/frisée lettuces (see Felicity’s introduction) • 150g smoked bacon lardons • 1 tbsp dijon mustard • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar • 4 very fresh large free-range eggs 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Cut the baguette into thin slices, arrange on a baking tray and drizzle with olive oil. Bake for 12-15 minutes until crisp, then rub with half a garlic clove and set aside. 2 Wash the lettuce well, shake to →

the residency.

Salade Lyonnaise 41

comfort from the fact historians believe this was once standard practice in the Languedoc, a region where the duck still reigns supreme. My method here is less traditional – but who wants to turn on the oven unnecessarily in summer? Cool the cassoulet and MAKE crumbs separately. Store in AHEAD airtight containers in the fridge for up to 24 hours. Transfer the cassoulet to an ovenproof dish and warm through in the oven until piping hot. Stir in the broad beans, then scatter over breadcrumbs, return to the oven for 5 minutes, then serve. We used thick-sliced FOOD TEAM’S Bayonne ham from the deli TIP section of the supermarket.

SUSY ATKINS’ WINE PICKS A crisp chablis is the ideal partner for the salade Lyonnaise but lemony muscadet is also fine (and cheaper). The moules cry out for a chilled young rosé from Bordeaux, but for the cassoulet open a soft, ripe red from southwest France such as a fitou, corbières or pays d’oc syrah. The tart suits a lighter, crisper golden dessert wine – chill a Loire Valley sweet chenin blanc.

get rid of excess water, then separate the leaves and put on clean tea towels to dry. 3 Heat a dash of oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the lardons until bronzed and crisp. Stir in the mustard, then the vinegar, scraping the pan. Set aside. 4 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Crack in the eggs and turn down the heat to a simmer. Poach for 3 minutes, then scoop out and put on kitchen paper (see Make Ahead). 5 Rub the remaining garlic over the inside of a large serving bowl. Add the salad leaves, then the lardons, and toss well. Divide among 4 bowls, top each with a poached egg and serve with the baguette slices. PER SERVING 334kcals, 19.4g fat (4.9g saturated), 17.9g protein, 21g carbs (1.8g sugars), 2.1g salt, 1.8g fibre

Summer broad bean cassoulet SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR

If using fresh broad beans in place of the usual dried haricots strikes you as sacrilege, take 42

• 765g tin cooked confit duck legs (from large supermarkets) • 4 Toulouse sausages • 750g shelled broad beans (you can use frozen out of season) • 2 onions, finely sliced • 2 carrots, diced • 250g cherry tomatoes • 6 garlic cloves, crushed • 100g cured ham (see tip), cubed • 50g dried breadcrumbs • Leaves from 3 fresh thyme sprigs • Leaves from 2 fresh rosemary sprigs 1 Scoop a tablespoon of the fat from the confit duck tin into a large wide casserole (set aside the rest) and put over a medium heat. When hot, add the sausages and confit duck legs and cook for 12-15 minutes or until golden, making sure the sausages are cooked through. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and set aside. 2 Meanwhile, cook the beans in salted water for 1-2 minutes until just tender (how long will depend on their size), then drain and set aside. 3 Add the onions and carrots to the casserole and cook for 8-10 minutes until beginning to soften, then add the tomatoes and cook until they begin to burst. Stir in the garlic and ham, then cook for 2-3 minutes.

4 Strip the meat from the duck legs, slice the sausages and add both to the pot. Add the beans, season and toss together. Heat through gently. 5 Heat another tablespoon of duck fat in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the breadcrumbs and herbs until the crumbs are crisp and golden (see Make Ahead). Scatter over the casserole and serve. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 574kcals, 27.9g fat (8.4g saturated), 48.3g protein, 25.3g carbs (9.4g sugars), 2.3g salt, 14.2g fibre


The Alps in summer are a pick-your-own bilberry buffet: the bushes line every path, laden with temptingly sweet little fruits. Cultivated blueberries make a great substitute in this simple tart, which is often served with fromage blanc; greek yogurt works equally well. FOOD TEAM’S TIP

This tart is best eaten the day it’s made or the pastry will become soggy.

• 50g ground almonds • 600g bilberries (when in season) or blueberries, washed • 50g brown sugar • Fromage blanc or greek yogurt to serve FOR THE PASTRY

• 250g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 125g cold butter, plus extra to grease • 75g caster sugar • 1 free-range egg yolk, beaten with 3 tbsp cold water YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 26cm fluted loose-bottomed tart tin, lightly greased 1 For the pastry, put the flour in a large bowl and grate in the butter, then rub in with your fingertips to a breadcrumb consistency. Stir in →

the residency.

“This summer cassoulet with duck and Toulouse sausage uses fresh broad beans and cooks on the hob in an hour�

Summer broad bean cassoulet

the residency.


These moules, from where the wild Atlantic meets the Pyrenees, have a distinctly southern flavour. The local chilli powder, piment d’espelette, is easily found online ( but hot, unsmoked paprika makes a good substitute. Discard any uncooked mussels that don’t open when tapped on the work surface. Once they’re cooked, discard any that haven’t opened. We used thick-sliced Bayonne ham, from the supermarket deli section. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS

• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 large pointed red peppers, sliced • 2 garlic cloves, sliced • 8 cherry tomatoes • 75g cured ham (see tips), chopped into small chunks • 500ml dry white wine • 1.5kg mussels, cleaned and de-bearded (see tips) • 1 small bunch fresh flatleaf parsley, roughly chopped • A good pinch piment d’espelette (see Felicity’s introduction) • Baguette to serve

Moules Basquaise

NEXT MONTH Introducing Zoe Adjonyoh of Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen

the caster sugar with a pinch of salt, then slowly mix in the egg mixture until you have a smooth dough (or do this in a food processor). Shape into a disc, wrap in cling film and chill for 15 minutes. 2 Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to about 0.5cm thick, then use to line the tart tin. Prick the base all over with a fork, then chill for at least 30 minutes. 3 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Line the pastry case with non-stick baking paper and ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice and


bake for 15 minutes, then remove the paper and beans/rice and bake for a further 5 minutes until golden. 4 Spread the ground almonds over the base, then add the fruit. Bake for 20 minutes, then sprinkle the sugar over the filling and bake for another 20 minutes. Turn out and serve warm or at room temperature with fromage blanc or greek yogurt. PER SERVING (FOR 8) 373kcals, 17.6g fat (8.8g saturated), 5.8g protein, 46.5g carbs (22.4g sugars), 0.3g salt, 2.4g fibre

1 Heat the oil in a very large lidded saucepan or casserole over a medium heat. Add the onion and peppers, cook until beginning to soften, then add the garlic, tomatoes and ham. 2 Cook until the tomatoes begin to burst and the ham has released its fat, then pour in the wine. Turn up the heat and bring to a simmer. 3 Add the mussels, cover with the lid and cook for 10 minutes until the mussels have opened (see tips), then toss well to distribute the sauce. 4 Sprinkle with the parsley and piment d’espelette and serve with the baguette to mop up the sauce. PER SERVING 230kcals, 10.5g fat (2g saturated), 25.3g protein, 7g carbs (6.1g sugars), 1.7g salt, 3.2g fibre

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food for thought.

Your burning food questionsÉ ANSWERED!

Some cooking queries just aren’t satisfied by the ‘I wonder what happens when I try this…?’ style of kitchen experimentation. We asked, via Twitter and Facebook, for your niggling food-related conundrums, then put the best of them to kitchen guru Debora Robertson (and friends)


Why do recipes still say to sift flour, even though it doesn’t contain weevils any more?


Habit. You really don’t need to. You can combine flour evenly with other ingredients such as baking powder, salt or cocoa effectively and far less boringly just by whisking it. You may want to sift flour to aerate it if you’re making a super-light sponge such as a génoise, but for your low-maintenance cupcake or victoria sponge, ditch the sieve and pick up a whisk.



Why shouldn’t you eat raw crab, although it’s fine to eat raw scallops and other fish?

We do eat raw scallops, oysters and even occasionally mussels if they’re very fresh, though it always involves some degree of risk. I asked John Wright, author of River Cottage Handbook: Edible Seashore (Bloomsbury £14.99), and enthusiastic eater of unusual things, if he ever ate raw crab: “White crabmeat is probably edible raw, but I wouldn’t fancy eating any of the several organs that make up the brown meat – too close to the digestive tract. Many creatures contain parasites beyond bacteria and viruses. I also suspect that none of it would taste too good.” Of the many fishmongers and chefs I asked, they all were in agreement that removing enough raw meat from the shell to make it worth the trouble would be a pain – why bother when it’s so entirely wonderful when lightly cooked? → 47


What makes runny honey turn cloudy and set in the jar? Will it always happen once the lid has been opened for the first time and is there a way to avoid it?


I asked my sweet pal, Hattie Ellis, author of Spoonfuls of Honey (Pavilion £20), and she said: “Honey is naturally unstable and is always susceptible to crystallisation, depending on nectar sources, time and temperature. It’s not a sign of poor quality or spoilage and it can happen whether the jar’s opened or not, but keep the lid on once opened and store at room temperature. You can put the jar in a bowl of hottish water for 15 minutes or so to make it more liquid.”



Why do you never get hot padrón peppers any more?

I’ve been lamenting this lack of dinnertime jeopardy myself, so I asked Steve Waters from the South Devon Chilli Farm ( He said: “There are new varieties now that give growers a longer season with mild fruits. The original padrón peppers quickly moved on to hot, after the mild, light-green stage. And as demand has increased, more of the fruit is likely to be smaller, less mature peppers, which are less likely to have heat.” For heat addicts, South Devon Chilli Farm sell a special hot pack of padróns.


Is it true that, unlike cured continental sausages, British bangers don’t carry the same cancer risk?


The World Health Organisation gave us all a shock in 2015 when it claimed processed meat such as sausages carried the same health risk as smoking, but this report largely referred to cured sausages, which are hung for 12-15 days and contain nitrates and nitrites. In this country we’re more likely to eat our sausages fresh so they usually don’t contain these preservatives, which are what represent the greatest risk to health. 48


Is some salt ‘saltier’ than others?


All salt is sodium chloride, no matter what the fancy label says. Regular table salt is highly refined and because the grains are small, you can’t use it interchangeably by volume with flaky salts – a tablespoon of table salt will make a dish a lot saltier than the same measure of flaky sea salt. Posh salts, such as Maldon and fleur de sel, are really finishing salts, added right at the end so you can best enjoy their textures and flavours – no need to use them to cook pasta, unless you love pouring money down the drain.

food for thought.


Is the red stuff in meat actually blood?


No. When you look at recently cut raw red meat, you’re seeing a combination of the myoglobin, an iron and oxygen-binding protein found in muscle tissue, and its relation – haemoglobin, which is the similar iron and oxygenbinding protein found in blood. Raw meat is about 70 per cent water, so when you cook it, the tissues contract and release water and myoglobin, which is deeply pigmented (the more myoglobin meat contains, the redder it will be). As the meat’s temperature rises above 60°C, the myoglobin proteins start to solidify and turn brown – when the meat’s temperature exceeds 75°C its juices will no longer run red/pink.



Is it true you should never put salt in the cooking water when you’re boiling pulses?

Why do some recipes require unsalted butter? Is it personal preference, or does it make a difference to the end result?


I had long been a non-salter of pulses, which is weird as I practically worship at the altar of salt, but I bought into the received wisdom that salt made them tough. Then I read in On Food and Cooking (Hodder & Stoughton £39.99), the scholarly tome by food scientist Harold McGee, that he salts both the soaking water (2 tsp per litre of water) and then lightly salts the cooking water too. I do this all of the time now and find pulses cook more quickly and have more flavour.


Salted butter is my go-to for spreading on bread (I’m a fan of the Danish concept of tandsmør, or tooth butter, which means it’s thick enough to see your teeth marks in it, and a decent forensic dentist could make those charges stick). Unsalted is preferred for baking (particularly pastry) because it lets you regulate the amount of salt in the recipe, but I’m pretty sure I didn’t encounter unsalted butter until I was about 20 and managed quite well without it. If you only have salted in the fridge, don’t let it put you off making that recipe, just add less salt.

“Curiosity is the hunger of the human mind.”



Why has butter become more expensive?

The price of butter certainly rocketed last year. After the drop in milk prices in 2016, many farmers went bust or quit dairy farming. The fall in production coincided with a trend for ditching vegetable spreads and a rise in demand for butter as we stopped demonising it on health grounds and began recognising it for the magnificent treasure that it is.

CHERRIES WE SALUTE YOU! British cookery expert Debbie Major conjures up recipes that showcase summer’s much adored but short-lived fruit. Cherries are having a proper revivial – and about time too PHOTOGRAPHS & STYLING KATE WHITAKER FOOD STYLING ELIZABETH FOX

seasonal inspiration.

Our native cherries are so magnificent that they’re worth worshipping during the whole of their season – especially as it’s so short. These plump, heart-shaped fruit have just the right balance of sweetness and acidity, so they work well in sweet and savoury dishes. And if you don’t have time to cook them, no problem. Eat them as they are, at room temperature, with a mild blue cheese and oatcakes for a match made in heaven. DEBBIE MAJOR

Italian cherry and almond tart, p54 51

Pan-seared pork tenderloin with cherry and red wine sauce SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN

This cut of pork gives you all the flavour of a roast in a fraction of the time. The sweet and sour cherry sauce is the perfect accompaniment, along with the thyme and garlic roasties. • 1 tsp dried thyme • 2 x 450-500g pork tenderloins (also sold as pork fillet), well trimmed • 1 tbsp olive oil FOR THE CHERRY SAUCE

• 30g granulated sugar • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 300ml fruity red wine, such as beaujolais • 1 tbsp olive oil • 50g finely chopped shallots • 150ml chicken stock • 300g cherries, stalks removed, pitted • ¾ tsp arrowroot • 1 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste FOR THE ROAST GARLIC & THYME POTATOES

• 3 tbsp duck fat, goose fat or lard • 1 small garlic bulb, separated into cloves • 1kg charlotte potatoes, quartered lengthways into wedges • 2 large fresh thyme sprigs

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/ gas 7. For the cherry sauce, put the sugar and 1 tbsp water in a small stainless steel pan (to help you to judge the caramel colour). Dissolve over a low heat, then increase the heat and cook without stirring until it has turned to a brick-red caramel. 2 Remove from the heat, stand back and add the vinegar (it will sputter). Return to the heat, stir in the wine and boil rapidly until reduced by half. Meanwhile, heat the 1 tbsp oil in a medium pan with a lid. Add the chopped shallots and cook for 4-5 minutes over a medium heat until softened and lightly golden. Add the 52

caramel/red wine and the stock, then boil until reduced to 150ml. 3 Add the cherries to the sauce, cover and simmer for 3 minutes or until just tender. Mix the arrowroot with 1 tsp cold water, stir into the sauce and simmer for a few seconds until thickened. Stir in the lemon juice, taste and season. Keep warm over a low heat. 4 Put the fat for the potatoes in a large non-stick roasting tin and heat in the oven for 5 minutes. 5 Meanwhile, for the pork, rub the 1 tsp dried thyme and some salt and pepper all over both pork fillets. Heat a large heavy-based frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add 1 tbsp oil and the pork, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 25-30 minutes, turning every 5 minutes, until browned on all sides and cooked through but still juicy in the centre. Put on a carving board, cover with foil and leave to rest for 10 minutes. 6 Meanwhile, crack each garlic clove open using the flat side of a cook’s knife but leave in their skins. Remove the tin heating in the oven and toss in the potatoes, garlic, thyme and some salt and pepper. Toss well, spread the potatoes in an even layer and roast for 25-30 minutes, turning halfway through. 7 Carve the pork diagonally into chunky slices and serve with the sauce, potatoes, garlic (people can squeeze out the soft cloves as they eat) and your choice of greens. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 514kcals, 15.3g fat (4.5g saturated), 37.4g protein, 44.8g carbs (13g sugars), 0.3g salt, 5g fibre WINE EDITOR’S NOTES Juicy, fruity, red-berryish reds suit this so stick with the beaujolais or a Chilean/ New Zealand pinot noir.


A conserve is a softer-set jam with a higher proportion of whole pieces of fruit. It’s my favourite style and is perfect for dolloping on buttery croissants.

Cherries have a very low

DEBBIE’S pectin content. To ensure a TIPS

good set, I’ve boosted their setting properties using lemon juice and a mixture of granulated sugar and jam sugar (the latter is sugar with added pectin). For more jammaking tips see delicious. Kitchen. • 1.5kg cherries, stalks removed • 650g jam sugar • 750g granulated sugar • Juice 2 large lemons (6 tbsp) YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 5 x 350g jars with lids (or cellophane discs); waxed paper discs USEFUL BUT NOT ESSENTIAL…

• Jam funnel; cherry pitter (the food team like the OXO Softworks pitter, from Argos) 1 Wash the cherries and dry them well on a clean tea towel. Working over a bowl so you collect the juices, remove their stones. Using a cherry pitter is by far the quickest way (see above), but you can cut the cherries open and remove the stones with the tip of a small sharp knife. 2 Put the pitted cherries and the jam sugar in a large mixing bowl and stir together well. Set aside for at least 3 hours, stirring now and then, to encourage the juices and sugar to produce a syrup. Put the granulated sugar in a heatproof mixing bowl. 3 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/ gas 2. Put 3-4 small saucers in the freezer and wash the jars. Put them in the oven with the bowlful of sugar and leave for 15 minutes for the jars to sterilise and the sugar to warm. 4 Transfer the cherries and syrup to a large stainless steel pan, add the lemon juice and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 5-7 minutes until the fruit is just tender. Add the ovenwarmed granulated sugar and stir gently over a low heat until the sugar has completely dissolved (take care not to overcook the fruit – keep the cherries as intact as possible). 5 When the sugar has dissolved, increase the heat and bring to a steady boil. Boil without stirring →

seasonal inspiration.

Pan-seared pork tenderloin with cherry and red wine sauce Cherry negroni

PRESERVE THE BOUNTY CHERRIES IN GRAPPA A great way to use a surplus of cherries is to steep them in grappa – it’s delicious in cocktails and the cherries make tantalising treats. How to do it Put 500g washed and pitted cherries in a clip-top jar. Cover with 500ml grappa, seal and leave somewhere cool and dark for 6 months. CHERRY NEGRONI Put 6 ice cubes in a glass tumbler. Pour over 20ml each of homemade cherry grappa, Campari, Cinzano Rosso (red sweet vermouth) and add a strip of pared orange zest. CHOCOLATE GRAPPA CHERRIES Dry the leftover grappa cherries well on kitchen paper, then dip in melted dark chocolate to make boozy after-dinner petits fours.

Swiss cherry conserve

for 6-8 minutes, then check for setting point. To do this, take the pan off the heat, spoon a little jammy syrup onto a chilled saucer, then return it to the freezer for 4 minutes. Push your finger through the jam – if it wrinkles up into a peak with no liquid running onto the saucer, it’s ready. If it doesn’t, return the pan to the heat and boil for another 2 minutes more, then retest. 6 Remove the jam from the heat and leave to cool slightly until, when you stir it, the scum disappears and the cherries stay suspended in the syrup (about 15-20 minutes). 7 Pour the jam into hot sterilised jars (use a funnel or jug – and take care), filling them to within 3-6mm of the rim. Immediately cover the surface of the jam with waxed discs, then lids (or cellophane discs with a rubber band) while still hot. Label and store in a cool dark place. The jam will keep for at least a year. PER TBSP 36kcals, no fats, 0.1g protein, 8.9g carbs (8.9g sugars), no salt, 0.1g fibre

Italian cherry and almond tart SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 2½ HOURS, PLUS CHILLING

I love fruity frangipane tarts made with whatever’s in season. I grind the almonds myself for more texture and flavour. If you don’t have a food processor use ready-ground almonds and mix the filling by hand in a mixing bowl. FOOD TEAM’S TIP


• 175g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 50g icing sugar, plus extra to dust • 90g chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces • 1 medium free-range egg yolk • 1 tbsp ice cold water FOR THE FILLING

• 175g unsalted butter, softened • 175g caster sugar • 175g blanched whole almonds • 2 medium free-range eggs 54

• 400g cherries, stalks removed and pitted

Roasted buttered cherries with orange sabayon and toasted almonds



• 23cm fluted loose-bottomed flan tin, 3cm deep 1 For the pastry, sift the flour, icing sugar and a pinch of salt into a food processor. Add the butter and whizz until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs (or rub the butter into the flour in a mixing bowl, then stir in the icing sugar). In a small bowl beat the egg yolk with the cold water. Tip the crumbs into a mixing bowl, add the yolk and bring together into a ball. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead briefly until smooth. Chill for 30 minutes, then roll out thinly on a lightly floured surface and use to line the flan tin. 2 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6 with a baking sheet on the middle shelf. Line the pastry case with foil and a thin layer of ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice and bake for 15 minutes or until the edges are biscuit-coloured. Remove the foil and beans/rice and bake for a further 5-7 minutes until the base of the case is crisp and golden brown. Remove and set aside. Turn the oven down to 150°C/130°C fan/gas 3. 3 For the filling, cream the butter and sugar in a mixing bowl until fluffy. Put the almonds into the (clean) bowl of the food processor and process until finely ground (see tip). Add the butter and sugar mixture and blend, then whizz in the eggs, one at a time. 4 Arrange the cherries over the base of the pastry case. Dollop the filling over the top of the fruit and spread out evenly, skimming the tops of the cherries with a spatula so they just show through the mixture. Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes, turning the tin during baking so it cooks evenly, until richly golden brown and cooked through. Serve warm or at room temperature, dusted with icing sugar and cut into wedges. PER SERVING (FOR 10) 505kcals, 33.5g fat (15.1g saturated), 8.6g protein, 41.7g carbs (27.8g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.2g fibre

Despite its fancy name, a sabayon is simply a mousse of wine, eggs and sugar. Served warm, over hot roasted sweet cherries, it’s like eating a soft billowy cloud. • 700g ripe cherries, stalks removed and pitted • 50g caster sugar • 60g unsalted butter, melted • 20g toasted flaked almonds FOR THE SABAYON

• 6 large free-range egg yolks • 80g caster sugar • 150ml dessert wine (we used muscat beaumes de venise) • Finely grated zest 1 orange YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 1 large or 4 individual shallow ovenproof gratin dishes and a cook’s blow-torch (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Put the cherries in the gratin dish/es, sprinkle over the sugar, then drizzle with the butter. Roast for 15 minutes until just tender. 2 Meanwhile, for the sabayon, put the egg yolks, sugar, wine and orange zest into a large heatproof bowl and rest it over a pan of just-simmering water, making sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Whisk vigorously (by hand or with an electric hand mixer) for about 8 minutes until thick and foamy and almost tripled in volume. 3 Spoon the sabayon over the hot roasted cherries, then scorch the surface here and there using a cook’s blowtorch, if you wish. Scatter with the almonds and serve. PER SERVING 493kcals, 23.8g fat (10.4g saturated), 7.4g protein, 54.2g carbs (54.1g sugars), 0.1g salt, 2.6g fibre For more clever ways to use muscat beaumes de venise, see Loose Ends

seasonal inspiration.


These are roasted and buttered with orange sabayon and toasted almonds

NEXT MONTH Rick Stein’s summer shellfish recipes


Broad beans

Hidden inside scruffy pods are the bean world’s most tender gems. Release them from their fur-lined cladding and enjoy their versatility… Eat tender young beans blanched in their skins, then tossed with olive oil and sea salt. If you’re feeling showy (or using older beans), remove the skins as well to reveal the beans’ vivid green flesh. Here I’ve used broad beans to add colour and flavour to my twist on tabbouleh. I’ve also devised a recipe that saves the hassle of podding: char them whole and eat like edamame for a summer treat. JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

what’s good now.

Broad bean tabbouleh salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

The salad tastes best made MAKE a day ahead (keep covered AHEAD in the fridge), giving the flavours a chance to mingle, but add the beans at the last minute or they’ll lose their bright green colour. To make this salad glutenFOOD TEAM’S free use cooked quinoa or TIP buckwheat instead of bulgur wheat. • 25g bulgur wheat (see tip) • 200g podded broad beans (650-750g in their pods) • 1 tbsp za’atar spice mix • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • Juice ½-1 lime • ½ small garlic clove, grated • Bunch spring onions, chopped • 1 ripe beef tomato, chopped • Large bunch fresh parsley, chopped • Small bunch fresh mint, leaves picked and chopped • Sumac for sprinkling

pan until aromatic, then cool. 3 Put the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, lime juice (add to your taste) and garlic with plenty of seasoning in a jar, put the lid on and shake to combine. Mix the toasted za’atar, spring onions, tomato, herbs, bulgur wheat and beans in a bowl with the dressing, spoon into a serving dish, then sprinkle with the sumac. PER SERVING 196kcals, 12.9g fat (1.2g saturated), 1.9g protein, 12g carbs (3.8g sugars), trace salt, 6.9g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Pick a fresh, dry white such as an English bacchus or Touraine sauvignon blanc. →

WHAT TO LOOK FOR Choose pods that feel firm, with no large air pockets. Avoid any with dark blemishes. The beans from young pods (7-8cm) can be eaten whole but they’re usually harvested when they’re a bit older and have had time to grow and fill the pods. Beans from larger, older pods are best with their outer skins removed. The skin at the edge of each bean should be green or white – if it’s turned black it’s past its best and will be tough when cooked. Freeze podded beans in a freezer bag and cook from frozen. Keep fresh pods in a paper bag in the fridge for up to 5 days.

1 Put the bulgur wheat in a pan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 15 minutes until tender. Drain and set aside. 2 Meanwhile, blanch the podded beans in a pan of boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Toast the za’atar in a dry frying 57

what’s good now.

Charred broad beans with soy & mirin dressing and smoked chilli salt SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

If you can’t find smoked salt, use regular sea salt flakes and add before you grill for extra flavour. FOOD TEAM’S TIP

NEXT MONTH Get creative with sweetcorn

• 500g broad beans in their pods • Olive oil for brushing • Juice 1 lime • 1 tbsp tamari


• 1 tbsp mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine, from the world food section of large supermarkets) • 1 tsp Maldon smoked sea salt flakes (see tip) • Large pinch chilli flakes 1 Heat a barbecue or griddle pan until hot. Brush the pods all over with oil. Cook for 5-8 minutes, turning once, until the pods are charred on both sides and the beans inside are tender. 2 In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, tamari and mirin. Arrange

the pods on a platter (or a tray lined with baking paper) and toss with the smoked salt and chilli flakes, then splash with the dressing and serve the rest on the side. Pod the beans at the table and enjoy with the extra dressing. PER SERVING 101kcals, 6g fat (0.6g saturated), 3g protein, 6.7g carbs (2.5g sugars), 1.8g salt, 4.1g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A fruity white with a surge of citrus – make it an Aussie dry riesling or New Zealand/Chilean sauvignon blanc.

0800 789 789 |

what’s good now.

Gill Meller A COOK’S YEAR During his 11 years at River Cottage, our resident columnist has made an art of knowing how to show off seasonal food to its best advantage. This month he turns his attention to trout in all its fresh and flavoursome glory


DIY HOT-SMOKED TROUT Hot-smoked trout is a real delicacy. You can pick it up ready to go from the supermarket, buy online from a good supplier such as, or smoke it yourself. Here’s how… • 4 large fresh brown trout fillets, pin boned • Mini stove-top hot smoker (from • Wood chips for smokers (from garden centres, larger supermarkets or online at

Hot-smoked trout, new potato & beetroot salad with dill and horseradish SERVES 3-4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN

Prepare the salad a few MAKE hours ahead and keep AHEAD covered somewhere cool or in the fridge. Bring back to room temperature and toss with the dressing just before serving.


• 200g fine salt • 100g unrefined golden caster sugar • Cracked black pepper 1 Combine the cure ingredients in a glass/ceramic bowl. Lay the trout fillets on a large glass or ceramic plate, sprinkle with the cure mixture and set aside for 25-30 minutes. As well as seasoning the fish, the salt draws out some of the moisture in the fish and firms up the texture of the fillets. 2 Rinse the salt off the fish using a big bowl of cold, fresh water, then pat dry with kitchen paper. 3 Set up the hot smoker with the wood chips and heat on the hob in a well ventilated kitchen (or on a gas or coal barbecue), then lay the fish in and put the lid on. Smoke the fish for 8-10 minutes over a medium heat or until just cooked through. Or you could use smoking cooking bags (from – there’s a sachet of wood chips in each bag. Put the fish inside and cook in the oven at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 for about 10 minutes. You can see through the bag if the fish is cooked.

• 4 smallish uncooked beetroot, trimmed and scrubbed • Olive oil for drizzling • 400g new potatoes, such as jersey royals or cornish earlies • 200g hot-smoked trout, skin removed and flaked into large pieces • Lemon juice to serve FOR THE DRESSING

• 2 tbsp hot horseradish sauce • 2 tbsp thick natural yogurt • 2 tsp sugar • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 small bunch fresh dill, chopped, a few fronds reserved to finish 1 Put all the dressing ingredients in a jar with a tight fitting lid. Shake vigorously to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning, sweetness

or acidity as you want to. 2 Put the beetroot in a saucepan, cover with salted water and bring to the boil. Cook for 25-30 minutes or until they take the point of a knife with ease. Drain the beetroot and, when they’re cool enough to handle, slip off their skins, cut them into bite-size pieces and put them in a bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. 3 Meanwhile, scrub the potatoes, cut them into bite-size pieces, then put in a pan of salted water and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10-12 minutes or until tender. Drain and, while still warm, toss with 1 tbsp of the dressing, season with salt and pepper and allow to cool a little. 4 Tip the dressed potatoes onto a serving platter. Arrange the beetroot over the top, followed by the smoked trout. Spoon the dressing over the salad and finish with a scattering of feathery dill sprigs, a squeeze of lemon juice, some sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper. PER SERVING (FOR 4) 246kcals, 8.9g fat (1.7g saturated), 14.4g protein, 25.2g carbs (10.5g sugars), 1.4g salt, 3.6g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE An Alsace pinot blanc or good Italian pinot grigio are the best matches here.

TROUT LOVES… Salty things like bacon, pancetta, tamari, soy and miso. • Sharp flavours from ingredients such as morello cherries, currants, rhubarb and gooseberries. • Rich sauces made with wine, herbs, butter and cream or simpler flavours like horseradish, mayonnaise, crème fraîche and mustard. 62


I pull up at the disused petrol station and get out of my car. A man takes a white plastic bag from the boot of his Volvo and hands it to me. I hand him cash in return, then turn and begin to walk back to my vehicle. As I open the door he shouts, ‘Same again next week?’ I give him a thumbs-up and we go our separate ways. This is not the usual way I procure my ingredients, but I wish more of my food shopping could be done like this. I arrive home in possession of two brown trout so fresh they could almost still be alive. The fish have just been caught from the clean waters of a large stocked reservoir in east Devon. They’re big, strong and full of flavour. I’m a fan of these freshwater farmed fish. They’re a welcome alternative to farmed salmon and because trout are farmed in a closed system they’re not thought to have the same environmental implications for our aquatic ecosystems as farmed salmon. They’re not hard to find, either. There are trout farms with lovely clean water that produce fine fish, so it’s worth searching out good farms or farmshops close to you.

what’s good now.

4 MORE IDEAS FOR TROUT • Newspaper-baked trout is something we’ve done at River Cottage for years. Lay the fish on some newspaper (3 sheets if it’s a tabloid, 2 for a broadsheet) with herbs, butter and seasoning, then wrap it up to form a snug parcel. Soak the parcels in water until wet through. Put on the barbecue for 15 minutes until the paper is charred and starting to flame and the fish is cooked through. • Potted trout is great spread on malted toast. Bake the fish whole in a baking dish with a few large knobs of butter for 15-20 minutes. When it’s still warm, flake the meat off the bone (discard bones/skin) into a small bowl along with the buttery baking juices, some ground mace, cayenne pepper, lemon and salt and pepper to taste. It keeps for days in the fridge. • Scoop out the flesh from 4 hot baked jacket potatoes into a bowl, add cream cheese, butter, dill, parsley and chives and, finally, some flaked cooked trout. Mix, then spoon back into the skins. Grill for 5 minutes and serve. • Remove the tiny pin bones from 2 trout fillets. Put the fillets in a glass or ceramic dish, sprinkle with a mix of 2 tbsp fine sea salt, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp chopped dill and ½ tbsp crushed black pepper. Cover with cling film and leave for 24 hours. Wash the cure off in a big bowl of cold, fresh water, then thinly slice and serve with rye bread and horseradish sauce.



Here’s how: visit cookery-courses to see the full cookery school diary then, when you book, enter the code DELICIOUS to receive your discount. The offer is valid until 31 July 2018 and can be used on any River Cottage course during 2018.*

NEXT MONTH Gill gets clever with rabbit

Pomegranate spritz, p66


The bring-and-share book lovers’ feast What’s not to like about a book club – especially when getting together with friends to discuss a novel’s merits (or otherwise) is accompanied by great food and a cocktail or two? Food editor Jen Bedloe and her co-conspirators turned their book club into a food moment to remember – and now you can do the same



Cumin-cured salmon, p70

MENU FOR 8 Pomegranate spritz Green houmous with smoked almond dukkah Cumin-cured salmon

Zhoug lamb with ras el hanout Fruit and herb buckwheat salad Roasted baby carrot salad with creamy feta dressing

Orange blossom, lemon thyme and almond cake with rosé red berries 65

Of all the dates in my diary, book club with my friends is the one I most look forward to. Every six weeks we gather at one of our houses to air our opinions about the chosen book. Over a meal (we’ve had everything from pizza nights to a raclette evening) and with a decent bottle of fizz or two, we exercise the grey matter – and our taste buds. This time it was my turn to host and I’d chosen John Fowles’ novel The Collector (Vintage Classics £8.99), a creepy thriller first published in 1963 but which feels so current it could have been written this year. To make things more manageable, each of us cooked one of deputy food editor Sophie Austen-Smith’s Middle Eastern-influenced recipes. It’s the ideal share-the-cooking menu as all the food can be prepped ahead... I hope you enjoy it as much as we all did! JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR

Who’s in the book club? Friends Clare Gowar, Kate Lingard, Caroline Riddy, Melanie Flood, Charlie Tillet, Clare Gossage, Sophie Thorp, Claire Shorter – and, of course, Jen, who organised everything and allocated dishes to cook. Clare Gowar was let off the hook as she was rushing straight from work. Only the fizz was rustled up at the last minute – Caroline’s speciality. Each recipe tester gave their verdict on Sophie’s dishes…

Pomegranate spritz MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN

This Middle Eastern spin on buck’s fizz is a great summer cocktail. MADE BY CAROLINE RIDDY You can make the base mix MAKE (step 1) a few hours ahead AHEAD and chill until ready to serve. Scale up the recipe in line FOOD TEAM’S with how many bottles of TIP prosecco you’re serving. • 200ml orange juice • 120ml pomegranate juice • 150ml gin • 3 limes • 75cl bottle prosecco (see tip) • Pomegranate seeds to serve 1 Mix together the orange and pomegranate juices, gin and lime juice in a jug (see Make Ahead). 2 Pour into glasses, top up with prosecco and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds. PER SERVING 130kcals, no fat, 0.5g protein, 5.3g carbs (5.3g sugars), no salt, 0.2g fibre

Green houmous with smoked almond dukkah SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, COOKING TIME 15 MIN

The addition of summer-fresh peas and broad beans make this houmous so light and fresh. MADE BY CHARLIE TILLET


• 100g smoked almonds, roughly chopped • 1 tbsp sesame seeds • 1 tsp coriander seeds, bruised in a pestle and mortar • 1 tsp cumin seeds, bruised in a mortar and pestle • 1 tsp sumac 1 Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook the broad beans for 4 minutes or until tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and refresh under cold water, then nick the skin on the side of each bean with your fingernail and pop out the bright green bean within (discard the skins). 2 Put the beans and peas in the bowl of a food processor. Add the chickpeas, tahini, garlic, lemon zest and juice and whizz to a thick paste. Add 2-3 tbsp water to loosen, if you think it needs it. Season. 3 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/ gas 7. Brush the flatbreads with a little oil and season well. Spread out on a baking sheet and bake for 8-10 minutes, turning once, until crisp. 4 For the dukkah, put all the ingredients in a large frying pan over a medium heat and toast, stirring occasionally, until lightly coloured and fragrant. Set aside to cool. 5 Serve the houmous topped with dukkah and olive oil, with flatbreads and extra dukkah on the side. PER SERVING 262kcals, 14.8g fat (1.7g saturated), 11.3g protein, 17.1g carbs (1.8g sugars), 0.2g salt, 7.6g fibre

Make to the end of step 4. MAKE The houmous and dukkah AHEAD will keep for up to 24 hours in separate airtight containers in the fridge.

Zhoug lamb with ras el hanout

• 100g broad beans • 200g petits pois, defrosted • 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed • 3 tbsp tahini • 1 garlic clove, crushed • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 4 flatbreads, cut into wedges • Olive oil for brushing and drizzling

Ready-made zhoug paste is such a simple way to add flavour to dishes. It’s good with white fish and roasted veg, too.



Marinate the lamb up to MAKE 24 hours ahead, covered AHEAD in the fridge. Bring to room temperature before cooking.


Ask your butcher to butterfly the lamb for you (or see our video at deliciousmagazine. It needs to be about the same thickness all over so it cooks evenly. FOOD TEAM’S TIP

Houmous with a colourful twist

• 4 garlic cloves, chopped • 4 tbsp zhoug paste (we used Belazu) • 2 tsp ras el hanout, plus extra to serve • 1 green chilli, sliced • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • Handful each fresh coriander and parsley, leaves picked, stalks chopped separately • 4 tbsp olive oil • 1.25kg British lamb leg, boned and butterflied (see tip) 1 Make a marinade by whizzing the garlic, zhoug, ras el hanout, green chilli, lemon zest and juice and the chopped coriander and parsley stalks in a food processor. (Or grind to a coarse paste in a large pestle and mortar.) Add a good pinch of salt and pepper, then stir in the olive oil to make a loose paste. 2 Prick the lamb all over with the point of a small, sharp knife and rub with the marinade. Transfer to a sealable plastic food bag, squeezing out any air, and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 3 hours, or overnight if you can. 3 Remove the lamb and let it come to room temperature (this will take 2-3 hours), then transfer to a baking tray. 4 Once you’re ready to cook, heat the grill to medium and cook the lamb for 8-10 minutes on each side. Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3, then roast the lamb on its tray for 10 minutes. Remove and let the meat rest for at least 10 minutes. 5 Once rested, lift onto a chopping board, slice thickly and scatter with the herb leaves, a sprinkling of ras el hanout and any cooking juices. PER SERVING 314kcals, 20.3g fat (6.5g saturated), 31.9g protein, 0.6g carbs (0.2g sugars), 0.5g salt, 0.5g fibre For more ways to use zhoug paste, see Loose Ends →

Aromatic Middle Eastern lamb 67

Fruit and herb buckwheat salad SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN

I love this sweet, salty flavour combo. I cooked the buckwheat the day before, then added the fresh ingredients just before we ate. COOKED BY SOPHIE THORP Make the salad to the end MAKE AHEAD of step 1 and chill up to 24 hours ahead in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature to finish the recipe.

Fruit and herb buckwheat salad and roasted baby carrots with creamy feta dressing


• 375g buckwheat • 1 good quality vegetable stock cube • 4 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses • Grated zest and juice ½ lemon • 1 preserved lemon, pulp removed and discarded, finely chopped (we used Belazu, from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose) • 75g golden raisins • 75g green olives, roughly chopped • 50g shelled unsalted pistachios, roughly chopped • Handful fresh mint leaves, chopped • Small handful fresh dill, chopped 1 Put the buckwheat in a large pan with the stock cube, cover with cold water and cook according to the buckwheat pack instructions. Put in a bowl and allow to cool a little. Stir in the olive oil, pomegranate molasses, lemon zest and juice, and preserved lemon. Season and allow to cool (see Make Ahead). 2 Once cool, stir in the remaining ingredients to serve. PER SERVING 313kcals, 10.8g fat (1.5g saturated), 5.7g protein, 47.1g carbs (7.9g sugars), 1.1g salt, 2g fibre

Roasted baby carrot salad with creamy feta dressing SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN

I’ll definitely be making this again. It’s great to find a new salad idea for entertaining COOKED BY CLAIRE SHORTER

Roast the carrots and make MAKE the dressing up to 24 hours AHEAD in advance. Keep chilled in separate airtight containers. Bring to room temperature to assemble. • 500g baby or chantenay carrots, trimmed • A few glugs olive oil • 100g feta • 150ml plain yogurt • 50g breadcrumbs • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 2 little gem lettuces, cut into wedges 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Toss the carrots in a roasting tin with a glug of olive oil and roast for 25 minutes or until just tender. Allow to cool to room temperature. 2 Crumble the feta into a bowl and whisk in the yogurt until smooth, then loosen the mixture with 4 tbsp water. Season well with black pepper. 3 Heat a glug of olive oil in a frying pan, add the breadcrumbs and fry until just golden, then stir in the crushed garlic and transfer to a plate to cool. 4 To serve, assemble the carrots and lettuce on a platter or serving dish, drizzle over a little of the feta dressing and sprinkle with garlicky breadcrumbs. Serve the remaining feta dressing on the side. PER SERVING 122kcals, 6.2g fat (2.5g saturated), 4.1g protein, 11g carbs (6.3g sugars), 0.5g salt, 2.6g fibre →


HOW TO GET THE GARDEN PARTY LOOK By stylist Victoria Eldridge We took inspiration from summer flowers – roses and ranunculus – and wove in hot pink and jade green for zingy colour. Most people have white china lurking in the cupboard, and layering that up with colour-block or patterned plates makes the eclectic boho look more modern. Seek out inexpensive ceramics at H&M and Ikea, and Anthropologie has some beautiful (slightly more pricey) pieces. A mix of floral and pale pink linens complements summer flowers, and we finished each place setting with a single flower or greenery from the garden. For a book club, a vintage book or wrapped paperback is the just-about-perfect final touch.

Orange blossom, lemon thyme and almond cake with rosé red berries, p70

SUSY ATKINS’ WINE PICKS Chill dry rosé or a refreshing Italian white such as gavi to go with the green houmous and salmon. For the lamb, open a soft juicy red – perhaps a pinot noir from New Zealand or Chile. Serve a pudding wine, ideally a French muscat, with the cake. 69


With thanks to Oliver Bonas and Anthropologie for loaning us their beautiful crockery, glassware and napkins


I had no idea curing my own salmon would be so easy to do at home, and it’s easy to prepare when I get in from work in readiness for entertaining at the weekend. COOKED BY CLARE GOSSAGE You’ll need to start this dish MAKE at least 2 days before you AHEAD want to serve it. The salmon can marinate in the fridge for up to 3 days before serving. • 1 tbsp pink peppercorns • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 1 tbsp caster sugar • 1 tbsp flaked sea salt • 2 tbsp vodka (or you can use gin) • Large handful chopped fresh dill • Grated zest and juice ½ lemon • 400g top-quality skin-on salmon fillet about 2-3cm thick • Fresh basil leaves to serve

3 For the salad, put the samphire in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Set aside for 2 minutes, then drain and refresh under cold running water. Put in a bowl with the avocados, radishes and watercress. 4 To serve, finely slice the salmon, lay on a serving platter, top with fresh basil leaves and serve with the salad, squeeze over a little lemon juice and drizzle with olive oil. PER SERVING 211kcals, 16.5g fat (3.4g saturated), 11.7g protein, 1.6g carbs (0.9g sugars), 0.7g salt, 3g fibre

Orange blossom, lemon thyme and almond cake with rosé red berries SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN, COOKING TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 5 MIN

I love floral flavours, so I’m always drawn to puddings like this one. Adding lemon thyme to the fruit syrup is something I hadn’t tried before, but the herby flavour complemented the sweet berries. COOKED BY KATE LINGARD


• 90g pack samphire (from large supermarkets or fishmongers in season) • 2 ripe avocados, sliced • 200g radishes, sliced • 90g bag watercress • 1 lemon • Olive oil for drizzling

NEXT MONTH Food to eat under a big blue sky

1 Two days before you want to serve, put the peppercorns and cumin seeds in a pestle and mortar and grind to a coarse powder. Stir in the sugar, salt, vodka, dill, lemon zest and juice to make the cure. 2 Put a double thickness of cling film on the work surface. Put the salmon in the centre and cover with the cure, then wrap the fish tightly in the cling film. Put on a baking tray, then put another baking tray on top. Weigh it down with a couple of tins and put in the fridge. Leave to cure for 48 hours, turning it over halfway through. After 48 hours, wipe off the cure and pat the fish dry with kitchen paper.


• ½-1 tsp orange blossom water (depending on strength)

Make the cake and poach MAKE the berries up to 24 hours in AHEAD advance. Wrap the cake in cling film and the keep berries in an airtight container in the fridge. Bring to room temperature to serve. • 100ml light olive oil • 100g golden caster sugar • 3 medium free-range eggs • Grated zest and juice 1 orange • 2 tsp orange blossom water • 100g plain yogurt • 150g self-raising flour • 100g ground almonds FOR THE ROSÉ RED BERRIES

• 3 tbsp golden caster sugar • A few lemon thyme sprigs, plus extra to serve • 100ml rosé wine • 150g raspberries FOR THE CREAM

• 100ml double cream • 150g crème fraîche • 1 tbsp runny honey


• 20cm springform cake tin, base lined and lightly greased 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Put the olive oil, sugar, eggs, orange zest and juice, orange blossom water, yogurt, self-raising flour and ground almonds in a large bowl and whisk until just combined. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for 35 minutes or until a skewer pushed into the centre comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack in the tin for 5-10 minutes, then turn out and leave to cool completely. 2 Meanwhile make the rosé red berries. Put the sugar, thyme and rosé wine in a medium pan and heat until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer for 5 minutes until thickened to a syrup. Remove from the heat and leave to cool for 10 minutes. Add the berries, stir gently and set aside. 3 In a bowl, whisk the cream, crème fraîche, honey and as much orange blossom water as you think it needs until it forms soft peaks. Put the cake on a plate or cake stand and spoon the cream on top. Add the berries, drizzle with the syrup and scatter with extra thyme leaves. PER SERVING 333kcals, 22.1g fat (8g saturated), 6.3g protein, 25.3g carbs (15.6g sugars), 0.2g salt, 0.9g fibre

reader event.

JOIN US FOR AN EXCLUSIVE DINNER WITH PETER GORDON AT THE PROVIDORES Join delicious. editor Just for Karen Barnes and the delicious. master of fusion cooking readers in the heart of London for a three-course dinner matched with top New Zealand wines – it’ll be a night to remember


o celebrate the publication of his latest book, Eating Well Everyday (see p113), New Zealand-born fusion food pioneer Peter Gordon is inviting you to his cosy restaurant, The Providores & Tapa Room in London’s Marylebone, for an exclusive evening of fine food, top wine and lively conversation. And as well as meeting the talented Peter you’ll get to chat with delicious. editor Karen Barnes too. The evening will kick off with canapés and sparkling wine, before you’re treated to three courses of Peter’s greatest hits, each one matched with interesting New Zealand wines and introduced by the man himself. After dinner you’ll have a chance to quiz Peter in a friendly Q&A session and at the end of the night you’ll take home a copy of his excellent book – along with lots of wonderful memories.

WHEN 6.30pm (to sit down at 7pm), Wednesday 22 August 2018 WHERE The Providores & Tapa Room, 109 Marylebone High Street, London W1 COST £80 per person including food, wine, service, the Q&A and a signed book



in Morocco but moved with her food-loving family to Brussels. She later worked in London and, after a career in public policy, followed her passion to train as a chef. The success of her popular blog, My Moroccan Food, led to her first cookbook, Casablanca.

• 15g bunch fresh coriander, finely chopped • 2 tbsp paprika • 1 tbsp caster sugar • 1 tbsp dried mint • 1 tsp salt • ½ tsp cayenne pepper • ½ tsp ground black pepper FOR THE PRESERVED LEMON GUACAMOLE

Merguez burger with preserved lemon guacamole SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

READER OFFER This recipe is from Casablanca: My Moroccan Food by Nargisse Benkabbou (Mitchell Beazley £20). To order it for the special price of £14 including UK P&P, call 01903 828503 quoting the code Casablanca MB693*

Combine the merguez MAKE AHEAD mince and shape the patties up to a day in advance. Keep covered in the fridge. If cooking on a coal barbecue, FOOD TEAM’S light it 20-30 minutes before TIP you want to cook and wait for the coals to glow white. Merguez is a kind of spicy NARGISSE’S sausage found everywhere TIPS across North Africa and beyond, and this burger replicates its flavours. For extra spiciness I add a dash of harissa to the mayonnaise. FOR THE MERGUEZ MINCE

• 2 tbsp fennel seeds • 2 tbsp cumin seeds • 2 tbsp coriander seeds • 250g British lamb mince, 20% fat • 250g British beef mince, 20% fat • 4 garlic cloves, crushed


• 2 ripe avocados • 1 tomato, deseeded and chopped • 1 shallot, finely chopped • 2 small preserved lemons, flesh and rind finely chopped • 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander • ½ tbsp lemon juice, or more to taste • ½ tsp salt – or to taste TO SERVE

• 4 burger buns • Good-quality shop-bought mayonnaise, lettuce leaves and tomato slices 1 Toast the fennel, cumin and coriander seeds in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for about 3 minutes until fragrant. Transfer the toasted spices to a pestle and mortar or a spice/coffee grinder and roughly grind. 2 Put the rest of the ingredients for the merguez mince in a large bowl with the ground spices, then use your

hands to mix everything together. Divide the mixture into quarters and form each quarter into a ball. Using your hands, flatten each ball into a 2cm thick disc (see Make Ahead). 3 Prepare the preserved lemon guacamole a few minutes before grilling the burgers. Cut the avocados in half lengthways, remove the stones and use a large spoon to scoop out the avocado flesh into a bowl. Mash the avocado flesh with a fork, then add the remaining guacamole ingredients and stir together until well combined (see food team’s tip). Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt and lemon juice if necessary. 4 Heat a frying pan or griddle pan over a medium-high heat. Cook the burgers for 3-4 minutes on each side, to your liking. 5 Immediately assemble your burgers by putting each merguez patty in a split burger bun with some mayonnaise, lettuce leaves, tomato slices and a dollop of the preserved lemon guacamole. PER SERVING 727kcals, 45.4g fat (13.5g saturated), 36.4g protein, 36.8g carbs (8.2g sugars), 3.2g salt, 13.1g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A soft, fruity South American red is just right here. Make it a Chilean merlot or Argentinian malbec or bonarda. For more ways to use preserved lemons, see Loose Ends


Moroccan food blogger-turned author Nargisse Benkabbou shares a North Africanspiced burger that will be a big hit on your barbecue. “I love mixing Moroccan flavours with Western dishes,” she says. “Fusion food reflects the world and age we live in, and I find it immensely comforting and tasty. This burger, which combines beef with spicy merguez flavours, is just such a creation. I think you’re going to like it”

favourites. 73


“Mum’s been baking for so many years she feels the need to be creative” There are a handful of cakes and biscuits that form part of every Kiwi and Australian home cook’s repertoire. Melting moments and yo-yos are two of them. They’re similar in that they’re both biscuits sandwiched together with a filling, but Mum didn’t like the way yo-yos crumble, or their dryness (they contain a lot of cornflour) so she made a hybrid of the two sorts using custard powder from the melting moments and called it a mo-yo. Mum likes to play around with old recipes a little these days as she’s been baking for so many years that she feels the need to be creative. She does all her mixing in a red plastic bowl she’s had for more than 30 years. Her favourite knife is a bone-handled butter knife that’s almost as old as she is. She does have some new equipment– she uses the microwave in some crafty ways. Mum’s a fantastic baker and always has biscuits in the pantry. My favourites include an amazing ginger crunch and muesli slice – and she always makes a ‘pav’ when I’m at hers. These mo-yos are fantastic. See p71 for a chance to dine with Peter at a special event for delicious. readers ING HERE’S LOOK and r te Pe U YO AT

y his mum Timm


Store in an airtight MAKE container in a cool dark AHEAD place for up to 5 days. Don’t overwork the dough in TIMMY’S step 3 or the biscuits may TIPS be tough once baked. Don’t take the biscuits off the tray too soon as they’ll fall apart. There’s no need to sieve the ingredients. FOR THE BISCUITS

• 200g salted butter (at room temperature, then softened in a microwave for 6-8 seconds) • 75g icing sugar • 125g plain flour • 60g cornflour, plus extra to dust and dip • 65g custard powder FOR THE BUTTER ICING

• 60g unsalted butter, soft • 120g icing sugar • 1 tbsp lemon juice (Mum microwaves 1 lemon for 10-12 seconds to make it easy to juice) 1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/ gas 5. Line 2 baking trays with non-stick baking paper. 2 For the biscuits, using a rubber spatula, cream together the 200g butter and 75g icing sugar in

a mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Add the flour, cornflour and custard powder, then gently mix in using a butter knife. 3 Tip onto a work surface lightly dusted with cornflour, then quickly and gently squeeze the dough together – don’t knead it (see tips). 4 Tear off a small piece, then shape and roll into a walnut-size ball and put on a baking tray. Repeat using the rest of the dough to give 30 balls, spacing them 3-4cm apart. Press down lightly on each ball with a fork dipped in cornflour to create thick biscuits. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden. Cool the biscuits on the baking tray until you can handle them easily (see tips), then carefully transfer to a cooling rack. 5 Meanwhile, make the butter icing. Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl using a butter knife until creamy and smooth. 6 Once the biscuits have cooled completely, spread the flat side of one biscuit with plenty of icing, gently press another on top, then transfer to a tray. Once all the mo-yos are sandwiched, chill them in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm them up (see Make Ahead), then enjoy with a trad cuppa or trendy flat white. PER MO-YO 242kcals, 14.4g fat (9.1g saturated), 1g protein, 26.8g carbs (13g sugars), 0.4g salt, 0.3g fibre


Chef Peter Gordon grew up in New Zealand, where he was inspired by mum Timmy and her fantastic baking. Here, as his mum prepares to celebrate her 80th birthday on 19 July, the king of fusion cooking pays tribute to Timmy’s own clever hybrid

food memories.

When the melting moment meets the yo-yoÉ 75

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Susy Atkins rounds up best buys and top summery cocktails

GR AB A BARGAIN loads of juicy lime flavours – a fine match for white fish cooked with fresh herbs, and tomato salads. • Morrisons Beaujolais 2017, France (£5) A soft, youthful red bursting with black cherries and plums. Chill it slightly if you like and serve with cold meats and pâtés.

WHAT’S HOT Summer cocktails


ombine summery ingredients into a refreshing, spritzy, beautifully scented cocktail (see below). St-Germain (£16-19

for 50cl, major supermarkets)

is a quality elderflower liqueur from France, marked with the vintage year. For your gin, choose the strongly flavoured

FRIDAY SPECIAL • Zingo Malbec Rosé 2017, Pays d’Oc, France (£9.99, or £7.99 as part of a mixed six, Majestic) A modern, exuberantly fruity rosé tingling with red cherries and cranberries. Summer party pink, sorted. • Taste the Difference Zweigelt 2017, Austria (£9, Sainsbury’s) Interesting new red made

SPLASH OUT • Momento Chenin Blanc-Verdelho 2016, W Cape, South Africa (£21.80, Lay & Wheeler) Full textured with layers of orange blossom, baked apples and apricot, this dry white is worthy of the best grilled chicken. • Underwood Pinot Noir 2016, Oregon, USA (£14, selected Marks & Spencer) Silky soft


pinot, lush and ripe with plum and blackberry fruit. A star wine for duck breast or a rare steak. • Tio Pepe Fino En Rama 2018 Release, Jerez, Spain (£15.50, Tanners, Oddbins, Oxford Wines) Tio Pepe’s dry sherry, straight from the cask (en rama). Bready, yeasty and slightly saline – terrific with prawns or jamón.

from Austria’s zweigelt grape, smooth with blackcurrant and strawberry notes and even a whiff of violet. Try it with barbecued pork. • Fillipo Sansovino Millesimato Prosecco 2017, Veneto, Italy (£9.98, Asda) Premium prosecco, whistle-clean with fine bubbles and a whoosh of lemon, orange and pears.

Cucumber Gin by the English Drinks Company (£37, or £28 as part of mixed six, Majestic) or Hendrick’s Gin (widely available, from £28), which has

a more subtle cucumber hint.

The garden party cocktail (SERVES 1) • 30ml gin, preferably one with a cucumber flavour (see above) • 30ml St-Germain elderflower liqueur • ¼ tsp caster sugar • 20ml fresh lime juice • 100ml cold sparkling wine (prosecco is ideal) • Fresh raspberry, fresh mint sprig and crisp thin cucumber slice to garnish (optional) Shake the gin, liqueur, sugar and lime juice in a cocktail shaker with ice. Strain into a tall collins tumbler with a few ice cubes in it, then top up with the fizz. Garnish with a raspberry, mint sprig and slice of cucumber.


• Mandorla Bianco 2017, Italy (£6, Marks & Spencer) Stock up on this refreshing southern Italian white for summer parties. It’s perky with lemon and pear and a dry, crisp finish. • Extra Special Rueda 2017, Spain (£5.48, Asda) The Rueda region’s fashionable verdejo grape variety offers



N O FA D S , N O U N R E A L I ST I C H E A LT H C L A I M S… J U ST 1 9 I N S P I R I N G PA G E S O F H O N E ST, N U T R I T I O U S , G O O D - F O R -YO U R E C I P E S , I N F O A N D I D E A S

MIDWEEK MEALS p80 A main-course salad with the flavour of Mexico, plus other suppers – each ready in just 15 minutes

THE BUDGET RECIPE p85 Celebrate in-season aubergines

HEALTHY MAKEOVER p89 A light take on a summer side: coleslaw

TAKE A PACK p90 Add olives to the mix for a burst of flavour TURN THE PAGE FOR THE RECIPES → 79


READY IN 15 Is it possible to magic up a nutritious, satisfying supper in less than a quarter of an hour? Yes it is, and these five recipes prove how simple it can be RECIPES KATY MCCLELLAND PHOTOGRAPHS TARA FISHER FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH AND OLIVIA SPURRELL STYLING LUIS PERAL




This new tagliatelle dish rules

Your guarantee for every recipe in this feature: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients (not including oil) • 15 minutes hands-on time • 650 calories per portion (but most recipes have fewer) • 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar

eat well for life.

Caesar tagliatelle



For a veggie version, swap the parmesan for a vegetarian hard cheese and swap anchovies and Worcestershire sauce for 75g pitted, chopped kalamata olives and a few dashes of mushroom ketchup.


• 300g tagliatelle • 4 tsp light olive oil • 60g dried breadcrumbs • 3-4 garlic cloves, crushed • 4 baby gem lettuces, quartered lengthways • 8-10 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped • 4 spring onions, thinly sliced • 2 medium free-range eggs, beaten • 70g parmesan, finely grated • Few dashes Worcestershire sauce • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley leaves, finely chopped 1 Cook the pasta in a large pan of salted water, according to the pack instructions, reserving 50ml of the cooking water before draining. 2 Heat half the oil in a large heavybased frying pan over a medium heat, then fry the breadcrumbs and 1 crushed garlic clove for 1-2 minutes, stirring until golden. Set aside on a plate. 3 Add the rest of the oil to the frying pan and turn up the heat to mediumhigh. Char the lettuce on all sides, then turn down the heat to low-medium and add the remaining garlic and half the anchovies and spring onions. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. 4 Take the pan off the heat, toss the drained pasta in the frying pan with the baby gems and the remaining anchovies and spring onions, the reserved pasta cooking water, beaten eggs and parmesan and mix well so the hot pasta cooks the eggs to form a smooth sauce. 5 Add the Worcestershire sauce and parsley, then season to taste with cracked black pepper and salt. Serve in warm bowls and eat straightaway. PER SERVING 483kcals, 12.9g fat (4.8g saturated), 23.1g protein, 66.5g carbs (3.1g sugars), 0.8g salt, 4.6g fibre

Singapore pork and prawn noodles SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN

If you’re not a fan of pork mince swap it for shredded ham or leave it out. You could make this dish vegetarian by using cubed tofu instead of the pork and prawns.


• 2 tsp light olive oil • 300g free-range pork mince • ¾ tsp chinese five-spice powder • 2½ tsp curry powder • 180g sustainable raw king prawns, peeled • 250g carrots, thinly sliced • 1-2 red chillies, deseeded (optional – leave in if you like spicy food) and roughly chopped • 300g ready-cooked or straightto-wok egg noodles

• 250g pak choi, roughly chopped • 4 spring onions, thinly sliced • 1½ tbsp light soy sauce 1 Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan or wok over a high heat. Fry the mince for 2 minutes, stirring, to brown. 2 Turn the heat down to medium-high, add the spices and stir-fry for 3 minutes, then add the prawns, carrots and chillies. Cook for 3 more minutes, then add the noodles, pak choi and 2 tbsp water. Stir-fry, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen any crispy bits, for another 1-2 minutes until the prawns and mince are cooked through, the vegetables are just tender and the noodles are heated through. Serve straightaway sprinkled with the spring onions and soy sauce. PER SERVING 358kcals, 13.2g fat (3.8g saturated), 28.5g protein, 28.3g carbs (7.3g sugars), 1.8g salt, 6g fibre → 81



Zesty lamb chops with couscous SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN

Add a handful of shelled unsalted pistachios and swap the currants for sour cherries. A dollop of natural yogurt would go well on the side.


• 2 tsp light olive oil • 8 British lamb chops or cutlets • Grated zest 3 lemons, juice 2½, plus 4 slices • 1 red onion, very thinly sliced • 300g wholewheat couscous • 35g currants • 100g queen or nocellara olives, pitted and roughly chopped • 130g baby leaf spinach • Handful mixed herbs (we used mint, coriander and parsley), finely chopped 1 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3. Heat the oil a large heavy-based frying pan over a medium-high heat. Season the lamb with salt and pepper, then add to the pan along with the lemon slices and cook for 3-5 minutes on each side (longer if you like your meat well done). Put the onion in a glass or ceramic bowl with the juice from one lemon. 2 Meanwhile, cook the couscous according to the pack instructions. Once the lamb is cooked, transfer it to a tray and loosely cover it with foil. Turn off the oven and 82

put the lamb in to keep warm and rest. 3 Add 60ml water to the lamb pan and bubble on a high heat, scraping the pan. Reduce the liquid by roughly half, then stir in the remaining lemon juice, most of the zest, the currants and olives. Take off the heat and stir in the couscous, spinach and most of the herbs, then taste and season. 4 Serve the chops and the couscous with any resting juices spooned over, sprinkled with the onion, the remaining herbs and lemon zest. PER SERVING 638kcals, 20.8g fat (6.5g saturated), 41.4g protein, 65.5g carbs (9.8g sugars), 1g salt, 11.4g fibre

Mexican chicken taco salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN

For a meat-free option swap the chicken for 2 x 400g cans drained and rinsed black beans: fry them with the garlic and chilli, then mix with the charred peppers and onions.


• 2 large red peppers, cut into large chunks • 4 large salad onions, cut into thirds lengthways or 1 red onion cut into wedges • 4 tsp light olive oil • 1-2 tbsp chilli sauce (such as chipotle sauce or Cholula) • Grated zest 2 limes and juice 1, the remaining lime cut into wedges

• 4 tbsp mayonnaise • 1 large crunchy lettuce, roughly shredded • 350g mixed tomatoes, roughly chopped • 4 large or 6 small corn tortillas (we used Wahaca flour and yellow corn tortillas from Ocado) • Large handful fresh coriander, leaves picked and chopped • 1 ready-roasted rotisserie chicken (roughly 900g), cut into chunky portions 1 Heat a griddle pan or grill to high. Toss the peppers and onions in the oil and cook for 1-2 minutes on each side until slightly softened and lightly charred. Set aside. 2 Meanwhile make a dressing by mixing the chilli sauce, lime zest and juice, and mayo until smooth, then set aside. Put the lettuce and tomatoes in a large bowl. 3 Griddle/grill the tortillas for 30 seconds or so on each side until lightly toasted, then cut into wedges. Toss the peppers, onions, coriander and a little dressing with the rest of the salad and season with salt and pepper. Tip the dressed salad onto a serving platter, arrange the chicken portions and tortillas on top and serve with the remaining dressing and lime wedges for squeezing on the side. PER SERVING 574kcals, 28.6g fat (5g saturated), 37.6g protein, 39.5g carbs (7.5g sugars), 1g salt, 4.3g fibre

eat well for life.

Courgettes with chilli and coconut spiced yogurt & poached eggs SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN

Swap courgettes for other green vegetables such as broad beans, green beans, sugarsnap peas or mangetout. Very fresh eggs are easier FOOD TEAM’S to poach, as the white stays TIP close together as they cook.


• 2 tbsp rapeseed oil • 2 medium courgettes, sliced • 500g mixed tomatoes, larger ones halved or quartered • 1 tbsp coriander seeds, roughly crushed • ½-1½ tsp chilli flakes (depending on heat and taste) • 8 small free-range eggs (see tip) • 500g greek yogurt • Handful mixed herbs (mint and coriander), finely chopped • 10g unsweetened coconut flakes or desiccated coconut • Warmed naan breads to serve 1 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large shallow casserole (or heavy-based frying pan) over a medium-high heat, add the courgettes and fry for 2-3 minutes until brown, then transfer to a plate. Turn down the heat to medium, then add the rest of the oil, the tomatoes, coriander seeds and chilli flakes. Mix well and cook for 6 minutes until fragrant and the tomatoes are starting to burst. 2 Meanwhile, fill a large pan about 5cm deep with boiling water from a kettle. Bring to a gentle simmer, crack in the eggs (you may need to do this in two batches) and cook for 3-4 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon. 3 Return the courgettes to the casserole/pan to heat through, then take the pan off the heat, mix in the yogurt, half the herbs and the coconut. Taste and season with salt and pepper, put the eggs on top, sprinkle with the remaining herbs and serve with warm naan breads. PER SERVING 337kcals, 23.4g fat (10g saturated), 20.4g protein, 9.2g carbs (8.7g sugars), 0.6g salt, 4.3g fibre



• 2 tsp light olive oil • 1 small red onion, thinly sliced • A few saffron strands • 275ml boiling water • ½ tsp sweet paprika • 100g orzo pasta • 30g soft agen prunes, pitted and finely chopped • 30g pitted kalamata olives, roughly chopped

• Finely grated zest and juice ¼ orange • Handful pine nuts, lightly toasted for 3-4 minutes in a dry frying pan • Large handful fresh flatleaf parsley leaves, finely chopped • 20g feta, crumbled 1 Heat the oil in a medium saucepan with a lid over a medium heat. Cook the onion, stirring, for 5 minutes or until translucent and lightly golden. Put the saffron in a heatproof jug and pour over the boiling water. 2 Add the paprika and orzo to the

onions in the pan and mix well, then pour in the saffron water. Bring to the boil, add the chopped prunes and olives, then turn the heat down to a moderate simmer, cover with the lid and cook for 8 minutes or until the orzo is al dente. 3 Stir in the orange zest and juice (to taste) along with the pine nuts and parsley. Season to taste, then scatter with the crumbled feta. PER SERVING 635kcals, 27.7g fat 6.5g saturated), 18.4g protein, 72.6g carbs (18.9g sugars), 1.5g salt, 11g fibre



The sweet, warming flavours of this recipe recall simple Greek cooking and the tangy feta and olives make it a satisfying veggie supper


eat well for life .

THE BUDGET RECIPE This summery dish makes the most of aubergines in their prime

Teriyaki and sesame aubergines with rice

If you like your food spicy, don’t remove the seeds from the chilli(es). If the sauce starts to catch in the roasting tin in step 3, add a little water to thin it. The extra steam will help to tenderise the aubergines, too.

• 200g fresh or frozen peas • 1-2 red chillies, deseeded (see tips) and chopped • 4 garlic cloves, bruised and chopped • 90ml teriyaki sauce • 1½ tsp toasted sesame oil • Grated zest and juice 1½ limes, the remaining ½ cut into wedges • 3 spring onions, thinly sliced • Small bunch fresh coriander, leaves chopped

• 1½ tbsp light olive oil • 4 medium aubergines, halved, the cut sides lightly scored in a criss-cross pattern using the tip of a sharp knife • 250g long grain rice, rinsed in cold water

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/ gas 7. Heat the oil in a roasting tin that will fit the aubergines snugly. Add the aubergine halves, scoredside down, and roast for 15 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, cook the rice according to the pack instructions,





adding the peas for the last 3-4 minutes of the cooking time. Mix the chillies, garlic, teriyaki, sesame oil and 2 tbsp cold water in a small jug. 3 Turn down the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Turn the aubergines over, pour over the teriyaki sauce mixture and roast for a further 15 minutes (see tips). Remove from the oven, then mix the lime zest and juice into the sauce in the tin. Spoon the cooked rice into the tin around the aubergines to soak up the sauce. Scatter with the spring onions and serve with the coriander and lime wedges. PER SERVING 438kcals, 7.9g fat (1.5g saturated), 11.4g protein, 74.5g carbs (18.7g sugars), 1.7g salt, 11.9g fibre 85


Rich savoury flavours combine with nutritious ingredients for a satisfying supper

Japanese-style omelette (okonomiyaki) SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN

To make this veggie, swap FOOD TEAM’S the Worcestershire sauce TIP for mushroom ketchup and the oyster sauce for pure teriyaki or use vegetarian oyster sauce.


1 Roughly beat the eggs, soy and Worcestershire sauce with a fork, add most of the chilli and spring onions, the cauliflower, pak choi and cornflour, then mix. 2 Mix the lime juice in a bowl with the cucumber, remaining chilli and spring onions and set aside. 3 Heat a small frying pan (about 15cm) over a medium-high heat, spray with the cooking spray, then pour in the omelette mixture and cook for 3 minutes or until browned. Using a spatula, turn and cook for 3 more minutes to brown the other side. Cover with a pan lid that fits and cook for 1-2 minutes until the cauliflower is tender. Top with the cucumber and spring onion salad and drizzle with oyster sauce. PER OMELETTE 246kcals, 12g fat (2g saturated), 19g protein, 14g carbs (5.7g sugars), 1.8g salt, 3.2g fibre 86


By nutritionist Amanda Ursell This dish will be filling: research has shown how a two-egg meal can affect satiety, helping people to eat fewer calories at their next meal. Eggs also add useful amounts of vitamin D to the diet, with this omelette providing 75 per cent of the daily target. It’s also good for the B vitamins folate and B12, needed for healthy nerves. On a non-fasting day, 50g (uncooked weight) instant wholemeal rice noodles will add another 175 calories to the meal. These will provide 36g extra carbohydrates and 3.3g more fibre. Amanda is the nutrition editor of our sister magazine Healthy Food Guide


• 2 medium free-range eggs • 1 tsp dark soy sauce • ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce (see tip) • 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced • 2 spring onions, thinly sliced • 80g thinly sliced cauliflower (use a mandoline or grater) • 60g pak choi, chopped • ½ tbsp cornflour • Juice ½ lime • 50g cucumber, halved, deseeded and thinly sliced • Low-calorie cooking spray • 1 tsp oyster sauce mixed with ½ tsp water (see tip)

eatxxxxxxxxxx. well for life.

SOUP OF THE MONTH Delicately fresh and sweet, this cooling soup is a summer stunner

Chilled pea soup SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,



Make it at least 4 hours MAKE AHEAD in advance (to allow time to chill), or make the day before and keep covered in the fridge. Leftovers will keep for 2-3 days, covered in the fridge. To serve this as a smart FOOD TEAM’S starter, top with thinly TIP sliced heritage tomatoes or cooked crayfish. • Olive oil for frying and drizzling • Bunch spring onions, chopped • 1 garlic clove, crushed

• 300g petits pois • 750ml good quality vegetable or chicken stock, hot • Large handful fresh basil • 60g bag mixed watercress, rocket and spinach salad leaves • 150ml yogurt 1 Heat a glug of oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the spring onions and cook for 8 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes more. Stir in the peas, then pour over the hot stock, season with salt and pepper and simmer for 5 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, roughly chop most of the basil and most of the salad

leaves. After the soup has been cooking for 5 minutes, add the chopped leaves to the pan. Bring back to a simmer and cook for a further 2 minutes. 3 Remove from the heat and, using a stick blender, whizz until smooth. Stir in most of the yogurt, then put in an airtight container and chill for at least 4 hours (see Make Ahead). 4 Once chilled, season to taste and divide among 4 bowls. Top with the remaining yogurt, basil, salad leaves and a drizzle of olive oil to serve. PER SERVING 123kcals, 3.3g fat (1.5g saturated), 8g protein, 12.9g carbs (6.1g sugars), 0.6g salt, 4.7g fibre




Make the pastry and chill, MAKE well wrapped, in the fridge AHEAD a day ahead. The baked tart case will keep somewhere cool for up to 3 days stored in an airtight container or wrapped in cling film. Ricotta salata is salted and KNOW- aged ricotta that’s firm but HOW mild and crumbly. Find it in Italian delis or buy ricotta salata dura from Natoora on Ocado.

• 250g pack ricotta • 80g ricotta salata, grated (see Know-how) or pecorino • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tsp runny honey • 1 tbsp freshly picked thyme leaves, plus extra to serve • Grated zest ½ lemon • ¼ tsp cracked black pepper • Few pinches smoked sea salt flakes (or regular sea salt flakes) • 650g mixed tomatoes; you’ll need 4 large tomatoes for the first layer • Handful small fresh basil leaves FOR THE PASTRY

• 200g plain flour, plus extra to dust • ½ tsp sea salt • 4 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves picked • 100g chilled butter, cubed • 3-4 tbsp ice-cold water YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• Deep 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin 1 For the pastry, whizz the flour with the salt, a good grinding of black pepper and the thyme in a food processor. Add the butter and pulse until the mix starts to look like breadcrumbs. Add 3-4 tbsp ice-cold water and pulse again until the mixture comes together to form a ball. (Or rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips,

then add the water and mix with a wooden spoon.) Tip out onto a large sheet of cling film, wrap, then chill for 30 minutes (see Make Ahead). 2 On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to a roughly 28cm circle the thickness of £1 coin. Lift up the pastry with the flour-dusted rolling pin, drape into the tart tin and gently press to line the edges. Trim any excess pastry, leaving a small overhang proud of the tin. Rest in the fridge for 15 minutes. Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. 3 Prick the pastry base all over with a fork, line with a piece of scrunched baking paper or foil, then fill with ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice. Bake for 20 minutes until the edges feel firm, then remove the paper/foil and beans/rice and bake for 6-8 minutes more until the pastry is golden and sandy to the touch. Set aside on a wire rack to cool fully in the tin (see Make Ahead). 4 When you’re ready to serve, beat together both ricottas in a mixing bowl with 1 tsp of the olive oil, the honey, thyme, lemon zest, black pepper and 2-3 pinches of smoked sea salt. Remove the pastry case from its tin and put on a serving plate. Spoon in the ricotta mixture and level using the back of a spoon. Slice the tomatoes and arrange on top, starting with the larger ones, then layering the smaller ones on top. Drizzle with the rest of the oil, then finish with salt and pepper and the extra thyme and basil leaves. PER SERVING 368kcals, 22.2g fat (12.9g saturated), 9.2g protein, 31.5g carbs (5.7g sugars), 0.8g salt, 2.7g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Tomatoes make a happy marriage with sauvignon blanc – chill a crisp French one from Sancerre.


The secret with this beauty is to bake the case the night before so it’s only 10 minutes’ work to finish it off before everyone can dig in

eat well for life.


COLESLAW Lighter creamy coleslaw SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN


We reduced the amount of HOW WE mayonnaise and replaced DID IT high-fat cream with lower-fat fromage frais to bring the fat content down. (Using low-fat mayonnaise will bring it down further.) Fresh herbs add flavour. Make 2-3 hours ahead, MAKE AHEAD cover and chill until ready to serve. The coleslaw will keep in the fridge for up to 2 days but the veg won’t be as crunchy. If you can’t find fromage FOOD TEAM’S frais use low-fat natural TIP yogurt instead.





12g fat (3.4g saturated)

6g fat (0.5g saturated)

1.9g protein

3.8g protein

7.8g carbs (7.7g sugars)

5.5g carbs (5.3g sugars)

0.1g salt

0.1g salt

3.4g fibre

3.8g fibre

A lighter take on the classic barbecue side, with a fresh herby dressing


• 250g fromage frais • 4 tbsp mayonnaise • Finely grated zest and juice ½ lemon • 1½ tsp caraway seeds, lightly toasted in a dry pan • Large handful fresh tarragon and parsley leaves, chopped • 1 large carrot • 1 large fennel bulb • Bunch spring onions • ½ hispi (pointed) cabbage 1 In a large bowl, mix together the fromage frais, mayonnaise, lemon zest and juice, most of the caraway seeds and all the herbs. Season well with salt and pepper. 2 Peel the carrot, then use a julienne peeler (or the coarse side of a box grater) to make long strands. Toss into the dressing. 3 Finely slice the fennel (reserving the green fronds), spring onions and cabbage and add to the bowl. Toss well to combine. Transfer the coleslaw to a serving dish, top with the remaining caraway seeds and reserved fennel fronds to serve. 89


MIXED OLIVES Olives aren’t just for nibbling on with drinks. The salty, umami characteristics of marinated olives give a burst of flavour to weeknight meals Tapenade pappardelle with ricotta SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN, COOKING TIME 10 MIN

Cook 150g dried pappardelle pasta in a large pan of salted boiling water according to the pack instructions. Meanwhile, make the tapenade: whizz 100g olives with rosemary and black pepper, 1 large garlic clove, 1 tbsp rinsed capers, 3 chopped sun-dried tomatoes, a handful of chopped flatleaf parsley and 60ml extra-virgin olive oil to a coarse paste in a food processor (or pound in a pestle and mortar). Taste and season with black pepper, a little salt and lemon juice. Lightly drain the pasta and toss with the tapenade. Dot it with 100g ricotta, scatter with fresh basil leaves and 25g toasted pine nuts, then roughly mix together and serve straightaway. PER SERVING 783kcals, 50g fat (8.9g saturated), 17.7g protein, 62.8g carbs (6.9g sugars), 1g salt, 5.7g fibre


Lamb shish with olive & walnut tahini


Heat a griddle pan over a medium-high heat, then griddle 500g lamb neck fillet, cut into chunks, for 8-10 minutes until browned and cooked through, turning halfway. After 2 minutes, add 2 small red onions, cut into wedges and tossed in 1 tsp light olive oil, to the pan, then cook on both sides until browned and soft. Meanwhile, put 350g greek yogurt in a shallow dish. Spoon 2 tbsp of the yogurt into a small bowl and stir in 2 tbsp tahini until smooth, adding a splash of water to loosen. Spoon the tahini mixture over the yogurt and roughly mix together, then sprinkle with 35g roughly sliced olives with rosemary and black pepper, 35g chopped shelled walnuts and 35g golden raisins. Serve with the griddled lamb and onions along with warm flatbreads, mixed salad leaves and lemon wedges for squeezing. PER SERVING 549kcals, 39.5g fat (15.5g saturated), 33.1g protein, 14.1g carbs (12.7g sugars), 2.4g salt, 10.2g fibre



eat well for life.

Marinated Greek salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN

Heat 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil in a medium frying pan with a lid over a medium heat, add 1 tbsp roughly crushed coriander seeds and 650g mixed, halved seasonal cherry tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes. Turn the heat down to low, season with salt and pepper, cover and cook for 5 minutes more. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to a serving dish. Add the finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange, another 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and 2 tbsp runny honey to the pan. Mix well to make a dressing, then leave to cool slightly. In a bowl, toss 1 sliced cucumber (halve it lengthways, scoop out the seeds, then cut into half-moons), 3 large handfuls lettuce leaves and 180g olives with rosemary and black pepper with 100g crumbled feta and put in the tomato dish. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the dressing from the pan and drizzle it over the salad, then serve with warm crusty bread or pitta. PER SERVING 383kcals, 32.5g fat (6.8g saturated), 7.2g protein, 13.5g carbs (12.6g sugars), 2.3g salt, 4g fibre


W H AT T O B U Y...

We used unearthed olives with rosemary & black pepper, which come in a 230g pack, from Waitrose and Ocado


Creamy chicken cacciatore SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20-25 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN

Heat 2 tsp light olive oil in a casserole over a medium heat, then brown 4 free-range chicken legs for 6 minutes on each side until golden. Remove the chicken and set aside. Add 1 large fennel bulb, sliced into 6 wedges (keep the fronds), to the casserole and fry for 5 minutes until golden, turning halfway. Meanwhile put 500g halved baby new potatoes in a pan of cold water. Cover with the lid, bring to the boil and simmer for 3 minutes, then drain. Return the chicken and the potatoes to the casserole with 5 bay leaves, 5 garlic cloves, quartered, 6 anchovy fillets in oil, 100g olives with rosemary and black pepper, roughly chopped, and a little salt and some black pepper. Mix well, then add 350ml chicken stock. Bring to the boil, reduce to a fast simmer for 5 minutes, then cover, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes until everything is tender. Stir in 150ml single cream and the reserved fennel fronds for the last 5 minutes of the cooking time, then serve. PER SERVING 410kcals, 20.7g fat (7.3g saturated), 32.1g protein, 21.8g carbs (3.2g sugars), 1.5g salt, 4g fibre 91


Is red wine a health food? A low-to-moderate intake has long been hailed as a way to protect against heart disease, yet official advice states there are no grounds for drinking any form of alcohol for health reasons. So can a good bottle of cabernet sauvignon keep our arteries unclogged, or do alcohol’s risks outweigh any benefits? Sue Quinn uncorks the debate


or decades, studies have suggested that drinking a modest amount of wine can be good for the heart. Research in the late 1970s published in The Lancet medical journal found that certain countries had relatively low levels of heart disease despite diets high in saturated fat. The study attributed this phenomenon to high intakes of wine, and later research dubbed this the French Paradox. A slew of studies followed that supported the links between red wine and heart health. The world loved the idea that red wine could mitigate the effects of gorging on cheese, dairy and red meat, and media headlines implied this link was proven. But shortcomings in the research were soon identified. Some scientists pointed out that the link was based on epidemiological studies, which are the least reliable form of scientific research (in that they can’t prove that a specific risk factor actually causes the disease being studied – or the reverse), so did not actually prove red wine protected our hearts against disease.

Other factors, they said, might have contributed – French eating patterns, for example, were based on the Mediterranean diet, recognised as one of the healthiest, being rich in fresh fruit, vegetables, grains, olive oil, lean meat and seafood. The studies did, however, identify certain compounds in red wine that might have potential health benefits. But are there sufficient quantities of them in a low-tomoderate intake of red wine to have any real effect? Is red wine more beneficial than other forms of alcohol? And do any benefits outweigh the undisputed health risks associated with drinking?

WHAT WE KNOW An excessive intake of any alcohol, including wine, is known to increase the risk of serious diseases. Alcohol is one of the most well established causes of cancer, and the World Health Organisation has classified it as a Group 1 carcinogen since 1988. A study published this year found that drinking too much alcohol causes 3 per cent of all cancer cases in the UK, and it’s now known that any level of drinking, even in small amounts, can increase the risk of mouth, throat and breast cancers. New alcohol guidelines came into effect in the UK in 2016 (see right). These reflected recent research on the dangers of drinking and ‘a weakening of the evidence’ relating to the supposed health benefits of an occasional tipple. So

where do the health claims about red wine come from and is there any basis to them at all?

CHEMICAL ALLIES? Red wine contains hundreds of chemicals and one group called polyphenols has been extensively investigated for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Resveratrol, found in the skins of red grapes, is a polyphenol of particular interest to scientists. Dr Emma Wightman from the Health and Life Sciences faculty at Northumbria University explains resveratrol improves blood flow around the body and the brain by increasing the production of nitric oxide, which widens blood vessels. “Blood provides oxygen and glucose to the brain and active muscles,” Dr Wightman explains. “Resveratrol is able to piggy-back on this process to boost it further.” She says there is

UK ALCOHOL GUIDELINES The Department of Health issued new guidelines in 2016. To reduce health risks, men and women are advised not to make a habit of drinking more than 14 units per week. It’s advised that the units are spread over three or more days and to have a few alcohol-free days each week.

your health.

no evidence that resveratrol can help us live longer, but her research at the Brain Performance and Nutrition Research Centre at Northumbria University suggests it might boost mental performance in people aged 50-70 (although not in healthy younger people). However, these human studies used concentrated forms of resveratrol and one would need to consume vast – indeed toxic – quantities of red wine to match these doses. The Centre will report its findings on resveratrol and brain function later this year.

heart failure, fatal hypertensive disease (high blood pressure) and fatal aneurysms. Dr Wood accepts that balancing the good and bad aspects of drinking alcohol is difficult. “At an individual level we should not overinterpret an alcohol level in which the harm starts to outweigh the cardiovascular benefits, since there are many other factors related to different types of cardiovascular disease.” She concedes there may be other ‘hard to measure’ benefits of drinking alcohol, including those of relaxing, socialising and destressing. “It’s important to inform people of these pros and cons so we can make our own lifestyle decisions,” she says. Tracy Parker, senior dietician at the British Heart Foundation, says it’s clear that, on balance, alcohol poses health risks, particularly if you’re drinking more than recommended guidelines. “When you take all the health risks into account there’s no net benefit from drinking any amount of alcohol.” Parker adds there is no good evidence to prove that red wine offers any better heart protection than other alcoholic beverages.

TRUE OR FALSE? The latest research suggests drinking much over the UK recommended limits can reduce life expectancy and increase the risk of serious disease ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE

High consumption of red wine is the proven reason why heart attack rates in France are lower than expected given the high saturated fat intake

One large glass of 14% ABV wine is a whopping 3.5 units



Last year researchers from Queen’s University in Ontario, Canada reviewed all the available research about wine and heart health. They found ‘mounting evidence’ that a low-to-moderate intake of alcohol – 1-2 drinks [1 drink = 341ml 5% ABV beer; 142ml 12% ABV wine; 42ml 40% ABV spirits] per day – could protect against chronic cardiovascular diseases. They concluded there was no consensus about which type of alcohol was best, but the combination of alcohol and polyphenols in wine appeared to be particularly effective. Proof that low-level red wine consumption is good for us? Unfortunately it’s not that simple.

NO NET BENEFITS In April this year a major study published in The Lancet found that the risk of death from alcoholrelated diseases began to increase in those drinking more than 100g of pure alcohol per week, the equivalent of 12.5 units in the UK (see box right). Lead author Dr Angela Wood from Cambridge University says the study did find a lower risk of heart attack among those who drank more alcohol. But this benefit needed to be balanced by a higher risk of other potentially fatal diseases including stroke,

THE BOTTOM LINE A low to moderate alcohol intake may offer protection against some forms of heart disease, according to


Chemical compounds in red wine may have some health benefits for humans ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE

Low levels of alcohol consumption are completely safe ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE

some scientific research. There is no solid evidence that red wine confers more health benefits than other alcoholic drinks, although it does contain compounds that might be heartprotective. Any benefits from a low intake of alcohol, however, are outweighed by the risks, as drinking is also linked to increased risk of some kinds of heart disease, liver disease and cancer. The less you drink, the better for you.

What is a unit of wine?* The number of units in a glass of wine depends on the percentage of alcohol by volume (ABV) in the wine. Eleven per cent would be considered relatively low as some red 125ml table wines can exceed 15 per cent ABV, so check the label.

11% ABV 14% ABV




1.4 units 1.9 units 2.8 units 8.2 units 1.8 units 2.4 units 3.5 units 10.5 units 93


WHY NOW’S THE BEST TIME TO TRY THAI Spicy, aromatic and fresh, Thai food lends itself brilliantly to meat-free cooking, especially at this time of year when vegetables are at their peak. These recipes from Saiphin Moore’s new book will add zing to your mid-summer mealtimes PHOTOGRAPHS LOUISE HAGGER STYLING ALEXANDER BREEZE PORTRAIT JAMES BYRNE

Tofu larb salad, p96

eat well for life.

Deep-fried spring rolls, p96

Vegetables are a big part of Thai culinary culture. It has to do with showing gratitude to nature for providing bountiful land and to redeem ourselves for taking the lives of animals. Many Thais follow a vegetarian or vegan diet at least once a week. This book brings together family recipes with new dishes that I’ve created using whatever local produce I could find. I’ve learned to be inventive and not stress out too much when certain vegetables aren’t available. The important thing is to cook with what you have and experiment with substitutes for what you haven’t. SAIPHIN MOORE 95


The founder of Rosa’s Thai Café restaurants in London, Saiphin grew up on a vegetable farm in northern Thailand. She has lived in Hong Kong and Jersey and, since 2006, has called London home. This is Saiphin’s second cookbook.

Deep-fried spring rolls SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, PLUS COOLING

I learned how to make these when I was a waitress in Hong Kong, at a restaurant called Thai Farmer. We made them every day at 3pm, chatting around a table as we worked. To make this vegan use

SAIPHIN’S water instead of egg white TIP

to seal the rolls (step 2). If you can’t find spring roll FOOD TEAM’S pastry cut filo pastry to size. TIPS Find dried wood ear and white jelly fungus in Asian supermarkets and online from Or you can use extra dried shiitake mushrooms. • 8-10 spring roll pastry sheets, about 12cm x 12cm each (see Food Team’s tip), defrosted if frozen • 1 large free-range egg white (see Saiphin’s tip) • Vegetable oil for deep-frying FOR THE FILLING

• 3 tbsp vegetable oil • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 100g dried rice vermicelli, soaked, drained and cut in half • 100g white cabbage, finely shredded • 100g carrot, finely shredded • 10g dried wood ear or white jelly fungus, soaked, drained and sliced (see tips) • 10g dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked, drained and sliced • 1 tbsp vegetarian oyster sauce • 1½ tsp ground white pepper • 1 tbsp caster sugar • 1 tbsp light soy sauce • Sweet chilli sauce to serve

Recipes from Rosa’s Thai Café: The Vegetarian Cookbook by Saiphin Moore (Mitchell Beazley £20); octopusbooks.

1 For the filling, heat the vegetable oil in a wok set over a medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 30 seconds until golden. Add the remaining filling ingredients and stir-fry for 4-5 minutes, moving everything in the wok continuously until the vegetables have softened. Remove from the heat, transfer


to a colander or sieve and leave to drain and cool for 15 minutes. 2 To make the rolls, divide the filling into 8-10 equal portions. Put a sheet of pastry on a clean work surface with a corner pointing towards you and put 1 portion of the filling on the bottom half. Moisten the top corner with egg white. Fold the bottom corner of the pastry over the filling, ensuring it’s tucked in neatly and tightly. Next, fold the right side of the pastry into the centre, pulling it taut across the filling. Repeat with the left side. Roll up the filling in the pastry away from you to create a log-shaped parcel. The egg white at the top corner will seal it shut. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling. 3 Fill a wok or large heavy-based pan one third full with vegetable oil and set over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot enough to brown a cube of bread in 40 seconds, put 1 roll on a slotted spoon and lower it carefully into the hot oil. Add 4 more rolls, one at a time, then cook for 5 minutes until golden brown, turning them halfway through. Remove the rolls and drain on kitchen paper while you cook the next batch. Serve with sweet chilli sauce. PER SERVING (FOR 3) 498kcals, 22.6g fat (1.6g saturated), 8.8g protein, 63.4g carbs (10.5g sugars), 2g salt, 3g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chill a citrussy dry white such as a Chilean or South African sauvignon blanc.

Tofu larb salad SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

Larb means ‘good fortune’, so we’d eat larb salads at breakfast every morning, hoping it would mean good luck for the business, whether it was my noodle shop or my parents’ farm. Buy ground toasted rice in

SAIPHIN’S Asian supermarkets, or TIP

make your own: toast 2 tbsp uncooked jasmine or basmati rice in a dry frying pan over a gentle heat for 3-4 minutes until it turns golden

brown. Keep moving the rice around so it doesn’t burn. Leave to cool slightly, then whizz to crumbs in a food processor. Stored in an airtight container, it will keep for 4-6 weeks. For an extra kick, toss the FOOD TEAM’S tofu in a little chilli powder TIP before frying (step 1). • Vegetable oil for deep-frying • 200g firm tofu, cut into 2cm cubes • 50g dried rice vermicelli, soaked and drained • 50g textured vegetable protein mince (meat-free mince) • ½ red onion, thinly sliced • 1½ tbsp finely chopped spring onion • 3 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander leaves • 1 tbsp chopped fresh dill • Handful fresh mint leaves • ½ tbsp caster sugar • 2 tbsp ground toasted rice (see Saiphin’s tip) • 1 tbsp chilli flakes • 3 tbsp lime juice • 2 tbsp light soy sauce 1 Fill a wok or large, heavy-based saucepan one third full with vegetable oil and set over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot enough to brown a cube of bread in 40 seconds, carefully lower in the tofu and deep-fry for about 5 minutes until golden brown (see Food Team’s tip). Remove the tofu with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. 2 Bring 1 litre water to the boil in a large pan. Add the rice vermicelli, cook for 30 seconds, then drain. 3 Put the noodles in a mixing bowl with the textured vegetable protein mince and deep-fried tofu. Mix in the red onion, spring onion, fresh coriander, dill and mint. 4 Add the sugar, toasted rice, chilli flakes, lime juice and soy sauce. Mix thoroughly and serve immediately. PER SERVING 419kcals, 18.4g fat (2g saturated), 18g protein, 43.7g carbs (9.9g sugars), 2.1g salt, 3.3g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A dry, lime-scented riesling from Australia hits the spot with these flavours.

eat well for life.

Stir-fried brown rice with holy basil sauce SERVES 1-2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN

I used to make the classic Thai stir-fry dish called pad kra prow (ka prow is holy basil) with brown rice on the side, as taught to me by my mum. But I knew there was a dish that combined them in the pan. Stir-frying the rice in the sauce brings an entirely different taste to this dish. I love tossing holy basil into the hot pan at the end, letting the warm, aniseed aromatics fill the kitchen. Holy basil has a peppery flavour and is available from some Asian grocers. If they don’t have it use sweet Thai basil, also available from Ocado and Asda. FOOD TEAM’S TIP

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2-3 red or green bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped (to taste) • 50g onion, finely diced • 50g carrot, finely diced • 2 tbsp light soy sauce • 1 tsp dark soy sauce • ½ tbsp caster sugar • 100g cooked brown jasmine rice at room temperature • 100g cooked white jasmine rice at room temperature • 25g spring greens, roughly chopped • 25g spring onion, finely chopped • 3 cherry tomatoes, halved • Small handful fresh holy basil leaves (see tip) • Lime wedges to garnish 1 Heat the oil in a wok set over a medium heat. Add the garlic and

chillies and stir-fry for about 30 seconds until the garlic is golden brown. Add the onion and carrot and stir-fry for about 2 minutes until the onion is slightly translucent. 2 Stir in both soy sauces and the sugar, then toss the rice into the wok and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes until all the ingredients are well combined. Finally, add the spring greens, spring onion, tomatoes and holy basil (see tip) and stir-fry for a further minute until the spring greens are cooked through. Serve immediately, garnished with lime wedges. PER SERVING (FOR 2) 252kcals, 6.9g fat (0.6g saturated), 5.5g protein, 40.1g carbs (12g sugars), 2.5g salt, 3.7g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Top choices here are a mouthwatering French sancerre or crisp Italian pecorino.

NEXT MONTH Fabulous veggie feasting from Nina Olsson



Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen. Instead make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas SPICY FROM SHAKSHUKA ZHOUG LAMB WITH Search for ‘green RAS EL HANOUT shakshuka with P66 brown butter yogurt’ at deliciousmagazine. Stir in 2 tbsp zhoug paste at the same time as you add the cucumber and lettuce. HOUMOUS WITH A KICK Stir 3 tbsp zhoug paste into a 200g pot of houmous. Top with a sprinkling of pine nuts and freshly chopped coriander. Serve with toasted pitta chips. GREEN CHILLI CHICKEN SKEWERS Toss 2 diced chicken breasts with the juice of 1 lime, 2 tbsp zhoug paste and plenty of salt and pepper. Thread onto metal skewers and grill until cooked through. Serve with couscous and roasted tomatoes.

TULUM CHEESE FATTOUSH PITTA Mix 100g halved cherry tomatoes, ½ thinly sliced medium red onion, ¼ diced cucumber, 50g quartered FROM TURKISH PIDE WITH MARINATED ARTICHOKES & CHEESE P108


radishes, 1 shredded little gem lettuce, 2 tbsp olive oil, the zest and juice of ½ lemon and 2 tbsp tulum cheese in a bowl, then stuff into pitta breads and drizzle with yogurt or houmous. CHEESY TABBOULEH Search for ‘cucumber and mint tabbouleh with minted labneh’ at Replace the minted labneh with 3 tbsp tulum cheese scattered over the tabbouleh and add a drizzle of yogurt too, if you like.

PRESERVED LEMONS CITRUS RELISH In a small bowl, mix together the chopped rinds of 2 preserved lemons, a handful of chopped fresh flatleaf parsley, the chopped leaves from 4 mint sprigs, sea salt flakes, black pepper and 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with grilled fish or slow-cooked lamb tagine. PRESERVED LEMON AND CHICKEN PASTA In a saucepan over a medium heat, toss 400g cooked pasta, a few spoonfuls of pasta cooking FROM MERGUEZ BURGER WITH PRESERVED LEMON GUACAMOLE P72

water, 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, 1 cooked and shredded chicken breast, the finely sliced rind of 1 preserved lemon, a handful of rocket leaves or watercress and 1 crushed garlic clove. Season generously and finish with a grating of pecorino, if you like.

ARAME SEAWEED GINGER AND ARAME MISO SOUP Soak 4 tbsp arame in cold water for 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp mirin, ½ tbsp ginger paste and 2 tbsp white miso paste into 500ml hot vegetable stock. Drain the arame and add to the hot stock with 1 peeled and julienned carrot. Stir in fried shiitake mushrooms, if you like. EDAMAME SEAWEED SALAD Soak 4 tbsp arame in cold water for 10-15 minutes. Drain, then mix with 300g edamame beans (defrosted if frozen), 3 sliced spring onions, 1 finely chopped red chilli, the juice of 1 lime, 2 tsp toasted sesame oil FROM SALMON POKE BOWL P19

and 1 tbsp sesame seeds. Serve with salmon and steamed rice. SEASIDE STIR-FRY Add a handful of soaked and drained arame to your next stir-fry at the last minute to add a boost of umami flavour.

DESSERT WINE SWEET STRAWBERRIES Mix 200g hulled and quartered strawberries (or other berries) in a bowl with 50ml dessert wine and leave to macerate for 20 minutes. Serve with softly whipped cream. BOOZY NO-CHURN ICE CREAM Put 175ml dessert wine in a large bowl with 300ml double cream and 3 tbsp golden caster sugar. Whisk to soft peaks, then fold in 100g toasted flaked almonds. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze for 3-4 hours until solid. Serve scoops in bowls drizzled with a little blossom honey. AFTER-SUPPER TREAT For an easy pud, serve chilled dessert wine in glasses with small squares of chocolate and biscotti biscuits for dunking. FROM ROASTED BUTTERED CHERRIES WITH ORANGE SABAYON P54







JULY 2018

JEN BEDLOE Food editor


SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor

Turn fresh strawberries into patisserie-style treats in The Weekend Project


Cookery assistant

delicious. KITCHEN p100 Cookery tips and tricks, plus how to make your own barbecue sauce

LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer

XANTHE CLAY Chef, writer, and preserves & freezing queen

CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p107 Turkish-style pizzas from Selin Kiazim, the star chef behind Oklava and Kyseri restaurants 99

THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN... While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things, as well as answering cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. What can you do with tomatoes that are past their best? How do you make pastry in summer? How can you make tofu more interesting? Who has a good barbecue sauce recipe? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will help take your cooking to the next level. FOOD DI Y


7 expert jam-making tips If you’re making Debbie Major’s soft set cherry conserve on p52, here are her tips for the perfect set The sugar must be completely dissolved before you bring the mixture to the boil, otherwise the finished jam will have a tendency to crystallise and won’t set properly. It will stop sounding scratchy on the base of the pan once the sugar has dissolved. Use a large wide-based pan so the jam comes to the boil quickly and has plenty of surface area. Don’t make too large a quantity of jam in one go as it will take too long to come to the boil, which will destroy the fresh flavour of the fruit. Plus it won’t boil rapidly enough to produce a good set. Don’t stir jam while it’s boiling as this cools the jam – you want it to reach setting point as quickly as possible. As well as doing the classic wrinkle test, you can check for the setting point (105°C) using a digital probe thermometer. Always take the pan off the heat when checking for the setting point or the jam may overcook. If it’s not ready, return to the heat and bubble again. Don’t worry if your pan of jam looks like it has scum on top – it’s just tiny bubbles caused by rapid cooking. Don’t skim the scum off as you’ll end up losing some of your jam. If it doesn’t disappear after you’ve let the pan of jam stand for a bit, stir in a tiny knob of butter.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7


It works as a dipping sauce, marinade and cooking sauce, brushed over red meat or chicken on the barbecue Gently heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a pan, then add 2 finely chopped onions, 4 finely chopped garlic cloves, a finely grated 3cm piece of fresh ginger and 1 tsp salt. Fry for 10 minutes. Stir in 1 tbsp tomato purée and cook for a minute more, then add 4 tbsp brown sugar, 1 tsp English mustard powder, 1 tsp ground cumin and 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika, a 400g tin of chopped tomatoes, 3 tbsp cider vinegar, 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce and a few good shakes of Tabasco. Simmer over a very low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring often and adding a splash of water if necessary, until thick and rich. Taste, adjust the seasoning, whizz with a stick blender until smooth and cool before using. The sauce will keep for up to 3 weeks, covered in the fridge.



Get rid of fruit with dark spots or mould, but those that are mushy and are leaking liquid can still be useful PASTA SAUCE Start with a base of gently fried onion with crushed garlic, oregano and 1-2 bay leaves, then add the chopped tomatoes and cook until thick and rich. SOUP Roast tomatoes with a splash of olive oil and balsamic until sweet and soft. Add to chopped red onion and garlic that’s been gently fried with basil and oregano. Whizz in a blender, adding enough good quality stock to get a soupy consistency. BRUSCHETTA Roast tomatoes as for soup, adding garlic and thyme and/or oregano. Pile onto toast or bread with a scattering of basil and some creamy goat’s cheese. FATTOUSH Chop tomatoes and add to cucumber chunks, sliced red onion, shredded lettuce, mint and parsley, and toasted pitta strips. Dress in a mix of garlic, olive oil, wine vinegar and lemon juice, then finish with dried cumin and/or sumac. PANZANELLA Start as for fattoush, without the lettuce, herbs, pitta and cumin/sumac. Add cubes of stale bread, fresh basil and a few capers. Use chopped anchovy in the dressing. PAN CON TOMATE Rub toasted sourdough with a garlic clove. Grate tomatoes and spread the pulp on the toast. Sprinkle with sea salt and olive oil.

SWEATING AND SAUTÉING? SWEATING is the cheffy term for gently frying


Do I need a food processor or stand mixer? BY LUCAS HOLLWEG

You can, in theory, do all kitchen prep by hand – but machines can do a lot of things better and more quickly. So which is best for the job?



delicious. KITCHEN

vegetables to soften them without browning. It’s great for onions, carrots and celery as it concentrates and sweetens the flavour. The veg are chopped, then cooked over a low heat with a little oil or fat so they release some of their moisture and cook in the steam – hence the term ‘sweat’. This can be done in either a closed or open pan. A lid will help them sweat more readily. SAUTEING is rapidly frying small pieces of food over a relatively high heat with a small amount of fat. The ideal pan to use is relatively shallow with a wide base. The term comes from the French for ‘jump’ – the idea being that you toss the food in the pan as it cooks to brown it evenly. Meat, fish or vegetables are cut into small, even pieces, strips or slices so they cook quickly.

If you’re making pastry in warm weather, prevent it from turning greasy and tough by putting butter in the freezer for 30 minutes before using. Grate it directly over a bowl containing the flour, then briefly and lightly rub in the butter with your fingertips. COOK’S TIP

These are designed primarily for mixing, chopping, slicing and shredding. They consist of a motor base topped with a lidded mixing bowl that can be fitted with interchangeable blades and grating discs. Some come with a smaller bowl. Pricier machines have juicing, blending or whisking attachments. Best for… • Making vegetable slaws, salsas and gratins, and slicing veg • Grating cheese; making breadcrumbs • Whizzing houmous, pesto and spice pastes • Making mayonnaise (but large bowls don’t cope well with small quantities) • Mixing batters • Creaming butter and sugar and ‘rubbing in’ butter and flour • Making pastry (briefly pulse in liquid/ eggs or the pastry can become tough) • Making cake mixes (mix in flour lightly to prevent a tough sponge) • Kneading dough quickly, though not in large quantities. The speed of the motor

can overheat the dough, so use the dough attachment with care Not so good for… • Making smooth purées and soups – usually leaves a bit of texture. A stick blender is a better bet. Liquids can also leak from the mixing bowl • Mincing meat: it quickly turns to mush unless you use a mincing attachment • Whisking egg whites and cream, even if your processor has whisk attachments

STAND MIXERS These consist of a large mixing bowl fitted to a stand containing a motor. They’re designed for mixing and beating rather than chopping and blending. The mixer can be fitted with attachments, including a whisk, a beating paddle and, often, a dough hook. Accessories such as shredders, spiralisers and blender bowls are available, although you’ll probably have to buy them separately. Best for… • Whisking egg whites • Whipping cream • Creaming butter and sugar • Making cake mixes (mix in flour lightly to prevent a tough sponge) • Making mayonnaise



• Kneading dough • Mixing batter And, with extra attachments… • Chopping/shredding fruit and veg • Mincing meat • Rolling pasta • Stuffing sausages • Grinding grains Not so good for… • Small quantities (the beaters often don’t make close enough contact with the bowl for, say, whisking a single egg white) • Blending, puréeing and juicing →


3 QUICK SUMMER COCKTAILS They need to refresh as well as pack a punch. These cooling mixes will hit the hot spot

Several factors affect how quickly dried legumes – beans, peas and lentils – take to become tender… AGE Older beans and pulses generally take longer to cook and sometimes don’t soften properly at all, so it’s worth using within a year or so of harvest. Acidic ingredients, such as lemon and tomato, can also stop legumes softening, so should only be added towards the end of cooking. OVERCOOKING is a risk. Many legumes, particularly beans and chickpeas, require long soaking (8 hours or overnight) before they’re cooked – and soaking reduces cooking time so bear that in mind when boiling them. Most lentils can be cooked without soaking. Split peas tend to cook to a purée, as do red lentils, but other lentils such as brown and puy should retain their shape. GO SLOW Cover with fresh water, add aromatics such as garlic, bay and carrot, bring to the boil, then turn down to a very gentle simmer (don’t boil or you risk turning some legumes to mush). Cooking times vary from about 20 minutes for red lentils to 30 minutes for firmer lentils such as puy, so keep testing. Season when soft and warm so you can taste how much you need. AND IF YOUR PULSES DO END UP OVERCOOKED? Embrace the mushy texture and turn them into houmous, soup, dhal or vegetable burgers, or mix with feta, red onion, lemon and coriander to make a healthy salad or filling for a wrap.

RASPBERRY CAIPIRINHA Put 6 raspberries, ½ tbsp light brown sugar and 2 lime quarters in a sturdy tumbler, then pound with the end of a rolling pin (or handle of a wooden spoon) until the juice and sugar are well combined. Add 3 fresh mint leaves and bash briefly. Fill the glass with crushed ice, then pour over 50ml cachaça (sugar cane spirit). Stir well, then top with 3 more mint leaves and 3 more raspberries.


Put a few ice cubes in a jug or cocktail shaker. Add 100ml vodka, 4 tbsp elderflower cordial and the juice of a lemon, then shake vigorously. Fill 2 tall glasses with ice cubes and strain in the vodka mixture. Add a slice of lemon and top up with sparkling water.


Peel 1 cucumber and blend to a purée. Strain to remove the seeds (discard), then divide between 2 glasses. Fill with ice, then add 50ml gin to each glass along with the juice of ¼ lime, 2 lime slices and a few fresh mint leaves. Stir, then top up with chilled soda water. Find other summery cocktails on p53, p66 and p78

Tofu is a nutritious alternative to meat and fish, but it can sometimes need a bit of help on the texture front. Swap 2 portions of meat or fish for a 280g block of extra-firm tofu. Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Slice or cube the tofu, toss in 1 tbsp sunflower oil, then roast for 15-20 minutes until golden and crisp. Now it’s ready to be used in whatever dish you’re making. COOK’S TIP


Soft herbs slightly past their best? Whizz with olive oil and freeze in an ice cube tray for instant flavour-packed fixes to finish soups, steaks and stir-fries. COOK’S TIP

By CJ Jackson, CEO of The Seafood School at Billingsgate and Seafish UK ambassador There’s so much wonderful seafood at this time of year. Most of the flatfish are back now spawning season is over and other fish are back in condition too. Here are three to look out for





Under-loved but plentiful, this member of the octopus and squid group of shellfish is harvested around the UK. In June it’s caught off the south coast but, sadly, much of it is sent to Europe, where it’s more appreciated. Cuttlefish is appearing more regularly

on British menus as chefs and diners become more adventurous. It’s best to prep it in the sink so you can collect the ink more easily, but wear gloves and a black top! Use the ink in risotto or pasta – it will keep for 1-2 days in a sealed jar in the fridge, or for up to 3 months in the freezer. Great ways to cook Fabulously versatile: tentacles are best slow-cooked in a braise. Thinly slice the main body for quick pan or stir-frying – in less than 30 seconds.



Not native to the UK, this trout was imported from the US at the end of the 19th century to stock rivers and lakes. They have slimy skin, so rinse well, then use the back of a knife to remove the scales. It’s often sold whole or in fillets. Ask the fishmonger to remove the ‘blood line’ close to the backbone of the fish (this acts like a kidney and tastes bitter). There are fine pin-bones running two thirds of the way down the fish – tweak these out with tweezers or cook on the bone, then pull the flesh away from the bones. Great ways to cook The French cook rainbow trout ‘au bleu’ – the unrinsed fish is poached in acidulated liquid so the slime turns the skin silvery blue. Trout fried in butter and almonds is also a classic. I like to wrap the fish in herbs, cook on the barbecue, then serve with a zingy dressing.

delicious. KITCHEN

Also called saithe or coalfish, it’s probably the least appreciated relation of cod and haddock. Coley has a coalcoloured back and silver belly with copious scales and a thick white lateral line. The flesh is pink and has a coarser texture but a more intense flavour than its relations. Before cooking a fillet, carefully remove the scales using the back of a knife. There are a few pin-bones down the centre of the thickest part of the fillet; remove those with tweezers. When cooked, the flakes of very fresh fish will be tightly knitted together. Great ways to cook Use it in curries and stews where the flavour will hold its own. You can’t beat it in fish pie and fishcakes – see p28.


SIMMER BECOME A BOIL? SIMMERING occurs below boiling point (100°C). At a slow simmer, only the occasional bubble breaks the surface (stocks are best cooked like this), while a fast simmer can be almost at a boil, with constant bubbles that are mostly fine, but with the odd larger bubble, too. Boiled potatoes and boiled ham are actually simmered – boiling is too vigorous and would break up floury potatoes and make ham tough. Sauces, too, are simmered rather than boiled. BOILING is marked by a constant stream of large bubbles, with a ‘rolling’ motion to the water and lots of steam (when the water reaches 100°C it turns to steam, which cools it slightly). Green vegetables, which should be cooked as quickly as possible, are best thrown into boiling water. Pasta should also be cooked in boiling water.

NEW VIDEOS ONLINE NOW Want to improve your kitchen skills? Visit & discover how to… Build a pizza oven • Make a chicken and coconut laksa • Prepare langoustines • Temper chocolate • Grow your own vegetables, herbs and fruit – and much more

See delicious. expertise in action! 103



Strawberry, Cointreau and orange tarts MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN, PLUS CHILLING

Make the tart cases and pastry MAKE cream a day ahead. Keep the AHEAD cream covered in the fridge. Use a small ball of pastry FOOD TEAM’S scraps to gently push the TIP pastry cases into the edges of the tins without tearing them (step 4). • 250ml whole milk • 200ml double cream • 40g cornflour • 80g caster sugar • 2 medium free-range eggs • 2 tbsp Cointreau orange liqueur (or other similar triple sec liqueur) • Grated zest 1 orange • 175g strawberry jam • 1kg strawberries, hulled • Lemon juice to taste FOR THE PASTRY CASES

• 250g chilled unsalted butter, cubed • 175g icing sugar, sifted • 2 medium free-range eggs, plus 1 egg yolk, beaten • Grated zest 2 oranges • 500g plain flour, plus extra to dust YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• 12 x 10cm fluted tartlet cases, 2cm deep; piping bag fitted with 1cm plain nozzle TIMESAVER CHEAT

1 Pour the milk and cream into a pan and heat until just boiling, then remove from the heat. Meanwhile, put the cornflour and sugar in a mixing bowl, whisk to remove any lumps, then whisk in the eggs until smooth. Pour half the hot milk mixture over the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the egg mixture into the pan with the remaining milk mixture and put the pan over a low-medium heat. Whisk until thickened, smooth and glossy (about 3 minutes), then remove from the heat and beat in the Cointreau and orange zest. Pour into a bowl, cover with cling film touching the surface (to prevent a skin forming) and leave to cool, then chill for 2-3 hours (see Make Ahead). 2 For the pastry, put the butter and icing sugar in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix on a low speed until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl using a spatula, then mix again, adding the eggs gradually until combined. Add the orange zest and flour and mix until just combined, then turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently, ensuring there are no lumps of butter left. Shape the dough into a rectangle, wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minutes. (If you don’t have a stand mixer, cream the butter and icing sugar in a mixing bowl using a wooden spoon or electric hand mixer, then beat in the ingredients as above.) 3 Lightly flour a work surface, halve the chilled dough and roll each piece to a

20cm x 30cm x 3mm thick oblong. Put on a baking sheet, stack between sheets of baking paper and chill for 30 minutes. 4 Once chilled and still on baking paper, use a saucer or cup as a guide and cut out 6 x 15cm discs from each sheet. Carefully line each tart case with a disc of pastry and trim off any excess (see tip). Chill for an hour. 5 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3. Line the tart cases with baking paper and ceramic baking beans (or uncooked rice), put on baking sheets and bake for 30 minutes. Remove baking beans/rice and paper and bake for 5 minutes until the pastry feels sandy. Cool in the tins. 6 Set aside 100g strawberry jam for the glaze and divide the remaining jam equally among the cooled cases. When the pastry cream is chilled, transfer to the piping bag and pipe the tarts three-quarters full, covering the jam. 7 Pick the best (and similar in size) strawberries to decorate the tarts. Put a whole strawberry, tip upwards, in the centre of each tart, then halve the remaining ones and arrange around the central strawberry (see picture). 8 Melt the reserved 100g strawberry jam in a small pan with a splash of water and a squeeze of lemon juice and stir until smooth. Brush over the strawberries to glaze. Serve as dessert or as part of an afternoon tea. PER TART 611kcals, 30.1g fat (17.8g saturated), 8.6g protein, 72.6g carbs (37.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, 4.8g fibre

If you’re making lots of these – or aren’t a fan of crème pâtissière, we have a quick and easy solution: buy a 500ml tub of good quality ready-made custard. Whip 200ml double cream to soft peaks, then gently fold it into the custard. Pipe or spoon into the tart cases instead of the crème pâtissière in step 6.



These beauties will be met with oohs, aahs and ooh-la-las – and they taste every bit as good as the ones that grace the windows of Parisian patisseries


BAKE FOR A GOOD CAUSE Why not make these crowdpleasing tarts for the Breast Cancer Care charity, which helps to support the more than 62,000 people in the UK diagnosed with breast cancer each year. This summer, Breast Cancer Care is encouraging people to gather friends for an Afternoon Tea to help raise funds. To get involved and to order a free fundraising kit visit get-involved. 105

just for you.

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Oklava, the first restaurant I opened, is named after the rolling pin traditionally used to make pastries and breads – including pide, this boat-shaped Turkish take on a flatbread or pizza. I love how versatile this recipe is – you can pretty much put anything that takes your fancy on a pide. This version is particularly good as it’s summery and surprisingly light, yet it carries some really punchy flavours.










The Turkish-Cypriot chef draws from her heritage to create the menus at her Shoreditch restaurant Oklava and her new Fitzrovia restaurant Kyseri. After leaving catering college she worked for Peter Gordon (see p74 and p115) at his restaurants The Providores and Kopapa. She opened Oklava with business partner Laura Christie in 2015, has been a finalist on the BBC’s The Great British Menu and last year published her first cookbook.

Turkish pide with marinated artichokes, broccoli & cheese MAKES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN TIME 15 MIN, PLUS PROVING

• 1 tbsp aleppo chilli flakes (from, also sold as pul biber) or regular chilli flakes • ¼ bunch fresh parsley, finely shredded

• Juice 1 lemon • 1 green chilli, finely sliced YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• Pizza stone or sturdy baking sheet Make the dough, let it begin to rise MAKE (step 3), then leave covered in the AHEAD fridge overnight. Bring the dough back to room temperature, then continue. Tulum is an aged Turkish goat’s KNOW- cheese with a pungent flavour. It’s HOW available at Turkish delis and online at If you can’t get it, use a good quality barrel-aged feta instead. Don’t dress the broccoli with FOOD TEAM’S lemon juice until ready to serve TIP or it will discolour. • 2 x 280g jars marinated artichokes in oil, drained thoroughly and cut into quarters • Melted butter for brushing • 6 tbsp tulum cheese (see Know-how) 108


• 360ml lukewarm water • 12g fresh yeast or 7g sachet dried yeast • 12g (about 1 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil • 1 tsp caster sugar • 625g strong white bread flour, plus extra to dust FOR THE GARLIC CREAM

• 280g full-fat cream cheese (we used Philadelphia) • 1 large garlic clove, finely grated • 50g pecorino (or any hard cheese), grated FOR THE BROCCOLI

• 1 broccoli head • 50ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/gas 9 with the pizza stone or baking sheet inside. To make the dough, combine 150ml of the water with the yeast [A], olive oil and sugar in a mixing bowl. Whisk and set aside in a warm place to let the yeast activate and create a froth (5-10 minutes). 2 Put the flour and a large pinch of salt in a large bowl and make a well in the centre. When the yeast mix is frothy, pour it into the well [B] and use your hand/wooden spoon to incorporate it into the flour, slowly adding the rest of water to give a dough that doesn’t stick to your hands. You may need to add a little more water to bring the dough together. 3 Tip the dough onto a flour-dusted surface







and knead for about 5 minutes until smooth [C]. Put the dough in a clean, lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp cloth and leave to rise for an hour or so until doubled in size (see Make Ahead). Meanwhile, make the garlic cream by combining all the ingredients in a bowl, then taste and season. 4 Cut the broccoli into florets, trim the stalk [D] and cut into thin pieces. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the broccoli for 2 minutes (I like it with a bit of crunch). Drain and spread out on a tray to cool. 5 To make the pide, roll the dough into a 40-50cm sausage, then divide into 6 even pieces [E]. Roll into balls and cover with a damp cloth. Roll out a ball of dough on a floured surface into a large oval shape about 25cm x 15cm and 3mm thick [F]. Leaving a border of about 3cm, use the back of a spoon to spread roughly one sixth of the garlic cream down the centre. Top with some artichokes, then fold the edges about

a quarter of the way in to partially enclose in a canoe shape, leaving the filling in the centre exposed [G]. Pinch the ends together to prevent the pide unfolding as they bake. 6 Slide the pide, 2 at a time, onto the hot pizza stone/baking tray (use a pizza paddle if you have one or another baking sheet). Bake for 10-12 minutes until the crust has a golden brown, crisp exterior. Meanwhile, roughly chop the cooled broccoli, then put in a bowl with the olive oil, lemon juice (see tip), chilli and salt and pepper to taste [H]. 7 Transfer the pide to a serving board, brush with melted butter [I], slice it and top with broccoli dressing. Sprinkle with the crumbled tulum cheese, chilli and parsley [J]. Repeat with the other pide and serve. PER PIDE 740kcals, 32.4g fat (13.9g saturated), 23.3g protein, 84.2g carbs (4.8g sugars), 2.4g salt, 9g fibre For more ways to use tulum cheese, see Loose Ends

SELIN’S TIPS FOR SUCCESS → If you can’t roll the dough into the correct shape don’t worry – you can trim the edges with a knife. → Be firm when shaping the dough. Pinching the ends and sides will ensure your pide keep their distinctive shape during cooking. → Serve these with a traditional Turkish chopped salad (pepper/ cucumber/onion/tomatoes and herbs) in a garlicky, sharp pomegranate dressing. → The pide bases are versatile. Mix and match the toppings with different favourite flavours.

NEXT MONTH Classic trofie pasta with watercress, courgette and pecorino





Bright kitchens and a warm welcome; a mouthwatering, simple pea and radish salad

WHERE The Foodworks Cookery School, near Cheltenham (foodworks THE COURSE Sensational Salads and Summer Sides cooking class & lunch, £58 (half day; includes wine) TESTER Laura Day

WHAT IT’S LIKE The Foodworks Cookery School is set in a purpose-built barn in the heart of the Cotswolds. Owner Harriet met us with a big smile and ushered us upstairs to the mezzanine, where we had enough time to grab a cuppa, have a chat and enjoy the view over the bright, well-equipped school below. There’s plenty of space and each student has a set of chef’s tools. The school takes 12 students at a time, just the right number for a buzzy but uncrowded learning environment. WHAT I LEARNED Erin Baker, our tutor, is a vegetarian chef with a fascinating range of recipe ideas and knowledge of flavours. Her tips, tricks and titbits peppered our learning throughout the day. Before we got to work on the cooking, we dabbled in a sort of salad dressing playtime. We were like children being shown the dress-up box: Erin presented a basket of oils, vinegars, mustards, herbs, chillies and citrus fruit as she shared her first rule of salads: “The key to making a good one is the dressing. A chef never sends a salad out naked.” Once we’d learned the ratio for a basic dressing (three parts oil to one part vinegar, or 1 tbsp to 1 tsp), we were let 110

loose on the box to experiment with combinations and seasonings. After mixing and whisking into our ramekins, Erin asked us to taste each other’s dressings, encouraging us to recommend adjustments. “Sometimes just a pinch of salt can bring it all together,” she explained. So why should you bother making your own salad dressings? “A big bottle of vinegar lasts longer and is cheaper than any bottle of salad dressing you can buy – and the possibilities and flavours are endless.” That’s the general gist of the course: demystifying vegetarian and salad cooking using buildable ideas, bold flavours and uncomplicated ingredients. The day offered an excellent mix of demos from Erin, and hands-on teamwork between pairs of coursegoers to create a total of eight salads and dips. Once finished, everything was taken outside to enjoy in the glorious kitchen garden over a glass of wine, along with some extra goodies made by Erin. These

included a huge spicy peanut noodle salad and gluten-free chickpea flatbreads – all exceptionally good. There were plenty of leftovers to take home, too. THE VERDICT The course is fantastic value. We were able to put Erin’s nuggets of wisdom into practice straightaway and the whole thing felt achievable, relaxing and fun. It was easy to make friends as well, as we were encouraged to work together and soon formed a bond. It was an inspiring day with plenty of take-home techniques and recipes that I know I’ll come back to again and again.

THE TAKE-HOME TIPS By expert teacher Erin Baker • If using a highly flavoured oil in a dressing (such as sesame or walnut), keep it as a complement and use 2 parts flavourless oil to 1 part flavoured. • Mustard is a good emulsifier and helps keep a vinaigrette together. • When adding herbs to a dressing, use the chiffonade technique to cut

them into ribbons: layer the leaves flat on top of one another, roll them up, then slice thinly. • Toasting ingredients is an excellent way to add depth of flavour to salads. Seeds, nuts and quinoa all benefit from a few minutes in a hot pan. • When seasoning a dressing or salad, do so bit by bit. You can always add but you can never take away.



in the know.


Baba ghanoush


Make up to 24 hours ahead, cover MAKE and chill. Remove from the fridge AHEAD 30 minutes before serving. The aubergines can be cooked COOK SCHOOL on a barbecue or over a gas flame TIP on the hob for smoky flavour. • 2 large aubergines • 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for roasting • 1 small garlic clove, finely chopped or grated • Juice ½ lemon • 3 fresh parsley sprigs, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve • 2 tsp tahini (optional)

WHERE TO STAY THE PAINSWICK The rolling, folded hills of the Painswick valley are the setting for this 16-bedroom Palladian mansion a 25-minute drive from the cookery school. Some of the rooms are romantically snug, some bright and breezy with a balcony, but all have the eye of a stylist in their design. The hotel has top-notch food, too: chef Jamie McCallum’s seasonal menu makes local produce sing. For drinks before and after dinner, there’s a cosy sitting room, complete with fireplace if you’re visiting in winter, and the small cocktail bar makes a mean espresso martini. Take advantage of the free wellies and maps if you’re up for a walk. Rooms from £159 (breakfast extra);

1 Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/gas 9 or its highest setting. Rub the aubergines all over with oil, then put on a baking sheet. Roast, turning every 15 minutes, for 45-60 minutes or until they’ve collapsed and the skin has charred and blackened (see tip). 2 Remove the aubergines from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Cut them in half, scoop out the flesh (discard the skins) and put into a sieve to drain for 15-20 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, add the remaining ingredients with some salt and pepper, then combine with a fork, gently breaking up the aubergine. Serve sprinkled with parsley as part of a mezze, or as a dip with pitta chips. PER SERVING 268kcals, 21.1g fat (3.2g saturated), 4.9g protein, 8.9g carbs (7.9g sugars), no salt, 11.6g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Ripe, juicy Australian or Chilean rosé. →

Honey & Co At Home: Middle Eastern Recipes From Our Kitchen by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich (Pavilion £26; out 5 July) TESTED BY Susan Low

I’ve been a fan of food from across the Middle East since I discovered Claudia Roden at university (her writing was far more compelling than the Henry James and Edith Wharton I was duty-bound to read, and I learned a lot more from her, too…). It’s been a fixation I’ve nurtured through the Ottolenghi years. I’ve been a devotee of Honey & Co since squeezing into the tiny restaurant Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich opened on Warren Street six years ago, after moving to London from Israel. They have since opened a small deli and a grill house. When this book, their third, came across my desk, I pounced on it. I’m put off by chef’s recipes that are complex and show-offy, but the ‘at home’ tagline set my mind at rest, as did the chapter headings: for us two; for friends; for the weekend; for a crowd – this is the way I cook. I was drawn in by the lure of

recipes for the likes of amba (an Iraqi Jewish relish made from fermented mango) and zaalouk (a spicy aubergine relish). The writing is personal, from the heart – and encouraging, too. “Cooking is easy, and something good is bound to happen if you just follow the recipe,” writes Itamar. Who could feel kitchen fright after reading that? QUALITY OF THE RECIPES “In this book we offer the recipes that make up our home, our lives,” as the authors put it. I went for two simple dishes: chicken in plums and sweet spice from the ‘for us two’ chapter, and medjool date, honey and macadamia breakfast loaf from ‘for the weekend’. The chicken and plum dish combines savoury and sweet/sour notes, rounded out with coriander and fennel seeds and finished with tarragon. It’s deceptively easy – you whizz up the marinade, pour it over the chicken and put it in the fridge to marinate, then pop the chicken, plums and a few other ingredients into a roasting tin and cook. Just a bit of basting is required, and the results are sticky, sweet, incredibly moreish – and undeniably beautiful to look at. If you need the perfect do-ahead dinner party dish, this is it… The sunny flavours of the date and honey loaf, enlivened with clementine and orange, had my name on it. This recipe also scored full marks for simplicity. The butter is melted together with the honey, and all you need is a large spoon to bring


Chicken in plums and sweet spice

the batter together before transferring it to a lined tin and baking. The instructions were spot on and the results luscious. PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN Shots by Patricia Niven are bright and clear. As well as being separated into logical chapters, recipes are also set out by category so it’s super-easy to find what you want to cook. WHO’S THE BOOK SUITABLE FOR? Most recipes are straight-up simple. They do require a bit of shopping for ingredients, but most are now available in supermarkets. VERDICT ★ ★ ★ ★ Visit to find the recipes Susan tested



THE TAS TE TES T LEMON TART Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read here are unbiased.

WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Lemon tart is a crowdpleaser pudding, and a supermarket version can be a valuable stand-in. The pastry should be crisp and buttery with a hint of sweetness (and no soggy bottom!). The filling can be curd or custard-based, but it needs a powerful lemon flavour and a good sweet-sharp balance.


INDIVIDUAL TARTS WINNER Co-op lemon tarts, two-pack, £2.49 for 230g

JOINT WINNER M&S Dessert Menu tarte au citron, £10 for 1.1kg This is a large (serves 12) elegant tart with a subtle lemon filling, and the pastry has a good texture.

JOINT WINNER Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference tarte au citron dessert, £4 for 500g Decent pastry and a mild lemon filling with a grown-up, bitter edge.

RUNNER-UP Booths tarte au citron, £4.50 for 450g Rich custard filling with a sharp lemon zing, which was let down by the slightly damp pastry.

Neat appearance and crisp pastry. The tarts have a distinct tart lemon flavour and just-set texture.

two-pack, £2 for 130g

RUNNER-UP Iceland Luxury Sicilian lemon tartlets,

Patisserie-style tarts with flavourful filling, but very soft pastry.



in the know.





Known as the king of fusion food (see p115 for details of a reader event), Kiwi-born chef and restaurateur Peter Gordon strikes gold again with this book. His trademark magic mixes of ingredients characterise the 170 recipes for breakfast, soups, noodles, mains, side dishes and desserts – straightforward enough for everyday cooking. Jacqui Small £22

Author Thuy Diem Pham, who runs The Little Viet Kitchen restaurant in north London, left Vietnam as a child, and her memories of a faraway country make a poignant introduction to this excellent book. The 100 traditional but updated recipes are the real deal, and the photography is sumptuous. Bloomsbury £22

‘Big, bold vegetarian food’ is the subtitle of chef and food stylist Rich Harris’s second book – and the colourful, flavour-packed recipes live up to the tagline. Harris’s modish dishes take inspiration from around the globe (particularly Asia and Italy). Some are complex, some quick; all have that no-holdsbarred ‘Mmmm’ factor. Kyle Books £19.99; out 5 July

THE GADGE T THE GADGET Char-Broil Digital Electric Smoker £332.99, from or TESTER Aggie MacKenzie

WHY BOTHER? If you’re a Yank at heart and love a feast of smoky pulled pork or baby back ribs, this electric smoker will be right up your street. Or if you have a smallholding and want to smoke your own bacon or fish, this is ideal. It’s fun and easy to use, and once you trawl through the manual (which is quite daunting), you get the drift. WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT THIS ONE? It’s made of stainless steel and well insulated, so the heat is focused on the food. Built-in wheels and handle make it easy to manoeuvre. The control panel with an LED display is clear and

easy to follow, and the removable food thermometer/meat probe allows you to walk away and leave the smoker to do its thing. The glass door allows a view of what’s going on inside, and there’s a large stainless steel locking latch for a smoke-tight seal. ANY DRAWBACKS? Needs to be used outside but isn’t waterproof (as it’s electric). The one I tested survived two short showers while in operation. Ideally, you need a covered patio area to store and operate the smoker – it takes up the same space as an under-the-counter fridge. It would be nice if a starter pack of smoking wood chips (not the easiest thing to get hold of in the UK) was included. THE VERDICT? Not really for me as I don’t smoke enough meat or fish to warrant having one, but it’s a great toy for anyone who likes a gadget, and it produces good results.

GUNPOWDER: EXPLOSIVE FLAVOURS FROM MODERN INDIA Calcutta-born authors Devina Seth and Harneet Baweja moved to London in 2014 and set up Gunpowder restaurant the following year. The tempting recipes are from all over India, from Nagaland in the northeast to the tropical south – guaranteed to excite anyone who loves Indian food. Kyle Books £25


Raise your barbecue game with an electric smoker 113

just for you.


WORTH £500

...and win a sourdough course


ook the tomato tart on this month’s cover and you could be off to Hobbs House Bakery in the Cotswolds for a one-day course with bread and baking guru Tom Herbert. Plus: you’ll get a ‘no knead sourdough kit’ with cast iron pot, proving basket, dough scraper and a jar of a unique 63-year-old starter. You’ll also receive a monthly supply of sourdough loaves for a year.; see their Sourdough Nation Facebook page to find out how to be crowned #KingoftheSourdough FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make the tart on our July cover, take a photograph and share it with us**


Become a sourdough master with a Hobbs House Bakery course, essential kit and a year’s supply of bread

TO ENTER & FOR Ts&Cs, GO TO deliciousmagazine. MAY’S WINNER

• Shireen Ferguson wins a private chef evening for her pesto chicken 114


A taste of sunshine • So simple, so good: 3 of the best Mary Berry bakes & puds • Rick Stein’s outstanding shellfish recipes • Healthy vegetarian feasts • A pack-and-go picnic feast • Sensational ice creams for steamy summer days



16 extra pages of recipes & know-how The summer recipes you need in your life right now – and forever: the very best of holiday reminders





Take me to THE WATER

New Brunswick, on Canada’s east coast, is the historical land of the Acadians, early French settlers of North America. It’s a place of big skies, blue ocean and peaceful rivers, and those waters teem with wonderfully pure seafood. Hugh Thompson hits the Trans-Canada Highway and tries it all, from the workaday (smelts and mackerel) to the luxurious (caviar and lobster). Around here they like to eat it fresh… Very fresh

hungry traveller.


Beware moose on the Trans-Canada Highway; at the Fils du Roy distillery, time waits on the whisky; fresh crab for sale in the fishing town of Caraquet; 18th-century life in the Historic Acadian Village

I’d come to New Brunswick to learn about Canada’s first settlers, the Acadians, and how they survived the brutal winters, but arriving in July I was pleasantly surprised to be motoring along an empty Trans-Canada Highway in a balmy 25°C with the biggest bluest skies above me. First stop was Moncton, a busy transport hub. In the Tide & Boar ( microbrewery and gastro pub, I met owner Chad Steeves, who offered me a Sour Otis Strawberry Pie ale – named after his grandad and brewed with wild strawberries and pie crust. Like the beer, Tide & Boar’s menu had plenty of creative touches. Chad’s chefs do a lot of pickling, smoking and curing of fish and meat in-house. Oysters are a big thing in New Brunswick so Chad shucked a few local ones for me and explained about oyster ‘terroir’. Blue pearl oysters from the muddy Northumberland strait, were roundish and tasted sweet and earthy; oysters from the Bay of Fundy, washed by the strong Pacific tides, were bigger and more saline. The next day chef Pierre Richard (see recipe, p120), who creates exquisite dishes at one of Moncton’s smartest restaurants Little Louis’ Oyster Bar (, took me to see oyster farmer Donald Caissie. Donald has 2 million blue pearl oysters in 800 cages bobbing just below the surface of the sea. We helped flip over some of the heavy cages to let the sunlight kill off algae and mussels growing on the shells, giving the oysters the clean look loved by restaurants. Pierre and Donald talked about how foraging in the sea and on the seashore helped keep the Acadians alive. It’s part of their history and still a popular activity. As if to prove it, Donald brought out fishing rods to troll for mackerel on the way back. On shore, in the car park, Pierre opened up the boot of his car for an impromptu tailgate picnic. He deftly

filleted a couple of the mackerel we’d caught and, with a splash of lemon juice and a scattering of pickled radishes and sea salads, he’d soon created a beautiful plate of food. The mackerel was so tender and fresh-tasting. Donald opened a few of the oysters and Pierre added a dash of cocktail sauce spiked with kimchi – juicy, salty, with a sweet note and then a hit of heat. It was a beautiful feast but I did find myself longing for something cooked… From Moncton it’s a two-hour drive south to the port city of St John, near where the St John river empties out into the Bay of Fundy. The landscape became more rolling and lush and there was the unmistakeable smell of dairy farms in the air. I stopped for a break at Kredl’s Corner market (kredls. com). The place was busy with customers and filled with produce from local farms, including haskap berries – like a large, elongated blueberry with a sweet-tart taste. I cooled off with a large dollop of haskap ice cream, trying both of the local specialities in one fell scoop.

LIVING THE HIGH LIFE Before reaching St John, I stopped at leafy Carter’s Point where I met Cornel Ceapa and his wife Dorina who run the Acadian Sturgeon & Caviar Company (, one of the last legal wild sturgeon caviar fisheries in the world. Cornel has a PhD on sturgeon ecology and knows everything about these fish that swam with dinosaurs over 200 million years ago. He’s incredibly passionate about his project. As well as running a sustainable wild fishery, he farms sturgeon and helps other countries to restock their waters. After a quick tour of the facility, Cornel treated me to a fishy feast that included a bronzed, barbecued 1.2m sturgeon. Sturgeon meat is dense, oily and packed with nutrients – perfect for smoking. Over the next two hours I tried sturgeon raw, smoked, barbecued and many more ways, then finished with a prosecco → 117





Kouchibouguac National Park → BOUCTOUCHE l SHEDIAC l




Canada’s North

Hudson Bay

Prairies Ontario

l SAINT JOHN Atlantic Provinces





Bay of Fundy




Nova Scotia

syllabub topped with caviar. When I told Cornel I didn’t see what the fuss was about caviar, he replied: “Listen, life is beautiful; you have things to celebrate in life. Caviar is a celebration just like opening a bottle of champagne, something to be shared with the people you love. It’s not for every

MEET THE PRODUCER Sébastien Roy is the brains behind Fils du Roy distillery just outside Caraquet. He started brewing aged 14 and fermented his way through college. His aim is to make the best whisky in Canada, but whisky takes time, so he brews beer and distils gin and vodka to fund his project. Every drink Sébastien makes tells a story about Acadian history: his two beers Evangeline and Gabriel recall the thwarted Acadian lovers of HW Longfellow’s poem who were separated when fleeing the British. One is a fruity spruce beer, the other a nutty ale – unite the lovers by mixing the two in a glass and you get a wonderful balanced drink. Ah, sweet. Call or drop by for tours (facebook. com/DistillerieFilsDuRoyInc;

day, it’s expensive but it’s special.” We tried the farmed and wild caviar in the sort of quantities usually only available to Russian oligarchs. Cornel demonstrated the ritual. You make a loose fist with your hand and deposit a clump of eggs on the top near the base of the thumb. Then, after admiring the glistening baubles, you slurp them into your mouth and feel the eggs dissolving on your tongue as the buttery briny flavours develop. Next, you cleanse the palate with champagne or vodka – and repeat as many times as your wallet (and your liver) will allow. After a good few attempts, I was officially a – slightly slurring – fan.

THE REVERSING RAPIDS St John is strategically positioned with the river on one side and the Bay of Fundy on the other. The tidal swell in the bay is so great it pushes the St John river back upstream, creating the famous Reversing Rapids. I strolled round St John City Market (, which dates back to 1876 – it claims to be the oldest in North America. It’s a good spot to pick up a lobster, snow

crab or a loaf of sourdough. The market’s high-beamed roof is like an upturned boat, testament to the city’s shipbuilding heritage. Walking around, it was noticeable how shopkeepers instantly switched from French to English when necessary, saving my rusty French blushes. As the evening drew on, the promenades on the river filled with people and the waters started to churn as the tide changed direction. Music drifted out of restaurants and the bars quickly filled up. At St John Ale House (saintjohnale chef and co-owner Jesse Vergen introduced himself with a whiskey sour cocktail made with wild strawberries (Acadians are very hospitable). Jesse has a small farm just outside town where he grows vegetables and herbs for the restaurant (everyone I met in New Brunswick had at least two jobs), and if he’s not cooking or farming, he’s hunting, fishing or foraging. Jesse brought over devilled quahog clams (hurrah, they’re cooked!), followed by chunky lobster bisque with lovage, some sticky pulled pork (yum) with pickled fiddlehead ferns, and I finished with bread and butter

hungry traveller.


pudding with haskap berries. Jesse’s food was satisfying pub grub, but with many sophisticated touches.


ON THE ACADIAN TRAIL The next day I headed back north to Shediac (where a lot of New Brunswick lobsters are landed) to follow the Acadian Trail west along the coast. Driven out from their lands, the Acadians settled on the less fertile land by the sea where they wouldn’t be disturbed. The landscape is very flat, and as you skim across rivers via low bridges between frequent sightings of the sea, the boundaries between land and water seem to melt away. My next stop was the Pays de la Sagouine, Bouctouche. It’s a small historical theme park inspired by the 1971 novel by Antonine Maillet, La Sagouine (The Washerwoman), which describes Acadian life. The book’s popularity helped resurrect Acadian pride in their history and started a movement to protect their culture. The park is a reproduction of a Prohibition-era fishing village set on an island, reached by a snaking walkway. In the restaurant I tried some Acadian specialities including

poutine rapée. This is a glutinous ball of grated and mashed potato encasing a centre of salted ham, which is eaten sprinkled with brown sugar. I found it a claggy mix of plain, salty and sweet, the sugar gritty against my teeth. Sugar was added to Acadian food as it needed to be high-calorie to fuel manual work in such a harsh environment – poutine rapée was the perfect energy ball. Outside, a band was playing lively banjo and fiddle music to a crowd of families (Acadians are known for their partying – life is tough and short, so enjoy it while you can). With music ringing in my ears and poutine rapée sitting heavily in my stomach, I continued heading west. Caraquet is a small fishing town on a finger of land that pushes out into the Gulf of St Lawrence. I checked into Hotel Paulin (hotel, a pretty red clapboard seaside inn with the Acadian flag flying proudly from its flagpole. The next day Karen Mersereau, Hotel Paulin’s co-owner and chef, took me foraging to find something for the night’s supper. We jumped into kayaks (kayak and were soon sliding across the

These were French colonists who settled around the Bay of Fundy in 1604. For over 100 years they were caught in the middle of a fight for supremacy between the French and the British until 1713, when the French ceded the lands settled by the Acadians to England. The settlers were allowed to remain if they swore an oath of allegiance to England. Their refusal (and some resistance) resulted in expulsion in 1755, when they were sent to the American colonies, at which point British settlers and American loyalists moved in. When the Acadians were allowed to return, the only lands left for them were the harsh margins of the country.

shallows to nearby sand bars. Our guide Frédéric showed us the telltale bubbles of a clam blow hole. We dug up large sand clams (good for chowder) as well as better tasting razor clams and greyblue palourde clams. Next, we dragged our kayaks onto the beach and headed to the marshy coastline. Karen was looking for goose tongues (they’re long and thin… like goose tongues). Within 10 minutes we had filled two trugs with the sea greens, so we stowed our finds and paddled back. Hungry from our exertions, we stopped at Caraquet’s lobster van La Homard Mobile for a lobster roll and chips. It cost CA$13.95 (£8) for half a lobster in a soft bun with salad and mayo and fries. No gimmicks, no spicy sauces, just meaty chunks of sweet lobster. Simple perfection. Karen went to get some meat →


Cocktails at St John Ale House; the lobster van is open for business; radishes and sea salads make a tailgate picnic; local produce at Kredl’s market; the Hotel Paulin; oysters are the thing here; a kayak is essential when foraging; barbecuing a huge sturgeon 119

hungry traveller.

for dinner, while I visited the Fils du Roy distillery (see Meet the Producer, p118). That night Karen served pâté made from lobster tomalley (liver) – powerful in a way the tailmeat isn’t. Next up was a platter of spanking fresh fruits de mer (just caught that morning!), then a perfectly cooked lamb chop with chanterelle mash and salty goose tongues. I finished with tarte au sucre – a classic Acadian pud. The next day I dropped into the Historic Acadian Village (village just outside Caraquet. It’s a large, pleasant site in the countryside with genuine 18th century wooden buildings where you can get a feeling for how the Acadians lived, farmed and cooked in the 18th century (you can take part in an Acadian cookery class). Returning to the airport, I made a last stop at Kouchibouguac National Park for a cooling paddle at sandy Kelly’s beach, which is reached by a 1km boardwalk across the salt marshes. The park is dotted with campsites and you can hunt for clams, explore walking trails or join in all sorts of activities. As I took a moment to enjoy the pristine wilderness of marshes, forests, rivers and lagoons, I was struck by how this is what it must have been like when the Acadians first settled here.

New Brunswick smelts, boqueronesstyle SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, PLUS 3 DAYS BRINING & MARINATING

Chef Pierre Richard from Little Louis’ Oyster Bar likes to serve smelts like Spanish boquerones (anchovies) as a starter. Ask your fishmonger to remove the head and guts from the fish as they’re delicate and the flesh is easily damaged. FOOD TEAM’S TIP

GETTING THERE Air Canada flies from London to Nova Scotia’s Halifax airport (under 6 hours’ flight). It’s a 2-hour drive to New Brunswick on the Trans-Canada Highway through mile after mile of thick evergreen forest.


• 16 fresh smelts or anchovies, heads and guts removed (see tip) • 1 tbsp coarse salt • 250ml white wine vinegar • 85g sugar


• 3-4 garlic cloves, sliced • ¼ onion, sliced • ½ red pepper, sliced • 1 tsp aleppo (or regular) chilli flakes • 250ml olive oil TO SERVE

• Fresh chives, chopped • Sea salt flakes • Aleppo (or regular) chilli flakes • Grated lemon zest • Extra-virgin olive oil 1 Season the fish with the salt. Mix 65ml water, the vinegar and sugar until dissolved. Put the fish in a glass or ceramic bowl, cover with the liquid and chill for 18 hours. 2 Remove the fish from the liquid and dry on kitchen

paper. For each fish, open out a fillet and press gently on the spine to loosen it. Pull the spine away, trying not to pull away too much flesh. Halve the fillet lengthways. 3 Lay the fish flat in a sealable airtight container, then scatter over the garlic, onion, pepper and chilli flakes. Cover with oil and marinate for 2 days. (They’ll keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks, covered in oil.) 4 To serve, remove the fillets from the oil, sprinkle with chopped chives, sea salt, chilli flakes and lemon zest. Drizzle with olive oil, then serve with good bread. PER SERVING 160kcals, 8.4g fat (1.4g saturated), 21.1g protein, no carbs, 2.6g salt, no fibre



festival fever.

A SUMMER OF GREAT FOOD High summer is upon us and festival season is in full swing. All across the land, food lovers are meeting local producers, trying their products and being inspired by demos from their food heroes. This year there’s an added attraction: delicious. is visiting the best festivals to judge the regional heats of our Produce Awards. Come and say hello, support your local producers and meet the gang in the Social Kitchen, run by appliance makers Fisher & Paykel, our awards partner.


This prestigious show has been held for more than 150 years in the glorious Perthshire countryside and offers a top-drawer food festival with lots of added fun: livestock shows, showjumping, huge tractors for children to goggle at, and much more…

• Rosemary Shrager • Nick Nairn • Perthshire On A Plate: a variety of pop-up restaurants for all to try







With its jumble of ancient timberframe buildings, the historical market town of Nantwich must be the prettiest setting for a food festival anywhere in the UK – and it attracts some big stars, with a proper festival atmosphere throughout the town.

The elegant Regency spa town of Leamington plays host to a celebration of produce from the Heart of England and further afield in the Royal Pump Gardens. More than 150 stalls will be offering their wares, and top local chefs will entertain in the cookery theatre.

• GBBO 2017 winner Sophie Faldo • TV chef Paul Rankin • Family entertainment throughout the town

• Kids’ cookery school • Live music in the bandstand • Taste Leamington: nibbles from top local restaurants



Independent cafés, craft breweries and restaurants with seasonal, fiercely local menus have turned Yorkshire’s biggest city into a food hub. Lorna Parkes explores the hotspots to check out


Leeds’ Centenary Bridge; Eat Your Greens and its charred leek and pea broth; craft beer at Friends of Ham; The Reliance; Morning Cakes from Noisette Bakehouse; Northern Monk Brew Co’s old flax mill; one of the seasonal dishes at The Swine That Dines; North Brewing Co’s taproom

Now’s the ideal time for a weekend in Leeds, when the days are longer and less chilly. Once an important centre of this country’s industrial heartland, the city now enjoys a well-earned reputation as a thriving, creative university town with great food, drink and nightlife.


Artisan coffee has taken off in a big way in Leeds, in part thanks to local brothers David and James Olejnik, who opened trend-setting café Laynes Espresso (laynes by the station after a mega successful residency in a Leeds co-working/events space. The food is as memorable as the coffee; try the Yorkshire rarebit – a wedge of caraway-seeded rye toast topped with tangy bechamel and a side of Henderson’s Relish. Leeds also has its own coffee roastery, North Star Coffee Shop & General Store (, which last year opened its minimalist café in collaboration with local bakery Noisette Bakehouse (noisette One side is dominated by giant glass doors, so customers can watch the roastery in action while they enjoy coffee and exquisite cakes. It’s a spectacle.


If the weather turns sour, it’s time to go grazing. The offering at Friends of Ham ( uk), again near the station, is simple: top-quality British and 122

European charcuterie and cheese nibbles with good wine and beer. At Bundobust ( around the corner it’s vegetarian Indian street food bites and craft beer – the salty okra fries are a favourite with drinkers. West Yorkshire’s South Asian immigrant heritage is championed in the new food hall at Kirkgate Market, where award-winning, family-run Punjabi-inspired street-food truck Manjit’s Kitchen ( has found a permanent home. It’s famous for its veggie snacks including chilli paneer wraps and onion bhajis with tamarind chutney. In the oldest part of the market (where Mr Marks of ‘& Spencer’ fame first set up shop), be sure to stop at Algerian-owned Café Moor ( for a saffron and pistachio baklava or fresh orange juice with hibiscus.


Yorkshire has an illustrious brewing heritage, and if you like beer you can find nirvana in the urban taprooms of two of Leeds’ best microbreweries, which serve hoppy craft beers and host regular tours. Northern Monk Brew Co ( is set within a Grade II-listed flax mill in the red-brick regeneration area of Holbeck. At the other end of town, North Brewing Co (northbrewing. com) has expanded its industrialunit taproom and holds a craftbeer-and-street-food festival every Saturday throughout the summer

months called EatNorth. The event is partially alfresco, set to a DJ soundtrack, and pulls in a varied and enthusiastic crowd.


While the good old Sunday roast will never go out of fashion and traditional pub offerings are a given in Leeds, the city has a whole lot more to offer. The Reliance ( is a modern gastropub serving rare-breed local meat with Yorkshire puddings on Sundays, alongside homemade charcuterie and natural wines. Ox Club ( is a bit fancier. It’s billed as a grill restaurant, but don’t let that fool you. Dishes run the gamut from turbot with kani-miso (crab brains for the uninitiated) and sake, to venison tartare in smoked fat, and everything on the menu is as good as it sounds. For a write-home experience without a painful price tag, book a table for Sunday lunch at Home (, near Kirkgate Market. It takes familiar British dishes and reinvents them as exceptional fine dining based around seasonal multicourse menus; on Sundays, the menu pays homage to flavours of a traditional roast. The restaurant opened last year and is run by Liz Cottam, a 2016 MasterChef semi-finalist, and Mark Owens, whose Michelinstarred CV includes stints at Le Gavroche in London and the Box Tree in Yorkshire.



hungry traveller.


With veganism on the rise and fantastic farm produce on the city’s doorstep, chefs are starting to give credence to interesting plant-based menus. Try The Swine That Dines (, a BYO venue that only ever offers one dinner menu: a seasonal, sevencourse sharing extravaganza that (ironically) partially sidelines meat while celebrating veg dishes. Eat Your Greens (eatyour has taken things one step further. Though meat does appear on the menu, it’s tasty vegan offerings such as savoury porridge with Jerusalem artichoke, charred cucumber and liquorice that really stand out.


Take the free boat taxi from Granary Wharf, the revitalised canalside area, to Leeds’ Royal Armouries ( museum, or stroll through Leeds Art Gallery (, which has emerged from its two-year refurbishment to show off pared-back, barrel-vaulted galleries and a two-storey Lothar Götz mural that doffs a flat-cap to Leeds’ street art scene – well worth a browse. And for some retail action I recommend exploring the shops and pop-ups at the giant Corn Exchange and ornate historic Victorian shopping arcades that burrow into alleyways off Briggate – Thornton’s Arcade and the Victoria Quarter are historic and stunning.


DAKOTA DELUXE (leeds. has brought a new level of luxury to the city, with an elegant sepia-tinted interior. Doubles from £110. 42 THE CALLS ( is set in a riverside 18th-century flour mill with exposed brick walls and characterful old mill machinery incorporated into the décor. Doubles from £100.



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See how much you really know about the world of food with Hugh Thompson’s culinary conundrum. Answers next month

ACROSS 1 6 7 9 10 13 15 17 18 19

Fruit and nut salad created for a charity ball at a New York hotel (7) Cooked cow’s udder, once popular in Lancashire (5) Yeast _______: there’s a famous brand you either love or hate (7) Italian for garlic (5) Caribbean island, Trinidad’s partner, known for crab ‘n’ dumplin’ (6) Where you can find scales, a fish and a crab (hint: look upwards) (6) _____-bouche: a bite-size appetiser (5) A hot-and-sour curry that always features lentils (7) Italian town famous for its Christmas cake, panforte (5) Once popular for jelly, these fruits are now rarely used (7)

DOWN 1 2 3 4 5 8 11 12 14 16

One of the oldest and most important cereal crops (5) Citrus fruit, originally a hybrid between pomelo and mandarin (6) Greek sheep or goat’s milk curd cheese (4) Alpine flower used in folk medicine, and The Sound of Music (9) Local name for Newcastle Brown Ale (5) Middle Eastern salad: parsley, mint, tomato, onion, bulgur wheat (9) The country of pierogi (filled dumplings) and bigos (winter stew) (6) Japanese breaded cutlet, usually served with a curry sauce (5) _____ and Ale: 1930 novel by W Somerset Maugham (5) Dutch cheese known for its distinctive red wax covering (4)

Solution to no. 54 ACROSS: 1. Mussels 6. Aioli 7. Pudding 9. Enoki 10. Éclair 13. Morels 15. Olive 17. Seaweed 18. Gouda 19. Urchins DOWN: 1. Maple 2. Emilia 3. Sage 4. Bolognese 5. Mirin 8. delicious. 11. Mosaic 12. Soggy 14. Sides 16. Esau


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JULY 2018

RECIPE INDEX 87 STARTERS, SIDES & NIBBLES • Baba ghanoush 111 • Charred broad beans with soy & mirin dressing and 58 smoked chilli salt • Danish breakfast buns 36 • Deep-fried spring rolls 96 • Fruit and herb buckwheat salad 68 • Green houmous with smoked almond dukkah 66 • Lighter creamy coleslaw 89 • New Brunswick smelts, boquerones-style 120 • Roasted baby carrots with creamy feta dressing 68 • Smoked mackerel rillettes with rye crisps 33 • Warm dill pesto potatoes 35

MAIN COURSES BEEF • Glazed beef kebabs with iceberg slaw 24 • Merguez burger with preserved lemon guacamole 72 PORK • Pan-seared pork tenderloin with cherry and red wine sauce 52

54 • Salade Lyonnaise 40 • Singapore pork and prawn noodles 81 FISH AND SHELLFISH • Caesar tagliatelle 81 • Cod and parsley fishcakes 28 • Cumin-cured salmon 70 • DIY hot-smoked trout 62 • Hot-smoked trout, new potato & beetroot salad with dill and horseradish 62 • Moules Basquaise 44 • Prawn laksa skewers 25 • Salmon poke bowl 19 • Smoked haddock and watercress fishcakes 30 • Whole roast plaice with anchovy & sage butter, new potatoes & sea vegetables 26 LAMB • Lamb shish with olive & walnut tahini 90 • Zesty lamb chops with couscous 82 • Zhoug lamb with ras el hanout 66 POULTRY • Chimichurri chicken wings with spiced rice salad 24

82 • Creamy chicken cacciatore 91 • Mexican chicken taco salad 82 • Pot roast chicken with parsley 34 • Summer broad bean cassoulet 42 VEGETARIAN & VEG-BASED • Broad bean tabbouleh salad 57 • Chilled pea soup 87 • Courgette & buttermilk salad 4 • Courgettes with chilli and coconut spiced yogurt & poached eggs 83 • Japanese-style omelette 86 • One-pot orzo with feta & olives 84 • Marinated Greek salad 91 • Stir-fried brown rice with holy basil sauce 97 • Tapenade pappardelle with ricotta 90 • Teriyaki and sesame aubergines with rice 85 • Tofu larb salad 96 • Tomato, thyme and ricotta tart 88 • Turkish pide with marinated artichokes, broccoli & cheese 108

25 SWEET THINGS • Gooseberry pavlova 36 • Italian cherry and almond tart 54 • Orange blossom, lemon thyme and almond cake with rosé red berries 70 • Roasted buttered cherries with orange sabayon and toasted almonds 54 • Savoyarde bilberry tart 42 • Strawberry, Cointreau and orange tarts 104 • Timmy’s mo-yos 74

OTHER • Barbecue sauce 100 • Cherry negroni 53 • Cucumber gin fizz 102 • Elderflower collins 102 • Pomegranate spritz 66 • Raspberry caipirinha 102 • Swiss cherry conserve 52

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a good rant.

Why picnics aren’t worth the bother E

very car journey, every summer, my husband and I have the same argument: sunroof open or sunroof closed? I’m firmly sunroof closed. I like a sunny day as much as the next pale-skinned Anglo-Saxon factor 50-smothered person with an aversion to her hair whipping about and sticking to her lipstick. Which is to say, I like the idea of it probably more than I like the reality of it. There is an enormous pressure that comes with a warm day and that is – on our damp little island – the crushing responsibility to enjoy it. The weather forecaster has barely finished saying “sunny intervals” when some heat-crazed lunatic will suggest eating outside. Which is fine, if that ‘outside’ is no more than 20 metres from a fridge and stove – that is to say, right next to your kitchen. Any further than that, disappointment lies. I speak from bitter experience. For picnics past, I doggedly toted hampers, blankets and cushions across fields, along beaches and through woodland in search of the perfect spot. As one who also hates to eat with the sun directly on her head (sunroof CLOSED), there was also the challenge of finding the perfect shady spot, or lugging a parasol along too. Then there were the tubs of salad, chicken wings in their tin foil sarcophagi, 130

The pies might not have had soggy bottoms, but the rest of us weren’t always so fortunate pies and tarts packed with the precision of an engineer, the Thermoses of ice and sorbet, all as though I were attempting to re-create Tissot’s painting, The Picnic (clue: if you need a samovar, you’ve gone too far). I am sure the parachute regiment takes less with them on manoeuvres. And was it worth it? To be frank, the reality was rarely an Instagram-able ode to bucolic loveliness. Bruised fruit, bashed tarts, sweaty cheese, melting ice, drinks too warm or too cold, never quite getting comfortable – the pies might not

have had soggy bottoms, but the rest of us weren’t always so fortunate. So far, so not fun. For entertainment, there were always flies, wasps and mosquitos to see off, and ham-crazy hounds (some of which didn’t even belong to me) to deter. And after all that work in the kitchen, my lovingly prepared food lost some of its allure when dolloped out of plastic tubs onto plastic plates to be eaten with plastic cutlery. I’m aware that every summer homeware companies treat us to new lines of jolly picnicware, but I’m never going to want to drink good wine out of an acrylic glass. Sorry. And then, of course, once you’ve enjoyed yourself enough, you’ve got to schlep the whole messy lot back with you, praying that nothing breaks, spills, leaks or stinks, all the way home. So I happily embrace another summer forgoing the grubby hurly-burly of the picnic blanket for the deep, deep peace of the dining room table. Next time the sun’s out, why don’t you come round to mine and we can eat together – in the lovely, cool shade. Do you agree with Debora or do you take a different view? Tell us at and we’ll print the best replies


As soon as we get five minutes of sunshine, why does everyone insist we grab blankets (and half the contents of our kitchen) and haul ourselves off to the great outdoors to eat? This summer, says Debora Robertson, it’s time to hold firm and organise a dining room sit-in