WIN! A CLASSIC PASHLEY BIKE WORTH £1,000 ON SALE 1-31 AUGUST 2018 £4.50
Properly satisfying main meal salads
MARY BERRY reveals the art of the easy pudding
ICE CREAM HAS NEVER TASTED
Rick Stein’s sizzling guide to shellfish
TO RÕS TH E CO LL EC
ED ITI ON
EAN MEDITERRAN KITCHEN
Blackcurrant ripple ice cream sandwiches
FREE! BRING HOME A TASTE OF THE SUN
extra pages of NEW recipes
Halloumi fries • Patatas bravas • Finest sunshine meze Chicken & artichoke pie • Prawn saganaki… And more
• THE POSH PICNIC • TOP VEGAN BURGER • ZOE ADJONYOH • THE JOY OF CONVENIENCE FOOD
PERFECT TASTE STRAIGHT FROM THE TAP UNBOTTLED WATER BY GROHE BLUE HOME FILTERED AND CHILLED. STILL, MEDIUM OR SPARKLING. A beautiful and intelligent system that transforms simple water into pure thirst-quenching pleasure. How do you like your water? Still, medium or sparkling, itâ€™s all a matter of taste. GROHE Blue Home has a simple and intuitive mechanism that lets you carbonate your drinking water at the touch of a button. Deliciously cool filtered water. grohe.co.uk
AUGUST Summer… What does it mean to you? Are you all
about escaping abroad, experiencing new tastes and bringing flavours back home? Or are you a staycation-ophile, relishing the scores of good things here in the UK? Wherever and whatever your happy place, most of us probably agree the feel of sun on your back and soft sand between toes is hard to beat. This month we’ve tried to satisfy as many food yearnings and capture as many vibey relaxation moments as we can, starting with a guide to shellfish from fishmeister Rick Stein (p35). I always thought you weren’t supposed to eat mussels in August (no ‘r’ in the month), but Rick tells me you can, I believe him and I’m going to, inspired by his fine recipes. By contrast, uber-talent Zoe Adjonyoh is our new writer in residence and has created exciting food moments inspired by a trip to Kenya, where she met two women who gave her the full Kenyan flavour immersion (p48). I’m ever eager to try new dishes, and Zoe’s recipes deliver in full measure, along with stories and down-to-earth advice on ingredients that, I hope, will entice you to experiment beyond your repertoire. I have to mention Debora Robertson’s defence of convenience food, too (p16). I’m in her camp: I hold no truck with food snobbishness. In fact I’d go so far as to say it’s the enemy of getting more people to cook, which is surely the subtle mission of anyone who cares about a) food, b) health and c) the planet we inhabit. Debora has a knack of delivering a powerful message with humour. I, for one, am going to be adding a few new timesavers to my freezer storecupboard, top of the list being frozen chopped chillies – not least because I wear contact lenses. If you wear them, you’ll share my pain-memories… Need I say more? Wishing you a fully delicious.-infused summer!
KAREN BARNES, EDITOR
Follow Karen on Twitter @deliciouseditor
and on Instagram @editorkarenb
DON’T MISS OUT! Turn to p58 for our special offer. Subscribe to delicious. magazine and get Jack Stein’s new book FREE.
August FIVE GOOD THINGS TO DO BY EDITOR KAREN BARNES
1 It’s all about the vista
2 Bid for life
What’s the best picnic spot in the UK? Drinks company Fentimans recently did a survey to find out, and top of the rankings came Durdle Door in Dorset, followed by Buttermere in the Lake District and Tenby in Pembrokeshire (right). Mine is Gillan Beach in Cornwall, where my uncle lives – one of the last secluded Cornish spots (it’s hard to find). Where’s yours? Tell us at readers@ delicious magazine.co.uk and we’ll publish the best next year. Meanwhile, if you need inspiration for the picnic hamper, turn to p60 for treats in store.
For the first time, Auction Against Hunger is being hosted in Manchester at Upper Campfield Market Hall in Barton Street and it’s guaranteed to be a lot of fun. The legendary event, usually held in the capital, takes place on 6 September and is an entertaining mix of music festival, food festival and money-raising auction in aid of the superb charity Action Against Hunger, which works to reduce world hunger. Visit actionagainsthunger.org.uk for details; contact s.lloyd@actionagainst hunger.org.uk for tickets (price £50).
Five quick things to make with… Peaches The summery cocktail Put 2 ripe peaches, stoned and diced, 2 tsp lemon juice and ½ tsp caster sugar in a food processor or blender and whizz until smooth. Pass the purée through a sieve (discard the solids), then divide among 6 champagne glasses. Top up with chilled prosecco and garnish with fresh basil leaves.
Put 600ml water, 350g caster sugar, 1 vanilla pod and the pared zest and juice of 1 lemon in a pan. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring, then add 8 halved and stoned yellow peaches and simmer for 10-15 minutes until soft. Skin them, if you like, then serve with ice cream and crumbled amaretti biscuits.
Easy summer tart
Unroll a 375g sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry, then score with a 1cm border. Bake for 20 minutes at 220°C/ 200°C fan/gas 7 until puffed and
golden. Leave to cool, then push down the middle. Mix 250g mascarpone with the grated zest and juice of 1 lime and 2 tbsp icing sugar. Spread the mixture inside the border, top with sliced ripe peaches, drizzle with honey and sprinkle with fresh mint.
The barbecue side
Halve and stone 4 peaches, then barbecue or griddle, cut-side down, until lightly charred. Cut into wedges, then toss with 4 torn prosciutto slices, 25g pecans, 90g rocket leaves, 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar and a glug of olive oil.
Mini melba pavlovas
Slice 3 peaches, then mix with 100g fresh raspberries, 2 tbsp honey and 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves. Leave to macerate for 20 minutes. Whip 200ml double cream with 1 tbsp icing sugar to soft peaks, then divide among 8 mini meringue nests. Spoon over the fruit mixture and serve straightaway.
3 Swim for your supper
There’s a revival of lidos going on – and two of them have excellent food offerings attached, both overseen by up-and-coming chef Freddy Bird. If you book a ‘Swim and Eat’ package, you can work up an appetite in the pool, then reward yourself with a slap-up dinner while watching others doing their lengths. Thames Lido (thameslido. com) is in Reading, or there’s Bristol lido (this picture; lidobristol.com) – both stylish restorations of Edwardian and Victorian architecture.
4 Table of the month
RECIPES & FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. TENBY PHOTOGRAPH: TIM HILL
Padella restaurant on the edge of London’s Borough Market is known for two things: its great freshly made pasta and its queues. Now it has a rival. Lina Stores in Soho, which started trading 75 years ago, has opened a café in Greek Street and it’s very good. Sit at the bar and have a fine negroni, a plate of wafer-thin parma ham, pappardelle with rabbit ragù or ricotta herb gnudi with brown butter. To finish: the zingiest lemon sorbet with limoncello poured over. It’s not a place to linger, but it’s a place to love. Go before the queues get too long. linastores.co.uk
5 Wild food
Take a trip into your nearest bit of untamed countryside and seek out the first blackberries in the hedgerows – earlier than ever this year because of the June-July heatwave. Back home, throw those (washed) berries in a dish with some British plums, squeeze over the juice of a lime and a glug of cassis (or any sweet liqueur), then cover with foil and bake in a medium oven until the fruit is tender. Serve hot with cream for dessert or cold with yogurt for breakfast.
42 AUGUS T 2018
ON THE COVER
YOUR RECIPE INSPIR ATION
15 WEB EXCLUSIVE Raspberry meringue pie 20 ALWAYS A WINNER: ICE CREAM Three next-level scoops for the summer
24 ROAST OF THE MONTH A smoky Spanishstyle roast chook is truly delicioso
26 RECIPE HALL OF FAME Debbie Major goes NO-CHURN BLACKCURRANT RIPPLE ICE CREAM SANDWICHES, p23 Recipe & food styling Jen Bedloe Photograph Toby Scott Styling Davina Perkins
retro with melt-in-the-mouth quiche
35 RICK STEIN’S GUIDE TO SUMMER SHELLFISH
42 STAR OF THE SEASON: SWEETCORN Go for gold with these flavour-packed cobs
45 GILL MELLER The River Cottage chef takes a walk on the wild (rabbit) side
After p130 you’ll find 16 pages of Mediterranean recipes to inspire your cooking
three effortless yet impressive bakes
72 8 POSH SARNIES Clever filling ideas
BE A BE T TER COOK 100 IN THE delicious. KITCHEN Tips, tricks and know-how from our experts
104 WEEKEND PROJECT Slow-cooked brisket 107 CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Hand-rolled trofie pasta with watercress pesto
Three cracking seafood recipes from the godfather of fish cookery
68 MARY BERRY The queen of baking shares
48 THE RESIDENCY: ZOE ADJONYOH Bursting with colour, these Kenyan-inspired dishes are perfect for a hungry crowd
56 TASTES LIKE HOME Canadian butter tarts 60 WHEN THE SUN IS BLAZING Pack a superior picnic with this made-to-go menu
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT 8 10 12 14
INBOX What’s on your mind this month? FOR STARTERS Events, trends and news WISH LIST Our pick of what to buy now A SLICE OF MY LIFE Jack Stein on travel and his love of global cuisines
16 FOOD FOR THOUGHT Do you shun convenience food?
19 WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT... Kay PlunkettHogge is in a food-craving pickle
RECIPES THAT WORK Every
recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, using state-of-the-art Fisher & Paykel ovens and hobs, so you can be confident they work every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ingredients and/or what to substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare meat for testing, supplied by The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk).
✪ This symbol next to an ingredient means there are more ideas for using it on our Loose Ends page.
HONEST COOKING TIMES
30 FOOD HERO Foraging for an ingredient you’ve probably never tried…
67 READY FOR A TOP DAY OUT? Come and say hello to delicious. at a food festival
73 DRINKS Top drops and cooling red wines 110 TEST REPORT On trial: a Greek cooking class, new books and a portable barbie
116 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Favourite UK seaside stays, from Scotland to the Isle of Wight
122 BITE-SIZE BREAK Discover the top food and drink scene in Belgium’s medieval Ghent
130 RANT Airports: the dreaded holiday hurdle
OTHER GOOD THINGS 58 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Save up to 38% and get a copy of Jack Stein’s World on a Plate
98 LOOSE ENDS Use up this month’s leftovers 74 JUST FOR YOU Win a classic Pashley bike 74 COOK THE COVER Win a set of Anolon pans 115 READER EVENT Join Gill Meller for a day of foraging and feasting at River Cottage HQ
124 COMING NEXT MONTH 128 FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD
22 PAGES with no fads or false health claims, just nutritious recipes and informed know-how 76 MIDWEEK COOKING Satisfying main-meal salads with some serious oomph
80 BUDGET RECIPE Mexican spiced rice 81 THE 5:2 RECIPE Simple grilled mackerel 82 THE BATCH-COOK RECIPE Roasted summer veg 84 SOUP OF THE MONTH Make-ahead gazpacho 85 FRIDAY NIGHT MEAL Hot dogs with sauerkraut 86 TAKE A PACK OF CHERRY TOMATOES... Four speedy recipes to boost your weeknight repertoire
88 THE SANE VIEW Beauty foods: fact or fiction? 91 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Meat-free miso burgers 92 V IS FOR VEGETARIAN Vibrant veg recipes from Swedish blogger Nina Olsson
Unlike many magazines, our timings include prep such as chopping. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. Indicates a vegetarian recipe. Indicates a vegan recipe. Indicates a gluten-free recipe. Whenever you see
KNOW- this symbol, you’ll HOW
find useful extra information about the recipe.
This symbol means you’ll find an option to make part or all of the recipe in advance. MAKE AHEAD
Indicates you can freeze all or most of the recipe. Unless stated, freeze the finished dish for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Recipes are analysed for nutritional content by an expert nutritionist. They’re calculated with precision but may vary, depending on the ingredients used. Calculations include only listed ingredients.
PRICES are correct at time of going to press.
129 RECIPE INDEX deliciousmagazine.co.uk 7
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THIS MONTH’S STAR PRIZE* This month’s prize is a six-bottle case of Pommery Brut Royal NV from Champagne Pommery. Madame Pommery, who launched the first commercial brut champagne in 1874, described it as fresh, elegant and vivacious. Today, Chef du Cave Clément Pierlot ensures that the champagnes stay true to her philosophy. Available from Ocado. champagnepommery. com/en, RRP £41.99 for 75cl
Great recipes need great ingredients. For your chance to win £50 Sainsbury’s vouchers, solve the cryptic clue on the magazine spine, then email your answer, with your name, full UK address and phone number, to info@ deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Competition entry closes 31 August 2018. Vouchers can be used in stores only (see p129 for Ts&Cs). June’s cryptic clue solution: peaches and cream 8 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
FROM OUR STAR EMAIL
subject: What being healthy really means from: Rebecca Mee
I’ve never felt compelled to respond to an article in a magazine until I read Anthony Warner’s criticism of dieting [June, p130]. As the parent of a 16-year-old daughter who has struggled with anorexia for the past two years, has only recently been I O H JO E! E W KN discharged from N EVER SU CH D HA YO U CK a five-month A SIX PA admission to an eating disorder unit and is still struggling with her recovery, reading Anthony’s article had a huge emotional impact. Due to the UK’s rising obesity problem, my daughter has been bombarded with ‘healthy eating’ government initiatives since she started school at the age of four and gradually developed an irrational fear of ‘bad’ foods, which is constantly reinforced with ‘you are what you eat’ type programmes. In addressing obesity, the experts have inadvertently created mental and physical health issues of the opposite extreme. I can’t even find the words to express my disgust at celebrity and media-endorsed faddy diets along with the ideal body image that they portray through digitally altered images, setting an unrealistic and unnatural standard for the
SUBSCRIBERS ABROAD: WE HEAR YOU! Although the majority of our overseas subscribers receive their issues on time, we’ve had a few emails from people who’ve had problems with late delivery. What we’ve done: to combat theft, from the September issue all our subscriber copies (UK and abroad) will be wrapped in opaque recyclable packaging and our suppliers guarantee they leave the UK on time. We are however at the mercy of overseas postal systems. Apologies to those who’ve had problems, but we promise your delicious. is worth the wait.
impressionable and self-conscious public to aspire to and fail to meet. I have seen my intelligent, beautiful, funny daughter reduced to a shell of herself, living in fear of food and of the judgements of others based on her appearance. It’s impossible to summarise the devastating effects of anorexia, both on the sufferer and on their family. As a primary school teacher, I’m careful in my approach to healthy eating education, ensuring the message FIT! SO ’S HE T HAS T HE DIE F F... I impart is that the PA ID O key to healthy eating is enjoying everything in balanced quantities. Eating fruit and vegetables in excess and to the exclusion of other food groups, including sugar and fat, and denying ourselves the enjoyment of the foods we like is damaging to our physical and mental health. I was over the moon to read Anthony’s take on what being healthy means and felt it was the first time I had ever read something so true to my own view of life, food and happiness, especially in a food magazine. I refuse to buy any recipe magazines or books in January when the industry is at its dieting worst. I can only hope that one day my daughter will share this view and see herself as the beautiful person she is in every way, inside and out.
What YOU’VE been making this month...
Tomato, thyme & ricotta tart
Italian cherry & almond tart
*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P129
Tell us what you think of delicious. (good and bad) or send your tips, pictures and queries to:
have your say.
subject: Cow-funding from : Simon Rostron
DEBORA ROBERTSON’S ARGUMENTS AGAINST AL FRESCO EATING [JULY, P130] DIVIDED OPINION AMONG delicious. READERS:
The notion of ‘crowdfunding a cow’ is attractive (For Starters, July issue, p10) but it’s all bullocks. The fact the entire animal is bought does not, to my mind, ‘minimise’ food wastage. Once the punter has received his or her box, there’s no way of discovering how much content is wasted. And what happens to the horns, hooves and skin? delicious. replies: We quizzed the Buy a Cow team before we printed this story. The hide and bones are repurposed. Customers can request offal in their box, and soon consumers can purchase this direct from buyacow.uk. Unsold offal is made into pâté and other products. Selling the cow before it’s butchered aims to minimise waste at the producer and retailer’s end, but you make a good point that we can’t know how much is wasted by the customers.
Picnic enthusiast from : Lynsey Telford I could not have disagreed more with Debora. One of my fondest childhood memories is of picnicking with my family on our holidays. Finding the right spot to set up, the smell of the plastic plates and cups, the mini pork pies and fondant fancies. While there were no Thermos flasks of ice and sorbet involved, to my 10-year-old self they were banquets. My passion for outdoor eating is now being passed on to my three-year-old daughter and 10-month-old son. The glorious weather has meant we’ve been out and
about with our trusty picnic blanket and hamper each weekend, exploring our local area and eating our body weight in cocktail sausages. We’ve even been known to picnic in the living room or car when the weather hasn’t been in our favour. I can’t think of anything greater than spending time picnicking with my family.
…And the picnic hater Kenneth Hannah
Loved the article. My wife says I should leave her and marry Debora as we have the same views on eating outside and the security of the dining room. As for sunroofs: no point in the winter, and in summer they create a greenhouse effect, even when they’re open.
F I N D T H E U K ’ S BE ST C O OK E RY S C HO OL S
INDEPENDENT COOKERY SCHOOLS ASSOCIATION Looking for a cookery course? Visit the ICSA website to find fully accredited cookery schools nationwide, so you can be confident you’re getting a quality course that’s value for money. We check every detail, from insurance and equipment to teaching and course content, to give you the peace of mind that you’re getting the best.
Independentcookeryschools.co.uk ICSA is the only independent, non-profit regulatory body for cookery schools in the UK – to find out more, visit independentcookeryschools.co.uk
FOR STARTERS N E WS, N I B B L E S O F K N OW L E D G E A N D G O O D T H I N G S TO D O R I G H T N OW
HAVE YOU HEARD OF POLLADA?
Chef Alexis Soyer died on 5 August but lives on in history for improving food for British soldiers in Crimea, running soup kitchens during the Irish famine and cooking for 2,000 people to mark Queen Victoria’s coronation.
It’s Peruvian for ‘chicken party’ and is a popular way of raising funds in times of need in Peru. Friends, family and neighbours buy tickets to the pollada, hosted by someone in the community who needs money, and specially marinated chicken is served at a party in exchange – which might feature beer and music, too. This summer, rainforest charity Cool Earth is calling on you to throw your own pollada and ask your friends to pledge a few pounds to help fund its work minimising deforestation in Peru, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Papua New Guinea. For every £60 donation, the charity estimates an acre of rainforest is saved. l Visit coolearth.org/pollada to register and order your free chicken party pack, including bunting, spice mix, invitations and Gift Aid forms
Artist Andy Warhol, who found fame with prints of Campbell’s soup cans, was born on 6 August. His abstract 1959 cookbook Wild Raspberries includes a recipe for omelette Greta Garbo.
What’s your favourite sandwich filling? If you want a quick last-minute al fresco bite, the sandwich is your best friend – after your picnic blanket, of course. Here are the nation’s top 10 favourite sarnie fillings (there’s a lot of cheese going on…)
1 Cheese 2 Ham & cheese 3 Ham salad 4 Sausage 5 Cheese & onion 6 Egg mayonnaise 7 Tuna mayo 8 Chicken salad 9 Chicken mayo 10 Cheese & pickle
tycoon Martha Stewart was born on 3 August. “Baking cookies is equal to Queen Victoria running an empire,” she once said. “There’s no difference in how seriously you take the job.”
After a 14-year break, Iceland resumed whaling on 17 August – for ‘scientific purposes’ (to monitor their feeding habits). Today, minke whale can be eaten in restaurants there.
WHO KNEW…? LISTEN TO THE delicious. PODCASTÉ
This month, Gilly meets Moroccan blogger turned food writer Nargisse Benkabbou, and the Syrian refugees who re-create the flavours of home for their social enterprise, Syrian Kitchen. We’re off to the Italian biodynamic vineyard that only employs women to make its wine, and we enjoy a well seasoned Slice of My Life with Gennaro Contaldo. Every week, the delicious. podcast brings you the best stories from the world of food – search for it on iTunes or wherever you find your podcasts.
During World War II, academics proposed harvesting plankton from Scottish sea lochs in case food supplies were cut off, claiming the waters were ‘soup-like’ in richness and that some plankton were ‘tasty’.
in the know.
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
TR ENDWAT CH
AUG & SEPT
London restaurateur and man-abouttown James Ramsden hits the heights Everyone knows that food enjoyed outside tastes at least 15 per cent more delicious. Throw a decent view into the mix and, well, there aren’t many better places to be. No wonder rooftops are increasingly popular places to eat. Here are some goodies. The Culpeper (theculpeper.com) in Spitalfields pays homage to the botanist after whom the pub is named, Nicholas Culpeper, with its rooftop herb garden and menu of forward-thinking, well-sourced pub food. Not far away is The Boundary Project in Shoreditch (boundary.london). You can eat well enough on its sprawling roof terrace, though it’s arguably better as a post-prandial pit-stop for excellent digestifs. There’s even a cigar list. Very good
The Boundary Project rooftop
eating can be had at the Marksman Public House (marksmanpublic house.com) in Hoxton. Best go all-in on a feasting menu over a long lunch. From there you might jump on an Overground train to Peckham and enjoy a sundowner or two at the beguilingly industrial Frank’s Café (boldtendencies.com/frankscafe). Negronis come correct, the food is solid and the view over London is spectacular. At the other end of the fancy spectrum, Coq d’Argent (coqdargent.co.uk) is a City institution that’s nothing if not blingy. And then there’s Bird of Smithfield (birdofsmithfield. com) with its views over the iconic market and well-executed modern European menu. There’s basically no need to go indoors this summer. Weather depending, of course.
DID YOU KNOW...?
WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, PHOEBE STONE, SUSAN LOW. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, REX /SHUTTERSTOCK. SOURCES: PLANTLIFE.ORG.UK, SWNS DIGITAL
Juniper, one of the UK’s three native conifers, faces extinction across much of the country within 50 years, thanks to overgrazing and fungal disease. It has disappeared from nine counties and is in serious decline in the others, which is bad news for the booming gin industry. The number of UK distilleries rose from 128 in 2012 to 273 in 2017, but many are using imported juniper.
Win a farm-to-table feast in Cornwall
Last autumn we featured recipes from the 1,000 Mouths festival, a series of feasts held at Nancarrow Farm in Cornwall to raise funds for the charity Action Against Hunger. This year we’re offering one reader and guest the chance to experience a Nancarrow Farm Feast for themselves. Before the meal begins, the organic farm and gardens are thrown open for diners to explore while folk music, wood smoke and the aromas of something good cooking in the fire pit fill the courtyard air. Our winner and guest will enjoy a three-course autumnal banquet in the company of other local food lovers on Friday 5 October. You’ll also enjoy a night’s stay on the farm and a communal breakfast the next day. To enter, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions; for more information about events at Nancarrow Farm, visit nancarrowfarm.co.uk. For Ts&Cs see p129
10-12 AUG Chilli Fiesta, West Sussex The UK’s biggest chilli festival promises more than 140 stalls of fiery food, drinks and gifts, plus cider and cocktail bars, a vintage funfair, Latin music and dance classes, chef demos and fireworks. Adult tickets from £14.40; westdean.org.uk 23-27 AUG Makemore Festival, London E3 This new festival in Victoria Park is all about creativity. The demo lineup includes Felicity Cloake on breadmaking and Rachel Roddy on Italian food, plus smoking, pickling and beekeeping workshops. One-day tickets from £28; makemore.art 31 AUG TO 2 SEP The Nantwich Food Festival, Cheshire Expect marquees stuffed to bursting with local produce and artisan foods from across the UK. Don’t miss live regional judging for the 2018 delicious. Produce Awards in Fisher & Paykel’s demo kitchen. Free; nantwichfoodfestival.co.uk 7-9 SEP Pub in the Park, Knutsford Tom Kerridge’s travelling festival heads north, with Angela Hartnett, Candice Brown and the man himself. Paul Ainsworth’s Cornish restaurants will be among the pop-ups, plus there will be live music. Tickets £25 for afternoon, £40 for evening; pubintheparkuk.com deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11
These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money (this month with an emphasis on picnics) do they get the delicious. seal of approval. KAREN BARNES, EDITOR
AL FRESCO TIMESAVER Let’s be realistic – there isn’t always time to cook up dishes like those in the picnic feature on p60. When a quality ‘cheat’ is called for, Higgidy’s new flavourpacked pastry-free pies (aka frittatas!) are worth packing in the hamper. We liked the feta and sweet-spicy peppers and the slow-cooked leek with Abergavenny goat’s cheese. £4 each for 300g, Waitrose and Ocado
RETRO STYLE Even if you don’t have anywhere more fancy to go than your garden, this smart wicker basket is beautiful enough to make you want to pack a picnic pronto. It comes with a complete set of tableware for two (ceramic plates, proper glasses and cutlery) and is roomy enough for the non-chill food treats, too. Top value at £65, available from National Trust shops and online at nationaltrust.org.uk
A picnic needs a good rug as well as a pillow to cushion the head or indeed the posterior. Head to the Folksglove website (folksglove.com) for stylish essentials. Although on the pricier side at £95 for a rug and £40 for a cushion, they’re built to last (backed with waterproof cotton) with sturdy leather handles.
HOT ON THE SHELVES: THE SAVOURY AND THE SWEET If you haven’t heard of ‘nduja, it’s a spicy spreadable sausage from Calabria in Italy. Here its powerful punch is married with gentler tomato pesto. It’s good with pasta as you’d expect, or stir into roasting veg for the last five minutes for an easy flavour boost. From £2.40, Waitrose and Tesco 12 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
OLIVES TO GO Unlike other olive brands, Olly’s Olives aren’t pasteurised, which keeps them juicy and crunchy. The pocket-size pouches don’t contain any messy oil, making them perfect for picnics, and the marinades (three to choose from) are vibrant. £1.75 for 50g, Ocado, independent delis and ollysolives.com
SUMMER’S EASIEST PUD? Here’s the recipe: quality yogurt dolloped with a spoonful of sour cherry compote from Cheshire-based Greek food specialist Greka. Made from cherries grown in the fertile Tripolis region of the Peloponnese, its balance of sweet and sour is crave-inducing. £5.50 for 314g, grekafoods.com
in the know.
This month I’m drinking… Pimm’s No6 Vodka Cup is bright, fresh and, topped up with ginger ale or tonic with apple slices and a mint sprig, makes an excellent set-the-tone drink for a summer’s day. It was first launched in 1964 but was later discontinued. Now it’s back by popular demand – one taste and you’ll see why. £20 for 70cl from Majestic.
2018’s summer spritz Cocci Rosa vermouth has red wine as its base, which gives it a colour almost as vivid as Campari but with a sweeter, more herbal, less bitter bite. Drink with soda or tonic on the rocks, with a wedge of grapefruit. £18 for 50cl from Waitrose (or £22.84 from masterofmalt.com
BEST BUY UNDER… YES, £5! Extra storage never goes amiss, and these bamboo-lidded tins are a great discovery. From £2 for the small, short tin up to £4 for the large one – a proper bargain. From Flying Tiger stores across the UK; visit uk.flyingtiger. com to find a store near you.
SPICE IT UP Smoked paprika is a magic ingredient, as far as I’m concerned – and even better when it comes in a tin as pretty as this. Buy top quality dulce (sweet), picante (hot) or agridulce (bitter sweet, ie medium hot). Save 15 per cent on your first order by adding the code ‘delicious15’ at the checkout. £3.95 for 70g (free P&P), delcampo.co.uk
Keep it clean
COOL ALLROUNDER At the time of writing I can safely say summers don’t come hotter than this in the UK. Which calls for good kit to keep wine cool. The Caddyo is clever: freeze the gel cylinder for at least four hours, slip in a bottle of wine, then zip the whole thing inside the Neoprene jacket. We tested it on the hottest day – the wine chilled down in 30 minutes and stayed that way for at least six hours. It comes with corkscrew and carrying strap. And it’s big enough to hold a fat fizz bottle, too. £30, steamer.co.uk
Holiday been and gone? Or not had one yet? Either way, this apron is a happy reminder of sun, sea and surf. It’s made from sturdy 100 per cent cotton (unbleached) and is machinewashable, with adjustable neck strap and ties long enough to wrap round and tie at the front like chefs do (girth permitting!). £22, victoria eggs.com
SEAFOOD LOVER, FROM TOP Jack loves
a picnic on a quiet beach; travelling the world influenced his cooking; Massimo Bottura is an inspiration, as is dad Rick (not least for teaching him to slice bread); he likes to play with flavour
A SLICE OF MY LIFE
JACK STEIN The bearded chef talks about his love of global food, learning to cut bread and eating on the beach – a side-effect of growing up in Cornwall
AL FRESCO EATING My idea of a good summer picnic would be on a quiet beach in Cornwall or Western Australia, where my partner is from. Her family is Italian, so it would be sliced tomatoes with a sprinkle of salt and amazing sausage made by her dad, or maybe some ceviche snapper, cured with lime juice.
THE WORLD OF FOOD I had a big advantage when I became a chef because I already knew what food should taste like. Mum and Dad cooked at home, we went out to eat and we travelled a lot. We saw food cultures around the world and over the years I’ve cherry-picked from different cuisines – I’d describe my new book as a zombie hybrid!
BIG UP TO… I like iconoclastic, funky chefs such as Massimo Bottura and René Redzepi. They use what they do for good – these days you need to recognise the fact your restaurant is in a community and you need to look after it. You can only produce avant-garde menus for so long before you ask, “What about people who actually need food?”
My dad taught me how to cut bread. I was revising for my GCSEs and he’d been out to a party. He came back and said “Son” – and he never calls me son – “Son, I want to show you how to cut bread.” It was all about the sawing action; then he made some sandwiches and that was it. But once I was a chef he taught me a lot: you have to be ready to listen and know when you’ve got it right – and wrong.
BRAIN FOOD I studied psychology and I’m interested in how taste works with how we feel. Food is all about manipulating flavours, so as a chef you can add a bit of Marmite (as I do) to trigger the savoury, the umami. In France it might be lemon juice; in Australia, finger limes – all around the world people manipulate flavour centres differently. It’s enjoyable and connects directly to the reward centres in the brain. I’ll be honest, though, I should have paid more attention when I was studying… I used to watch a lot of daytime TV. Jack Stein is chef-director of the Rick Stein Group. His book, World on a Plate (Absolute Press £26), is out now. Turn to p35 for three summery seafood recipes by Jack’s dad Rick 14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PHOTOGRAPHS: PAUL WINCH-FURNESS, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
LEARNING FROM THE MASTER
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IN PRAISE OF
Convenience food In this hymn to cupboard love, food writer Debora Robertson expresses her passion for those storecupboard ingredients that allow us to get dinner on the table without losing half a day – and possibly our minds to ourselves? And then there are those who physically can’t manage all the peeling and chopping. I consider my own ferociously independent parents – my dad’s almost blind now and my mother has arthritis in her hands. Being
“Processed food isn’t necessarily synonymous with junk food” able to reach for pre-chopped vegetables or pre-grated cheese is the difference between them being able to cook for themselves and not. As I sometimes do when it’s either that or swearing at the cat, I tweeted my frustration about the dinnertime dictators and listed
some of my favourite storecupboard ingredients. I included stock cubes; frozen vegetables (especially spinach, peas and broad beans – particularly ones with the skins slipped off to reveal the emerald beauties beneath, because life is genuinely too short to skin a broad bean); Merchant Gourmet pouches of prepared rices and grains; tinned pulses, tomatoes and fish; jars of tomato passata, roasted peppers and artichokes; and of course frozen all-butter puff pastry because… seriously. Once I started listing my sanitysaving shortcuts it was hard to stop, but as a food writer this felt like dangerous territory, as though at any moment I might be expelled from the gang for confessing to not
Claire Thomson’s shortcut shortlist Claire is a chef, food writer and mother to three small children. She says, “I cook from scratch every day and I have a few favourite ingredients that help facilitate my cooking at home – my storecupboard is never without these five.” l KECAP
MANIS The Indonesian thick, sweet soy sauce makes a blinding marinade for grilled chicken or aubergines.
I use both aleppo and urfa chilli flakes at home, often instead of black pepper, for a sweet, hot or smoky seasoning. l MISO PASTE To
mix with butter and chipotle paste
as a marinade, or to use to make the quickest ever cup of soup. l CRISPY FRIED ONIONS These add a dangerously addictive crunch to all kinds of things: pilau, pilaf, dhal… The perfect finishing touch. l GHERKINS Always gherkins! Straight from the fridge with a lump of cheese. I’m quite fond of pickled walnuts too. Claire Thomson’s latest book is The Art of the Larder (Quadrille £25)
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
hen the Office for National Statistics added ready-made mashed potato to its official ‘basket of goods’ used to gauge consumer price inflation earlier this year, you could have drowned in the avalanche of smuggery that followed. Were people too lazy, too spoiled, too busy watching telly, or too afraid to ruin their manicures to mash now? The hell-in-a-handcart harpies were in their eye-rolling element. Each head-tilting sigh of “how lazy…” from those who weave their own water made me increasingly cross. Such sanctimony has nothing to do with getting dinner on the table and everything to do with marking the tutters out as a superior tribe to those of us who might reach for a stock cube or some frozen veg when we’re in a rush. And let’s face it, lots of us are in a rush. Or tired, or stressed out, and trying to fit a meal in between dashing back from work, supervising homework, putting a wash on and, you know, maybe as a special treat, having five minutes
food for thought.
Oisín Rodgers’ timesaver favourites Oisín is general manager of Mayfair’s Guinea Grill and London’s favourite publican. Tweeting as @McMoop, with the hashtag #fridgebuffet, he’s gained a following for the late-night snacks he makes when he gets home from work. These quick and quirky combinations might include ‘radishes, thyme salt, pickled ginger, anchovies,’ or ‘crayfish, salad cream, kipper in a lettuce spliff’ or ‘cheese, pickled pepper, mayo, crusty bread, balsamic kiwi’.
having a vat of stock constantly simmering on the stove, or my own biodynamic herbs drying in the sun. Then something wonderful happened. I received hundreds of replies from chefs, fellow food writers and non-professionals too. These replies easily drowned out the joyless chunterings of the gastropuritans. Positive tweets listed ingredients I already loved, such as Belazu rose harissa, Stokes mayonnaise and bags of frozen chopped chillies, to new discoveries such as Waitrose’s frozen soffrito, Ocado’s rich pickings from French frozen food company Picard (including peeled pearl onions, chopped tomatoes and artichoke hearts), The Spice Tailor dhals, cubed butternut squash (I suspect A&E departments across the land rejoice at this one) and Lidl’s cartons of béchamel. The list was a compelling snapshot of how we live and eat now, a cheerful hymn to simply doing your best and keeping going. It’s an indication of the shallow nature of our newly rediscovered food culture – and a lack of culinary
over a stick of mature cheddar, wrap in a slice of crumbed ham and you’ll never look back. l CHARCUTERIE
FOR SLICING Brilliant with pickles. I love coppa especially, and I always keep lots in the fridge. Also nuts – sticky walnuts cry out for charcuterie. l CRUNCHY
FLATBREADS OR CRACKERS Jacob’s or Ritz (both widely available), although any crispbread works fine as a vehicle – they carry all things and lend crunch to quick bites.
confidence – that some cooks see any kind of shortcut as cheating. When I’m in France in the summer, you virtually have to push your way through the epicurean masses to the tins of cassoulet and confit of duck in the local supermarket. Many Italians are passionate about instant polenta; the Spanish and Portuguese are positively fetishistic about tinned fish and seafood. The truth is, food made with these shortcuts can be good and good for you. Convenience is not a dirty word. Processed food is not necessarily synonymous with junk food. There is a subtle – and sometimes not so subtle – demonisation of processed food, but lots of foods go through some degree of processing before they make it into our kitchens. Much of the puritanical commentary is exclusionist, elitist and lacking in empathy and compassion. And if nothing else, life is far too short – and potentially far too much fun – for anyone to start getting snooty about readymashed potato.
TINNED ANCHOVIES are so versatile they’re almost a condiment. I’ll often have them on bread on their own with the oil from the tin. They’re even more delicious with crunchy lettuce and some pickled ginger. l BLUE CHEESE (preferably roquefort) has an oozy, sticky texture like nothing else. Try it with honey or slices of peach. l SALAD CREAM is my go-to squeezy condiment, just pipping HP brown sauce. Squeeze some l
Diana Henry’s shortcut shortlist The award-winning food writer says, “People assume food writers never take shortcuts but I think, on a day-to-day basis, that isn’t realistic. There are frozen peas and fish fingers in my freezer, and jars and tins of beans in my cupboards. I don’t berate myself for using them; that isn’t what cooking is about. I draw the line at some things – I don’t see the point in ready-grated cheddar – but I think it’s better to make a meal with a bit of help than not to make one at all.”
CHIPOTLE PASTE Because I don’t always want to toast, then soak dried chipotle chillies. The paste is great for making mayo into a spicy dip, for adding to dressings and for using as a marinade.
CHICKEN STOCK Knorr Touch of Taste concentrated liquid chicken stock (widely available) is the best. Wonderful for topping up homemade and slightly weak stock or to make a quick soup.
SUPERMARKETBRAND ANCHOVIES What possibilities: chopped into anchovy mayo, salsa verde, anchovy butter for
steak, tapenade and anchoïade. Top quality!
ORTIZ ANCHOVIES (from souschef.com, brindisa.com, amazon) are pure luxury with a few sliced tomatoes. CHORIZO Provides instant spice and meatiness to fried eggs and potatoes or a baked sweet potato.
BEANS IN JARS Navarrico judión butter beans (from brindisa. com, Waitrose and Ocado) aren’t cheap, but they’re luscious with braised sausages. Diana Henry’s latest book is How to Eat a Peach: menus, stories and places (Mitchell Beazley £25).
food for thought.
WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT... Finding herself in a food-craving pickle, Kay Plunkett-Hogge heads out of her comfort zone and discovers a whole new culinary world
POLISH DELIS I had a food craving a couple of days ago. For a reuben sandwich. It was one of those honest-to-god, itch-that-must-be-scratched, if I don’t eat this in the next hour I’m going to rip somebody’s head off kind of cravings. You know: the way some people feel about chocolate. Or heroin. I was jonesing for a decent Jewish deli. I live in southwest London where decent Jewish delis are hard to come by. Admittedly, I moved to the neighbourhood to be close to the Thai supermarket, but still… I was in the middle of cursing myself for not having planned ahead when it hit me: Jewish-American deli food, as typified by Canter’s Deli in Los Angeles and New York’s lamented Reuben’s (where the aforementioned sandwich was allegedly invented), has its roots in eastern Europe. So I went to the Polish supermarket. Not kosher, I know – my great-grandmother Rebecca Cohen would’ve been furious. But close enough. Reuben ingredients
MY AUGUST FOOD HIGHLIGHT
and a jar of excellent pickles acquired, craving satisfied, I was left with one question: why had I never been in the Polish deli before? From pickles of every description to cheese to smoked and cured meats to glorious rye breads, it’s a veritable treasure trove of ingredients. And the staff were so generous with their time and knowledge, not to mention letting me try things before I bought them. Clearly even food writers can get set in their ways, and I rather appreciate the irony that it took a craving for something familiar to jolt me out of my comfort zone.
It has to be the tomatoes… Proper, ripe, fragrant, juicy tomatoes that actually taste of… tomato. Which means I will be making the simplest and best tomato salad I know, picked up at a tapas bar called El Fogón de San Andrés in Seville: take 6 excessively ripe, large tomatoes, slice them thickly, then cut the slices in half. Toss with 6 peeled and roughly sliced garlic cloves, a good pinch of salt and
3 tablespoons of the best extra-virgin olive oil you’ve got. Garnish with freshly chopped flatleaf parsley and you’re good to go – but whatever you do don’t make it in winter when the tomatoes taste of absolutely nothing.
PRODUCT OF THE MONTH PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
WASTE NOT, WANT NOT…
I’d never had much use for aubergine skins until my friend Pepe, who runs my local Italian deli, told me to pickle them: blanch the skins in boiling water for 1 minute, refresh in cold water, dry, then quick-pickle in 2-3 tablespoons red wine vinegar with a chopped garlic clove, 1 tbsp freshly chopped flatleaf parsley, and salt and pepper.
Since we’ve just mentioned pickles, allow me to sing the praises of Tracklements Charcuteriments, which I’ve been using to give punch to sandwiches and charcuterie boards over the past month. If the hot garlic pickle one (£3.95/100g) doesn’t force you to buy a pork pie, I don’t know what will. tracklements.co.uk
ALWAYS A WINNER
Who can resist the jingly, summery sound of an ice cream van? These recipes celebrate our love for the frozen stuff. We have a super-speedy no-churn ice cream sandwich, a salted caramel Italian-style gelato and a showstopper chocolate bombeâ€Ś Form an orderly queue, please
SMASH AND GRAB
Mint chocolate ice cream parfait bombes, p22
BEST THING SINCE SLICED BREAD
Brown butter caramel and rye bread gelato, p22
SERVES 10 (MAKES ABOUT 1.5 LITRES). HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND FREEZING
Once frozen the ice cream MAKE will keep in the freezer for AHEAD up to 2 weeks. The caramel will seize (become FOOD TEAM’S hard) and may split when the TIPS cream is added to the molten sugar (step 3), but be patient and stir carefully over a very low heat and it will come together in a smooth sauce. If you don’t have an ice cream machine, freeze the thickened custard in a large airtight container for 1-2 hours, then whisk briefly with an electric hand mixer to help prevent ice crystals forming and to make the mixture light and aerated. Repeat the process once or twice, adding the caramel and toasted crumbs with the last mix. • 100g stale rye bread (we used The Village Bakery Organic Rossisky Rye Bread) • 600ml whole milk • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste • 75g golden caster sugar • 3 tbsp cornflour • 1 large free-range egg yolk • 300ml double cream FOR THE CARAMEL
• 80g salted butter • 200g golden caster sugar • 200ml double cream • 1 tsp sea salt flakes 1 Tear the bread into small pieces and whizz to crumbs in a food processor. Transfer to a clean, dry heavy-based frying pan and toast for 3-5 minutes, stirring, until golden. Set aside in a bowl and wipe the cooled pan clean with kitchen paper. 2 For the caramel, melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat. When melted, turn up the heat and cook until the butter starts to brown and smells nutty. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. 3 Put the 200g golden caster sugar in the cleaned frying pan and melt over a medium heat. Increase the heat so the sugar begins to bubble and turn amber, swirling the pan occasionally to get an even colour. Once the sugar has turned amber, remove from the heat, add the cream and stir constantly 22 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
(see tips). Return to a low heat and stir until smooth. Stir in the browned butter and salt, then leave to cool. 4 In a large heatproof mixing bowl, whisk 100ml of the milk with the vanilla paste, sugar, cornflour and egg yolk until smooth. 5 Gently heat the 300ml cream and the rest of the milk in a large heavy-based pan until just beginning to steam. Slowly add it to the milk and vanilla mixture, whisking all the time. Return the mixture to the pan and bring to the boil, whisking until thickened. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. 6 Pour into an ice cream machine (see tips) and churn until almost set. Add the toasted crumbs and mix until well combined. Pour in two-thirds of the caramel sauce as it churns, then transfer to an airtight container or large loaf tin and freeze for 6 hours or overnight, until set. Serve with the remaining caramel sauce. PER 50G SCOOP 155kcals, 11.2g fat (7.5g saturated), 1.4g protein, 12.1g carbs (9.6g sugars), 0.3g salt, 0.2g fibre For more ways to use leftover rye bread, see Loose Ends
Mint chocolate ice cream parfait bombes MAKES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS 7-8 HOURS FREEZING
Make the parfaits to the end of MAKE step 4 up to 2 weeks ahead. Finish AHEAD the recipe to serve. Once you’ve covered them with chocolate, eat within a day to prevent the surface of the chocolate from blooming (turning white). We used Spice Drops mint extract, FOOD TEAM’S available from amazon.co.uk or TIP Ocado. If you can’t find it, use any good quality mint extract. • 600ml double cream • 25g pack fresh mint, leaves picked and roughly chopped • 4 medium free-range eggs, separated • 200g caster sugar • 1 tbsp cornflour • Mint extract to taste (see tip) • 150ml chocolate sauce (we used Joe & Seph’s Chocolate Caramel Sauce) • 300g dark chocolate, melted YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 10 dariole moulds, greased and bases lined with non-stick baking paper discs
1 Put the cream and chopped mint in a heavy-based saucepan and heat gently until just boiling. Transfer to a blender, then whizz until smooth and bright green. Put a sieve over the pan and strain the mixture back into the pan (discard the solids in the sieve). Return to a low heat and keep warm. 2 Put the egg yolks in a large heatproof mixing bowl, then whisk in 50g caster sugar and the cornflour. Pour the warm cream slowly over the yolk mixture, whisking constantly, then strain through a sieve back into the cleaned pan. Return to the heat and stir until thickened, then strain once more into a clean heatproof bowl. Leave the custard to cool with a sheet of cling film touching the surface to prevent a skin forming, then chill. 3 Once the custard has chilled, taste and add 5-10 drops of mint extract (see tips). In a large clean bowl, using an electric hand mixer, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form when the beaters are removed. Whisk in the remaining 150g sugar a tablespoon at a time until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Stir a large spoonful of the whisked egg white into the custard mixture to loosen it then, using a large metal spoon, quickly fold in the rest using a figure-ofeight motion. Drizzle about 100ml of the chocolate sauce over the mixture and fold in quickly for a marbled effect. 4 Divide half the ice cream mixture equally among the moulds, dot another 1 tsp chocolate sauce in the middle of each, then fill with the remaining mixture. Cover each mould with a few layers of cling film and freeze for 6 hours or until solid. 5 Once frozen solid, remove the dariole moulds from the freezer, boil the kettle and pour some of the water into a small heatproof bowl. Dip the base of each mould in the hot water for 2-3 seconds, then turn over and put on a plate. Tap firmly on the bottom to release the bombe. Run a dinner knife around the edge of the parfait if you’re having difficulty turning them out. Working quickly, put all the bombes on a wire rack set over a sheet of baking paper. 6 Carefully pour the melted chocolate over the top of each bombe to completely coat in a thin layer, then return to the freezer for at least 1-2 hours until set, or until ready to serve (see Make Ahead). PER BOMBE 556kcals, 41.7g fat (25.1g saturated), 5.3g protein, 39.3g carbs (35g sugars), 0.1g salt, 1g fibre
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: DELICIOUS. FOOD TEAM. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE ENGLISH AND TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS AND VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
Brown butter caramel and rye bread gelato
COVER RECIPE No-churn blackcurrant ripple ice cream sandwiches MAKES 8-10 SANDWICHES. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 6 HOURS FREEZING
Start at least the day before you want MAKE to serve the ice cream. Keep it wrapped AHEAD in its tin for up to 2 weeks. When blackcurrants are in season, FOOD TEAM’S add a few to the jam mixture in TIP step 1 for a touch of extra fruitiness. • 5 tbsp good quality blackcurrant jam • Juice ½ lemon • 1 tbsp freshly chopped thyme leaves, plus a few extra to serve (optional) • 397g can Nestlé condensed milk • 600ml double cream • 2 tsp vanilla bean paste • 16-20 ice cream wafers • 30g toasted hazelnuts, chopped (optional) YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 900g (2lb) loaf tin, lined with non-stick baking paper overhanging 2 sides 1 In a small bowl mix the jam with the lemon juice and thyme, then set aside (see tip). 2 Put the condensed milk, cream and vanilla in a large bowl and whisk using an electric hand mixer until thick, stiff and voluminous (about 8-10 minutes). Spoon half into the loaf tin, then dollop the jam on top and use a wooden spoon handle to ripple the jam through. Top with the remaining mixture and swirl the top half. Cover with cling film and freeze for at least 6 hours (preferably overnight) until firm. 3 To serve, take out of the freezer for a few minutes to soften slightly, lift out of the tin using the baking paper, then slice with a knife warmed in a jug of hot water and put between wafers to make ice cream sandwiches. Sprinkle with extra thyme leaves and chopped hazelnuts (if using). PER SERVING (FOR 10) 495kcals, 37.6g fat (22.2g saturated), 5.3g protein, 33.4g carbs (27.3g sugars), 0.2g salt, 0.7g fibre
NEXT MONTH Three great takes on chicken curry
ROAST OF THE MONTH
SPANISH-STYLE ROAST CHICKEN
When I was a boy, Mum would cook dinner for the family from Monday to Saturday. Sunday was her day off and the apron would then be handed to Dad. He’s from a small village in central Spain, so you could rely on his dinner being a Spanish dish such as paella or what he called mountain food – something like a huge bowl of lentils. Occasionally he’d do a roast chicken with a typical Spanish twist, and this recipe is my interpretation of that wonderful, fullof-flavour dish. I hope my children will also create their own version of this roast chicken eventually, and I’m looking forward to that day, sitting around the table and enjoying it together. That’s what family cooking is all about. RICHARD RODRIGUEZ
RICHARD’S STORY He was born
NEXT MONTH Spice-rubbed roast beef with late-summer veg
in Spain and is an enthusiastic self-taught cook who runs the food blog familyhomecook.co.uk. You may well recognise his face as he was a contestant in the 2017 series of MasterChef, cooking wild mushroom ravioli for John Torode and Gregg Wallace – and nearly making it through to the quarter-finals.
Paprika-roast chicken with potatoes and peppers SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN, PLUS RESTING
When slicing the potatoes (step 2), slice a bit from one TIP end of each potato and sit it flat on the chopping board. This will make it safer to slice thinly. If the veg needs a bit longer FOOD TEAM’S to crisp up, put the tray TIP back in the oven for 10-15 minutes while the chicken rests. RICHARD’S
• 1.6kg free-range chicken • 1 lemon, halved • Good quality olive oil • 2 tsp smoked paprika • 800g large floury potatoes, such as maris piper, unpeeled • 2 large onions, peeled • 3 red peppers • 200g chorizo • Chilli flakes (optional) • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, finely chopped 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Put the chicken in a large roasting tray and put both lemon halves in the cavity. Pour enough olive oil over the chicken to coat it nicely, then sprinkle with the paprika and some salt and pepper. Give the chicken a good rub all over to mix the oil, paprika and seasoning together. Roast on the middle shelf of the oven for 35 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, cut the potatoes into
0.5cm slices (see Richard’s tip) and cut the onions into quarters. Remove the core and seeds from the peppers, then slice into strips. Finally cut the chorizo into 2cm slices and put it and the vegetables in a large bowl. 3 Drizzle the veg and chorizo with a good glug of olive oil. Add plenty of salt and pepper and toss to coat. Add a pinch of chilli flakes, if using. 4 Once the chicken has had 35 minutes in the oven, carefully remove the roasting tray and baste the chicken with any juices that are gathering in the bottom of the tray. Tip the veg and chorizo around the chicken, give it all a good mix and put the tray back in the oven for about 45 minutes. Baste the chicken once or twice during cooking and don’t let the chorizo get too crisp. 5 Once the chicken is cooked through (when the thickest part of the thigh reads 70°C on a digital thermometer or the juices run clear when pierced with a skewer), transfer to a carving board to rest, covered with foil (see food team’s tip). 6 Sprinkle the parsley over the veg and chorizo. Carve the chicken and serve with a spoonful of veg and chorizo, drizzled with some of the cooking juices. I like to have some fresh baguette to mop up the juices from my plate and an ice-cold Spanish beer to go with the chicken. PER SERVING 795kcals, 30.3g fat (9.2g saturated), 75.6g protein, 49.9g carbs (12.3g sugars), 2.3g salt, 10.2g fibre
PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: WEI TANG
You can’t go wrong with roast chicken, but when it incorporates the glorious colours and flavours of chorizo and fresh peppers, it raises the bar. Why keep it just for Sundays?
The recipe hall of fame
QUICHE LORRAINE It’s the time of year for eating in the great outdoors, and what better fodder than a melt-in-the-mouth quiche? Food writer Debbie Major gives her version of a quiche lorraine – with added savouriness from cheese. She’s also conjured up a summery recipe using Boursin, quail eggs and chives. Time to shake out the picnic blanket…
How to jazz it up • Add other flavourings and fillings to your quiche, such as fresh herbs, roasted and cooled veg or smoked fish. • Use chopped sliced bacon instead of bacon lardons. Sweet, maple-cured bacon is also delicious, or add a drizzle of honey to the fried lardons and stir to coat. • Swap the bacon for ham. Chopped ham, flaked ham hock or shredded air-dried ham all work very well. • Use a wholemeal pastry case or one made with a little medium oatmeal for an extra nutty taste. • Sprinkle over a handful of mixed seeds or nuts just before the end of the baking time for some added crunch.
THE MASTER RECIPE Quiche lorraine SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 45-55 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Bake the pastry case up MAKE to 2 days ahead and keep AHEAD in an airtight container. The finished quiche will keep for 1-2 days, covered, in the fridge. Bring back to room temperature or warm in the oven before serving. • 200g smoked bacon lardons • 3 large free-range eggs • 300ml double cream • 75g gruyère cheese, grated • ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg FOR THE PASTRY
• 225g plain flour, plus extra to dust • ½ tsp salt • 65g chilled butter, cut into cubes • 65g chilled lard, cut into cubes YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 23cm x 4cm deep fluted tart tin or flan tin, lightly greased with butter 1 For the pastry, put the flour in a food processor with the salt, butter and lard. Whizz briefly until it looks like fine breadcrumbs, then transfer to a mixing bowl (or rub in with your fingers in a bowl) and stir in about 2 tbsp water until the mixture comes together in a ball. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead briefly until smooth. Roll out the pastry to the thickness of a pound coin and use to line the greased flan tin. Prick the base here and there 26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
with a fork, then chill for 20 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, put a baking sheet in the oven and heat to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Line the pastry case with a crumpled sheet of baking paper and fill with ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice. Slide it onto the hot baking sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes until the edges are biscuitcoloured. Remove the paper and beans/rice and return to the oven for 5-6 minutes until crisp and golden. Remove and turn the oven down to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. 3 Meanwhile, make the filling. Fry the bacon lardons in a dry non-stick frying pan over a medium heat until crisp and golden (about 5 minutes), then scoop out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Scatter two thirds over the pastry case base. 4 Crack the eggs into a large bowl and beat lightly with a fork. Gently whisk in the cream, then stir in 50g of the grated gruyère, the nutmeg and some pepper (hold back on the salt as the bacon and cheese are quite salty). Pour the mixture into the pastry case and scatter over the remaining bacon and cheese. 5 Bake the quiche in the oven for 25 minutes or until just set and lightly golden. Leave to rest for 5-10 minutes before removing from the tin. Cut into wedges to serve. PER SERVING 697kcals, 57.8g fat (31g saturated), 17g protein, 26.5g carbs (1.1g sugars), 2g salt, 1.4g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE The classic partner here is a balanced pinot blanc from Alsace in eastern France.
THE HISTORY Quiche is considered a classically French dish but it originated in the 16th century in the (then) German region of Lothringen, later renamed Lorraine by the French. The word ‘quiche’ derives from the German ‘kuchen’ for cake. It was originally made with a base of bread dough, with an egg and milk/cream custard filling flavoured with lean diced smoked bacon. Now synonymous with the Alsace and Lorraine regions of western France, it’s made with a pastry crust. The classic version is still made without cheese, which is a later (but well loved) addition.
THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS FREE-RANGE EGGS with deep coloured yolks to give your filling a beautiful buttery yellow colour. THE BEST BACON you can buy. Smoky and slightly sweet is perfect. DOUBLE CREAM isn’t essential but gives the quiche a rich texture. A WELL FLAVOURED, buttery, hard alpine cheese. Gruyère, beaufort and comté all fit the bill.
PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
THE DEFINING CHARACTERISTICS • Crisp, short pastry to contrast with the silky-smooth filling. • Lightly set egg custard enriched with cream and flavoured with a little aromatic nutmeg. • Filling studded with salty nuggets of smoked bacon. • The subtle savouriness of a well flavoured cheese.
DEBBIE’S TIPS FOR SUCCESS • Fry the lardons slowly to release the excess fat and render them crisp and golden. If the lardons are large, chop them into smaller pieces first. • Blind-bake the pastry case before filling or you’ll be left with that infamous soggy bottom. • Cook the pastry case on a hot baking sheet to ensure the centre of the base is crisp and cooked. • Don’t overcook. The filling should be lightly set, like an egg custard.
Turn the page for a quiche variation →
Recipe with a twist Air-dried ham and Boursin quiche with quail eggs
• 12 fresh (uncooked) quail eggs • 25g comté cheese, coarsely grated
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 45-55 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Bake the pastry case up MAKE to 2 days ahead and keep AHEAD in an airtight container. The finished quiche will keep for a day or two, well wrapped in the fridge. Bring back to room temperature or warm through in a medium oven before serving. • 25g butter • 1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced • 150g pack Garlic & Herbs Boursin cheese • 3 large free-range hen’s eggs • 300ml crème fraîche • 20g chives, chopped • 100g air-dried ham, such as French bayonne or Italian parma
NEXT MONTH The classic crumble – and a twist you’ll love
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 1 quantity shortcrust pastry (see master recipe, p26) • 23cm x 4cm deep fluted tart tin or flan tin, lightly greased with butter 1 Make the pastry, line the tart or flan tin and bake the pastry case exactly as in the master recipe (steps 1 & 2). 2 While the pastry case is baking, make the filling. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the spring onions and cook gently for 2 minutes until just softened. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly. 3 Crumble the Boursin cheese into a mixing bowl, crack in one of the hen’s eggs and mash together with the cheese until smooth. Add
the remaining hen’s eggs and the crème fraîche, then beat with a fork until smooth. Stir in the spring onions and three quarters of the chopped chives. 4 Shred the air-dried ham into small pieces, scatter them over the base of the pastry case, then pour over the egg mixture. Crack the quail eggs over the top of the quiche, then scatter over the 25g grated cheese and the rest of the chives. Bake for 25-30 minutes until lightly set and golden. Leave to rest for 5-10 minutes before removing the quiche from the tin. Cut into wedges to serve. PER SERVING (FOR 8) 594kcals, 47.9g fat (26.6g saturated), 18.3g protein, 21.6g carbs (2.3g sugars), 1.5g salt, 1.3g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chablis, the cool-climate, crisp but fruity chardonnay of northern Burgundy, is a great white for this.
delicious. 2017 PRODUCE AWARDS WINNER
MEET THE MAN WHO KNOWS WHERE TO FIND FOOD FOR FREE
Forager Wross Lawrence knows how to spot a feast where others just see foliage. Susan Low joined him in West Sussex as he searched for his award-winning sea purslane PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID CHARBIT
WHAT OUR FINAL JUDGING PANEL SAID
“Good fleshy texture and a fresh, zingy flavour with wonderful citrus notes.” 30 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
ith his bushy red beard and kind smile, Wross was easy to pick out from the crowd at Brighton station, our meeting point for the afternoon’s foray. I recognised Wross’s face from his Instagram account – but what I wasn’t prepared for was the powerful aroma of garlic that greeted me as I climbed into his blue van. With 20kg wild garlic leaves stacked in the back – from his morning’s foraging – there was no need to lock up; no one was going to nick this vehicle. By the time we got to our destination, I felt (and no doubt smelled) as though I’d been thoroughly marinated in garlic and was ready for the slow cooker. Our sea purslane search took place on the tidal estuary of the River Adur, beautiful coastal wilds near the town of Shoreham-by-Sea. You couldn’t conjure a prettier image of the English coast. At low tide there’s a sandy beach, and the surface of the river has a silvery sheen. There were a pair of swans, a heron, a falcon wheeling overhead; dog walkers and cyclists going about their business to an exuberant soundtrack of birdsong. Wross pointed out the sea purslane (Halimione portulacoides) that grows abundantly here: a small shrubby plant with thick, silvery grey leaves. Following Wross’s lead, I nibbled a few. They tasted like breathing in the freshest, cleanest, most ozone-charged lungful of sea air. Bearing in mind the beauty of the surroundings, the question, “What’s the
best part of your job?” felt a bit obvious. “Today’s a good example,” he replied. “It doesn’t get much nicer than this – T-shirt weather, sunshine. One thing that’s enjoyable for me is spending time picking something in particular – for example sheep sorrel or wood sorrel. They have small leaves so if you have an order for 3-4kg, it takes a long time. But I get lost in the process. You get into the zone.”
A FORAGER’S LIFE Wross’s career path couldn’t be described as ordinary. He started out as a fisherman and still works as a tree surgeon in the foraging off-season. He explains: “I grew up in the harbour village of Saundersfoot in Pembrokeshire, South Wales, and knew a guy who worked on a fishing boat. He said, ‘Why don’t you come and work for me?’ So I worked as a fisherman for five years and it got to the point where I was going to do that forever, or not; and I knew I didn’t want to be a fisherman forever.” Fishermen, inevitably, eat lots of fish and Wross was used to picking the likes of sea kale from the local foreshore to go with it – and soon an opportunity came his way. “I met a guy who had a foraging company in Wales and I spoke to him about my interest. He said, ‘I’ll teach you a bit more if you want.’ So I ended up working with him for about five years.” After learning the foraging ropes, Wross moved to London and set up →
meet the producer.
“Picking is so enjoyable that I get lost in the process”
TURN THE PAGE TO FIND A RECIPE USING SEA PURSLANE →
WILD WORLD, CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PICTURE
Picking can be a therapeutic pastime; the estuary of the River Adur; spot wild purslane leaves by their pale, silvery leaves; as the seasons change, so does the foraging
EATING THE SEASONS
Wross Lawrence is a one-man team
on his own about eight years ago. And when he says “on his own” he means it. “I rent a kitchen unit with fridges in north London, where I take the stuff I collect and keep it overnight. The next day I wash it, weigh it and pack it – I do all the picking, washing, packing and labelling myself – it’s a one-man team.” Is that part of the appeal, I ask? “It kind of is, in a way,” he laughs. “There’s something really nice about the solitude of it, the peacefulness of being near the river.” The parts of the job Wross likes least are not, as you might expect, the weather or the insect bites or the threat of stinging nettle rash (which our photographer, David, experienced, somewhat painfully). “I don’t mind the rain or snow – it’s just a matter of wearing the right clothes. The worst side is the accounting,
Foraging, it goes without saying, is tied to the seasons, as well as the weather. “My year starts in late March with wild garlic,” explains Wross. “I pick the flowers as well as the seed pods, which are lovely pickled. And just about the time the wild garlic finishes, I start with the elderflowers.” At roughly the same time, the first of the sea purslane is ready (like other sea vegetables, it has a lengthy season), as are its relatives, sea beet and sea aster. In June, salty, succulent marsh samphire, which also grows on this patch of estuary, comes into season. Then it’s wild salad leaves such as dandelion, wild clovers and wild fennel. Later, it’s rosehips, then the season ends with sloe berries around the time of the first frost. Wross works across Surrey, Kent, and East and West Sussex. “The terrain is a mix of coastal, from any sort of tributary to the sea, or streams, and woodland – it’s a nice mix.” On a good day, Wross will pick 8-10kg sea purslane and 10kg leathery sea beet. Getting food this way is the polar opposite of shopping for food in a temperature-controlled supermarket, where every fruit, vegetable or leaf from around the globe is available 24/7, hygienically wrapped and oven-ready. Foraged food is all about time and place and the rhythm of the seasons, and that’s its appeal, for the forager and the consumer.
FORAGING’S FUTURE Foraging, of course, is nothing new. It’s what our hunter-gatherer forebears did to keep themselves fed, before and after they domesticated animals, cultivated plants and settled into permanent farming communities. But foraging has become trendy in recent years, thanks largely to chefs such as René Redzepi, founder of the famed Noma restaurant in Copenhagen. Redzepi is a champion of wild, seasonal food, and Noma’s influential menus are built around local seasonal ingredients.
WHERE TO BUY Wross’s foraged produce is available through Abel & Cole (abelandcole.co.uk). Wild sea purslane, available for much of the year, is £1.85 for 50g plus P&P.
Foraged food is the pride of restaurants across the UK, from Edinburgh’s Forage & Chatter to Bristol’s The Ethicurean and London’s Native, and then there are countless foraging classes and courses for the wannabe food forager across the UK. Richard Mabey’s bestseller, Food for Free, a kind of bible for wild food aficionados, first published in 1972 and re-issued in 2012, is one of scores of popular books on the subject, from the River Cottage Handbook series (which covers everything from seashores to hedgerows) to Ray Mears’ Wild Food. Our own Gill Meller (see p45) is a wild food enthusiast, too. The popularity of wild and foraged foods has been an obvious boon for Wross as without a ready market of people who understand what foraged food is all about and who want to cook and eat it, he’d be out of a job. But its popularity can be a double-edged sword. Take the British market for wild mushrooms, says Wross. “There are a lot of mushrooms coming in from Eastern Europe now,” he explains. “So if I were to forage for mushrooms, I wouldn’t be able to compete on price. And something similar is happening with sea vegetables. Some are now being grown in polytunnels, which forces the price down, meaning I’m making less and less money. In 10 years or so, I can imagine it becoming impossible to do this kind of work.” Clearly one of life’s carpe-diem-type optimists, Wross ponders for a moment, then smiles and says, “But for the time being, at least I still get to be here in a place like this and do what I do.” And we all get to enjoy the fruit of his labours.
ILLUSTRATION: ALICE CLEARY. RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: LIZZIE MAYSON. STYLING: TABITHA HAWKINS
the admin, the emails – I’m not good at that,” he admits. “But on a day like today…” His beaming smile says it all.
meet the producer.
Chilli and garlic prawns with sea purslane SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
• 100g wild sea purslane (see Where to buy, opposite page) • 2 good glugs extra-virgin olive oil • 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled, bashed with a rolling pin • 1 tsp chilli flakes • 800g large sustainable raw shell-on tiger or king prawns • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve • 100ml good quality dry white wine • Fresh baguette or sourdough to serve 1 Pull the purslane leaves from the stalks; discard the woody stalks. 2 Heat the oil in a wide frying pan and add the garlic, chilli and sea purslane. Fry for 1 minute, then add the prawns. Cook for 2 minutes on each side until bright pink, then add the lemon zest, juice and white wine. Turn up the heat and simmer briskly for 3 minutes. Don’t cook off all the wine, as the acidity is key to this dish. 3 Remove from the heat and serve straight from the pan with hunks of fresh crusty baguette or sourdough. PER SERVING 263kcals, 10.2g fat (1.6g saturated), 36.5g protein, 1g carbs (0.7g sugars), 1.2g salt, 1.6g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chill a crisp, unoaked, modern Spanish white for this, such as a verdejo or sauvignon blanc from the Rueda region.
Judging continues this month for the regional rounds of the 2018 delicious. Produce Awards. During August produce will be assessed from Scotland at the Perth Show (3-4 August) and from the North West at the Nantwich Food Festival (31 August-2 September). To take a look at all the shortlisted contenders, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/produceawards
NEXT MONTH Riverford Organic Farmers’ award-winning mini cucumbers
THE HEAT OF THE MOMENT Fisher & Paykel induction hob CI905DTB3
Thanks to Fisher & Paykel’s induction hobs, rustling up impressive crowd-pleasing dishes has never been easier, safer – or more enjoyable
here’s no doubt about the importance of the hob in cooking incredible food – and Fisher & Paykel’s Touch&Slide 90cm 5 zone induction hob will comfortably outshine all your previous cooktops. Thanks to highly accurate temperature controls, you can sauté, sear and temper like a pro, and the easy-to-use Touch&Slide controls react immediately when you adjust the heat, allowing you to switch from a boil to a simmer in seconds. The hob’s Power and GentleHeat features, meanwhile, deliver a very high and very low heat for specialised cooking tasks, such as searing meat and melting chocolate – and there’s even an integrated timer to keep you on track. Induction hobs only start heating up when you place your pot or pan on them and stop as soon as it’s removed, making them really safe to use even when there are children in the kitchen. Plus, induction only heats the cookware, so the surface stays cool throughout. This prevents tough baked-on spills and means that all it takes is a quick wipe to have your hob looking as good as new. Induction cooking is also more energyefﬁcient than gas or electric, as no heat is wasted during the process.
CLEVER COOKING It may look and sound rather fancy, but induction cooking is actually quite simple. When a pot or pan is placed on an induction hob, an electromagnetic current passes through a coil beneath the surface and heats only the pot or pan – not the hob itself. As a result, only cookware made from magnetic materials – such as
magnetic stainless steel and cast iron – can be used on induction hobs (check with the retailer if you’re unsure whether yours is suitable). Induction cooking’s unrivalled precision and power, plus the fact that it’s energy efﬁcient and safer to use, is making it an increasingly popular choice among serious cooks. Time for an upgrade?
Discover the full Fisher & Paykel induction hob range at ﬁsherpaykel.com/uk
what’s good now.
Rick Stein’s guide to
SUMMER SHELLFISH He’s the go-to expert for everything you need to know about British fish and seafood – when it’s at its best, where to get it from and, most importantly, how to cook and enjoy it. These fresh-as-a-sea-breeze, flavour-packed recipes show off British shellfish in its prime
Mussels skordalia, p40
British shellfish – lobster, crab, prawns, scallops, mussels, oysters and clams – are mostly at their best in the summer months, and that’s also when they’re at their best value. Whether it be the sweet white firmness of lobster, the gloriously salty, sweet flavour of crab, the delicious soft density of scallops, the plumpness of just-cooked mussels or the fresh salty tang of oysters, I think our shellfish are the best in the world. RICK STEIN
Gratins à la dieppoise with sea bass, scallop, mussels and prawns SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT LUNCH, 8 AS A STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 10 MIN
This is from our menu at The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow, where the head chef is Stephane Delourme. It’s his take on a pleasingly old-fashioned recipe from Normandy: seafood in a cream, fish stock and white wine sauce. Assemble the gratins up to MAKE 12 hours ahead. Cover, keep AHEAD in the fridge and add an extra 3-5 minutes to the baking time. If you can’t find clarified FOOD TEAM’S butter or ghee use light TIP olive oil. Or, to clarify your own butter, melt it in a clean pan, then strain through a clean J-cloth to remove the white milk solids and leave the clear butter. • 400ml fresh fish or shellfish stock • Fresh thyme sprig • 1 bay leaf • 240g sustainable sea bass fillet, skinned • 4 sustainable British king scallops, each sliced in half to form 2 discs • 15g butter, plus extra for frying • ½ banana shallot, finely chopped • 16 British mussels, scrubbed, beards removed, see p38 (discard any that don’t close when tapped sharply on the work surface) • 2 tbsp dry white wine • 20g plain flour • 40ml double cream • 1 lemon, halved for squeezing • 40g button mushrooms, stalks removed and thickly sliced • Knob of clarified butter or ghee (see tip) • 40g panko breadcrumbs • 16 sustainable raw king prawns, peeled YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
RECIPES RICK STEIN PHOTOGRAPHS TARA FISHER FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING WEI TANG
• 8 scallop shells (available from your fishmonger) or 8 shallow ramekins →
whatâ€™s good now.
Gratins Ă la dieppoise with sea bass, scallop, mussels and prawns
stirring occasionally, then stir in the cream and season to taste with a squeeze of lemon juice and salt. 4 Heat an extra knob of butter in a frying pan and add the mushrooms. Add 2 tsp water and juice of half a lemon and cook for 3-4 minutes until soft. Pour any excess liquid into the sauce. Set the mushrooms aside on a plate. Wipe out the pan and heat the clarified butter (see tip), add the panko breadcrumbs and fry for 2-3 minutes until lightly golden. 5 To assemble the gratins, put a little sauce in a scallop shell/ramekin and top with half a scallop, some flakes of sea bass, 2 mussels, 2 prawns and 3-4 mushroom slices. Finish with a covering of sauce and a sprinkle of panko breadcrumbs. Bake for 10 minutes before serving. PER SERVING (FOR 4) 336kcals, 19.1g fat (9g saturated), 28.4g protein, 11.2g carbs (0.8g sugars), 1.7g salt, 0.4g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chill a dry but relatively rich and rounded white burgundy. A classic wine match.
• 60ml olive oil • 2 unpeeled garlic cloves, bruised • 12 sustainable medium shell-on raw prawns, peeled, heads and shells reserved • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 350g dried linguine • 60g British squid rings and tentacles, cleaned • 16 British mussels, scrubbed, beards removed (discard any that don’t close when tapped sharply on the work surface) • ¼ tsp chilli flakes • 2 handfuls cherry tomatoes, halved • ½ tsp sea salt • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, roughly chopped
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN
• Stick blender or food processor
Make and sieve the prawn/ MAKE tomato stock up to 24 hours AHEAD in advance. Once cold keep
My friend, fisherman David Evans, who supplies our restaurants, gave me this advice about the best time to enjoy British shellfish… LOBSTER End of May to end of August Mid-May to end of September l SCALLOPS Virtually any time of year but especially good in the summer l OYSTERS, MUSSELS AND CLAMS It used to be considered dangerous to eat these shellfish in summer because they spawn at this time of year, so they’re not as plump and there are a lot of milky eggs. These days, thanks to refrigeration and safe harvesting, ‘bad molluscs’, as they are called, are a thing of the past, and clever breeding of different species makes the milkiness much less of a problem than it used to be. l CRAB
I came across this dish all over the Adriatic. I had a good one in Bulgaria, but the best version was in Albania. Lots of pasta tossed with shellfish and a sauce made from the shells along with tomatoes, olive oil and garlic.
WHEN IS BRITISH SHELLFISH AT ITS BEST?
covered in the fridge until ready to use (bring to room temperature first).
1 Heat half the olive oil in a large, deep, heavy-based frying or sauté pan with a tight-fitting lid. Add the garlic and prawn heads and shells and fry over a high heat for 5 minutes, turning from time to time. Add the tomato purée and 300ml cold water, then simmer with the lid on for 10 minutes. Use a stick blender to whizz the mixture (or cool slightly and whizz in a food processor). Pass through a sieve into a bowl and set aside (discard the solids in the sieve). 2 Cook the linguine in a large pan of salted boiling water for 10 minutes or until al dente (firm to the bite). Meanwhile, wipe out the frying/sauté pan, then add the rest of the olive oil and fry the squid and prawns over a high heat for 2 minutes. 3 Add the strained prawn and tomato stock, then the mussels, chilli flakes and cherry tomatoes. Bring to the boil, cover with the lid →
RECIPE FROM RICK STEIN: FROM VENICE TO ISTANBUL (BBC BOOKS £25)
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Put the fish stock in a deep, heavy-based frying or sauté pan. Warm gently with the thyme and bay, add a pinch of salt, then lower the sea bass fillet into the stock. Poach for 1-2 minutes, turning over halfway through the cooking time. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, then repeat with the scallops. Strain the stock and keep warm to make the sauce. 2 Heat a knob of butter in a medium saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Once the butter is foaming, add the shallot and fry for 30 seconds. Add the mussels, stir quickly, then pour in 1 tablespoon of the wine and cover with the lid. Cook for 3-4 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally until the mussels have just opened. Strain in a colander/sieve, making sure you catch and reserve the liquid. Remove the mussels from their shells (discard any that haven’t opened; discard the shells). 3 To make the sauce, melt the 15g butter in a medium pan over a medium heat, then stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Pour in the remaining tablespoon of wine then, whisking continuously, slowly add the warm fish stock and mussel liquid (be careful not to add any grit) to form a smooth sauce. Simmer for 10 minutes to thicken,
whatâ€™s good now.
what’s good now.
and boil rapidly for 4 minutes until the mussels have opened (discard any that don’t open). Remove the lid and, if necessary, bubble the liquid to reduce to a sauce consistency, then season with the salt and ground black pepper (about 10 twists of a pepper mill). Add the well-drained pasta along with the parsley and toss together well. Serve immediately. PER SERVING 497kcals, 13.6g fat (2g saturated), 25.9g protein, 65.1g carbs (3.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, 5.3g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE It’s got to be a bright, zesty Italian soave or gavi.
Mussels skordalia SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN
A made-in-heaven combo. Hot mussels with a Greek potato, olive oil and garlic sauce called skordalia.
Make the skordalia up to MAKE the end of step 2 a day in AHEAD advance. Keep covered in the fridge and stir well before using. Use 1 tsp salt per 600ml RICK’S water when cooking TIPS potatoes. It’s best to prepare the mussels at the last minute, just before you’re ready to cook them. • 160ml dry white wine • 1.6kg British mussels, scrubbed, beards/threads removed – see p38 (discard any that don’t close when tapped on the work surface) • 15-20g fresh dill, chopped FOR THE SKORDALIA
• 135g floury potatoes (such as maris piper) • 3 garlic cloves, peeled • ½ tsp fine sea salt • 30g blanched almonds • 100ml olive oil • Juice ½ lemon
TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT If you’ve grown to love shellfish such as mussels, scallops and so on, branch out and try some more unusual species… l RAZOR
CLAMS in the UK are usually from Scotland, and they’re so called because the shell looks like an old cut-throat razor l WINKLES are tiny little sea snails, which I still think are worth the effort extracting with a long pin – a winkle-picker l WHELKS These are much larger sea snails. Some people find the texture a bit off-putting so my advice is to go for smaller ones; those from Folkestone are particularly good.
And don’t forgetÉ the delicious little brown shrimps from Morecambe Bay in the northwest, the small harbour prawns from, for example, Falmouth Bay in Cornwall and The Wash in Norfolk. Boil them in plenty of well-salted water and peel leisurely, accompanied with crusty bread, a bowl of good mayonnaise and some friends.
NEXT MONTH The on-trend guide to pickling and fermenting
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Food processor 1 To make the skordalia, cut the potatoes into chunks and put in a pan of cold salted water (see Rick’s tips). Bring to the boil, turn down the heat and leave to simmer until very soft (about 15 minutes), then drain. 2 Put the garlic in a food processor with the salt, almonds and drained potatoes, then whizz until smooth. With the motor running on a medium speed, add the oil very slowly until the mixture forms an emulsion. If you add the oil too quickly it might split. With the motor still running, add the lemon juice and a little water if necessary to get the right consistency – it should be like mayonnaise (see Make Ahead). 3 Heat the wine in a large pan with a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat until just boiling. Tip in the mussels (see Rick’s tips), cover the pan with the lid and cook for 3-4 minutes, shaking the pan every now and then, until the mussels have opened (discard any that don’t open). Stir in the skordalia to coat the mussels, then stir in most of the chopped dill. Serve the mussels right away scattered with the remaining dill. PER SERVING 374kcals, 24.9g fat (3.4g saturated), 22.8g protein, 7.1g carbs (0.9g sugars), 1.3g salt, 0.8g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A crisp white such as Greek assyrtiko is spot on, or a lemony French picpoul is nearly as good.
Rick Stein’s restaurants are celebrating A Summer of Shellfish throughout August. For more information, visit rickstein.com
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WHAT TO LOOK FOR Sweetcorn is at its best from now until late September. Plump, firm kernels are a sure sign of freshness and if the cobs are still in their creamy green husks, even better. Avoid any cobs that have dark spots, blemishes or shrivelled kernels – they may have been poorly stored or are past their best. Store in a cool, dry place and eat within a few days.
STAR OF THE SEASON
Sweetcorn Bright, sunshine yellow corn sings out for summer. Whether it’s cooked in its husk, lightly charred, then eaten messily, dripping with butter, or with the kernels sliced from the cob and sprinkled over salads to add fresh, sweet burst of flavour, this versatile veg takes me straight back to childhood. I’ve spiced things up here with a charred salsa – the perfect match for build-your-own tacos. Or for a moreish sweet-and-savoury twist for hot cobs, I’ve spiked my butter with crispy pancetta and earthy rosemary. SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR
PHOTOGRAPHS MIKE ENGLISH FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING WEI TANG 42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
what’s good now.
Chicken and charred corn tacos SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
The corn salsa can be made MAKE up to 48 hours ahead and AHEAD kept in a sealed container in the fridge. Bring back to room temperature before serving. Substitute 150g readyNEXT cooked white crabmeat for TIME the chicken. • 4 tbsp olive oil • ¼ tsp sweet smoked paprika • 1 tbsp chipotle sauce (we used Tabasco chipotle sauce) • 3 limes • 3 tbsp good quality mayonnaise • 2 sweetcorn cobs in their husks • 8 small or 4 large, soft corn tortillas • 2 ripe avocados, sliced • 2 cooked free-range chicken breasts, sliced (see Next Time) • 4 spring onions, sliced • 150g cherry tomatoes, halved • Handful fresh coriander leaves 1 Light a barbecue or heat a griddle pan to high. In a small bowl, mix the oil, paprika, chipotle sauce and the finely grated zest and juice of 1½ limes. Transfer 2 tbsp to a separate bowl and mix with the mayo to make a dressing. Set aside.
2 When the barbecue coals are glowing white or the griddle pan is hot, peel back the husks from the corn, cut off or tie back with string, then brush each cob with some chipotle and lime mixture. Cook, turning and basting with the rest of the chipotle and lime mixture, until beginning to char on all sides (10-15 minutes). Once cool enough to handle, hold each cob vertically on a secure chopping board and carefully slice down the sides with a sharp knife to remove the kernels.
3 Warm the tortillas on the barbecue or in the griddle pan for 1-2 minutes. Top with avocado, chicken (or see Next Time), spring onions, tomatoes, charred corn, a spoonful of dressing and a few coriander leaves. Serve with the remaining limes, cut into wedges, for squeezing. PER SERVING 586kcals, 27.5g fat (3.7g saturated), 30.8g protein, 52.1g carbs (5.7g sugars), 0.9g salt, 3.6g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A juicy, ripe white such as Chilean chardonnay. →
what’s good now.
Sweetcorn with pancetta, rosemary and garlic butter SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
The butter will keep, well MAKE wrapped, for up to 48 hours AHEAD in the fridge or up to 1 month in the freezer. • 6 pancetta slices, finely chopped • 2 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves stripped and chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 100g unsalted butter, softened • Vegetable oil to rub 1 Cook the pancetta in a frying pan over a high heat for 1 minute on each side until beginning to crisp. Add the rosemary and garlic and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant and the pancetta is very crisp. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool for 10 minutes. 2 Put the butter in a bowl, add the cooled pancetta mix and stir to combine. Chill for 20 minutes. Once firm enough to handle, spoon onto a sheet of cling film and roll up into a long cylinder, twisting the ends tightly. Wrap in more cling film and chill until firm (see Make Ahead). 3 Light a barbecue or heat a griddle pan. When the coals are glowing white or the pan is hot, peel back the husks from the corn and cut off or tie back with string. Rub the corn cobs all over with the oil, then grill for 8-10 minutes, turning, until charred and tender. Spread with the flavoured butter and eat straightaway. PER SERVING 240kcals, 20.3g fat (10g saturated), 5.4g protein, 8g carbs (2g sugars), 0.5g salt, 2.1g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A sunny white from hot Sicily has the right balance – try a fiano. 44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
NEXT MONTH Sensational recipes for figs
what’s good now.
Gill Meller A COOK’S YEAR
During his 11 years at River Cottage, our resident columnist has made an art of knowing when seasonal food is at its peak – and how to show it off to its best advantage. This month Gill turns his attention to rabbit, an under-appreciated, sustainable meat that’s at its best right now
RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY deliciousmagazine.co.uk 45
I can’t understand why we don’t eat more rabbit. It’s one of the best-tasting, most sustainable meats around. Compare the life a wild rabbit has led to that of an intensively farmed chicken and ask yourself which is preferable. The answer is clear, but still we tend to look away. Perhaps we can’t help but think of rabbits in an emotional way – which isn’t a bad thing; we should think of all life in an emotional way. But we must also be realistic. Industrial animal farming is wrecking our environment and it’s brutally unnatural. Wild rabbits live a natural existence. They’re abundant and as versatile as chicken – the only culinary difference is that rabbits taste better. Years ago, I made a load of rabbit burgers for an episode of the River Cottage television series. Hugh and I took a stall at the local farmers’ market with a sign saying ‘bunny burgers’. I think we even did rabbit satay. They were so delicious that people were coming back for more. The smells coming off the grill were incredible. People were eating rabbit and loving it, which was what we hoped would happen. For those who might like to give rabbit a try, a burger isn’t a bad way to start. This is my version of that sensational bunny burger Hugh and I sold all those years ago.
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING,
• 1 garlic clove, crushed • 50g fresh white breadcrumbs • Good pinch chilli flakes (optional) • 2 tsp fine sea salt
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR
Your local butcher should sell wild GILL’S rabbit. If he doesn’t, first shame him, TIP then ask if he might find some. He’ll skin them and portion them for you (or for this recipe, ask him to mince it, along with the pork). Buy several rabbits if you’re planning a few barbecues, then freeze and use as needed. Make the burgers and bake the MAKE tomatoes 1-2 days in advance, then AHEAD cover and chill (separately) until ready to cook. Warm the tomatoes before serving. • 8 medium tomatoes • Olive oil for drizzling and frying • Bunch fresh watercress • 6 tbsp good quality mayonnaise (homemade or see p112) • 250g soft blue cheese (we used gorgonzola dolce) • 8 soft burger buns, halved FOR THE BURGERS
• 700-800g rabbit meat, minced (see Gill’s tip) • 300g fatty pork belly, minced (see Gill’s tip) • ½ small bunch fresh parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped • ½ small bunch fresh thyme, leaves picked and finely chopped
1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/gas 2. Put all the burger ingredients in a large bowl with plenty of black pepper and mix with your hands for 1-2 minutes. This will help them bind and give a good texture. Shape into 8 equal patties, no more than 2cm thick, then wrap in cling film and chill until ready to cook (see Make Ahead). 2 Meanwhile, halve the tomatoes and put them cut-side up on a baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Roast for 1 hour (or longer for a more intense flavour). 3 Take half the watercress and, discarding any really thick stalks, chop finely with a knife, then mix with the mayonnaise in a small bowl. 4 Cook the burgers on a barbecue or in a large, lightly oiled, heavy-based frying pan for 4-5 minutes on each side. When they're almost ready, crumble the blue cheese onto the burgers (while still on the heat) and leave to melt for a minute or so. 5 To serve, put a handful of fresh watercress in each bun, hold in place with a cooked rabbit burger, add a spoonful of watercress mayo and finish with 2 slow-roast tomato halves. PER SERVING 720kcals, 39.9g fat (14.5g saturated), 43.4g protein, 45.1g carbs (5g sugars), 3.2g salt, 3.1g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A soft, juicy beaujolais works here, especially a fleurie or morgon.
5 MORE IDEAS FOR RABBIT • Rabbit ragù is my favourite rabbit recipe, and it’s in my cookbook Gather (Quadrille £25). I cook it with bacon and herbs until it’s falling-apart tender, then serve with pappardelle pasta and shavings of good parmesan. • A rabbit terrine is a thing of beauty. I make one with carrots, mustard and white wine. • Slow-cook rabbit with cider, leeks and cream for a wonderful alternative to darker stews. • Rabbit satay is exceptional. Marinate and grill rabbit chunks on skewers, as you would chicken. • Gently poach portions of rabbit, chill, coat in breadcrumbs, then deep-fry until crisp. Delicious with a good aïoli for dipping and a cold beer for drinking.
FANCY MEETING GILL IN REAL LIFE? Turn to p115
and find out how you can be part of an unmissable, readerexclusive day out at River Cottage in Devon, with Gill and delicious. editor Karen Barnes. The day will include foraging, baking bread, and cooking and sharing a threecourse feast – as well as a chance to chat to Gill and Karen.
Fat, as it’s naturally quite a lean meat. You can pair it with bacon, pancetta, cream, butter or olive oil • Spice: rabbit is great in curries and chillies • Wine, beer and cider (but then, who doesn’t?) 46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
RABBIT IMAGE FROM RIVER COTTAGE A TO Z (BLOOMSBURY £40), AVAILABLE NOW. PHOTOGRAPHY © SIMON WHEELER
Rabbit burgers with watercress mayonnaise, blue cheese and slow-roast tomatoes
whatâ€™s good now.
NEXT MONTH Gill gets cracking with lobster
Food writer in residence No 8
ZOEâ€™S EAST AFRICAN ADVENTURE Our writer in residence this month and next is the ubertalented Zoe Adjonyoh, chef, restaurateur, food writer and all-round champion of African cuisine. Earlier this year, she set off to explore Kenya, its food history, ingredients, influences and cooking methods. Inspired and enthused, she shows just how do-able a colourful Kenyan adventure is â€“ in your own kitchen
the residency. ZOE’S KENYAN FEAST FOR 4-6 HUNGRY PEOPLE Pan-fried red snapper served with irio mukimo (mashed potatoes with pumpkin leaves and corn) and tomato coconut sauce
Nyama choma (roasted short ribs) served with sukuma wiki (kale stew) and kachumbari (tomato salsa)
PHOTOGRAPHS MIKE ENGLISH FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE deliciousmagazine.co.uk 49
I’m a champion of Africa’s culinary diversity and I wanted to explore the food of Kenya first hand. I was fortunate enough to be guided by two Kenyan food experts – blogger and development chef Sheena Amario (of sheenas kitchen.com) and blogger and brand consultant Kaluhi Adagala (from kaluhiskitchen.com). What I discovered on my trip is that Kenyan food is so much more than the Indian-influenced Swahili style of cooking I was familiar with in the UK. What surprised me most was its simplicity, breadth of ingredients and cooking methods. Kenya’s landscape spans farmland, lakes and the Indian Ocean coast, each delivering a wealth of fresh vegetables, fruit, fish and seafood, with beef and goat the most used meats. Diet is very much influenced by the original tribe of each household. During our trip Sheena took me to downtown Nairobi’s Ngara market, where we shopped in preparation to cook together. I was overwhelmed by the variety of fresh, relatively cheap and easy-to-use ingredients, from European staples such as potatoes, carrots, kale, spinach, cabbage and tomatoes, to Indian herbs and spices such as fenugreek and cumin. There was also an abundance of tropical fruit: mangoes, bananas, oranges, pineapples, papaya – and lots of avocado. There’s a strong colonial influence on Kenyan food, which comes in large part from the mass migration of Gujarati people, brought by the British to build railroads, but there are vestiges of British, Persian, Portuguese and Chinese influence in dishes such as chicken tikka, pilaf and curry. In the mid 15th century the Portuguese introduced foods from Brazil such as maize, bananas, pineapple, chillies, capsicums, sweet potatoes and cassava, which have since became staples, as well as oranges, lemons and limes from China. It was interesting to ask the question, “What is traditional (and that awful word ‘authentic’) Kenyan cuisine?” Because Kenya has been colonised so many times, it’s tricky to separate inherently Kenyan food from its adopted ingredients. Kaluhi works with indigenous flavours and ingredients, re-imagining and updating traditional dishes – an approach I share. These recipes are inspired by the food I cooked with Sheena and touch on some of the more traditional food I ate with Kaluhi, as we munched around Nairobi’s dining spots. I hope you get a flavour of Kenya’s food culture and history, and see how accessible it is to make at home in the UK. Happy cooking. 50 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Nyama choma (roasted short ribs), p52
Pan-fried red snapper (p52) â€“ great with tomato coconut sauce and irio mukimo (mashed potatoes with pumpkin leaves and corn), p54
Nyama choma (roasted short ribs)
Sukuma wiki (kale stew)
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
OVEN TIME 2-2½ HOURS
Nyama choma means grilled or roasted meat; it’s probably Kenya’s national dish. It’s usually cooked over an open fire and served with sukuma wiki (kale stew) and kachumbari (tomato salsa), both of which I’ve included here, or a polenta-like dish called ugali. It’s the perfect barbecue food. Cook the ribs to MAKE the end of step 1 AHEAD up to 2 days ahead. Cover and keep in the fridge. If you don’t want to grill or ZOE’S barbecue the meat, return TIPS it to the oven in step 2, uncovered, for 1 hour 20 minutes, basting frequently. • 2kg British beef or goat short ribs • A few rosemary sprigs • 2 tbsp olive oil 1 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3. Put the ribs in a large roasting tray, season with salt and pepper, then brush with a rosemary sprig dipped in olive oil. Add a mugful of water, cover the tin tightly with 2 sheets of foil and roast for 2-2½ hours or until tender. The meat should pull apart easily. If it’s not quite ready, return it to the oven and check after 30 minutes or so. 2 Once the meat is tender, remove from the oven (reserve any juices for basting) and heat your grill or barbecue to medium-high. Grill the ribs for 20-25 minutes, basting with oil and cooking juices as you go, until golden brown, tender and juicy. PER SERVING 303kcals, 20.1g fat (6.4g saturated), 30.4g protein, no carbs, 0.2g salt, no fibre 52 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
A great little side dish for almost any meal. This is called a stew but is more like sautéed greens. Its name means either ‘to stretch the week’ as in eke out the meal for a week or, as another Kenyan told me, it means to ‘feed the weak’. Either way it reflects the notion of sustenance – and with all that iron, it makes sense. Again, simplicity itself. • 2 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 medium onion, finely chopped • 3 ripe tomatoes (such as plum or beef), roughly chopped • 200g kale, tough stalks removed and leaves roughly chopped 1 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and cook the onion gently until softened and translucent. Add the tomatoes and cook for a few minutes until starting to soften, then turn up the heat, stir in the kale with a pinch of salt and cook for 1-2 minutes more. 2 Add 115ml water, then simmer on a medium-low heat for 8 minutes until the kale is tender. Season to taste and serve warm. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 65kcals, 4.3g fat (0.3g saturated), 1.6g protein, 3.8g carbs (3.3g sugars), trace salt, 2.4g fibre
Kachumbari (tomato salsa) SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN
This is a quick and supereasy salsa to serve alongside the main meal. I love that seemingly every food culture I stumble upon has its own salsa! MAKE Complete to the end of AHEAD step 2 up to 4 hours ahead. • 2 medium red onions, finely chopped • 6 large salad tomatoes, chopped (seeds and stalks removed)
• 3 carrots, grated • Juice 2 large or 3 medium lemons (or use 4-5 limes if you prefer) • 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander • 1 green chilli, sliced, to garnish (optional) 1 Soak the chopped onions in salted water to let them pickle slightly for a few minutes, then drain well (see Make Ahead). 2 Tip the chopped tomatoes onto a serving platter or bowl and sprinkle with the onions and carrots. Squeeze over the lemon juice and season with salt to taste (be mindful here of the salted onions). Chill until needed (see Make Ahead). 3 When ready to serve, sprinkle with the chopped coriander and chilli, if using, and serve cold. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 60kcals, 0.4g fat (0.1g saturated), 1.4g protein, 10.6g carbs (9.5g sugars), 0.1g salt, 4.2g fibre
Pan-fried red snapper SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
You often hear chefs say that good food is about great ingredients, and what we Africans are good at is letting the ingredients sing without too much fuss. This recipe is a prime example: good quality fresh fish, fried with little else going on – so simple and so tasty. Grains of paradise is KNOW- widely used in North HOW and West African cuisine. A complex spice, it has notes of allspice, clove, coconut and cardamom. Available from steenbergs.co.uk (£5.50 for 60g). • 6 x 175g fillets sustainable fresh red snapper (or any similar sustainable white fish that’s good and fresh) • 1 tbsp cayenne pepper • 25g grains of paradise, crushed (optional; see Know-how) • 1 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil for frying • Lemon wedges to serve →
Kachumbari (tomato salsa), sukuma wiki (kale stew) and nyama choma (roasted short ribs)
SUSY ATKINS’ WINE PICKS Punchy flavours from tomatoes, chillies, spices and meat demand drinks with forceful aromas and ripe fruit. Best white wine for the snapper, tomato dishes and kale stew is lipsmacking New Zealand sauvignon blanc, and top red for the ribs is an Aussie cabernetshiraz or South African pinotage. A hoppy IPA ale is another good draught for the kale (and the mash), as is a ginger beer.
1 Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle the flesh side with the cayenne pepper and crushed grains of paradise, if using. 2 Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan. Fry the fish, skin-side down, over a medium-high heat, for 5-6 minutes until the skin is crisp and the fish almost cooked, then turn and cook for a further 1-2 minutes until cooked through. 3 Transfer the fish to a serving plate and add the lemon wedges for squeezing over. Serve with the tomato sauce and vivid green mash (below and right). PER SERVING 137kcals, 3.7g fat (0.6g saturated), 25.1g protein, 0.3g carbs (no sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.1g fibre
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
Irio mukimo (mashed potatoes with pumpkin leaves and corn)
SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
Tomato coconut sauce
SIMMERING TIME 25 MIN
This is insanely delicious and so simple to make. It tastes brilliant with the fish and mashed potatoes. Make the sauce without the MAKE coriander up to 24 hours in AHEAD advance, cool, then cover and chill. Return to a simmer and stir through the coriander to serve.
NEXT MONTH In part two of her residency, Zoe explains how she fell in love with food
Add the garlic and cook for another minute or so until fragrant. Stir in the tomatoes, then simmer, covered, for 4-5 minutes until starting to soften. 2 Stir in the chillies, tomato purée and stock. Simmer briskly for 2 minutes, then turn the heat down, cover with the lid and cook gently for a further 5 minutes or until the tomatoes are completely softened, adding a little extra stock if needed. 3 Stir in the peppers and coconut milk and simmer for a further 8-10 minutes (see Make Ahead). Season to taste, stir in the coriander and serve alongside the grilled fish. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 126kcals, 7.9g fat (5.1g saturated), 2.8g protein, 9.2g carbs (6.5g sugars), 0.1g salt, 3.6g fibre
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 medium red onion, finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 4 large beef or plum tomatoes, roughly chopped • 2 green bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped • 1 tsp tomato purée • 100ml good quality vegetable stock • 2 green peppers, chopped • 200ml coconut milk • 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander 1 In a saucepan (one with a lid), heat the oil over a medium heat. Add the onions and fry for a few minutes over a low-medium heat until soft.
Sheena tells me that this dish hails from the Kikuyu tribe, of which her family are members. The Kikuyu and Gikuyu grow their own corn, beans, potatoes, and greens. They mash all these vegetables together to make irio. We sometimes roll the irio into balls and dip into meat or vegetable stews, but it can be served as a side dish, too. For additional flavour you can fry some red onions in a little butter until lightly caramelised and gently stir these into the mash. Add a pinch of baking soda to the pumpkin leaves when cooking to speed up the cooking time Use spinach if you can’t FOOD TEAM’S get pumpkin leaves, but TIPS use the older, larger leaves, which have more flavour. If using tinned or frozen corn or peas, omit the first cooking step. ZOE’S TIPS
• 300g malenge (pumpkin leaves), tough stalks removed and washed (see food team’s tips)
• 1kg white potatoes, peeled and quartered • 1 corn on the cob (use white corn if you can find it), or 100g tinned or defrosted frozen corn (see food team’s tips) • 200g fresh peas, podded, or use frozen peas, defrosted (see food team’s tips) • 50g butter 1 Bring 4 pans of water to the boil and simmer all 4 vegetables separately until tender. The pumpkin leaves will take 20-25 minutes (10-15 if using spinach), the potatoes 15-20 minutes, the corn 10-15 minutes, and the peas 5-10 minutes. Drain each vegetable well. Carefully slice the kernels from the corn cobs with a sharp knife. 2 Mash the potatoes with the butter and some salt and pepper until creamy and smooth. (Mashing while they’re still steaming will help keep that fluffiness and make it easier to combine the other ingredients later.) 3 Put the pumpkin (or spinach) leaves in a blender or food processor with about 75ml water and blend until smooth. Stir into the potatoes and mash again until evenly coloured. Gently mix in the cooked corn and peas, then taste and season. Keep warm until ready to serve. PER SERVING 271kcals, 8.6g fat (4.7g saturated), 7.9g protein, 36.7g carbs (3.1g sugars), 0.2g salt, 7.5g fibre
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TASTES LIKE HOME
“Food inspiration passed from my war-hero grandad to my mum, then to me” I was born in Liverpool in 1978. My mum’s dad was a World War II hero who spent four years as a Japanese prisoner of war, enduring hardships that today would be unimaginable. One of his duties in the camp was to cook for his fellow prisoners – pots of rice and meat or whatever animals they could get their hands on… His experience as a POW meant he always had a passion for food, and my mum Linda grew up in a house where a respect for mealtimes was paramount. In 1981 my Dad landed a job in Alberta, Canada, so Mum, Dad, my brother Paul and I moved to Edson, a rural cowboy town with no English people, let alone Scousers. Over the years Mum introduced many people to the joys of a Sunday roast and her speciality, Lancashire hotpot. In return we were introduced to dishes such as chicken pot-pie and butter tarts – a Canadian institution. Eating one of these takes me back to the 1980s, when their aroma would greet me when I came home from school. Mum was a great baker and adopted this recipe as her own. She passed away in 1994, but she was and is my food inspiration. I owe my passion to her.
Adam (left), his mum Linda, brother Paul and his grandparents
Sultana butter tarts MAKES 15. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 15 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Make the pastry, wrap well MAKE in cling film and chill for up AHEAD to 2 days. The baked tarts will keep somewhere cool for up to 3 days in an airtight tin. Or freeze in freezer bags for up to 3 months. You can leave the vinegar out ADAM’S of the pastry but it won’t be TIP as tender and flaky. • 225g Stork Original Baking Block • 280g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp white wine vinegar • 1 medium free-range egg • 2-3 tsp ice-cold water FOR THE FILLING
• 85g sultanas • 2 tbsp rum, whisky, brandy or cognac (optional) or hot water • 170g golden syrup • 85g soft brown sugar • 2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted • 1 medium free-range egg • 1 tbsp vanilla extract • 50g pecan halves YOU’LL ALSO NEED...
• 8-10cm cookie cutter; 2 x 12-hole non-stick muffin tins 1 Cut the Stork into cubes and rub into the flour and salt in a large bowl
until the mixture forms crumbs the size of frozen peas. 2 In a separate bowl, mix the vinegar, egg (see Adam’s tip) and 2 tsp of the cold water. Add to the flour mix, then bring together to form a soft, slightly sticky dough. You may need to add extra ice-cold water – if so add just ½ tsp at a time. (Don’t over-work the dough or use too much water.) 3 Flatten the pastry into a disc, wrap in cling film and chill in the fridge for 1-2 hours (see Make Ahead) or freeze for 30 minutes. 4 Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to the thickness of a £1 coin. Use a floured cutter to cut 15 circles. Gently press the circles into the tins and chill for 30 minutes. 5 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Meanwhile make the filling. Put the sultanas in a medium heatproof bowl with 2 tbsp alcohol or hot water, then microwave for 15 seconds and allow to cool slightly. Add the golden syrup, sugar, melted butter, egg and vanilla, then mix well. Spoon into the pastry cases to about two-thirds full (don’t overfill or they’ll overflow when baking), then top each with 1-2 pecan halves. 6 Bake for 15 minutes or until deep golden and bubbling. Cool in the tins for 10 minutes, then remove and cool on a wire rack (see Make Ahead). PER TART 298kcals, 16.5g fat (5.5g saturated), 3.5g protein, 32.3g carbs (18g sugars), 0.7g salt, 1.1g fibre
FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG
delicious. reader Adam Ringrose moved to Canada when he was young, a life-changing moment full of new experiences – not to mention flavours. His love of food comes from his mother, whose baking was legendary, although his grandad had a big role to play too
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Tear and share feta and herb bread, p64
THE POSH PICNIC
WHEN THE SUN IS
Weâ€™ve all packed a few dodgy chicken drumsticks and curled sarnies in our time, but summer days are moments to relish and do it proper-like, with a feast spread out on a rug in a park, maybe for an open-air concert or a spot of Shakespeare. Try these sharing recipes for size RECIPES, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING LOUISE PICKFORD PHOTOGRAPHS IAN WALLACE
what’s good now.
THE MENU To start Marinated goat’s cheese with garden vegetables Tear and share feta & herb bread
The main course Persian chicken with spiced yogurt Barley, aubergine & pomegranate salad Roasted red peppers with basil
For pud Chocolate swirl meringues, berries and white chocolate sauce
1 Put the fennel and coriander seeds in a heavy-based pan, then heat gently until fragrant and beginning to pop. Add the oil, garlic, chillies, rosemary and bay, then warm gently to infuse. Leave to cool. Remove the garlic and rosemary. 2 Use your hands to roll the cheese into 18 small balls and put in the jar or container. Pour the oil over the top and store in a cool place (see Make Ahead). Serve the goat’s cheese balls with summer veg/ salads and a little oil drizzled over. PER SERVING 300kcals, 24.9g fat (13.1g saturated), 14.6g protein, 3.7g carbs (3.6g sugars), 1g salt, 1.7g fibre
Roasted red peppers with basil Your goat’s cheese starter for 10 out of 10
THE RECIPES Marinated goat’s cheese with garden vegetables
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN, OVEN TIME 45 MIN
Roast the peppers up to a MAKE day ahead and keep with AHEAD their juices in an airtight container in the fridge. Scatter with the basil leaves to serve.
SERVES 6. HANDS ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS 1-3 DAYS MARINATING
Make the goat’s cheese MAKE balls at least 1 day ahead AHEAD (and up to 3 days) so the flavours from the oil have time to infuse. Store in a cool place – or in the fridge if it’s hot. • 1 tsp fennel seeds • 1 tsp coriander seeds • 400ml extra-virgin olive oil • 1 garlic clove, halved • 2 small red chillies, bruised in a pestle and mortar • 2 fresh rosemary sprigs, bruised in a pestle and mortar • 2 fresh bay leaves, torn • 400g soft goat’s cheese (without rind; fridge-cold) • Selection of summer veg/salad such as baby carrots, radishes, cherry tomatoes and little gem lettuce leaves to serve YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 1 litre Kilner jar or storage box 62 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 3 large red peppers • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 6 cherry tomatoes, halved • 3 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves only • 2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar • Handful fresh basil leaves 1 Heat the oven to 220°C/ 200°C fan/ gas 7 and line a roasting tin with non-stick baking paper. Cut each pepper in half lengthways through the stalk, then scoop out and discard the seeds and membrane. Put the peppers cut-side up in the prepared baking tray and divide the garlic, tomatoes, thyme leaves and capers between them. Drizzle with oil, then season with salt and pepper and roast for 30 minutes. 2 Add a drizzle of balsamic vinegar to each pepper and roast for a further 10-15 minutes until caramelised and tender. Remove from the oven and cool before packing up for your picnic with the
pan juices spooned over (see Make Ahead). Or serve while still warm, scattered with fresh basil. PER SERVING 84kcals, 5.8g fat (0.9g saturated), 1g protein, 5.7g carbs (5.2g sugars), no salt, 2.2g fibre
Barley, aubergine and pomegranate salad SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN
Make the salad and dressing MAKE up to the end of step 4 a day AHEAD ahead and store in separate airtight containers in the fridge. • 200g pearl barley • 2-3 tbsp olive oil • 1-2 aubergines (about 500g), thickly sliced • 250g cherry tomatoes, halved • ½ red onion, thinly sliced • 80g pomegranate seeds • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tsp pomegranate molasses • 2 tbsp each fresh mint, parsley and coriander leaves, roughly chopped • Handful rocket leaves 1 Cook the pearl barley according to the packet instructions (about 40 minutes). Drain, refresh under cold water to cool and drain well. Put in a mixing bowl. 2 Heat a griddle or frying pan over a high heat. Put the olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper, then brush all over the aubergine slices. Cook for 3-4 minutes on each side until charred and tender. Set aside until cool, then roughly chop. Add to the pearl barley with the tomatoes, red onion and half the pomegranate seeds. 3 Put the remaining pomegranate seeds in a small sieve. Using a wooden spoon, press out all the juice from the seeds into a small bowl. Discard the seeds in the sieve, then whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil, pomegranate molasses and a little salt and pepper to taste. 4 Just before serving, stir in the herbs and dressing, then serve scattered with the rocket leaves. →
what’s good now.
PACK-AND-GO TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL PICNIC TICK THE RIGHT BOX We’ve suggested you use airtight containers in our Make Ahead tips. This isn’t just to keep things at their best but also to stop leaks and spillages ruining your picnic basket or cool bag. NO STICKY FINGERS Don’t forget to pack napkins and hand wipes: both essential. NO BITES OR STINGS Pack citronella candles (and matches) and insect repellent to keep the bugs at bay. Roasted red peppers with basil
Barley, aubergine and pomegranate salad
NO BREAKAGES Invest in eco-friendly melamine plates and reusuable wine glassstyle plastic glasses. Apart from anything else, drinking chilled fizz or rosé out of a flimsy white plastic cup just doesn’t cut it. Our top recommendation for a one-stop shop is John Lewis, which has baskets, cool bags and blankets galore, plus super-pretty melamine plates from Royal Doulton, Leon and Orla Kiely. For mock glassware, there’s a Plastic Poolside Bubble jug, £14, which looks just like blue glass filled with air bubbles, plus plastic wine glasses (from £4) that are hard to distinguish, looks-wise, from the real thing. See p12 for more of editor Karen’s picnic kit must-haves.
ICE ON THE MOVE If you want to serve ice in your drinks, put the cubes in a Thermos flask to stop them melting or in an airtight container in a cool box. It’s also a good idea to freeze bottles of water and cartons of drinks before you go, which can double up as ice blocks on the way to your destination.
AND DON’T FORGET… • Bin liners to take away rubbish. • A portable speaker – if music’s your thing. • Twinkly fairy lights – for gatherings that roll on into the evening. • A large golf umbrella or two – in case of showers or (joy) too much sunshine. • A sharp knife for cutting and slicing (Kuhn Rikon makes a variety of knives that come with a safety sleeve; kuhnrikon.co.uk).
SUSY ATKINS’ WINE PICKS Whites with crisp acidity such as sauvignon blancs and dry rieslings work well on picnics as they taste refreshing. They’ll match the goat’s cheese, feta bread and red peppers too. An off-dry rosé makes a juicy match for the barley salad and for the richer chicken, make it a peachy viognier.
PER SERVING 254kcals, 10.4g fat (1.5g saturated), 4.8g protein, 33.2g carbs (5.7g sugars), trace salt, 3.9g fibre
Tear and share feta and herb bread SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 40-50 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING
This wonderful bread will MAKE AHEAD keep for a day in an airtight container or will freeze, well-wrapped, for up to 1 month. Defrost at room temperature. Swap parsley and chives for FOOD TEAM’S woody herbs such as TIPS rosemary and thyme. Wrapping the bread in a clean tea towel to cool (step 5) softens the crust, making it easier to pull apart. • 500g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting • 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast • 2 tsp sea salt, plus extra to top • 1 tsp caster sugar • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 275-300ml warm water • 100g feta, crumbled • 30g parmesan, grated • Large handful fresh flatleaf parsley, finely chopped • Handful fresh chives, finely chopped • 1 egg, lightly beaten YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Large baking sheet lined with non-stick baking paper 1 Put the flour in a large mixing bowl and stir in the dried yeast, salt and sugar. Make a well in the middle and gradually work in 3 tbsp of the oil and enough of the warm water to form a soft dough. Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8-10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover with a clean tea towel and leave to rise in a draught-free place for an hour or until doubled in size. 2 Meanwhile, mix the feta, parmesan and herbs in a bowl with the rest of the oil, then cover and chill. 3 Gently knead the dough once or 64 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
twice (this is called knocking back) and roll out on a lightly floured surface to make a 25cm x 35cm rectangle. Sprinkle evenly with the cheese and herb mixture. 4 Roll the dough up from one long side to make a log shape. Cut into 7 thick slices, each around 5cm wide. Arrange 6 slices, cut-side up, in a circle on the prepared baking sheet, roughly 3cm apart, then put the last one in the middle and cover loosely with cling film. Leave to rise (prove), loosely covered with cling film, for 30-40 minutes. 5 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Brush the top with the beaten egg. Bake for 40-50 minutes until risen, golden and cooked through. Cover the top with foil if it starts to brown too quickly. When ready, transfer the tin to a wire rack for 5 minutes to cool. Remove the loaf from the tin and wrap the bread in a clean tea towel as it cools (see tips). PER SERVING (FOR 8) 343kcals, 10.8g fat (3.7g saturated), 11g protein, 49.1g carbs (1.3g sugars), 0.9g salt, 2.8g fibre
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Line a large roasting tin with non-stick baking paper. Divide the chicken legs into drumsticks and thighs by cutting through the joint with a sharp knife. Put in a large mixing bowl. 2 In a small mixing bowl, mix the spices with the olive oil, honey, lemon zest and juice and some salt and pepper. Pour over the chicken and toss well to coat all over. 3 Put the chicken in the prepared roasting tin and roast for 45 minutes until golden and tender, turning halfway through and basting the chicken with pan juices. 4 Put the chicken on a board (or platter if serving straightaway) to cool. Put 2 tablespoons of the pan juices in a bowl with the yogurt, then mix well and season to taste. To serve, drizzle the yogurt over the chicken and scatter with parsley. PER SERVING 207kcals, 11.6g fat (3.7g saturated), 23g protein, 2.5g carbs (2.5g sugars), 0.3g salt, 0.5g fibre
Persian chicken with spiced yogurt
Chocolate swirl meringues, berries and white chocolate sauce
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
TIME 45 MIN, PLUS COOLING
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS COOLING
Roast the chicken and make MAKE AHEAD the yogurt up to 2 days ahead. Store the chicken and yogurt in separate airtight containers in the fridge until ready to serve or pack. Cool the chicken completely before chilling.
Store the baked meringues MAKE AHEAD in an airtight container for up to 1 week. Make the custard up to 2 days ahead, cool, then store in the fridge in an airtight container with a piece of cling film touching the surface.
• 6 free-range skin-on chicken legs • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • 6 cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder • 1 tsp ground turmeric • ½ tsp ground cumin • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 tsp clear honey • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 150ml greek yogurt • Handful fresh parsley, roughly chopped
• 40g dark chocolate, chopped • 4 medium free-range egg whites • 225g caster sugar • 1 tsp white wine vinegar • ½ tsp vanilla extract • 300g mixed summer berries FOR THE SAUCE
• 250ml single cream • 2 medium free-range egg yolks • 2 tsp cornflour • 1 tbsp caster sugar • 75g white chocolate, chopped →
whatâ€™s good now.
Persian chicken with spiced yogurt
what’s good now.
Chocolate swirl meringues, berries and white chocolate sauce
1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/gas 2. Line 2 baking trays with non-stick baking paper. Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally (don’t let the bowl touch the water). Set aside. 2 Put the egg whites in a large, clean mixing bowl and, using an electric hand-held mixer, whisk to stiff peaks. Gradually whisk in the sugar a tablespoon at a time until the mixture is thick and glossy. Beat in the vinegar and vanilla extract. 3 Drizzle the melted chocolate over the egg mixture and carefully stir once to swirl the chocolate through without combining it completely. Spoon the meringue mixture onto the prepared baking trays to make 12 meringue mounds. 4 Transfer the trays to the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 140°C/ 120°C fan/gas 1. Bake for 1 hour or until the meringues are set and pull away easily from the paper. Cool on a wire cooling rack. 5 Meanwhile make the sauce: heat the cream in a small pan until steaming (don’t boil). In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks, cornflour and sugar until smooth, then stir in the hot milk. Return to the pan and stir gently over a low heat until the mixture comes to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring continuously, then remove from the heat. Stir in the white chocolate until melted, then pour into a bowl, cover the surface with cling film and leave to cool completely. Once cool, keep in the fridge. Decant into an airtight container to pack. 6 Serve the meringues with the berries and a drizzle of the white chocolate sauce. PER SERVING 389kcals, 15.8g fat (9g saturated), 6.5g protein, 54.4g carbs (54.3g sugars), 0.2g salt, 2g fibre
A TOP DAY OUT?
Food festival season hits its peak next month with two of the biggest, most established events: Abergavenny in Wales and Aldeburgh on the Suffolk coast. Whether you head west or east, a feast of fun awaits – and this year we’ll be there too, to judge the regional heats of the delicious. Produce Awards, along with the Awards sponsors Fisher & Paykel. Be sure to come and say hello abergavennyfoodfestival.com
ABERGAVENNY FOOD FESTIVAL, MONMOUTHSHIRE, WALES Food lovers from all over the world converge on the market town for what has grown into more than a food festival. It’s also a forum for debate, a place of hands-on experiences – and a rip-roaring party. This year it’s celebrating 20 years too. Here are some of the highlights:
«65 guest speakers including food critic Grace Dent, chefs Zoe Adjonyoh (see p48) and Jack Stein (right; see p14) and sensory psychology expert Charles Spence «Friday and Saturday night music and dancing parties at the castle
«Night market «Lively fringe festival with events showcasing the local food culture «Feasts and tasting workshops «Drinks theatre with cocktail ideas «Open-fire cooking with DJ BBQ and co «Foraging trips
ALDEBURGH FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL, SUFFOLK
SAT 15 & SUN 16 SEPTEMBER «
SAT 29 & SUN 30 SEPTEMBER «
The atmospheric Snape Maltings is the venue for the biggest food festival in the east, with big-name chefs, more than 100 producers offering their wares and lots of family-focused food activities:
«Two stages with top chefs including MasterChef 2018 champ Kenny Tutt (right), Mexican street-food queen Thomasina Miers and Michelin-starred Galton Blackiston «The Adnams Drinks Experience led by beer expert Melissa Cole «Wild Suffolk: learn
about foraging, openfire cooking, fishing and the local wildlife «Hillfarm Family Meadow with toy tractors to ride, pizza making and more «The best of the region – showcasing the hottest young entrepreneurs on the local food scene
The joy of easy baking by Mary Berry She’s a consummate cakemaker: a banisher of soggy bottoms and a technical whizz with bakes of all shapes and flavours. Yet Mary Berry is the first to assure novices that baking needn’t be tricky. These recipes from her new book demonstrate how simple it can be to produce moreishly impressive results
WITH TROPICAL FLAVOURS
Vanilla baked cheesecake, p70
RECIPES MARY BERRY PHOTOGRAPHS GEORGIA GLYNN SMITH FOOD STYLING LISA HARRISON AND ISLA MURRAY STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE 68 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
book of the month.
IT’S A LOVE THING
Chocolate juliette, p70
When I ask why so many people are put off the idea of making puddings and cakes, ‘It’s such a business!’ they tell me. ‘All that creaming of butter and sugar. I never seem to have the butter soft enough. And then the tins have to be lined and everything has to be just so. It’s all right for you,’ they add accusingly. ‘You enjoy it!’ Well, so I do. But they are quite wrong if they think you have to take a whole day off in order to bake successfully. Cakes, tea breads and biscuits can all be made quickly and easily with the minimum of fuss and trouble. There’s no need to bother with fancy tins or piping bags to produce an informal yet professional finish to all kinds of teatime treats. Have fun with your baking and the end results will be even more enjoyable. MARY BERRY deliciousmagazine.co.uk 69
THE CROWDPLEASER PUDDING
Vanilla baked cheesecake SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 40 MIN, PLUS RESTING AND CHILLING
Recipes from Fast Cakes: Easy Bakes in Minutes by Mary Berry (Headline £26). WIN MARY BERRY’S NEW BOOK! We have FIVE copies of this great new book to give away. For a chance of winning a copy, send an email to info@delicious magazine.co.uk telling us which two fruits Mary has used in her vanilla baked cheesecake. See full Ts&Cs on p129
A rich, moist cheesecake. Make up to the end of step 8, MAKE then cover and keep in the AHEAD fridge for up to 24 hours. Complete the recipe to serve. • 75g butter, plus extra for greasing • 8-10 digestive biscuits, crushed (about 125g) • 2 x 280g tubs full-fat cream cheese • 50g plain flour • 2 tsp vanilla extract • 2 large free-range eggs • 100g caster sugar • 150ml double cream • 150ml soured cream • 1 level tbsp icing sugar, sifted • 1 ripe mango, peeled and finely sliced • 1 large passion fruit YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20cm loose-bottomed or springform cake tin
until the cheesecake is just set with a slight wobble in the middle. 8 Loosen the edges, then leave to cool in the tin. When cold, remove from the tin and leave to chill in the fridge (see Make Ahead). 9 Mix the soured cream and icing sugar together in a small bowl, then spread over the cold cheesecake. Arrange the mango and seeds and pulp of the passion fruit over the top of the cheesecake before serving. PER SERVING 564kcals, 42.1g fat (25.7g saturated), 8.9g protein, 36.3g carbs (24.3g sugars), 1g salt, 2g fibre
THE NO-BAKE WINNER
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, PLUS 6 HOURS CHILLING
This chocolate loaf is rich, so serve it in thin slices – and offer pastry forks to your guests. • 200g butter, cubed • 225g Bournville chocolate, broken into pieces • 2 tbsp rum or brandy • 175g Nice biscuits YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Lightly grease the base of the tin and line with non-stick baking paper. 2 Melt the butter in a pan over a gentle heat. Remove from the heat and measure in the crushed biscuits. Mix together very well. 3 Turn into the tin and press flat over the base using a spoon. 4 Measure the cream cheese and flour into another bowl and beat using an electric hand mixer until smooth. Add the vanilla, eggs, sugar and double cream and whisk again until well blended. 5 Pour over the crumb base and bake in the oven for about 30 minutes, or until well risen and just set around the edges. 6 Remove from the oven and rest for 10 minutes to allow the top of the cheesecake to become level and flat. 7 Return to the oven for 10 minutes 70 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 450g (1lb) loaf tin 1 Line the loaf tin with cling film. 2 Measure the butter and chocolate into a heatproof bowl. Put the bowl on top of a pan of boiling water (don’t let the water touch the bowl) and heat gently until the mixture has melted and is smooth and runny. Stir in the rum or brandy. 3 Break the biscuits into 1.25cm (½in) pieces and stir into the chocolate mixture. 4 Pack the chocolate mixture into the tin and smooth the top with the back of a spoon. Leave to chill in the fridge for about 6 hours until set. 5 Turn out onto a serving plate and peel off the cling film. Cut into 8-10 slices to serve. PER SERVING (FOR 10) 353kcals, 25.4g fat (15.1g saturated), 2.5g protein, 26.3g carbs (16.9g sugars), 0.5g salt, 1.2g fibre
THE IMPRESSIVE TRAYBAKE
Coconut meringue slices SERVES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN, PLUS COOLING
These delicious fingers of sponge keep well. For a change, sprinkle the top with finely chopped glacé cherries. This meringue traybake MAKE AHEAD will keep for up to 2 days in an airtight container. • 75g cold butter, cubed • 100g caster sugar • 2 large free-range egg yolks • 2 tbsp whole milk • A few drops vanilla extract • 175g self-raising flour FOR THE TOPPING
• 2 large free-range egg whites • 100g caster sugar • 50g desiccated coconut • Flaked almonds for sprinkling YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 27.5cm x 17.5cm baking tin 1 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/ gas 3 and line the baking tin with non-stick baking paper. 2 Cream the butter and sugar together until soft in a mixing bowl. Beat in the egg yolks, milk and vanilla extract and lastly fold in the flour – the mixture will be quite stiff. Spread it carefully in a smooth layer over the base of the tin. 3 Put the egg whites in a large bowl and whisk using an electric mixer until stiff. Add the sugar a generous dessertspoonful at a time. Fold in the desiccated coconut. Spread over the cake mixture and sprinkle with flaked almonds. 4 Bake in the oven for 35 minutes, by which time the meringue will be firm to the touch and a pale golden brown. 5 Leave to cool in the tin. 6 Cut into 16 slices to serve. PER SLICE 161kcals, 7.2g fat (4.4g saturated), 2.4g protein, 21.2g carbs (12.9g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1g fibre
book of the month.
LAYERS OF JOY
Coconut meringue slices
POSH SARNIE FILLINGS Who can resist a good sandwich? We’ve devised eight new ideas to add a whole new dimension to your lunch or afternoon tea 4 Italian chicken ciabatta rolls
Slice 4 cooking chorizo sausages in half lengthways and fry on both sides until cooked through and crisp. Slice 1 chargrilled red pepper (from a jar), then layer into 4 bread rolls with the chorizo, a handful of rocket and shavings of manchego cheese.
Flatten 4 British free-range chicken mini fillets between 2 sheets of cling film, dust in plain flour, dip in beaten egg, then coat in fresh breadcrumbs. Fry in a pan with olive oil for 5 minutes on each side until cooked through and golden. Fill 4 toasted ciabatta rolls with a fillet each, spread with sun-dried tomato paste, then top with 2-3 chargrilled artichokes (from a tub) and torn mozzarella.
2 Super green rolls Layer 1 thinly sliced ripe avocado and 1 courgette, peeled into ribbons, into 4 bread buns. Top each with a few pickled jalapeños, fresh coriander leaves, a splash of olive oil and some seasoning.
3 Crab mayo, radish and pea rolls
Crush 100g defrosted frozen peas with salt and pepper and a handful of chopped fresh mint leaves. Mix 100g fresh white crabmeat and 3 tbsp mayonnaise, then season with lemon juice and black pepper. Divide the peas and the crab mayo between 2 bread rolls and top with a little salad cress and sliced radishes.
5 Saganaki wraps Spread 2 tortilla wraps with a little greek yogurt, sprinkle with a handful of chopped fresh dill, then divide a 150g pack sustainable cooked peeled prawns between the wraps – make a pile of them in the centres. Sprinkle with 50g crumbled feta, 100g halved cherry tomatoes and ¼ small cucumber, sliced into moons. Roll up and serve.
6 Better BLT Cook 6 slices of maple-cured bacon under a medium grill until crisp. Put 2 sourdough slices on the work surface and divide 200g sliced mixed heritage tomatoes,
1 shredded little gem lettuce, the bacon, a dollop of aïoli and a few fresh basil leaves between them. Top with another 2 sourdough slices.
7 Falafel and aubergine pittas Warm 2 pitta breads in the toaster, then open up and dollop 2-3 tbsp greek yogurt inside. Drizzle generously with tahini loosened with a little lemon juice. Fill each pitta with 3 warmed falafels (we like Waitrose Sweet Potato and Spinach Falafels), slices of grilled marinated aubergines (from a jar) and a few baby spinach leaves.
8 Steak and posh crisp sandwiches Season 1 British sirloin steak and rub with olive oil. Fry in a hot frying pan until medium rare (2-3 minutes each side). Transfer to a board, cover loosely with foil and rest for 5 minutes. Fry 150g sliced mushrooms in the same pan with plenty of butter and black pepper. Slice the steak, then sandwich between 4 buttered wholemeal bread slices with the mushrooms and a handful of crisps (black truffle if you can get them).
WORDS: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: LUIS PERAL
1 Chorizo, rocket and red pepper sarnies
Susy Atkins rounds up the best buys and top summery wines
GR AB A BARGAIN • Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2017, Italy (£4, Tesco) It’s not one to hang on to, but this easy-going, apple-fresh Italian is a canny buy for parties. • Wine Atlas Torrontés 2017, Mendoza, Argentina (£4.98, Asda) Scented with roses and tasting of juicy melons and peaches, this is an off-dry wine
WHAT’S HOT… (OR NOT!) Chilled reds
to partner spicy Thai green curries or Chinese sweet and sour dishes. • El Puente Tempranillo 2017, Central Spain (£4.75, Morrisons) Here’s a likeable Spanish red, reminiscent of rioja with its bright red-berry flavours but at a knockdown price. One for barbecued lamb or a chunk of cheddar.
FRIDAY SPECIAL • Mirabeau Côtes de Provence 2017, France (£10.99, down to £7.99 until 7 August, Waitrose) Snap up this pale, delicate, dry and beautifully scented rosé on offer and sip chilled as the perfect August sundowner. • Tino Pai Sauvignon Blanc 2017, France (£7, Spar) Well priced,
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
SPLASH OUT • Taste the Difference Crémant de Loire Rosé NV, France (£11, Sainsbury’s) Lively fizz, made in the champagne method in the Loire Valley. Dry, with lip-smacking red cherry and strawberry fruit. • Alma Albariño 2015, Rías Baixas, Spain (£17.99, or £15.99 as part of a mixed six, Majestic)
Fans of Spanish whites will love this elegant, pear and tangerinescented albariño; lovely with cod or hake. • The Gum Shiraz 2017, Adelaide Hills, Australia (£15, Marks & Spencer) Finely balanced shiraz from a relatively cool region, majoring on blackcurrants, with a fresh finish.
superior French sauv blanc that’s full of zesty citrus and passion fruit. At just 11.5% ABV, it’s less heady than some. • Finest Marlborough Pinot Noir 2017, New Zealand (£8.50, Tesco) A soft, smooth, deeply fruity red for duck or pork chops, with ripe, squashy black cherries and plums.
on’t be afraid to chill red wines in summer, but do choose light, juicy and young reds – heavy or oaky ones can taste oddly chewy when chilled. Opt for a pinot noir, beaujolais or a light and simple Italian. And don’t over-ice – these reds need only a 45-minute spell in the fridge. Finally, match cooled reds with pâtés, terrines, cured meats, mild cheeses and cold salmon. Taste the Difference Beaujolais Supérieur 2017, France (£7.50, down to £7 until 14 August, Sainsbury’s) is
light and easy-going with strawberry and blackberry notes – ideal for chilling. Barbera d’Asti 2015, Italy (£6.50, Morrisons) has hints
of mulberry and brambles with a chocolatey edge and good acidity. Serve with charcuterie. Extra Special Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2017, Australia (£7.98, Asda) is a little richer,
but has plenty of soft, juicy plums ripe for chilling.
NEW BOOK Whether you call it the snifter, sharpener or sundowner, nothing beats a good aperitif. Kate Hawkings’ witty Aperitif (Quadrille £16.99) covers them all, from Campari to champagne and pastis to pink gin. Cracking cocktail recipes, too. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 73
just for you.
WIN! a classic
8-speed Pashley bike
B PRIZE WORTH
Ride in style on a British design classic
ased on Pashley’s original 1920s design, the classic 8-speed Britannia is designed to bring fun and vintage elegance to trips around town or down winding country lanes. Bursting at the handlebars with all the extras that make taking your bike out a joy, it’s something you’ll cherish. First up, hand-stitched leather grips and a handmade leather sprung seat, which gradually moulds to your shape for a supercomfy ride. Then there are the all-important chain guard and mud guards,as well as a classic easypark prop stand, rear LED light and classic front lamp. Naturally there’s
a wicker basket and ‘ding-dong’ bell. To complete the prize, Pashley is also throwing in a branded tote bag and leather frame guard. Our winner can pick their colour, choosing from Old English White, Oxford Blue, Royal Red, Powder Pink or Duck Egg Blue, in frame sizes 17.5in, 20in or 22in (all come with classic cream tyres). You can have the bike shipped to you if you like, although Pashley would prefer to ship it to your nearest dealer so they can set it up safely for you to ride. • To enter, visit deliciousmagazine. co.uk/promotions.* For Ts&Cs, see p129. For more information, visit pashley.co.uk/bicycles/britannia.php
*CLOSING DATE: 31 AUGUST 2018
Upgrade your wheels with a smart Pashley Britannia bicycle, fully equipped with all the best accessories
COOK THE COVER
...and win a top-notch Anolon copper cookware set COOK THE
FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make the ice cream sandwiches on our cover, take a photograph and share it with us.*
• Kate Harris wins a luxury hotel stay and Luscombe drinks hamper
TO ENTER & FOR Ts&Cs, GO TO deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cookthecover 74 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
*CLOSING DATE: 31 AUGUST 2018
ook the ice cream sandwiches on this month’s cover and you could win a trove of state-of-theart Anolon Nouvelle copper cookware, favoured by professional chefs thanks to its superb heat conduction, durability and performance. Made from hard anodised aluminium with a copper base, these pans are twice as tough as stainless steel and are oven-safe up to 240°C. They also come with a lifetime guarantee. Included are a five-piece saucepan and skillet set, plus a 24cm stockpot and 24cm casserole – years of cooking pleasure await. anolon.co.uk
N O FA D S , N O U N R E A L I ST I C H E A LT H C L A I M S… J U ST 2 2 I N S P I R I N G PA G E S O F H O N E ST, N U T R I T I O U S , G O O D - F O R -YO U R E C I P E S , I N F O A N D I D E A S
MIDWEEK MEALS p76 Satisfying main-course salads packed with hearty, good-for-you ingredients
THE BUDGET RECIPE p80 All-in-one pot Mexican spiced rice
WOW-FACTOR BURGER p91 Yum – and it happens to be vegan, too
SOUP OF THE MONTH p84 Cool, refreshing no-cook gazpacho TURN THE PAGE FOR THE RECIPES → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 75
M I DW E E K L I F E S AV E R S
MAIN MEAL SALADS
Forget limp lettuce and skimpy portions: these salads are packed with flavour and hearty, good-for-you ingredients – properly satisfying, in other words. Try them on a salad naysayer and see if you can’t convince them RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING OLIVIA SPURRELL PHOTOGRAPHS LIZZIE MAYSON STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE
Your guarantee for every recipe in this feature: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients (not including oil) • 30 minutes hands-on time • 650 calories per portion (but most recipes have fewer) • 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar
Coronation chicken salad with toasted naan croutons
eat well for life.
Coronation chicken salad with toasted naan croutons SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
Prepare the coronation chicken MAKE mixture up to a day ahead and AHEAD keep covered in the fridge. Use up any leftovers in sandwiches. If you like, add a pinch each FOOD TEAM’S of garam masala and ground TIPS cinnamon and a small handful of raisins to the mixture in step 1. Put the naan breads in the toaster for 3-4 minutes to avoid turning on the oven. • 5 tbsp mayonnaise • 1½ tsp medium curry powder • 2 cooked free-range chicken breasts, shredded • 80-100g bag watercress • ½ cucumber, halved lengthways and sliced into half-moons • 100g cherry tomatoes, halved • Juice 1 lemon • 1 tbsp mango chutney • 3 tbsp olive oil • 2 naan breads, toasted and torn into large chunks (see tips) • 2 tbsp toasted flaked almonds 1 In a bowl, mix together the mayo, curry powder, chicken and some salt and pepper (see tips). 2 In another bowl, toss together the watercress, cucumber and tomatoes. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, mango chutney and olive oil and season to taste. 3 Toss half the dressing with the salad and arrange on a platter or divide among 4 plates, then add the chicken and naan chunks on the side. Drizzle with the remaining dressing and sprinkle with the toasted almonds. PER SERVING 636kcals, 35.8g fat (4.2g saturated), 33.2g protein, 43.4g carbs (6.6g sugars), 1.1g salt, 3.9g fibre
POTATO SALAD WITH A TWIST
Ham hock, pea and apple potato salad with buttermilk dressing SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 40-45 MIN
Add broad beans and baby gem lettuce and swap the cumin seeds for fennel seeds. If you don’t have time to roast the TIMESAVER potatoes, simmer them for 20 TIP minutes in a pan of salted water (you can omit the garlic cloves).
• 750g charlotte potatoes, halved or quartered if large • 4 garlic cloves (skins on) • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 granny smith apple, finely sliced • 50ml cider vinegar • 1½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted in a dry frying pan • 6 tbsp buttermilk or natural yogurt • 100g bag lamb’s lettuce • 2 x 90g packs pulled ham hock • 150g frozen peas, defrosted 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Toss the potatoes and garlic cloves with the oil in a large roasting tin and season with salt and pepper. Roast
for 40-45 minutes (after 15 minutes, remove the garlic cloves, squeeze the flesh into a small bowl and set aside). 2 Put the apple slices and vinegar in a shallow non-metallic bowl with a pinch of salt, cover with cling film and set aside for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, crush half the cumin seeds in a pestle and mortar, then whisk with the roasted garlic flesh, buttermilk and salt and pepper to taste. 3 When the potatoes are cooked, set them aside to cool slightly for 5 minutes and drain the apples (discard the vinegar). Toss the potatoes and apples in a bowl with the lamb’s lettuce, ham hock and peas. Transfer to a serving platter, drizzle with the dressing, scatter with the remaining cumin seeds and serve. PER SERVING 324kcals, 9.3g fat (2g saturated), 18.1g protein, 38.9g carbs (8.8g sugars), 1g salt, 6.5g fibre → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 77
NEW-LOOK PASTA SALAD
FRESH AND ZINGY
Pasta, beetroot and chard salad with halloumi SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
The salad will keep well in a lidded MAKE plastic container in the fridge for AHEAD 1-2 days. Any leftover salad would make a great take-to-work lunch. Swap the halloumi cheese for NEXT prawns or, if you’re vegan, swap TIME the cheese for a ready-cooked grain pouch. • 350g orecchiette or other small pasta shape • 200g swiss chard • 3 tbsp olive oil • 300g cooked beetroot, cut into wedges • Small bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 200g halloumi, cut into 5mm slices • 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds, toasted in a dry pan 1 Cook the orecchiette according to the pack instructions. Drain and run under cold water until cool, then put in a large bowl and set aside. 2 Meanwhile, separate the chard leaves and stalks. Finely chop the stalks and set aside. Roughly chop half the leaves and finely chop the rest. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a 78 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
frying pan over a medium heat, add the chard stalks and fry for 5-6 minutes until soft. Stir in the roughly chopped chard leaves and cook for another 2-3 minutes until just wilted. 3 Put the finely chopped chard leaves in a pestle and mortar and pound with a pinch of salt, then drizzle in the remaining 2 tbsp olive oil and combine to a paste. 4 Toss the cooked chard leaves and stalks, chard paste, beetroot wedges, dill and lemon zest and juice with the pasta. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then transfer to a serving platter or bowl. 5 In a clean pan, fry the halloumi slices for 1-2 minutes on each side until golden. Arrange over the salad, then sprinkle over the pumpkin seeds and serve. PER SERVING 636kcals, 24.1g fat (10g saturated), 24.7g protein, 76.9g carbs (8.6g sugars), 1.7g salt, 6.6g fibre
Vietnamese prawn, quinoa and papaya salad with peanuts SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Try swapping the prawns for cooked chicken, pork or beef. If you can get hold of unripe green papaya, use it in this salad instead of ripe orange papaya, peeled and cut into strips.
• 2 x 250g packs ready-cooked red and white quinoa • 400g sustainable cooked, peeled king prawns • 300g beansprouts • 1 ripe papaya, peeled, seeds scooped out, sliced • 1 large bunch fresh coriander, roughly chopped • 1 large bunch fresh mint, leaves picked and chopped • 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil • Grated zest and juice 1 lime, plus wedges to serve • 1 red chilli, finely chopped • 50g roasted salted peanuts, lightly crushed in a pestle and mortar 1 In a large serving bowl, toss together the quinoa, prawns, beansprouts, papaya, coriander and mint. 2 In a small bowl, whisk together the sesame oil, lime zest and juice, chilli and some salt and pepper. Toss with the salad, then scatter over the peanuts and serve with lime wedges for squeezing. PER SERVING 503kcals, 21g fat (2.6g saturated), 30.3g protein, 43.5g carbs (9.2g sugars), 1.8g salt, 9.5g fibre
NEXT MONTH Five meals under £5 a head
eat well for life.
Thai steak salad with jasmine rice, sugar snaps and toasted coconut SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
Marinate the steak and MAKE roast the aubergine up AHEAD to 1 day ahead. Swap steak for sliced chicken NEXT breast. Pound with a rolling TIME pin first to tenderise, so the chicken will cook more quickly. • 2 British beef steaks (we used sirloin, but rump also works well) • 3 tbsp Thai red curry paste (we used the Thai Taste brand) • 1 large aubergine, cut into chunks • 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying • 3 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 tbsp fish sauce • 2 tsp light brown soft sugar • 300g sugar snap peas, halved lengthways • 2 x 250g packs ready-cooked jasmine rice • 1 red chilli, sliced • 25g fresh Thai (or regular) basil • 2 tbsp toasted coconut flakes 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Put the steaks on a plate and rub all over with the curry paste. Cover with cling film and set aside. 2 Toss the aubergine with the olive oil and some salt in a roasting tin. Roast for 20-25 minutes until tender and golden, then transfer to a mixing bowl. 3 Meanwhile make the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the vegetable oil, fish sauce and sugar. 4 Heat a griddle pan to high and brush the steaks with a little oil. Fry for 2 minutes on each side for medium-rare, or longer if you prefer your meat well done. Rest on a board for 5 minutes. 5 Add the sugar snaps, rice, chilli and basil to the bowl with the aubergines and toss to coat. Drizzle over most of the dressing and toss again. Transfer the rice mix to a platter, thinly slice the steaks and arrange on top. Drizzle over any remaining dressing and sprinkle with the coconut flakes. PER SERVING 575kcals, 29.5g fat (8g saturated), 31.8g protein, 41.8g carbs (8.4g sugars), 1.6g salt, 7.4g fibre
eat well for life .
THE BUDGET RECIPE FEED 4 FOR LESS THAN £4.50
Mexican spiced rice SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 10-12 MIN, PLUS RESTING
If you have leftover roast meat from Sunday lunch, stir it into the rice dish and heat through. If you’re feeding more people, serve as a side for pork sausages. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS
• 2 tbsp light olive oil • 2 red onions, roughly chopped • 2 carrots, sliced • 300g basmati rice, well rinsed under cold running water
• 1-2 tbsp adobo/chipotle chilli paste • 2 tbsp raisins • 400g can cherry tomatoes • 200g green beans, halved • Small bunch fresh coriander or parsley, roughly chopped • Grated zest and juice 1 lime • 100g feta cheese, crumbled 1 Heat the olive oil in a 26cm shallow casserole or deep pan with a lid over a medium heat. Fry the onions for 5 minutes or until softening and turning golden. Add the carrots and cook for 5 minutes more. 2 Add the rice and chilli paste, mix
well and cook for 1 minute, then add the raisins and cherry tomatoes. Fill the can with cold water and pour it over the rice. Bring to the boil, then add the green beans, cover and reduce the heat. Simmer for 10-12 minutes or until the rice is cooked through. Take off the heat and leave to rest with the lid on for 5 minutes. 3 To serve, stir in the herbs, lime zest and juice, and scatter over the feta. Check the seasoning, then serve. PER SERVING 519kcals, 12.8g fat (4.7g saturated), 14.3g protein, 82g carbs (19.9g sugars), 0.8g salt, 9.2g fibre
RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: LUIS PERAL
An all-in-one veggie dish that shows just how flavoursome a thrifty idea can be
eat well for life.
THE 5:2 RECIPE
Get your oily fish quota in this quick, zingy dish, which savvily uses frozen fish
Grilled mackerel with tomato, basil and preserved lemon salad SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
UNDER 250 CALORIES AND ALL YOUR VITAMIN D
The preserved lemon flesh (pulp) can taste bitter and be overpowering. To remove it, scrape off with a knife and use only the lemon skin. FOOD TEAM’S TIP
RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG
• 1 sustainable frozen mackerel fillet (about 85g) • Large pinch ground cumin • Large pinch ground coriander • 1 small garlic clove, halved • 7 cherry tomatoes, halved • Handful small fresh basil leaves • ¼ preserved lemon, thinly sliced (see tip) • Finely grated zest and juice ½ lemon, plus a lemon wedge to serve (optional) • Large handful watercress, rocket and spinach salad leaves 1 Heat the grill to medium-high and line a baking tray with foil. Put the frozen mackerel fillet on the tray, skin-side down. Rub all over with the ground spices and season with salt and pepper. Grill for 4-5 minutes, then turn and grill for 4-5 minutes more until cooked through and the skin is crisp. 2 Meanwhile, run the cut sides of the garlic around the inside of a shallow serving bowl, then discard. Add the tomatoes, basil, preserved lemon, grated lemon zest and juice to the bowl, along with the salad leaves and a little salt and pepper. Mix well, then serve the mackerel with the salad and the lemon wedge for squeezing, if you like. PER SERVING 248kcals, 16g fat (3.4g saturated), 18.8g protein, 5.7g carbs (2.9g sugars), 0.4g salt, 2.4g fibre
ON NON-FASTING DAYS...
By nutritionist Amanda Ursell Adding 200g boiled new potatoes brings the calories up to 380 per serving and raises the vitamin C from 30mg to 44mg per serving, which is over half your recommended intake for the day. The potatoes also boost fibre content to 6g, or a fifth of your daily 30g target. Potatoes have a medium glycaemic index which, in combination with protein in the mackerel, will give an overall slow rise in blood sugar after eating. One serving, with or without the potatoes, gives you 136 per cent of your vitamin D. Amanda is the nutrition editor of our sister magazine Healthy Food Guide
THE BATCH-COOK RECIPE
This cook-once, eat-twice recipe makes the most of ripe summer veg. It’s the ultimate timesaver for busy weeknights
FREEZE HALF FOR LATER
The master recipe Roasted summer ratatouille SERVES 8 (2 MEALS FOR 4). HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN
Once cooked and cooled, MAKE store in an airtight container AHEAD in the fridge for up to 2 days. If you’re not vegan, top with FOOD TEAM’S 100g crumbled feta for the TIP last 10 minutes of cooking. • 3 red onions, finely sliced • 1 aubergine, cut into small chunks • 1 each yellow and orange peppers, deseeded and thickly sliced
• 2 courgettes, roughly chopped • 1 large fennel bulb, sliced through the root into wedges • 4 tbsp olive oil • 180g radishes, halved if large • 500g cherry tomatoes on the vine • 4 garlic cloves, crushed • 1 tbsp sherry vinegar • Large handful fresh basil and flatleaf parsley leaves, chopped 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Put the onions, aubergine, peppers, courgettes and fennel into 1 large or 2 smaller roasting tins. Drizzle with half the olive oil, season
generously with salt and pepper, then toss to coat. Roast for 20 minutes. 2 Add the radishes, tomatoes, garlic and sherry vinegar. Toss to coat, then roast for 15-20 minutes more until the vegetables are tender and the tomatoes are beginning to burst. 3 Drizzle with the remaining olive oil, scatter over the herbs and serve half with fresh crusty bread or pasta and chill or freeze the rest (see Make Ahead or How to Freeze, opposite). PER SERVING (FOR 4) 133kcals, 6.5g fat (1g saturated), 3.7g protein, 11.5g carbs (10g sugars), 0.1g salt, 6.8g fibre
eat well for life.
Use the second half of the batch to makeÉ Shakshuka SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
If you’re feeling really hungry poach or fry an extra egg per person and serve with herby yogurt. FOOD TEAM’S TIP
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHS: TARA FISHER. STYLING: WEI TANG
• 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp coriander seeds • ½ tsp fennel seeds • Pinch chipotle chilli flakes • 400g tin chopped tomatoes • ½ batch roasted summer ratatouille, left • 4 large free-range eggs • Handful mixed fresh herbs (we used parsley, mint and coriander), coarsely chopped • Crusty bread to serve
to a simmer. Make 4 indents in the tomato mixture with a large spoon and crack an egg into each one. Cover with the lid and cook for 8-10 minutes until the egg whites have set but the yolks are still runny. 3 Scatter over the chopped herbs and serve with crusty bread for a light supper or brunch. PER SERVING 284kcals, 16.3g fat (3.2g saturated), 14.4g protein, 15.4g carbs (13.7g sugars), 0.4g salt, 8.5g fibre
HOW TO FREEZE Allow the ratatouille to cool completely in the tin(s), transfer to food bags or containers and freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge overnight and eat cold, reheat to piping hot before serving or use to make our shakshuka recipe.
1 Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based frying pan or shallow casserole with a lid and fry the spice seeds and chilli flakes until fragrant. Add the tomatoes, rinse out the tin with 100ml water and add to the pan. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about 10 minutes until reduced and thickened. 2 Stir in the roasted summer ratatouille and bring back
eat well for life.
SOUP OF THE MONTH
Make it ahead, then serve chilled on a hot day with a cool glass of dry sherry on the side Gazpacho SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 4 HOURS CHILLING
Make 2-3 days ahead and MAKE AHEAD keep covered in the fridge. The flavour will become stronger and punchier. FOOD This is great for using up TEAM’S past-their-best tomatoes. TIP If you’re pushing the soup through a sieve, save the pulp to top a toasted baguette, then drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt for a tasty snack.
EASY NO-COOK RECIPE
1 Whizz the tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, garlic, bread, sherry, vinegar and oil in a blender or food processor with salt and black pepper until combined. You can stop at this stage, but the soup won’t be completely smooth. For a smoother finish, push through a fine mesh sieve into a jug, reserving the pulp (see tip). Cover and chill for at least 4 hours (see Make Ahead). 2 Serve the soup in bowls, topped with the basil leaves, sliced cherry tomatoes, capers, diced cucumber and an extra drizzle of oil. PER SERVING 152kcals, 6.3g fat (0.9g saturated), 3.3g protein, 15.4g carbs (9.7g sugars), 0.1g salt, 4.4g fibre 84 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG
• 800g ripe tomatoes, chopped • ½ cucumber, roughly chopped, plus a handful diced pieces to serve • 2 red peppers, deseeded and roughly chopped • 2 garlic cloves • 50-60g day-old crusty white bread or sourdough • Glug dry sherry • 1 tbsp sherry vinegar • Glug extra-virgin olive oil, plus a drizzle to serve • Handful each fresh basil leaves, sliced cherry tomatoes and drained capers to serve
eat well for life.
THE FRIDAY NIGHT SUPPER
Take the hot dog up a notch with this winning combination of spiced crispy onions and sauerkraut
Hot dogs with sauerkraut and crispy fried onions SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
Fry the onions 1-2 days MAKE ahead and chill in an AHEAD airtight container.
1 Heat the grill to medium-high and cook the sausages, turning regularly, for 15-20 minutes until browned and cooked through. 2 Meanwhile, pour 1cm olive oil in a deep frying pan over a medium-high heat. Toss the onion in a mixing bowl with the plain flour and salt and
pepper. Put all the spice seeds in the frying pan with the oil and fry until they start to pop and colour, then add the floured onions to the pan and fry, stirring from time to time, for 15 minutes until deep brown and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper. 3 Cut the hot dog rolls lengthways almost all the way through, then toast under the grill for a few minutes. Fill with sauerkraut and 2 sausages each. Pile on the crispy onions (and any spice seeds), then serve with salad, cornichons and dijon mustard. PER SERVING 656kcals, 41g fat (12.7g saturated), 31.6g protein, 38.1g carbs (10.3g sugars), 2.3g salt, 3.9g fibre
QUICKER THAN A TAKEAWAY
RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS
• 4 British outdoor-reared pork sausages • Olive oil for frying • 1 red onion, sliced into rings • 2 tbsp plain flour
• 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds • 1 tsp fennel seeds • 1 tsp caraway seeds • 2 brioche hot dog rolls • 4 tbsp readymade sauerkraut from a jar (we used RAW Fresh Organic Sauerkraut from Ocado) • Green salad leaves, cornichons and dijon mustard to serve
TAKE A PACK OF…
CHERRY TOMATOES Use these juicy gems to create four speedy but special recipes. Dare we suggest weeknights will never be the same again?
Bloody mary panzanella SERVES 4 AS A SIDE SALAD. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
The vodka gives the dressing an extra kick and mimics the flavour of a bloody mary, but you can leave it out. Use a vegetarian Worcestershire sauce for veggies.
Heat 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and fry 150g ciabatta, torn into chunks, with a sprinkle of sea salt flakes until just starting to crisp. Remove from the heat. In a bowl, mix together 250g halved cherry tomatoes, 2 sliced celery sticks and 2 tbsp drained capers. In another small bowl, whisk together 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tbsp vodka (optional), 1 tsp red wine vinegar, ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce, ¼ tsp Tabasco sauce, ¼ tsp celery salt and some cracked black pepper. Pour over the tomato mixture, then stir in the toasted ciabatta and stir to combine. Serve with lemon wedges and a scattering of fresh basil leaves. PER SERVING 225kcals, 12.8g fat (1.9g saturated), 5g protein, 21.3g carbs (3.5g sugars), 0.9g salt, 2.3g fibre
15-MINUTE SUPER SIDE DISH
W H AT T O B U Y...
For our recipes we used a 250g pack of vine-ripened cherry tomatoes
Cheesy quesadillas with tomato, red pepper and avocado salsa SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT SNACK. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
FOOD TEAM’S TIP
Try the salsa served spooned over a bowlful of nachos, or with a beef burger or some grilled chicken.
Mix 2 chopped ripe avocados, 250g chopped cherry tomatoes, 1 bunch chopped fresh coriander, 1 sliced shallot, the finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime, 1 tbsp olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper in a bowl. In another bowl, mix together 100g grated cheddar, 50g sliced roasted red peppers, ½ tsp chipotle chilli flakes and some black pepper. Divide the mixture between 2 small corn tortillas and top with 2 more small corn tortillas. Heat a dry frying pan over a medium heat and toast the quesadillas for 2 minutes on each side until golden, crisp and oozy. Cut the quesadillas into wedges and serve with the salsa and soured cream. PER SERVING 421kcals, 28.7g fat (9.3g saturated), 11.5g protein, 26.6g carbs (3.9g sugars), 0.9g salt, 5.4g fibre
RECIPES: OLIVIA SPURRELL. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE WHITAKER. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
FOOD TEAM’S TIPS
eat well for life.
Chorizo, halloumi and tomato traybake SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, GRILL TIME 15 MIN
FOOD TEAM’S TIP
Serve the traybake with a pile of flatbreads or some crusty bread for a more filling meal.
EASY ONE-PAN TRAYBAKE
Heat the grill to high. Cut 120g halloumi into 0.5cm slices and toss in a bowl with 2 tsp ancho chilli paste and 2 tbsp olive oil until well coated. Leave to marinate. On a baking tray, toss together 1 red onion, sliced into 12 wedges, 250g cherry tomatoes and 120g padrón peppers, then scatter over 100g sliced cooking chorizo. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt flakes. Grill on high for 10 minutes, then add a 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed, and the halloumi to the tray (reserve the marinade). Grill for a further 5 minutes, then remove from the oven. Finely grate the zest of ½ lemon and whisk with the juice of ½ lemon into the reserved marinade. Drizzle over the traybake to serve. PER SERVING 397kcals, 26.1g fat (9.5g saturated), 17.9g protein, 19.5g carbs (6g sugars), 1.9g salt, 6.1g fibre
HEARTY ASIAN-STYLE SALAD
Sesame tuna steaks with tomato noodle salad and crispy fried chilli and ginger SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
FOOD TEAM’S TIP
For a vegetarian alternative, swap tuna for a block of firm tofu and fry until golden on all sides, then slice and serve as you would the tuna.
Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, then gently fry 1 sliced red chilli, 2 sliced garlic cloves and a 5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into matchsticks, until crisp. Remove and set aside. Fry a bunch of sliced spring onions in the same pan until golden, then remove and set aside. Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook 200g green beans for 2 minutes, then add 2 vermicelli noodle nests and cook for a further 1-2 minutes until al dente. Drain both and refresh in cold water. Mix 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil, 1 tsp soy sauce and 1 tsp lime juice in a large bowl. Toss through the noodles and green beans with 250g sliced cherry tomatoes and the spring onions. Put 100g sesame seeds on a plate and press 4 x 150g yellowfin tuna steaks (or see tip) on top to coat all over. Heat a glug of olive oil in a frying pan over a high heat and cook the steaks for 1 minute on each side. Slice and serve with the noodle salad and crispy aromatics. PER SERVING 567kcals, 24.8g fat (3.9g saturated), 49.4g protein, 33.2g carbs (6.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, 6.9g fibre deliciousmagazine.co.uk 87
THE SANE VIEW
Food that makes you look younger: fact or fiction? Throw away that expensive facial serum: glowing skin could be yours just by heading to the kitchen… Really? Berries and citrus fruit are ‘proven complexion perfecters’, and for stronger, glossier hair, an avocado a day will ‘help the follicles work more efficiently’. If only life, ageless beauty (and health) were that simple, says a sceptical Sue Quinn
ealth and wellness websites are brimming with promises like these; that you can ‘get the glow’ by incorporating various ‘superfoods’ into your diet. Of course, what you eat and your appearance are connected: a well-balanced diet will boost your chances of looking healthy. But claims that particular foods or diets can be magic bullets in your beauty arsenal are wrong and sometimes dangerous, according to dermatologists. “I often hear that what you put in your mouth is going to have an effect on your skin, but the human body just doesn’t work that way,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible (Penguin Life £14.99). “Food has to pass through the gut and some of it gets to our skin and some of it doesn’t. Diet is just a
small part of the puzzle, along with sleep, alcohol, smoking, skincare and prescription treatments.” Dr Mahto says there’s “a small amount of evidence” that some foods might have a role to play in managing chronic skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and rosacea. For example, foods with anti-inflammatory properties, particularly those rich in omega 3 fats such as oily fish, seeds and nuts, might help some people when eaten as part of a wider treatment programme. It’s a different story, however, for people who aren’t nutritionally deficient. Foods rich in vitamin C regularly appear on lists of those that are claimed to be ‘skin-perfecting’. This probably stems from the fact that our bodies need vitamin C to produce collagen, the protein that gives skin its structure. But healthy people who aren’t deficient have nothing to gain by eating copious amounts of it. “Eating lots of vitamin C isn’t going to give you
loads of collagen because the body takes what it needs, and you pee out the rest,” Dr Mahto says. The same applies to foods rich in vitamin A. While this nutrient can play a role in treating acne, the science is complex: vitamin A takes different forms and doses need to be high to be effective. “You would never be able to get enough of it in your diet to treat acne effectively.”
THE COLLAGEN CONUNDRUM Sadly, we can’t change the fact that collagen production decreases with age. After our mid-20s, levels fall by about 1 per cent per year and, for women, more rapidly after the menopause, resulting in fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin. Dr Mahto says apart from including plenty of protein in your diet, there is nothing you can eat to encourage your body to produce more collagen. And she’s highly sceptical of drinks that claim to do this. You can, however, reduce the risk of damaging your collagen
EAT YOUR WAY TO HEALTHY SKIN A healthy diet should include the following foods to boost your chances of having healthy skin, according to Dr Anjali Mahto • Oily fish: salmon, mackerel and herring • Fruit and vegetables: citrus fruits, tomatoes, sweet potato, dark leafy greens and yellow vegetables, spinach and avocado • Nuts and seeds: sunflower seeds and walnuts
by cutting back on sugary foods, including fruit, if you eat excessive amounts. Dr Mahto explains that when we eat lots of sweet foods, the sugar molecules bind to collagen, leading to an accumulation of proteins called advanced glycation end-products. These prevent collagen functioning properly. “I’m not saying cut out sugar altogether, but there’s evidence that sugar will cause accelerated ageing of your skin,” Dr Mahto says. She adds that ‘sugar’ includes so-called unrefined syrups such as honey and agave, as well as fruit.
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES.
AND WHAT ABOUT ACNE? The connection between chocolate and acne has been hotly debated for decades. Until the 1960s, doctors believed chocolate caused spots, but an influential 1969 study appeared to debunk the link. Now, scientists have changed their minds again. “There is emerging evidence that sugar and foods with a high glycaemic index (those that raise blood glucose levels quickly) can drive acne in a small select group of people,” Dr Mahto says. Again, she doesn’t advise cutting out sugar completely. “But if you eat a lot of sugar, think about cutting down.” Dr Mahto says the links between dairy and acne are weaker than those for sugar, so she advises against excluding foods like milk, cheese and yogurt from your diet unless advised by a doctor to do so. “I have a group of patients who are gluten free and dairy free and sugar free and you wonder what they’re eating,” Dr Mahto says. “I tell them it’s not going to fix their skin. I always find it slightly worrying in a condition that’s already causing anxiety – and we know that people with acne are more likely to have mental health issues – that they’re then trying to cut everything out of their diet. It’s dangerous territory.”
Dr Sharon Wong, consultant dermatologist and hair specialist at London Bridge Hospital. It’s a particular problem among young women with heavy periods and increasing numbers of vegans and vegetarians, she says. It’s important to have blood tests to check for deficiencies; if your levels are low (ferritin levels indicate whether iron stores are adequate and should be above 70 for healthy hair), boosting your dietary intake may help. But people with no deficiencies won’t benefit from eating more of a particular nutrient. “It’s important to remember that deficiencies can cause problems, but overconsuming nutrients won’t make your hair healthier and may cause problems,” Dr Wong says. “It’s not one nutrient or ‘superfood’ that creates healthy hair. General healthy eating is the gold standard; you need a well rounded, balanced diet.” “The glossy, shiny manes of celebrities have more to do with the products they put on their hair than what they eat,” Dr Wong says. “Hair is shiny because of its light-reflecting properties, which can be enhanced with oils and conditioners. These smooth out the cuticles that form the protective layer of each hair, making it easier to reflect the light. A daily avocado smoothie won’t produce the same effect,” she says. Dr Wong says there is some evidence that people with weak
TRUE OR FALSE? Bingeing on foods rich in vitamin C will lead to more beautiful skin ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
Eliminating dairy from your diet (without medical advice) is worth trying to treat acne ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
Cutting back on sugary foods such as honey, syrups & fruit may reduce the risk of collagen damage ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
Eating avocado leads to glossier hair ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
or brittle nails might benefit from boosting their intake of biotin (vitamin B7), which encourages the production of protein for nail growth. Good sources are eggs, raw almonds, cheese and green leafy veg.
THE BOTTOM LINE There’s no robust scientific evidence that eating lots of particular nutrients will improve the appearance of your hair, skin or nails – unless you have a deficiency. Likewise, eliminating certain foods from your diet without seeking medical advice may cause health problems. ‘Beauty foods’ is a marketing term; a well-balanced healthy diet is the ultimate key for looking your best.
Deficiencies can cause problems, but overconsuming nutrients may also cause problems
GET THE GLOSS? Thinning hair can be caused by nutritional deficiencies, particularly iron, vitamin D and zinc, says deliciousmagazine.co.uk 89
eat well for life.
THE WOW-FACTOR VEGGIE BURGER A quick miso marinade gives an umami-rich flavour to aubergine ‘steaks’ to replace traditional beef in this meat-free burger – and it happens to be vegan Miso and maple aubergine ‘steak’ burger SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN
We griddled the aubergine
THE FLAVOUR first to maximise flavour, PUNCH
RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: WEI TANG
while the miso marinade adds a savoury umami dimension that leaves you feeling satisfied. Serve the aubergine on half FOOD TEAM’S a bun if you want to reduce TIPS the calorie content. Save any offcuts of aubergine and cook and use in pasta sauces or rice dishes.
3cm-thick strips (you’ll have leftovers – see tips) and coat thoroughly in the marinade. 2 Heat a griddle pan over a mediumhigh heat. Toss the onions in the oil, then griddle for 3 minutes on each side. Put on a large baking sheet, then transfer to the oven to cook for 20 minutes while you char the aubergine slices. 3 Turn the heat under the griddle pan to medium, then griddle the aubergine slices for 5 minutes on each side. Add to the tray with the onions for the last 10 minutes, so
VEGAN MEAL FOR TWO
they’re cooked through and tender. 4 Meanwhile, mix the mayonnaise and half the lime zest. If you like, warm the burger buns in the oven. Spread a little of the mayo mixture on the bottom half of each bun, drizzle with sriracha, then top with the aubergine steaks, onions, salad and peanuts (if using). Finish the burger with a squeeze of lime juice and the top half of the bun (see tips). PER SERVING 440kcals, 17.2g fat (1.8g saturated), 10.6g protein, 55.6g carbs (21.9g sugars), 3.3g salt, 10.3g fibre
• 2 tbsp white miso paste (from Waitrose, Ocado and Amazon) • 1 tbsp maple syrup • 1 tbsp dark soy sauce • 1 large aubergine • 2 medium onions, cut into wedges • 1-2 tsp olive oil • 2 tbsp vegan mayonnaise (see p113) • Grated zest and juice ½ lime • 1 tbsp sriracha sauce • 2 burger buns, split in half • Salad (we used an Asian herb/salad mix but you could use a combination of coriander and pea shoots) and a few salted peanuts (optional) to serve 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/ 160°C fan/gas 4. Mix the miso paste, maple syrup and soy in a shallow bowl to make a marinade. Slice the aubergine lengthways into deliciousmagazine.co.uk 91
V IS FOR VEGETARIAN
LETâ€™S HEAR IT FOR THE
VEGGIE RENAISSANCE RECIPES, PHOTOGRAPHS AND FOOD STYLING NINA OLSSON
Summer rolls with satay dip
eat well for life.
Summer rolls with satay dip MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN
I remember taking my first bite of summer roll in a Vietnamese restaurant; it was a revelation. I couldn’t fathom how the taste could be so good when there was so little apparent added flavouring. I kept asking my food writer friend who ordered the rolls for me if he was sure there wasn’t a hidden ingredient somewhere. Soon after I bought rice papers and made my own rolls at home, stunned that they proved so easy to prepare and had nothing more to them that made them taste so amazing. You can prepare the satay MAKE dipping sauce a day before AHEAD serving. Cover tightly and keep in the fridge. The rolls are best when NINA’S they’re freshly made, so TIPS prepare them just before guests arrive or do the prep and let your guests make their own. Fresh coriander is the key ingredient that gives these rolls their heavenly light, clean, aromatic taste, so don’t skip it. I love the peanut dipping sauce used here, but summer rolls are also delicious dipped into Japanese soy sauce (or tamari sauce for a wheat-free alternative) or a mix of toasted sesame oil and rice vinegar. A julienne peeler (available FOOD TEAM’S from oxouk.com) is a quick TIP and easy way to prepare thin strips of carrot (juliennes). FOR THE SATAY PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE
• 3 tbsp good-quality smooth peanut butter • 2 tbsp soy or tamari sauce • 1 tbsp fresh lime juice • 1 tsp grated fresh ginger • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 1 tsp agave syrup or coconut sugar • ¼ tsp sriracha sauce (or a little more if you like it more spicy)
Now is an exciting time to be a vegetarian. The art of cooking vegetables is undergoing a renaissance, and there’s an army of creative chefs, authors and bloggers making a new style of vegetarianism happen. In my opinion, talking about vegetables as a meat substitute feels outdated today. It’s not about ‘if’ we should eat plantbased today, but ‘how’. My answer in my new book, Feasts of Veg, is to focus on flavour and take inspiration from world kitchens, to use techniques that can utilise the many textures and flavours of veg. The creative possibilities are vast. These recipes are all about sharing good food – one of the best things NINA OLSSON to do in life.
FOR THE SUMMER ROLLS
• 1 pack spring roll or rice paper wrappers (we used Blue Dragon Spring Roll Wrappers) • 2 medium carrots, julienned (cut into thin strips; see food team’s tip) • Handful mixed salad leaves (such as spinach and radicchio), torn or shredded • 2 handfuls finely shredded red cabbage • 1 green pepper, cut into strips • 1 small chioggia/candy-striped or regular beetroot (uncooked), peeled and sliced into very thin rounds • 1 small cucumber, cut into matchsticks • 1 medium avocado, stoned, peeled and thinly sliced • 4 spring onions, chopped • Small handful beansprouts • Small handful fresh coriander leaves (see Nina’s tips) 1 Mix together all the ingredients for the satay peanut dipping sauce in a bowl (see Make Ahead). 2 Fill a bowl with lukewarm water. Dip a rice paper wrapper in the water for 4-5 seconds. Transfer the wrapper to a work surface or
Nina is Swedish but now lives in Amsterdam working as a recipe developer, photographer, stylist and art director. She’s the author of the vegetarian food blog NourishAtelier.com. Feasts of Veg is her second cookbook. Her first was called Bowls of Goodness.
chopping board and wait a few seconds before putting some of the sliced salad ingredients in the centre of it. Carefully fold one side of the now softened wrapper over the filling snugly, then fold over the bottom and top edges and roll up tightly. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling, then serve with the satay peanut dipping sauce. PER ROLL 70kcals, 4.6g fat (1g saturated), 2g protein, 4g carbs (3.4g sugars), 0.4g salt, 2.2g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Echo the lime juice flavour in the dish with a dry Australian or New Zealand riesling – or a simple lime cordial.
Okonomiyaki (Japanese savoury pancake) MAKES 4. SERVES 4 AS A FILLING STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN
Okonomiyaki translates from the Japanese literally as ‘how you want it grilled’. You can easily customise the recipe to your liking by choosing different finely grated vegetables such as potato, beetroot, courgette and radishes. → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93
You can buy Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise and ready-made furikake spice mix (a rice seasoning) from Asian food stores and some supermarkets or online but be aware that furikake often contains dried tuna flakes, so vegetarians should check the pack. FOOD The vegetables need to be TEAM’S finely shredded here – TIPS radicchio is easy to shred with a knife but if using firmer veg as suggested in Nina’s introduction, use a mandoline or fine slicing attachment on a food processor. You can buy dulse (a type of seaweed) and vegetarian dashi powder online from souschef.co.uk. NINA’S TIP
• 400g radicchio, very finely shredded (see food team’s tips), plus extra to garnish • 2 spring onions, thinly sliced • 2 tbsp chopped pickled ginger • 50ml vegetarian dashi (see food team’s tips) or water
Okonomiyaki (Japanese savoury pancake), p93
• 4 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten • 250g plain flour • 1 tsp baking powder • Sesame or vegetable oil for frying • Kewpie or other mayonnaise, furikake and toasted dulse to serve (optional, see tips) FOR THE OKONOMIYAKI SAUCE
• 50ml Henderson’s Relish • 50ml tomato ketchup • 50ml soy or tamari sauce 1 For the pancakes, put the radicchio, spring onions, ginger, dashi or water and beaten eggs in a large bowl and mix together until the vegetables are evenly coated with the egg. Sprinkle the flour and baking powder over the vegetable mixture, then mix together, seasoning with a little salt. 2 Heat a frying pan (one with a lid) to a medium-high heat – the pancakes can easily burn, so take care the pan doesn’t get too hot. Drizzle the base of the pan with oil, then spoon in a quarter of the pancake mixture and swirl the pan to make a pancake about 15cm in diameter. Fry for about a minute until it begins to firm. Cover the pan with the lid and continue cooking for 1-2 minutes until the underside is nicely browned. To flip the pancake, carefully slide the pancake onto a baking sheet or plate, browned-side down, then invert back into the pan, browned-side up. Fry for 1-2 minutes until the other side is golden brown, then slide onto a warmed plate. Repeat the process with the remaining pancake mixture. 3 Combine the ingredients for the okonomiyaki sauce in a small bowl. Serve the pancakes warm with the sauce, mayonnaise, furikake and toasted dulse, if you like. PER SERVING 445kcals, 14.8g fat (2.4g saturated), 16.2g protein, 59.5g carbs (9.8g sugars), 3g salt, 4.4g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE The sweet-sour sauce calls for a tangy, zesty New World white such as Chilean sauvignon blanc.
Roasted ragù and pappardelle SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN TIME 50-60 MIN
This family-style pasta dish features roasted mushrooms, tomatoes and fennel in a scrumptious ragù, although you can easily vary the vegetables according to your taste or what’s in season. Thick pappardelle ribbons give the dish a rustic quality and soak up the sauce for a mouthwatering experience. Roast the vegetables up to MAKE 48 hours in advance and AHEAD keep in an airtight container or food bag in the fridge until needed. Rawmesan is a raw, vegan, KNOWsoy-free and gluten-free HOW alternative to parmesan made with walnuts, sunflower seeds, nutritional yeast and salt. Available from planetorganic.com Sprinkle over crispy NINA’S breadcrumbs at the end TIP for extra crunch. • Good-quality olive oil for drizzling • 400g dried pappardelle or pasta of your choice • 100ml dry white wine • Parmesan, grated, or Rawmesan (see Know-how), or 2 tbsp nutritional yeast, plus extra to serve • 50g black olives, pitted • 400g tin cherry tomatoes • 1 tsp honey or agave syrup • Handful fresh basil leaves FOR THE ROASTED RAGÙ
• 800g mushrooms, such as shiitake, portobello or button mushrooms, roughly chopped • 400g cherry tomatoes, halved • 2 aubergines, trimmed and cut into small wedges • 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and cut into small wedges • 1 red pepper, cut into thick strips • 6 shallots, cut into wedges • 3 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole
eat well for life.
• 1 tbsp freshly ground fennel seeds • 2 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary leaves • 1 tsp chilli flakes YOU’LL ALSO NEED
• 2-3 large roasting trays lined with non-stick baking paper 1 To make the roasted ragù, heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Arrange all the prepared vegetables and garlic in a single layer on the lined trays. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and the ground fennel seeds, chopped rosemary and chilli flakes. Roast for 30-50 minutes, checking frequently during the last 10 minutes of the roasting time to make sure the veg aren’t burning (see Make Ahead). 2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of water to the boil and add a drizzle of olive oil and a generous pinch of salt. Cook the pappardelle, or other pasta shapes, for 2 minutes less than instructed on the packet. Turn off the heat and drain the pasta, reserving 600ml of the cooking water. Return the pasta to the pan with the reserved cooking water and add a drizzle of olive oil to keep it moist and give it a sheen. 3 Pick out the roasted garlic cloves from the trays, crush them with a fork and mix with the pasta. Add the roasted vegetables, the wine, parmesan, Rawmesan or nutritional yeast, the olives, tinned tomatoes and the honey or agave syrup, then put over a medium-high heat. Leave to simmer briskly, stirring gently, for about 5-10 minutes until the liquid has reduced and been absorbed by the pasta. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, drizzle with a little olive oil and serve sprinkled with basil and parmesan or Rawmesan. PER SERVING 452kcals, 11.7g fat (3.6g saturated), 19.5g protein, 58.6g carbs (10.6g sugars), 0.5g salt, 10.9g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Juicy, light, fairly simple Italian reds with fresh cherry flavours hit the right notes – try bardolino or valpolicella.
Roasted ragù and pappardelle
Tunisian tabil aubergine with couscous SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN
Tunisian cooking is often overshadowed by the more celebrated Moroccan cuisine, but after being introduced to it, I fell in love. Tunisian food is a blend of Mediterranean and North African flavours,
and the characteristic spice mix is tabil, widely sprinkled on bread and used in various warm dishes. Tabil features in this recipe, where aubergines and spices are married together in a satisfying tagine-style stew, which is comforting and exciting, drizzled with a creamy yogurt dressing. → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 95
Tunisian tabil aubergine with couscous, p95
Make the stew up to a day MAKE AHEAD ahead and reheat in a pan to serve.
• ½ tbsp caraway seeds • ¾ tsp dried chilli flakes FOR THE COUSCOUS
Recipes adapted from Feasts of Veg: Vibrant vegetarian recipes for gatherings by Nina Olsson (Kyle Books £18.99).
• Olive oil for frying • 1 red onion, thinly sliced • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 3 medium aubergines, roughly chopped • ¾ tsp salt, plus extra to taste • 400g tin chopped tomatoes • 4-5 sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and finely chopped (optional) • Juice ½ lemon • 400g tin chickpeas, drained • 3 dried apricots or other dried fruit, finely chopped • 400ml hot vegetable stock FOR THE TABIL SPICE MIX
• 1½ tbsp coriander seeds • ¾ tbsp cumin seeds
• 240g wholegrain couscous or quinoa • 420ml hot vegetable stock • Small handful fresh coriander FOR THE YOGURT DRESSING
• 200ml greek yogurt • Small handful chopped mint 1 Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and toast all the ingredients for the tabil spice mix for 20-30 seconds, stirring until fragrant. Transfer to a spice grinder or pestle and mortar and grind until very fine. 2 Heat a large pan over a medium heat. Add a drizzle of olive oil and fry the onion, stirring often, for 5-7 minutes until translucent. Add the
garlic, aubergines and tabil spice mix with an extra drizzle of olive oil, then stir to coat the aubergines in the spice. Fry for about 5 minutes until the aubergines are nicely browned. Add the salt, both types of tomatoes, lemon juice, chickpeas, dried fruit and stock, mix well, then leave the stew to simmer for 15 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, put the couscous or quinoa in a bowl. Pour over the hot vegetable stock and leave to soak for 10 minutes, then stir through the coriander leaves. In a separate small bowl, mix together the yogurt and chopped mint. 4 Taste and adjust the seasoning of the aubergine stew with salt, then serve with the couscous or quinoa and drizzle with the yogurt dressing. Serve with a herb and pomegranate salad too, if you like.
eat well for life.
PER SERVING 547kcals, 17g fat (5.1g saturated), 20.8g protein, 67.6g carbs (14.9g sugars), 2.6g salt, 20.1g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A premium chilled rosé is a joy with this, best of all a fruity but dry Spanish rosado.
Chai carrot cake with lime and rose frosting SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN
I have a soft spot for carrot cake, and the Indian chai flavours of cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg work beautifully here, bringing a warmth to the juicy carrots. The sharp, floral-tasting frosting provides a cool contrast to the spicy cake. Bake the carrot cake a day MAKE ahead and keep in an AHEAD airtight container. Make the frosting a day ahead, cover and chill in the fridge. Be careful not to over-beat NINA’S the frosting in step 2 or it TIP will become too runny.
• 1½ tbsp agave syrup • ½ tbsp rosewater (optional) YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20cm round springform or loose-bottomed cake tin, base and sides greased with coconut oil or butter and base lined with non-stick baking paper 1 Put all the ingredients for the lime and rose frosting in a mixing bowl and beat with an electric hand mixer (or a wooden spoon) until light and creamy (don’t over-mix – see Make Ahead and tips). Cover the bowl and chill until ready to assemble the cake. 2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Sift the spelt flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, salt, spices and pepper into a large bowl and mix. In another mixing bowl,
using an electric hand mixer or a balloon whisk, whisk the coconut sugar, oil and agave syrup. Add the eggs one by one, whisking all the time, then whisk in the vanilla extract. Pour the oil and egg mixture into the dry mix and stir well, then stir in the grated carrots. 3 Pour the cake mix into the prepared tin and bake for 35-40 minutes or until a skewer pushed into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for 30 minutes in the tin. Turn the cake out of the tin and transfer to a serving plate to cool. Spread the frosting over the cake and sprinkle with nuts, rose petals and pomegranate seeds (if using). PER SERVING 361kcals, 17.7g fat (5g saturated), 5.3g protein, 44.1g carbs (26.7g sugars), 1g salt, 1.7g fibre
NEXT MONTH Five brilliant veggie bakes
Chai carrot cake with lime and rose frosting
• 175g spelt flour • ¾ tsp baking powder • ¾ tsp bicarbonate of soda • ¾ tsp salt • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • 4-6 green cardamom pods, seeds removed and finely crushed • ½ tsp ground ginger • ¼ tsp ground nutmeg • Pinch freshly ground black pepper • 150g coconut sugar • 130ml olive oil • 50ml agave syrup • 2 medium free-range eggs • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 120g carrots, finely grated • Hazelnuts, dried rose petals and pomegranate seeds to decorate (optional) FOR THE LIME AND ROSE FROSTING
• 150g full-fat cream cheese (the food team use Philadelphia) • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1 tsp fresh lime juice deliciousmagazine.co.uk 97
LOOSE ENDS Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen. Instead make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas
SPICED YOGURT FROM Mix 1 tbsp STICKY BARBECUED chipotle paste BEEF BRISKET with 3 tbsp yogurt P104 or crème fraîche and use to pep up sandwiches. SPICED CUTLETS Loosen 3 tbsp chipotle paste with a little water, then use to baste lamb cutlets or chicken wings as they cook on a hot barbie. Serve with lime-spiked mayonnaise and a herby salad. SPICED BAKED BEANS Fry ½ chopped onion and 4 chopped streaky bacon rashers until the onion is soft and the bacon is crisp. Stir in 1 crushed garlic clove and 1 tsp smoked paprika and cook for 1 minute. Add a 400g tin of drained and rinsed cannellini beans, 100ml tomato passata and 2 tbsp chipotle paste, cook until thick, then season. Serve on toast.
BUTTERMILK BLUE CHEESE DRESSING Using a fork, mash 50g blue cheese with 2 tbsp buttermilk in a bowl. Stir FROM HAM HOCK, PEA & APPLE POTATO SALAD P77
in 50g mayonnaise, 50g soured cream and some salt, pepper and lemon juice. Drizzle over nachos, steak or fried chicken. TANGY RADICCHIO SLAW Mix 50ml buttermilk with 2 tbsp mayonnaise, 1 grated carrot, a handful of finely shredded radicchio, half a finely shredded fennel bulb, 1 tbsp honey and 1 tsp toasted and crushed fennel seeds. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. BUTTERMILK FRENCH TOAST Whisk 100ml buttermilk with 2 medium free-range eggs, 1 tbsp sugar and 1 tsp ground cinnamon. Dip sourdough slices in the mixture and fry in sizzling butter on each side until golden. Serve with golden syrup, fresh berries and yogurt.
SPEEDY SPICED GRANOLA Search for ‘speedy homemade granola’ at deliciousmagazine. co.uk. Add 2 tbsp petimezi, 1 tsp ground cinnamon and the crushed seeds of 4 cardamom pods to the mixture before baking for a lightly spiced twist. SMOKY RED PEPPER DIP Put 2 red peppers, 2 plum tomatoes and 3 whole peeled garlic cloves in a roasting tin. Roast at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 for 30 minutes or until soft and browned. Whizz in a blender or food processor (or mash in a bowl) to a purée. Stir in 3 tbsp petimezi, 1 tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp smoked paprika and some salt and pepper to taste. Serve with toasted pitta bread or vegetable crudités.
PETIMEZI (GRAPE MOLASSES)
MIDDLE FROM EASTERN HAZELNUT, APPLE & TAHINI DRESSING PASTRY CIGARS P111 Mix 1 tbsp petimezi with 1 tbsp moscatel (or white wine) vinegar and 3 tbsp olive oil. Add lemon juice to taste and a pinch of ground sumac if you have it.
CRUNCHY CRUMB Bake slices of rye bread on a baking tray for 20-30 minutes at 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3 until completely dried out. Whizz in a food processor with a pinch of sea salt flakes. Use to add texture to smoked FROM BROWN BUTTER CARAMEL & RYE BREAD GELATO P22
mackerel and pickled cucumber or sprinkle on salads or pasta. SCANDINAVIAN MEATBALLS Search ‘frikadeller’ (Scandinavian meatballs) at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Whizz a couple of slices of rye bread in a food processor and replace the 50g white breadcrumbs with the rye crumbs for added tang. PARTY NIBBLES Cut rye bread into thin squares and drizzle with olive oil. Toast in a hot oven for a few minutes, then top with goat’s cheese, hot smoked salmon and a little dill.
SAUERKRAUT GUT-FRIENDLY BRUNCH Toast slices of wholemeal sourdough, top with wilted spinach, smashed avocado, a squeeze of lemon and a poached egg. Finish with a large spoonful of sauerkraut and a pinch of chilli flakes. PEPPED-UP POTATO SALAD Search for ‘new potato salad’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Stir a few spoonfuls of sauerkraut into the potato salad for a tangy flavour and added texture. FROM HOT DOGS WITH SAUERKRAUT & CRISPY FRIED ONIONS P85
WORDS: OLIVIA SPURRELL AND EMILY HUDSON. ILLUSTRATIONS: ALICE CLEARY
1 0 PA G E S O F T I P S A N D K N OW - H OW T O G ET YO U C O O K I N G S M A R T E R , FA ST E R A N D W I T H G R E AT E R C O N F I D E N C E
M E ET OUR EXPERTS
AUGUS T 2018
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p107 Hand-rolled trofie pasta from Adam Banks, head chef at Fifteen Cornwall
Deputy food editor
delicious. KITCHEN p100 Cookery tips and tricks, including how to blind-bake a pastry tart case
OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant
BE A BE T TER COOK
BE A BE T TER COOK
GO SLOW p104
Achieve smoky, fall-apart beef brisket in The Weekend Project LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer
XANTHE CLAY Chef, writer, and preserves & freezing queen
THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN... While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things, as well as answering cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. What’s the difference between onglet, hanger and skirt steak? How do you get the most juice from a lemon? Who has a handy way to pit a cherry? What is aquafaba? Isn’t all mozzarella buffalo mozzarella? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will help take your cooking to the next level.
Steaks for the grill
Once it was a choice between fillet, rump, sirloin or rib-eye, but steak has broadened its horizons. Look out for the following cuts, available at good butchers:
SE A SON’S E ATINGS
We’ve used a ready-made blackcurrant jam in our gorgeous cover star ice cream recipe on p23, but if you find yourself with a glut of homegrown or stumble across them at a market, here’s a recipe to preserve the bounty:
Easy blackcurrant jam 1 Put 500g washed picked blackcurrants in a large heavy-based saucepan and cover with 250ml cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer until the fruit bursts and softens. Add 500g granulated sugar and the juice of 1 lemon. 2 Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to a rolling boil and bubble for 5-8 minutes or until setting point is reached (around 105°C on a sugar thermometer). 3 Pour into warm sterilised jars, cover the surface with waxed discs and seal with lids while still warm.
ONGLET/HANGER/SKIRT A strong flavoured steak with a dark colour and open texture. Cut from under the diaphragm, the whole hanger has a membrane down the middle, which is removed to give two strips of meat. Onglet (its French name) should be cooked no more than medium rare or it can become tough (2-3 minutes on each side over a high heat is usually enough), then rested and sliced across the grain before serving. It loves a marinade, too. FLAT IRON An American cut, taken from the shoulder. It’s actually the same bit of the animal as feather blade but with the central seam of gristle removed so you end up with two uniformly thick slabs of meat that work well on the griddle. These look like the base of an old-fashioned metal iron – hence the name. The meat is dense, with a robust flavour, and best cooked no more than medium rare. Sear first, then turn down the heat a little to finish cooking. Rest well. TRI-TIP Another American cut, less common than the other two but worth looking out for. It’s a triangular cut from where the bottom of the rump meets the flank (the French called it ‘aiguillette baronne’). It has a juicy, slightly open texture, with a rump-like flavour. Sear over a high heat, then finish in the oven.
TR EN D INGR EDIENT
Coconut sugar Move over agave syrup – this year it’s all about coconut sugar. Made using the sap from coconut flowerbud stems, this palm sugar from southeast Asia is being promoted as a ‘healthy’ alternative to refined sugars. It’s a moot point as, however natural it is, it’s still sugar. But if you want a rich flavour, this has it in spades, combining the sweetness of brown sugar with deep caramel notes. Try on pancakes, fruit puds, porridge or even in homemade barbecue sauce.
Just what you need for slathering onto burgers, grilled meat, chicken and fish
1 ARGENTINIAN SALSA CRIOLLA
2 CAPER PICKLE SAUCE
Finely chop 1 ripe tomato, 1 shallot, 1 cornichon and 1 tbsp capers. Mix 2 tbsp red wine vinegar with ½ tsp each
salt and ground black pepper and 2 tbsp boiling water. Slowly whisk in 125ml extra-virgin olive oil to emulsify, then stir in the chopped ingredients. Season to taste. Set aside for 1 hour before serving.
3 MOJO VERDE
Put a small bunch of fresh coriander in a food processor with 1 garlic clove, ¼ tsp ground cumin, 2 pinches of caster sugar, the juice of ½ lemon and 2 tbsp water. Whizz to a paste, then mix in 5 tbsp olive oil to loosen. Season well with salt and pepper and leave to stand for 30 minutes. Taste and add more lemon or oil if needed.
No cherry pitter? Don’t worry – here’s how to stone a cherry Push down on the cherry with the flat edge of a chef’s knife to squash it. The stone will easily come away. Alternatively (and this keeps the cherry intact), open out a large paper clip once, so it still has a hook, then push into the top of the cherry. When you feel the stone, twist the clip, push it past the stone and hook it out.
All about the pulse (it’s on the rise) BY LUCAS HOLLWEG
Although we might occasionally dip into a pot of houmous, crack open a tin of baked beans or order lentil dhal with our curry, we lag far behind the rest of the world when it comes to eating pulses – the dried form of leguminous vegetables such as chickpeas and lentils. But with calls to eat less meat and the recent rise in veganism, pulses are gaining in popularity.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
DID YOU KNOW…? • The thick liquid from cooked (and tinned) pulses is called aquafaba – bean juice – and can be used in vegan cooking in place of eggs and egg whites. Chickpea aquafaba is particularly popular. Use as an emulsifier (in vegan mayo, for instance – blitz for 10 seconds with mustard, vinegar, oil and salt – and even ice cream) or whip to use in vegan cakes, meringues and mousses. If the liquid is watery, it needs reducing to the thickness of egg white before use. • British-grown pulses are having a revival. The sustainable Suffolk farmers Hodmedod grow a wide range of edible pulses, from haricot and fava beans, which make robust
houmous and falafel, to split yellow peas (great in dhals) and carlin peas (aka black badger peas) that are a great earthy alternative to chickpeas. • Pulses are the only food that are classed as both a vegetable and a protein. Although chickpeas and lentils are what’s known as ‘incomplete’ proteins, they become ‘complete’ when combined with whole grains, providing the amino acids the body needs. They’re also gluten free, low in cholesterol and a good source of fibre, folate, calcium, iron, zinc and vitamin C. • Pulse growing is resourcefriendly. Growing 1kg pulses uses as little as a tenth as much water as it takes to produce 1kg beef. • The first British Dal Festival was held in Bristol in March. It saw a city-wide celebration of pulse dishes from across the world. • Pulses are known for their, erm, explosive qualities – but adding ginger, cumin and fennel seed is thought to moderate their windy effects. →
Cut 500g cored and deseeded tomatoes, 1 red onion and 1 green pepper into 0.5cm cubes. Add 2 tbsp each red wine vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley, 1 tsp dried oregano and a pinch of chilli flakes. Season with salt and pepper and leave to stand for 2 hours. Check the seasoning and add more vinegar to taste.
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3 BRILLIANT BARBECUE SALSAS
Give lemons and limes a firm roll on the work surface before squeezing to release their juice more easily. If they feel very hard, microwave first for 10-15 seconds. COOK’S TIP
How to line and blind-bake a pastry tart case TECHNIQU E
W H AT’S THE DIFFER ENCE ?
KNOW YOUR MOZZARELLAS Regular mozzarella is a soft, milky cheese originally A
Hankering after the quiches in our Hall of Fame feature? Starting with the pastry you’ve made and chilled (see p26), here’s a foolproof way to create the crisp pastry case to hold all that savoury filling.
Unwrap the chilled pastry and roll out on a lightly floured surface to the thickness of a £1 coin [A]. Hold the tart tin over the top to see if the pastry is big enough to line the base and sides. If not, roll a bit more. Once you’re happy with the size, carefully roll the pastry loosely onto the rolling pin, then unroll over the top of the tart tin [B]. Ease the pastry into the tin, being careful not to tear it. Tear off a bit of the excess pastry, roll into a small ball and wrap in cling film. Use it to press the pastry into the edges of the tin [C]. If the pastry tears, patch up the hole with a little more of the excess pastry.
When the tin is lined, cut off any overhanging pastry by running a knife along the edge of the tin. Gently press the pastry into the flutes and prick the base with a fork [D]. Chill the tart tin in the fridge or freezer until firm. Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Line the chilled case with baking paper or foil, then fill to the top with ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice. Bake on the middle oven shelf for 15 minutes, remove the baking beans/uncooked rice and baking paper/foil, then bake for a further 5-8 minutes or until the pastry feels sandy to the touch. Take out of the oven, adjust the temperature accordingly and fill.
made in southern Italy using water buffalo milk. Nowadays cow’s milk is often used instead and the cheese is made all over Italy and beyond. Hard mozzarella is a low-moisture variety that’s less ‘wet’ when melted. Often called pizza mozzarella, it’s bought ready-grated and in blocks. The smoked version is is known as scamorza affumicata. Buffalo mozzarella has a slightly looser texture and more robust flavour than the cow’s milk version. Although mozzarella di bufala is made all over Italy (and in the UK, too, by places such as Laverstoke Park), traditional cheese from four regions of southern Italy has protected status as Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO. Bocconcini literally ‘little mouthfuls’, these are bite-size mozzarella balls. They’re great for scattering into a salad or using in canapés – on a cocktail stick with a basil leaf and half a cherry tomato or deep-fried in a crumb coating for a gloriously melty bite. Burrata is a rich, creamy variation (the name means ‘buttery’). Before the mozzarella ball is fully formed, the centre is filled with a mixture of scraps of mozzarella (stracciatella) and fresh cream. When the ball is torn or cut open, the cream oozes deliciously from the middle. • For recipes visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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By CJ Jackson, CEO of The Seafood School at Billingsgate and Seafish UK ambassador There’s so much beautiful seafood to be had at this time of year – and summer is the ideal time to experiment in the kitchen as we crave lighter eating on glorious hot-weather days.
BROWN SHRIMP These tiny crustaceans, available in the UK, are caught in waters from Norway to the Mediterranean and most famously Morecambe
Bay in Lancashire. They’re a light chocolate brown colour and are usually sold cooked (either in the shell, peeled or ready potted). The size makes them fiddly and time consuming to peel. Although they’re sold all year round, they’re at their best in late spring and summer. Great ways to cook… Either pot them in butter infused with mace and pepper, then serve with Melba toast, or add to beurre noisette (brown butter) with parsley and lemon to spoon over white fish fillets such as Dover sole or hake. If still in their shells, pull off the heads and eat the rest whole with a glass of champagne.
It isn’t usually a true bass, but a marketing word for meagre or corvina. Available wild as well as farmed, the sea fish is a relative newcomer to the world of aquaculture. It has a heavy jacket of gleaming bronze scales and gives wild sea bass a run for its money in size and flavour. Stone bass is also another name for wreckfish, which are becoming popular as an alternative to the endangered wild bass caught around the UK coast. It’s available whole or filleted. Great ways to cook… It’s traditionally used for making ceviche, where it’s marinated in chilli, lime zest and juice (the fish must be frozen first to get rid of parasites). It’s also great cooked in a salt crust and served with wasabi aïoli.
In season in the UK now, this fashionable sea vegetable is a hardy halophyte (salt tolerant plant) with a great salty taste and succulent crunch. There are two main types of samphire: rock and marsh. It’s the latter that’s most often seen in fishmongers. Known by many names including salicornia, pickle weed, glasswort and sea bean, it’s extensively farmed in Mexico, Israel and France, although it grows wild on salt flats and marshes in Europe, North America, South Africa and Asia. Great way to cook… It’s easy to prepare. Simply remove any tough woody stalks, blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds, refresh under cold water, then drain well. Stir-fry with chilli, cashew nuts and sesame seeds to serve as a veggie side or serve it hot or cold, drizzled with olive oil alongside whole roast salmon.
PREP RUNNER BEANS They’re a traditional treat of British summertime, delivering a fresh green, juicy flavour. Picked young, runner beans can be tender enough to eat raw, though larger beans require care before cooking.
FIRST, TEST A BEAN FOR TENDERNESS If there are any strings, remove them by shaving off the edges as lightly as possible with a swivel peeler. Large beans sometimes develop a hard, scale-like layer inside the pods. This means they’re too old and won’t be pleasant to eat, whatever you do to them. SLICE FINELY on the diagonal before cooking – you can buy shredders designed specifically for the job. With young beans though, it’s better to cut them into thumb-length pieces as both the shape and fleshy texture are more satisfying. TRY THEM COLD, TOO Plunge into cold water to cool as soon as they’re cooked, drain well and toss with green leaves, or on their own, with a punchy mustard dressing. IF YOU GROW YOUR OWN, decorate salads with a scattering of the bright edible runner bean flowers.
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Want to improve your kitchen skills? Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk & discover how to… Build a pizza oven • Make Mary Berry’s Malteser cake • Make an all-in-one white sauce • Roll your own pasta • Bake focaccia with vine tomatoes – and much more
THE WEEKEND PROJECT
SLOW-COOKED BARBECUED BEEF
Sticky Mexican-style barbecued beef brisket with quick-pickled onions
• 200ml fresh orange juice • 200ml passata
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME
FOR THE QUICK-PICKLED ONIONS
5½ HOURS, GRILL/BARBECUE TIME 10 MIN, PLUS
• 2 red onions, thinly sliced • Juice 3 limes • 1 tbsp sea salt
Complete up to the end of step MAKE AHEAD 2 up to 48 hours in advance. Complete up to the end of step 6 up to 24 hours in advance, allow the meat and sauce to cool separately, then cover and chill until ready to finish. The meat is first slow-cooked, FOOD TEAM’S then finished on the barbecue. TIPS For the first stage, the time it takes for the meat to become fully tender depends on which part of the brisket it’s been cut from. It’s ready once the fibres pull apart easily with a fork. If it’s not quite ready, set the timer for an extra 30 minutes, then check again. If you prefer to cook the beef indoors rather than barbecue it, heat the grill to medium-high and cook as in steps 7-8. • 2 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 red onion, chopped • 4 garlic cloves, crushed • 1 tbsp ground cumin • 1 tbsp ground coriander • 1-2 green or yellow jalapeños, sliced • 2 tbsp chipotle paste • 6 tbsp dark muscovado sugar • 2.25kg British beef brisket • 3 dried cascabel chillies (available from Waitrose, Ocado or online from souschef.co.uk) • 500ml good quality beef stock • 250ml fruity red wine
• Large handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped • Sliced green or yellow jalapeños • 2 ripe avocados, chopped • Juice ½ lime, plus extra wedges • Steamed rice or warm tortillas 1 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan. Add the chopped onion and fry for 5 minutes or until beginning to colour. Stir in the garlic, cumin, coriander, jalapeños, chipotle paste and sugar, season generously with salt and pepper, then cook for 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. If you like a smooth consistency, whizz in a mini food processor or pound in a pestle and mortar (optional). 2 Rub the cooled onion and spice marinade all over the brisket, then transfer to a large food bag with any leftover marinade. Marinate for at least 2 hours or ideally overnight in the fridge (see Make Ahead). 3 Meanwhile, for the pickled onions, toss the sliced onions with the lime juice and salt in a glass bowl, then leave for at least 2 hours until they’ve turned pink. 4 Put the dried chillies, stock, wine, orange juice and passata in a large jug and stir until well combined.
5 Once ready to slow-cook, heat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1. Put the brisket and any marinade from the bag in a large, deep roasting tin and pour over the stock mixture (including the chillies). Cover the meat with a layer of baking paper, then tightly cover the tin with 2 layers of foil, scrunching the edges to form a tight seal. Slow cook for 5-5½ hours, turning the meat over in the roasting tin halfway through the cooking time. 6 Once the brisket is fully tender (see tips) remove from the oven and set aside on a chopping board, loosely covered, to rest. Carefully pour the cooking liquid from the roasting tin into a saucepan and bubble over a high heat for 25-30 minutes to reduce to a sauce consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning (see Make Ahead). 7 When ready to barbecue, light the gas/coals and wait for the grill to heat up/the coals to glow white (or see tips). Brush a little of the reduced sauce over the brisket and barbecue (or grill) for 5 minutes on each side, basting every two minutes with more sauce to create a charred, sticky crust. 8 To serve, mix the coriander, jalapeños, avocados and lime juice in a bowl and serve alongside the brisket with the quick-pickled onions and steamed rice or warm tortillas. PER SERVING (FOR 8) 533kcals, 20.7g fat (7.3g saturated), 61.9g protein, 17.9g carbs (16.6g sugars), 2.9g salt, 1.9g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A Chilean carmenère, typically a ripe and slightly spicy red, would be a real treat here.
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. STYLING: WEI TANG
Brisket can be a tough joint, but this recipe guarantees fall-apart-tender meat with a Mexican flavour that will make your taste buds sit up and take notice
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BE A BETTER COOK CHEF’S STEP BY STEP
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP
with watercress, courgette and almonds by Adam Banks This is a great dish to cook to impress guests . You don’t need a fancy gadget but you do need to master the technique for making the pasta. What’s fantastic about the sauce is that you can change it depending on what’s in season. I like to use wild garlic or asparagus in spring, watercress throughout the summer and cavolo ADAM BANKS, HEAD CHEF AT FIFTEEN CORNWALL nero in winter.
PHOTOGRAPHS MIKE ENGLISH FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE deliciousmagazine.co.uk 107
He worked as senior sous chef at Jamie Oliver’s Cornish outpost from 2005-2011 and, after working in Australia and at the Star & Garter pub in Falmouth, he returned to Fifteen Cornwall as head chef last spring. The restaurant’s rustic, Italian-inspired food is perfectly matched by Adam’s passion for using seasonal and local ingredients. Profits go to Fifteen Cornwall’s registered charity, Cornwall Food Foundation, which has trained more than 100 apprentice chefs over the past decade.
Trofie pasta with watercress, courgette and almonds SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS RESTING
Make the pasta dough up to 2 days MAKE AHEAD ahead and keep wrapped in cling film in the fridge. The shaped trofie will keep somewhere cool for up to a day in an airtight container (see Adam’s tips, right). FOOD It’s easy to make this recipe vegan TEAM’S by omitting the cheese or using a TIP vegan alternative. • 200g fine semolina, plus extra to dust (optional; see Adam’s tips) • 100ml freshly boiled water from a kettle • 400g watercress (see Adam’s tips) • Pinch flaky sea salt (we used Maldon), plus extra to serve • 50-100ml olive oil • 2 medium courgettes • 50g fresh mint 108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 100g whole blanched almonds, toasted • Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon • Mature pecorino (or vegetarian alternative) to serve • Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle 1 Put the semolina in a heatproof bowl and add the hot water [A]. Stir to make a dough, then leave until cool enough to handle. 2 Knead the dough on a clean work surface until smooth. If the dough is tacky and sticking to the surface it’s slightly too wet, so dust both work surface and dough with a little more fine semolina and keep working the dough [B]. Roll it into a ball [C], then wrap in cling film and leave to rest for 30 minutes (not in the fridge). 3 While the dough is resting, pick through the watercress and reserve half the best-looking pieces [D]. Chop the rest of the watercress finely and pound in a pestle and mortar with a pinch of sea salt flakes
and olive oil [E]. Start with 50ml oil and add more as required – you’re looking for a thick pesto-like consistency. 4 Peel the courgettes into thin ribbons using a Y-shaped vegetable peeler [F]. Pick the mint leaves from their stalks and lightly crush the toasted almonds in a pestle and mortar. Set aside. 5 Unwrap the rested dough, pull off a piece the size of a small marble and roll into a ball, then roll on the work surface into a sausage shape the width of the first three fingers of your hand [G]. 6 Now for the slightly frustrating but most rewarding (once you’ve cracked it) part: shaping the trofie. Move your thumb to the far end of the sausage-shaped dough and in one motion, applying gentle pressure, pull the dough back towards you with your thumb at a slight angle moving away from you in a kind of arc. The dough will twist up against your thumb and will look like a
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T I M E S AV E R T I P...
If you’re short on time, buy good quality dried trofie or swap for orecchiette or tagliatelle.
spiral shell [H]. Repeat with the remaining pasta dough. (If you don’t get on with this technique, you can try shaping the dough in the palm of your hand under your thumb: roll your thumb backwards applying pressure while pushing your hand away from you in a swooping motion so the dough rolls under your thumb – see Adam’s tips, right.) 7 Leave the trofie to firm up while you bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Once boiling, add the trofie [I] and cook for 4-6 minutes (checking after 4 minutes) until just al dente. 8 Meanwhile, set another large pan over a medium heat, then add 2-3 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water. Stir in the raw unblended watercress so it starts to wilt, then add the courgette ribbons and stir to wilt for 1-2 minutes over the heat. 9 Drain the pasta, reserving a few more tablespoons of the pasta cooking water.
Add the drained trofie to the pan with the wilted watercress and courgettes and toss together well. Add the watercress sauce, lemon zest and juice to the pan [J] and toss together to combine. If the sauce is too thick to coat the trofie, add some or all of the reserved pasta water to loosen it a little. 10 Add most of the crushed almonds and a good grating of pecorino/vegetarian cheese alternative to the trofie and toss together once more. Transfer to a large serving plate, drizzle over some extravirgin olive oil, scatter over the mint leaves and sprinkle with the remaining almonds, sea salt flakes and some more grated pecorino/vegetarian alternative, if you like. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 332kcals, 18.8g fat (2.2g saturated), 11.1g protein, 27.2g carbs (1.8g sugars), 0.1g salt, 4.4g fibre WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Rich whites may overwhelm this so go for a light, refreshing Italian such as gavi or pecorino.
ADAM’S TIPS FOR SUCCESS → If you’re making the pasta ahead, dust with rice flour instead of semolina. I was taught this tip by Gennaro Contaldo and it really helps to keep the moisture out of the pasta. → As a change from almonds, use pine nuts, pistachios or hazelnuts – or use up a mix of what you have available in your storecupboard. It might take a few goes to get the trofie technique right – to see a video of Adam rolling the trofie (step 6) visit delicious magazine.co.uk/trofie-pasta.
NEXT MONTH Chef Alex Jackson’s Mediterranean fish stew deliciousmagazine.co.uk 109
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP
Squash, feta and trahana pie is the essence of Greece
WHERE Oliveology, The Cookhouse, Borough Market, London SE1 (oliveology.co.uk) THE COURSE Greek Vegetarian Workshop, £65 (half day); includes lunch, goodie bag and 10 per cent off future purchases and workshops TESTER Abigail Dodd
WHAT IT’S LIKE Marianna Kolokotroni began Oliveology, which specialises in quality organic food straight from Greece, as a stall in London’s Borough Market in 2009. Her family farm in Sparta, in the Peloponnese, is a main supplier, providing herbs, citrus fruit, nuts and olives. In 2016 Marianna was offered a permanent shop space and the business has since grown steadily, branching out to occasional cooking and wine workshops in Borough Market’s well-equipped demonstration kitchen, high above the main gate. Marianna introduced us to Despina Siahuli, an Athenian chef who’s worked in London kitchens as diverse as St John and E5 Bakehouse. There were 10 of us on the course. Most had travelled to Greece and loved the food and its emphasis on freshness and seasonality. My 18-year-old vegetarian daughter was with me, hoping to take away some useful recipes for when she starts university next month. WHAT I LEARNED We made four dishes: fava; butternut squash, feta and trahana pie; wild mushroom fricassée; and hazelnut, apple and tahini filo pastries. The Greek dish fava (not to be confused with fresh broad beans or dried fava beans) is a simple, sustaining dish made from yellow 110 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
split peas, which I’d enjoyed in Crete and Cefalonia. We chopped and sautéed onions and garlic, added carrots and the split peas, then left them to simmer before whizzing to a luscious dip. Trahana, used in the second dish, is a fermented mixture of grains (semolina, bulgur or cracked wheat) combined with milk, yogurt or buttermilk and dried in the sun. Its sour tang and granular texture work well with the soft sweetness of butternut squash. After making the filling, we moved on to the tricky bit. Filo has always daunted me but Despina dispelled my nerves. The secret is to keep your stash covered with a damp cloth and make generous use of olive oil on a pastry brush. We sat at the communal table chopping, rolling up filo and sharing our Greek travel experiences, picking up tips on islands to visit next; it felt like a holiday reunion. A catherine wheel pie laced with feta and mint and encrusted with sesame seeds made a golden centrepiece to our lunch. The wild mushroom fricassée was so deliciously savoury it converted my
fungiphobe daughter into a mushroom lover. It was a quick, easy, full-flavoured dish, with complexity from dill, fennel, nutmeg, mint and the addition of a piece of cheese rind (whipped out at the end). The filling for our final dish was a mouthwatering mix of fruit and nuts spiked with marinated currants, orange, cinnamon, honey and the unmistakable flavour of tahini. The smell was heavenly as we stirred. We were shown how to roll the filling into filo cigars or fold it into triangles like mini samosas. The results were crisp, delicate parcels of rich fruitiness with the warmth of sesame and hazelnut. THE VERDICT We learned a great deal about Greece and its culture, as well as its food. My only criticism was that the feta and trahana pie and the apple pastries were rather similar to make. Both were really tasty but I would like to have tried another technique from the Greek kitchen. The dishes we cooked and ate embodied the country I have such fond memories of: warm, relaxed and exciting, full of textural contrasts and fulsome flavours.
THE TAKE-HOME TIPS By expert teacher Despina Siahuli • Use olive oil in sweet as well as savoury dishes. Buy the best you can afford and make it extra-virgin, if possible. • With the right combination of herbs and flavourings the simplest ingredients become far more than a sum of their parts.
• Keep unwrapped filo covered with a damp cloth and treat it gently but firmly. • Don’t throw away cheese rinds. Add to soups and stews for deep savoury notes. • Don’t be afraid to bring your favourite recipe ideas back from holiday and re-create them at home. It’s only the local liquor that often doesn’t travel well!
RECIPES: OLIVEOLOGY. PHOTOGRAPH: LIZZIE MAYSON. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE
THE COOKERY SCHOOL
in the know.
THE MAKE-AT-HOME RECIPE
Hazelnut, apple and tahini pastry cigars MAKES 24. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, PLUS SOAKING, OVEN TIME 20 MIN
Make the hazelnut filling up to MAKE 48 hours ahead and store in an AHEAD airtight container in the fridge. Petimezi is grape molasses. KNOW- Drizzle it over pancakes or yogurt. HOW Buy it at oliveology.co.uk. If you can’t find grape molasses, you can use pomegranate molasses instead. • 75g currants or sultanas (ideally Greek) • 45g petimezi (see Know-how) • 25ml orange blossom water • 100g toasted hazelnuts, finely ground
• 100g tahini, plus extra for drizzling • 100g Greek fir honey (from oliveology. com, Sainsbury’s or good delis), plus extra for drizzling • Grated zest and juice 1 orange • 1 tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra for sprinkling • 200g cox apple, grated • 6 filo pastry sheets • Olive oil for brushing 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Line 2 baking sheets with baking paper. Put the currants or sultanas in a large bowl with the petimezi and orange blossom water, then leave to soak for 30 minutes. 2 Stir in the hazelnuts, tahini, honey, orange zest and juice, cinnamon and apple. 3 With the long side facing you, cut the filo
sheets vertically into 4 even strips. Keep covered under a damp tea towel. 4 Brush one strip with a little oil. Spread a spoonful of filling onto one end of the strip, leaving a 1cm border. Fold the bottom of the sheet over the filling and roll up the pastry, tucking in the sides as you go. Transfer to a prepared baking sheet and brush with a little extra oil. 5 Repeat with the remaining pastry strips, then bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown. Allow to cool on the baking sheets. 6 Pile the cigars into a bowl, drizzle with tahini, honey and a sprinkle of cinnamon. PER PASTRY CIGAR 120kcals, 6.9g fat (0.8g saturated), 2.6g protein, 11.3g carbs (8.2g sugars), trace salt, 1.1g fibre For more ways to use petimezi, see Loose Ends →
THE COOKBOOK Jamie Cooks Italy (Michael Joseph £26, out 9 August) TESTED BY Susan Low
Flaky fish fritters with quick salt cod
custodian of traditional recipes from the Aeolian Islands. QUALITY OF THE RECIPES The dishes from the pantheon of matriarchs are a strong point of the book. There are recipes from Jamie, too, that he describes as “a real mix of fast and slow cooking, familiar classics as well as new things… and simple everyday dishes alongside more fantastical, indulgent, labour-of-love options for weekends”. For my two to try, I settled on one from Jamie and one from Nonna Mercedes, who comes from a small town in the Aosta Valley in the north of Italy and is among the few remaining descendants of Italy’s Walser community, who speak their own language and trace their ancestral roots back to Switzerland and Germany. First up, Jamie’s flaky fish fritters made with cod, potato, smoky scamorza cheese and capers. The fritters may not scream of Italian traditions, but they tasted fantastic (in fact, the four of us easily scoffed the lot, which was meant to serve six). Jamie’s technique of salting the cod for an hour to remove excess moisture really works: the cakes held together well during cooking, had a firm texture and plenty of flavour. Nonna Mercedes’ chnéffléné (‘teardrop’ dumplings) are made with a batter of
semolina, flour, milk and eggs that’s pushed through the holes of a colander into boiling water. They’re similar to spätzle, which my best friend’s Bavarian mother used to make for me when I was a youngster, and are relatively easy (if a bit messy) to make. With a sauce of roasted red onions and bacon they’re rib-sticking enough to chase away wintry Alpine chills, not to mention supremely tasty. PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN The photos by David Loftus – on location, portrait and food shots – are beautiful. In terms of format, though, the book feels a tad disjointed. Chapters are divided by course (antipasti, soups, meat, fish…), rather than by region, with the profiles of the matriarchs peppered throughout. As a consequence, the women’s stories get a bit lost, and it’s also tricky to pick up on Italy’s regional cooking differences. It’s a function, no doubt, of trying to accommodate both a television programme and a book that allows readers to find recipes in a logical way. WHO’S THE BOOK SUITABLE FOR? The legions of Jamie fans will relish this book, but any aficionado of Italian food will find plenty to pique their interest. VERDICT ★ ★ ★ ★
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID LOFTUS
For this new book – his 21st, remarkably – Jamie is back on his home-from-home territory, Italy. His previous book on Italy was published way back in 2005, and for this new one he’s enlisted his best mate and mentor Gennaro Contaldo. The pair travelled the length and breadth of the country over a year researching the places, dishes – and people – that make Italy’s food great. In addition to this cookbook, their findings will be the subject of a Channel 4 television series. The book is more than just a collection of recipes; it has a deeper purpose: helping to preserve Italy’s traditional regional recipes. Jamie writes: “I’ve noticed a shift in Italian food culture. The time-honoured traditions and recipes of the true matriarchs of the kitchen, the nonnas and mammas that are the beating heart of the Italian home, are at risk of being lost.” And it’s the contributions from these “nonnas and mammas” that set this book apart. Among the rather amazing cast of matriarchs are Nonna Maria, a fisherwoman (the only female) from the tiny island of Procida off the coast of Naples; Nonna Elena, the last Jewish nonna from the Tuscan town of Pitigliano; and Nonna Franchina, the 92-year-old
IRRESISTIBLE ITALIAN NIBBLES
in the know.
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THE NEW ART OF COOKING
If you can’t tuck into your food without snapping and sharing it first, this ‘modern guide to preparing and styling delicious food’ from Frankie Unsworth could be the book for you. As you’d expect, the photos are easy on the eye; the Euro-inspired recipes are appealing and there’s plenty of sound advice for hosts. Bloomsbury £30
A collection of recipes and stories from the Palestinian kitchen by human-rights campaigner and cook Yasmin Khan, the inspiration gleaned from travels in the Occupied Palestinian Territories. The book is personal and well researched, with a strong voice, appealing recipes and beautiful photography: what good food writing is all about. Bloomsbury £26
Cibi is Japanese for ‘little one’ and these family-friendly Japanese-influenced recipes from Melbourne-based restaurateurs Meg and Zenta Tanaka are accessible enough to satisfy young and curious palates. They’re also simple to make at home without fuss and they look beautiful. East-meets-West cooking, deliciously done. Hardie Grant £22
TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. BOOK REVIEWS: SUSAN LOW
THE TAS TE TES T MAYONNAISE HOW WE TEST
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR
Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read below are unbiased.
A good mayo should possess a rich, savoury flavour with a sharp, citrussy edge. It should be well seasoned, not sweet or cloying, and have a creamy consistency. The same goes for vegan versions, made with soya, maize, rice or aquafaba (chickpea water).
This is a thick, glossy mayo with a rich, rounded flavour and good acidity.
Extra creamy with a sharp kick and appealing yellow colour.
Earthy egg and punchy mustard flavours balanced with citrus.
Lidl Batts Real Mayonnaise, 59p for 500ml
Maille Mustard Aldi Mayonnaise, Bramwells Real £2.85 for 320g, Mayonnaise, Ocado, Tesco, 59p for 513g Sainsbury’s
Warming mustard taste and creamy mouthfeel.
Velvety mayo Creamy, light and with lots of body full-flavoured – a and a pleasant malt vinegar tang. clear winner.
Delouis Mayonnaise, £2.55 for 250g, Ocado, Waitrose, Sainsbury’s
Heinz Seriously Good Mayonnaise, £2.50 for 460g
Follow Your Heart Original Vegenaise, £3.49 for 340g, Sainsbury’s, Ocado
Rubies In The Rubble Aquafaba Mayo, £2.99 for 210g, Ocado, Whole Foods Decent texture and strong, salty, vinegary kick. →
in the know.
THE GADGE T THE GADGET Everdure by Heston Blumenthal Cube Portable Charcoal Barbecue, £149, lakeland.co.uk TESTED BY Aggie MacKenzie
WHY BOTHER? If you’ve outgrown those one-use aluminium foil jobs and appreciate good design, this could be the barbie to invest in. WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT THIS ONE? It’s neat and portable (weighs 7kg). Good for camping or taking to the park on a summery evening after work (depending on the park rules, of course!). The deep lift-off top can be used for marinating or storing utensils and the lid can be used as a chopping board. The handles stay cool so you can carry without fear of scalding yourself. On the underside is a shield that keeps the firebox hot and surroundings cool, so you won’t scorch anything. The steel grill is
easily removed for cleaning. It’s described as being designed to have a short warm-up time. Not sure how it works but indeed the coals were ready to cook on in 15-20 minutes. ANY DRAWBACKS? The carry bag, although handsome, sturdy and with an internal strap that keeps the contraption secure, is about as dear as the barbecue itself: £129. THE VERDICT? Definitely worth considering. A great looker that is likely to serve you well for a good few years. You’d be hardpressed to justify paying for the carry bag though.
A GOOD GRILLING
Although pricey, this portable barbie does a respectable job
FOR THE CARNIVOROUS COOK WHO HAS (ALMOST) EVERYTHING The Meater is a neat (the size of a small, slim pen), high tech meat thermometer that takes the worry out of cooking meat. It operates with an app (so is wire-free) and lets you know five minutes before your beef/pork/lamb/chicken is ready. All you have to do is choose the type of meat and how you want it cooked, then your phone or tablet will beep when it’s ready. If Alexa lives with you, she’ll be able to update you on the status of the meat as it’s cooking. It’s impressive and a brilliant gadget for home use – and, frankly, for showing off to your pals. Suitable for both barbie and domestic oven. £89.99, amazon.co.uk
JOIN GILL MELLER FOR A COOKING ADVENTURE AT RIVER COTTAGE delicious. editor Karen Barnes and River Cottage chef Gill Meller are hosting a day of foraging, cooking and feasting in Devon. What a treat it will beÉ
iscover for yourself the magic of River Cottage as you’re transported by tractor to the iconic 65-acre farm nestled in the Axe valley. As one of just 19 guests, you’ll spend the day with Gill in this intimate setting, unearthing the best seasonal British ingredients from the surrounding rural landscape and coastline. You’ll also be given the chance to explore the farm throughout the day and see how the team grow, nurture and harvest their outstanding produce. This unforgettable day will start with an introduction to the farm and activities over light refreshments. Next up: five hands-on sessions including foraging, organic breadbaking and cooking, in which you’ll learn how to make the most of what’s in season. You’ll then prepare a starter, main course and pudding using your new knowledge. Enjoy the spoils of your day’s work in the cosy 17th-century farmhouse dining room as you sit down to feast on the three-course menu. You’ll also have the chance to quiz Gill and Karen in a relaxed Q&A session over dessert. And while the
Spend a day at River Cottage, a tranquil haven of self-sufficiency
memories of the day will last a lifetime, each guest will also receive a signed copy of Gill’s beautiful new book Time – ahead of publication. It’s the perfect River Cottage memento to take home.
WHEN 9.30am to 5pm, Friday 14 Sep 2018 WHERE River Cottage HQ, Trinity Hill Road, Axminster, Devon EX13 8TB COST £240 per person including cooking class, food, Q&A and a signed book
BOOK AT rivercottage.net/delicious or call 01297 630300 deliciousmagazine.co.uk 115
When only a trip to the seaside will do… Ah, to be down by the shore, with the cries of seabirds, the salt spray and the fulsome larder of our seas to gorge on. But where to stay to indulge in comfort? Look no further – we’ve scoured the length and breadth of the nation’s coastline to find four favourite spots
THE CHARMING ONE
THE IDLE ROCKS St Mawes, Cornwall BY KAREN BARNES
CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PICTURE
*OFFER APPLIES TO STAYS UP TO 31 OCTOBER 2018
Sunset views over St Mawes; miso lamb neck; The Idle Rocks; luxurious seaview rooms; chef Guy Owen leads the award-winning kitchen; relax in the brightly decorated lounge area with stand-out harbour views
Put aside thoughts of dramatic Poldark-style cliffs – here, instead, the gentle seascape of the Fal estuary is right outside your window. When you’re not out exploring, I’ll wager you’ll lose an hour a day gazing out at boats, sea and sky. Better than a meditation class any day. St Mawes is a large fishing village fringed with a quaint mix of cottages. There’s always lots going on harbour-side, including gig racing (Cornish rowing boats) and boats coming and going. The village is on a peninsula and the easiest way to get there is via the King Harry Ferry just beyond the National Trust Trelissick Garden, especially in summer when roads are congested. The Idle Rocks is one of the best all-round hotel experiences we’ve had, and I’ve been trying to quantify what makes it so standout. I’ve mentioned the view, and I’ll come to the food. The staff are so superhelpful it’s like having a person who’s imagined what you need before you even know you need it. Sit at the bar and a fine cocktail will be in front of you in moments. I had a sloe gin sour and it was lush – or I was a lush; I can’t quite remember. And then there’s Sid, who will proudly tell you he’s the only concierge in Cornwall. I go to the area often and know a lot of the local food gems, but Sid opened our eyes to more – he has a special list. Another plus: all the communal spaces at The Idle Rocks face the sea, and there’s a terrace the whole way along. Yes, it’s all about the sea, the sea, and the tones inside reflect the blues, whites and splashes of colour you see outside. It’s like a glamorous beach hut on steroids. THE FOOD Chef Guy Owen has won several awards. The menu is fine-dining in style, but rather than a flavour overload, everything is
deftly matched. Highlights included softshell crab-filled ravioli, tender duck atop giant couscous laced with Middle Eastern flavours and a chocolate-moussey parfait – not to mention excellent cheese. Breakfasts are bountiful: local sausages and Cornish hog’s pudding, pancakes (thin English, not chunky American), porridge with a dollop of clotted cream, yogurt, fruit and pastries. Another night, trot along the road to sister establishment the St Mawes Hotel (complete with private cinema) or The Watch House fish restaurant right next door. THE ROOMS There are cosy cottages next to the main hotel building, all with the same easy style. The beds are high and wide and deep and once you’re in you won’t want to get out. Bathrooms are as smart as you’d expect, with waterfall showers, underfloor heating and a mound of fluffy towels in a basket. COST From £150 a night. Three-course set menu £58, plus wine. Book a two-night stay SPECIAL by phone, mentioning OFFER delicious., and receive a complimentary afternoon tea*. idlerocks.com → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 117
THE TRADITIONAL ONE
HOTEL EILEAN IARMAIN Isle of Skye, Scotland BY JOAN RANSLEY
SEASIDE CREDS The Isle of Skye, a ‘drive-on’ natural wonderland accessed via the bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh (or the Armadale ferry), is celebrated for its glorious seascapes, and this much-loved 19th-century hotel on the island’s Sleat peninsula has gorgeous views in abundance. It overlooks the small tidal island of Ornsay, once a busy herring port, and there’s a pretty natural harbour with views over the Sound of Sleat and a lighthouse built by Robert Louis Stevenson’s uncles. Hotel Eilean Iarmain is part of a 23,000-acre Scottish estate owned by Lady Lucilla Noble who, together with her late husband Sir Iain, championed traditional Gaelic life and language. There’s plenty of things to do, with brown trout fishing, sea kayaking, photography courses, Argocat amphibious safaris, wildlife walks, hunting with ghillies from the estate and, if you’re ready for the sharp intake of breath, wild swimming. THE FOOD The Birlinn restaurant menu celebrates the best of Scottish produce including Gartmorn Farm duck, Scottish lamb and venison from the estate. The harbour, which you can see from the window, provides langoustine, squat lobster and mussels for the restaurant. Head 118 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
chef Virgil Tiskus is Lithuanian and creates dishes that include locally foraged ingredients, such as mushrooms and wild garlic (when in season), as well as local fruit such as raspberries, strawberries, cherries and blackberries. The Am Pràban Bar serves hearty bar meals in a relaxed atmosphere, with regular cèilidh nights. This is the place to meet the locals and hear the mellifluous tones of the Gaelic language. Breakfast highlights include thick porridge, homemade potato cakes and local bacon, sausages and free-range eggs. You can visit the hotel’s The Gaelic Whiskies shop to enjoy a free tasting of their award-winning premium scotch. If you fancy making your own gin, a local guide will take you foraging for aromatics to infuse with gin in a traditional mini copper still before bottling to take home. THE ROOMS Wood panelling gives a traditional feel to the hotel and each of the 12 comfortable bedrooms has its own individual character – but ‘designer’ they are not. In addition, there are four suites with stunning sea views, cosy sitting rooms and doorways to a garden with outdoor tables and chairs for relaxing with a glass of wine or a wee dram. COST Doubles from £80 per night low season, B&B (from £200 high season). Dinner £45 for three courses, plus wine. Mention delicious. when SPECIAL OFFER you book a stay to receive a complimentary bottle of house red or white wine*. eileaniarmain.co.uk
*ALL OFFERS APPLY TO STAYS UP TO 31 OCTOBER 2018
FROM THIS PICTURE The spectacular view of Ornsay Lighthouse; Scottish produce is the star at Birlinn restaurant; rooms reflect traditional Highland design; the hotel’s gorgeous harbour setting
THE CHIC ONE
NORTH HOUSE Cowes, Isle of Wight BY FIONA SIMS
SEASIDE CREDS I sat wearing my new stripy sailing smock, sipping a Mermaid & tonic (I’ll explain later) with the distant clink of halyards against masts. The setting was Cowes’ newest boutique hotel North House, which opened in 2016 on one of the town’s loveliest streets. It may be a 23-minute ferry ride from Southampton but it’s a world away from the busy mainland. Cowes is yachting central and in Cowes Week (4-11 August), one of the longest running sailing regattas in the world, the town heaves with rakishly uniformed crew and thousands of spectators. The rest of the year it putters along genteelly. The beautifully renovated townhouse is a short climb up Sun Hill. It has 14 bedrooms, a heated swimming pool, a buzzy bar and a restaurant called The Oyster Store, with views across the billowing sails on the Solent to the Spinnaker Tower in Portsmouth beyond. Farrow & Ball paint and wallpaper rule here, in the public rooms and the bedrooms. Detail is all, from the in-room digital Roberts radios to the bicycles on free loan to guests. So, that Mermaid: it’s an Islandmade gin using local samphire as one of the botanicals, and it slipped down a treat as the sun went down on the lavender-filled terrace. In
fact, if it hadn’t been for the stiff breeze I could almost have been in Provence. And the smock? Bought from PHG, the smart Cowes lifestyle store, and made by an islander. Isle of Wight immersion complete. THE FOOD The chef is Matt Foster, who has previous form on the island, and the food is British bistro. We didn’t have to wait long for perfectly cooked, charcoal oven-blasted 28 day-aged sirloin steak with skinny fries from local producer Combley Farm. Whole sea bream, also finished in the charcoal oven, was served simply with steamed new potatoes and spinach, following a daily special of baked local crab with tarragon and charred lemon, scooped up with sourdough. There’s a balanced wine list too – we tried a perky Galician godello for the fish and a solid Chilean carmenère for the meat. Breakfast is equally good, from avocado and poached eggs on toast to eggs Florentine. THE ROOMS Split into three categories: Cosy, Comfy and Spacious; some have fabulous sea views. It’s all about the detail here too – we chose a Spacious room, Number 12, with a roll-top bath, french windows and juliet balcony overlooking Cowes’ rooftops and the sea beyond. COST From £95 for a double room, including breakfast. Dinner from £25 for two courses, plus wine. Mention delicious. when SPECIAL OFFER you book a stay to receive a complimentary glass of champagne and house truffles*. northhhousecowes.co.uk → FROM TOP The Oyster Store menu has a
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES
strong focus on south coast seafood; the restaurant’s pale-toned dining room; roll-top baths are a feature in Spacious rooms; billowing sails during Cowes Week regatta
THE ARTY ONE
TWR Y FELIN HOTEL Pembrokeshire, Wales BY DIANNE SPENCER
The stunning Pembrokeshire landscape; tuck into American pancakes for breakfast; the windmill tower suite offers panoramic views; Twr y Felin Hotel
SEASIDE CREDS Tucked opposite the National Park Visitor Centre at the entrance to St Davids, the UK’s smallest city, Twr y Felin (the mill tower) Hotel comes as something of a surprise. It’s just a short stroll from the rugged, wildflower-lined Pembrokeshire Coast Path and the golden sands of beautiful Caerfai beach – but it’s absolutely not what you’d expect from a seaside hotel. Thanks to a £7 million restoration, this former mill turned temperance hotel then outdoor adventure centre is now the epitome of sleek urban cool, with state-of-the-art tech, moody decor and a jaw-dropping collection of edgy modern art. After a day spent exploring St Davids’ vast 12th-century cathedral and expanses of beach, bay and clifftop, the hotel’s dark, luxurious interiors are just the ticket. THE FOOD Head chef Simon Coe describes his food as “Frenchinfluenced modern British” but his biggest inspiration is the wealth of local produce. Fish comes still flapping off the boat from Milford Haven, while crab and lobster are landed even closer, at Solva. Welsh Black beef and Pembrokeshire lamb are sourced from butcher Gwyn Davies on the High Street, and freshly dug veg from Pen Pant Farm, a couple of miles down the road.
Foraging is big here, too, and it’s not unusual for Simon to include wild ingredients in his menus. Standout dishes on our visit? A mound of succulent Solva crab, the sweetness perfectly balanced with a lick of chive oil; crisp-skinned sea bream with roasted fennel and foraged sea greens; and a velvety violet-scented blackcurrant parfait, topped with zingy apple and yuzu sorbet and crunchy toasted oats. Breakfast is equally satisfying. There’s a clutch of egg options – benedict, florentine and royale – as well as American pancakes and a hearty full Welsh. But for sheer savoury pleasure, the cockles, bacon and laverbread (a Welsh seaweed delicacy) on toast is hard to beat. THE ROOMS Boutique chic, with dark wood, low lighting and lavish textures. Supremely comfortable super-king beds are dressed in crisp Egyptian cotton, there’s proper milk in the fridge and there are heavenly Aromatherapy Associates toiletries in the limestone bathrooms. For spectacular coastal views, book the Tyddewi (St Davids) suite in the windmill tower. Set over the top two floors, it was once a wartime naval observatory. Today its tiny glazed turret is the perfect spot for a sundowner, offering a 360-degree panorama across the peninsula. COST Doubles from £200 a night, including breakfast. A three-course dinner costs £35-£45, plus wine. Mention delicious. when SPECIAL OFFER booking your stay to enjoy a complimentary bottle of wine on arrival*. twryfelinhotel.com
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The city of Ghent, in northern Belgium’s Flanders region, is celebrated for its medieval art and architecture. The food, though, as Alexander Lobrano discovers, is a lot more up to date – get ready for yuzu and algae-glazed turbot, foraged-botanical gin and beyond-hipsterish beers
St Michael’s Bridge over the River Leie; hop on a tram at Gent-Sint Pieters to the city centre; brunch fare at De Superette; chef Michaël Vrijmoed; Gruut brewer Annick De Splenter; the guests-only Honesty Bar at 1898 The Post; Oak restaurant; Het Waterhuis Aan de Bierkant; shop for locally distilled drops at Proof
The 50-minute train from Brussels deposits travellers at Ghent’s solid mock-medieval train station, built to receive visitors to the city’s 1913 World Exposition. To get a feel for the city, hop on a tram (number 1, 2 or 4) heading for the centre. This 20-minute trip reveals the city’s charms, as you leave behind the more modern outskirts and move back in time to the heart of one of Europe’s most beautifully preserved medieval cities. In medieval times Ghent grew wealthy from the wool trade and this prosperity is reflected in buildings such as Saint Bavo’s Cathedral, a Gothic stunner that was remodelled from the 14th to the 16th centuries. These days Ghent’s medieval heart, centred round Korenmarkt, where grain was once traded, is still a lively place. The prosperous university town has a young population and, as gentrification has made Antwerp and Brussels pricier, creative types have been moving here. Its busy cafés and bars mark its emergence as a serious restaurant town with one of the most daring gastronomic scenes in Europe.
THE HOT CHEFS
For an appetising introduction to Ghent’s cutting-edge food scene, head to chef Kobe Desramaults’ hip 122 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
De Superette (de-superette.be), a bakery and restaurant in what was once a supermarket, in a part of the city centre popular with students and arty young couples. The evening prix-fixe menu changes daily and runs to dishes such as grilled white asparagus with egg, sorrel and whey sauce, excellent soups and superb pizzas from a wood-burning oven. It also serves the best brunch in town, which includes scrambled eggs with bacon and fontina cheese and a creamy chicken vol-au-vent. Chef Desramaults’ other restaurant, Chambre Séparée (chambreseparee.be), won a Michelin star this year and is Ghent’s best big night out for its sleek lounge-bar-like atmosphere, including a turntable stacked with vintage jazz on vinyl. Guests sit around a U-shaped oak counter surrounding the open kitchen, watch the chef and his team at work and enjoy small plates that compose his 20-course tasting menu. These change with the season but hold to avant-garde Flemish comfort food such as North Sea shrimp tartare, potato purée with caviar, wild duck with shiitake mushrooms, and hazelnut tart with lavender. Ghent is attracting a growing number of talented young chefs, too. At Oak (oakgent.be) ItaloBrazilian Marcelo Ballardin, who formerly cooked with Heston Blumenthal, just won his first Michelin star for dishes such as
cured Norwegian salmon with buckthorn berries and Spanish pork with jerusalem artichokes. Chef Michaël Vrijmoed landed two Michelin stars this year at his Restaurant Vrijmoed (vrijmoed.be), a suave dining room in the centre of the city. His modern Belgian cooking elevates traditional ingredients with magical touches – smoked eel with smoked-eel ice cream, yuzu and algae glazed turbot, or gorgonzola sorbet with black garlic and cobnuts.
EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Head for Bodo (bodo.gent), where chef Lore Moerman puts her own spin on traditional Flemish comfort food dishes such as stoemp (mashed potatoes and carrots, which is much better than it sounds) with sausage. Find the best garnaalkroketten (deep-fried croquettes filled with tiny North Sea prawns) at Café Theatre (cafetheatre.be). Pakhuis (pakhuis.be), a popular brasserie in a dramatically renovated warehouse, which pulls crowds with sole meunière and a first-rate steak tartare of Flemish beef.
HIT THE SHOPS
Proof (proof.gent) is a recently opened shop and tasting room that’s a great place to sample some of the excellent new gins being distilled in Flanders. Try Ginderella, flavoured with wild herbs gathered in the city’s parks.
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHLOE CHAPMAN, HELENA DOLBY, TOM JOY, ALEX TEUSCHER/ZANNIER HOTELS, PIET DE KERSGIETER, HEIKKI VERDURME, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Hilde Devolder Chocolatier (hildedevolderchocolatier.be) is Ghent’s most irresistible chocolate shop. Devolder is a master chocolatier, and everything she sells is made here by hand, including her superb ganache chocolates and dried fruits dipped in dark chocolate.
Ghent is a terrific town for tipplers. Stop by the Gruut Stadsbrouwerij (gruut.be) to sample the excellent local beers brewed by Annick De Splenter. She’s revived the local tradition of brewing with a mix of herbs called gruut – a method that dates back to the Middle Ages. Beer lovers will also want to make a beeline for Het Waterhuis Aan de Bierkant (waterhuisaandebierkant. be), a popular local bar on the banks of the River Leie that serves 16 beers on tap and more than 150 bottled. On a sunny day, head for Het Spijker (cafehetspijker.be), one of the oldest bars in Ghent in an old grain warehouse, which serves on a terrace out front, weather permitting. Or try the charming De Planck (deplanck.be), a bar on an old river barge, where you can choose from 125 beers and sip at a table under the trees… Idyllic.
WHERE TO STAY
1898 THE POST HOTEL (zannier.com) was recently opened on two floors of the former main post office, a stylish neo-Gothic 19thcentury building in the heart of the city. Doubles from £161. ONDERBERGEN (hotelonder bergen.be) is a comfortable, reasonably priced and central option. Doubles from £60.
Take the Eurostar from London’s St Pancras International and change at Brussels for Gent-Sint Pieters. Lowest standard fare from £70 return.
COMING NEXT MONTH IN…
Some like it hotÉ ON SALE 31 AUGUST
• Michel Roux Jr shares his secret recipe • Get on-trend with our guide to pickling & fermenting • An Italian weekend feast for sharing from Angela Hartnett • Gill Meller cooks his special lobster spaghetti
PLUS Hazelnut pavlova l spanakopita l gluten-free apple tart l Thai green curry
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FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD No. 56
EYE TO EYE MEDIA LTD, AXE & BOTTLE COURT, 70 NEWCOMEN STREET, LONDON SE1 1YT Subscription enquiries 01858 438424 email@example.com Editorial enquiries 020 7803 4100 Fax 020 7803 4101 Email firstname.lastname@example.org Web deliciousmagazine.co.uk THIS MONTH WE ASKED What’s your favourite holiday dish? Editor Karen Barnes Chargrilled sea bream fresh out of the sea Deputy editor Susan Low Freshly dug, Cape Cod littleneck clams with lemon juice Editorial and features assistant Phoebe Stone Strawberry gelato Food editor Jennifer Bedloe Calamari with a cold lager Deputy food editor Sophie Austen-Smith Gambas pil pil and crusty bread Cookery assistant Olivia Spurrell Pistachio gelato Art director Jocelyn Bowerman Whole lobster and melted butter Art editor Martine Tinney Garlicky prawns, juices mopped up with sourdough Managing editor Les Dunn Barbecued sardines in Spain Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson Cornish pasty on the beach after a swim Senior sub editor Rebecca Almond Moussaka Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie Contributors Xanthe Clay, Lucas Hollweg, James Ramsden
See how much you really know about the world of food with Hugh Thompson’s culinary conundrum. Answers next month
ACROSS 1 6 7 9 10 13 15 17 18 19
Spring onions fêted in Catalonia – great with romesco sauce (7) Traditional Argentinian meat-heavy barbecue (5) Atlantic sea fish from the cod family – has an alternate spelling (7) _____ salts (magnesium sulphate) have beneficial properties (5) Northernmost region, feeding ground for many coldwater fish (6) A young hen, typically under one year old (6) Surname of French sisters who popularised a sticky apple tart (5) Abstinent; someone who denies themselves indulgence (7) Soft tissue at the back of the throat, helps safe swallowing (5) Wild stingers that can be used for tea, soup or salads (7)
DOWN 1 2 3 4 5 8 11 12 14 16
Highly prized Italian cured meat, from the neck of a pig (5) Type of acid found in chard and rhubarb (especially the leaves) (6) Japanese alcoholic beverage made from rice grains (4) Hearty southern French casserole of beans, meat and sausages (9) Mildly spiced curry of meat/veg braised in yogurt or cream (5) Epicurean Roman poet who wrote De Rerum Natura (9) Grape with a sweet floral aroma that works well for sweet wines (6) Dark ale made with roasted malt or barley, hops, water and yeast (5) Filled Mexican tortillas, can be crisp-fried or soft (5) Leavened bread made with yogurt and cooked inside a tandoor (4)
Solution to no. 55 ACROSS: 1. Waldorf 6. Elder 7. Extract 9. Aglio 10. Tobago 13. Zodiac 15. Amuse 17. Dhansak 18. Siena 19. Medlars DOWN: 1. Wheat 2. Orange 3. Feta 4. Edelweiss 5. Broon 8. Tabbouleh 11. Poland 12. Katsu 14. Cakes 16. Edam
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for your files.
AUGUS T 2018
RECIPE INDEX 111 STARTERS, SIDES & NIBBLES
• Bloody mary panzanella 86 • Irio mukimo (mashed potatoes with pumpkin leaves & corn) 54 • Kachumbari (tomato salsa) 52 • Marinated goat’s cheese with garden vegetables 62 • Okonomiyaki (Japanese savoury pancake) 93 • Roasted red peppers with basil 62 • Summer rolls with satay dip 93 • Sweetcorn with pancetta, rosemary & garlic butter 44 • Tear and share feta & herb bread 64 • Tomato coconut sauce 54
MAIN COURSES BEEF & GAME
• Nyama choma (roasted short ribs) 52 • Rabbit burgers with watercress mayonnaise, blue cheese & slow-roast tomatoes 46 • Steak & posh crisp sandwiches 72 • Sticky Mexican-style barbecued beef brisket with quick-pickled onions 104 • Thai steak salad with jasmine rice, sugar snaps & toasted coconut 79
108 FISH & SHELLFISH • Chilli & garlic prawns with sea purslane 33 • Crab mayo, radish & pea rolls 72 • Gratins à la dieppoise with sea bass, scallop, mussels & prawns 36 • Grilled mackerel with tomato, basil & preserved lemon salad 81 • Mussels skordalia 40 • Pan-fried red snapper 52 • Saganaki wraps 72 • Seafood linguine 38 • Sesame tuna steaks with tomato noodle salad & crispy fried chilli & ginger 87 • Vietnamese prawn, quinoa & papaya salad with peanuts 78
PORK • Air-dried ham & Boursin quiche with quail eggs 28 • Better BLT 72 • Chorizo, halloumi & tomato traybake 87 • Chorizo, rocket & red pepper sarnies 72 • Ham hock, pea & apple potato salad with buttermilk dressing 77 • Hot dogs with sauerkraut & crispy fried onions 85 • Quiche lorraine 26
• Chicken & charred corn tacos 43 • Coronation chicken salad with toasted naan croutons 77
46 • Italian chicken ciabatta rolls 72 • Paprika-roast chicken with potatoes & peppers 24 • Persian chicken with spiced yogurt 64
VEGETARIAN • Barley, aubergine & pomegranate salad 62 • Cheesy quesadillas with tomato, pepper & avocado salsa 86 • Falafel & aubergine pittas 72 • Gazpacho 84 • Mexican spiced rice 80 • Miso & maple aubergine ‘steak’ burger 91 • Pasta, beetroot & chard salad with halloumi 78 • Roasted ragù & pappardelle 94 • Roasted summer ratatouille 82 • Shakshuka 83 • Sukuma wiki (kale stew) 52 • Super green rolls 72 • Trofie pasta with watercress, courgette & almonds 108 • Tunisian tabil aubergine with couscous 95
• Brown butter caramel & rye bread gelato 22 • Chai carrot cake with lime & rose frosting 97 • Chocolate juliette 70 • Chocolate swirl meringues, berries & white chocolate sauce 64
70 • Coconut meringue slices 70 • Hazelnut, apple & tahini pastry cigars 111 • Mint chocolate ice cream parfait bombes 22 • No-churn blackcurrant ripple ice-cream sandwiches 23 • Sultana butter tarts 56 • Vanilla baked cheescake 70
• Argentinian salsa criolla 101 • Caper pickle sauce 101 • Easy blackcurrant jam 100 • Mojo verde 101 • Summer peach cocktail 4
COLLECTOR’S EDITION: MEDITERRANEAN KITCHEN
• Chicken, artichoke & spinach filo topped pie • Fattoush salad with chargrilled sea bream • Halloumi fries with honey & sesame • Lamb & aubergine stew with houmous • Lamb kleftico • Patatas bravas • Pissaladière • Prawn saganaki • Stuffed baked tomatoes • Tahini, sesame & fennel seed bread
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a good rant.
Are you flying off for some sun this summer, excited about all that al fresco scoffing and new flavours to discover? There’s a miserable obstacle to get through first, says travel writer Liz Edwards
h, the holiday season, don’t you just love it? We all get a bit giddy at the prospect of a week or two of joyful face-filling in foreign climes, forgetting – because it’s only natural to suppress the traumatic memories – that before culinary adventure must come airport. There you are, all rumbly-tummed about the tapas you’re going to mainline, the lunchtime glasses of rosé from the vineyard down the road, the bowls of pad thai you’ll scoff kerbside or the sea-view pepper-spicy fish tacos… when along comes the airport. For food lovers, too much about the modern airport experience seems calculated to have you calling the whole thing off and instead googling ‘best box sets’ and ‘Deliveroo’. First there’s the 100ml rule. Insiders admit the risk ain’t what it once was. Which makes me think revenue-conscious airports are cynically allowing restrictions to continue, so that if you lack the scout-level be-preparedness required to bring along an empty water bottle and track down a water fountain, you end up dumping the drink you bought en route. Which means you have to buy another one – but only once you’ve done the disorienting,
zig-zagging duty-free walk of shame past pre-10am samples of spirits you thought no longer existed, plus the wickedly expensive confectionery that no longer should. Coming back, of course, that same rule means you’re faced with a choice of bringing any liquid local bounty back in miniatures, or wrapping it in every item of clothing you have and trusting to the weak underarm swing of the baggage handlers. Then, for most of us in cattle class,
There’s no way you’re going to spend the best part of a tenner on the airline’s depressing sandwich there’s post-security food to consider. You’ll need to work out whether you’ll get hungry before you’ve landed, waited in the passport queue, waited at the carousel, waited for a bus/train/taxi to wherever you’re going, and found a restaurant… Answer: of course you will. And unless you cut things so fine you end up Indiana Jones-sliding onto the plane, there’s no way you’re going to spend the best part
of a tenner on the airline’s depressing sandwich. (Longhaul flights occupy their own circle of chicken-or-pasta hell.) So that leaves you the choice between Pret (which will remind you of al desko lunches in the office you’re supposed to be forgetting), a packed lunch (ditto), and the champagne and seafood bar (where you can only afford to eat on business expenses, which means you’re not, therefore, supposed to be forgetting the office). Yes, these days there are airport offerings from Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and James Martin, but seriously, who gets to the airport early enough to sit down for a meal? Even if I were in transit and waiting hours for a connection, I’m not sure I’d enjoy Gordon’s Plane Food properly; I’d still be in the grip of low-level but rising anxiety about missing my flight. Turn your back for a second and those departure boards flip from ‘await gate information’ to ‘gate closing’ faster than an unwatched pear turns from rock to mush. Or maybe I have it all wrong and this is a cunning airport-authority plan to make our holidays even more yearned-for; our arrivals abroad even more joyous. I doubt it, though. I suspect the problem’s terminal. Do you agree with Liz or do you take a different view? Tell us at email@example.com and we’ll print the best replies
H2O LON SEA C-CL WATER FOUNTAIN
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
Why airports ruin my appetite for travel
THE COLLECTORâ€™S EDITION
E X TR A PAGES OF SU M M ER R ECIPES
BRIMMING WITH SEASIDE SUNSHINE
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Experts tell us that the Mediterranean diet is one of the world’s healthiest. For me, that’s just an added bonus because the main attractions are the fresh, sun-warmed flavours of simply prepared ingredients used in time-honoured recipes. Mediterranean eating is about more than the food, though… With this Collector’s Edition I hope to evoke warm evenings on a vine-draped terrace with good rosé and lively chat. Throw in a few of my takes on Med favourites and good times lie ahead. JEN BEDLOE, ACTING FOOD EDITOR
Chicken, artichoke and spinach filo topped pie
MED FISH SUPPER
Fattoush salad with chargrilled sea bream
ALL IN A WHIRL
Tahini, sesame and fennel seed bread
BEST CHIPS EVER
Halloumi fries with honey and sesame
Patatas bravas SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 15-20 MIN
Make the sauce to the end of step 1,
MAKE AHEAD cool completely, then cover and chill for up to 3 days.
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 1 onion, roughly chopped • 80g chargrilled peppers (available from Sainsbury’s), drained • 2 fat garlic cloves, sliced • 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper • 1 lemon • 350g tomato passata (rustica or regular) • 1.2kg waxy potatoes, such as charlotte • Light olive oil or sunflower oil for frying • Sea salt flakes • 2 fresh rosemary sprigs (optional) • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped • Aioli to serve (optional) 1 Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a deep frying pan or large sauté pan and gently cook the onion, peppers and garlic with a couple of pinches of salt for 10 minutes or until softened. Stir in the paprika, cayenne and a squeeze of lemon juice. Stir for 1-2 minutes until fragrant, then pour in the
passata and simmer gently for 20 minutes until thick. Set aside to cool a little, then use a stick blender to whizz the sauce to a purée (or, if you prefer, leave it chunky). 2 Meanwhile, heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Peel and cut the potatoes into quarters, then cut into 2cm chunks. Put in a pan of cold salted water, bring to the boil, then simmer for 6-8 minutes until tender. Drain well, tip onto a tray lined with kitchen paper and dry well. Toss in a shallow roasting tin with the light olive/sunflower oil and sea salt. Add the rosemary, if using, then roast for 15-20 minutes until golden and crisp, turning once or twice. 3 Spoon half the brava sauce onto a serving platter, then top with the potatoes. Spoon over a little more sauce and sprinkle over the parsley to serve. If you like, serve with a dollop of aioli (for a cheat’s version, mix finely chopped garlic and a squeeze of lemon juice into shop-bought mayonnaise). PER SERVING (FOR 6) 296kcals, 9.8g fat (1.4g saturated), 5.7g protein, 43.1g carbs (7g sugars), 0.1g salt, 5.9g fibre WINE NOTE Pick a fruity dry verdejo white or a young and sprightly Spanish rosado.
• A few fresh dill sprigs, chopped • Small bunch fresh tarragon, chopped • A few fresh mint sprigs, leaves picked and finely chopped • 100ml white wine • 5 filo pastry sheets • Olive oil for brushing 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Cut the chicken breasts horizontally in half to create 8 thinner fillets. Put in a deep, wide frying or sauté pan with the shallots and garlic, then cover with the milk. Over a medium heat, bring up to a simmer, then turn the heat down to its lowest heat so the milk is barely bubbling. Season with a little salt and pepper and poach for 15 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. 2 Once the chicken is cooked, transfer to a board and use 2 forks to shred into chunks. In a small bowl, mix the butter into the flour. Skim any scum off the surface of the poaching milk, then bring back to a simmer. Add the butter and flour mixture a tablespoon at a time, whisking, until the milk has thickened. Season with salt and pepper. 3 Stir the chicken, artichokes, spinach, herbs and white wine into the sauce. Spoon into a pie dish and top with scrunched up filo sheets. Brush the filo with olive oil, then bake for 35-40 minutes until golden and bubbling. PER SERVING 463kcals, 20.6g fat (7.9g saturated), 32.9g protein, 31g carbs (7.5g sugars), 1.4g salt, 4.7g fibre WINE NOTE Look to a southern Italian or Sicilian white such as a greco or fiano.
Chicken, artichoke and spinach filo topped pie SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN
Assemble the pie a day ahead, then
MAKE AHEAD cover and chill. Add 5-10 minutes
extra to the baking time, making sure the pie is piping hot all the way through. Freeze the pie filling in food bags for up to 2 months. Defrost overnight in the fridge, then top with scrunched filo and bake as above. • 4 skinless free-range chicken breasts • 2 banana shallots, chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 750ml whole milk • 40g butter, softened • 40g plain flour • 2 x 180g packs chargrilled artichokes, drained (from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose) • 150g baby leaf spinach
Tahini, sesame and fennel seed bread SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN, PLUS PROVING TIME
• 300g strong white bread flour, plus extra to dust • 1 tsp fine sea salt • ½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed in a pestle and mortar • 180ml lukewarm water • 7g fast-action dried yeast • 2 tsp sugar • 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve
• 2 tbsp tahini • 1 tsp runny honey • 50g butter, melted • 2 tbsp sesame seeds, soaked in 2 tbsp milk or water • 2 tbsp caraway seeds, soaked in 2 tbsp milk or water TO SERVE
• Freshly chopped fresh parsley and mint • Handful shelled pistachios, chopped • Strained greek yogurt • Mixed olives (we love Unearthed Olives with Rosemary and Black Pepper or Market Olive Mix, from Waitrose and Ocado)
Lamb kleftico SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 4 HOURS 55 MIN, PLUS MARINATING AND RESTING
Marinate the lamb up to 2 days
1 Put the flour in a mixing bowl, then stir in the salt and crushed fennel seeds. Put the warm water in a measuring jug and stir in the yeast and sugar. Set aside for a few minutes until starting to froth. 2 Pour the yeast mixture onto the flour. Mix using a wooden spoon until it starts to clump together, then use your hands to pinch and knead it until it starts to form a dough. Tip onto a lightly floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth and starts to feel elastic. Wipe out the mixing bowl and brush with olive oil, then put the dough in, cover with cling film and set aside to rise somewhere draft free for 1-2 hours – it should double in size. 3 Once the bread has risen, combine the tahini and honey in a small mixing bowl. Tip the dough out onto on a lightly floured work surface, then stretch and pull it into a large rectangle shape – use a rolling pin to help you – until about 1cm thick. Spread the tahini mixture over the surface of the bread, then roll up to enclose the filling inside a long sausage shape. Roll over the dough with your hands to make sure it’s an even thickness. Coil the dough into a spiral and transfer to a non-stick baking sheet/tray – tuck the end under the main coil to stop it coming apart when baking. Brush all over with melted butter, drain the sesame and caraway seeds and scatter/brush over the surface of the dough. Cover with cling film and set aside to prove for 30 minutes. 4 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Bake for 20-25 minutes on the middle shelf until golden brown and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped underneath. Cool, then serve scattered with the herbs and nuts, with yogurt and antipasti olives. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 381kcals, 19.6g fat (6.3g saturated), 9.5g protein, 40.5g carbs (3g sugars), 1g salt, 2.7g fibre WINE NOTE A glass of cool Mediterranean vermentino to match the aniseed flavour.
MAKE AHEAD ahead, cover and keep in the fridge.
You’ll need to bring the lamb back to room temperature before roasting (allow at least 1-2 hours). FOOD If you’re not a fan of anchovies, TEAM’S replace them in the marinade with TIP an extra tablespoon of capers. • 3 anchovy fillets in oil (available from Waitrose) – see tip • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 3 tbsp capers in brine, drained and rinsed • 1 tsp dried oregano • 1 tsp dried mint • 1 tsp dried marjoram • 1 tsp dried thyme • 3 bay leaves • 5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 1.8kg bone-in leg of British lamb • 3 tbsp clear honey • Fresh oregano and thyme leaves to garnish FOR THE POTATOES
• Olive oil for frying • 2 onions, thinly sliced • 1.25kg maris piper potatoes • 120g sun-blush tomatoes • 150g pitted green olives (available from Morrisons), chopped • 350ml hot chicken stock • 1 lemon, halved
1 Put the anchovies, 3 tbsp olive oil, capers, dried herbs, bay leaves, garlic, lemon zest and juice and plenty of salt and ground black pepper in a food processor, then whizz until smooth. (Alternatively, use a stick blender in a jug or pound in a pestle and mortar.) Spoon the mixture onto the lamb and rub it all over the meat. Leave to marinate in a large food bag or on a tray, covered, for at least 4 hours (preferably overnight) in the fridge – see Make Ahead. 2 Heat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/ gas 3. For the potatoes, heat a glug of olive oil in a frying pan and cook the onions over a gentle heat for 15 minutes or until soft and lightly caramelised. 3 Meanwhile, peel and slice the potatoes as thinly as possible (using a mandoline, if you have one), then toss with the onions, tomatoes and olives. Tip into a big roasting tin (about 6cm longer than the leg of lamb) pour over the stock, squeeze over the lemon halves and add the squeezed-out shells to the tin. Sit the lamb on top, making sure all the marinade stays with it. Cover with a sheet of baking paper, then a layer of foil. 4 Roast for 4½ hours, remove the foil and baking paper and drizzle over the honey, then return to the oven, uncovered, for 15 minutes to brown. Remove the lamb from the tin and set aside on a board or platter to rest. Return the tin with the potatoes to the oven for 10 minutes or until golden and lightly crisped. 5 Sit the lamb on top of the potatoes, scatter with fresh oregano and thyme, spoon over the cooking juices, then serve with seasonal greens. PER SERVING 823kcals, 42.9g fat (14.5g saturated), 55.5g protein, 50.3g carbs (10.6g sugars), 1.4g salt, 6.8g fibre WINE NOTE Rich Greek reds made from the xinomavro grape suit kleftiko well, as does California’s gutsy red zinfandel. →
Halloumi fries with honey and sesame SERVES 8 AS A NIBBLE. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Make to the end of step 1 up to MAKE AHEAD 4 hours in advance, then cover the halloumi loosely with cling film and chill until ready to fry. FOOD Use up any leftover herb/spice TEAM’S mix by scattering over grilled TIP meats or salads. • 2 x 225g packs halloumi, cut into fingers • 1 large free-range egg, beaten • 75g fine semolina or polenta • ¾ tsp dried mint • 1 tsp dried oregano • 1 tsp sumac • 1 tbsp black and white sesame seeds • Vegetable oil for frying • Clear honey for drizzling • Small handful fresh mint, leaves picked and chopped (optional) • 200g natural yogurt • 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses • 1 lemon, cut into wedges 1 Heat the oven to 120°C/100°C fan/ gas ½. Toss the halloumi in the beaten egg to coat, then in the semolina or polenta. Lay out on a
baking sheet lined with non-stick baking paper until ready to fry (see Make Ahead). 2 Mix the dried mint, dried oregano, sumac and sesame seeds with a little freshly ground black pepper and set aside. 3 Pour about 2cm oil into a large, deep heavy-based frying pan. Put on a mediumhigh heat and, once the oil has started to shimmer, carefully fry the halloumi, in batches, for 1 minute on each side or until golden. Keep each batch warm on a baking tray in the oven, loosely covered with foil. 4 To serve, pile up the fries on a board or serving plate (or serve them on the baking tray), drizzle with honey, sprinkle with the dried herb mix and the mint (if using), then add a generous drizzle of the yogurt and pomegranate molasses. Tuck in a few lemon wedges to squeeze. Eat straightaway. PER SERVING 329kcals, 21.6g fat (11.7g saturated), 15.3g protein, 18.3g carbs (5.4g sugars), 1.5g salt, 0.5g fibre WINE NOTE Crisp Greek whites would be refreshing but the honey calls for an off-dry chenin blanc, such as vouvray demi-sec.
Mezze star dish: Lamb and aubergine stew with houmous SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 1½ HOURS
Make the stew to the end of step 4,
MAKE AHEAD then cool and keep in an airtight
container in the fridge for up to 2 days. Reheat thoroughly to serve. Or freeze the stew in an airtight container or bag for up to 3 months. The houmous will keep for up to 24 hours, covered, in the fridge. Bring to room temperature to serve. Baharat (meaning spices in Arabic) KNOWHOW is an aromatic, warm spice mix made up of black peppercorns, coriander seeds, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, cumin, cardamom and nutmeg (no two recipes are the same). • Olive oil for frying • 750g British lamb neck fillet, cut into chunky strips • 2 aubergines, halved and cut into strips • 1 onion, finely chopped • 5 dried figs, roughly chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 1½ tbsp baharat (from Sainsbury’s, Waitrose and Ocado) – see Know-how • 1 tsp ground cumin • 375ml hot chicken stock • 125g mixed olives (such as Morrisons Mediterranean Olive Trio), roughly chopped
• Handful toasted flaked almonds • Small handful each fresh mint, parsley and dill, coarsely chopped • Pomegranate seeds • Flatbreads to serve FOR THE HOUMOUS
• 660g jar chickpeas, drained and rinsed • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 4 tbsp tahini (widely available) • Juice 1 lemon • 50ml olive oil • 125ml ice-cold water 1 Heat a splash of oil in a large, deep frying pan with a tight-fitting lid and fry the lamb, in batches, over a high heat until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on a plate. 2 In the same pan, fry the aubergine in batches, adding a little more oil if needed, until golden and just cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on another plate. 3 Reduce the heat and cook the onion until softened (about 10 minutes). Stir in the figs, garlic and spices, then cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. 4 Return the lamb to the pan, stirring to coat well in the spices, then pour over the hot stock. Bring to a boil over a high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 1½ hours or until the lamb is very tender. For the last 10 minutes of so of the cooking time, stir in most of the aubergines and 75g of the olives, leaving off the lid so the sauce has a chance to thicken. Taste and season the stew with salt and black pepper (be mindful that the houmous and olives will add a little saltiness). 5 Meanwhile, make the houmous. In a food processor or mini chopper, pulse together the chickpeas, garlic, tahini and lemon juice until smooth. With the processor running, pour in the olive oil in a steady stream along with the ice-cold water until the houmous is very smooth. Taste and season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and more lemon. 6 Spread the houmous over the base of a large serving dish and spoon over the hot lamb and aubergine stew, top with the remaining aubergine and olives, then scatter over the almonds, herbs and pomegranate seeds. Serve the stew with flatbreads for scooping. PER SERVING 568kcals, 32.9g fat (7.5g saturated), 37.8g protein, 24.4g carbs (12.9g sugars), 1.1g salt, 11.4g fibre WINE NOTE Juicy, bright and ripe New World reds hit the mark here, especially Aussie or Chilean merlots. →
FULL OF MIDDLE EASTERN PROMISE
Lamb and aubergine stew with houmous
Prawn saganaki SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 12-15 MIN
Make the tomato sauce up to the
MAKE AHEAD end of step 1, then cover and chill
for up to a day. Put in the oven to warm through before adding the prawns, then continue with the recipe. FOOD If you like, add queen scallops TEAM’S and squid rings to the prawns. TIP Use straight from frozen or defrost in the fridge or under cold running water in the sink. Cheaper feta is aged in salt water KNOWHOW in airtight steel tins. Barrel-aged feta is stored for at least 3 months in wooden barrels. These allow the air to permeate as the cheese matures with help from the natural bacteria and yeasts from the wood. This gives the feta a creamy texture and rounded but punchy taste. • 4-5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 1 red onion, chopped • 2 fat garlic cloves, crushed • 5cm fresh ginger, grated • ½ tsp Aleppo chilli flakes (or a pinch of regular chilli flakes)
• 350g jar tomato passata rustico, crushed tomatoes or tomato passata • 50g pitted black olives (available from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose), sliced • 4 sun-dried tomatoes (available from Sainsbury’s), chopped • 1 tsp dried oregano • Handful basil leaves (greek if possible), plus extra to garnish • 2 fresh mint sprigs, leaves picked, large ones finely shredded, a few small leaves reserved whole to garnish • 1 lemon • 1 tsp sugar • 20-24 sustainable large raw shell-on king/tiger prawns (see tip) • 200g pack barrel-aged feta (see Know-how) 1 Heat 3 tbsp of the extra-virgin olive oil in a shallow flameproof casserole or ovenproof skillet pan. Cook the onion, garlic and ginger with a couple of pinches of salt for 10 minutes over a low heat or until softened, stirring every so often. 2 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Stir in the chilli flakes, passata/tomatoes, sliced olives, sun-dried tomatoes, dried and fresh herbs, a squeeze of lemon juice and the sugar. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Leave to simmer over a low heat for 10 minutes. Check the seasoning once more, adding more lemon and salt and black pepper as required (don’t over-salt the dish as the feta will be salty). 3 Nestle the prawns on top of the sauce, crumble over the feta and drizzle with the remaining olive oil, then bake for 12-15 minutes until the prawns are cooked through and the feta is tinged golden brown. Scatter with the reserved herbs and add another grind of black pepper to serve. PER SERVING 373kcals, 24.9g fat (9g saturated), 23.8g protein, 11.8g carbs (10.8g sugars), 2.1g salt, 3g fibre WINE NOTE Chill a light and citrussy southern French picpoul de pinet.
Pissaladière SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN
Make and cook the tart a day
MAKE AHEAD ahead, cover well with cling film,
then chill. Reheat in a hot oven for 5 minutes to serve. FOOD If you don’t like anchovies or are TEAM’S veggie, scatter a few sun-blush TIPS tomatoes evenly over the onions. In step 1 it’s important to be patient and make sure the onions don’t burn. They need to turn translucent first before they begin to turn golden. • Oil for frying • 25g butter • 900g onions, finely sliced • 2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, plus extra to serve • 320g sheet ready-rolled puff pastry • 2 tbsp dijon mustard • 150g anchovy fillets, drained (available from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose) • 16 black olives (available from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose), pitted and halved 1 Heat the oil and butter in a very large frying pan over a medium heat until bubbling. Add the sliced onions with a pinch of salt and cook for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until completely softened and caramelised. 2 Once the onions have caramelised, stir in the thyme leaves and cook for 1 minute more, then transfer to a bowl to cool slightly. Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. 3 Unroll the puff pastry, still attached to its paper, onto a large baking sheet. Using a sharp knife, score a border 1.5cm from the edge of the pastry. Brush the mustard over the pastry inside the border, then spoon over the onions and spread evenly inside the border. Arrange the anchovies over the onions in a lattice, creating a diamond pattern (see right), then put an olive half in the middle of each diamond. Bake for 25-30 minutes until golden and crisp, then transfer to a board, scatter with fresh thyme leaves and serve in slices. PER SERVING (FOR 10) 211kcals, 12.4g fat (5.6g saturated), 5.2g protein, 18g carbs (5.8g sugars), 2g salt, 3.1g fibre WINE NOTE Salty anchovies in pissaladière call for a cold, pale pink, bone-dry and refreshing rosé from sunny Provence. →
IT’S FRENCH FOR PIZZA
• Bunch fresh parsley, chopped • 1 tbsp za’atar (see Know-how) • ½ tbsp sumac • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling • 3 whole sustainable sea bream (make sure they’re gutted and scaled – ask the fishmonger to do this for you)
Fattoush salad with chargrilled sea bream SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Make the feta and yogurt mix
MAKE AHEAD a day ahead and keep covered
in the fridge. Za’atar is a fragrant, tangy and KNOWHOW nutty Middle Eastern herb and spice blend that combines dried thyme (za’atar is also arabic for wild thyme), toasted sesame seeds, dried marjoram and sumac. FOOD If you can’t find mini or lebanese TEAM’S cucumbers it’s fine to use a regular TIPS cucumber but use only a half, deseeded and cut into chunks. Serve ricotta-stuffed peppers (from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose) before the fish for an easy nibble with drinks. • 200g feta • 150g greek yogurt • 1 small garlic clove, crushed • 1 tbsp clear honey (preferably Greek) • 250g cherry tomatoes, halved • 200g radishes, quartered • 3-4 mini/lebanese cucumbers, sliced into 1cm rounds (see tips) • 1 red onion, finely sliced • 2 white pitta breads, toasted and torn into small chunks • Bunch fresh mint, leaves picked and chopped
1 In a food processor, whizz the feta, greek yogurt, garlic and honey with some salt and pepper until smooth (or mash together in a mixing bowl) – see Make Ahead. Spoon into a large shallow bowl and use the back of the spoon to spread it over the base. 2 In another bowl, put the cherry tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers, onion, pitta chunks, chopped mint and parsley, za’atar, sumac, lemon zest and juice and olive oil, then toss everything together well. 3 Heat the grill to high. Put the sea bream on a baking sheet lined with foil. Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper, then drizzle with olive oil and season with salt. Grill for 8-10 minutes, turning halfway, until the skin is blistered and the flesh is just cooked. 4 Spoon the fattoush salad over the feta and yogurt mixture in the bowl, then serve with the grilled sea bream alongside. PER SERVING 405kcals, 19.7g fat (7.2g saturated), 34.1g protein, 21.6g carbs (8.4g sugars), 1.5g salt, 2.7g fibre WINE NOTE The lemony Greek white assyrtiko scores with this, as does a Loire sauvignon blanc such as a sancerre.
Stuffed baked tomatoes: mezze dish SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN
Complete the recipe, then cool,
MAKE AHEAD cover and chill for up to 3 days.
Reheat the stuffed tomatoes until piping hot all the way through. • 300ml vegetable stock • 100g quinoa and bulgur wheat (if you can’t find a mixed pack use 50g of each or 100g quinoa or 100g bulgur) • Olive oil • ¼ tsp ground cumin • ¼ tsp ground coriander • 1 onion, finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 6 large beef tomatoes • 50g sun-dried tomatoes (available from Sainsbury’s) • 100g Unearthed Olives with Rosemary & Black Pepper (from Waitrose and Ocado), roughly chopped • 100g chargrilled artichokes, roughly chopped (available from Sainsbury’s, Morrisons and Waitrose) • 2 tbsp rose harissa • 4 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted in a dry frying pan • Large handful each fresh parsley, mint and oregano, roughly chopped • 75ml dry white wine • 50g unsalted butter, softened 1 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. In a saucepan, bring the stock up to the boil, then tip in the mixed quinoa/bulgur wheat, a glug of oil, the spices, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring back up to a fast simmer and cook until tender and all the liquid is absorbed (top up with a little more boiling water if needed). Take off the heat. 2 Heat a glug of olive oil in a frying pan and cook the onion for 5 minutes until beginning to soften. Add the garlic and continue cooking for 2 minutes. 3 Cut a 2cm slice off the top of each beef tomato (set aside), then use a teaspoon to scoop out the pulp inside. Put the pulp in a sieve set over a bowl to drain away any excess water. Roughly chop what’s left in the sieve and add to the pan with the onion and garlic. Increase the heat and continue cooking until the mixture has reduced and thickened (about 5-10 minutes). 4 Add the sun-dried tomatoes, chopped olives, chopped artichoke hearts, harissa and most of the pine nuts and chopped herbs to the pan. Stir to combine. Tip in the cooked grains and stir again. 5 Put the hollowed-out beef tomatoes in a lightly oiled baking dish and fill each one with the grain/veg mixture. Put the tomato tops back on, then pour over the wine and dot the butter over the tomatoes. Bake for 20-25 minutes, basting half way through with the cooking juices, until the tomatoes are tender. Garnish with the remaining pine nuts and herbs, then serve with a crisp mixed salad and crusty bread for mopping. PER SERVING 314kcals, 21.5g fat (5.8g saturated), 6.4g protein, 18.7g carbs (7.5g sugars), 1.3g salt, 5.8g fibre WINE NOTE Zesty sauvignon blanc; a fruity southern French pays d’oc is best of all.
RECIPES THE FOOD TEAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING LUIS PERAL
A SUN-DRENCHED FEAST
Stuffed baked tomatoes â€“ serve as part of a mezze with olives, artichokes and the lamb and houmous dish
HOW TO MASTER
With great ingredients, it doesn’t take much to boost the flavour of your dishes and give them that authentic sun-drenched taste. Here’s our guide to adding a touch of the Med to your food
3 WAYS TO USE ANCHOVIES (for people who think they don’t like them)
Whizz or pound marinated anchovies to a paste with some freshly chopped rosemary, a splash of olive oil and a spoonful of capers. Season with black pepper, then brush over barbecued lamb or beef steaks. For an umami punch, whizz marinated anchovies with pitted black olives, lemon zest and juice, freshly chopped oregano and a splash of olive oil to make an easy tapenade. Spoon onto crostini or use to stuff pork fillet. Gently fry onions with a few anchovies, stir in cream and simmer until thickened. Spread on shop-bought pizza bases, top with grated parmesan and torn mozzarella and scatter with chopped tomatoes and black olives. Bake until crisp, then scatter with basil.
K NOW YOUR OLI V ES Can you tell your kalamata from taggiasca? You can now…
CALIFORNIA (AKA MISSION)
USA Mild with a grassy taste
Turkey Firm and orange hued with a big stone
Greece Shiny skin, rich and savoury
France One of the finest olives; mild tasting
Peru Juicy with a tart, grape-like flavour
Italy Small, sweet, varies from blond to deep violet
NOCELLARA DE BELICE
Spain Soft and green with a salty flavour
Italy Mild with a buttery taste
Greece Crisp with a mellow flavour
SKILL TO MASTER Fresh tomato sauce 1 Cut small crosses in the bases of 1kg ripe tomatoes, drop into a pan of boiling water, leave for 30 seconds, then lift out with a slotted spoon. When cool enough to handle, peel and roughly chop. 2 Heat a glug of oil in a sauté pan and fry a small chopped onion with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes until softened. Stir in 2 chopped garlic cloves, add the tomatoes, then simmer for at least 30 minutes or until you have a rich and thick sauce consistency. 3 Season to taste with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice. Add chopped fresh basil, if you like.
HOW TO ADD INSTANT MED FLAVOURS TO MIDWEEK DISHES EASY GARNISH
Fry parma ham slices in a dry frying pan until crisp. Cool, then crumble into a bowl with finely chopped rosemary, grated lemon zest and black pepper. Sprinkle over pasta bakes, soups and salads. • Waitrose Parma Ham, £3.09
Finely chop ½ pack drained artichokes, then mix with a handful of mashed peas, chopped mint and the grated zest and juice of ½ lemon. Serve with grilled meat/fish. • Sainsbury’s Chargrilled Artichokes, £3
Whizz olives and feta with a handful of fresh basil and the zest and juice of 1 lemon. Cut a pocket in 2 chicken breasts, stuff with the mix, then bake. • Waitrose Greek Olives with Feta, £3.73
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