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ZAGREB February - March 2012

Carnival season

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Replace those winter blues with carnival colours and celebrations

N°64 - complimentary copy

A feast

Of cultural activities that will blossom up your day!

ZAGREB CARD ZAGREB CARD is your irreplaceable travel companion in Zagreb, valid for 72 hours, or 24 hours, and opens many doors to the city of Zagreb major sights and its surroundings! Your ZAGREB CARD is avaliable online at www.zagrebcard. or in most Zagreb hotels as well as Tourist Information Centres. We hope that ZAGREB CARD will make your stay in Zagreb more interesting and pleasant!.





Contents Arriving in Zagreb


Your first view of the capital city

The Basics


More than just climate stats (not much)



Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events


Interesting and boring stuff included

Carnival Time


Be who you want to be!

Where to stay


A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife


Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome

That scrumptious looking cupcake is not exactly what it seems; it is in-fact handcrafted soap that has been made by members of the friendly and enthusiastic Sapunomanija crew.

Cafés Easily the best scene in the world! Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

29 30

What to see All those things you mustn’t miss


Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons


Getting around Save on shoe leather




Helping you get rid of that extra cash



Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

44 45

Maps & Index Transport map Street index City centre map City map Country map

47 47 48 50 51

This dimensional photo is taken from the exhibition ‘Fantastic scrapbook’ where the photographer Ana Šesto captures that very moment in time, there one second, gone the next.

February - March 2012


Foreword So you have just arrived to Zagreb and you’re walking through the city centre, you come across a juggling court jester, with effort you avoid him and as you turn, ‘Ouch!’ a gallant Knight in shining armor pokes his way through the busy crowd, you stumble only to be helped up by a Princess! Now you can’t get that smile off your face! Is it all a dream? Not at all, in fact your timing is perfect as its Carnival season and you simply have to attend the Zagreb Carnival which is a hit in this month’s edition. Don’t be shy to fancy dress. Besides the carnival there is so much on that we don’t even know where to begin. There are festivals, international concerts and orchestras. As for exhibitions, does the name Šime Vulas mean anything? Film buffs have the annual ZagrebDox festival which has become tradition now. Don’t forget to check out our restaurant pages before Valentine’s Day if you’re unfamiliar in where to dine with your beloved other half. So take off the winter mittens as the season of spring is here.

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Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Grafing Published 6 times per year

Zagreb In Your Pocket

It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geleen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver many more new Pockets, including our first guides in Italy (Cagliari) and Belgium (Ghent). The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook ( inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter ( inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Kornelia Kovačević Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Zagreb County Tourist Board Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Arriving in zagreb Tourist information


Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51,, Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65,, www.tzzz. hr.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, hr, QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

February - March 2012





Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hun­gary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear wa­ters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a dis­tance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central Eu­ro­pean Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm









-10 -20






Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17.50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 8kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free) 10,20kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,63kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8.85 €1.63 €2.37 €0.95 €0.68 €2.99 €1.09 €1.37 €4.14 €1.37 €1.35 €1.27 €0.41 €1.37

Exchange rates (as of 14. 02. 2012): US$1 = 5,8kn €1 =7,6kn £1 = 9,1kn


All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, For further details or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.


The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a trans­former to run electrical appliances.


These days Croatia is fairly mono­tone in re­li­gious terms. Having al­ ways ex­isted on the frontiers of three religions; Catho­lic, Orthodox and Mus­lim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the popu­lation has be­ come over­whelmingly Catho­lic with the 2001 Cen­sus re­cording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.


If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.


Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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Tošo Dabac 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

February - March 2012



Culture & Events

Rock & Pop Concerts

Freaky Friday - Extreme Body Art in Zagreb, 13.04, Jedinstvo Factory

16.02 Thursday

Chris Rea

I-4, Boćarski dom, Prisavlje 2, A troubadour in music, Chris Rea just gets better with age and this singer/ guitarist brings his Santo Spirito Project to town. Rea has topped world charts with tracks such as ‘The Road to Hell (Pt 2)’, ‘Fool if you think it’s over’, and others. His rasping voice and string work has seen him become a modern day rhythm and blues revelation. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 290 - 320kn available at the

18.02 Saturday

The Bambi Molesters

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Croatian surf-rock band that have gained international acclaim from playing at the New Zealand Festival to countries across Europe! Upon the release of their new album ‘As the dark wave swells’, the band performs to their devoted fans with what is always a vigorous and jubilant gig. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 55 - 70kn.

02.03 Friday


E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. These Belgium boys bring on their indie rock/alternative rock sound with touches of folk/punk and jazz to add divergence to their sound. Hits such as ‘The Architect’, ‘Slow’, and ‘Instant Street’ are highlights amongst fans with front man Tom Barman still living the dream. Q Tickets 120 - 130kn available at the

18.03 Sunday

Richie Kotzen & Porn Queen

I-3, Bogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, www. Guitar geeks, blues and rock/metal fans can now bear witness to this virtuoso on strings that once played with the likes of glam rock giants Poison and Mr Big. Kotzen’s spell bounding solos are full of maturity and improvisation, not to mention his commendable singing. Punters can expect a night of vintage rock with explorations into blues, jazz, soul and funk. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 135 - 150kn available at the Boogaloo (Ulica grada Vukovara 68), Dirty Old Shop (Tratinska 22), Kovač (Masarykova 14), Punkt 13 (Ilica 14), Octopus (Gundulićeva 37), Dancing Bear (Gundulićeva 7), Maldoror (Lopašićeva 3).

06.04 Friday - 07.04 Saturday

Eric Sardinas

K-2, Hard Place, Šubićeva 55/1, This US guitarist of Cuban descent returns to Zagreb once again. Sardinas is known for his ambidextrous playing (artistry of playing with both hands) but also for the series of materials that he uses to combine electric blues, country and rock. Q Tickets 90 - 150kn available at the Hard Place (Šubićeva 55/1) and Rockmark ( Berislavićeva 13).

11.03 Sunday


I-5, Pavilion 9, Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15. A collision of alternative rock, country, pop, and indie best describes Wilco’s sound and music. Jeff Tweedy continues to lead the group and he is known for his stellar interaction with the crowd. In support of their 8th LP, ‘The Whole Love’, the Zagreb audience get to see one of the best US acts to come out in the 90’s. Q Tickets 200 - 220kn available at the Aquarius Music Shops (Varšavska 13, Vlaška 44, Maksimirska 16) and Dirty Old Shop (Tratinska 22).

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Chris Rea

Culture & Events Jazz&Blues Concerts 15.02 Wednesday

Tamara Obrovac Quartet

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, Amalgamate originality and pureness, fuse it with droplets of jazz with an ancient ethno-Istrian dialect, whip some bow and string instruments together and you have Tamar Obrovac. This Croatian flutist and singer teams up with some former members to yet again, carve the path to another new musical expedition. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70kn.

15.03 Thursday

ZZ (Zjača - Zanchini Quartet) - The Way We Talk

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, The ZZ stands for zest and zip with a great deal of jazz, classical and world music perfectly poised in between. Zjača is an ace on guitar and Zanchini the true improviser on accordion; they are joined by Martin Gjakonovski on double bass and Adam Nussbaum on drums in an innovative project that has received much attention. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.

01.04 Sunday

HGM Zagreb Jazz Orchestra feat. Wolfgang Muthspiel

Metropolitan in Lisinski - Ernani

28.02 Tuesday

Giacomo Puccini’s - The Triptych at the Royal Opera House London

Cinestar Branimir Centre, Branimirova 29, Cinestar Avenue Mall (Avenija Dubrovnik 16), www.blitz-cinestar. hr. Puccini spread his lyrical wings in writing these three oneact operas called ‘The Triptych’. It is composed of ‘The Cape’, ‘Sister Angelica’ and ‘Gianni Schicchi’. Puccini shines in his musical orchestration converting sinners to saints in a night of drama, love, and exuberant delight. Q Starts at 20:00.

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, One of Austria’s acclaimed guitarist/ composers known for his dazzling technique and daring musicality. Muthspiel embraces the jazz and classical genres and is making a name for himself across the Atlantic. He joins the HGM Jazz Orchestra in what is said to be a gleaming show of imagination coming from a man who is in his element. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.

11.03 Sunday

Classical Music Concerts

13.03 Tuesday

23.03 Friday

Cinestar Branimir Centre, Branimirova 29; Cinestar Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, w w w.blit Conductor Victor Pablo Perez orchestrates this melodramatic four act opera depicting vivid scenes of young bohemians living in Paris. It consists of the classic aria ‘Si, mi chiamano Mimi’ and it is a tale of love, cruelty, dreams, and disappointments which can be seen on widescreen, live at Cinestar.

Ivo Pogorelić

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, This supreme Croatian pianist has won prestigious awards throughout the world. From New York’s Carnegie Hall to the first classical pianist ever to be invited to Kuwait, his recitals of Bach, Mozart, Beethoven and all the other greats have bought him much praise as he returns to Zagreb to perform in front of his home audience. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 500kn.

Le Corsaire

C-1, Movieplex Cinema, Nova Ves 17, www.movieplex. hr. A three act performance for ballet admirers at Movieplex. Le Corsaire is unique as it has many celebrated passages which are often performed independently, the scene Le jardin animé and the so-called Le Corsaire pas de deux, are among classical ballet’s most famous and performed excerpts.

La Bohéme at Teatro Liceu Barcelona

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 09.10 2011 Sunday - 24.06 2012 Sunday

Ballet from Bolshoi - Live at Movieplex cinema

C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77, 486 07 76,, www.movieplex. hr. Be a par t of the 500 cinemas worldwide that will have live to air coverage of the Bolshoi Ballet. The big screen, impressive audio and visual effects will present six spectacular performances from the Russian Theatre. See the likes of Nikolay Tsiskaridze, Svetlana Zakharova and Mariva Alexandrova light up the stage with their exquisite talents.

25.02 Saturday

Metropolitan in Lisinski - Ernani

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, Dubbed as a drama lirico, Giuseppe Verdi’s four act opera is menacing indeed as the once bandit Ernani fights day and night for the hand of his true love, Elvira. Leading roles include Salvatore Licitri as Ernani and Angela Meade as Elvira. Q Starts at 19:00. Tickets 95kn.

Eric Sardinas

February - March 2012



Culture & Events 22.03 Thursday

01.12 2011 Thursday - 30.09 2012 Sunday

Cinestar Branimir Centre, Branimirova 29; Cinestar Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, www.blitz-cinestar. hr. Kenneth MacMillan has put together a fine cast of dancers to match the serenity of the music. This tragic tale is filled with intimacy and the heightened tension of two families and in particular two lovers. Much effort has been put into staging and equally adorned by period costumes of the era.

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www. This exhibit marks the 20th anniversary since the war in Croatia. Visitors can get a true insight into the war with army suits, symbols, flags, maps, weapons, photos, testimonies, documentaries, multimedia projections and much more never seen before items. It will have you browsing for hours on end. A chronology of the war is given and it ends by paying homage to those who died for independence.

Romeo and Juliet at The Royal Opera House London

The Homeland War

12.12 2011 Monday - 26.02 2012 Tuesday

Exhibitions 17.11 2011 Thursday - 18.03 2012 Sunday

Acquisitions of the Meštrović Atelier 1991 - 2011

B/C-1, Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums, Mletačka 8. Sculptor extraordinaire, Ivan Meštrović, created hundreds of works throughout his career and this exhibit marks 20 years since the establishment of a foundation in his honour. In that time, new acquisitions have been collected from his opus and fourteen of these will be presented for the first time.

Mors porta vitae - Death, A door into Life

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz. hr. Epitaphs, headstones, rituals…. Now that we have your attention, this one of a kind exhibit looks at the funeral processions and cemeteries of Zagreb, centuries ago. A thorough analysis pertaining to death wills, graves, the blessing of the sick, obituaries and more will be shown either in original or via photos, films and press prints. A guided tour is offered every Wednesday at 13:00.

20.12 2011 Tuesday - 20.03 2012 Tuesday

Documenta Ophthalmologica…stories from the Eye Doctor’s Offices of the late 19th century D-3, Typhlology Museum, Draškovićeva 80/II, www. What gadgets did eye doctors in the 19th century use to prevent and cure eye illnesses. Feast your ‘eyes’ on this oftalmological collection of objects used at the Royal Eye Clininc in Zagreb dating back from 1923. Whilst there, get a free eye test to check that 20/20 vision by current student optometrists!

20.12 2011 Tuesday - 04.03 2012 Sunday

Šime Vulas - Retrospective

C-3, Modern gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, Sculpting is a labour of love for Šime Vulas who presents an astonishing 70 years of his opus to the wider public. This extraordinaire of carving, engraving and sanding will showcase over 150 of his precious works which include candles, sails, cities, rosettes, organs, portals, fortresses and boats reminiscing his coastal birthplace of Trogir. Dynamic and rhythmic in motion, these have been created in wood, marble, stone, bronze, aluminium, and other materials. A greater part of his range include the yet to be fully investigated sacral figures which include crosses, crucifixes and sacral drawings. Add to that his outdoor monuments placed in parks, squares and memorials, this exhibit truly exacerbates the richness of one man’s life calling.

29.12 2011 Thursday - 31.03 2012 Saturday

Islamic, Mogul and Bhutanese metal objects from the Mimara Museum collection B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5. Steering away from the main continent and moving towards East, seventeen preserved artefacts from vases, bowls and candle holders dating from the 7th to the 12th century will be on display. The true highlight of this Islamic Applied Art collection is two swords - the mogul khanda from the 17th century and the celebratory sword from Bhutan (18-19th century).

12.01 Thursday - 09.03 Friday

Photo Graz 010

Cabaret New Burlesque

Zagreb In Your Pocket

B-2, Austrian Cultural Forum, Gundulićeva 3, www. Photography fans have the opportunity of seeing the current photo scene of ‘Steiermark’ which will be presented through monitors and other usual analogue forms. See one of Austria’s states through the eyes of 99 female and 104 male artists, along with 19 collectives.

Culture & Events

Ana Šesto - Fantastic scrapbook, 03.02 - 03.03., Cinkuš Gallery

16.01 Monday - 29.02 Wednesday

15.03 Thursday - 13.05 Sunday

J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, w w Rasol is a contemporar y Croatian photographer who joins the ‘No fotografija’ list in a mutual collaboration between the museum and artists who have created their art works especially for the museum and at the museum’s photo laboratory. His latest cycle of photographs will be exhibited.

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. Degas was a famous Frenchman and one of the founders of impressionism, but too many critics his bronzed sculptures were his glorified work. The exhibit will display 74 sculptures of bathing ladies, horses, portraits and one torso. They reveal his talent in shaping body form and movement, as well as his trademark final touch on the surface of his works.

No Photograph - Jasenko Rasol

01.02 Wednesday - 29.02 Wednesday

Silence Where Things Abandon Themselves

J-4, NO gallery, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, How does one turn everyday objects into an artistic work? Not sure, then let an Italian contemporary art and performance group give you an unmatched outline into the topic. Performers include Giorgio Calo, Elisabetta Benassi, Rossela Biscotti and others.

28.02 Tuesday - 22.04 Sunday

Liturgical Clothing from the Museum of Arts and Crafts collection

B-3, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, The most valuable samples of liturgical clothing and items presenting textile motifs from continental Croatia will be displayed. The oldest embroideries date from the 13th century and of great value is the Renaissance chasuble decorated with golden needle work. The Baroque group of liturgical clothing is most presented (17th and 18th century).

15.03 Thursday

Bruketa & Žinić

E-3, Gallery Bačva, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, Take a look at one of the most award-winning advertising agencies in this part of Europe. Croatian made and owned, Davor Bruketa and Nikola Žinić front this company focusing on strategic planning, market communication, design, and more. One can only imagine what multimedia elements will be presented this coming March.

Edgar Degas - Dance Steps in Bronze

15.03 Thursday - 15.04 Sunday

Piano Collection by Ljubomir Gašparović

B-3, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, The then and now of pianos is right here where viewers can see pianos from the ‘golden age’ - built by Viennise builders (made before or around 1850) through to the end of the 20th century. The advancements in aesthetics and acoustics in piano design are clear as well as the intensive use and history of pianos in Croatia.

19.04 Thursday - 17.06 Sunday

L’amour du Risque - From the FRAC collection (French Regional Museum of Contemporary Art) J-5, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17,, Art is meant to be freedom of expression. But what happens when we give it limits? When we add rules? Artists from FRAC have decided to take a plunge, to steer away from mainstream art and detach themselves from the rules. They have produced art works which put the expectations of the audience and art critics to the test. Has it paid off? See for yourselves.

Lost the beat? ZagrebDox festival

February - March 2012



Culture & Events 26.02 Sunday - 04.03 Sunday

ZagrebDox festival

C-1, Movieplex, Kaptol Centre, Nova Ves 17, www. Submit a film, or choose to watch from over 150 renowned and dare we say, not so known films. There is the acclaimed international and regional competition as well as a tribute to Jay Rosenblatt.

09.03 Friday

Salsa Filarmonica - Zagreb Philharmonics and Ricardo Luque & Friends

Special events

Heart and Art, Gjuro 2

11.01 Wednesday - 21.03 Wednesday

Film ab: Deutschland

I-3, Goethe-Institut Kroatien, Ulica Grada Vukovara 64, Foreign film enthusiasts can partake in this cycle of contemporary German films which will be screened fortnightly on Wednesdays. The Goethe-Institut Kroatien is home to this event, the tape starts rolling at 18:00 sharp and films will be shown in the original language with subtitles. Free entry.

24.02 Friday - 25.03 Sunday


J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, Contemporary artists listen in as for the fifth year running the Museum of Contemporary Art and T-HT (Croatian Telecom) are organizing a course competition with a focus on multimedia productions using picture and sound - it entails video, experimental film, internet art, robotic and electronic art. A foreign jury will select the best works to be presented.

26.02 Sunday


I-3, Dražen Petrović Sports Centre, Savska cesta 30. A true musical spectacle as these outstanding drummers from Japan, travel the world and perform on their traditional Japanese Wadaiko drums. Their sound is said to have such meaning that it promotes their idea that the rhythm of the drums is the rhythm of our own hearts and our lives.

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski (Small Concert Hall), Trg Stjepana Radića 4, Lovers of every thing and anything Latino are in for a special evening with Cuba’s Jackeline Castellanos and the legendary ‘Soner’ Felix Baloy (member of the Buena Vista Social Club) performing. Rudy Vistel will conduct and our very own Ricardo Luque will conclude the evening with his ‘salsa’ music and vocals. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 140 - 200kn.

15.03 Thursday - 05.04 Thursday

Zgraf 11

Croatian Association of Artists, Trg žrtava fašizma bb; Arts and Craf ts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10; ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14; Permanenta Gallery, Preradovićeva 44/1, If graphic design and visual communication is your forte, then stroll on down to the ULUPUH Gallery where this triennial event presents both global and local examples of design! Its guests evaluate topical issues within the field, address technological advances and the position of design in contemporary society. Its divine, its design!

19.03 Monday - 25.03 Sunday

RAF The Review of Amateur Film

B-4, &TD Teatar (Student’s Centre), Savska 25, www. A staggering 500 independent short, experimental and feature films from all over the world will be presented and the intention is not to accept or reject, but to ‘present’ all film entries! It covers all genres and includes workshops, exhibitions, concerts and promotions. A true paradise for non-commercial film buffs!

21.03 Wednesday

Norbert Gstrein

C-2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Nikole Tesla 7. Wonder writer Norbert Gstrein’s novels have been translated into more than a dozen languages, some of his recent works have included Croatian themes for which he has received awards; ‘The Craft of Killing’ and ‘Winters in the South’ are an interplay of real life events topped with creativity and imagination that often reveal the heartbreaking truth.

Ghosts, 15.02, Zagreb City Museum

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Culture & Events

31.03 Saturday

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

Cabaret New Burlesque

B-4, SC Cinema, Savska 25, Cabaret originated in Paris but this groovaciously hip rendition has put an American spiel on it that has caused a positive stir in the US. Europe is about to taste the ‘New Burlesque’ which combines glamour, elegance, poetry, humour, ludicrousness, and sincere beauty, packed into one.

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@, Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. U


Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70,, A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15,, Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U

February - March 2012



Culture & Events of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - September 30 Open 09:00 22:30. Admission 20kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg


Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije

Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21,, www.brokenships. com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@, Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Small galleries Canvas Gallery (Galerija Canvas) E-2, Tomašićeva

8, tel. (+385-1) 462 13 50,, www. Studio and gallery of graphic art.They hold three exhibitions a month, so it’s worth looking in regularly. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Događanja K-4, Ivanićgradska 41a, tel. (+385-1) 230 31 22,, QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10,, QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Galerija Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+3851) 615 96 68,, Q Admission free.

G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96,, An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 492 23 68. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission free. Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61,, w w QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00/ (+385-) 099 217 77 00,, www. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun on request. Admission free.

Mijo Kovačić Gallery (Mijo Kovačić Galerija)

C-1, Basaričekova 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 38, www. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Yamato, photo by Dinko Bažulić

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Lost the beat?

Culture & Events

Mirko Virius (Mirko Virius) C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30,, Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of brightcoloured paintings. Q Open Mon - Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu - Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 74 11/(+385-1) 302 42 47,, QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46,, QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+3851) 459 36 02,, www.galerija.sczg. hr. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Bužančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec, tel.

(+385-1) 614 01 89,, Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Contemporary ceramics 06.02 - 22.02, Vladimir Filakovac Gallery

Vladimir Filakovac Gallery (Galerija Vladimir

Filakovac) L-2, Dubrava 51a, tel. (+385-1) 205 00 63,, Free entry. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+3851) 377 08 96,, QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija@morh. hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. February - March 2012



Carnival time What’s eaten... In the Hrvatsko zagorje region people still eat prisiljeno zelje (forced cabbage), which is stirred with garlic and pasta sheets. Also popular is dry pork neck, the so-called lalovka. As for cakes, the self-raising cakes are on the menu as well as the obligatory kraflini (doughnut). In Zagreb, cabbage is also eaten, as well as polenta, beef, roast turkey or goose, and for dessert donuts. In Samobor, the famous Samobor kremšnite are served, not to mention garlic sausages with mustard and sweet bermet as a beverage. Slavonians enjoy meat leftovers in sausages, čvarci (dried pork fat) and as for the sweet desserts- strudels, švargle, donuts, masnica with walnuts or poppy seed and Greaves pie. From the Kastav and Ćićarija area come the sweet specialty presnac which is made of dough, old bread, milk, eggs, raisins and cinnamon. The other popular dessert are kroštule with almonds, fanjki, šurlice made of sweet dough, fig-cake made with walnuts and a bit of rakija, and presnac made of fresh sheep cheese and maroon cake. In Gorski kotar, povatica is made from self-raising dough with cheese, apple or walnut filling. Fritule and kroštule are a popular dessert in Split. The obligatory crème-caramel is home in Dubrovnik.

The flair, the glare, the excitement and the dazzling costumes are just some of the elements we consider to be a part of any carnival. Well, behold, dear readers, as your traditional carnival in Croatia includes not only these glittering essentials but also something different, something spooky, something quite hair-raising, in fact. You may be scared right now but let us tell you that this is a great time to be in Croatia, as you can join the locals in scattering evil ghosts and releasing a year’s worth of frustrations all under the cover of fancy dress. This is, indeed, taken to be the norm, a ritual intended to cleanse your soul before the warm season of spring arrives. You see, carnival season is connected with ancient traditions from these areas that go back to the Middle Ages. According to Slavic pagan customs, carnivals would begin closer to the beginning of the year when locals would parade the streets, marching and cheering, they’d attend masquerades, fancy dress balls, wear costumes and sing to drive away evil spirits. This would carry on all the way to Shrove Tuesday, the day before Lent - the time of fasting, a time of moving away from our wrong doings and preparing for Easter. Quite often the final day of celebrations finish with the ceremonial judgment of an imaginary character blamed for everything bad that has happened over the past year. In the Zagreb region this individual is styled on a prince and is named the fašnik, though his moniker is different in other parts of the country. But wherever you go, he is the one who represents all our problems, troubles and miseries, who takes the blame and is then symbolically burned in a blazing bonfire. A little harsh, you say? Not in the least! Nowadays, carnivals around the country intertwine the customs of old with the fun and glamour of the present day. Everyone is welcome as the carnivals include all generations, with some wholehearted devotees preparing for the show all year round. You’ll see the evidence of this in the magnificent

Zagreb In Your Pocket

costumes that are worn, some traditional and others so wacky that they would make fashion designers dance with glee. Most of the carnivals take place at weekends and consist of a plethora of activities ranging from masquerade balls, carnival parades, exhibitions, tours, sporting events, dandy rituals and other celebrations. Needless to say, the amount of food and drink consumed at such events is astonishing, but at least you get to taste an array of gastronomic delights. Every region has its own customs, so wherever you happen to be, why not join in the fun, embrace the spirit of carnival and experience it in a unique way. Let’s get an insight into what’s happening and where...

Rituals and tradition Carnivals bring with them rituals and traditions. For instance, people with fleas had to eat blooded sausage with sour cabbage at midday on carnival day if they wanted to get rid of them. It was also advised to drink beer on carnival day – for long life! Hmmm, now that explains the merriment about!

carnival time In and around Zagreb

10 January – 22 February Fertility Rituals at the Samobor Carnival See the long lost rituals that were tradition in the 1870s and are rarely seen today. They began on the Saturday before Shrove Tuesday and included numerous marriage rituals and myths, the feeding of polenta, the slaughtering of black hens and marking blood on house corners, the sprinkling of vineyards with ash and much more; each with its own custom and reason. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, 18 – 19 February Living Pictures Reinvigorate the past! Relive some tales of Old Zagreb during the last weekend before Lent at this costume party held at the Zagreb City Museum. Don’t be surprised when you come across some famous characters from the city’s earlier period who will tell you their own stories. Zagreb City Museum C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, 27 January – 28 February Carnival – The King of Europe 2 This exhibition is part of a larger project and is held in conjunction with other National Museums. It looks at winter fertility masks in a European ethnographic context. The goal of the project is to investigate the common roots of the European carnival. Once again there is a link to ancient rituals and tradition. Additional artefacts and photographs have been adjusted to the space inside the Ethnographic Museum. Etnographic Museum D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+3851) 482 62 20, The idyllic little town of Samobor is just a few kilometers away from Zagreb and has one of Croatia’s most popular and longest-running carnivals. Festivities begin on 11 February and run through to 21 February. Good old Prince Fašnik is blamed for all the misfortunes in the region and is of course punished by being burnt in a bonfire. It’s witty and political as there is a judge and lawyer who defend the Prince by satirising current affairs in a highly humorous way. There will be food and mulled wine on the square, competitions, fancy dress parades, a costume ball - and lots of wild behaviour! Samoborček buses leave from the Zagreb Bus Station,

Črnomerec and Ljubljanica every 20 minutes, departures begin in the early morning from 05:00 through to 22:00 or 23:55. There are no night bus lines, however come Friday and Saturday evening, the buses ride all the way to Podsused where you can catch ZET night city transport. A one way ticket will set you back between 22 and 25 kuna. For further information, visit the Samobor Tourist Office at Trg kralja Tomislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 336 00 44, Zagreb’s little neighbouring town of Velika Gorica is celebrating its 103rd anniversary and the town is set to transform into a Carnival paradise. The weekend of the 18 – 19 February has a jolly list of events on the agenda. Grand Carnival Day on Saturday sees the grown ups’ parade starting at 14:00 and the judging of costumes, winding up with live concerts with local bands performing in the Carnival marquee in the Dr. Franjo Tuđman park in the evening. The Little Carnival is on Sunday, and is dedicated to the wee ones, who take part in a cute costumed parade. There will be acrobats, clowns, jugglers and magicians on hand to entertain. ZET buses (line 268) ride from the main bus station every 10 to 15 minutes, whilst night lines ride every hour. A one way ticket costs 20 kuna with the driver or 16 kuna if you purchase it at a kiosk.

February - March 2012



carnival time In and around Rijeka

By far the biggest and most popular carnival of all in Croatia! In fact, according to the Sunday Times Newspaper, the Rijeka Carnival is one of the most exotic of these world events that happen at the beginning of each year. This sea-side city has a chill in the air at this time of year, but the carnival traditions that date back to the Middle Ages certainly hot things up. The Rijeka Carnival has become an international event with over ten thousand participants and more than a hundred floats and carts from dozens of different countries. By the time you read this the fun will have started on 20 January with the handing over of the city keys to carnival authorities. But the best is yet to come as proceedings continue till 19 February. The Children’s Carnival parade has the cutie-pie factor, while the International Parade is nothing short of spectacular with over one hundred thousand people attending. The traditional costumes from the local area are spectacular, so do head down to the coast and indulge in the chance to enjoy a cup of coffee in the winter sun. Don’t let distance deter you from coming as the trip from Zagreb now takes under two hours by car thanks to the new full Zagreb-Rijeka motorway; buses take 2-3 hours and trains rather longer. See the official carnival homepage for further details. Other carnival events around Rijeka: 8 January - 21 February Krčki karneval, Krk town, Krk island; 17 January – 22 February Pust va Kastve 2012, Kastav; 17 January – 22 February Lovran carnival, Lovran; 5 February International Children’s Carnival Corso, Opatija; 12 February Balinjerada, a unique event held with decorated vehicles on so-called ‘balinjera’ wheels, Opatija. Our islanders are also no slackers when it comes to knowing how to party, so whilst you’re in Rijeka why not hop down to the island of Pag for their carnival. This takes place on the six weekends leading up to Lent. There’s a masquerade ball every Saturday until events culminate on the weekend of the 18 – 22 February. Witness traditional dances, in particular the Paško kolo folk dance, see the famous folk costumes and

Doughnuts The queen of the carnival table, succulent and hot, fried in a deep oil are krafne or doughnuts; and the pride of each hostess ascends as the dough rises and the beauty of the golden ring encircles them. Some of the ladies would sprinkle lemon or orange zest, vanilla extract or rum, and their centre was filled with delicious homemade jam or dark chocolate. The sweet desserts in northern Croatia are made of similar dough and are called fanjki or poderane gaće, whilst in Southern Croatia kroštule or fritule are popular. Today we also get uštipak (fritters) and its variants are constantly being improved.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

join in on the masked parade for that element of surprise. It’s held outdoors on the main Petar Krešimir IV Square, and you can also dig into the great hot food and homemade delicacies on offer. Simply jump onto the Jadrolinija ferry from Prizna or the catamaran from Rijeka. A little closer to home, the town of Crikvenica is just a halfhour drive heading south from Rijeka. Here, the locals lay on seven weekends of fun with events taking place every Saturday until 22 February. There’ll be a big marquee on the Petak car park next to the bus station, where you’ll be able to catch performances by stars from the Croatian light entertainment scene. Apart from that, events will include two carnival parades (one featuring local groups and their guests and another for children). Check out for a complete programme of events for Crikvenica and the surrounding area. To get there, take a local bus from Rijeka or one of five daily lines from Zagreb. The trip by bus from Zagreb takes 3-4 hours (stopping service), while by car you’ll be there in two hours. Not too distant from Rijeka is Senj, a little town huddled on the coast under the Velebit Mountains, on the way to Zadar. It’s famous for pirates, strong winds and fiery people. History has it that masked balls were held in the town as far back as 1658 - that must explain why their carnival is so wild and such great fun. Expect themed masked balls every Saturday at the Magnus discotheque and a children’s dance on Sundays from 7 January – 22 February. Senj isn’t so well known as a tourist destination, and that’s why you’ll find it unspoilt and full of character. We recommend you try it out - it’s less than a two-hour drive from Zagreb. The notorious antics that happen at carnivals continue at the coastal town of Zadar, where kings were once crowned, and now carnival reigns from 18 - 19 February. The main events will be held between 11:00 and 13:00 in the center, around the main square and Kalelarga, the main street in the Old Town. On Sunday 19 February in the afternoon, carnival parades attract participants from neighbouring areas and the surrounding islands of Zadar County. On 21 February in the evening hours you can expect a lot of parties in the Varoš area of the Old Town.

carnival time

Further south and off the Dalmatian mainland is the island of Lastovo where you’ll see a carnival that pays particular respect to history. The carnival is named the Poklad and legend has it that it dates back to a time when the island was attacked by Catalan pirates. After praying to Saint George for deliverance, the islanders were saved, and they have commemorated the event ever since. Sounds victorious! Festivities begin on 17 January with a grand opening of the dance hall which will be the scene of a ball every Saturday. All are welcome, in fancy dress or regular attire. Events reach their peak on the fabulously named “Obese Sunday and Monday” - the days before Shrove Tuesday. Sunday is the date dedicated to fun for the children, and on Monday a dummy of the Poklad – a Catalan pirate is made. On Shrove Tuesday this unfortunate fellow is sent flying on a ripwire from a peak above the town, fireworks cracking at his heels. Humiliation indeed. You’ll witness locals in decorative traditional costume and have the chance to take part in an egg hunt. See www. for further details. If you’re travelling further south, there are carnival festivities in and around the medieval city of Dubrovnik: 11 – 21 February The Dubrovnik Masquerade Fiestas 2012 This Medieval City is the perfect setting for ‘masked parades’ and ‘masquerades’. Come and join in the carnival atmosphere, there are carnival art installations, a regatta, a Captain’s Ball, children’s dress up parades, opera, photo exhibits, the Albanian National Circus comes to town, workshops, ice-skating and more. So for fun, flair and a fiesta, Dubrovnik has much to offer. For something different, you might like to hop on over to the island of Korčula. In the town of Blato, a traditional set of dances called the munde are held, at which the gentlemen must request the indulgence of their fair partners in the old-fashioned manner. You’ll witness a host of other quaint customs and have the chance to taste your share of the island goodies which are also laid on. The munde are held in Lipa Hotel every Saturday and Sunday between 6 January and 21 February.You are also welcome to join in the following events:

a Children’s Masquerade Ball in the House of Culture (Dom kulture) on 28 January, and the Great Masquerade Ball also at the House of Culture on 18 February. Carnival time reaches its festive climax on Shrove Tuesday, 21 February, with the Great Carnival (Poklad) Parade through Blato. Heading east? The biggest Carnival event in eastern Croatia is called the Đakovački bušari. As the name suggests, it is held in the town of Đakovo, most famous for its magnificent red brick cathedral and for its folklore festival. This event was first held in 1994 after a long gap – it renews traditional festivities which were abandoned for many years. There are two main happenings. On Saturday 4 February the Winter Gastro Fest is held – an unforgettable chance to sample some of those luscious Slavonian delicacies. The main event takes place on Sunday 5 February, starting at 14:00 - a big fancy dress parade through the streets of this delightful little city. This parade attracts groups from all over the country and from neighbouring Hungary, hoping to steal the show with their themed costumes. We have this area covered as well with a relatively new carnival – KaOs in Osijek, 17 February – 21 February. And chaos will spread once the keys are put into the wrong hands and the merrymaking begins. You’ll find parties at the Oxygen club. The carnival attracts thousands of participants with the masked participants in full voice. The final party before Ash Wednesday will be at the Ante Starčević Square, with the traditional burning of the Prince of the Carnival – that poor fellow never has a rest.

Carnival in the Zagreb County 18 February Sveta Nedelja Carnival 19 February Dugo Selo Carnival 19 February Carnival in Jastrebarsko 21 February Children’s Carnival in Sveti Ivan Zelina 21 February Children’s Carnival in Zaprešić

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February - March 2012


The carnival season is finally upon us which gives us all a reason to celebrate. Food, music, masks, dance, and dare we say superstition are all a part of the festive atmosphere. Towns in the Zagreb County have had a long history of karneval, or as local folk used to say fašnik; which refers to the day before Ash Wednesday or Shrove Tuesday. On that day, the evildoer or fašnik, who is blamed for everything bad that has happenned during the previous year, is burned in effigy, drowned or hung. Not to worry, the fašnik is a dummy made of straw and old cloth, a ritual symbol that says good riddens to the past and welcomes a new beginning. The carnivals of each municipality vary according to custom and tradition. Some towns begin celebrations as early as the Epiphany whilst others only for a day. Either way, carnival Tuesday, the central day of all carnivals becomes the last day of fun and excitement, the grand finale before 40 days of fasting (Lent) begins. So impetuous feasts, rituals, enjoyment in food, drinks and parties under masks, are all themes of the day. Since the 17th century, the first thing that springs to mind during carnival season is the sweet smell of freshly made krafne, (donuts) fried in deep oil and filled with homemade jam or dark chocolate. People drink city wine, eat candy and dry figs. In the Zagreb County cabbage, palenta, beef, roast turkey and goose are traditional delicacies. In the picturesque valley of Samobor, traditional garlic sausages with muštarda (mustard) and the aperitif bermet are popular today, as well as their famous kremšnite (custard pie). During the carnival children and local groups dress up and parade their masks while the city streets and squares undergo a makeover, completely changing their appearance for the carnival season. The Velika Gorica Fašnik, celebrating 103rd anniversary, has a major procession that passes through the town which is a spectacle for young and old. The towns of: Dugo Selo, Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, Sveta Nedelja, Vrbovec and Zaprešić in association with their Tourist Boards have organized also a special children’s carnival parade. To see the carnival customs of old and dare we say the burning of Prince Fašnik contact the Zagreb County Tourist Board by phone: 487 36 65 (Mon-Fri 08.00-16.00) or visit Let the carnival festivities begin!

Did you know...?

Each town in the Zagreb County is acquainted with special Fašniks (carnival characters). Their origins arise from a mixture of township history, legend and myth. In Samobor, you’ll find the magpie sraka, which was the name of the Fašnik newsletter published way back in 1904 and continues through till this very day. Some of the colorful carnival characters that you might see parading in town streets include…? Ivanić Grad – IVANEČKI ŽAPCI (Ivanić Frogs) Jastrebarsko – ŠKANJEC (Buzzard), ŠOJKA (Jay) and BARJAKTAR RODA (Stork the Flag-bearer) Samobor – SRAKA (Magpie), PRINC (Prince), FIŠKAL (Pettifogger) and SUDEC (Judge) Sveti Ivan Zelina – KLOPOTEC (Blabbermouth) and ANKA MOŠTALKA (Anka the Stump-lady) Velika Gorica – ŽIR (Acorn), PAJCEK (Hog) and LUK (Onion)

A tale of carnival love…

In 1867, the aristocrat Đuro Ištvanić invited the immensely popular Croatian writer August Šenoa to the Carnival Ball in Velika Gorica. He was hoping to introduce him to his 3 unmarried daughters. News spread quickly across the Turopolje region causing quite a stir amongst the socalled single women of the town. Upon Šenoa’s entrance, Ištvanić was standing on the grand floor of the Carnival Ball along with his three daughters when the nonchalant Šenoa looked at the middle daughter and immediately said to his colleague ‘it is she and no other’. Low and behold, Slavica Ištvanić would later become his adorned wife.

Zagreb County Carnival Calendar

11-21 Feb Samobor Carnival 12 Feb Pensioners’ Carnival in Ivanić-Grad 12 Feb Vrbovec Carnival for adults 18 Feb Sveta Nedelja Carnival, Sveta Nedelja 18-19 Feb Children’s and Adult Carnival, Velika Gorica 19 Feb Dugo Selo Carnival 19 Feb Carnival in Jastrebarsko 21 Feb Children’s Carnival in Sv.Ivan Zelina 21 Feb Vrbovec Children’s Carnival parade 21 Feb Children’s Carnival in Zaprešić


Where to stay

Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-

Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06,, Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q 245 rooms (123 singles €135, 92 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Business Room €220). POTJHA6UFLGBKXW hhhh


H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@, This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is € 10. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €165 - 175, 12 Family Suites €210, 22 Deluxe Suites €275, 17 Executive Rooms €185). POTHARULBKW hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62,, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). PZOTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop 1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres., Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Pets welcome at 35€ daily. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €240 - 270, 29 suites €370 - 1500, 23 Executive Rooms €295). PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01,, zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 15€ daily. Q 378 rooms (337 doubles €240 - 270, 21 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00,

fax (+385-1) 669 59 02,, www. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €106 - 166, 142 doubles €115 - 180, 4 suites €200 - 480). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh BEST WESTERN Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08,, www.hotelastoria. hr. Th e refurbish ed BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request.

Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

Old-School charm Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57,, Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes’ walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (28 singles €109, 89 doubles €139, 3 suites €243, 3 Junior Suites €194). PTJHAR6LGBKSW hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info., www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson

Reserve a room at Zagreb In Your Pocket

Where to stay Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555). POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDSW hhhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03,, Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suites €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 03,, www. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €82, 29 doubles €107 - 116, 5 triples €145, 4 apartments €192). POTJHA6W hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09,, Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn). THABK hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Q26 rooms (8 singles €49, 12 doubles €63 - 77, 2 triples €84, 4 apartments €105 - 125). PTJ6ULNGKW hhh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets. Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triples €102, 1 apartments €82). PARILGW hhh Sliško J-3, Bunićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23,, www.hotel-slisko. com. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). Q45 rooms (2 singles €54, 37 doubles €73, 6 triples €91). PHAR6UILGBKW hhh



Where to stay Budget Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax

(+385-1) 483 35 73,, A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127). PJA6ILGBKXW hh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43,, Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

bb, Medvednica, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) 460 45 60,, This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €95, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01,, www.; Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84). PTHA6UFEGBKDCW hhh

Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01,, Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 10 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+3851) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@novagalerija. com, The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

Hostels Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, reception@buz zbackpacker, w w w. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-fromhome that draws local and international travelers alike. Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-toknow fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time. Thoughtful touches like a ″little things you need shop,″ cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while bee-ing only minutes away from the trams. Q 26 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person. PTA6GW Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/ (+385-) 099 483 08 82,, www. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can’t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhoodstyle courtyard where little touches like an original wood-beam ceiling recall the city’s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 16 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per person. PJGW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30,, Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostelaway-from-home. The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the upper-most floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless. Just don’t bounce before tagging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger) additional location opening soon. Q 32 dorm beds, 14 - 16€ per person. PA6GW Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 36,, www. Travelers’ Hobo spirits are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor. Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apartment available. Ages 18-40. Q 30 dorm beds, 20 - 27,5€ per person. P6NGW

Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAG

Croatian Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX Isabella Vinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73,, A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 110kn). PLNGB Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). PTAEGB Klub Maksimir K-1, Oboj 1, tel. (+385-1) 234 17 41, Small and perfectly formed best describes the restaurant itself and the food on your plate - Croatian ingredients reinvented a la nouvelle cuisine. Probably not your best bet if you’ve been starving on a desert island for a week, but the flavours are impeccable, as is the ambience. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (25 120kn). ALB Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45,, com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices. The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac.

200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn). PALGB Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36,, www. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05. You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 65kn). PAGB

Breakfast TavaKava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60

33. The red-roofed coffee cabin with its creative cup décor offers yet another way to enjoy the produce of Britanski Square farmers’ market. Ingredients travel a matter of meters to become hearty breakfasts like egg platters and pancakes or the latest lunch special, most of which are less than 30 kuna. Other favorites include milkshakes and a selection of local sausages. While weekends prove to be peak-time for the market, locals love this recent addition to the neighborhood any time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (14 - 110kn). B

February - March 2012



Restaurants Week of Restaurants 24.02 Friday - 04.03 Sunday w w From New York to London and to our humble Zagreb! Choose from over 100 restaurants to wine and dine at the mere price of 100kuna. Special 3 course menus will be served up with the odd aperitif or glass of wine on the house. What a bargain and great way to experience new cuisines.

Bistro Karlo B-2, Gundulićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 483

31 75,, www.bistrokarlo. com. This top-class temple of flavor worship trains all taste buds in the art of preserving and the pleasure of savoring nature’s finest flavors. Let the menu spark the imagination but ask your server to lead you toward their other innovative offerings made daily. Whether for lovingly prepared seafood specials or deserts to write home about, reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (95 135kn). PJAGW Hugo I-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 74 44, info@, Fans of the restaurant Marcellino will be cheered by the opening of a stylish and affordably priced cousin, with a selection of imaginative dishes priced between 60 and 100kn. We found the service equally attentive, and fell in love with the delicate baklava in lemon juice - a perfect dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). PAG


Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14

27/(+385-1) 481 13 41,, www. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

Konoba Burin J-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42.

An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 85kn). PAG


Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26,, Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 140kn). JAGB La Boca G-4, Vrisnička 18, tel. (+385-1) 383 27 00/ (+385-) 099 707 44 22, Simple furnishings melt against a vibrant mural of Argentinian tangoers - a striking first impression that proves to be the perfect prelude to the meal offerings. Although humble in their menu desciptions, platters of hand-made pasta and seafood dishes are stunningly presented, seasoned most especially with time and attention. Their wide variety of choices includes a children’s menu and tortilla dishes, ensuring something for every taste. Whatever your main selection, be sure to save room for dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (55 118kn). PAGB Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn). PAGB

Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically French-style bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 24:00. Closed Mon. (48 - 380kn). A

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAG

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Restaurants Japanese


Hanafuda H-3, Zagorska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80

Caramba B-2, Savska 30, tel. (+385-1) 484 85 70, A favourite for its exceptional Tex-Mex, locals are suddenly arriving in hoards that call to mind a cattle drive (only in this case it`s Croats, not cows). Could somebody tell the bastard parrot to shut his trap or give him some tequila so he’ll chill out, please? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24 - 68kn). PAG Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56,, The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PAEG

33,, www.hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playing cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights! Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen , Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). PAGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, hr, The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (40 - 180kn). PG

Hungry for more? Just click!

Mt. Medvednica Pilana Bliznec I-1, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 64 55.

On your way to mount Medvednica, surrounded with trees, flowers and a brook is the old saw-mill Bliznec. They really are the masters of their meat!!! The best “lungić u maramici” we’ve ever tried. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 105kn). ALGB Šestinski lagvić Šestinska cesta bb, tel. (+385-1) 467 44 17/(+385-1) 467 45 28, sestinski.lagvic@, w w w.sestinski-lag This folksy restaurant provides you with one of the best Zagreb overhead panoramas to be seen. It makes for a superb spot to sit down at before tooling through the trails that exist just short of the restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 130kn). PALGB

Vegetarian corner Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden ( or five Bio&Bio ( locations while on your adventures through the city. For a stop-over in organic paradise, we recommend a visit to Bio&Bio’s Ilica 70 location where their commitment to education in natural living comes to life with the near-by Nova restaurant (, Planetopija bookstore ( and Orgona massage center (

Vege Restaurants Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, Nova offers an exquisitely relaxing

ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions - definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). PAG Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+385-1) 487 22 44,, Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 09:00 - 17:00. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert. The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/(+385-) 091 349 07 02,, www.vegehop. hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn). AVGS Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75. Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 35Kn). PNG

February - March 2012




Pizza Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. (+385-1) 366 70

44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven. This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (42 - 60kn). PNGB Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385)099 302 07 77,, www. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 120kn). PAVGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn). PAVGBS

Serbian Opera K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 232 88 60, Take your tastebuds on a tour of regional specialities without even leaving town. Opera’s owner, and only server, creates a welcome-home atmosphere while guiding guests through menu selections served-up on hardy hand-made platters. Meat-lovers can feast on a selection of grilled specialities that simply dare you to try and save room for desert. Even lighter sides have a uniquely spicey twist perfectly tempered with Serbian beers and spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 140kn). PAGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

CAFéS Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61

24,, Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Cro Art Photo Club C-3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 76, Picture this: a photo gallery exhibiting a new collection every few weeks; walls filled with antique and modern cameras including museum-quality pieces; and black and white snap-shots displayed in casual arrangements under glass tabletops. Savor it all while sipping a coffee where local patrons may be donning film cameras or discussing their next artistic endeavor. Feeling inspired? The café-club hosts a sale of second-hand equipment every Saturday from 11:00 - 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Dvorište K-2, Maksimirska 31, tel. (+385-) 099 291 49 99. Conveniently close to Kvaternikov square, this cute little cafe is unique in its family friendly offering: a mini playground in its tucked-away interior terrance, inviting kids to romp sideby-side with parents enjoying the pleasant outdoor seating. For those less interested in swings and teeter-totters, the interior and sidewalk areas are cozy and inviting. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33. What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11, muzungu.coffeeshop@, Croatia’s first fair-trade coffee shop offers the authentic tastes, sounds and ambiance of Eastern Africa served up by locals whose hearts and helping hands span two continents. One-of-a-kind souveneirs like Masai bracelts become even more enchanting when included in a chat with the cool and inspiring staff. Sip an unbeatably priced ‘Good African Coffee’ and enjoy that it’s not only delicious but directly supporting the growers and their community. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout. Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59, The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.

Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 099 444

95 67,, Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection. Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events. With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. NBXW U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. EB

Art Side of Cafés NEW

Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva

13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66, w w A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. B Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PBW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55,, Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabbychic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-strokeflorist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. February - March 2012



Nightlife Alternative


Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43

Bar 45 C-1, Tkalčićeva 45, tel. (+385-) 091 577 33 89.

97, This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68,, This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53,, If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon, Tue 09:00 - 02:00, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front. Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PEB

This new kid on the block already has that old neighborhood favorite feel. Intimate enough to make new friends and roomie enough to get to know old friends better, the everything-good music selection enhances a stay-all-night atmosphere. Ask the bar-keep to introduce you to their headliner: a top-notch selection of mixed drinks and rakija. Groups welcome. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PBX Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72,, www. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13,, With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 04:00. PA Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Savska 14 A-4, Savska 14. This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 722 60 65, This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. Zagreb In Your Pocket

Nightlife Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, It’s not you - the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it? Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PALGX

Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31,, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each with a different sound. Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin. Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 098 31 73 69, A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B Gnijezdo J-2, Mesnička 36, tel. (+385-) 092 141 74 51, This little “nest” in upper town has people flocking from all over the city for drinks, dinner and dancing. The adorable décor adorns a bar, dance floor and crows’ nest spanning two floors of cozy spaces for groups of all sizes. Two menu specials are offered daily from 11:00 - 15:00 for around 30 kuna. Drop in later for hors d’oeuvres and stay for DJ or swing band nights. Q Open Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Groove Club C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-) 091 334 40 00,, Prepare all who enter: this VIP-room-like nightclub is an enticingly perfect party space and only steps from the main square. With lounge-style seating surrounding the main room, cocktail sippers and dance floor divas alike remain in the midst of the electric violet vibe. Your best funky but fresh attire gets you in the door but its the sleek décor awash in DJs beats that keeps you in, groovin’ the night away. Available for private parties. QOpen , Thu 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. PJA Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@, Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAB

Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138, An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can’t miss it. Don’t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere. Q Open , Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. L NEW

Melin C-1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 66, www. This small space with a big reputation transforms from cafe-by-day to club-by-night while keeping its groovy vibe on at all hours. Situated just off the oh-so-famous Tkalčićeva street, Melin’s massive terrace has many locals gravitating here in warm weather. The interior provides copious niches and nooks, inviting for drinks in-style any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. B Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen , Wed 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40,, www. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73,, Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB Pod starim krovovima C-1, Basaričekova 9, tel. (+3851) 342 48 51, Zagreb’s oldest pub, “under old rooftops,” serves up much more than drinks and live music in its intimate tavern setting. Whether dropping by for tango on Tuesdays, Jazz on Fridays and Saturdays, a hearty breakfast or a nip from their superb drinks collection; visitors are enchanted by the warm, rustic style, cured in two February - March 2012




centuries worth of local artists’ creative juices. Don’t be shy: the captivating staff is the heart of this ‘treasure of Croatian heritage.’ Highly recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 40kn). W NEW

VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club.

hr, This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30 kuna is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb’s best musical performances.QOpen Tue - Sat 20:00 - 05:00.

Lounge bars Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel. (+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@, Hemingway at its original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-) 098 193 12 81,, Part lively cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, part wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list includes some great Croatian wines, and most are served by the glass, so you can partake in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are served in this part too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PABX Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00. There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High Zagreb In Your Pocket

tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PENGB Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 982 84 28. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying. The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. NBX Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music, and in case you get the munchies, Hop Devil works alongside the eatery Mezzo & Mezzo next door, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A

Casino Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481

28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, casino.fortuna@lutrija. hr, Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

What to see Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This AustroHungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Dolac (Dolac Market)

C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo… and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski S q u a r e ( Tr g N i ko l e Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3,

Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. T h e c om bina ti on of t h e ou td oor ga zeb o, exp er tl y mani cure d la wn, fl owers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker

a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka

5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on December 26 at 12:15. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed V ir gin Mar y (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) C-1,

Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand ou t from nearl y any where you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

February - March 2012



What to see Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@, Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11,, This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55,, www.zvjezdarnica. hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00,, What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest

The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova)

B/C-3/4, . A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Croatian History Museum way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,, The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16,, Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the

What to see excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20,, High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. U Marton Museum (Muzej Marton) C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton. hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace. Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 -30kn.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 200 kuna per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@, Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Zagreb City Museum

February - March 2012



What to see The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Bela Csikos Sesia, Penelope 1903.,19.01 – 11.03, Art Pavilion

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@, All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn. The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda

3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11,, www. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20 th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imager y is undeniabl y fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha, w w This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@, This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)

C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Zagreb Mummy

The Museum of Street Art

C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Street Art is well and truly alive with the suburb of Dugave putting Croatia back on the art map. The beginning of September will see thir ty local and international artists bring their spray cans, brush es, masks, and oth er hidden treasures to reveal their expressive traits. The event will include 3D video mapping, nylon puppet sculptures and other imaginative tricks that will leave the audience spellbound. By September 15, Dugave will become the biggest street museum in Croatia. It is a great symposium for the revival of forgotten parts of the city, promoting trends in creating street art throughout the entire region as well as a platform for networking.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mail & Phones Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04,, QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, Located at the Main Bus Station. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00,, QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel.

(+385-1) 348 46 60,, www. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44,, QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73,, www. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 303 333,, QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+3851) 655 03 73,, hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05,, Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71,, In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h. CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+3851) 481 17 58, Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+3851) 481 99 93,, The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89,, There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

February - March 2012



Getting around Public transport


Buses tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01,, Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1.5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

ZET Value Cards The cheapest type of tram/bus ticket is the ZET Value Card; the initial purchase costs 50kn and it is yours to keep and recharge when necessary. With the initial purchase 20kn is debited towards the production of the card leaving you with a 30kn balance, enough for 4 rides which last one and a half hour in any direction. Upon entering a tram/bus, simply place the card onto the ticket device and it will display how long the ticket is valid for whilst deducting 7.5kuna from your balance. Once the card is empty, simply recharge it with an amount of your choice at any of the ZET ticket shops.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours. Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-) 060 77 77,, www. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Oryx taxi Ljudevita Posavskog 7a, Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 18 88,, www.oryx-taxi. hr. The starting price is 14kn with a 4.80kn charge per kilometre. Waiting per hour is 41kn and when it comes to your fury little friends, the transport of animals in a cage is 10kn. There is no additional charge for transporting people in a wheelchair. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77,, Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo , tel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33,, The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 07:00 - 22:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

Getting around Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-

1) 456 22 22, Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Airline offices Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33,, w w Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77,, Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00,, Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel. (+3851) 489 08 00,, www.airfrance. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 33, For flight information call tel. 667 65 55 if you are outside of Croatia and 062 50 05 05 for calls within Croatia. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01,, QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Lufthansa , tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa. com. Purchasing your ticket, made easier QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. A

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2)

Road help (HAK) tel. 987 HAK - 987 J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 44, tel. (+385-1)

661 19 99,, Call tel. 464 08 00 if you’re broken down on the road.

February - March 2012





Shopping centres & Malls


Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11,, QOpen

Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Daj koliko daš D-3, Pavla Hatza 7, tel. (+385-1) 558 48 70,, The name of this bookstore says it all, ‘Give us what you can’, and it has a whopping 8000 books of all genres at very affordable prices. So take your pick! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98,, hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna., Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Rožić antikviteti B-2/3, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 484 65 54/(+385-) 091 793 06 32, Antique furniture, jewellery, etc. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-

1) 659 10 50, off, w w w. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41,, Q December Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. January Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70,, QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03,, QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28,, QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Make friends? Just click! Zagreb In Your Pocket

Shopping Second Hand Heaven Dobar zvuk C-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1)

485 47 05. Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45’ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia’s largest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 5 kn. Free Bird A-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9 kuna. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kuna. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn. Rock Buvljak I-3, Bogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68. You can buy, sell, mingle and jingle in ‘rock’ style at the first ever rock market which will gather all fans of the genre who can buy or sell anything connected to rock music (films, comics, CDs, DVDs, T-shirts, jewellery, posters, musical instruments, books) plus live bands performing. The rock market will be held once a month (Saturday 10:00 - 20:00), free entry! The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn. Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line.

Art galleries BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/

(+385-) 098 178 04 02,, www. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44,, Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70,, Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35,, www. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54,, A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78,, The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A February - March 2012



Shopping Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1)

Art Shops


G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22,, If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18,, Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. As it is Christmas, the hours have been extended from 10:00 - 16:00. Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58,, A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16,, w w w. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AN Prostor Manufakturne Slobode C-2, Tkalčićeva 61. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate handcrafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

485 25 25/(+385-) 091 502 49 73,, Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Bonkulović Delicasies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic. com, Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Ekoteka Agra C-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. (+385-1) 888 55 34/(+385-) 091 890 78 23,, Traditional Croatian products grown and farmed organically. Purely eco! QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meatlovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@, Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja. com, A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76,, www. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pasargad C-4, Trg Ante Starčevića 7 (Importanne Centre), tel. (+385-1) 457 74 37. Offers Iranian products, teas, raisins, sweets, dry fruit and nuts. A true taste from the Middle East! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Delicatessen Apiteka C-2, Prolaz Sestara Baković 1, tel. (+3851) 487 27 55,, w w w. A large hodgepodge of honey products used for both medical and cooking purposes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Ashoo Zagreb In Your Pocket

interactive Easter Workshops K-4, Peščenica Cultural Centre,

Carting Carting Arena

I-5, Zagreb f a i r , Av e n i j a Dubrovnik 15, Pavilion 35, tel. (+385 -1) 549 44 80, reservation@kar, The countdown begins with the biggest indoor carting event in Croatia. World carting champion Paolo Gagliardini will ensure top speed entertainment with a 480 meter long race track. You too can join in with gear and carts provided. Pavilion 35 will be smokin.

Workshops Art Workshop for Children K-4, Peščenica Cultural Centre, Ivanićgradska 41a, The Peščenica Cultural Centre is all about fun! Workshops catered for children between 6 and 9 years old can work their creative imaginations. They will learn how to recycle daily materials, build and make models, paint, and collage. Held each Tuesday and Wednesday between 18:00 and 19:30. Cakes - Design and décor workshop J-5, Hospitaity - Tourism College, Kombolova 2a, www.latorteria. hr. Become a cake connoisseur and learn to bake, mix, decorate, cook royal icing and butter cream, make fondant and chocolate mould. Where else can you become a whisk whizz? Workshops are 2 days, with more information at info@ or call (+385-1) 560 67 25. Comics Workshop K-4, Peščenica Cultural Centre, Ivanićgradska 41a, February Children interested in expressing their creativity through comic books can partake! They will be introduced to the various phases of making a comic; framing, story-building, comic drawing and more. They will learn to tell a story through little pictures developing not only creativity, but communicational skills via this pop culture phenomenon. Computer Workshop: Piece of Cake I-3, PUO Zagreb, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-1) 600 30 00, Great for beginners wanting a solid hand on approach to basic computer skills! No experience necessary: minimal theory and maximum practical work are key. The basics of Microsoft and internet use are the highlights. Course: 24 school hours, 12 double hours. Conceptual Carnival Costumes D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, February (Tuesdays and Thursdays, 11:00 - 13:00) The key is ‘creativity’ where children can make traditional costumes and masks in their very own way. All the workshops will be connected to findings that surround the traditional carnival attire of the Žejanski zvončari and Sovinjski pusti from the city of Rijeka’s surroundings. Decoupage Technique - Furniture decorating K-4, Peščenica Cultural Centre, Ivanićgradska 41a, www. 10, 17, 27 February and 7 March Do you have wooden shelves, tables, chairs, hangers and other items that require some TLC (Tender Loving Care)? Then bring them to this workshop and learn how to give new life and spirit to old furniture. Workshops will be held on Fridays between 18:00 - 20:00 and 20:00 - 22:00.

Ivanićgradska 41a, 09 - 30 March So Easter is coming and you want to spruce up the kitchen table and egg baskets. Learn how at this special Easter decorations workshop where the spirit of the season will glee. Ethno Workshop on Traditional Needle Work K-4, Peščenica Cultural Centre, Ivanićgradska 41a, www. Croatian traditional needle work has been around for centuries, discover its history and be taken through step by step presentations of various needle techniques. You will be able to apply them to creating your own original clothing and household items, jewellery and decorations. Thursdays 18:00 - 20:00pm.

‘Small’ Theatre: The house of the puppet’s story

I-3, PUO Zagreb, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, Mums, dads, grandparents and kids, you are all welcome to this fabulous workshop that details the process of making puppets and props. There is also an insight into theatre looking at writers, puppeteers, scenographers, costumedesigners and more. Course: 24 school hours, 12 double hours. Soapmania C-3, Petra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 90, Create your own soaps - shape them, colour them, scent them! Workshops last for 2 hours and are priced at 130kuna. Thursdays 18:00 - 20:00. The Easter Dinner Table A-2, Makronova, Ilica 72/I, 27 March Add some razzamatazz to your vegan Easter meals and surprise your loved ones with stuffed plaited bread, colourful veggie eggs, cakes, chocolate rolls and more. The workshop is 230kuna with various discounts available upon completing the application.


February - March 2012



Lifestyle directory Dry cleaners & Laundries

Language Schools

Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-zg@, Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05,, QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Emergency health care

Veterinary clinics

Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+385-

1) 460 01 11,, Open 24hrs. Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs. General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

68, tel. (+385 -1) 604 01 86/(+385 -1) 604 01 87, info@, A clinic for small animals with pharmacy attached. QOpen 24hrs. Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385 -1) 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

92 93 94 9155

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story…. Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth country, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works

Zagreb In Your Pocket

in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00,, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia. British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00,, QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36,, www. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@, Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed. Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@, QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup , w w Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

Business directory

Learning foreign languages at Berlitz is a piece of cake Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ECOVIS UBLI D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20,, QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel.

(+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@, QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56,, QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65,, www. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10,, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Brokerage houses Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. (+385-1) 480 76 00,, QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hita vrijednosnice D-3, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 77 50,, QOpen 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterCapital vrijednosni papiri B-2, Massarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 58 90/(+385-1) 482 58 92, 482 58 94,, QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. PBZ D-3, Kralja Držislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 489 13 31,, Q Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Prva generacija I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 20, tel. (+3851) 461 20 55,, www. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76,, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80,, Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11,, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42,, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & translators Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17

36,, Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel.639 52 95. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. (+385-1) 309 59 15,, Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

February - March 2012



Business directory Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draško-

vićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@, w w w.zg.hgk. hr. Ser vices: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations wi th foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made. 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj). 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00,, Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 15% for a net income up to 3 600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3 600kn and 9 000kn, 35% for net income between 9 000kn and 25 200kn, 45% for a net income higer than 25 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is a Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into the regular company accounts.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44,, Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20,, Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Jones Lang LaSalle B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14,, A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-1) 457 21 05/(+385-1) 457 21 06,, Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52,, True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48,, www. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb In Your Pocket

Street register

29. X. 1918. Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak

C-1 D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

February - March 2012




Zagreb In Your Pocket No 64  

Zagreb City Travel Guide

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